Aesthetics Practitioners Journal
Journal
AESTHETICS
The official publication of the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network ISSN: 1836-9812
Volume 3. 2009
PRACTITIONERS
Volume 3. 2009
Uplifting results with MESO-LIFT Every aesthetician can deliver the maximum and exacting results with MESOSCIENCE by Skeyndor. The latest addition to the treatment range is Meso-Lift. This MESOSCIENCE protocol offers excellent treatment results and the benefits for a lucrative and healthy bottom line, while enabling you to continue with a high client retention rate. The Meso-Lift treatment procedure guarantees dramatic results in firmness, toning and lifting of slackened muscles on the face and neck and a boost in facial contour with its advanced, non-invasive technique. Employing state of the art technology and high-grade formulations Meso-Lift delivers active ingredients at a cellular level ensuring immediate visible results.
Bringing to reality the dreams of the past with ease through sophisticated and superior technologies. SKINLIGHT Multi-functional unit
SKINLIGHT is a state-of-the-art multi-functional unit that combines the most scientifically sound technologies in the convenience of one unit. It offers flexibility to streamline your procedures so that they incorporate the very best technologies without the disruption of moving equipment around. An advanced technology that will make raising the standards of your results a breeze through: ! Microdermabrasion – Different sized diamond-heads for different needs ! Lymphatic Drainage – Aiding in the removal of toxins ! Electroporation – opening cells for deeper product penetration ! LED – Cell rejuvenation and muscle toning ! Cryotherapy – Facial firming and lifting ! Skin Tester – Measure your results after treatments
IMPACT the most advanced technology for cellulite Incorporating advanced Ultrasound with Cavitation phenomenon and fortified with Electroporation IMPACT offers a real alternative to surgical liposuction and the most effective solution for addressing cellulite and improving body shape and tone. This device was designed to reduce the volume of localised adipose tissue quickly and effectively. Cosmetic gel formulations are introduced into the skin through the specific frequencies and the powerful synergy of these combined technologies that allow IMPACT to target problematic areas with great success.
And there was LIGHT with SORISA PHOTOCARE For dramatic results from the very first session, the Photocare LED (light emitted diode) therapy procedure targets and addresses wrinkles and expression lines (reducing their depth), improving hydration levels, uneven pigmentation, skin flaccidity and the symptoms of acne. Utilising different wavelengths of light delivered through a diversity of colours with varying properties PHOTOCARE can be used independently or in conjunction with other technologies for superior treatment result - a comfortable, nurturing and non-invasive treatment
Achieving Beautiful Skin has never been easier It’s all about results!
Vogue Image Group Ph: 1800 554 545 or 03 9821 0033 Fax: 03 9804 3866 Email: info@vogueimage.com.au
www.sorisa.com www.skeyndor.com
is now very much a consumer expectation and I have the figures to prove it. This is why we are making a strong commitment to continue to bring to you through APJ the latest information on where the industry is heading and areas you should continue to gain greater knowledge and qualifications in.
Editor’s Letter The shift in the economic predictions for improvement in 2010 has come as a welcoming message as we approach to enter another year. From the interaction we have had with the industry, many suppliers have identified ways to offer better support to the salons in exchange for loyalty and longevity in their relationship. There is nothing like pressure to bring out the best in us. It has been encouraging to see some strong partnerships being forged within the industry. In terms of consumers there seems to be a greater demand for proof of qualifications and evidence that new technologies actually deliver what they say. As I also write for a consumer publication in Sydney each day I receive emails from consumers who want further information on how to access the most credible technology as well as the most qualified practitioner to deliver the treatments. The need to step up our services and to provide evidence that we also have the credentials to deliver advanced technologies
In this issue of APJ you will find a substantial focus on anti-ageing topics and glimpses of new thing to come. You will detect a shift even in the way we diagnose the skin – we now can gain the results from skin gene testing. Read about this in the article Genomics – Skin Gene Testing. There is a brilliant article by Dr Alan Hadley on Stem Cells – What does the future hold for Skin Rejuvenation, Health and Wellness? and the wonderful solutions that this research will be able to bring to all our lives. Learn all about the value of sleep from a wonderful article from Henry Osiecki Sleep, Beauty and Orange Glasses. The Power of First Impressions addresses the all-important topic of personal presentation. Anti-ageing nutrition is now available for you to offer your clients. You can read all about it in Nutrients for Health and Vitality by Bill Anton. There are several excellent articles on business, science and technology, and don’t forget to test your knowledge at the end of the Aesthetics Bulletin pages. May this season be a profitable one as you come to the close of another year. Consider that you have taken care of so many others and made a difference in their life. Now it’s your turn to put something back into yourself. Do it, without guilt.
Typesetting & Graphics Mark Viney Advertising and Marketing Tina Viney Phone: 07 5593 0360 Kharis Enterprises Pty Ltd 8 Parkdale Court Robina Qld 4218 Fax: 07 5593 0367 Mobile: 0412 177 423 Email: info@kharis.com Publishers Aesthetics Practioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd Design, Production and Artwork Kharis Enterprises Pty Ltd 8 Parkdale Court Robina Q 4226 Phone: 07 5593 0360 Fax: 07 5593 0367 Mobile: 0412 177 423 Email: info@kharis.com Produced for Aesthetics Practioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd ACN 136 987 169 ABN 25 136 987 169 Print Post Approved. Circulation 5000 Accounts Payable APAN Pty Ltd PO Box 5448 Q Super Centre Qld 4218 Australia
Enjoy this issue.
Tina Viney Editor/CEO
Editor Tina Viney Phone (07) 5593 0360 Fax: (07) 5593 0367 Email: info@apanetwork.com Web: www.apanetwork.com
ISSN: 1836-9812
This publication is not associated in any way with the Association of Professional Aestheticians of Australia (APAA).
Journal Advisory Board Terry Everitt (Education) Wendy Neely (PR & Marketing) Dr Douglas Grose (Scientific) Caroline Nelson (Business)
The Aesthetics Practitioners Journal is the official publication of the Aesthetics Practioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd, a network organisation established to service the needs of the aesthetics industry in the area of professional development and business networking. The Aesthetics Practitioners Journal is published quarterly for the benefit of its members and subscribers and aims to inform and educate its members on better business practices and Cover: GOOD LOOKING BEAUTY industry advancements. All editorials and articles that are submitted for publishing remain the Tel: (02) 9894 8068 property of Aesthetics Practioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd. info@goodlookingbeauty.com.au Reproduction in part or in whole is not permitted without prior written www.goodlookingbeauty.com.au authorisation by the publishers. Every effort has been made to ensure that all scientific and technical information presented is as accurate as possible at NEW ZEALAND/AUCKLAND the time of publishing. However, members and readers are highly Toll Free Number 0800 7789 801 recommended to also seek external advice from their accountant, registered For information visit www.everyskin.com.au financial adviser or healthcare professional for their recommendations.
APJ 4
APAN, INDUSTRY REPORTS AND NEWS 6-7 CEO’s Report 11 APJ Subscription 28-30 Savvy Marketing to Build your Beauty Business 70-72 What happened at Table 48? 78-80 The Value of the Aesthetic Practitioner attending a Medical Conference 86-87 Business News in Brief 88-89 Fair Work Act 2009 90-91 Scientific News 94-97 Aesthetic Industry Bulletin 96-97 Business News in Brief
product performers
SCIENTIFIC RESEARCH/ANTI-AGEING/INGREDIENTS 26-27 38-40 48-50 64-66 74-75 76-77
Genomics – Skin Gene Testing Ageing and its Association to Allergic Reactions and Sensitivity Sleep, Beauty and Orange Sunglasses Nutrients for Health, Vitality and Longevity The Three Key Considerations in Skincare Stem Cells – What does the future hold for Skin Rejuvenation, Health and Wellness?
BUSINESS AND PERSONAL AND PROFESSIONAL DEVELOPMENT 8-11 12-13 14-15 16 18 22 24-25 34-35 42-45 68-69 92-93
The Power of First Impressions Celebrating Learning – APAN Seminars Why leading professionals are joining the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network A Company that’s taking a Strong Stand Getting your products featured in the media – An Editor’s View Preparing your Business for Recovery Do you have the Winner’s Gene? A woman who knows what’s best Introducing the” Ageless Body” How to Win the Corporate Client – Part III Bartering Basics
EDUCATION, TREATMENTS AND TECHNOLOGY 31 32-33 24 46-47 52-54 55 56-57 60-62
Advanced Skin Analysis So you’ve bought your equipment ... what now? Advanced Skin Analysis Ayurvedic solutions for Pigmentation, Acne & Scarring A new horizon in skin rejuvenation – Platelet Rich Plasma (PRP) Why introduce LED into your treatment menu? New Advances in Cosmetic Tattoo Techniques Microcurrent makes resurgence as a credible technology
PRODUCT RELEASES 82-85
Product Releases
APJ 5
ceo’s report To see is to know, to desire is to be able to, to dare is to have. Alfred De Mussett WHAT HAVE WE ACHIEVED?
CTI PRA TION
ORK
DV
TW
A
S
JOURNAL In July we launched the first issue of our publication the Aesthetics Practitioners Journal with incredible success and excellent industry support and feedback equally from suppliers as well as the aesthetics industry. We are now on our third issue and as from this issue we are introducing the emblem APJ for ease of reference. Our aim is to bring to you new and fresh information that is specific in technical areas as well as cover broader topics on wellness and anti-ageing so that you can set your course based on what direction the industry is heading.
S ER
STHETI AE C
Since the launch of the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network (APAN) in the middle of this year we have been able to achieve our goals.
E I S O RY N
Dear Colleagues and Friends As I reflect on this year’s events I can confidently say that they have totally transformed me. The challenges that I have had to face have made me a stronger, more positive and, definitely, more optimistic person. Life is good if you choose to always focus on solutions rather than camp around your problems. In my article Do you have the Winner’s Gene? I identify the winner’s mindset and the lessons that we can learn from it – I trust this article is an encouragement to you as well and that you gain some inspiration from it. For many, it has not been an easy year, so if you have survived you are doing well and the good news is that most economic indicators point to an improvement in 2010. Regardless of such predictions I encourage you to chart the path of your own destiny. Let your perseverance turn adversity into advancement. Don’t let economic indicators hold you back – they are only rough figures and statistics. You are not a statistic, you are a dynamic, creative human being that has the power to shape your own success, so resolve to enter the new year with great expectations and a clear, focused vision of what you want to achieve in 2010.
APJ 6
STRUCTURE One of APAN’s objectives as an organisation is to be known for its excellence in service and for quality innovations that will support the aesthetics industry in the area of standards and effective networking. To ensure that the initiatives and the information it presents to the industry are sound, contemporary and credible, APAN has appointed a National Advisory Council, consisting of some incredibly skilled individuals with a great deal of knowledge and experience in their various fields. This body is responsible for reviewing the organisation’s activities and putting forward recommendations to APAN’s Management Board for consideration. In October this year we conducted our first National Advisory Council Meeting in Sydney. The Council reviewed APAN’s Code of Ethics and several other projects and put forward strategic recommendations. The outcomes of these recommendations will be released as they become finalised. CODE OF ETHICS At this point we can report that APAN’s Code of Ethics will in itself be a standards document and will become part of our members’ salons Staff Induction Program to ensure that uniform standards of conduct are introduced for the integrity of that establishment. In early 2010 full MEMBERS BUSINESS KITS will be developed to assist businesses to operate with a credible set of foundational documents they can refer to for regulatory and compliance purposes. The intention is to assist businesses to gain a level of credibility through the supportive mechanisms that we will be introducing. SEMINAR PROGRAM As part of our incredible support we were able to launch in November our first APAN National Seminar Program on the timely topic of Equipment Integration for Incredible Results (see full report on pages 13-14). We recognise that for an industry to move forward it must stay in touch with progress and new developments. We also recognise that not everyone across Australia can attend a National Conference staged in one location. As such, we are committed to providing regional seminars in as many States as possible and we intend introducing several of these each year. A full seminar program will be launched in January and will be available on our website www.apanetwork.com. Our intention is to also introduce a National Conference at a later date as well as several other initiatives that will improve industry networking and education. We will announce these as soon as the plans are finalised. A5M CONFERENCE As we are encouraging the industry to broaden its scope of learning by also attending credible medical conferences, we negotiated SPECIAL APAN RATES for the 3rd Annual Australasian Anti-Ageing & Aesthetic Medicine Conference 2009 held on the 3rd October. This enabled aesthetics practitioners to avail themselves to the leading anti-ageing event in Australia at more costeffective rates.
MEMBERSHIP Due to the information presented to us by the National Advisory Council we have decided to change our membership categories. The new classifications will include: ! General Membership ! Executive Platinum Membership ! Student Membership People who only need to receive the journal and are able to chat on our website in the Members’ Only Networking Centre will be able to choose the Subscription Plus Category. You can gain further details on these options by checking out the Membership Application Form inserted in this journal. As APAN intends making a significant contribution to the industry it will be distributing the journal through our extensive database on a rotating basis to various sectors of the aesthetics and medical aesthetics industry. As such, if you wish to be assured you continue to receive the APJ Journal we strongly suggest that you either join the organisation as a member or at least subscribe to the publication, as we cannot guarantee that you will be receiving it next year.
Journal
AESTHETICS
PRACTITIONERS
The official publication of the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network ISSN: 1836-9812
SERVING THE INDUSTRY Feedback from the industry has confirmed that our level of service that we provide them with has been most welcome. They appreciate the opportunity to receive a full mentoring session where they can speak to an expert at length on issues that they require assistance with and credible recommendations. Belonging to an organisation such as the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network will ensure you can access valuable information and support in a timely manner, thus allowing you to move forward with greater confidence in your business and in the area you wish to pursue. I welcome you to join us and become part of our vibrant professional community (Further details on pages 14-15). ONE LAST THOUGHT As we come to the close of another year, if I can leave you with one thing it would be this. Surround yourself with quality people, as who you associate with has a strong impact on your attitude and approach to life. This year I have been blessed to gain the support and friendship of some incredible people who have stood by me ready at all times to assist in every possible way. They are a bunch of strong, inspirational people whom I have grown to love, admire and appreciate and they have made all the difference to my life. They are the silver lining under every cloud. I would encourage you all to invest in quality people and surround yourself with individuals of integrity and substance. Take time out to nurture friendships as they can be valuable sounding boards that can enrich your life and help you stay focused on your dreams and goals. My very best wishes for a Merry Christmas and may the New Year bring you every good wish in abundance.
Authoritative Confronting on industry issues important to you. The journal you can’t afford to be without.
Kind regards
SUBSCRIBE TODAY. Tina Viney Chief Executive Officer
Complete the enclosed Application Form APJ 7
professional image
APJ 8
In your business or professional capacity what are you selling to your clients? No doubt an array of services that will help improve your client’s appearance and the way they feel about themselves. But take a step back and consider the issue of appearance when it comes to you and your business. Experts tell us that in the first five seconds your image will influence the people you meet. Image is the cornerstone of visual credibility, personal presence and non-verbal communications. Likewise, branding is the ability to communicate a clear message through the way you package and present a product or a business. What is the difference – one is concrete (branding) the other is abstract, or multifaceted (personal presentation). Yet both have the potential to elevate your visibility and client trust, while if neglected, can actually destroy the potential buying power of your products and services. Another valuable statistic is that people are influenced 80% by what they see and 20% by what they hear. Essentially what this means is that even if your staff are knowledgeable and skilful in what they say, if they don’t also look the part they are giving mixed messages, which may contribute to a client’s hesitation to accept their recommendations. We live in a highly visual world. The power of image is scientifically proven. Image influences the esteem, prestige,
THE POWER OF A UNIFORM Uniforms have a specific purpose – they differentiate and help to quickly identify a professional. Think about a doctor, a policeman or a hotel concierge. A uniform can say many things, and for our industry it should non-verbally communicate the following: ! Professionalism ! Good hygiene ! Attention to detail ! Consistent high standards ! The expert
UPDATING YOUR IMAGE As with changes and progress that we are witnessing in our industry, likewise in recent times we have seen the humble and unimaginative uniform undergo a transformation. The new trends are now introducing quality fabrics, interesting details and an array of different colours. One company that has made it its mission to improve the image of a business through the message of their uniforms is Vorei Design. We spoke with Nella Faraone about the latest trends in salon design garments.
APJ 1. Tell us about your background and what prompted you to get involved in the manufacturing of uniforms? I have been in the Beauty Industry for over 18 years and Lisa Merendino my business partner has worked in the corporate
The Power of First Impressions authority and desirability that people assign to your organisation, product or service. First impressions are powerful. They do influence. The process of first impressions and indeed all impressions are in force often without your direct input. Paying attention to the message that your personal presentation is communicating is important, as it will ultimately influence the 'buying' decision in your business. A mediocre image can therefore potentially cost you money. You and your people are the face of your clinic or salon, part of the public package, and part of the public measure of perception. What impressions are you and your team sending to your prospective clients?
industry for 20 years. We therefore combined our skills and knowledge and commenced our own business. I felt that there was a need to update uniforms to reflect the evolving level of skills that therapists are now progressing towards.
APJ 2. From your research what are the new trends in uniforms? We have entered into an era where products and services can now be “customised” to meet with client expectations. This new approached has now spilt over to our services in offering our clients the option of customised and individualised professional garments that will reflect the changes introduced in a contemporary salon or clinic. Our extensive research has revealed that up until now most beauty salons have not ventured far from the traditional black or white. Although we have a large selection of black uniforms that we supply to the hairdressing trade, we also offer a more modern colour palette that is flattering and seasonal and provides diversity and individuality for the Aesthetic Industry. Colours now include soft grey, mocha, moss green, brown, cream – lovely pastel colours as well as the staple black. Our product development department is taking us to other parts of the world to explore new trends in textile and fabrics. We remain at the forefront of materials and design so that we can provide the very best for our clients and ultimately be recognised as the leaders and experts in our market.
First impressions are important and portraying a strong, clear and concise image adds immeasurable value to both staff confidence and client trust.
Employees and staff with high levels of personal presentation and professional behaviour are cost effective. They create pride in the company and boost staff morale. Consider the hard work you put into making sure you are offering your clients the very best in your treatments and services. You put credible policies and procedures in place that will offer excellent results. Now imagine that the staff members that will be delivering these services are not reflecting the same standards in the way they present themselves. They look ordinary, old and tired. How will this influence a client’s decision to respond to their recommendations?
APJ 9
APJ 4. Do you believe that uniforms can be customised with individual elements that differentiate them from others? We most certainly do and we look forward to working with our clients’ ideas to customise their individual needs. We encourage our clients to incorporate a look that reinforces their salon branding and image needs. Alternatively, if there is a particular style that our clients have in mind for their salon we work with them to produce that design. First impressions are important and portraying a strong, clear and concise image adds immeasurable value to both staff confidence and client trust. Our consideration for different shapes and sizes of the female form and our tailored detail combined with our fabric, which has stretch for comfort and ease, helps to streamline the garments to flow comfortably with the body’s natural shape. APJ 5. What is a realistic expectation of the life of the garments that you produce? Our garments are Australian made and that is a big advantage when you consider the different manufacturing standards in different countries. Also, care instructions are important to follow when you invest money into any purchase. The life expectation of a uniform that is being washed every other day of the year really depends on how the garment is handled. With our research and choices of fabric and the customer’s commitment to following correct care instructions it ensures that our garments will continue to perform and look fresh wash after wash. Their life can vary from one to two years. APJ 6. What monetary investment should a salon or clinic expect when upgrading or introducing their own uniform style for their salon? Monetary investment is a small price to pay when you consider how this investment can benefit a business. There is no price for investing in staff confidence and portraying a consistent professional image within a business environment. As to the monetary factor, if we were to break down the purchase of an average garment it would work out to approximately $2.07 a week (based on a 12-month lifespan). That is all the investment needed to keep your staff and salon looking professional and stylish, not to mention that it is also a tax deduction.
APJ 3. Can you access fabrics that offer excellent durability as well as luxury and quality finish? We have an excellent relationship with our fabric supplier and work closely with them in product development. Our number one priority is to offer fabrics that are comfortable, practical and durable with a luxurious finish. As we also supply the hairdressing trade we are constantly researching and testing new fabrics and are in the process of launching some unique exclusive design as we speak, which is very exciting.
APJ 10
APJ 7. How committed is Vorei to quality assurance and product development and what uniqueness do they bring businesses with their professional apparel? Vorei is committed to providing outstanding service and attention to details for the benefit of all our clients. Our commitment to quality shows in the garments we sell and our reputation for this. We believe that adopting a high image standard will increase salon profitability through client confidence and increase salon credibility. We already have new styles on the drawing board for release next year and are passionate about updating our collection to keep it exciting and up-to-date with evolving trends. We choose nothing but the best in trims and our hands-on approach to all aspects of the business and our close working relationship with our manufacturer ensure that our customers receive a topquality product delivered through our friendly customer service.
Why do Beauty Therapists need Professional Beauty insurance? Whether you have a chain of salons, a single treatment room, or you work as a mobile beauty therapist, professional beauty insurance is essential for your business. No matter which part of the beauty industry you work in, obtaining the right level of insurance is essential to the success of your business, protecting you against the day-to-day risks of the job such as accidents or human error. Beauty therapist insurance usually includes several different types of cover which protect your business in different ways: Professional Indemnity Malpractice Insurance for Beauty Therapists: This provides cover in situations where you or your staff give the wrong advice, recommendations or inappropriate treatment, and the client takes legal action against you. Public Liability Insurance for Beauty Therapists: This covers you against claims made against your business for death or injury to members of the public. It also covers damage to their property – for example, if you or a member of your staff spilt a product that damages a client’s clothing.
Additional Cover for Beauty Therapists: You can add on different covers according to your business needs, for example if you move your equipment in a mobile business you might need this equipment to be covered with a transit cover. Why use The Sparrow Group for your Beauty Insurance? ! The unique combination of working both in the beauty industry and the insurance industry gives us, the insurance provider a unique understanding of you and your business ! Boutique business that offers personalised service and an after hour service ! Tailor your insurance to your individual insurance needs so you get the level and type of cover that you require, with Lloyd’s of London, the world’s largest insurance provider. You work really hard for what you have – we want to work with you to help you protect it.
Business Insurance for Beauty Therapists: This covers you with your choice of all or any of the benefits of fire/perils, business interruption, burglary, money, glass, machinery breakdown, electronic equipment, employee theft or general property.
APJ 11
our australia-wide seminars lacking,” she concluded. Tina Canestrari also agreed, “I gained so much information that was outside of the scope of what I am currently doing, which is predominantly IPL and there was a great energy there with wonderful industry-to-industry networking going on. I was greatly inspired with the quality of education presented and believe there was great benefit achieved for all who attended. As an industry we need to more regularly attend such events”.
The feedback was very positive as the industry had the opportunity to gain valuable education, information and a glimpse of things to come. Furthermore, some great networks among the delegates were established that contributed to the success of these events. Under the skilful planning of Beulah Adler and Christine Comans WA staged a highly successful event on the 30th November in Perth with 26 in attendance. Guest speaker was non other than multiaward winner Gay Wardle and several technologies were presented with protocol recommendations on how to achieve the very best results. Hermine Campbell, from Hermine’s Body and Beauty Solutions, who was present, described the seminar as excellent and very educational. “I was so impressed with the standard of information presented and in particular that there was a great deal of noncommercial education about the advances in technology. Even though there were equipment companies also presenting it was refreshing to see a broad spectrum of equipment and techniques presented in a non-commercial manner and to observe and understand the new direction that the industry is heading,” Hermine stated. “I also greatly appreciated Gay presenting a scientific approach to the skin and skin analysis – a very much forgotten art in many salons that rush through this very important procedure. I will definitely be attending future APAN events as it was a worthwhile and a much needed service that the industry is
APJ 12
ORK
TW
STHETI AE C
Celebrating Learning
S ER
In Brisbane Paula Frewin from the Body Clinic and Metro-Dora Clifford from CSHE presented a seminar in Cleveland on numerous technologies, explaining their function as well as the best possible ways to raise CTI the level of treatment results. Both Paula and Metro PRA TION S shared of their extensive knowledge and received positive comments from all who attended. Irene MacDonald, manufacturer of MisMo Skincare products, was very impressed. “As a supplier it is A important for me to be able to attend an industry DV E I S O RY N sponsored event such as this where I can gain an understanding of where the industry in heading,” The month of November was Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Irene said. “I was also very impressed to see two competitive Network Month of Technology as seminars were conducted across companies prepared to work together side-by-side for the benefit of Australia in various States on the common topic of Equipment the industry. Well done to both APAN for staging such an event and Integration for Exceptional Results. to Paula and Metro for sharing of their knowledge”. In South Australia Jeannie Chapman presented a very informative and educational presentation on a variety of technologies to eager therapists. Comments included: It is great to have Adelaide included in an educational program that is staged by a National body as South Australia seems to always be the forgotten State. All who attended were delighted and indicated in their feedback forms that they would look forward to the next event. On the Gold Coast the event was held at the well-known antiageing clinic “Renew You” courtesy of Dr Dzung Price. After light refreshments and finger food Bonnie Sleep from Forever Young, who was the organiser of this event presented an in-depth presentation on Microcurrents, LED, Microdermabrasion and IPL and shared some incredible information on how these technologies support skin renewal as well as wellness issues in the body. The presentation also focused on how integration of technologies is now the new direction of the industry and how to gain the best results with such procedures as well as realistic expectations. The positive feedback was amazing and very encouraging to continue with these events. Denise Gilroy wrote “Thank you for a very interesting and wellpresented seminar this week. So much is happening in new developments in our industry. More therapists should avail
themselves to such quality education. I thoroughly enjoyed the professional standard of your introduction, Tina, and of course Bonnie’s incredible presentation.” In Sydney Mariza Nuttall from Good Looking Beauty and her staff greeted guests with wonderful fruit cocktails and finger food. Terry Everitt, who acted as MC for the evening, welcomed everyone and opened the event together with Mariza, whose passion inspired all who attended. At this event techniques and procedures were demonstrated for Microcurrent, LED and Microdermabrasion. The evening followed with discussions about changes to the industry and delegates were given the opportunity to put forward their thoughts and ask questions of the experts. Another highly successful evening. The dates for Victoria and Northern Territory have been diferred until February 2010. BEHIND THE SCENES Without a doubt the success of these events has to be attributed to the passion and dedication, as well as the valuable contribution and generosity of the State representatives who assisted in staging them. A big thanks to all the wonderful supporters who worked tirelessly behind the scenes, ensuring the organisation and success of the events. In summary these were: Western Australia – Christine Comans and Beulah Adler, as well as Gay Wardle for her incredible presentation. South Australia – A big thank you to Jeannie Chapman who flew over from Melbourne to conduct the seminar presentation. Many thanks also to Marie Beardsley for her assistance in promoting the event to local businesses. Brisbane – A big thank you to Paula Frewin and Metro-Dora Clifford for a wonderful presentation. Also thanks to Suzanne Sparrow for her support and assistance for this event.
Gold Coast – Bonnie Sleep and her staff and team for the wonderful spread they prepared for guests and the informative and educational presentation.
APAN will commit to growing these events and will be staging them on a regular basis throughout the year. We will remain true to our word to deliver quality educational and networking opportunities in as many States as possible and we will quickly respond to your needs, so please let us know how we can best assist you. All delegates will receive a folder with valuable information and a Statement of Attendance for their records. And don’t forget that as a member you will be entitled to generous discounts.
More importantly, let us not forget to thank all those who made time from their busy schedule to attend these events and benefit from these presentations.
We encourage you to support these events and to help create a dynamic industry professional environment where knowledge can be shared and great networking can be achieved.
WHAT YOU CAN EXPECT IN 2010 Currently we are reviewing all our feedback forms to determine areas of interest to ensure that our plans for 2010 meet with your expectations. The new Calender of Seminar Events will be presented in the next journal.
If you would like further information on membership or about these educational seminar events please contact the AESTHETICS PRACTITIONERS ADVISORY NETWORK on 07 5593 0360 or email: info@apanetwork.com or visit www.apanetwork.com
Sydney – Mariza Nuttall and her staff for a wonderful presentation in Sydney and of course thanks also to Terry Everitt for his invaluable contribution as the MC of the evening.
APJ 13
ORK
DV
TW
STHETI AE C
CTI PRA TION
S ER
A
S
E I S O RY N
Why leading professionals are joining the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network (APAN) Professionalism can be defined as much by how you conduct yourself as well as whom you choose to associate yourself with. With the rapid changes that are happening in our industry it is difficult to stay informed with everything that is going on. No doubt your product suppliers are a source of reputable information even though more than likely there is a commercial bias on the information they present to you. There are various platforms of knowledge and as a professional you need to discern what you can expect from each one. In fact, before you gauge the validity of the information you are about to receive you should first consider the source. As a professional, you must ensure that within the mix of your research there is a level of generic information that will allow you to gain objectivity on the subject matter. This is where joining a professional organisation such as APAN can offer not only industry support, but also that level of objectivity.
SUPPLIERS AND BUSINESS ADVISORS Whether you are a practitioner or a supplier you still need to develop new skills and expand your knowledge of the industry. In fact, there are several reasons why joining a professional organisation can benefit you both personally and professionally. Here are just some:
THE POWER OF NETWORKING As an organisation APAN takes the issue of networking seriously, bringing a new level of meaning to this word. One of its chief goals is to create platforms for a congregation of like-minded professionals that are immersed in the inner workings of the industry to gather and provide participants with access to a variety of opinions and ideas. Information will likely be exchanged that will present industry intelligence that will seldom be discussed in as much detail in newsletter, websites or magazines. As much as these are excellent tools they only offer part of the communication mechanism to help you gain the wealth of knowledge you will need to move forward. Another advantage of the group-meeting format is the possibility that you might link up with others who can be of value to you. This will allow you to both pick their collective brains, and perhaps set up some sort of a mutual referral system and the potential for both parties to expand their respective businesses. At the recent APAN Seminars this was clearly demonstrated as some incredible
APJ 14
networks were established between salons as well as suppliers and service providers who were able to establish profitable partnerships with business owners that they met. Do you have leadership skills and have something worthwhile to say? Joining an industry networking organisation such as APAN will allow you to possibly gain a platform to share with others. During our November Seminars in some of the States certain therapists were happy to share techniques and procedures that have allowed them to deliver excellent treatment results and they did not feel threatened to share them with other colleagues. Innovative people are always coming up with new ideas and once they perfect one procedure or strategy they look at moving to the next. As such, they are happy to share their successes with others. Gaining the opportunity to speak at such events is a wonderful experience and can help you gain the confidence to perhaps present at another function addressing consumers where you can ultimately build relationships with potential clients.
REFERRALS As consumer access to the APAN website increases so we are giving the opportunity for our Corporate Platinum Members to profile their businesses on our site. This will allow you to further familiarise consumers that visit the website with your name and your services.
GETTING THE MOST OUT OF APAN Simply being a card-carrying member of an organisation doesn't necessarily mean that you are a productive member. In order to develop your knowledge base, establish new friendships and broaden your scope of information, you will need to attend meetings whenever possible. In addition, you should mingle with as many members as possible. Introducing yourself to members will enable you to learn about new aspects of their business, or discuss what strategies have worked for them. As you interact and communicate with them you will get to identify who are the achievers. Pick up some of their passion and enthusiasm and if possible, some of their strategies and focus. This will also help you identify how you fit into the mix of businesses and possibly give you a better understanding of your competitive advantage.
JOINING THE RIGHT ORGANISATION At APAN, we recommend that all professionals should belong to a professional organisation. You can belong to several, and this is quite common among committed professionals as each organisation has its own focus and strengths. Before joining an organisation, you need to ask yourself what are you hoping to gain from that organisation. If it is advice and support, how easy is it to gain access to an expert who can give you quality advice and sound recommendations? If it is information exchange, how often do they conduct seminars, conferences and networking events? As a member, what discounts do they offer you for these events? If you are seeking a quality publication to access education, how often do you receive their publication and how would you rate the articles they feature? What benefits do they offer you as a member and how can they help you save money? These are just some of the questions you should be asking yourself to determine value for money. What other services do they provide that could benefit you? What strategies do they have in place to benefit you and do they deliver on these strategies? Is the organisation member-focused, using your membership dollar primarily to develop benefits for you the member?
WHAT IS OUR COMMITMENT TO YOU?
APAN takes the issue of networking seriously, bringing a new level of meaning to this word. One of its chief goals is to create platforms for a congregation of like-minded professionals that are immersed in the inner workings of the industry to gather and provide participants with access to a variety of opinions and ideas. Information will likely be exchanged that will present industry intelligence that will seldom be discussed in as much detail in newsletter, websites or magazines. WE BELIEVER THAT OUR MEMBERSHIP PROGRAM OFFERS THE INDUSTRY WHAT IT IS LOOKING FOR:
! ! ! ! ! ! ! !
