APJ Vol 2 2009

Aesthetics Practitioners Journal

Journal

AESTHETICS

The official publication of the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network ISSN: 1836-9812 Volume 2. 2009

PRACTITIONERS

Volume 2.

2009

FLAWLESS FINISH The most beautiful cosmetic you can wear is a healthy skin. That’s why everything we develop is a true extension of skin care. Our makeup is not just a refinement of normal makeup; it’s a new technology.

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Network (APAN). This seminar program could not have come at a more opportune time. Even though it has been in the planning for over two months it was decided by all concerned that November is appropriate to launch it across Australia and allow therapists and their staff to gain some valuable new tools and upgrade their skills just in time for the summer season. So please book to attend our first Network Seminar as they plan to be packed with valuable information and a great deal of fun.

Editor’s Letter As I interact with suppliers and practitioners across the nation I am convinced that there is definitely a shift in attitude for the coming months. There is an air of confident expectation, as business appears to be picking up, particularly for those who are not prepared to contend with defeat.

On the other hand the Government is cautious, and with reservations is indicating that we can expect things to pick up by the end of 2009, with more optimistic economic predictions for 2010. I believe the worst is over and it is time that we drew from the industry’s positive momentum to ensure we are going to be part of the winning team.

In this issue of the Aesthetics Practitioners Journal you will learn about our first Nation-Wide Seminar Program as a Network organisation. This has been as a result of the enthusiasm and passion of many industry professionals who have reached out to contribute their support and services. I have been so overwhelmed to receive hundreds of emails and congratulations from so many of you in my decision to embrace a new organisational model that led to the launch of the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory

Regardless of what challenges we face renewing our focus on a positive attitude, raising our standards and improving our skills will ensure that consumer confidence will be in our favour.

People want to be associated with positive, dynamic businesses that offer quality products and services, as well as people who are not afraid to take the lead in the area of progress and professional development. Choose to be part of the answer and not the problem and others will gladly follow you. As an aesthetic practitioner you should invest in being not only a skin expert, but also a leader in your field. And leaders always have a following, so work towards your own improvement, both personally and professionally and your success will take care of itself.

In the issue of APJ you will note a great emphasis on technology as well as great educational articles on formulations. There are also several articles on health and wellness through interviews we have conducted with world leading experts. As the lines between aesthetics and wellness become more blurred so we will be progressively presenting to you articles to help you become more comfortable with this transition. You will be given the opportunity to consider undertaking further study in such areas that are perhaps outside of your current qualifications.

The need for this is simply a matter of progress. We know that your newfound knowledge will not only benefit you, but also be welcome by your clients with their ever-growing expectations for the latest and very best.

Editor Tina Viney Phone (07) 5593 0360 Fax: (07) 5593 0367 Email: info@apanetwork.com Web: www.apanetwork.com Typesetting & Graphics Mark Viney Advertising and Marketing Tina Viney Phone: 07 5593 0360 Kharis Enterprises Pty Ltd 8 Parkdale Court Robina Qld 4218 Fax: 07 5593 0367 Mobile: 0412 177 423 Email: info@kharis.com Publishers Aesthetics Practioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd Design, Production and Artwork Kharis Enterprises Pty Ltd 8 Parkdale Court Robina Q 4226 Phone: 07 5593 0360 Fax: 07 5593 0367 Mobile: 0412 177 423 Email: info@kharis.com Produced for Aesthetics Practioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd ACN 136 987 169 ABN 25 136 987 169 Print Post Approved.

Circulation 5000 Accounts Payable APAN Pty Ltd PO Box 5448 Q Super Centre Qld 4218 Australia

Enjoy this issue.

Tina Viney Editor/CEO

ISSN: 1836-9812

Journal Advisory Board Terry Everitt (Education) Wendy Neely (PR & Marketing) Dr Douglas Grose (Scientific) Caroline Nelson (Business)

This publication is not associated in any way with the Association of Professional Aestheticians of Australia (APAA).

The Aesthetics Practitioners Journal is the official publication of the Aesthetics Practioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd, a network organisation established to service the needs of the aesthetics industry in the area of professional development and business networking. The Aesthetics Practitioners Journal is published quarterly for the benefit of its members and subscribers and aims to inform and educate its members on better business practices and industry advancements.

All editorials and articles that are submitted for publishing remain the property of Aesthetics Practioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd. Cover: OMNIDERM and Reproduction in part or in whole is not permitted without prior written Dr Spiller Biocosmetic authorisation by the publishers. Every effort has been made to ensure that all Tel: 1300 301 007 scientific and technical information presented is as accurate as possible at For information visit the time of publishing. However, members and readers are highly www.everyskin.com.au recommended to also seek external advice from their accountant, registered financial adviser or healthcare professional for their recommendations.

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APAN, INDUSTRY REPORTS AND NEWS 8 15 23 88-89 94-95 96-98 96 97

product performers

CEO’s Report APAN Membership The driving force behind AACDS Cosmetics vesus Cosmeceutical – winning the client with your expertise Scientific News Aesthetic Industry Bulletin Test your knowledge International Aesthetic & Spa Show Calendar 2009

SCIENTIFIC RESEARCH/ANTI-AGEING/INGREDIENTS 16-19 40-42 44-45 59-51 58-60 62-62 68-70 74-76 82-83

Understanding Peels and how they affect the skin Stress, Telomeres and Botanical Medicine Are you revealing to your client their true skin condition?

The power of multiplication Treating the whole body – Anti-ageing effects of laser biomodulation Anti-Ageing Solutions – the double-pronged approach Factors affecting ingredient penetration for antioxidant and vitamin Serums Vitiligo – Causes and treatment options Sea Buckthorn Berry for skin renewal and internal health

BUSINESS & PROFESSIONAL DEVELOPMENT 6-7 12-14 34-35 38-39 39 90-91 92-93

National Network and Professional Development Seminars Integrity in a world of compromise Setting up your own Salon – How to get it right from the start Introducing IPL technology into your business – What the experts have to say Start Publicity Planning The new approach to successful selling strategies Business News in Brief

EDUCATION, TREATMENTS AND TECHNOLOGY 20-21 24 30-32 36-37 48-49 54-55 64 66-67 72-73 86-87

Ultrasound breaks new ground Advanced Skin Analysis Microdermabrasion – Getting the most out of your procedure Home-Use Laser & IPL Devices and their performance capabilities How to win the Corporate Client – Part II A treatment for detoxification and Glowing Skin Further Education, Training and Consultancy The role of bio-energetic medicine in Anti-Ageing and Wellness Workplace – The new training revolution A comprehensive examination of Mineral Makeup

PRODUCTS 52 77-81

Getting your business ready for results and high profits Product Releases

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seminars

Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network Presents

NATIONAL NETWORK & PROFESSIONAL DEVELOPMENT SEMINAR S SEMINAR LOCATIONS: WA: 16th Nov Time: 2-5pm

VIC: 16th Nov Time: 6-9pm

NT: 30th Nov Time: 6-9pm

Discover New Techniques

Raise Your Confidence With Education December and January are traditionally the busiest months for consumer spending, gift giving and holidays. It’s the season of the year when we take time out to celebrate and reconnect with friends and family and the season for indulging in our wellbeing and what makes us feel good.

Are you ready for the special trading season? Now is the time to review your merchandising and product launches as well as must-have treatment packages.

What technologies do you have in your business?

Are you effectively integrating them to their full potential so that you can achieve the best possible APJ 6

results? Are you creating new and exciting packages with the technology you currently have in your salon to gain new clients?

In November APAN is launching a nation-wide seminar program in several States. The theme is “Equipment Integration and Synergy for Exceptional Results”.

At this seminar you will learn:

! New protocols in combining and blending technologies for better long-lasting treatment results ! The correct procedures for safety and enhanced cell renewal and anti-ageing benefits ! Creating new treatment packages with synergistic benefits ! How to effectively market these treatment for client response and much more….

Topic: Equipment Integration & Synergy for Exceptional Results NSW: 2nd Nov Time: 6-9pm

QLD: Brisbane 16th Nov Time: 10am-1.pm

GOLD COAST: 4th Nov Time: 6-8pm

Create Better Results

Grow Your Business

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Pre-Bookings essential for catering purposes.

RSVP by 28th October, 2009 To reserve your seat, details on speaker and location Phone 07 5593 0360 or Email: info@apanetwork.com

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These events will help you gain new skills in improving your treatment outcomes and help you prepare for the most profitable months yet.

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Cost: $40 APAN Platinum & Gold members: 50% Discount APAN Silver members 20% discount Students: $20 – APAN Student members $15 Refreshments will be served and all delegates who attend will receive a Statement of Attendance.

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ceo’s report Teamwork – the mechanism for growth and success

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Dear Colleagues and Friends

Lifelong learning is such an exciting adventure as it offers us information that can open up new options and possibilities. It allows us to better understand ourself, our world and others, while the information we choose to embrace and take on board will progressively shape who we become and, ultimately, how we influence others. Life is never boring if you constantly ask questions and explore how you can better yourself, and how you can impact your world in a more positive way, both personally and professionally.

Having been involved in leadership roles for many years I have always had an interest and studied leadership styles, whether individual or organisational, so here are my conclusions. In the broader sense there are only two leadership styles – the Autocratic and the Lateral. Both have their benefits and limitations and both definitely have a time and a place when they can be the most effective. Let’s look at them more closely:

AUTOCRATIC LEADERSHIP STYLE So what characterises the Autocratic Leader: ! They are take-charge people who meet a challenge head-on APJ 8

They make decisions on their feet They are quick to solve a problem, good or bad They are self-motivated They like solutions and pursue them at all costs They don’t wait for others, they take the lead

The Autocratic Leader is the most effective in addressing a crisis. They are “can do” people who don’t procrastinate and can effectively address a challenging situation in either solving a problem or nipping a potential misunderstanding or problem in the bud, before it blows out into a full-scale crisis. However, because of their abilities, they often don’t allow others around them to grow and develop and become problem-solvers in their own right. This sometimes leads to them being surrounded by people who lack initiative and who are comfortable to just follow the leading of others. Examples are trainees who are still learning and who need micro-managing until they reach full competence. However, you cannot grow a business or an organisation on this leadership style. On the other hand, if you are self-employed where every move forward always comes back to you, then these qualities should be pursued and developed.

LATERAL LEADERSHIP STYLE Now what are the characteristics of the Lateral Leader? ! Is a team player ! Likes to empower others ! Sees the potential in every individual ! Is a facilitator ! Sees the value of group dynamics ! Allows others to take the lead in their jurisdiction ! Encourages initiative and self-expression The Lateral Leader, however, doesn’t abandon his/her responsibilities on others – they are not lazy. They are very much in control of what is going on and understand the playing field of what needs to happen. What they do understand however, is that their business or organisation can only go so far if it is reliant only on their contribution and their ability.

Lateral leaders build teams that can fulfil their vision and shape their business.

They coach, mentor and empower others to reach their full potential.

I have always been a believer that you can only take others where you have been yourself, and so I believe in leading by example.

Since the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network (APAN) was formed I have received numerous phone calls and emails of congratulations by many individuals, and most of them have also stated “What can I do to help?”

APAN’s mission statement is to “develop dynamic alliances for the Aesthetic Industry”. I cannot, and do not propose do this on my own. This is why you will see that with the help of others we are launching our first nation-wide Seminar program in November (see pages 6-7). We are able to achieve this in so many States through the support and assistance of those individuals who have put forward their interest to help. From the bottom of my heart I would like to thank these admirable ladies and will do everything in my power to support them.

They are: NSW – Mariza Nuttle Victoria – Marnie Browne and Julia Grinberg WA – Christine Comans and Beuler Adler Qld – Paula Friewn and Metro-Dora Clifford Gold Coast – Bonnie Sleep and Lynnette Grant Northern Territory – Katy Sellwood A special thanks to Gay Wardle for her continued support across all States.

Think about it, which position would give you the most satisfaction – a job where you are give permission to have a level of self-expression, or a job where you are so regimented that you become a clone of someone else? Don’t misunderstand me. I am a strong advocate of high standards that must be adhered to. But unless a person believes that they also have the freedom to express themselves in the task they have undertaken, they will never put passion in this task and their contribution will be mechanical rather than holistic.

For someone to feel compelled to give their very best to a task they must be supported by trust and faith in them by those who mentor them.

ENGAGING THE INDUSTRY What APAN intends to do is give the industry an opportunity for self-expression through the involvement of individual innovation that allows them to be part of the shaping of an industry they love.

My role is to facilitate, mentor, encourage and empower others to be part of this exciting journey. As an industry we need to take responsibility to contribute individually and collectively towards the changes that characterise growth and are necessitated for progress. This can only be achieved through the sharing of our knowledge and what has worked for us so that others can also experience the same measure of success.

Our seminar program will aim to do just that. Allow those who have reached a level of credible achievement to share it with others and allow them to also gain from this knowledge.

Our legacy can only live if what we have developed can be passed on to others and live through them as well. Otherwise our achievements will die when we pass from this world.

According to several Government economic indicators we are approaching the end of the economic downturn and we need to prepare for better days ahead. At the recent Sydney International Spa and Expo there was an air of optimism and evidence of improved business confidence. Let’s prepare to be part of the recovery by making sure what we offer to the community is important, valuable and relevant to their quality of life. The objective of these seminars is to help prepare you for greater profitability in the coming busy period through new techniques and more advanced treatment results. I trust you will take advantage to attend a seminar near you and to be actively involved in the professional community that APAN intends to foster. We look forward to seeing you.

Kindest regards

Tina Viney Chief Executive Officer

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What I have given these individuals is basic guidelines of expectations and conduct. I have come to understand that if you have too many rules and regulations you will ultimately kill initiative. Having said that, I acknowledge that it is quite possible that people who are having a go may not do it perfectly the first time around, but life is not about perfection, it is about growth – on-going growth and development.

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CREATING MOMENTUM FOR EFFECTIVE TEAMWORK

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GOVERNANCE, ADVISORY AND ADMINISTRATION

One of APAN’s objectives as an organisation is to be known for its excellence in service and for quality innovations that will support the aesthetic industry in the area of effective networking, information exchange and growth. To ensure that the initiatives and the information it presents to the industry are sound, contemporary and credible, APAN will be administered in the following way:

AESTHETICS PRACTITIONERS JOURNAL To support quality control and ensure that all aspects of the journal have the input of experts APAN has appointed a Journal Advisory Board to overseas the various categories in the Aesthetics Practitioners Journal. The individuals that comprise this Board are respected as credible professionals and will be required to make recommendations to the editor on topics, content and considerations relating to the various articles featured in the journal. The Journal Advisory Board consists of: Dr Douglas Grose – Scientific content Dr Grose graduated from the University of Sydney Medical School in 1970. Prior to graduation in Medicine he obtained a Science Degree with First Class Honours majoring in Pharmacology, also from Sydney University. Dr Grose moved to the Gold Coast and established his own medical practice called Australian Skin Clinics, focusing more intently on acne, sun damage and ageing skin through topical active skincare and laser-based technologies.

He is also the director and co-founder of ASAP skin products, cosmeceutical-based skincare products available through doctors and beauty therapists. Dr Grose is on the National Advisory Board of the Cosmetic Physicians Society of Australia and is a Fellow and Council Member of the Australasian College of Cosmetic Surgery. Dr Grose is based in Queensland and can be contacted via email: dr.douglas@asaproduct.com Terry Everitt – Education features Terry Everitt is established internationally as an educator in advanced clinical aesthetic subject matter and brings a wealth of knowledge, not only in aesthetic care, but also in the technical management of training development. As a consultant to industry, specialising in compliance and regulatory issues, he is involved as a member of the Curriculum Assessment Panel and in the auditing of the Recognised Training Organisations within the Australian Quality Training Framework. Terry is available to manufacturers and distributors, colleges and other interested parties for the development and delivery of training requirements on a consultancy basis. Terry is based APJ 9

Caroline Nelson – Business features Caroline Nelson is a thirdgeneration aesthetician with extensive knowledge and experience on what makes a business successful. In recent years she has entered the business coach arena with great success. She is a regular contributing writer in many trade publications both in Australia and overseas and a popular speaker at conferences where she speaks to a packed audience of eager business owners who appreciate her no-nonsense approach to salon management and salon operations.

Caroline is the author of the Ignite Your Beauty Business for $uccess – Salon, Staff Policies Procedures and Systems Manual including the Managers Induction and Staff Training Manual, which enables salon and spa owners to easily and quickly customise their own operational manual.

She also conducts beauty management master classes throughout Australia. Caroline Nelson is based in Queensland and can be contacted on 07 5574 2542 or 0410 600 440.

My role is to facilitate, mentor, encourage and empower others to be part of this exciting journey. As an industry we need to take responsibility to contribute individually and collectively towards the changes that characterise growth and are necessitated for progress. This can only be achieved through the sharing of our knowledge and what has worked for us so that others can also experience the same measure of success.

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Wendy Neely – PR and marketing Wendy Neely is the Managing Director of Nonstoppr. She has over 20 years’ experience as a Public Relations professional and specialises in the beauty industry.

Throughout her professional career she has been a key catalyst in successfully launching several, now, well-established professional brands into the Australian market through her skill, hard work and her incredible connections with over 30 magazine editors, newspapers and journalists.

Nonstoppr is a Sydney-based business that provides services throughout Australia. Ph: 02 9684 6729 or 0438 911 017.

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in Sydney and can be contacted through Advanced Educators Ph: 02 95 99 6 836.

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NATIONAL ADVISORY COUNCIL

For an organisation to be effective it needs to demonstrate leadership and innovation by establishing valuable alliances with other professional institutions, as well as introduce programs and initiatives that will support and further the cause and purpose of the organisation’s mission.

To assist in this task APAN has appointed the APAN NATIONAL ADVISORY COUNCIL, consisting of some incredible individuals who will review key projects and put forward proposals and recommendations for the consideration of APAN’s MANAGEMENT BOARD. The APAN NATIONAL ADVISORY COUNCIL consists of the following individuals: John R. Fergusson John Fergusson was born in New Zealand and educated in Christchurch and in the USA. He holds qualifications in Nutrition with Donsbach University of Nutrition, Huntington Beach, California, USA and also holds several qualifications in business management. Since 1964 he has lived in the USA, Australia, New Zealand and Canada, making frequent visits to Europe and South-East Asia on business and leadership training assignments for a number of organisations. Throughout his career he has held key management positions with several national and multinational organisations in the health or food sector, where he has been involved as a key contributor to the strategic development, marketing and growth of these organisations on the global market. Among his successes have been to see some organisations reaching over 50,000 active distributors/franchisees throughout Australia and New Zealand. John Fergussion is based in Sydney. He can be contacted on 02 9898 0681.

Bill Anton, Bsc.(Hons), PhD, ABAARM, AACNEM Bill Anton is the Chairman of the AustralAsian Academy of AntiAgeing Medicine (A5M) and an A4M board-certified Diplomate of Anti-Ageing Medicine. He has been practising Anti-Ageing Medicine for over 15 years and has assisted in promoting the field of Anti-Ageing Medicine throughout the world. He has been instrumental in establishing a number of serum, urine and saliva hormone test panels and profiles for Integrative, Functional and AntiAgeing Medicine. Currently, Bill Anton consults as a clinical and nutritional research biochemist for PathLab/Age Diagnostic Laboratories and serves as the current Medical Research Director of LifeSource Anti-Ageing clinics in Melbourne. He is an ESAAM (European Society of AntiAgeing Medicine) scientific board member and a board member of the International Hormone Society. Formerly, he

One of APAN’s objectives as an organisation is to be known for its excellence in service and for quality innovations that will support the aesthetic industry in the area of effective networking, information exchange and growth. To ensure that the initiatives and the information it presents to the industry are sound, contemporary, and credible, APAN will be administered through the guidance of its National Advisory Council. was a Senior Lecturer and Consultant in Integrative Medicine and the coordinator of the course in Anti-Ageing Medicine at Swinburne University’s, Graduate School of Medicine, Melbourne, Victoria. Bill Anton is based in Melbourne and can be contacted on 03 9813 0439 or email: enquiries@a5m.net Vanessa Kirkham Vanessa Kirkham is a qualified accountant and a Justice of the Peace and also holds qualifications in aesthetics. She has worked extensively for both health and wellness organisations, as well as for a major accounting firm in Queensland for four years. Vanessa has also served on the Board of several organisations where she has contributed to their strategic planning and development. With over 17 years’ experience in the health and wellness industry, Vanessa brings strong skills in the area of organisational structure and financial control. She is currently the accountant of a Queensland health organisation. Vanessa is based in Queensland and can be contacted on 0412 707 044.

Gill Fish Gill Fish is the Director and the specialist of the anti-ageing PR agency Brand New Solutions, which specialises in high-end medical, anti-ageing, health and wellness PR. The company has worked with leading medical professional, technologies, products, clinics and associations in its six year of service, delivering credible and cutting-edge content to media across the board on behalf of its clients. Gill’s own career spans 15 years in media management, followed by the establishment of BNS. She is acknowledged and recognised as Australia’s most credible, astute and successful PR professional in the field of anti-ageing and a leader in her

field. Gill is based in Sydney and can be contacted on 0400 200 441 or Email: gfish@brandnewsolutions.com.au Terry Everitt Because of his extensive qualifications and knowledge in the area of aesthetics and standards management, Terry Everitt, who is also on the Journal Advisory Board, has been invited to contribute his expertise also on the APAN N AT I O N A L A D V I S O R Y COUNCIL. Kathleen Begley Ms Kathleen Begley has been an analyst for Queensland Treasury since 2001 and is currently the Principal Treasury Analyst for the Queensland Government Treasury.

During this time, she has worked on policy issues across a range of industries, from new market development to health services.

Prior to joining Queensland Treasury, Ms Begley worked in the former Department of State Development in Queensland and the Northern Territory Treasury on a range of commercial matters – including gaming, general leasing arrangements and general due diligence. Ms Begley has a Bachelor of Business (majoring in accountancy) from the Queensland University of Technology and a Bachelor of International Business from Griffith University. Ms Begley is currently studying towards a Bachelor of Law at Queensland University of Technology. Kathleen can be contacted via email: kath.begley@bigpond.com

QUALITY CONTRIBUTION Through the collective wisdom and expertise of the above individuals APAN aims to provide a contemporary organisational model that will assist it to achieve noteworthy strategic initiatives that will enhance the aesthetic industry’s credibility.

As mentioned previously, APAN will also be working with State representatives who will assist in coordinating activities for their State. If you believe you have something positive to contribute and would like to be involved in putting together with APAN’s support and help a seminar or a networking event in your area, please email info@apanetwork.com and someone will get back to you to see how we can assist you.

Meanwhile, we encourage the industry to review the membership benefits and identify how we can best support you. The beauty of APAN is that you choose what level of membership you want based on the level of service you believe will best suit you. To download an Application Form visit www.apanetwork.com. Don’t forget our upcoming seminar. You can also download a Seminar Application Form, email info@apanetwork.com or phone 07 5593 0360.

We invite you to take advantage of the discounts and invest in your professional development.

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personal development

INTEGRITY in a world of compromise

by Tina Viney In a world of compromise for the sake of quick success we often forget that the chief cornerstone of true success is not a strategy or our education, but rather a principle called INTEGRITY. Webster’s Dictionary describes integrity as “adherence to moral and ethical principles; soundness of moral character; honesty”. Ethical principles are not flexible. A little white lie is still a lie. Theft is theft, whether it is $1 or $1000. Integrity commits itself to character over personal gain, to people over things, to service over power, to principles over convenience, to the long view over the immediate.

Character is made up in small moments in our life. Any time we break a moral principle we create a small crack in the foundation of our integrity, and when times get tough, it becomes harder to act with integrity, not easier. Character is not created in a crisis. It only comes to light in a crisis. Under pressure, we, as well as others, get to see what we are really made of. Developing and maintaining integrity requires constant attention. A wise man once said “I’ve always tried to live with the following simple rule: Don’t do what you wouldn’t feel comfortable reading about it in the newspapers the next day.” That’s a good standard for all of us to keep.

PREDETERMINING YOUR VALUES Years ago, when I lectured in Beauty Therapy, I particularly enjoyed teaching on the value and importance of a Code of Ethics. In our profession we are expected to live and practice by a Code of Ethical Conduct. This is because we live, work and interact intimately with other human beings. Clients trust us with their face and body, and when they close their eyes they want to know that we will do the right thing by them. Indeed, our profession requires that we work on other human beings who have entrusted themselves to us.

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My students would sometimes ask, “But why can’t we determine the rules as we go along”? To answer their questions I used a very poignant example they could understand. As many of my students were in their late teens and early 20s they were still in the romantic, dating phase of their life. So to demonstrate my point I asked them the following question. “If you set some ground rules about who you would be prepared to date and one of those rules and ethical convictions was that you would never consider dating a married man. Then one day you met a married guy who was attractive to you. Would you get involved with them, or would your inner compass ring alarm bells and warn you to be cautious? On the other hand, if you were confronted with that situation and did not have any ground rules, how much more difficult would it be at this point to consider the consequences of such a relationship and take action? As you can see this would not be the best time to set the rules, as your heart would probably take you down a dangerous path before you even realised it.”

We can add to our rules as we go along, but we still need to set a foundation of conduct before we enter our profession. Your ethics need to be carefully chosen. They need to be objective, they need to consider all potential contingencies before they happen, and they must be established as part of your convictions prior to you entering the arena of your life or your profession.

In this way they will be the most effective in providing an anchor for your credibility and protect your character.

THE POWER OF POSITIVE COMMUNICATION I recently had a meeting with Dr Price who is including an article in this journal. She wanted to demonstrate to me the energetic power of thought – both positive and negative.

Exercising a Kinesiology technique she requested that the person sitting opposite me think a positive thought towards me without speaking a word. As that thought was directed at me

she tested me and my body responded at a strong energy level. She then asked the person to think a negative thought towards me. This time when she tested me my system was greatly weakened.

We can add to our rules as we go along, but we still need to set a foundation of conduct before we enter our profession. Your ethics need to be carefully chosen. They need to be objective, they need to consider all potential contingencies before they happen, and they must be established as part of your convictions prior to you entering the arena of your life or your profession. In this way they will be the most effective in providing an anchor for your credibility and protect your character.

When we communicate with our clients, or for that matter with other human beings, without integrity we weaken them. On the other hand, if we communicate with sincerity, with honesty and with a positive, kind and generous disposition, we strength others and they enjoy our company as they sense that they can trust and feel safe with us. In our line of work we interact with others, often for lengthy periods of time – sometimes an hour and even two hours. We are in a close physical environment where we are often constantly touching our client while we are performing our treatment. Our hands are not just delivering movements to achieve a treatment result – we are also communicating as one human being to another.

As Dr Weber mentions in his article on pages 40-42, a caring and gentle touch can alter our hormone levels, so our touch has great value, especially if it is directed with care and concern for the wellbeing of our clients. In today’s society people are often under-touched and this can affect them physically and emotionally. When you are touching your client you are also transmitting a part of your inner world and you need to take responsibility for that as well.

This is why ethics and integrity are so important, particularly in our profession.

INTEGRITY VS REPUTATION It is also vital to understand that integrity is not to be confused with reputation. Integrity is part of your character, whereas reputation is a reflection as to how others perceive you. In terms of their value consider the following:

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The circumstance amid which you live determines your reputation – the truth you believe determine your character Reputation is what you are supposed to be – character is what you are Reputation is the photograph – character is the face Reputation comes over one from without – character grows from within Your reputation is made in a moment – your character in built in a lifetime

Certainly, a good reputation is valuable, but a good reputation exists because it is a reflection of a person’s character. We should worry less about what others think and give greater attention to our inner character. As D.L. Moody wrote, “If I take care of my character, my reputation will take care of itself”.

If you struggle with maintaining your integrity, while doing all the right things on the outside and still getting it wrong, then something still needs to be changed on the inside. Here are a few questions that may help you nail down what needs attention:

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How well do I treat people from whom I can gain nothing?

Am I transparent with others?

Do I role-play based on the person(s) I’m with?

Am I the same person in the spotlight as I am when I am alone?

Do I have an unchanging standard on my moral decisions, or do my circumstances determine my choices?

Are my ethics my standard, or do I operate with situational ethics?

Do I make the right decisions, even when they have a personal cost attached to them?

! !

When things go wrong do I first examine my actions and motives, or do I instantly try to throw blame on others?

Do I go with what the crowd is saying, or do I examine the facts to determine the truth about a matter?

“BENCHMARKING” YOUR CONDUCT Benchmarking is the process of comparing the business processes and performance metrics, including cost, cycle time, productivity or quality to another that is widely considered to be an industry standard benchmark or best practice. Essentially, benchmarking provides a snapshot of the performance of your business and helps you understand where you are in relation to a particular standard.

In a similar way a Code of Ethics acts as on objective yardstick that defines conduct and practices. When we speak of standards we need a mechanism of comparison so that we can measure what is acceptable and what is not in terms of conduct. By adhering to such a code you are protecting your integrity.

Psychologists speak of an integrity blind spot in each of us, which is called “the self-serving bias”. For the sake of selfpreservation we often try to justify our position. Here are some examples: If someone gets a speeding ticket they were reckless and should not be on the road. If you get a speeding ticket the government is just revenue gathering, they should spend their time after the real offenders. It is against this kind of bias that a “Code of conduct” can ensure that you have a level of objectivity by which you can determine and measure your conduct.

YOU CAN’T ALWAYS PLEASE EVERYONE Just because you are a person of integrity doesn’t mean that you will always be popular. Leaders often encounter jealousy from others and competitiveness can sometimes lead to a few darts being thrown in your direction. However, in the end if you remain true to your principles the fruits of your achievements will speak for themselves and your integrity will ultimately bring you both personal fulfilment as well as the trust of others.

A good example of this is Abraham Lincoln. He was slandered and hated perhaps more intensely than any man ever to run for presidency in the US. He was publicly called just about every name imaginable by the press of the day, including a grotesque baboon, a third-rate country lawyer who once split rails and APJ 13

A Code of Ethics acts as on objective yardstick that defines conduct and practices. When we speak of standards we need a mechanism of comparison so that we can measure what is acceptable and what is not in terms of conduct.

By adhering to such a code you are protecting your integrity. now splits the Union, an ape, a buffoon and others. The Illinois State Register labelled him “the craftiest and most dishonest politician that ever disgraced an office…”. Severe and unjust criticism did not subside after Lincoln took the oath of office, nor did it come only from the South, it also came from the Congress and from factions of the Republican Party and initially from his own Cabinet. As President, Lincoln learnt that, no matter what he did, there were going to be people who would not be pleased. Through it all, Lincoln was a man of principle, and as Thomas Jefferson wisely said, “God grant that men of principles should be our principal men”.

In the end, you can bend your actions to conform to your principles, or you can bend your principles to conform to your actions. It’s a choice you have to make. If you want to be respected for your character and professionalism then you had better choose the path of integrity, because ultimately all other roads lead to insignificance and even failure.

A DAILY PURSUIT Start by paying attention to the little things as these will make or break you. Honesty is a habit you ingrain by doing the right thing all the time, day after day, week after week, year after year. If you constantly do what’s right in the little things you will less like wander off course in your ethics. As Zig Ziglar said, “When you do the things you have to do when you have to do them, the day will come when you can do the things you want to do when you want to do them”. Psychologist William James put it this way, “Everybody ought to do at least two things each day that they hate to do, just for the practice”.

The Swiss philosopher Henri Frederic put it in stronger terms by saying, “The person who has no inner compass is a slave of his surroundings.” ‘Slaves’ is the right term to describe people who lack integrity, because they often find themselves at the whim of their own and others’ changing desires. But with integrity you can experience freedom and are more likely to gain the trust of others by adding value to them. This is because a person of integrity influences others because he want to bring something to the table that will benefit them – not put them on the table to benefit himself.

The bottom line when it comes to integrity is that it allows others to trust us. And without trust, we have nothing. Trust is the single most important factor in our personal and professional life. It is the glue that holds people together and opens doors in both our business, as well as in our private relationships. Ultimately it is the foundation to our success.

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skin treatments

Understanding Peels and how they affect the skin

By Gay Wardle For over a decade peeling agents, whether chemical, mechanical or phototherapy, have been used in a clinical environment to perform therapeutic and cosmetic enhancement treatments. These can provide epidermal or dermal stimulation with an accumulative effect for skin rejuvenation and firming. This article, presented by Gay Wardle, summarises how these agents affect the skin and how we can correctly use them to ensure the best possible results in improving skin condition and appearance.

Under your old skin is a new and fresher layer waiting to emerge. At least that is the theory behind why we should be performing topical peeling agents and exfoliating procedures!

We want to renew the skin and encourage a fresh new layer of cells to emerge on the surface of the skin, making it look and feel years younger.

DAMAGE TO THE EPIDERMIS

We have been bombarded with products containing ingredients touted to scrub away the outer layers of dead skin cells.

However, understanding the science behind exfoliation is important for any skincare therapist as this will allow her to fully understand how these procedures impact the skin.

When the skin barrier defence is disturbed it can take up to 36 hours to return to its natural protective state. Although any acute inflammation during the procedure itself is beneficial to encourage new cell rejuvenation, we must be aware of the recovery time needed and protect the skin from any environmental insults on the newly exposed cells. If this protection is not undertaken, the chronic inflammatory process could continue for weeks following the actual procedure. This could have an adverse impact on the benefits we are trying to achieve on the skin. This is why correct follow-up advice must be given following a peeling procedure.

We know that the stratum corneum is the superficial strata of the epidermis and consists of several layers of corneocyte cells.

These corneocytes are interspersed with layers of three key lipids – cholesterol, ceramide and linoleic. The stratum corneum is the first line of the skin’s defence barrier maintaining the aqueous internal environment, as well as keeping out harmful toxins, allergens and microbes. Beyond the age of 65, the skin-cell maturation process slows up to 50 to 60 days for newer cells to reach the stratum corneum rather than 28 to 32 days in young adults, hence the reason why older skin can appear dull and waxy.

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There are two considerations why peeling procedures can harm rather than benefit the skin, and this is when the stratum corneum is removed with the vulnerable new cells exposed to environmental attack such as ultra-violet radiation and pollution.

THE COMPOSITION OF PEELS Substances typically used for peeling procedures are found in nature, such as alpha-hydroxy acids or glycolic acids (AHAs), and are associated with fruits, spoilt milk, or sugarcane. AHAs

are generally used for mild skin scars and plugs of material within dilated hair follicles that frequently contain bacteria (comedones).

Trichloroacetic acid and Jessner's peel (resorcinol, lactic acid and salicylic acid in ethanol) are stronger than AHA peels and cause destruction to the deeper layer of the skin. They are used to treat deep scars and skin growths, but also permit the underlying new skin to resurface.

The penetrating ability of the acid peel generally depends on the type or concentration of acid used.

ALPHA HYDROXY ACIDS

The hydroxy acids loosen the intercellular cement facilitating exfoliation of corneocytes, and also actually repair the horny layer at the level it is formed, rendering the keratin layer more compact.

Most important, it is the repaired horny layer that gives the skin its moist and normal appearance.

AHAs are organic carboxylic acids with a hydroxy group in the alpha position. Research has now identified what changes can be expected within the cell structure of the skin. Epidermal changes seen with AHA use include a decrease in corneocytes cohesion above the stratum granulosum, an increase in epidermal thickness, a reversal of basal cell atypia, a dispersal of melanin pigmentation, and a return to a more normal rete pattern.

