APJ Vol 8 2011

㤵 㜵

㈵

Aesthetics Practitioners Journal

㄰

Journal

AESTHETICS

PRACTITIONERS

The official publication of the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network ISSN: 1836-9812

Volume 8. 2011

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

An Industry ㄰

㜵

㈵

2011

Volume 8.

㤵

Legend Maureen Houssein-Mustafa MEDAL OF THE ORDER OF AUSTRALIA 2011

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

A World of Skincare The only choice for the Specialist Skincare Professional!

With over 30 years experience in product development, Christina Cosmeceuticals is committed to producing scientifically advanced skincare solutions with dynamic combinations of traditional botanicals and cutting edge ingredients. Targeting deficient and excess skin functions, our R & D team carefully develops products that correct and heal complex and multifaceted skin conditions safely and consistently.

Christina’s formulations and treatments have been extensively tested and backed up by solid and proven clinical results, putting the company at the forefront of the skincare industry. IT JUST WORKS!

Building Product Lines that Achieve Optimal Results Christina’s treatments are designed in easy-to-follow step-by step protocol overviews, instructions and guides to facilitate ongoing procedures. Each Product line is multi-stage holistic treatment that addresses a specific skin condition by targeting the biological and environmental causes and symptoms, both internally and externally.

Through a natural synergy between multi-stage treatments and home-use products, Christina’s product lines continue to delight clients by performing beyond their expectations with truly remarkable results in the short and long term.

Education, Innovation, and Professional Advice – Our Commitment to You Christina is committed to provide extensive, in-depth and hands-on training workshops, seminars and conferences At Christina, we believe that healthy skin results are empowered by education, innovation and professional advice. We are committed to supporting the cosmetic professionals to enable the confident treatment of the widest range of customers from prevention and treatment, to maintenance of healthier, younger looking skin.

We train professional skin experts by conducting in-depth workshops including hands-on trainings, seminars and conferences, and offer a collection of training DVDs, protocol overviews and marketing materials for both continued education and promotional use.

Global Presence and Recognition Distributed in over 40 countries worldwide, Christina maintains strong, dedicated, hands-on partnerships with its global partners, distributors, skincare professionals and their customers. In addition, Christina’s strong, global professional presence is highly regarded by international experts in the skincare field and their clientele.

We look forward to reaching more individuals worldwide, improving the health and appearance - one treatment at a time.

Introduce CHRISTINA COSMECEUTICALS into your business and watch the dramatic results in your skin solutions and profits.

SKIN FACTORS PTY LIMITED TOLL FREE 1800 824 282

www.christina-cosmeceuticals.com.au

Editor’s Note

㄰

Editor Tina Viney 07 5593 0360

㤵

㄰ 㤵

Paul Taylor will share some of their valuable knowledge. This is the direction of the future and we want to encourage you to grow your knowledge in these areas and identify subtle changes that you can start introducing to support your clients' wellbeing and overall results.

㜵

㈵

Welcome to the first issue of APJ for 2011. You may have wondered when it was coming, but it has finally arrived and what an issue we have for you, a bigger and better one.

2011 is shaping up to be an eventful year. First the cyclones, which brought with them devastation and a great deal of grief to many in the community, and in particular, some within our industry. It has been heart-warming to see the industry rallying behind colleagues to support them in times of need as many have donated goods, products and money to give a tangible helping hand. Check the CEO’s Report for a full outline of what is happening.

On the other hand we have a wonderful achievement to celebrate as one of our own has been honoured with the Medal of the Order of Australia. Maureen Houssein-Mustafa, principal of the Australasian College Broadway in Sydney was the first in the beauty industry to be awarded such an honour. No doubt this is an achievement that will also bring recognition to the industry.

You will be inspired when you read her story.

As of the autumn issue of APJ you will note that we are stepping up our inner health articles as research reveals the role that internal factors play in skin ageing and longevity. In this issue we are introducing two new writers who will present to you interesting research information.To help us understand the body better Dr Karen Coates and

While in the past cellulite reduction was something that was considered “wishful thinking” and potential results dubious, now with the advent of ultrasonic cavitation, credible results can be assured.

The boom in body-shaping services is very much on the rise, as are slimming and detoxification services brought about not only by the modern lifestyle of poor eating, but also due to the continued acceleration of stress levels in modern society.

Are you prepared to move with the times and offer new credible solutions to your clients? This issue of APJ will certainly provide you with great food for thought.

Several articles will present you with educational information to help you make informed decisions on how you will accommodate the growing shift in consume demands.

Why not make this the year of growth and progress? Check out the Interest-Free loan facility (pages 48-49). This new service has the potential to help you grow your business through a more reasonable and affordable repayment plan for your clients.

May this year bring you closer to your dreams and aspirations. And remember we are here to help you make it happen.

Tina Viney Chief Executive Officer Editor APJ

Typesetting & Graphics Mark Viney Advertising and Marketing Tina Viney Phone: 07 5593 0360 Email: info@apanetwork.com Mark Viney Phone: 0412 177 423 Email: apj@apanetwork.com Fax: 07 5593 0367

㤵 㜵

㈵

Makeup – David Cranson Hair – Jodie McCabe

APJ 4

㈵

Publishers Kharis Enterprises Pty Ltd Design, Production and Artwork Kharis Enterprises Pty Ltd Produced for Aesthetics Practioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd ACN 136 987 169 ABN 25 136 987 169 Web: www.apanetwork.com Print Post Approved.

Circulation 6000 Accounts Manager Laraine Coyle 02 8004 5936 accounts@apanetwork.com Accounts Payable Aesthetics Practioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd (APAN) PO Box 5448 Q Super Centre Qld 4218 Journal Advisory Board Terry Everitt (Education) Wendy Neely (PR & Marketing) Dr Douglas Grose (Scientific) Caroline Nelson (Business) National Advisory Council John Fergusson Terry Everitt Bill Anton Kathleen Begley Gill Fish Vanessa Kirkham Maureen Houssein-Mustafa

ISSN: 1836-9812

The Aesthetics Practitioners Journal is the official publication of the Aesthetics Practioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd, a network organisation established to service the needs of the aesthetics industry in the area of professional development and business networking. The Aesthetics Practitioners Journal is published quarterly for the benefit of its members and subscribers and aims to inform and educate its members on better business practices and industry advancements.

Cover: AUSTRALASIAN All editorials and articles that are submitted for publishing remain COLLEGE BROADWAY the property of Aesthetics Practioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd. Reproduction in part or in whole is not permitted without prior Phone: 02 9571 8288 written authorisation by the publishers. Every effort has been Fax: 02 9571 8277 made to ensure that all scientific and technical information Email: info@australasiancollege.com.au presented is as accurate as possible at the time of publishing.

Web: www.australasiancollege.com.au However, members and readers are highly recommended to also Please see page 10-13 for further details. seek external advice from their accountant, registered financial CREDITS: Photography – Martin L Poole adviser or healthcare professional for their recommendations.

㄰

㜵

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

APAN INDUSTRY REPORTS AND NEWS 8-9 15 30-31 32-33 36-38 50 51 70-71 72-74 92-95

product performers

㄰

CEO's Report APAN Membership Aesthetic Industry Bulletin Celebrating Aromatherapy Defying the Status Quo – Lady at Bay – A salon in transition APAN Manifesto APAN Staff Membership Member Profile APAN Regional Expo and Conference Industry Report – What lies ahead

㤵 㜵

㈵

SCIENTIFIC RESEARCH, ANTI-AGEING AND INGREDIENTS 14 40-41 44-47 60-62 64-66 68-69 84-85 86-90 98-99 106

Embracing the Warrior – An essential guide for women Scientific News Renewed interest in Pomegranate – The skin and health super food Alkalinity – The key to longevity The inner living beauty plan The Brain-Body Connection and Longevity Botox – Safety, results and therapeutic use Pigmentation revisited – A scientific approach Putting the love back into Love Handles Renewed interest in the benefits of aloe vera

BUSINESS, PERSONAL AND PROFESSIONAL DEVELOPMENT 22-24 26-28 34-35 48-49 56-57 76-77 78-79 80-83

Current Marketing Trends – Good, Bad and Downright Ugly Business in Brief Attributes of a Successful Team APAN introduces a new Interest-Free Finance Service Australia's National Paid Parental Leave Scheme Social Media Marketing – How the new trend can boost your business growth What do clients buy when they come into your salon?

Spotlight on Products

EDUCATION, TREATMENTS AND TECHNOLOGY 10-13 16-18 52-53

㄰ 㤵

Reaching new Milestones for Beauty and Aesthetics The Evolution of Contemporary Advanced Training Ensuring your technology is giving you Optimal Treatment Results 58-59 Organic versus Cosmeceutical Skincare – Should you use both?

96-97 Common Mistakes and Corrective Procedures in Cosmetic Tattoo 100-103 Body wraps and masks for wellness and skin renewal 104-105 The facelift through natural means – Facial Exercises

㄰ 㤵

㜵

㜵

SEMINARS, EXPOS AND CONFERENCES ㈵

25 42 91

Salon/Spa Blueprint for Profit Workshop AustralAsian Integrative & Aesthetics Workshop 2011 Cosmoprof Asia

㈵

APJ 5

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

㄰

Skin brightness reaches a new level with

SKEYNDOR URBAN WHITE When time and the environment diminish the dazzle from the skin, Skeyndor's URBAN WHITE has been uniquely formulated to recover and restore the glow and brightness of the complexion.

Expertly skilled in banishing blotchy marks and pigmentation left over from sun-loving days, Skeyndor's latest line, URBAN WHITE, is every therapist's dream come true as it is also equally as deft in erasing lines and making tired and dulling skin just a memory.

The complexion-enhancing URBAN WHITE professional treatment and take homecare products feature a patented complex, in addition to an innovative and unique combination of bioengineered skin brighteners, cell-renewing peptides, vitamin C and mineral rich, pure Thermal Spring Water. This clinically proven formula will effectively reduce the appearance of all types of hyperpigmentation, renew clarity, refreshing the skin and restoring its vitality and vibrancy.

The breakthrough formulation inhibits the pigment production pathways to interrupt melanin deposits. Antioxidant and antiinflammatory agents ensure its effectiveness in clearing and reducing existing marks and preventing future hyperpigmentation for all skin types, even the most sensitive.

Skeyndor's URBAN WHITE products contain the high-powered and non-irritating Phenylethyl Resorcinol, an alternative to kojic acid. In fact, research studies confirm that it is twice as effective in lightening skin as kojic acid and also offers advanced antioxidant benefits.

Phenylethyl Resorcinol acts as a potent melanogenesis inhibitor, while effectively clearing the appearance of skin discolouration and providing skin-boosting benefits to minimise the appearance of lines and wrinkles. Arginine, an effective amino acid, acts as an anti-ageing bullet to enhance skin tone and firmness. Arginine further works to improve texture, elasticity, stimulate cell renewal and restore optimum hydration levels to the skin.

㤵 㜵

㈵

URBAN WHITE delivers effective skin brightening, hydrating and line-erasing ingredients for an immediate polished and refined complexion and remarkable luminosity. Its advanced formulation delivers cutting-edge tyrosine inhibitors, resulting in evening out the skin's tone and significantly reducing the appearance of UVinduced hyper-pigmentation.

For those clients with skin-tone issues, URBAN WHITE provides a superior and high-performance solution. It includes an Advanced Professional Facial Kit and supported by seven (7) products for home maintenance between treatments. These include New Skin Foaming Cleanser, Anti Pollution Shield Mist, Shield Day Cream, Overnight Serum, Spots Eraser Cream, Shield Hand Cream and Matt Compact Powder with SPF. For effective pigmentation treatments with added anti-ageing benefits introduce SKEYNDOR URBAN WHITE to your treatment menu and achieve results that will impress your clients and grow your business.

Call Vogue Image Group on 1 800 554 545 or (03) 9821 0033 for more information and specific URBAN WHITE training dates.

㄰

㄰

㤵

㤵

㜵

㜵

㈵

㈵

㄰ 㤵 㜵

Enlightened Whitening

SKEYNDOR URBAN WHITE

㄰ 㤵 㜵

A new breakthrough for PROFESSIONAL RESULTS ㈵

in combating PIGMENTATION

㈵

A clinically proven answer to one of the most stubborn skin conditions – hyperpigmentation.

SKEYNDOR URBAN WHITE is a state-of-the art clinical-strength formulation that delivers exceptional pigment-combating ingredients to transform the skin's appearance.

DUAL ACTION – it achieves skin brightness and luminosity, while visibly reducing the appearance of lines and wrinkles for a glowing and youthful-looking complexion, all this without harsh ingredients. ㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

㄰

Active ingredients to boost results include: ! Phenylethyl Resorcinol – considered the most advanced nonirritating whitening ingredient ! Arginine – a natural anti-ageing amino acid SKEYNDOR URBAN WHITE offers a complete salon/clinic treatment range that is supported by effective homecare products to maintain and enhance the treatment results.

VOGUE IMAGE GROUP 1 800 554 545 (03) 9821 0033 info@vogueimagegroup.com.au

㤵 㜵

㈵

CEO’s REPORT

㄰ 㤵

In adversity keep motivated, for often the best comes from difficulty. Norman Vincent Peale

㜵

One of the most tragic reports we received was of a college principal and salon owner in Milton Queensland who lost both her businesses and her home. Nicole Kratzmann is the principal of AKISS Academy. Losing everything, she turned to her insurance company who assured her at the end of the week that she was covered, only to return to her four days later and inform her that she is not due to an interpretation to her policy.

The government offered her $1,000 from the Premier's Relief Fund. Having lost over $300,000 worth of equipment the devastation was enormous. We contacted several supply companies to alert them to the need and I am pleased to report that several companies reached out to Nicole to offer equipment and products.

㈵

AD

㈵

While various community and government bodies instigated financial relief initiatives APAN identified another way to support salons in need. We chose to set up a conduit between those in need and those who could help with items they would like to donate. Over 25 individuals and companies responded and we were able to set up a Flood Relief Directory with these items for use as we identified needs. I would like to sincerely thank all those who reached out to contribute in this way.

ORK

From our feedback there are individuals who have lost their businesses as well as their homes.

What could be more traumatic? Even if the buildings were salvaged the walls have to be all stripped back to their frame. Anything plastic or porous had to be disposed of because of bacterial contamination. Faced with the immense task of rebuilding their lives and businesses several salons are struggling, not only financially, but also emotionally.

㜵

A salon owner, Luisa Caruana from Victoria, was conducting a special fundraising day on a Sunday and proceeds were directed to a very grateful Nicole. In Western Australia another spa owner, Karen Briffa, generously offered to approach APAN's WA database to appeal to salon owners to also raise funds. We communicate daily with Nicole with words of encouragement and support and we will continue to direct stock and suppliers that can assist her to retrieve her business. We will keep you informed of progress. Meanwhile, if you are aware of any salon that is rebuilding after the floods and is in need of supplies please contact us on info@apanetwork.com.

VISORY

February was a difficult month as we investigated the impact that these events had specifically on members of our industry. As an aesthetics organisation APAN had an ethical and moral obligation to address the specific needs of clinics, salons and spas in the regions that incurred damages. I believe that as a community of practice there was, and still is much that we can do with compassionate concern.

㤵

㈵

CTITIO NE PRA

While the beginning of the year greeted us with adversity as a result of the cyclones in several areas of Australia, resilience for survival within our industry is strong.

㄰

㜵

TW

S

㤵

RS

Dear Colleagues and Friends

AESTHETIC

㄰

NE

NATIONAL ADVISORY COUNCIL As an organisation APAN believes in accountability. Apart from its Management Board APAN also has an external body to which it reports and gains recommendations. The APAN National Advisory Council consists of a cross-section of experts from a diverse range of disciplines, including medical, government, training and education and marketing and PR. I am pleased to report that on the 27th February this year the APAN National Advisory Council met where a full day of strategic planning was conducted. Several areas of growth were identified and steps have been put in place for the future development of new initiatives that will offer members even better services and support. I would like to acknowledge and thank the current members of the APAN National Advisory Council for their support recommendations. These are: John Fergusson, Terry Everitt, Bill Anton, Kath Begley, Gill Fish, Vanessa Kirkham and Maureen Houssein-Mustafa.

㄰ 㤵

NEW STRATEGIC PARTNERS As we continue to look at ways to support the industry there are two key areas that we have identified, which salons would welcome support and help in: ! Growing their client-base ! Helping clients gain financial services to purchase their products

㜵

㈵

APJ 8

㄰

We are delighted to announce that we have two new Strategic Alliance Partners who will provide you exactly that.

㤵 㜵

㈵

H.S.B. MARKETING Robert Rawlings is a social media marketing expert and the director of H.S.B. Marketing. After several meetings and negotiations with Robert we can confirm that H.S.B. Marketing is offering APAN Members very attractive social media packages at SPECIAL MEMBER PRICES that will save you thousands of dollars. You can either appoint him to set up your social media from scratch or to improve your existing social media tools so that you are more effectively capturing new clients, engaging their interest and enticing them to contact you for further details. Websites, Facebook, Blogs, U-Tube and Twitter are the tools that are currently contributing to the growth of most businesses. They are very specialised tools and while some have set them up they do require specialist skills to maximise their potential. If you would like further information please contact Robert Rawlings at H.S.B. Marketing phone 07 4183 0285, mobile: 0429 093 852 or email: rob@hsbm.me www.highspeedsocialmarketing.com and if you are an APAN Member, please quote your membership number and request your special discounted rate, (See article in pages 76-77).

INTREST-FREE LOANS Another facility that we have identified with the assistance of Beauty Plus Insurance is a credible financial lending company, who specialises in medical and cosmetic loans for clinics. We have approached them to introduce a service exclusively for our members that will allow your clients to take out an interest-free loan for a period of up to six months. This is an excellent service that can increase your business up to 30% according to their statistics. If you are interested in introducing this service to your clients please contact us by email: info@apanetwork.com. or phone 07 5593 0360, further details on pages 48-49).

REGIONAL EXPOS This year we will be continuing on the success of our first regional expo and seminar, which we will be naming BUSINESS AND PROFESSIONAL DEVELOPMENT EVENTS. Our first was in Queensland, however, this year we will be staging one in Canberra and one in NSW. If you have any recommendations for locations that you believe would be suitable we would love to hear from you and welcome your suggestions. Please check our website www.apanetwork.com for dates and locations to attend.

A5M CONFERENCE The A5M Medical and Aesthetic Conference will once again be staged at the Sofitel in Melbourne this year. Please check details in this journal and plan to attend. It is a very worthwhile investment and promises to be of a high calibre.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

APAN PREMIER CLUB As of April 2011 APAN is introducing the APAN PREMIER CLUB, which consists of companies that provide reliable products and services with a proven reputation. Many of these companies will be featured in this journal as advertisers. As we identify quality suppliers we will be bringing them to your attention. Please check our website for our PREMIER CLUB MEMBERS and support these companies.

㄰

MANIFESTO In the industry APAN stands for credibility and standards and as such it is important that we present what we stand for. Please check out our Manifesto in this journal as it will allow you to see if you can identify with the values and our mission.

WE ARE HERE TO HELP YOU

㤵 㜵

㈵

The purpose of APAN is to support the industry it represents. As a member-based organisation APAN believes very much in being relevant, supportive and inspirational. Daily our phone Helpline is kept busy with enquiries of a diverse nature from salon owners, staff members, or even student graduates who are overwhelmed and need guidance to make it into the real world. Our members know that their fees are put to good use to provide them with the guidance, support and direction that can often make the difference between success and failure.

In this capacity we do not take our commitment and responsibility lightly.

Much work on a daily basis goes into staying in touch with a constantly changing world and in packaging this information to inform our members of important changes. For example did you know that as of the 1st of January 2011 the Small Business Fair Dismissal Code had changed?

Knowing the new rules can take a lot of stress off a salon owner. It is such information as well as new industry developments that keep us busy, with our objective being to make your life easier by having critical and valuable information available to support you.

If you are not a current member here is your chance to join. If you join now you will receive two free gifts a DEFCOM DISCOUNT CARD (valued at $35) that will allow you to gain shopping discounts, as well as the wonderful book

by Dr Karen Coates Embracing the WARRIOR An Essential Guide for Women. This is a fantastic book that all women, and in particular professional women, should have. It is valued at $30, but it is available as a FREE GIFT if you join by the 30th June 2011.

Furthermore, the first 20 people who contact us and join will also receive a fantastic gift from Jane Iredale valued at $120. This is definitely the time to join APAN as a member and enjoy the endless benefits. You can download a Membership Application Form from our website www.apanetwork.com. Phone us for further details on 07 5593 0360 or email: info@apanetwork.com. Small progressive payment options are also available.

Committed to your progress.

㤵

Fantastic Gift From Jane Iredale Valued At $120.

Y RR

Tina Viney Chief Executive Officer

HU

20 Y NL

O

㄰

NEW MYSTIKOL

㜵

TM

㈵

Visionary eye makeup in five super natural shades

jane iredale 1300 850 008 www.margifox.com.au

APJ 9

highereducation ㄰

㄰

㤵

㤵

㜵

㜵

㈵

㈵

Reaching new Milestones for Beauty and Aesthetics

by Tina Viney I am currently reading a very unique book called Yes You Can by Sam Deep and Lyle Sussman. It covers a variety of difficulties or challenges that we often face in life and then gives a list of several reasons and ways that point to how we can beat the odds and rise above adversity. The list of “yes you can” options are so inspirational and motivational. ㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

I know a woman who would love this book. In fact, she could easily add several chapters to it through her own experience. Her name is Maureen Houssein-Mustafa. A master at overcoming adversity, Maureen boldly ventures where 'angels fear to tread' and never ceases to amaze the world with her incredible capacity for reaching beyond the ordinary for the extraordinary. Whatever she sets her heart to, she achieves it. Just five foot three in height, it is sometimes hard to believe how small her stature is, for she is indeed a larger than life human being.

A huge entrepreneur and an incredible visionary, Maureen is characterised by her quest for achievement. Whatever she undertakes has her trademark of excellence. She dreams big, has an insatiable capacity for hard work, but by far her most honourable and strongest quality is her incredible generosity in giving back to others.

Maureen Houssein-Mustafa is the Founding Director and Chairman of Australasian College Broadway, a Registered Training Organisation in Hair and Beauty that is now recognised as the benchmark college in Australia. On Australia Day this year Maureen was the proud recipient of an Order of Australia Medal. She was honoured for her contribution to vocational education and training and for her strong community contribution in a variety of charities and humanitarian causes. This is the first honour of its kind to be awarded in the beauty and hair industry.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

APJ 10

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

WHO IS MAUREEN HOUSSEINMUSTAFA? For an achiever of grand scale she was born on the wrong side of town.

Born and bred in the tough neighbourhood of Redfern, Sydney, Maureen Houssein-Mustafa grew up in a first-generation Cypriot Turkish migrant family when times were hard in the 60s, particularly for an ambitious young woman. Partially out of necessity, along with ample willpower, Maureen started her career at a very young age.

She found her niche in sales when she joined Joyce Mayne, proving herself quickly. Maureen was invited to establish and head up the Furniture Division of the company, which later became the retail giant Domayne.

Ready for a new challenge, Maureen opened her first beauty salon in the Inner Western suburbs of Sydney. Within a short period of time, and after some hard-learnt lessons, Maureen grew her business to an impressive five locations across the area. After selling the business and with a renewed sense of direction, Maureen became the General Manager of a chain of salons in the Eastern Suburbs.

Although she tripled the turnover in just a few years, Maureen saw first-hand that staff training and high standards were severely lacking in the Australian Beauty Industry.

With 98+ multicultural educators and staff, who among them speak 28 different languages, Maureen has selected the very best team of professionals and industry achievers. Many of the staff members have worked internationally, which allows them to provide students with innovative and extensive training backed by their years of industry experience. The College prides itself on the accommodating work conditions offered to staff, such as working remotely, flexible work hours, being able to bring children to work during school holidays, and offering equal opportunity to staff of all backgrounds and ages.

㄰

In terms of courses, the College offers a great variety to meet specific students’ needs and career goals, ranging in cost from $950 to $29,500. It also provides job placement assistance and works as a Free Placement Service to the Hair and Beauty Industries. With over 4,000

㤵 㜵

㈵

This got her thinking – what if each employee was trained by a credible college, would graduate with strong qualifications, and from day one present professionally? This would not only raise the standard of the industry but would attract students both domestically and internationally. This quickly became Maureen's passion and motivation, which led to the birth of the Australasian College Broadway in Sydney.

THE COLLEGE The Australasian College Broadway (the College) was established in 1994 as a wholly Australian owned company. It is now recognised as the benchmark College in Australia offering Nails, Beauty, Makeup, Hairdressing and Business Management qualifications all under one roof. Not one to rest on its laurels, this year the College is extending its offerings to include Aged Care, English and a number of other qualifications, each with a pathway to Higher Education.

Maureen commenced the College with a $1,600 outlay and just six students when it first opened its doors. Nearly 17 years on and the College has now been independently valued at $30 million. It has the capacity to accommodate 1500 domestic and international students, taking courses across different skill areas yearly. The recent expansion of the premises, which spans over 8,500 sq metres, makes it the largest private Hair and Beauty College in Australia. ㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

The College is a Registered Training Organisation (RTO) accredited

by VETAB (NSW Vocational Education and Training Accreditation Board) and is able to deliver over 23 nationally endorsed qualifications. Built on Maureen's philosophy of industry excellence, the College was the first private RTO to be awarded the prestigious Training Provider of the Year in 2000 by the NSW Department of Education and Training. For two years running the College won the “Battle of the Colleges” as judged by the International Hairstylists Society. In 2009 the College was also selected as a Finalist in the Telstra Business of the Year Awards in New South Wales, a proud moment for everyone.

Technology for the Beauty and Aesthetics industry is experiencing rapid growth with constant new developments on the rise. However, in terms of qualifications, how well is the industry equipped to transition into the modern era of sophisticated, high-tech and advanced procedures not just for now, but also for what lies ahead? Learn how one training provider is set to change the educational landscape and elevate the Industry to a whole new level. successful work placements to date, the College's record of consistently providing highly trained staff to industry reflects the emphasis placed on students being 'industry ready' when they enter the workforce. All courses are delivered using the principles of competency-based training, and the College is very focused in its role of taking responsibility for training tomorrow's professionals.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

VET FEE-HELP The College was also the first Hair and Beauty training facility to be approved by the Government as a VET FEE-HELP provider, joining a small handful of private Colleges in Australia with this status. VET FEE-HELP, which is an income contingent loan scheme, allows students to study VET (vocational education and training) accredited

㈵

APJ 11

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

Diploma, Advanced Diploma, Graduate Certificate and Graduate Diploma hair and beauty therapy courses, and only pay their tuition loan once their income reaches the minimum threshold level for repayment. All courses offered under the VET FEE-HELP scheme provide a pathway to university qualifications.

As such, the College is continuing its commitment to being the best in the business. From 2009 the College began offering specialised business management courses with exciting university pathways.

These courses studied at the College provide credits via Diploma courses that can articulate to Degree qualifications in: ! Bachelor of Business (Small Business and Entrepreneurship) ! Bachelor of Health Science (Dermal Therapies) through an alliance with Victoria University, ! Bachelors of Commerce or Accounting with Raffles School of Design and Commerce

A CULTURE OF GIVING BACK Coming from a challenging background herself, Maureen has instilled a culture of giving back at the College. Staff and students get involved in raising funds, donating free hair and beauty services, hosting career days and providing VIP passes to beneficiaries from many not for profit organisations.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

Maureen has a particular interest in supporting the people of Glebe, Redfern and Broadway. These are the people that have supported the College from day one and Maureen has sought to repay that support.

In 2010 the College formed a strong alliance with NASCA (National Aboriginal Sporting Chance Academy) and the Indigenous community to provide ongoing vocational scholarships to support NASCA's Career Aspirations Program (CAP) as part of the College's “giving back to community” initiative. The initial program which saw 13 Aboriginal girls qualify with Certificate II in Nail Technology was an overwhelming success and eight participants have continued their studies at the College, with one participant now working alongside her educator as a full-time employee.

WORLDSKILLS HAIR & BEAUTY The College continues its lead role in Industry and this year has again raised funds and provided intensive training for its international representative for WorldSkills, a forum that develops awareness of and respect for trade skills excellence both nationally and internationally via highly competitive skill competence testing competitions. A recent fundraising event hosted by Maureen raised $15,000 for Ms. Jessie Gladwell, this year's Australian WorldSkills entrant in the Hair and Beauty Category.

WorldSkills, hailed as the pinnacle of global skills, trades and technology competition, is a biannual event that sets precedence for world-competency industry standards. The WorldSkills Competition has been in operation for over 40 years and is hosted each time in a different country. It attracts over 1,000 competitors who simultaneously compete in 45 skill categories during four days of intense competition.

㄰

Maureen believes that this competition is vital for benchmarking standards within our industry. “For many of the Australian entrants who are at the start of their career, the only way they can compete and represent our country is through private funding and support.

We've been very impressed by the generosity shown by our industry leaders and friends,” Maureen said.

㤵 㜵

㈵

Maureen graciously opened her home and purse to host the cocktail party, which thanked several companies and individuals that were willing to invest in the youthful future of the Industry. Jeanette Allen, Chair of Board of Directors, WorldSkills Australia, who also attended the event, said, “We were delighted with the support shown by Maureen and her peers at the event. Jessie, the guest of honour, was completely overwhelmed by the encouraging words from the attendees and their ability to dig deep during these tougher times. It's certainly given her a huge boost to go for gold at WorldSkills this year and we're looking forward to tracking her progress”. To hone her skills further, Jessie received additional training and mentoring at the Australasian College Broadway by a number of top educators at the facility to prepare for the competition.

Jessie did win Gold in 2010.

For the 2011 national finalists, Alex Odgers (Beauty) and Alexis Scott (Hair), who will be representing Australia and competing at The International WorldSkills Competition, Maureen has pledged $60,000 and will also be offering additional training and mentoring for these two entrants at the College.

NEW INITIATIVE – INSTITUTE OF HIGHER LEARNING Maureen also told us of an exciting new initiative currently in development as the MHM Group is now in the process of establishing its own higher learning institution to accommodate its own Degree programs as well as research facilities.

“We have just submitted an application to become a higher learning

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

APJ 12

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

㄰

institute with the introduction of the Bachelor of Applied Health Sciences (Clinical Aesthetics).

Having researched industry needs we have had overwhelming support of the content of this qualification, not only by the industry, but also by several professional bodies including medical societies. We believe this qualification will give the aesthetics industry a new level of graduate who will be qualified in clinical aesthetics. This will be the first dual-sector facility accommodating VET and Higher Education under one roof.”

“We are currently receiving expressions of interests so please let us know if you would like to be contacted once these programs are finalised. Already we have had expressions of interest from several countries around the world”.

“Additionally, plans are being developed for the establishment of a state-of-the-art Research and Development Centre that will enrol post-graduate students and in addition, employ researchers from all over the world to undertake research in areas such as genome, endocrinology, pharmaceutical and cosmetic chemistry as well equipment technology,” Maureen confirmed.

In a face-to-face interview with Maureen we were able to further capture some of her views that have shaped this incredible woman.

APJ1: What has winning an Order of Australia Medal means to you?

MHM: For me working hard and helping others was part of a culture

㤵 㜵

㈵

nominal fee for product-heavy treatments such as facials, massages, hair colouring etc. On average, the College completes treatments on over 700 clients per week. All our students are required to complete comprehensive work experience with clients through this facility throughout their training with us.

APJ4: Name the three most important values that are the secret to your success?

MHM: I base my success on three important areas, looking after my staff, treating them as individuals and as I would want to be treated, and looking at ways of giving back to the community because I believe that what goes out comes around. In all that I do I always give 1000%.

APJ5: How important are your team members and what qualities do you look for when choosing your staff?

taught to me by my father. It therefore comes naturally to me, I don't even think about it. To be acknowledged for my contributions was extremely humbling and a great honour.

MHM: You have nothing without your team. They are the ones that

APJ2: You have always been a visionary and entrepreneur. Do you ever get scared about moving into unknown territories, and what keeps you grounded?

APJ6: Why have you chosen to be associated as a member with APAN?

MHM: No, I am not fearful of change. If you have clear goals about what you want to achieve and adequately research and prepare for where you want to go, you should just get on with it. That does not mean that you will not have challenges. The best way I cope with challenges is not to take myself too seriously.

can help you shape the future. When choosing staff I look for passion and commitment. If these qualities are present the rest will follow.

MHM: I didn't want to just be a member of an Association I wanted to be part of an active industry network. Networks are the modern structures of the future. In the 60s and 70s Associations were the only structures that represented an industry or profession. However, networks are now the modern service models as they offer greater flexibility to meet the needs of businesses and the members they represent.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

㄰

APJ3: In a fiercely competitive market the demand for student graduates who are industry ready is very high. What strategy do you have in place to ensure that your students can offer prospective employers the very best?

Maureen Houssein-Mustafa is leaving her mark on an industry she is passionate about. She is an excellent advocate of one of her famous sayings that “one person can make a difference”.

㤵 㜵

If you are looking for quality staff or would like information to further your qualifications please phone 02 9571 8288 or visit www.australasiancollege.com.au.

㈵

MHM: In order for students to acquire practical workplace skills, the

College opens its doors to the public for free treatments with a

APJ 13

essentialreading With over 50 combined years of practical experience, research and study within both the health and fitness industries, Master Coach, Vincent Perry and Medical Practitioner, Dr Karen Coates have together created an easy-tofollow regime designed to put us firmly on the path to optimal wellness.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

The authors give us simple and exact instructions on managing health challenges specific to our modern-day life.

Several chapters of this 176-page book are devoted entirely to some of the most important health issues confronting us today; dealing with stress; managing and preventing common ailments such as osteoporosis; understanding depression and lowering cholesterol as well as hormonal issues.

From the Author “Modern scientific research is constantly confirming what our own common sense and intuition have been suggesting to us for generations - that the essence of great health lies buried within the bedrock of our ancestral foundations, in the building block of good nutrition and movement.

We have been meticulous in providing compelling research sources for the information presented.

Over 80% of the references contained in Embracing The Warrior are from published medical journals. The remaining 20% of references originate from the herbal and natural healthcare professions, which are currently enjoying more and more researched validation of their historical record of prudence and efficacy.

It matters not whether you are a male or a female, we all need to be warriors in our own territory. By that I mean that we need to be strong, vigilant, responsible and in control of our survival and the survival and protection of those who are under our care.

Embracing the Warrior - An Essential Guide for Women is an incredible book written by two highly qualified and successful individuals, Dr Karen Coates and Master Coach Vincent Perry, who share their ability to achieve exceptional results with people with whom they consult to help them achieve health and wellness.

Dr Coates is a medical practitioner (University of NSW) who also ㄰ 㤵

holds qualifications in Obstetrics from the Royal Australian College of Obstetricians and Gynaecologists, Honorary Clinical Tutor, School of Community Medicine, University of NSW and is a Member of the Australian College of Nutritional and Environmental Medicine. She is also a dynamic international speaker on health and wellness issues.

㜵

Vincent Perry is a Registered Nurse and holds a Bachelor of ㈵

Information Technology (Griffith University). WHSO. Sikaran Arnis International Black Belt Champion, Dual Australian Kung Fu Champion and the Founder of Potential Unlimited Mixed Martial Arts Academy, Gold Coast, Queensland.

“Contained in these pages is essential and easy to follow information for maintaining a healthy brain and efficient body well into your older years.

“Our aim is to encourage a positive shift in your thinking, a shift that will ensure your first priority is to: Do Yourself Good.”

Embracing the Warrior is an incredible book packed with scientifically-validated information, but extremely easy to read and very interesting. It is an amazing resource to help women better understand how they can take control of their health, wellness and energy levels and gain valuable information not only for themselves, but also for the benefit of other women they come in contact with.

There is a wise saying, “You can only take others where you have been”. ㄰

To purchase your copy of Embracing the Warrior – An Essential Guide for Women phone APAN on 07 5593 0360 or email info@apanetwork.com – the cost is $30 + $4.50 postage and handling.

If you are not a member of APAN why not join today and we will send you a copy of this book as a gift for FREE.

㤵 㜵

㈵

APJ 14

㄰

㄰

㤵

㤵

㜵

㜵

㈵

㈵

ORK

DV

TW

A

S

S ER

STHETI AE C

CTI PRA TION

E I S O RY N

APAN WHY SETTLE FOR JUST RECOGNITION WHEN YOU CAN HAVE IT ALL

Recognition Benefits & Rewards Join Australia's leading Network and Standards Body in the Professional Beauty and Aesthetic Industry AESTHETICS PRACTITIONERS ADVISORY NETWORK

]Access to industry intelligence with strategic understanding and direction from the industry’s most experienced

㄰ 㤵

through a unique mentoring service ]Flexible modern organisation able to meet the rapid changing needs of the industry ]Strategic Network Partnerships provide opportunity and quality services at discounted rates ]Gain recognition and credibility through association with the industry’s best ]Tangible benefits including DEFCOM Discount Card and cost effective choices in membership ]Membership open to all areas of practice and business Y RR HU 0 2 Y NEW ]Excellent on-line resources L MYSTIKOL ON Visionary eye makeup ]PLUS BE REWARDED with (if you Join APAN by 30 June 2011): in five super natural shades

㄰ 㤵

TM

㜵

]A gift of the great Anti-Ageing Book “Embracing the WARRIOR” Valued at $30 ]Plus be one of the first 20 to Join APAN under this offer and receive a gift pack from Jane Iredale of the New

㜵

jane iredale 1300 850 008 www.margifox.com.au

㈵

MYSTIKOL Visionary Eye Makeup valued at $120

CTI PRA TION

ORK

DV

TW

A

S

S ER

STHETI AE C

E I S O RY N

㈵

For further information please contact APAN on 07 5593 0360 Email: info@apanetwork.com or visit www.apanetwork.com and download a Membership Application Form.

advancedtraining ㄰

㄰

㤵

㤵

㜵

㜵

㈵

㈵

The Evolution of Contemporary Advanced Training

by Gay Wardle Having identified the extensive need for advanced skin analysis training that also incorporates integrative technologies is why Gay Wardle is introducing and delivering a new Training Program for salons and their staff in 2011. This training program aims at empowering aesthetic and beauty therapists to raise their knowledge and skill-levels to more confidently achieve the advanced level of treatment results that are now expected of them.

THE COURSES WILL INCLUDE:

! ! ! ㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

Advanced Skin Analysis Modern high-tech technologies Advanced Protocols and Procedures

In this article Gay explores the changing needs of the industry and offers solutions that will allow you to move forward with confidence in your profession and in your business growth.

The evolution that is occurring in the beauty and aesthetic industry means that the skills a modern beauty therapist needs fall beyond the scope of their initial training. While the basic training delivered in the industry is still valid, there is now a greater need for additional and more advanced training. This training will allow the current beauty therapist or aesthetic practitioner to take advantage of new equipment, new treatments, and recognise the skills of other professionals with

whom they can work collaboratively to complement the services they can deliver.