Best Insurance and Services Immediate access to an expert Quality products Choices and options to suit your needs Clearly defined, generous member discounts like no other The best Code of Ethics in the industry Regular seminar programs A leading industry journal and much, much more
MEMBERSHIP CLASSIFICATIONS
APAN has a vision to provide the aesthetics industry with some of the best tools to achieve success in your profession and business. Its directors have over 40 years’ experience in the aesthetic industry and over 28 years in management and education. Additionally, the organisation has appointed an external APAN NATIONAL ADVISORY COUNCIL to offer credible and objective recommendations and direction to its agenda and strategic planning. These experts are of the highest calibre and are leaders in their fields. As a member, you are assured of the extensive benefits and excellence in service.
Due to industry consultation APAN has simplified its Membership Classifications. Please find your Membership Application Form as an insert in this journal. This form will provide you with further details on the new classifications and member benefits. The financial advice we have received is that there is greater benefit for members to renew at the end of the Financial Year rather than the Calendar Year, as they can immediately claim the fee on their tax return. As such APAN membership will be from financial year to financial year.
SOME OF THE BENEFITS OF MEMBERSHIP INCLUDE:
!
! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! !
!
Consultation – why get frustrated with business and professional concerns? Phone and speak to an industry expert who can guide you in the right direction. Mentoring – do you need a more in-depth mentoring session with an expert. Make a time for a personalised session. Insurance – through negotiations with the Sparrow Group we are confident you will receive the very best possible cover, the most personalised service at the very best price. Seminars – in 2010 we will be continuing our seminar programs in various States. The topics will be selected on the highest score we have received from your feedback forms. Conference – through our alliance with other organisation we will be negotiating Special Rates for APAN members so that you can gain access to quality education at a more economical fee. APJ – our journal will continue its commitment to a broad and diverse subject matter and cutting-edge educational topics unlike any other publication. Membership – one size does not fit all. You choose the level of membership that best suits your needs. Credit card facilities – why lose money through processing fees of credit cards. Our members’ rates are the best on the market. Phone and find out how we can save you thousands of dollars a year. Business Standards Documents Kit – as of February 2010 you will be able to purchase your own Business Standards Documents Kit that will allow you to put in place a staff induction program that will help you immediately elevate the standards within your business. Business packs and support marketing material – A series of business products will be available for purchase at special members’ prices as of February 2010.
JOIN NOW TO SAVE AND BE REWARDED
! !
If you join now we will waiver the Administration and Processing fee of $66. But you must join before 3rd February, 2010. Join now and receive a beautiful professional skincare Osaine Firming or Slimming pack, valued at $88, sponsored by rd Good Looking Beauty. Each member who joins by the 3 February will receive one of these beautiful packs. Join now and only pay pro-rata until 30th June, 2010.
IMPORTANT NOTICE If you have received a complimentary copy of our journal APJ and would like to continue receiving it we strongly recommend that you either join as a member or subscribe, as this will guarantee that you will continue to receive our journal in 2010. As APAN has an extensive database we will be rotating our distribution next year. Therefore, only members and subscribers will be guaranteed to continue to receive the publication. APAN would like to welcome you as a full financial member and we look forward to serving you in the best possible way and supporting you to achieve your goals. In 2010 we will be unveiling some new and very exciting programs, which we will inform you closer to the time. Please complete the attached Membership Form and return it to us for processing. Once we receive your form we will immediately notify our sponsor, Good Looking Beauty, to dispatch your beautiful gift. We look forward to hearing from you soon. If however you require further information on APAN please phone 07 5593 0360 or email info@apanetwork.com or visit www.apanetwork.com
APJ 15
information was presented in the presence of the whole group, other consumers also became interested in doing the same. Statistics further indicated that on-line purchasers tend to develop a habit of continuing repeat purchases over the Internet. This means that potentially the salon or clinic that this client was attending would be losing these sales on an on-going basis. As we identified that on-line cosmetic purchases was the number one threat to the salons and clinics we decided to establish an “industry only” policy that would safeguard the sales for the benefit of the salon or clinic. With indio all salons must sign an Agreement that they will not be selling these products over the Internet. We have also installed tracking software to ensure all salons comply. We believe are the only company to implement such a strategy. In this way each business can be assured that they can reap the rewards of their professional recommendations. APJ 2. What else can go wrong if a cosmeceutical is sold without a proper skin analysis, and can you give us some examples? Scott: When a product is a clinical-strength cosmeceutical it needs to be correctly prescribed after a thorough skin analysis that has determined the exact needs of the skin. These are not pampering products (even though they feel great) – they are formulated for results. Cosmeceuticals are a cross between a cosmetic and a pharmaceutical and require different handling. It is therefore inappropriate to dispense blindly such high-strength actives via the Internet that may be applied on the wrong skin type or condition with adverse affects. APJ 3. Have you conducted any research to support your results in terms of current consumer trends and how they can impact a clinic or salon business? Scott: Recently, A Current Affair aired a program that revealed the enormous trend for consumers to shop through the Internet. This may suit some industries, but it undermines our professionalism if this also applies to cosmeceuticals. Additionally, from a business point of view if you consider that a client may purchase say four basic indio products – a cleanser, toner, exfoliant/scrub and a moisturiser this is a sale of approximately $233. If 400 clients just purchased these once in 12 months and you lost this sale to the Internet this would amount to a loss to your business of $93,200. If 200 clients purchased these products once only in a 12-month period you would be losing $46,600. T h e s e a r e substantial losses to your business, and this is only a starting point. Consider also that if the client came to you to purchase their products you would have the opportunity to recommend something further, or even promote a service that they may not have considered. When a purchase that you should be making is lost, this not only can be ongoing, but it can also be a distraction for the client to return to you.
A Company that’s taking a STRONG STAND in protecting salon revenue As professionals we consider it our responsibility to carefully select the brands and products that we use within our clinics and salons, and we take special care to research and screen the quality and integrity of the products we select to use and recommend. There is, however, another issue for consideration. How accessible is the product you use and promote to your client through other means such as the Internet? As much as this matter may be considered predominantly as a “commercial issue” rather than one of credibility, it warrants a closer examination in terms of its consequences to a salon’s potential revenue. One person who holds a strong position about this issue is Scott Michaelson, Founder of indio Cosmeceutical. In this interview he shares with us his reasons why he stands by his position. APJ 1. Indio has a strong policy of guaranteeing that its cosmeceutical products are not sold direct to the public over the Internet, which is often a common practice with other companies. What led you to this position? Scott: When we decided to launch indio Cosmeceuticals we looked at how our brand could fit and best serve the needs of clinics, salons and spas as well as medical aesthetic clinics and dermatologists. We also wanted to create a real difference, not only to treatment results, but also to business returns. To achieve this we commissioned an independent company to research and identify consumer-spending habits through focus groups. The people who took part in these focus groups were all consumers who were currently receiving services from salons and clinics. The result of this report confirmed that 20 per cent of the women were purchasing their skincare on-line because they were often able to get them a much cheaper. As this
APJ 16
We also need to learn from credible examples. Salons such as multi-award winners Skinology (Queensland) and Nectar Day Spa (NSW) are highly committed to “industry only” brands that protect their investment and not only offer excellent results, but guard against eroding their retail sales. APJ 4. What new consumer spending habits should salons need to consider and how else do you support salons to retain their clients? Scott: Another major competitor for product sales is the large department stores who are offering flashy and lucrative gifts with purchase. In tough economic times consumers are looking at ways of getting better value for their dollar. If a clinic or salon wishes to compete they need to provide comparable attractive offers as the consumers have come to expect these and look out for them. We have identified this and so indio offers better than dollar-for-dollar value with their products. Each month, salons receive between 5-30 full-size retail products FREE. This is so that they can offer gift with purchase and to assist them to compete at the same level with department stores. Consumers appreciate your expertise, but they have also come to expect the all-important “value for money” and this demand will continue well into 2010. Salons need to identify these consumer-spending trends and be prepared to meet with their expectations. As a company indio cosmeceuticals intends to stand by the industry through our “industry only” sales policy and our generous contribution of FREE products, not just for Christmas, but on a month-to-month basis on an on-going basis. We believe we are an Australian first in this regard and we are truly making a difference to the growth of businesses. If you would like to speak to Scott Michaelson about any of the above issues or would like further information on indio Skincare please phone 02 9669 6858.
APAN MEMBERSHIP
CTI PRA TION
ORK
DV
TW
A
S
S ER
STHETI AE C
Helping you grow TODAY - Connecting you to the FUTURE
E I S O RY N
GAIN THE SUPPORT YOU NEED THROUGH: ! Mentoring ! Networking strategies ! Regular Seminars ! Quarterly Journal ! Discounted Services ! Insurance ! Merchant banking ! Business innovative tools ! Professional Development programs ! Books and Merchandising products As a member, APAN offers you a new level of personalised service to help you more quickly achieve your goals and reach your full potential.
Join today & Win! Join by 3 February 2010 and receive a professional OSAINE Firming or Sliming Skincare Pack valued at $88 (Courtesy of Good Looking Beauty)
AESTHETICS PRACTITIONERS ADVISORY NETWORK Phone 07 5593 0360 Fax: 07 5593 0367 Email: info@apanetwork.com Download an application from www.apanetwork.com PO Box 5448 Q Super Centre Queensland 4218
“Developing dynamic alliances for the Aesthetics Industry”
publicity Getting your products featured in the media – AN EDITOR’S VIEW by Wendy Neely Juliette Winter, Beauty Editor for Australian Country Style and freelance journalist sat down with me to discuss the role a PR plays in her dayto-day activities. She shares with us her insight and long-time experience on the other side of the beauty business, the beauty pages. A highly respected writer and journalist, Juliette has been working in the media for the past 15 years, specialising in beauty and health, across a range of women's magazines like Cleo, Australian Good Taste and Country Style, beauty websites and custom titles. APJ 1: From your perspective, Juliette, what is the advantage of engaging a PR agency? JW: When a brand decides to engage a PR agency, they are giving themselves a better chance of being heard and seen by beauty editors and the media in general. If an editor does not know your product exists, it’s impossible to get editorial. The beauty resources website Beauty Directory lists 642 beauty brands and 22,894 beauty products currently available in Australia, and this isn’t all of them! So from an editor’s perspective there are an enormous amount of products out there and never enough time to search out all of them. Thank goodness for PR people! APJ 2: How can a pr agency make your role more streamlined? JW: By delivering relevant, informative and current product information, PR agencies help to keep us in touch with what beauty brands have coming up, as well as trends in the market. It’s a beauty editor’s job to sort through products to find the ones most relevant and interesting to our readers, and a good PR agency knows what we need, when we need it and how to present it to us in the most efficient way. This process can save beauty editors huge amounts of time, and opens up opportunities to meet and interview the beauty experts behind the brands. APJ 3: Do you deal directly with companies or owners in relation to PR? If so how successful or not is this? JW: I work with PR agencies, companies that have their own PR departments and business owners. All of these can work for a brand, but in my experience owners don’t tend to understand how the media works, aren’t able to respond to queries quickly enough and generally don’t have enough time to successfully be doing their PR as well as running a business. APJ 4: What are the key steps in gaining on-going exposure within a publication? JW: The easiest way to get exposure for a brand is to send relevant products and information to editors. If an editor tries and likes your product, you’re in with a good chance! APJ 18
Editors are always on the lookout for new products, so make sure your new product is with the media three months before it hits the shelves. If you want to ensure editors try your products, you can host treatments sessions. It’s the perfect way to get editors to spend up to an hour with your brand. By consistently sending products to editors you’re creating brand awareness and giving your product an opportunity to be placed. APJ 5: As a beauty editor and freelance journalist, what would you say are the big time wasters for you? JW: Time wasters for me include receiving product too late for their on-counter launch dates, or after my deadlines, which can be frustrating because the company has gone to the trouble of sending a product, but I can’t use it. If I receive a product with an informative release I'm ready to write my pages. But receiving things like sachets or sample bottles, which are useless because I cannot shoot them, or receiving press releases or information without products means I then have to contact the PR for the product in order to write about it. Finally, basic information missing from press releases like rrp’s, stockist numbers, the on-counter date or key ingredients. I often write outside of business hours, and if I don’t have all the information, I cannot write about the product, which means it will not be included and the opportunity is lost. Wendy Neely is the Managing Director of NonStopPR. She has over 20 years’ experience as a Public Relations professional and specialises in the beauty industry. She has excellent connection with over 30 magazine editors, newspapers and journalists. NonStopPR is based in Sydney. If you would like to know more about PR, call and talk to Wendy on ( 02) 9684 6729 or 0438 911 017, alternatively email nonstoppr@optusnet.com.au
Do you want to learn the Dixon Technique in Cosmetic Tattooing? The Slope™ Technique is a love story between a hand tool slanted needle and a rotary machine. The Dixon Slope™ needle is angled perfectly so that it can be used just like a makeup brush with a 32º slant. The colour goes in and stays in. If you are interested in learning the Dixon Technique, you can now do so on the Gold Coast in Australia.
WHAT IS THE DIXON TECHNIQUE? The Dixon Technique is a revolutionary new method founded by President of the American Academy of Micropigmentation Dr. Linda Dixon, which allows Cosmetic Tattoo Professionals to: ! Put more colour into the skin faster, while reducing discomfort and pain ! Put colour into the skin at the same level producing a consistent and smooth blanket of colour ! Works on curved surfaces better than standard techniques The Slope™ Technique offers you freedom to do cosmetic Tattoo makeup a better way. Now you can use one specially designed sloped needle for lining, shading, graduated hair strokes, pointillism, marking, as a single needle and “power tapping” as a hand tool.
DIXON TECHNIQUE WORKSHOP Invest in your professional development with confidence. For your Newsletter and information on upcoming Workshop Bookings on the Dixon Technique within Australia contact: Lyn Quade — Principal AUSTRALIAN INSTITUTE OF INTRADERMAL MICROPIGMENTATION MEDICAL & COSMETIC TATTOO
Dr. Craig Layt’s Clinic (Plastic Surgeon) Suite 1, AHC House 14 Carrara Street Benowa Q
TESTIMONIALS FROM OUR BOOT CAMP TRAINING: “I attended Linda Dixon Technique with Lyn Quade on 10th October 2009. I found the whole day very enjoyable and very informative. I will definitely be using the Dixon Technique in my salon as I can see how much more effective and easy the technique is. There is much less trauma to the area that has been worked on than when performed with the old method. It was great to be with a group of girls that are also experienced so we could discuss any areas of concern and any ideas that we can learn from each other. Lyn was very friendly and approachable and passed on the information very professionally”. Sue Marcon, Frangipani Beauty and Rejuvenation Spa, Ballina “The new Dixon Technique has more than exceeded my expectations, its gentle approach is something I did not know existed. Looking forward to doing more 3D areolas and hopefully learning more on the eyebrow technique. Lyn was great, a pleasure to watch work.” Sabina Murvat, The Lotus Institute Cosmetic Plastic and Laser Surgery, Gold Coast “I found the training day with Lyn Quade extremely informative and an excellent new technique with the Dixon method. I will certainly be introducing it to my salon. Many Thanks Lyn. ” Mellita Gardiner, Lismore “Thank you very much ,Lyn, I did learn a lot and the training was very informative. The pack is excellent and I love the DVDs
APJ 20
For further enquiries phone 07 5597 4100 or 0466 111 488 Email info@permanentmakeupaustralia.com.au www.dixontechnique.com
and all the information you have provided was great. Thank you again Lyn”. Deborah Chinnery, Ballina “I have enjoyed the entire boot camp. It was great to be a part of it and I have learnt a lot of different strokes and techniques. As a beginner, I consider myself to be very, very lucky to have been trained by Lyn and the Dixon Technique and networking with all of the others today. I cannot describe how blessed I feel to have learnt this incredible technique. Thank you so very much for everything. It has been a pleasure to see Dr Dixon speak.” Charlene McTavish, Dr Bada Cosmetic Clinic and Day Spa, Perth
For your placements and booking for the next The Dixon Technique boot camp Phone Lyn Quade direct 0466 111 488 Email: info@permanentmakeupaustralia.com.au www.dixontechnique.com
take a look inside...
CC-0161-DermaQuest_Advert_PB_v1.indd 1
25/11/09 3:45:32 PM
business
Preparing Your Business For Recovery If you are seeking for financial relief or sound business strategies to help your business grow, then this article from the Government aims at offering some advice and recommendations. business.gov.au is an Australian Government initiative that offers numerous business support through this website. This article aims at drawing your attention to some of the resources that may be of use to you on this website. These articles are sent by the Australian Government to APJ regularly with permission to publish them for the benefit of our members and readers. It is fair to say that times have been about as tough as they get for Australian businesses. But take heart, general consensus is that the worst may be over. So now is one of the best times ever to take advantage of improving conditions. The government website www.business.gov.au is a tremendous place to start as it provides up-to-date information and advice for businesses affected by the global financial crisis.
WHAT YOU CAN DO Surviving the economic downturn has taught businesses one thing – look closely at your bottom line to increase your profitability. There are several ways you can improve your financial situation, including seeking professional advice, however, there are also a number of small, low-cost changes that you can make to your business that will make an immediate impact. Here are areas you should examine: 1. Evaluate your expenditure Start by examining your day-to-day costs such as rent, telephones, electricity and transport, and make any necessary cuts. You may consider utilising cheaper methods of communication such as videoconferencing instead of attending meetings in person. Look at ways you can reduce the amount of energy and waste levels your business uses. This will save you money and help the environment by reducing greenhouse-gas emissions. And now could be the time to talk to your bank manager or other financier about refinancing or ramping up your business loan, while interest rates are low. You can check out the Business Loan Finder on business.gov.au as this can help you find and compare business loan options. 2. Revisit your business and marketing plans The continued success of your business is determined by effective planning. By updating your business and marketing plans you can increase awareness of your business and generate more revenue. You could include new business prospects and new services or discounts and look at ways to promote your business for free. For hints and tips on writing business or marketing plans, see business.gov.au for business planning tools.
APJ 22
3. Utilise online opportunities Using the Internet to communicate and do business can help you reach a much wider market both locally and overseas, as well as saving you time and money. Taking advantage of new and less expensive technologies during tighter financial times is just good business. You will find that business.gov.au provides a comprehensive list of the information and resources you can use to plan and run an online business. 4. Provide excellent customer service to everybody Marketing your business to gain new clients is crucial in obtaining growth, but it is also important to look after your regular clients. Chances are they are doing it tough too. Offer incentive schemes and value packages on certain products and services for repeat clients. Let your loyal clients know that their business is important to you. 5. Check out new Grant Finder Many businesses are seeking financial assistance from external sources to further develop their businesses in the current global financial crisis business.gov.au's Grant Finder helps you to find funding programs from the Federal, State and Territory governments, and from local councils. Visit business.gov.au for more information. 6. Stay informed about new Government assistance and initiatives business.gov.au has new information on Government assistance and funding for business that is regularly updated as new initiatives are announced. It includes information on tax breaks, support services and training schemes intended to help guide businesses through challenging financial times. Recent funding has been awarded to successful Business Enterprise Centres (BECs) to increase their capacity to provide business advisory services to small businesses affected by the current financial crisis. To find out what services are available for you from your local BEC or registered business organisation, visit business.gov.au. Keeping your business afloat during the economic downturn may be difficult. but there are things you can do and opportunities you can take advantage of. Visit business.gov.au for more up-to-date solutions to the global financial crisis.
This information is brought to you by business.gov.au – the Australian Government's principal, award-winning business information website. For information and resources on starting or growing your business, visit www.business.gov.au. It contains over 2,500 business information items, and truly has something for every business.
TAKE A LOOK INSIDE DERMAQUEST AND SEE WHERE REAL RESULTS ARE MADE.
Take a look inside DermaQuest and see where real results are made. DermaQuest is all about the CONCENTRATION of each individual product. DermaQuest believes in order for a product to perform at its intended function, the ingredients should be formulated at optimal clinical levels and at the highest percentage for maximum results. It is our mission at DermaQuest to always bring innovative products at the highest concentrations to the professional skincare market. If you want to distinguish yourself with a results-oriented skincare brand then your CONCENTRATION should be on DermaQuest Skin Therapy! www.dermaquest.com.au
CC-0161-DermaQuest_Advert_PB_v1.indd 2
25/11/09 3:45:38 PM
personal development training, then stares the challenge of his life in the eye and reaches down deep within himself to give his last ounce of effort to the battle, it touches something visceral in everyone who watches. Not only do we love to watch it, we hope that some of this spirit might be in us as well. For a split moment we want to believe that we are that athlete. In life we are often challenged to achieve and win. But merely winning doesn’t mean we have always achieved inner excellence, and losing doesn’t mean we have neglected it either. There is a score inside us, a measure of determination and heart and courage under pressure that matters more than the points on the board. Winning and losing apart from this inner score do not matter much. We enter a challenge to test ourselves. What makes these events meaningful and not just a pastime is that they pose a problem, a challenge to be overcome. I may think of myself as competing against other people or other businesses, yet in a sense I need my opponents because they push me to new levels of effort and excellence that I otherwise never would reach. The real contest is to always see if I can offer my best, to see if I can run and not give up in the face of great demand. The ancient Greeks (who invented the Olympic Games) understood the virtuous aspect of competition. They loved challenges and games and saw them as opportunities to test themselves, to develop that excellence of mind, body and spirit that they called arete or virtue. It was this mindset that would sustain them to overcome challenges in every area of life.
Do you have the Winner’s Gene? by Tina Viney If we could choose the way we want our life we would all go for one that is trouble-free, without stress and without competition. But, think a moment about your heroes? Think about watching an Olympic runner? They have committed themselves to a life of sacrifice, discipline and exerting themselves past the point of pain in order to break new records of speed and endurance. The day – the moment has arrived and as they prepare to face the race we gaze at them in wonder. We are there with them. Call it drive, heart, or the will to win – whatever you call it, we are deeply moved by the display of competitive greatness. When a competitor prepares his mind and body through rigorous
APJ 24
IT’S A MATTER OF PERCEPTION In business and in life I am always seeking to master a new discipline and to achieve this I must resolve to strive and find ways to make the learning process energising and life-giving. There is something about competition that touches this resolve in us, calling it forth. And this resolve is essential to human growth and greatness. Competitive greatness is a love for the battler, because it is in the struggle and the challenge that you
are offered the opportunity to be your best when your best is required. Just as an athlete builds muscle when pushing against resistance, so we can develop attributes that allow us to push through and overcome obstacles. During this economic downturn I believe all of us had to decide whether to swim or sink. For those of us who continued to swim, I am sure we have become better swimmers. What am I really saying here? Whatever life throws your way, there is always a positive answer. It’s like the saying “turn your lemons into lemonade”. The key ingredient to overcome the sourness is courage, a positive attitude and a willingness to look beyond the challenges to where you can be if you persevere. I believe that within all of us are both winner’s genes and quitter’s genes. Sometimes the winner’s gene is dominant and other times the quitter’s gene seems to take control. Don’t yield to it, keep it recessive, for even if it offers temporary relief it will ultimately lead you to failure. There is no doubt that business is not for the faint-hearted, and speaking to many of you as you phone me to discuss your concerns and challenges I have identified some real heroes. I have admired so many salon owners who have chosen persistence in the face of looming obstacles. These are not times to remain ineffective. As the challenge of competitiveness and difficult economic times have faced several businesses I have seen so many of you choose to invest in further studies, in reassessing your business’s direction and re-inventing yourself and your business. Some of you have “closed shop” and moved your businesses to your home.
On a personal and professional level I know I must apply myself to ensure that what we introduce is relevant and offers true solutions that the aesthetic industry is in high demand for, but more about that in my CEO’s report. Despite the challenges that I have had to face I have resolved to stay on track with our mission. I have learnt to thrive on discipline and to look at every challenge as a wrapped up opportunity for great growth.
Competitive greatness is a love for the battler, because it is in the struggle and the challenge that you are offered the opportunity to be your best when your best is required. Just as an athlete builds muscle when pushing against resistance so we can develop attributes that allow us to push through and overcome obstacles.
Survival can make us do some daring things. As I said above, it is about achieving inner excellence, where your life is dictated to by your inner convictions about what is right for your right now, and if that means relocating to minimise overheads then you have won, because you have preserved your survival.
WHAT LIES AHEAD From the beginning of establishing APAN I was convinced there was more that could be done to help the industry survive, and the more I talk to you the more I realise I am on the right track. Our vision is to develop standards and implement effective networking opportunities to support the industry’s sustainability and to create platforms for higher learning that will better equip you to face the future.
If you have changed your direction you would understand that true success requires vision, strategic planning and execution and these take time to develop. As accountant Joan Ryan said, “We are a nation that shouts at the microwave oven to hurry up”. Sometime the missing link to achieving our goals lies in the three “Ps” – persistence, patience and perseverance, and those I have plenty of. As we are about to welcome 2010, resolve within your heart that you will become the champion, the hero, the one who stuck it through until you reach your goals. Stir within you your winner’s gene to come to the forefront and energise you to become the very best you can be, not just for the benefit of others, but more importantly, for your own sense of worth, dignity and self-respect. For it is these qualities that will give you the confidence to run the race and win it, whatever that may be for you.
APJ 25
skin gene testing
Genomics – SKIN GENE TESTING Introducing A New Dimension In Skin Diagnosis
Never before has it been more important to be able to correctly assess a person’s skin type and condition than in the current age of cosmeceuticals and trans-dermal delivery systems. Furthermore, with the introduction of advanced technologies such as IPL, electroporation and ultrasound, a therapist has some stronger tools to introduce change in the deeper layers of the skin. Advanced skin analysis training is now considered as a staple part of upgrading one’s skills, especially for dermal and aesthetic therapists who are delivering higher levels of results. Knowledge on not only the layers of the skin, but also a greater understanding of the skin’s cellular structure, is now paramount for those who wish to push beyond standard results to more advanced treatment outcomes. Equipment such as Wood’s lamp and Reveal that allow you to gain insight into the skin’s underlying activity are necessary, but what about the genetic structure of the skin? SKIN GENE TESTING We are delighted to announce the launch of a new advanced skin assessment tool that is now also available to aesthetics therapists. Known as the VitaminChip Skin Gene Test, it analyses the expression levels of genes related to ageing of the skin. Specifically, it looks at genes that play a role in skin rejuvenation, moisture, whitening, pigmentation and inflammation. If these genes are abnormally up or down-regulated they may indicate skin ageing. The skin is one of the first organs in the body that deteriorates with the ageing process. Not only does the texture and elasticity of the skin start to change, but also moisture levels decline and a tendency to develop skin discolouration and pigmentation, as well as inflammation, becomes more prevalent. The VitaminChip Skin Gene Test analyses the expression levels (mRNA) of genes that specifically relate to the ageing of the skin. Genes that play a role in skin rejuvenation, moisture, whitening, pigmentation and inflammation are assessed. Any abnormalities found in the levels of these genes are detected and individualised therapy can be designed for more optimal skin function and health.
APJ 26
These tests offer an indirect measure of what is happening in the skin. For example, for inflammation they look for inflammatory markers. Genes can be assessed as being: ! Protective – as a favourable genetic makeup (this is the optimal level to have) ! Normal – which is good, but still susceptible to change ! Unfavourable genetic makeup – which indicates high risk and conditions that are more prone to abnormality TESTS RESULTS Tests can be requested at different levels. These can be: 1. Basic Skin Gene Test – determines six genes 2. Standard – determines the expression of 12 genes 3. Premium – which looks at the expression of 23 genes The tests determine both the genetic predisposition as well as the current pathological state. They offer a quantitative assessment of the current state of the genetic material. The beauty of these test results is that once deficiencies have been identified, within the report you receive will be included treatment recommendations for both topical applications and internal ingestion such as beneficial vitamins and nutrients that would assist that condition. HOW DO THESE TESTS DIFFER? The advantages of evaluating your client’s genetic expression is considerably more holistic than just determining skin observation. It is important to understand that the genes analysed, even though they affect the skin, are also involved in numerous other processes. For example, if inflammation is identified in a gene on the skin this could also imply that there is inflammation in other parts of the body. Thus the functions of these genes are not limited to just skin function. Therefore, by addressing the inflammation of these genes you are also benefit other areas of the body. Even though our genes have a genetic predisposition, other factors such as diet, lifestyle, environmental pollution and stress can effect and change their expression. By identifying an unfavourable genetic makeup you can implement a plan that can benefit the appearance of the skin and strengthen its constitution so that it does
not age as rapidly. Furthermore, you can potentially assist the health of the areas that that gene effects in other parts of the body, and therefore, in essence, offering real anti-ageing benefits. In greater detail, let us look at the four areas that the Skin Gene Test assesses. SKIN REJUVENATION With ageing, the epidermis of the skin becomes thinner, even though the numbers of cell layers remain unchanged. On the other hand, the numbers of pigment-containing cells (melanocytes) decrease, but the remaining melanocytes increase in size. Ageing skin thus appears thinner and more translucent. Age spots or liver spots may appear in sun-exposed areas. Changes in connective tissue also reduce the skin’s strength and elasticity. This is known as elastosis and is especially pronounced in sun-exposed areas. Below is an example of four different genes and how they relate to the skin: Skin Rejuvenation Genes tested by the Skin Gene Test GENE NAME MMP1 (Metalloproteinase 1) COL 1A1 ELN (Elastin) ELA2a (Elastase)
FUNCTION Cleavage of collagen Synthesis of collagen and pro-collagen Extracellular matrix constituent conferring organ elasticity and morphogenesis Peptidase activity
SKIN MOISTURE Ordinary dry skin usually isn’t serious, but it can be uncomfortable and unsightly and can turn plump cells into shrivelled ones, while creating fine lines and wrinkles. Fortunately, most dry skin results from environmental factors that can be wholly or partially controlled. In order for any moisture to actually improve a dry skin condition more than for a few minutes or a little longer, it needs to get below the second major layer of the skin. In reality, the only moisture that is going to reach this level in sufficient quantities to resolve a dry skin problem over the long term is the skin’s own natural moisture. Gene related to Skin Moisture Genes assessed by the Skin Gene Test GENE NAME Has3 AQP3 AAC3 (Acetyl CoA Carboxylase) FAS (Fatty Acid synthetase)
FUNCTION Synthesis of hyaluronic acid Synthesis of water channel protein Isoprenoid biosynthesis Cytokine-cytoine receptor interaction
SKIN PIGMENTATION AND WHITENING Melanin is a water-insoluble polymer of various compounds derived from the amino acid tyrosine. It is one of two pigments found in human skin and hair, and adds brown to skin colour. The other pigment is carotene, which contributes yellow colouring. The synthesis of melanin reactions is catalysed by the enzyme tyrosinase – an inherited lace of tyrosinase activity results in one form of albinism. Tyrosinase is found in only one specialised type of cell, the melanocyte, and in this cell melanin is found in membranebound bodies called melanosomes. Melanosomes can be transferred from their site of synthesis in the melanocytes to other cell types. The various hues and degrees of pigmentation found in the skin of human beings are directly related to the number, size, and distribution of melanosomes within the melanocytes and other cells. Besides, its role in pigmentation, melanin, which absorbs ultraviolet light, plans a protective role when skin is exposed to the damaging rays of the sun. Genes related to Skin Pigmentation assessed by the Skin Gene Test GENE NAME TYR TRP1
FUNCTION Synthesis of tyrosine related to UV protection Transport melanin (ER to Golgi vesicle-mediated transport)
Introducing SKIN GENE TESTTM Identify the genes that play a role in: ! Skin rejuvenation ! Skin moisture ! Pigmentation and whitening ! Inflammation Now you can determine the genetic expression of the skin for all these level with a very simple skin test. Skin Gene Testing will give you the tools to bring your treatments to the next level, while benefiting you client in a more holistic manner. Available in three different test levels Basic, Standard and Premium. For further details contact Age Diagnostic Laboratories
Ph: 1300 660 968. SKIN INFLAMMATION Normal skin maintains a balance of immune defence mechanisms. Immune enhancing or pro-inflammatory molecules include interleukin-1 (IL1a), IL-2, IL-4, IL-6, TNF-a, COX2, NFkB, interferon-g, etc. Immune-suppressing or anti-inflammatory molecules include IL-10. These pro and anti-inflammatory molecules usually maintain a fine-tuned balance. If the proinflammatory molecules dominate, the skin can develop a variety of auto-immune-based diseases or skin hypersensitivity, whereas, if anti-inflammatory molecules dominate, bacterial or fungal infections can easily develop. Genes related to Skin Inflammation assessed by the Skin Gene Test GENENAME IL6 (Interleukin-6) IL1B (Interleukin-1B) Bc12 (B-cell lymphoma protein 2)
FUNCTION Anti-Inflammatory
SPECIMEN COLLECTION The procedure for testing is very simple. Within the Skin Gene Test Kit you will find a special adhesive tape with instructions on how to apply the tape to the skin and remove it taking with it skin samples, which must then be returned to Age Diagnostic Laboratories for analysis. Once the skin samples undergo analysis the test results will be sent to the therapist together with recommendations as to how to treat the skin. Currently, this skin testing method is utilised by medical practitioners and dermatologists, with aesthetics therapists now also accessing this diagnostic tool to determine their client’s genetic expression so that a more thorough and specific treatment program can be identified.