Dermal changes include increases in papillary dermal thickness, acid mucopolysaccharide synthesis, fibroblast proliferation and collagen synthesis.38 Ultrastructural changes include an increased number of desmosomes, increased tonofilament aggregation, decreased clumping of tonofilaments within the cytoplasm, increased perinuclear localisation of tonofilaments, and the formation of microvilli. 39

Salicylic acid promotes exfoliation by dissolving intercellular cement and reducing intercorneocyte adhesion, 44 45 but it has no effect on the mitotic activity of the epidermis.46 As a salicylate, it contains anti-inflammatory properties via its effects on the arachadonic acid cascade.47 Salicylic acid’s unique comedolytic and anti-inflammatory properties make it a good agent for the treatment of comedonal and inflammatory acne vulgaris. It is also useful for the treatment of papular rosacea, photo-damage, fine lines and surface roughness, as well as for melasma with primarily epidermal deposits of melanin pigment.

AHAs are useful in the treatment of photo-aged and intrinsically aged skin by reducing fine lines and wrinkles and evening out pigmentation. Besides improving the appearance of photo-aged skin, they are useful in pigmentary disorders such as melasma, ephelides and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, commonly abbreviated as (PIH).

LACTIC ACID

For this reason AHAs are often incorporated into a post-op regimen for skin resurfacing to decrease the likelihood of developing PIH. They may also be used as adjunctive treatments prior to chemical peels to decrease the corneal layer, thereby allowing a more even penetration of active ingredients.

AHAs also improve acne by inducing exfoliation and enhancing the comedolytic action of other active ingredients such as retinoids. The multitudinous applications of AHAs provide a strong foundation for the treatment of an assortment of skin conditions.

Lactic Acid is a thorough exfoliator, removing the outer layers of thickened or damaged skin, leaving a smoother and healthier appearance. With prolonged use, Lactic Acid has been found to be beneficial in improving dry skin, treating age spots, improving oily and acne-prone skin, and decreasing fine lines and wrinkles.

Glycolic acid is the simplest AHA, which has dual functionality of alcohol and acid in a low molecular weight structure.

Because of its small molecular weight and size, it has a better capability to penetrate skin. AHA is used extensively in cosmetics. It is known that it diminishes the lines on the skin and make skin look younger by acting as a humectant to absorb moisture in air and by its exfoliating action breaking the bonds between dead skin cells.

BETA HYDROXY ACIDS Salicylic acid is a hydroxyl derivative of benzoic acid and represents a carboxylic acid attached to the aromatic alcohol phenol. 41 Although salicylic acid is not a beta-hydroxy acid by definition, it is referred to as a BHA in the cosmetic arena because it contains a hydroxy group in the beta position.42 It is a lipid soluble molecule, restricting its site of action to the superficial epidermis and follicles.42 This lipid solubility accounts for its ability to expel comedones from follicles.

Lactic is one of the Alpha Hydroxy acids (fruit acids). Fruit acids are non-toxic, naturally occurring substances, and are found in a variety of fruits, such as grapes, apples and sugar cane. Other fruit acids are Citric, Malic, Glycolic and Pyruvic Acids.

MANDALIC ACID An interesting newcomer to the AHAs is Mandelic Acid, which is a phenylglycolic acid and has an alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) which has a hydroxyl group on the carbon atom next to the acid group. If the hydroxy group is on the second carbon next to the acid group, it is called beta-hydroxy acid. Mandelic Acid (alpha-hydroxybenzeneacetic acid) is the smallest AHA among compounds, which are part of an aromatic group. It has an asymmetric carbon atom and thus has two chiral isomers – the dextro and the levo. The D and L-mandelic acid are enantiomers (also called enantiomorph, which means that each molecule is asymmetrical and has the mirror image of the other). These affect pharmaceutical activity. Its structure provides the bacteriostatic property and is used also as an antiseptic ingredient.

Mandelic acid and its derivatives are used to apply the dual activities as an antibacterial agent and as an anti-ageing agent (AHA activity) similar to glycolic acid. It is used as an intermediate for the synthesis of target molecules for other applications. Naturally occurring mandelic acid is found when amygdalin (a cyanogenetic glycoside found in many plants, including bitter almond, apricot, and wild cherry) is hydrolysis

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The second major fact or affecting efficacy is the vehicle or carrier, which determines the solubility of a hydroxy acid and the bioavailability though its pH, as discussed above. For watersoluble hydroxy acids, such as glycolic, lactic, malic, tartaric and citric acid, an oil-in-water emulsion is the vehicle of choice.

For more lipid soluble hydroxy acids, such as madelic, benzilic and salicylic acid, a water-in-oil formulation is the vehicle of choice. These are important considerations that will determine the effectiveness of an AHA’s formulation.

This is why as a therapist you need to be assured and request evidence from the supplier or manufacturer that the AHA product they are providing you has addressed these issues in their formulation to ensure that they perform to your expectations in terms of results.

SIDE-EFFECTS AND THEIR MANAGEMENT The most common side-effects of all topical hydroxy acid preparations are irritation and peeling of the skin. If excessive irritation does occur, you will need to decrease the frequency of application, or the strength of the formulation. Because this side-effect is very common, you should start with low-strength products and increase the strength of the formulation as tolerated. Clients may also note a tendency to sunburn more quickly than they did prior to starting the treatments. These clients should be instructed to always protect their skin with a broad-spectrum sunscreen and also minimise sun exposure.

MISCONCEPTIONS There are two main misconceptions involving the hydroxy acids. The first involves erroneous concerns for photo-allergic reactions. Because the stratum corneum will thin with hydroxy acid use, clients may notice a tendency to sunburn more quickly.

Clients should therefore be educated that this is not an allergic reaction, but rather an expected pharmacological effect. with hydrochloric acid, while amygdalin is broken down into glucose, benzaldehyde, and prussic acid (hydrogen cyanide) in the presence of sulfuric acid.

When combined with other AHA acids, Mandelic acid offers enhanced synergistic action that contributes to more rapid results in skin improvement for both problematic skin and antiageing benefits.

HYDROXY ACIDS AND WHAT AFFECTS THEIR PERFORMANCE The efficacy of a topical hydroxy acid is determined by two major factors – the bioavailable concentration and the vehicle used.37 The bioavailability of a hydroxy acid, or the faction that permeates the stratum corneum is the faction of free acid present in the formulation. The inherent pKa of the hydroxy acid as well as the pH of the formulation determine the amount of free acid in a formulation. If the pH of the formulation is less than the pKa of the acid, the free acid form predominates. If the pH of the formulation is greater than the pKa of the acid, the less- effective salt form predominates.

It is important to understand that although two products may contain equal percentages of a hydroxy acid, the bioavailability of that hydroxy acid may not be equal between the two products if the pH values of the carrier are different. For example, glycolic acid’s pKa is 3.83. A 10% glycolic acid product formulated at pH 3.0 has a bioavailability of 0.06 and is quite effective on the skin. On the other hand, a 10% glycolic acid product formulated at pH 5.0 has a bioavailability of 0.06 and is much less effective.

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The second misconception involves hydroxy acids being incorrectly included in the group of keratolytic agents. Because keratin proteins are not hydrolysed, it is more accurate to refer to this group of acids as exfoliants.48 The hydroxy acids loosen the intercellular cement facilitating exfoliation of corneocytes, and also actually repair the horny layer at the level it is formed, rendering the keratin layer more compact.

Most important, it is the repaired horny layer that gives the skin its moist and normal appearance.

CHEMICAL PEELS AND PRECAUTIONARY MEASURES Most chemical peels performed in salons and spas are superficial. The skin appears smoother, while reducing blotchiness and other minor imperfections. The peel is usually neutralised after a predetermined duration of time. However, if erythema or epidermolysis occurs the peel must be immediately neutralised with 10-15% bicarbonate soda and usually redness fades quickly.

Different peels have a different end point, or maximum time they can be left on the skin. For example: ! The end point for TCA peels is frosting, which is neutralised either with an agent or cold water. ! The end point for salicylic acid peels is pseudo-frost formed when the salicylic acid crystallises – generally 1-3 coats are applied until even frosting occurs.

Medium-depth peels are more invasive, suitable for clients looking for more dramatic results. These stronger peels have a

longer recovery rates and can take up to 10 days for the peeling to stop. The end result would be a reduction in fine wrinkles, smoothed-out irregularities and lightened pigmented lesions.

SKIN PEELING THROUGH LASER Laser peels have become very popular, with the procedures mostly performed in a medical environment under the supervision of a doctor. They are effectively cooking microscopic sections of the dermis, stimulating the fibroblasts, which produce collagen, elastin and glycosominoglycans.

Within four to six weeks, the skin should begin looking more plump, smoother, more even-coloured and showing fewer blood vessels. It is a relatively painless procedure that could have minor swelling lasting for up to a week.

Medium-depth laser peels work much the same way, with a longer recovery time, generally a few weeks. A few days after the peel the skin begins to slough off. Although painless it looks red, puffy and burnt. The skin can look severely sunburnt for some weeks.

While superficial peels are considered safe for all skin types up to phototype IV, medium-depth peels should be performed with great caution, especially on darker skin types. Deep peels are not recommended at all for darker skin types phototype V and VI.

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INFORMED CONSENT Pre-operative counselling and informed consent are absolutely vital when performing any of these procedures. A detailed consent form listing details about the procedure and possible complications should be viewed and explained to the client and signed by the client. The Consent Form should include, but not be limited to: ! Limitations of the treatment (if any) ! What to expect during and after the procedure ! What to do in the event of a reaction ! Post-treatment protective and precautionary measures ! How many treatments would be needed to achieve the desired end result ! Any potential side-effects When performing peels you need to have a thorough understanding of skin types and how to recognise different skin conditions as this is imperative, as is completing a comprehensive medical questionnaire and conducting a thorough consultation process when performing any of these procedures.

Providing your client with the best after-care service with a post-procedure program, including antioxidants to support the skin’s immunity and sunscreen to protect it from UVA and UVB exposure, is also very important. Similarly, the preparation leading up to performing the peel needs to be carefully planned.

Always prepare the skin well in advance before treating with any peeling agents with antioxidants, regardless as to whether it is a chemical, micro-dermabrasion or laser peel. This preparation will ensure that your client will receive the best result you can deliver.

SKIN ANALYSIS TRAINING If you believe you need to update your skills in skin analysis you will find training is available in the renowned Pastiche Method of Skin Analysis (see ad on page 24). Phone and request when a training session will be conducted in your area.

REFERENCE 37. Yu RJ and Van Scott EJ, Bioavailability of alpha hydroxy acids in topical formulations. Cosmetic Dermatol 9(6) 1996.

38. Kim S, Park J, Kim D, et al. Increased vivo collagen synthesis and in vitro cell proliferation effect of glycolic acid. Dermatol Surg 24, 205408, 1998.

39. Ditri CM, Griffin TD, Murphy GF, et al. Effects of alpha hydroxy acids on phtoaged skin: a pilot clinical histological, and ultrastructural study. J AM Acad Derm 34:187-95, 1996.

41. Kligman D and Kligman A. Salicylic acid as a peeling agent for the treatment of acne. Cos Derm Supp 10(9): 44-47, 1997.

42. Yu RJ, Van Scott J. Salicylic acid: Not a beta-hydroxy acid. Cos Derm 20,27-28, 1997.

44. David M and Mark R. Studies on effect of salicylic acid on normal skin Br J Dermatol 95;187-92, 1976.

45. Marks R, Davies M, and Cattell A. An explanation for the keratolytic effect of salicylic acid. J Invest Dermatol 64:283, 1975.

46. Robert DL, Marshall R, and Marks R. Detection of action of salicylic acid on the normal stratum corneum.

47. Weirch EJ, Longauer JK and Kirwood AH, Dermatopharmacology of salicylic acid. III. Topical anti-inflammatory effect of salicylic acid and other drugs in experimental animals. Dermatologica 152:87, 1976.

Gay Wardle is greatly respected as a trainer and educator in the aesthetic industry. She owns two multi-award-winning salons in Queensland and travels extensively throughout Australia training salons in IPL technologies and in Advanced Skin Analysis, being the Australian trainer for the renowned Pastiche Method of skin evaluation. Gay is currently pursuing a degree qualification in Dermal Sciences with the Victoria University. She trains others on her highly successful strategies that come from a strong understanding of what drives a salon to succeed and how to be known for exceptional results. Gay Wardle can be contacted on 0418 708 455.

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body treatments Cellulite is an unsightly condition characterised by uneven bumps under the skin that give it an “orange peel” look and is perhaps one of the most challenging conditions to treat in the salon. It is estimated that 95 per cent of women suffer from cellulite and many would do anything to find a solution. Unfortunately diet and exercise is not always sufficient to banish these unsightly bumps and this is a concern, especially now that summer is drawing close.

WHAT IS CELLULITE? In the subcutaneous layer, directly under the skin, there is a mesh-like or net-like fibrous connective tissue called septae. The septae forms a network of compartments in which fat cells are located. The function of the fibrous tissues is to keep the fat cells tightly packed, provide structural support for the skin, and to insulate the body.

In cellulite, the subcutaneous fat cells are pushed upwards, and the septae are pushed downwards. As a result, the fat cells are squeezed into small bulges that translate into the lumps and "orange peel" look of the skin.

Because of ageing, a woman's skin begins to become thinner, and her septae become more fibrous. This results is the worsening of the

Ultrasound breaks new ground in the fight against cellulite appearance of cellulite, and with increase in weight the trapped subcutaneous fat is pushed outwards by the underlying layers of fat, thus worsening the cellulite’s appearance and condition.

THE LATEST GENERATION OF CAVITATION SYSTEMS There are several technologies that offer some results to this stubborn conditions, but now there is a new, more advanced solution using Ultrasound at an amazing 40 KHz (traditionally only 3 MHz is used for aesthetic purposes). This technology also combines the penetrating capabilities of electroporation and a procedure called cavitation that is available through a device known as IMPACT manufactured by SORISA – one of the world’s most renowned manufacturers of medical and aesthetic devices.

IMPACT offers a real alternative to surgical lipsuction and the most effective solution for improving body shape and tone. This device was principally designed to reduce the volume of localised adipose tissue quickly and effectively through a special procedure that incorporates these technologies. By combining the effects of cavitation with electroporation that are further enhanced through the use of specific cosmetic gels IMPACT targets problematic areas with great success.

THE CAVITATION PHENOMENON Cavitation is the formation of bubbles inside a fluid, liquid or biological tissue caused by sonic vibrations. These bubbles may be stable, grow and collapse causing a mechanical action on the tissue that liberates the energy they have accumulated. The cavitation capability of ultrasound is related to its frequency,

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The technological foundation of IMPACT is the perfect combination between the use of ultrasound at 40KHz and electroporation to destroy the subcutaneous fat deposits in more difficult areas.

The combined action of ultrasound, electroporation and an active gel act to sculpt the body causing significant inch-loss, acting not only on the localised adipose tissue, but also on cellulite and skin flaccidity. which also determines the size of the bubbles. The aim of cavitation is to affect the fatty tissue to destroy adipose tissue, thus liberating the stored fat in a non-invasive way, reducing the volume of the area from the very first treatment with the IMPACT. For several years Sorisa has studied the phenomenon of cavitation with leading entities such as Oxford University and the Institute of Biomedical Engineering and the results have lead to the development of the IMPACT – a unit that incorporates the latest generation cavitation.

This technology successfully targets not only on the localised adipose tissue, but also cellulite and flaccidity. Treatment sessions using the IMPACT are divided into different parts: ! First, the action of the ultrasound is introduced, combined with the appropriate active gel, which is introduced with the electroporation currents ! After applying both techniques, which are carried out together, (the ultrasound and the electroporation are in the same probe); lymphatic drainage is performed using pressotherapy to ensure that impurities are mobilised through the lymphatic system. These combined procedures guarantee the success of the treatment.

ELECTROPORATION Electroporation is a technology that has been used in dermatology for the destruction of skin tumours. It consists of the use of mid-frequency currents to momentarily open the cells in the external layer of the skin and in the cell membrane. This activity enables the penetration of both ionic and non-ionic substances and larger molecules, allowing the incorporation of a greater number of active ingredients to be introduced into the skin. Electroporation is also known as messotherapy without needles.

The combined action of ultrasound, electroporation and an active gel, act to sculpt the body, causing significant inch-loss.

PROVEN CLINICAL RESULTS IMPACT has been designed under the supervision of the SORISA Medical Research Department and rigorous clinical trials have been conducted, which have demonstrated the efficacy of this technology in terms of the benefits and results that were proven on both men and women of various ages.

For further details contact Vogue Image Group on 1800 554 545 or 03 9821 0033 Email: info@vogueimage.com.au Or visit Web: www.sorisa.com

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In November 2004 the Advanced Diploma of Cosmetic Dermal Science was nationally accredited. April reports, “It was truly a joyous day to see our hard work come to fruition, with our course officially recognised within the Australian Training Framework”.

The first intake in 2005 was 16 beauty therapists. Each year, the enrolments increased, however, a class size of 20 was the maximum the college could undertake. Since the course’s accreditation many national and international beauty therapists and nurses contacted AACDS requesting the possibility of studying through distant learning. This was never in the business plan, although April was open to the idea of extending the learning opportunities nationally.

ONLINE EDUCATION

The driving force behind the

Australasian Academy of Cosmetic Dermal Science Many of those with in the beauty and cosmetic medical profession would have heard about the Australasian Academy of Cosmetic Dermal Science (AACDS). Established in 2004, AACDS provides the majority of accredited dermal therapy training in Australia. This is no mean feat as AACDS started off as a small registered training organisation teaching only a handful of students in Perth. How this college grew to become a finalist in the 2009 Nokia Business Innovation Award, the Commonwealth Bank Business Owner Award and the Marie Claire Young Business Women’s Award (Telstra Business Women’s Awards), is an inspirational story, especially to those hard-working mums juggling business and motherhood.

April Jorgensen is the driving force behind AACDS. Her vision started in 2000 when she commenced work as a beauty therapist in a newly established cosmetic medical practice in Perth, Western Australia. The doctor wanted to expand the practice to include peels, microdermabrasion and Intense Pulsed Light treatments. Soon she realised that her knowledge and skills were inadequate for the position and many hours of in-office training and self-guided study were required. April searched for a formal course to “fill the gaps”, but at the time there was nothing available locally. “The deciding factor to develop our own course was when I received one day’s training for IPL by a salesperson. I felt I could not provide my patients with the correct duty of care based on such minimal training” says April.

The course development process started with industry consultation. Course content, structure, duration and academic level were discussed with a range of cosmetic medical and nonmedical professionals. A particular focus was consultation with doctors in cosmetic medicine, as the main outcome of the course is to provide doctors with work-ready graduates.

Cosmetic doctors were asked the question, “What skills and knowledge do you need a beauty therapist or nurse to have within your practice?” This gave April the basis to develop a comprehensive and relevant course, valued by the cosmetic medical profession.

The process following industry consultation involved hundreds of hours of research in order to establish the course content. This process was aided by Curtin University, with the addition of units from Bachelor of Science (Health Sciences) to make up the Advanced Diploma of Cosmetic Dermal Science, providing graduates with further learning pathways into higher education courses. April’s university studies in biomedical science at the time also helped to contribute to course content, as studies in anatomy and physiology, nutrition, health communication, etc provided a sound knowledge base.

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And so the AACDS Online Education Program was born.

Changing the business model to online required recording audio for each lecture and designing a user-friendly student portal within the AACDS website. Within a month of going online, student enrolments doubled. Today, AACDS teaches over 200 students nationally and internationally.

During this exceptionally busy period of perfecting the new online business model and an influx of student enrolments, April discovered she was pregnant. Although this was good news, the timing was not ideal. April recalls, “I wondered how I was going to cope with running my business and looking after a baby. There were plenty of books about juggling motherhood and work when working for someone else, but nothing on a mother/business owner. I am sure there are many readers who can relate to this situation, as most skin clinic owners are women.” April had to now consider delegating tasks to others.

This was difficult, especially for a “self-confessed perfectionist”.

On June 4th, 2008 Jacob was born, and soon after April returned to part-time work juggling business and motherhood with ease.

In fact, she even found time to develop two new courses, the Vocational Graduate Certificate in Cosmetic Nursing, accredited in 2008, and the Vocational Graduate Certificate in Cosmeceutical Design and development, soon to be accredited. However, the Advanced Diploma of Cosmetic Dermal Science remains the benchmark qualification in dermal therapy training for beauty therapists in Australia, and is still the only course with recognition from many of the Australian cosmetic medical and surgical societies.

Specialising in online education has allowed many students to maintain their current work position and family commitments while undertaking further advanced studies.

April’s next vision is a registered charity to specifically direct funds to the Mukhtar Mai Women’s Welfare Organisation in Pakistan. This much-needed organisation provides free education, shelter, counselling and legal assistance to victims of rape, domestic violence, forced marriages and acid burnings.

AACDS has received pro bono legal assistance to assist them in the registration of the charity, although red tape slows the process significantly.

April is a finalist in the Telstra Business Women’s Awards for 2009. This is not only great news for AACDS, but also for the beauty and cosmetic medical profession. April’s wish is to be given the opportunity to use the awards to create more awareness of the practice of dermal therapies and what it means to be a qualified Dermal Therapist.

For information about AACDS courses visit www.aacds.edu.au or call 08 9382 4788.

IMPACT The latest generation of Cavitation System

The alternative to Lipo-Suction that Works at the Speed of Sound The Sorisa IMPACT is the latest advanced technology that offers impressive results on localised areas of fat, reduction of cellulite and skin flaccidity. Sorisa uses cutting edge ultrasound technology at an impressive 40KHz function delivered through cavitation technique and combined with electroporation to multiply the results of the procedure, redefine and sculpture the figure and diminish the appearance of cellulite and localised areas of fat.

With IMPACT you will gain true results:

! ! ! ! !

Destruction of fat cell membrane Improve cellular metabolism Release deposits from fat cell walls Effective removal of toxins and wastes Increase absorption of nutrients

Call VOGUE IMAGE GROUP now 1800 55 45 45

Australian Educator offers Advanced Skin Analysis course Training in the internationally acclaimed Pastiche Method® of skin analysis will soon be available to all Australian beauty therapists and skin treatment practitioners following the acquisition of an exclusive Australian license from International Dermal Science expert and skin guru, Florence Barrett-Hill.

Queensland industry icon Gay Wardle has been chosen as the Australian licensee/facilitator and will begin training the groundbreaking skin analysis method from early 2009. Gay, who is a well-respected award-winning therapist and educator, has formed a new company Education in Advanced Aesthetics to facilitate the training. “We hope to be able to offer training across the country on a regular basis, and reach as many therapists who want to up-skill as possible” said Gay. Originally trained in the Pastiche Method® of skin analysis five years ago, Gay has undertaken all of the post graduate training offered by Pastiche over the past five years. With this advanced knowledge she fully understands the importance of getting the initial analysis of the skin correct, as this is the basis of any successful treatment program and many skin conditions respond differently to treatments dependant on cause.

Gay Wardle

“For the modern therapist and skin treatment practitioner to be taken seriously and compete with the cosmetic medicine clinics, we have to offer more accurate and credible services. This means our diagnosis of conditions and consequent choice of appropriate solutions must be of greater accuracy and skill” The course Gay will be teaching will be The Pastiche Method® for the skin treatment professional, (Level one) and is unique in the respect that the technically advanced protocol is non-product aligned. It was developed by internationally recognised dermal science expert, Florence Barrett-Hill, and has been taught and practised internationally since 1994 with over five thousand graduates worldwide to date. In 2004, the core of the acclaimed course became a best selling book; with thousands of therapists, aestheticians, and skin care technicians in 16 countries and three languages taking their knowledge to the next level and spawning a new breed of skin care professionals. It is the core content of the book that will be presented in a three-day presentation consisting of theory and practical exercises.

Many leading icons in professional skin care recognise Florence (and the training programs she has developed) as one of the few people uniquely capable to take professional skin treatment therapy and non-invasive aesthetic medicine in to the realms of scientific skin care, with her expertise and educational services sought by organisations internationally.

Florence Barrett-Hill has known Gay personally for many years and is pleased that she will be presenting the training program to Australian therapists. “Gay and I share the common goal of raising the level of awareness and knowledge of the professional therapist that will allow them to become more valuable, successful and contented in their careers” said Florence. “As we develop new partnerships with talented and skilled educators such as Gay around the world, we will be able to offer more high quality training and influence the beauty industry to develop and grow to new levels of technical competence”

Gay will be teaching the level one version of the course which is the core of the 2004 book of the same name

Long time ASLMS and APAA member Gay is well experienced and skilled to offer the Pastiche course, with over 25 years of industry experience including clinic ownership, product distribution and the last four in technical education. With over a dozen industry related awards and a passion to help others grow, the sky is the limit for this enthusiastic, passionate skin care educator and practitioner.

For more information: EDUCATION IN ADVANCED AESTHETICS

0420 332 343 or Email: info@ozabart.info Www.advancedaesthetics.com.au

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www.pastiche.net.nz

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anti-ageing & wellness HELP FOR MENOPAUSE SYMPTOMS:

! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! !

Poor co-ordination Difficulty in making decisions Poor stamina Poor memory and concentration Confusion Fatigue and sluggishness Apathy or lethargy Hyperactivity Restlessness Acne, hives, rashes or dry skin Hair loss Hot flushes Excessive sweating Irregular or skipped heartbeat Food cravings Overweight Fluid retention Bloating Mood swings Depression Migraines Lack of Libido Lower back pain

The launch of The Menopause Relief Advisor Program Offering support to women by Susan Sheehan Having gone through her own challenges with menopausal symptoms, Sue Sheehan, founder and director of Healthy Hormones (a coaching service for women), has succeeded in overcoming the debilitating symptoms associated with this condition and once again found wellness and a renewed joy for living.

Her newfound zest and energy led her to conduct thorough research and develop an incredible program to support other women who wish to regain control over their life and experience freedom from the limitations that menopausal symptoms can bring. This highly successful program known as The Menopause Relief Advisor Program offers practical and simple to implement steps that work. The program has received huge support both from individual women as well as business and commercial enterprises that are concerned with productivity and quality of life for women.

Now the program has been launched through a new business model that allows healthcare providers and aesthetics clinics and spas to embark on the Healthy Hormone Affiliate Program and promote and provide this service to their patients and clients. In this article Sue Sheehan presents the concept and the fundamental principles on which this program is based.

What matters most is what YOU believe. And believe me when I say you can change anything, including menopause. Menopause is

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merely a word – a word given to describe the ageing process of a woman. “Changing the face of menopause” is achievable simply by looking at this time in a woman's life in an entirely unconventional way. Instead of focusing on mood swings, hot flushes, depression and anxiety, perhaps this process should be viewed as a wondrous time of self-awareness and selfdevelopment. In doing so, all women can be healthy, happy and totally fulfilled at that certain time in their life (around 40 years and over). More importantly, it can all be done naturally.

My research leads me to identify that many women aged 40+ are looking for answers as to why they feel fat, sad, depressed, bloated and alone. The fact is that despite whatever challenges women face at this age of their life, they all face the issue of ageing. For some this process is psychologically challenging. Many women find the battle confronting because they have never accepted anything less than being totally healthy and in control.

While genetics can play a major part in the overall health and wellness of a woman, the “power of thought” can be the catalyst that makes a difference. For a woman to age with style and dignity it is important for her to appreciate that thoughts of yesterday actually create the results of today. All women 40+ can be as strong and as vibrant as they want to be, because it all starts with how they think.

Morris Massey, a world-renowned sociologist, identified that most people are given their beliefs from the time they were born until approximately seven years of age. He referred to this as the "imprint stage" and says that it forms the beginning of what is stored deep within one's unconscious mind.

Let me share my own experience. My grandmother started what many referred to as the change of life at 36 years of age. I remember my mother telling me some horrific stories of how depressed, sick and unpleasant Nana was, even to the point that she was ‘sent away’ for six months. I grew up with the belief that by the time I got to that age, I too could possibly suffer like my grandmother. Then one day, when I was 36 and feeling a little (actually, a lot) ‘hormonal’, I took myself off to the doctor. I had convinced myself and started to convince him that like my grandmother, I was going through the change of life. My doctor laughed me out of the surgery. Unlike my grandmother, I didn't go through menopause until I was 44, and have often wondered why she went through it so early, while I, so much later. What it did show me was that I was convinced menopause was going to start at the same time as my grandmother, and I too, like her, would find it painful and difficult.

While thoughts create certain outcomes, it's rather difficult to imagine a single thought could balance out your hormones. In fact balance them to the point where you do not suffer hot flushes, night sweats, depression, bloating, cravings, emotional outbursts, mood swings, aches and pains, a lack of energy, low libido and concentration and a loss of strength, fitness and lean muscle mass.

The human body and its intricate complexity of systems, processors and functions makes you think that it is harder than what it really is to overcome these potential outcomes. Yet all it takes is a single thought to begin a transformation to balance, beauty and harmony.

By educating women in better ways of thinking about health, wellness and prosperity we have often helped save a family.

By embracing this new awareness you can develop a higher level of understanding and be vigilant in caring for the mental, physical, emotional and social health of patients or clients.

The Healthy Hormones Menopause Relief Advisor Program is a personal, one-on-one package to suit each woman’s needs. It provides motivation, information, resources and support within its framework and creates positive changes in a woman’s life.

The core fundamentals of the Menopause Relief Advisor Program are based on the Seven Ps to Anti-ageing. These include thought, exercise, nutrition, relaxation, toxin elimination, mindset and balance. And because Healthy Hormones guarantees results the following six points form part of the philosophy of these Seven Ps to Anti-ageing. ! Decide to take control ! Commit to being healthy and happy ! Have the discipline to take specific action ! Focus on you and what you truly want ! Surround yourself with people that are supportive and of a like mind ! Have fun and allow your child-like spirit to escape occasionally

THE MENOPAUSE RELIEF ADVISOR PROGRAM The Menopause Relief Advisor Program takes a holistic approach to ageing. It provides extremely effective natural methods to help this niche market change the way they think about ageing and puts in place new strategies that can create synergy between mind and body. The Program is designed to optimise your 40+ clients’ performance and assist them in developing new unconscious beliefs that are consistent and congruent with their desire to enjoy the ageing process and to be free of all the ill-health symptoms that are linked to the dreaded big “M”.

HOW THE PRINCIPLES WORK When you reprogram your mind with new empowering information, your mind automatically will go looking for what it needs. So when a woman replaces limiting beliefs that keep her sick, sad, fat, old and depressed with the belief of “I love myself” and “I am healthy, happy and totally fulfilled”, then that is exactly what she becomes. A positive belief in the mind of a women 40+ who is experiencing the unique challenges that are known only to her has the power to change her life. The amazing thing is that something as simple as a smile has the power to change the physiological structure of your hormones.

It is scientifically proven that once a woman reaches 40+ the physiological changes that take place affect her physical, mental and emotional function. This can affect every woman 40+. The symptoms of ill-health vary, and of course one’s perception of illhealth is dependent on the individual. Values, beliefs and attitudes are challenged and must be addressed. Women need to understand what they did in their 20s and 30s is quite different to what can be done in their 40s, but this must not be viewed as a negative or a restriction. Simply viewed from a different mindset.

Let’s change the face of menopause so women everywhere can embrace this wonderful period of their life with enthusiasm and celebrate the freedom of being a woman 40+. The Healthy Hormones programs provide all that a woman 40+ needs to age gracefully, and the success of the program is due to the fact that the beauty within is defined by the wisdom that can only belong to a woman 40+.

It is important for this niche market to be immersed in the proper environment so the correct information is received. Furthermore, the ability to absorb and maintain the information is essential if good health and wellness is to be sustained. Reprogramming negative beliefs and limiting decision, is where we need to start.

INTRODUCING THE PROGRAM IN YOUR BUSINESS With creative marketing in place you can extend your services to provide this valuable anti-ageing support program to women who could benefit from it through the Healthy Hormones Affiliate Program. Furthermore, it can now be made available through your salon or clinic. Women can be nurtured, while the education offered through this program will demonstrate to them how they can support their body’s autogenetic and self-healing processes by removing causes of nutritional deficiencies, sedentary lifestyles, hormonal imbalances and negative belief barriers.

If you would like to introduce the Healthy Hormones Affiliate Program in your salon or clinic, or book Sue for a seminar, phone Sue Sheehan on 07 5598 3352 or visit www.menopausereliefadvisor.com and click on “Become an Affiliate Member” and follow the prompts.

Susan’s Sheehan career has span 20 years in the health and wellness industry and she is the Founder of Healthy Hormones. A motivational speaker, and a Mind and Body Performance Coach, Susan is a registered Personal Trainer, a Lifestyle Coach, she has studied Pilates for 12 years and as a certified NLP, NRP, CIP and Hypnosis practitioner Susan combines her knowledge and experience to transform the performance of women 40+. She has spent considerable time in the United States both personally and professionally furthering her studies in coaching, and speaking and is currently studying an advanced diploma in nutrition. You can contact Susan on 0410 612 231.

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Do you want to grow your business and increase your income simply by referrals?

Then join the Healthy Hormones AFFILIATE PROGRAM for the benefit of your clients and your business.

WHY YOU SHOULD JOIN: ! No joining fee ! Increase your cashflow simply by referring ! Add an additional valuable service to your business ! Creating a healthy women’s network to increase your business opportunities

Receive regular income for referring – it’s that simple!

THE AFFILIATE PROGRAM is a commercial one where Affiliates are rewarded financialyl for every person referred to Healthy Hormones who signs up to the life-changing Menopause Relief Advisor Program or the Inspirational Workshop Retreat.

Why not extend your service to offer this valuable program to women over 40+ who could benefit from anti-ageing strategies and improve their quality of life.

Together, everyone achieves more.

How to join the Affiliate Program?

Go directly to www.healthyhormones.com.au, click on “Become an Affiliate” and follow the prompts.

Additional information is available on the web site or call Ian on 0407 484 167.

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machine treatments

MICRODERMABRASON Getting the most out of your procedure

by Mariza Nuttall By removing accumulated dead epidermal cells it precipitates new cell migration, while creating a more receptive surface for efficacious penetration of active ingredients to a targeted skin level for enhanced cell renewal and skin regeneration.

There are currently two categories of equipment that deliver this procedure. One is designed to be used by qualified beauty therapists, and the other, which allows a deeper exfoliation procedure, is designed to be used by the medical profession only. However, both work on the same principles – a fine jet of inert crystals is blown through a tube on to the skin, creating an exfoliating action that strips away dead cells on the epidermis.

Once the crystals hit the skin they are sucked up via a tube through the other side of the device to avoid contamination.

The process eases fine lines and wrinkles and evens out skin texture. It is also highly effective on blackheads, enlarged pores, surgical scars, minor acne scars and narrow stretchmarks. The results are a fresher, smoother-looking skin. The major difference between the two units is that the cosmetic physician unit has a footswitch that enables the doctor to increase the power of the unit up to four times for faster delivery of the crystals to the deeper layer of the skin, the dermis, for medical dermabrasion.

Since it was introduced several years ago as an aesthetic technology, Microdermabrasion has become so popular that it is now consider as an essential staple part of most facial treatment menus.

There are also currently home-kits for consumer use of “microdermabrasion� exfoliation. However, it is important to stress to your clients the dual benefits of a salon procedure. Not only does the device allow the aluminium oxide crystals to exfoliate the skin at a controlled level, but the blasting process delivered through the device also helps stimulate cell renewal and collagen integrity.

The simplest way to describe what microdermabrasion does for the skin is its ability to effectively blast epidermal skin layers, enabling the skin to naturally rebuild itself. Microdermabrasion offers high and precise exfoliation of the skin where the operator can control the depth of skin removal, layer by layer.

As with all technologies, the best possible results can only be achieved if precise protocols and procedures are followed. In this article Mariza Nuttall is presenting a step-by-step procedure for the best possible skin-improvement results using this technology.

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CORRECT MICRODERMABRASION Microdermabrasion is a non-invasive skin-resurfacing procedure that employs an abrasive substance (aluminium oxide) that gently exfoliates the uppermost layers of the skin. The abrasion gently removes dead skin cells and skin debris, also stimulating cell renewal, detoxification and the synthesis of collagen and elastin.

THE PREPARATION PROTOCOLS Step 1: First, make sure the client profile card is correctly filled in and signed.