THE NEW PERSPECTIVE Before I discuss this subject in greater detail I want to put these training needs in the context of their relevance to your business.

Client preferences are changing and there is now a large proportion of our client base that is demanding longer-lasting results. To this group, a youthful appearance is now valued more than ever before. Through the Internet and social media consumers are now becoming more and more aware of the new treatments that can produce greater results than previously. To meet the needs of this client group and to take advantage of the business opportunity it offers we need to adapt our businesses so that we can appropriately meet with these expectations. ㄰

The solution as I perceive it, is to effectively split your services to address two separate categories: ! Pampering treatments that facilitate relaxation and wellness, and ! Corrective and advanced services that address and correct skin conditions and create lasting anti-ageing results.

This also means that you need your staff to become focused on developing skin-treatment programs that are delivered over weeks rather than simply focused on delivering a one-off treatment on the

㤵 㜵

㈵

APJ 16

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

㄰

day. To achieve this you need to implement specific training that gives your staff the knowledge and skills to meet the needs of the client and the business.

㤵 㜵

While training your staff may require an investment of time and resources, there are two benefits – better treatment outcomes and an incredible increase in staff job satisfaction.

㈵

In my experience, staff love a challenge. They love to feel that they are going forward and they love to know that they are making a difference.

There is no better way to bring out the best in your staff than to develop them as experts in their field. This can only be achieved with the correct training that will teach them how to be able to critically think of their options in treatments and how to make informed choices based on sound education regardless of what brand or product they are using.

A NEW LEVEL OF TRAINING FOR THE PROGRESSIVE THERAPIST My driving purpose when I developed my new range of Advanced Aesthetics Training Courses was to provide a new set of short courses that could effectively merge traditional knowledge with new scientific information.

The courses are designed to step-by-step up-skill and improve the progressive therapist's capabilities of understanding what is happening at a cellular level within the skin. Armed with this knowledge, they then will be able to more accurately select the right technology, protocols and procedures to achieve an advanced treatment outcome.

The ultimate objective of these courses is to empower therapists to transition with greater confidence into delivering a new level of treatment result that will meet with the changing demands and expectations of both their clients and the aesthetic industry itself.

Some of the areas I have identified as being relevant to assisting the progressive therapist are in the areas of new skincare and equipment technology, new treatments, and their effective integration.

PERSONALISED TREATMENT PROGRAMS ㄰ 㤵 㜵

As I mentioned earlier a common skill that is needed is to understand the importance of writing treatment programs for your clients, rather than one-off packages. This first involves analysing the skin with more accuracy and making use of modern-day skin analysis technology to give us a better understanding of what is happening within the client's skin. It also means refreshing and enhancing our knowledge of the skin structure and physiology so that we understand it in greater depth. With this understanding you can analyse your client's needs at a more detailed level.

㈵

Helping this procedure is the fact that the new skin analysis devices have progressed immensely and they give you the chance to see

Before & After Laser Treatment deeper into the skin and be more precise with what you are recommending to your client. These devices are great for creating a baseline to measure your client's progress and help you identify a wide range of anomalies in the skin such as wrinkle depth, vascular abnormalities, melanin readings and an indication of sun damage to the skin.

If you have enhanced your ability to know what you are seeing then you can match a solution to it and you will see progressive improvement over time.

EFFECTIVE INTEGRATION OF TECHNOLOGIES The next level of training that I believe is important is to expand your knowledge of modern-day treatments so that you have more options available to you to tailor a solution to the problem or concern you have identified in your client’s skin. New training programs that will teach you how to integrate using equipment in treatments are vital. It wasn't that long ago that words like cosmeceuticals, IPL, laser, hydrafacials, LED, advanced facials, radio frequency, ultrasound, etc., were like talking another language. Now they are part of the everyday reality in our profession. But how well do we understand these technologies?

And do you know the most effective way to integrate them to address various skin conditions and concerns?

I believe it is important that therapists learn the principles of how to effectively integrate different modality in the right sequence to achieve better results for different skin types and conditions. Using just one technology may be limiting. However, learning how to effectively use a number of treatment modalities together can not only help them achieve better results, but also more long-lasting ones.

Some examples of these equipment-based treatments that complement our existing treatments include using a skin-nourishment program in the weeks leading up to an IPL rejuvenation treatment so that the skin is healthy prior to the treatments. You may also combine LED treatments after IPL rejuvenation treatments to improve and prolong the results of the treatment, or combining cosmeceuticals with skin needling to improve the results of both.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

APJ 17

㄰

㄰

IDENTIFYING LIMITATIONS AND WORKING WITH OTHER EXPERTS

㤵

Part of modern-day training is to also identify the limitations of what we can achieve with our services alone and recognise when we need to work with other professionals to get the best results for our clients.

Part of what I cover in my new courses is how to work with cosmetic and plastic surgeons to deliver improved skin preparation prior to surgery, as well as maintenance programs after cosmetic surgery procedures so that clients achieve optimum results from these procedures. You will also learn what procedures you may refer a client to investigate from a medical professional. By working effectively through such a referral system with medical professionals it will also give you the opportunity to build an amazing client base that will also strengthen your own business growth.

㜵

㈵

㤵 㜵

㈵

SUPPORTING RESULTS WITH APPROPRIATE MAINTENANCE PROGRAMS One final area of training that I believe is important when delivering advanced treatments is writing maintenance programs that will help support the results of the intensive-treatment programs you deliver.

This is a very important area of my training as it will allow you to confidently tell clients in advance that if they invest for an intensivetreatment program for a short period of time, you can then design a lower-cost program to ensure that the results are maintained. This will encourage them to invest in the advanced procedure, as they will be assured that those results can be sustained. Once they achieve the results, they will move on to the maintenance program. With this level of satisfaction they will be ready to trust you the next time you recommend a new program.

THE IMPORTANCE OF EDUCATION I truly believe that advancing our skills is a necessity in order to maintain our relevance in modern times. I think it is vital in helping you appreciate and understand your true value and worth in the industry. With your skills at a higher level and a wider array of treatment solutions in your toolbox you will be able to make a difference to your clients’ satisfaction and self-esteem. This will benefit your business immensely and allow you to draw even greater satisfaction from all that you do!

Gay Wardle is greatly respected as a trainer and educator in the aesthetic industry. She has owned successful salons and has won numerous industry and professional awards for her accomplishments.

She has trained numerous beauty and aesthetic therapists throughout Australia in Advanced Skin Analysis and IPL protocols and techniques. Gay is currently pursuing a Bachelor of Dermal Sciences with Victoria University.

Gay's new Training Courses are designed to bring a new level of knowledge and confidence through sound science and proven training principles. Gay also trains others on her highly successful strategies that come from a strong understanding of what drives a salon to succeed and how to be known for exceptional results.

㄰ 㤵

㄰ 㤵

If you have already completed Advanced Skin Analysis training previously you can select a course that will take this knowledge further and give you new skills on implementing successful treatment protocols in advanced procedures. For further information on her courses and a training date near you contact Gay Wardle on 0418 708 455.

㜵

㈵

㜵

㈵

APJ 66

㄰ 㤵 㜵

NEW

㄰

SCIENTIFIC SKIN ANALYSIS FOR DERMAL THERAPIES

㤵 㜵

POST-GRADUATE STUDIES Are you ready to step up your knowledge?

㈵

Gay Wardle is delighted to announce the launch of a new curriculum and training program for aestheticians and clinical dermal therapists who are looking to upgrade their skills.

㈵

Scientific Skin Analysis for Dermal Therapies will allow you to take your training to a higher level that will ensure you improve your skin therapy results.

Gay Wardle

What is different about this training?

In today's competitive environment you no longer need just a better understanding and a more scientific approach to how you view the skin. More importantly, you need to know how this information will best translate when implemented into the treatment room and through its practical use. Theory is meaningless unless it has a dynamic practical outcome. This training will empower you with the knowledge on how to correctly determining appropriate equipment technologies and products for each individual skin type and condition.

THIS TRAINING WILL TEACH YOU: ! A more scientific approach to understanding the skin ! How this knowledge can then be used when selecting equipment technology ! Correct protocols in layering technologies for better treatment outcomes ! How various skin conditions will benefit from specific technologies ! The correct order of application ! What ingredients you should be looking for to address various skin conditions ! Common errors when working with technologies and ingredient interaction ! Why and how to prepare the skin to achieve optimum results

㄰

This course will help you transform how you perform your treatments through a new understanding of the relevance of skin cytology and equipment technology.

You will gain the knowledge that will allow you to more confidently make the right choices that will ensure you achieve the best possible results in your treatments.

㤵 㜵

㈵

㄰ 㤵

Gay Wardle holds extensive qualifications and first hand experience in the correct implementation of advanced protocols for the best possible results. She will help you take the guesswork out of how to achieve premium results in your treatment.

TRAINING COURSES AVAILABLE IN EVERY STATE. CHECK THE WEBSITE FOR FULL DETAILS

ENROL TODAY

Web: www.advancedaesthetics.com.au

For more information and to book your place Phone: 0418 708 455 or Email: gay@advancedaesthetics.com.au

㜵

㈵

㄰

clock and engage the process of slowing down cell ageing. Other ingredients include Beta-Glucasamine, Beta Furctan and Aminoguanidine - all clinically-proven to offer serious antioxidant and anti-ageing benefits to enhance skin renewal and clarity. Other ingredients include organic olive oil, organic aloe vera, Evening Primrose oil, Pumpkin seed oil, Marine oils, Lecithin, Carrot oil, Sage and Chamomile extract, just to name a few. Furthermore, the Anti-Radical Scrub also contains Zeolites a known mineral renowned for its purifying and detoxifying capabilities.

No animal byproducts are used in these formulations that aim to target cell renewal, increase hydration, fight wrinkles and protect the skin from environmental ageing.

㤵 㜵

㈵

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

CLINICAL HE SKINCARE is an incredible investment for any serious clinic or salon that is committed to a strong reputation for results. This male-exclusive, clinical-strength product line will

DEFYING MALE AGEING The male cosmetic market is continuously experiencing exponential growth, as men are becoming more confident in the credibility of cosmetic procedure and skincare in preserving and even enhancing their youthful appearance. New statistics confirm that men are changing their attitude about the issue of personal cosmetic grooming, an issue that previously was preserved only for women. Feeling the need to look youthful and appear dynamic well into their 40s, 50s and 60s has led men to rethink their attitude to skincare and prevention.

Traditionally, men are more decisive in decision-making once they are convinced that something is right for them. This is why unisex products are not so readily embraced. Men need to know that something is made specifically for them, and as far as skincare is concerned they are now looking for formulations that are developed for their needs with them in mind and are differentiated from female cosmetics.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

As a clinic or salon owner do you have a male-specific range? Is this range a clinical product that contains skin renewing and regenerating ingredients or is it just a grooming product? Focusing on a male clientele is a serious market. However, your products need to offer something more than glossy, highly “aftershave-smelling” products that are available anywhere and everywhere.

Clinical Skincare, Healthcare and Equipment have launched their new CLINICAL HE SKINCARE range formulated by A Natural Difference. The range consists of eight incredible products with amazing ingredients to address every male concern for clean, vibrant and younger-looking skin.

㈵

The range contains SUPER anti-ageing ingredients such as Epidermal Growth Factor EGF-DNA that offer telomere protection to extend the life of the skin. Telomeres regulate the speed of our cells' biological

be appreciated by the discerning male client and will allow you to capitalise on this fast-growing sector of the market. Available in male-friendly “flip and squeeze” tubes for ease of use, better antibacterial protection and easy to travel with.

The range includes:

Age Defence Crème with P.P.E. 50ml An invigorating moisturiser with Vitamin A Anti-Ageing and Antioxidant properties.

Glucana Soothing Crème 50ml Use for a more youthful, firmer-looking skin. Great for daily nourishment.

Super Hydrating Sunscreen SPF30+ with Vitamin E 100ml Daily SPF30+ Sunscreen with added moisturising properties.

Zesty Orange Foaming Cleanser 100ml Gentle cleanser to remove daily grime. Leaves skin fresh with a clean, zesty aroma.

5% Glycolic Polymer Crème 50ml Use for softer and smoother skin. Ideal for dry or sensitive skin.

EGF-DNA Recovery Crème 50ml Aids turnover of cells for that fresh look. Great for dry or sunburnt skin.

Anti-Radical Scrub 100ml

㄰

Gentle removal of dead cells without the dry skin effects. Also Free Radical fighter.

㤵

Acne Deep Pore Cleansing Crème 50ml

㜵

Use for an effective clearing of pimples and acne. Great for oily or acne-prone skins.

To place your order and claim your 40% DISCOUNT OFFER (valid to 30/06/11) please call CSHE 1800 628 999.

㈵

APJ 20

marketingtrends ㄰

㄰

㤵

㤵

㜵

㜵

㈵

㈵

Current Marketing trends Good, Bad and Downright Ugly

By Caroline Nelson

Marketing trends have become more specialised and deliver different results. Are you attracting the right client, or are you drawing those who could destroy your business? Caroline Nelson explains As a salon or spa owner, you have a lot of responsibilities. And one at the top of most lists is marketing. It has to be a top priority if you want the business to grow and prosper. However, any successful marketing takes time, money and above all a good, solid plan. This, unfortunately, is where many businesses fail. They simply do not have an overall Marketing Plan, let alone a six or 12-months promotional planner. And without a plan and lacking sufficient customers they are prone to make unwise, often knee-jerk decisions and opt-in to marketing that can seriously damage their business.

Bad or downright ugly marketing can send a business sliding down a very slippery slope from which many never recover. Now while I'm not saying you can always invest in marketing that delivers huge results, you can increase the potential for good results if you do your research beforehand and follow a workable plan.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

In this article I would like to explore methods that do work very successfully in the beauty industry and the ones that either don't deliver or damage. The first thing you must recognise is that we are largely a service industry, and a service industry has a very high labour component.

Marketing that works very well in say a purely retail type of industry may not deliver good profit for a service industry like ours.

We provide professional services, expert advice and

retail products to enhance the results our services deliver. For these reasons I do not believe we should be continually cutting our prices and discounting, but more about that later.

OK let’s get back to developing a good marketing plan, which is essential to the success of any business. It includes marketing research, customer profiling, customer service, advertising, targeting, pricing, emarketing, and several other components. Within this plan is the Marketing Actions or the tactics you plan to use to increase your business’s market share. In the beauty industry this is our six or 12months promotional planner – a planner of events or promotions you intend to attract new customers and to increase loyalty with existing ones.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

APJ 22

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

However, before you start creating your planner you need to take into account just what you want to achieve. Therefore you need to ask yourself several questions regarding the acquisition of new customers, and some of these questions would be:

㄰ 㤵 㜵

1. Do I want more new customers?

2. Do I want these customers to be highly profitable customers?

3. Do I want these new customers to be repeating customers?

4. Do I want these customers to become “clients for life”?

5. Do I want them to purchase both services and retail?

6. Do I want them to purchase specific services, for example, IPL or Photo Rejuvenation with high profit potential?

7. Do I want them to be happy ambassadors who refer friends and family to my business?

㈵

Then you need to ask yourself further questions about what your promotional plan activities should provide your existing customers and some of these questions would be: 1. Are all my existing customers experiencing all the services they could benefit from?

2. What percentage currently purchase their skincare/makeup requirements from me?

3. What areas/treatments of my business produce the most profit?

4. What areas/treatments have the most profit potential?

5. What percentage of my customers actively refers friends and family to my business?

Depending on your individual business and the services you offer the answers from these questions should provide you with a good indication of which type of new and existing customer you need to cultivate. For example, if you answered “yes” to most of the questions related to the acquisition of new customers you would need marketing that attracts a quality type of customer. A quality customer looking for the services of a salon that provides expert professional customer care, the type of care that will convert them into long-term loyal clients.

In other words, you don't want to invest your marketing efforts to attract “bargain hunters” who skip from salon to salon for the cheapest deal. These short-term customers eat into your marketing budget and their acquisition cost is normally greater than the money they spend in your salon. In fact, if your marketing is aimed to attract these “bargain hunter salon hoppers” getting too many of these new customers can quickly reduce profits or even send your business broke. ㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

In recent years we have all seen the type of marketing “$229 worth of beauty treatments for $89”. It was promoted with lots of supposed freebies the potential customers were told amounted to $229 worth of value. We of course knew the true value was not really $229, but in reality it possibly did stack up to around $140.

What this did to the beauty industry was attract bargain hunters who never wanted to pay full price. They expected that every month the salon owner would have another bargain-basement special, and if the salon didn't then they went elsewhere. We are all aware that this marketing method had a departmental effect on future pricing and

in fact has capped the normal treatment price increases across the board in Australia. This is an example of “bad marketing” and has seriously damaged our industry and to an extent stunted growth.

Good Marketing on the other hand should be designed to showcase professional expert ability. And professional expert ability comes at a quality price. To my knowledge I have never seen a professional doctor, cosmetic physician or plastic surgeon advertising at a discount rate. And strangely their businesses are growing profitably.

The truth of the matter is a beauty business is much more profitable with fewer customers if these are quality long-term customers who have a higher average spend than loads of bargain-hunter, low-spending salon hoppers.

Good marketing is designed to deliver quality potential customers to our door. From their exceptional customer service, expert consultation analysis, professional results-driven treatment performed by therapists with good communication builds customer retention. A positive outcome does depend largely on employing qualified therapists and then providing them with on-going training. The thing of it is the type of customer we all want will be influenced to continue frequenting a salon that offers this level of care, as opposed to the bargain hunter who is only price driven. Which customer do you want in your salon – the short-term low-spend, or the high average spend client for life?

Now we get to the downright ugly type of marketing and to be truthful this type of marketing is very scary. It can slow growth, stall profits and in the worst case can lead to the death of a business. I refer to the current market trend of social promotions such as those offered by deal-of-theday coupons that have become wildly popular with shoppers. This type of marketing is the bargain hunter's paradise. They love coupon purchases – what they don't like is to ever pay full price. And they don't need to because there are so many offers out there in couponland. The sad fact is that the vast majority of coupon purchasers are “one-time customers” who buy nothing extra. This is the worst situation for the salon owner, because you have basically given your services away for free.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

APJ 23

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

And don't be fooled by the coupon-company salespeople when they say the offer is just to entice the customer in and then you will be able to sell them products, more services and re-bookings. It just doesn’t happen often enough for you to give so much away.

But if you are considering joining the coupon brigade first ask yourself what is your current rate of gift certificate recipients, how many up-grade the service, purchase retail, or re-book. I hasten to guess the percentage is low, and if it is a low percentage then coupon purchasers up-grading, purchasing products and rebooking will be even lower. Ask yourself why would they re-book at your salon and pay full price next time when all they have to do is buy another low-price coupon and pay only 20-30% of the true price value.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

The most popular beauty coupon I have seen is the $59 package of a one-hour body massage, one-hour facial and a pedicure. To my way of calculating this would take the average therapist approximately three hours to complete – allowing for set-up and clean-up time. Now the way these companies work is they hold 30% of the coupon sale and the salon owner receives 70%. In the $59 case scenario that means the salon owners receives $41.30 for three hours work or $13.76 per hour. Now it seems to me it has been a long time since therapists’ wages were as low as $13.76 an hour. This type of marketing is not only downright ugly, it is in fact commercial suicide for the business owner.

Another ploy the coupon-company salespersons use is to tell you only a small percentage of coupon purchasers will redeem. This may be so, but are you willing to take the risk? In addition, many of these coupons are sold to purchasers who live way out of the salon’s trade area. In fact I have heard of many living up to 30 kilometres away from the salon. But hey, they don’t mind driving this far for such a bargain, but ask yourself, will these people drive that far for the next booking at full price? I don’t think so.

Personally, I have found with the vast majority of salons I coach once they improve salon systems and procedures and train their staff in my methods to up-sell existing customers they never need to resort to bad and downright ugly marketing. We have instead trained their team to expose customers to experience all the services they could benefit from – this is Up-Selling. They have introduced easy systems to help staff improve recommendation skills, thus increasing the percentage of customers purchasing their skincare/ make-up requirements from the salon. They have developed a service menu focusing on treatments that produce high profit. And they have introduced a Referral Program that rewards loyal customers who actively refer friends and family to their business.

I would encourage all salon owners to think long and hard about the way they intend to market and promote their business. My advice is market to increase profit potential and to gain the type of customer you will retain. And if you need advice on how to achieve this I am only a phone call away. ㄰

© Copyright Caroline Nelson 2011

㤵 㜵

㈵

㄰ 㤵

Caroline Nelson is a beauty industry specific business coach specialising in helping salon and spa owners to operate super successful businesses. She will be holding “Salon Spa Blueprint for Profit” workshops in Melbourne, Sydney, Brisbane, Perth and other regional centres over the next few months. For further details please contact Caroline on 0410 600 440 or check her website www.nelsonbeautybusinessmanagement.com.

㜵

㈵

㄰ 㤵 㜵

Reduce Salon Management Stress NOW!!!

Attend the

Salon/Spa Blueprint for PROFIT Workshops

Presented by Salon Spa Business Guru Caroline Nelson

㈵

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

If you want more Clients, more Money, less Management Stress, and more “me time” then you should attend this workshop. These easy to implement business-building strategies have helped thousands of salon spa owners to reach their Goals.

Ask yourself if you want to….

! ! ! ! !

Improve Productivity Increase PROFITS Turbo-Charge Retail $ales Build a Better Team Skyrocket Average Client Spend DATES AND LOCATIONS: Melbourne: 11th April and 10th October Sydney: 2nd May and 29th August Perth: 20th June Brisbane: 3rd October

Testimonial: Caroline's seminars provide excellent business and staff development information. She is ahead of the pack when it comes to guiding salon owners through all aspects of running a successful business in an easy to comprehend and logical way. Her passion and commitment is always evident during her presentations. Thanks for the valuable advice.

Mariana Titeica and Team, Rejuvi Body Face Beauty, Brisbane Qld ㄰

㄰

㤵

㤵

㜵

㜵

㈵

TICKET PRICE: $89.00 p/person includes refreshments, workbook and Management CD.

BOOK NOW Online at www.SalonSpaEvents.com Ph: 07 5528 9440 or 04106 00440

㈵

㄰

㄰

㤵

㤵

BUSINESS IN BRIEF

㜵

㜵

A snapshot of news and information for business owners ㈵

Stealing from the inside

Small Business Fair Dismissal Code We have had several calls about changes to the Small Business Fair Dismissal Code as some were not aware of the changes that have come into effect in January 2011. As employers need to ensure they comply with regulations we remind salon owners that this is one of the reasons to join as a Financial Member of APAN as you can at any given time contact us for support and assistance. For obvious reasons we cannot include everything in APJ. Meanwhile, here in brief is the Fair Dismissal Code.

If you are an APAN member you can contact our office for the complete document.

Application The Fair Dismissal Code applies to small business employers with fewer than 15 employees (calculated on a simple headcount of all employees including casual employees who are employed on a regular and systematic basis). Small business employees cannot make a claim for unfair dismissal in the first 12 months following their engagement. If an employee is dismissed after this period and the employer has followed the Code then the dismissal will be deemed to be fair.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

Employees who have been dismissed because of a business downturn or their position is no longer needed cannot bring a claim for unfair dismissal.

However, the redundancy needs to be genuine. Refilling the position with a new employee is not a genuine redundancy.

The requirements for determining whether a dismissal was a genuine redundancy are contained in section 389 of the Fair Work Act. The Small Business Fair Dismissal Code Checklist attached to this document can assist in determining whether a redundancy is a genuine redundancy.

Further information on the application of the Code, genuine redundancy and unfair dismissal is available at www.fairwork.gov.au or by contacting the Fair Work Infoline on 13 13 94.

Retailers are often aware to look out for customers that are stealing for them, but what if they were your own employees?

Research commission by ADT Security has revealed almost half (43 per cent) of small business employees admit they or their colleagues provide discount or freebies to friends and family.

ADT Security managing director Mark Norton said the advantages over employee theft in small businesses are that owners can oversee every contract or payment.

“The financial losses due to employee theft and fraud can be devastating, with our research suggesting that 43 per cent of small business owners estimate their losses from crime total up to $10,000 annually,” he said.

The survey of 500 small business employees and 500 small business owners across Australia also found that the younger the employee, the more likely they were to engage in 'sweet-hearting'.

They found that 49 per cent of Generation Y and 45 per cent of Generation X admitted to the practice, compared to just 30 per cent of Baby Boomers.

㈵

Furthermore, women (42 per cent) were just as likely as men (44 per cent) to provide discounts or freebies to friends or family.

“Business owners can help minimise the risk of employee theft by performing regular and spot audits of stock and finances, rotating staff through different jobs, creating a positive workplace environment and showing they value their employees,” Norton said. “We would also recommend they implement a comprehensive security plan which identifies security threats and troubleshoots potential weaknesses, as well as installing physical security measures such as intruder alarms and monitored video surveillance.”

APAN does receive calls from members who are experiencing problems with theft from a staff member. If you have any such concerns APAN can assist you with appropriate strategies to safeguard and even eliminate this problem from your business.

An Australian first, retailers are now able to give consumers the ability to purchase goods in or out of store by using their mobile phone. Tough Security Made Easy from Vitag.

Retailers Profit with Design Power Clever retailers are getting back-to-basics to beat the effects of recession with 'The Power of Retail Design'. This step-bystep guide by design veteran Mark Muller will show you how to get back on track for retail success in 2011.

MobileShopper - shopping through mobile phones

Showcase your handheld electronic merchandise on a powered up fully interactive display POD from Vitag. With no visible cords your display looks uncluttered and appealing.

Offer your customers what the Internet cannot...

INTERACTIVITY! VersaMag by Brackley Industries allows customers to interact with electronics.

VersaMag improves customer experience in store by providing the opportunity for customers to touch and try before purchase.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

APJ 26

㄰

㄰

㤵

㤵

㜵

㜵

㈵

㈵

Eftpos fees in negotiation As retailers continue to struggle in a cautious spending environment, they may soon be slammed with higher eftpos fees.

The organisation behind Australia's eftpos payment system, Eftpos Australia Payments (EPAL), has confirmed it is currently in talks with banks, retailers and other industry participants ahead of changes to interchange fees linked to eftpos.

EPAL managing director Bruce Mansfield stated that a decision has not been reached on a new interchange fee model.

“Eftpos interchange fees are one of a number of inputs into the Acquirer's pricing to merchants and clearly any changes to interchange fees will be considered in their pricing models,” he said.

“The consultation process is still under way and no decision has been made on actual rates and implementation dates. When made, we will communicate these changes and provide adequate time for Acquirers to implement them with their customers.”

According to Mansfield, the interchange fees will support EPAL's “investment in the accessibility, security, convenience and efficiency of eftpos”.

Based on unaudited figures released by EPAL, eftpos is the most widely used point-of-sale debit payment network in Australia. The network processed more than one billion transactions in the December half, representing approximately $65 billion. In December 2010, eftpos processed more than $12.5 billion in payments and over 200 million transactions.

Slow but steady retail period The Business Outlook report by Access Economics confirms retailer suspicions that while the Australian economy is standing firm compared to its international counterparts, consumer spending is still at a fragile state.

The report surmises that families are saving rather than spending and that it may be 2012 before “the developed world gets its mojo back”.

However, that emerging nations are showing signs of strength is good news for Australia as this underpins commodity prices and is “stoking up an investment boom in engineering work which looks set to surpass anything we've ever seen before”.

This, coupled with the predicted housing construction upswing and resultant low unemployment rate of 4 per cent expected by the end of 2011, is good news for the appliance sector.

This being said, Access Economic warns that families are “spooked by interest rate rises from the Reserve Bank (and top-ups from the big banks), plus the risk of more to come”. An unwillingness to spend could be further impacted by variable mortgage rates, which could rise by one percentage point by the end of this year.

Online threats to target small businesses Protect your Internet Small businesses are the second most vulnerable target of online threats for 2011, Internet security provider AVG predicts. ㄰ 㤵 㜵

㄰

According Lloyd Borrett, AVG security expert, the threat to small businesses is due to the increasing number that fail to protect themselves properly.

㤵 㜵

“While a growing number of cyber criminals are specifically targeting small businesses, 85 per cent of small businesses refuse to see the danger at all,” he said. ㈵

㈵

“This does not bode well for the Internet community at large as small business owners often do not have proper security policies and enforcement measures that can educate workers how to be safe online and not act in a way that the puts the company network at risk.”

APJ 27

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

Adaptable in-store shelving displays The new trend for moving retail stock Improve your retail displays with the new freestanding shelving systems from SI Retail. If you need flexibility with your store displays, the freestanding shelving stands are ideal.

Available in two styles, freestanding shelving displays are easy to manoeuvre, and since they aren't permanent store fixtures, can be used at various in-store positions to find the most effective selling points. The new freestanding shelving displays are unique to the company SI Retail and have made a positive impact in the retail market.

In order to remain competitive in the retail sectors, unique retail displays are an essential factor that contribute to attracting customer interest. Effective in-store displays increase shopper awareness and enable you to remain at the forefront of competitors. Utilising the freestanding cable display range can fulfil this requirement.

Available in a range of signage and shelving options, the freestanding cable display is a contemporary, fresh and affordable retail display. The modern look of the cable display makes for a distinctive point of difference.

Livewire visually improves how products and signage are perceived and as an invisible system it's designed to ensure promotions and merchandise are the main highlight.

㄰

Choose from the shelf-bracket freestanding display or cable-wire shelving option. The display stands have a silver anodised aluminium finish. Whether it is the Bracket or Cable style, both are approximately two metres tall and designed to suit most shops. Lockable castors are sold separately for each stand, making them easily transportable around your store. Locate your prime selling position with the freestanding cable display shelving system and reap the benefits. Freestanding shelving kits are ideal for displaying merchandise. Both display stands have adjustable shelves to suit your products and desired eye level. They are ideal for store window displays, are stylish and unique and designed to attract customer attention.

㤵 㜵

To find out more about the freestanding shelving display visit http://sishop.com.au/display.php?cPath=27_28

or call SI Retail on 1800 211 122. ㈵

SI Retail also has a range of freestanding cable display systems for signage.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

Work hard, spend more Gone are the days of prawns on the barbie, according to industry analysts IbisWorld, who have listed using the internet and playing video games as Australian's favourite pastimes.

“Perhaps unsurprisingly Internet use, including social networking, web browsing, watching TV and movies online and online shopping, will continue to soak up more of our time as we head towards 2020,” said the IbisWorld report.

The good news for consumer electronics retailers is that video gaming is set to more than double its current industry revenue of $3.6 billion over the next 10 years. “The past decade has seen the market for video games shift from a young, male dominated audience

towards an older and increasingly female demographic, with the average age of the Australian gamer now estimated at 30, and 45 per cent of all gamers being female.”

And of course by delving into the online world more each year, IbisWorld predicts the retail landscape will undergo a “significant cybershift by 2020”.

“In 2011, IbisWorld expects online retail sales to grow by 5 per cent to $12.9 billion to account for about 3.4 per cent of Australia's overall retail spending. By 2020, IbisWorld believes this could be in the range of 6 to 10 per cent, with growth spurred by increasing computer literacy, greater focus by e-tailers on the layout, efficiency, security and reliability of their websites, and continued shift towards online shopping by time-poor, cashed-up consumers.”

NRA joins retail coalition bandwagon |The National Retailers Association (NRA) is the latest to join in the fight on imposing tax on international-bought products.

Representing 3,700 retailers, the group joins the Australian retail giants including Myer, David Jones and Harvey Norman in a national campaign to pressure the Federal Government to level the retail playing field by closing the GST and duty loophole.

It believes the current tax system is disadvantaging Australian business and penalising consumers.

Gary Black, NRA executive director, said in a statement that the government should not have to wait until the results of the Productivity Commission Inquiry to make amendments.

“Every retailer in Australia will inform the Commission that it should remove the exemption, and the case in support of its removal is impeccable. There is no doubt that the exemption from GST and other import costs is being fully exploited by overseas-based retailers and is causing significant damage to local businesses,” he said.

“It is important that the Australian Government move urgently to remove the current loophole. The importance of this issue is being understated and misrepresented.”

㄰ 㤵

The NRA has emphasised the most recent quarterly employment data reveals the pressure the retail sector has been experiencing over recent times.

While total employment for all industries since November 2007 has risen by 6.7 per cent, retail employment has declined by 1.14 percent.

㜵

㈵

APJ 28

on ht n e e g As s Toni y a d To

BEFORE TREATMENT

AFTER TREATMENT

with

HERBAL® AKTIV

PEEL Suitable for: • • • • • • • •

Wrinkles Sun Damage Scarring Pigmentation Acne/Pimples Enlarged Pores Blackheads/Milia Stretch Marks

The original all-natural herbal peeling treatment.

HERBAL AKTIV PEEL® is a skin resurfacing treatment with a 50-year history of success. It is based entirely on dried, crushed herbs, without synthetic acids or chemicals.

Contrary to chemical peels and laser treatments the HERBAL AKTIV PEEL® does not create a controlled injury on the skin to generate new cell growth. Rather the opposite: the skin’s natural 28-day cycle of renewal is compressed into 5 short days. The result is glowing, fresh skin.

Available only from specially trained skin clinics. To offer this outstanding skin resurfacing method to your clients call 1300 301 007 or visit us online at www.herbalpeel.com.au

Call 1300 301 007 or visit www.herbalpeel.com.au

AESTHETIC INDUSTRY BULLETIN

㄰

㄰

㤵

㤵

㜵

㜵

㈵

㈵

HOMEOPATHIC REMEDIES AND THE TREATMENT OF PSORIASIS Homoeopathic remedies are now extensively and frequently used to treat various illnesses and diseases. In fact, homoeopathy is the most widely used medical system in the world, next to conventional medication and treatments. Homoeopathic remedies are considered safe as they use organic and herbal substances for ingredients, thus avoiding the introduction of toxic chemicals in the body. These remedies are also cost effective. The costs of medical care and health are skyrocketing. Nevertheless, homoeopathic remedies offer a cheaper alternative as they promote healing through natural and organic processes.

Homoeopathic psoriasis is an alternative medical treatment approach that attempts to activate the body's immune system to fight psoriasis. Psoriasis is a chronic skin condition that produces patches of silvery scales that cover areas of reddish skin. These frequently appear on the scalp, knees, elbows, buttocks and back.

Sometimes the armpits, genitals, eyebrows, navel, nails, among other regions, are also affected. Psoriasis is a deep condition and the flare-up of these rashes should never be suppressed with medications. Studies have shown that homoeopathic sulfur provides relief for psoriasis sufferers.

Now a new product is promising hope for psoriasis sufferers.

Tinefcon is a tablet derived from plant ingredients to help you achieve healthy skin. Tinefcon has been clinically tested and presented to dermatologists worldwide. Tinefcon is a mono herbal extract of a plant called Sphaeranthus Indicus. This plant, whose Sanskrit name actually translates to cuts off or wards off, has been used in Ayurvedic medicine for over a thousand years to alleviate a wide variety of conditions, from fever to rheumatoid arthritis to skin conditions and more. In fact, it's even been used as a food source in times of famine.

So where does Tinefcon fall on this spectrum of remedies?

Tinefcon is similar to the biologics in that it works to treat psoriasis from the inside out by affecting a certain type of immune cell (specifically, the TNF-Alpha we mentioned earlier). But unlike many other remedies, Tinefcon provides these benefits in a completely natural formula, at relatively low cost, in a convenient

FOR SALE - A great bargain!

A new cutting-edge technology Fusion RF system is available for sale due to change of career circumstances.

Fusion RF (radio-frequency) is the most thrilling, non-invasive, body-shaping technique because it offers you incredible advanced results for facelifting as well as for cellulite and body contouring in the one device.

Fusion RF is designed to uniformly heat the dermis with radiofrequency energy (RF) while protecting the epidermis with built-in contact cooling. The increased temperature in the dermis causes collagen contraction, realignment and new collagen production that results in firmer, younger-looking skin.

This device can substantially increase your business by allowing you to offer scientifically proven, amazing treatment results for full spectrum face as well as body options.

Now you can successfully treat: ! Cellulite ! Complete body contouring ! Loose skin after weight loss ! Non- invasive facelift ! Flabby underarms ! Double chin

Full training is available. For information phone Vivian on 0417 132 706. Price negotiable. pill form, with a much lower risk of side-effects. It can even be used in conjunction with topical and/or phototherapy remedies as part of an overall wellness program.

PROFESSIONAL TRAINING COURSES AVAILABLE Training in new areas is one of the best ways to grow your business. The addition of new services can not only re-energise you, but also allow you to gain new clients and strengthen your cash flow.

Here are some great courses you should consider: * Cosmetic Tattoo – Post-graduate training and refresher courses. Learn how to perfect your techniques and grow your knowledge and skills in this very popular procedure. * Hair Replacement – This is a very specialised, sophisticated technique that is excellent for conditions of alopecia, very fine hair and balding.

It offers very natural and amazing results that will boost your client's confidence. This is a new

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

APJ 30

procedure to Australia and there are only two people qualified to teach it here. The procedure is suitable to both men and women. * Hair Extensions – This is a very popular procedure that requires attention to detail. It offers an excellent addition to your services and will attract on-going and repeat business. * Eyebrow Threading – This is a special procedure that builds collagen in the skin and gives eyebrows an immediate lift effect. This procedure can also be used as an anti-ageing procedure for the face.

Sara Naderi is a fully qualified aesthetician and cosmetic tattoo practitioner as well as a qualified instructor with over 20 years experience.

For further information please contact Sara on 0405 463 636 at Sydney College of Hair & Beauty.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

㄰

㄰

㤵

㤵

㜵

㜵

㈵

㈵

Pure Argan Oil not just for hair The latest rage for glossy and healthy-looking hair is a very light and delicate oil called Argan. The Argan tree grows solely in the South-Western part of Morocco. The oil is obtained from the nut, which looks like a cross between a walnut and an almond. It's a labour-intensive process performed only by native women.

The best kind to purchase is the pure, unadulterated Argan oil, which is a clear yellow liquid, rich in Vitamin E, antioxidants and carotenes. While the oil has been predominantly used for hair it is now finding its way in the skincare market and you will start to see it in body lotions as well as a massage product.

Because of its fine and light consistency it easily absorbed into the skin and is hailed for its anti-ageing effects because it is rich in skin-replenishing components, including flavanoids, oleic acid, linoleic acid and fatty acids.

Argan is not a new oil having been used in other cultures of many years, however, it is now starting to gain popularity in Australia. The benefits of its use are: ! It softens dry skin, soothes dry patches, and improves skin conditioning.

Users of Argan describe the results as amazing and phenomenal, giving them glowing skin. ! Quick penetrating and light in texture without a feeling of greasiness, a few drops is all that is needed for the whole body ! Reduce the appearance of lines and wrinkles and particularly around the eyes, either used alone or in combination with your favourite eye cream ! Use in place of chemical based products to help heal acne blemishes and resulting redness from irritated skin ! An excellent cuticle softener and nail conditioner ! Great for sensitive skin and all skin types including congested skin as it will not clog pores For hair, a few drops on dry ends will reduce frizz. Commonly used to condition hair by applying and massaging a few drops on to the scalp after washing, giving the hair great shine without weighing it down.