APJ 27
salon business
Savvy Marketing to BUILD YOUR BEAUTY BUSINESS by Caroline Nelson
In the course of my daily work coaching salons and spas in Australia, New Zealand and beyond I find one of the most frequently asked questions is “When is the best time to market?” That’s a very easy question to answer. The best time to market is right now and on a continual basis. In fact, it should be a year-round process. Now I’m not advocating you spend advertising dollars every day, but I am saying that you must promote or market the business constantly.
on and high tech, particularly anti-ageing services and products - will generate the highest return. It is therefore essential that the successful salon will beef up facial services. So concentrate on developing that side of the business. And if you are looking to introduce new technology, services or products invest in this area. To gain a competitive edge and to have customers coming back again and again needs more than just great service. In today’s highly competitive marketplace many owners now realise that aggressive marketing is the blueprint for building a profitable business. And this can be achieved in a relatively low-cost way if you are prepared to put the time and effort into it.
Savvy marketing also means knowing what services or products are the best to spend your time and money promoting. From experience I have found that many business owners use their available marketing dollars unwisely, and this is often due to not fully understanding their service and product potential, and not being aware of which services and products return the highest profit.
CONTINUE TO EVOLVE
Look at all your services, the full cost to perform the service and the revenue potential. The same goes for retail items. You may even find that some services return very low profit margins. In fact, some may even need to be taken off the service menu. If they can’t be removed at least make sure you are not spending good money to promote them. The idea is to spend money only to promote what offers high returns and/or open up the way for further sales opportunities. This all depends on the client mix and the type of beauty business you operate. Having said that facial treatment – both hands-
Fortunately, in the beauty industry we have access to a substantial database of customers. Having said that, our customer base is very fluid, with people moving to new areas, changing jobs, or their priorities can change. So finding new business is always important, but then so too is keeping your existing customers. Where once we could rest on our laurels and offer the same menu time and time again, we now need to continually reinvent the services we offer as well as our marketing of these services. Look at this example, Madonna would have to be considered as one of the most successful personalities with a huge consumer
APJ 28
demand to her brand of music. At 50 years of age would she still be so popular if she didn’t continue to reinvent herself?
have your team promote to every single, potential customer.
Don’t forget to keep your product posters and merchandising One of the best ways a beauty business can achieve this is to fresh. If posters are getting tatty and stale ask your suppliers stay current on trends, to know what ‘pushes customer’s hot for new ones. Remember to take a leaf out of the department buttons’ and to regularly introduce new services to satisfy stores’ promotional book and keep your salon looking fresh their needs. Once this is done then comes the task of and energised. And I guess most important for both salon spreading the word. While there are all sorts of expensive owner and their teams is to realise that regardless as to ways to advertise and market – many that deliver little whether it is a traditional clinic or day spa your professional results, there are numerous low-cost ways that will achieve duty is to offer client’s skin care solutions. Therefore, every high returns. My advice is to introduce a regular promotional client coming into your business should know undoubtedly offer. And before I go any further I would like to say I do not the aesthetician utilises and offers not only the best treatment mean silly offers like $229 worth of treatment for $89. Today’s customer is As professionals offering a professional service we must not so silly as to believe position our special offers so that they are not only genuine, these are genuine offers.
but that they also service a need. This need should be a two-
As professionals offering way street offering value for the customer and a way to a professional service we must position our special increase salon revenue and build the business. offers so that they are not only genuine, but that they also service a need. This need should be a two-way street and skincare available, but also that their knowledge exceeds offering value for the customer and a way to increase salon by far the chemist and department-store assistants. revenue and build the business. For example, a special offer could be designed around a skin condition related to seasonal GETTING NEW CUSTOMERS THROUGH needs i.e. dehydration after the drying effects of winter. This THE DOOR would be beneficial to the customer in offering a fresher No matter what your location is, you need to attract new brighter, exfoliated and hydrated skin. But what are the customers to your door – but first you have to make sure they can find your door. Your signage should always be consistent benefits to the salon business? with your branding and the image you want to project. But do you have enough signage to direct them? This is important if WHAT IS YOUR SECOND AGENDA? This is where business building comes in. Every offer must your salon is in a shopping centre, particularly if you also have a second agenda – and it’s not just getting the booking have a competitor in the same centre. Now might be the time and performing the treatment. It must also include linking to negotiate more or better signage positions with the centre the treatment offer to one or two high-performance retail management. Visibility builds consumer awareness and products. While still prescribing the homecare basics, the addition of a couple of high-performance products will not only increase retail sales, but will enhance the on-going treatment results. These high-performance products must be displayed along with the treatment offer, and your team must be trained to present the benefits. In addition, during any promotional campaign targets must be set for: ! Treatment series selling (packages) ! Re-booking ! Up-selling ! Cross-selling ! Retailing Then aggressively market your promo on your website, via email or mail-outs, SMS, posters outside and inside the salon, with a Rewards Referral Program and APJ 29
individuals who respond, or a limited time offer – “Book now to receive this special offer”. The Internet allows you to focus your marketing message to people who are looking for your services and products and should be part of your marketing plan. But to make it work you need a great website designed to generate a high search engine ranking. Remember the key to web marketing is exposure. There are people going on-line looking for your services, so make sure they see your site, and then make sure the site highlights the difference of what you specialise in, or it utilises more creative ways you can service the potential customer’s needs, wants and desires over your competitors. And then there’s the use of social networking for your business like Facebook and Twitter, which is a very popular way to connect with younger potential customers. Another marketing strategy to get involved with is CauseRelated Marketing. Anita Roddick of Body Shop fame built a huge multinational business by relating her business to a cause dear to her heart – social and environmental change, which pulled on the heartstrings of consumers. She opened her first store in 1976 with only 15 natural-based skin care products, today the Body Shop has over 1,700 stores in 49 countries. All ingredients sourced for her products are cultivated and processed in a socially and environmentally responsible way.
branding is all about visibility. For example, if we see something all over town, we get the impression it must be good. The “key” here is – who knows you is more important than who you know. Be visible in your community, participate in local business clubs and associations and take part in community activities. As I said, visibility is important, and the more people who know you the more potential customers your business will attract. Think about creating partnerships with other businesses that complement yours. For example, wedding planners and celebrants, fashion boutiques, lingerie stores and even ladies gyms all service the same type of customer we do. Provided your businesses are not in direct competition you can support each other’s business development. So get together and plug website links on each other’s websites. You might even chip in to fund a combined bigger and better promotion. With the advent of E-marketing many salon owners have stopped direct mailing their customers to save on printing and postage. In my opinion direct mailing still has a place in every marketing program. However, I do believe it needs to be very targeted if it is to pay dividends. From my experience electronic media marketing to your younger customers also reaps excellent results, whereas the stay-at-home-mums and the more mature customers still respond well to direct mail. Direct marketing allows you to generate a specific response from a targeted group of customers. Make sure your direct mail stands out from the crowd by using a colourful envelope or if you are sending postcards have stunning images that invite people to read about your offer. And don’t forget to include a “Call to Action”, i.e. available to the first 20 APJ 30
Anita built her stores’ reputation not only on her dedication to her causes, but by inspiring The Body Shop’s staff to become active in local community environmental causes. The result is she garnered an enormous loyal customer base and raised the bar of employee commitment to customer and community service. Now you may not want to go multinational, but on a smaller scale there are many ways you can market in this fashion. And because this is a predominantly female business you are in, you may like to support for instance women’s or children’s health groups. However, whatever cause you choose, make sure it is dear to your and your team’s heart. I truly believe that with savvy marketing you can grow and build your business. It takes a little time and effort to get this right, but it could be the very key to business success. I hope this article has offered valuable information that you can apply to your business and helps to put more money in your bank account. Caroline Nelson is a beauty industry specific business coach specialising in helping salon and spa owners to operate super successful businesses. For details of her 2010 Australian & New Zealand Salon Profit-Rich Seminar Program designed for owners and managers wanting to improve team performance and increase profits please contact Caroline on 0410 600 440 or check the full program schedule dates and venues on www.nelsonbeautybusinessmanagement.com
Australian Educator offers Advanced Skin Analysis course Training in the internationally acclaimed Pastiche Method® of skin analysis will soon be available to all Australian beauty therapists and skin treatment practitioners following the acquisition of an exclusive Australian licence from International Dermal Science expert and skin guru Florence Barrett-Hill. Queensland industry icon Gay Wardle has been chosen as the Australian licensee/facilitator and will begin training the groundbreaking skin analysis method from early 2009. Gay, who is a well-respected, award-winning therapist and educator, has formed a new company, Education in Advanced Aesthetics, to facilitate the training. “We hope to be able to offer training across the country on a regular basis, and reach as many therapists who want to up-skill as possible,” said Gay. Originally trained in the Pastiche Method® of skin analysis five years ago, Gay has undertaken all of the postgraduate training offered by Pastiche over the past five years. With this advanced knowledge she fully understands the importance of getting the initial analysis of the skin correct, as this is the basis of any successful treatment program, and many skin conditions respond differently to treatments dependent on cause. “For the modern therapist and skin-treatment practitioner to be taken seriously and compete with the cosmetic medicine clinics, we have to offer more accurate and credible services. This means our diagnosis of conditions and consequent choice of appropriate solutions must be of greater accuracy and skill.”
Gay Wardle
The course Gay will be teaching will be The Pastiche Method® for the skintreatment professional (Level one) and is unique in the respect that the technically advanced protocol is non-product aligned. It was developed by internationally recognised dermal science expert Florence Barrett-Hill, and has been taught and practised internationally since 1994, with over 5000 graduates worldwide to date. In 2004, the core of the acclaimed course became a best-selling book; with thousands of therapists, aestheticians and skincare technicians in 16 countries and three languages taking their knowledge to the next level and spawning a new breed of skincare professionals. It is the core content of the book that will be presented in a three-day presentation consisting of theory and practical exercises. Many leading icons in professional skincare recognise Florence (and the training programs she has developed) as one of the few people uniquely capable to take professional skin treatment therapy and non-invasive aesthetic medicine into the realms of scientific skincare, with her expertise and educational services sought by organisations internationally. Florence Barrett-Hill has known Gay personally for many years and is pleased that she will be presenting the training program to Australian therapists. “Gay and I share the common goal of raising the level of awareness and knowledge of the professional therapist that will allow them to become more valuable, successful and contented in their careers,” said Florence. “As we develop new partnerships with talented and skilled educators such as Gay around the world, we will be able to offer more high-quality training and influence the beauty industry to develop and grow to new levels of technical competence.” Long-time ASLMS and APAA member Gay is well experienced and skilled to offer the Pastiche course, with over 25 years of industry experience, including clinic ownership, product distribution and the last four in technical education. With over a dozen industry-related awards and a passion to help others grow, the sky is the limit for this enthusiastic, passionate skincare educator and practitioner.
Gay will be teaching the level one version of the course, which is the core of the 2004 book of the same name.
For more information EDUCATION IN ADVANCED AESTHETICS 0420 332 343 or Email: info@ozabart.info www.advancedaesthetics.com.au www.pastiche.net.nz APJ 31
salon business
So you’ve bought your equipment ... what now? By Mariza Nuttall
“Equipment does not just hand out money, you have to do something. You have to make a plan to turn your equipment into a moneymaking machine.”
It’s a common scenario that salon owners buy their equipment and when it arrives in the salon everyone is excited, especially the owner, who thinks the money will just walk through the door. However, this is far from the reality. Equipment does not just hand out money, you have to do something. You have to make a plan to turn your equipment into a money-making machine. I sometimes encounter disappointed salon owners who in the past bought equipment and have not established the required strategies that the machine demands to transform it into a profitable investment. Why is this so? In this article I will attempt to share with you some tried and proven strategies that will ensure that your investment will turn into a great success.
TRAINING As soon as the machine gets delivered it is imperative to receive professional and comprehensive training. This shouldn’t be from a fellow beauty therapist who has been trained professionally, but rather from a qualified technician from the company that you bought the machine from. The training program that you undertake should be detailed and specific to your equipment. Each therapist should ask questions to ensure they are 100% confident in handling the machine and treating a APJ 32
client after training is completed. In the course of training the following should be covered: ! Indications for the treatment ! Contra-indications ! Method of application ! Client consultation ! Protocols on how to use the machine ! Sanitation ! Trouble shooting ! Confidential questionnaires/Informed Consent ! Treating different skin conditions ! Post-treatment careClient home care
MARKETING MATERIAL The moment that you know you are going to purchase any piece of equipment it is essential for you to promote this new service that your salon will be offering.
JOINT VENTURES Another way of creating business for your salon and its services is through a joint venture. The basic theory behind a ‘Joint Venture’ is teaming up with another reputable company that offers services that you don’t but complements yours, and build a mutual beneficial relationship. For example, if your salon is located near a plastic surgeon that does facelifts, you could arrange with them to do all their pre and post-operative care and in turn refer clients to them for plastic surgery. The company that you join with does not necessarily need to be another beauty salon, it could just be a café. It is, however, vital that whoever you choose to associate with is reputable. Having worked as a therapist myself I understand the nerves that take over when a client walks through the door. This is the reason why I have formulated a simple Seven-Step Process, which provides you and your staff with the confidence necessary to pull in the package of sales.
MARIZA’S 7-STEP PROCESS TO PULLING OFF A PACKAGE SALE... CONFIDENTLY! 1. Prospect The definition of a prospect is an apparent probability of advancement, success or profit. Every client that walks though your door is a prospect. As soon as they do, they should feel as though you are available to serve. Body language says so much about your state of mind. To build a level of comfort it is important to pay attention to personality types. For example take note of the speed of the prospect’s speech and adjust yours to match. Keep in mind that prospects will buy when there is a discrepancy between the perception they have of where they are and where they believe they should be. In other words, if the prospect feels there is no discrepancy they will not buy. Your task is to determine whether there is indeed a discrepancy. For example, if Mrs Jones has broken capillaries, but she wants skin that is problem-free, that is a discrepancy that you can utilise to promote a laser/photo-rejuvenation treatment package. 2. Presentation Providing beneficial and concise information to your prospect is vital in this process. One of the best ways to break the ice with the prospect is to pay them a compliment. Also words and phrases you can use to introduce your services are: “would you mind”, “could we please”, “is it possible to”, “may I just point out”, “let me assure you” and “if you could spare me a moment”. If you find it difficult to formulate your ideas on the spot, you should create yourself a script and learn this off by heart. If you find you get nervous you should practise in front of people you are comfortable with like a family member or friend. Remember when creating any script to try to “sell the Sizzle not the Steak”. I follow the “FAB” process when formulating what to say. FAB - F: features, A: advantages and B: benefits. 3. Qualify The art of turning a prospect into a qualified customer requires carefully pre-planned questions and listening for the response. Ask the client if what you’ve told them about would be of interest to them, then listen and don’t say anything. You can listen your way into more sales. Taking notes of what the prospect is saying is a way of showing your interest and understanding. You can even write down the information you gathered on a new client consultation card. Further demonstrate your intentness by providing a playback and asking further questions in response to these. 4. Further requests If the prospect requests any further information then highlight the benefits of the treatment. A prospect always wants to know “what’s in it for me”. You can also analyse the prospect’s skin and specifically highlight the benefits to the unique condition. Show the prospect testimonials, or before and after pictures. This often provides prospects with assurance that they’re entering a reputable deal.
5. Trial close This is a subtle yet clever way of asking if your prospect is ready to buy. Open with the line “Would you like me to book you a treatment?” Then don’t say anything, just wait for their response. The aim of this is not to demand a definitive decision, but rather an opinion. Don’t expect a yes/no answer, the prospect response simply allows you to test the water and gauge whether they are ready to close. Here’s some ways I approach the client when running promotions in different salons: “Let’s assume you can see the need for this treatment, would you be able to come every week?” “If you were in a position to buy this Mother’s Day promotional package, would you buy it outright to receive the special?” If your prospect answers with a YES, follow through with a close. If NO keep using alternate trial closes and reiterate the benefits or satisfy their objection. 6. Objection handling Objections are usually related to the price of the treatment or concerns about the treatment’s side-effects, or the level of comfort experienced during a treatment. You should learn to love requests for more information as they are a clear indication that a client is interested. 7. Close the sale “Let’s book your first treatment today.” It’s imperative that you have a closing strategy and learn to stick to it. Keep quiet when you close. Silence is Golden. Some other lines you could use are: “Would you like to book your treatment today?” “How would you like to pay for your treatment today?” “What day would you like to have your treatment?” By introducing these systems within your salon you will establish the essential tools for generating profits. It is not difficult, but does require a level of commitment and patience. At Good Looking Beauty we always make sure our clients get the maximum results out of their equipment.
Our motto is:
Quality Guaranteed Products - ‘On-Fire’ Training - Extraordinary Service - No Excuses! Mariza Nuttall is a qualified aesthetician and a CIDESCO diplomat since 1995 and has also undertaken extensive studies in Paris. She obtained her Confederation of International Beauty Therapy and Cosmetology in London. Highly committed to education, Mariza was a very active member of the CIDESCO Section in South Africa and has been a guest speaker in numerous expos and aesthetic conferences both here and internationally. Mariza’s talents and multi-skilling capabilities have led to her designing several spas and salons, both here and overseas. She is currently the principal and managing director of Good Looking Beauty, a highly successful product distribution company, which has been established in Australia for six years. A successful businesswoman, she has strong global ties with companies in Italy, France, Greece the US and South Africa. Mariza is highly committed to high standards of training, which she delivers not only for her own clients, but also for numerous colleges and TAFE institutions. She can be contacted on 02 9894 8068 or by email: info@goodlookingbeauty.com.au or visit her website www.goodlookingbeauty.com.au
APJ 33
personal profile Witty, incredibly amusing and strongly opinionated, but with a sensitive social conscience is how I would describe Jan Murray. Jan is very much a celebrity and well-known in political circles, not only as the former wife of John Brown, Federal Minister for Tourism during the Hawke Government, but also as a highly successful speechwriter and the Principal of her own company, Jan Murray & Associates – a PR firm that has operated with a high level of efficiency for over two decades. Since its establishment in 1981 as a boutique consultancy JMA has handled some of the nation's most significant public relations campaigns, including many that helped create Australia's modern tourism industry. A political science graduate with Honours, Jan went on to work as a speechwriter and adviser to Federal Labor politicians. She also played a seminal role in the historically successful Paul Hogan Shrimp on the Barbie campaign, an initiative of her then husband, John Brown. Jan’s achievements read like an international “Who’s Who” of Public Relations, from orchestrating a wide diversity of launches for new hotels and hospitality projects, to staging the $2.5 million Gala Opening of the Gold Coast International Hotel, with all major networks broadcasting live from the venue over a three-day weekend. The event saw international artists and celebrities flown in for the occasion and a raft of the country's most senior politicians officiating.
A woman who knows what’s best
Other achievements included the staging of a celebrity breakfast for 10,000 at the Gold Coast's Palm Meadows Golf Course to launch the Greg Norman Million Dollar Celebrity Golf Tournament for Daikyo (Australia). For Australia's Bicentennial, Jan’s consultancy undertook an emergency rescue of the ailing First Fleet Re-enactment Voyage by raising a million dollars over one weekend with a radiothon on 2GB. JMA augmented this by finding sponsorships for each of the vessels. This was necessary due to the Federal Government's continued refusal to support the project. The consultancy orchestrated a six month high-octane campaign to sustain the event through its troubled times, including negotiating with Australia's Indigenous people and turning negative media into positive publicity. JMA's crisis management and promotional skills resulted in over two million visitors coming to the shores of Sydney Harbour on Australia Day, 1988, to witness the arrival of the Fleet. Aboriginal Australia was able to make its point in a peaceful and positive way and, ironically, given the Federal Government's position throughout the “Re-enactment”, won the people's choice for the best event of the Bicentennial! The 1995 Sydney Lord Mayor's Bush Fire Appeal that the consultancy conducted (gratis and in crisis mode due to the emergency situation) was hugely successful once Jan had obtained the personal assurance of the Prime Minister, Paul Keating, that he would grant tax deductibility. All aspects of the dramatic week-long Appeal – from arranging financial and
APJ 34
by Tina Viney legal structures, banking and credit card arrangements, advertising material, media management, company coldcalling, etc – were handled by JMA. The Appeal, the most successful ever conducted in this country, resulted in a contribution from corporate Australia of over $11.2 million, demonstrating the ready access Jan has to this sector. Jan was appointed to the Trust by the Lord Mayor, Frank Sartor, which had responsibility for dispersing the funds. The following year Jan assisted the Lord Mayor again when it was evident that sponsorships for the Festival of Sydney were significantly under-subscribed. At short notice, JMA was able to arrange a Channel Nine, nationally televised Australia Day Concert in the Domain and a $500,000 Qantas partnership. In more recent times Jan has been seen on national television as a controversial and witty panellist on Beauty & the Beast. In addition to her on-air role, she has been engaged in writing and in raising funds for the production of feature films. Jan is in demand as a guest speaker. Her most recent invitation was as Guest Speaker opening the Fourth National Public Affairs Convention in Canberra in company with fellow speakers Noel Pearson, Jeff McMullen and Dr Ashton Calvert AC, Secretary of the Department of Foreign Affairs and Trade. 'Good Clean Spin' is the title the convenors have given the twoday seminar for public relations operatives.
At the helm of major projects this dynamic woman and her company have been responsible in delivering their skilled services for over two decades, some of which have become landmarks as some of Australia’s most memorable historical events.
When I have these wonderful treatments I would go away feeling and looking refreshed. People would comment that I looked great and asked me if I had just come back from a holiday. I just accepted their compliments – the treatments had worked!
As you can see Jan Murray is no newcomer to the pressures of frontline management and the need to always look her best. She is a strong advocate for women’s rights and believes that women can have it all.
Q4. Explain to us what aesthetics procedures have you experienced and how do you believe they have improved your skin and benefited you? Jan: My life is constantly on the go. I have always worked very hard, raised five children and taken on large projects in my professional life. As I have previously stated, I don’t shy away from a demanding life and physical challenges. These days I am heavily involved as a writer. I am currently writing my memoirs as well as a children’s novel. I also do business reports and business document writing.
We always hear from researchers and manufacturers about technological advances and product formulations, but what about looking at the viewpoint of the end user? I took the opportunity to ask Jan some questions on her views and experiences on appearance-enhancement procedures and aesthetic care. Q1: In your experience what role does personal appearance play in being taken seriously in the fiercely competitive political and business world? Jan: The truth is that in my business arena, personal presentation and appearance is a very important element in helping me reach the outcomes that I am looking for. I need to kick doors, overcome barriers and gain the right connections. Good presentation gives me the confidence I need to achieve the success I am looking for. It is another valuable business tool that helps me get the job done. Q2: How do you view “anti-ageing” and what does the term mean to you? Jan: All my life I have always tried to look after my body. I have never been a “gym bunny”, but I do yoga, I am careful with my diet and I don’t smoke. I like a physical challenge and to reach my objectives I need to have good stamina and internal fortitude. After all, we are organic beings and true anti-ageing requires that we address not only the external, but also our internal health. Meanwhile, as time ticks on, and particularly for us baby boomers, we need to keep a closer check on our internal health and wellness. Regular and thorough internal checks to ensure we are keeping tabs on our organ health, progressively becomes a necessity. I am not a fanatic in my approach to health practices, as I believe that fundamentalism is not a good thing and it is not necessary. Being too fanatical about health issues turns people away, as they cannot relax with you. What I try to do is take care of myself through a balanced approached for both my internal and external wellbeing. That to me is living with true anti-ageing principles. Q3. What anti-ageing and wellness services have been of great benefit to you? Jan: In the beginning I was a sceptic with the whole antiageing aesthetic and medical approach. However, on further investigation I must admit I have fully embraced it and am an advocate of it. Having a thorough internal assessment of what is happening in your body before it reaches a diseased state makes a lot of sense. Taking supplements and making minor lifestyle changes enabled me to balance out any deficiencies and that has been a wonderful thing. In my teen years I was ruthless with sun exposure. That is something I now have totally changed, as I become aware of the incredible ageing effect of the sun. Through IPL treatments I noticed that the brown spots on my skin and the back of my hands disappeared. I also noticed that the fine little hairs on the face (that become even more evident with TV makeup) started to disappear, which was also a great thing. This gave me the impetus to keep going with these treatments.
For my beauty care what works for me is a combination of procedures. I usually have IPL, Microdermabrasion, LED Mask and that wonderful Microcurrent that works on lifting my skin and muscles. My treatment of choice is a layered procedure available through the CACI technologies, as they offer great results and the combined approach really makes a huge difference in refreshing my appearance and truly making a difference. Q5. What changes have you seen in the evolution of the salon experience over the past 10 years? Jan: It has been incredible to see the beauty industry move with the times. What used to be considered as a frivolous industry has really evolved to embrace many changes that can now offer serious results. The new advances in equipment technology now allow us as consumers to gain some amazing anti-ageing results, making the whole investment and salon experience worthwhile. The scalpel is not for everyone, so to know that there are now some great non-invasive alternatives is wonderful news. Q6. What are your expectations of a salon treatment to ensure that it is a worthwhile investment? Jan: I now find that when I leave a salon treatment session where I have undergone a customised procedure that incorporates technologies I feel that my confidence is renewed and I can once again smile at the world. I know that my expectations of feeling better about myself and looking fresher and renewed at all levels can now be realistically met and why should I settle for anything less. Once you experience that level of result why go back to something less effective? Looking refreshed and feeling confident about myself are so important to me, particularly as in my professional life I am often surrounded with young people - Y gens and sometimes even X gens. They are the ones running the show these days and to them I could be their grandmother. No doubt I can bring a great deal of experience and wisdom to the table, but I want to be able to do that still looking fresh, energised and someone who can still look and relate to them in a contemporary way. Recently, I went to Los Angeles to pitch my story for a TV concept. Hollywood is very much into “beautiful people” who are all into anti-ageing and wellness. Good presentation is very much a priority for them and it certainly helps to open doors. It is refreshing to know that there is help for all ages to continue to look their best. I like to honour my body because it also keeps my mind alive and allows me to fulfil my purpose with zest. Having credible aesthetic care options is very reassuring.
APJ 35
International
a li a r t s u A n i w No
Become a Clinic today & deliver the famous ‘NON Surgical FaceLift’ Blitz your opposition Earn more money Improve your status Become better qualified Give your clinic a boost Impress your clients Create profitable repeat business DeliverTimeless Beauty
F R EE your
‘How to Boost CI Profits as a CA10’ Parts 1Clinic ‘‘P
on Call ForeverY ou ng details r u o y e v a le , 2 9 0 1300 799 ies. p o c e re f r u o y e iv to rece
I think CACI is one of the best treatments about and it’s a shame more people don’t have it. They are truly missing out! Louise, CACI Clinic Castle Hill, NSW
Ask u s tod a y a bout:
> Accredited Laser Safety Training > In-Clinic or Online Training for CACI & IPL/LED > Refresher & Customised Short Courses for CACI & IPL/LED > Teachers & Trainers Advanced Certifications for CACI & IPL/LED
1300 799 092 info@foreveryoung.net.au www.foreveryoung.net.au Exclusive Australian/NZ Agents for CACI International, Espansione IPL/LED & Chi Energy Skin Care
Stand Alone in Good Style Wet & Dry Foundation Natural Compatibles Wet & Dry Foundation is renowned for its flexible coverage. Creamy and smooth to touch, it creates the perfect natural oil-free look which will last all day. Natural Compatibles most loyal product now comes with its own retail Wet & Dry stand. The stylish white Perspex stand displays each of the three shades as testers plus your retail compacts all beautifully boxed and refills available for purchase.
THE COMPLETE STAND HOLDS: Light, Medium and Dark Wet & Dry as testers, plus the following for retail (value $754.00): 2 x Light Compacts 6 x Medium Compacts 2 x Dark Compacts COMPACT WITH STAND CONTAINS: 3 x Light Refill 6 x Medium Refills 3 x Dark Refills Packaged in a convenient and elegant purse-sized reusable compact Wet & Dry Foundation is an essential make-up accessory for every woman.
Application wet: Using a slightly damp wedge sponge press roll on to the skin to those areas requiring coverage, or can be applied to the entire face including the upper lid area. Application dry: Using a dry sponge press roll into the skin, and it’s a sheer coverage powder, perfect to set any liquid foundation. Natural Compatibles – The Trusted Name In Makeup Wet & Dry Foundation is available in 3 shades, RRP $ 43 For further information Contact Natural Compatibles
03 9764 0966 or visit www.naturalcompatibles.com.au APJ 37
anti-ageing
Ageing and its Association to Allergic Reactions and Sensitivity by Dr Dzung Price
One of the most common overlooked and underestimated causes of ageing and chronic inflammation is hidden allergies or sensitivities. Most people regard allergies, sensitivities or food intolerances as a mere inconvenience, instead of warning signs that the body is expressing unresolved deeper health issues that can spread over time. Little do they realise that unrecognised, untreated allergies and sensitivities can ruin your looks, accelerate the ageing process and cause intricate systems in the body to malfunction, triggering chronic inflammatory processes in the body. Underlying allergies can be the cause of a host of seemingly unrelated symptoms such as weight gain, depression, brain fog, tiredness and fatigue, irritable bowels, hormonal imbalance, migraines, etc. Only addressing symptoms with medications rather than dealing with the underlying cause often leads to more symptoms showing up in different organs. Allergies and food sensitivities might be the cause or aggravation of almost any disorder, and in my clinical practice I find that often enough this is the cause of many disorders.
ALLERGIC EPIDEMIC More and more people are becoming sensitive to food, cosmetic APJ 38
and personal care products that they use daily. We are facing an allergy epidemic. But how does this arise? The first thing we need to understand is that there is no such thing as the single reason for an allergy. An allergy or sensitivity is always caused by a sum of multiple factors or reasons. And there are quite a few of these reasons. Specifically, genetic susceptibility, some child-rearing practices, barrier function default, stress and toxic overload are in varying degrees responsible. Thus, an allergy or sensitivity attacking the lungs will cause asthma; one that attacks the bowel will produce abdominal pain, bloating and maybe diarrhoea or vomiting; one that attacks the joints will produce aching and stiffness; one that attacks the head will produce headaches, brain fog, lack of concentration, etc. It is only when the affected person tries an exclusion diet or a similar detoxification or unburdening step that they realise it was due to a food sensitivity, because it dramatically clears up. No part of the body is spared. Allergies and sensitivities can and do mimic many diverse conditions, such as cystitis, colitis, hormone disorders, hypertension, migraines, depression, arthritis, chronic fatigue, fibromyalgia, overweight, etc. Let us now introduce one of the most important of all healing principles, if not the most important, and that is that of total
body load. It is the key to all recoveries and overcoming all disease processes. No doctor really cures anything; Nature does that. All the successful physician can do is to reduce body load to allow this healing process to take place. Unfortunately, modern medicine with its pharmacology arsenal often adds to the biological burden instead of relieving it. As our food and environment become increasingly saturated with pollutants and chemicals, the body’s natural ability to eliminate and detoxify toxins cannot keep up with the chemical deluge. The modern world is full of stress, pollution and preservative-filled, chemically packed and genetically altered “food”. Allergies and sensitivities arise when the body’s systems are so overloaded with toxicity, emotional issues, mental stress and nutritional imbalances that the immune system becomes overwhelmed and confused. This contributes to food sensitivities in two ways: * It introduces more unnatural and foreign substances into the body, and * It does not provide adequate levels of nutrients necessary for proper liver detoxification.
THE MIND/BODY CONNECTION
I decided to perform a food-sensitivity test to see whether she had hidden food intolerances of which she was unaware. Sure enough, a list of common foods that she was eating every day showed up. To have any energy at all, Mary had to eat more food because her vast warehouse of energy was locked. Her immune system was depleted by poor nutrient absorption through a gut that was swollen from reaction to her food. This crippled immune system was misfiring and the auto-immune disease of hypothyroidism probably represented the immune system attacking the body itself. Happily, Mary underwent our Return to Health program, and her symptoms began to disappear. She underwent detoxification and digestive repair through a cleansing diet, supported by appropriate vitamin and mineral supplementation. We first removed reactive foods out of her diet and then proceeded with desensitisation. Very quickly her depression lifted, her irritable bowel calmed and her skin and sinuses
An allergy or sensitivity is always caused by a sum of multiple factors or reasons. And there are quite a few of these reasons. Specifically, genetic susceptibility, some child-rearing practices, barrier function default, stress and toxic overload are in varying degrees responsible.
Stress in any form, whether it is chemical, emotional, physical or environmental, can contribute to allergic symptoms. Any stress that is beyond a person’s ability to cope will lead to adaptive changes physically and mentally. Many people never got sick or became hypersensitive to their food or environment until after the death of a spouse, a divorce or an extremely stressful time, including a major infectious illness. When a trauma occurs, any strong stimuli, such as a food present at the time of the trauma, becomes part of the stored experience. Later, contact with any of the elements of the trauma (such as a specific food) can trigger the stored memory and activate a negative response. To demonstrate my point here are a couple of case studies:
cleared. Best of all, she started losing an average of 1.3kg per week. Her weight loss stabilised after losing 16 kilos. Within three months after the addition of low-dose thyroid supplementation for her subclinical hypothyroidism it was difficult to recognise her as the same woman who had come looking for help with her weight and health issues. She was now an alert, happy, slimmer woman who felt in control of her destiny and is making informed choices with her food.