Make sure the skin is thoroughly cleansed removing any oil or debris from the skin. Disposable gloves should be worn to ensure the grease-free environment is maintained.

Step 2: Select an exfoliating mask that will thoroughly remove and digest dead skin cells. For thicker, congested, clogged or acne skin types it is recommended that you use an AHA/BHA Mask that you will apply to these areas only, avoiding the eye area.

This will soften the skin’s surface, removing superficial debris and enabling the crystals to perform to their maximum.

Steps 3-5: Apply the mask to the area you will be treating and allow it to soften the skin. Remove the mask. Attach your disposable plastic tip on the handpiece.

MICRODERMABRASION PROCEDURE Step 6: Once you carefully examine the skin type and condition, as well as any abnormalities, you then select the correct treatment level that will best suit that skin. This will also be determined by the number of preceding treatments, the results achieved, as well as any feedback that the client will indicate as to their tolerance level.

First, start working on one half of the face. All movements should be done towards the lymph nodes, so that the supporting structure of the skin is taken into consideration and the movements are also assisting the drainage of any toxins through the lymph nodes. Carry out your movements so that they overlap and don’t push the wand into the skin.

This will ensure that there is no streaking left on the client’s skin. Make sure that you use a clean tip for each treatment. If you use metal heads or diamond heads ensure that they have been previously

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sterilised in an autoclave to avoid any cross-contamination. Starting on the forehead, move the wand across the forehead towards the temple, supporting the skin with each stroke. This area has less muscle padding so keep the suction low so it is not painful to the client.

Steps 7-9: Do upward strokes from the jawline to the temporalis. While supporting the skin, conduct sidestrokes across the chin pulling towards the ears.

Then perform sidestrokes across the top lip pulling towards the ears.

NECK Step 10: Follow with long upward strokes towards the back of the ear lobe.

EYES Step 11: Start with movements from the corner of the orbicularis oculi towards the temple.

Caution: The machine should be turned down to the lowest to work the eye and brow areas. The skin around the eye area is very delicate therefore it should always be fully supported and never stretched.

NOSE Step 12: Do movements up the side of the nose and ensure you also get into the corner of the nose. All steps should be now repeated on the other side of the face.

The microdermabrasion treatment should take you about 10 - 15 minutes to complete. Too much exfoliation will cause incorrect results and could hurt your client. Some areas may need additional work i.e. T-zone, open pores,

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As with all technologies, the best possible results can only be achieved if precise protocols and procedures are followed. In this article Mariza Nuttall is presenting a step-by-step procedure for the best possible skin improvement results using this technology. acne scaring, acne, pigmentation, etc. These areas may be reworked at higher or lower levels depending on the desired outcome, skin type, condition, etc.

OXYGENATE THE SKIN Step 13: This should be carried out after microdermabrasion because the acid mantle has been disturbed, dead skins cells have been exfoliated and therefore a greater result can be achieved.

Step 14: Select a gel-textured water-soluble soothing mask to apply to the area to help to reduce the level of post-treatment redness.

Steps 15-16: Massage a hydrating mask on the skin for approximately five minutes. Remove the mask.

Step 17: Select a hydrating cream with a good sun-protection factor to apply to the treated area and to finish the treatment.

Stress to the client the importance of using sun-protection cream, and to take extra care when exposed to the sun to ensure that their skin is fully protected with a sunblock above what they would normally do in the course of an average day.

Mariza Nuttall is a qualified aesthetician and a CIDESCO diplomat since 1995 and has also undertaken extensive studies in Paris. She obtained her Confederation of International Beauty Therapy and Cosmetology in London.

Highly committed to education, Mariza was a very active member of the CIDESCO Section in South Africa and has been a guest speaker in numerous expos and aesthetic conferences both here and internationally.

Mariza’s talents and multiskilling capabilities have led to her designing several spas and salons, both here and overseas. She is currently the principal and managing director of Good Looking Beauty, a highly successful product distribution company, which has been established in Australia for six years. A successful businesswoman, she has strong global ties with companies in Italy, France, Greece the US and South Africa. Mariza is highly committed to high standards of training, which she delivers not only for her own clients, but also for numerous colleges and TAFE institutions. Mariza Nuttall can be contacted on 02 9894 8068 or by visiting www.goodlookingbeauty.com.au

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salon business

Setting up your own Salon – How to get it right from the start Caroline Nelson The dream of almost every graduating aesthetician is to one day have their own salon. You may have worked in the industry for several years and gained valuable experience, and now the next logical step for you is to start your own salon. Or perhaps you are new to salon ownership – whatever the case, this article may provide the information you need to get it right from the beginning.

Indeed, if you do, you will no doubt save money, headaches, and possibly the heartache of business failure.

Operating a business that just pays its way and limps along from one week to the next is unfortunately where many salon owners often find themselves. In many case this could have been avoided by good planning and realising that one person cannot have all the answers, knowledge, or expertise. By seeking the help, support and advice of other business professionals such as a lawyer, accountant and a beauty industry-specific business coach, these businesses could have grown and prospered.

But before we go any further let’s see if you have the qualities and commitment necessary for operating a successful aesthetic business.

Remember, just because you are an excellent aesthetician does not necessarily mean you have the ability to be an excellent business manager. While it is essential that you have a passion for aesthetics and that you envision your new business being committed to providing customers with a high-quality service, it’s not all that you require. As a business owner you will also need to establish staffing procedures and policies, create marketing opportunities, supervise day-to-day operations, monitor the finances, and attend to all your legal business responsibilities.

So owning your own business is not a piece of cake. It is in fact hard work, so before you go ahead you will need to make sure you are prepared for the long haul, because a successful business is not made overnight.

As one of the leading industry-specific business coaches in Australia I am often called in by a stressed business owner when the business is starting to fail. And while I can generally turn the business around and into profit, I would have loved the opportunity to be in at the commencement of the business, so that many of the pitfalls and stresses could have been avoided, while saving them many thousands of dollars. In this article I will endeavour to offer the advice that could save you the stress of a failed business. But for a more in-depth support please contact me – details are at the end of the article.

THE BUSINESS PLAN – IF YOU PLAN TO SUCCEED

Having said all that, there are also unlimited opportunities to make money and a stable financial future for yourself and your family when you go into business. How successful the business will be and just how much money you make largely depends on the initial planning and the amount of time and effort you put into your enterprise. So don’t be fooled that it will be easy to succeed, because the beauty business is a very competitive one.

First, you will need to create a Business Plan. A well-prepared business plan is essential throughout the life of your business, not just before you start. You will need it later on to guide your focus, to prepare for expanding the business, or to help implement new directions, technologies or products. Before you start your business, a business plan will ensure that the business is feasible and that there is a well-laid-out blueprint for action. The business plan will cover critical business decisions made at the start, for example, organisational structure, partners, initial debt, etc. It will be geared to the initial funding or capital requirements from a bank or investor.

Those who do not have a good business plan and the correct strategies in place, along with a strong desire to be successful, will often fail or, at best, have a business that just pays its way.

If you require outside funding from a bank, the business plan will need to be very in-depth, and it is suggested that you get assistance from your accountant. If you wish to set up shop in a shopping

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centre you will often find that they will require you to present your Business Plan so they can see if your business will be viable and can succeed through the term of the lease. Also, once you are in the business, a business plan will help you track how you’re going.

Business planning is an ongoing business activity – you should regularly review and revise the plan throughout the life of your business. And don’t forget that part of your business plan is the marketing plan.

THE MARKETING PLAN This is a gutsy part of the business plan covering marketing and promotions, selling strategies, pricing and results. The ‘link’ between your marketing plan and the resulting business plan is vital. Marketing attracts and retains the customers and ultimately ‘drives’ the performance of the business.

You can use the ‘five Ps of marketing’ as a structure to discuss your marketing plans: ! the right Product (services and retail) ! the right Price ! the right Place (location) ! the right People (staff, business experts and customers) ! The right Promotional strategy

MARKETING STRATEGIES Your marketing strategy involves selecting a target market, developing an appropriate mix for each and allocating the resources necessary to achieve its goals. It is important to understand that the practicality of your business plan is determined to a large degree by how realistic the sales forecast and the supporting marketing strategy are.

Four variables will shape your marketing strategies to meet the customer needs: ! product features ! quality of product ! level of service to the customer ! price – and this must be profitable to the business You will also need to decide on the branding of your business – how do you want your business projected to the general public?

How you position your brand will influence the services you hope to provide, and this in turn will dictate the type of equipment or products stocked. A cautionary note here – I often get called into help a failing business that has not successfully branded and their potential customers are receiving mixed messages. This is not good for business. An example of this would be a salon that projects itself as very clinical offering high tech services, but stocks a skincare range that cannot support the services. This salon would have been better stocked with cosmeceuticals.

Alternatively, a salon that concentrates on delivering the more traditional pampering services might be best to stock an aromatherapy or organic product line. The services and products you stock must also be suited to the demographics of the trade area.

Choosing the right location to start your new salon can also be a big determining factor to its success. The major points to consider are, what particular area or suburb do you want to locate your business, and are there any specific sites within that area that would suit you?

Then ask yourself, is the population base large enough to support your business? Are the demographics compatible with the market you wish to attract? What is the competition like in the area? Is the available site the right size for your business – large enough for growth, but not too large that you are paying an unnecessarily high rent?

The physical layout of the business is also extremely important and must be practical, but aesthetically pleasing. When choosing a site, pay particular attention to the shape of the premises, as unusualshaped premises can be harder and more costly to fit out. In addition, they often have hard-to-use areas and thus, wasted space.

And where are the plumbing and electrical outlets situated? By keeping all plumbing within a certain area you will save valuable dollars. There are many savings to be made in the fit-out, so make sure your draftsperson and builder are very aware of your budget.

The amount of money to set up a salon will depend on the quality of the salon, the fixtures and fittings you would like to project this quality, the equipment you need and your stock inventory.

The amount of money your business will need to generate to break even and then to make a profit will largely depend on your variable expenses, for example, wages, supplies, cost of goods and your fixed expenses like rent, utilities, insurance, etc. You will need to know how many services and/or retail sales you need and if they are achievable. If it doesn’t stack up than you will have to decide if the idea of opening your own salon is feasible, or could you adjust your plans and make it more feasible. And any decision you make must be based on the goals you have for your intended business.

There are also numerous operational issues you will need to decide on. For instance, are you going to employ people and, if so, will they be employed as casual, part-time or full-time employees? You may even decide on contract staff. What are the qualifications and qualities you desire of your employees? And will you be offering a good staff training program and introducing an effective system of incentives so you can recruit and retain valuable staff?

Once you have a team of employees you will need to furnish them with the tools to perform at the high standard you want your customers to receive. This will require you to provide them with all the necessary equipment and products to successful perform the services. It also means that you will need to provide them with a formal salon staff policies and procedures manual so they are able to deliver a high standard each and every time a customer receives a service in your salon. Your salon staff policies and procedure manual is the “Blueprint” necessary to enable your team to provide a consistent level of service that will lift it above the competition.

Quality Customer Service is essential through the life of your business, but never more so than in the early stages of establishing your business. It is important that both you and your staff go the extra mile and happily meet the customers’ needs, wants and desires in their aesthetic services and home-care requirements. If this is done well, you will be ahead in establishing a strong and loyal customer base.

If you decide after taking everything into consideration that you have the necessary passion, drive, commitment and the start-up money, then I would suggest that you may be an ideal candidate for operating your own salon. But one final word before you start looking for the perfect location, go and do a business management course at your local TAFE or through your State’s Small Business Resource Centre who provide numerous informative seminars and workshops. Read everything you can and consider employing an industry-specific business coach to guide you through the minefield of starting up in what can only be described as a very competitive industry.

In the next issue I will be discussing Savvy Marketing to build your Beauty Business.

Caroline Nelson is an industry-specific business and marketing consultant. She specialises in helping Australian and New Zealand salon and spa owners to build more profitable businesses.

With close to 40 years of hands-on beauty industry experience she has supported many new salon owners, from concept through to successful opening day and beyond, into building a profitable business. If you need Caroline’s help she can be contacted on 0410 600 440 or email her on nbeauty@bigpond.net.au or check out her website www.nelsonbeautybusinessmanagement.com

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treatment devices comply with for optical radiation hazard and manufacturers should rely upon the IEC TR 60825-9 and the International Committee on Non-Ionizing Radiation Protection (ICNIRP) Guidelines on Limits of Exposure to Broad-band Incoherent Optical Radiation.

So far, I have found that only the iPulse home-use hair-removal IPL has been tested under these international standards7.

Home-Use Laser & IPL Devices and their performance capabilities Godfrey Town Laser Protection Adviser, Haywards Heath, UK As light-based technologies gain media exposure as well as scientific validation that they can offer credible results in skin rejuvenation and hair reduction, so we are seeing the introduction of smaller, take-home devices entering the market. Several companies are manufacturing these technologies for home use. But are they credible and how do they compare with the professional devices? Furthermore, can they be utilised as a cost-effective option for salon use? Godfrey Town is an international authority in light-based technologies and a laser protection adviser both in the UK and a regular lecturer here in Australia. In this article he offers some insight on these new devices that are entering the market.

Home-use light-based treatments by consumers have been documented as far back as 20031,2 and this year has seen the launch in Europe through catalogue shopping, on the high street and online of a number of home-use devices for hair removal and skin rejuvenation. These include major consumer brands such as Philips SatinLux, Boots Smooth Skin by IPulse and Remington iLight.

Home-use hair-removal devices from less well-known manufacturers have already been granted FDA-clearance in the USA for over-the-counter sale to consumers (Spectragenics, Tria and Home Skinovations, Silk’n). The Shave Shop started selling the Silk’n home-use IPL last year in Australia and September saw the launch through TVSN of a home-use IPL that has sold in thousands in the UK during the past few months.

Several safety and efficacy studies have also appeared in international peer-reviewed journals confirming meaningful hairreduction figures and relatively few side-effects, but still inferior to some professionally delivered treatments. While all of these studies were medically supervised rather than performed at home, it is clear that permanent hair-reduction results are acceptable3,4, 5, 6.

SAFETY CONSIDERATIONS Safety is a major consideration for the consumer and the literature indicates that ocular safety systems incorporated by reputable manufacturers position home-use lasers as Class I devices. Homeuse IPL devices have no specific international safety standard to

APJ 36

Roosen et al found in an in vitro study that one low-fluence IPL caused mild trauma to the hair shaft, interrupting the hair cycle and inducing temporary hair loss8. A preliminary histology study with the iPulse home-use IPL by Trelles confirms that in several Skin Type II subjects, primary thermal effects were evident in the hair shaft due to thermal absorption, including an immediate inflammatory infiltration reaction of the perifolliculum together with changes in hair architecture and detachment from the skin.

Further histological studies are needed to establish the extent of hair damage in these home-use devices.

As the cost of technology has come down, recent years have seen an expansion in North America and most European countries in the use of intense pulsed light devices by non-medically qualified therapist operators outside of the medical clinic, in spas and salons. Given the huge consumer demand for cosmetic hair removal, it is perhaps not surprising that companies are eager to offer new technology products to the general public.

HOW DO THESE DEVICES AFFECT YOU? While all these devices are continuing to enter the market how will they impact the professional salon practitioners and their clients?

First, we need to recognise the home-use products are already here and growing in number and popularity, whether we want it or not.

Some of them are ineffective and some may not be safe and we must be informed about the devices themselves and be ready to ‘pick up the pieces’ when home-use treatments go wrong. We should also explore opportunities to use proven home-use devices alongside our own professional treatments e.g. for on-going homecare top-up treatments as part of a total professional treatment regimen.

Second, home-use devices are not suitable for all skin types (usually excluding Skin Types V-VI) and FDA clearances do not so far allow use on the face and neck. These home-use devices also require significantly more treatments than is commonplace in the clinic environment where higher fluences, larger spot sizes and faster repetition rates permit a speedier and more efficient treatment with the reassurance of professional counselling and support.

Third, many consumers will be uncertain about issues of safety, suitability for use with underlying medical conditions (e.g. diabetes, epilepsy, hormonal conditions, etc) and contra-indicated medication.

Finally, many home-use users will still require professional treatments for difficult body areas and conditions not treatable at

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home such as intimate body areas, backs, pseudo-folliculitis barbae, polycystic ovaries and the treatment of acne, benign pigmented and vascular lesions.

STAY INFORMED As experts in this field we must maintain our professional position and be ready to offer paid-for consultation support to cosmetic clients seeking help in resolving any issues related to selftreatments or offering in-salon treatments where home-use is unsuitable. In the absence of adequate international standards we would do well to scrutinise the available published clinical studies and compare claims made by manufacturers with objective industry reports measuring the parameters of these devices9.

As the aesthetic industry has seen with previous examples of homeuse products, home waxing kits and home electrolysis has had no impact on professional services. Another example is the recent popularising of home teeth-whitening among consumers, which has driven the demand for professional treatments in almost every dental practice. With the recent increased publicity for home-use laser and IPL devices and the consequential raising of consumer understanding and awareness, it is reasonable to suppose that the same may already be true of driving demand for professional hairremoval and skin-rejuvenation treatments.

REFERENCES: 1. Rohrer TE, Chatrath V, Yamauchi P, et al. Can patients treat themselves with a smaller novel, light based hair removal system? Laser Surg Med 2003; 33: 2529.

2. Hodson DS. Current and Future Trends in Home Laser Devices Semin Cutan Med Surg 2008;27: 292-300.

3. Wheeland RG. Consumer use of a battery-powered, handheld, portable diode laser (810nm) for hair removal: a safety, efficacy and ease-of-use study. Laser Surg Med. 2007;39: 476–493.

4. Alster TS, Tanzi EL. Effect of a novel, low-energy, pulsed-light device for home-use hair removal. Dermatol Surg 2009;35: 483–489.

5. Mulholland, RS. Silk'n - A novel device using Home Pulsed Light™ for hair removal at home. J Cosmetic Laser Therapy 2009;11:2: 106-109.

6. Emerson R, Town G. Hair removal with a novel, low fluence, home-use intense pulsed light device: Preliminary Results. J Cosmetic Laser Therapy 2009; Vol. 11:2: 98-105.

7. Eadie E, Miller P, Goodman T, Moseley H, Assessment of the Optical Radiation Hazard From a Home-Use Intense Pulsed Light (IPL) Source. Laser Surg Med 2009;40: 520–528.

8. Roosen G, Westgate G, Philpott M, Berretty P, Nuijs T, Bjerring P. Temporary Hair Removal by Low Fluence Photoepilation: Histological Study on Biopsies and Cultured Human Hair Follicles. Laser Surg Med 2008;40: 520–528.

9. Town G, Ash C. Measurement of Home Use Laser and Intense Pulsed Light Systems for Hair Removal: Preliminary Report. J Cosmetic Laser Therapy 2009;11: 157–168.

Godfrey Town is a clinical technologist specialising in applications, training users of light-based technology for hair removal, facial skin rejuvenation, acne management and the treatment of benign pigmented and vascular conditions. Godfrey runs international workshops and training courses for private practices, therapists and distributor sales teams. He has presented at seminars and authored comprehensive laser hair removal and skin rejuvenation training manuals and book chapters and directly assisted in staff training and commissioning of numerous laser skincare clinics. He is a regular invited speaker at international aesthetic laser meetings, has written numerous articles on laser and IPL use and published scientific and clinical papers in internationally recognised peer-reviewed journals. For five years, he was an owner-manager of a successful UK private laser & IPL clinic. His LPA consultancy supports over 300 private medical practices, clinics and spas using more than 350 laser and pulsed light devices for whom he also provides applications and accredited ‘core of knowledge’ training, clinical protocol, regulatory and safety procedure support.

Currently he is an RPA2000 Certificated Laser Protection Adviser (LPA), Registered Clinical Technologist (IPEM, UK) Consultancy Agreements: CyDen Ltd., Swansea, UK; Unilever, Trumball, USA; Ophir, Jerusalem, Israel, AngioDynamics, Ely, UK. To contact Godfrey Town visit: www.gcghealthcare.co.uk Email: godfreytown@mac.com Ph: +44-1444484911

APJ 37

business

Introducing IPL technology into your business What the experts have to say So you have decided to invest in an IPL device and introduce this technology into your business. No doubt it will be one of the most serious investments you have ever made, as compared to other devices this is one that will allow you to step up your treatments to a higher level.

However, are you equipped to ensure that you maximise the benefits to you and your business on all fronts?

To help you determine this we have approached three experts to offer their advice on what you should ensure you have in place in order to optimise your benefits.

The three levels you should examine are:

TAXATION/GOVERNMENT INCENTIVE As a financial investment what measures have you taken to ensure you gain the most in terms of taxation requirements and potential government incentive relief for such an investment?

MARKETING How do you plan to introduce this device to your existing clients as well as draw new clients to your business?

TRAINING/COMPLIANCE How are you investing in your training to ensure that you meet with the necessary qualifications and training standards so that you can deliver not only safe, but also effective treatment outcomes that will meet with your clients’ expectations?

MARKETING YOUR IPL PROMOTIONS How to target new and old clients The best ways to promote your new IPL service is to put on a Special Launch Night.

Ask all your VIP clients and get them to bring a friend. In this way your business will be exposed to twice as many potential new VIPs. And to get your appointment book packed have a “call-toaction” special purchase only on the night deal. Remember, it’s a lot easy to get the booking while everyone is excited and having fun. Make sure you let everyone know you now do IPL. Send out flyers via a letterbox drop and put posters up outside and inside your salon.

Announce it on your website and get the buzz happening by “the word-of-mouth” social network of Face Book and Twitter.

Email and SMS your data contact list as well. Business Coach Caroline Nelson, Director of Nelson Beauty Business ph: 0410 600 440.

APJ 38

QUALIFICATIONS AND TRAINING The role of training and the importance of qualifications Soon, we as an industry will be facing new legislation regarding the use of lasers and Pulsed Light Systems in t h e B e a u t y I n d u s t r y.

Considering the damage these devices can cause in the hands of an untrained operator, it is surprising that we are still waiting for legislation to be put in place.

When it comes to training it is important that you differentiate two separate requirements. Suppliers of lasers and pulsed light systems are responsible for teaching you the use of their equipment. Everybody needs to understand how machines work, how to switch them on, what settings to use and how to maintain the device in order to operate safely.

These machines are very powerful and can cause a lot of damage if used inappropriately. It is so important to understand various skin and hair conditions in order to select the correct settings for client. Client consultation and gaining informed consent prior to a test patch are essential parts of a successful treatment. Not all skin types and skin conditions are suitable for treatment. As legislation is currently being finalised it is important to also gain Government Approved training and qualifications as this will definitely benefit you to meet with the new requirements. Furthermore, the value of objective qualification in Laser and Pulsed Light treatments will allow you to give your clients not only safe, but effective treatment results that will support your business growth and your investment in such a technology. Extensive industry experience is essential for educators so they can pass on the knowledge that Ilse allows therapists to make educated decisions.

Taumberger Principal of Fuss Beauty College Ph: 02 9326 2211Email: ilse@fuss.com.au

FINANCIAL IMPLICATIONS Small Business Tax Break Small business owners should consul t their accountant about the additional tax deduction that was made available for the purchase of eligible assets, commonly referred to as a tax break/ investment allowance, that was announced by the Federal Government on 12th December 2008 and which received Royal Assent on 22 May 2009.

The tax break provides an additional 50% allowable tax deduction for eligible small business taxpayers (basically those with an annual turnover of less than $2 million) who invest in: 1. Certain new depreciating assets, including motor vehicles used in the business 2. The improvement of existing depreciating assets, all of which need to meet the minimum investment threshold of $1,000 for small business and $10,000 for all other businesses.

The 50% allowable deduction will be available for small business taxpayers with eligible depreciating assets that are ordered between 13 December, 2008 and 31st December, 2009 and used or installed ready for use in a business operating in Australia before 31st December, 2010.

Secondhand assets will not qualify for the tax break except where such an asset has only been used for reasonable testing and trialling such, as a demonstrator motor vehicle.

Some of the specific exclusions include land and buildings, trading stock, intangible assets and capital works expenditure to which Division 43 applies.

The investment allowance/tax break deduction is in addition to the capital allowance or depreciation deductions, which may be available in respect of the eligible asset, in this case the IPL device.

Here is an example of how it works: A small business owner purchases and installs a depreciating asset on 31st May, 2009 at a cost of $10,000. The asset will be written off over five years.

The tax deductions available to that owner for the year ended 30th June, 2009 will be: 1. Depreciation deduction $2,000 2. Additional deduction $5,000 Total $7,000 It should be noted that should the taxpayer be in a loss position, the additional 50% tax deduction will not be lost and may increase the taxable loss carried forward to future years.

Furthermore, the additional deduction is not taken into account in calculating any balancing adjustment on disposal of the asset in future years.

Tyler Benson, qualified accountant.

Start Publicity Planning

by Wendy Neely – PR Executive Following from the previous issue of APJ and my article on the Beauty of PR, I have several emails from readers asking me how publicity can specifically help their business, particularly as we are approaching the busiest season of the year.

There are many objectives for publicity, but the most important is to help build credibility and exposure for your company, your salon, your products and services. Publicity creates awareness for new or unique features of a particular service or product and, in turn, can generate new clients and sales. As with all aspects of business, for publicity to be successful and effective it needs a specific plan to be put in place to determine what you wish to achieve.

Other readers were in touch to let me know that in the past they had given publicity their best shot, but the time involved seemed to overwhelm their good intentions. So eventually they gave up, thinking it was a futile exercise, because it did not seem to be happening fast enough and they were basically too busy to fit it into their workday. Some readers mentioned that they had left messages for beauty editors, but their calls were not returned, while others said they had sent products, but nothing had happened. And some reported that they did not know where to start or how to write a press release and didn’t have the time to devote to the process. As with all professions, for PR to succeed it requires the right skills, as it is a very specialised area and a highly competitive one.

As a rule editors don't physically have the time to respond to every person who calls them with a new product or service. This is why using a PR professional can make the difference as they have excellent contacts and established relationships within the media – this is of paramount importance for the success of your publicity. A PR knows exactly what the media requires so is able to save the editors valuable time when discussing products or services. The PR process does take time and a plan, but a PR person can be successful by using their knowledge and experience to persuade the media to profile specific products or services and get everyone talking about a brand, a salon or a service.

Have you got a plan in place? If you haven’t maybe this is the right time to start.

Wendy Neely is the Managing Director of NonStopPR. She has over 20 years’ experience as a Public Relations professional and specialises in the beauty industry. She has excellent connection with over 30 magazine editors, newspapers and journalists. NonStopPR is based in Sydney. If you would like to know more about PR, call Wendy on ( 02) 9684 6729 or 0 4 3 8 9 11 0 1 7 , a l t e r n a t i v e l y e m a i l nonstoppr@optusnet.com.au

APJ 39

anti-ageing

Stress, Telomeres and Botanical Medicine

by Dr Daniel Weber PhD; Msc As we explore the whole spectrum of wellness and longevity in a bid to provide anti-ageing solutions for our clients, it is appropriate that we also look outside of our specific disciplines.

Scientific discoveries offer us new information that gives us further insight and guidelines as to what factors shorten our lifespan and what we can do about it.

you find it impossible to cope with a circumstance, or unable to learn to adapt. If you cannot manage your stress and are not coping at all this is not healthy. It is important that we learn to manage our energy levels. This can be achieved through eating nutritional food, exercising, meditation – taking time out for us to do nothing, and finding support through others.

Dr Daniel Weber recently presented a lecture at the Academy of Anti-Ageing Medicine Conference in Melbourne on the subject “Stress, Telomeres and Botanical Medicine: Your Gut and Your Life, Make them work for you”. In an interview with APJ we asked Dr Weber several questions to benefit from his knowledge.

2. What are telomeres, when were they discovered and what role do they play in the ageing process?

Dr Weber: Telomeres are caps at the end of our DNA, which

1. In your study of the impact of stress on the body what are the most important findings you have discovered?

Dr Weber: First let’s clarify one thing – stress has its place in our life. We need it to challenge us and to stimulate us to grow.

Stress puts us in an allostatic mode that stimulates hormones to prepare our body for change. Allostasis is the process of achieving stability, or homeostasis, through physiological or behavioural change that affect our body’s capacity to adapt to new environments and change. This can be carried out by means of alteration in hormones, the autonomic nervous system, or a number of other systems, and is generally adaptive in the short term. However, with the pressures of modern living we can experience allostatic overload, which results in our body refusing to adapt. If this is not addressed it can lead to death. It can also contribute to cardiovascular diseases, obesity and even some forms of cancer. You can detect allostatic overload when APJ 40

protect the end of the chromosome from destruction. They were discovered through the search for a better understanding of cellular biology and this was fairly recently in 1971 when a Russian theorist, Alexei Olovnikov, recognised the problem of how chromosomes could replicate right to the tip.

During cell division, the enzymes that duplicate the chromosome and its DNA cannot continue their duplication all the way to the end of the chromosome. If cells divided without telomeres, they would lose the end of their chromosomes, and the necessary information it contains. Telomeres are therefore disposable buffers blocking the ends of the chromosomes and are consumed during cell division and replenished by an enzyme called telomerase, which is the repair mechanism. It is this process that goes on that determines our life expectancy.

Once this process is no longer effective we die.

Interestingly enough, it has been discovered that cancer cells are able to repair their telomeres and therefore keep on dividing and growing. This is why cancer is so aggressive. It is also now

understood that you cannot extend your life expectancy beyond what your genetics indicate. This is called the Hayflick limit, which is the number of times a normal cell population will divide before it stops, presumably because the telomeres reach a critical length. Hayflick limit determines how long you will live. With the right lifestyle changes you can live to your full potential, but you cannot grow your lifespan beyond what your genetic code indicates. You can only shorten it due to environmental and health factors. It is now suggested that with the right lifestyle and nutritional changes our average estimated lifespan could be as long as 120 years.

The simplest way to have a long life is to have a young mother.

Statistically, the younger your mother was when you were born the longer your potential lifespan. You can increase your Hayflick limit, but you cannot extend your life.

3. What lifestyle recommendations do you believe can support the integrity of telomeres and help us live to our full genetic potential?

Dr Weber: There are several considerations that I would recommend: 1. EXERCISE – It is important to exercise. I recommend five times a week.

2. DIET – Eat a healthy diet of 35 per cent lean protein and include fruits and vegetables as part of your staple diet and a little whole grain. The best meat is lean, grass-fed, rather than grain-fed meat as the fat content is less. There are now correlations between animal fat and cancer, so make sure your meat is lean. Cook your own food and eat leisurely with your family or good company. This is best for your digestion. Don’t eat until you are full. Stop at approximately 80 per cent before you feel full. Overeating is unhealthy. Don’t eat in a hurry or when you are highly stressed as your gut will shut down and your digestion will become impaired. This condition can lead to a leaky gut.

3. AVOID SMOKING 4. RED WINE – Drink 1-2 glasses of red wine no more than five days a week.

5. WATER – Drink plenty of clean, pure water.

6. FRESH AIR – Exposure yourself to fresh air.

7. SLEEP – Make sure you get at least 8.5 hours of sleep each day, as it is during sleep that your repair mechanism is activated.

If you do not sleep adequately, over a 10-year period you will cause your body serious damage. And when you sleep make sure it is in a totally dark room, not a partially lit room. Totally darkness induces melatonin secretion. Melatonin is a naturally occurring hormone that is important in the regulating of several biological functions. Many biological effects of melatonin are produced through activation of melatonin receptors, while others are due to its role as a pervasive and powerful antioxidant with a particular role in the protection of nuclear and mitochondrial DNA. Melatonin deficiency is commonly found in shift workers and it is also a contributing factor in certain cancers e.g. breast cancer.

8. ANTIOXIDANTS – eat foods rich in antioxidants. There is a whole body of research that supports several nutrients. ! Resveratrol, which is found in the skin of red grapes, is considered a powerful antioxidant. In mouse and rat experiments, anti-cancer, anti-inflammatory, blood-sugarlowering and other beneficial cardiovascular effects of resveratrol have been reported. Most of these results have yet to be replicated in humans. In the only positive human trial, extremely high doses (3–5 g) of resveratrol in a proprietary formulation have been necessary to significantly lower blood sugar. However, it is still considered as a valuable antioxidant for humans. ! EGCG – found in Green Tea this is also a great antioxidant.

!

Cod Liver Oil as well as other fish oils because of their Vitamins A and D. Good fats, such as Omega 6 from vegetable oils and Omega 3 from fish oil, should be equally regulated. These are essential as they offer the body anti-inflammatory properties. There is some debate about this ratio as there are concerns that we get far more Omega 6 from vegetable oil from our food than we get Omega 3 and we should attempt to keep the ratio equal. Olive oil is an Omega 9 and is good choice too. We should only be cooking with this oil. Olive oil can retain its nutrients when heated up to a temperature of 160 degrees Celsius compared to vegetable oils that lose many of their nutrients at a temperature of 110 degrees Celsius. The reason that good fats are important is because of their anti-inflammatory properties, and inflammation destroys telomeres. It also leads to chronic infections, oxidative stress, as well as allergies and food intolerances.

9. OPTIMUM WEIGHT – If your waist is bigger than your hips then your body will be in allostatic overload and will be stressed. Keeping to your optimum weight is also important for good health and longevity.

10. SUN EXPOSURE – Getting adequate levels of sun is also very important for Vitamin D3 synthesis. Vitamin D3 is critical in supporting the body against autoimmune diseases, such as multiple sclerosis and certain cancers. Many people who use regular sunscreen have a Vitamin D deficiency. Getting adequate levels of sun is critically important to good health.

This is an issue that still has a level of controversy, but we are not talking about getting burnt. Sensible sun exposure and exercising in moderation is the key here. I also believe that taking adequate levels of antioxidants will also support your body to tolerate the sun better. Omega 7 is also an excellent skin protector, as is Sea Buckthorn oil, which is considered as a nutriceutical. Used topically or internally, it protects the skin against sun damage as well as offer anti-ageing properties. Also a combination of Vitamins C and E as well as Vitamin K give skin greater tolerance to sun damage.

4. Can you name some botanicals that can offer credible clinical results in addressing stress, degeneration and overall health?

Dr Weber: We have already mentioned Resveratrol. Studies at UCLA University have identified the life-extension properties of this antioxidant.

Ginseng has also been proven to extend cellular life and is great in supporting the brain against the effects of ageing as well is aiding memory.

Dang Chen and Dang Gui are two credible Chinese herbs. Both are used to preserve cellular integrity and to extend life expectancy.

We are a community of cells and all must work in co-operation if we are to enjoy good health. If one is destructive it will affect the rest of the body.

5. What other nutrients have been scientifically validated for good health?

Dr Weber: There are several that we could speak of:

! ! !

Alpha Lipoic Acid, which is an essential cofactor for many enzyme complexes. It is an excellent antioxidant.

Lycopene found in tomatoes is an excellent antioxidant and great for sun protection. It also supports the body against prostriate cancer in men.

Lutin extract from marigold flowers has been found to protect the eyes from sun damage.

APJ 41

key thing here is to have adequate training. If you don’t there are certain areas, such as with fatsoluble vitamins, for example Vitamin A, E and D, where high doses can be toxic. I am not a believer in just taking any multi-vitamin and mineral tablet as a nutritional solution, but rather you should take what you need. We now have excellent ways of testing to determine your exact deficiencies so that we can then prescribe on the basis of your exact needs and make nutritional recommendations accordingly. Another example is iron and copper in a formula. If it is too high, it can be proinflammatory. Trace minerals are also very important for the body, but large quantities can be toxic.

7. In natural therapies what is good for stress and stress management?

Dr Weber: A slow, gentle massage is excellent for depression as it can alter hormone levels. In today’s society people are often under-touched and this can affect them physically and emotionally. It is good to hug your children and family as it contributes to good health.