In the Moroccan culture Argan oil has been used for centuries on the delicate skin of babies.

How to apply Argan Oil Apply directly to skin after bathing, while skin is still moist, this is a wonderful and simple dry or mature skin treatment. It is also an excellent massage oil for both face and body.

NEW FINDINGS ON THE BENEFITS OF GREEN TEA We know that green tea offers several health benefits, but did you know why? Green tea has high concentrations of catechin, which have strong antioxidant properties. According to Dr Leslie Shen of Texas Tech University these compounds appear to benefit bone health more than any other kind of tea. Early research from Hong Kong also suggests green tea's catechin can benefit the eyes, with indications that the retina and other eye tissue can absorb it. Furthermore, green tea has been shown to guard against heart disease, diabetes, cancer, weight gain and even tooth decay, with recent research findings stating that it can also offer beneficial effects by protecting the body from osteoporosis. This is why women over 50 should consider its regular use. Included in a weightloss program green tea has been found useful in assisting in the metabolism of carbohydrates and for this reason its use in capsule form for great concentrations is very much on the rise.

Sources: D'Antona et al Cell Metabolism 2010, Telegraph.co.uk

Green tea and the skin As far as skin is concerned Australian chemist Bridget Black says that green tea leaf extract is also useful in skincare, which she includes in her own skincare line. She praises the high antioxidant properties from its catechin content and for this reason is now used in anti-ageing products. “Green tea leaf extract is now also found in sunscreens as it is able to extend the product's SPF, as well as suppress inflammation and irritation,” says Bridget Black. On ingredient listings in skincare products green tea can often appear under its botanical name camellia sinensis.

Big beauty companies are synthesising tea to chemically replicate the properties of its compounds called polyphenols, and natural providers are including harvested extracts. Other studies confirm that green tea helps repair the skin and reduces damage from harsh environmental factors, with particular benefits for mature skin.

Cengage Learning Australia – TAFE and RTO writers needed ㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

Cengage Learning, one of Australia's leading educational publishers, is looking for experienced TAFE and RTO instructors to write and/or review digital and online learning materials to support our respected and popular textbooks in the area of Beauty therapy (commencing April).

You will need to have proven experience teaching in TAFE or at an RTO in Australia, and have an interest in teaching and learning, particularly in online learning.

Successful writers will have excellent writing and

computer skills. Familiarity with the requirements of SIB10 Beauty Training Package is essential.

Work will be undertaken on a freelance basis. Payment will be a flat fee and writers will need to be ABN registered.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

Please forward your resume indicating your interest and experience to: Cengage Learning Email: aust.employment@cengage.com Website www.cengage.com.au

㈵

by 12th May, 2011.

APJ 31

aromatheraphy ㄰

knowing that through this knowledge we can help make this world a better place.

㤵

㤵

㜵

㈵

the sense of smell and use changes, Galbanum is a very strong favourite at present. I use it in our No. 12. Body Blend, we call it the GO-GO blend, and also in the Specific Blend 303. It has excellent regenerating properties for face and body and is also wonderful for mature menopausal skin.

㈵

Editor’s note: Galbanum is an aromatic gum resin, also

stirred me deeply as I gained insight into the amazing properties of essential oils. This fuelled my passion and so my journey into the wonderful world of aromatherapy began. I immersed myself into study and eventually developed my own formulations, which are now distributed worldwide and support clients' wellbeing through the purity of essential oils.

known as the green incense as it was used extensively for incense burning by Jewish temples. The oil has a fresh, pine-like top note, which is less pronounced in the odour of the resinoid. The latter, in turn, has a more woody balsamic, conifer resinous character. It is occasionally used in the making of modern perfume, and is the ingredient that gives the distinctive smell to the fragrances "Must" by Cartier, "Vent Vert" by Balmain, "Chanel No. 19" and "Vol De Nuit"

by Guerlain.

and among them I have several lifetime achievements awards. I believe that some people think that at the age of 78, perhaps retirement should be next. However, I love what I do and I am delighted to be able to impart my knowledge of these wonderful oils to others,

Eve: I have many favourite essential oils, but as one's years go by

Eve: In 1968, I heard a lecture given by Madame Maurey, which

Eve: There are so many awards that I have received over the years,

many companies now claim the word aromatherapy and use it as part of their marketing strategy. However, there are many grades of essential oils, and for the professional therapist it is important to ensure that what she accesses is of the highest purity and potency if you wish to achieve their optimum benefit and therapeutic constituents for remarkable wellness and beauty treatment outcomes.

Recently Eve visited Australia and APJ approached her to answer some questions on behalf of our members.

APJ2: Of all your lifetime achievements, which one is the most important to you?

㈵

Eve: There have been overwhelming changes over the years. So

APJ4: What is your favourite essential oil and why?

㤵

㜵

APJ3: Over the past 10 years what changes have you perceived in the way aromatherapy is practised?

Eve also developed an exclusive range of skincare products that use her time-honoured essential oils formulations. Eve Taylor products are only available through salons, spas and professional therapists.

They include over four decades of skincare knowledge and experience delivering products that unite the very best of plant essences with the needs of the skin.

APJ1: When and how did your love affair with aromatherapy start and why?

㜵

But talking of awards I would have to say that the most important moment of my career was to receive the OBE (Order of the British Empire) and being listed on the Queen's New Year Honours List in January 2008. The OBE is given by the Queen on advice from the Government of the day, so this means a lot to me, as it recognised Aromatherapy and the skincare industry as a profession.

Receiving an OBE has brought me many new contacts internationally, and allowed me to meet and encourage college students training in Beauty and Aromatherapy in several countries. The medal was pinned on me by Prince Charles and I must say it was a very proud moment for me. I also have a Royal Warrant signed by the Queen and Prince Philip (Master of the Order) that is framed in our office for all to see.

Celebrating Aromatherapy Eve Taylor is the founder of the Institute of Clinical Aromatherapy in London, England and is regarded as one of the pioneers of modern aromatherapy. Despite the fact that she is 78, Eve still enjoys travelling the world to continue to train and inspire aromatherapists and aesthetic professionals to continue to grow in their knowledge and skills in the effective use of essentials oils for the treatment of face and body.

㄰

㄰

㄰ 㤵 㜵

APJ5: Tell us a little about the body analysis method and how does it assist the practitioner in their treatment?

㈵

Eve: The "Systems of Analysis", which I have developed, aims at helping therapists to address their clients' needs. This wonderful tool

APJ 32

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

will allow them to gain a better understanding of what is happening within that skin and what has influenced its manifestations. I believe that every line on someone's face is not randomly there, it tells a story about that person, thus with the knowledge gained from our “Systems Analysis” therapists are able to read faces and identify underlying causes. This system also thoroughly reviews all aspects of the client's lifestyle and health as well as their occupational activities. This information will assist them to truly customise their treatments.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

APJ6: In your opinion what attributes define a true professional in our industry?

Eve: The mark of a true professional is in the commitment and investment in researching and learning. They must continuously be adding to their pool of knowledge and commit to improving their skills each and every day. To achieve this you need to always apply yourself and this can only happen if you are driven by a love for your profession. If you don't love what you do you are in the wrong profession.

APJ7: What is the best way to stay in touch with advances and changes in the industry?

Eve: Regardless as to whether you consider that you are well trained it is important to attend conferences, seminars and training that will update your information. It is important not only to read, but also study professional magazines and industry journals as well as follow and review news and information presented in the public arena, as you need to identify what your clients are reading and what they are hearing through media and the Internet.

APJ8: What aspect of your work do you love the most and why?

Eve: What excites me the most about my work is constantly meeting and training therapists. But, I particularly love meeting therapists I trained many years ago who are still going forward in their careers. It makes me wish I could have another 30 years or more to continue learning, and watching how it all develops.

APJ9: How many levels are there in aromatherapy and how far has it progressed in the clinical and medical field?

Eve: There are so many levels of aromatherapy that it is almost

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

impossible to list, for example putting a blend in your bath, making you feel good, is this not aromatherapy? Using the essential oil blends for the benefit of face and body care as a cosmetic treatment. This is also aromatherapy. Blending oils and using them on patients in Hospices who are terminally ill, this is also aromatherapy and provides relief and support to those who are suffering, while also providing wonderful care and human contact with people.

Aromatherapy is also used for medicinal use by qualified medical and allied health professionals with great success. There are many useful blends of essential oils that are used to combat infections worldwide.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

Website: www.eve-taylor.com

APJ 33

personaldevelopment ㄰

㄰

㤵

㤵

㜵

㜵

Attributes of a SUCCESSFUL TEAM

㈵

by Tina Viney

Civility costs nothing and buys everything.

Lady Mary Wortley Montague, (1689-1762) Regardless of our generation, age or era in which we live in, there are certain timeless qualities that are universal and the foundation to a successful career or business. These character traits are often referred to as attributes. Identifying and cultivating them can be a worthwhile pursuit as they can contribute to a more successful professional, business and personal life. Here are four attributes that top the list.

DILIGENCE If you want to succeed on the job here's a character quality you need to develop - diligence. I was recently speaking to a distributor who had during the past 12 months established the company's Signature Salon.

“What is your biggest challenge?” I asked her. “It would have to be finding and keeping good staff,” she said. There is no doubt the right staff, make or break any business. ㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

Diligence calls for being self-disciplined, motivated, alert, dependable, and entails following through with your commitments.

Unfortunately it is a quality that is hard to find. When consulting with therapists who are experiencing job difficulties I often ask them “Do you want to prosper? See then that your employer prospers! If you help your employer to grow their business and be successful then you have paved the way for a potential raise and even a promotion.

Without your boss being successful, how can you expect to be promoted or to be given a raise?”

㈵

Diligent workers rejoice in the notion that their employer’s success is also their success, while lazy workers resent it thinking that hard work only profits their employer. I often tell staff that diligence, not politics or manipulation, will get you promoted.

Lazy employees complain about their unfair boss, the biased system, the “favouritism” of staff looking after their boss, and the boss looking out for them. They want the privileges others get, but they are not willing to work for them. It is quite simple – you don’t put in the work, then don't expect the benefits. With time, a diligent worker will get it all – the satisfaction of a job well done, a reputation for integrity, the trust of others, job security, profit, promotion and, most important, the employer’s “well done”.

SKILFULNESS Nothing contributes more to job success than skilfulness. Skilled workers excel by study, practice and hard work. Second best is unacceptable. Skilfulness is not genetic; you don't inherit it, you work for it. You burn the midnight oil, stretch to your limits and refuse to settle unless the job is well done.

㄰ 㤵

Watch a skilled craftsman and your esteem rises at their attention to detail, their refusal to cut corners, their patience, dedication and pride of work. They inspire confidence, respect and trust. As a professional, you should be “raising the bar”. Your work should be known as reflecting the industry standard for excellence. Skilfully performing what you do will help you develop a reputation that will benefit both you as well as the business enterprise you are involved in.

㜵

㈵

APJ 34

㄰

㄰

㤵

㤵

㜵

㜵

㈵

㈵

GRATITUDE

Another attribute for job success is gratitude, and this one is particularly important for the employer. Gratitude and appreciation are virtuous qualities of a true leader. They are a reflection of character. Character is not class-conscious. You don't demand respect, you earn it every day. If you are in a leadership role, know well the condition of your staff and pay attention to their needs and identify their strengths. Good employers and supervisors make it their business to know the needs, strengths and weaknesses, potential and motivational levels of their staff. As a result of gratitude and appreciation of others employee sick time is reduced, morale improves and productivity and quality work soars.

A pay increase isn’t always the best motivator. Sometimes your thoughtfulness, understanding and interest in your employees are more powerful motivators. When was the last time you asked a staff member about their loved ones – the children, their partner or their pet? The old “kick them in the pants” philosophy is a sure-fire way to generate resentment and undermining. Being respectful and caring invites cooperation, makes allies, not adversaries, of employees and brings out the best in everybody.

ADAPTABILITY Adaptability is an incredible attribute. It can be defined as feeling comfortable about changing your thinking and actions in order to suit different conditions or situations. It involves adjusting one's behaviour to work efficiently and effectively in light of new information, changing situations and/or different environments.

Adaptability allows you to maintain effectiveness when experiencing major changes in work tasks or the work environment; adjusting effectively to work within new work structures, processes, requirements or cultures.

Having an adaptable attitude will allow you to cope better with change and view new situations as opportunities for learning or growth, while guiding you to focus on the beneficial aspects of change.

MINIMISING STRESS IN THE WORKPLACE Developing positive attributes should be part of our pursuit for excellence. Success is our careers and businesses will very much depend on the application of positive attributes that collectively build character and reflect integrity. ㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

㄰

As true professionals we have a responsibility to engage not only in professional, but also personal development. Character is a reflection of the qualities built into an individual's life that determine his or her response regardless of circumstances.

㤵 㜵

Ultimately, a strong and virtuous character will give us the resilience to better cope with mental and emotional stress. Positive attributes will allow us to overcome adversity and move forward with honesty and integrity.

㈵

APJ 35

salonprofile ㄰

beauty centre evolved from an ordinary beauty salon into quite a success story, due to the brains and passion and astute leadership of Lesley Morgan-Wesson.

㤵 㜵

“I entered the beauty industry by accident,” Lesley told us, as it was her daughter who studied beauty therapy, mum just put up the money to buy a salon. In fact, Lesley's background is in speech therapy and communications, for which she holds qualifications.

㈵

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

“I had been yearning for a change, so when we found this lovely, but run-down salon in Neutral Bay I immediately realised its potential and saw a welcome opportunity.

What was incredulous was that the previous owner had, within less than the two years she had owned the business, depleted what was originally a very successful (and Neutral Bay's first) salon. Typically, as I now realise after almost eight years in business, its demise was inevitable because she relentlessly discounted services and had no idea how to run a profitable business.”

And so in 2003 Lesley purchased the salon and put in place a business plan with a view of developing it into a leading anti-ageing spa. “At the time I did my due diligence, there were only 14 competitors throughout the local area, but over the years that grew to over 50 salons and spas. Since the GFC, however, most have closed or sold their businesses. Over the past two years I've had four owners approach me to buy their businesses.”

Defying the Status Quo

LADY AT BAY A salon in transition

By Tina Viney

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

In 2010 APAN launched a membership incentive campaign with a $20,000 business stimulus package of products and services, which was drawn after the International Beauty & Spa Expo last year. The lucky winner was Lesley Morgan-Wesson, the owner of a leading anti-ageing spa and beauty clinic located at Neutral Bay in Sydney.

Lady at Bay Anti-Ageing Day Spa was in the throes of being upgraded and the extra items and services from these winnings could not have come at a better time. This multi-award-winning anti-ageing and

Despite the challenges, Lesley is confident that their hard work has paid off. “With the global financial crisis there appears to have been a shift in consumer spending… consumers want much more value for money and the competition is no longer salons and spas, but every other business vying for the retail dollar. Of course, certain considerations need to be made in terms of offering customers value for money, however, there is no need to panic; salons should more carefully look at the implications of continually dropping their prices. In our area it is not uncommon to find 30-50% price-slashing in many windows, which concerns me,” Lesley points out.

Despite the shifting state of the economy, Lady At Bay has chosen to take advantage of opportunities as and when they arose, and as a consequence made huge investments into state-of-the-art technologies as well as continuing to maintain the delivery of highquality services and excellent client care. “In fact, our purchases have enabled us to move to the delivery of high-end services, which targets a brand-new and more affluent market. These moves have ensured that the business can afford to provide its clients with quality services without the need to cut corners,” Lesley said.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

APJ 36

㄰

㄰

㤵

㤵

㜵

㜵

㈵

㈵

Lesley also went on to say that in her opinion the beauty industry is dysfunctional: “Most salon owners don't realise that by dropping their prices they are not only devaluing their services and the worth of their expertise, they are also going broke slowly but surely. It takes about two years for the average salon owner to go broke after never having even earnt an adequate weekly wage. Of the 50 salons and spas that existed in our immediate area, not one is in existence today… they have all either closed or changed hands. Meanwhile, we are seeing nail bars popping up offering cheap services, many of whom employ migrant staff who are not paid award wages, superannuation, sick pay or holiday pay. The standard of OH&S training is very dubious, as is the standard of hygiene practices.”

So how do you go counter culture to such a trend we asked Lesley?

TAKING MEASURES FOR GROWTH

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

themselves short of a profit. I become exasperated realising that salon owners don't understand that these 'shoppers' are not going to help grow the businesses, in fact, they take the opportunity and eventually send salons broke.

“It is important to the profitability of our business that we attract genuine long-term clients, who will value our expertise and high standards and keep returning because they know they get what they want, which is improved and better results accompanied by a high level of client care. We place a great deal of importance in educating our clients, which we do throughout the whole process from meet and greet to our monthly newsletters. In fact, many of our clients are meticulous researchers who investigate thoroughly before purchasing. Once they identify it they are prepared to invest in it.

These are the clients we seem to attract.

“I'm disdainful of those companies that discount skin care for a quick buck! Providing a quality service and an improved result for the customer can only be delivered by qualified therapists. Quality skin care and cosmetics are not commodities that should be flogged at bargain prices… ”

“It is important to promote improved results plus value to our clients, so we continually train, train, train our staff. Since the GFC, consumer psychology has changed. Clients will only pay if they are assured of quality and value-for-money, which they look for with greater vigilance,” said Lesley. On the other hand, there is a growing trend for discounting, especially with the abundance of Internet shopping sites, which has created an opportunistic sector in the market. These 'shoppers' are happy to hop around for a quick, discounted service, but that is all they ever take; most are not prepared to continue attending that salon, or to purchase any of the product recommendations. And it's repeat business that returns a profit… not the one-offs. This means, in essence, that the salon has not gained a client - they have sold

㄰ 㤵 㜵

“As a group of business owners, we need to be pro-active and position ourselves correctly in the market, rather than being reactionary and engage in panic tactics that bring the industry's reputation and standards down. This ultimately destroys the prestige of the industry we're a part of.

㈵

APJ 37

㄰

have suggested that mortality rates are even higher. These are serious statistics that graduating students and employees would be advised to take note.”

㤵 㜵

“My recommendation to beauty therapists is… become really good at what you do… become an efficient, productive and loyal employee and in this way you'll help a committed business to prosper, taking you along for the profitable ride.

Do this and you'll secure a solid income, improve your abilities and develop career opportunities.

Unless you are prepared to dedicate yourself to becoming a statistic you should think a thousand times before becoming a business owner.

㈵

“I appreciate that stores need to discount stock to move it, but we are providing products and services that require a continued investment in on-going education and which take time to deliver. Our products and services are not commodities that should be flogged at bargain prices.

“We have always only ever recruited staff who have gained distinctions in their qualifications, but nowadays we additionally require that they be experienced professionals. Even so, that's just the beginning… we continually invest in on-going training and education to ensure that our team maintains the professional level of service for which we have won awards. I believe our Sydney-wide reputation is built upon the careful systems we have in place and the policies and procedures, which create duplicable high standards of performance.”

SO WHAT DOES LESLEY LOOK FOR WHEN EMPLOYING STAFF? “There are four primary attributes we look for in staff,” says Lesley.

“These are a work-focused attitude, loyalty, integrity and a passion for doing what's best for the clients and the business.”

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

“Businesses constantly closing down or changing hands is not a good look for the industry… it reflects incompetence and lowers consumers' respect and their esteem of us as a profession. The business of beauty is not an easy one. In fact, it is quite complex and we are seeing more and more that successful salons and clinics are not managed by hands-on practitioners, but rather by individuals who are putting the effort and time into working on the business. They focus on identifying strategies to sustain and grow the business, rather than being immersed in the day-to-day delivery of treatments. This approach has a much stronger chance of survival.”

LADY AT BAY'S VISION So what does the future hold for Lady at Bay? Lesley has identified an increase in consumer demand for advanced technology-based procedures to help prevent and reverse the signs of ageing. Consumers want non-surgical alternatives to surgery and there is a surging interest in preventative medicine and the need for treatments to deliver a wellness component. “We work closely with nutritionists and medical professionals to ensure that our clients receive better results… not same as. As much as possible we also address and support our clients' internal wellness so that their aesthetic results are even more successful and long lasting. This approach is very much part of our philosophy and is appreciated by our clients, who know they can rely on us to offer them the very best with equal consideration and support for their wellbeing as well as through our aesthetic antiageing protocols.”

MISCONCEPTIONS

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

We asked Lesley what she perceived is the greatest misconception in the industry and she did not hesitate. “One common trait is that beauty therapists, after a few years in the industry, believe that because they can do a facial they're good… they think they're experienced enough and therefore they can succeed in running a business. Spare me!

Many of them have stars in their eyes… they romanticise about running their own business and getting away from the frustrations of working for someone else. But frankly they just don't have the skills. I can assure you that, despite having started my career with a degree in business, running a salon has been one of the most difficult tasks I've ever undertaken, and on several occasions it has brought me to the end of my limits. Running a beauty or aesthetic salon, spa or clinic requires highly developed business skills and a tenacious commitment to surviving.

“Business mortality statistics never change. According to the ABS, in most sectors only 2% of businesses will survive beyond a 10-year period. In fact, 40% will not survive past the first year and 80% will not survive beyond five years. In the beauty industry my observations

WHY DO YOU SUPPORT APAN AND APJ? “Simple really - compatibility! I have always aspired to high standards… for example, if I lost everything tomorrow and I had to become a street sweeper to earn a quid, I'd be the best street sweeper in the country. Therefore when I heard about APAN I thought, Hallelujah… at last… someone after my own heart! After speaking with Tina on a few occasions the deal was done… I like what she stands for - principles and integrity. So rare to meet people who are honourable and who embrace transparency and honesty as a way of doing business. She's my type of gal!

㄰ 㤵

Lady at Bay Anti-Ageing Spa & Beauty Centre is located in Theo's Arcade, 202-212 Military Rd, Neutral Bay NSW 2089 and can be contacted on (02) 9909 3326 or info@ladyatbay.com.au.

㜵

㈵

APJ 38

㄰

㄰

SCIENTIFIC NEWS

㤵 㜵

㤵 㜵

This section presents news and research information relating to skin and anti-ageing discoveries. ㈵

㈵

Eating vegetables gives skin a more healthy glow than the sun, study shows ScienceDaily (Jan. 12, 2011) New research suggests eating vegetables gives you a healthy tan. The study, led by Dr Ian Stephen at The University of Nottingham, showed that eating a healthy diet rich in fruit and vegetables gives you a more healthy golden glow than the sun.

The research, which showed that instead of heading for the sun the best way to look good is to munch on carrots and tomatoes, has been published in the Journal Evolution and Human Behaviour.

Dr Ian Stephen, from the School of Psychology, University of Nottingham, Malaysia Campus, led the research as part of his PhD at the University of St Andrews and Bristol University. He said: “Most people think the best way to improve skin colour is to get a suntan, but our research shows that eating lots of fruit and vegetables is actually more effective.”

Dr Stephen and his team in the Perception Lab found that people who eat more portions of fruit and vegetables per day have a more golden skin colour, thanks to substances called carotenoids. Carotenoids are antioxidants that help soak up damaging compounds produced by the stresses and strains of everyday living, especially when the body is combating disease. Responsible for the red colouring in fruit and vegetables such as carrots and tomatoes, carotenoids are important for our immune and reproductive systems.

While this study describes work in Caucasian faces, the paper also describes a study that suggests the effect may exist cross-culturally, since similar preferences for skin yellowness were found in an African population. The work was funded by the Biotechnology and Biological Sciences Research Council (BBSRC) and Unilever Research, and published with support from the Economic and Social Research Council (ESRC) and the British Academy and Wolfson Foundation.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

Professor David Perrett, who heads the Perception Lab, said: "This is something we share with many other species. For example, the bright yellow beaks and feathers of many birds can be thought of as adverts showing how healthy a male bird is. What's more, females of these species prefer to mate with brighter, more coloured males. But this is the first study in which this has been demonstrated in humans."

CANCER THERAPIES WORKSHOP FRIDAY, AUGUST 19, 2011

The face in the middle shows the woman's natural colour. The face on the left shows the effect of sun tanning, while the face on the right shows the effect of eating more carotenoids. Participants thought the carotenoid colour looked healthier.

The 2011 program will feature world expert clinician Dr Mark Rosenberg MD, who will educate health professionals on Integrative Cancer Therapies. Dr Rosenberg will also host an Australian first workshop on Integrative Cancer Therapies on Friday, August 19, 2011.

(Credit: Image courtesy of University of Nottingham)

See: http://perception.st-and.ac.uk/ for demos or to participate in face experiments.

THE 5TH ANNUAL 2011 CONFERENCE IN ANTIAGEING & AESTHETIC MEDICINE 20-21 AUGUST 2011, MELBOURNE

Dr Stephen said: "We found that, given the choice between skin colour caused by suntan and skin colour caused by carotenoids, people preferred the carotenoid skin colour, so if you want a healthier and more attractive skin colour, you are better off eating a healthy diet with plenty of fruit and vegetables than lying in the sun." Dr Stephen suggests that the study is important because evolution would favour individuals who choose to form alliances or mate with healthier individuals over unhealthy individuals.

aesthetic goals by supporting them with internal protocols. Topics include: ! Complete Health Assessment & Education ! Nutrition counselling ! Lifestyle guidance ! Skin & Body Wellness ! Aesthetic Therapies ! New technologies and techniques ! Cosmeceuticals and Nutriceuticals ! Cutting edge aesthetic treatments.

The 2011 AustralAsian Academy of AntiAgeing Medicine (A5M) Conference is the premier Anti-Ageing clinical program of the year, combining Preventative, Integrative and Anti-Ageing Medicine in a program which leads the way in Anti-Ageing health & medical education. Together with over 40 world-class speakers, the conference presents an extensive Anti-Ageing Exposition, combining internal with aesthetic exhibitors, showcasing cutting edge products and technologies for the advancement of proven rejuvenation and anti-ageing techniques.

A5M President Dr Nathan Francis said the 2011 Conference and workshops will provide a clinical insight into the key role Integrative Medicine can have in treating cancer and other illnesses. “The 2011 Conference and pre-conference workshop on Integrative Cancer Therapies is mandatory for all health professionals who want to be a true partners in their patients' health!” Dr Francis said. The 2011 program will include the latest innovations and practices in Anti-Ageing Medicine including: Internal Anti-Ageing Interventions: ! Interventional Endocrinology ! Genetics and Anti-Ageing ! Stem cells ! Hormone Therapy ! Inflammation ! Neurotransmitters ! Sports Medicine and Nutrition ! Genomics and Laboratory Testing ! Obesity and Weight Management ! Brain & Emotional Health & Performance ! Integrative Therapies in Cancer Therapy

INTEGRATIVE & AESTHETIC WORKSHOP, AUGUST 21, 2011

External Anti-Ageing Interventions: ! Latest Skin Technology ! Genetics of the skin ! The latest in lasers ! Nutriceuticals of the skin ! New Injectible Techniques ! Non-Invasive rejuvenation of the face and body ! Skin Resurfacing Techniques ! Mesotherapy

The one-day Integrative and Aesthetic Workshop to be held on Sunday 21 August, as a third stream, will focus specifically on theory and practical advice practices and protocols, which will enable you to safely extend your services to enhance your client's

For more information contact the AustralAsian Academy of Anti-Ageing Medicine, Ph: 03 9813 0439, or Email: enquiries@a5m.net Web: www.a5m.net.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

APJ 40

㄰

㄰

㤵

㤵

㜵

㜵

㈵

㈵

quantify the drug present within the lesion and monitor its efficacy during treatment," says Saager.

TREATING CANCER WITH LED LIGHT Can skin cancer be treated with light?

Scientists at the University of California, Irvine (UC Irvine), believe so. They're exploring new ways to image cancerous lesions using LEDs that might advance a technique for treating cancer called photodynamic therapy (PDT).

In PDT, photo-sensitising chemicals that absorb light are injected into a tumour, which is then exposed to light. The chemicals generate oxygen radicals from the light energy, destroying the cancer cells. PDT is currently approved by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) in the US for the treatment of oesophageal and lung cancer.

Rolf Saager, who works in the lab of Anthony Durkin at the Beckman Laser Institute at UC Irvine in collaboration with Kristen Kelly, M.D., and Modulated Imaging Inc., believes that PDT could also be used to treat skin cancer. But one obstacle to this application is the lack of a detailed imaging technique to target and monitor the effectiveness of PDT. Exploiting a technique known as spatial frequency domain imaging, the team has designed a new device with an array of five different colours of LEDs that illuminates skin with distinct intensity patterns. These patterns can change depending on the structure of the tissue and the pigments in the skin. With appropriate models of light propagation, the resulting images reveal the biochemistry of the tissue. ㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

"Through this imaging modality, it is now possible to assess how the therapeutic light will travel throughout the affected tissue,

To evaluate this spatial frequency domain imaging system, the scientists imaged a small population of skin cancers prior to treatment to characterise the variability among subjects and within the lesions themselves. The process took 5-10 seconds and produced images with a resolution of 30 microns, revealing spatially resolved maps of the optical properties of the lesions, tissue oxygenation and quantitative distribution of the photo-sensitising drug.

Saager and colleagues hope that this imaging technique will provide a better map for targeting and optimising photo-dynamic therapy for basal cell carcinoma, the most common type of skin cancer. The next step for their ongoing experiment will be to enable the therapeutic aspects of the instrument and monitor the tissue dynamics during PDT treatment regimens.

Why Don't All Moles Progress To Melanoma?

Everyone has moles. Most of the time, they are nothing but a cosmetic nuisance. But sometimes pigment-producing cells in moles called melanocytes start dividing abnormally to form a deadly form of skin cancer called melanoma. Scientists know that 30 per cent of all melanomas begin in a mole. They know that 90 per cent of moles contain cancercausing mutations. What scientists didn't know is how melanocytes stop these mutations from triggering the development of cancer.

Maria S. Soengas, Ph.D., and other scientists in the Multidisciplinary Melanoma Clinic at the University of Michigan Comprehensive Cancer Center, have found the answer to this important question in an unexpected place – a structure inside cells called the endoplasmic reticulum, or ER. "Our results support the direct role of the endoplasmic reticulum as an important gatekeeper of tumour control," says Soengas, who is an assistant professor of dermatology in the U-M Medical School. "Until now, noone knew there was a connection between ER stress and the very early stages of tumour initiation."

Results of the U-M study involving melanocytes from normal human skin and biopsies of non-malignant human moles were published in the October 2010 issue of Nature Cell Biology.

The endoplasmic reticulum is the cell's protein production factory. The process begins when chains of amino acids are deposited in the ER membrane in response to coded instructions from genes. Chaperone proteins fold these amino acids into specific shapes. When too many of them build up in the membrane, or when something goes wrong with the folding process, the system gets bogged down. This can stress or even kill the cell.

To prevent this, the ER sends out distress signals to activate what scientists call the unfolded protein response (UPR). This slows the protein production process and gets rid of excess incoming amino acids, giving the ER a chance to catch up. If that doesn't work, the UPR causes the cell to destroy itself in a process called apoptosis. "Traditionally, the ER's role was considered to be limited to protein folding or protein modification," Soengas says. "But scientists like Randal Kaufman, a U-M professor of biological chemistry and co-author on our paper, have found that the ER can sense changes in glucose, nutrients, oxygen levels and other aspects of cellular physiology associated with diseases like diabetes and Alzheimer's disease."

"In our study, we found that the ER senses the activity of certain oncogenes in the melanocyte and triggers a response that prevents the malignant transformation of these cells," Soengas adds. According to Soengas, the tumor suppressive mechanism induced by the ER in melanocytes with these cancer-causing mutations is premature senescence – a form of "suspended animation" that stops the cell cycle and keeps cells from dividing, but doesn't kill them.

"The cells are held in check – they don't die, but they don't proliferate either," Soengas explains. "In the case of moles, melanocytes can stay this way for 20 to 40 years or even your whole life. For most of us, just holding cells in an arrested state is sufficient to prevent the development of cancer. That's why so many people have moles, but few have melanoma."

㄰ 㤵 㜵

Biopsied tissue from a human mole shows melanocytes with cancer-causing mutations (stained green) that have been targeted by the unfolded protein response. (Photo credit: Maria S. Soengas, Ph.D., U-M Medical School)

㈵

APJ 41







280MRK_APANAdvertA4PrintFile.indd 1

3/03/2010 12:23:34 PM

keyingedient ㄰

㄰

㤵

㤵

㜵

㜵

㈵

㈵

Renewed interest in POMEGRANATE – the Skin and Health Super Food

by Terry Everitt As new or noteworthy research comes to light on ingredients we are committed to bringing any interesting information to your attention, not only for your benefit, but also for your clients, who may be asking your opinion. Media hype may profile “fashionable ingredients”, but is there any evidence of their credibility? One ingredient that has recently achieved noteworthy recognition through research findings is the common pomegranate. In this article Terry Everitt presents some interesting information on the fruit and its health benefits, as well as its benefits on the skin.

In the skincare industry’s relentless search for something new to get into a bottle, pomegranate has started being promoted as being one of the next big ingredients. For most, pomegranates are known as some exotic fruit that makes an appearance in the fruit shop for a few months and then is forgotten until its reappearance the next year.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

As with all “natural” ingredients, there is nothing new about pomegranate extracts. Pomegranates have a high concentration of polyphenols, tannins and anthocyanins – all of which are great antioxidants. But wait; there is more. Pomegranates are also high in Vitamin B, C, E and iron.

The major group of chemicals in pomegranates causing interest in skincare are polyphenols, collectively termed Punicalagins (from the punicaceae family). A large part of these polyphenols are more commonly called ellagitannins; one of which is called ellagic acid.

This is already known as a powerful free radical scavenger, particularly since it helps the body's own glutathione to protect the DNA from damage. Studies have shown promise of ellagic and other polyphenols in helping to regulate cell turnover and give the cell time

to divide normally. These results are preliminary at present and have not been replicated (as far as I know), so it is too early to get really excited about this, however, they do show interesting possibilities.

Pomegranate may not be a big deal in Australian culture even though it is progressively gaining popularity, but it is quite significant in other cultures. Persian cultures believe that Adam was giving pomegranates, not apples to Eve. Ancient Egyptians were buried with pomegranate and Greek mythology has pomegranate being offered by Hades to Persephone (those in the know, know what happened next).

India, Iran and many Middle Eastern countries have used pomegranate in their folk medicines and cooking.

In Egypt, the Ebers Papyrus, written in 1552 (or thereabouts), contains over 700 remedies for treating disease and pomegranate features in numerous of the medical treatments of the day. Not sure when, but it is known that physicians in ancient Greece prescribed pomegranate juice as a treatment for arthritis, circulation disorders, viruses and digestive problems.

HEALTH BENEFITS We will be dealing with the benefits of skin further into the article, but in brief here are some health conditions that pomegranate claims to assist: 1. It may help reduce the risk of having a heart disease, heart attacks and strokes. Studies show that pomegranate juice daily may help support the normal blood flow to the heart. Because of its antioxidant properties, pomegranate keeps bad cholesterol from forming, and thus, may help keep the arteries clear of clots.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

APJ 44

㄰ 㤵 㜵

2. It may help support the body’s normal defence in the prevention of certain cancers. Since pomegranates have very high levels of antioxidants in the form of flavenoids that is thought to be effective in counteracting various cancer-causing radicals, more and more experts recommend this fruit as a possible part of a healthy diet.

Recent studies also support its benefit against breast cancer.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

㈵

3. It may help reduce the risks for illnesses such as atherosclerosis, osteoarthritis and diabetes. Because of the properties of pomegranate, conditions that are known to cause the thickening and hardening of arterial walls and damage in cartilage and joints are said to be helped by this fruit.

4. Other users believe it might reduce the possibility of developing Alzheimer's disease among older people.

5. The antioxidants in pomegranate are thought to help support the immune system.

6. It may help support healthy blood flow because of its iron properties. Pomegranate supports the blood by supplying it with iron, thus may help prevent anaemia symptoms that include exhaustion, dizziness, weakness and hearing loss.

7. Pomegranate juice and extract is thought by some women to help in overcoming the feeling of general malaise during menopause.

RESEARCH ON SKIN BENEFITS In skincare, one American company is advocating the pomegranate extract as the new wonder ingredient, on the basis of studies that could not be termed solid scientific peer reviewed. One of the big claims is that pomegranate extract protects against ultra-violet damage. This claim, however, is a result of one study of eight subjects who used pomegranate extract topically and internally for five days.

The Minimal Erythemal Dose (MED) was tested prior to and post this five-day period. Topical application of SPF 4 and 8 was used with and without the pomegranate extract.

As a result of the MED outcome, it was decided that the pomegranate extract boosted the Sun Protection Factor (SPF) by 20 per cent.

Must-Have product for the Treatment Room

The BIOELEMENTS Lactic-Plus Peel The Ultimate Strength Peel, with pomegranate Bioelements Lactic-Plus Peel Treatment is an advanced, ultimate-strength professional facial peel from organic lactic acid (30% strength). Enhanced by pumpkin TREATMENTS IN fruit enzymes and stimulating pomegranate to provide a EVERY BOTTLE powerful surface peeling of dulling skin cells, this Bioelements professional peel will smooth out fine lines and wrinkles, stimulate cell turnover, restore elasticity and promote skin healing.

100

Bioelements Lactic-Plus Peel Treatment can also be customised to meet the level of exfoliation that the client's skin needs with amazing results, and without any downtime. Skin will emerge, smooth and more refined, with a brighter, more even overall tone.

Recommended for a number of skin conditions including: Mature ageing skin Fine lines and wrinkles Dehydrated or flaky skin Hyperpigmentation Clogged pores Comedones or Milia Rough texture

! ! ! ! ! ! !

For further information, contact Absolute Spa on 03 9464 4466 or email jai@absolutespa.com.au

Taken in isolation, this means absolutely nothing, as the test parameters are so small that any result could have been obtained and does not show the effect over a larger population base of different skin types and in different localities. It would be very dangerous to state that on this basis of this one “study” that pomegranate extract increases SPF by any percentage, let alone 20%. The study provides no information as to how this result was formulated, nor how the SPF is increased. I think the TGA would be interested in this claim of SPF, given sunscreens are classified as a drug in Australia (admittedly an over-the-counter drug).

received only the chemical that causes skin cancer.

Researchers say the pigment that gives pomegranates and other fruit their dark red colour have higher levels of antioxidant activity than both red wine and green tea, and even small amounts of pomegranate extract was enough to produce significant results.

The study showed that only 30% of the animals treated with the extract developed skin cancer after 16 weeks, compared with 100% of the non-treated mice. Those animals that did develop skin cancer despite the extract treatment had on average smaller tumours than those animals not receiving the pomegranate extract treatment.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

㄰

Others studies presented in Phoenix at the American Association for Cancer Research's second annual International Conference on Frontiers in Cancer Prevention Research looked at the effects of three different fruit extracts in preventing sun-related skin damage in animal and laboratory tests.