ADDRESSING THE ROOT CAUSES I was testing one of my patients – “Melanie”, a migraine sufferer whom I was examining for sensitivity to various foods, when I discovered that she was reacting to strawberries, among many other things. Kinesiology testing showed an emotional component to her reaction. When I suggested this to her, she was shocked and immediately recalled a strong emotional trauma connected to strawberries. At five years old she was at a friend’s house happily eating strawberries picked fresh from the garden. For some reason, her friend’s stepmother suddenly yelled at her and kicked her out of her house. Since then, she could not eat strawberries without her lips swelling and has developed a dislike for them. After we cleared her for this emotional incident, Melanie could then eat strawberries without any reaction whatsoever. Treating her for the rest of her allergies and sensitivities completely resolved her migraines and hormonal mood swings. Can food sensitivities keep you fat? Another case, “Mary”, aged 44, came in to see me in despair, suffering from escalating weight gain, chronic sinusitis, irritable bowel syndrome, acne, hypothyroidism, fatigue and depression. She had been to various doctors and medical specialists in search of answers. After extensive investigations and several tests she was told that everything checked out OK and they could not find anything clinically wrong with her, and medications were prescribed to her to take care of her symptoms.
As skin therapists you often addressing skin sensitivity and allergies. It is therefore beneficial to understand that if the condition is triggered by internal toxic factors there is only so much that you can achieve through topical solutions. It is good to know that a thorough investigation can reveal the root cause of the problem, and can in fact totally alleviate the problem, both internally and on the skin. Sadly, most people don’t realise that symptoms are the last thing to show up in the body when it has already run out of buffers and can no longer compensate. It has been my experience that regular detoxification and reducing your total toxic load is the closest thing to the fountain of youth that a person has. What could be more important than bringing your load of diseasecausing chemicals and toxins down to where it was 10-50 years ago? And since the world will never run out of ways of poisoning us, we all need a steady plan to detoxify and we undoubtedly will need it forever. So what do you need to do today that would start you on a healthier anti-ageing track for lifelong health and beauty? 1. Avoid eating meals under stress or on the run. Bless your meals. Take time to savour and eat your foods in a calm and peaceful environment as this will optimise assimilation and digestion and prevent unwanted sensitivities to food. 2. Get yourself tested for possible food or environmental
APJ 39
sensitivities, remove known reactive foods from your diet, and watch your skin and health improve. 3. Find easy ways to detoxify and cleanse regularly, preferably every day. I have been taking the CHI Detox Formulas and detox salts in water daily for over two years to keep my extracellular matrix clean and my organ filters efficient. It is simple and easy to do. 4. Exercise regularly, breathe deeply and bounce on a rebounder (mini trampoline) to move sluggish lymphatics and mobilise toxins. 5. Optimise your hormone levels with herbs, nutrients and bio-identical hormones if required.
6. Nurture your body with living and whole foods. Not only are they enzyme-rich, but assist in alkalising the body for optimal healing. We live in an era where credible information is so easily accessible and readily available to us. As practitioners plan ahead intelligently, both for yourself and for the benefit of your clients. There are now so many wonderful breakthroughs in the science of anti-ageing that there is really no good reason, other than selfneglect, to accept the breakdown of age. The answer is never in just one area. The solution is in implementing positive strategies in several areas through informed choices. How do you know that you are on the right track? When you feel renewed and experience an increased vigour and mental clarity – then you will know that you have turned back the clock on ageing. Dr Dzung Price is a holistic medical practitioner with qualifications in Nutrition and Environmental Medicine, Naturopathy, Acupuncture, Bioenergetic Medicine and Homotoxicology. Using a comprehensive array of healing modalities and cutting-edge medical technologies, Dr Price works to address the root causes of disease and the lack of wellness in her patients. She is well-known for her ground-breaking work in the field of allergy medicine and nutrition. She is the author of Your Allergy Free Child, 7 Day Detox Guide and Younger, Healthier Skin in any Age. Dr. Price is the co-founder of CHI Health Innovations, a company devoted to the provision of bioenergised natural health products for wellness and beauty. She operates out of two clinics in Brisbane and the Gold Coast. For further information see www.chihealthinnovations.com
APJ 40
INNOVATE / INSPIRE COMFORTEL SPA DESIGN
Innovate and inspire with the new Comfortel Design service – helping you to create a vision for your spa with Comfortel Furniture. Realise your dreams with the Comfortel Design Service.
NEW Ask for more details
Scorpio
Skin Bella • Microdermabrasion for Spa
Pedicure spa – grand
Spa Jet
Nannolight™ Intense Pulsed Light
Latest technology for treatment of: • Permanent Hair Reduction • Pigmented Lesions • Vascular Lesions • Photorejuvenation • Acne
Call for your free 60 page catalogue
Victoria Moorabbin 03 9553 5504 New South Wales Artarmon 02 9966 5900 Queensland Slacks Creek 07 3209 1444 South Australia Thebarton 08 8443 3703 Western Australia Bentley 08 9258 4446 New Zealand Auckland 09 525 3357 www.comfortel.com.au
3649 SPA AUST AD FA.indd 1
21/11/08 3:41:33 PM
anti-ageing & wellness
Introducing the ‘Ageless Body’. Gaining the BETTER BODY by Susan Sheehan Director of Healthy Hormones It is a well-known fact that the contemporary salon or clinic now needs to broaden its scope of services to incorporate wellness and anti-ageing benefits to a progressively ageing population. However, these services must be within the scope of one’s qualifications. Another successful strategy is to partner with other professionals and offer treatments or services that are an adjunct and complement your own, such as an external physician who can perform injectables, or a fitness and wellness expert such as the Affiliate program offered by Susan Sheehan, director of Healthy Hormones. In this article Susan presents an educational article that profiles some of the principles on which her programs are based. Energetic and very much a reflection of what she advocates and can offer women, Susan always achieves successful outcomes in assisting women to improve their quality of life. The best anti-ageing secret is the individual who doesn’t accept decreased performance as a symptom of age and who doesn’t accept that they are past their personal best . The truth is that the ageing process can be extremely unkind, and as I am sure you are aware gravity can cause even the most stunning of people to ‘sag and bag’ in places that had been ‘taut
APJ 42
and tight’. Accepting a saggy, baggy backside as being OK just because a woman is older is something that I for one am not willing to accept, and neither should you. So, if she is not accepting decreased energy, vitality and that size 12 waist as a symptom of age, what must she do so she knows that her ageing process is merely a movement in time and that she has complete control over how her body performs through this time. Confusing? Maybe, but then there is satisfaction in knowing that as a woman 40+ she has the ability to consciously ask herself quality questions about what is needed to have a ‘better body’. You see, a youthful body can be a little more resilient and forgiving, but the saving grace of ageing is the developed sense of reason and an inner awareness and intuition that encourages quality questions to be asked. A woman 40+ has knowledge and experience that contributes to the decisions she makes. It is through reason and the answers she gives herself that the realisation of her ageing process has given her the incredible gift of wisdom. Would you really want to trade this for the uncertain emotional instability of the young? Not I… but then there is no way that you will see me going up a size in jeans either.
LOVE YOUR BODY AND LIVE YOUR LIFE HEALTHY, HAPPY & WHOLE! Your ‘better body’ has to start with the conscious decision to love oneself enough to do whatever it takes to be the best you can be, and that the ‘ageless body’ flows with a calm, confident
control. It is always a question of being resourceful, and when you really want something, and I mean really want it, your awareness to the right information just sort of turns up. Your nervous system can only process so much information at any one time, and if the focus is for a ‘better body’ then that’s the information that can miraculously appear. It is therefore extremely important to be aware of what the focus is on. If a woman believes she is old, fat and out of shape then she is going to notice every fatty and out of shape area of her body around. As a result her unconscious mind will do one of two things – disappear into a state of random, or believe that’s where she wants to be. And this can keep her fat, flabby, unfit and frustrated! But change the belief about yourself, deciding to love the body you are in, and you will be pleasantly surprised at the transformation. The secret is that the ‘better body’ can only be manifested through the desire for an ‘ageless’ body.
FIRST THINGS FIRST… GOOD HEALTH Good health can belong to the young and old, but the healthier a 40+ body is as it ages the more youthful it is going to be.
It is more than just designing a ‘better body’– it is about building a woman’s self image and helping her find her purpose in preparation for the rest of her life.
First, age is no reason to stop looking after your body. It is the reason why you must continue to look after it and the right conditions can enable you to improve rather than decline. Second, a 40+body is not given the luxury of time or resilience, but it is given the essence of strength and fortitude, and the ability to regenerate, so the ‘ageless body’ is fit, firm and fabulous. Third, in order to age with great health, perfect posture, a nice, tight body and an alert, active mind it is important to focus on balance, stimulation, excitement, enthusiasm and prescription of exercise specific to you personally.
WHAT DOES IT MEAN TO BE TRULY HEALTHY AT 40+? To be free of all disease, to have the energy you need to live your life, and to radiate beauty, balance and harmony – and of course wear the clothes you love to wear! I know that it can sometimes be challenging to find that natural flow of energy and peace. I was watching a movie the other night and one of the actors made this statement “To love is to feel excitement in your heart and peace in your mind”. When you experience true love you have a peace and harmony within that comes from the absence of doubt and fear. LOVE therefore is the very first state you must reveal to achieve greatness in any form. And isn’t it also true that when you love something or someone you have the want and the will to do whatever it takes with excitement and passion to give freely and without judgement? Your ‘ageless body’ starts with learning to love YOU! Love doesn’t just happen – You must choose it.
AND THEN COMES… ‘THE LOOK’ Are you too fat or are you too skinny? Do you want bigger boobs, or smaller ones? Is your butt too big or just too saggy? Are your legs too short, too long, too fat, or lack shape? Are your hips too wide or to narrow? Do you have ‘tuckshop’ arms or dry, wrinkly skin? Are your jeans too tight or you just can’t wear
them any more? Do you smile at what you see in the mirror? Do you really want a ‘better body’? I remember 10 years ago I was working with a young man with cerebral palsy. We would swim, I would stretch his twisted little limbs… we were friends. One day he asked me why we just couldn’t go somewhere to make his legs work better. I looked at him with sadness and explained as gently as what I could why his legs were as they were. As I drove home from Johnny’s that day I said a little prayer of gratitude and promised that I would never complain about my short legs and fat ankles again. And although to this day I admire and love long, luscious legs, I never complain about the legs I have been given. I do, however, what I must to keep my legs strong and healthy.
THE HEALTHY HORMONES ‘BETTER BODY’ FORMULA Designing a ‘better body’ that has an ageless appeal has to start with removing any limiting beliefs and fears around the ageing process. As a woman reaches mid-life it is not about longing for the good old days and wishing she had her 19-year-old body again. It’s about showing her that these are still the good days and that she must not accept anything unless it is for her good. The Healthy Hormones coaching program is highly personalised. It is all about her and the first stage of the program is to determine specifically what the problem is, what she has done about it in the past… and WHAT SHE WANTS! Along with Dr Andrew Fell, Healthy Hormones has created a Dream Visioning Process that takes women on a journey of discovery and awareness. At the end of it she not only knows what she wants, but she can see exactly where she is going and what she has to do to get there. My research has confirmed to me that 100% of women have an increase in body fat once they reach 40+ish. So when it comes to the big question – “How would you like to look?” 90% of women will say… “I want to lose weight.” Now remember that weight is relative to each woman, so although a woman may not look fat to another, her perception of self can be very different. If she is feeling fat and frumpy then her self-esteem and self worth are compromised.
APJ 43
Quality nutrition, super foods and specific supplementation form an important link in the Menopause Relief Advisor Program. The vitamins and minerals that I recommend have been formulated specifically for a 40+ body and provide a woman with the essential nutritional elements. I also have a natural cleaning product that is completely free of harmful chemicals. The 40+ body has its own “inner battles” to fight without putting more poisons into it. The secret to a ‘better body’ is simple - to love oneself enough to want to know how to do it better! The ‘ageless body’ flows with grace, dignity, pride and beauty.
The second stage of the Healthy Hormones Program addresses lifestyle habits. I educate women to focus on the ‘effort of doing’ and that weight loss is just what happens when the body is put back into a healthy balance. The challenges that women 40+ face are only known to that of a woman 40+ and because of this she must have the respect, admiration and love she deserves. It is more than just designing a ‘better body’ – it is about building a woman’s self-image and helping her find her purpose in preparation for the rest of her life.
HEALTHY HORMONES PRODUCTS The ‘ageless body’ is a relationship between the health and wellness of the brain and body and incorporates the wisdom of Mother Nature and the knowledge of science and technology. The products that support the Menopause Relief Advisor Program are all natural, simple, effective and form part of the ‘home health and beauty program’. I am not a medical professional, nor am I a beauty consultant or therapist, I am a woman 40+ who started studying the human brain and body when my intellectually impaired son was a small child. Matthew is now 25, drug free, high functioning and healthy. My career has spanned 20 years in the health and wellness industry and there is one thing I know for absolute certainty, and that is this: The human body has the ability to be ‘better’ if you give it what it needs. The ‘better body’ must be clean, renewed, nourished, stimulated, strengthened and supported from the inside out. Then shaped, sculpted and stretched from the outside (and that’s only the beginning). I have a natural fat-loss drink (not a meal replacement) that controls the release of glucose and insulin, reduces appetite, stops absorption of fats and lowers leptin resistance (connects brain to fat cells). The science behind this product demonstrates that it helps an over-fat, unhealthy body function at a healthier level. Exercise is an anti-ageing therapy and women 40+ must learn how to do it differently. I have written “Exercise – how to do it at 40+” as a simple reference that differentiates from that of a younger woman. Www.exerciseandanti-ageing.com
APJ 44
WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT SUSAN “Suzie is amazing. Her continuous stream of positive energy is incredible and contagious and truly elevates her passion and dedication to the health and wellbeing of others, especially women over 40”. Rochelle Cook, Sassy Event Management. “During the past four years, I have been coached under the guidance of Susan Sheehan - Healthy Hormones. In that time, Healthy Hormones have transformed me from a run-down business person to a fighting-fit 59-year-old! Healthy Hormones has achieved this through total professionalism and vast knowledge of how the human body works. Susan Sheehan (Director of Healthy Hormones) has a knack of assessing one’s body and then adopting varied exercise routines to suit your body’s requirements. She is also a nutritional expert and recommends the right health supplements, again to suit your needs. She introduced me to one-on-one Pilates, which I am wrapped in and seem to be quite effortless in achieving brilliant results! It is a combination of all of the facets that makes Susan a cut above the rest in her profession, and she makes it all so much fun. I have her to thank for making me feel like a 40-year-old. I can highly recommend Healthy Hormones and I have the results to prove it!” D. Glasgow, Main Beach, Qld If you would like to introduce the Healthy Hormones Affiliate Program in your salon or clinic or book Susan for a seminar phone on 07 5598 3352 or visit www.menopausereliefadvisor.com and click on “Become an Affiliate Member” and follow the prompts. Susan’s Sheehan career has spanned 20 years in the health and wellness industry and she is the Founder of Healthy Hormones. a motivational speaker, and a Mind and Body Performance Coach. Susan is a registered Personal Trainer, a Lifestyle Coach, she has studied Pilates for 12 years and a certified NLP, NRP, CIP and Hypnosis practitioner. Susan combines her knowledge and experience to transform the performance of women 40+. She has spent considerable time in the US furthering her studies in coaching and speaking and is currently studying an advanced diploma in nutrition. Contact Susan on 0410 612 231.
Do you want to grow your business and increase your income simply by referrals? The Healthy Hormones AFFILIATE PROGRAM benefits your clients and your business. ! No joining fee ! Increase your cashflow simply by referring ! Add an additional valuable service to your business ! Creating a healthy women’s network to increase your business opportunities
Receive regular income for referring – it’s that simple! THE AFFILIATE PROGRAM is a commercial one where Affiliates are rewarded financially for every person referred to Healthy Hormones who signs up to the life-changing Menopause Relief Advisor Program or the Inspirational Workshop Retreat. Why not extend your service to offer this valuable program to women over 40+ who could benefit from anti-ageing strategies and improve their quality of life? “I have had the pleasure to work with Sue during the past 12 months and have experienced firsthand her wealth of information. Sue is a very passionate speaker and through her knowledge and personal life experiences knows her material very well. Sue educates and coaches people on a personal and very caring level with her successful “Healthy Hormones” principles as she has experienced what you may be going through. Sue walks her talk and is an inspiration to be around. Her presentations are not to be missed as they are a wealth of information. She gives you the tools that empower you to come away feeling well informed and inspired.” Wayne Jeskie J.P. “Shape Your World”
Together, everyone achieves more. How to join the Affiliate Program? Go directly to www.healthyhormones.com.au, click on “Become an Affiliate” and follow the prompts. Additional information is available on the web site or call Susan on 0410 612 231.
skin treatment
Ayurvedic solutions for PIGMENTATION, ACNE & SCARRING
Ayurveda has addressed pigmentation and acne conditions for many thousands of years, chiefly because both are indigenous to the land of its origin, India. Pigmentation is seen more significantly on darker skins and acne is a major problem for teenagers. As a consequence, facial treatments and take-home products for these conditions formed an essential part of Ayurvedic beauty. Wheat, barley, lentils, saffron, bael fruit and jamun fruit are some key ingredients in many specifically formulated her b al co mb i n atio n s , which when made into a paste with egg white, yoghurt or milk and honey, provide a highly detoxifying, anti-bacterial, protein-rich and APJ 46
antioxidant effect to the skin. While providing very effective results in addressing a variety of conditions, these herbals are highly effective and help to balance the delicate acid mantle, rejuvenate and deep cleanse the skin. Forming part of the traditional Ayurvedic facial, these herbal treatment combinations can also be used in conjunction with mainstream protocols such as microdermabrasion, LED or oxygen t h e r a p y. They are particularly recommended for those who have very sensitive skin or a darker complexion to help strengthen the skin prior to and between the more intensive, equipment-based procedures.
THE ACTION OF AZELAIC ACID The grains from wheat, barley and rye are known to contain a specific component called Azelaic Acid, which studies have revealed is beneficial in the treatment of conditions such as hyperpigmentation, acne, rosacea-related disorders and scarring. A naturally occurring saturated dicarboxylic acid, Azelaic Acid was trialed over 30 years ago as a topical treatment for hyperpigmentation. It was only by chance that its properties were discovered to be helpful in the treatment of acne. Identified as a molecule present in some parts of plants, it was shown to be able to enhance the resistance of these plants to infection. Azelaic Acid is considered to contain anti-microbial properties and is recommended in the treatment of mild to moderate acne, both comedonal and inflammatory. Its bactericidal properties work against a variety of micro-organisms that are present on acneic skin. Furthermore, Azelaic Acid has been shown to also display anti-keratinising properties. Its anti-bacterial properties work to diminish bacteria in the follicle, while its keratolitic properties minimise the excessive buildup of keratin that may lead to acne. Azelaic Acid does not appear to form a resistance to bacteria, and unlike benzoyl peroxide, does not stain the skin. It is particularly useful during the summer months as it is not photosensitive and is also an alternative for those unable to use topical retinoids. It also helps to reduce pigmentation and darker patches and markings that often result from persistent acne.
OMVEDA’S ENZIME AND VEGETABLE PEEL MASKS Azelaic Acid is found in OmVeda’s Vegetable Peel Mask, a specialised Ayurvedic mix of active herbs featuring key ingredients of Wheat and Barley and Jambul. While familiar with the properties and benefits of grains, this Mask also contains another essential ingredient called Jambul, a recognised high source of natural Vitamins A and C in addition to Sandalwood, Cinnamon and Nutmeg. This potent mask is in powder form and is designed to be blended with organic milk or yoghurt to trigger its vital properties. The natural enzymes found in the yoghurt/milk work in synergy to activate the herbs, helping to accelerate cell renewal, minimise the appearance of darker patches and brighten the complexion. “What makes this mask so unique,” says Yasmin Sadikot, creator of OmVeda “is the use of the whole grain rather than a concentrated extract. It is gentle, yet effective and 100% natural.” The Vegetable Peel Mask delivers noteworthy results in helping to brighten the complexion, enhance tone and texture and minimise the appearance of darker patches and markings due to sun exposure, pregnancy or hormonal changes, while also promoting skin suppleness and smoothness. Another superb option on the Ayurvedic menu is the use of a double-herbal mask, which is often recommended to speed up the effectiveness of the facial treatment. The first mask acts to deep cleanse while the second mask intensifies results. A prime example is the OmVeda Enzime Mask (which has powerful cleansing properties) and the Vegetable Peel combination. The Enzime Mask is an exceptionally concentrated and active enzyme and vitamin complex rich in wheat, jamun berry, almond, sandalwood, lotus and nutmeg. The jamun berry is loaded with minerals such as manganese, zinc, iron, calcium, sodium and potassium. The result of this double-mask treatment is an enlivened complexion with enhanced clarity, tone, suppleness and a boost in elasticity.
For more information on OmVeda treatments please contact 1 300 662 383 or visit www.omveda.com.au. APJ 47
anti-ageing
Sleep, Beauty and Orange Sunglasses Henry Osiecki BSc. (Hons). Postgraduate Diploma in Nutrition and Dietetics The role of sleep in renewing our youthful appearance is now well documented, and research is revealing some interesting information that explains why poor sleep can prematurely age us and ways that it can be corrected. At the recent AustralAsian Academy of Anti-Ageing Medicine Conference held in Melbourne in October, Henry Osiecki presented two very informative papers on the subject of sleep. We caught up with Mr Osiecki and he kindly accepted to present a two-part article for APJ readers and members of APAN. This is the first of his articles. APJ 48
Good, refreshing sleep is the foundation of beauty and mental health. Yet it is one of the least understood parameters in making the body vibrant and beautiful. Many scientific papers have confirmed the concept that we need 7-8 hours of sleep per night, as this is the amount of sleep associated with the lowest mortality and morbidity. Women are more prone to sleep problems than men. Just look at the following statistics in Table 1.
Table 1: Sleep Disorders in Women (1998 NSF Poll. USA) 31% Report daytime effects of sleep disturbance 25% Report significant daytime sleepiness 74% Report sleeping less than 8 hours/night 27% Report impaired job performance 24% Have impaired ability to care for family 14% Report falling asleep while driving 53% Often/always experienced insomnia during the previous month 31% Use pharmacology to maintain alertness 13% Use prescription drugs 8% Use alcohol for sleep Women also complained significantly more often than men of insomnia, restless legs, depression, nightmares, palpitations at night and hallucinations. Superimpose the effect of lifestyle and the figures are quite alarming. Approximately 85% of working women report fatigue and exhaustion, 60% have difficulty in sleeping, 40% of full-time employed women get less than 6.5 hours of sleep. Furthermore, women shift workers get between 1.5 and 4 hours less sleep per day than non-shift workers, resulting in increased chronic daytime sleepiness and insomnia .
As there is wide individual variation in menstrual cycles, particularly with ratio differences between various hormones, the effect of these hormonal changes on sleep as well as life situations and stresses, sleep quality can become quite variable. For instance, in healthy young women without children, the following changes have been observed in the luteal phase (period after ovulation and before mensus): ! Increased amplitude of core body temperature ! Increased total melatonin secretion (this hormone is important in establishing a sleep pattern), particularly with higher levels of progesterone ! Decreased amplitudes of Thyroid stimulating hormone (TSH) and cortisol rhythms ! Increased sleepiness ! Increased occurrence of slow-wave sleep during the daytime ! Melatonin levels appear to correlate with the menstrual cycle and probably with the lunar cycle. Melatonin levels reach their zenith prior to and during menstruation, gradually declining to their nadir during ovulation.
Recent research suggests that there is a cause-effect relationship between the decline of nocturnal levels of melatonin and onset of menopause.
Lifestyle factors such as o b e s i t y, s m o k i n g , marital/relationship issues, menopause and mood disturbance all influence the quality of sleep. On the other hand, poor sleep quality can be associated with mood and effect changes, decreased cognition, diabetes, obesity and performance deficits and if the complaint is serious, an increase in morbidity; increased menstrual irregularities, infertility, miscarriage, low birth-weight babies, premature labour and, of course, loss of beauty. The obvious question is, why are women more prone to sleep problems than men?
IS IT THEIR HORMONES? Oestrogens have primary effects on increasing rapid eye movement (REM) sleep (REM sleep is associated with dreaming and washing out negative emotional content of your mind). Oestrogens also weaken the coupling of body temperature with the sleep wake cycle, resulting in a longer time to fall asleep (i.e increase sleep latency), more awake periods during sleep and increase in total sleep time. Progesterone, on the other hand, has a benzodiazepine-like sedative effect by influencing non-rapid eye movement (NREM) sleep .(NREM sleep is associated with body recuperation, healing and increasing body reserves.) It decreases the time to go to sleep (i.e decreases sleep onset latency) and reduces wake periods during sleep. So the balance of these hormones during the menstrual cycle determines the quality of sleep that young women experience. This can be seen in women who suffer premenstrual mood symptoms (PMS), who have more stage 2 sleep (light sleep) and seemingly less short-wave sleep (SWS – deep, refreshing sleep) and REM sleep as well as a blunted circadian rhythm of melatonin. PMS women reported an increased daytime sleepiness, lethargy and fatigue compared to asymptomatic women.
These observations suggest that the amplitude of circadian oscillation may be dampened in the luteal phase, and that melatonin secretion may increase sleep around menstruation time.
MENOPAUSE AND SLEEP The greatest change in a woman’s physical beauty occurs around menopause. About 20% of menopausal women sleep less than six hours a night. Many have difficulty in sleep maintenance because of nocturnal hot flushes (associated with frequent arousals/awakenings), resulting in decreased sleep efficiency. Insomnia may affect 44-61% of peri and postmenopausal women. This may be due to low oestrogen levels and elevated luteinising hormone in menopausal women. In addition, higher body-core temperature prior to and during sleep has been significantly correlated with poorer sleep efficiency. In ageing women, night levels of melatonin decline progressively, attaining minimum levels in menopause. Thyroid and ovarian functions decline during ageing, while there is a steady increase in the hormones regulating ovarian function [luteinising hormone (LH) and follicle-stimulating hormone (FSH)]. A desynchronisation of pineal circadian rhythm as expressed by the progressive decrease of the melatonin night peak may be permissively linked to the onset and progression of menopause and sleep problems Recent research suggests that there is a cause-effect relationship between the decline of nocturnal levels of melatonin and onset of menopause. Supplemental melatonin has been found to negate hormonal, menopause-related, neuro-vegetative disturbances as well as restoring the menstrual cycle and fertility in perimenopausal or menopausal women. Melatonin supplementation also produces a significant improvement of thyroid function, increases the sex hormones to younger levels, and decreases menopause-related depression.
APJ 49
This should not be surprising as melatonin has: Hypothermic properties and its nocturnal secretion generate about 40% of the amplitude of the circadian body temperature rhythm. ! Sleep-inducing properties ! Helps regulate circadian rhythms. ! Regulates sleep time and rhythm ! Exerts protective effects on the cardiovascular system, by reducing the risk of atherosclerosis and hypertension, and may influence immune responses. ! Acts as an antioxidant ..
!
All these factors suggest that melatonin administration to post-menopausal women taking HRT may have a beneficial role. This suggests to me that melatonin is the beauty hormone, particularly in middle-aged women. So anything that decreases its release or synthesis in the body may contribute to the ageing process and the decline of physical beauty. One of these factors is the toxic light environment that we all experience, as well as decreased sleep duration.
SLEEP AND THE ROLE OF LIGHT Bright light or blue light (430-460nm) can suppress the release of melatonin and this can have profound effects on a personâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s circadian rhythm. In other words, individuals who are exposed to blue light (as experienced from a TV screen or high-intensity discharge [HID] lamps used as motor-vehicle headlamps, and blue light-emitting diodes [LEDs] in consumer goods such as mobile telephones, audio players and computers) at night can have disrupted sleep. In is interesting to note that exposure to short-wavelength visible light increases alertness and vigilance in humans. In one experiment the researchers compared three kinds of nocturnal light exposure, all from 11-30 pm to 5-30 am, as a means of improving performance in a simulated nighttime truck driving task. The exposures were <1.5 lux of 460 nm (blue) light, <1.5 lux of 640 nm (green) light, and <1 lux of white light. (Moonlight is approximately 0.2 lux.) They found performance on a Psychomotor Vigilance Task was enhanced and delta and theta EEG activity was suppressed by the blue light exposure, but not by other exposures. Therefore less than 1.5 lux of blue light is sufficient to keep humans alert during normal sleep time. Although not the purpose of the experiment, this means that such an exposure would hinder normal sleep at night. One way of reducing the impact of blue light is to wear orangecoloured sunglasses in the evening. This will ensure a natural rhythm of melatonin secretion and establishing a normal circadian rhythm rather than a delayed one. This is very important if a woman is to maintain her beauty through her middle years. Supplementing with melatonin or with tryptophan (the precursor substrate for melatonin synthesis) and blocking blue light with orange-coloured sunglasses can slow the progression of physical and mental deterioration associated with age. Maintaining a rhythm is the key. Disrupted rhythms are the carriers of disease and loss of vitality and beauty.
APJ 50
Henry Osiecki BSc. (Hons). Postgraduate Diploma in Nutrition and Dietetics Henry Osiecki has been a leading Clinical Nutritionist in Australia for over 25 years. As the founder of Bio Concepts, he has been an integral part of the development and success of this company. As a Biochemist, Dietitian and Nutritionalist, Henry's philosophy was to integrate cutting edge nutritional research into therapeutic products of maximal efficiency. Bio Concepts formulations use only essential and synergistic ingredients in their nutritional formulations. In addition to product development, Henry Osiecki has authored a number of books and his recent focus is in the areas of cancer, mental health and anti-ageing medicine. Henry has brought together medical models and traditional therapies to form a comprehensive understanding of the biochemical processes involved in cancer development, as well as helping practitioners to grasp the concepts of mood disorder biochemistry and mitochondrial function with nutritional medicine. He is co-author of the Book: Sleep Health and Consciousness - A Physicianâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Guide. Henry Osiecki was a speaker at the recent AustralAsian Academy of Anti-Aging Medicine Conference 2009 in Melbourne. For more information on Anti-Ageing Medicine please visit or phone: 03 9813 0439.
â&#x20AC;&#x153;My aesthetician prescribed indio and my skin has never looked better.â&#x20AC;? 126% to 150% mark-up All stockists must sign an internet prohibition agreement More free gift with purchase stock than any other supplier We send you new clients via national marketing campaigns Supply to professional salons, medical clinics and day spas only
S NO TR IN ICT T L E SA R Y LE NE S T
No minimum order required
Proudly Australian made and owned
nuala design - IND0227
Secure your area now before your competitor does!
For superior results For more information phone Indio Skincare 02 9669 6858 e: sales@indioinc.com.au or visit indioskincare.com
ND0806 Indio APAN Full Page.indd 1
2/12/09 11:51 AM
anti-ageing from porcine sources. From there, the big step was the introduction of autologous collagen, where the patient’s own collagen is harvested and laboratory prepared to be injected back into the same patient. The greatest advantage of autologous treatment is that reaction and rejection did not occur, which was a possibility using the non-self collagen options, even after the two patch tests that were advised; although with the use of bioengineered substances reactions have been very rare. Collagen is still around, although it has been replaced largely by various forms of hyaluronic acid that have had generations of change applied from different organic and non-organic sources, with various molecular weights to provide cross-linked monophasic and/or biofermentation formulations. The cross-linking was a breakthrough as this slowed the absorption and enzymatic breakup of the substance, so the filler became longer-lasting than the previous generation of hyaluronic preparations. Most dermal fillers are biodegradable, thereby being non-permanent, although some on the market are semi-permanent and some are actually non-biodegradable and permanent.
A new horizon in skin rejuvenation Platelet-Rich Plasma (PRP) by Terry Everitt At the recent Australasian Academy of Anti Ageing Medicine (A5M) conference held October in Melbourne the renowned Sydney-based Ear, Nose and Throat (ENT) and Facial Plastic Surgeon Dr Michael Zacharia (who is also President of A5M) presented the Platelet Rich Plasma technique for skin rejuvenation and his experience with it. Before we get to this interesting autologous cosmetic procedure let us look at a little background on dermal fillers and how they are used. There have been over the years many advances in dermal fillers and almost every other month there is a new one to talk about. The wide array of dermal fillers available is in fact not that big as there are only a few actual fillers – the confusion comes from having so many individual proprietary trade names in each of the filler classes. The first generation collagen dermal fillers were mostly from bovine sources, while further generations of these fillers came APJ 52
Hydroxylapatite is the basis of some of the semi-permanent fillers and then we progressed to poly-lactic acid as dermal filler. Other substances used were polyacrylamide and silicone even made a short comeback.
One of the latest dermal fillers to introduce a new generation is under the trade-named Mesolis+, which is a cross-linked hyaluronic acid with the addition of glycerol, thus making it a moisturising dermal filler that can be used on larger areas such as the chest.