There are also some excellent herbs such as Suan Zao Ren Tang, which nourishes the blood, calms the mind and relieves mental restlessness. The amino acid El Tryptophan is also an excellent neuro-relaxant. SaMe is also another dietary supplement that can ease depression, but the body adapts to it after 4-6 weeks.

5HTP is a naturally occurring amino acid, a precursor to the neurotransmitter serotonin and an intermediate in tryptophan that also helps with anxiety, moods and depression.

This article was provided through the contribution of A5M. For further information please contact the AustralAsian Academy of Anti-Ageing Medicine (www.a5m.net) or call 03 9813 0439.

! !

!

Acetylcysteine is an amino acid that has been found to offer cell protection from free radical damage and is an excellent mucolytic agent.

Selenium is an important mineral and a valuable antioxidant. There is also evidence that garlic and onion are of great benefit to our health. It is also recommended that you eat small quantities of 75 per cent pure dark chocolate for its antioxidant properties.

Curcumin – from the turmeric plant contains polyphenols that are responsible for the yellow colour of turmeric.

Curcumin has excellent anti-inflammatory properties. The U.S. National Institutes of Health have four clinical trials under way to study curcumin treatment for pancreatic cancer, multiple myeloma, Alzheimer's, and colorectal cancer. Curcumin also enhances the production of brainderived neurotrophic factor, or BDNF, which supports nerve growth.

6. Can botanicals be recommended by aesthetic practitioners, or should they be prescribed only by a doctor?

Dr Weber: Anyone who has training in nutritional medicine can make recommendations for nutritional supplements. The

APJ 42

Dr Daniel Weber is the Director and founder of Living Medicine in Sydney. He has over 40 years’ experience in treating stress, obesity, emotional problems and other common conditions with skill and sympathy. He has a lifetime commitment to health and fitness and sustains a physical condition 30 years younger than his biological age (born 1942). He believes that getting fit and staying fit must be the first commitment to our life and to the lives of those around us.

When we achieve this wellbeing we have emotional stability, intellectual acuity and a long life. Dr Weber is recognised as a leader in his field and he has lectured in Australia, the US, the UK, South Africa, China and Japan and has written the first English language database for Chinese herbal medicine in 1992. Dr Weber can be contacted on 02 9519 1633 or Email: drdweber@panaxea.com.

Good Things Come in Small Packages

PalmLaser is a highly effective hand-held device originally developed to speed up recovery from sports injuries and assist with pain and wound healing. The same bio-stimulation process required for pain management and wound healing assists with facial rejuvenation and rebuilding of elastin and collagen.

PalmLaser provides high-performance, powerful biostimulation using red LED and infrared lasers for fast results in cosmetic enhancement for the face and body. Red for problems at and near the surface, and infrared for deep penetration.

It provides fast results for: > Pre and post operation skin recovery > Healing after IPL (recovery time is halved) > Reduction of inflammation e.g. after electrolysis > Non-surgical facelifts used in conjunction with traditional facials > Skin problems e.g. acne, alopecia, eczema, psoriasis, rosacea, couperose and burns > Anti-ageing treatments PalmLaser is painless and without side-effects. It improves cell metabolism and aids in enhancing product penetration, but can be used without products. The PalmLaser is a Class 1M laser, ARTG listed and is also available in 200w power output for salon or home use.

MagicGlow, also a hand-held device, provides two salon treatments in one device for face and body: > Microcurrent – mimics the body's own electrical current to reactivate and stimulate almost all of the 53 nerves within the skin at an alternating frequency of 3.9 kHz. > LED – high-powered far infrared light works on the surface of the skin and is effective in treating skin discolouration, fine lines and decreases the time to heal blemishes. The red light increases blood flow at the point of treatment, accelerating the effects of the microcurrent. The MagicGlow provides the ability to directly treat wrinkles so the "exudative" inflammatory phase can take place.

Fibroblast proliferation, collagen and cell renewal are stimulated.

MagicGlow and PalmLaser are manufactured by MedSolution of Germany, which specialises in innovative laser phototherapy devices with a wide range of applications in medicine, orthopaedics, physiotherapy, aesthetic and veterinary medicine. The development of the MagicGlow and PalmLaser provide a low-cost solution without compromising quality or performance.

For further details visit www.laserportable.com or call Aspire Anti-Ageing Products 02 8901 4006 APJ 43

technology Are you revealing to your client their true SKIN CONDITION AND THE CHANGES YOU ARE ACHIEVING?

By Scott Michaelson Tools such as Woods Lamps and Black Light Box Skin Scanners have had to be dragged out of cupboards in order to get a more accurate assessment.

However, with the advancement of technology this task can be more accurately performed through electronic skin scanners. One of the best points of difference any serious salon could have right now is to sit their clients in front of an electronic/ photographic skin scanner and allow them to experience and view evidence of an amazing in-depth analysis that is possible through such technology.

These devices are now able to provide: A more accurate analysis of the skin A visual evidence of what is happening in and on the skin The tools for accurately matching retail products to the skin’s current needs

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But the most powerful thing they can achieve for you is that they are impressive to the client in helping them better view and understand their skin. Never before has a single piece of relatively inexpensive equipment had such an instant impact on a salon’s profitability.

I don’t think anyone involved in the aesthetic industry at present would argue with my assessment that business has never been so competitive. Despite the global recession and local economic downturn there seems to be more salons in the suburbs than ever before. Pharmacies and department stores are building larger beauty counters, and even the medical fraternity has decided to expand into traditional beauty services, offering aesthetic and cosmetic treatments within their medical practices.

To remain competitive, and indeed grow their business, successful salon owners have had to change the way their clients perceive them in order to retain market share. Many have upgraded their treatments to ensure that they are now able to bring results to a much higher level through more advanced equipment and products that promise greater treatment outcomes.

However, with the introduction of advanced skin formulations and treatments comes the need to validate to the client these results in order for them to invest in them. To achieve this is it now necessary that all procedures, including the client’s skin analysis, is performed at a more scientific level to accurately identify specific information both to the therapist and the client as to how these products and treatments are impacting the skin.

APJ 44

With the use of such a device your client’s impression of you and your team as serious skin therapists is immediately enhanced. Why is this so? The client is confronted with magnified, fullcolour images of their own skin that highlights everything from pore size to the presence of pigmentation, sun damage, vascular conditions as well as depth of lines and wrinkles. The machinery itself is sleek and modern and offers computerised images of the skin that don’t lie. This provides the operator with all the necessary ammunition to present her interpretive skills as a professional aesthetician to her client.

There has never been a better platform to discuss programs of treatments, specialised equipment and advanced cosmeceutical homecare products than after a skin analysis using a photographic imager. The client is confronted with undeniable facts about their skin and if they want solutions to problem areas then the very capable therapist operating this exclusive equipment is the person to provide the answers. After all, if they can use this sort of advanced technology competently they must be extremely knowledgeable in their chosen field. And that’s the secret to success – the perception that you are more skilled and knowledgeable than the department store counter staff or pharmacy assistants. Your expertise and services are taken seriously as an anti-ageing treatment provider that has the answers, especially if you go to all the trouble of a skin consultation using such advanced equipment.

Our records show that salons and clinics that have introduced this sophisticated technology into their business have

sales of cosmeceutical ranges, especially when this sort of imaging can provide before and after photos to validate indisputably the visual improvement in their client’s skin concerns.

My company has been selling specialised equipment to the beauty industry for over 10 years and we have never before seen one piece of machinery impact a salon’s overall performance like a photographic imager does. There are a number of different models on the market and they range considerably in price.

The Reveal Imager is packed with the impressive features of many of the far more expensive models, but is a relatively nominal investment of only $10K when you consider the immediate advantage it gives you over your competitors. Images are crystal clear and able to be printed on photographic paper in combinations of normal, pigmented or vascular light sources. Comparisons and zoom features can also be printed on to the page. Images can be stored for future reference on a laptop computer or simply shown on a screen. At the bottom of each photo page, recommendations and pictures of products and/or treatments can be added to provide the client with a single, comprehensive consultation sheet complete with photos.

experienced a huge impact on the booking rates of advanced treatments such as IPL, microdermabrasion, peels, LED light therapy and laser, etc. The photographic “tell all” images and the subsequent forum you then have to discuss possible solutions to glaring skin conditions is the perfect scenario for writing programs of serious treatments. Such salons have also recorded significant growth in their retail

The “merely maintenance” brands hate this sort of advanced technology because it shows up their lack of ability to improve the skin’s condition. However, salons with high potency, cosmeceutical grade ranges will revel in the positive changes they see in their client’s skin and will love the enthusiasm their clients show to continue with treatments and homecare. Rebooking rates improve, average-spend jumps, retail sales soar, and your clients have a newfound respect for your training, qualifications and ability as an expert in skin.

For further information on the Reveal Imager phone 02 9669 6858.

APJ 45

creating eyes that TURN HEADS with

When you think of someone exhibiting confidence and charm the eyes would have to be the major communication feature. As with many services and modalities in our industry, simple procedures such as eyelash and eyebrow tinting have been undergoing a transformation with the evolutions of new and exciting colours entering the market that allow these procedures to now become a customised service to suit the individual needs of the client. Otto Mitter from ExImport Niche Products and distributor of Belmacil tints and Elleebana Lash perming, took time out to share with us some of the new possibilities now available, and how this service can bring serious cashflow into your business.

How has eyelash and eyebrow tinting evolved in becoming a more specialised service that can promise a new level of result to the client?

Eyelash and brow tinting is a high turnover and profitable treatment in many salons these days, and now with the variety of colours available it allows the therapist to customise to their client’s needs more than ever before.

Just as hair colouring is an important process in hair salons, so is eyelash and brow tinting.

People are not only looking for more definition when having a tint, they really enjoy having a colour that is customised just for them. With the introduction of new colours this procedure has now become a specialty and we are seeing experts being recognised as colour technicians. For example, in the Belmacil range there is a violet, which is a beautiful colour to highlight hazel eyes and even blue eyes. However, when mixed with black you get a luscious dark burgundy, which accentuates more depth in eyelashes and is a unique colour. The eyes are the main expression features and creative tinting can really enhance them.

With Belmacil’s new colour chart you can easily show your client the extensive range of 11 colours to choose from. Perfecting the service will also encourage client loyalty.

Eyelash and brow tinting is certainly a specialised service and requires great care for the safety of the eyes. European Union regulations as well as Australian Government bodies have strict ingredient regulations to ensure product safety. As the distributor of Belmacil, we are highly committed to the

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safety and efficacy of this service. As part of the consultation process we have invested a great deal of time and money gathering information on eyelash and brow tinting in the beauty industry to help with the formation of new labelling laws that are now in place in Australia and the world. This gives you an idea of just how important and specialised this procedure is throughout the world today.

What special tints are available for eyebrows?

Most of the time you will be looking at shades of brown for the eyebrow area, and in some cases you may even use black or graphite. In the Belmacil range there is some excellent shades of brown to choose from. No. 3 Dark Brown is suitable for a client that requires a very dark eyebrow definition to match dark brown hair colour. No. 3.1 Light Brown is an extremely popular colour for eyebrows. It has dark definition, but with lighter brown tones through it. No. 3.3 Honey Brown is a unique colour and is extremely popular. It is the lightest brown colour in the range and has golden/honey tones throughout. By mixing the 3.1 light brown and the 3.3 honey brown together you can achieve a luscious colour for the eyebrows. Then there is the No. 8 Red – an exciting new colour, which is great for using on clients with red, auburn or shades of red/brown hair. Remember, you can always mix a little brown with it if need be, to match your client’s hair colour. No. 5 Graphite (Grey) gives a charcoal effect and it is suitable for your mature aged clients. You can mix a little No. 3, No 3.1 or No 3.3 if desired to match your client’s hair colour.

Can you name and explain three important considerations that can contribute to achieving the best possible result in eyelash tinting?

Correct application – You should always have a consultation with your client before applying an eyelash or brow tint. A patch test is recommended 24 hours before application to test for any sensitivity. If the client wants to have a tint without a patch test it is advisable they sign an indemnity form, which we recommend anyway. Check also for any contra-indications such as eye sensitivity and any infections. Make sure you apply BelmaShield natural protective balm under the eyes and on top of the eyelids, then place the Belmacil protective paper eye shields under

the eyes to help stop tint penetrating onto the skin. Our company focuses heavily on correct application procedures and you can view our web video on line at www.belmacil.com to see the step-by-step procedure on eyelash tinting and eyelash perming.

Quantity used – You should always take care with the amount of eyelash tint you are applying. Only use the amount required and make sure that there is no tint on the skin.

Any excess can be removed quickly with a few drops of Belma-Remove on a cotton bud.

Customise – Clients love the idea that the tint can now be customised to their individual needs. Discuss this with them and record colours used on the client file. That way they will come back to you as the expert. At the following appointment, ask for the client’s feedback on the results and if further changes are needed.

With Belmacil why is it important to use the same brand of oxydant when mixing a tint?

Most products in a range are manufactured and designed to be compatible with each other to give you optimum performance and results. The Belmacil oxydant is a crème oxydant, which makes mixing easier and more manageable. When using the Belmacil oxydant with Belmacil tints you will get the longest-lasting results possible. Always use the same brand of oxydant and tint – do not mix brands.

How does eyelash perming work and when and how can it be combined with an eyelash tinting?

Eyelash perming is rapidly becoming a popular eye-enhancing service. This is because eyelash perming curls the lashes for long periods of time from 6, 8 and even 12 weeks. The procedure is very simple to deliver and can make the lashes look more striking, especially when combined with an eyelash tint. Belmacil tints and Elleebana Lash Perming have been formulated to complement one another so they can be performed at the same time.

For further information ph: 07 5576 6388 Email: info@belmacil.com or visit www.belmcil.com and www.elleebana.com

Stop losing your retail clients to the internet See why professional salons all over Australia are making the switch to indio – industry only cosmeceutical

All stockists must sign an agreement stating they will not supply indio blindly over the internet. Due to the very active ingredients indio needs to be prescribed by a fully qualified skincare professional.

Our commitment to you: We deliver only the very best products and results available in the world today. Try them and see for yourself! Named ‘best anti ageing’ - InStyle Magazine 2008.

Salons want double the profit they are currently making on other brands. Indio is a huge 126% to 150% mark-up, double that of most brands.

We give you more gift with purchase stock than any other supplier – up to 30 full size products.

Salons want peace of mind knowing their clients are not buying on international websites at a fraction of the price.

We drive sales with an incentive program for your team by giving 15% of their monthly sales back in complimentary stock for personal use.

Salons understand the majority of their clients will not pay the high price points many skincare suppliers are asking the customer to pay. Ninety percent of women who attended the Cover True focus groups would not spend more than $40 on a cleanser.

Salons realise, during a recession the importance of supporting Australian owned brands and keeping the business at home.

We send you new clients via national marketing campaigns.

We sell strictly to professional salons, medical clinics and day spas only, no minimum order required.

We provide the results of focus group reports on what your clients really want from you in 2009.

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Caroline Nelson - Nelson’s Beauty Business and Salon Owner “indio gives great results, is Australian owned and importantly, is exclusive to industry only professional salons.”

Gay Wardle - Skinology QLD, two time Salon of the Year “The best product available today to the professional salon owner. My repeat business has never been better.

We got tired of losing sales to the internet.”

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5/6/09 5:18:06 PM

servicing clients As a rule, most of the work they do is indoors with very little fresh air and lots of airconditioning. Alternatively, they may have to rush in traffic to meet clients or to negotiate business in clients’ premises. To get extra mileage they are often addicted to their own adrenalin, eat on the run and live off nervous energy. On a positive side they usually enjoy the challenge of their work and most likely get paid extremely well.

In this article we will look at what is stress and the impact it has on our body. This will help us better understand what remedies we can bring in addressing this condition when dealing with a professional or corporate individual who has to cope with the pressures of high responsibility as well as often very high expectations in terms of their performance.

THE ISSUE OF STRESS Stress isn’t always bad. In small doses, it can help us perform under pressure and motivate us to do our best.

But when we’re constantly running in emergency mode, our mind and body pay the price. If we frequently find ourself feeling frazzled and overwhelmed, it’s time to take action to bring our nervous system back into balance. We can protect ourself by learning how to recognise the signs and symptoms of stress and taking steps to reduce its harmful effects.

THE BODY’S STRESS RESPONSE When you perceive a threat, your nervous system responds by releasing a flood of stress hormones, including adrenalin and cortisol. These hormones rouse the body for emergency action. Your heart pounds faster, muscles tighten, blood pressure rises, breath quickens, and your senses become sharper. These physical changes increase your strength and stamina, speed your reaction time, and enhance your focus – preparing you to either fight or flee from the danger at hand.

Stress is a normal physical response to events that make you feel threatened Understanding stress and how to address it in the salon or upset your balance in

by Tina Viney some way. When you sense danger – whether it’s real In the previous issue of APJ we discussed the growing or imagined – the body's defences kick into high gear in a rapid, consumer awareness of the benefit of treatment packages and automatic process known as the “fight-or-flight” reaction, or the value they bring in terms of cumulative results and value for the stress response. The stress response is the body’s way of money. With the advancement of new technologies entering protecting you. When working properly, it helps you stay the market it is almost impossible to run a successful clinic focused, energetic, and alert. In emergency situations, stress can without the benefit of some technology that can rapidly save your life – giving you extra strength to defend yourself by accelerate product penetration, improve cell renewal and create spurring you to slam on the brakes to avoid an accident. The stress response also helps you rise to meet challenges. Stress is immediate and long-term results with anti-ageing benefits. what keeps you on your toes during your business interactions A new area that we examined in my article How to Win the at work, sharpens your concentration when you’re attempting Corporate Client – Part 1 was the corporate and professional the game-winning free throw, or drives you to study for an exam sector of the community. We looked at the profile of this group when you'd rather be watching TV. and identified that as individuals they usually live a life of high expectations, have to deal with mental pressures and quite But beyond a certain point, stress stops being helpful and starts frequently have to endure a demanding workplace where causing major damage to your health, your mood, your competitiveness, jealousies and office politics thrive and rule. productivity, your relationships, and your quality of life. The Their job may demand that they be required to pursue large body doesn’t distinguish between physical and psychological accounts, securing lucrative contracts and having to achieve threats. When you’re stressed over a busy schedule, an demanding financial targets. They often have to attend early argument with a friend, a traffic jam, or a mountain of bills, your board meetings, business breakfasts or cocktail parties to body reacts just as strongly as if you were facing a life-or-death establish networks and meet the necessary people that will help situation. If you have a lot of responsibilities and worries, your emergency stress response may be “on” most of the time. The them reach their objectives and meet their goals.

How to Win the Corporate Client – Part II

APJ 48

more your body’s stress system is activated, the easier it is to trip and the harder it is to shut off.

Long-term exposure to continued stress could lead to serious health problems. Chronic stress disrupts nearly every system in your body. It can raise blood pressure, suppress the immune system, increase the risk of heart attack and stroke, contribute to infertility, and speed up the ageing process. Long-term stress can even rewire the brain, leaving you more vulnerable to anxiety and depression. Health problems that are caused or exacerbated by stress, include pain of any kind, heart disease, digestive problems, sleep problems, depression, obesity, autoimmune diseases and skin conditions such as eczema.

Your ability to tolerate stress depends on many factors, including the quality of your relationships, your general outlook on life, your emotional intelligence and genetics.

Things that influence your stress tolerance level include having a support network, attitude and outlook to life, your sense of control and your ability to deal with your emotions.

PROVIDING SOLUTIONS As an aesthetic therapist there are several things you can do to help minimise a client’s stress levels. These include working with essential oils with therapeutic constituents that will specifically benefit the mind and nervous system. I have included a list of different oils and their relevance to stress. You need to first determine how stress has impacted the client, as this will greatly affect your choice of essential oils.

Some of the symptoms to look for to identify a keyedup nervous state: ! Irritability ! Anxiety ! Rapid speech or loud speech ! Impatience These clients need to be calmed down or tranquillised. Use oils such as Roman Chamomile, Lavender, Marjoram, Neroli or Rose. Make sure that the room is warm and has a special focus on slow, calming music. Massage movements should be slow and gentle, soothing and calming. The pace at which you deliver your treatment should be soothing, slow, gentle and rhythmical. Keep your voice down to a whisper. Don’t forget that the focus here is tranquillity. By bringing all these elements together you can achieve a great deal in not only improving your client’s skin, but also alleviating and melting away harmful stress that can have a detrimental impact on their health and productivity.

To identify mental debility or exhaustion, look for: Excessive fatigue or feeling of being rundown Vagueness Lack of concentration Feeling overwhelmed Depression Apathy

! ! ! ! ! !

This client needs uplifting and cheering. Use oils such as Rosemary, Basil, Clary-sage, Juniper, Benzoin and Jasmine.

The room should be cool and have moderate lighting, cheering music such as jazz or instrumentals. Massage movements should be gentle, but stimulating. The pace of your movements should be more rapid than for a state of nervous debility. Your voice should be cheery and positive and your tone and conversation should be positive, motivational and encouraging.

SCALP MASSAGE Whatever the treatment of choice may be you should carefully plan a massage that should be incorporated into your facial even if you are using equipment such as microdermabrasion, IPL or other devices.

Furthermore, the skin will not respond to any treatment if the nervous system is highly stressed.

Whatever you do incorporate a head and shoulder massage at the very least, and if possible, massage the hands or feet while the client is resting under their mask.

ESSENTIAL OILS TO TONIFY THE NERVOUS SYSTEM

A skilful massage will not only work on the nervous system, but will also instigate hormonal changes to assist the body to achieve homeostasis.

Special emphasis should be placed on the neck and shoulders and if tension is present in the back, a full back massage should be incorporated. Another area that needs careful attention is the forehead, temples and eyes. If you are correctly trained and skilled in lymphatic drainage, then a lymphatic massage for the upper chest, neck, jaw and eyes will greatly benefit to alleviate fluid retention in the face and support the skin’s immune response.

Nervous tension, irritability, anxiety Roman chamomile, lavender, marjoram, neroli, rose, orange, tangerine and ylang ylang

Mental Fatigue, Exhaustion Rosemary, basil, caraway seeds, ginger root, peppermint, petitgrain, spearmint clary sage, juniper, benzoin and jasmine

Fear and nervousness Cistus, neroli, orange, tangerine and lemon verbena Poor memory and concentration Basil, clove bud, juniper berry and nutmeg

To initiate the full relaxation of your client it is recommended that you start your treatment with inhalation of essential oils.

Select the Grief/Emotional appropriate oil, which you should shock dilute at 2-3 per cent strength within Melissa, neroli and a cold-pressed carrier oil. Add a few rose drops to your hands and request that your client inhale slowly and deeply Confusion while you hold your fingers cupped Petitgrain, biguarade in front of their nose so that the essential oil can penetrate their breathing passages. In this way the Sadness therapeutic constituents of the Benzoin resinoid, essential oil will travel through the jasmine, rose and nose to permeate the brain’s limbic rosewood system and aid in the release of tension and stress. Follow this by asking the client to slowly exhale, while you slowly perform draining movements towards the lungs and across to the axillary lymphatic nodes.

In an era of high technology, let us not forget the healing arts of human touch and nurture, delivering our techniques skilfully and with a purposeful and caring intent. In these instances massage may be the catalyst to the end results your client is looking for, whatever that may be. In essence, what you will be doing is addressing their whole being from a holistic perspective. Through your hands you will move beyond the skin to touch, and possibly unlock and release damage brought about by the impact of modern living. In the process you will restore a level of wellness, and possibly even touch their very soul.

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technology The term synergy or synergistic effect, is one that is highly familiar within our industry and it is never more relevant that through the use of multiple technologies that target skin cells and muscles in their own unique way. Despite the fact that they effectively work individually, when combined within one another in the same treatment they offer even greater results. Synergy is when the end results is cumulative, offering a multiplication effect rather than just an addition e.g. 2+2=4, but in synergistic terms 2+2 could equal 8.

As new technologies enter the market, what do we do with the ones that have been around for a while? The answer is we combine them. The objective of the nation-wide APAN seminar program in November aims at demonstrating to delegates just how these principles work and the protocols and contra-indications for such procedures.

CACI International is familiar with the power of synergy when it comes to aesthetic technologies. Based in the UK the award-winning CACI has been the primary global innovator of micro-current as an effective, non-invasive aesthetic treatment for more than 25 years. Even in Australia where brand competition is fierce the CACI brand of equipment technology is well established for over two decades.

WHAT IS MICROCURRENT Microcurrent is a low level of electrical current that mirrors the body’s own natural current, subsensory in most cases. Its proven properties range in applications from wound healing, muscle rehabilitation, and muscular degeneration to lymphodema – continue to assist medical practitioners to achieve noteworthy results. Although microcurrent is credited with hundreds of medical studies, it is necessary to stay focused on how these studies and this technology can benefit and support aesthetic therapists to improve the skin.

The intended use of microcurrent in aesthetics is to provide the aesthetician with a powerful a n d e ff e c t i v e t o o l i n achieving noteworthy results in skin improvement and the overall appearance of ageing.

Most microcurrent applications and results, whether they are medical or aesthetic, rely on the same mechanisms of action. Even without defining each in detail, the list is very impressive and the underlying principles logical. These include:

The power of multiplication in treatment results

! !

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Increased circulation benefits of blood and lymph Muscle re-education

! ! ! !

Iontophoresis for product penetration Supports the natural production of collagen and elastin Increase in protein synthesis, gluconeogenesis and membrane transport Dispersion of hardened collagen

!

Increases in mitochondria activity, adenosine triphosphate (ATP)

MICROCURRENT IN AESTHETICS The mechanisms of microcurrent actions occur simultaneously and harmoniously during a typical 45minute microcurrent facial treatment. Muscle reeducation is mostly related to the term “facial toning or non-surgical face lifting”. There are 32 different muscles on the face that are manipulated during the average microcurrent facial treatment. True microcurrent uses less than 500 microamperes and because of its low intensity it typically is sub-sensory and cannot cause a physical or visual manipulation (contraction) of the muscles via the electric current.

However, accessories such as probes or electric gloves are used with microcurrent to physically move the muscle into the desired position to perform what is known as muscle re-education – the process of lengthening or shortening the muscle.

Muscle re-education conceptually can be done without electrical current, such as through on-going massage therapy. However, when performed through microcurrent it is quicker and more successful.

Working a muscle from the belly outwards will have a lengthening effect that is necessary on muscles that have become increasingly contracted over years of facial expression. Working muscles from the origin and insertion point inwards will have a shortening effect that is necessary for the majority of the muscles that have become elongated over many years of age and gravity. This widely accepted concept was coined as the gogli tendon organ (GTO).

CACI INTERNATIONAL offer you: ! 25 years in the Industry as market leaders and innovators ! Effective muscle tightening and integrated immediate anti-ageing benefits ! Coined the term the Non-Surgical Facelift ! Australian Distributors mean localised training for operators, certification upgrades for trainers and teachers, refresher and mentoring assistance for existing operators without having to go to the UK ! Local advertising and PR campaign support for all operators, salon and spa o w n e r s u s i n g t h e e q u i p m en t t o significantly boost the brand and the profile of the treatments ! Repair and warranty support like never before, providing confidence and convenience to owners

Microcurrent also works on a chemical level in the body stimulating protein synthesis and membrane transport, which is why microcurrent treatment results are cumulative and become better as a series of treatments progresses. Other factors that impact results are the incorporation of other technologies. This is why CACI have released a new Ultimate multi-functional unit.

The ULTIMATE was introduced to the global marketplace at Cosmoprof Hong Kong 2008 and is truly innovative in its combination of modalities. The system offers innovation and seamless transition between modes that address the major concerns of clients wanting immediate and long-term benefits of rejuvenation, repair and refinement for face and body.

ULTIMATE TREATMENT FUCTIONS A variety of treatment modalities are available that can be performed separately or in a wide variety of combinations.

These include: ! Microdermo using a unique ‘never before seen in Australia’ action that is abrading not abrasive. Gentle circular rubbing action with removable/disposable heads and a variety of speeds gently removes the dead skin layer accurately and painlessly, leaving a remarkably smooth refreshed skin. It is known as an addictive experience that clients keep coming back for. ! Microcurrent uses a scientifically-compiled series of probe movements and action sequences to stimulate and reprogram the various muscle groups in the face and neck.

The treatments create immediate recontouring and lifting, while the integrated tissue repair sequence adds lustre and clarity to the skin. The result of this process alone is the core of the famous non-surgical facelift.

!

The Wrinkle Comb is designed to deliver significant stimulation to deep wrinkle troughs that can be very hard to access, but are of such concern for many clients. This treatment is easily incorporated into the overall treatment plan to boost collagen and therefore rebuild precious lost volume in highly targeted areas. ! The LED selections for infusing RED, BLUE, constant or blended are incorporated into the unique microdermabrasion wand or handpiece, as well as the unique Wrinkle Comb. ! The Galvanic Infusion process can be delivered in simple combination with the highly effective microdermabrasion, or to complement signature facials and is a final stage in the FaceLift protocol. A whole new Super Hydrating Treatment using a serum impregnated Silicon Mask that becomes a highly effective Hydratone Treatment is yet another innovation highly prized for its immediate benefits.

CACI combines all these treatments perfectly with IPL that is effective yet delivered without discomfort.

There are many authorised CACI Salons established in Australia and New Zealand, but until now, accredited CACI training was not available in Australia or NZ and salons had to travel to England to gain this. But all that has changed with the appointment of ForeverYoung as the CACI accredited agents for the region. The new ForeverYoung trainers can now train Therapists and Trainers in delivering CACI style Microcurrent, Microdermabrasion, High Frequency and LED, alongside IPL. ForeverYoung on behalf of CACI offer international certification and laser safety training.

For more information call ForeverYoung on 1300 799 092.

APJ 51

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skin treatments

A treatment for Detoxification & Glowing Skin This time of the year is the opportune time to prepare the body for the coming warmer months with a traditional cleansing and detoxification procedure that is guaranteed to improve energy levels, as well as release a vibrancy and smoothness to the skin.

The body, when functioning correctly, will activate its own detoxification processes through the kidneys and the skin.

However, due to environmental toxins, poor diet and stress we often retain impurities that compromise our health. As the skin is the largest organ in the body and is in constant contact with the environment it often harbours toxins beneath its surface.

While diet, exercise, sleep and healthy living are of utmost importance in helping to keep the body healthy, detoxification through an appropriate body treatment can assist in relieving impurities and toxicity from the body and giving it a new lease in life.

The most effective procedures to induce detoxification include the following five elements: ! Heat inducing – stimulate perspiration for the release of toxins ! Exfoliation – to eliminate dead skin cells and facilitate excretion of impurities ! Clay-based vehicles – these have a drawing action and aid in the absorption of impurities ! Active herbs – medicinal-grade herbs that release nutrients and minerals to replenish the skin and body ! Hydration – rebalancing the skin’s hydration levels will aid in retaining the minerals and nutrients into the skin and restore a healthy-looking glow to the skin making it look more youthful.

To kick-start your detox program OmVeda offers an intensive and highly effective yet gentle treatment that is as pleasurable as it is beneficial.

The OmVeda Body Detox is an intensive treatment that produces heat and induces sweating. It begins with ang marma APJ 54

point massage, using warm to hot herbalised oils with persuasive and active movement. This helps to increase circulation and begin the process of dilating the capillaries to begin the process of detoxification. There are several herbalised oils in the range and they should be chosen for the individual needs. These include: ! Karporadhi for congestive problems ! Pinda for dry skin ! Calming Massage Oil for inflammatory conditions

HERE IS THE FULL PROCEDURE STEP 1: Snehana (oleation) Oil massage is an important treatment in Ayurveda. It involves a therapeutic massage of about 45 minutes' duration. The massages are done with two therapists working on either side of the patient/client with special attention paid to the feet.

STEP 2: Swedana (fomentation) This refers to the remedy that involves practices involving heat to make the patient sweat. It can be administered to part or the whole body depending on what requires balancing. Swedana is effective by inducing sweat through heat. There are a number of ways this can be done: eg Steam of medicated herbs, covering the body with blankets or hot towels. This procedure dilates the capillaries and sudorific glands and aids in the removal of toxins.

STEP 3: Sprinkle OmVeda Udwarthanam Powder on the oiled body and follow with a firm massage using circular motions to help increase heat, stimulate circulation and break down congestion in areas where the lymph flow has become sluggish and where toxins have collected. The combined action of massage and herbs aids in improving surface circulation, keeping pores open and encouraging elimination of metabolic wastes. This increases nutrients and oxygen to the skin for improved blood flow, promoting perspiration and thereby aiding the overall cleansing process.

The Udwarthanam Powder comprises traditional Ayurvedic herbs specifically chosen and used for their unique properties, helping to help balance and purify the body. These include: ! Pandanus Odoratissimus – an aromatic herb that is known for its stimulant and anti-spasmodic actions ! Himalayan Cedar – Aids in increasing circulation and treating skin disorders such as eczema and psoriasis ! Nut Grass – An astringent that also stimulates metabolism ! Rubia Crodifolia – For its anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial properties ! Vetiver – Helps to remove excess heat from the body and also has antibacterial properties Alternatively, you can perform the massage with Udwarthanam in conjunction with a brush.

OmVeda recommends eco and skin-friendly fibres such as sisal, coconut or jute.

Start with gentle circular motions then longer, smoother strokes, gradually building firmer strokes as skin becomes accustomed to the sensation.

STEP 4: Steam or apply hot towels to make the body heat and perspire.

Alternatively the body can be wrapped in a thermal blanket. Excess powder and oil is removed with a hot towel.

STEP 5: Apply the pre-made OmVeda Body Mask. The Mask is a combination of purifying herbs like turmeric (decongestant and antibacterial), Neem and orange peel. The powder is made into a paste with room temperature yoghurt and applied over the whole body. The body is then wrapped with a natural cotton like cheesecloth or thin linen and the mask is left on the body for 25 minutes.

STEP 6: Using the palm of the hands roll off the mask with firm movements.

Any excess remaining on the skin can be brushed off with a rolled dry towel or with a natural fibre brush.

STEP 7: Apply OmVeda Turmeric Cream to complete the treatment. The skin will look brighter as many toxins from under the skin will be eliminated and the skin will feel hydrated and soft.

The client should continue a daily massage with herbalised oil, weekly scrub with OmVeda Udwarthanam powder and apply OmVeda Rehydrating Body Lotion or Honey Body Lotion daily. Daily maintenance will help to keep the skin smooth, soft and minimise the appearance of cellulite.

An intensive salon treatment is encouraged regularly particularly when seasons are changing and the body is adjusting itself to climatic fluctuations. A simple tea can help to keep the system in balanced.

SIMPLE DETOXIFYING TEA Sipping warm teas throughout the day is also a highly effective way to flush out accumulated toxins from the body. Simply place the ingredients in a medium saucepan with 4 cups filtered water, bring the water to a boil for 5 minutes, and then steep for 2 to 5 minutes. Always add the lemon while the tea is steeping.

Strain into a tea pot or thermos. This is an excellent tea for individuals who are trying to lose weight.

Kapha Tea to aid detoxification and weight loss 1 teaspoon cumin seeds ½ teaspoon coriander seeds 1 cinnamon or liquorice stick 10 fresh basil leaves Squeeze lemon juice

For more information please call OmVeda on 1 300 662 383 or visit www.omveda.com.

APJ 55

Upgrading your skills now to offer these services is timely as we are approaching the festive season when clients need to look their best. So what can you offer your client to enhance their eyes and even give the illusion of an eyelift?

EYEBROWS Eyebrows can droop, fade or become thinner, contributing to a tired look. Through Cosmetic Tattooing techniques you can create the illusion of an eyebrow lift that can take years off your client’s face. This can be achieved through several techniques, including feather strokes that can look totally natural, yet make a huge difference to one’s appearance.

Colour matching to hair colour is also an advantage, particularly with women experimenting with richer, more bold tones of hair colour, while eyebrows that do not coordinate still look dull and dated.