In the first study, researchers applied pomegranate fruit extract to the skin of laboratory mice 30 minutes before they were exposed to chemically induced skin cancer and compared the results to mice that

In the second study, researchers looked at the effects of applying Resveratrol, an antioxidant found in the skins of grapes and in red wine, to hairless mice who were then exposed to skin cancer-causing ultraviolet (UVB) rays.

They found that Resveratrol significantly inhibited UVB-related skin damage that commonly precedes skin cancer. In the third study, researchers tested the effects of Perillyl alcohol, a compound found in citrus fruits, mint, and tart cherries on human skin cells that were treated with the compound and then exposed to UVB rays. Again, the

㤵 㜵

㈵

APJ 45

㄰

fruit extract inhibited cellular changes in the skin cells that commonly occur after UVB exposure.

making them a popular dye. Did you know that grenadine is processed pomegranate juice? No, I didn't either.

㤵 㜵

㈵

㤵

"The real impact of these papers is that in each case there is an attempt to really evaluate the mechanistic effects of these food ingredients and take the voodoo and mysticism out of nutrients, which in this area of skin cancer prevention is very important," says David Alberts, MD, of the University of Arizona, who moderated a discussion of these studies at a briefing.

㄰

"Ultimately, if we can identify what the targets are and where these agents are inhibiting, I think it adds fuel to interest in this area," says Alberts.

Researchers say if further studies confirms these preliminary findings, skincare products such as creams, patches and sunscreens containing these elements may be developed to protect the skin against cancer.

Although eating fruits or drinking beverages containing these compounds may also offer some skin cancer protection, researchers say the amount of the cancer-fighting elements that reaches the skin is not nearly as significant as when the extracts are applied directly to the skin.

According to Dr Kristie Leong, several recent studies have also shown pomegranate's ability to improve wound healing, resulting in faster repair of skin cuts and scrapes. It also appears to play a positive role in the repair of skin damage due to sun exposure and ageing. Extracts of pomegranate are thought to exert their positive effects on skin ageing by extending the life of fibroblasts, the cells responsible for producing collagen and elastin.

Collagen and elastin are the components that give strength and support to the skin. When collagen and elastin fibres break down, the skin develops laxity, resulting in the appearance of wrinkles and jowls. Fortunately, pomegranate's skin benefits may help to retard this process.

Another recent study showed that pomegranate seed oil stimulated the production of collagen, resulting in a mild thickening of the epidermis and dermis of the skin. It also appeared to prevent the breakdown of collagen fibres. This suggests that pomegranate oil may boost the ability of skin to repair itself by regenerating the supporting collagen structure of the skin.

A really useful information fact to remember is that when punicalagins hydrolyse (break up) into ellagic acid during processing and storage of juices and extracts, their ability to offer antioxidant potency to the body is reduced as it is 100% water soluble. Strange yet true, is that when punicalagins are preserved and then consumed, they can offer the researched health benefits of ellagic acid. This really means that eating pomegranates is good, yet to use them topically they need to undergo some manufacturing process, as squeezing the juice on to the skin alone will do nothing.

㜵

㈵

Interest in pomegranate research in recent times seems to have come from work carried out by Professor Michael Aviram in Israel. His research into antioxidants and their effects on cholesterol oxidation and cardiovascular disease uncovered various antioxidant sources’ one of which is pomegranate. Further research in pomegranate extracts in medicine conditions have been carried out at the famed Hammersmith Hospital in London and Rambam Medical Centre in Haifa. The United States Department of Agriculture has a specialist unit called the Human Nutrition Research Centre on Aging. This centre is currently running a few studies of pomegranate in terms of pomegranate juice and its various extracts’ effect on cognitive and motor deficits in ageing, which makes interesting reading. To date there are over 400 studies dedicated to examining the benefits of this time-honoured fruit.

Pomegranates do provide protective properties for the body’s healthy state and should be included in the diet. The evidence of topical application is thin on the ground at present. We do need to protect the skin from the multiple environmental stresses of today’s lifestyle and climate. There is no one product, nor ingredient, that will do it. We need an increase in “defensive” ingredients to combat the signs of ageing, while reducing the probability of actual skin ageing.

Pomegranate is one possibility and I'm sure you will be hearing more about the properties of this amazing fruit. As with all ingredients, just be careful about what you believe – where did the evidence for the claims come from? In the meantime, enjoy it in your diet, and look out for further research.

Other studies have shown that pomegranate seed extract applied to the skin may reduce the formation of some forms of skin cancer, suggesting that its antioxidant capabilities may be responsible for some of pomegranate's skin benefits.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

CHEMICAL COMPOSITION Pomegranates are from the Punicaceae family consisting of two species: Punica protopunica and Punica granatum. It is the granatum species that is more widely available and the one most of the published studies have been the subject of. The juice and skins of the pomegranate also produce stains which are practically impossible to remove,

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

APJ 46

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

KEEPING QUALITY AND STORAGE The pomegranate is equal to the apple in having a long storage life. It is best maintained at a temperature of 32º to 41º F (0º-5º C). The fruits improve in storage, become juicier and more flavourful. It may be kept for a period of seven months within this temperature range and at 80 to 85% relative humidity, without shrinking or spoiling. Studies confirm that its resistance to deterioration is due to its high quantities of anti-oxidants and the quality of its nutritional quality.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

Pomegranate, arils only Nutritional value per 100 g (3.5 oz) Energy 346 kJ (83 kcal) Carbohydrates 18.7 g Sugars 13.7 g Dietary fibre 4.0 g Fat 1.2 g Protein 1.7 g Thiamine (B1) 0.07 mg (5%) Riboflavin (B2) 0.05 mg (3%) Niacin (B3) 0.29 mg (2%) Pantothenic acid (B5) 0.38 mg (8%) Vitamin B6 0.08 mg (6%) Folate (Vitamin B9) 38 mg (10%) Vitamin C 10 mg (17%) Calcium 10 mg (1%) Iron 0.30 mg (2%) Magnesium 12 mg (3%) Phosphorus 36 mg (5%) Potassium 236 mg (5%) Zinc 0.35 mg (3%)

Percentages are relative to US recommendations for adults.

Source: USDA Nutrient database

EDITOR’S NOTE: AUSTRALIAN PRODUCTS As new research comes to light the popularity of pomegranate is gaining momentum with a new skincare product range just been launched in Australia by Essential Stuff. For further details please see page 81 in the Spotlight on Product pages in this journal.

This article is not to convince you that pomegranate is the next best thing in skincare, but like so many other ingredients that show promise, until we have a number of tests that prove the same premise it is not proven in scientific terms. However, as already mentioned, these research findings are coming forward with favourable evidence of the benefits of this fruit in both health and the skin.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

Terry Everitt is known as a Master Aesthetician in Advanced Clinical Aesthetics and lectures at medical and aesthetic conferences, both in Australia and internationally, while also being an educationalist in the development of quality assurance learning.

He is also a consultant in legislative compliance requirements within the vocational education and training environment. Terry holds membership with the Australasian Academy of Anti-Ageing Medicine (A5M), Australian Society of Cosmetic Chemists, Australian Institute of Training and Development, the Australian Institute of Management, Society of Dermatology Skin Care Specialists among others. He can be contacted on 0414 483 758.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

financialservices As the industry becomes more competitive you need to stand out from the crowd. To achieve this it's essential that you progressively introduce new technologies that will not only enhance your reputation, but also grow your market share. And so you review your business plan and decide to invest in the latest state-of-the-art high-tech device and offer a new level of advanced anti-ageing procedures in your salon or clinic.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

Excitement is rising and you are ready for your launch. You have put together special treatment packages that you want your clients to invest in. The total price of these treatments may be $2000 or perhaps even more – $3000 or even $4000.

But, you are concerned as to how your clients will respond to such an investment when previously they were spending much less money with you. You know your clients will welcome the new amazing results that can now be achieved with this technology, but will they afford them? After all, these are difficult financial times.

While treatment packages offer the best solution e.g. for clients, value for money and better results, and for the salon or clinic, guaranteed cash flow, with the tightening of the economy the availability of cash flow is restricted.

In spite of this the demand for antiageing procedures and wellness treatments are on the rise. Statistics, however in the beauty, aesthetics, medical-aesthetics and natural therapies sector indicate that clients/patients are spreading their visits over longer periods of time so that they can better afford them.

This new trend is causing financial hardship on the businesses. Is there a solution to this cash flow problem? We believe there is.

EXCITING NEW FACILITY In conjunction with Beauty Plus+ Insurance APAN is introducing an exciting new service that will allow businesses to offer payment plans to their client's with interest-free waiver options and funding up to $40,000 per applicant – a first for the beauty industry.

This facility will provide a financial solution for your current and potential clients. The service will allow your clients to move forward with their

A

㈵

CTI PRA TION

㄰

ORK

DV

TW

㜵

S

S ER

㤵

STHETI AE C

㄰

E I S O RY N

APAN Introduces a New INTEREST-FREE FINANCE SERVICE to help businesses grow

㤵 㜵

㈵

APJ 48

㄰

procedure sooner rather than later, and without the worry and concern with issues of affordability.

㤵 㜵

Over the past 18 months APAN has experienced several sectors within the industry, including salons, clinics, suppliers and medical aesthetic clinics, that are seeking this type of facility and the requests are constantly on the rise.

㈵

Accessing a credible financial provider who has an understanding of the medical and aesthetics industry was not easy. However, with the assistance of Beauty Plus+ Insurance APAN has been able to access a large, credible financial company with extensive experience in the aesthetics/medical field and with an excellent reputation, who can offer several financial services for the benefit of our members and their businesses.

DISCLAIMER APAN's role in this initiative has been simply to identify the right company, conduct its own thorough due diligence on the finance company, and once considered a reliable source, introduce this service to its members. APAN does not and will not engage in any financial advice or recommendations as this is outside of its jurisdiction.

Furthermore, no commissions or percentage of fees will be paid to APAN. However, APAN will charge members a small provisional fee of $50 to cover staffing and general office costs associated with this service.

WHAT IS INVOLVED? If you wish to introduce this service to your clients and business little or no extra work will be required from your staff as all aspects of finance will be handled directly by the financial company. All that will be required from you is to display the finance company's brochures so that your potential clients can contact the finance company directly on a free call number.

The company will also arrange a link to their website, via their Internet application, to collect the client's details. Once this application form is emailed back, the client will be contacted by one of the finance company's account managers to see if a payment plan is a viable option. This has proved very successful for all businesses, as the setup is very simple.

The financial officer can also be contacted by phone to speak to the potential client/patient if they wish. Conditional approvals are virtually instant once all necessary details have been completed and they will be advised upon acceptance so that you may schedule their treatments.

In the majority of cases funds can be disbursed in full within 24 hours of the receipt of a signed contract. Having received your fees you can now move forward to servicing your client's needs.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

! !

BENEFITS OF UTILISING THESE SERVICES There are several financial products available through this service that will also include other business loans as well. So how is this facility different to other lenders? ! Interest-free waiver service has never been offered to the aesthetics industry ! A varied panel of lenders currently underwrites this financial company, including some of the major financial institutions in Australia ! Higher approval rates than competitors sets this lender apart, allowing more people to move forward with their procedure

Lower interest rates than credit cards plans starting at 12.49%pa More choice of plans – there are also extended plans of up to $40,000 (terms up to seven years with little or no early repayment fees designed to suit almost any budget). They also provide a 48month payment plan with option to pay off in the first three or six months with no interest charged and no hold back charged.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

PAYMENT SERVICES Simple and reliable solution are available through this company, who will collect your client's payments, allowing you to focus on your core business. This service does not require credit checks, giving you 100% approvals and maximising your sales.

COMMERCIAL PRODUCTS They also provide equipment/vehicle or asset-finance for business use. These variable products allow them to provide finance that suits your budget and the best tax/GST offset. These professional packages are managed by the finance company in house and their application criteria is very simple and stress-free.

As part of our commitment to our members this facility has been designed to assist the industry to be able to access an excellent service that has the potential to grow your business at least 20-30% per year.

It has been set up exclusively for APAN members, so if you are not a member, here is your chance to join and benefit from these and the numerous other services that are constantly being developed for your benefit.

HOW TO APPLY It really is quite simple:

! !

APAN Members can email us their request with their full details and phone number and we will forward the link to them for the Introducers Registration Form. A small fee of $50 will apply.

Non-APAN Members can download a MEMBERSHIP APPLICATION form from our website: www.apanetwork.com complete it and fax it to 07 5593 0367. You can also phone us or email us so that we can contact you and process your membership and application over the phone. Once your membership has been promptly processed as well as your $50 fee, we will then forward the link to you for the Introducers Registration Form. Within a few days you will also receive your APAN Membership Kit that will include a number of other benefits.

WHY IS THIS FACILITY FOR MEMBERS ONLY? It is through membership fees that APAN's activities and extensive research towards members-benefits are funded. It is therefore inappropriate for non-members to be able to access the same initiatives at the expense of the members.

IS THIS SERVICE OF VALUE TO YOU? Consider the difference this service can make to the potential growth of your business or practice. We live in a constantly changing world.

This new financial service could make the difference to you surviving or booming. Which one will it be?

For further information phone APAN 07 5593 0360 or email info@apanetwork.com

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

APJ 49

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

APAN’S MANIFESTO

A manifesto is a public statement that articulates what we stand for and our values.

It reflects what others can expect of us and the foundational truths on which we base our activities.

UNITY can achieve more than divisiveness.

Be part of something bigger than yourself

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

INTEGRITY is the cornerstone of substance and purpose.

If you have integrity you have confidence.

EDUCATION opens up new horizons.

Invest and embrace in credible learning – it will change your life.

CHALLENGES are there to bring out the best in you.

Stay focused on lessons learnt and move forward with greater resilience.

LOVE WHAT YOU DO, it’s the secret to longevity and fulfilment.

Let your heart and your mind work passionately together.

NETWORK and grow your circle of influence.

Sharing and learning is the key to personal and business growth.

POSITIVE THOUGHTS give birth to creativity and solutions.

Fill your heart with them and they will strengthen you and guide you to a more successful future.

HONESTY exposes error and allows you to correct your ways.

Welcome honesty into your thought life. It will help to navigate you more quickly to where you wish to go.

GENEROSITY keeps you humble and corrects a self-centred focus.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

One person can make a difference if that one person has faith and commitment in the good they can bring to this world.

㄰

CELEBRATE LIFE by choosing good health and wellness options.

㤵

PARTNERSHIP supporting and developing others through strong

㈵

Invest in the best that life has to offer and expect miracles in your life. relationships.

㜵

A 㜵

ORK

DV

TW

STHETI AE C

㤵

CTI PRA TION

S ER

㄰

S

E I S O RY N

㈵

ATTENTION EMPLOYEES

㄰

Be REWARDED – you deserve it!

㤵 㜵

Join Australia’s fastest- growing member-based Professional body for the Beauty and Aesthetic Industry. and Associate with the Industry Leaders

㈵

APAN recognises your value and the important role you play in the success of any business, and we want to not only SUPPORT you, but also REWARD you.

APAN GOLD MEMBERSHIP was created to suit your needs.

We SUPPORT you with: ! Professional Services and Consultation to assist you in professional development ! Advice on wages and other entitlements ! Code of Ethics – the industry's best ! APJ – the journal with the most comprehensive educational articles ! Online professional community interaction ! Discounts for seminars and conference ! Easy Monthly Progressive Payment option – fully tax deductible ! Advice on further education and career recommendations We REWARD you with (if you join by the 30th June 2011): ! DEFCOM Discount Shopping Card with the ability to save thousands of dollars ! A gift of the great Anti-Ageing Book “Embracing the WARRIOR” Valued at $30 ! Plus be one of the first 20 to Join APAN under this offer and receive a gift pack from Jane Iredale of the New MYSTIKOL Visionary Eye Makeup valued at $120

APAN is Committed to Provide You With Outstanding Member-Benefits!

HU

Y RR

20 Y NL

O

㄰

NEW MYSTIKOL

TM

Visionary eye makeup in five super natural shades

㤵

㄰ 㤵

jane iredale 1300 850 008 www.margifox.com.au

A

CTI PRA TION

APAN offers you REWARD, RECOGNITION and SUPPORT ORK

DV

TW

S

S ER

㈵

㜵

STHETI AE C

㜵

I S O RY

NE

For further information please contact APAN on 07 5593 0360 email info@apanetwork.com for an application form or visit www.apanetwork.com and download a Membership Application Form.

APAN STANDS FOR EXCELLENCE Application form available at the back of this journal's cover sheet

㈵

technologyresearch ㄰

㄰

㤵

㤵

㜵

㜵

㈵

㈵

Ensuring your technology is giving you

OPTIMAL TREATMENT RESULTS

by Matt Moncrieff Purchasing high-tech devices such as lasers, IPL machines and body shaping equipment can be a business boomer or a business buster if you are not aware of the pitfalls. In this article we interview Matt Moncrieff to discuss important considerations and pitfalls to be aware of when purchasing a high-end device. Whether you already have your equipment or are considering purchasing or upgrading, this information could be invaluable to you.

APJ1: What advice would you offer someone who is looking to purchase an IPL machine and what pitfalls are you a wa r e o f t h a t bu ye r s c u r r e n t l y experience?

MM: The key pitfall we observe arises when buyers do not know ㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

enough about the technology they are purchasing to judge whether what they are being told will allow them to make sound decisions that will benefit them in the long run. Without an independent person to discuss the details with, they often do not have the knowledge to identify the pitfalls and get the best value for their money.

It is important to understand that while lasers have strict criteria for manufacturing, there are no international manufacturing guidelines for IPL. As a result, despite the fact that two machines may be marketed as having similar features, what one device can deliver can be totally different to the other. This was demonstrated by a study conducted on different IPL machines by Godfrey Town, who is a

clinical technologist specialising in applications, training and uses of light-based t e c h n o l o g y.

He discovered that many IPL devices emitted more than 30% less energy than they indicated, and were well outside the acceptable levels needed for safe use. Additionally, he discovered that as the life of the lamp went on, the drop in energy measured as much as 70% in variance from the energy stated on the device’s screen. This can be potentially ineffective and/or dangerous as this energy loss would make it nearly impossible for a user to accurately select settings and be confident that the IPL is emitting the correct amount of energy. This can and does result in poor treatment results or burns without the operator knowing why.

For our IPL devices, Energist and IPulse, the number of shots are limited and we can assure potential buyers that throughout the duration of the life of the lamp, the energy output will be consistent and any slight drop would be minimal and not clinically significant.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

There are several cosmetic companies who are now also offering IPL machines under their brand. However, many of them are not able to

APJ 52

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㄰

offer the same clinical and technical support as a specialized dealer. It is therefore preferable when investing in an IPL that you consider established brands whose devices are manufactured in Europe or the USA and have met the regulatory requirements of those countries.

㤵 㜵

㈵

㈵

We are often approached to assist someone who has purchased a cheap device and is experiencing technical problems, but has not been able to get the technical support from the company they purchased the machine from. While the documentation appeared OK when we examine the device we regularly discover that the device is very poorly built.

It is important to understand that while lasers have strict criteria for manufacturing, there are no international manufacturing guidelines for IPL. As a result, despite the fact that two machines may be marketed as having similar features, what one device can deliver can be totally different to the other.

If an IPL device cannot deliver “consistent energy output” this can lead to burns or an ineffective treatment. We have also found that poorly trained operators often overpromise the expected treatment results and then undertreat to ensure they do not cause any burns. The result is that after 3-4 treatments the client complains that they are not seeing results. The operator then attempts to increase the output and treats too strongly, resulting in burns or injury. Successful IPL treatments are very much reliant on the combination of the quality of the device and the skill of the operator to be able to provide the client with realistic expectations and to select the correct clinical settings to achieve safe and effective results.

APJ2: What about lasers? Do they offer more than IPL devices?

MM: Lasers inherently can be used for fewer applications. Laser light is monochromatic and cannot be used for the wide range of applications that an IPL can be used. However, for the applications that a specific laser is suitable for, it can produce more effective treatment outcomes. For example a long-pulsed Nd:YAG Laser (1064nm) can perform functions such as hair removal and vascular treatments, but cannot treat pigmentation. On the other hand, an Alexandrite Laser (755nm) is excellent for hair removal and superficial pigmentation, but cannot be used for a treatment such as leg veins.

An IPL will offer you a wider range of treatment options and is an excellent general tool, but if you have the budget for a laser (they are more expensive) you can specialise in a particular area and often achieve better results.

APJ3: What exciting new technology is now available for body shaping and cellulite?

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

MM: During the past 18 months we have experienced an increase in requests for cellulite and body-shaping devices and this is definitely consumer-driven, which is constantly on the increase. In the past, cellulite and body shaping devices were much less efficient and required many treatments to get the desired results. For example the original Deka Tri-Active Laser (with two handpieces) was great for cellulite and lymphatic drainage. However, the new Deka TriActive+ can now offer the practitioner much more. It features the original handpieces, but Deka have added four more handpieces.

There are two additional handpieces that deliver Radio Frequency for skin tightening and the reduction of fat (both shallow and deep) and two more handpieces that deliver ultrasound technology for greater results for fat reduction. This is a state-of-the art device that will

deliver faster and more effective results, and will help you attract more clients and increase your client satisfaction. To launch the Tri-Active+ we are offering a SPECIAL for purchases before the end of the financial year 30th, June 2011. There are no consumables with this device and financial assistance is also available.

APJ4: For someone wishing to introduce IPL into their business, is completing an IPL training course as well as the manufacturer's training for the specific device sufficient to get the best results from these treatments, or are their other considerations?

MM: I believe it is important that one starts with a comprehensive course offering education that incorporates a scientific understanding on how light interacts with human tissue and addresses the issue of safety. This education should be generic and not brand-specific.

Additionally, the operator needs to be trained on the device they will be using and learn how to operate it safely and effectively.

However, training on the use of any device is not a once-only exercise.

As the operator increases their knowledge and gains experience they need to gradually increase their repertoire of treatments. Education should therefore be ongoing. For example, at the Fleming Institute they deliver a five-day course on the physics of light, light tissue interaction and safety issues. It also includes practical hands-on training. Then at a later date you can do an advanced two-day course on treating vascular conditions and another two days specifically on how to treat pigmentation. You should probably start with hair removal and skin rejuvenation and then go on to specialise in pigmentation and vascular treatments. Progressing step-by-step will allow you to master the accurate selection of settings and to take on more advanced procedures that may also have a higher risk factor. As your skills and experience increase you can move forward with greater confidence.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

If you would like to speak to Matt or require further assistance and advice please contact High Tech Laser on 1300 309 233.

APJ 53

㄰

WHY IS 2B BIO-BEAUTY SKINCARE SO SUCCESSFUL?

㤵 㜵

㈵

[0% Acid] [0% Harsh Chemicals] [100% Natural]

[ [ [

]

youngerlooking eyezone

firmer skin

]

Change your clients’ skin! with 2B Bio Peeling Unlike other peels that only work on the surface, 2B BioPeel activates the exfoliation process from within the skin. The therapist is in full control of the peel and can individualise the peel to her diverse client needs.

An advanced treatment with immediate results for all skin conditions from Anti-Ageing needs, Pigmentation and Acne.

The 2B Bio-Beauty Skin Care is active and effective, niche and affordable.

! ! ! ! ! !

Professional Use Only Products Retail Products With Generous Mark-up And Samples Used In Cosmetic Surgery Clinics Worldwide For Effective Resurfacing And Anti-ageing Results Low Opening Order No Minimum Reordering Required Great Results With Acne

State Agents required. ㄰

Patou Aesthetics Distribution 㤵

Ph: 07 4057 8365 㜵

Mobile: 0419 665 383 Patricia Mangano

㈵

Email: patriciamangano@hotmail.com

www.patou.com.au

L

Par tner in your future

IBINVES C

O

S

M

E

㤵 㜵

㈵

While it is well known that oxygen is essential for vibrant skin the challenge has been in effectively delivering it to the skin through skincare. One ingredient that can successful achieve this and is supported by independent scientific studies is Perfluorodecalin, used by 2B Skincare, and the cornerstone to the successful results of this skincare range.

]

finer skin

The role of oxygenation in skin and body health is well known.

For the skin, the loss of oxygen contributes substantially to the appearance of ageing in the skin and contributes also to other skin disorders. At the age of 30, the loss of oxygen levels in the skin drop by 25 per cent and by the age of 60 the loss is up to 50 per cent. In highly polluted environments the oxygen losses can be even higher.

㄰

T

I

C

S

T

Perfluorocarbons as a hydrophobic and lipophobic fluid is easily identifiable in emulsions as interface micelles formation from oil or water networks. Such fluorinated materials depict traditionally third-phase elements in emulsions. The characteristics of carrying gas at a controlled level of volume allow us to create a fourth active gaseous phase in emulsions.

Perfluorocarbons is a unique gas carrier and as such allows cosmetic formulations to solve problems of carbon dioxide cleansing or oxygen enrichment of cells. The gas-carrying capacity of Perfluorocarbons is a physical phenomenon and totally reversible through gas diffusion.

An independent scientific study conducted on 30 women aged 35-40 years showed that a skincare formulation containing Perfluorocarbons increased the skin moisture levels at the same level as oxygen deposits in the outer layers of the skin. In contrast to other moisturisers the hydration levels remained much higher for several days.

The research further confirmed that the uptake of oxygen in the cell is based on active transport mechanism between the cells and intercellular space. The increase of oxygen supply results in a stronger diffusion gradient, which allows the cells of the epidermis to take up the optimal quantity of oxygen for their metabolic processes.

2B Bio-Beauty Skincare offer scientifically proven formulations that support and enhance the oxygen levels of the skin and offer better results to a variety of skin conditions. Fortified with botanical and antioxdiant vitamins, 2B Bio-Beauty Skincare allows the active ingredients to quickly penetrate the skin to where they can instigate change through an advanced delivery system. These clinically proven formulations will allow you to achieve advanced results and grow your client base. Also available is the highly successful and popular 2B Bio Peel.

Manufactured in Belgium, they offer both professional and retail products that are reasonably priced.

Contact Patrician Mangano at Patou Aesthetics Distributions Ph: 07 4057 8365, Mob: 0419 665 383 Web: www.patou.com.au Emails: patou@nsedreams.com or patriciamangano@hotmail.com

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

regulations ㄰

㄰

㤵

㤵

㜵

㜵

㈵

㈵

AUSTRALIA'S NATIONAL PAID PARENTAL LEAVE SCHEME Do you know your obligations or entitlements?

It has been in the pipeline for some time, but in February the Australian Government announced that the Paid Parental Leave Scheme is now in force. The scheme means that eligible employees are entitled to 18 weeks of Parental Leave Pay at the national minimum wage. Parental Leave Pay is fully funded by the Australian Government.

If you are an employer your role is being phased in over the first six months of 2011, so you do not have to provide Parental Leave Pay until 1 July 2011. However, you can still choose to provide it for your employees.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

Until 30 June 2011, you can choose to provide Parental Leave Pay to your eligible employees if they agree. The Family Assistance Office (FAO) will otherwise provide the payments.

An eligible employee can choose to receive Parental Leave Pay before, after or at the same time as employer-provided paid leave such as recreation or annual leave and employer-provided parental leave.

You can access an employer Tool Kit from the Centrelink website http://www.centrelink.gov.au/internet/internet.nsf/businesses/ppl_to olkit.htm

EMPLOYEE RESPONSIBILITIES

If you have an eligible employee who has claimed Parental Leave Pay, you will be notified by the Family Assistance Office. For further information visit http://www.familyassist.gov.au/

You don't need to contact the Family Assistance Office (FAO) if you have an employee who wishes to apply for Parental Leave Pay. Your employee will need to do this and to lodge a claim for Parental Leave Pay.

EMPLOYER RESPONSIBILITIES

It is the employee's responsibility to lodge their claim with the Family Assistance Office. The FAO can be phoned on 13 6150 between 8am and 8pm (Eastern Standard Time) Monday to Friday. They will determine the employee's eligibility for Paid Parental Leave.

From 1 July 2011, as an employer, you must provide Parental Leave Pay to your eligible long-term employees who have or adopt a child on or after this date. Funds will be provided to you before your employee's usual pay cycle.

To prepare your business for 1 July 2011, register for the Paid Parental Leave scheme through Centrelink's Business Online Services by visiting www.centrelink.gov.au/internet/internet.nsf/home/ index.htm. You will be notified if and when you have an eligible employee.

If you have an employee you think may apply for Parental Leave Pay, it's a good idea to talk to them about their options to prepare both yourself and your employee.

Claims for Paid Parental Leave can be lodged online or in person up to three months prior to the expected date of birth or adoption of their child.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

WHAT IF I AM SELF-EMPLOYED AND RECEIVING PARENTAL LEAVE PAY? There are some concerns with some self-employed businesses as to whether they can continue to work and still qualify for the Parental Leave Pay. The Government has set a framework of guidelines to

㈵

APJ 56

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

assist the self-employed as to what activities would be considered appropriate and still allow them to qualify. These are: ! You will be able to keep an eye on your business without being regarded as having returned to work. ! You will be able to oversee the business' operations, and perform the occasional administrative task. ! Types of activities that may be considered as overseeing or performing an occasional administrative task may include: 6 Paying an account 6 Checking on the delivery of an order 6 Approving the business accounts 6 Dealing with ad hoc disputes 6 Organising a repair, or 6 Recruiting replacement staff to manage your absence from work.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

If you perform your usual work duties during your Paid Parental Leave period you will be regarded as having returned to work and will no longer be entitled to Parental Leave Pay – even if you perform at reduced hours or work levels.

If you decide to return to work or your circumstances change before the end of your 18-week Paid Parental Leave period you will need to notify the Family Assistance Office. The unused part of your Parental Leave Pay may be transferred to your partner if they meet the eligibility criteria and claim your unused Parental Leave Pay. If you are self-employed, your Parental Leave Pay will be provided by the Family Assistance Office in fortnightly instalments.

If you are self-employed and need to provide Parental Leave Pay to your employee, more information is available about your role as an employer in the Employer Toolkit.

WILL THE PAID PARENTAL LEAVE SCHEME AFFECT EXISTING LEAVE ENTITLEMENTS OFFERED BY MY EMPLOYER? The Paid Parental Leave scheme provides you with Parental Leave Pay but does not give you an entitlement to leave. The scheme does not change any of your existing leave entitlements.

If you are eligible for the Paid Parental Leave scheme, you will be able to access up to 18 weeks of government-funded Parental Leave Pay, as well as any of your existing employer-provided paid or unpaid leave.

You can take your Parental Leave Pay before, during or after any paid maternity or parental leave, or other employer-funded leave entitlements (such as annual leave or long service leave).

If your employer currently provides paid maternity or parental leave through an industrial agreement, they cannot withdraw the entitlement for the life of that agreement. ㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

Under the National Employment Standards in the Fair Work Act 2009, if you have been employed by your employer for 12 months or more prior to the birth or adoption, you may be entitled to access up to 12 months unpaid parental leave associated with the birth or adoption of your child. You can also request an additional 12 months unpaid leave on top of this.

㄰

If you are unsure what your leave entitlements are, visit Fair Work website www.fairwork.gov.au/pay/nationalminimum-wage/pages/default.aspx or phone 13 1394.

㈵

㤵 㜵

organics ㄰

㄰

㤵

㤵

㜵

㜵

ORGANIC versus COSMECEUTICAL Skincare

㈵

㈵

Should you use both?

by Tess Walls

In an era when results are the primary objective of most clients who visit our salons and clinics, how do we come to terms with the issue of whether to introduce advanced clinical-strength formulations or organic, wholesome products? Should we use one and not the other, or can we use both? To address this issue Tess Walls, who conducts training in both these cosmetic spectrums, offers some valuable advice.

As organic product ranges continue to grow in popularity, more and more salon and spa owners ask me the question: “I have a cosmeceutical range and I have been thinking about also introducing an organic range, what do you think? Do you think I can use both?”

When answering this question my main consideration is not whether they should introduce an organic range to their practice, but how they will introduce it and to whom it should be introduced so that it truly benefits not only the client, but also becomes a profitable addition to their business.

Most of the time I find that salon owners bring an organic range into their salon and then are not sure how to correctly recommend it, use it, or promote it. Going back to the question as to whether there is a place for both a cosmeceutical and an organic range my answer would be a definite yes. Advanced formulations are designed to achieve substantial skin-improvement results, while a more natural organic range offers nurture and balance. ㄰ 㤵

I believe there is room for both, but to succeed in effectively promoting both we must first understand when and how we should be recommending an organic range.

㜵

COMMON MISCONCEPTION ㈵

There is a misconception that an organic range is just for those clients that have chosen a natural, organic lifestyle, or those that are undergoing treatment for cancer or other illnesses and cannot use a highly stimulating or active product.

However, organic products can also provide excellent benefit to a broader spectrum of clientele than just these two groups and do not have to take away from the cosmeceutical side of your business – I believe the two can work hand-in-hand.

MANIFESTATIONS OF TOXICITY To achieve positive and long-lasting results one must first consider the skin and body's ability to tolerate stimulation at a cellular level. A body that is highly stressed and weakened by toxicity will not respond well to healing, rejuvenation or regeneration.

Toxic levels in the body can be identified during your client evaluation and your skin analysis. Symptoms and manifestations to look for are: ! Sallow and dull complexion ! Poor circulation ! Fluid retention ! Sluggish digestion ! Constipation ! Lethargy and fatigue ! Hormonal irregularities ! Poor sleep patterns ! Poor diet ! Dehydration ! Irritability and stress All these symptoms point to toxicity in the body.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

APJ 58

㄰

㄰

㤵

㤵

㜵

㜵

㈵

㈵

There is another common misconception that someone who eats well, drinks sufficient water and exercises cannot be toxic.

can achieve the benefit of such a dynamic product team for a much better treatment outcome.

However, new research suggests other factors such as environmental and electromagnetic pollution, pesticides and synthetic chemicals in our food and certain medications can contribute to a toxic overload that can lead to unexplained skin sensitivities, causing negative reactions to often beneficial ingredients.

Tess Walls is a qualified Beauty Therapist, Trainer and Director of ISPA Group and the Australian Distributor of the skincare brand Germaine de Capuccini. She has 17 years’ experience in the spa and beauty industry in Australia and has a passion for helping others build their business step-by-step. Tess has also undertaken studies on the psychology of sales and loves imparting her knowledge to others. She works extensively within the aesthetic and spa industry teaching therapists how to offer exceptional client services to their clients. Tess is no stranger to success. She has owned her own salon and managed spas in exclusive international resorts, including they Hyatt Regency Spa, Grand Cayman Island, Caribbean and is an acknowledged expert in spa and salon systems.

Toxic overload is not only caused from chemicals in our food and the environment, it can also be caused by continuous stress as this will increase the levels of cortisol (stress hormones) in the body to toxic levels, contributing to a negative effect on the skin. Stress can also contribute to skin prone to allergies and other manifestations such as psoriasis, or just unexplained sensitivity, especially around the forehead, nasal, mouth and chin regions.

Other manifestations of toxic overload can present as hard lumps under the skin, particularly around the jawline. These can be a sign of the body’s inability to drain wastes through the lymph nodes, instead it encapsulates the “debris” and leaves it there until it has the time and energy to break it down.

If you believe that Tess can help you grow your business or to find out more about Germaine de Capuccini's organic range phone 1300 432 100 or mobile 0424 419 876.

THE ROLE OF ORGANIC SKINCARE IN SUPPORTING DETOXIFICATION AND BALANCE The best solution for toxic overload is to focus on lymphatic drainage, using seaweed and draining techniques and treatments such as marine algae wraps teamed with a range of skincare that is less complex in its ingredients, for example, a pure and simple organic range! The focus here would be to look for herbs and ingredients that would assist the detoxification and cleansing process of the skin, followed by pH balancing so that you are supporting the skin's immunity and optimising its defense. Once this is achieved you can then progress to more advanced procedures targeting cellular regeneration and antiageing protocols.

Moving into procedures such as advanced peels and high-strength cosmeceuticals on a highly toxic skin will not benefit your client, and your treatments will be hindered from delivering their full potential.

In fact, you may even find that the skin will “rebel” and react, often becoming “resistant” and unresponsive to the advanced treatments.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

As mentioned above, a carefully selected organic product range can be effectively used to relax the skin, strengthen its constitution, while nurturing and hydrating the skin, thus allowing you to introduce more invasive or stronger treatments that will target cell renewal for longlasting anti-ageing results. A re-balanced skin will also be able to retain greater hydration levels, sensitivity levels will be reduced and lines due to dehydration will be minimised, while inflammation and breakouts will also diminish.

By introducing your organic ranges during the initial preparation phase of the skin you will achieve a more responsive end result. As the professional it will be up to you to determine the skin's needs and the correct time to transition from organic to cosmeceutical so that you

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

antiageing ㄰

㄰

㤵

㤵

㜵

㜵

㈵

㈵

Alkalinity – The Key to Longevity The significance of the pH factor for internal health and vibrant skin

by Dr. Karen Coates

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

The pH factor is one that we are all familiar with when dealing with the skin. It is an important part of the skin's defence system and maintaining correct balance is paramount to the skin's health. But what role does the pH level play within the body, and what foods can assist us to keep that balance correct for our wellbeing? Dr. Karen Coates explains the significance of the Acid/Alkaline balance for internal health.

Food is the fuel that we use to energise our bodies and support optimal wellness and good skin. A diet perfectly designed for humans to eat should provide vitamins, minerals, and energy, but should also modulate our acid/alkaline balance.

Human bodies thrive on balance, and good health is present in a very narrow window of acid/alkaline balance. Like a finely tuned chemical reaction, the pH (acidity) of our blood must be regulated within a precise range to support good cardiovascular health, discourage infection, allow our immune system to work effectively and allow us to remove toxic waste.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

THE IMPACT OF HIGHLY ACIDIC FOOD Over the past 100 years humans have been experimenting with food refinement in an attempt to try and make new, different, more marketable or more profitable versions of real food, which has resulted in worrying consequences to our health. Walking through the central aisles of a modern supermarket, it may be difficult to spot a

㈵

APJ 60

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

natural food, and by that I mean one that has not had any type of human modification. Foods with additives, preservatives, and food with chemical residue from conventional farming all place an added load on our body as we attempt to remove these foreigners safely. The job of toxin removal is given to the liver and kidneys. The chemical processes of detoxification have an acidforming effect on blood and body cells, resulting in activation of our natural acid-buffering system.

The shift in our dietary sources to more acid-forming processed foods has fundamentally impacted on our biochemistry – those pathways that allow us to function efficiently, rebuild and repair tissues, remove waste and toxins and manufacture all of our essential hormones. The end result of this acid-producing process is most obvious in the areas of skin health, dental health and skeletal strength.

Recent research has started to quantify the negative consequences that acid-forming foods have on human health. The domino effect starts at the top of our nutrient extraction factory – the mouth, and may infiltrate all aspects of our physical and mental health.