AUTOLOGOUS ADIPOSE TISSUE Autologous adipose tissue has been used as filler for many years, where fat was taken from one part of the body, prepared, and then injected into a different part of the body. The problem with this, however, was the different absorption ratios where some areas ‘took’ while others did not, or not as much, so unevenness was frequently a long-term concern. Different substances are better placed either high (superficial) or low (deep) into the dermis, and this is in part where the great confusion of names comes into play, as each individual substance has its own name. This depends on several factors, such as what it is made of, its ‘thickness’ and where it is placed in the dermis.
This informational article is based on Dr Michael Zacharia’s presentation and material supplied by the Australian distributors of the system, Australian Medical & Scientific Limited.
inflammatory cells and fibroblasts.
PLATELET-RICH PLASMA One new frontier of dermal enhancement procedures in Australia is the use of the patient’s own blood in a process termed Autologous Cellular Rejuvenation (ACR), now more commonly known as Platelet-Rich Plasma (PRP). This is the new star so you better know about it as your clients certainly will hear about it and ask you for your opinion. However, PRP is a bio stimulant of the patient’s own collagen and elastin, it is an injection, although not a dermal filler in the strict sense of the word. While this has been available in other countries for some time, it is relatively new to Australia. It involves a simple and effective process of taking blood, spinning it, and injecting back only the part of it that is rich in growth factors. This causes a stimulation of stem-cell growth factors to increase the production of collagen and the glycosamino acids, causing a fuller dermal matrix.
PROCESS Depending on the area and volume to be injected, about 10-20 mls of blood is taken and centrifuged for approximately eight minutes. This rapid spinning separates the whole blood into three layers. Then the platelet-enriched plasma is drawn off, mixed with calcium-chloride and injected into a deep plane of the dermis, or even the adipose tissue in the subcutaneous layer. All this can be achieved within an hour appointment with time to spare.
SIDE-EFFECTS While there possibly will be minimal swelling, bruising and redness is common and may last 12-24 hours. It is possible for cellulitis to occur, however, this is very rare. It really is a safe procedure, although it is not for everyone.
CONTRAINDICATIONS Some blood disorders or abnormal platelet functions are contraindicated, as are a number of conditions, such as: ! Cancer ! Thrombocytopenia ! Hypofibrinogenaemia ! Sepsis ! Acute infections ! Chronic liver pathology ! Anti-coagulation therapy ! Chemotherapy ! Aspirin and vitamin E therapy
HOW DOES PRP WORK? Activation of growth factors play a role in a number of important processes including: cell division, migration and differentiation, protein expression, enzyme production; angiogenesis (new blood vessel growth) stimulation and cellular proliferation for wound healing. Growth factors also affect the production and the degradation of the extra cellular matrix, and by being chemotactic for
IMPORTANT GROWTH FACTORS (GF) PRODUCED BY PLATELETS:
! ! ! ! ! !
Platelet derived GF (PDGF – aa, bb and ab) – promotes synthesis of extracellular matrix. Transforming GF (TGF – alpha and beta) – stimulates DNA and collagen. Insulin like GF (IGF – I and II) – helps the proliferation and differentiation of cells. Epidermal GF (EGF) – increases growth of epidermal cells and angiogenesis. Vascular Endothelial GF (VEGF) – helps with angiogenesis and chemo attraction of osteblasts. The platelets also produce something called cell-adhesion molecules: you may have heard of some of them –fibrin, fibronectin and vitronectin.
While perhaps not all are totally useful in the skin, most play important roles in skin cell health with regeneration of aged and damaged skin and hypodermal tissue. Plasma also contains cells, which stimulate the micro-vascularisation, which is important for the supply of nutrients and removal of waste products. From the above list you can easily see the multitude of benefits that PRP can provide to the skin. One of the interesting things about PRP is that the pH reduces to 6.5-6.7 down from the usual whole blood pH of 7.0-7.2. It is thought that this alkaline state provides an antimicrobial protection, in part why infection is very rare with this type of procedure. PRP contains about four times the amount of platelet concentration of whole blood – some 100,000 platelets per mm3. While not definitively proven, the PRP helps with cellular communication as the platelets also contain a host of signalisation molecules like CD9, 31, 41, 42,51 and others. The main effects of using PRP in cosmetic enhancement are tissue regeneration and rejuvenation, including new collagenesis and vascularisation, resulting in extra cellular matrix formation. Patients start to see improvement from 2-3 weeks. The skin feels moist and a thicker texture becomes evident. Collagen takes three months to mature. Therefore results continue to improve over this time. Treatment protocol is 2-3 treatments at 4-6 weeks apart; however, chronological ageing still needs to be considered, with possible maintenance treatments being introduced at six to 12- months from the initial treatments. There are many applications of PRP outside of cosmetic medicine. It has also been used for Cardio-Vascular and Orthopaedic surgery, Gastro-Enterology and Urology, MaxilloFacial and Dental surgery. APJ 53
EVIDENCE THAT PRP REALLY DOES WORK The World Anti-Doping Agency (WADA) meeting on September 19, 2009 has added intramuscular injections of PRP treatments on the List of Prohibited Substances and Methods, effective January 1, 2010, which will bring a two- year ban from playing competitive sports if a player is found using PRP. Personally I am not sure how the WADA will prove that a sportsperson has had this treatment. It will be very difficult as it is of course autologous and not in any way a ‘foreign body’. The ban of PRP is not total as it will affect intramuscular injections only, while other administration routes would require a Declaration of Use in accordance with the International Standards for Therapeutic Use Exemptions (TUE). The TUE exists as some of the listed banned substances are in fact used for medical reasons, and if this is the case, then an exception may apply. There are thee major criteria for obtaining a TUE and other forms of PRP administration (not intramuscular) require a TUE. One of the exception criteria is that ‘the therapeutic use of the substance would not produce significant enhancement of performance’. The defence would be that it has not produced such an effect, merely restored the athlete to ‘normal functioning’. If you’re interested in competitive sports or just interested to see what is banned internationally then the prohibited list of substances is a nine-page document and can be found at: Http://www.wada-ama.org/rtecontent/document/ 2010_Prohibited_List_FINAL_EN_Web.pdf APJ 54
IN CONCLUSION Hopefully this article has provided information to help you when your clients ask you for your thoughts on what is available regarding dermal fillers. PRP is a cost-effective addition to the array of skin rejuvenation medical treatments on the market and the individual would, of course, need a consultation to identify what is the best available for the individual concerned. As previously mentioned, this is not for everyone, yet that could be said for each of the dermal- filler categories. Terry is known as a Master Aesthetician in Advanced Clinical Aesthetics and lectures at medical and aesthetic conferences, both in Australia and internationally, while also being an educationalist in the development of quality assurance learning. He is also a consultant in legislative compliance requirements within the vocational education and training environment. Terry holds membership with the Australasian Academy of Anti-Aging Medicine (A5M), Australian Society of Cosmetic Chemists, Australian Institute of Training and Development and the Australian Institute of Management among others. He can be contacted on 0414 483 758.
Why introduce LED into your treatment menu? Of all the treatments that we are offering our clients photodynamic therapy would have to be the most popular and one that is gaining a great deal of support for credible results. There is now a great body of scientific validation (over 2,000 scientific papers) that support the benefits on the skin and body from photo-modulated technologies, not only for skin improvement and skin rejuvenation, but also for other wellness benefits. While laser and IPL offer excellent results they do carry a certain level of risk without correct training. On the other hand, light emitting diode, better known as LED therapy, is fast gaining acceptance for its excellent results without the same challenges and risks. The infrared light produced by LED lamps, aka photo rejuvenation, stimulates fibroblast cell activity in the skin, which increases the production of collagen and elastin â&#x20AC;&#x201D; the proteins responsible for the skin's tone and elasticity.
IS LED LIGHT TREATMENT PAINFUL? Application of LED light feels comfortable and relaxing. It is gentle, painless, non-invasive and non-ablative. There is no "down time" after treatment. It is suitable for any age, skin colour and skin type, and can be used on any area of the body (face, neck, chest, arms, hands, legs, etc). Furthermore, it is a relatively inexpensive technology making it affordable for every salon.
WHAT ARE THE BENEFITS OF RED LED LIGHT THERAPY ON THE SKIN? As LED targets the dermis and beyond it stimulates cellular activity stimulating fibroblasts for the purpose of creating collagen and elastin production. As a result improvement can be gain from a variety of skin types and conditions including: ! Ageing skin ! Lines and wrinkles are softened ! Improvement in circulation ! Increased moisture and radiance of the skin ! Accelerated skin repair ! Improved elasticity and skin texture ! The appearance of hyperpigmantation, age spots and freckles are minimised ! Acne and blemishes benefit from red LED light and it stimulates the skinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s natural healing process. The use of red LED has instantaneous and long-term effect. Continued use can lead to long-term improvement in wrinkles and some skin tightening. As LED offers a gentle and relaxing treatment it can be introduced after microdermabrasion, iontophoresis and even IPL. It is easy to apply, and as it does not touch the face it has a low level of maintenance. When combined with other technologies it further enhances their result and acts synergistically to support cellular activity and skin renewal.
For further details on LED and other technologies contact DenVega on 1300 826 633. APJ 55
cosmetic tattoo Cosmetic tattooing services are also a lucrative addition to a medical clinic; medical spa and the salon’s bottom line as services that offer individuals the ability to wake up in the morning with a portion of their make-up already applied. Eyebrows for the thinning brow, eyeliner for the accent to the eyes and lips with full colour will give you an idea of a few of the benefits it provides. My commitment has always been to offer the best possible training to my students, past and present. My passion for cosmetic tattooing often takes me internationally, where I can access the very latest in cosmetic tattoo techniques and so that I can stay up-to-date with global trends and advances. In this profession a through understanding of colour and how it interacts in the skin is paramount to achieve a natural and integrated finish. The end result should be one that looks like an extension of your client’s colouring and not an addition that has gone horribly wrong – such as eyebrows that turn grey over time or are so matt they look artificial. If you have not mastered this technique please consider booking in for a refresher course as this is an area that I can help you perfect.
COLOUR PERFECTION During our first day of training we were taught some advanced techniques in colour blending and application to deliver a true warm tone that is totally natural-looking. With eyebrows for instance, the colour was perfectly delivered into the skin and allowed to adapt and intergrade within the tissue. This was then followed by three-dimensional work that included soft hairstrokes, giving the eyebrow a totally natural finish.
New Advances in COSMETIC TATTOO TECHNIQUES by Faye Rielly Principal of AIPM I have just returned from a Cosmetic Tattoo Conference in Toronto, Canada, where I attended an advanced training course with Pat Gauthier from the Micropigmentation Centre. The course involved advanced colour techniques and a new cosmetic tattooing procedure for a more natural and effective result with nipple areola using a 3-D technique. The Micropigmentation Centre is heavily involved with Cosmetic and Reconstructive Plastic Surgeons and their societies and they have worked closely together to identify and develop colours and techniques that can offer a superior result following reconstructive surgeons for breast restoration after a mastectomy. Cosmetic tattooing for medical applications allows for the camouflaging and masking of certain scars plus the repigmentation of the areola for post breast reconstruction surgery.
Before Nipple Areola APJ 56
Cosmetic tattooing has now globally moved to incorporating the 3-D technique in several procedures. There was some interesting information presented, much of which I know, but it reinforced what I was doing and confirmed to me that I was on the right track.
3-D NIPPLE AREOLA The second day covered advanced techniques in creating a totally natural-looking nipple areola. The three-dimensional technique allowed us to go from a total bald breast to a nipple that had excellent assimilation to the other nipple. We were introduced to new specialised colours that work amazingly well for camouflage work and in particular for nipple areola. To achieve these results we worked with flat needles rather than clusters.
SHADOW WORK As three-dimensional shading is an area that I specialise in I was invited to teach in Canada next year with over 20 students attending, which I am really looking forward to.
After Nipple Areola
Shadow work is highly effective in improving the eyes. The traditional method is performing eyeliner with black or brown, which can give a great effect. However, adding a highlighter as a stage two to this procedure can create a really stunning effect. This is achieved with three different colours and looks fabulous in opening up a younger eye that is a little hooded, or a more
mature face that has deep set eyes as it can really enhance them making them look more youthful and alive.
HOW DOES THIS PROCEDURE WORK? First you create the eyeliner with the Before Full Lips deeper colour. This must then be allowed to stabilise and heal completely. Then a beige liner is applied that gives the eye contrast and at the same time a softer, more natural look. The end result is very stunning, particularly with dark eyes.
After Full Lips
THE BENEFITS As the focus on all things anti-ageing is progressively gaining consumer interest, so cosmetic tattooing is a procedure you should seriously consider to include in your services. In Canada, the number of cosmetic tattooists is constantly growing, as consumers are becoming more aware of the antiageing benefit that these procedures offer. Likewise the demand here in Australia is also on the increase. The benefits offered through cosmetic tattooing include: ! Improving the definition of features ! Correcting abnormalities or asymmetry ! Achieving better feature balance ! Achieving a more lifted, younger look ! Collagen attenuation We all know that needling contributes to stimulating collagen and improving fine lines, and wrinkles. As cosmetic tattooing is delivered through a needling procedure it offers dual benefits of improving colour definition as well as stimulating collagen, thus offering an anti-ageing benefit. For example lips that have gained colour definition as well as collagen stimulation can actually look 10 years younger.
specialised in one-on-one training we can tailor the training to your needs. If you would like to undertake an Advanced Course in Nipple Areola and learn the new 3-D technique this will take one full day. This technique will allow you to perform this procedure quicker, with better results and you will be able to
Before Eyebrow
INITIATION DAY - EVALUATING YOUR OPTIONS We understand that making a decision to undertake training in cosmetic tattooing is a major consideration and often, potential students are concerned as to whether they have what it takes to take this on. This is why at the Australian Institute of Permanent Makeup we are introducing an INITIATION DAY. This is a one- day program that allows you to be initiated into the world of Cosmetic Tattoo so that you can make an informed decision as to whether you would like to take on the full training program. This day includes training on symmetry and colour and will give you the opportunity to be assessed for your drawing skills and allows you to practise certain procedures to determine your aptitude to the profession. It is your safety net that allows you to experience what is required prior to undertaking the complete training. If you would like to enrol in our 2010 Initiation Day program please phone or email us for further details.
REFRESHER COURSES As new information and technologies come to light, so practitioner can choose to specialise in their area of interest and expertise. Cosmetic Tattoo is no different. If you are a qualified Cosmetic Tattooist and would like to continue to perfect your techniques and become more specialised in what you are doing then why not undertake one of our refresher courses? As we
After Eyebrow achieve this more easily than the traditional method. We also encourage you to consider the three dimensional techniques for eyes and eyebrows as this training will allow you to bring your results to a much higher standard of finish. The future of Cosmetic Tattooing has never looked better. Let us help you continue to grow your business through these new and exciting techniques.
For further details please contact the Australian Institute of Permanent Makeup Ph: 07 5530 5411 Email: abeautyconcepts@bigpond.com Before Eyeliner
After Eyeliner APJ 57
INTRODUCING
gis
f Therape ter o uti c
ods
1
2
Re
Go
Austra lia n
The solution to roll away wrinkles and scars is here (ART ) #1586 G
Collagen Induction Therapy (CIT) Dermaroller™ - Collagen Induction Therapy procedure works by stimulating your own body’s collagen. Your body will start to naturally regenerate the skin, working below the surface in the dermis. New skin cells are generated & blood supply is enhanced. It will only take up to 6 weeks before visible signs of regeneration are seen & the process will continue over the following months, providing you with a gradual & long lasting enhancement.
BEFORE
AFTER
BEFORE
AFTER
BEFORE
AFTER
Scar Reduction Therapy (SRT) Dermaroller™ - Scar Reduction Therapy procedure works by releasing old fibrotic scar tissue deep within the skin. Scar tissue is what creates visible scars on the skin’s surface. The treatment will repair the skin naturally, working below the surface in the dermis. This takes time as new collagen & elastin fibres are formed, softening scars, generating new skin cells & enhancing blood supply. Results can be seen within 6 weeks, and a total of 70-80% improvement of scars.
Homecare Dermaroller displayed. Photos shown are results from the Medical Dermaroller treatment.
DISTRIBUTED BY:
Clinic Care 1300 799 709 CC-0161-DermaAd_PB_TGA_v1.indd 1
2/12/09 6:38:41 PM
LEADING THE WAY IN COSMETIC TATTOO EDUCATION
Certificate courses in ! Eyebrows ! Eyeliner Extension ! Upper & Lower Eyeliners ! Eyelash Enhancement ! Full Lip ! Lip-line & Lip-blend ! Beauty spot & Blush ! Advanced Paramedical ! Scar camouflage ! Vitiligo Re-pigmentation ! Nipple Areola Creation ! Nipple Areola Re-pigmentation ! Correction colouration ! Electronic colour removal ! Feature reconstruction ! Hair imitation ! Scar relaxation ! Multitrepannic collagen actuation ! Non-Laser Tattoo Removal (Face & Body) ! Training Mapped to WRB31A and above
Faye Rielly â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Principal
One-On-One Training (For Outstanding Graduates)
Sole Authorised Australasian Mei-cha Educator & Distributor MEI-CHA: A WORLD PIONEER IN COSMETIC TATTOO INNOVATIONS & SAFETY
Phone: (07) 5530 5411 Fax: Email: abeautyconcepts@bigpond.com
(07) 5530 7411 Web: www.farren.com.au
P.O. Box 1606 Mudgeeraba 4213
equipment technology credible and longerlasting results are now possible. Whether used alone or combined with other devices in a treatment procedure, microcurrent still holds its ground as a credible and very useful technology that targets not only the skin, but more importantly the muscles. In this article Paula Frewin, Director and Educator for the Body Clinic, presents information that supports why this technology will continue to have a place in the contemporary salon and clinic. Microcurrent has been used globally in the aesthetic industry for approximately 20 years, so as such itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s not considered as anything new. However, in recent years it has benefited considerably from new advancements in both computer and electronic technology.
Microcurrent makes resurgence as a credible technology by Paula Frewin It has been over 15 years since microcurrent first made its entrance into the Australian aesthetic industry. As other technologies followed over the years, in some instances it was neglected in favour of the new arrivals. Currently the aesthetic industry has been inundated with an array of diverse equipment, each one offering different capabilities and treatment outcomes. But the new direction now advocates that integration offers the best possible solution for skin renewal and regeneration. Skilfully combined, some
APJ 60
Systems are now smaller, with more up-market equipment that are battery powered and offer fully integrated computerised treatment programs that utilise sequencing technology. These are now able to facilitate maximum lift and product penetration, giving more significant, long-lasting results in comparison to their predecessors.
WHAT IS MICROCURRENT AND HOW DOES IT WORK?
Originally developed in the U.S. in the late 1980s, microcurrent therapy was used to treat facial weakness in victims of Bellâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Palsy and strokes, muscular injuries (especially for athletes), and was also used by physiotherapists for pain relief (TENS machines). Since the early 1990s microcurrent has been used for cosmetic purposes and has been termed the non-surgical facelift, simply because of its immediate effects on the skin and muscles, offering an alternative to more invasive procedures.
Microcurrents are gentl e waveforms that match the innate electrical activity of the body. Research has revealed that they i n c r e a s e l e v e l s o f AT P (adenosine Tri-phosphate) in the body and free amino acids in injured cells. These currents also promote ion transfer through cell membranes and, as we know, all of these factors can accelerate cellular repair.
WAVEFORM Electricity is like water – it travels in waves. The typical waveform used in microcurrent devices is called envelope waveform because it has four distinguished sides and looks like an envelope. The waveforms vary in length of time that they allow the current to flow. Gentle has the longest duration that the current can flow and the pulse waveform has the shortest duration of current flow (see diagram).
Microcurrent systems use a combination of different wave shapes, hertz and current that are simultaneously directed through single or dual-tipped probes into the muscle or skin tissue. Their activity includes: 1. Increase blood flow As people age, the number and size of the capillaries supplying oxygen and vital nutrients to the dermis decrease, causing the cells of the skin to gradually begin to diminish in size and function. By stimulating blood flow the skin is re-energised. 2. Stimulate cellular activity Microcurrent stimulates and speeds up the rate at which the skin produces its own connective tissue fibres, as well as collagen and elastin, therefore increasing the supportive framework of the dermis. 3. Stimulate ATP It stimulates and speeds up the rate at which the body produces its muscle protein, adenosine triphosphate synthesis, reducing the ageing effect on muscle tissue and muscle atrophy. As people progress in age the skin starts to deteriorate due to a number of issues, including gravity, genetics, poor skincare, sun exposure, poor nutrition and stress. Additionally, the 30 facial muscles attached directly below the skin’s surface lose their elasticity, become weaker and over time start to sag. This makes it more difficult for the muscles to support the skin covering them, and finally results in the appearance of wrinkles, creases and folds. 4. Re-educating muscles Microcurrent re-sculpt and re-educate the muscle tissue by lengthening or shortening as necessary utilising the Golgi Tendon Organ Technique (which we will explain in greater detail later). Repeated expressions result in a strengthening and shortening of contractive muscles and a weakening and stretching of the distended muscles, once again creating those ever-dreaded wrinkles and creases. To assist you to understand microcurrent I will attempt to keep my information on a basic level and explain how this current penetrates deep into the skin and muscles, how long that penetration is maintained, and the effect it has on the skin and muscles, which rely on three things: ! Waveform ! Frequency/Hertz ! Current (Amperage)
IN GENERAL, MICROCURRENT SYSTEMS UTILISE FOUR MAJOR WAVEFORMS: 1. Gentle Waveform With this waveform the current peaks slowly, is maintained at its peak for a longer period of time than other waveforms, and slowly decreases. This waveform is usually used to ‘re-sculpt’ and ‘reeducate’ the deep muscle layer and generally works at a lower frequency. 2. Mild Waveform This waveform, as compared to the gentle waveform, rises to its peak quicker, maintains its peak for a shorter duration of time and decreases quicker. This waveform is usually used to ‘resculpt’ and ‘re-educate’ the more superficial muscle layer, and works at a higher level of current. 3. Sharp Waveform This waveform peaks almost instantly, maintains its peak for the same length of time as the mild waveform and decreases as instantly as it raised. This waveform is usually used to speed up the rate at which the skin produces its own connective tissue, increases blood circulation and helps eliminate the toxins in the skin through lymphatic drainage. 4. Pulse Waveform This waveform, much like the sharp waveform, peaks almost instantly, however, its peak is maintained for a much shorter time and again decreases as instantly as it raised. This waveform is usually used for product penetration, to increase blood circulation and to help eliminate the toxins in the skin through lymphatic drainage.
FREQUENCY/HERTZ Hertz refers to the number of electrical impulses per second. Understanding the frequency or hertz is the key to a successful non-surgical facelift utilising microcurrent. The frequency is carried and controlled by the waveform to reach varied depths of penetration, and frequency will have a different effect on skin than muscle. CURRENT (UA. AMPERAGE) Refers to the flow of electrons along a conductor, in this case with microcurrent that uses the probes to measure the amperage. Amperage is the number of electrons that pass a given point within one second. The longer you apply the current the further it will travel.
APJ 61
As we have already discussed, the high-end microcurrent equipment usually offers fully computerised pre-programmed systems removing these areas of doubt. If utilising a manual system it is imperative that you have a full understanding of microcurrent, waveforms, frequency and current and that continued careful monitoring is maintained at all times. A commonly asked question is “Is there a difference between microcurrent systems and non-surgical facelift systems?” The answer is yes and no. No, due to its versatility, as microcurrent is used to resculpt and re-educate muscle and muscle tissue therefore it is classed as a non-surgical facelift system. And yes because, in general, the principle technique in how microcurrent systems and E.M.S systems ‘re-sculpt’ and ‘re-educate’ the muscles and muscle tissue is totally different. Many of us when thinking of non-surgical facelift conjure images of electrodes or pads being placed on insertion and exertion points of the face and neck muscles and the equipment being turned up to a point that it is ‘bearable’… remember no gain without pain. These systems are in effect classed as E.M.S. (electro-muscle stimulation) machines. They use a higher level of current (generally requiring a 240 volt supply) and the principle technique that they work under is this strong current used to involuntary force repeated muscular contraction and expansion. This leads to a shortening and thickening of the muscle tissue, which gives a ‘lifted’ effect. However, true microcurrent/non-surgical facelift systems work on the Golgi Tendon Organ Technique (which we touched on earlier when mentioning muscle re-sculpting and re-educating). The Golgi Tendon Organ Technique re-educates the muscle by changing the brain’s perceived length of the muscle by either shortening or lengthening the muscle according to its position. This technique is achieved by placing the probes (and therefore applying the current) to the nerve endings located at the musclotendonous junction and either moving the probes away from each other (lengthening the muscle) or bringing the probes towards each other (shortening the muscle). This technique does not therefore create involuntary, forced, repeated muscular contraction and expansion, and these treatments are completely painless! To illustrate, let’s say we are presented with a client that has lines in the forehead and lower jowl sag. The lines in the forehead have appeared because through continual facial expression the muscle has shortened. Using the G.T.O. Technique we will lengthen this muscle, putting it back into its original position. The lower jowl sag has appeared due to gravity and muscle atrophy. Using the G.T.O. Technique, we will shorten this muscle, thus creating a lifting effect. So, what are the results that can be expected from a microcurrent treatment?
! ! ! ! APJ 62
A significant reduction in fine lines and wrinkles A softening of the deeper lines A firming of skin and muscle tissue A significant increase of oxygenated blood in the dermis, muscle and skin tissue
! ! ! !
A significant increase in the production of collagen and elastin Increased skin smoothness A significant increase in the skin’s hydration A significant increase in muscle tone
How often do you need a treatment to achieve these results? You will see results from the very first treatment. However, microcurrent is progressive and in general, a course of 8-14 treatments is usually recommended. The exact number of treatments required will depend upon the muscle tone, skin type and condition and what other services are being conducted within the treatment package. It is recommended that when embarking on a series of microcurrent treatments that you commence with two treatments per week for the first three weeks. After this time you can revert to weekly treatments. Once a course of treatments has been completed a maintenance treatment once every 5/6 weeks is recommended. Results, of course, will depend on whether the treatment is being used in conjunction with other services, the client’s commitment to the program, maintaining a good skincare regime at home, and the all-important factor of moderation in smoking, alcohol, sun exposure and a reasonably well-balanced diet.
Visible
Results in
Bio-Synthesis High power LED Light System Make light work of increasing your profits Upgrade any treatment, sell by the minute. Has 3 times the power. Gives 3 times the result at a third of the price of other comparative LED systems. Multi-coloured head, inbuilt light pulsing system. Touch screen control.
7 mins
“The Bio-Synthesis has enabled us to deliver the more intense results that our clients demand and we have been able to upsell 80% of treatments because of this equipment and the machine was paid off within 3 months”. Mary-Anne Rophie House Day Spa - Rockhampton
“Our focus is the deeper action treatments and working at the cellular level to give our clients real results. The Bio-Synthesis certainly gives us the results we demand”. Elizabeth - Skin Revision - Perth
BONUS UPGRADE
To take your salon to the next level!
FREE
Bio-Ultimate Face microcurrent system fully integrated computerised system that utilises Suzuki Sequencing for maximum lift and product penetration.
CALL NOW T 07 3822 6606 To take advantage of our $4,995.00 FREE BONUS UPGRADE
Body Clinic (Australia) Pty Ltd
27 Chesterfield Cres Wellington Pt QLD 4160 T 07 3822 6606 F 07 3822 6605 www.bodyclinic.com.au
nutrition
Nutrients for Health, Vitality and Longevity Bill Anton Bsc. (Hons), PhD For centuries man has been obsessed with finding the elusive “Fountain of Youth”. Modern-day medical science has come a long way in helping us understand why and how we age. Some people will age faster than others, some will suffer from chronic debilitating diseases associated with getting old and some won’t. As we age the body becomes more catabolic (breakdown) and less anabolic (build-up and repair). When we look at the pathology and biochemistry of ageing we realise that the common denominators with ageing are: Inflammation, depletion and wear and tear. Can we address these at a genetic level with nutrients and supplements that will down-regulate or up-regulate genetic expression or even up-regulate inhibitor genes? Yes, this technology and knowledge now exists. We now have the tools to assess the activity of pharmaceuticals, nutrients and chemicals directly on a genetic level and to measure genetic expression. Using the scope of genomics we can tailor supplements and assess the individual ingredients as well as optimum synergistic effect to facilitate better bioavailability and efficacy.
NUTRIGENOMICS: DIETARY CONTROL OF GENETIC EXPRESSION The laws of genetic inheritance were first described in the mid19th century. From that time practically until the present we tended to think of genes as permanent fixtures of each individual – we get our genes from our parents and they define our traits, such as hair and eye colour. By the early 20th century it was clear that genes could specify, or “code for” unhealthy traits as well. But it has only been within the past two decades
APJ 64
that we have come to understand just how dynamic our genes really are. We now understand that while individual genes may be the simple equivalents of “blueprints” on our chromosomes that tell cells how to make specific enzymes and other proteins that define us, those genes are under exquisite control by a host of complex and interrelated systems collectively called transcription factors. Transcription factors may be thought of as general contractors that “order” production of necessary products built according to the genetic blueprints. And transcription factors, it turns out, are controlled by a host of molecular influences — including specific nutrients. The study of how these nutrients work to control the genes’ production levels is called nutrigenomics. According to acclaimed scientist Peter J. Gillies, PhD, “Nutrigenomics may provide the nutritional sciences with a molecular basis for positioning nutritional bioactives, functional foods, and designer diets to preemptively offset chronic disease”.
ANTIOXIDANTS Nutraceuticals that specifically address the body’s need for antioxidant defence and endogenous up-regulation of antioxidants and anti-oxidant enzymes may begin to provide support for the ageing process. Polyphenols such as Resveratrol and Grape Seed Extract (Oligoproanthocyanidins OPC) are powerful nutrients that act as antioxidants, protecting the body against the attacks of free radicals. An excess of free radicals (highly unstable molecules)
can cause widespread damage throughout the body, and can be triggered by stress, pollution, direct exposure to sunlight, an unbalanced diet, smoking and other factors.
Curcumin is a polyphenol present in the spice turmeric, first used by Indians over 3000 years ago in traditional Ayurvedic medicine that has been found to have remarkable antioxidative, immunomodulatory, proapoptotic and antiangiogenic properties. Curcumin is also found to increase detoxifying enzymes and promote healthy DNA function.
Studies of polyphenols show that they can maintain healthy HDL, blood pressure and blood glucose levels. A recent randomised, controlled clinical trial showed daily consumption of 30 mg of polyphenols can In a placebo-controlled study a combination of orally improve endothelial function, increase consumed and topically administered lutein produced formation of vasodilative nitric oxide, and help maintain healthy blood pressure levels. (1) numerous benefits for the skin. These included Polyphenols have also shown beneficial effects improvements in skin hydration, skin elasticity, and in protecting cellular DNA integrity concentration of superficial skin lipids. Lipid oxidation, throughout the body. (2)
INFLAMMATION
which leads to skin ageing, was also decreased.
Much of the misery of age-related conditions can be laid at the feet of inflammatory processes that presumably originally evolved for the preservation of our health. A lifetime of exposure to oxidation and inflammatory stimuli leaves us awash in molecules known as cytokines and chemokines, which are used by immune system cells to signal each other and react to potential threats. Long-term effects of these cytokines include increased tissue oxidation and further inflammation, which perpetuates the cycle and increases our risk for a myriad of chronic conditions. These inflammatory signalling molecules, of course, are the protein products of specific genes, and their production is regulated by transcription factors. Many nutrients help prevent or mitigate chronic disease either “upstream” in the process by preventing oxidation, or “downstream” by inhibiting the effects of cytokines once produced.
New studies have tied inflammation to overexpression of a protein molecule called nuclear factor-kappa B (NF-kappaB). NF-kappaB acts like a switch to turn on genes that produce the body’s inflammatory responses. Curcumin inhibits overexpression of NF-kappaB and also inhibits the metabolism of arachidonic acid, as well as activities of cyclooxygenase, lipoxygenas, and cytokines (interleukins and tumour necrosis factor).
CALORIE RESTRICTION AND LONGEVITY Studies in long-lived humans indicate definitive key predictors of longevity, include low levels of blood glucose and insulin, stable weight during middle age, stress management, positive outlook, regular physical activity and low body temperature. In 1929, scientists at Cornell University first discovered the lifeextending effects of caloric restriction in fish. Subsequent
APJ 65
studies have shown that consuming fewer calories, while simultaneously taking adequate vitamins and other nutrients, can increase the life span of everything from yeast, worms and fruit flies to mice, rats and dogs by up to 40%. (3) (4) In 2006, researchers announced the results of a six-month study of the effects of a calorie-restriction diet in humans. By restricting food intake to as little as 890 calories a day, maintained for six months, researchers discovered that two key biomarkers of longevity (fasting insulin level and body temperature) decreased after prolonged calorie restriction. (5) Exciting research suggests that it may be possible to capture some of the life-enhancing benefits of caloric restriction through readily available resveratrol supplements. Resveratrol shows tremendous promise in extending life span and fighting the diseases associated with ageing, such as cancer and heart disease.