EYES As the skin around the eyes loses its tone and eyelashes start to fade, so the eyes can start to look smaller and less youthful.

Eyeliner techniques are incredibly effective in enlarging the eyes and can be achieved with either a top-lid eyeliner, a bottom-lid eyeliner or both top and bottom lids tattooed to offer a permanent eyeliner effect.

However, there is now another option. Eyeline and shadow blend in a variety of colours. One of the most exciting techniques you now can offer your clients is the 3D effect of using three colours to c r e a t e a beautifully enhanced eyeline/eyeshadow effect. This is achieved through a special technique that allows you to introduce a variety of colours in varying depths and tones to create a virtual 3D effect that will enlarge and enhance any eye. By choosing from a variety of colours to complement and enhance the eye colour you can achieve beautiful results that will amaze your clients.

3D Cosmetic Tattoo for the Eyes

The New Trompe L’oeil technique for Eye Enhancement

by Faye Rielly

Although the term Trompe L’oeil has its origin in the Baroque period, when it refers to perspective illusionism, the use of trompel'oeil dates back much further to the 14th century. It was (and is) often employed in grand homes as wall murals to give the illusion of a garden or an open window intended to suggest a much larger space.

The term Trompe L’oeil is French meaning “trick of the eye”. It is a technique involving extremely realistic imagery in order to create the optical illusion that the depicted objects appear in three dimensions, instead of actually being two-dimensional.

The technique requires superior understanding of perspective drawing, but the results achieved are often short of breathtaking.

The principles of these techniques are now introduced in cosmetic tattooing to enhance features and minimise flaws.

With continued advances in technology and techniques every modality has new and exciting techniques to raise the standard of results to a higher level, and cosmetic tattooing is no exception.

This is an exciting profession that requires from its technicians to constantly embrace new developments and perfect better end results that are more impressive and more natural looking. As a profession, it is extremely rewarding as it allows you to transform and enhance features and literally offer a new level of confidence to your clients through the mastery of your artistic skills.

With the great focus on the eyes that is currently the trend there is much that can be achieved through cosmetic tattooing with the introduction of specialised techniques giving you new options.

APJ 56

AIPM is now offering training in this technique that is achieved with an incredible array of colours formulated specifically to achieve this effect. Here is just some examples of colours: For a Blue Liner and Shadow: B1: BLUE/BLACK, B2: DARK BLUE, B3: BLUE GRAY, B4 LIGHT BLUE/GRAY. We also have the same variation of tones in green and purple that look fabulous not only on blue eyes, but also with brown eyes.

At AIPM we offer one-on-one training at all levels of Cosmetic Tattoo from beginners to post-graduate to a high level of competence. Once your training is complete we have an excellent support system through our help-line to ensure that you can reach us if you need any help. This is a great time to also complete a refresher course or upgrade your qualifications through new and exciting techniques so that you can offer something new to your existing client as well as target new clients as well. The cost of upgrading your qualifications can be retrieved in just one or two treatments. Testimonials for satisfied graduates who have trained with AIPM are available on request.

Why not gain the skills to create your own “Trompe L’oeil” masterpieces through this incredible eye-enhancing technique and be recognised as the true expert in this exciting profession?

For your training needs or for supplies in cosmetic tattoo please phone AIPM on 07 5530 5411.

LEADING THE WAY IN COSMETIC TATTOO EDUCATION

Certificate courses in ! Eyebrows ! Eyeliner Extension ! Upper & Lower Eyeliners ! Eyelash Enhancement ! Full Lip ! Lip-line & Lip-blend ! Beauty spot & Blush ! Advanced Paramedical ! Scar camouflage ! Vitiligo Re-pigmentation ! Nipple Areola Creation ! Nipple Areola Re-pigmentation ! Correction colouration ! Electronic colour removal ! Feature reconstruction ! Hair imitation ! Scar relaxation ! Multitrepannic collagen actuation ! Non-Laser Tattoo Removal (Face & Body) ! Training Mapped to WRB31A and above

Faye Rielly — Principal

One-On-One Training (For Outstanding Graduates)

Sole Authorised Australasian Mei-cha Educator & Distributor MEI-CHA: A WORLD PIONEER IN COSMETIC TATTOO INNOVATIONS & SAFETY

Phone: (07) 5530 5411 Fax: Email: abeautyconcepts@bigpond.com

(07) 5530 7411 Web: www.farren.com.au

P.O. Box 1606 Mudgeeraba 4213

laser phototheraphy TREATING THE WHOLE BODY Anti-Ageing Effects of Laser Biomodulation Tina H.E. Czech Principal: Australian Institute Of Laser Therapy

“In every culture and in every medical tradition before ours, healing was accomplished by moving energy.” Szent-Gyorgi 1960

Energetically a human being is continually exchanging energy and information with the environment, which comes to us and flows from us. When the body is young it can use and create energy efficiently and provided that good nutrition, pollution-free water and air is provided to the body, along with a balanced workload and stress-free rest periods, then the highest level of the individual’s genetic expression will be supported.

acne before

To retard the process of ageing and degeneration, both the quantity and quality of this energetic information must be close to the ideal needs of the individual to create and maintain order and coherent function of all the open biological systems of the body. Any disturbance to this biological and electromagnetic order will undermine homeostasis on which our health and protection from premature ageing depend.

Cells within a youthful living body have been shown to resonate optimally at an energetic level. This fundamental phenomenon occurs through sub-atomic pulsed electromagnetic (EM) fields that facilitate signalling. At an atomic scale the ways in which molecules interact energetically has much more meaning than mere physical contact. As a hormone moves towards a receptor site the bonds begin to twist, bend and rotate to change the structure and orientation of the molecules and so enable the active site of the hormone to dock into the active site of the receptor. This recognition of a specific hormone by a receptor depends on the resonant vibratory interactions, and as each part of a molecular sequence occurs, a spectrum of different EM frequencies will be given off.

acne after

ageing legs before

APJ 58

In some cases triggering a receptor with the appropriate EM field is indistinguishable from triggering it with a hormone or other kind of

ageing legs after

stimulus. Likewise a corresponding sequence of frequencies can be applied to a molecule to either enhance or inhibit the internal motions of that molecule.

Important biological regulatory feedback can be partly or entirely electromagnetic As each molecule in the regulatory loop emits and absorbs electromagnetic signals they are absorbed and conducted throughout the body by the semi-conductive properties of the connective tissue. The structural organisation of cells, tissues and organs relies on specific collective frequencies, and generally if cells shift frequency then the entraining EM signals from nearby cells will reinstate the correct frequency. Sometimes, however, the strength of the systems’ collective frequency can reduce to a level that leads to a loss of EM coherence and interrupts signalling and, consequently chemical messenging.

Electromagnetic signalling from a laser using specific pulse frequencies, which is programmed to be delivered with a laser beam of pure light, can assist in restoring signalling within the non-coherent, disturbed biological system. In this way it reinstates optimum cellular regeneration and molecular communication, the lack of which is all too often considered to be a normal part of the ageing process.

Laser light energy, at dosages too low to produce visible thermal reactions within skin and body tissues, has been shown to increase cell-membrane potential and permeability via photochemically induced reactions. This leads to improved cellular function and metabolism, which is essential to prevent accelerated ageing, not only for the skin, but the body tissues as well.

cellulite legs before

cellulite legs after

Enhanced tissue regeneration at cutaneous and subcutaneous levels influences the visible appearance of the entire body that declines as we age.

Without this vital process the body would succumb to being in a perpetual, chronic inflammatory state, which would eventually result in the development of a disease state and consequently death.

Secondary laser-induced vasodilation of blood and lymph vessels improves circulation to assist in preventing varicose veins in the legs and will reduce the visible appearance of existing enlarged surface veins due to anti-inflammatory effects. Movement of lymph fluids throughout the connective tissue means better immune activity, less fluid retention and a smoother body appearance.

Specialised scanning laser devices programmed with specific pulse rates for specific conditions and tissue types have demonstrated the ability to instigate vasodilation of lymphatic vessels within the entire body in a matter of minutes.

Wavelengths within the 600nm to 950nm range of visible and invisible light are absorbed by cytochromes at a cellular level, promoting electron transfer and redox reactions within the mitochondria. This results in increased production of adenosine triphosphate (ATP), which is the biochemical fuel for cells to function.

The biomodulating effect of laser light energy is greatest when the cells’ redox potential is in a reduced state and the intracellular pH is commensurably lower, as it is after injury or surgery or during illness. This primary affect on the respiratory chain occurs due to the cells’ ability to transduce light into typical reactional and functional patterns. The functional principles of the cell respiratory chain, in conjunction with the cellular operational carriers, is common to all cells in all types of tissues, enabling laser biomodulation, which is non-thermal in its action, to be utilised for not only the treatment of skin but the entire human body.

Pathological states will cause decreases in mitochondrial activity, loss of cellular function and interferences with the biological feedback, contributing to cellular degeneration, disease and accelerated ageing.

Every physiological process within a living organism has an electrical counterpart, and any changes in the physical state of a cell, an organ or a tissue creates a disturbance within the corresponding electrical and magnetic field. These changes are no longer considered to be physiological by-products, but a means of whole body communication, via electromagnetic signalling at a cellular and tissue level. Oscillation and feedback mechanisms allow molecular reactions and movement of energy and information at a quantum level, via the crystalline matrix structural arrangement of the connective tissue, which forms a connecting continuum for chemical and electronic communication throughout the entire living body and connecting to every cell.

Everything that is expelled by a cell or absorbed by a cell must pass through the matrix. The extracellular matrix is the terrain of inflammation by which the body eliminates toxicity. The use of non-steroidal anti-inflammatory medication or corticosteroids blocks the body’s natural capacity to remove waste material, because the biological reason for inflammation is to remove unwanted biological waste or foreign substances out of the body.

contact dermatitis before

contact dermatitis after

These scanning lasers effectively drain accumulated waste materials and harmful substances from the extracellular matrix.

Regular lymph drainage for the removal of biological and chemical environment substances that come in contact with the skin, inhale from the atmosphere or orally ingest via the food chain is essential to prevent illness and maintain optimum immune function. The anti-inflammatory effects of laser biomodulation occur within minutes, making it the ideal modality for any skin conditions that are related to allergic reactions to products or other clinical treatments, excema, psoriasis, dermatitis or following laser or IPL to prevent post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, which is a prevalent complication in Fitzpatrick skin type III and above after strong chemical peels and thermal photorejuvenation.

Inflammation in the deeper tissues of the body and joint spaces e.g. arthritis can easily be alleviated with laser biomodulation, in addition to improving blood flow to the joint and regeneration of injured bone, nerves and cartilage. Injury to muscles during sporting activities can take many months to mend. Corticosteroids and non-steroidal, anti-inflammatory medication can block the body’s natural capacity to remove waste materials, interfering with natural healing processes, and overuse of these medications for long periods can predispose the user to unwanted side-effects.

The use of laser biomodulation mediates, but does not block important inflammatory pathways to enable a person to move through the inflammatory phase faster into recovery phase, while simultaneously reducing pain and maintaining cellular function and regeneration of the injured area. Mobility is restored to the affected area sooner, meaning that a person can return to work or exercise or sporting activities much sooner. This accelerated healing and recovery and control of scar tissue formation is a must for anyone who has had cosmetic, orthopaedic or general surgery of any kind and is already being successfully integrated into existing health and day spas, aesthetic surgical facilities and antiageing clinics.

Laser-induced biomodulation facilitates electronic communication within the entire body at a cellular and tissue level and via the rebalancing of the acupuncture energy meridians.

Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM) involves the use of phytotherapeutics and the movement of energy through the energy meridian system via the use of acupuncture, to prevent illness and pain. The morphology of acupuncture points has been identified as

Neurodermatitis Neurodermatitis before after

anti-wrinkle, skin refining, muscle firming before

anti-wrinkle, skin refining, muscle firming after

APJ 59

PHOTONIC WELLNESS Next Generation in Healthcare

perforations of the superficial fascia, which is pierced by a vessel/nerve bundle enveloped in a water-saturated mesenchymal sheath (Heine cylinder). The differences in electrical potential between the acupoint and the environment arise as a result of this mesenchymal sheath.

Energy imbalances will manifest as states of emptiness (Yin) or abundance (Yang) at certain acupoints, which are indicated by altered skin resistance.

Any biochemical change in the proteoglycans and glycosamines that form the biological matrix of the connective tissue are decisive in the generation of pain and pivotal to transfer of electromagnetic energy along a meridian.

Changes in the pH of the tissue, due to inflammation and accumulation of metabolic wastes, contributes to acidosis and so alters the electrical charge conditions of the matrix. The increased acidosis can be also be visibly seen in the case of cellulite, which is proposed to be a secondary tissue response to matrix toxicity, which results in increased formation of fibrous tissue.

Laser biomodulation offers the next generation in anti-ageing at a quantum level, and because the principles of the mitochondria and cell respiratory chain is common to all cells that make up the various tissues of the body. This non-invasive, painless and side effect-free therapy is fully integrative into the clinical regimes of all practitioners who seek to heal and maintain the health of the body using holistic principles to support and maintain homeostasis on which our health and protection from premature ageing depend.

! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! !

Drains the lymphatic system in minutes Balance chakras and acupuncture meridians Improve circulation and scar tissue oxygenation Reduce inflammation, pain, arthritis Repair scars and stretchmarks Counteract skin reactions to products and other thermal laser and IPL Alleviate chronic skin disorders Increase collagen and wrinkle reduction Energise and lift face and body muscles Accelerate recovery after all surgery & sports injury

For more information on how the PHOTONIC WELLNESS can re-inforce your current clinical or spa regime contact the Australian Institute of Laser Therapy on 1300 887 344.

APJ 60

For further information about any of these therapeutic devices and research references call the Australian Institute Of Laser Therapy on 1300 887 344.

REFERENCES Andreev, E.A. Beloy M.V. and Sitco S.P. (1984) The manifestation of natural characteristic frequencies of the organism of man. Reports to the Academy of sciences of the Ukrainian SSR No: 10, series b, Geological, chemical and Biological Sciences, pp 60-63.

Bouligand, Y (1978) Liquid Crystals and their analogs in biological systems.

In: Liebert L. (ed) Liguid crystals. Solid State Physics, Supplement 14:259294.

Karu T., Payatibrat L., Kalendo, G (1995) Irradiation with He Ne laser increases ATP level in cells cultivated in vitro, J. Photochem. Photobiology B: Biology, 27 (3) , 219-223.

Karu, T.I. (1991) Stimulation of metabolic processes by low intensity visible light: scientific basis for biostimulation. In Laser Application in Biology and Medicine, Vol.5, Ed by M. Wolbarsht. Plenum Press, New York, pp. 1-47.

Brandt, B. Inflammation Means Healing. Inspiration 2002:38 Leivens, P. The Influence of Laser Irradiation on the Motricity of the Lymphatic System and on Wound Healing process. Proc Int Congr on Laser in Med and Surg. Bologna, June 26-28, 1985; p171.

Tina Czech is the principal of the Australian Institute of Laser Therapy, which is a nationally registered training organisation in cosmetic and therapeutic laser therapy. Tina holds a university Degree in Health Science, Graduate Diploma in Clinical Nutrition, International Diploma in Aesthetics and Electrotherapy and numerous postgraduate qualifications in the field of laser. She is internationally renowned as a leading educator in her field, specialising in laser photo-medicine, dermal and tissue repair and is a member of the honorary board of directors for the World Academy of Laser Applications and laser technical adviser to the Royal District Nursing Service LILT Research Reference Group, Standards Australia Medical Laser Committee, and APAA Australian Medical and Clinical Laser Professionals and President of the Australian Society Of Dermal Clinicians.

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anti-ageing

Anti-ageing solutions The double-pronged approach The beauty of our profession is that it offers us incredible flexibility of choice in determining what modalities we will undertake and trust to deliver the level of results that consumers are now expecting. It matters not whether we choose to work with advanced equipment technologies or embrace traditional methodologies. The fact still remains that we must be able to demonstrate that what we offer is credible, evidence-based and stands its ground in a fiercely competitive arena of treatment outcomes that are now available in the aesthetic industry, whether they are delivered by a skin therapist or a doctor.

Images courtesy of Chrysalis Beauty, Wanneroo, Perth, WA.

by Paul Fister

Before

The synergy of treatment modalities is often the key factor that can accelerate impressive anti-ageing results that are substantial and noteworthy, regardless of the skin type or condition. Getting incredible results requires that we fully explore and understand both the skin and its function and how ingredients and procedures will effectively impact the skin to bring about the changes we, and our clients, are seeking.

In this article Paul Fister explores the principles of exfoliation through natural botanicals, and how when combined with formulations that can deliver superior hydration can rapidly transform the skin and offer results that can rival the best the aesthetic industry has to offer.

When considering effective anti-ageing skin therapy results, we need to examine the outcomes we wish to achieve. As such, there are two complementary levels of service we can offer: ! Corrective treatments – Designed to achieve dramatic changes in the appearance of the skin in a short time frame ! Maintenance care – Designed to quickly allow the skin to regain its natural healthy look, minimise the appearance of ageing and support the skin through preventative measures Many different “corrective” modalities have been developed over the years. Ultimately, the method remains the same – the outer layers of the skin are damaged or injured in some way to generate regrowth of new skin layers. This approach will normally lead to an improvement in the appearance of the skin.

The mediums used to achieve this are heat (laser and intense pulsed light), a variety of chemical peels (deep, medium and superficial) or mechanical (dermabrasion, microdermabrasion or skin needling).

After is not well understood. Thousands of applications over 50 years have resulted in an enviable record of effectiveness and safety.

Provided the treatment is applied correctly the epidermal barrier is not compromised, eliminating the risk of infection.

Since early civilisation humans have kept records of plants that have beneficial value – which may be useful as foods and which should be avoided. This information has been recorded in ancient herbal manuscripts and passed by word of mouth from generation to generation. Modern scientific tests have proven many of the beneficial properties ascribed to various plants.

Research is continuing.

Unlike traditional skin-resurfacing methodologies, herbal peeling does not just rely on the skin’s natural healing response for a beneficial outcome. Active substances contained in the plants are made available to the skin in combinations and dosages that cannot be matched in products sourced from a laboratory. So what are some of these plants?

Horsetail (equisetum arvense) contains the highest percentage known of silicic acid of any plant. This compound is an important component found in numerous tissues, including our connective tissue, collagen and elastin. Clinical tests conducted in Unna, Germany have shown that the application of horsetail results in a firming of the skin, with increased elasticity.

Marigold (calendula officinalis) was considered so important that the seed was taken to the Americas by the early settlers. Its topical healing activity has been demonstrated in clinical trials with burns, scalds and wounds. It has been found to reduce inflammatory reaction, is soothing to the skin and accelerates healing.

Corrective treatments carry some measure of risk. Side-effects, though infrequent, can be severe and lasting. Destruction of the pilo-sebaceous unit will result in healing by scar tissue.

Following deep chemical peels the skin can develop an unnatural, plastic-like appearance. As a result, laser resurfacing and deep peels have been losing popularity.

German chamomile (chamomilla recutita) is today’s most explored medicinal plant. Its primary active component is αbisabolol . It has proven anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial effects. The action of German chamomile is invaluable in cases of irritated, reddened and sensitive skin.

PEELING THROUGH THE HERBAL APPROACH

Pansy (viola tricoloris) is named in ancient texts as ‘the herb for girls with blemished skin’. It contains a variety of active

Herbal peeling is an alternative skin-resurfacing treatment that APJ 62

substances that seem to have a positive effect in cases of impure and acneic skin.

Ribwort (plantago lanceolata) was known as the ‘First Aid Plant’. It is used for external treatment of wounds and to stop bleeding. The plant has the ability to destroy a wide range of micro-organisms and stimulates epithelialisation, the formation of new skin cells.

These brief descriptions don’t do justice to the richness in nutritional content of these plants, including vitamins, minerals and trace elements and their actions (antiseptic, astringent, demulcent, styptic, cytophylactic) that make up the compound used in herbal peeling. From time to time we read about the importance of minerals and trace elements such as zinc, magnesium, copper, selenium, silicium, iron, phosphorus and more. Yet no man-made formulation comes close to supplying a complete, well-rounded and synergistically active combination of these vital ingredients as do these herbs. Once massaged into the skin, these herbs slowly release their bioactive ingredients over two to three days. Doses are minute (we talk of a ‘millionths of a gram’), yet compared to regular delivery systems they are massive. They reinvigorate the skin in a way that differs fundamentally from the methodology of traditional skin resurfacing, i.e. the destruction of outer skin layers followed by healing.

THE ROLE OF INFLAMMATION By its very nature a corrective procedure involves stress, irritation and inflammation of the skin. Inflammation has been named as a core cause of all skin abnormalities and should be kept to a minimum. It is one of the main reasons why daily application of products containing aggressive peeling agents is losing support with a growing number of experts. Following every corrective procedure it is advisable to apply skincare products based on biomimetic principles. They will allow the skin to recover quicker and to regain its natural, healthy appearance.

Inflammation is related to many processes in the skin.

Following excessive exposure to the sun it can be observed as erythema. The healing process that follows a corrective procedure is accompanied by inflammation, as is a state of excessive dehydration of the skin. Inflammation as part of a healing process is to be welcomed; chronic or long-term inflammation must be avoided because it destroys collagen and elastic fibres and contributes to ageing.

During the re-epithelialisation phase of a skin-resurfacing procedure the barrier function of the skin is impaired, leading to excessive transepidermal water loss (TEWL). The skin reacts to this perceived external threat with an inflammatory response, hypersensitivity and oedema. At this stage it is vital to replenish the lipids in the stratum corneum to rapidly rebuild the skin’s protective barrier function, leading to better hydration, a significant reduction in erythema and faster reversal of the inflammation process. A well-formulated moisturiser will encourage re-epithelialisation, decrease skin sensitivity and lessen the chance of scarring.

IDENTIFYING THE BEST VEHICLE IN A MOISTURISER Extensive research has been directed to the hydration properties of different emulsion types. It has been found that light waterin-oil (W/O) preparations are significantly more effective at protecting the skin against loss of moisture. They are the preferred choice following procedures that may lead to a temporary weakening of the stratum corneum barrier.

Re-epithelialisation and rapid recovery of the skin can be supported with the inclusion of actives. These ingredients are carefully selected to create an environment that is optimal for cellular repair and the re-establishment of the epidermal barrier.

Recent research has focused on peptides for their ability to support and speed the healing process. Vitamins, anti-oxidants and skin-identical substances such as natural moisturising factors contribute greatly to a successful outcome. W/O emulsions have been proven to deliver significantly higher levels of bioactive ingredients compared to oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions. This may in part be due to their inherently better hydration properties as studies have confirmed that wellhydrated skin will absorb up to 10 times the quantity of an active ingredient compared to dehydrated skin. As an added benefit, W/O formulations typically contain lower and less-sensitising levels of potential irritants, such as preservatives and emulsifiers.

Traditionally, skincare products containing acids, high levels of vitamin C or vitamin A have been used for maintenance of the skin. These are now increasingly seen as contributing to inflammation in the skin. Symptoms are redness, flaking and dehydration of the skin, or as one therapist put it “the skin looks to be struggling”. Periods of inflammation, such as experienced during a corrective procedure, should be kept as brief as possible. Long-term skin maintenance should be designed to reproduce the conditions found on young, healthy skin. These biomimetic skincare creams are gentle, working with the skin rather than breaking it down, leading to a significant and speedy reduction in levels of inflammation.

CONCLUSION The combination of herbal peeling with W/O skincare based on biomimetic principles enables the skin therapist to deliver a well-balanced skincare program for skin renewal with longlasting benefit. The advantage of this methodology offers the following benefits: ! Corrective phase – Delivers high-level results with low risk ! Short inflammatory phase – The inflammatory phase of the corrective treatment is kept brief. New skin is apparent after just five days ! Supporting home care – Followed by calming, supporting and balancing daily care. ! Solutions for problematic skin conditions – Excellent results have been seen with skin problems like acne, scarring, sun damage, pigmentation and wrinkles ! Anti-ageing – The appearance of prematurely aged and sun damaged skin is improved. ! Preventive – The appearance of signs of ageing is delayed.

The results are an optimal balance, leading to a fresher, younger and healthier appearance of the skin.

Paul Fister has been involved in the building and management of beauty therapy businesses since 1982. After taking on the Australian/New Zealand distributorship for two major German skin care lines he was guided by leading German dermatologists and cosmetic formulators in his study of skin care products and their effects on the skin. Since 1996 he has been involved in hands-on training with aestheticians all over Australia and New Zealand. He has presented papers at seminars and conference and lectures on subjects ranging from skin care to business development and management. Paul holds qualifications in Business Management from Switzerland.

Completed the degree of Bachelor of Business (Marketing) in Melbourne and regularly holds training and development programs for aestheticians around Australia. Paul is the director of OmniDerm Pty. Ltd., Melbourne.

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FURTHER EDUCATION, TRAINING & CONSULTANCY LASER/IPL QUALIFICATIONS & TRAINING Company: CSHE Australia Pty Ltd Contact: Metro-Dora Clifford Ph: 1800 628 999 Email:miriam@clinicalskincare.com.au www.clinicalskincare.com.au Training: CSHE Laser Safety Officer’s Courses approved by QLD Radiation & Health * Code: No.ED125 (Prerequisite of Standard LSO Course Code: No.ED054) * Code: No.ED054 (Standard LSO Course) Organisation: Australian Institute of Laser Therapy Contact: Tina Czech Ph: 1300 887 344 www.ailt.com.au Training and qualifications in: * Laser Safety Certificate Laser Science and Safe Use of Laser and Intense Pulsed Light (21711VIC) * Graduate Certificate distance and classroom learning Clinical Laser Therapy and Intense Pulsed Light for Dermatology and Scar Repair (21713VIC) * Graduate Certificate in Clinical Laser Therapy for Musculoskeletal Conditions, Pain and Wound Healing (21713VIC) Organisation: Fuss Beauty College Contact: Ilse Taumberger Ph: 02 9326 2211 Email: info@fuss.com.au www.fuss.com.au Qualifications in: * Intense Pulsed Light Hair Reduction (91378NSW) * Intense Pulsed Light for Skin Rejuvenation (91377NSW).

PUBLICITY AND MARKETING Company: NonStopPR Contact: Wendy Neely Ph: 02 9684 6729 Mob: 0438 911 017 Email: nonstoppr@optusnet.com.au Consultantion: * PR * Marketing Company: Brand New Solutions Contact: Gill Fish Ph: 028356 9595 Mob: 0400200 441 Email: gfish@brandnewsolutions.com.au www.brandnewsolutions.com.au Services in: Business to Consumer PR; Business to Business PR; Brand Management

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BUSINESS COACHING Company: Nelson Beauty Business Management Contact: Caroline Nelson Ph: 0410 600 440 nelsonbeautybusinessmanagement.com * Salon Business Coaching/Consulting * Salon Marketing * Seminar presentations Company: Carbis Business Coaching Contact: Paul Carbis Ph: 0418 983 145 Email: paulcarbis@bigpond.com * Salon Business Coaching/Consulting * Salon Marketing * Seminar presentations

GOVERNMENT COMPLIANCE/SEMINARS Company: Aesthetic Educators Contact: Terry Everitt Ph: 0414 483757 Email: terryeveritt@gmail.com Training and Consultation: * Educational Compliance * Objective Educational Seminars

TGA COMPLIANCE Company: Medical Technology Contact: Dr. Derrick Beech Ph: 02 9552 2229 Ph: 0412445903 www.medicaltechnology.com Consultancy: TGA compliance

ADVANCED SKIN ANALYSIS Company: Advanced Aesthetics Contact: Gay Wardle PaticheÂŽ Method of Advanced Skin Analysis Ph: 0418 708 455 Email: info@ozabart.onfo Training: Various Modules and Levels on the Pastiche Method of Advanced Skin Analysis

FELLOWSHIP & SEMINARS Organisation: AustralAsian Academy of Anti-Ageing Medicine Contact: Helen Anton Ph: 03 9813 0439 Email: helena@a5m.net www.a5m.net The AustralAsian Fellowship program is led by a world-class faculty of AntiAgeing physicians headed by Pamela W. Smith, M.D., M.P.H. and Bill Anton, BSc.(Hons), PhD, ABAARM, AACNEM.

Open to General Practitioners, Medical Specialists and other health professionals including physician assistants, cosmetic and plastic surgeons, aestheticians, scientists, naturopaths, chiropractors, osteopaths, nutritionists, sports clinicians and physical fitness trainers, nurse clinicians and pharmacists.

Fellowship Modules include: * Advanced Nutrition and Detoxification * Introduction to Anti-Ageing Medicine and Advanced Hormone Therapy * Anti-Ageing Medicine and Coronary Artery Disease * Gastroenterology, Neurology, and Fatty Acid Metabolism * Clinical Intensives: Case Studies in Anti-Ageing Medicine for everyday practice.

Upcoming Fellowship Modules: * Fellowship in Anti-Ageing, Regenerative and Functional Medicine

COSMETIC TATTOO Company: Cosmetic Tattoo Australia Contact: Val Glover-Hovan Ph: 02 9938 2111 Email: sales@cosmetictattooaustralia.com Full training and refresher courses in Cosmetic Tattoo Company: Australian Institute of Permanent Makeup Contact: Faye Rielly Ph: 07 5530 5411 Email: abeautyconcepts@bigpond.com One-on-one training Full training and refresher courses in Cosmetic Tattoo

AYRVEDIC THERAPIES Company: OmVeda Contact: YasminSadiko Ph: 1300 662 383 Email: yasmin@omveda.com.au www.omveda.com.au Training: Traditional Ayurvedic principles in face and body treatments

PIERCING Company: JMR Australia Pty Ltd Contact: John Rice Ph: 02 9899 7922 Email: jmr@jmraus.com Training: Ear, nose and navel piercing.

APAN has evidence that the above training providers deliver credible training programs and services for further education or business growth.

However, their inclusion here does not necessarily constitute APAN endorsement.

Introducin

g

VitaminmoreC-Plus Serum than just a luxurious indulgence

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Stimulates the cell metabolism, refines the pores, acts against blemishes

Biomimetic formulation Mimic what nature has perfected to achieve soft, smooth, velvety skin with significantly reduced levels of inflammation and oxidation

For more information visit everyskin.com.au or call 1300 301 007

bio-energetics

The role of bio-energetic medicine in Anti-ageing and Wellness Dzung Price PhD

Dr Price is a very passionate advocate of health and quality of life and believes that this can be within the reach of everyone.

In this article she presents the historical context and principles of bio-energetic medicine and identifies changes that we can make to ensure anti-ageing benefits, increased energy levels and improve our quality of life.

APJ1. As a conventionally trained doctor now working in the field of bio-energetic medicine, please share your wisdom.

Dr Price: I’ve never been afraid to explore new territory when it comes to improving my patients’ health. After studying nutritional and environmental medicine, herbal medicine, acupuncture, anti-ageing medicine and bio-energetic medicine, I discovered that for certain patients the application of bio-energetic medicine has accelerated their return to health and wellness using gentle, quick, non-invasive techniques and technology. Bio-energies encourage regeneration and restoration of cells and skin tissues.

Bio-energy medicine works because the human body is designed to heal itself. It’s in a constant state of growth, repair and adaptation. We’re discovering that leading-edge external energy applications actually boost the body’s healing abilities and offer other benefits. By improving the body’s regulatory systems and energies, self-healing accelerates.

Leading biophysicists claim that practitioners should stimulate the body's own repair and defence systems with energy. Today’s precise measuring tools have confirmed ancient Chinese and Indian energy-healing systems. Traditional Chinese medicine (TCM) is based on energy and information, not the physical matter of the body. TCM is circular, flexible and flowing.

Acupuncture is perhaps TCM's best-known method for reestablishing the healthy flow of energy along the meridians (energy channels) of the body.

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Chi, the underlying energy of the universe in TCM, flows in and around bodies. As described in The Yellow Emperor’s Classic of Internal Medicine (400 B.C.), Chi has the same characteristics as a quantum energy field: when it condenses, it has a visible shape; when it disperses, it disappears to the human eye. In a nutshell, any disruption in our energy field eventually leads to a visible manifestation we can see.

Western researchers have tried to link the energy meridians to the nervous, circulatory or other physical systems without success. But they did find that radio-isotopes, injected at acupuncture points, travel the known meridians and that isotopes injected in veins and lymph channels don’t. This confirms the existence of meridians, but doesn’t explain what they are.

Newer research tells us that meridians are “liquid crystalline water-bound collagen fibres” located in connective tissue between organs, that they’re sensitive to electrical, magnetic, chemical and other environmental factors, and that energy flows through them in only one direction, exactly as described thousands of years ago.

APJ 2. How is an understanding of energy and healing relevant to the aesthetic industry?

Dr Price: Here’s just one example. Cosmetic acupuncture isn’t new. Many actresses and movie stars in New York enjoy its benefits. It has been practised in China for thousands of years. Acupressure was also used for centuries by Chinese Dynasty Emperors and their courtesans to treat a variety of health concerns. Women of the royal court regularly massaged special points on their face and body to maintain youth and beauty. Used on specific points of the face, it stimulates the meridians and improves muscle tone, circulation and skin contraction, which helps eliminate fine lines and wrinkles.

Totally natural, cosmetic acupressure works with the body’s energy –a great alternative to costly, often painful medical and chemical treatments.

Stress, illness, smoking, sun damage, cosmetic contaminants, poor diet, environmental toxins and certain invasive aesthetic treatments cause low skin energy. Without chi (energy), movement within skin is poor, so it’s less able to absorb, process and regenerate effectively. Low skin energy speeds the ageing process and can contribute to broken capillaries, fine lines, sensitive skin, breakouts and dehydrated skin.

Beauty is not just skin deep: it radiates from the inside out.

When our energy is flowing smoothly, our blood is abundant, and our organs are strong, beauty reveals itself externally.

APJ 3. Is actual rejuvenation possible?

Dr Price: We now understand, scientifically, many aspects of body chemistry that were unknown 10 years ago. Modern medical discoveries have opened ways to delay the ageing process for years and, to a degree, even reverse it. Whatever your age, we now have ways to add quality and vitality to the very end.

Everyone willing to follow sound advice can be rejuvenated.

The battle against ageing begins before menopause. I advise all patients that anti-ageing and optimal beauty are really all about removing obstacles to healing, rebuilding cellular health, optimising energy and restoring hormones back to youthful levels.

To whatever degree a person is committed to eating the right foods, detoxifying regularly, taking adequate nutritional supplements, minimising stress, exercising regularly and forming good sleep habits, they are engaged in anti-ageing and beauty to that degree. Any sound anti-ageing measure is good for the skin and complexion.

Our goal is to restore beauty, energy and health with a combination of Eastern philosophy, Western science, nature’s healing powers and technology. All of our skin care products are imprinted with special frequencies and energies that enhance and beautify the human body and its cellular matrix.

APJ 4. Is there is a link between energy/wellness and beauty and youthfulness?

Dr. Price: Whenever our physical energies are out of balance, we have skin and health issues. These signs are a call from within to re-balance and restore our natural harmony. Knowing how to maintain and restore our energy is vital to our physical, emotional and mental wellbeing and appearance. All living organisms emit a specific energy frequency, which ripples around them. A healthy human emits a frequency between 62 to 71 Hz when awake. An ill person emits a frequency of 58 Hz or lower.

Ageing and diseases are the result from the body’s reaction to intoxication. When we optimise energy, we enhance or kick start the body's natural healing mechanisms to restore health and beauty. Some of the most gentle, rapid, non-invasive and effective treatments I have seen borrow concepts from bioenergetic medicine and homoeopathy.