㄰

ACID AND ALKALINE-FORMING FOODS

The pH scale is from 0 to 14, with numbers below 7 acidic and numbers above 7 alkaline. This chart is intended only as a general guide to alkalising and acidifying foods. To assist you below is a list of acid and alkaline foods.

㤵 㜵

ALKALINE FOODS ALKALISING VEGETABLES

Alfalfa, Barley Grass, Beet Greens, Beets, Broccoli, Cabbage, Carrot, Cauliflower, Celery, Cucumber, Dandelions, Eggplant, Fermented Veggies, Garlic, Green Beans, Green Peas, Kale, Lettuce, Mushrooms, Mustard Greens, Onions, Parsnips (high glycemic), Peppers, Radishes, Sea Vegetables, Spinach, Sprouts, Sweet Potatoes, Tomatoes, Watercress.

㈵

ALKALISING FRUITS

Apple, Apricot, Avocado, Banana (high glycemic), Mango, Pawpaw, Rockmelon, Coconut, Fresh Dates, Dried Figs, Dried Grapes, Grapefruit, Lemon, Lime, Nectarine, Orange, Peach, Pear, Pineapple, Raisins, Raspberries, Watermelon.

ALKALISING OILS

Olive oil, avocado oil, coconut oil, linseed/flax oil, pumpkin seed oil, ghee (clarified butter).

ALKALISING PROTEIN

Almonds, Chestnuts, Millet, Tempeh (fermented), Tofu (fermented), Whey Protein Powder, Soy cheese, Soy milk, Goat's milk.

ALKALISING SWEETENERS Stevia, raw honey, raw sugar.

ALKALISING SPICES AND SEASONINGS Highly acid-forming carbonated drinks, like soda water, diet drinks and cordials, begin an inexorable attack on teeth, which over time may lead to serious dental decay.

Doctors are now acknowledging the role of poor dental health as a major risk factor for heart disease and stroke.

Chilli, Cinnamon, Curry, Ginger, Herbs (all), Miso, Mustard, Sea Salt, Tamari

ALKALISING OTHERS

Alkaline Antioxidant Water, Bee Pollen, Fresh Fruit Juice, Green Juices, Lecithin Granules, Mineral Water, Molasses, Blackstrap, Probiotic cultures, Soured Dairy Products, Vegetable Juices.

ALKALISING MINERALS

Calcium: pH 12, Magnesium pH 9, Potassium pH 14, Sodium: pH 14.

IMPACT ON THE SKIN The skin, our largest body organ, is an early casualty in the battle for alkalinity. For example, an internal acid environment will impair red blood cell oxygenation. This is detrimental to the health of the skin as it is through the blood that oxygen and nutrients are delivered to the skin.

Changes to female hormone production due to a combination of high acidity and endocrine-disrupting chemicals can result in eczema/dermatitis and rosacealike changes in the skin.

IMPACT ON THE BODY

㄰

Abnormal deposits of fat into areas of the body, such as thighs and buttocks, can be manifested as cellulite. These fat deposits can contribute to a high toxin burden on our liver and can be the result of a highly acidic environment.

Fat can act as a safe storage facility for toxic waste and this fat can sometimes be resistant to classical weight-loss regimes as the body attempts to maintain the toxins within a “safe” fat cell toxin storage facility. Evidence from medical research in China suggests that some forms of fatty liver may also be caused by toxin overload to this organ.

㤵 㜵

㈵

Calcium is a source of acid buffering and will be borrowed from the skeleton if required urgently to maintain homeostasis and correct body pH. As a result poor dietary choices over the years can contribute to low bone density and osteoporosis. Carbonated drinks are the most commonly implicated culprits linked to osteoporosis through disruption of the acid/alkaline balance.

ALKALINE-PRODUCING ACTIVITIES AND EMOTIONS Meditation, prayer, peace, happiness, joy, kindness and love.

ACIDIC FOODS ACIDIFYING VEGETABLES Corn, olives, potatoes, cooked spinach.

ACIDIFYING FRUITS

Canned or glazed fruits, cranberries, sour cherries, rhubarb, blackberries, prunes.

ACIDIFYING GRAINS AND GRAIN PRODUCTS

Barley, bran, oats, wheat, cornstarch, crackers, wheat flour, noodles, pasta, oatmeal, oats (rolled), quinoa, rice (all), spelt.

ACIDIFYING BEANS AND LEGUMES

Almond milk, black beans, chick peas, green peas, kidney beans, navy beans, lima beans, lentils.

ACIDIFYING DAIRY

Butter, Cheese, Ice Cream, Ice Milk.

ACIDIFYING ANIMAL PROTEIN Bacon, beef, fish, chicken, turkey, veal, shellfish.

ACIDIFYING OILS AND FATS

Avocado oil, butter, canola, corn, flax, sesame and sunflower oils.

ACIDIFYING SWEETENERS

White sugar, brown sugar, NutraSweet, Equal, Sweet “N” Low, processed honey and processed molasses.

㄰

ACIDIFYING BEVERAGES AND DRINKS

㤵

Beer pH 2.5, Coca-Cola pH 2, hard liquor, spirits and wines, coffee, cocoa and soft drinks.

㜵

ACIDIFYING DRUGS AND CHEMICALS

Aspirin, recreational drugs, medicinal drugs, herbicides, pesticides, tobacco.

ACID-PRODUCING ACTIVITIES AND EMOTIONS

㈵

Overwork, Anger, Fear, Jealousy and Stress.

APJ 61

㄰ 㤵 㜵

Women of all ages can be at risk of urinary-tract infections due to acid dominance. As a result, both alternative and mainstream medicine equally support the use of alkalising agents to both treat and prevent this common condition.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

HOW TO ALKALISE ㈵

Green vegetables are the foundation of good health. Green smoothies incorporating fresh, leafy vegetables are an ideal way to start the day.

Add a slice of avocado to the smoothie for added energy. Lemons and limes are a surprising inclusion in the alkaline family.

㈵

Alkaline-producing foods should comprise at least 80% of your daily diet, with the remaining 20% being made up of nutrient-dense goodquality acidic foods. Some good foods such as nuts, eggs, fruits and dairy can be acid forming, but are OK when eaten in moderation in an overall alkaline-dominant diet.

Acid-forming foods in general are those foods that we intuitively know are wrong choices. Sometimes the high sugar content of choices such as fruit juice, sweetened tea or coffee attract us to these acid-loving saboteurs of wellness. Beer, processed meats, biscuits, pizza and all processed grains and dairy products fall into the acid category. Eggs also fall into the acidic range, but are amazingly nutritious and therefore allowed in that 20% acidic section.

It is important that we also maintain adequate water intake (alkaline water is now available as an adjunct to an alkaline diet) through the day.

We also need to move well each day and maintain good muscle mass.

Healthy muscles use oxygen to exercise, while poor fitness leads to lactic-acid formation, even on modest exertion, and contributes to acidity.

An invaluable tip to remember when wheeling the trolley around the supermarket is to search out foods with LOW HUMAN INTERVENTION – choose foods as close to natural as possible and apply the rule of common sense.

Dr Karen Coates is a medical practitioner with further qualifications in obstetrics, gynaecology, nutrition and environmental medicine. She is a renowned national and international speaker and author of Embracing the Warrior – An Essential Guide for Women. For further information on Dr Coates visit www.xtrahealth.com.au

㄰

㄰

㤵

㤵

㜵

㜵

㈵

㈵

Take the five point business check-up for busy salons...

If you own or manage a salon in the beauty or wellness industry, the 5 point business check-up is a must.

1. H ave you added a new treatment or service to your salon’s menu in the last 12 months?

Remember, your insurance policy needs to include cover for any new treatments you now offer, or plan to offer.

YES NO

2. Have you purchased anything worth more than $1000?

Purchases like POS systems, (or even a large order of new stock), can alter the amount of insurance cover your salon needs. It’s vital you know what your level of cover is, and exactly what your policy does (and does not) cover.

YES NO

3. H ave you moved address, hired or fired any staff?

Your insurance policy details must be ‘up-to-the-minute’ correct to avoid any loopholes in the event of a claim.

YES NO

Ph. Mon - Fri (07) 5502 8326 Email: sue@thesparrowgroup.com.au Mobile: 0422 313 081 Fax: (07) 5519 4359 www.thesparrowgroup.com.au

4. Is the correct person or registered entity listed on your insurance policy? (Company, Trust etc.)

It’s the little details that can cost you time and money in the event of a claim.

A FREE Insurance Review is the best way to make sure you’re covered.

YES NO

5. Have new or better policies come onto the market recently?

An insurance review doesn’t mean you end up paying more. If fact, there could be more competitive products or insurers standing by right now to save you.

YES NO

If you ticked YES to ANY of the questions in the 5 point check-up, call and ask for a Complimentary Insurance Review. It’s FREE. There’s no obligation. And you could start saving… Today.

the

INSURANCE

holisticbeauty ㄰

eczema, etc. In today's modern world, regular detoxification and cleansing is a must to stay healthy and youthful.

㤵 㜵

Technical progress has brought us not only enormous comfort, but also ecological illnesses. Our increasing exposure to electromagnetic pollution has become a constant stress our bodies were never designed to deal with leading to an increasing array of health problems.

In addition, we have become disconnected with the life-giving electrons from the earth through our insulated shoes, carpets, high-rises and concrete jungles. Our hectic, fast-paced lifestyle surrounded by technological gadgets has slowed down the spiritual development of our personalities, numbed our intuition and dulled the sharpness of our senses.

㈵

The Inner Living Beauty Plan

by Dr Dzung Price

The famous author Leo Tolstoy cautioned humankind with these words: “It is amusing that people will smoke, drink, overeat, be lazy and turn night into day, yet still expect the doctor to keep them healthy.”

Whether you are working on improving the condition and tone of your clients’ skin, or you are offering body-shaping treatments, to achieve genuine, long-lasting results you must consider the skin as a total organ that is cleansed and nourished from within. But how healthy is the internal state of your clients, and how will this state affect the end results of your treatments or the longevity of the results they have invested in?

In this article Dr Price addresses issues that compromise our health and presents simple solutions that can be easily implemented to achieve better health and more glowing beauty.

㄰

Our civilisation has concentrated solely on mastering our external environment, on subduing nature. The result has led to a huge increase in ecological problems. Our toxic load is now huge and increasing all the time. We are polluting not only the world, but also our own bodies.

㤵 㜵

㈵

According to a study entitled “Body burden: The pollution of newborns.” from the Environmental Working Group, the umbilical cord from newborn babies already contains hundreds of toxic chemicals. Of the more than 400 chemicals tested in 10 newborn babies, researchers found 287 in umbilical- cord blood. Of these, 180 can cause cancer, 217 are toxic to the brain and nervous system, and 208 can cause birth defects. No wonder our children are suffering from so many childhood ailments such as allergies, autism, ADHD,

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

We humans have pushed ourselves away from nature and we have ignored the laws of harmonious development. Now we are paying the price. Many of our modern diseases are the result of the balance being broken between our external environment and ourselves. In the modern world, it's hard for us to accept new ways of being – we have been so conditioned by the society in which we live, particularly in the past 100 years, to achieve our economic goals. There are many pressures on us to sacrifice selfdevelopment, our own health and soul at the altar of material success.

The famous author Leo Tolstoy cautioned humankind with these words: “It is amusing that people will smoke, drink, overeat, be lazy and turn night into day, yet still expect the doctor to keep them healthy.” We have become lazy. We expect doctors or healers to “fix” us, without any effort on our part. But the very best doctor, the most talented healer cannot assist you unless you choose to take responsibility in your own healing. You have to actively discover your own resources, activate your own innate healing abilities and be prepared to make deep changes to your thoughts, habits and lifestyle.

In fact, being truly healthy and vibrantly beautiful is a progressive journey, embracing all aspects of your physical, mental, emotional and energetic being. Protecting our beauty begins in our youth and continues throughout every age and stage of life. The answer, however, isn't just what you gain through cosmetics. The right nutrition, internal cleansing, soul alignment, positive thoughts and hormonal harmony are the pathways to attaining natural beauty and vitality. A youthful glow, skin that's soft to the touch, lustre-rich hair, strong, healthy nails, a serene spirit and a nourished soul... the answer for true beauty is here for each of us no matter what our age. It's only a matter of understanding how to create it.

Beauty is more than skin deep – our appearance reflects our inner health. The beauty problems we see in the mirror can result from hormonal imbalances, toxins, stress and dietary deficiencies that cosmetics can't mask. Clear out your toxic blocks to beauty. Use seasonal diets to cleanse the body's systems will allow us to look our

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

APJ 64

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

㄰

very best. Consider undergoing a "seasonal cleanse" four times a year – not a fast, but a diet rich in lean protein, certain oils, and seasonal, organic fruits and vegetables; eliminating sugar, caffeine, alcohol and white-flour products; and taking herbal teas, cranberry juice, detox and drainage remedies and a "super green food supplement". Be sure to include a good parasitic and candida cleanse as these critters very commonly inhabit the body system and increase toxic load, as well cause as a myriad of “mysterious” symptoms.

㤵 㜵

㈵

THE SEVEN BEAUTY FUNDAMENTALS Here are seven beauty fundamentals every woman needs to maintain a healthier, more radiant appearance from the inside out:

1. A cleansed, detoxified system: improves the functioning of the body's internal systems and helps rid it of harmful pollutants. Regular detoxification keeps the excretory organs of the gut, liver, kidney and lymphatics in tip-top condition and prevents accumulated toxins from harming our health.

2. Powerful proteins & beautifying oils: highquality proteins are critical for repairing and rebuilding cells as well as providing important amino acids for detoxification and glandular function. Essential fatty acids in beautifying oils (borage, flaxseed, fish oils) are critical to the maintenance of soft, smooth skin texture and to reduce inflammatory skin conditions.

3. Energising, immune-boosting herbs, vegetables and fruits: provide powerful antioxidants and phytonutrients to suppress ageing free radicals, regulate the immune system as well as supporting detoxification and cleansing the blood of toxins that can aggravate skin conditions.

4. Revitalising vitamins, minerals, and super foods: support optimal enzyme function within cells and provide important nutrients for maximising cellular function and energy.

5. Balanced hormones and healthy energy systems: arise from attention to self-care activities (such as yoga, qi gong, tai chi, meditation, massage) and getting your hormones checked and balanced.

6. Clearing mental, emotional and spiritual blocks and reframe stress. I coach and give my patients energy exercises and emotional ㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

healing that releases toxic emotions, unwind patterns of stress and clarifies their purpose so they can shift their life into a new pattern of ease, freedom and connectivity.

7. Avoiding known external toxins (in food, water, cosmetics and personal-care products). Making efforts to become educated and informed about our environment toxins and moving towards healthier, sustainable choices goes a long way in reducing accumulative toxic load that inhibits healing.

OUR THIRD KIDNEY Our skin should be releasing toxins each and every day. Our skin is often called our third kidney because of its role in detoxifying the body. Many toxins leave the skin through sweating, which is why aerobic exercise, saunas and steam baths aid in detoxification. But a common problem is that our skin is clogged with unhealthy cosmetics and dead skin cells – so toxins can't leave our bodies as easily as they'd like.

Acne and boils are common signs that the skin isn't breathing properly, and the body is toxic. If the skin isn't breathing properly, it also puts additional stress on our liver and kidneys to detoxify what could otherwise be directed out of the body through the skin.

One of the major problems with detoxification is getting rid of stored mucus in the body. It's hard because mucus in the body tends to solidify into a glue-like jelly. It is impossible to eliminate it from the body without warming it up first. Only then will the mucus loosen up and be ready for elimination. In addition, the ancient Greek healer Galen stated that one of the reasons why our bodies age is poor

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

APJ 65

perspiration of the skin. He invariably recommended steam baths to widen the pores and increase perspiration.

㄰ 㤵

㤵

DRY-SKIN BRUSHING AND WARM HYDROTHERAPY

㜵

Using heat within saunas and steam rooms with alternating periods of cold showers or cold plunge pool can be very beneficial for loosen up of the body mucus. If you don't have easy access to a sauna or steam room, there are alternatives. You can take an Epsom salts bath and/or aromatherapy baths twice a week during a detox program for about 20 minutes before going to bed.

㈵

PURE INVENTION Introducing

New Signature Fruit Flavour When treating the skin the first consideration is to examine the hydration levels before addressing any other concern. Dehydration in the skin not only contributes to accelerated ageing of the skin, it is also the most important issue for correction if results to skin improvement through further treatments are to be sustained. However, true hydration must commence from within and fostering this concept is every aesthetician's responsibility.

PURE INVENTION has developed antioxidant drops formulated by a nutritionist that offer a unique line of pure liquid antioxidant extracts that turns ordinary water into something more interesting to enhance hydration levels within the body. Add a few drops to a cold or hot water to make a delicious drink. PURE INVESTION antioxidant drops are very popular served to clients in salons and spas, or sold to client to complement your homecare recommendations. Not only can you now ensure that your client will remember the value of adequate water intake, but also you can support their nutritional status through powerful antioxidants that are rapidly bio-available in liquid form.

Pure Inventions® come in three categories and are all without calories, artificial sweeteners, caffeine or preservative free – just add to water.

Just released is the latest addition to the Signature Fruit Flavour Cranberry and Elderberry. Cranberry and Elderberry contains the whole cranberry, including the skin, natural fibre and seeds. Studies confirm that consuming cranberries may support urinary tract health, the digestive system, kidney health and may help promote a healthy LDL cholesterol. Elderberries are potent sources of anthocyanins and may help boost immunity, reduce stress and promote cardiovascular health.

Pure Invention products are all natural, contain no caffeine, no sugar, no artificial sweeteners, no preservatives, no alcohols and no gluten and can be enjoyed also by diabetics. They make an excellent salon refreshment as well as a wonderful retail item. RRP: $55.95.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㄰

Other varieties include: Fit+Slender Weight Management Formula (with a hint of ginger) This is a delicious natural herbal supplement that helps curb appetite, increases fat burning, while blocking absorption of carbohydrates. Antioxidant Green Tea Extract (available in light Lemon, Raspberry or Tropical). Other Signature Antioxidant Fruit Extracts are available in Pomegranate and Acai Berry, Blueberry and White Tea

For further information on PURE INVESTION phone Absolute Spa 1300 262 275 www.absolutespa.com.au

㈵

㜵

㈵

In addition, dry-skin brushing is one of the easiest and least expensive ways to detox at home, and this technique provides a number of important health benefits. Skin brushing is a highly effective technique for stimulating the expulsion of mucus and loosening other toxic matter that clogs the lymphatic system and the lymph nodes.

Done regularly, skin brushing improves circulation, brightens our complexion, improves skin tone and stimulates our lymphatic system.

Skin brushing also stimulates the nervous system and improves its function.

Dry-skin brushing keeps toxins from polluting the skin, which promotes a clear, supple complexion. People who use this technique regularly notice reduced cellulite and better muscle tone.

Doing skin brushing in conjunction with using warm hydrotherapy increases the effectiveness of this detoxification method. No unusual equipment is needed for dry-skin brushing, just a brush made with soft, natural hair. You should try to brush your skin on a daily basis. A good time to do this is right before your daily shower, not only because it will be easy to remember, but also because the shower will help accelerate the cleansing process after dry brushing. Remember to always use brush strokes upwards, towards the heart.

Too often I see promotions for expensive, complicated detox programs that promise to make us healthier. Gentle drainage and detoxification remedies and simple cleansing strategies can go a long way in starting the healing process in any chronic disease.

Understanding the essentials of detoxification and learning to read the body's beauty and health signals are the first steps to vibrant health and beauty.

Detoxification improves the functioning of the body's internal systems, and helps rid it of harmful pollutants. Seasonal maintenance protects and regenerates the body inside and out, while clearing away mental, emotional and spiritual blocks in order to reduce stress and help restore hormonal balance and outward radiance.

It is time for living beautifully!

Dr Dzung Price is a holistic integrated medical practitioner with qualifications in Nutrition and Environmental Medicine, Naturopathy, Acupuncture, Bio-energetic Medicine and Homotoxicology. Using this comprehensive array of healing modalities, cutting edge medical technology and self-empowerment solutions, Dr Price works to address the root causes of disease and the lack of wellness in her patients. Working closely with a talented team, her approach is to restore optimal health by removing the obstacles so that the body creates agelessness and wellness in mind, body and spirit through clinics in Brisbane and on the Gold Coast.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

She is the co-founder of CHI Health Innovations, a company devoted to the provision of bio-energised natural health products for wellness and beauty. www.chihealthinnovations.com

APJ 66

㄰

㄰

㤵

㤵

㜵

㜵

㈵

㈵

㄰

㄰

㤵

㤵

㜵

㜵

㈵

㈵

antiageing ageing ㄰

㄰

㤵

㤵

㜵

㜵

㈵

㈵

The Brain-Body Connection and Longevity

By Paul Taylor Exercise Physiologist, Neuroscientist & Nutritionist

When we are addressing the issue of anti-ageing protocols we need to also acknowledge the role that movement plays in supporting and enhancing one’s longevity and youthfulness. Despite that as aestheticians we may not be engaging in such activities within our practice, nevertheless we need to become aware of what science is confirming and educate and encourage our clients to incorporate exercise as part of their anti-ageing regime. There is now a whole body of research as to how movement can impact our body in terms of disease prevention, wellbeing and enhance our moods.

Paul Taylor is a true expert and educator in this field. In this article he presents some incredible scientific findings on the brain/body connection.

The French philosopher and mathematician Renee Descartes was a brilliant man. Among the many great things that he came up with was the phrase “I think, therefore I am”. He also proposed the idea of Dualism, in which he viewed the mind and the body as separate entities. It has pervaded much of Western medicine and research for centuries, but we are now beginning to understand how wrong that approach is.

As an example, consider the following: On December 6th and 7th, 2004, 48 of the world’s leading scientists gathered in Los Angeles for an expert workshop on The Neurobiology of Exercise1. They wrote a scientific paper as a result of that workshop and here is a direct quote from the journal article: “It is now accepted that the brain controls mental, physiological, and behavioural processes; that brain functioning is controlled by genes; that social, developmental, and environmental factors can alter gene expression; and that alterations in gene expression induce changes in brain functioning and behaviour.” ㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

What is clear from this is that humans are a complex interaction of genes, brain function, behaviour, environmental factors and gene expression.

Much of the focus on disease and ageing has historically been around genetics. However, Thomas Pearls, the highly respected Harvard University researcher and a world-renowned expert on longevity, estimates that genes contribute only around 30% to our longevity the rest is lifestyle, or environmental factors.

The role of genes is best summed up by the Nobel Prize winning neuroscientist Eric Kandel, who has said, “Genes are not deterministic. They do not operate in a vacuum. Genes are the servants of the environment”.

What all of these researchers mean by the “environment” is things such as stress, exercise, environmental toxins and nutrition. Indeed, we now know that these four environmental factors have powerful epigenetic effects – that is, they have the ability to regulate our gene expression. It's not the cards you're dealt, it's how you play them!

Every day we make choices that influence our gene expression and impact our longevity – what we choose to eat, how much we sit, whether we exercise, whether we focus on positives or negatives, and how we deal with stress.

LONGEVITY THEORIES To understand how these choices impact longevity, it is helpful to take a quick look at the predominant theories of longevity. All of them have an impact on how quickly we age and if and when we develop chronic diseases.

Telomeres – All of our cells are programmed to die at some point, but before they do, they replicate, which enables us to continue living. To replicate, a cell must “copy” its DNA. Telomeres are important for this to happen properly, and avoid flaws that can create disease. We now know that stress can shorten telomeres2 – lifestyle has a significant impact on telomeres through an important enzyme called telomerase3.

1.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

APJ 68

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㄰

2.

Inflammation – What I'm talking about here is inflammation at a cellular level, which is now known as the “silent killer” as it plays a role in most chronic diseases. We know that nutrition, body composition and physical activity all have a significant impact on inflammation. Being overweight, unfit and eating too much omega 6 fats (from vegetable oils in processed foods) all drive up systemic inflammation and negatively impact longevity.

㤵 㜵

㈵

㈵

3.

Longevity genes – We have already discussed the role of

environmental factors in gene expression. Physical exercise alone has a positive influence on a huge amount of genes that are involved in the health of the immune system, anti-ageing, metabolic processes and brain health and plasticity4. A study by Dean Ornish found that three months of exercise and diet intervention changed the expression of over 500 genes5.

4.

Free Radicals – We all know that they're bad for us, but not many know that by far the best way to neutralise them is inside the cell where they are produced. Our ability to do this depends on genes that encode cellular enzymes such as superoxide dismatuse and catalyse. The best way to up-regulate the expression of these critical enzymes is to exercise, but we also need antioxidants from food to produce them.

I would like now focus on one particular growth factor that is critical for brain health, known as Brain-derived Neurotrophic Factor, or BDNF. This has been called “miracle grow for the brain” because it is critical for our brains to produce new neurones. Once they are produced, BDNF protects these neurones from damage as they mature, and it can even protect mature neurones from damage by stress, toxins, stroke and traumatic brain injury.

When you also consider that conditions such as Obesity, Cardiovascular Disease, Dementia Cognitive Impairment and Diabetes all involve low levels of BDNF6, you begin to realise the importance of it.

What's more, BDNF has recently been recognised to play a significant role in energy homeostasis. It is released into exercising muscles and significantly improves the muscles' ability to burn fat, so it now appears to play a significant role in both the body and the brain.

BDNF is now one of the Holy Grails for drug companies, but the best way to naturally produce it is through exercise – and it appears that it needs to be at a sufficient intensity – one that people rate as “somewhat hard” to “hard”7.

It also has an interaction with food – a typical “western diet” of high saturated fat and high sugar destroys BDNF and has a negative impact on brain plasticity and learning, while Omega 3 fats can enhance levels of BDNF.

For information on the Full Salon Treatment Ranges of Circadia by Dr. Pugliese Contact 1800 247 223 genes that are modifiable by diet or exercise, and that also have an impact on physical health, brain function and longevity, through their impacts on lipid metabolism, oxidative stress, inflammation, stress reactivity, resilience, depression, diabetes and Alzheimer's risk.

Everyone is an individual, and his or her longevity program should reflect that.

REFERENCES 1. Dishman et al. Obesity 2006; 14(3): 345-56 2. Epel et al. PNAS 2004; 101(49): 17312-315 3. Ornish et al. Lancet Oncol 2008; 9: 1048-57 4. Cotman & Berchtold . Trends in Neurosciences 2002; 25(6): 295301 5. Ornish et al. PNAS 2008; 105(24): 8369-74 6. Perersen et al. Exp Physiol 2009; 94(12): 1153-60 7. F e r r i s e t a l . M e d S c i S p E x e r 2 0 0 6 D O I : 10.1249/mss.0b013e31802f04c7

PERSONALISED MEDICINE ㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

So what are the implications for what we can do to help our clients prolong longevity and quality of life? I believe the answer is in personalised medicine. When you understand Genetics and Epigentics, and the interactions between these factors and brain function, behaviour and longevity, you can't ever consider a one-sizefits-all approach.

Behavioural psychologists will tell you that measuring something is critical if you are to achieve your goals. That's why I now perform genetic screening and functional brain assessments on clients, as it allows for the creation of a personalised intervention. We only test

Paul Taylor is an Exercise Physiologist, Neuroscientist & Nutritionist and “Body and Brain Overhaul” presenter. Paul is the CEO of Personal Training Academy, Acumotum and the Body Brain Performance Institute. He is a former Royal Navy Aircrew Officer, an exercise physiologist and nutritionist who has designed his own system of evidence-based fitness science, called “Scientific Holism”. He is an irreverent, charismatic international speaker and educator whose style makes for riveting television.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

To attend the Lifestyle Education talk with Paul Taylor please call (03) 9516 8888 or email info@acumotum.com

APJ 69

㄰

memberprofile

㤵 㜵

㈵

The reason that APAN exists as an organisation is to advocate initiatives on behalf of the aesthetics industry for its advancement both academically and commercially and specifically for the benefit of its members.

APAN Members are not only professionals, but also ordinary human beings who daily face the challenges of juggling personal and professional life. This year we are delighted to continue profiling a different member in each issue of APJ as this has been welcomed by many of you who have indicated your appreciation of this feature. It would appear that many of our readers enjoy learning about their colleagues and discovering who they really are, their views and opinions.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

In this issue we interviewed Sue Osborne, owner of Visible Difference The Skin Centre, situated in Pialba, Hervey Bay, Queensland. Sue has a very interesting background. She is an attractive, no-nonsense woman who looks at least 10 years younger than her age – a perfect advocate for her current profession. She is married and would you believe it, has a 30-year-old son.

APJ1: Tell us a little about yourself and where and when you studied?

SUE: I am 52 years old, and I entered this industry in 1996. I came from Melbourne where I was a policewoman for 16 years. I needed a change in profession and lifestyle, so I looked around, got my Workplace Trainer qualifications and tried teaching Security, Crowd Control and Communications for a couple of years. Then on a holiday to Great Keppel Island I was inspired by the empty Day Spa rooms over there. I said to myself, I could learn how to become a beauty

therapist and open my own business on Great Keppel Island, but I never got around to getting back there.

㄰

However, I did pursue this new career path. I completed my initial training at TAFE in Hervey Bay, and needed to find a place to do my work experience. That is when I found The Visible Difference Remedial Centre.

The owner never took work experience girls, but she saw something different in me. I did one day every week throughout my training and the day I qualified she hired me as a staff member. I learnt a lot from working there and it fuelled my desire to continue to learn more. I was always looking for more courses to enhance my knowledge and skills. One day the owner came to me with an offer to buy her business, as she wanted to retire.

And so I purchased the business in March 2002.

㜵

㤵

㈵

I was a great employee, but now I had to learn to become a successful business owner. While attending the Melbourne Beauty Expo a month after purchasing the business I found myself a business coach. He in turn introduced me to the fantastic industry expert Gay Wardle. I probed my business coach for as much as I could get from him and hung on tight to Gay Wardle's coat-tails for as much knowledge as I could from her – what a fantastic experience that was!

This industry is so incredible, there is so much to learn, always great courses and great trainers about, so many products, so many services, to me, it's like a kid in a lolly shop, you have to try everything!

It has been so much fun. I finally found a career that was not life-threatening, and offered great rewards.

I have turned a small beauty salon that just did simple facials, massage and of course waxing into The Visible Difference Skin Centre. We have a great reputation for helping those with skin issues. We do a huge range of services and have won recognition at our local Business Awards three times, our last being the Customer Service Award 2010.

APJ2: What aspect of your work do you love the most?

SUE: I love the challenge of taking someone with problematic skin, treating them with services that really work and educating them about the appropriate home care. I enjoy helping teenage kids with acne problems. I love it when they complain to me that they have “one zit”. I know then that all the training and hard work is worth it.

APJ3: How has advanced technology over the years changed the results you can get? Give us some examples?

SUE: When I first trained in this industry it was with Madame Korner products, which was a simple, but a lovely range. This was the product that was originally used in The Visible Difference Remedial Centre. Equipment was electrolysis, cold beam laser and galvanic current. That was about it. Then I discovered Microdermabrasion – wow, what a machine. I love what I can achieve with it. I used to gaze lovingly at the new technology of IPL, but they were so expensive and I thought I would never be able to afford to buy one, let alone invest in gaining the qualifications to use it. It was a dream that only lasted a couple of years, then beautiful Gay Wardle came to my rescue and

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

APJ 70

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

suggested a great machine within my price range and Trudy Fleming as a trainer. I learnt so much from Tudy, she is also a fantastic lady and full of knowledge. Now armed with my great products, Aspect and Danne, as well as my equipment, incredible results are so easily achievable. Years of struggling with cases like acne and pigmentation can now be addressed with greater ease and better results. Hair removal through the use of IPL is also such a great concept.

Advancement in technology is moving so fast now, and you must keep up with progress or your services will become outmoded. Our clientele are so Internet-savvy so they sometimes get to hear about new treatments before we do. There are now many choices as to what a salon wishes to specialise in. I believe you need to decide what you want to be known for and excel in those services. I decided that I wanted to be able to offer advanced procedures and therefore I had to invest in the latest technology as much as possible in order to be able to offer the expected results. But I still provide the softer, nurturing services with our Pure Fiji Day Spa room. I like to cover all bases as clients still value and appreciate the pampering experience.

APJ4: What new areas have you introduced to your salon in the past 12 months?

SUE: Last year I bought a Sub-dermal Clinical Body Shaper. I looked around and researched my options. This investment was as a result of listening to my clientele. Everyone was on diets; we all had fat we couldn't move, so I investigated and tried various equipment to melt away fat! I found the one I wanted and then launched the treatments in my salon by promoting them with a cheeky ad on TV and radio, and now body shaping is one of the most popular services we offer. In fact, I have one staff member dedicated to this device and its treatments.

APJ5: Name people who have been an inspiration to you in your profession?

SUE: The first and foremost person whom I admire and who has

I also spend a lot of time at my computer. I love marketing and am always designing something new for my business. I believe when times are tough, work with your existing clients, they are already your customers, so help educate them on everything you can offer them. I have proven that if you are diligent, even in this financial crisis, you can still continue to grow your business, that is my experience I have grown my business, not lost business. It takes time and effort and luckily I love the challenge of new ideas.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

APJ8: What product do you love the most and why?

SUE: Oh, this is a hard one. I suppose it would have to be Cellablation by Aspect. It is the best exfoliant I have ever used. It resurfaces the skin without any trauma. It uses silica crystals from the black bamboo, as well as a wealth of anti-oxidants, EFAs and calming plant extracts. It is truly like a microdermabrasion treatment we can all use at home. It's amazing, your skin is smoother, brighter and healthier-looking.

APJ9: Why did you choose to belong to APAN? SUE: I wanted to belong to a forward-thinking association – one that was dedicated to the betterment of the therapist and business owner. APAN has the backing of a great line-up of experts in all the fields we could possibly require to help us with our daily work areas, whether you are a therapist or a business owner. They hold excellent training days and their recent New Horizons Expo and Educational Seminar Program they conducted in Hervey Bay was an exciting and informative event with excellent content. APAN's APJ Journal is a great resource tool for any therapist or business owner. It offers quality educational articles and up-to-date information on the latest technologies and industry developments. It provides me with some great reading with excellent information on new technology and what is happening in the industry.

influenced me is Gay Wardle. I admire her greatly. Gay is full of knowledge and enthusiasm for the industry. She has helped me tremendously over the years. She is a fantastic trainer and a real inspiration to me. I have learnt so much from her.

Trudy Fleming has also been instrumental in helping me master IPL treatments and achieve the results I can achieve.

Flo Barrett transformed the way I view skin. I completed my first Advanced Skin Analysis Course with her, which opened up my mind to understanding the skin in a whole new way.

Kerry, my first beauty therapist, who I went to when I was 16. She introduced me to what one woman can achieve in this business. Kerry was 18 when I first met her in her first year of business. She is still going strong and we still catch up when I visit Melbourne and share experiences.

APJ6: How do you relax?

SUE: I love reading. Any book – murder mysteries. I also love to

㄰

read theoretical and technical information that will benefit my work. I often read while my husband watches the cricket. He gives me a running commentary on what is happening. However, I find cricket is so boring, I will settle for a good book any time. I always have a couple going at the same time.

㄰

㤵 㜵

㈵

㤵

APJ7: What are your hobbies and favourite pastimes?

SUE: I love travelling and seeing new places and meeting new

㜵

people. One day I am determined to visit Europe. However, my new pastime is to learn to play the piano. I bought myself an electronic piano for Christmas. I have always said I wanted to learn, so finally I have taken the plunge. My teacher encourages me to be patient and practise regularly.

㈵

APJ 71

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

regionalevent The power of Industry Connection and Networking for PROFESSIONAL and BUSINESS Growth.

APAN Regional Expo and Conference

The event, New Horizons in Beauty and Wellness was supported by 18 suppliers and manufacturers who exhibited their products and services and 60 delegates, most of which were business owners salon owners who came from Hervey Bay and various other towns in the region.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

Our aim was to provide quality education as well as valuable networking opportunities that will support business and professional development for salons in the region. It also allowed suppliers to develop relationships with salon owners and to promote their products and services.

The calibre of both exhibiting companies as well as delegates was very high and there was a real buzz and excitement throughout In reviewing industry needs through feedback APAN has identified that regional areas are in great need for support and education. Regional and rural areas have some of the most dedicated and successful salons, spas and clinics.

However, while they are eager to stay up-to-date with progress and provide their clients with the very best in products and treatments they often do not have the same opportunities to be exposed to as many seminars and suppliers as their city counterparts do.

While in 2009 APAN conducted seminars in Sydney, Brisbane, Gold Coast, Adelaide and Perth we decided in 2010 to turn our attention to where the demand was greater. As a result our first regional event was staged at Hervey Bay in Queensland on the 21st November 2010 held at Pepper's Resort.

The decision to choose this location was as a result of Shirley Stubbs from Spa Botanica at Peppers, a member of APAN who approached us to conduct an expo/seminar program in the region. Shirley touted Hervey Bay's idyllic location, and in particular, Pepper's Resort, which is one of the most exquisite landmarks of the region.

the whole day with most delegates remained for the full day attending the seminar program and visiting the various stands. Over 100 lucky door prizes were up for grabs, which ensured that everyone in attendance was able to secure a gift.

THE SPEAKERS The line-up of speakers was exceptional and many recognised that success in difficult economic times will depend on how the industry stays “connected” to changes that are happening within the industry.

This event offered the industry an opportunity to gain excellent information and education to step up their services and business approach so that they can continue to maintain and grow their businesses.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㄰ 㤵 㜵

The event was open by APAN CEO Tina Viney who presented statistics on how consumer trends are changing and alerted the industry to make the necessary adjustments to progressively incorporate wellness treatments and strategies that can support not only their clients' appearance but also their wellbeing. She also stressed that there is now a need for the industry to take on a more

㈵

㈵

APJ 72

㄰

㄰

㤵

㤵

㜵

㜵

㈵

㈵

scientific approach to how they assess the skin as more advanced ingredients and trans-epidermal delivery systems both in skincare and equipment are introduced into the industry.

㄰

Sue Graham from GrayClay followed and picked up on this topic to present new educational pathways that are now available for postgraduate education for the industry. She clarified how formal training can not only allow the industry to introduce additional modalities, but also equip them to stay within the legislative requirements of responsible practice.

㤵 㜵

㈵

expect to get from your treatments. She cautioned the industry on certain ingredients that may compromise health based on recent research findings and presented simple strategies on how to optimise ones wellbeing.

The new trend in effective integration of equipment technology was addressed by Bonnie Sleep who presented some very interesting findings on how these technologies affect the body in terms of wellness as well as how they interact on a cellular level to achieve results. While Bonnie is the distributor for Caci International her lecture was totally generic and the depth of information presented was greatly appreciated by all.

Caroline Nelson in her trademark no-nonsense approach challenged salon owners with her new salon strategies that will allow businesses to plan effectively for their success and motivated salon owners to review their whole marketing approach and maximise their business performance for the months ahead.

How Cosmetic Tattoo is evolving as a popular anti-ageing procedure was present by Val Glover-Hovan who also discussed the importance of identifying correct training to ensure that your procedures meet with the new industry standards and consumer expectations.