TARGETED PROTECTION FOR AGE-RELATED CONDITIONS For comprehensive support for the ageing process, nutraceuticals can assist by addressing fundamental causes of ageing (some highlighted above), as well as support specific areas of known degeneration during the ageing process. This may include support for cardiovascular health, metabolic syndrome, thyroid and hormonal health as well as skin support.
EYE HEALTH Of the five human senses, vision is perhaps the most precious of all, as it allows us to see and navigate the world around us. With each passing year, however, adults become more likely to develop vision-robbing conditions such as macular degeneration and cataracts. Macular degeneration can lead to permanent blindness. Zeaxanthin, lutein and meso-zeaxanthin offer much-needed structural support for the ageing macula. Derived from colorful fruits and vegetables, lutein and zeaxanthin protect delicate eye tissues from the dangers of oxidative stress and high-energy blue light. Unlike lutein and zeaxanthin, meso-zeaxanthin is not found in the diet, but is usually converted in the retina from ingested lutein. (6) The Lutein Antioxidant Supplementation Trial (LAST) of 2004 showed that supplementing with lutein and other nutrients improved the signs and symptoms of macular degeneration, and after one year of supplementation improved macular pigment density, as well as improvements in various aspects of visual function, including contrast sensitivity and visual acuity, were seen. (7)
SKIN HEALTH Zeaxanthin and lutein, as well as betacarotene may similarly protect the skin against detrimental age-related changes, including reduced flexibility, hydration and lipid content. In a placebo-controlled study a combination of orally consumed and topically administered lutein produced numerous benefits for the skin. These included improvements in skin hydration, skin elasticity and concentration of superficial skin lipids. Lipid oxidation, which leads to skin ageing, was also decreased. Notably, it was lutein supplements — rather than intake of lutein from food sources — that led to improvements in the skin’s youthfulness.
CARDIOVASCULAR SUPPORT In an 18-month Atherosclerosis Study, scientists tracked 573 APJ 66
middle-aged men and women who were free of symptomatic cardiovascular disease. Subjects with higher baseline blood levels of zeaxanthin and lutein demonstrated a decrease in carotid intima-media thickness at the study’s completion. Since increased carotid intima-media thickness signifies the progression of atherosclerotic disease, these findings suggest that zeaxanthin and lutein helped protect against early atherosclerosis. (8) Researchers speculate that the antioxidant effects of zeaxanthin and lutein are likely responsible for their cardioprotective effects. Resveratrol, pomegranate and polyphenols from grapeseed also show significant potential in protecting from cardiovascular damage. Antioxidants and anti-inflammatory nutrients combine well with B vitamins for support of energy production, vitamin K and boron for bone support and herbs such as Brahmi and Ginkgo for cognitive support. With new knowledge and continued research in nutrigenomics, nutraceuticals can be formulated to specifically target aspects of ageing and prevention of chronic disease.
REFERENCES 1. Effects of Low Habitual Cocoa intake on Blood Pressure and Bioactive Nitric Oxide: A Randomized Controlled Trial. Taubert, D. 2007, JAMA, Vol. 298, pp. 49 - 60. 2. The green tea, a good choice for cardiovascular disease prevention? Townsend, PA. 4, s.l. : 380 - 394, 2004, Arch. Latinoam. Nutr., Vol. 54. 3. Requirement of NAD and SIR2 for life span extension by calorie restriction in Saccharomyces cerevisiae. Lin, SJ., Defossez, PA., Guarente, L. 5487, 2000, Science, Vol. 289, pp. 2126-8. 4. Calorie restriction in rhesus monkeys. Mattison, JA., Lane, MA., Roth, GS., Ingram, DK. 1-2, 2003, Exp Gerontol, Vol. 38, pp. 35-46. 5. Effect of 6 month calorie restriction on biomarkers of longevity, metabolic adaptation, and oxidative stress in overweight individuals: a randomized controlled trial. Heilbronn, LK., Frisard, MI., et al. 13, 2006, JAMA, Vol. 295, pp. 1539-48. 6. Stereochemistry of the human macular carotenoids. . Bone, RA., Landrum, JT., Hime, GW., et al. 6, 1993, Invest. Ophthalmol. Vis. Sci., Vol. 34, pp. 2033-40. 7. Double masked, placebo controlled, randomixed trial of lutein and antioxidant supplementation in the intervention of atrophic agerelated macular degeneration: The Veterans LAST study. Richer, S., Stiles, W., Statkute, L., et al. 4, 2004, Optometry, Vol. 75, pp. 216-30. 8. Progression of carotid intima-media thickness and plasma antioxidants: the Los Angeles Atherosclerosis Study. Dwyer, JH., et al. 2, 2004, Arterioscler Thromb Vasc Biol., Vol. 24, pp. 313-9.
Bill Anton, Bsc.(Hons), PHD, ABAARM, AACNEM is the Chairman of the AustralAsian Academy of Anti-Ageing Medicine (A5M) and an A4M board-certified Diplomate of Anti-Ageing Medicine. He has been practising Anti-Ageing Medicine for over 15 years and has assisted in promoting the field of Anti-Ageing Medicine throughout the world. He has been instrumental in establishing a number of serum, urine and saliva hormone test panels and profiles for Integrative, Functional and Anti-Ageing Medicine. Currently, Bill Anton consults as a clinical and nutritional research biochemist for PathLab/ Age Diagnostic Laboratories and serves as the current Medical Research Director of LifeSource Anti-Ageing clinics in Melbourne. He is an ESAAM (European Society of Anti-Ageing Medicine) scientific board member and a board member of the International Hormone Society. Formerly, he was a Senior Lecturer and Consultant in Integrative Medicine and the coordinator of the course in Anti-Ageing Medicine at Swinburne University, Graduate School of Medicine, Melbourne, Victoria. Bill Anton is also on the APAN National Advisory Council. He is based in Melbourne and can be contacted on 03 9813 0439 or email: enquiries@a5m.net
His and her
SKINCARE! TAKE GOOD CARE OF YOUR PRECIOUS SKIN WITH HEAD TO TOE TREATMENTS AND PRODUCTS FOR MEN AND WOMEN FROM MADAME KORNER
BENEFITS TO YOU, THE BEAUTY THERAPIST • Products formulated and manufactured in Australia from the finest natural ingredients the world has to offer • Kind to your precious skin and has not been tested on animals • Originally designed for salon treatments • Proved so popular that it evolved into the home care range • Results achieved in the salon treatments will be maintained, prolonging the beneficial elements for the skin • Madame Korner’s classic Skin Care range is recognised for its integrity and commitment to your skin’s wellbeing.
Well over 100% profitability on all products Opening orders customised for individual salons or freelance operators Free product education • Affordable boutique products
S y d n e y 02 9518 9979 One Union Street Pyrmont
www.madamekorner.com
corporate clients that has confirmed that clients are prepared to pay up to 20 per cent more for a service that can assure them of punctuality. Nothing is more irritating than having to wait an extensive period of time because your therapist or doctor is running late, even more so for the corporate client. Corporate and professional people are always on the run and their time is very valuable. They live with tight schedules and in order to achieve their goals and targets they need to incorporate a great deal into their day. For them, time could well mean money. Sitting waiting for lengthy periods of time can be quite agitating to them. The importance of punctuality on the job is often overlooked. Punctuality reflects on your image as a professional. Staff who can complete their tasks on time are considered a more profitable investment for employers and more professional to the client. It is therefore not an exaggeration that it is an important job skill that will contribute to the success of the business and the appreciation of the clients, especially the corporate client.
THE VIRTUES OF PUNCTUALITY 1. Being on time for an appointment or for providing a service shows that you are considerate of the person with whom you have an appointment with. It is considered as a sign of respect. Your clients and particularly your corporate clients, like to be considered as important. In business, arriving late for an appointment is considered as tardy or rude and this is very much the interpretation that a corporate client will give to you being late, because this is how they are conditioned to think about it. Punctuality shows you can be counted on and that you are professional in your dealings with others. It adds to the perception that you respect both your work and your clients and that you consider them important. It adds value to the service provided.
COURTESY Courtesy is like the aroma that welcomes someone and makes them feel at ease and relaxed. Part of a salon’s training and induction program should incorporate the style of “meet and greet” that reflects the salon’s individual culture. It should reflect honour kindness, warmth and cheerfulness, and should ensure that it makes your guest comfortable and trusting of the environment they are entering.
How to Win the Corporate Client – Part III Punctuality, Courtesy and Communication by Tina Viney The corporate client is a lucrative one yet, sadly many have missed the opportunity for catering to their specific needs. This article is last of a three-part series that addresses how to effectively package and market to this group of clients. In our first issue of APJ we covered the issue of packages that incorporate the necessary elements of service that a corporate client is looking for. Following this in our second issue we discussed Understanding stress and how to address it in the salon. In this issue we will be covering the all-important topics of Punctuality, Courtesy and Communication.
PUNCTUALITY Despite the economic downturn new research has come to light
APJ 68
Depending on the style and ambience of your salon or clinic you may adopt a more formal, or otherwise, welcoming procedure. In all of my travels I take the opportunity of visiting salons or spas as part of my research. At the Fairmont Spa Resort in Canada my therapist greeted me as Mrs Viney, then introduced herself to me and orientated me with the surroundings and amenities in the changing rooms. However, once we were alone in the treatment room and in a more private environment before she commenced her treatment she asked me “may I call you Tina?” Of course I accommodated. This wonderful gesture was so courteous that it really set the tone for the rest of my time with her. It gave me a comforting feeling and I felt that if she was as
particular about the rest of her work as her courtesy, I was in the hands of a competent professional. Alas, courtesy and etiquette is sometimes a lost art. To further clarify what courtesy should reflect here is some definitions: ! Excellence in manner or social and professional conduct ! A respectful or considerate act of expression ! Polite gesture or remark ! Willingness of generosity in providing something needed ! Consent for what you are about to provide an individual Of course, the environment that I had entered was very formal and grand and this level of greeting and courtesy was necessary to complement the feeling of luxury that I was surrounded in. You may have a more organic or contemporary environment for which the tone can be a little less formal. However, we are talking about the corporate client and they are accustomed to a level of formality. Whatever your choice of greeting may be, it should not include statements such as love, darling, sweetie, etc, as these are private comments and inappropriate for an introductory greeting.
COMMUNICATION Poor communication would have to be the number one reason for conflict, disputes, misunderstanding and, in our business, for professional litigation. At a recent medical conference, a litigation lawyer cited that the number one reasons why clients sue a clinic or salon were unclear communication of treatment outcomes and unrealistic expectations. In fact, the Informed Consent forms are all about clear and precise communication about what the treatment you are offering will provide. The corporate client is used to reports, agreements and documentation that spell out what service or product is provided. This is standard practice in their professional environment. By providing appropriate Fact Sheets on your treatment and services you will assist your clients to clearly understand and appreciate what is on offer to them and will assist them to make informed decisions on what they are undertaking. As therapists we focus the majority of our energy on providing the best possible service to our clients. But do they really know what you are doing? A good suggestion is to summarise all procedures, giving a full description of what is provided with scientific evidence and testimonials. Before and after photos should also be made available to our clients so that they can gain an appreciation of what is on offer. These Fact Sheets can be made available in an attractive folder in the waiting room and can act as a way of introduction to your services, as well as act as your “silent advertisers”. However, these sheets must be expertly presented (no faded photocopies) and must reflect the level of professionalism that you want to be esteemed for. We often complain that our clients don’t always appreciate what is on offer to them. By making this documentation available to them it gives them the opportunity to better understand the full extent of the services we provide.
TOOLS OF COMMUNICATION Effective and professional communication should be an ongoing thing. It should be done in the most creative ways possible and it should utilise all our senses – sight, hearing, touch and smell.
Here are some recommendations: Posters – Make sure your most lucrative service is well displayed through a professional poster that attracts attention for further enquiries. ! Video – If your clinic or salon permits it, video clips that feature treatment provided make a great way of communicating to your clients while in the waiting room. ! Newsletters – In today’s email-friendly environment enewsletters are a great way of dropping a message to your client letting them know of the introduction of something new or the importance of a seasonal service they should be considering.. ! Fact Sheets – Each service you provide should have a Fact Sheet that allows the client to become familiar with everything on offer. A brochure with two lines under each service is inadequate for this purpose. Fact Sheets should provide scientific information, ingredient details, who will benefit from these services and a full list of benefits. This is the more detailed document that will help your client better understand what is on offer. ! Informed Consent – Services that pose any form of risk or require a high financial investment must be proceeded by the client reading and signing a Informed Consent Form. This document should clearly state the expectations, risks and the limitations of the treatment, so that the client can gain a realistic understanding of what to expect from the treatment. ! Verbal Communication – As much as all these tools are of great value they do not substitute the need for a thorough verbal communication with your client on costs involved and gaining their approval before performing a treatment. Always briefly discuss with your client what you are about to perform on them and any adjustments or changes you will be making to your client’s procedure and why, e.g. introducing a new skincare product, and why a new piece of equipment will be incorporated in your treatment. Of course, a Client Evaluation Form must always be filled out prior to the introduction of skin or body treatments so that any contra-indications and concerns can be identified. So often these are filled out as a formality and the therapist does not discuss them further with the client. This is clearly negligence and is often not appreciated by the client who is expecting the therapist to question them further for clarification. It can also lead to errors that can be costly.
!
As a therapist, learn to summarise what you offer your client in a professional manner. To gain the right format you can develop basic scripts that you can put together with the assistance of your staff as a collective staff exercise where each member has the opportunity to define a particular service in one minute, including within that time the key ingredients, benefits as well as, if appropriate, a call to action.
HUMAN CONTACT One of the most important yet powerful ways of respecting someone is through non-verbal communication - a sincere smile, a kind touch, a friendly eye contact, a caring nod and the tone of your voice when speaking to your client. As a final word, to create a memorable human experience with your client, make sure you finish their visit with one positive and sincere comment that will make them feel good about themselves. After all, we can all benefit from some positive reinforcement. By honouring your client through punctuality, courteous conduct and clear and precise communication you will leave a positive lasting impression on every client, corporate or otherwise, well after they have left your premises.
APJ 69
awards
What happened at Table 48? by Tina Viney I was in the middle of a pile of work that needed to be completed with deadlines way too soon for my liking, when the phone rang. It was Gay Wardle, who called to let me know that she had just won the Small Business Champions Awards (Beauty Services Category) for Queensland. Obviously we were both ecstatic and so she invited me to join her to attend the Finals at a Gala Dinner in Sydney on the 14th November, so how could I refuse such an opportunity. But before we venture into the night’s proceedings let me share with you a little about this incredible lady and about the Awards themselves. Gay Wardle is renowned within the aesthetics industry as one of Australia’s most innovative trainers and educators. She is the Australian trainer for the Pastiche Method of Advanced Skin Analysis as well as a trainer in IPL and other technologies, which she delivers across Australia and New Zealand. Gay’s trademark would definitely have to be her graciousness and generosity when imparting her knowledge to others. As the owner of two successful salons in Queensland she has allowed this connection to enable her to test and measure all of her training and procedures to ensure that they deliver optimum benefit in their application. Constantly growing and evolving, each year Gay has utilised her Award winnings (12 so far) to propel her to greater heights, continually implementing new and better ways of improving both her professional and business practices. This incredible lady amazes everyone with her energy, drive, commitment and her passion for education. To add to all this, she is currently pursuing a degree in Dermal Science with Victoria University.
SMALL BUSINESS CHAMPION AWARDS Having won several industry Awards Gay decided this year to enter the Australian Small Business Champion Awards. These awards are the only ones of their kind specifically dedicated to small business.
APJ 70
Numerous businesses from across Australia delivered an impressive array of entries, with national winners representing a broad range of industries from all States and Territories. Thirty-seven business categories, including two entrepreneur categories, were presented on the night. Categories included beauty, fashion, health and fitness services, educational services, manufacturing, several food categories and a variety of business services and trade services, just to name a few. The objective of these awards is to encourage and support excellence and to award achievement. The major sponsor of the Awards was the Commonwealth Bank, while other businesses such as QuickBooks, the Defence Reserves Support, CJT Design, Sabo Photography and “Real Estate News” Television also supported the event through sponsorship. On the 14th November State winners were invited to attend a Gala Dinner night for the announcement of the final National winners. The event was held at the Grand Ballroom at the Westin in Sydney and kicked off at 6.30pm with pre-dinner drinks. On arrival we were greeted by a buzz of over 680 guests who were chatting excitedly, while sipping champagne and cocktails, eagerly awaiting the night’s festivities. As women, of course the first thing we looked at was what other women were wearing. All the Y and X gens were in their very short mini skirts, while dispersed among their long, tanned legs and killer six-inch platform heels were several full-length evening gowns worn mainly by Baby Boomers, who still consider a night like this befitting of a certain formality. And talking of killer heels, I did attempt to try a pair, blissful at the thought of adding six inches to my below-average height, but what an experience. Wearing them felt that my head had suddenly entered the stratosphere, while walking in them was as awkward as if I was on stilts. As if this was not enough trauma I pictured myself falling in a pair of these monsters and contemplated how embarrassing that would be. I therefore decided to admire them on the young and the daring and settled for my standard three-inch stilettos.
THE WINNING TABLE Finally, the ballroom doors were opened and we were seated on table 48. After introducing ourselves and greeting everyone on
hard as we gained two National winners. The first one was John Temelli from Melbourne, who picked up the National Award for the Jewellers’ category. Further into the night Oscar Yildiz from Educall, also from Melbourne won the National Award for Educational Services. Educall is a unique educational business model that supports individuals and businesses by providing skills development and educational and training units to empower businesses and their staff to reach their goals.
With another trophy on her wall Gay’s star is reaching meteoric heights. She is truly a testament of what hard work, passion for learning, commitment and dedication can produce. Gay is a true mentor and a colleague we can all be proud of for the inspiration and integrity she brings to our industry. our table we proceeded to get to know them better. I was excited, but Gay appeared relaxed. In her usual modest manner she remarked, “Don’t get too excited, Tina, there are some strong contenders from other States, so I don’t think we will win the Nationals, but we can still have a good time”. As the night’s winners were announced, table 48 was cheering
With over 70 tables at the awards, table 48 was doing fantastically well. “It’s your turn, Gay,” I told her, “you are on the winners’ table.” Gay smiled and assured me that she was up against some wonderful spas and salons. Knowing how much work this lady puts into whatever she does, I was quietly confident that there would be a third winner on table 48. Finally, they came to the Beauty Services category. With a nerve-wrenching pause the MC ripped open the envelope and Skinology was declared the winner. Table 48 had more reasons for shouting and cheering. For a moment we had all become “one family” supporting one
APJ 71
chance of winning. As you can imagine, my article had to wait. As for John, I will remember him as my next wedding anniversary approaches for a nice commemorative piece of jewellery. With another trophy on her wall Gay’s star is reaching meteoric heights. She is truly a testament of what hard work, passion for learning, commitment and dedication can produce. Gay is a true mentor and a colleague we can all be proud of for the inspiration and integrity she brings to our industry. Gay was off to New Zealand the next day and is booked as the guest speaker on the 30th November at the APAN seminar in WA. Since writing this article the seminar was conducted in WA. All who attended were so appreciative of her knowledge and manner, and many left feeling totally energised and inspired by this incredible lady.
another and sharing with equal enthusiasm in each other’s success.
BEING AMONG THE WINNERS Elated by this incredible experience I had to take a photo of the winners to share with you. I also pursued Oscar to contribute to our publication by sharing some of his strategies with us, which he promised me he would do. The following week he phoned me to let me know that was running for Mayor and it was considered that he had a good APJ 72
All in all, it was a fabulous night. Once again I realised what a wonderful incentive that awards can be in helping motivate achievement, and no doubt an initiative that APAN will implement in the near future. I immensely enjoyed watching Gay again win another accolade for her hard work and her incredible spirit. I also enjoyed meeting some other wonderful “winners” and left with a head full of great ideas and a heart full of dreams. It’s what I call a successful evening of fun, networking and inspiration. For further information on the Small Business Champions Awards visit: http://www.precedent.net/champions/
skin formulations ingredients from decomposition or other alteration, while in the formula, ensuring that the active ingredient in question is delivered to the skin’s surface in a functional form. This type of targeted delivery may be very simple, such as the form that the base product takes. This base product is also known as the vehicle as it is the means by which the active ingredient is introduced to the skin. Entrapping an ingredient like ascorbic acid, the unstable form of Vitamin C, inside the oil-soluble portion of a water-in-oil emulsion is a form of “targeted delivery”. By keeping the water-soluble ascorbic acid within droplets of oil, the ascorbic acid is protected from oxygen in the air and will supposedly last long enough in the formula to be applied to the skin several months after the product is made. Another version of this form of ingredient protection are liposomes, lipid-skinned microbubbles that entrap active or performance ingredients and keep them separate from other ingredients in the skincare formulation. Then when you apply the product to the skin the liposomes burst, releasing their contents to mingle with other ingredients in the formula on the skin’s surface. Products containing liposomes are like having one formula housed within another. You get two formulas in one. For instance, low pH alpha hydroxy acids can be included in a neutral pH base when the AHA is protected by a liposome. The most common problem with liposomes is that most of them are soluble in the oil phase of an emulsion, and many cosmetic formulators don’t have a way to determine if the liposome remains intact throughout the product’s lifespan. You should never see “liposome” listed as an ingredient. Instead, look for the name of the material the liposome is made of. The three most popular materials are lecithin, phospholipid and phosphotidylcholine. The delivered ingredient
The Three Key Considerations in Skincare – Standardisation, Targeted Delivery Systems and Use-By Dates Rebecca James Gadberry As aesthetic practitioners we have the responsibility to understand not only the issue of ingredients of choice in the products we use and recommend, but also other considerations that affect their potency and efficacy. In this article, formulator Rebecca James Gadberry, president of YG Laboratories, sheds some light on three key issues: ! The standardisation of ingredients in a product ! Targeted delivery systems and how they work ! The implications of the “use-by date” APJ 1: There is much discussion about how products can perform better if they incorporate their active ingredients through a targeted delivery system. Can you explain the methods that fall under this category and what should we expect from them, as well as the latest developments in this area of cosmetic science? RJG: “Targeted delivery” has several meanings in the cosmetic industry. It can refer to the way certain ingredients protect other APJ 74
should be listed separately, and should be found farther down the ingredient list since there is more of the liposome material than what it is encapsulates. Another form of “targeted delivery” is using “assisting” ingredients to guide other ingredients into the skin’s barrier and beyond. The technology in this area is vast, so I will only discuss a few versions. Penetration enhancers, such as ethoxydiglycol and acetone, perform this task well, but they also punch holes in the skin’s barrier, increasing irritation and aggravating dry skin. Some liposomes are small enough to act as carriers, while Polypores and Microsponges both listed as alkyl methacrylates crosspolymer, are other forms of encapsulation used to surround an unstable or irritating ingredient, such as retinol or hydrogen peroxide. These encapsulates act like tiny sponges on the skin’s surface. Pressure or the skin’s heat cause the delivered material to slowly leak from the sponge, reducing irritation, because the ingredient is not released all at once.
Exposing these products to heat, while still in the jar can also cause ingredient leakage, inactivating the material and risking unnecessary irritation in the skin. Silanol – a member of the silicon family – u ses a method that does not need to encapsulate their ingredient passengers and therefore this problem is avoided. Instead, they are attached to the ingredient along a long chain resembling a backbone or spine. The ingredient protrudes from the chain like ribs. This connection protects the ingredient from oxidation of the rest of the formula. Once the combination of silanol and its passenger enter the skin, enzymes cut the material away, allowing it to work its magic, while the silanol is absorbed into dermal tissue. Since silanols are not separate ingredients, look for them to be included in the ingredient name. These are methylsilanol carboxymethyl or theophylline alginate found in cellulite products, while ascorbyl methylsilanol pectinate is a form of stabilised vitamin C. Polyolprepolymers, listed PEG8/SMDI copolymer when carrying water-soluble materials, and PPG-12/SMDI copolymer for oil- soluble ingredients. These not only attach to the ingredient to protect it in the formula and prevent oxidation, but they are used to target ingredient delivery into either the epidermis or dermis. Retinol delivery doubles in the epidermis and is four times higher in the dermis than when the ingredient alone is applied, while 2 per cent vitamin C is seven times higher, equalling the equivalent of 14 per cent ascorbic acid applied without the carrier in the same base. Finally, “targeted delivery” can also apply to targeting certain structures within the skin, such as a cell’s nucleus or membrane, and proteins, including those in the collagen family. A proprietary liposome with a lower pH than that of the skin’s surface has been photographed intact within cell membrane walls. Retinol, an essential messenger for cell replication and collagen production, has been entrapped in this form of liposome, as has a unique form of plankton that grows off the Great Barrier Reef. This plankton has the unique ability to cut out UV-damaged DNA and induce its repair before the cell can divide and pass along mutated genes. Listed simply as the liposome material and “algae extract” on the label, this generepairing agent is being used to slow the appearance of ageing and cancer-forming process in skin. Some say it may also offer a solution for acne, baldness and even the return of hair’s original colour once it has gone grey. In summary, if your product supplier tells you that their product utilises “targeted delivery”, find out what form the delivery takes, the target of the delivered ingredient, and how the company knows the delivery is taking place. And one last thing – with products who provide “targeted delivery systems” you will need to protect the activity of your “targeted delivery” products by storing them in a cool, dry, lightless place. Now let’s look at any new developments. Some of the methods I just spoke of have been in use for the past 15 years, so they are becoming quite mainstream in terms of product formulations. But perhaps the most exciting is a technology from the old Soviet Union that takes encapsulation several steps past liposomes. It is referred to as Substitute Cell Membranes (SCM), because these vehicles mimic a cell’s membrane much more comprehensively than a simple liposome. Protein and amino acids are used to mark the SCM outer surface, like an address written on a package. This address allows chemists to send the SCM and its contents to specific cells, where the package is attached to the cell membrane and the contents are released into the cell. SCMs are just starting to enter the market. As well over 100 ingredients go into making the SCM membrane, not to mention its contents, they must all appear on
the ingredient label. However, the maker of SCMs has developed messages to reduce oil flow from sebaceous cells, perspiration from sudoriferous glands and induce lipid formation in dry skin. APJ 2: Much is said about vitamin percentages or the ability for a natural ingredient to provide a certain percentage of nutritional or antioxidant benefit. However, how can we be assured that this information is not hypothetical, and that in actual fact the end product is standardised to offer the potency and efficacy of the promised active ingredient? RJG: I am assuming here that you are referring to plant extract potency, although the potency and efficacy of other performance ingredients are also crucial to the results one gets with a product. The most important thing you can do is ask the manufacturer if they standardise the chemical potency of their plant extracts and how they protect these chemicals from oxidation, or deactivation by heat or exposure to other ingredients. At a recent industry tradeshow I asked a company representative if her plant extracts were chemically standardised. She assured me there were no chemicals in their formulas, including none that might be in the plant. While I assume the message she was trying to give me was that they grew their plants without pesticides, the mere fact that the company representative didn’t know there were chemicals in plants caused me some concern. Were the plant extracts in this “natural” range actually doing something for the skin, or were they in the products for name only? It is important that the potency of an ingredient has to be confirmed at the end of the manufacturing process and must be chemically standardised, otherwise there is no real evidence that the product will deliver what it states it will. APJ 3: What is the relevance and significance of the “use by” date when it comes to a cosmetic product? RJG: Most cosmetic products have a minimum one-year shelf life, and could have a longer freshness period depending upon the product and the company that makes it. If a salon or spa turns their inventory slowly, let’s say once or twice a year, then a “use by” date is probably important. If there is no date on the product, the salon might want to write the date it was received or a year beyond the date it is received, to keep track of inventory freshness. Most manufacturers, while they don’t list a “use by” date for consumers, have a code that is stamped somewhere on the container. It indicates when the product was made, the ingredient batches that went into the product, and even who within the company made and packed the product. If a “use by” date is listed, you should find out what it indicates. Does it mean the product is fresh, that it won’t go rancid or breed bacteria, mould, yeast, fungus or virus during this time? Or does it mean that the performance ingredients will remain effective? This might be the case with products containing unstable ingredients, such as vitamin C. However, some companies don’t want to give a “use by” date because these dates are typically associated with drugs, and certain countries are now looking at this disclosure as a statement the product has druglike activity. In which case, the product is regulated differently than if it is a cosmetic. Rebecca James Gadberry is the president of YG Laboratories and formulator of a highly successful private-label skincare product range that is marketed internationally. These formulations are exclusively marketed in Australia by Maxwell's Professional Skin Care. For further information Ph: 07 5539 1588.
APJ 75
anti-ageing technology will develop. Dr Hadley is an experienced medical practitioner and a highly respected anti-ageing physician. He has kindly accepted to be interviewed by APJ to address the topic of stem cell research and its role in both medicine and aesthetics. APJ 1. What are stem cells and where are they found in the body? Dr Hadley: We observe stem cells at the very beginning of the first creation of life when a sperm fertilises and creates the first cell – which is a stem cell. These cells continue to divide until they differentiate into different types of tissues and other organs. The original cells are the actual embryonic cells. After birth and throughout life, stem cells continue to be made in the body and these are called adult stem cells. The value of stem cells is that they can serve as a repair system for the body. Theoretically, they can divide without limit and replenish other cells. These cells can remain a stem cell or they can become other types of cells, for example blood cells, brain cells or muscle cells. Science recently discovered that these adult stem cells are responsible for the body’s primary renewal and restoration process. They are able to: ! Renew ! Restore ! Repair ! Rebuild ! Regenerate ! Rejuvenate These adult stem cells are predominantly found in the bone marrow. They have been extensively used in leukaemia
STEM CELLS — What does the future hold for Skin Rejuvenation, Health and Wellness? You may think that stem cell research is very much a futuristic issue when it comes to skin rejuvenation and anti-ageing, but nothing could be further from the truth. It would appear (from what was presented at the recent A5M Conference) that we are on the verge of some incredible discoveries that will provide us with solutions to many health and skin issues through the use of stem cells. It is estimated that over the next 10 years stem cells research will be heavily funded, both through governments and the private sector, as it promises to totally transform the healthcare system. Part of APAN’s mission is to ensure that the aesthetic industry accesses the very latest in scientific developments and that we keep you informed on topics that will govern the future of the industry. By staying up-to-date with progress, we hope to assist your transition into new areas and modalities in a timely manner as they arrive. We believe that the information presented by Dr Alan Hadley in this article will give you a glimpse of things to come that have the potential to revolutionise skin therapy solutions through new tools that scientific research and APJ 76
By Dr. Alan Hadley
therapy and have been used in this way for many years. Donors can be healthy family members who have the same blood type. These healthy cells can then offer a new lease of life to the patient. To further understand stem cells, it is worthwhile knowing their major properties, which are quite amazing. Just as in the beginning of life, adult stem cells can literally change to any type of cell in the body throughout life, so these adult stem cells are released from the bone marrow into the bloodstream circulation. They seek out the problem areas and renew and restore these areas. Another example could be an ailing heart. When healthy stem cells are released into the circulation and reach the heart they will seek out the reduced heart cells and attach themselves to the heart and actually become new heart and muscle cells analogous to the original cells in the infant heart. They then begin further delivering more heart muscle cells to replace damaged cells. The same occurs with other organs such as the liver, kidney, brain, eyes, skin and any organ or tissue that is in need of restoration.