The body is a holistic system – all organs and systems work together in a perfect way. When energy is low, several body systems function less well and may even shut down. For example, kidney problems can reveal themselves as dark spots under the eyes. A weak liver can show up with skin impurities,

broken capillaries and a red, swollen nose. And we have all seen that how a tired, low-energy person can look older than his or her years, while an older person with vibrant energies still looks radiant and youthful. The key is to restore optimal energy balance and flow for maximum health and beauty.

APJ 5. What’s on your list of the five most positive things to tell every woman about beauty?

Dr Price: 1. Most of us feel that our appearance lacks something. Toxic accumulations from excesses in our body are responsible for stealing our health, youthfulness and beauty. Natural beauty can be “buried alive” beneath retained fluids, fat deposits and layers of sick tissues. If you take the right action to rejuvenate yourself from the inside out, to detoxify and cleanse the cellular matrix, your renewed beauty may surprise, and will definitely delight you.

2. Natural beauty is part of our authenticity, far beyond human craft and creativity. I see many unhappy women who see themselves as less than they truly are, putting on false masks to please or seek approval, while holding themselves back from being fully self-expressed authentic individuals. Loving and accepting yourself as the magnificent organism you already are, in spite of your lovable human flaws, allows your natural beauty to radiate through from within. Take things less seriously.

Laugh a lot and enjoy life!

3. In Traditional Chinese medicine, chi energy is blocked whenever fluid is blocked. Being sedentary, chemical toxins, negative thinking and emotional blockages all act to pollute our body, devitalise our energy pathway, and lower our vitality. To counteract, go outside and breathe deeply, exercise regularly to move your sluggish lymphatic system and stay strong, flexible and vital. Eat the best food possible and reclaim amazing skin.

4. Treat yourself first class – don’t allow low-quality or toxic products to touch your skin or enter your body. You deserve better.

5. Beauty comes from inside. Tranquil, positive thoughts, show up on your face in fewer lines and wrinkles – anger, grief and resentment show up very differently. Resolve to be happy.

Dr Dzung Price is a holistic integrated medical practitioner with qualifications in Nutrition and Environmental Medicine, Naturopathy, Acupuncture, Bioenergetic Medicine and Homotoxicology. Using this comprehensive array of healing modalities, cutting-edge medical technology and selfempowerment solutions, Dzung works to address the root causes of disease and the lack of wellness in her patients. Working closely with a talented team, Dzung’s approach is to restore optimal health by removing the obstacles so that the body creates agelessness and wellness in mind, body and spirit through clinics in Brisbane and on the Gold Coast. Dzung is well known for her groundbreaking work in the field of allergy medicine and nutrition. She is the author of Your Allergy Free Child, 7 Day Detox Guide and Younger, Healthier Skin at Any Age. She is the co-founder of CHI Health Innovations, a company devoted to the provision of bio-energised natural health products for wellness and beauty. www.chihealthinnovations.com

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ingredient science

Factors affecting ingredient penetration for antioxidant and vitamin serums

By Dr Des Fernandes We are aware of the importance of using vitamins and antioxidants in helping us achieve the necessary results that our clients have come to expect from us as skin therapists. However, how do these work and what factors affect their performance and their penetration? In this article Dr Des Fernandes offers insight into these critical issues.

Percutaneous delivery of vitamins and antioxidants has the advantage of avoiding metabolism by the gastrointestinal tract and has the advantage of delivering high doses of active ingredients to the skin where they are required so that stores of the active can be built. We have to remember that in fact transdermal delivery is only across the epidermis and in specific, the stratum corneum. Only once the drug penetrates below the stratum corneum, and especially the dermis, can be absorbed by the capillaries and in fact taken away from the skin itself. Molecules can also be metabolised in the skin similar to the effect of the liver on molecules absorbed in the GIT!. Of course sometimes this may inactivate the molecule, but at other times the molecule may be converted into its more specific metabolic form e.g. retinyl palmitate or acetate being converted by esterase enzymes in skin cells into retinol (vitamin A).

THE ISSUE OF STABILITY Before giving further thought on how to ensure penetration of antioxidants and vitamins into skin, one has to first ensure that the vitamins and antioxidants are still stable and active in the serum. The reason for this is that antioxidants and many vitamins are active chemicals that react with other chemicals. A

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good example is vitamin C that is commonly used in cosmetic products. Ascorbic acid in solution is extremely reactive to oxygen, light, heat and metals, so it should be kept in airless dispensers that block out light (particularly Blue Light), and in order to stabilise it, it should be kept at as low a pH as feasible.

During the manufacturing process all antioxidants should ideally be protected from air with a "nitrogen blanket" and should be made under red light to keep the vitamins as safe as possible. Vitamins A and B12 are particularly susceptible to light and need to be in dark containers. One also has to consider the formulation so that the antioxidants and vitamins remain stable in the final product. Some vitamins such as vitamin C (ascorbic acid), once dissolved in water, have a very limited shelf life of about three weeks before they become oxidised and inactive. Water-soluble variants of vitamin C (e.g. magnesium, Ascorbyl, phosphate, etc), although more stable, are also rather reactive and may only have a shelf life of about six months, whereas the esters of ascorbic acid (especially Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate) are much more stable and have a shelf life of over 18 months. By using esters, particularly palmitic acid esters, we can keep the active ingredient protected and be

Ionisation: In addition a drug that can be ionised will pass through a membrane better in the un-ionised form. This means that weak acids will cross better at a pH lower than the pKa. However, the ionised form of a drug is more soluble, and a drug must be in solution to be absorbed!

certain that it will be more easily absorbed into the cell where the active antioxidant or vitamin can be released by metabolic processes in the cell. Another effective way to protect antioxidants is to ensure that the formula is enriched with other antioxidants.

!

THE DELIVERY INTO THE SKIN

DELIVERY SYSTEMS

We then have the problem of getting the antioxidant or vitamins into the skin, and particularly into the cell cytoplasm. Here we have to consider the solubility of the ingredient that we want to get into the cell. Water-soluble ingredients have an inherent difficulty of getting through the stratum corneum as well as the cell wall, because these areas are virtually impermeable to water-soluble molecules. On the other hand, lipid soluble molecules can penetrate the stratum corneum and the cell wall easier because lipids have a greater chance to diffuse through them. The reason for this is the structure of the stratum corneum, which is only 0.01-0.02 mm thick!

The stratum corneum, which is the real protective barrier of the skin, consists of dead flat cells filled with keratin (corneocytes) that are surrounded by lipid bilayers.

These lipid bilayers are arranged in double molecular layers with outer lipid-soluble and inner water-soluble components arranged in a mirror image fashion. This structure forms the granules seen on the periphery of the granulocytes and then gets extruded into the intercellular space. These lamellar bodies fill the intercellular space and their highly organised lipid bilayers are responsible for the impervious nature of the stratum corneum.

The lipophilic layers make the stratum corneum resistant to virtually all water-based molecules. This is the watershed area where external water is kept out and internal water is kept in.

Everything deeper than the stratum granulosum is mainly water-based.

From what I have described, it is easy to see that the formulation of creams that are intended to penetrate is vastly different from formulae used for standard cosmetics. Most cosmetic companies are not interested in getting penetration of their products. A great deal of marketing has concentrated on liposomes that theoretically offer a solution to the dilemma posed above. The classical liposome is a sphere with a lipidsoluble outer wall that is filled by the less-soluble active ingredient that is released once the liposome has passed the stratum corneum. The problem is that the liposome may be so fragile that it releases its contents on the surface of the stratum corneum. On the other hand, if the liposome is more stable it may not release its contents after it has passed the stratum granulosum.

Before giving further thought on how to ensure penetration of antioxidants and vitamins into skin, one has to first ensure that the vitamins and antioxidants are still stable and active in the serum. The reason for this is that antioxidants and many vitamins are active chemicals that react with other chemicals.

It is believed that drugs penetrate through the stratum corneum in a para-cellular route, so they have to traverse through the lipid bilayers. This requires the drug to be quite lipid soluble.

This resistance to the ingress of water also means that any water-based ingredient will not be able to penetrate into the skin. An example of this is ascorbic acid that is water-soluble and is not at all lipid-soluble. One therefore has to use very high concentrations of ascorbic acid in order to get only tiny amounts into the skin. However, the acidic effects do help to destabilise the lamellar bodies and allow ascorbic acid through the stratum corneum in small doses. It might be that the water-soluble molecules are transported in the double aqueous central regions of the lipid bi-layers.

FACTORS THAT AFFECT ABSORPTION Many factors can affect the rate and extent of absorption of a topically applied vitamin or antioxidant. There are a number of paradoxical situations: ! The solubility of the drug: Because the horny layer is a lipophilic layer, oil-based products will pass through easier than water-based products. However, the deeper tissue will absorb active ingredients in an aqueous solution more rapidly than a drug that is dissolved in an oily solution. So the drug needs to be water-soluble and fat-soluble at the same time for optimal absorption.

Newer formulations concentrate on adapting the lipid bilayers.

Sodium Laurylethylsulphate (SLES) destabilises the lipid bilayers quite significantly, and chronic use can make the stratum corneum far too permeable and not retain epidermal water and the skin becomes very dry. Other ingredients are penetrant enhancers that temporarily interfere with the lipid bilayers to allow enhanced penetration of topically applied products. Examples of penetrant enhancers are alcoholic-based molecules such as propylene glycol, and lipids such as capriccaprillic triglyceride, and others such as Transcutol. There are very many penetrant enhancers.

The next difficulty is getting active vitamins through the cell membrane itself, which is pretty impermeable. The cell wall has numerous specific receptor areas on it that allow the passage of vitamins and some antioxidants into the cell. The strange fact is that there seems to be no receptor for vitamin C. Most cells transport vitamin C solely in its oxidised form, dehydroascorbic acid, through facilitative glucose transporters. One can also speculate that vitamin C might be preferentially kept in the intercellular space, where it has a vital role in recycling vitamin E, which is the most important antioxidant for protecting cellular membranes.

Penetration into skin is fraught with difficulties, which is why very often only tiny fractions of what is applied actually gets to the keratinocytes. However, there are a number of ways to enhance penetration and ensure that the applied vitamins do get to the target cells.

NEEDLING AND SKIN PENETRATION The first is to temporarily puncture the stratum corneum by using fine metal needles that penetrate the epidermis less than 0.1 mm and are consequently virtually painless. Needling allows safe, affordable treatment of the stratum corneum because the needle holes are temporary. Once a molecule has APJ 69

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passed through the stratum corneum then most of the obstruction to penetration has been removed. Enhanced penetration like this may mean that antioxidants and vitamins may even be absorbed into the bloodstream, provided that transport systems exist for them to be taken into the blood stream. A notable exception to this is vitamin A, which seems relatively trapped in the skin, and only free retinol may be absorbed in small amounts into the blood stream. Retinol has to join on to retinol binding proteins and the enzymatic process for doing that is in the liver and not in the skin. Micro-skin needling is an excellent method to ensure adequate penetration of all vitamins and antioxidants. However, one should be aware that applied topical ascorbic acid would sting intensely after the skin has been needled.

USING TECHNOLOGIES More specialised techniques to enhance penetration are through the use of iontophoresis and low-frequency sonophoresis.

Although high frequency ultrasound is commonly used it is relatively useless at enhancing penetration. One can in general enhance penetration equally through skin by using a plastic film wrap that helps to a small degree.

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One can expect up to four times better penetration by using scientific iontophoresis provided that the molecule is watersoluble and can be ionised at a physiological pH. If one uses the incorrect polarity or a badly formulated gel then this may not work so efficiently.

By using low-frequency sonophoresis one can expect up to 40 times better penetration than simple application (under laboratory conditions) due to the temporary cavitation of the stratum corneum and cellular membranes. This is the most effective method to enhance penetration that is currently known, however, there are limited machines available to be used clinically. The author is only aware of Sonoprep, which is extremely useful for small areas and the Environ DF Machine, which combines iontophoresis and sonophoresis and can be used for treating large areas. However, very few people can manage to have more than weekly treatments with these machines.

CONCLUSION When applying a topical vitamin or antioxidant one has to be confident that the product contains the intended concentrations of vitamins and has been formulated to ensure their stability before delivery to the skin. Then one needs to be sure that penetrant enhancers have been included in the formula so that the vitamins and antioxidants can penetrate the outer layer of the skin. Mechanical tiny punctures in the stratum corneum can ensure significantly better penetration. Electricity and sound may also be used to enhance penetrations but from a practical point of view, micro skin needling still offers the best solution to ensuring delivery of vitamin, and antioxidants into skin.

Dr Des Fernandes graduated with an M.B. and B.Ch. in Johannesburg in 1966 and then became a fellow of the Royal College of Surgeons of Edinburgh in 1973. Initially he trained as a cardio-thoracic surgeon, but then trained in Plastic and Reconstructive surgery from 1975.

From 1979 till 2000 he was Consultant in Charge of the Cleft Lip and Palate Unit at Red Cross War Memorial Children's Hospital in Cape Town. In 1979 he entered private practice and worked with David Davies until he retired in 1998. From the mid 1980s he started to produce cosmeceutical products for his patients, which eventually lead, due to public demand to the formulation of the Environ skincare range, which is now available through 60 countries.

Progressively over the years he have taken a special interest in cosmetic surgery for younger patients using "scar-less" techniques.

From 1997, he started to explore the effects of needling skin, which lead to the development of Percutaneous Collagen Induction.

His and her

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training

WORKPLACE – The new Training Revolution

by Jeannie Chapman As an advisory network APAN has a vision for improving the opportunities for educational and training delivery and supports credible training programs that make this possible. We recognise the 1to1 Beauty Therapy Training Workplace Initiative as having a valid place in the training landscape of Australia, and in particular, in regional and remote locations where the opportunities are restricted because of demographics.

This article presented by Jeannie Chapman, principal of 1to1 outlines this training model and what it hopes to achieve in helping improve the training standards in the aesthetics industry.

Within the aesthetic industry recruitment of staff has always stimulated heated discussion. Most of the discontent has centred on the issues of having to retrain new graduates, or once having trained an employee to a point of productivity they leave to later appear in a salon down the street. The one issue we can agree on is that Senior Beauty Therapists can be excellent trainers.

Salon owners understand that it is in their interest to invest time and effort in training staff. However jaded we may feel about employees who train and run, it’s time to look again and meet the challenge for change. The face of training has altered across all industries, giving emphasis to the value of training on the job to ensure industry relevance. The traditional system of tuition and work operating oblivious to each other no longer works. It is progressively replaced by workplace training, particularly in remote areas, where training facilities are limited. This addresses the chasm between work and learning, fostering the principles of learning by experience.

You may ask that given the time and effort it takes to train in the salon, why would any salon owner want to train on the job?

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Those who currently conduct workplace training claim they were already retraining graduates with bad habits, before they realised that they could have delivered the total training program and been paid for their effort.

The concept becomes more attractive when considering the advantages. To offer accredited training in the workplace enhances the business mix. Training utilises salon resources during low trading times and the salon owner gets to take a pick from the best recruits for future staffing needs. Salon owners may cringe at the idea of training someone who’ll one day be their opposition, but a trainee who is determined to become a salon owner will do so, whoever trains them. Yet for every trainee that receives quality training the overall profile and value of our industry is lifted.

A NEW TRAINING MODEL Our training organisation is well ahead with the workplace program with more than 20 Salon centres across Australia delivering Beauty Therapy training under a partnership agreement. With more than five years of workplace delivery, 1to1 has refined the system so as it can be delivered anywhere.

Of particular interest is trainees from remote or isolated regions, who otherwise have no opportunity to train. Under the 1to1 Learner engagement program they encourage courses such as the “Mum friendly program”, which operates only in school hours with no attendance required in school holidays.

WHY TRAIN THROUGH YOUR LOCAL SALON? So who would be interested in a training program through their local salon? Apart from retail consultants involved in make-up and cosmetics in larger stores and pharmacies those who like to undertake short courses, school leavers, or therapists who have

Work-based training is not suitable for all recruits, who undergo an assessment and filtration process before selected. A student needs to demonstrate initiative to undertake research and study independently of their trainer. They need to show team work and communication skills as they progress within their training. been out of the workplace and want to refresh or upgrade their skills, and most importantly, staff members. Trainees do not have to attend full time. Under the new legislation all work deemed competent is completely based on performance. A distinct advantage of training in the local salon is the quality of the resources offered. Once proven that the trainee is able to perform tasks and all the evidence of their training collected then they are competent. Once all competencies are achieved then the student is eligible for a qualification.

Work-based training is not suitable for all recruits, who undergo an assessment and filtration process before selected.

A student needs to demonstrate initiative to undertake research and study independently of their trainer. They need to show teamwork and communication skills as they progress within their training.

With this type of training their reward at the end is not just a qualification, but a “qualification with experience”. It is that time in the workplace that has afforded them growth and insight into what is expected of them as a fully qualified therapist.

WHAT IS NEEDED? The 1to1 Training System is Government accredited and operates under a flexible learning program with specialised programs for interactive learning. It encourages a culture of learning within the salons under its auspice, offering upgrades for staff members to acquire currency, undertake Trainer training programs and participate in professional development. There is a stringent recruitment process for salons wishing to be involved, whereby they are required to submit an “Expression of Interest” along with evidence of their qualifications. 1to1 takes a holistic view to educational pathways within the beauty industry – one based on knowledge sharing, industry validation and encompasses a community of practice.

The excitement and interest in the 1to1 program is growing along with the numbers of students who are attracted to the flexibility of hours, the freedom to study off site, and the attention to individual learners’ needs. Salon owners are beginning to enjoy not only the additional income, but also the opportunities for furthering theirs and their staff’s education. Furthermore, they also enjoy the knowledge of belonging to a wider group of practitioners sharing an interest in training and developing the future workforce.

MEET THE CHALLENGE OF CHANGE Join the new TRAINING REVOLUTION and provide WORKPLACE GOVERNMENT ACCREDITED TRAINING in your salon.

The 1to1 Beauty Therapy Training Workplace Initiative offers candidates from remote and isolated areas a unique opportunity to gain qualifications and experience, while it brings an environment of education and energy to the training salons.

THIS IS AN OPPORTUNITY TO: ! Participate in quality recruiting and training standards ! Be part of a community of practice ! Develop your own talents and qualifications ! Increase cash flow For an expression of interest document or to learn more about the 1to1 Beauty

Therapy Training Workplace Initiative phone on 03 9886 7979 or email admin@beautytherapytraining.edu.au Visit our website on www.beautytherapytraining.edu.au APJ 73

skin science however it is not a given that if parents have it, their children will inherit the genes. In fact, most people with vitiligo do not have a family history of the disorder.

Cell-destroying cytokines Another theory is that melanocytes destroy themselves by producing proteins called cytokines that can alter the cellular structure and cause apoptosis (cellular suicide).

Auto-immune disfunction We know there is an auto-immune characteristic,as part of the wider leukodermic conditions; although it is unknown why it appears as patches on the skin, rather than depigmenting the entire skin.

Stress Stress has been found to be a precipitating factor for the development of vitiligo either in the initial presentation, or giving cause to the rapid increase in depigmentation. Finally, some people have reported that a single event such as sunburn or emotional distress triggered vitiligo, however, none of these events have been scientifically proven as causes of vitiligo in each case. Many people have stress or sunburn, or multiple other injuries that do not result in vitiligo.

I guess the only upside is the condition is not infectious, or contagious. It is not caused by microbial life, nor is it fungal as in pityriasis (or tinea) versiclour.

As you know, melanocytes are the cells in the stratum germinativum or basal layer that produce melanin as part of the skin’s protective mechanism. The production of melanin is a complicated process requiring many factors and enzymes to turn the various chemicals into melanin within organelles termed melanosomes, and then to get the melanin out through the dendrictic processes to the surrounding epidermal cells.

Vitiligo – Causes and treatment options

By Terry Everitt In the last edition of APJ, page 94 had a statement regarding Michael Jackson having vitiligo (and complicated with lupus,) which resulted in his skin colouration going many shades lighter over the years. In this article Terry tells how Michael managed to change colour and gives insight into the treatment of this skin condition.

It is said that in the stratum germinativum, approximately every 36th cell is a melanocyte and the surrounding area of cells is responsible for what is termed the melano-epidermal junction or unit.

Vitiligo (pronounced vit-ill-EYE-go) is one of the most difficult of skin conditions to treat in a salon setting. As you may agree, most clients present with the opposite concerns of hyperpigmentation, rather than a lack of pigment or hypopigmentation, which is the case with vitiligo. Simply put vitiligo is the presentation on the skin where the melanocyte is no longer functioning, thus unable to provide the normal skin colour. Vitiligo, along with albinism, is a subtype of leukoderma (white skin).

Vitiligo can occur at any age, although frequently first seen in individuals on their late 20s or early 30s. It is often seen as small patches of colour loss along the lateral neck, dorsal aspect of the hands or behind the knees, although of course, it can makes its appearance anywhere. In most cases the initial presentation remains stable in size for some time, and then begins to spread. Vitiligo affecting about 1 per cent of the population and is equally present in both males and females, and more noticeable on the naturally darker skins.

CAUSATIVE FACTORS While there still is no definitive causative factor to the condition, there are many theories.

Genetics

Vitiligo is associated with a number of autoimmune diseases and conditions: Thyroid disease, pernicious anaemia, hypoparathyroidism, Addison’s disease, diabetes. alopecia areata and myasthenia gravis.

It would appear there is a hereditary factor, most certainly a genetic one, in that those who develop vitiligo have in particular three genes that make them susceptible to depigmentation. Approximately 30 per cent of people with vitiligo have a family member with the disease, APJ 74

Depigmentation generally occurs symmetrically on both sides of the body, however not always as there is a segmental pattern, where it occurs only on one side. The depigmentation also affects the hair in the area, while in those of deeper colour, the mucus membranes are also affected.

The disorder is usually progressive, slowly spreading over a wider area of the body. A transitory condition is possible if the area is inflamed as this can interfere

with the melanoctye function, however, this is not long term (unless the inflammatory condition becomes long term). A biopsy will quickly determine the state of the melanocyte and surrounding cells to produce a definitive diagnosis.

While the unevenness and pattern of discolouration is of aesthetic concern, vitiligo is not harmful to the physical well being of the person, however, it can have a huge impact on one’s self-esteem, emotional and psychological wellbeing and this can be the biggest problem associated with vitiligo.

Feelings of embarrassment, being ashamed, depressed and worrying about how others will react to them is a constant concern.

Your treatment education and well-informed advice is important when addressing this condition. If there is some doubt if your client has vitiligo, or it is in the very early stages, look at the area under a Woods lamp. The area will show clearly with demarcation of the area. Of course you cannot make the diagnosis, however, you can (and should) suggest it be seen to by a dermatologist.

It all begins with being a good listener and being able to provide emotional support. Whatever you do, please do not give well meaning, but extremely insensitive advice like “At least you won’t die from it,” or “It could be worse”. For them not much else could make it worse. Blending in with peers and society is difficult if not impossible for contrasting skin tones preventing this from naturally happening.

CORRECTIVE COLOUR PROCEDURES Remedial makeup andCosmetic Tattooing There is very little ‘technical’ treatment available to the skin care practitioner and it really comes down to remedial makeup; either temporary or permanent. Both options require expertise in the application of colour and it is outside of this article’s scope to teach you remedial (camouflage) makeup and less so for micropigmentation.

Certainly the avoidance of tanning is essential – this may seem obvious to you, however, the client will probably try and get a tan in the hope that the colour might even out. Education is essential as to why this is not a great idea – having no melanocyte or one that simply is not producing melanin; thereby not protecting the skin will result in skin injury that will be quicker and more intense.

There are many benefits of remedial makeup, not the least of which is: ! Improving self-confidence ! Supporting emotional acceptance of what has happened in the physical realm.

The flipside to this is protecting the skin and sunblock is essential – don’t worry about the normal Fitzpatrick scale of protection as it does not apply here – the area affected with vitiligo is a Fitzpatrick 1, no matter if the surrounding skin may be a 6. Sunblock with SPF of 30, not sunscreen is required, ideally with micronised and nanoparticled zinc oxide. If the client is however a Fitzpatrick 1 or 2, then makeup with self tanning compound dihydroxyacetone may be useful, although this really depends on the client’s skin tone. It does not work for all (as I found out when first started playing with it). I don’t know if it is available in Australia, however in the USA, the homeopathic solution (tradename ‘Leucotin’) has proven to be helpful in some clients, although to be fair it does not seem to work for many clients. For those into homeopathic remedies, it is a combination of five individual solutions, each in different dilution strengths. I mention this not because you can prescribe it, but to give you an indication of other complementary methods available.

Antioxidants green tea extracts, folic acid, Vitamin C and quercetin are known to be helpful as antioxidants for

While cosmetic tattoo can be very useful in smaller areas, it is not usually recommended for larger areas, particularly when the vitiligo may continue to spread. Even the true experts in this field go slowly when treating vitiligo, so be very sure you have solid training in this field before assisting the client with vitiligo in repigmenting with “permanent” colour.

There are many benefits of remedial makeup, not the least of which is: ! Improving self- confidence ! Supporting emotional acceptance of what has happened in the physical realm.

Remedial makeup is ideal for individuals with lighter skin as it requires a light cream based cover with an overlay of translucent powder. However, those with darker skin have bigger concerns, as the colour difference is greater and more difficult to cover and harmonise with the surrounding natural skin colour.

Opaque, waterproof or theatrical makeup is needed, which requires skill in blending to surrounding areas. Specialist make up is available, such as Dermablend, which also contain sun block, an essential for those with vitiligo. Careful setting of the cream is required with powder for further waterproofing.

However, this type of makeup, when correctly applied, blends very well with the skin so that it does not look like makeup.

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melanocytes. The action is primarily attributed to reducing the oxidation of biopterin, a vitamin cofactor needed for tyrosine in melanin synthesis.

If the client is under PUVA treatment (see below) then increasing Vitamin E intake is a wise move as this helps prevent a lot of the oxidative stress (it appears not to have any effect on the vitiligo itself, however.)

It is also true that there is growing evidence that vitamin D levels are often low in those with autoimmune disease; whether this is a cause of the disease or a result of it is as yet unknown.

Sunlight in moderation (15 minutes a day, three-days a week) can help build up the vitamin D level and support the immune system, while also stimulating pigment cells. To balance this however is the fact that if the melanin is not being produced, then the skin is in greater danger of getting sun damage much quicker. A balancing act indeed where total sunblock is required on the depigmented areas, while allowing some short term sun exposure on the normally pigmented areas is the way to go for Vitamin D synthesis. Or you can forget all this and take Vitamin D supplements.

Herbal caution: If you are more on the herbal side of life then there is some evidence of herbal therapy being useful, however the results of studies are small and have not always been reproduced. People with autoimmune diseases, including vitiligo, must be cautious in the use of some herbs. Many, like Goldenseal, Astragalus, Echinacea and Spirulina are immune boosters. Generally this is a good thing and well worth taking.

However if the immune system is attacking the melanocytes, boosting it further with these types of herbs could be problematic.

What is true of all treatment modalities, whatever they are, is that there is not one that is consistently successful in the treatment of vitiligo.

UVB narrowband phototherapy (311-313 nm) has been shown to offer improved efficacy over PUVA and is now more frequently used than UVA as provides better results with less risk. Even better is the use of the Excimer laser at wavelength of 308 nm as it has been shown to be more effective in addressing localised areas than the border area of using non collimated light source. This in no way suggests you could have a go with your IPL, in fact the opposite is true. In severe cases, depigmentation may be the best treatment option. Twice daily application of the drug Monobenzylether of Hydroquinone is used until the surrounding skin colour matches the depigmented area of vitiligo. Side-effects are dry skin, itching, or a rash, with the most common side-ffect being inflammation and increased sensitivity to sunlight. This depigmentation is usually permanent; however, some cases have been reported where the pigmentation returned after stopping the course of treatment.

As to Michael Jackson, he did in fact have a severe form of debilitating progressive vitiligo, which first appeared on his right hand (the reason why the one glove appeared), which required in the end the drug Monobenzylether of Hydroquinon that killed all remaining melonocytes; essentially turning him into an albino. It was not that he wanted to be white – he basically had little choice. If you are interested, the drug he applied twice daily was the tradenamed Monobenzone. This is a prescription drug formulated by a compounding chemist in 1030 per cent strength. Benoquin is also used for the same effect.

Surgical intervention: There are some surgical interventions, however, these are not suitable for most, due to the cost and the recovery without a guarantee of permanent success. As with any surgery there are possible complications.

Autologous skin grafts are where skin is taken from one part of the body and attached to the depigmented areas of the same body. A less invasive method is blister grafting, where blisters are created and the blister top is cut and grafted to the depigmented area. As you can imagine, scarring, uneven skin texture or lack of repigmentation are possible outcomes.

MEDICAL TREATMENT The following is not the exhaustive list of treatment options – I mention them as they are the most common and may help to understand what your client may be going through.

In the very early stages, topical corticosteroids may be prescribed. However these are not the best option as use is required for many months and the steroids come with side effects. Immunomodulators are another class of drugs sometimes prescribed if it is determined the vitiligo is from an immune dysfunction. These drugs suppress the immune system where applied, allowing or at least helping the melanocytes to return.

Psoralen photochemotherapy, more commonly known as PUVA, is use of the drug psoralen (orally or topically) that reacts with ultraviolet light to cause a melanogenisis (melanin creation) and thus repigmenting the skin. The topical use of the drug is used for smaller areas that are exposed to UVA light in a special ‘light box’. The dose of Psoralen or the exposure time is increased as the skin acclimatises to the therapy. A downside to this is sunburn, or possible over pigmentation if the melanocyte has still functioning melanosomes. Oral Psoralen is used for extensive depigmentation (usually defined as more than 20 per cent of the body). Carefully monitoring is required, as there is a long list of possible side-effects, including sunburn, nausea and vomiting, itching, abnormal hair growth, cataracts and hyperpigmentation. A slight increased risk of basal carcinoma (skin cancer) is also known, however, it is a very small risk.

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IN SUMMARY Vitiligo shows on the skin, yet the real damage is not the physical; it is the emotional. It is not contagious so do not treat them like a leper – actually if you meet a leper, don’t treat them like a leper either. While not curable, there are treatments available – most from a medical practitioner it is true, yet you can help.

In all your dealings with those clients with vitligo, be up-front and answer all questions as honestly as possible, particularly if the answer is a truthful “I don’t know”.

While there may not be a host of treatment options available to you, there are many that indirectly can provide some calm and peace in their lives. Allow them the chance to escape into the warm cocoon of luxury that your service and attitude allows.

While the skin may be of different colours, it is still skin, and that is what you know about. As with all clients, your real job is educating them as to how to have the best skin they can have – no matter what the colour.

Terry Everitt Terry is known as a Master Aesthetician in Advanced Clinical Aesthetics and lectures an medical and aesthetic conference both in Australia and internationally, while also being an educationalist in the development of quality assurance learning. Terry is also a consultant in legislative compliance requirements within the vocational education and training environment.

He can be contacted on 0414 483 758.

product releases Yo u r S a l o n a n d Clients Deserve Quality Lish Hair All Lish Hair is ethically sourced and manufactured to strict specifications by quality tested suppliers.

This assures you only receive beautiful silky smooth quality h a i r .

O u r professional hair is 100% Remy Ta n g l e - F r e e H u m a n H a i r.

Synthetic Clips in coloured hair extensions are made from Kanekalon fibres.

The Lish Retail Range has a range of high quality take-home hair extension products that you can retail in your salon. They offer your clients the freedom to decide when they want hair extensions in and also what colour highlights they are going to have. Lish take- home hair extension products are quick and easy to use, look effective and natural. For further details contact Salon Pacific Beauty Supplies Ph: 1300 651 439, Email: info@salonpacicfic.com.au or visit www.salonpacific.com.au to view full product selection.

Lish Day Spa and Body Products Lish is a brand that offers value for money. Competitively priced it offers a wide range of professional products made with the absolute highest quality ingredients ensuring reliable and dependable results you can count on. The spa products include a variety of Exfoliating creams, Salt Scrubs, Clay wrap, Massage Oil, Aromatherapy Oils, Body Brushes, Moisturising Lotions and much, much more. Produced with results in mind, they are as pleasurable as they are effective. Available also in bulk sizes of 5lts, 10lts and 25lts for cost-effectiveness. A full range of quality waxes and linen are also available. Phone for further details: 1300 651 439 Salon Pacific Beauty Supplies.

Lish Complete Hot Rocks Kit Lish Rocks, is a thermotherapy using stones of all shapes and sizes, and varying temperatures to bring about release of tension both physically and mentally. The stones can be placed on various areas of the body including trigger points. Hot stones encourage blood and lymph flow and provide soothing heat for deep tissue massage, while cold stones aid in soothing inflammation for skin conditions or body needs. The kit contains 52 Volcanic Basalt Rocks including heater and mat, thermostat, stone bags, towel set and velour robe, chilling bowls, Music CD’s and CD of marketing images. Salon Pacific Beauty Supplies Ph: 1300 651 439

Equipment and furniture at prices you can only dream about If you are looking to expand, update your equipment or start a new business here is your opportunity to purchase top quality equipment at exceptional prices. Salon Pacific Beauty Supplies pride themselves on the best 3section beauty beds that are especially designed for the Australian market featuring extra length and width and thicker padding to accommodate all body shapes and sizes. The bed is also adjustable to suit the requirements of facial treatments, waxing, massage or a comfortable pedicure. Full range of quality electrical equipment is also available. Salon Pacific Beauty Supplies is a distribution company that understands your needs. Ph: 1300 651 439

APJ 77

“Uplifting results” for you’re your client and your bottom line with SKEYNDOR’S MESO-LIFT Limited Edition Package Every aesthetician can deliver the maximum and exacting results with MESOSCIENCE by Skeyndor. The latest addition to the treatment range is Meso-Lift. This MESOSCIENCE protocol offers excellent treatment results and the benefits of a lucrative and healthy bottom line, while enabling you to continue with a high client retention rate. The Meso-Lift treatment procedure guarantees dramatic results in firmness, toning and lifting of slackened muscles on the face and neck and a boost in facial contour with its advanced, non-invasive technique. Employing a stateof- the- art technology Meso-Lift delivers active ingredients at a cellular level ensuring visible results after just one session. Call Vogue Image Group and save. Exclusive offer: Buy the Mesoscience Equipment and receive at no extra cost, salon treatment products and takehome products. Plus comprehensive training workshops to enable you to achieve outstanding results. Request to see our impressive ‘before’ and ‘after’ results, all possible within 12 Meso-Lift sessions. The valued-added limited edition packages will ensure your investment is returned to you within a few short months. Phone 1800 554 545.

You Can Make More Money In Your Business, Right Now! Simply by giving gifts away Every business needs new clients and one of the best methods of attracting new customers is through referrals from existing happy customers. After all, you want to attract more people just like them. Here’s how: ! Your staff needs to ask for referrals – make it easy for them ! You need to provide your clients with something worthwhile with your details on it to pass on to their friends. ! You need to say “thank you” every time you receive a referral to encourage the client to continue to talk about you.

4CP makes this easy with several affordable eye-catching promotional products perfect for keeping in your purse to be seen every day. Your staff could be handing out fabulous items like those pink nail files, complete with your salon details for as little as 99¢ each. Just a single facial referral more than covers the cost of several dozen. Your clients and all their friends will love them and your business will grow. For further details and to order contact 4CP Promotional Products & Graphic Design Ph: 07 5442 3341 Email: wayne@4cp.com.au or www.4cp.com.au

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Chocoholiks™ The ultimate guiltless pleasure! This holiday season, seduce your senses with a decadent treat jane iredale’s limited edition holiday collection, chocoholicks, an assortment of four chic, chocolate truffleflavoured lip glosses. Housed like exotic confections, when applied to the lips each gloss releases a sweet surprise reflective of its shade name.

Flavours include Truffle, Chocolate Orange, Strawberry Cream and Caramel and for a limited time we include a lip brush for easy and smooth application.