Dr Dzung Price addressed the issue of toxicity that hinders not only health and our longevity, but also compromises the results you can

Delegates also gained the opportunity to speak to suppliers, which kept the even buzzing with activity. Channel 7 was alerted of the event by the

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

APJ 73

㄰

㄰

㤵

㤵

㜵

㜵

㈵

㈵

very vigilant Brand New Solutions (PR and marketing experts) from Sydney that resulted in the event being highlighted on the following day's Channel 7 News.

NEW EVENTS FOR 2011 The feedback from all was extremely positive encouraging APAN to continue its strategy in this direction and progressively target several States for these regional events.

In 2011 plans are under way for events to be staged in NSW, CANBERRA and QUEENSLAND. The APAN BUSINESS & PROFESSIONAL DEVELOPMENT EXPO & SEMINARS will include a comprehensive Education Seminar Program presented by leading educators and speakers on a variety of topics. Exhibitors will be limited to no more than 20 companies so we urge suppliers who wish to be represented to please contact us with their expressions of interest. ㄰

TESTIMONIALS: 㤵 㜵

㈵

“It was a fantastic event my staff and I gained an incredible amount of knowledge from the seminars. I loved the smaller, intimate size as well. I enjoyed spending more time with each of the exhibitors and learning more about their products and services rather than running around to see everything as we do a bigger event. It was great having such a quality event at our region too. We gained great value and will definitely attend future events.” Allayne Mimi, Dare Beauty Bundaberg.

Shirley Stubbs and staff member at Spa Botanica at Peppers, Hervey Bay “Best event I have every attended! Got heaps out of it. Loved the unique style and intimacy. I got to speak to all the exhibitors and gained valuable information, which I don't have the opportunity to do at the big expo in Sydney. We drove from NSW to attend and it was worth every minute. I left uplifted and inspired with a great deal of valuable knowledge. I am thrilled we decided to go and will attend again.” Sonia D'Errey La Belle Lumiere and Lavender Blue Day Spa, Murwillumbah NSW.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

For further information or if you would like be informed of forthcoming APAN regional events email: info@apanetwork.com, phone: 07 55930360 or visit www.apanetwork.com

㈵

APJ 74

Discover the secret ...

Next Generation Technology

Superbody Cavitation & RF

i-Pulse Smar t IPL (Intelligent & compact)

i-Blanket (Infrared inchloss)

Oxygen Facial Spa & LED

Electroporation (No needle filler)

Medi Micro Turbobrasion

Teeth Whitening

Super LED

Missing the finishing touch?

Free delivery and training

Ph: 07 5593 4488 sales@skino2.com.au

9-5 support help desk 1 year full factory warranty Priced from $899 + GST

Mineral Makeup Tester Display $99 This offer only valid to professional hair & beauty salons

www.skino2.com.au

newmemberbenefit ㄰

㄰

㤵

㤵

㜵

㜵

㈵

㈵

SOCIAL MEDIA MARKETING How this new trend can

BOOST YOUR BUSINESS GROWTH

By Robert Rawlings In many industries not only in Australia, but also globally, the impact of social media has totally transformed their profile and increased their clientele and business turnover some as much as 100 per cent. These new revolutionary tools have become the centrepoint of discussion in the business world. While the aesthetic industry has flirted with the idea of introducing Facebook or Twitter, often they have failed to achieve the benefit of their full potential because of poor service or due to insufficient updates to their sites.

Robert Rawlings has been accepted as APAN’s new strategic alliance partner as a specialist in Social Media Marketing. He has been involved in Internet Marketing since 2006 where he formed great alliances with some of the most successful Internet-based businesses in the world. Rob has taken this knowledge and used it for his very own business. Since 2009 he has been very busy learning and understanding the social media world and has assisted local businesses in utilising the benefits of Social Media marketing to their advantage to grow their client-base and increase their turnover.

Now he wants to utilise his passion in Social Media marketing by helping the Aesthetics and Beauty industry. Rob has a close relationship with this industry, as his partner is a therapist and several close friends are salon owners. These relationships have given him the advantage over other Social Media marketers, helping him understand the specific needs and the frustration that many salons experience, while being in a position to provide solutions.

Robert will be presenting a series of articles to assist our readers to better understand the importance of these incredible tools in helping them achieve growth, even in economically challenging times.

㄰

As we move into the early part of this year this is the best time for reviewing and revising business strategies to align them with a company's goals. Smart business owners watch for trends and forecasts and discern their impact on their bottom line. Foremost among the latest trends to increase momentum in 2011 is what is known as “social media marketing” as experts foresee greater integration of social networks and businesses as part of sales and marketing strategies.

㤵 㜵

FACEBOOK STATISTICS

㈵

Consider the numbers. Social media giant Facebook currently has more than 500 million active users in its network. Out of this number, around 50% or 250 million people from around the world log on to this network every day. And contrary to popular thought, the fastest growing Facebook demographic is 35-55-year-olds. This huge population of potential consumers is the primary reason why two

million websites have already integrated with Facebook, and an additional 10,000 continue to integrate with this giant network every day.

People spend over 700 billion minutes per month interacting with other users and acting on content created by Facebook users each day.

As a result, advertisers, companies, marketers and entrepreneurs from a wide range of industries have created user accounts and “Fan Pages” hoping to promote their products and services to this growing network. Clearly, Facebook has changed the way people conduct business today.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

WHAT IS SOCIAL MEDIA MARKETING The Handbook of Internet Marketing Terms (2011 edition) defines social media as “a category of sites that is based on user participation and user-generated content”. They include social networking sites like

㈵

APJ 76

㄰ 㤵 㜵

LinkedIn, Facebook or My Space, social bookmarking sites like Del.icio.us, social news sites like Digg or Simpy, and other sites that are centred on user interaction.

Any activity that allows a business to connect and interact with potential consumers or clients in any of these social networks constitutes social media marketing.

㈵

With the guidance of a social media marketing specialist, it is even possible to link accounts with each of these platforms, where you simply post to one site and a “link wheel” process takes over. This sees the message moving from one account to the next, collecting more followers along the way, and, as a consequence, more social proof for your product or service.

Using Facebook as an example, social media marketing can include:

! ! ! ! ! !

Creating a community page in Facebook or a business page bearing the name of your salon business, Creating a Fan Page for your business on Facebook Inviting friends to “Like” your salon’s page Posting links to your salon's website Creating and advertising coupons for value-added offers** Adding a signup tab where visitors and members of your beauty salon's page can leave their email addresses

** These can be set to only appear on the pages of people in the geographic regions you nominate: your State, your city, your suburb.

Facebook alone presents endless possibilities in marketing as more applications and tools are continuously being developed specifically for its platform. Add the power of other social networking sites as well and, with the guidance of a social media marketing specialist, the opportunities are limitless.

HOW SOCIAL MEDIA BENEFITS BEAUTY SALON MARKETING Business awareness: One of the goals of beauty salon marketing is to create an awareness of the business. Doing this is easy, particularly, again, on Facebook. Facebook also allows individual users to create business pages and post online (paid) ads for a targeted audience. The key is to invite people you know to “add” your account as a “friend” or “Like” your salon's Fan Page. You can grow this network by adding friends of your friends and so on. Adding “friends” and suggesting that they “Like” your business page promotes instant awareness, as people tend to view a profile or page before “adding” or “liking” it.

Word-of-mouth advertising: The success of a salon is

㄰ 㤵 㜵

determined by its reputation among clients who can share positive experiences about its services and products, or the experiences of their friends, through word-of-mouth. Social media marketing is a powerful tool for generating word-of-mouth advertising through Facebook options for sharing photos, links and user-provided content among people who are outside your network. Photo tagging options also allow you to push images of new products to friends' networks.

Engaging in any of these activities regularly in Facebook propels indirect advertising among more users.

Increase website traffic: Linking your website to your ㈵

Facebook account is a powerful way of driving Facebook users to your own site, mini site, or your business' page on an industry side.

This boosts your site's visibility in search engines. This technique is

more commonly known in Internet marketing as “search engine optimisation” or SEO. Increasing site traffic has many advantages for your beauty salon. It attracts more potential clients, increases opportunities for on-line bookings, and, importantly, boosts your salon's chances of being found on the Internet.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

Build and maintain relationships: A database of clients and potential clients is a goldmine for any business, including a beauty salon. You can announce new services and follow up on past services with existing clients. Growing your business involves increasing your clients' spend per visit or frequency of visits, and building your client list as well. Facebook's options for inviting people to join your salon's network make it easy to grow your client list. A Facebook page may also be used for client maintenance and encourage client loyalty by keeping in touch with them through Facebook. It is a great idea to post useful tips and content, respond to their questions and even include a little about your activities.

Particularly if you live in a small community, promoting special local events can draw more people to you.

㈵

Market research: Develop new products and services by listening to your target market's problems and needs, which you can readily find in Facebook discussions, wall posts and comments.

Target the right market: Facebook’s user demographics changed rapidly in the previous year as more people from the age of 35 and older are signing up for accounts, indicating that Facebook users are getting older. This is music to the ears for the beauty salon or clinic that caters to the mature market with specialised skin-treatment requirements. Facebook ads also make use of network demographics, so your compelling ads are displayed only at the walls of a specified group.

Marketing in social networks is a powerful technique for increasing revenues and profits at surprisingly inexpensive costs that even establishments on a shoestring budget can afford. Owners need not worry about conducting their salon marketing on their own because specialists can take care of planning and implementing strategies and measuring actual results of marketing campaigns.

Marketing experts believe that if there's only one trend that you can adopt in 2011, it would have to be social media marketing. It is the tool for the present and the future.

Robert Rawlings has been involved in Internet Marketing since 2006 and since 2009 he has been heavily involved with local business marketing and in particular social media marketing.

Having gained and assisted international clients he now is focusing on bringing his expertise to the aesthetics and beauty industry, including salons, clinics and suppliers. He believes that the success of these tools is not determined by if you introduce social media, but rather how you use social media. We all know how powerful wordof-mouth is in communicating information, well Social Media can be considered as word-of-mouth on steroids. ㄰

If you would like to speak to Robert Rawlings about introducing or improving your Social Media marketing strategies and capabilities please contact him at: H.S.B.Marketing phone 07 4183 0285, mobile: 0429 093 852 or email: rob@hsbm.me www.highspeedsocialmarketing.com

APAN MEMBERS please quote your membership number and request your SPECIAL MEMBER’S PACKAGE DISCOUNT RATE.

㤵 㜵

㈵

APJ 77

salonbusiness ㄰

㄰

㤵

㤵

㜵

㜵

㈵

㈵

What do Clients Buy when they come into your Salon?

by Phillip Fernandez Have you ever asked yourself when a client comes into your salon, what are they really buying? This is a very interesting question indeed.

Isn't it obvious one might say that they are purchasing your products and/or services. Yes, to a degree this is true, but what they are really buying are your values.

Values tell people what is good, beneficial, important, useful, beautiful, desirable, constructive, etc. They answer the question of why people do what they do. Values help people solve common human problems for survival. Over time, they become the roots of traditions that people groups find important in their day-to-day lives.

Don't values belong to people? Yes they do, so what they are also really buying is the values that you and your staff reflect.

Values are related to the norms of a culture, but they are more global and abstract than norms. Norms are rules for behaviour in specific situations, while values identify what should be judged as good or evil. Flying the national flag on a holiday is a norm. Different cultures reflect different values.

Well what about the skills and knowledge? Yes, you do need them as well, but what the client is buying is the total experience, and values are a big portion of that total experience.

Let's ask ourselves where do our values come from. Values come from our parents, schools and institutions, close friends as you grow up and the environment we have experienced from birth to now. These values are also part of the subconscious and so we exercise them and live with them in their "Unconsciously Competent" state. In other words, we exercise these values spontaneously without thought. These ingrained values also equip us to decipher what is right and what is wrong.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

To take it one step further, values come from your self-belief, which in turn comes from four main areas: ! Generational ! Experiential ! Cultural ! Spiritual.

Values are an integral part of every culture. Along with worldview and personality, they generate behaviour. Being part of a culture that shares a common core set of values creates expectations and predicability without which a culture would disintegrate and its members would lose their personal identity and sense of worth.

As you can see these values are pretty difficult to hide and your clients can feel and experience these values when they are in conversation with you. This comes out in what you say, feel and do unconsciously. I often ask the question if values are different at work or are they always consistent, even when you are outside the work environment? Some believe that they are different. But, they really are one and the same.

You cannot switch your values on and off like a light switch.

Let me give you an example; if integrity and caring are two values you have, how can you switch them off when you leave your work? They are ingrained in you because that is who you are. You can choose not to exercise them, but they are important to you, so if you ignore them you will not feel too good about yourself.

MISSION STATEMENTS Values are seen in Mission Statements of businesses. Mission Statements have been abused over the decades and so many businesses do not place importance in them, or even understand the underlying implications that they bring to a business.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

APJ 78

㄰ 㤵 㜵

Your Mission Statement is what your client experiences that embody the characteristics and values of the Salon owner and the staff. It also embraces the ambience, music, décor, colour of the salon, how the coffee is served, the smiles, the caring and the little things that are delivered above standard expectations. It also includes the "Wow" factors, and lastly, the quality, technical expertise and skill level of the staff.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

㈵

This statement should only be one or at the most two sentences. It should be thought- provoking and emotional enough that it tugs on the heartstrings of the client. It could be said that in a way you are wearing your Mission Statement as a business tattoo on your arm, inviting clients and potential clients to test you on what you will deliver every time. It should automatically raise the service bar and hence raises the benchmark. It should compel excellence and consistency in your business and from your staff.

LEADERSHIP SKILLS The next step is to look at systemising your business. It starts at the top with your leadership. Your staff will buy into what systems you put in place. These should include accountability, ensuring the salon brand and culture is in sync. You should include effective communication in the workplace, and above all, a Policy and Procedure manual that is staff friendly and easy to follow.

One of my favourite sayings is "Fish rots from the head first". This is so relevant in any organisation and involves any leader or manager in any business. The characteristics of a great leader are many and I will not be going through each and every one of them here, but one of the most important characteristic is the ability to know that no matter how good a manager or business owner is, they do not know everything. It is therefore, not a sign of weakness to say, "I do not know the answer to the problem or question right now". This will not only show a humble and courageous leader, but one that is humane and this simple gesture will gain them immense respect from the staff. This manager would go on to say, "Let's work on this together and come up with a solution".

SALON BRAND AND CULTURE ARE IN SYNC How sure are you about what the client sees from the outside of the salon, to when they come into the salon? Does the feeling about the facade, the website, the marketing and the advertising coincide with what the client experiences when they enter the salon?

EFFECTIVE COMMUNICATION IN THE WORKPLACE

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

This is extremely critical in any work environment. Are we asking the intelligent questions to find out what the client really needs and to also get to know the client’s likes and dislikes? Do we really show empathy and does the client perceive this? Are we really listening to the clients and what they are trying to communicate to us? As the saying goes, "A good listener is a good conversationalist". Equally important is the communication between peers, from manager to staff and vice versa.

This should be genuine, caring and clear.

POLICY AND PROCEDURE Do you have one of these? This is all about systemising the business.

It's about having everything written down so that there is no ambiguity, particularly with new staff. This manual should cover: ! Mission Statement ! Salon Culture ! Profile of the perfect employee ! Recruitment and Induction

! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! !

Induction Framework Training and Development Assessment and Appraisals Presentation and Dress-code Occupational Health and safety Remuneration and Incentive In-Salon Policy Retail Policy Empowerment Policy Confidential Clause and Restraint of Trade Harassment Policy Holiday and Leave Policy and probably not too much more.

This manual should also be staff-friendly and so must be laid out in plain English and be kept to the bare facts and business expectation.

Keeping it simple will allow staff to understand the document and so foster buy-in and ownership of company policies and procedures.

Now let's reconsider the question I raised at the beginning of this article - what do clients buy when they visit your salon? The answer is they buy values. These values start at the top from the salon owner and work down through the staff who demonstrate the salon's culture through their communication in the workplace and by carrying out the policy and procedures that the client sees, which is ultimately reflected in the Mission Statement. This is the SYNERGY of how it all comes together.

Phillip Fernadez is a human strategy specialist and the director of Wizard Business Consulting. If you believe Phillip can assist you with your business you can contact him on 1300 747 389, mobile: 0402 213 813, Email phillip@businesswizards.com.au. or visit www.businesswizards.com.au

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

APJ 79

SPOTLIGHT ON PRODUCTS

㄰

㄰

㤵

㤵

㜵

㜵

ENERGIST Ultra Plus Spa The new 2011 Energist Ultra Plus Spa has been released with features that boost the already high-performance of the existing Ultra Plus.

Energist maintains its reputation as one of most precise and efficient IPLs available by adding the latest-release internal components and a new high-definition touchscreen interface that improves the user-friendly operation. The Ultra Plus Spa comes with two handpieces with lower limits of 530nm and 610nm.

Finance and rental options are available through High Tech Laser.

㈵

㈵

because you are special

Are you ready for Mother’s Day? Why not entice your clients to offer a Mother's Day Gift with APAN's attractive Mother's Day Gift Cards. Beautifully presented in high-end celloglaze finish these Vouchers display a beautiful arrangement of lilies and can also work as a card. On the back is a Gift Voucher layout that will allow you to place details of the value or treatment of choice and your contact details. Purchase these and a selection of our other cards. THE SPECIAL OFFER for the month of April is FREE POSTAGE for your order (normally $9.95). The cost ranges from $35 for 50. The more you buy the cheaper they become. Order today.

Visit our website to view the full selection of 12 designs for d i f f e r e n t n e e d s w w w. a p a n e t w o r k . c o m o r e m a i l info@apanetwork.com phone 07 5593 0360.

Call 1300 309 233 for information.

SKEYNDOR URBAN WHITE Dermapeel and Advanced Kit – A new level of professional result for pigmentation Skeyndor has just launched a new generation solution for pigmentation and ageing skin. URBAN WHITE DERMAPEEL is an advanced, professional kit that speedily and effectively treats the concerns of hyperpigmentation. It is designed to renew the skin for a clearer, more brighter-looking complexion. Pigmentation is not only unsightly, it also gives the face a more aged look. The treatment will deliver excellent results for all skin types and conditions including sensitive skin and should also be included as part of an antiageing facial treatment program.

URBAN WHITE DERMAPEEL is a cosmeceutical treatment designed to offer in-depth, intense exfoliation, whose results are comparable to medical-strength exfoliation. Used in conjunction with URBAN WHITE ADVANCED KIT it combines four different peeling techniques in one and the same session. It includes physical abrasion, ultrasonic microdermoabrasion (apparatus), acidic chemical exfoliation and enzymatic digestion of dead cells.

This combination is a new protocol that will allow you to achieve a more advanced result for stubborn pigmentation and ageing skin. To further accelerate the outcome of this treatment it can be combined with the innovative Skeyndor Meso-Science technology. For further information phone Vogue Image Group 1800 554 545.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

The Visible Solutions™ skincare line contains a patented reverse osmosis processing of a high-grade aloe vera and a combination of potent vitamins and anti-oxidants to promote healthy recovery and renewal of the skin and help support the skin's immunity by regulating its pH balance. Many other products use water as the base ingredient, which is not nearly as effective in delivering the nutrients to the skin.

This exclusive blend helps to naturally optimise collagen, protect moisture and raise hydration levels, increase and enhance elasticity and protect skin against free radical damage. Each component of the Visible Solutions Skin Care System also incorporates the proprietary Max Amino-Nutrient Complex™ making it a highly effective product range. Results of impressive clinical trials are available on request.

Visible Solutions™ – Advanced Skin Care by Max With so many factors conspiring to accelerate skin ageing you need advanced anti-ageing skin formulations that can offer you scientifically validated results provided by independent studies.

Now a new generation clinically proven skincare range has been launched by Max, the formulators of the nutritional supplements Max GXL, that accelerates a very important detoxifying nutrient – glutathione in the body.

APJ 80

For further details Phone 0466 090 709 Fariba Ghazi or email fariba@platinumpages.com

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

㄰

㄰

㤵

㤵

㜵

㜵

㈵

㈵

Introducing My Steppes – Just for Me Collection The well-rounded solution for your every beauty need

Salon Spa Business™ Tools

We've all been there. No matter how organised you think you are, you always forget something. It's really serious when it's your bronzer or lipgloss. Introducing the solution from Jane Iredale's new My Steppes – Just for Me Collection. This all-inone compact contains two lip glosses, a blush, a bronzer and a mirror for effortless touchups on the go. And what makes this all about you is that Jane has designed My Steppes around a colour selection that's perfect for your skin's undertone: My Steppes Cool containing Cotton Candy and Pomegranate, PureGloss for Lips, Barely Rose PurePressed Blush and the stunning So-Bronze 3.

My Steppes Warm contains Iced Mocha and Crabapple, PureGloss for Lips, Whisper PurePressed Blush and So-Bronze 3. Available from April 2011.

Business-building products for Time-Poor Salon Spa owners - The Salon Spa Staff Policies Procedures & Systems Manual is a fully-editable template recognised as the “beauty industry bible” and Blue-Print to best industry practices, an instant solution too many staffing issues. To create your own manual from scratch would take 1,000's of hours to research, formulate and complete.

Fortunately you can immediately download the template and customise to suit your own facility. Call Caroline

Be first to introduce it, phone Margi Fox Distributors 1300 850 008.

Nelson 0410600440 or www.SalonSpaBusiness.com

Luscious Pomegranate Skincare New age-defying products to nourish the skin – a must-have for all your clients Essential Stuff, Australia's first natural pomegranate skincare range, is currently revolutionising the nation's beauty industry with its ability to rapidly transform the skin while reversing the signs of ageing. Fast-acting and long-lasting, the Essential Stuff body range combines an incredible array of 100% active pure natural ingredients in high percentages, including nature's super fruit, pomegranate. Other ingredients include Olive, Rose Hip and Avocado Oils, Lecithin, Beta-carotene (vitamin A), Vitamin C and an selection of incredible essential oils, giving the product a very enticing aroma and feel. This super-food for the skin is the perfect anti-ageing solution for the body. The range includes Body Butter, Hand Cream, Foot Balm and a delightful Body Wash. Prices start from $14.81 wholesale.

You will achieve rapid sales with this incredible product.

For information phone Essential Stuff on 0427 070 364 and please quote this ad for your wholesale price.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

NEW generation Mystikol™ Powdered Eyeliner/Highlighter Mystikols are the latest smudge-proof, crease-proof and highly water-resistant dual-ended powder-eyeliner and highlighter to define the eyes with the latest look. You'll love the way the creamy powder formula obeys your every desire.

Hypoallergenic, dermatologist tested and formulated with exclusive skincare ingredients, Mystikols are safe for even the most sensitive eyes. Available in various shades – Onyx, Dark Topaz, Amethyst, Malachite and Lapislazuli. Just launched are an additional two new enticing shades – Citrine (a shimmering combination of ochre and metallic bronze with gold highlighter, and Aquamarine, a cool swim through tropical blue waters with a rose highlighter.

Phone Margi Fox Distributors for further details 1300 850 008.

APJ 81

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

㄰

㄰

Advanced Professional Skin Care Medical Edition

㤵 㜵

㤵 㜵

by Dr Peter T. Pugliese

㈵

If you are serious about the skin Dr Pugliese's A d v a n c e d Professional Skin Care Medical Edition is the book you must have. It is by far the most comprehensive textbook currently available, with over 450 pages of scientific information on everything that you need to know about the skin. While it is very advanced it is set out in a way that will allow you to step-by-step progress your information to a more scientific level. This is not a “how to” book, although it does offer protocols for advanced procedures such as microdermabrasion and pre and post-surgery treatments, as well as a comprehensive skin health questionnaire. It is, however, an advanced educational tool that will allow you to gain a deeper and more scientific understanding of what factors influence the skin and how to address them. It will definitely empower you to gain a great deal more from any advanced skin analysis training. For further information contact Circadia by

Dr Pugliese 1800 247 223 or Angela on 040 9 238 119.

㈵

New Scientific breakthrough Vitamin C (L-Ascorbic Acid) offering great stability and advanced penetration Jyunka have launched the Qu-some encapsulated multi-action miracle fluid, a new generation vitamin C serum that offers incredible penetration of potent vitamin C without the sensitivity issue often associated with L-Ascorbic Acid.

You will see an immediate lifting effect that will amaze you and your clients.

Long-term use will promote the production of collagen in skin tissue, revitalise and energise tired skin, improve skin radiance and luminosity and significantly diminish the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Furthermore, it will improve skin-barrier response, thus reducing epidermal moisture loss. You need to try this product to believe it.

Phone Jyunka 03 9821 0355 or 0401 807 253 or visit www.jyunka.com.au

10-MINUTE LIQUID FACE LIFT Originally developed by Dr Atia for his VIP celebrity clients, the 10-Minute Liquid Face Lift by Skin 02 delivers amazing results, instantly!

Containing an incredible formula of natural Plant Growth Factors combined with the most advanced antiageing peptides, collagen, natural acids, including hyaluronic acid and anti-ageing plant extracts in a deeppenetrating formula to ensure effective delivery for fast-acting results. This treatment is used by doctors and aesthetic therapists who are seeking immediate visible results, without the use of needles. The active ingredients are available in two vials and are mixed by the therapist prior to application. Repeat treatments are usually only needed every 612 months to help your clients continue to look great.

For further information phone SKIN 02 on 07 5593 4488 or visit www.skino2.com.au

VITAMIN C REVERSAL SERUM

SKIN 02

Next Generation Mineral Makeup ㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

Using makeup up that lets the skin breathe with added antioxidants and mineral benefits should be standard procedure for any salon or clinic that is serious about skincare. SKIN 02 uses micronised mineral that adapt to the individual skin tone. Amazingly, just four colours adapt to Asia, Indian and Caucasian skin tones.

Containing vitamins A, C, K and E and honeysuckle extract SKIN 02 Medical makeup provides excellent cover and protection for all skin types. SKIN 02 Medical Makeup also offers antiinflammatory properties so it is also suitable for rosacea and acne prone skin conditions. For further information contact SKIN 02

on 07 5593 4488 or visit www.skino2.com.au

APJ 82

Circadia by Dr Pugliese's Vitamin C Reversal Serum is excellent for tightening loose, ageing skin and supporting collagen integrity. It contains hyaluronic acid to bind moisture in the skin and Vitamin C in the form of Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate that offers superior antioxidant properties as well as Theophylline, renowned for its skin-firming properties. Circadia skincare also offers an incredible selection of advanced skin treatment products and protocols for clinical results. An example is the SWiCH Dermal Rejuvenation Systems that offer Oxygen Rx Therapy, DermalFrost Procedure, Lactic Acid Procedure, Alpha/Beta Procedure, MandeliClear Peel System and Jessner's Procedures and a variety of advanced enzyme treatments that are just the beginning. For further details contact

Circadia by Dr Pugliese 1800 247 223 or Angela on 040 9 238 119.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

Banish skin flaws in seconds with PERFECT TOUCH CONCEALER

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

Two New Lippies for your fussy clients There is no lipstick that can match Elite Natural Compatibles' Lipsticks when it comes to luxury and quality. Loaded with moisturising agents, Vitamin E, Essential Lavender, SPF 7+ protection and the perfect pigment density to achieve an incredible lip finish for any age or lip condition. Elite Natural Compatibles have two new shades you need to stock – a lovely golden warm tone “Chestnut” and a “Dusky Rose” cool tone.

Luxuriously presented in Gold and Black “bullet” casings, they offer a tempting purchase for any woman who appreciates quality at a reasonable price.

Contact Enhance by Natural Compatibles on 03 9764 0966 Email: marketing@naturalcompatibles.com.au www.naturalcompatibles.com

㄰

Conceal your skin imperfections and dark circles around the eye area with precision using Enhance by Natural Compatibles' “Perfect Touch Concealer”. Just released in Europe and a first for Australia, Perfect Touch Concealer delivers a fast-drying and superior staying power concealer with precise application. The unique spring-loaded action ensures the applicator is always loaded up and colour-ready, providing a seamless application tool. The gentle sponge tip enables easy application with precision around the delicate eye and contour area, and the gentle tapered tip allows for perfect application in even the smallest of places. All Perfect Touch Concealers are designed to be used on any part of the body and have a sensational staying power.

Available in five shades, RRP $30.00: Contact Enhance by Natural Compatibles on 03 9764 0966

㤵 㜵

㈵

Email: marketing@naturalcompatibles.com.au www.naturalcompatibles.com

2B BIO-PEEL – A VERY SPECIAL OFFER in thanks to Australian Salons Image Perfection does not have to cost the earth

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

Having your staff comfortable and stylish can substantially improve your salon's image and your staff's self-confidence. Vorei Designs are considered one of our industry's leading uniform designers, committed to manufacturing uniforms that are stylish, comfortable and of the highest quality. They can design to suit your salon's needs and even offer you a point of difference to ensure that you and your staff are not only comfortable, but always look their very best. If you are an APAN Member you will qualify for SPECIAL RATES. With their expertise they can make you and your staff the talk of your clients and the envy of your competitors. Phone Vorei Designs 08

9209 3299, email sales@voreidesigns.com.au or visit www.voreidesigns.com.au

When results really matter to your clients why not introduce them to the amazing 100% herbal peel by 2B Bio-Peel – known for its product excellence and in particular the incredible skin-resurfacing 100% natural herbal peel that achieves amazing results with stubborn conditions of acne, pigmentation and ageing skin. 2B BIO-PEEL is thanking Australian salons for making 2B such a successful skin-treatment tool and in particular an acne buster. The company is extending a GREAT SPECIAL to all salons – purchase 1 box of 30 peels plus 1 Prep Lotion, normally $488.50, for just $350. This offer is strictly for this AD ONLY – quote APJ 7 to qualify. This investment will return your salon $7,600 (calculated on 45 treatments x $170 per peeling treatment to your client). The cost to you will only be $7.77 per sachet.

To take advantage of this special offer phone PATOU AESTHETICS DISTRIBUTION on 07 4057 8365 or 0419 665 383.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

APJ 83

keyingredient botox ㄰

㄰

㤵

㤵

㜵

㜵

㈵

㈵

®

BOTOX

Safety, Results and the Therapeutic Use

by Dr Michael Zacharia One of the topics that caught my attention at the last anti-ageing medical and aesthetic conference hosted by the AustraAsian Academy of Anti-Ageing Medicine (A5M) was a live Botox® workshop on the Pan Facial, delivered

by Canadian Dr Martin Braun, considered as a leading expert in injectable techniques.

Despite that women have such a love affair with Botox®, there are still some (particularly in our Dr Michael Zacharia industry) who have concerns about the safety of its use, and in particular its long-term use. I therefore wanted to investigate the latest word on injectables and especially Botox®.

Dr Michael Zacharia is a specialist Ear, Nose and Throat (ENT) and Facial Plastic Surgeon, known for his experience in facial rejuvenation. He uses a combination of medical and surgical techniques to achieve the best results for his patients, for which he is renowned. Dr Michael Zacharia (as the President of A5M at the time) chaired Dr Braun's workshop and so we approached him to share with us his professional opinion on the safety, results and therapeutic use of Botox®.

APJ1: Dr Zacharia, at the recent A5M Conference there was a workshop on the Pan Facial. Can you please explain to us what it is?

Dr: Zacharia: Traditionally Botox® has been used to smooth ㄰ 㤵

out fine lines on the upper part of the face, such as frown-lines and crows-feet around the eyes. There are now new specific techniques that have been perfected that allow the lower face to also be treated so that the whole face can now be successfully treated - thus the Pan Facial.

At workshops you can always learn something new as everyone has their own way of doing things. If you have 10 people in a room who are doing the same procedure, you will probably find that they will all be slightly differently and each technique has its benefits. It is worth while viewing others even though the different techniques may be insignificant they could still contribute to less bruising or a slightly different result. Even if you pick up one or two things from someone else's technique it makes it worthwhile.

APJ3: What are the strengths and limitations of injectable fillers?

Dr. Zacharia: The main strengths that contribute to their popularity are first and foremost that they provide an immediate result. The other advantage is that if you do not like the result it will eventually diminish. The third benefit is that you can achieve a progressive change, adding to an area as the need arises, or as a face ages.

On the other hand, as we age we lose volume and skin sags and sometimes there is a limit as to how much can be improved through a "liquid facial". Some people believe that with one or two injections everything can change. This is why it is important for the physician to educate their client on what they can expect and what options they have if they need high volume. ㄰

changes and improvements can we expect from injectables and the results

Dr. Zacharia: First of all the doctor needs to identify what is

they can deliver?

the perceived problem. If the problem is due to an abnormality,

APJ2: In terms of techniques what

though there are some new developments such as using cannulas instead of needles. (A cannula is a blunt tube that can be inserted into the body, often for the delivery or removal of fluid. It can surround the inner or outer surfaces of a Trocar needle thus pushing the blood vessels out of the way rather than piercing them.)

APJ4: What are your thoughts on girls as young as 18 having injectable or surgical procedures? In your opinion should there be an age limit for having such procedures?

㜵

㈵

Dr. Zacharia: The procedures are not necessarily new, even

㤵 㜵

㈵

APJ 84

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

deformity or trauma this may warrant a procedure. On the other hand, if it is just vanity, it may not be appropriate, especially if it involves surgery that is not reversible. A lighter approach would be a better option.

scenery that has changed the face of the beauty industry. It is a pristine-looking glass-walled factory set in 12 hectares outside the picturesque town of Westport in County Mayo, which produces the entire world's supply of Botox®.

APJ5: Is it true that with long-term-use of injectables such as Botox® the muscles become conditioned and require less top-up? Is there an accumulative effect with continued use?

Since it began production in 1990, the factory has pumped out more than 26 million phials of the chemical, generating over $500 million a year. In 2009, at the height of the recession, the company reported an 8 per cent earnings growth.

Dr. Zacharia: With continued injectables there is no doubt that some muscles will not contract as much. For example the Masseter (cheek muscles) is a good example. Also, with continued injectables in the forehead the muscles can "forget" how to frown if they are relaxed for long periods of time. In my experience there may be a slight accumulative effect on larger muscles, but not elsewhere.

APJ6: As a surgeon as well as an antiageing physician do you have any concerns with regards to toxicity through long-term use of Botox® and similar injectables?

Dr Zacharia: In the past 20 years of its use we have not seen any known issues of toxicity. All medications are toxic to a certain degree. Botulinum is a very purified chemical. Furthermore, the dosage used is very small. There is the issue of it being purified, but I believe that the main reason why there seems to be no problem with its use is because of the very small doses needed to achieve results.

HISTORY AND NEW DEVELOPMENTS Botox® is 21 years old this year, but the bacterium Clostridium botulinum, from which the product is derived, was discovered as far back as 1895.

㄰

㤵 㜵

㈵

What makes investors "rather ecstatic", says the chief executive, David Pyott, is that Allergan has grown from a company that relied on "purely reimbursed" business from hospitals and clinics, to a booming cash business of private clients who use Botox® and other medical aesthetic treatments under the Allergan umbrella. These include dermal-fillers, breast implants and gastric bands.

"Even in the depths of the recession, the first half of 2009, the world market (for Botox®) only declined 9%," says Pyott. "In the recession what's happened is men have spread out their treatments (from every three months to four months) and women have fewer things done.”

HOW DOES IT WORK? The Botulinum toxin, which is produced by the bacterium Clostridium botulinum, works by blocking neuromuscular transmission, temporarily paralysing key muscles in the forehead.

But it isn't the beauty treatment that has the company so confident about future growth. There are at least 20 other applications for Botox®, including the recently approved application as a preventative medicine for chronic migraine - that opens up another potential goldmine.

There is an estimated 700,000 migraine sufferers in the UK alone reporting chronic head pain dizziness, nausea and headaches that can put someone out of action for up to two days at a time. The chronic form is defined as someone who has 15 headache days a month, of which at least eight are migraine.

By the 1950s scientists discovered the bacteria temporarily relaxed muscles, and so the story of Botox® began. Its first medical application was in 1989 and it was used to correct crossed eyes and uncontrolled blinking.

BREAKTHROUGH

The start of its use as a beauty treatment was accidental. An ophthalmologist in Canada treating a woman with crossed eyes noticed that it got rid of the patient's frowns around the eye area. It was finally unleashed on the market in 2000 and has since become a global phenomenon.

Allergan employs 800 staff in Westport, but the production of Botox® is now so automated that it only requires the direct labour of 80 people.

That's about $625,000 revenue per employee.

But that is only half the story. Botox® is also used to alleviate 20 other more serious conditions, including foot deformities in children with cerebral palsy; hyper-hydrosis (excessive under-arm sweating) and post-stroke spasticity (twisting of limbs and hands). It is currently also undergoing clinical trials as a treatment for weak bladders in multiple sclerosis sufferers and car-crash victims.

㄰

Analysts predict that the migraine breakthrough could generate revenue of between $400m and $1bn by 2015, almost double the company's turnover.

"The Botox® story is an amazing story and what's really unusual is that the best may still be to come," says Pyott, a Glasgow-born lawyer who has been chief executive since 1998.

"Right now our revenues are split 50:50 between cosmetic and therapeutic. But five years from now 70 per cent of our sales may come from its therapeutic use.” ㄰ ®

㤵 㜵

㈵

The manufacturer of Botox® is the pharmaceutical company Allergan who has seen cosmetic use of the toxin shrug off the recession, but now its potential for therapeutic treatments such as migraine and MS has created great excitement for the company.

Pyott lists off some of the other Botox applications in the pipeline. “It always starts in a severe population,” he says, referring to two future therapeutic applications: controlling weak bladders in multiple sclerosis sufferers and crash victims with spinal cord injuries. This is currently in clinical trials as is another weak bladder condition, affecting women over the age of 50.

So where is Allergan situated? To locate them look no further than the landscape around the west-coast of Ireland, which is breathtaking enough to wipe years off furrowed brows. But it is not the rugged Irish

㤵 㜵

㈵

APJ 85

skinscience ㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

PIGMENTATION REVISITED

A Scientific Approach

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

The melanocyte is a dendritic cell with finger-like projections and is found in the basal layer of the epidermis. It is a freeranging cell without desmosomes or tonofilaments. In appearance, microscopically it has a small dark nucleus and a clear cytoplasm, depending on the histological stain used to visualise it. Melanin is made in solid structures known as melanosomes. Melanosomes are organelles bound to membranes located in the cytoplasm of melanocytes that carry the tyrosinase enzyme. Melanosomes are responsible for melanin synthesis and pigment transfer from the melanocyte to the associated keratinocytes by a process called phagocytosis. In this article, the origin of the melanocyte, how the melanosome and melanin are formed, and how the melanosome is transferred from the melanocyte to the keratinocyte will be discussed.