APJ 2. When was stem cell research first introduced and what did scientists discover? Dr Hadley: The Swiss and German pioneers were using embryonic, foetal and young animal organ cells over 100 years ago. Live cell therapy (xero-transplantation, ie using the cells, tissues or organs from another species) became established in the 1930s through the work of Dr Paul Niehans and others. Although he and his colleagues successfully treated thousands of people, stem cell therapy remained popular only in European rejuvenation clinics, and in cancer treatment centres in Mexico and South America. APJ 3. How does embryonic and adult stem cells differ and how can adult stem cells overcome the ethical debate? Dr Hadley: Embryonic stem cells are harvested from an aborted embryo. The argument is that as the embryo is dead, why not use its stem cells? However, it still poses an ethical question. These days, however, most stem cells are extracted from the tissue of a living person and this is ethically more readily acceptable. Tissue from a living person can be taken from anywhere in the body e.g. bone marrow, as we have already mentioned. Very good work has also been done with mucous from the nose, as these cells have the potential to develop into stem cells that are very much aligned to embryonic cells and can cross other tissue boundaries. APJ 4. From a medical perspective what excites you the most in terms of what hope stem cells can bring to addressing ailments and offer solutions? Dr Hadley: One of the major solutions that stem cells can provide is the potential for the regeneration of organs. This is incredibly exciting. There have been instances where a finger that had been chopped off was able to grow back again with the introduction of healthy stem cells. There have also been instances where corneal stem cells were transplanted into the eye to regenerate vision. In 2008 a surgeon in Barcelona was treating a patient with tuberculosis. He received a donor’s trachea. He stripped all the tissue off the trachea until he was left with the cartilage. He seeded this with the healthy stem cells and cultured it for four days in a laboratory where new tissue grew. He then transplanted it back into the patient’s body that gave her a new lease in life. Her own body could not do this because it was diseased. These are exciting solutions as they offer hope by being able to develop organs and body pieces that are abnormal or diseased. I believe researchers are currently working also in the dental area, even though some of these areas are still in the experimental stages of development. We can anticipate in the future that we will be able to take someone’s genetic profile and determine the susceptibility to disease, do a stem cell harvesting from someone else, or get donor stem cells with the same DNA structure that fill the gaps and infuse these into the person. By linking with someone’s gene profiling we will be able to create pluripotent cells (iPS cells) In turn, iPS cells can be modified to become many different kinds of cells. In this way we can change their growth patterns to fill in the caps of deficiency. In terms of anti-ageing it is exciting to know that the skin is a prolific source of stem cells. We will be able to find enzymes and substances to produce fat and tissue cells that we can implant in certain parts of the face. Instead of Botox we will be able to top up with stem cells. This may offer the “magic” of “on-going” tissue regeneration. Young people can bank their own cells to ensure autologous stem cells (your own) to be used in the future to top up areas that show the signs of ageing. The US Government is currently funding adult stem cell (not
embryonic) research to find solutions that will help the healthcare system. APJ 5. How can we increase our stem cell numbers and have a boost of health and restoration so it is happening at an optimal level? Dr Hadley: There is now increased evidence to suggest that our stem cell numbers can be increased with exercise – especially isotonic or weigh-bearing exercise. Additionally, high-quality colostrum products that include herbs, such as Fucidin, have been found to also increase stem cells. There is major research in New Zealand to support this. , APJ 6. What do you know about plant stem cells and what benefit do they offer in skincare formulations? Dr Hadley: I believe that currently a unique and rare sour apple from Switzerland called Uttwiler Sparlauber is being used in skincare products. The uniqueness of this apple is that it can stay fresh for several months after it is ripe without any special storage care. Scientists who studied the fruit determined that its longevity was due to stem cells and for this reason it is now used in skincare on human skin. In a paper published in the Journal of Applied Sciences, they pointed out that using an extract of the apple cells on the skin can boost human stem cell production by 80 per cent. APJ 7. Over the next 10 years what unique role do you believe that stem cells will play in addressing cures and in supporting wellness and disease prevention? Dr Hadley: As I have previously said, I believe that there will be some excellent solutions through transplants to failing organs through stem cell doners. Additionally, wellness and disease prevention through products such as colostrum that have been shown to optimise stem cell population so that they can continue to keep us young. Another exciting areas that is currently being researched is the influence of the mind/body connection to stem cell production.
CONCLUSION Anti-ageing medicine implies the slowing down or reversal of ageing in an otherwise healthy individual. On the other hand, regenerative medicine implies the restoration of health and functions in the unhealthy or diseased person. Once health is restored, any further gain would be anti-ageing. There are many strategies, including aesthetic procedures that can be applied at different points of the wellness and anti-ageing spectrum. In terms of what lies ahead, aesthetics and antiageing medicine will definitely have a great deal that they can share and work collaboratively for the benefit of their clients and patients. Of course there will be those who will not wish to engage in the upper spectrum of aesthetics, but for those who do, there awaits some amazing possibilities as scientific breakthroughs spill into our domain of treatment and services and open up new horizons. Dr Alan Hadley is a highly experienced medical practitioner who over the years has developed a style of medicine that incorporates natural remedies and acupuncture in an integrative approach. He understands the importance of listening and spending quality time hearing his patients’ needs and concerns. He aims to promote wellness and vitality in his patients and focuses on supporting patients to achieve an optimum level of health. Dr Hadley specialises in natural hormone therapy, antiageing and wellness programmes, skin cancer and integrated health management. He can be contacted on Email: alan_hadley@hayahoo.com.au on im
APJ 77
a5m conference
The Value of the Aesthetic Practitioner attending a Medical Conference A personal view of the Australasian Academy of Anti-Ageing Medicine (A5M) Conference by Terry Everitt
Dr Michael Zachharia, President A5M
Dr Robert Goldman
I have attended many conferences that have been staged for doctors and have presented at a number of them in America. The integration of the aesthetic professional and the medical field was in fact what brought me back to Australia from Los Angeles, where I was based for 10 years involved in clinical and medical aesthetics. Having a nursing background has helped in the understanding of much of the terminology used, although a lot still goes right over my head, yet I get more than enough to be useful.
As the traditional lines of vocational demarcation are continually being blurred, the interactions between differing professional disciplines are becoming more apparent and indeed more necessary. As the patient is wanting the ‘one-stop shop’ as much as possible to have as many of the needs met by
APJ 78
different practitioners, the understanding of what others do and interacting with them is increasing more important. While this article focuses on a section of Western Medicine, the interaction between the skincare professional and other health providers are just as important. I can see very clear interaction with Chinese Medicine doctors and/or acupuncturists, natural therapy providers, dietitians to name a few.
HOW TO APPROACH A MEDICAL CONFERENCE It is challenging to attend a medical conference when you’re not medically trained, as if nothing else, feelings of inadequacy pop up in thinking it will be far too advanced and that you may not be able to make sense of any of it anyhow. While this is a limiting thought, it does have some validity in undertaking a new paradigm of study and information engagement, yet it should not stop you if this is of interest. I have attended the last two Anti-Ageing and Aesthetic Medicine Conferences in Australia held by the Australasian Academy of Anti-Ageing Medicine (A5M). This year a few others involved in aesthetic skincare also attended, including Tina Viney, Gay Wardle, Maureen Housein-Mustafa and David Adamson among others. In Volume 1 of this journal, Gay Wardle spoke about her experience in attending the Australasian College of Cosmetic Surgery conference earlier this year. I urge you to find that journal (should be easy as I know you file each journal away safely to always have it nearby for the brilliant reference material it is) and re-read the conversation with Gay. Gay talks about the importance of widening your information sources and the value of keeping current with surgical procedures that affect the skin and your interaction with the surgical patient.
Certainly there is no surprise that cosmetic surgery is a little less popular now, as less-invasive treatment protocols become available to be used by non-surgeons. In the rapid development of anti-ageing medicine, in response to utilisation of preventative and proactive treatment modalities, rather than reactive and symptom-based treatments, there is a great opportunity to be involved in the fastestgrowing sector of aesthetic care. Anti-ageing medicine is about “using scientific principles of responsible medical care consistent with those of other healthcare specialties”.(1) One of those healthcare specialities is the aesthetic practitioner who wants to be involved at this level of client care. This medical academy (A5M) is very interested in working with the aesthetic practitioner (along with others in the wider healthcare provision arena) and they are providing action and not just talk in this venture.
MANON PILON
Terry Everitt, Dr Alan Hadley and Bonnie Sleep
This year Manon Pilon, a Canadian spa expert, presented a session based on her book Anti-Aging, The Cure: Based on your Body Type and presented a whole-day Medi-Spa workshop at the conference. I sit on the APAN National Advisory Council with five others, one of who is Bill Anton, the Chairman of the Australian Academy of Anti-Aging Medicine. (See volume 2, page 10/11 of the journal for more information regarding the council). Bill is extremely busy with his multiple commitments yet finds the time to be part of APAN as he sees the value of interaction across care provision disciplines and is very excited to be part of APAN. A5M itself is very inclusionary with Bill being Chairman without being a medical doctor (although is a PhD) and the President is Dr Michael Zacharia, a facial plastic and Ear, Nose and Throat surgeon, with the board of A5M also having a pharmacist and a general practitioner. This is all to reinforce that A5M is very inclusionary of specialists of different backgrounds of treatment care and is well placed to work with the aesthetic practitioner in the ageing symptom prevention area of care.
Gay Wardle and Manon Pilon
THE VALUE OF COLLABORATION It is very interesting that traditionally, beauty therapists and now the highly trained aesthetics therapists have always been in the business of external age prevention and the doctors are now being involved with this prevention thought, rather than reactively treating the signs and symptoms of ageing once they have occurred. I believe the networking with members of A5M will work both ways as the aesthetic practitioner has much to offer and show the doctors – wonderfully this association is not the doctors ‘talking down’ to us, rather it is the equal situation of both groups talking together. For me, being at the medical conferences allows me to be current in what is available and get an ‘inside view’ of what may be coming, yet not presently available. It affords a wealth of knowledge, which simply cannot be gained from books, as the books have not yet been written (frequently by the seminar presenter). It is always a valuable networking opportunity to speak with some of the innovators in their field of expertise. The
Dr Robert Goldman and Maureen Housein-Mustafa
APJ 79
conference subject matter allows a broader base of my knowledge to be developed and I have found that a few thoughts and concepts from these medical specialists carry over to practical application in my area of the skincare arena. Admittedly while not in current ‘hands on’ practice within the industry, I frequently used the information I have gained from this conference to base new treatment modalities, and in combining different modalities that were regarded as ‘cutting edge’ when first used in the clinic.
BENEFIT TO THE AESTHETICIAN The value gained by the aesthetic profession in attending these conferences are many, although a little pre-work may be advantageous; this could be simply consulting the conference website for the lists of speakers and the subjects and perhaps doing a little research yourself on the subject. As part of APAN you have a valuable resource of other members who have attended medical conferences and could advise you of the possible suitability of attendance.
Dr Bill Anton, Helen Anton and Kate Boothe
Since Gay Wardle of Skinology in QLD has been to other medical conferences, I asked her for her thoughts on this conference and with many thanks, these are her comments: “I attended the conference to have a broader education experience so to advise clients on how to keep their body healthy and looking years younger; to network with doctors and gather a referral system to use to direct clients to. It is fantastic to have options available to clients for treatments in salons, plastic and cosmetic surgeons and anti-ageing doctors. Having read many articles on anti-ageing medicine I was very excited to be able attend this conference and listen to antiageing specialists from all over the world. The information delivered was at the doctor- to-doctor level, so a little research before attending is important to be able to understand the level that they are at. Every speaker was just so passionate about the subject they presented and made it easy to listen to and understand. All the doctors, nurses and therapists that attended were there to learn as much as I was and gain more knowledge, so it was comforting to be in that environment.
Henry Osieki and Dr Peter Tunbridge
I am so looking forward to attending A5M’s conference next year. It was one of the best conferences I have attended in terms of information, net-working and the venue was fantastic. I would encourage therapists and aestheticians to attend. Companies are increasingly developing more and more antiageing products. It is amazing what will be next and it is exciting to be involved in this industry. But for me anti-ageing is more than the treatments and products we can offer. Understanding hormones and vitamins and the effect they have on the ageing process is so invaluable. New tests can now be done to identify gene expression and determine how we can support our body long before we start to age or become diseased, not to mention slowing down the ageing process, which is brilliant. So from a salon owner’s point of view to be able to treat my clients with anti-ageing principles I need to have a network of doctors and experts in this field to work with.”
If you are interested in the advances of anti-ageing and have a serious inclination to know more about current anti-ageing thoughts and modalities, then do think
APJ 80
Dr Daniel Weber and Tina Viney
about August 2010 to attend the 4th Annual AntiAgeing & Aesthetic Medical Conference to be held in Melbourne on August 21-22. In future editions of APJ journal information will be presented about the next conference and really exciting things still in development that hopefully will be able to give you a closer experience and even more reasons and greater value for attending this conference.
REFERENCE: (1)
Changing Paradigms in Medicine, Conference compendium, The Australasian Academy of Anti-Ageing Medicine. Melbourne 2009. P2.
BIOELEMENTS: Understanding the power of customised blended formulations Choosing the right skincare line is never easy, so how do you know which line will offer you the best solutions for your clients’ diverse needs? We all know that choosing the right products for our clients is key for the success of business, but what do we choose when one size just doesn’t fit all. Bioelements’ professional skincare line has been created unlike any other. Bioelements has been scientifically formulated and since its creation in 1991 has delivered results-orientated skincare that has secured a loyal clientele, both through professional salons as well as their clients that keep coming back for their unique custom blend. Being leaders in product development, Bioelements has trail-blazed the industry with innovative ingredients in professional skin care, including granulated Chinese herbs, used since 1993, and is one of the first companies to benefit from probiotic actives, which were launched in 2006. The science behind Bioelements and the ingredients used, is what makes Bioelements such a success no matter what the skin type. From very oily, very dry to ultra-sensitive skin, this really is a line that addresses all skin types and conditions and can be customised to exactly meet the needs of each individual. THE KEYS TO BETTER TREATMENT RESULTS This is a revolution in skincare treatment concept that stands out above other products. The experts behind Bioelements seek the most effective, potent, natural ingredients, distilled from nature’s pure plant extracts, essential oils and trace minerals, before each formula is developed and bio-engineered for optimum performance. The benefits of natural ingredients versus lab-created ingredients and oils is that they are more bio-available and support the skin’s immunity as well as enhance its appearance. Trace minerals, also known as micro-minerals, are essential nutrients, and include copper and zinc that the body only requires in small amounts. It is believed that trace minerals aid in the delivery of nutrients to all layers of the skin. Plant extracts such as Green and White Tea extracts fortify the skin with anti-oxidant benefits, while improving skin texture and appearance. Licorice Root extract, renowned for its anti-inflammatory properties, is also another prominent ingredient included in the Bioelements products to help calm and comfort sensitive and delicate skin, hence these ingredients are such imperative components in the range. But how does Bioelements really meet the needs of every client all in a single range? Bioelements provides a lab to beauty therapists to Custom Blend Bioelements products with organic botanicals, cosmeceuticals and aromatherapy oils that will optimise the results your client is looking for. Bioelements targets a vast range of skincare needs, from clearing blemishes, dark circles and dry spots, to fighting
the visible signs of ageing and restoring youthful, healthy-looking skin. With 12 highly concentrated formulas and almost 300 different combinations tailored specifically to each individual’s needs, even the toughest of skin conditions can expect excellent results. THE BIOELEMENTS CUSTOM- BLENDING LAB OFFERS THREE CATEGORIES OF TREATMENTS: ! Custom-lend Cosmeceuticals – to combat the signs of ageing, acne causing bacteria and to bring dull, hyper-pigmented skin back to life ! Custom-Blend Botanicals – to fortify and re-balance the skin with plant and mineral extracts ! Custom-Blend Essential oils – providing the option to incorporate aromatherapy principles to work on both the skin and the mind. Cosmeceuticals are nutritionally enriched with naturally or synthetically processed active ingredients. Bioelements’ ingredient Alpha Lipoic Acid is a custom-blended cosmeceutical used for postoperative healing, ageing skin, poor elasticity and sun damage, and has been selected due to the ability to prevent the activation of damaging enzymes called matrix metalto-proteinases (MMPs). Its small molecular size facilitates absorption into the skin even hours after application. Bioelements’ quality formulas offer integrity, ensuring that every ingredient meets the highest quality and purity standards, from organic botanicals and powerful antioxidant vitamins, to lab-engineered probiotic active and time-released retinol. The Bioelements line contains no animal by-products, synthetic fragrances, artificial colours or other pore-clogging ingredients. The Custom-Blending Lab is not only used throughout professional treatments, but also advances each retail product into a customised product. Clients can be happy to know they are using the same professional products at home that are used in the treatment room, thus enhancing the clinical results with every use. “This is a huge step forward for Australia. The Custom Blending even assists in further building relationships with our clients. Not only do they come in for treatments, they are popping back to have their products custom blended, so many return visits is ever lasting for the business,” says Jai Harvey-Yin, well-known Australian Beauty Therapist and distributor of Bioelements. For example, a client has concerns about dehydration and uneven skin tone, while your evaluation identifies premature ageing. With Bioelements you can formulate the product to address all these concerns: ! Palmitoyl Tripeptide-3 — for its anti-ageing benefits to help fight premature lines and support collagen production ! Vitamin C Blend — acting as a topical antioxidant to combat free radical damage that contributes to inflammation and redness, while supporting the integrity of collagen production ! Pure Algae Extract — for deep hydration to help boost skin moisture levels Each product is fortified with the exact customised ingredients that your client needs to address their deficiencies. Bioelements is a pioneer in skincare and provides effective solutions to every skincare need through the power of customised formulation for exceptional results. As a professional skincare line Bioelements is relied upon by dermatologists and qualified aestheticians who require the flexibility of ingredient selection in order to achieve excellent skin treatment results time and time again. For further information contact BIOELEMENTS PROFESSIONAL SKINCARE 1300 262 275.
APJ 81
product releases
Livingstone Aluminium Foils are all-purpose foils that are available in two different sizes: 150mx30cm and 150mx44cm. Sold in handy packs with dispensers, these foils are so easy to use. Strong, durable and efficient, Livingstone Aluminium Foil is a perfect solution to all hairdressers and beauty therapy needs. These foils are available for sale now and you can buy them in individual rolls, as well as six Rolls per carton. Also available are the Livingstone Plastic Wraps - allpurpose plastic wraps that come in two sizes: 33cmx600m and 45cmx600m. Sold in dispenser packs, these wraps come with two cutting options for your convenience: serrated edges and easy-cut slide cutter. Livingstone Plastic Wraps are microwave safe and non-toxic. You can buy them in individual rolls, as well as six rolls in a carton.
New from Livingstone International Aluminium Foils & Plastic Wraps in Dispensers Livingstone has an amazing offer for all APJ readers! Spend over $100 on a single order between December 09 & January ’10 and receive 1 FREE pack of Alcohol swabs and 5 Pairs of Latex gloves. Please quote campaign code APJ0912. Contact Livingstone International on 1300 557 557, email beauty@livingstone.com.au or visit www.livingstone.com.au. .
Smooth Operator With summer on our doorsteps, everyone likes to be smooth and hair free. Yet no one likes the discomfort associated with hair removal, be it waxing, laser, electrolysis or other. With this thought in mind, Elements Australia created Smoothie Triple Action body smoothing lotion, which works in three ways. Soothes and comforts the skin immediately after hair removal, minimises the appearance of ‘skin pumps’ and ingrown hairs following hair epilation and retards hair growth and maintains silky smooth skin for longer. Smoothie contains Australian anti-bacterial Lemon Myrtle Oil to minimise skin redness and discomfort plus natural exfoliants from Milk and Lilly Pilly Berries to draw out stubborn ingrown hairs. A d d i t i o n a l l y, S m o o t h i e contains Bio-Dormin® hair retardant, which helps to reduce the frequency of hair removal. Your clients will be delighted!
For information phone Elements Australia on 1800 336 338
APJ 82
New ground-braking Moisturiser from ALPHA-H Introducing the new age blocker from Alpha-H: Daily Essential Moisturiser SPF 30+. Age blocker, wrinkle preventer, collagen saver. Formulated with skin-preserving antioxidants and 5 groundbreaking broad spectrum sun filters, this light-weight, touch-dry, non-whitening moisturiser is suitable for all skin types and makes the Daily Essential Moisturiser SPF 30+ the ultimate three-in-one insurance policy for the skin.
Contact Alpha-H on 1800 659 777 or visit www.alpha-h.com
The Silver Lining Collection Stunning hues of steel greys, deep blues and illuminating metallics are sure to brighten even the darkest days, making this NEW COLLECTION from Jane Iredale a standout favourite seller. Silver Lining is the newest addition to the award-winning mineral eye shadows. It contains three rich shades – twilight grey, glistening silver and shimmering charcoal in a single compact. Indigo coloured Midnight Blue Pencil brightens the whites of the eyes, adding a sophisticated touch. Subtle, yet sexy Silver Liquid Eye Liner adds glamour to lash lines. The gilded gold and glowing copper of Double Dazzle add a soft radiance to everything they touch. Use this multi-purpose highlighter on cheek and brow bones, to line the eyes and to emphasise lips. Add a touch of nutmeghued Hazelnut PureGloss for a look that’s sure to dazzle! Contact Margifox Distributors on 1300 850 008 www.janeiredale.com
Pumpkin Resurfacing Peel Pumpkin contains natural Lactic, Glycolic and Salicylic Acid as well as Protelytic enzymes (which break keratin bonds between dead cells), allowing pumpkin peels to enhance cell turnover of the epidermis both on the surface of the skin and in the follicles. AHAs enhance cell turnover and stimulate the rejuvenation of collagen. BHA being lipophilic will penetrate the follicles to enhance cellular turnover in the walls of the follicles. Additionally, it delivers antibacterial properties. The combination of these properties of AHAs and BHAs make Pumpkin Peel an invaluable product for acne, pigmentation problems and for your anti-ageing clients. Phone Clinic Care on 1300 799 709 for further details.
Stimulate Collagen with DERMAROLLER The Dermaroller is the first TGA listed transdermal needle roller - the Australian Register of Therapeutic Goods lists the Dermaroller as a Class 11a Medical Device. The main benefit listed is that of Collagen Induction Therapy. The Dermaroller is perceived as a wound injuring device – but in fact is stimulates the tissue without injury. Clinically proven to induce up to 1000% of new collagen after one treatment. Contact CLINIC CARE 1300 799 709
Skeyndor Body Slindy Lift Up Sculpting Cream This is the perfect season to target the not-so-taut areas of the body and what better product to help you achieve this than the Skeyndor Body Slindy Lift Up Sculpting Cream. It contains the multi-active benefits of Asian Pennywort to firm and restore the skin’s strength by supporting its structure. In addition the skin will appear softer and more vibrant. Containing caffeine to control and help prevent cellulite from re-appearing, Soy to improve tone and texture, Oats for soothing the skin and Mango for its vast reparative and anti-oxidant benefits to help combat free radical damage. The result is a firmer looking skin with improved texture. Recommended for use morning and night. To find out more about the Body Slindy Treatments and products please call Vogue Image Group on 1 800 554 545 or (03) 9821 0033.
APJ 83
You need the perfect tools to grow your business 4CP Promotional Products can make it easy for you Every business needs new clients and one of the best methods of attracting them is through referrals from existing happy customers who can become your best advertising. Here is how: ! Staff needs to ask for referrals – make it easy for them ! Offer happy clients a gift and one to give away for you — IT WORKS! ! Say Thank You every time you receive a referral with a gift that has your details on it
4CP specialises in cost-effective quality gifts and promotional products to hand out and reward your clients with. For as little as 99 cents a trendy product, complete with your salon’s contact details can help increase your client base. For further details and to order contact 4CP Promotional Products & Graphic Design Ph: 07 5442 3341 Email: wayne@4cp.com.au or www.4cp.com.au
Waterlily’s Summer Skin Solution Steeped in soothing dilutions of aromatic botanicals and anti-ageing vitamins the Waterlily formula for summer skin effectively delivers immediate results. With pure cold-pressed nutrient-rich bases steeped in nurturing plant extracts the skin is instantly calmed, hydrated and replenished. Drenched in stunning organic fruit and herbs, age-defying vitamins and French clay this collection visibly rebalances sebum and revitalises the complexion to offer a youthful dewy glow. To learn more about the Waterlily Spa Wellness philosophy visit us at www.waterlilybodyandbath.com.au
Multi-Purpose Rejuvenating Gel Best selling product! MisMo Rejuvenating Gel is an ultra-concentrated bio-peptide serum developed to improve skin tone and elasticity at a cellular level. It contains a high percentage of hyaluronic acid for its super-hydrating properties, MSM to aid in product penetration and Aloe Vera to soothe the skin of any irritations. MisMo Rejuvenating Gel is an excellent conducting gel for micro-currents or photorejuvenation treatments and when combined with MisMo Moisturiser or Mismo Nourishing Cream it offers long-lasting results in skin renewal, enhancing the tone of the skin, while minimising the appearance of lines and wrinkles. MisMo products have been successfully used in Medical Aesthetic Clinics after invasive procedures as well as through skin therapy salons. These quality Australian products rival many products in terms of results, yet are often less than half their cost. MisMo skin treatment products are affordable and effective and suit all skin types and conditions.
For enquiries phone Irene 0403 834 400 at MisMo Body Care. APJ 84
SKEYNDOR ETERNAL (with Apple stem cells) secret of youth gift set Arriving in a beautiful signature box is the SKEYNDOR ETERNAL a lavish three-piece gift set. In the spirit of giving, Skeyndor elegantly presents ETERNAL Icy Eye Cream, ETERNAL Concentrated Serum and ETERNAL Cream so your special person can experience the pure pleasure of luxurious skincare. Each product works in synergy to deliver a more luminous and youthful expression each day. Thanks to the power plus of stem cells of the Uttwiler Spatlauber apple, the ETERNAL products help fend off impending lines, diminish existing ones and deliver intense hydration so a new skin vitality and radiance emerges. These new generation products will amaze you with their results. Contact Vogue Image Group on 1800 554 545 or
03 9821 0033.
New! Hazelnut PureGloss for Lips from Jane Iredale Loaded with pure minerals the lip gloss you know and love from Jane Iredale is now available in a sparkling nutmeg shade with a touch of copper for truly luscious lips. Tingly mint and ginger plump the lips naturally giving them fullness. Hazelnut PureGoss is the perfect item to stock this Summer.
Timexpert C+ launched with fantastic product pack For radiant luminous skin you can’t beat Germaine de Capuccini’s new Timexpert C+ range. Biotechnology has allowed Germaine de Capuccini to provide the skin with purer ingredients that are more effective, skin hydration levels are greatly improved, fine lines and wrinkles diminished and skin is luminous and radiant. For a limited time and while stocks last, purchase Germaine de Capuccini’s Timexpert C+ Revitalising Cream OR Emulsion and receive FREE, vial of Pure C Essence Serum and 10ML Radiance Peel Mask, beautifully packaged in gift box with ribbon. RRP $96.00, bonus products valued at $43.80.
Contact Germaine de Capuccini on 1300 432 100 or visit www.germaine-de-cappucini.com.au
Contact Margifox Distributors on 1300 850 008 www.janeiredale.com
Antioxidant A-C-E Vitamin Serum MisMo is an Australian niche brand known as the specialists of niche quality skincare products, developed to offer the very best results in skin treatments. One example is the MiSMo A-C-E Vitamin Serum that fortifies the skin with high levels of essential antioxidants for improved skin texture and tone as well as to support the integrity of collagen. Available only to salons and aesthetic medical clinics, the MisMo A-C-E Vitamin Serum has been successfully used as a treatment serum. Great results have also been achieved when just one pump is added to a facial treatment mask for additional vitamin and anti-oxidant benefits. Containing high-uality Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate (vitamin C), Retinyl Palmitate vitamin A) and Vitamin E MisMo A-C-E Serum is a powerful antioxidant serum, which works to reverse the appearance of ageing skin as well as protect against further sun damage. Australian made and highly affordable – incredible value at $39 for 55mls. Just released is MisMo Boost – an oil free moisturiser with high percentages of hyaluronic acid. Excellent also for men. When phoning ask us about this product as well. For enquiries phone Irene 0403 834 400 at MisMo Body Care. APJ 85
BUSINESS NEWS IN BRIEF understanding as to what are the expectations and if anything has changed in terms of employee requirements. These should included establishing protocols on how to treat colleagues and staff with respect. Employers’ duty of care therefore should not only ensure the safety of the work environment, but also take into consideration how they can support and enhance the physical and emotional wellbeing of their staff.
The “Ask and Inspire” Management style Are you performing your Duty of Care?
Companies and salon owners need to become aware that under common law in Australia all employers have a duty of care for the health and safety of their staff, not only physical, but also mental health and safety. According to solicitor Alistair Salmon the law does not distinguish between the two - physical and mental. Staff stress is a serious factor that is costing businesses thousands of dollars. In-depth academic studies have confirmed that stress is a major contributor to employment disengagement, resulting in reduced productivity and lost sales opportunities. The study also confirmed that with downsizing of businesses remaining staff members often suffer anxiety due to heightened job insecurity. Employers can assist in minimising the impact of such stress by making sure they establish clear value systems at work, the experts advise. These include conduct and behaviour issues such as providing effective communication systems to allow staff to discuss any concerns. Having written policies in place and educating staff on those policies and their importance can greatly assist in minimising stress through a lack of
APJ 86
As pressures increase through economic uncertainty and belt tightening so the need for business owners to change their management styles has become a necessity. According to Dr Richard Boyatzis, a world leader in emotional intelligence and author of the Competent Manager, managers must learn to regenerate themselves before they can expect to get the best out of their staff. He further stresses that the “ask and inspire” approach to management is infinitely more effective than the military style “command and control” and this is far from new, even though the former style is more difficult to master. According to Boyatzis’s research there are four basic human qualities that enable managers to build a resonate relationship with their staff. These are: compassion, mindfulness, playfulness and hope. Staff that believes that management sincerely cares for them will significantly perform better. To ignite engagement he also recommends that staff meetings should not kick off talking about figures, but about purpose. Talking about purpose may feel like a distraction to improving the bottom line, but it is the core of better management. If the staff believe that in essence they are valued and that they are entrusted with the purpose of the business they are more likely to contribute conscientiously to the goals of the business.
Are you a good planner? Although the value of planning is clearly stressed by most business coaches it is considered as a tactic that is highly avoided. As a salon owner you typically get caught up with the “now” issues and fail to set aside time to plan for the future. Often the day-to-day tasks take precedence and managers are so self- absorbed that they have no energy to consider where they going. According to Harold Burman, a consultant with the Australian Institute of Management here are some dos and don’ts of successful planning: ! Do involve your staff and people with experience and knowledge ! Do have both a formal and an informal decision making process ! Do have high quality data from which to work as this will lead to better decisions
! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! !
Do work in a language that all understand Do be flexible in the planning Do create a culture of transparency and trust Do ensure that the plan is aligned with the values, strategic focus and key performance indicators Do “helicopter rides” where you stand back and look at the whole plan Don’t use poor data Don’t over plan Don’t ignore intuition Don’t do the planning behind closed doors Don’t follow a plan if it is not working
Further Burman stated that the five critical skills involved in planning are: ! Questioning – the first step to ask questions to discover what the current situation is, and what your business is looking to achieve. This is the starting point. ! Listening – You need to listen to stakeholders concerns and expectations. These may be your clients or your staff. ! Metrics – Determine how will you measure your success and progress and decide what needs to change ! Scenario planning – how is the plan going to be implemented and how will you deal with contingencies. ! Tell a story – finally the plan has to tell a story as to where the staff and your team are going and how they will get there. If you can develop and communicate your plan like a story that engages and motivates all who will be involved, this will assist in bringing together all the elements that will achieve the outcome you are looking for.
Bill Gates’ Survival Rules
Retaining Staff Australian businesses are being urged to keep people on board as unemployment rises to 5.8 per cent. While the Australian Business Services figures reflect the growing impact of the financial downturn on businesses in Australia, figures from other leading indicators show that the recovery may be on its way. As a result, recruitment services are calling on employers to look beyond the current difficulties and plan their workforce for a long-term recovery.
While experts are telling us to “soften” our management style Baby Boomers often interpret survival through a more direct approach. When questions about his incredible success, Bill Gates, founder of Microsoft, offered these 11 insights to anyone starting out. He presented the following to school graduates: 1. Life isn’t fair – get used to it. 2. The world doesn’t care about your self-esteem issues; it expects you to accomplish something before feeling good about yourself. 3. You won’t make $100,000 a year or be a vice president with a cell phone right out of school. You have to earn it. 4. Do you think your teacher is tough? Wait until you have a boss. 5. Flipping burgers isn’t beneath you; your grandparents called it opportunity. 6. If you mess up it’s not your parent’s fault. 7. Your parents weren’t always boring; it came from feeding you, cleaning your clothes and paying your bills. 8. Some schools may have abolished winners and losers, but life hasn’t. 9. Life isn’t divided into semesters. You don’t get summers off. Employers aren’t interested in helping you “find yourself”; you do that in your own time. 10. Unlike television, real people actually have to leave the coffee shop and go to work. 11. Be nice to nerds; chances are, you may end up working for one some day. APJ 87
business
Fair Work Act 2009 and its impact on the new Hair and Beauty Award 2010 The National Employment Standards (NES), which include: Maximum weekly hours of work The right to request flexible working arrangements Parental leave and related entitlements Annual leave Personal/carer’s leave and compassionate leave Community service leave Long service leave Public holidays Notice of termination and redundancy pay A ‘Fair Work Information Statement’ for all employees that clearly defines their rights and entitlements under the new system and how to get advice and help.
! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! !