Savour these sweet treasures as the natural flavours melt on your lips for the ultimate guiltless pleasure.

Contact Margifox Distributors 1300 850 008 www.janeiredale.com

BIOELEMENTS announces the launch of new anti-ageing serum A breakthrough cosmeceutical formula, PROBOTIX has been developed by Bioelements. Probotix is an overnight treatment that creates an environment within the skin that allows it to regain its natural microflora balance and become more ageresistant. The core anti-ageing blend contains probiotic active bifidus cell compounds immersed in nourishing milk proteins to help strengthen the skin’s defence, enabling it to resist the signs of ageing. These findings are clinically proven. With nightly use Probiotix Anti-Ageing serum will counteract the destruction of collagen and elastin to help prevent the loss of firmness. Bifiduis Ferment Lysate is a compound derived from natural bifidus cultures that are (also found in yoghurt and dietary supplements) lab-engineered to specifically treat the skin. They have been proven effective to stimulate cell function, calm sensitive and irritated skin and benefit the skin to look and feel younger. Excellent results have been achieved for rosacea as well as mature and dehydrated skin.

For further details phone Absolute Spa 1300 262 275.

Smooth Operator With summer on our doorsteps, everyone likes to be smooth and hair free. Yet no one likes the discomfort associated with hair removal, be it waxing, laser, electrolysis or other. With this thought in mind, Elements Australia created Smoothie Triple Action body smoothing lotion, which works in three ways.

Soothes and comforts the skin immediately after hair removal, minimises the appearance of ‘skin pumps’ and ingrown hairs following hair epilation and retards hair growth and maintains silky smooth skin for longer. Smoothie contains Australian anti-bacterial Lemon Myrtle Oil to minimise skin redness and discomfort plus natural exfoliants from Milk and Lilly Pilly Berries to draw out stubborn ingrown hairs. Additionally Smoothie contains Bio-Dormin® hair retardant, which helps to reduce the frequency of hair removal.

Your clients will be delighted!

For information phone Elements Australia On 1800 336 338 www.elementsaustralia.com.au

Save 5% on Cleaning & Infection Control Products from Livingstone for the month of OCTOBER

Vitamin C Powder Skinstitut uses 100% pure chirally correct Vitamin C for maximum efficacy. One of the most important ingredients in skincare is Vitamin C with research confirming that Vitamin C is among the most potent ingredients to assist the growth of collagen. Some Vitamin C skincare products are not suitable, as they are in a water base and vitamin C, when mixed with water dissolves and loses efficacy in a very short period rendering them ineffective. On the other hand, oil-based formulations are only suitable for those with dry skin. Skinstitut’s Vitamin C is in pure powder form and hence does not suffer from the above mentioned limitations. In addition it is at a concentration of 100 per cent rather than 15 per cent for the average vitamin C product. Cost price $15 RRP $45. For more information visit www.skinstitut.com Telephone 02 9531 6858.

Livingstone range of Disinfectants, Hand Washes, Dishwashing Liquids, Laundry Powders, Wipes, Paper Towels, Tissues and Gloves has been popular in beauty industry for the past 25 years.

Livingstone Disinfectants and Cleaners are biodegradable and are strong enough for most surfaces. Livingstone Wipes range from Alcohol Wipes & Swabs, Detergent Wipes and Fibrella Wipes to Wet Facial Wipes and Cotton Facial Wipes. Disposable Gloves and Reusable Rubber Gloves are also available as well as Facial Masks, Aprons, Eye Protective Wear as well as Disposable Client Wear.

Order in the month of October ‘09 and receive 5% off the whole range when quoting campaign code APAN0910.

For more information contact Livingstone on 1300 557 557, email: beauty@livingstone.com.au or visit www.livingstone.com.au.

APJ 79

Even Blend Serum

A Detox treatment with a difference The skin being the largest organ harbours numerous toxins and impurities, making the body sluggish and the skin dull. There are several detox wraps and treatments that offer limited help, but now there is an incredible treatment that promises much more. OmVeda offer the ultimate body detox treatment incorporating heating products to activate the sweat glands, exfoliating herbal clays, medicinal herbal infused oils and hydrating moisturisers that rebuild and nourish the body. OmVeda detox body treatments are utterly unique and ritualistic with added health and wellness benefits that leave the body renewed and the skin refreshed and hydrated.

Phone OmVeda on 1300 662 383.

Just about everyone has a few obvious brown spots on their skin. Freckles, age spots, liver spots are just a few commonly known marks, generally referred to as pigmented lesions. Even Blend Serum is medical grade skincare to effectively target excess melanin production. Even Blend works by inhibiting every step of the melanin production pathway thus providing a highly effective skin brightening treatment without the use of harsh bleaching ingredients. Even Blend Serum will assists in the prevention and treatment of post inflammatory hyper pigmentation. Cost price $15 RRP $45 For more information visit www.skinstitut.com Telephone 02 9531 6858

Zesty Grape Seed Oil The virtues of grape seed for its powerful antioxidant properties are well documented. Now a primary medical compound called Procyanidolic Oligomers (PCOs) has been identified that scientists believe attributes to high levels of antioxidants. These compounds seem to stop free radicals and help them pass quickly out of the body. Some studies have shown that PCOs kill cancer cells, while protecting the healthy cells. The PCOs in grape seed seem to aid the vascular system by binding to and thereby strengthening collagen, which is found in the lining of veins, arteries, and capillary walls as well as the skin. Now from A Natural Difference Zesty Grape Seed Massage Oil is available in 250mls for professional use only.

Call CSHE on 1800 628 999.

Magnesium Chloride for better skin and better health The effects of stress and ‘burn out’ cause skin problems, premature ageing, hormone imbalance, low metabolism and even serious diseases. Nervous exhaustion arises in all cases of magnesium deficiency. As the body consumes more magnesium under stress and our food supply is now magnesium deficient, it’s nearly impossible to get enough with diet alone. Magnesium chloride is the most bio-available form of magnesium and is safely absorbed transdermally. It is also highly beneficial for several skin conditions such as acne, psoriasis, eczema and ageing skin. Elektra Magnesium Mineral Bath Flakes can be used as an effective detox foot soak, body scrub or spray as well as a mouthwash and for compresses on the skin. Due to its transdermal capabilities you can apply it on the skin on one side of the body and it can benefit other areas. Photos are available from the company to support these results. Elektra Magnesium Mineral Bath Flakes are available in 500grs or in larger quantities for a more economical option.

For information and orders contact Elektra Life phone 07 55331088 or visit www.elektralife.com

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Peptides – The little proteins that offer Maximum skin benefit Repair Serum with Peptides is a must-have product for every salon and clinic. Containing a complex of hydrolysed wheat and soy protein combined with Tripeptide-1, which has proven UVB protection of cells from photo-damage, while selectively boosting collagen synthesis. It also contains numerous other nutrients such as Alpha Lipoic Acid, C-Enzyme Q10 that protect from free radical damage. Repair Serum is highly effective product to be used after an exfoliating procedure and should be recommended as an essential home care product that will help build and extend the results of your treatments.

Repair Serum is best suited for sensitive, stressed, photodamaged and over exfoliated skin.

Call CSHE on 1800 628 999.

Shed Your Winter Skin In Time For Spring Racing!

In the colder months our skin gets sluggish and dull, not a good look for Spring Racing! Why not shed your winter skin with Germaine de Capuccini’s Advanced Resurfacing Facial Treatment from the Timexpert White range.

Perfect prior to spring events, the treatment includes both a micro-exfoliation and glycolic peel, shedding away dull lifeless skin while maintaining the skin’s optimal balance and revealing the perfection of uniform, luminous skin. So say goodbye to winter and renew your client’s skin with this new treatment. For these and other delightful high performance products for clinics and spas phone Germaine de Capuccini on 1300 432 100 or visit w w w. g e r m a i n e - d e cappucini.com.au

SKIN - INJECT Skin - Inject is a medically engineered device that incorporates the power of 192 surgical stainless steel needles to regenerate, rejuvenate and revitalise the skin. Four specifically designed devices mean that the results can be performed at home using the skin - inject 0.15mm or by a trained dermal therapist or cosmetic physician using the skin - inject Professional.

Skin - Inject homecare cost price $55 inc GST Skin - Inject Professional cost price $65 inc GST. Skin - Inject prides itself on being the highest quality skin needling device at the lowest price. For more information visit www.skinstitut.com Telephone 02 9531 6858

ROSE-HIP to Soothe Inflammation Have you heard of Rose-Hip Vital yet? You could be missing out on some major health benefits if you haven't. Rose-Hip Vital, which is made from 100% natural Rosehip plant extract, is great for increased energy and motivation, treating joint pain, reducing inflammation, getting better sleep, boosting your immunity and general wellbeing. It's also a powerful antioxidant. Plus, unlike synthetic supplements, it absorbs into your body faster. Rose-Hip Vital is TGA approved in Australia and contains no GM ingredients. Each capsule contains 500 mg Rosehip powder.

Based on historical and traditional use, it appears Rosehip is well tolerated, and research results and scientific trials have shown no observed sideeffects following treatment with rosehip. Due to a lack of sufficient data. Price: RRP $59.95 www.rosehipvital.com.au Phone: 1800 851 888.

Grow Gorgeous Lashed with the winning formulation Heavenly Curls® Eyelash Enhancer Achieve spectacular-looking eyelashes and eyebrows with Heavenly Curls® Eyelash Enhancer by Hovan’s Group.

Containing no drugs, parabens or petroleum-based ingredients, this hypoallergenic gel formulation uses only natural ingredients to stimulate follicular growth and achieve longer, fuller lashes. Heavenly Curls® helps prevent breakage and strengthens delicate lashes against environmental damage as well as the adverse effects of cosmetics. Heavenly Curls Eyelash Enhancer is ophthalmologically tested for safety and efficacy. Follicular growth was identified as little as five days after application and reported no adverse effects or burning when the gel inadvertently entered the eyes. When applied at least twice a day on the lash lines and/or eyebrows, a measurable difference to hair length and thickness can typically be seen within four to eight weeks. For further information contact Hovan’s Group (02) 9938 2111, Email: sales@hovansgroup.com.au or www.hovansgroup.com.au

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nutrient profile developed and are currently grown and harvested in the beautiful Altai Mountains of Russian Siberia, which boasts to have the highest quality. The unique features of the plant, especially its combination of high environmental value with nutritional and medical applications, have contributed to the substantial interest and recognition it has received internationally from researchers and medical practitioners.

HISTORICAL REFERENCES, USES AND MEDICINAL PROPERTIES

In every issue of APJ we will be profiling a special plant or nutrient, highlighting any new research information and in particular, any benefits it may offer for skin health and inner wellness. In his article Stress, Telomeres and Botanical Medicine as presented in this journal, Dr Daniel Weber makes mention of sea buckthorn berry. We therefore decided to profile as our nutrient of choice for this issue this relatively newcomer to the skincare industry.

Sea buckthorn shrub has yellow to orange 6 to 8 mm berries, which remain on the shrubs throughout the winter. The plant reaches approximately 2 to 5 metres in height. The leaves are alternate and narrow and silver-grey in colour. When in blossom, small, yellow flowers appear in spring. Both male and female sea buckthorn plants are needed for fruit production. The plant is used for land reclamation and to prevent soil erosion because of its extensive root system and its ability to fix nitrogen and other nutrients.

The berries are used to make juice, but also the bark and leaves are used for the production of pharmaceuticals or to make sea buckthorn tea. Sea buckthorn oil is extracted from the fruit and seeds and used in both skincare and for internal use due to its nutritional benefits.

SEA BUCKTHORN BERRY for skin renewal and internal health Sea Buckthorn (Hippophae Rhamnoides) is a source of herbal medicine, vitamins and nutrients well recognised around the world. It is used as an active ingredient in anti-ageing and medicinal skincare products, dietary supplements and health foods for its nourishing, revitalising and restorative action.

One of the main sea buckthorn products – sea buckthorn oil is traditionally utilised to promote the healing of skin injuries, such as burns, sores, wounds, eczema and help improve conditions of mucous membranes, including ulcers, lesions and tissue erosion. Due to the high content of nutrients essential for the metabolism of skin cells, sea buckthorn oil is applied to combat dry skin, wrinkles and other symptoms of malnourished or prematurely ageing skin. It is also taken internally to improve the conditions of the mucous membranes of gastrointestinal tract and as a natural dietary supplement.

Sea buckthorn is known by different names in various countries. In Russia it is known as Seaberry, Siberian pineapple or Alpine Sandthorn and is a naturally occurring shrub that is found in very large territories in Europe and Asia. Most scientists think that it originates from the Himalayan Mountains, where its natural hardiness and vigour allow it to thrive on solid rock formations around crystal-clear rivers fed from ancient glaciers, at elevations as high as 14,000 feet.

According to the information provided by the International Research and Training Centre on Sea Buckthorn (ICRTS), its natural distribution area includes China, Mongolia, India, Nepal, Pakistan, Russia, Ukraine, Great Britain, France, Denmark, the Netherlands, Germany, Poland, Finland, Sweden and Norway. The cultivated, super-high-vitamin varieties of sea buckthorn, famous for the healing and health-promoting properties of oil derived from their berries, have been

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The virtues of sea buckthorn have been documented for centuries in ancient pharmacology records in China, Russia and Europe as one of nature’s most incredible medicinal plants. Its small, bright orange berries have been cherished for their truly incredible healing, nutritive, and therapeutic qualities. The richly coloured oil produced from sea buckthorn berries is so abundant in vitamins, antioxidants and other healing compounds that many believe that sea buckthorn must have been created by some ancient plant-breeder. Sea buckthorn berries have no match in the plant kingdom for their content of carotenoids (pro-vitamin A), tocopherols (vitamin E), phylloquinone (vitamin K), as well as other vitally important healing and health-promoting vitamins, fatty acids and microelements.

Sibu Yidian, the classic Tibetan medical book written in the eighth century AD — devotes 30 chapters to the amazing medicinal and nutritional uses of sea buckthorn. Sibu Yidian places great emphasis on the ability of sea buckthorn “to tonify Yin and strengthen Yang”.

Historically, other cultures have also found healing, health and balance from sea buckthorn. In India, it is an important part of traditional Ayurveda. It is absolutely essential in the Chinese Pharmacopeia. In Mongolia, it has long been seen as a source for indefatigable life energy - which is why, it is said, Genghis Khan and his armies drank the juice of the sea buckthorn berry to increase stamina and speed up the healing of wounds.

In Russia, clinical tests on its medicinal uses were first initiated in the 1950s and sea buckthorn was formally listed in the Pharmacopoeia in 1977. The most important pharmacological functions attributed to sea buckthorn oil are anti-inflammatory, anti-microbial, analgesic, and regenerative. Based on its

traditional use, modern scientific research and clinical studies, sea buckthorn oil has been proven to be an amazingly effective natural remedy for all health problems related to damaged mucous membranes of the gastrointestinal tract, including the following widespread conditions:

! ! ! ! ! ! ! !

Mouth ulcers (also called aphthae, or canker sores) Sore throat and strep throat Esophagitis (inflammation of the esophagus) and Barrett’s esophagus Acid reflux (GERD) Treatment-resistant peptic ulcers and chronic erosive gastritis Ulcerative colitis (inflammation and ulceration of colon mucosa) Crohn’s disease Diverticulosis and diverticulitis

The unique therapeutic properties of this oil are explained by its almost unbelievable abundance in health-promoting bioactive components. A more comprehensive analysis confirmed that the ripe berries contain more than 190 varieties of bioactive substances, of which 106 occur in the berry oil. This number includes six different fat-soluble vitamins and vitamin-like substances, 22 fatty acids, 42 kinds of lipids and 36 kinds of flavonoids and phenols. So far, the pharmacological licence for sea buckthorn oil has been renewed five times since the first time it was approved as a drug for production and utilisation by the Ministry of Public Health of the former USSR.

WOUND HEALING However, the most note worthy studies that confirm the therapeutic properties of sea buckthorn is the improvement it offers to wound healing. Topical treatment of wounds with extracts or oil from sea buckthorn relieves pain and accelerates wound healing. When taken internally, animal studies showed that sea buckthorn stimulates the healing of gastric ulcers.

USE IN SKINCARE Herbalists have used sea buckthorn berry for its therapeutic benefits for centuries, and as modern research brings to light its virtues we are seeing a constant increase of skincare companies incorporating this nutrient into their formulations.

In particular, several well-established "Natural Cosmetics" companies are including sea buckthorn berry in their skincare products, as a search of the web will quickly show you.

Bio-active substances in the oil from the seed and pulp are used in a variety of dermatological applications, among them cosmeceutical and anti-ageing face formulations. Tests also reveal that the extract seems to also absorb UV rays, offering further benefit against sun damage, and therefore we are now starting to see it in suncare products. Further research also indicates that products containing sea buckthorn berry appear to promote cell-tissue regeneration, thus aiding in the healing of wounds and restoring skin tissue.

An international natural bath and beauty chain adds the plant's oil to its sunscreen products as both a sunblock and as a tanenhancer. In European we are also seeing this ingredient appearing in anti-wrinkle creams that attribute its benefits due to its high vitamin and anti-oxidant properties and particularly to the high levels of betacarotene present in the oil.

Clinical experiments in Shantow Tropical Disease Hospital and the Shanxi Pharmaceutical Research Institute indicate cosmetics containing sea buckthorn extracts can actually improve metabolism and retard skin maturation, thus slowing the effects of the ageing process. As a result it is now

considered proven effective in the treatment of skin conditions including burns, skin ulcers, cancer, acne and dermatitis of various forms. Current research indicates that not only does it enhance immune activity and disease resistance, but it also destroys harmful free radicals found in our bodies.

Another interesting fact is that only 1% dilution is need to achieve excellent skin benefits, as higher doses of 10% did not demonstrate greater results.

SUPPLEMENTATION As a daily supplement sea buckthorn berry has also become very popular and believed to provide the following additional health benefits:

! ! ! ! ! ! !

Protects cell membranes from the harmful effects of chemical contaminants Inhibits formation of atherosclerotic plaque and reduces cholesterol Mormalises blood pressure and prevents arrhythmias Acts as a powerful immune system booster Improves the condition of hair and skin Optimizes the activity of the pancreas Reduces inflammation and promotes tissue regeneration

It would appear that sea buckthorn oils has jointed the ranks of potent berries that promise to offer us great skin protection as well as internal antioxidant benefits.

REFERENCE READING: Yu Sui Yuandanguibu et al., translated by Li Yongnian 1983, Si Bu Yi Dian. The Publishing House of Public Health, Beijing.

Zhang Zhemin 1990. Advance and counter-measure on research and use of Sea Buckthorn in Russia. Hippophae 3 (3): 42-46.

Xu Mingyu, Sun Xiaoxuan, Cui Jinhua. The medicinal research and development of Sea Buckthorn. Xiyuan Hospital of the Academy of Traditional Chinese Medicine of China, Beijing.

Alexander Eidelnant. Sea Buckthorn in Medicine, Skin Care, and Nutrition. Kron-Press, Moscow, 1998.

International Research and Training Center on Sea Buckthorn, http://icrts.org/multipurpose/space.htm

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key ingredient

Rosehip and its benefits against Inflammation Dr Kaj Winther MD, DMSch The virtues of Rosehip oil are not only well documented in clinical studies, but also widely supported by skin therapists who have effectively used it for various skin conditions from acne, burns to numerous inflammatory skin conditions, such as eczema, psoriasis and rosacea.

Now several international peer- reviewed research studies indicate to the powerful anti-inflammatory properties of Galactolipid (GOPO), which is a compound found in rosehip. At the recent launch in Australia of the dietary supplement Rosehip Vital, world expert on inflammation Dr Kaj Winther was invited to be part of the launch.

During his visit Dr Winther accepted to be interviewed by APJ to discuss his latest research findings and the use of Rosehip against inflammation.

APJ: How does inflammation compromise health and how does it contribute to the ageing process?

Dr Winther: There are four key pathways to ageing – free radicals/oxidation, dehydration, ossification (excessive calcium deposits) and inflammation. However, inflammation when left unchecked can become the silent killer.

Inflammation begins when pro-inflammatory hormones (prostaglandins; cytokines, and histamines) in our body call out for white blood cells to come and clear out infection and damaged tissue. They are the initial response that fires up the immune system, being the crucial first step in fighting off infection, which is necessary before any wound can heal. In fact inflammation is the activation of the immune system in response to infection, irritation or injury. It is characterised by

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an influx of white blood cells, redness, heat, swelling, pain and dysfunction of the organs involved. Inflammation has different names when it appears in different parts of the body, such as: ! Dermatitis – inflammation of the skin ! Arthritis – inflammation of the joints ! Asthma – inflammation of the airways ! Sinusitis – inflammation of the sinuses ! Rhinitis – inflammation of the nose However, when inflammation persists the immune system is activated and this is known as chronic inflammation and can lead to chronic disease – silently playing havoc with and killing off cells. .

When the body is constantly attacked in this way the result is always premature ageing and ultimately disease.

APJ: What are some of the common symptoms that the body is fighting inflammation?

Dr Winther: Common manifestations in that you constantly feel tired and you can also experience elevated temperature.

APJ: As one ages so we see an increase in skin inflammation, particularly in the face and neck. What causes this?

Dr Winther: There are a number of health issues such as poor circulation and hormonal imbalances that can contribute to skin inflammation. However, prolonged inflammation contributes to skin dehydration and causes collagen and elastin to become more fragile and blood vessels become less flexible and still.

APJ: With regards to rosehip, what have the clinical trials concluded about using rosehip for pain relief and inflammatory conditions?

Dr Winther: There are

There are approximately 20 research papers and clinical trials based on rosehip that confirm that rosehip can be specifically beneficial for osteoarthritis, while also showing some impact on rheumatoid arthritis.

approximately 20 research papers and clinical trials based on rosehip that confirm that rosehip can be specifically beneficial for osteoarthritis, while also showing some impact on rheumatoid arthritis. The most outstanding trial conducted at the University of Copenhagen, Denmark, and published in The Journal of Rheumatology in 2005, treated 94 osteoarthritis patients with a specially grown rosehip product (produced under a patent process in Denmark) and found that 82 per cent reported a reduction in pain after just three weeks.

Interestingly, patients taking the rosehip were able to reduce their usage of traditional painkillers by up to 40 per cent. And after a three-month period they increased an increase in mobility, a reduction in joint stiffness when walking and better management of joint pain, relief from arthritic pain and even improved sleep.

APJ: How does the unique compound Galactolipid (GOPO) found in rosehip work?` Dr Winther: There are many species of rosehip and only very few contain Galactolipids. However, in Denmark we have the right soil and growing conditions. We have only recently isolated the active compound Galactolipid in rosehip that works as a natural antiinflammatory and we have trademarked it as (GOPO ®). To preserve this active compound in significant levels it must be harvested and dried to a specific heat level of 39 degrees. This particular preservation method has also been patented and used in the production of Rosehip Vital. Further tests confirm that this compound works by discouraging large numbers of white blood cells from accumulating in chemical enzymes and toxic free radicals, which cause tissue damage. Accumulation of these white blood cells combined with the release of these chemicals is the cause of joint pain and inflammation. Recently a group of Swiss doctors also presented their data at the Swiss Congress of Osteoarthritis in Rome and the APLAR meeting in Japan in 2008, indicating that GOPO® improves human cartilage.

APJ: What skin conditions can benefit from Rosehip Vital?

Dr Winther: We know that Rosehip oils offers several benefits to the skin, however, Rosehip Vital as a dietary supplement has not been specifically tested for skin inflammation only for arthritic conditions. However, we know that Galactolipid works on white blood cells, changing their behaviour and making them less aggressive. We also know that this compound supports the body’s immune system and the body’s defence mechanism through other nutrients with strong anti-oxidant properties, such as vitamins C and E and betacarotene, which are also present in Rosehip Vital. As a result I am convinced that as it can offer improvement in skin immunity it can benefit several skin conditions.

APJ: What aspect of research relating to Rosehip is providing new information?

Dr Winther: For years we knew that Rosehip was a great source of high vitamin C content. However, the discovery of Galactolipid and its antiinflammatory benefits as well as its support of the body’s immunity is a great discovery that has contributed to benefits that Rosehip can offer in chronically debilitating conditions such as osteoarthritis and rheumatoid arthritis. Patients are reported to be able to reduce the consumption of painkillers considerably by 40 per cent.

This now means that these individuals can have a better quality of life, as their symptoms will be become less pronounced and they will gain mobility. We know that more severe osteoarthritis can shorten one’s life by up to four years. By minimising inflammation, supporting immunity, improving mobility and minimising pain it would be reasonable to say that their life expectancy that has been compromised can be extended.

APJ: Can one overdose using Rosehip Vital?

Dr Winther: A university study checked liver function when doses of Rosehip Vital were increased by tenfold and no negative effects were identified. I believe that as Rosepip Vital is 100 per cent fruit made into dry powder with nothing added, the body can readily metabolise it without any side-effects or toxic overload.

APJ: Finally, Dr Winther, what can we do to reduce inflammation?

Dr Winther: There are eight key areas of consideration that will effectively assist in reducing inflammation. These are: 1. Diet – Eat lots of fruits, vegetables and seafood. Add essential fatty acids (EFAs) to your diet. Eliminate sugar, gluten and refined carbohydrates from your diet.

2. Supplement with nutritional compounds – Free radical neutralising vitamins and anti-oxidants.

Include antiinflammatory minerals and bioflavonoids.

3. Exercise – Include lifestyle modifications.

4. Reduce stress levels 5. Have fun and laugh a lot 6. Always rest and sleep well 7. Break bad habits – Stop smoking and reduce excessive drinking 8. Practice detox therapies – Eat pH balanced foods Dr Kaj Winther MD, DMSch is Head of the Department of Clinical Biochemistry at the Frederiksbert Hospital at the University of Copenhagen in Denmark and an Inflammation Specialist. He is co-author of more than 125 scientific papers and has instigated several clinical trials based on rosehip (Rosa Canina L.)

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make-up The virtues of mineral makeup have been extensively featured both in the media, and recently, in a scientific review published in Cosmetic Dermatology written by dermatologist Dr Jennifer Linden and presented by Jane Iredale. The review, “Mineral Makeup and its Role with Acne and Rosacea”, not only identifies the benefits of mineral makeup for these two problematic skin conditions, but also explains what is authentic mineral makeup. This is valuable information, as numerous companies, in a bid to capitalise on its popularity, are exploiting this term.

Through this interview with Jane Iredale, we reveals interesting information that may help clarify misconceptions about mineral makeup and brings to light valuable considerations when choosing an authentic mineral makeup product.

Can you explain how Dr Jennifer Linden identified authentic mineral makeup in her article relating to rosacea and acne?

For physicians to assess mineral makeup and its benefits for their patients with rosacea and acne, it is necessary to explore the chemical composition of authentic mineral powder.

Many makeup brands are now marketing products they call mineral makeup, but they do not utilise authentic minerals in their formulations. The incorrect use of the word

by Jane Iredale mineral as a marketing term confuses patients and can lead to the use of products that can potentially worsen their condition due to problematic ingredients.

A comprehensive examination of Mineral Makeup

The original definition of mineral makeup is a makeup that eliminates talc, potential skin irritants and comedogenic ingredients, all of which are critical for patients to avoid if they have acne or rosacea. Authentic mineral powders are primarily comprised of combinations of titanium dioxide (TiO2), zinc oxide (ZnO), iron oxides, mica, bismuth oxychloride (BiOCl), or boron nitride (BN). In authentic mineral powders, the minerals will appear at the top of the ingredient listing, as ingredients must be listed in descending order by volume. In traditional makeup, minerals are usually listed on the label APJ 86

under the phrase “may also contain”, indicating that they may or may not exist in the formula and that their percentage is likely to be minimal.

Unfortunately, the most common ingredient in traditional makeup is talc, comprising 70%-90% of the formula. Although talc, also known as soapstone, is a mineral (magnesium silicate hydroxide), the definition of an authentic mineral makeup is one that contains no talc. The dilution of actual mineral pigments in talc diminishes their benefits, deadens the look of skin, and increases the requirement for reapplication. Coverage with a heavy talc-based makeup is at best unsatisfactory and true camouflage is almost impossible.

An authentic mineral formula containing a high percentage of minerals provides numerous benefits to patients with acne and rosacea, including sun protection, lack of comedogenic ingredients, anti-inflammatory action and versatile coverage.

The concentrated pigment also gives mineral powder adherence that rarely transfers or necessitates reapplication, which makes them useful for busy people.

In your opinion is there a cumulative effect over time and therefore a negative impact on skin from long-term use of conventional makeup formulations?

Absolutely, and it isn’t only makeup, it’s also skincare, bodycare and haircare. Anything we put on our skin has the potential of adding toxins to our body. Food, air and water, of course, considerably add to the toxic load. The body reaches a point where it begins to park toxins into our tissues and this is when we begin to feel tired and are prone to sickness. The skin is the largest organ of the body and reflects our health more than anything else. It is therefore important that you look more closely at labels and what is in products before you put them on your skin.

If a therapist wishes to promote mineral makeup to her clients what are some of the reasons she should recommend its use?

With an authentic mineral makeup she should explain to her client that they could expect their skin to improve. It will be luminous and more healthier-looking and the makeup will make it look flawless. They’ll get instant, physical sun protection from UVB and UVA rays. Their makeup will stay on longer with very little need for touch-ups. If they’re prone to breakouts, they will lessen. People with rosacea will notice a difference in inflammation. And because mineral makeup is pure pigment, it lasts a lot longer than traditional makeup.

Can you identify some common problematic ingredients?

Mineral makeup was developed to benefit the conditions that typically occur or worsen as a result of wearing traditional makeup. Some types of acne, inflammation, contact dermatitis and allergies can be exacebated or caused by ingredients commonly found in traditional makeup 1 Some ingredients that have been identified as problematic are emulsifiers, drug and cosmetic dyes (D & C), fragrance, synthetic preservatives, binders and some mineral oils. Emulsifiers potentially aggravate acne due to follicular irritation. It is reasonable to assume they are acneic because they emulsify the sebum and proteins residing within and around the follicles.2 Also mineral oil is considered as a comedogenic. It is important to note that some oils rich in omega-3 and omega-6 essential fatty acids have demonstrated benefits for acne patients.3 in contrast with mineral oils.

Are there any common misconceptions about mineral makeup?

Minerals used in mineral powders are inorganic, defined as without carbon molecules. Because carbon compounds are the basis of all living organisms, inorganic compounds are considered to be a non-living or mineral origin rather than of biological origin. Their inert nature eliminated the risk for bacterial contamination. This is in contrast to organic, defined as that which contains carbon and therefore requires preservatives to prevent decay and contamination.

No minerals that are formulated in cosmetic powders are used directly from the earth and some are entirely manufactured.

Most minerals go through extensive refining processes and should be classified as inorganic compounds (e.g. TiO2 and ZnO). A brittle metal that is used extensively in mineral makeup is BiOl, which is found as the mineral bismuth in the earth’s crust and in certain types of ores. This mineral requires considerable refinement and purification before it can be used topically.

Iron oxides used for cosmetics are wholly synthesised to avoid the heavy metal contamination found in nature. Authentic minerals have no relationship to mineral oil, which is a liquid petrolatum, a by-product of petroleum. As there is no scientific definition of the term natural as it relates to cosmetics and cosmeceuticals, the common question asked by patients and clients is whether mineral makeup is “natural”. This, therefore, cannot be truly answered.

Are there any major developments in the aesthetic industry that you can foresee?

The area of active ingredients is where I see the most major development. The line between drugs and cosmetics is getting more and more blurred so that brands are really identifying drug actions, but keeping the descriptions cosmetic by using words such as “improve the appearance”, or “may assist.” With so many skincare ingredients that bring about real change, many cosmetics are now so much more than hope in a jar. I see the day when there will have to be a review by the regulatory bodies that determine the permitted use of terminology in the cosmetic industry so that what is permitted to be said is actually a true description of the action they in fact can deliver.

REFERENCES 1. Matsuoka Y, Yoneda K, Sadhiraa C et al. Effects of skincare and makeup under instructions from dermatologists on the quality of life of female patients with acne vulgaris. J Dermatol.

2006; 33:745-752.

2. Draelos ZD, Cosmetics in acne and rosacea. Semin Cutan Med Surg. 2001; 20:209-214.

3. Letawe C, Boone M, Pierad GE. Digital image analysis of the effect of topically applied linoleic acid on acne microcomedones. Clin Exp Dermatol. 1998; 23:56-58.

By eliminating the problematic ingredients identified, the result is a makeup that produces fewer negative effects in the skin.

However, well-formulated mineral makeup can go further and claim actual measurable dermal benefits.

Certain colorants can also be a concern. Colorants approved for drugs and cosmetics, known as D&C dyes, were once derived from coal tar and are now from petroleum. They are often comedogenic, particularly the red dyes, which are commonly used in blush and result in breakouts in the cheek area.

For more information contact Margifox Distributors 1300 850 008 Or visit www.janeiredale.com

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understanding products in here. Rather my focus in this article is to determine the public’s perception in the broader context of the two terms. That is to say, I want the public to understand that there is a very real and important difference in the two terms, and that in no way should they be used interchangeably. These two words really do represent two very different levels of service within the broader beauty industry. And the point of this article is to explain that if salon owners can educate their clients about this distinct difference they will be building their business on the public’s recognition that they are the true professionals in their trade and therefore deserve to be taken seriously.

HOW ARE YOU POSITIONED IN THE EYES OF THE CONSUMER?

Cosmetics versus Cosmeceuticals Winning the client on your expertise

by Paul Carbis Now I am sure that there are probably long-winded, carefully worded definitions for both the words, cosmetics and for cosmeceuticals that can be checked in a dictionary or textbook.

I suppose I should have checked to offer you a comprehensive definition. But it is not the literal definition that I am interested

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Recently, I was chatting to one of the counter staff at a city department store and she told me how many items of a particular cream she personally had sold over her counter in just the past week. I was astounded. If the truth was even half of what she said, then, she was selling more than many salons retail in a month. Yet when asked about her qualifications she had only undergone an induction course and ongoing product knowledge training with no formal qualifications at all. Yet the public obviously were listening to her recommendations and buying from her! Now here’s the killer punch — it’s our fault that this is happening! As trained professionals the staff in our salons is at fault for letting the public choose convenience and gloss over qualifications, experience, knowledge and in particular, over results.

In an age where results are of prime importance and the public is better educated about our industry than ever before, a huge factor in retaining your clients should be that you present yourself as the fully qualified, trained aesthetician – not

beautician or cosmetic counter staff. Salons need to be pointing out the difference to the results one can expect when a correct skin diagnosis is conducted and the appropriate prescribed homecare products are recommended based on this diagnosis.

Notice the words “diagnosis” and “prescribed” are medical terms – professional terms that relay the message of seriousness and qualifications. In a similar way, the professional titles of Aesthetician or Dermal Therapist (if you have this qualification), should be adopted by all serious salons. These should replace the easily confused “beauty therapist” and “beautician” job descriptions. The point is, the public doesn’t see the difference between the counter girl and your staff unless it is highlighted in communication, actions and results.

DISPLAY YOUR QUALIFICATIONS Furthermore, your diplomas and certificates that validate your credentials should be displayed. Qualifications should be added to name badges, and staff members need to act like the experts in skin that they are. This means conducting extensive skin analysis and homecare prescription, reporting and documenting, while utilising results-orientated salon-exclusive ranges.

Never underestimate the importance of demonstrating your knowledge through a thorough skin analysis utilising modern skin-scanning equipment – it’s the one thing counter staff don’t do and in most cases, can’t do. Our clients need to know that the only way they are going to get an accurate and professional assessment of their skin is in a salon through the services and expertise of fully qualified staff. This needs to be the cornerstone as to why the public should be choosing salons rather than cosmetic counters when determining their skincare needs.