㤵 㜵

㈵

THE EMBRYO

One week after conception until the end of the second month, a developing child is Reviewing the origin of melanocyte, the formation of known as an embryo. After the eighth week, the developing child is called a foetus. It is in melanosome and melanin, and how melanosomes the early stages of embryonic development transfer from melanocytes to keratinocytes. that melanocytes appear. Cellular division yields a small, hollow ball of cells, which By: Peter T. Pugliese, MD then invaginates to form a tube within a tube in a process known as gastrulation. The allpowerful embryonic cells now undergo an incredible change and Aestheticians are faced with problems of pigmentation every day. differentiate into three cell types that are called germ layers. The outer Some clients want to be lighter, some darker; some have white spots, layer is the ectoderm, the middle layer is the mesoderm and the inner dark pigmented spots, freckles or melasma. It is difficult to know what layer is the endoderm. This is an important bit of biological to do for most of these clients, without having a good foundation in the information because it is from these three cell layers that all the rest of science of pigmentation. It takes years to learn all there is to know a human's cells, tissues and organs originate. about human pigmentation, and even longer to put it into practical use.

Some additional background is needed in the As the gastrulation process basic science of pigment-formation, as well progresses, the mesodermal as more information about the melanocyte, cells form a structure called the how melanin is formed and the different types notochord. As the notochord of melanin. Armed with this information, you develops, it marks the midline can judge what treatments and products can of the embryo, and just above and cannot do for your clients. This article is the notochord, the ectoderm not a how-to article, or a cookbook series of begins to lay down the recipes, but offers solid information about neuroectoderm, which will melanin and melanocytes that will provide a become the entire nervous good foundation – resulting in a better system. This structure will give understanding of human pigmentation. rise to the neural crest, from which will come all the SKIN COLOUR AND THE melanocytes, and that is why you need to know about MELANOCYTE embryonic development. This Three compounds – haemoglobin, carotene relationship is illustrated and and the brown pigment called melanin, which diagrammed in Figure 1; is the topic of this article, produce skin colour however, it is simplified to in humans. There is much new information in include only the essential the scientific literature about pigmentation structures you need to know. and melanin in particular, but some of it is controversial. A clear understanding of what melanin is, where it comes from and how it is regulated is essential, as this knowledge will help form the basis of a rational treatment program when faced with pigmentation problems.

㄰

MIGRATION OF THE MELANOCYTES Melanocytes originate in the neural crest, but they are also found in a few other places: the eyes, hair, ears and leptomeninges of the brain all

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

APJ 86

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

contain melanocytes. What is interesting about this is that they must have different functions other than environmental protection, as do epidermal melanocytes. This is a different topic and, although it is exciting, little is known about these functions.

The pigmented cells migrate as melanoblasts, which are the precursors of melanocytes. Eventually, the skin melanoblasts end up in the basal layer of the epidermis. Keep in mind that the migration of the melanoblasts occurs in the embryo, and that these cells must move from the neural crest to the dermis of the skin. Briefly, that pathway follows the lateral structures of the embryo, namely the space between the somites and the ectoderm to eventually reach the basal layer of the epidermis via the dermis. If you look at this pathway in Figure 2 you will see the structures clearly. It is important to understand this because the melanoblasts must pass through many types of tissues and proteins and need to be protected from attack by these structures. As a blast cell, it is not fully differentiated and thus does not have the antigenicity of fully developed cells. Although the immune system is poorly developed in a foetus, it is almost nonexistent in the embryo.

To review this pathway, all melanocytes originate in the neural crest, make their way to the epidermis through the embryonic tissues and land in the dermis. From here, they enter the epidermis and reside in the basal layer. Investigators say this migration is nearly complete by the seventh week of gestation and is fully completed by week 11, though some say sooner.1

MAKING MELANOSOMES

㄰

Now that melanoblasts are in the epidermis, they will fully differentiate and do their job. The major function of melanocytes is to make melanosomes and then transfer them to the keratinocytes so they will act as a shield against ultraviolet (UV) radiation. Just these two topics alone would fill hundreds of pages, but this article will cover only the essential steps for each process.

㤵 㜵

㈵

THE FOUR STAGES OF THE FORMATION OF MELANIN IN A MELANOSOME Stage I: The premelanosome. Melanosomes are specialised organelles within melanocytes and retinal pigment epithelial cells, in which melanin pigments are generated and stored. The melanosome starts out as a hollow vesicle from a lysosome. A special protein known as Pmel17 is an integral membrane protein uniquely expressed

by melanocytes and is found in the premelanosome matrix. This protein forms a fibre-like network on which the melanosome is constructed. These fibres serve to sequester and concentrate the newly formed melanin in a certain area of the melanocyte. No pigment is present at stage I; the melanosome is forming, but it is colourless.

㄰

Stage II: Laying down the matrix.

㤵 㜵

㈵

This stage is characterised by the elongation of the melanosomes and completion of the scaffold-like matrix of melanofilaments. No pigment appears at this stage, but the melanosomes are ready to receive the tyrosinase-related proteins that will initiate the production of melanin pigment. The first and second stages prepare the melanosome to become a pigmented particle by preparing the mechanical parts of the particle.

Now a fascinating process is going on during all of this. Up in the Golgi apparatus, tiny structures known as clathrins are busy gathering tyrosinase enzymes to shuttle through the cells to the stage II melanosomes. The transfer of manufactured lipids and proteins from the rough endoplasmic reticulum (ER) requires transport vesicles that pinch off from the rough ER and then fuse with the target membranes. These vesicles are about 3580 nanometres (nm) in size and are coated with a bristle-like lattice of the clathrin subunits. Clathrin, a fairly large protein, is actually one key element of the intracellular transport of proteins. The clathrin's coat forms a basket around the vesicle, and employs cytoskeletal elements with the actual structure of the clathrin specific to each type of cell. This process is outlined in Figure 3, showing stage II melansomes and the role of clathrins.

Stage III: Tyrosinase-related proteins. This is the beginning of melanin formation because the pigment is laid down on the scaffolding of the stage II melanosomes. From the onset, let me make clear that the last word has yet to be written on melanogenesis, or melanin formation, and what is presented here is simply the best of the current understanding of the process. The formation of melanin is a biochemical event driven by three enzymes and many ancillary stimulators, beginning in stage III melanosomes and continuing in stage IV melanosomes, which are filled with pigment. It all begins with the amino acid phenylalanine, which is converted to amino acid tyrosine by the enzyme phenylalanine hydroxylase. The next step is to convert the tyrosine to dihydroxyphenylalanine (L-DOPA), which requires the enzyme tyrosine hydroxylase. The third enzyme is

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

APJ 87

㄰

㄰

tyr osi

㤵

㤵

㜵

㜵

㈵

㈵

nase, and it converts L-DOPA to L-DOPA quinone. This is the key step in the synthesis of melanin. From the compound L-DOPA quinone, all the other steps are derived, but these are less clearly defined in melanogenesis. One of these final steps involves complexing the melanin with protein. The formative process is diagrammed in Figure 4 with some notes on the steps. It is not difficult to understand when you see that tyrosinase is the key enzyme, and that the final product, melanin, is a polymeric material complex with protein. In Figure 5, the active molecules have been identified to make this process clearer.

MAJOR TYPES OF MELANIN Figure 4 contains the words eumelanin and pheomelanin. These types of melanin have biologically different responses to UV light. The eumelanin is black/brown and the pheomelanin is red/yellow. Both of these pigments arise from the same enzymatic pathway; however, there is a switch that sends more pheomelanin into production. This process is controlled by a gene known as the melanocortin1 receptor (MC1R) gene that is located in the melanocytes of hair follicles. When this gene is functioning normally, only eumelanin is produced, but if it functions poorly, then pheomelanin is produced. Most humans with red hair carry a poorly functioning MC1R gene, and individuals who carry this gene, well-functioning or not, have red hair and freckles. ㄰ 㤵 㜵

Pheomelanin is not able to withstand UV radiation, tends to break down into photo-sensitising compounds and also generates free radicals. There is a certain amount of pheomelanin in most individuals, more in those with Fitzgerald Skin Type I and less in those with Type IV skin.2, 3 The relative amounts of eumelanin to pheomelanin may determine an individual's susceptibility to UV light and skin cancer.

㈵

Just a note on hair colour: Lack of pheomelanin means no red hair.

MC1R decides which pigment gets made, while other genes decide in

what amounts. A strawberry blonde hair colour inherits two badly functioning MC1R genes and, depending on how well they work, some individuals will have dark or light red hair. Blondes have only a little pheomelanin, but enough to produce a light hair colour without red tones.

So what controls melanin production? This question is one everyone wants to know the answer to if they are interested in skin-lightening agents and pigmentation disorders. Just like everything else about pigment formation, all the answers are not known yet, but a great deal of research is under way throughout the world.

THE CONTROL OF MELANOGENESIS Why does the skin around a pimple become a darker colour? Why is pregnancy associated with increased pigmentation? The key elements in the regulation of melanogenesis are believed to be represented by tyrosinase and tyrosine transporter protein (TyrP). This regulation is quite complex as evidenced by the large number of genes and associated binding sites of an additional large family of transcription factors. Much of this can be boiled down to one step at the intracellular level, because the major regulatory pathway involves a common mediator, cyclic adenosine monophosphate (cAMP), which is also known as a second messenger. In addition, both tyrosine and L-DOPA are themselves regulators of melanogenesis.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

APJ 88

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

Let's start with the melanocyte. It needs messengers to tell it to make melanin; so, what are these messengers? Well, there are a lot of them, but they can be divided into groups to make it easier to remember.

Microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF), proopiomelanocortin (POMC), which gives rise to melanocytestimulating hormone (MSH), adrenocorticotrophins (ACTH) and beta-endorphins, catecholamines, acetylcholine and estrogen, to name just a few.4, 5, 6, 7 To cover each one of these agents and how they work would require much more detailed biochemistry, but for the sake of this discussion, they can be lumped into a single pathway, the aforementioned cAMP. Figure 6 displays the various stimulators of melanogenesis reacting with their specific receptors and producing a biological cascade to eventually result in the formation of cAMP, which stimulates tyrosinase formation in the nucleus. UV light stimulates melanin production, as do other inflammatory biochemicals.

All of this requires very strict enzyme control; if any enzyme in the system is missing, melanin cannot be produced. Tyrosinase is the major enzyme required for the synthesis of melanin and most of the stimuli are directed to promoting the production of melanin. Tracing this key enzyme that produces melanin is essentially the story of melanocyte physiology.

Melanin is actually made in the melanosomes and must be transferred to the keratinocyte to produce skin colour. This process is the next topic.

transported to the tip of the dendrite. The actual motive force is supplied by two other proteins called dynein, which transports the melanosomes to the end of the dendrite, and kynein, a motor protein that transports the melanosomes to the centre of the cell. So in actuality, the melanosomes can move back and forth in the dendrite.

The situation changes when the melanosomes are at the tip of the dendrite and are ready for transfer to the keratinocyte. At this point, they are ready to be transferred to the keratinocyte, but new players enter the field.10, 11

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

Step 3: Melanosomes to the keratinocyte. At the dendrite tip, a protein known as actin makes up fibres that are needed to transport the melanosomes further into new structures called filopodia, tiny thread-like tubes that are produced at the ends of the dendrite.

Within these tiny structures, a protein known as RAB27A latches on to the melanosomes and then binds to a second protein called melanophilin. This whole complex then binds to Myosin Va, a transporter protein that then attaches the complex to actin in order to move it through the filopodia. You can see this structure in Figure 7. An awful lot of names to digest, I realise, but just understand that many steps are involved, and that if any one protein is not normal, p i g m e n t a t i o n abnormalities will occur.12,

13, 14

The transfer of melanosomes from melanocytes to keratinocytes is unique in human biology – no other combination of cells transfers an organelle. Three steps are required to make this transfer.

Step 1: The formation of the

㄰ 㤵 㜵

dendrite. Dendrites are finger-like projections of cells. The Langerhans cell and the melanocyte are the only two cells in the epidermis that have dendritic projections. Formation of the dendrite is quite an operation, involving many genes, two of which are the Rho and Rac genes, which are molecular switches. The dendrite is essentially an extension of the material in the cytoplasm of the melanocyte (or any other dendritic cell). The purpose in forming a dendrite, of course, and in the case of the melanocyte, is to transport melanosomes. Microtubules must be assembled and many proteins made to achieve this action, and this is the role of the proteins Rho and Rac. The dendrite having been formed, the melansomes can now be moved.8, 9

㈵

Step 2: Melanosomes to the dendrite. Think of this process as a track

on which a train runs. Cytoskeletal components known as microtubules form the surface on which the melanosomes are

The melanosomes are transferred to the keratinocyte through the filopodia; after this, what happens next is uncertain.

Some scientists believe the melanosomes are removed from the filopodia by a process called exocytosis; that is, the melanosomes are shed into the cytoplasm by being forced out of the filopodia. The keratinocyte gathers these melanosomes up by a process called endocytosis, surrounding them with a cell membrane and pulling them into the cytoplasm of the keratinocyte.

Another group of scientists believe that the filopodia actually enter the membrane and the keratinocyte, and deposits the melanosomes inside the keratinocyte. At present, no- one is sure who is right.15, 16 After the melanosomes enter the keratinocyte, they are transported to the centrosome of the nucleus, which points upward to protect the DNA in the nucleus from UV radiation. As the keratinocyte moves upward to the stratum corneum, the melanosomes will degrade in time and new cells will take the place of the exfoliated cells. This is the end of their journey. The complex process known as melanogenesis, which requires almost a hundred genes and many enzyme reactions,

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

APJ 89

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

draws to a close. All of the defects in pigment are related to a defect in one of the genes. When you look at skin, eye or hair color, consider all the biological processes that are involved in just that one aspect of human development. Scientists have been studying skin pigment for more than 100 years and still there are many unanswered questions.

PRACTICAL APPLICATION Every aesthetician knows that there are many types of pigment problems, and with the information in this article, the source of many of these problems will become apparent. For example, take the condition known as albinism, a lack of melanin production caused by a defective tyrosinase enzyme. There are many types of albinism and not all of them have been fully identified as to biological mechanisms.

When the aesthetician sees a pigmentation problem, questions to be answered are: ! Is this a primary melanocyte problem? ! Is this a melanin production problem? ! Is this a melanosome transfer problem? ! Is it of a genetic origin, or ! Is it of an environmental origin?

Knowing the answer to these questions will help the aesthetician address the problem.

The major target in reducing pigmentation is the enzyme tyrosinase, since it is the key enzyme in the production of melanin. Many agents are available to block the actin tyrosinase, as well as various other sites in the melanogenesis pathway.

A second approach is to block the stimulators of tyrosine. MSH is one key stimulator that can be inhibited with a phoney peptide designed to tie up the MSH receptor on the cell.

A third way is to inhibit the transfer of melanosomes to the keratinocyte, and one agent known to do just that is niacinamide.

A fourth way is to exfoliate the stratum corneum cells to remove those that contain melanin. Above all, using sunscreen and staying out of high UV exposure areas, such as beaches and snowy areas, are the most effective means of limiting melanin formation.

By knowing the various steps that are necessary to form melanin, you can plan a skin-lightener program by choosing a combination of agents that inhibit melanin at several production points.

TERMINOLOGY

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

a. Differentiation is a biological process in which a cell becomes more specialised and more defined. b. Leptomeninges are two thin membranes that cover the brain. The term is used to refer to the pia mater and arachnoid mater, the former is on the brain surface and the latter is just above it. c. Blast cells are stem cells – early cells with division and differentiation potential. d. Antigenicity is the ability to elicit an immune response; that is, a reaction to a non-self protein.

This is a very complex topic and relates to how the embryo and foetus must protect itself from the mother's immune system. It relates to a lot of the cancer research in stem cells and immunogenicity. e. Melanocytes that are not in the skin do not transfer their melanosomes to other cells. f. Lysosomes are hollow blister-like structures that serve as cellular disposal systems by breaking down waste products, including discarded protein. Lack of this enzyme causes a disease known as

phenylketonuria (PKU) that is associated with mental disability. The incurable condition is inherited, but fully treatable with a diet low in the amino acid phenylalanine and high in tyrosine. It is easily detected in infants by a urine test. The children afflicted with PKU have blond hair and blue eyes. g. MC1R gene converts pheomelanin to eumelanins. h. Transcription factors are peptides or proteins that enter the nucleus and activate genes. i. The Rho family of GTPases is a family of small (~21 kDa) signalling proteins and is a subfamily of the Ras superfamily. The Rho group regulates many aspects of intracellular action dynamics. Rho proteins have been described as molecular switches that play a role in cell proliferation, apoptosis, cell division, gene expression and many other common cellular functions. j. Microtubules are one of the components of the cytoskeleton.

They serve as structural components within cells and function in cellular processes including mitosis, cytokinesis and transport.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

REFERENCES 1. AA Zimmerman and SW Becker, Melanocytes and melanoblasts in fetal negro skin, In Illinois Monographs in Medical Science, University of Illinois Medical Press: Urbana, IL (1959) pp 155 2. E Wenczl, GP Van der Schans, L Roza, RM Kolb, AJ Timmerman, NP Smit, S Pavel and AA Schothorst, (Pheo)melanin photosensitizes UVA-induced DNA damage in cultured human melanocytes, J Invest Dermatol 111 678682 (1998) 3. S Takeuchi, W Zhang, K Wakamatsu, S Ito, VJ Hearing, KH Kraemer and DE Brash, Melanin acts as a potent UVB photosensitizer to cause an atypical mode of cell death in marine skin, Proc Natl Acad Sci USA 101 1507615081 (2004) 4. SA Grando, MR Pittelkow, KU Schallreuter, Adrenergic and cholinergic control in the biology of epidermis: physiological and clinical significance, J Invest Dermatol 126(9) 19481965 (2006) 5. JD Spencer, H202-mediated oxidation affects POMC processing and POMC derived peptides in the human epidermal using vitiligo as a model for oxidative stress, University of Bradford, West Yorkshire, United Kingdom (2007) 6. JM Gillbro, LK Marles, NA Hibberts, et al. Autocrine catecholamine biosynthesis and the beta adrenoceptor signal promote pigmentation in human epidermalmelanocytes, J Invest Dermatol 123(2) 346353 (2004) 7. MJ Thornton, LD Nelson, AH Taylor, et al. The modulation of aromatase and estrogen receptor alpha in cultured human dermal papilla cells by dexamethasone: a novel mechanism for selective action of estrogen via estrogen receptor beta, J Invest Dermatol 126(9) 20102018 (2006) 8. R Busca, C Bertolotto, P Abbe, W Englaro, T Ishizaki, S Narumiya, P Boquet, JP Ortonne and R Ballotti, Inhibition of Rho is required for cAMPinduced melanoma cell differentiation, Mol Biol Cell 9 13671378 (1998) 9. G Scott and S Leopardi, The cAMP signaling pathway has opposing effects on Rac and Rho in B16F10 cells: implications for dendrite formation in melanocytic cells, Pigment Cell Res 16 139148 (2003) 10. HR Byers, M Yaa, MS Eller, NL Jalbert and BA Gilchrest, Role of cytoplasmic dynein in melanosome transport in human melanocytes, J Invest Dermatol 114 990997 (2000) 11. M Hara, M Yaar, HR Byers, D Goukassian, RE Fine, J Gonsalves and BA Gilchrest, Kinesin participates in melanosomal movement along melanocytedendrites, J Invest Dermatol 114 438443 (2000) 12. SM Wilson, R Yip, DA Swing, TN O'Sullivan, Y Zhang, EK Novak, RT Swank, LB Russell, NG Copeland and NA Jenkins, A mutation in Rab27a causes the vesicle transport defects observed in ashen mice, Proc Natl Acad Sci USA 97 79337938 (2000) 13. DC Barral, JS Ramalho, R Anders, AN Hume, HJ Knapton, T Tolmachova, LM Collinson, D Goulding, KS Authi and MC Seabra, Functional redundancy of Rab27 proteins and the pathogenesis of Griscelli syndrome, J Clin Invest 110 247257 (2002) 14. M Fukuda, TS Kuroda and K Mikoshiba, Slac2-a/melanophilin, the missing link between Rab27 and myosin Va: implications of a tripartite protein complex for melanosome transport, J Biol Chem 277 1243212436 (2002) 15. G Scott, S Leopardi, S Printup and BC Madden, Filopodia are conduits for melanosome transfer to keratinocytes, J Cell Sci 115 14411151 (2002) 16. G Scott and Q Zhao, Rab3a and SNARE proteins: potential regulators of melanosome movement, J Invest Dermatol 116 296304 (2001)

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

APJ 90

96 19

D HE IS BL TA ES

COSMOPROF ASIA 2011: NOVEMBER, 9TH - 11TH HONG KONG CONVENTION & EXHIBITION CENTRE

| BOLOGNA | HONG KONG | LAS VEGAS | ISTANBUL |

COSMOPROF-ASIA.COM

Organiser - Cosmoprof Asia Ltd Australian Pavilion Enquiries: Austrade - melbourne - australia - ph. +61.3.9648.3179 - fax +61.3.9648.3100 - leonie.smith@austrade.gov.au Marketing and Promotion: SoGeCos s.p.a. - milan - italy - ph. +39.02.796.420 - fax +39.02.795.036 - sogecos@cosmoprof.com Sales Office Asia Pacific: UBM Asia Ltd - hong kong - ph. +852.2827.6211 - fax +852.3749.7345 - cosmasia-hk@ubm.com Sales Office Europe, The Americas, Africa and Middle East: Fairsystem International Exhibition Services s.p.a. - bologna - italy ph. + 39.051.282.848 - fax +39.051.282.895-896 - fairsystem@fairsystem.it Supported by:

CA11_APJ_AU_210x297.indd 1

21/02/2011 5:13 PM

industryreport ㄰

㄰

㤵

㤵

㜵

㜵

㈵

㈵

INDUSTRY REPORT What Lies Ahead

by Tina Viney In November last year I had the opportunity to visit Hong Kong where I attended Cosmoprof Asia and I wanted to share some of my observations with you. While my visit was some time ago, this is the first issue of APJ for 2011in which I was able to make it to the press on time for this article to be included.

For those who have never attended Cosmoprof it is indeed a wonderful experience. For me the greatest value was the extensive cross-cultural perspective that I gained on what is happening globally to the beauty/aesthetic world, and this was quite an eye-opener.

The enormity of this event was initially overwhelming as over 1,412 exhibitors from 39 countries participated at the expo, with the number of delegates surpassing 45,000, coming from all corners of the earth – in fact, reports indicated that guests came from 100 countries, making this event truly international. So why do so many people congregate at such an event and what do they hope to gain? This may appear to be a complex question, but the answer is quite simple. Most are looking to increase their knowledge of the industry and to identify business opportunities.

therefore be correct to say that education ultimately prepares and equips us to face the future and empowers us to identify better business or employment opportunities.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

㄰

THE GLOBAL PERSPECTIVE While training is relatively narrow, focusing predominantly on skillsdevelopment, education looks at the broader perspective, evaluates cross-references and diverse viewpoints on a particular subject. In fact, the real purpose of education is to expand one's thinking, understanding and knowledge on certain topics by identifying facts that provide credible information. It also trains you to critically review information to determine their source and accuracy. It would

But I believe there is another element that we perhaps should incorporate. As global values shift with considerations such as sustainable environmental concerns, I believe that education should now have as its ultimate objective to help us create a safer and a better world. With this in mind information must be carefully scrutinised and credibly sourced if it is going to help us achieve these objectives. So how can education add value to what we do and how does it translate into practical application? For the sake of exploring answers to these questions let's look at how Cosmoprof can challenge our thinking.

㤵 㜵

㈵

APJ 92

㄰ 㤵 㜵

From my observations at Cosmoprof there appears to be several growth areas. These included: ! Advanced equipment ! Skincare with the introduction of stem cell technology ! Health and wellness products ! Grooming items with greater sophistication

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

㈵

ALL THAT GLITTERS ISN'T GOLD

By far the most conspicuous was the plethora of high-tech equipment.

FOR THE BODY – There was an incredible array of sophisticated advanced equipment utilising ultrasonic cavitation technologies for slimming and cellulite. These took centre stage promising body architecture (muscle toning) and circumferential reduction.

Numerous companies were introducing these technologies as research continues to point to their credibility and ultimately reliable results. Of course lasers and light-based devices were also a great attraction.

Terry Everitt holding a transdermal delivery gun.

FOR THE FACE – Multiple platforms that combined various technologies facilitating better product penetration, skin tightening, cell renewal and collagen stimulation as well as detoxification and lymphatic drainage were displayed and promoted.

There were several hair-growth products, with some introducing them to the scalp via mesotherapy (or subcutaneous injections).

Skincare featured a huge focus on stem cell technology that promised “increase in telomere length, supporting DNA integrity, prolong cell life-span, revitalise ageing cells and facial contour results”. Was there any evidence that they could target cells in such a way? You would need to ask the right questions and request to view evidence-based research documentation. Of course the all-popular facial whitening treatments were numerous. While skin needling was very much the go, special “guns” were introduced that delivered precise serum quantity into the skin pretty much as an injectable.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

Observing the interaction that took place between delegates and some suppliers presented me with certain concerns.

While Cosmoprof set clear “Infringement Goods” and “Prohibited Goods” guidelines, it cannot guarantee the quality and integrity of the products and devices presented. This is very much up to the delegate to ascertain through the appropriate questioning.

Amid the gloss and glamour it would be almost impossible to differentiate the scientifically validated technologies from the inferior copies, and it was disappointing to observe some incredible claims being made that bordered on the ridiculous, while

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

APJ 93

With the enormous technological boom that is targeting our industry, higher learning and objective education has never become more necessary in helping the industry successfully navigate through the various choices now available to them and correctly determine the soundness and credibility of what is promoted to them.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

THE ISSUE OF BENCHMARKING

CLAIMS While some suppliers are better than others in presenting technical information in a credible manner, their information will be no doubt restricted to the products and equipment that they carry. They will also primarily focus on promoting their training and techniques to deliver the best possible results. Even though this may be of value, the individual professionals need to also engage in gaining knowledge that will allow them to objectively benchmark what is presented to them to determine its accuracy. This can only be achieved through advanced education – whether this is through formal qualifications or through independent association or standards body sponsored educational programs.

Tina and skincare manufacturing equipment. wide-eyed and naïve delegates nodded their heads in awe and amazement.

Another concern was with new injectable procedures. While these are considered to be strictly medical procedures, I was amazed to see them promoted to beauty therapists. Again, it is not up to the supplier to determine whether you are qualified to perform these treatments. This is your responsibility. ㄰ 㤵

However, some suppliers did indicate if their products were developed strictly for medical practitioners, while others targeted anyone and everyone to purchase from them.

㜵

㈵

What is becoming quite evident, particularly with equipment, is how aesthetic and medical aesthetic procedures are now very much aligned with often similar outcome objectives, with the medical being slightly more advanced. This is where we need to know the law and be mindful to comply with Australian regulatory TGA requirements and in line with industry Codes of Ethics.

I am currently on a Curriculum Advisory Committee for the development of a new Bachelor Degree qualification, as I strongly believe that higher learning has now become a matter of necessity and that such pathways are critical to the support of the industry's credibility. With the modern academic tools it is now possible to do much of your learning through on-line distance education, while still maintaining your work commitments. More advanced units in Anatomy and Physiology, Health Sciences, Research methodologies and Advanced Technologies are just some of the units you can expect to see made available through degree qualifications.

Higher education will earn you respect, not only of your peers, but more importantly of your clients. Our organisation – the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network (APAN) – has a strong commitment to fostering platforms of higher learning. In August 2010 through a relationship with the Australasian Academy of Anti-Ageing Medicine (A5M) we contributed to an Aesthetics Workshop in conjunction with their medical conference in Melbourne. Plans are already under way to step-up the education to an even higher level in 2011.

At this event it was wonderful to view forward-minded therapists interacting with internationally renowned medical experts exchanging thoughtful insights. It was most encouraging to see several engaging in multi-dimensional conversations and to see therapists express their own thoughts with confidence. Together medical and aesthetic professionals exploring ways that common knowledge can benefit both parties provide a higher level of service and more advanced treatment outcomes to their clients or patients, while working together through collaboration and mutual respect and

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

APJ 94

㄰

to not only be well informed, but to be the very best they can be in their profession. The pendulum is swinging in our favour as we invest in higher learning, gaining us more and more the professional recognition and respect which is on the rise as we achieve mutual understanding and improved communication.

㤵 㜵

CHAMPIONING THE CAUSE OF PROGRESS

㈵

㤵 㜵

㈵

“That which you do not use you will lose,” is a very relevant saying.

A more important objective of higher learning has also much to do with the fact that unless we gain the necessary knowledge to embrace advanced technologies we will ultimately lose the right to use them. As with many other countries, government legislation prohibits the use of certain technologies such as laser and fraxel lasers, and in some countries, even, IPL. All this has to do with the lack of appropriate educational pathways that adequately qualify the practitioners as well as a lack of industry lobbying.

㄰

Additionally, APAN is committed to conducting its own educational events that will strongly focus on presenting the challenges of tomorrow and identifying areas of knowledge that the industry should be embracing and the educational tools that will allow them to move forward with confidence.

We will champion and support your professional development and rigorously lobby government regulatory bodies to ensure that the aesthetic industry continues to grow its market share, by proving to them that we are not complacent about qualifications and standards of practice. Our aim as an industry standards body is to not only ensure that the industry holds its ground on what it practises, but ultimately also gain new territories, however, that is another story, a whole new chapter on its own.

As an organisation APAN has much on the drawing board for 2011.

We are highly motivated and committed to continue to increase our member benefits, adding value to their investment with us, as well as pursuing formal dialogue with regulatory and educational bodies for the benefit of our industry.

While working closely with your suppliers is to be encouraged, I also encourage you not to lose sight of the value and benefit of your membership investment with APAN, or with whichever body you believe serves your interests the best. Your membership to such a body should be viewed as a complementory and support structure to objective professional development.

At a small annual fee of just $298 or $385 (depending as to whether you join as a Gold or Platinum Corporate Member), when you join APAN as a member you are investing in: ! Your credibility and recognition ! Leading industry support and advice ! Great member benefits ! Education and activities to help you stay on top of your profession ! Through the numerous resources you will gain knowledge and confidence ! APAN is also committed to rewards for its members

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㤵 㜵

appreciation of each other's expertise and knowledge. That is the way it should be. ㈵

㄰

I was also thrilled to see aesthetic therapists gaining the respect they deserve as true professionals who equally invest in their knowledge,

Furthermore, you are empowering an industry voice to represent your needs with government bodies, medical societies and beyond.

The only thing that will stop us achieving this is a complacent industry that choses not to engage and support us in representing them and winning their battles for them.

㈵

APJ 95

cosmetictattoo ㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

Common Mistakes and Corrective Procedures in Cosmetic Tattoo

by Val Glover-Hovan

How to achieve maximum client satisfaction and avoid mishaps and their challenges While Cosmetic Tattoo can be quite a lucrative procedure there are many pitfalls. We often hear of horrendous stories of clients wanting to sue their cosmetic tattooist for a procedure that has “gone wrong”, even if this is not the case and it is only the client's perception, or they have had unrealistic expectations of the changes they anticipated.

These mishaps can be very painful to their emotional state, not to mention the reputation of the practitioner and even their financial loss.

We have witnessed some very aggressive individuals that will do anything to pull down a practitioner through slander and deliberate malicious pursuits to discredit their practitioner to numerous professional bodies and government regulatory bodies. Even if you have not done something wrong, you may still undergo the humiliation of having to prove yourself in a court of law or to authorities your innocence.

Furthermore, how many clients have you had that have come to you for a “corrective procedure” because they refuse to go back to their cosmetic tattooist who performed it, because they no longer “trust” her?

Wisdom requires prudent measures that can help protect you of such incidents. With over 25 years’ experience in the Cosmetic Tattoo industry there is not a better person to offer you advice in these matters than Val Glover-Hovan. ㄰ 㤵

Here are three questions and responses from Val on issues where procedures can go wrong.

㜵

㈵

APJ1: In your practice, Val, what is the most common corrective procedure you come across and what do you think is the cause of it?

VAL: I would have to say that the most common corrective

procedures I am presented with are crooked lines and misplaced colour. In terms of crooked lines it would have to be eyeliners and lips, while in terms of colour correction, eyebrows and lips.

㄰

There are many cosmetic tattoo practitioners who have had minimal hours of training and practical handson experience. This includes the terrible “on-line training”, which should be prohibited, as such training puts the public at great risk and results in many of the corrective problems that we have to face.

㤵 㜵

㈵

It is disappointing that many who are looking to train in cosmetic tattoo are attracted to quick short, courses, while they see the cost of treatment as a means of making a lucrative income. They neglect, however, to consider the huge responsibility one takes on when performing such procedures on someone's face.

Often it can be a beauty therapist, who decides to add cosmetic tattooing to her services, because she believes she has a demand for this service. However, once trained she may perform one treatment every three to four weeks. Unfortunately, this is not enough to continue to develop her skills and as a result mistakes happen because of a lack of confidence. When mistakes do happen often the client will demand a refund, or having lost trust in their cosmetic tattooist, will seek to go elsewhere to get the procedure corrected.

A successful cosmetic tattoo procedure requires that the skin in which the colour will be pigmented is stretched correctly to stabilise it. Then the needle placement for depositing the colour must also be executed correctly. This is the most vital aspect of the procedure. Perfecting your skills in cosmetic tattooing is an on-going process that requires that the practitioner continues to learn and keeps up-to-date through continued education.

When confronted with a procedure gone wrong you need to evaluate the situation and truthfully consider if any “corrective work” you will do will adequately improve the result, or would it better to recommend a “removal treatment”. If that is the case the best option is laser tattoo removal. One has to decide if you can make a 95% improvement that the client will view as satisfactory; otherwise, you may be jeopardising your reputation and your business. My recommendation is if any cosmetic tattooist is considering taking on a corrective procedure, they need to assess the job thoroughly before committing to taking it on.

With eyebrows, colour correction is easy if you have had correct training. I often find that many clients have not been told that their cosmetic tattoo will fade over time, and if not kept refreshed every couple of years it may fade,leaving a residue in the skin. This can be grey, orange, and red or purple, all of which can be colour corrected by an experienced cosmetic tattoo professional.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

APJ 96

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

APJ2: How important is colour selection to the success of a procedure and how difficult is it to understand colour when it comes to cosmetic tattoo procedures?

Val: Correct colour selection is one of the most difficult areas of a successful cosmetic tattoo procedure and it is also the most difficult to understand and perfect. For example you can't say “use dark brown on every brunette”. We work on different skin types with different undertones. Pigments also have different undertones. It is important to understand the traditional colour theory through a colour wheel that will help you identify warm and cool undertones. We also need to understand that the colours we tattoo into the skin are not decorative colours as used in body painting. Skin possesses colour and the colour you introduce into the skin will be reflected on the basis of how the skin receives the new colour and how it integrates into the skin colour.

Cosmetic tattoo colours are made specifically for cosmetic tattoo procedures to match just about every hair, pencil and lipstick colour from the lightest warm to the coolest blonde or grey hair colour to the darkest lip colours. There are many cosmetic tattooists who mix the colours themselves. It is my opinion that all professionals should have a minimum of 15 brow colours and 15 lip colours giving them a great range for matching colours to the client’s hair and skin colouring.

This is why good knowledge of colour theory is so important and necessary. We can never give a client the exact colour of their lipstick or brow pencil colour. Most of the times we can get close, but an exact match is unrealistic. The more treatments and variety of colour mixes a cosmetic tattoo practitioner uses the more understanding she will have of her pigments and realise she will be never know it all. That is why through regularly updating her knowledge through workshops or training will allow her to continue to improve her skills.

APJ3: What is “buyer's remorse” and how can a cosmetic tattoo practitioner guard against it?

Val: Thank goodness that in the past 25 years of doing cosmetic tattoo procedures there have been very few of my clients who have regretted having a procedure. Most of the time “buyer's remorse” is not as a result of the client not liking the procedure, but is a result of a criticism from a boyfriend, husband or friend that has made the client feel bad and that she made the wrong decision in having the procedure.

The stories I have heard of clients trying to “scrub off” their cosmetic tattoo are horrific.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

To avoid such incidents it is important that with ALL your clients you conduct a professional consultation. This should include an overview of the client's health profile and other information that will assist in determining if the person is a good candidate for a cosmetic tattoo procedure. There are many emotional issues that can indicate that that client would not be a good candidate. Considerations such as whether the client can handle the change. They must be prepared to accept the fact that when they leave the salon or clinic after the initial procedure, it will look darker and bolder than it will appear in a week or so after healing. There may be slight swelling. The procedure area will fade and the colour will appear softer with time as approximately 15-20 per cent of the pigment will be trapped in the epidermal layers of the skin and will eventually exfoliate with dead skin cells. There is also a healing process that each good candidate must accept and agree to follow through with the recommended aftercare instructions.

㄰

Before

㤵 㜵

㈵

After

EYEBROWS: I reshaped and corrected the client's eyebrows, giving her an instant eyelift without surgery, and as you can see it has taken years Before off her.

LIPS: Client had Full Lip Colour done elsewhere, which was attempted a couple of times, but the client After was very distressed and not happy with the outcome. Colour was very uneven and not the right colour for the client. They tattooed outside the client's natural lip line creating an uneven result. I corrected the shape and used a colour that better suited the client. The client was extremely happy with the result of the new colour and shape.

Another consideration is the pain threshold of the individual, as often candidates expect the procedure to be pain-free. Individuals with compulsive disorders are poor candidates; they must be viewed as a big red flag. Many people with this disorder are often not happy with themselves on a variety of levels, including how they look, and they will never be satisfied with anything you perform as this is part of the manifestation of their disorder - they never believe they look good.

Then there is the person who needs the reassurance of another person for the final approval of shape or colour and wants them to be there while having the treatment, holding their hand and approving of the work. You need to be careful with them.

Be also careful with the person who is controlling and demanding, bossy or with a sarcastic attitude, which consumes so much of the appointment time telling you what to do and leaving you with little time to do the procedure. Other candidates you should be cautious with are those who have recently gone through a divorce or relationship break-up, as this person may not be able to make good sound decisions. A good thorough consultation and a well-planned Informed Consent Form will expose any concerns and determine if the candidate will be appropriate for a cosmetic tattoo procedure. Client management is an area that requires constant perfecting, as dealing with human nature can sometimes be challenging.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

Val Glover-Hovan is a multi-award winner and is renowned internationally for her techniques and teaching methods in cosmetic tattoo. Val can be contacted for training advice or supplies on 1300 88 66 55 or sales@hovansgroup.com.au or visit www.hovansgroup.com.au

㈵

APJ 97

weightloss ㄰

often assumed that as we age our metabolism slows down and we become more sedentary, or the other way around.

And if you are an unlucky big-boned young person, well you just have to learn to accept your genetics. Popular proliferation of gyms, personal trainers and TV programs like The Biggest Loser provide remarkable inspiration for all ages and sexes, but they portray extreme weight-loss as a huge physical struggle.

Even generic retail programs like Weight Watchers require willpower, physical effort and food restraint/selection alternatives. Many potential fat-loss clients cannot relate to these types of regimes and their self-image continues to suffer.