These minimum entitlements apply to full-time and part-time employees. Some of these entitlements do not apply to casual employees. From January 2010, there will be a national Hair and Beauty Industry Award 2010 (MA000005), and also of interest to many of you will be the Educational Services (PostSecondary Education) Award 2010 (MA000075). Not quite the industrial revolution again, but significant changes have and will take place within the Australian industrial relations area that will affect you as an individual, either employer or employee and a business owner. The Fair Work Act 2009 (FWA) commenced July 1st 2009 with major changes to payment awards coming into effect 1st January 2010. It sets out a number of requirements that businesses, including small business, need to be aware of. The national workplace relations system under the Fair Work Act 2009 (FWA) will see the creation of three new bodies: ! Fair Work Australia and Office of the Fair Work Ombudsman, both commenced 1 July 2009 ! Office of the Fair Work Building Industry Inspectorate, from 1 February 2010 ! These bodies will replace the following: ! Australian Industrial Relations Commission (AIRC) Australian Industrial Registry The AIRC and the Registry continue until 31 December 2009, primarily for the completion of the award modernisation process and some outstanding matters, although Fair Work Australia assumes all other functions from 1 July 2009. Aspects of the FWA commenced on 1 July 2009, including new unfair dismissal laws and the small business fair dismissal code, as well as requirements for employees and employers to bargain in good faith when making enterprise agreements. The Fair Work Act 2009 also has an important part of it that must be read in conjunction with the awards — Part 2-2:
APJ 86
MINIMUM WAGE SETTING Each financial year from 2010, a Minimum Wage Panel defined by the FWA will conduct an annual wage review, which will review modern award minimum wages and make a national minimum wage order. The FWA also requires small business to comply with new: Unfair and unlawful dismissal laws Agreement-making obligations Transfer of business rules, and Workplace rights specified in the FWA.
! ! ! !
All wage/salary payments will come under either a collective agreement or a national award.
COLLECTIVE AGREEMENTS The collective agreements will be tested against the National Awards for parity and for agreements made until 31 December 2009, the Workplace Relations Act 1996 (the WR Act) nodisadvantage test will continue to apply. From 1 January 2010 the collective agreements will be known as Enterprise Agreements and contain a new test to compare the terms of a proposed agreement against the relevant modern award to ensure employees will be better off overall.
MODERN AWARDS An award is an enforceable document containing employment conditions. The new ‘Modern Awards’ come into effect 1st January 2010. These awards are based on The Australian Fair Pay and Conditions Standard comprising of five minimum employment conditions: ! Basic rates of pay and casual loadings ! Maximum ordinary hours of work ! Annual leave ! Personal leave ! Parental leave and related entitlements.
HAIR AND BEAUTY INDUSTRY AWARD 2010 (MA000005) This award covers all those working in the beauty industry and sets out the various conditions of work. The above award was first made on 19 December 2008, with variations made on 11th and 25th September 2009 and modernised for effect 1st January 2010. The award is 29 pages and perhaps the most interesting part is Part 4 - Classification and Wage Rates, which begins on page 12. Schedule B – Classifications details the levels that wages are classified under. The short story is: Hair and Beauty Employee Level 4 means: A Beauty Therapist who holds a Certificate IV in Beauty Therapy (or equivalent). Hair and Beauty Employee Level 6 means: A beauty therapist who holds a Diploma in Beauty Therapy (or equivalent). The other award that will be of interest to some readers is the Educational Services Award.
EDUCATIONAL SERVICES (POST-SECONDARY EDUCATION) AWARD 2010. (MA000075) This award for the first time covers the VET sector trainers so those within a RTO are included in this award. Trainers are classified as teachers as explained in Schedule B of the award and will be paid according to their qualification level. Their website is http://www.fwa.gov.au/ Find an award on the website http://www.fwa.gov.au/index.cfm?pagename=awardsfind
OF INTEREST TO SMALL BUSINESS The Fair Work Act 2009 provides for the Minister to declare a Small Business Fair Dismissal Code effective from 1 July 2009. The code will apply to small business employers, defined as employers with less than 15 full-time equivalent employees.
A PERSON IS NOT UNFAIRLY DISMISSED IF THE DISMISSAL:
! ! !
Is by a ‘small business employer’ as defined, and Is consistent with the code, or Involves an employee who has not completed the minimum employment period of one year.
An employee, who is not a small business employee, is not eligible to make an unfair dismissal application if they have not completed a minimum of six months employment. The multitude of details contained within the FWA and associated documents are outside the scope of this information article. Further information can be gained from following websites of the departments involved with the FWA operation.
FAIR WORK AUSTRALIA The Fair Work Australia is the National Workplace Relations Tribunal. It is an independent body with power to carry out a range of functions relating to: ! The safety net of minimum wages and employment conditions ! Enterprise bargaining ! Industrial action ! Dispute resolution ! Termination of employment ! Other workplace matters
FAIR WORK OMBUDSMAN Fair Work Ombudsman works with employees, employers, contractors and the community to promote harmonious, productive and cooperative workplaces. The Ombudsman’s role is to: ! Provide advice and education on Australia’s workplace laws ! Monitor compliance and investigates contraventions of national workplace laws ! Publish information on workplace rights and obligations ! Provide tools and information for small businesses ! The Fair Work Ombudsman has produced Best Practice Guides to assist small to medium-sized businesses to implement best practice initiatives. Working at best practice helps employers and employees achieve happier, fairer and more productive workplaces. The Best Practice Guides provide guidance on important workplace issues. T h e F a i r Wo r k O m b u d s m a n w e b s i t e i s http://www.fwo.gov.au/Pages/default.aspx Fair Work Act 2009 can be downloaded from http://www.fwa.gov.au/index.cfm?pagename=legislationfwact
The Department of Education, Employment and Workplace Relations, with the Deputy Prime Minister having the portfolio, has produced a series of fact sheets that can be downloaded from http://www.deewr.gov.au/WorkplaceRelations/ NewWorkplaceRelations/Pages/FactSheets.aspx If you are involved in the Australian workforce somewhere, somehow, you will be affected by the Fair Work Act 2009. Ignorance is no defence in law, so you need to know how these changes will affect you. This article was submitted by Terry Everitt APJ 89
SCIENTIFIC NEWS This section will present news and research information relating to skin and anti-ageing discoveries. doesn't have the same risk of creating bacterial resistance.
Whiter laundry and a surprising new treatment for Juvenile eczema
It's best known for whitening a load of laundry. But now simple household bleach has a surprising new role: an effective treatment for kids' chronic eczema. Chronic, severe eczema can mar a childhood. The skin disorder starts with red, itchy, inflamed skin that often becomes crusty and raw from scratching. The eczema disturbs kids' sleep, alters their appearance and affects their concentration in school. The itching is so bad kids may break the skin from scratching and get chronic skin infections that are difficult to treat, especially from methicillin-resistant Staphylococcus aureus (MRSA). Researchers from the Northwestern University Feinberg School of Medicine in the US have discovered powerful relief in the form of diluted bleach baths. It's a cheap, simple and safe treatment that drastically improves the rash as well as reduces flare-ups of eczema, which affects 17 per cent of school-age children. The study found giving paediatric patients with moderate or severe eczema (atopic dermatitis) diluted bleach baths decreased signs of infection and improved the severity and extent of the eczema on their bodies. That translates into less scratching, fewer infections and a higher quality of life for these children. The typical treatment of oral and topical antibiotics increases the risk of bacterial resistance, something doctors try to avoid, especially in children. Bleach kills the bacteria but, APJ 90
Patients on the bleach baths had a reduction in eczema severity that was five times greater than those treated with placebos over one to three months, said Amy S. Paller, M.D., the Walter J. Hamlin Professor and chair of d e r m a t o l o g y, a n d p r o f e s s o r o f paediatrics, at the Feinberg School. Paller also is an attending physician at Children's Memorial Hospital. The study will be published in the journal Pediatrics April 27. “ We ' v e l o n g s t r u g g l e d w i t h staphylococcal infections in patients with eczema," Paller said. She noted more than two-thirds of eczema patients have evidence of staphylococcus on their skin, the bacteria that most commonly causes infection and worsens the eczema. "This study shows that simple household bleach, which we think decreases the staphylococcus on the skin, can help these children.” In the study, Paller and researchers treated 31 pediatric patients (six months to 17 years old) who had eczema and a bacterial staph infection for 14 days with oral antibiotics. Half of the patients received bleach in their bathwater (half a cup per full standard tub), while the other half received a look-alike placebo. Patients were also instructed to put a topical antibiotic ointment or placebo control into their nose (where the staphylococcus can also grow) for five sequential days of each month. All were instructed to bathe in the bleach twice a week, and soak for five to 10 minutes for three months. The research team saw such rapid improvement in the kids taking the real bleach baths that they terminated the study early because they wanted the children getting the placebo to get the same relief. " Northwestern researchers launched the study to confirm their hunch about the potential of bleach baths, "since bleach has been used by hospitals in the past few years as a disinfectant to decrease MRSA," Paller said.
One interesting finding in the study was the eczema on the body, arms and legs improved dramatically with the bleach baths, but the face, which was not submerged in the bath, did not improve, further evidence of the positive effect of the bath. Scientists believe eczema may be triggered by urban pollutants and toxins and/or allergies, and certainly shows a genetic tendency. "We don't have all the answers and are still learning about this disease," Paller said. For further details contact: Marla Paul: Marla-Paul@northwestern.edu Ph: 312-503-8928 Northwestern University USA.
Anti-Ageing Events
Advanced Hormone Therapy Course The AustralAsian Academy of AntiAgeing Medicine will host one of the w o r l d ’s f o r e m o s t e x p e r t s i n interventional endocrinology, Dr Thierry Hertoghe. Dr Hertoghe will present a three-day Advanced Hormone Therapy Course in Melbourne on February 26-28, 2010. This course is open to all physicians and healthcare professionals interested in expanding their knowledge and practice of hormone treatments. Dr Thierry Hertoghe is the President of the International Hormone Society and the World Society of Anti-Aging Medicine (WOSAAM). He is the author
of various books, textbooks and articles including the Hormone Handbook and the Hormone Solution. This course will focus on: Improving hormone levels through lifestyl e, diet , exerci se and environmental factors. ! Reference ranges of hormone levels and where supplementation is necessary for disease prevention. ! Cutting-edge information on how to treat with “forgotten” but essential hormones such as oxytocin, relaxin, leptin, and new applications of DHEA. ! New treatments such as progesterone therapy in men, melatonin, correct use of human-growth hormone in adult treatments, cortisol, aldosterone, treatments with estrogens and progesterone in regularly cycling women and in the menopause. ! Bio-identical and synthetic hormone treatment options.
!
Where: Novotel on Collins Date: 26-28 February 2010 Register: Phone 03 9813 0439 or email: enquiries@a5m.net
A5M 4TH ANNUAL 2010 CONFERENCE 21st – 22nd August 2010, Melbourne The 2010 A5M Conference will be the pinnacle of an extensive calendar of events to be held throughout Australia. The AustralAsian Academy of AntiAgeing Medicine will host Anti-Ageing Medicine expert, Dr Eric R. Braverman As one of the world’s most respected experts in Integrative & Anti-Ageing Medicine, Dr Braverman is the author of the best-selling books Younger You and The Edge Effect. Dr Braverman’s work focuses on “The Brain” as the new frontier. He unravels the complexity of the brain and how the four key neurotransmitters interplay to impact mood, health and longevity. Dr Braverman specialises in balancing the brain’s chemistry to help patients look and feel 15 years younger via nutrition, brain stimulation and other treatment protocols. Dr Braverman was recently appointed the prestigious Clark Randt Memorial
lecture and has accepted an appointment as Clinical Assistant Professor of Integrative Medicine in Neurological Surgery at Weill Cornell Medical College. The 2010 A5M Conference will combine both internal and external aspects of Anti-Ageing & Regenerative Medicine and will include over 30 workshops discussing the latest research and protocols. Sign up now for Super Early Bird Rates. For more information or to sign up, visit the A5M booth at the 2009 Conference or contact us at enquiries@a5m.net or Phone 03 9813 0439.
ANTI-AGEING SCIENCE Vitamin C Reduces Signs of Ageing Topically applied vitamin-C can increase the quality of collagen in the skin and reduce the signs of aging, according to French scientists. Researchers applied either 5 per cent vitamin-C cream or a placebo to the skin of 20 women over a six-month period. Tests showed that skin wrinkles had improved significantly, showing that vitamin-C not only rearranges collagen, but also increases its production. The researchers concluded that vitamin-C compounds are as effective as vitamin-A derived retinols with fewer side-effects.
Surgical Stitches Could Be Redundant Poly-L-lactide nanosheets could totally replace surgical stitches according to research by Tokyo’s Waseda University. AustralAsian Academy of Anti-Ageing Medicine (A5M), President Dr Michael Zacharia said poly-L-lactide has been used previously as degradable stitches and in drug delivery. “Researchers in Tokyo have used the biodegradable material to develop nanosheets for suture treatment,” Dr Zacharia said.
The study team applied the sheets to incisions made in mice stomachs. The wound healed without scarring or tissue adhesion.” Published in the Advanced Materials Journal, the research found the material could constitute an ideal candidate for an alternative to conventional suture/ligation procedures, from the perspective not only of a minimally invasive surgical technique but also reduction of operation time. The nanosheets (only about 20 nanometres in thickness) could be used for general wound dressing, but may be particularly useful in plastic surgery, endoscopic surgery and regenerative medicine. Clinical trials could still be several years away.
Dysport May Outlast Botox A new “wrinkler relaxer” may outlast Botox by two to four months, according to the manufacturer Medicis Aesthetics. Clinical studies and patient report found that Dysport may last up to eight months compared to Botox, which typically lasts four to six months.Dysport is a "next generation" acetylcholine release inhibitor and neuromuscular blocking agent indicated for the temporary improvement of the appearance of moderate to severe glabellar or frown lines between the brows. Medicis Aesthetics has evaluated Dysport’s safety and efficacy in clinical studies on approximately 3,000 patients and 10,000 injections at more than 80 clinical study sites in the U.S. “With Dysport injections lasting longer, patients should only need half the amount of Botox treatments, reducing their costs. Moreover, research has shown that Dysport "takes effect sooner, further saving patient’s time,” said a Medicis Aesthetics press release. Information courtesy of a5m.net Or phone 03 9813 0439
APJ 91
business
Bartering Basics by Terry Everitt If you think times are still tough economically, then perhaps you need to think a little differently on how to get services you need and to have people take the services you have. Long before someone thought of money as currency to keep things flowing (and I think it was the tax man as it seems to mostly flow his way), there was the simple process of bartering. This is environmental sustainability in its purest form – swap what you have with someone who wants it for something they have and that you would like. This of course is nothing new and some great deals have been achieved with bartering – perhaps one of the best barters was the island of Manhattan that was swapped for 24 beads and two blankets. No doubt at the time a good deal, although the local Indians obviously were not real estate trained. Mind you most of Australia was bartered at the time with less than honest value applied to the barter. A quick Google search of the term ‘bartering websites from Australia’ brought up 1,840,000 results, and then narrowing this by clicking ‘pages from Australia’ returned 2,550 results. Go have a look, but proceed with extreme caution. Arthur O’Sullivan and Steven Sheffrin wrote in their book Economics: Principles in Action that “Bartering is a medium in which goods or services are directly exchanged for other goods and/or services without the use of money”. This has not been the mainstay of the current economic times, however, perhaps it is making a comeback.
APJ 92
HOW DOES IT WORK? Bartering usually is between people who know each other and know what services the other can provide and agree to swap product or service as in a haircut for a facial. How about bartering skincare services for your website maintenance? Perhaps having the salon cleaned on an ongoing basis for a series of massages or facials. The object is not to be exact in the barter in terms of absolute value in a dollar sense, but the perceived value. What you need to consider is what the swap or barter would mean to you and to the other person? In beginning to work out the relative value of the barter, you could use dollar value – your service you will barter is priced at $50 so what you will receive in the barter is service or product also worth $50. This however need not be exact to the cent nor all at the same time. Perhaps you get two services (each priced at $25) bartered for your one service of $50 equal value or thereabouts. While bartering is not business in the usual way of exchange of money for product, it allows a real sense of community to be developed by creating a practical solution of exchange without money. It also allows our needs to be adequately met without the cost to the environment of product production that may be wasted. Bartering allows excess inventory or service to be given for other unused skills and processes at any given time. Bartering creates some negotiating when dealing with dissimilar items, however, this also helps to create trust and foster creativity in a community sense rather than the cold, hard cash – take it or leave it mentality.
in a time sense for when it is more appropriate or convenient for you or the other person.
WHAT CAN I BARTER?
The possibilities are endless and all it takes is a little thought. Consider what do you need and what do you have? Then it becomes who has what you need? Start with the people you The thought behind this article was from a recent trip to the know – friends, family and clients. Perhaps you have a client USA I was talking to a friend who has a medical clinic and who owns a fruit shop – then barter pedicures for peaches. Is she has been bartering for some time. Actually she your client an accountant – possible acne treatment for participates in a specific type of barter termed time-share. accounting services? Maybe you could barter perfect skin for plumbing or waxing for If you think times are still tough economically, window washing, laser treatments for then perhaps you need to think a little landscaping?
differently on how to get services you need
If you have a male client base then I would suggest you start with them. I am not sure why, and to have people take the services you have. but males seem to be more receptive to the barter than females. This may be the macho ‘helping a mate mentality’ – whatever it is, go with it as it This is where time is exchanged as opposed to actual works. Perhaps you could barter skincare services or service, so rather than bartering a laser treatment product for professional business help or other professional consultation for a haircut, she swaps say a half-hour or an hour of time with another person’s speciality and then services? decides what to have in that time. Since this process is outside the normal economic square, then actively think outside the square. Of course, unless you really know the person you are bartering with, there are cautions to be exercised in getting them to uphold their side of the deal. Start slowly with your personal network, and then as you get the hang of it you can expand, and you will find that the people you are bartering with will recommend others to you that they also barter with. Although APAN is not set up as a bartering network, it is a network of like- minded people who do not all do exactly what you do, yet are creatively and professionally aligned; so do use the people you know via APAN to broaden your barter of services and products. At least you could ask “Are you interested in bartering (their service you want) with one of my services or products?”
WHO BENEFITS? The barter may not be for the direct benefit of that person as it could be used for third-party benefit. Perhaps you can barter your service with another professional, yet the barter is for someone else. That is to say perhaps you receive accounting services swapped for your acne treatments for the accountant’s daughter or other family member. As long as there is advantage to both parties and all are happy, it is fair and reasonable, no matter what it may appear like to others. This creates a win-win situation where both parties are happy to receive what they wish without the ‘money’ being an issue. Rather than being an economic transaction, it becomes a sharing of resources between friends.
BARTER CREDITS A more formalised system is in use where barter credits come into play. Here you have a barter ‘currency’, which allows for flexibility in service provision – you might provide the service this week, but do not receive the return service until some later date; essentially banking the barter
In this case there is no value on the service or product other than it takes only the amount of time agreed on. While in the US I also found out about the Echo Park Time Bank, which is in Los Angeles. Here community members have come together and defined Echo Park Time Bank as ‘a collective whose purpose is to facilitate the cooperative exchange of goods and services among its members’. Check out the site at www.echoparktimebank.com. The site has some helpful guidance as to how it works and how you could set up your own (although the information relates to USA).
IS BARTERING TAXABLE? If your barter is for business then the taxman still wants part of it and you must be aware of the tax liability of bartering – yes, that’s right – the tax man still wants his tax. Check this direct web link and go through the table of contents on the right of the page: http://www.ato.gov.au/businesses/content.asp?doc=/conte nt/63086.htm&page=1&H1 Maybe your first barter is with a tax accountant after all. Terry is known as a Master Aesthetician in Advanced Clinical Aesthetics and lectures at medical and aesthetic conferences, both in Australia and internationally, while also being an educationalist in the development of quality assurance learning. He is also a consultant in legislative compliance requirements within the vocational education and training environment. Terry holds membership with the Australasian Academy of Anti-Ageing Medicine (A5M), Australian Society of Cosmetic Chemists, Australian I n s t i t u t e o f Tr a i n i n g a n d Development and the Australian Institute of Managment among others. He can be contacted on 0414 483 758. APJ 93
AESTHETIC INDUSTRY BULLETIN This section will present the latest news, training dates and other Aesthetic Industry information, including International Expo Calendar and Test Your Knowledge section.
Cosmoprof Asia 2009 An industry Report Once again Cosmoprof Asia was held at the Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre, which just gets bigger every time I am there, with Cosmoprof taking much of the newly completed space, which is a lot of space. Big as the centre is, it has only the 2nd phase completed and work was under way for the 3rd phase of building, which will increase the available floor space. Cosmoprof Asia is primarily a trade showcase with only a few educational seminars (12 actually). In 2008, there were 39,467 registered attendees with 1,357 exhibitors, and although official numbers are not yet available for 09, I would say the numbers definitely increased this year. While it is a trade event with many exhibitors taking minimum order numbers, this is not always the case with many selling individual pieces, particularly the machinery, of which there is no end of. Micropigmentation guns to CO2 lasers
and everything in-between is available, along with skincare lines from around the world. One of the great marketing ideas is the use of country pavilions so in the one place you can see what each manufacture and/or distributor from each country has to offer. While a few of the established names in the industry known in Australia are present, most exhibitors are new or recent entrants into the industry and certainly not known in Australia. If you need equipment or products that are not known in Australia then this is the show. It is true to say a whole new world awaits at this exhibition.
This year Cosmoprof Asia used 7 halls, each for a specific industry sector with beauty taking the largest placement with halls 5 C, 5E, 5G. Part of hall 5E was used for hairdressing suppliers. Other halls used were for perfumery, cosmetics and toiletries; Alternative and Asian traditional medicines, Private label and health foods; Packaging, contract manufacturing and raw materials. So whether you are after new salon/spa equipment, raw materials, the manufacturer and/or the labelling for your own products; any nail equipment or accessory you can think of (and I lot you would never think of), it is all here. I spoke with Mariza Nuttall of Good L o o k i n g B e a u t y , www.goodlookingbeauty.com.au, a Sydney-based distributor of equipment and products for her thoughts on Cosmoprof . She liked the concept of having the different halls as you can change between them easily, so creating greater variety on what is being seen and lessens the boredom â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;of another variation of the same machineâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; which I know can happen. Two trends Mariza noticed was the use of water (rather than crystal) based micropigmentation and the number of slimming machinery, particularly using cavitation-inducing modalities, and also noticed innovation in product packaging being well beyond
APJ 94
TEST YOUR KNOWLEDGE
what is seen in Australia. Mariza also likes the networking opportunity as people are there from across the world, both as attendees and exhibitors. All this I do agree with and the other trend I noticed was equipment integration; where the one piece of equipment has multiple modalities, such as IPL at different wavelength, plus radio frequency, plus ultrasonic as examples and being able to use these modalities simultaneously. Next year Cosmoprof Asia will be held Nov 10-12, 2010. The Convention Centre is on the harbour at Wan Chai on Hong Kong Island and next to the Star Ferry terminal, making it very easy to get to if you plan to stay on the mainland across the harbour in Kowloon, which is a great area for hotels and shopping. Do yourself a favour and make next November a work trip to Hong Kong for the biggest aesthetic show in Australasia. Report submitted by Terry Everitt
Here is a chance for you to identify how well you have retained the information from this journal. Why not give these questions a go and then score your efforts from the answers on two pages ahead? Q1. In her article Rebecca James Gadberry identifies three principle areas of consideration when choosing skincare. Name the three areas? Q2. Name the three most popular ingredients that liposomes are made of?
FOR SALE Here is an opportunity to purchase the ENERGIST ULTRA VPL State of the Art IPL machine at an incredible price. We are selling this machine due to a career change. Take your beauty treatments to the next level with this incredible machine that achieves unbelievable results. It will help you increase your profits and attract a wide range of new clients. The machine is like new and in excellent condition. It includes: ! 2 Skin Rejuvenation heads ! 2 Hair Removal Heads ! 2 Sets of Goggles ! A pair of Stainless Steel Eye shields
Purchase price $65,000, selling for $34,500. Training can be arranged. Phone Tracey Hanger on 0438 804 536.
Q3. What is Substitute Cell Membranes (SCM) and how do they differ from simple liposomes? Q4. Platelet-Rich Plasma is considered an analogous method of skin rejuvenation. What does the term analogous mean? Q 5. What genetic expression of the skin does the new VitaminChip Skin Gene Test examine? Q6. What is the main activity of red LED light that aids skin rejuvenation? Q 7. According to Dr Hadley, how can we increase our stem cell numbers and have a boost of health and restoration so it is happening at an optimal level? Q8. What are the four activities that Microcurrent systems perform on the skin and body? Q9. Name the wage award that relates to the beauty industry and when will the latest amendment be implemented? Q10. According to Dr Dzung Price the cause of allergy or sensitivity is due to the sum of certain multiple factors. What are those factors that she has presented in her article?
that are not only making a name for themselves, but honouring the industry they represent at national platforms. April Jorgensen, Principal of the Australasian Academy of Cosmetic Dermal Science, was recently announced as the winner of the Nokia Business Innovation Awards for Western Australia. She is pictured here with 2009 Telstra Business Woman of the Year Leanne Wesche. Congratulations to April. We wish her and her Academy continued success.
ANOTHER WINNER!
Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s so encouraging to see that our industry has some incredibly capable and motivated women
April can be contacted at the Australasian Academy of Cosmetic Dermal Science Suite 1a Arcadia Chambers, 1 Roydhouse St Subiaco WA 6008 Ph: 08 9382 4788 april@aacds.edu.au APJ 95
FOR SALE – AS NEW DEKA IPL/LASER Compact, portable and versatile unit which is user-friendly, safe and reliable. It comes with two hand pieces with maximum coverage of 8.3cm and a colour touch-screen userinterface, which allows easy navigation and records treatment settings. The unit provides up-gradable digital software, and so much more. It also comes with a full service receipt. This system is FDA approved and complies with the requirements of the Medical Device Directive 93/42/EEC.
Excellent sale opportunity for ONLY $35,000. Sale due to change in business direction. Phone Nella on 08 9209 3299.
BUSINESS OPPORTUNITY Want to run your own Manicure & Pedicure Business at affordable rent and with absolutely no investment?
Available sophisticated fully-fledged Pedispa and Nail Bar within a well-established skin and laser clinic in Brisbane.
! ! ! !
Beauty Business Seminars One of Australia’s most respected beauty business coaches, Caroline Nelson, will be joining forces with multi-award winner Gay Wardle in a series of seminars to be conducted throughout Australian and New Zealand in 2010. The events entitled The Profit-Rich Salon Spa seminars will cover such areas as how to increase your bottom-line,
improve your business skills and gain workable staff management techniques. Gay, who is an expert in advanced skin analysis and cosmetic ingredients, will show you how to move your business from pampering to serious skin treatments.
Centrally located at Alderley – on the main road Close to shopping centre and railway station Open Wednesday and Saturday from 10am – 6pm or until the last appointment. No initial investment – free use of our salon’s infrastructure, Pedispa, Nail Bar and Nailcare consumables for the first month or until stocks last!
Choose one from any of these options to meet your needs: 1. Rental only $50 per week + 20% of all takings including GST or 2. Work as a Free Agent or Consultant at the Clinic and receive 30% of all the takings – that’s absolutely no cost to you, or 3. Make an offer to purchase the equipment and we will through in all the Nailcare consumables in stock absolutely Free. Call us or come in and check it out. Want to know more? Give us a call today. Now isn’t that an irresistible offer?
Phone: Monday to Friday 07 3350 6897 or Wednesday to Saturday 07 3356 1733
If you would like to attend this seminar in your State contact Caroline on 0410 600 440 Or Gay on 0418 708 455.
Caroline Nelson APJ 96
Gay Wardle
found to help fight stomach bacteria and help soothe stomach ulcers. In the 2000s colostrum has been studied for its natural growth factors that may help bodybuilders turn fat and flab into firm muscle, and to assist in anti-ageing efforts. There is now evidence that suggests that it helps support the healthy production of our stem cells.
What is Colostrum? In his article on stem cells Dr Alan Hadley mentions the value of colostrumbased supplementation in supporting our stem cell production, so here is some information on this incredible food. Colostrum is a nutrient presented in a mother’s milk that contains properties that defend the body’s immune system. Thus in entering the world, Nature has made provision within the mother’s milk to support the newborn from the onslaught of environmental toxins and to keep the baby strong. This is why it is of benefit to breast-feed new born babies. The properties of colostrum promote a healthy immune system. Helps fight infections and immune-related diseases. Provides gastrointestinal support and helps slow down the effects of ageing. For adult supplementation colostrum is usually derived from cow's milk, so it is a natural health food. It contains a complete formula of essential vitamins, minerals, essential fatty acids, amino acids, immune factors and growth factors. First milking bovine colostrum from cow’s milk has been used by people all over the world and throughout history to support the immune system and as a natural, complete whole-food dietary supplement. Many people also take it for help with dieting and with their antiageing health regimens. Discovery Of Colostrum Benefits ! In the 1940s colostrum became popular for use by people suffering from rheumatoid arthritis and other age-related problems. ! In the 1950s colostrum was a source of natural antibodies, which helped lead to the creation of the polio vaccine. ! In the 1970s and 1980s colostrum grew in popular use against yeast infections, viruses and the flu, and auto-immune problems. ! In the 1990s another benefit of colostrum was discovered. It was
Indio Partners with Ovarian Cancer Australia Indio Skincare is proud to announce a partnership with Ovarian Cancer Australia to help increase awareness of the importance of early detection. Indio will be providing new initiatives for this wonderful cause and are committed to using indio as a tool to send this message to women both in Australia and through their international distributor network. Indio Ovarian Cancer Awareness Pack The indio packs wholesale for $67.50 & retail $135.00. CLIENT OFFER: Purchase a smooth emulsion (RRP$135.00) and receive a free indio dry skin rescue mask valued at $72. 10% of all sales will be donated to Ovarian Cancer Australia. Each Pack will contain important information on early detection. Early detection has shown 85% of women go on to beat Ovarian Cancer. Please do all that you can to get behind this wonderful cause.
Indio’s Dry Skin Rescue is a deep hydrating mask packed with botanical extracts and potent anti-oxidants, providing extra moisturisation and assists in reduction of premature ageing. Leaves the skin feeling soft and supple. Indio Smooth Emulsion using a blend of advanced wrinkle-smoothing formulations. This age fighter helps to plump lines, improve skin firmness and reduce the appearance of premature ageing. Also fights free radical damage, making it a superb anti-ageing skin care product.
Contact indio for further details 02 9669 6858.
ANSWERS TO TEST YOUR KNOWLEDGE A1. 1. The standardisation of ingredients in a product, 2. Targeted delivery systems and how they work, 3. The implications of the “use-by-date”. A2. Lecithin, phospholipid and phosphotidylcholine. A3. Substitute Cell Membranes (SCM) take the encapsulation of ingredients several steps further than liposomes as these vehicles mimic a cell’s membrane much more comprehensively than a simple liposome. A4. Analogous means having the same function, but coming from a different part of the body or organ. For example by extracting plasma from the patient’s blood and reinserting it in other parts of the body such as the face to plump up wrinkles. That platelet-rich plasma is considered as analogous material. A5.Rejuvenation, moisture,
whitening/pigmentation and inflammation. A 6. It stimulates fibroblast cell activity in the skin, which increases the production of collagen and elastin. A7. We can increase our stem cells through exercise and through the use of high-quality colostrum-based products. A8. Microcurrent increases blood flow, stimulates cellular activity, stimulates ATP and re-educates muscles. A 9. The award that all beauty services will be subject to is called the Hair and B e a u t y I n d u s t r y Aw a r d 2 0 1 0 (MA000005). The latest amendments will be finalised and effective as of the 1st January 2010. A10. Genetic susceptibility, some child-rearing practices, barrier function default, stress and toxic overload.
APJ 97
Val Glover-Hovan
IS COSMETIC CORRECTIVE TATTOO AUSTRALIA Australia’s First and most Respected Teacher and Practitioner of Cosmetic Corrective Tattoo, recommended by Beauty Professionals, Medical Practitioners, Cosmetic, Plastic and Laser Surgeons
Val Glover-Hovan. Australia’s best known Practitioner and Teacher of Cosmetic Corrective Tattoo, since 1985. Recommended by Cosmetic Laser Plastic Surgeons and Professional Associations. Treatments in all states of Australia, as seen on Channel 9 with Kerri-Anne Kennerley. Val has created wonders for some of the most famous personalities in Australia and USA. Luscious Full Lips or Lip Blend, Lipline, Eyebrows and Eyeliner and Corrective Cosmetic Tattoo of Face – Breast – Body. By appointment Only. Sydney, Brisbane, Melbourne, Adelaide, Perth. Make Up that Won’t Wash off!
Merry Christmas &A Happy New Year
COSMETIC TATTOO AUSTRALIA CLINIC For further information contact Cosmetic Tattoo Australia +61 2 9938 2111 696 PITTWATER ROAD BROOKVALE NSW 2100 AUSTRALIA (Westpac Building Corner Winbourne) sales@hovansgroup.com.au • www.cosmetictattooaustralia.com
eyes
®
n
making
Ever dream of having fuller longer, thicker eyelashes? Wake up to Heavenly Curls Eyelash Enhancer and transform your lashes to their full potential
Back in stock – new formulation, new packaging now with 7.0ml of product! A gentle non-irritating formula that promotes the appearance of longer, fuller, more lustrous lashes & brows.
Available at leading beauty salons or purchase online at: www.hovansgroup.com.au
Results
not promises
For further information or to place an order contact Hovan’s Group +61 2 9938 2111 • tollfree 1300 88 66 55 696 PitTwater Road Brookvale nsw 2100 australia
sales@hovansgroup.com.au www.hovansgroup.com.au