DIFFERENTIATING YOURSELF If we are going to go to the trouble of having qualified and trained staff performing a thorough professional skin analysis and educating the client of their precise requirements then it stands to reason that we should only be recommending salonexclusive, treatment-strength active ingredient based skincare formulations. In an effort to position yourself as the expert you need to look to products that are not available via mainstream department stores and pharmacies, or through the Internet.

Department stores are supplying the public a product with little or no training or formal qualifications behind the recommendation, so why would you want to stock the same product? This would immediately devalue and lower the perception of what your salon offers. You should be stocking results-orientated products that are only available through a qualified professional in a salon – your salon. This way your clients will see the value of returning to you for further advice, treatments and homecare.

The retail brands you stock need to be a vital tool in your effort to secure clients rebooking and re-purchasing. It is imperative that the public perceives your products and services as a big step above what any department stores or pharmacy may offer, in both professional advice and the results you can offer them. The advice we provide should be seen in the same light as healthcare professionals.

Aestheticians should be prescribing on the basis of the client’s needs and requirements in much the same way as other healthcare professionals would – through correct diagnosis.

Just like other professionals, aestheticians need to educate their clients that optimum results can only be achieved after a thorough analysis and after a personalised diagnosis has been completed. An aesthetician should be recognised and

acknowledged as the skin expert. They should be communicating to their clients what they perceive in their skin and the correct way that any deficiencies can be rectified. We know most clients don’t understand their own skin so the days of asking the client to determine their skin type and condition is a thing of the past. By all means listen to their concerns, but give your expert opinion and prescribe cosmeceutical-grade skincare.

It should also be communicated that true cosmeceuticals are, and should only be, made available through reputable salons with responsible and qualified staff who have undergone extensive training to accurately analysis a client’s individual skin. Product and treatment recommendations should be based solely on these results and not on a convincing sales pitch. This training is necessary, as cosmeceuticals are so powerful that not just anyone can sell them. The skill is not in just knowing what is in the bottle, but rather how those ingredients will react on the skin and give it what it needs. It is this very fact that should differentiate you and give you a major point of difference and the edge over both your competitors and the massive drawcard of department stores.

In the end the results will speak for themselves. The efficacy of cosmeceuticals will ensure that your clients see and feel an immediate difference with their skin, and with on-going use they will witness a continued improvement.

One should question how “active” a company would be willing to make their formulas, if they run the risk of unqualified staff with limited training selling the products over a counter without a necessary analysis procedure conducted prior to the sale of the products. The risk of an incorrect product being sold would logically suggest that over-the-counter formulations couldn’t afford to be highly active. If they were, people would be reacting, as staff selling them would not be adequately qualified to determine the correct products for often very specific skin conditions. But therapists in the salons are not pointing this out to their clients. They are not communicating this critical point of difference that salons have. They are failing to provide the reason why clients should only return to them.

A MATTER OF DEFINITION So my personal definition of cosmeceutical versus cosmetic would be that cosmeceuticals have highly active ingredients that can only be prescribed by qualified aestheticians, and this is provided exclusively through salons that conduct thorough skin analysis often with the use of skin- scanning equipment.

On the other hand, cosmetics are products that can be sold anywhere, seemingly by anyone, and require no formal qualifications or a proper skin analysis. Salons should be known for the former, and need to be united and actively campaigning to lift public awareness of the professionalism of our vibrant Australian industry against the backdrop of brightly lit department stores.

Paul Carbis is widely regarded as one of the world’s foremost experts in the area of managing successful salons. As a salon o w n e r, c o n s u l t a n t a n d s p e a k e r internationally he is passionate about lifting the standards of the Australian industry. To contact Paul simply email paulcarbis@bigpond.com

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salon business than being sold. It empowers your customer and allows them to feel satisfied, as they feel comfortable that they are the ones that have made the decision. This also leads to further transactions with that client and, most importantly, they will refer you to their network of people.

A product or service “pushed” upon a client will lead to what we call in the industry buyer’s remorse. It is where the customer start to have doubts about the transaction, and as such, the possibility of repeat business is greatly diminished.

HOW TO INVESTIGATE The key to being able to investigate is in our communication skills. Communication is the basis of life and you will find that the reason why most people succeed in life is that they have mastered the art of communication.

I have seen a lot of people talk in sales situations. They say a lot, but they have not communicated with their client. I have seen them expend a lot of time and effort, but with no result. This often leads to frustration, and the reason for this is that the necessity for effective communication is with the receiver or hearer, not the person talking, therefore if there is no desire or understanding on behalf of the hearer, then no communication has taken place. It would be the same as if a Chinese person started to talk to me in Cantonese, they would have total understanding of what they have spoken, but I on the other hand would not have a clue.

STEPS FOR SUCCESSFUL COMMUNICATION So now that we have identified that communication is the key to successful sales, let’s look at some steps of how to achieve it: 1. Control your customer After the usual greeting your client will ask you a question. The first response from most salespeople is to answer the question.

Always answer the question with a question, such as “what” or “why”. The reason to do this is so that you take control of the transaction. This will allow you to lead the way. If the customer is asking the questions and you are doing the answering they are the ones that are in control. Mentally this will make the customer feel superior to you, and as such the chances of completing a sale are diminished. Most people feel secure following, as it takes away the pressure of being a leader.

What most people ask you initially is usually backed up by layers of thought processes. To fully understand the customer’s way of thinking we must be asking the questions. Successful questions usually start with the words why or how. These are referred to as open questions and allow the customer to talk to us

The New Approach to Successful SELLING STRATEGIES

By Rod Jones I have often heard people say that a person who was a good talker should move into a career in the sales industry. I have seen many good talkers in my time, and their sales life was short and unfulfilling.

and reveal what they are thinking of achieving. As a salesperson it is good to know every feature and benefit of your products and services, however, it is far more important to find out what a customer really wants and why.

This leads me to the point I want to make about the sales industry: “Selling is not Telling”. Successful sales is about investigating, it is the path where the client purchases rather

When communicating information to your clients do not make things up or guess your answer. Never be afraid to tell a client that you are unsure of the correct answer and will check it out

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and get back to them. The client will respect you for it and have far more trust in you if you do. However, if you have a guess at the answer and it is wrong, they will feel as if they were not important.

2. Never say “you need” How often do you hear the above statement in our life? With myself a statement starting with the “you need” always gets my back up as it basically says I know you that well that this is the answer! The “you need” conveys to the client a statement of judgement. “You” in this context is an attacking word, and most people when attacked will defend.

With sales communication the most common way of defence is that people stop listening. We know that the hearing power is with the receiver – therefore, if the client stops listening the transaction is over.

What is often stated after the “you need” is often correct, however, it is never received. It is better to use the line “I feel”, as this puts the emphasis on the salesperson – it also allows the customer to further engage in communication.

3. Clarify situation and increase ownership Always relay back to the customer what your understanding is of what they want and hope to achieve, such as “it is my understanding that…” and finish with an acknowledgement.

Never use high technical terms as it can create confusion.

Ask questions that put your client into a situation where they have what they came to you looking for. These questions have two parts. The first part of the question will start with “if you had”. This clarifies that you understand them. The second part starts with “how would you feel”. This statement allows the person to feel the emotion of having the product or service, and these feelings will make your product or service high on their personal wants agenda.

With any type of information, it is worthwhile to note that if a client speaks and makes a statement, it’s considered true to them. If you tell them what they want, it will be considered as a sales pitch and taken with a pinch of salt. Therefore, the more we can engage a person to talk and confirm what they want the better our chances of securing a sale.

4. Always Close After our investigation and clarification process is completed both parties in the sales process will be at a point where full understanding is reached and are confident to move to what we call “the close”.

This is where we get a commitment from the client to proceed with the transaction. It is the point where the customer gives you permission to provide them with the product or service. The key to this step is to use the information gathered and use closed statements.

An example of this would be “If we can (meet disclosed need of client) would you complete the transaction today?” This statement will give us a yes or a no.

After you have asked a closing question, never speak before the customer answers. By speaking first you give the client an out, as you give control back to them. The silence in these situations can be intense and the salesperson can feel very uncomfortable.

However, we must remember that being quiet allows the client to process with the communication that has taken place and give you an answer. Without an answer, there is no further road to take the sales transaction on.

IN SUMMARY To have these sales principles come naturally to you as saying hello to somebody requires practice and discipline. It will start with meditating on the truths stated above and picturing different situations where they can be used.

By using these methods in areas outside of sales, such as social gatherings with colleagues and family, you will expand your skills, and it always helps to role-play among your peers. The fruit of succeeding will be the fulfilment in your career and business.

Rodney Jones has extensive experience in the banking and finance sector as well as a presenter in investment property seminars. He is a fully licensed real estate agent and also a partner in an interior lining business. Rodney has extensive experience in staff development and training, specialising in customer service and sales success.

He has formulated successful training methods and delivered this training to a staff workforce of over 40 to achieve targets and build client loyalty.

APJ 91

BUSINESS NEWS IN BRIEF “Unless there is a balance between cutting spending and an outward focus for growth, businesses risk losing their level of influence and engaging consumer confidence to spend with them,� experts warn.

Unfair dismissal on the rise

distance learning is on the rise. APAN is currently negotiating with several companies for the development of units of training through correspondence and distance learning in costeffective packages so that qualified therapists can continue their learning through individual units of study.

New trends in distance learning As new information is entering every industry the option of e-learning has now been embraced by numerous industries, including the aesthetics industry. Cyberinstitute, the leading Elearning on-line training provider, conducted a survey of 65 private and public businesses to identify how they engaged in on-going learning. Their latest report, released in May 2009 in the E-learning Confidence Barometer, revealed that 79 per cent of the companies use some form of E-learning compared to 44 per cent in 2003.

Despite the economic downturn, 31 per cent of the businesses surveyed indicated that they had increased their E-learning budget this year, while 71 per cent stated that they intend to continue their investment in E-learning for the benefit of their company.

Within the aesthetic industry we are seeing private training providers investing in E-learning software and the trend towards correspondence and APJ 92

Experts warn against business cocooning Experts warn that many business in a bid to cope with the economic downturn have reverted to cost-cutting mechanism, leading to business cocooning. Business cocooning describes when a business focuses only on cutting operational costs rather than looking at ways of improving business performance processes through innovation. This puts them at risk of not being able to respond efficiently to changes in market conditions.

Recommendations include: Increasing cost-efficient email communication with your clients ! Engaging staff to contribute towards growth strategies and implementation ! Introducing new innovative services that offer better value for money for old and new clients ! Engaging in more efficient advertising and promotional compaigns when competitors have retreated from public exposure

!

New information released indicates that over 6000 claims for unfair dismissal were lodged in the past year, suggesting that employers are still getting it wrong when restructuring and managing their workplace, according to Harmers Lawyers. They advise that employers should now take the time to audit their current performance management processes, identify the weak areas and then make sure the proper procedures are in place. They warn that mishandling of performance management processes can present legal pitfalls for employers, with possible claims including unfair dismissal, breach of contract, discrimination or breach of workplace agreements. Fair Work Australia and F a i r Wo r k O m b u d s m a n n o w administers the new Fair Work System.

The Workplace Authority now accepts lodgement of workplace agreements and assesses them against the no disadvantage test (NDT). For further information on wage agreements, contact the Fair Work Infoline on 13 13 94. Comprehensive information is available on agreements and awards by visiting www.workplace.gov.au

Are your staff members emotionally engaged?

To identify what makes certain employees more emotionally engaged to their work than others a survey was conducted by Insync Surveys, who engaged over 70 organisations and questioned over 14,000 employees. The study examined differences in emotional engagement by career stage, gender and tenure.

James Garriock, Insync Surveys CEO, said that buying loyalty with perks rather than earning it with trust is a luxury few companies can afford in today’s economic climate.

While the economy is slow and cutbacks

impact staff, organisations are threatened with a drop in employee performance that also leads to cutdowns. Mr Garriock suggests that organisations can increase employee engagement with targeted initiatives that match the demographic mix of their workforce. The research found that age had a stronger impact on the things associated with engagement than either job tenure or gender. It confirmed that younger employees’ emotional engagement is driven more by support, guidance and structure, available through their employer and the workplace, whereas older employees’ engagement is driven more by relationships and the sharing of success.

The survey also confirmed that baby boomers are holding on to their jobs, so it is worth noting what keeps them engaged. The study further showed that these people will be more emotionally engaged when there is a organisational focus on team performance with clear performance targets, supported by recognition of achievement.

Are you entitled to a Small Business and General Business Tax Break?

To support jobs and Australian businesses – especially small businesses –the Government will fund an investment tax break for all Australian businesses. This temporary business tax break will help Australian businesses boost business investment, bolster economic activity and support Australian jobs.

Need financial assistance?

PAYDAY AU can help A payday loan is a short-term loan available through the PAYDAY AU, which is given in order to avoid a financial crisis. The payday loan acts as a money bridge until the end of the month when a person’s payday cheque enters his bank account. Although this loan has a high interest, it might be worthwhile, since receiving a loan from the bank (with low interest) can take a long time, and which at that point in time would not be needed. Be aware that although payday loans can be a very helpful tool, not returning the loan can harm your credit; therefore make sure to repay the full amount on time (your next payday). If you are in need of financial assistance visit www.payday.au and access a lender. There are several available through this address.

This $2.7 billion Business Tax Break is a key element of the Government's $42 billion Nation Building and Jobs Plan to support up to 90,000 Australian jobs.

The Small Business and General Business Tax Break will mean: * A small business that has bought and installs a $2,000 computer before the end of June 2009 can claim an additional $600 deduction in its 2008-09 tax return. * Small businesses can claim an additional 30 per cent tax deduction for eligible assets costing $1,000 or more that they acquire from 13 December 2008 to 30 June 2009, and install by 30 June 2010. * For eligible assets costing $1,000 or more that they acquire from 1 July 2009 to 31 December 2009, they can claim an additional 10 per cent deduction where they are installed by 31 December 2010.

To benefit from this tax break a small business must have a turnover of $2 million a year or less.

Other businesses can receive the same deductions for eligible assets greater than $10,000.

This will further boost business investment and confidence in the Australian economy in the face of the global recession.

Assets eligible for the allowance are new tangible depreciating assets and new expenditure on existing assets used in carrying on a business for which a deduction is available under the core provisions of Division 40 (Capital Allowances) in the Income Tax Assessment Act 1997.

Talk to your accountants for further details on your eligibility for these tax breaks.

STRUGGLING TO PAY YOUR TAX BILL? The Australian Tax Office is offering a self-service arrangement to pay your taxes an easier way by providing you with a level of flexibility. Phone the Personal Self Help line on 13 28 65 and ask the Tax Office to make a suggestion, or you can propose your own payment arrangement. If you are a business use the Business Self Help line 13 72 26. To use this service you will need your Tax File Number or your ABN and full details of your outstanding amount. If the proposal is accepted you will receive personalised payment slips within 15 days.

APJ 93

SCIENTIFIC NEWS This section will present news and research information relating to skin and anti-ageing discoveries.

Scientists take a new look at ancient remedies

In the study, rats with neuropathic pain were divided into two groups.

One group was treated with a standardised preparation of ginkgo biloba extract in varying doses, while the other group received a placebo.

Compared to the rats receiving the placebo, the animals treated with ginkgo biloba exhibited significant reductions in pain responses to both cold and pressure stimuli.

Among the treated animals, pain responses were diminished for at least two hours, and those receiving the highest doses of ginkgo biloba experienced the greatest pain-relieving effects.

This new study provides the first scientific evidence that extracts of ginkgo biloba can effectively reduce symptoms of neuropathic pain.

Although the mechanism of action isn’t fully understood, scientists speculate that ginkgo’s pain-relieving properties could be a result of the herb’s anti-inflammatory effects or antioxidant activity. Previous laboratory studies have shown that specific compounds in ginkgo block the actions of chemicals that injure and destroy nerve cells.

The results of a new study suggest that extracts of the herb ginkgo biloba may be effective in the treatment of neuropathic pain, a potentially debilitating condition commonly associated with nerve damage caused by injury, shingles and diabetes.

Neuropathic pain is a complex, chronic disorder in which damaged or dysfunctional nerve fibres misfire and otherwise malfunction. Although symptoms vary from person to person, neuropathic pain is often experienced as shooting pain, burning pain, tingling, numbness or extreme sensitivity to cold, heat or pressure.

Because it often responds poorly to pain medication and other standard painmanagement protocols, neuropathic pain has long been considered one of the most difficult types of pain to treat. When prescription drugs fail, many physicians and their patients often turn to alternative therapies for relief.

In a recent study, extracts of the herb ginkgo biloba proved to be effective in reducing symptoms of neuropathic pain. The results of the investigation were published in the June issue of the medical journal Anesthesia.

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Derived from the “tree of good health,” ginkgo biloba has been a major source of traditional Chinese remedies for over 4,000 years. The herb is commonly used to enhance memory and improve circulation throughout the brain and body. Because it has a mild anticlotting action on the blood, it’s best to use ginkgo with your physician’s supervision.

Another natural substance known for its ability to ease neuropathic pain is capsaicin, the chemical compound responsible for the “heat” of hot peppers. A remarkably powerful chemical, capsaicin can be detected by the human nervous system in concentrations as low as one part in 11 million.

For centuries, the capsaicin in hot peppers has been used to add a fiery spark to recipes. For just as long, it’s also been used as a medicinal agent to stimulate digestion and circulation, treat common infections and provide pain relief for a variety of conditions, ranging from arthritis to toothaches.

More recently, capsaicin has been used as an ingredient in products designed to warm hands and feet in cold weather. In high concentrations, capsaicin is extremely irritating to the skin and mucous membranes — it’s the substance that makes pepper spray such an effective weapon.

Over the past decade, thousands of scientific studies have confirmed the benefits of using capsaicin creams and gels in the treatment of

pain disorders, including those involving neuropathic pain. Capsaicin inhibits the action of substance P, a chemical messenger that transmits pain signals from nerve endings in the skin to the brain. When capsaicin is applied to painful areas of the body, nerve cells are stimulated to release their entire supply of substance P. Once depleted of the substance, nerve fibres are incapable of relaying pain messages to the brain for several hours.

A team of researchers recently reviewed the results of 16 scientific studies comparing capsaicin to a placebo in more than 1,500 individuals suffering from neuropathic pain.

The scientists found that after four weeks of treatment, 57 percent of patients using capsaicin gels or creams achieved significant pain reduction.

Used as directed, topically applied capsaicin creams and gels are safe and well-tolerated by most individuals. Skin irritation, burning and stinging are the most common side effects and usually improve after the first week of treatment.

Neuropathic pain is a complex disorder that often requires a multifaceted approach. When traditional treatments don’t provide complete relief, natural alternatives including capsaicin and ginkgo biloba may help ease suffering and make life as enjoyable as possible.

Research on Skin Bacteria Sets New Treatments in Motion Posted: June 19, 2009 A study done by the National Institutes of Health on the bacteria on different areas of the skin has potential implications for skin issues such as psoriasis, eczema, acne and more.

The health of our skin—one of the body's first lines of defence against illness and injury—depends upon the delicate balance between our own cells and the millions of bacteria and other one-celled microbes that live on its surface. To better understand this balance, National Institutes of Health researchers have set out to explore the skin's microbiome, which is all of the DNA, or genomes, of all of the microbes that inhabit human skin.

Their initial analysis, published in the journal Science, reveals that our skin is home to a much wider array of bacteria than previously thought. The study also shows that at least

among healthy people, the greatest influence on bacterial diversity appears to be body location. For example, the bacteria that live under your arms likely are more similar to those under another person’s arm than they are to the bacteria that live on your forearm.

“Our work has laid an essential foundation for researchers who are working to develop new and better strategies for treating and preventing skin diseases,” said Julia A. Segre, Ph.D., of the National Human Genome Research Institute (NHGRI), who was the study's senior author. “The data generated by our study are freely available to scientists around the world. We hope this will speed efforts to understand the complex genetic and environmental factors involved in eczema, psoriasis, acne, antibiotic-resistant infections and many other disorders affecting the skin.”

Drawing on the power of modern DNA sequencing technology and computational analysis, the research team from NHGRI, the National Cancer Institute (NCI) and the NIH Clinical Center uncovered a far more diverse collection of microbes on human skin than had been detected by traditional methods that involved growing microbial samples in the laboratory.

Novel way to turn skin cells into Stem cells

The technique uses laboratory-grown human embryonic stem cells to “reprogram” the genes in a person’s skin cell, turning that skin cell into an embryonic stem cell itself.

The approach details are still in an early stage of development. But if further studies confirm its usefulness, it could offer an end run around the heated social and religious ethics debate that has for years overshadowed the field of human embryonic stem-cell research.

Since the new stem cells in this technique are essentially rejuvenated versions of a person’s own skin cells, the DNA in those new stem cells matches the DNA of the person who provided the skin cells. In theory at least, that means that any tissues grown from those newly minted stem cells could be transplanted into the person to treat a disease without much risk that they would be rejected, because they would constitute an exact genetic match.

Until now, the only way to turn a person’s ordinary cell into a “personalised” stem-cell such as this was to turn that ordinary cell into an embryo first and later destroy the embryo to retrieve the new stem cells growing inside, a process widely known as “therapeutic cloning”.

That prospect, like others in the promising arena of human embryonic stem cell research, has stirred strong emotions among those who believe that days-old human embryos should not be intentionally destroyed.

Embryonic stem cells are capable of becoming virtually any kind of cell or tissue and are being intensely studied around the world as the core of a newly emerging field of regenerative medicine, in which researchers hope to grow new tissues to r e v i t a l i s e a i l i n g o rg a n s .

Although human embryonic stem cells have never been tested in humans, some researchers expect human clinical trials to begin within a year or so.

Researchers caution, however, that like many other nascent therapies that initially seemed promising, stem cells may never live up to their promise.

Chad A. Cowan, Kevin Eggan and colleagues from the Harvard Stem Cell Institute reported in the Science article that if some lingering, and potentially daunting uncertainties can be dealt with successfully, the new technique may circumvent some of the logistical and societal concerns that have hampered much of the research.

Scientists for the first time have turned ordinary skin cells into what appear to be embryonic stem cells without having to use human eggs or make new human embryos in the process, as has always been required in the past, a Harvard research team announced yesterday.

Some opponents of relaxing the current restrictions have argued that new techniques will soon eliminate the need to use human eggs or embryos to make cells that are, for all intents and purposes, human embryonic stem cells. They and others have for some months predicted that if such new findings were to

emerge, they could shift the balance of votes with government.

The researchers emphasise in their report that the technique is still far from finding an application in medicine. Most important, they note that because it involves the fusion of a stem-cell and a person's ordinary skin cell, the process leads to the creation of a hybrid cell.

While that cell has all the characteristics of a new embryonic stem cell, it contains the DNA of the person who donated the skin cell and also the DNA that was in the initial embryonic stem cell.

At some point before these hybrid cells are coaxed to grow into replacement parts to be transplanted into a person, that extra DNA must be extracted, the researchers write.

The team describes this task as a “substantial technical barrier” to the clinical use of stem cells made by the new technique. They do not mention that several teams, including ones in Illinois and Australia, have said in recent interviews that they are making progress removing stem cell DNA from such hybrid cells. None of those teams has published details of their results. But several leading researchers have said they believe it will be feasible to remove the extra DNA. Some even suspect that the new technique for making personalised stem cells would still work even if the “starter” stem cells’ DNA were removed before those cells were fused to the skin cells. It is not clear whether the genetic reprogramming imposed upon the skin cells by the fused stem cells requires the initial presence of the stem cells’ DNA, or whether fluids in the initial stem cells can do the job themselves.

“Their data are certainly very good . . . and quite significant,” said John Gearhart, a stem cell researcher at Johns Hopkins Medical Institutions. But the extra DNA “is problematic”.

“I think we have to keep our eye on the ball here,” Gearhart said. “If this stuff proves to work, that’s wonderful. But we're just not there yet, and it's going to take a long time to demonstrate that. Meanwhile, other techniques already work well. So let's get on with it.”

Still, it is fascinating, Gearhart said, to see such good evidence that something in embryonic stem cells is able to turn an ordinary skin cell into the equivalent of an embryonic stem cell – a genetic alchemy apparently accomplished by turning key genes in the skin cell either “on” or “off”.

Even if the work does not lead directly to clinical applications, he and the Harvard researchers said, it is likely to boost the amount and quality of research into what stem cells really are and how they work.

Information courtesy of Australasian Academy of Anti-Ageing Medicine A5M (www.a5m) Ph: 03 9813 0439

APJ 95

AESTHETIC INDUSTRY BULLETIN This section will present the latest news, training dates and other Aesthetic Industry information, including International Expo Calendar and Test Your Knowledge section.

TEST YOUR KNOWLEDGE

Permanent Cleavage With the trend for a robust cleavage, push-up bras are in hot demand. However, they can be uncomfortable.

Now an Israeli company is developing a surgically embedded bra they have named Cup&Up. The procedure is a minimally invasive mastopexy that is reported to require only two small incisions. A silicone cup is inserted and attached to the rib cage, where it acts as a support to the natural breast tissue. Their target market are women in the early stages of ptosis or breast sagging.

How well have you retained the information you have gained from this Journal? We are giving you the opportunity to test your knowledge. Why not give these questions a go? You will find the exact answers within the articles in this journal. Once you have completed your answers go to page 95 for the correct answers.

Q 1. Name the two vitamins in cosmetic formulations that are susceptible to light and need to be in dark containers?

Q 2. The horny layer of the skin is a lipophilic layer therefore, which products would pass through easier through the skin, water-based or oil-based products?

Q 3.

How thick is the stratum corneum?

Q 4. Under laboratory conditions the use of low frequency sonophoresis can enhance product penetration up to how many times better than simple manual application?

Q 5. Name five common mineral powders that characterise an authentic mineral makeup?

WE HAVE A WINNER

Q 6.

What are telomeres?

Q 7.

What is the Hayflick limit?

Q 8. What is the most common characteristic of Vitiligo?

Q 9. What is the anti-inflammatory compound that has been discovered in rosehip called?

If you joined as a member of the Aesthetic Practitioners Advisory Network (APAN) by the 10th September you were in the draw to win 100 lovely, personalised VOGUE NAIL FILES all with your logo and contact details printed on them.

The gift was donated courtesy of 4CP Promotional Products & Graphic Design. 4CP stock a variety of cost-effective ($1-2) promotional items such as mirrors, soaps, files and pocket diaries on which your business logo and contact details can be printed. This makes a fun way of rewarding your clients with a gift and extending your brand awareness (see Product Releases for further details). The winner of the members’ draw was a delighted Toni Lane from Lush, Body and Soul in Kalgoorlie, Western Australia. Congratulations, Toni. We have another draw for anyone who joints by the 30th October 2009, so if you haven’t joint as yet, here is your chance to be in the draw.

Download a membership form from www.apanetwork.com and be in the draw.

APJ 96

Q 10. What has Sea Buckthorn oil traditionally been used for?

Q 11. What is Matrixyl and why is it used in skincare?

Q. 12. Recent research has confirmed that the herb binkgo biloba has been shown to be effective against what condition?

Q 13. How do AHAs differ from BHAs in terms of the solubility?

Q 14. Is it correct to say that hydroxy acids are keratolytic agents?

Q 15. How can laser biomodulation benefit in body treatments?

drying on their skin, while others notice improvements in their complexion, like reduced blemishes”.

International Aesthetic & Spa Show Calendar 2009 Produced by Terry Everitt Aesthetic Educators

Herbal oil promises hope for vitiligo sufferers Vitiligo, as indicated in the article by Terry Everitt in this journal, is a very stubborn and demoralising skin condition that is characterised by patches of hypopigmentation (a lack of colour pigment) in the skin. There is currently no known cure, however, one company is promising some hope with a new, natural herbal oil.

Anti-Leucoderma™ oil (Anti-Vitiligo Oil™) is a pure herbal oil for vitiligo treatment. A solution for vitiligo skin disorders, white, pink or any type of vitiligo patches. Anti-Vitiligo Oil™ is now being used in many countries of the world with high success rates and known as the most effective herbal remedy for the treatment of vitiligo. The company claims that re-pigmentation with vitiligo herbal oil is very fast, with results mostly visible within two months and even sooner with some individuals. The company claims that the repigmentation of the skin with Anti Vitiligo Oil™ is permanent. All the ingredients used in preparation of Anti-Leucoderma™ Herbal Oil are purely of herbal origin.

We do not believe that Anti-Leucoderma oil is available in Australia, however, you can find out more about it on www.antivitiligooil.com/vitiligocure.htm

Skin Treatment for post-cancer survivors Cancer survivors are encouraged to return to their original beauty routines after treatment, but many complain that due to the changes in their body after undergoing chemotherapy and radiation, their old products are no longer as effective.

According to oncologist Dr. Diana Cua, cancer survivors “have different reactions to chemotherapeutic drug agents. Some patients notice greying or

Although chemotherapy has unpredictable results that vary from person to person, doctors advise going back to your routine after treatments have been completed. “It is prudent to avoid exotic agents that may irritate skin while going through treatment,” says Cua. A skin disorder called folliculitis may develop if the skin reacts badly to external products while on anti-cancer treatment. Symptoms of this include itchy skin, rashes and pimples.

Patients going through chemotherapy are also advised against eating raw food. The low white blood cell count lowers their immune system; bacteria found in uncooked food could also cause infections. At the worst, the patient may become critically ill and will require intravenous antibiotics in order to recover.

Weight issues also depend on each person. While some gain weight from chemo, others drop pounds. Dietary advice is given accordingly, and women who have gained weight are allowed to diet and exercise, while women who lost weight are recommended to eat more.

For those wondering when their hair will start growing back, Dr. Cua says that they should start seeing some growth a month after conclusion of chemotherapy.

“There is no evidence that applying certain hair or scalp products will speed up hair growth,” she warns. “Generally, hair grows naturally at the rate of half an inch per month.”

Post-cancer patients can benefit from hydrating treatments, aromatherapy and gentle therapies that boost immunity and help to revive the skin.

White Tea Good for Health and Ageing Drinking white tea delivers anti-ageing potential and high levels of antioxidants that may reduce the risk of cancer, heart disease, rheumatoid arthritis and age-related wrinkles, according to new research from the Kingston University in the UK. Researchers from Kingston University and Neal’s Yard Remedies tested health properties of 21 plant and herb extracts. Findings showed white tea prevented the activities of the enzymes that break down elastin and collagen, which can lead to wrinkles. These

Oct 4-6

I n t e r n a t i o n a l Tr a d e F a i r f o r Perfumery, Toiletries and Cosmetics

Bombay Exhibition Centre Mumbai, India T: +91 - 22- 22021377 F: +91 - 22-22027243

millie.contractor@india.messefrankfurt.com

Oct 5-8

ISPA Conference & Expo Austin Convention Center Austin, Texas. USA T: +1.859.226.4326 F: +1.859.226.4445

Email: ispa@ispastaff.com

Oct 11-12 Professional Beauty Manchester Central Petersfield, Manchester, UK T: +44 20 77285000 Email: marilyn.foyle@emap.com

Oct 18-19 Esthetique Spa International Calgary Stampede Park Roundup Center - Hall D, Calgary, Canada T: + 450 434-4738F: + 450 435-2027 Email: info@spa-show.com

Oct 18-19 Premiere Birmingham Birmingham Jefferson Convention Center Birmingham, Alabama, USA T: +1 407 2653131 F: +1 407 2653134 Email: info@premiershows.com

Oct 25-26 International Congress of Esthetics & Spa Pennsylvania Convention Center Philadelphia, PA T: +1 305 443-2322 F: +1 305 443-1664

Email: registration@lneonline.com

Oct 26-28 Beautyworld, Japan West INTEX, Osaka Nanko Cosmo Square, Osaka, Japan T: +81 6 6612-1234 beautyworld@messefrankfurst.com

Nov 1-2

Esthetique Spa International Downtown Metro Toronto Convention Centre(North Building - Hall C) Toronto (Ontario) Canada T: + 450 434-4738 F: + 450 435-2027 Email: info@spa-show.com

Nov 11-13 Cosmoprof Asia Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre, 1 Harbour Road Wanchai, Hong Kong Tel : +39 02 796 420 Fax : +39 02 795 036

E-mail : sogecos@cosmoprof.com

APJ 97

enzymes, along with oxidants, are associated with inflammatory diseases such as rheumatoid arthritis.

“These enzymes and oxidants are key components of normal body processes.

However, in inflammatory conditions, suppressing the activities of these excess components has been the subject of decades of research. We were surprised to find such high activity for the white tea extracts in all five tests that were conducted,” the researchers wrote.

Eight of the other plants and herbs analysed also helped protect against the breakdown of both elastin and collagen.

After white tea, bladderwrack performed well followed by extracts of cleavers, rose, green tea, angelica, anise and pomegranate.

During the wrinkle study on Matrixyl serum, profilometry (image analysis of skin) to measure the density, depth and volume of wrinkles around the eyes was used. During the first split-face (double-blind) trial, there were 49 women who applied the Matrixyl cream or a placebo twice daily. At two months, Matrixyl showed greater improvement than the retinol cream without irritation.

In another 12-week study, which was conducted

by Proctor & Gamble, it was also found nonprescription Matrixyl serum can give significant benefits for reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, age spots and skin firmness.

Reference: website www.dermaradiant.com.

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* Sources: Kingston University: White tea could keep you healthy and looking young

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Matrixyl Serums Show Dramatic Improvement In Wrinkles Recent studies on Matrixyl serum show the skincare ingredient can dramatically improve wrinkles.

The results of a four-month French study, presented at the World Congress of Dermatology, showed the amino-peptide complex known as Matrixyl produced dramatic changes on ageing skin. The study showed Matrixyl serum could reduce wrinkle depth by 50%, wrinkle density by 50% and wrinkle volume by 50%. The study included topical application of non-prescription Matrixyl cream. The Matrixyl serum improved wrinkle appearance faster than retinol. In addition, it did so without causing irritation and redness.

APJ 98

Salon Spa Profit Building Masterclass This Salon Spa Profit Building Masterclass has been designed for the business owner or manager who is looking to develop their management skills, drive business growth and motivate their team to higher productivity and improved sales.

Presented by Caroline Nelson, beauty industry specific business coach and marketing and retail guru and proudly sponsored by OrganicSpa Skincare. This fullday program will be actionpacked with nuts & bolts information to get your cash register singing. Included in the program will be: ! The Salon/Spa Profit Building Blue-Print ! Pump Up Your Retail Sales ! Low-Cost High Impact Marketing for the holiday season Venue: Victoria Park Function Centre, Brisbane Date & Time: Monday 16th November 9.00am – 5.00pm Fee: $69 including morning & afternoon tea, lunch and work book Bookings: Phone 02 6680 3266 or Toni 0430 450 036

ANSWERS TO TEST YOUR KNOWLEDGE A 1.

Vitamins A and B12.

A 2.

Oil-based products.

A 3.

0.01-0.02mm thick.

A 4.

Up to 40 times better.

A5. Zinc, titanium dioxide, iron oxides, mica and boron nitrride.

A6. Telomeres are caps at the end of our DNA, which protect the end of a chromosome from destruction.

A7. The Hayflick limit is the number of times a normal cell poplation will devide before it stops.

A8. Hypopigmentation or patches with a lack of pigment.

A9.

Galactolipid (GOPO).

A10. Promote healing in skin injuries, such as burns and wounds.

A11. Matrixyl is an amino acid complex that is used in skincare formulation to reduce the appearance of wrinkles.

A12. Ginkgo Biloba has been proven effective in the treatment of neuropathic pain.

A13. Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) are water soluble, whereas Beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) are lipid soluble?

A14. No. Hydroxy acids loosen the intercellular cement facilitating exfoliation of corneocytes and actually repairing the horny layer.

A15. Laser biomodulation assists with alleviation of inflammation in the deeper tissues of the body and joint spaces as well as improving blood flow to the joint and regeneration of injured bone, nerves and cartilage.