㤵 㜵

㈵

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

NEW-LOOK 40 AS A POSSIBILITY FOR YOUR CLIENTS For your older client, however, there is good news. The age of ‘60 as the new look 40’ has arrived, and apparently the new look 40 is wiser, more determined and a better look and feel than being an uninformed, chronological 40.

Putting the love back into LOVE HANDLES The truth about resistant, unwanted fat

by Bonnie Sleep B.Ed, M.Ed. Can you burn unwanted, resistant fat fast, effectively and healthily?

It's a huge question that you may want answered for yourself and your clients. As aestheticians we need to know what works and why, so we need the science and the realistic expectations in order to maintain a high level of credibility with our clients.

Menopause and Andropause are more than just a fat nuisance. Many of us who are 50 plus spent a lifetime slim, but blew out when the inevitable effects of menopause and andropause took control. This applies to both sexes, and in the case of males, the fat gains can be concentrated on the torso and contribute to raising levels of cardiovascular and other significant health risk factors. ㄰ 㤵 㜵

So visibly undesirable resistant fat layers are more than just a nuisance. It is claimed they also compromise fitness, wellbeing and longevity. And this also applies to the young who pile on excessive fat reserves before hormonal mid-life changes.

SELF-IMAGE ㈵

Health and wellness may be impacted by unwanted fat reserves, but in many cases, so is self-image. There is a general acceptance that fattening happens as part of ageing in a food-abundant society. It is

Many of us, as well as our clients will still procrastinate, continue to guilt diet, binge eat and then curse ourselves.

However, you will have clients that have the will-power and want successful body changing information and you are one of their key information-filters.

NEW FAT-LOSS CLAIMS EVERY WEEK

Almost every week a new weight-loss strategy makes media headlines. An interesting UK originated oral spray, SensaSlim, is now being marketed as a remarkable appetite suppressant that has averaged a loss of between 1-2 kilos per week for a youngish Australian control group.

This may be a good solution, as eating less will definitely reduce the intake of storable fat, which is easy logic. However, the real question is whether eating less will result in burning the resistant fat or just the accessible fat reserves.

ACCESSIBLE OR RESISTANT FAT – THERE'S A BIG DIFFERENCE The difference for women can be a visible loss of facial and breast fat reserves, leading to a more haggard look and less robust bust.

However, if resistant fat is burnt (as some more scientific approaches claim) then the facial look is not haggard and the bust is still perky.

And you have to love that! When resistant fat is lost the layers are claimed to be melted from around the stomach, the butt, the waist, the thighs and the arms and shoulders. So a recontouring takes place, which is a very different process and one that most of your clients will want to know about.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

APJ 98

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

SCULPTED IS POSSIBLE FOR ANY AGE In previous issues of APJ I’ve give you some background on one simple fat-burning system more than 50 years old that has a proven record in many countries and we'll find out just why it works.

Interestingly, this program requires no additional exercise and uses a naturally occurring hormone to work with the fat-burning mechanisms evolved by your endocrine system. These processes sculpt your body with no excessive stress, major feats of restraint or disruption to your daily life. We have carried out our own trials and have a unique blog of a 55-year-old female’s fat-burning journey that will be exclusively published for readers in the June edition of APJ.

Simeons also worked out an endocrine-friendly way of going through the process two or three times, thereby enabling massive fat loss and recontouring over a relatively short period of time for those with obesity.

The key to the success of the program was that the hCG not only signals the hypothalamus to allow resistant fat to be burnt, but it also naturally suppresses appetite, so there is no hunger anxiety for the fatburning candidates.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

Dr Simeons had a limited number of manuscripts typed and hand chose a number of doctors in Europe and the US to receive his complete set of protocols so that a legacy would be established and the work would continue after his death.

DR A.T.W. SIMEONS The first medical mind to investigate the connection between the hormone hCG (hCG stands for Human Chorionic Gonadotropin) and weight loss was Dr A.T.W. Simeons. A distinguished British endocrinologist, Simeons studied in Germany, Switzerland and Africa, before spending 18 years in India where he discovered the use of injectable Atebrin for malaria for which he was awarded a Red Cross Order of Merit.

He also pioneered an innovative method of staining malaria parasites, now known as Simeons’ stain, and was responsible for major breakthroughs in the treating of malaria throughout India and Asia.

During World War II Dr Simeons held several important posts with the Government of India and conducted extensive research on bubonic plague and leprosy control, and a model leper colony, which he built, has now become a famous all-Indian centre. It was in India that Dr Simeons first clinically observed the connection between obesity and hCG when he worked with a cluster of sexually underdeveloped and obese boys who quickly fat contoured when dosed with hCG and low fat/carbohydrate diets.

In 1949 Simeons moved to Rome, where he worked on psychosomatic disorders at the Salvator Mundi International Hospital, and ran his own hCG clinic associated with the hospital. His low-key medical clinic grew in notoriety and soon catered to the rich and famous of Europe and particularly Hollywood. The regime he offered was strict, but the gains were fast and the recontouring very appealing.

HOW IT WORKS This program is based on safe levels of a naturally occurring hormone, hCG or human Chorionic Gonadotropin. Dr Simeons set up a strict protocol of detoxification, a carefully monitored diet of around 500 calories daily plus daily hormone injections. The candidates were told not to increase their exercise as their body was going to struggle with the restricted calorie intake and would be burning the key unwanted fat reserves well without additional physical stress. High levels of water were also essential catalysts for lipolysis or the breakdown of lipids, which enabled rapid fat burning.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

As an endocrinologist Simeons knew the triggers and interplay of the biochemical processes in the body. He was keen to demonstrate that using hCG was both safe and superior to all other systems of the day as it worked with the body's pathways as governed by the endocrine master gland, the hypothalamus.

Simeons created a program that enabled usually around a 10-12-kilo loss over a six week period, and a slow reintroduction to normal calorific intake allowed the gains to be consolidated.

NEW HOMOEOPATHIC VERSION OF THE HCG PROTOCOLS Today there are many hCG weight-loss clinics in the US and Europe.

The protocols and especially the diet have been modified in many cases. However, the main difference with the protocols as tested by our candidates to those of Dr Simeons is that the hCH is delivered by homoeopathic drops. In this new streamlined program there is also a strong emphasis on thorough detoxification, as the only dropouts for Simeons and other reported clinics appeared to be those that suffered headaches and nausea due to toxic elimination overload. So this new program wanted to create the most positive circumstances for success and will not rush into the program without proper preparation.

PREPARATION AND SUPPORT This program also places great importance on medical and naturopathic support as well as introduces a number of enhancing drops and salts so that the hypothalamus is supported and the body's overall alkalinity is maintained. In short, there has been a huge amount of work put into these wellness-related improvements to this new program, and you'd have to think that Dr Simeons would be very pleased.

MANY WAYS TO ACCESS HCG A range of hCG programs are offered online and you can also buy the raw hormone, but you have no guarantees about the substance and quality of what you are buying. There are claims that it is often of equine source, so be very careful. In Australia there are some established HCG programs and a new approach was presented at the November 2010 A5M conference in Melbourne, which included an option for self-injecting.

In the June edition of the APJ we have chosen to bring you the results of our trials using the homoeopathic version of the hCG, and also the program that offers a high level of support and excellent preparation, all of which we consider preferable and essential.

REFERENCES:

㄰

British medical journal Lancet (vol. 2, pp. 946-947, 1954). http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Human_chorionic_gonadotropin http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mwZKiBcWsPQ http://ezinearticles.com/?Real-Medical-Research-on-the-HCGWeight-Loss-Diet&id=2699221

㤵 㜵

㈵

APJ 99

treatments ㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

Despite the fact that most homes have a bath, showers are by far the most commonly used for their speed and convenience. But we all know that there is nothing more relaxing and mesmerising than a deep soak in a tub, and even more so in a spa bath where jets swirl warm water at often high speeds around our weary body. However, there is more to hydrotherapy than the "feel good" experience.

㄰

Water therapies have a solid foundation in their therapeutic properties and for this reason we are continuing to see an increase in their use in many different innovative ways within the aesthetic clinic, and not just at spas. I have a theory as to why people will continue to access them as a treatment option in salons rather than in their home – it has to do with the level of relaxation that one can experience if someone else is taking care of them. I don't know about you, but I would rather someone else take care of the water temperature, the air temperature, the right music, the right lighting and the right aromas before I am immersed into the treatment that will blissfully transport me to another place. Most importantly, I would much rather walk out of the treatment room or bath tub knowing that someone else will be taking care of all the cleaning up. That's relaxation. That's therapy.

㤵 㜵

㈵

BENEFITS AND TREATMENT OPTIONS So let's look back to the origins of hydrotherapy, its benefits and identify various ways that water therapies can be incorporated even within a salon or clinic without a wet room.

Body Wraps and Masks for Wellness and Skin Renewal

by Tina Viney

Hydro and hydrothermal therapies are traditional therapeutic methods that have been used for the treatment of disease and injury by many cultures, including those of ancient Greece, Rome, China and Japan. These cultures identified the healing virtues of water, especially when sourced from mineral-rich springs that expelled thermal waters straight from the earth's centre. These springs often produced running waters that pounded the body, improving circulation and assisting with the elimination of toxins to all who subjected themselves to them.

In modern times it was the Bavarian monk Father Sebastian Kneipp (1821-1897) who coined the term spa and helped re-popularise the therapeutic use of water in the 19th century. Sebastian Kneipp was named "Helper of mankind" in his lifetime and was more specifically known as the "water doctor". This came about when in his early years he become ill with life-threatening tuberculosis and was given no hope.

However, Kneipp refused to accept this fate, and went on the search for potential self-help measures.

He tried various methods of treatment and after prolonged therapy using water he was completely healed.

Why are body treatments on the increase? Is it because they feel good or is there more to them?

There is growing evidence that hydrotherapy and water-based treatments can offer us not only a relaxing and pleasurable experience, but also contribute to substantial health benefits. ㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

It was only just 10 years ago that the concept of the Day Spa started to make its mark in the Australian professional landscape as a more clearly defined business model that incorporated hydrotherapy and wellness treatments as its dominant feature.

Today, the fastest-growing sector in the aesthetic industry is antiageing with the integration of wellness therapies. Traditional aesthetic therapies are now incorporating wellness, detox and slimming services as part of their transition to a more holistic approach to the concept of "looking and feeling good".

Since then Kneipp devoted himself to the systematic study of hydrotherapy. Today, Kneipp methods of therapies using water are widely used both in the aesthetic/spa industry and through the application of natural therapies to treat diseases. These methods stimulate the body's immune system, stabilise and strengthen the body and even bring relief to early infection.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

APJ 100

㄰ 㤵 㜵

Moreover, according to Kneipp, water applications have proven especially beneficial for conditions such as diseases and disorders of the upper respiratory tract, asthma, angina, irritable bladder, low blood pressure, blood flow, venous disease, muscle tension, back pain and even chronic illness.

of gravity. Water also has a hydrostatic effect. It has a massage-like feeling as the water gently kneads your body. Water, in motion, stimulates touch receptors on the skin, boosting blood circulation and releasing tight muscles.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

Indications ㈵

There are now many dozens of methods of applying hydrotherapy, including baths, saunas, douches, wraps and packs. We cannot cover every method in this article, however, we will review wraps and body masks further in this article.

HOW DOES HYDROTHERAPY WORK? The recuperative and healing properties of hydrotherapy are based on its mechanical and/or thermal effects. It exploits the body's reaction to hot and cold stimuli, to the protracted application of heat, to pressure exerted by the water and to the sensation it gives. The nerves carry impulses felt at the skin deeper into the body, where they are instrumental in stimulating the immune system, influencing the production of stress hormones, invigorating the circulation and digestion, encouraging blood flow and lessening pain sensitivity.

Hydrotherapy and hydrothermal therapy are chiefly used to tone up the body, to stimulate digestion, the circulation and the immune system as well as to bring relief from pain. Water seems to have special powers in getting rid of stress and rejuvenating our body. It affects the skin and muscles. It calms the lungs, heart, stomach and endocrine system by stimulating nerve reflexes on the spinal cord.

㈵

Evidence that it works Various case studies and a number of controlled studies provided evidence of success in the use of hydrotherapy that supports its popular use. In a study of 40 persons at University of Minnesota in the US 85 per cent of the participants preferred a whirlpool bath to a still bath. Only whirlpool was effective in reducing the participants' response to stress, although both still and whirlpool baths were effective in reducing anxiety.

Generally, heat quiets and soothes the body, slowing down the activity of internal organs. Cold, in contrast, stimulates and invigorates, increasing internal activity. If your client is experiencing tense muscles and anxiety from stress, a hot hydrotherapy bath is recommended. If a client is lethargic, unmotivated and exhibits a sluggish disposition then cold hydrotherapy would be indicated.

Recent findings also suggest that changing the water temperature can provide varying therapeutic benefits, from pain relief to stimulating metabolism, as does the addition of various substances to the water such as mineral salts, herbal extracts and essential oils to support the treatment objectives.

When you submerge yourself in a bath, or a whirlpool, you experience a kind of weightlessness. Your body is relieved from the constant pull

Hydrotherapy can also help alleviate tension, nervousness and other symptoms that accompany anxiety attacks, although it cannot cure

㄰

㄰

㤵

㤵

㜵

㜵

㈵

㈵

APJ 101

Body wraps are a body treatment that integrates linens or elastic bandages infused with ingredients to reduce the appearance of cellulite or to hydrate the skin.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

Preparation options

Before a body wrap you can prepare the skin through: ! Dry Body Brushing ! Salt Scrub ! Other forms of Body Exfoliation

Despite all the different types of body treatments where manufacturers are vying to set their products apart, most are very similar in technique. It is their ingredients, target or the desired benefit that anxiety disorders. Warm baths, with or without herbs, can help soothe anxious states of mind. Once you are relaxed you can focus on the issues or conflicts that are causing your anxiety.

If you are anxious or irritated, a cooler bath around 25-28 degrees Celsius has a balancing and soothing effect, while the addition of a blend of essential oils of lavender, geranium and sweet orange will also further relieve an anxious state of mind.

To further enhance the benefit of hydrotherapy the use of marine algae or seaweed offers excellent benefits. Rich in numerous minerals, trace elements, vitamins and amino acids, marine algae further enhances the body's wellbeing, while the re-mineralising properties are released into the water and absorbed into the skin. Magnesium salts and mineral salts from the Dead Sea are also excellent in supporting a state of equilibrium within the nervous and circulatory systems. They work in stimulating the removal of toxins from the skin as well as re-mineralising the body.

SAUNA AND STEAM BATHS Saunas and steam baths are similar in effect; the decision to take one rather than the other will be guided by personal preference. In a sauna the heat acts more quickly to eliminate toxins through the skin, although some consider the moist air of a steam bath to have a more satisfying effect on the respiratory system. Saunas are deeply relaxing and are a great way to melt away stress, and in particular far infrared detox boxes, which more rapidly increase blood circulation and oxygen supply to the tissue and organs as well as numerous other benefits.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

BODY WRAPS AND MASKS Even if you are not a spa you can still offer body wraps to help support your client's wellbeing and improve overall vitality, even without a wet room. This is why wraps and body masks are growing in popularity as they offer great benefit and it is not possible for an individual to do them themselves. Also, consumers are becoming more educated on the benefits of treating the body as a whole. These body treatments range from salt glows and sugar rubs to full-herbal body wraps and detoxifying paraffin cocoons, to Sedona and French red clay body masks all of which work to create truly invigorating body treatments.

differentiates them.

Body wraps basics involve a wrapping technique that is applied on top of a treatment mask. These can be herbals, clays, creams, gels or a seaweed base. These wraps help to intensify the treatment by working on the principles of occlusion. The wrapping technique prevents the client from becoming cold, allows the product to remain in place and facilitates the penetration of the active ingredients into the skin. The active ingredients within the wrap are released and stimulate the skin.

The same protocols can be used with most body treatments. The difference would be in the type of wrapping agent or modality used, such as elastic wraps or bandages that are wrapped around an individual's legs, arms and torso, or a full cotton sheet that wraps the client like a mummy, as if in a cocoon.

The wrap results increase the body temperature and circulation and dilate the blood capillaries, which speed up the absorption of the therapeutic ingredients through the pores and hair follicles. The increased body temperature also relaxes tense muscles and increases perspiration, facilitating the elimination of wastes. Additional ingredients such as clays or mud give clients the added benefit of drawing out toxins.

Elastic wraps are used frequently when clients are going for a temporary slimming effect or to accelerate slimming or cellulite treatment results. The elastic wraps are soaked in a slimming agent or mixture and pre and post-treatment measurements are recorded, taking care to ensure that the "before" and "after" measurements are in exactly the same position to ensure accuracy. This treatment can be incorporated as part of a slimming or cellulite program.

There are a variety of different wraps you can use:

!

Cellophane, Space Blankets or Foil wrapping agents – These are designed to aid the detoxification process by

㄰ 㤵 㜵

locking in heat, moisture, vitamins and minerals. They are designed to work with the body's own natural heat.

!

Dry Blanket Wraps or Cool, Moist Blanket Wraps

You can use Dry Blanket Wraps after a client's core body temperature has increased in heated water or in the body treatment. It begins with

㈵

APJ 102

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

first-layer wrapping in a light cotton blanket, followed by a heavier woollen one.

This accelerates the release of toxins from the body.

In the stances of cool, moist blanket wraps, the goal is to cool the client. In the case of treating sensitised or sunburned skin, you may apply an aloe vera mixture to the first blanket in which the client is wrapped. Cool, moist blanket wraps promote a soothing and comforting outcome.

!

Kneipp Body Wraps

Sebastian Kneipp believed that using water to eliminate wastes from the body could cure diseases.

Kneipp developed m o r e t h a n 1 0 0 d i ff e r e n t hydrotherapy treatments using water in solid, liquid and vapour forms. His treatments include washing, wraps, packs, compresses, steam and baths.

His methods are considered very credible and they are worth seeking out to incorporate in your spa or clinic.

㄰

INGREDIENTS FOR USE IN BODY WRAPS

㤵

Herbs

Form

Benefit

Allspice Basil Burdock Clove Comfrey Eucalyptus Ginger Lavender Rosemary Sage

Berry Leaf Root Stems Leaf Leaf Root Flower Leaf Leaf

Effective with arthritis and sore muscles; mild anaesthetic Stimulates circulation Relieves bruises and inflammation Astringent, antibacterial Soothes Increases blood circulation, antibacterial Increases circulation, detoxifying agent Calming Astringent and tonifying Muscle relaxant

㜵

㈵

SEAWEEDS AND THEIR USE Main Group

Properties

Body condition and treatments

Algae (alginates)

Skin firmness, cell renewal, moisturising

Dry, ageing skin

Cyanophyta (green)

Antibacterial, anti-inflammatory

Dry, irritated skin

Cyanophyta (blue green)

High nutritional group rich in vitamins A, B, C, E stimulates cell metabolic rate rich source of beta-carotene

Detox, cellulite, softening and conditioning

Phaeophyta (brown)

Considered the strongest group More active treatment using heat, detox, for blood & metabolic stimulation cellulite, moisturising and revitalising A, B, C, E

Rhodophyta (red)

Highly balancing emollient algae

A Kneipp wrap envelops the body part with wet and dry cloths that are either hot or cold. Effects are achieved through temperature, length of application, and additives. Increased circulation promotes the removal of metabolic wastes and increases the oxygen and nutrient supply to the skin, resulting in a cleaner, brighter-looking skin with a healthy, hydrated glow.

Moisturising, soothing and conditioning

White Clay: Another mild clay with the least drawing properties of all the clays. It helps stimulate circulation to the skin while gently exfoliating and cleansing the skin. It does not draw oils from the skin and can therefore be used on dry skin types.

Red Clay: A more oily and mildly absorbent clay, Red Clay is IMPORTANCE OF DRINKING SUFFICIENT WATER As the circulatory and lymphatic systems are stimulated during hydrotherapy, or body wraps, so the body is assisted to detoxify. For this reason it is important that at least two litres of water are consumed following these treatments. The body's need for water increases as we grow older. The skin and mucus membranes become thinner and lose more water, while the kidneys function less efficiently. Therefore water intake is essential, even more so as we get older, and even more so during a hydrotherapy treatment.

CONCLUSION

㄰

Even if you are specialising in facial treatments, body wraps and hydrotherapy treatments can still assist you to address issues of stress, toxicity, overall wellness and skin vitality. They are an excellent tool to take your results beyond what you can achieve, but just working on the face.

㤵 㜵

㈵

CLAYS AND THEIR BENEFITS Pink Clay: Particularly beneficial for delicate and sensitive skin types. It helps stimulate circulation to the skin while gently exfoliating and cleansing the skin. It does not draw oils from the skin and can therefore be used on dry skin types. Pink Clay is also excellent for dehydrated skin. It possesses tissue-firming properties and is also used on bust, thighs, stomach and arms for its firming hydrating properties.

preferred for face and body masks in cases of dry, sensitive and reactive skins. Toning in nature with a high iron oxide content, Red Clay is used extensively for sagging skin, fragile skin and for muscle toning.

Green Clay: This is the most absorbent or drawing and the most detoxifying of all the clays. Used extensively for problematic skin conditions such as acne. It is also used in body wraps to exfoliate and detoxify the body. Green Clay has excellent stimulating and regenerating properties and is also an excellent first-aid product. Try it in a small poultice for insect bites and stings, minor wounds and burns.

Dead Sea Clay: The Dead Sea in Israel is renowned for its mineral-rich clay. Thousands flock to its shores from all over the world to experience the wonderful buoyancy of the Dead Sea as well as the healing properties of the clay gathered from the sea bed.

Renowned for its therapeutic properties in relieving the symptoms of psoriasis, eczema and arthritis, Dead Sea clay or mud is now extensively used in beauty salons as a wonderful body wrap to restore skin health and vitality.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

APJ 103

facialtreatments ㄰ 㤵

The facelift through Natural Means – FACIAL EXERCISES

by Cynthia Rowland

㜵

㈵

UPPER EYES AND BROWS An instant lift for beautiful eyes

1

Relax your eyebrow area and then place the three middle fingers of each hand directly under the eyebrow.

2 3

Drop the palms of your hands flat against the face

4 5 6 7 8 9

㄰

With the pads of your fingertips directly under the eyebrows, push your eyebrows upwards and slightly outwards.

Hold your eyebrows in this position with your eyes open.

Slowly push your eyebrows down against your fingertips, while holding your eyebrows high, and hold the contraction for five seconds.

Remove hands from the face.

Breathe in deeply through your nose, and exhale through your nose.

Repeat the exercise again. This time hold the contraction for 10 seconds. At the seventh second, close your eyes, keeping your eyebrows held high.

Remove your hands from your face. Breathe in deeply through your nose and exhale through your nose. Begin again, holding the contraction for 10 seconds and closing your eyes at the seventh second.

Repeat movement again so that you have exercised for a total of 35 seconds.

㤵

㈵

㤵 㜵

The upper eyes will improve as the forehead muscles strengthen.

㜵

㄰

This exercise begins to “awaken” your forehead, concentrating on the area above your eyebrows to the hairline. Initially, you may see a line develop over your brow when you first perform this exercise – THIS IS TEMPORARY and a clear indication that your forehead had lost its firmness.

The human body generally responds well to physical exercise and substantial improvements may be anticipated in heart and lung function, muscular strength and endurance, flexibility and one's ability to respond to stimulii. Exercise increases bone strength and a sense of wellbeing. However, the aesthetic benefit of exercise is that it helps the body look and feel younger, as muscle tone restores a younger-looking physique.

㈵

When it comes to the face it is no different. Various technologies such as microcurrent when used correctly “reeducate” the muscles to assume a more youthful position.

Faradic current is recognised as a muscle-toning technology, however, it is better suited to the body rather than the face. So what about facial exercises? The verdict is that unless they are done correctly they either do not work or even worse, can be counterproductive, so caution is needed to ensure that if you take this on it is a proven methodology and furthermore, correct training is undertaken.

This interview was conducted with Cynthia Rowland who is based in Long Beach, California in the US. Cynthia, initially trained in a method developed in France and then went on to perfect the technique and develop her own system called Facial Magic. She has trained thousands in this method that boasts great success. Here she shares with us about her journey and what this method is doing to help individuals look 10-15 years younger.

APJ1: Tell as about the exercise technique that you teach and why you are so passionate about it?

Cynthia: The process I teach changed my life because I had a sagging eyelid that responded amazingly to the exercises I learnt in Denver, Colorado. Not only did my upper eyelids lift, my forehead that was lined also became smooth and taut and my little wattle disappeared. Rather than opt for a surgical procedure when I saw sagging, I went to Denver, Colorado and undertook several sessions of facelifting exercises with a practitioner called Marcelle Tsechappat who was using a well-known French method.

Marcelle taught me these natural face-lifting exercises that corrected my problem.

When aestheticians see their clients, their clients want one thing – to look younger. This natural process will lift, tone and tighten the facial contour and features. Most users say they look 10-15 years younger at the end of their 12-week program.

These specialised exercises from France can be enjoyed by women and men everywhere because the movements are easy to master, as each week two exercises are introduced and then added to the routine of six days on, one day off.

Most exercises are performed wearing exercise gloves. The movements require that you anchor (isolate) and then contract the muscles. The contractions fortify the muscles with oxygenated blood so that the user sees and feels an immediate response to the movements. Users feel their forehead and cheeks lifting and results can be seen immediately, but of course, the actions must be repeated regularly so that the muscles benefit from the workout.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

APJ 104

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

Thankfully, more and more physicians are recommending our program of exercise to their patients and, of course, using the program themselves! Dentists also praise the efficacy of how these facial exercise enhance their work – the patients’ smiles improve, the muscles that support the jaw are stronger and the alignment is better.

We have medical doctors’ testimonials that are available on request. In years past we had a television show http://www.cynthiarowland.com/media.php#infomercial that aired in the US and also in Australia (Bert Newton was the host).

The doctor that charted the progress of the women who participated is Mark Berman, MD, Santa Monica, Californian.

You can view it by viewing http://www.cynthiarowland.com/medical_endorse.php In the past 20 years we have helped over a million men and women to experience a natural facelift – we have many testimonials along with before and after photos that you are welcome to use. Here is the link to Facial Magic users: http://www.cynthiarowland.com/before_after_fm.php If you would like to view testimonials visit: http://www.rejenuve.com/BB/BB.FM_UT.htm You can also check out our response to frequently asked questions at www.cynthiarowland.com/faqs_fm.php And you can view a sample exercise to lift the upper eyelid and tighten the forehead – http://www.cynthiarowland.com/eye_lift.php

APJ2: What age group are the best candidates for facial exercises?

Cynthia: Working alongside Marcelle, I learnt that from the age of 25, most women will begin to see subtle changes in their facial muscles. By the time a person is 40 there are usually hooded eyes, developing nasal labial folds and a slight loosening under the chin. Personally, I think young men and women aged 25- 35 can benefit from facial exercise. If you are 35-40, seeing the tell-tale signs that something are amiss with your softening skin and features, this is the time to get started.

Even women and men into their 70s and 80s can benefit from the lifting and toning movements. With some of the worse cases of wrinkling, sagging, hollows and more, we see noticeable results in just weeks!

APJ3: What skin and facial conditions can these exercises benefit?

Cynthia: We see great results with oedema, muscular atrophy and hollowness in the cheeks.

APJ4: Are the exercises just done by the therapist or can the client do them at home? Also, how long is a session?

Cynthia: There are many aspects of facial ageing – sun ㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

damage in spots of red and brown, loss of fat, loss of collagen production, soft muscles, drab skin, and, of course, wrinkles.

When you begin exercising the face, everything changes. The skin becomes thicker, more alive and resilient, and the appearance of lines and wrinkles are greatly reduced because the underlying muscle better supports the skin. The action of resistance and contraction provides oxygenated blood to the tissues. Just as exercise for the body enhances the waist, tummy, hips, thighs and more, facial exercise using the specialised anchoring techniques lifts, tones and tightens the features so that the user will look 10-15 years younger within about 9-12 weeks.

APJ5: Do you provide this service as a series of treatments and how often do clients need to come to see results?

Cynthia: The Facial Magic system is designed to use at home; however, in the past two years we have begun certifying aestheticians as Facial Magicians so they can add Facial Magic to their menu of services. When one first begins the Facial Magic program, two exercises are introduced and practised for six days. Each exercise requires 35 seconds. When Week Two begins, the user performs the movements learnt in Week One and then two new movements are added for a total of four exercises. These four exercises are performed six days in a row, one day of rest. Then Week Three begins by performing the movements learnt in Weeks One and Two and then two new exercises are introduced for a total of six exercises. Each week for nine weeks the user learns two new movements and adds them to the routine. The program builds each week, and when all 18 exercises are completed the time requirement to perform them is about 26 minutes.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

APJ6: Do clients need to come for maintenance treatments?

Cynthia: Aestheticians who are certified Facial Magic trainers will usually schedule one-hour treatments once a week for each client. They practise the exercises with them and when time allows they will have a derma-planing session or a “lunchtime facial”. The prices for aesthetician treatments vary – in Southern California the aesthetician will charge $200 an hour, in Florida the prices are less because of the economy. The aestheticians do sell a series of treatments, too. The Platinum package is $2500 and this includes a variety of services and skincare along with Facial Magic training for 12 weeks. The Gold Package is $1100 and includes 12 weeks of Facial Magic training and four services. The Silver Package is $450 and includes three weeks of Facial Magic training. Maintenance is offered and this is where the $200 per hour or less is used. All clients receive the Facial Magic Starter Kit when they enrol for any of the programs.

CYNTHIA ROWLAND Cynthia has discovered “The Facial Fountain of Youth”. As creator of the Facial Magic system, Ms. Rowland’s pioneering work has helped women and men look 10 to 15 years younger simply by doing European spa exercises that help tone, tighten and lift facial muscles. No cosmetic surgery, injections or electrostimulation are needed! Cynthia, a sought-after speaker, has appeared on many TV and radio shows, including The Today Show, The View, Rachael Ray, The Fashion Team and The Doctors. She has been interviewed by many publications, including The Los Angeles Times, The New York Daily News and The Denver Business Journal. She has given numerous seminars and workshops nationwide through The Learning Annex and special appearances through special women's and philanthropic organisations. She is co-host of The Ageless Sisters on blogtalkradio.com and author of The Magic of Facial Exercise.

Cynthia's Facial Magic and Luscious Lips are recommended by plastic surgeons, dermatologists and even dentists. Two of her biggest advocates are Mark Berman, M.D., past president of the California Academy of Cosmetic Surgeons, and Carolyn Doherty, M.D., who both laud Cynthia for her innovative work.

To learn more about Cynthia Rowland’s Facial Magic and her training programs here are her contact details:

Cynthia Rowland, P.O. Box 3902, Long Beach, CA 90803,USA www.cynthiarowland.com Email: customerservice@cynthiarowland.com

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

APJ 105

keyingredient ㄰

㄰

㤵

㤵

㜵

㜵

㈵

Renewed interest in the benefits of ALOE VERA

㈵

ALOE CANNOT BE SYNTHESISED The benefits of aloe vera have been known for centuries, however, new studies confirm its benefits not only for internal use, but also for topical application. You will probably find this ingredient resurfacing both in health shops and supermarkets as drinks, as well as a more common ingredient in skincare. In fact, the recent skincare produced

by Max-Visible Solutions, boast that it uses a high-quality patented form of aloe vera instead of large quantities of water (see page 80).

There are many species of aloe vera but the one most recognised for its therapeutic properties is Aloe barbadensis.

RESEARCH FINDINGS Over 200 worldwide scientific research papers have been published on the effects of aloe vera. The three main categories of research include anti-inflammatory, anti-bacterial, and anti-viral actions of aloe vera. The juice is said to soothe digestive tract irritations such as colitis, ulcers and irritable bowel syndrome. Aloe's ability to encourage the release of pepsin (a gastric juice enzyme necessary for digestion) when the stomach is full, is a possible reason for its ulcerhealing effects (Journal of the American Osteopathic Society, 1963, vol.62).

In one study, oral use of aloe vera for six months helped mitigate asthma symptoms in almost half of the participants. Eleven of 27 patients studied, who drank aloe reported feeling better at the end of the study. Researchers think that results might be due to stimulation of the immune system, as well as naturally-occurring anti-inflammatory agents in the plant.

If you are buying an aloe vera product, always purchase those made from 100% pure Aloe Vera. Look out for the International Aloe Science Council Seal of Approval as a guide.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

In 1997 a further study at the University of San Antonio in the US by researcher Jeremiah Herlihy Ph.D conducted a study to observe any negative effects of drinking aloe vera daily. Rather than exhibiting negative effects, however, test animals receiving daily aloe vera showed a remarkable reduction in leukaemia, heart disease, and kidney disease. Dr. Herlihy concluded, "We found no indication of harm done to the rats even at high levels." In fact, the aloe-drinking animals actually lived 25 percent longer than those in the control group (IASC Conference, Texas, 1997).

While aloe vera plant benefits for hair and skin are constantly being propounded, to truly harness its powers it is important to know how to use the plant. The extract used must come from the transparent fluid exuded by the inner leaf as this is the part of the plant that contains the substance that will benefit the skin or hair with moisturising properties.

There is no single ingredient that makes aloe vera potent and healthful.

Researcher Robert Davis, Ph.D., an endocrinologist-biologist, explains that fifteen different compound groups of nutrients work together to make the plant effective. This means that aloe vera's effects cannot be synthesised easily in a laboratory. On the upside, this makes the plant useful across a wide spectrum of circumstances. And because the various elements that make aloe vera effective are nutrients rather than drugs, aloe vera juice may complement medical treatments. In fact some cancer patients state that aloe vera seems to reduce nausea, increase energy, and may help to minimise low blood counts caused by chemotherapy or radiation.

NUTRITIONAL INFORMATION Aloe vera is one of the only known natural vegetarian sources of Vitamin B12, and it contains many minerals vital to the growth process and healthy function of all the body's systems. Numerous studies worldwide indicate that aloe vera is a general tonic for the immune system, helping it to fight illness of all kinds. Various research studies are under way to explore the potential of aloe vera components to boost immunity and combat the HIV virus, and to treat certain types of cancer (particularly leukemia). It may even have a role to play in managing diabetes.

Aloe vera contains protein, calcium, magnesium, zinc, vitamins A, B12 and E, essential fatty acids and is naturally rich in: ! Vitamin C – Which helps maintain tone of blood vessels and promotes good circulation and is essential to the health of the adrenal gland which supports our body in times of stress. ! Amino acids – Which are chains of atoms constructing protein in our body. ! Enzymes – Which are the life-principle in every live, organic atom and molecule of natural raw food, rejuvenate aged tissues and promote healthy skin. ! Germanium – A mineral that some health authorities claim therapeutic benefits for immune-deficiency, pain, cardiac disorders, circulatory disturbances and eye problems.

Aloe vera juice is said to be one of the finest body cleansers, cleaning morbid matter from the stomach, liver, kidneys, spleen, bladder, and is considered the finest, known colon cleanser. Studies have shown that it is healing and soothing in the relief of indigestion, stomach distress and ulcers. People claim relief from arthritis, bladder and kidney infections; leg cramps, constipation, haemorrhoids, insomnia, and for vaginitis, it is said to be an excellent vaginal douche.

Aloe vera is an excellent internal tonic for energy and wellbeing.

However, what is evident is that the benefits of aloe vera do not lie in the high quantities of nutrients it contain, but rather in the synergistic blend of nutrients that come together to produce a highly beneficial and health-giving and nutrient plant.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

APJ 106

It's not what you say about yourself – it's what others say about you that matters!

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

㄰ 㤵 㜵

“Thank you so much with all my heart for your generosity and kind-hearted professional advice that helped me find my first dream job at Tha Spa in Sydney after graduating in beauty therapy. You worked with me to fine-tune my CV and briefed me on the interview process so that I could get accepted and we did it! THANK YOU for all you valuable advice and effort in helping me prepare professionally to gain my dream job, which I now have. You are amazing with your advice and I enjoyed every phone call you and I had. I could not imagine a career without you and I value how you are there for me, and how secure APAN makes me feel knowing I can always turn to you for help. THANK YOU SOOO MUCH!” Bettina Rakatau, NSW

“Why I joined APAN is quite simple really - compatibility!

I have always aspired to high standards, for example, if I lost everything tomorrow and I had to become a street sweeper, I'd be the best street sweeper in the country. Therefore when I heard about APAN I thought, Hallelujah - at last someone after my own heart! After speaking with Tina on a few occasions the deal was done. I like what she stands for principles and integrity. So rare to meet people who are honourable and who embrace transparency and honesty as a way of doing business.

She's my type of gal!”

Leslie Morgan-Wesson, Lady at Bay Anti-Ageing Spa & Beauty Centre, Sydney.

“ APAN's Expo and Conference in Hervey Bay, Qld was the best event I have every attended! Got heaps out of it. Loved the unique style and intimacy. I got to speak to all the exhibitors and gained valuable information, which I don't have the opportunity to do at the big expo in Sydney. We drove from NSW to attend and it was worth every minute. I left uplifted and inspired with a great deal of valuable knowledge. I am thrilled we decided to go and will attend again.”

Sonia D'Errey La Belle Lumiere and Lavender Blue Day Spa, Murwillumbah NSW.

㈵

“I didn't want to just be a member of an Association I wanted to be part of an active industry network. Networks are the modern structures of the future. In the 60s and 70s Associations were the only structures that represented an industry or profession. However, networks are now the modern service models as they offer greater flexibility to meet the needs of businesses and the members they represent.”

Maureen Houssein-Mustafa, Australasian College Broadway, Sydney.

㈵

A

ORK

㜵

CTI PRA TION

DV

TW

㤵

S

S ER

㄰

STHETI AE C

“My association with APAN is one that I greatly value.

It is exciting to be part of a great organisation and a large professional network that can offer me support and expert advice. APAN has brought a new level of service and have shown great integrety within the industry. Their commitment and passion for the good of the industry is inspirational. Whenever I have reach out to them they have always been very positive, resourceful and supporting as well as generous and willing to help in any way they can.”

Nella Faraone, Vorei Designs Perth WA

I S O RY

NE

㄰

APAN

㜵

Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network

Ph: 07 5593 0360 Email: info@apanetwork.com Web: www.apanetwork.com

㤵

㈵

With a strong focus on member benefits, APAN delivers what it promises. We are committed to your progress.

Bioelements ticks all the boxes for your business

    

Professional Product Formulations

Complete results-driven range of product that combine the best of science and nature for all skin types and conditions

Custom-Blending

Utilises unique custom-blending lab to target both in-salon treatments and homecare regime to client's specific concerns

Certified Organic Range

All Things Pure was launched recently for the purist client who won't compromise on their all natural, organic product preference

Business Builders

Help your business to grow with support, samples, posters, displays, marketing materials, education programs and more.

Value for Money

Generous salon retail margins and low cost per service in the treatment room all support greater salon profitability. Multiple entry levels for all budgets.

Call us today to learn how Bioelements can work for you, your business and your clients.

www.absolutespa.com.au 1300 262 275

®