Aesthetics Practitioners Journal
AESTHETICS
PRACTITIONERS Journal The official publication of the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd ISSN: 1836-9812
Spring Issue Volume 14. 2012
Spring Issue Volume 14.
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APAN INDUSTRY REPORTS, NEWS AND PRODUCTS
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CEO's Heart 2 Heart Report New Trends that just got Better Aesthetic Bulletin Product Innovations
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REGULATIONS AND EDUCATION 50-51
New Tool for determining the correct rate of pay – Pay Check Plus
SCIENTIFIC RESEARCH, TREATMENTS AND TECHNOLOGY 20-21 36-37 52-54 64-70 72-74
Ancient Wisdom newly discovered The power of Minerals New advances in the application of RF in Aesthetics Thalazur Ouistreham – Normandy Nutrigenomics – Taking nutritional medicine to the next level 75 Book Review – Switched on 92-95 Scientific News 98-99 Collagen Induction Therapy and the Devil's Advocate 100-103 The Beauty of Skin Whitening 104-106 The Theory of Quantum Physics and its implications in Aesthetics Part I 108-109 How Licorice can benefit the skin
BUSINESS, PERSONAL AND PROFESSIONAL DEVELOPMENT 14-17 28-30 32-33 44-45
“On the Couch” with Dr Des Fernandes Stating it as it is Customer Service at a whole new business-building level How to sustain long-term business success through company culture 76-77 Feedback on Results is the Breakfast of Champions 80-81 Member profile 90-91 Understanding Client Communication 96 Recruitment gets a facelift 207 Are you considering a Price Increase? 110-113 Business in Brief
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SEMINARS, EXPOS AND CONFERENCES 12-14
Australian Aesthetics Conferences 2012
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6th Annual 2012 Conference in Anti-Ageing and Aesthetic Medicine International Aesthetic Calendar APAN Launches New Horizons Conference in Sydney Reaching North Queensland with Dynamic Education
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Editor Tina Viney 07 5593 0360
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Typesetting & Graphics Mark Viney Advertising and Marketing Tina Viney Phone: 07 5593 0360 Email: info@apanetwork.com Mark Viney Phone: 0412 177 423 Email: apj@apanetwork.com Fax: 07 5593 0367
Setting an example is not the main means of influencing others, it is the only means. Albert Einstein
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Welcome to APJ
Publishers Kharis Enterprises Pty Ltd Design, Production and Artwork Kharis Enterprises Pty Ltd Produced for Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd ACN 136 987 169 ABN 25 136 987 169 Web: www.apanetwork.com Print Post Approved. Circulation 6000 Accounts Manager Laraine Coyle accounts@apanetwork.com Accounts Payable Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd (APAN) PO Box 5448 Q Super Centre Qld 4218 Journal Advisory Board Terry Everitt (Education) Wendy Neely (PR & Marketing) Dr Douglas Grose (Scientific) Caroline Nelson (Business) National Advisory Council John Fergusson Terry Everitt Bill Anton Gill Fish Vanessa Kirkham Maureen Houssein-Mustafa
By the time this issue of APJ arrives to you we will have been well and truly into spring. As the days are getting longer and warmer they beckon us to enjoy the pleasure of a new season and to look forward to new things ahead. In this issue of APJ you will read a great deal about various conferences and educational programs that have happened across Australia over the past few months. If you have attended these events look out as you may see your photo somewhere among the crowds. If you haven't attended, then there is much food for thought in the journal about how these events are transforming lives and more specifically, businesses, and we want you to have the same experience. The other day I was consulting with a salon owner and she told me that providing she presents her information in the right way she has no problems getting clients to pay up to $4000 instantly for a tailor-made program that will benefit them. Wouldn't we all want to attract that kind of client that wants the best and has the money to pay for it? These clients do exist, but we can only draw them to our salons and clinics if we can demonstrate to them that we are not only professional, but an authority on our subject.
ISSN: 1836-9812
Within this issue of the journal you will also find numerous article s– both technical and on modern business strategies that will help support you to become that kind of authority. Our information at times may be a little technical, but it is amazing what you can absorb with patience, so next time you hear about nutrigenomics or the Nrf2 gene switch, you will say, “I learnt all about that in the spring issue of APJ”. Increasing your knowledge is about taking one step at a time, gaining one element of information at a time, digesting it, but doing this consistently. Collectively, over a period of time you will look back and be amazed at how much you have enhanced your knowledge. This journal is committed to expanding your knowledge on a consistent basis, so happy reading and stay at the top of your profession. Enjoy life!
http://www.facebook.com/APAN.page
The Aesthetics Practitioners Journal is the official publication of the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd, a network organisation established to service the needs of the aesthetics industry in the area of professional development and business networking. The Aesthetics Practitioners Journal is published quarterly for the benefit of its members and subscribers and aims to inform and educate its members on better business practices and industry advancements.
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All editorials and articles that are submitted for publishing remain the property of Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd. Reproduction in part or in whole is not permitted without prior written authorisation by the publishers. Every effort has been made to ensure that all scientific and technical information presented is as accurate as possible at the time of publishing. However, members and readers are highly recommended to also seek external advice from their accountant, registered financial adviser or healthcare professional for their recommendations.
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CEO’s Heart 2 Heart REPORT
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Dear Colleagues and Friends
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During the past few weeks APAN has been named the “happening place” as the momentum is building up with plans for new growth strategies to support businesses in 2013.
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While a struggling economy has resulted in many businesses closing down, on closer observation we have identified a common thread throughout all businesses that have succeeded. So what is this common thread?
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Overwhelmingly, businesses that have not only survived, but also experienced growth of up to 30% that have invested in credible and sound education. This has allowed them to change their current position of uncertainty to a more secure one by introducing new and more advanced treatment modalities and business strategies. This phenomenon has also been echoed in Gay Wardle's report in this journal on pages 28-30 as well as numerous other industry experts. When business slows down this is not the time to stumble in indecision. You need to gain new knowledge to determine how to overcome challenges, while intensifying your vision like never before.
THE LAUNCH OF A NEW NAME So what is APAN doing about it? As a member-based organisation APAN has been conducting a conference/expo each year. However, this year we conducted two such events - one in Townsville Queensland and one in Sydney, directly after the International Spa and Beauty Expo.
Be not afraid of growing slowly. Be afraid of standing still.
Experience and feedback have confirmed to us that these events are a great tool in supporting professional development and strengthening business performance and growth to a more robust level. From this observation we have decided that in 2013 we will be introducing three events with the new brand name of AUSTRALIAN AESTHETIC CONFERENCES. First off we will be staging our conference in Adelaide on Sunday, May 26th, then Sydney on Monday, 26th August and Gold Coast Sunday, 27th October.
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These conferences are commercially objective and are fully certified by APAN as official industry educational and professional development programs. Their aim is to empower you with a cross section of credible information from new industry trends, financial forecasts, business development tools as well as introducing you to new technologies and changes in the industry that you need to consider when planning for the future. The ultimate objective is to continue to foster in you an achiever mindset and to provide you with a unique industry platform that will attract positive-minded people to gather and gain leading information that can transform their lives and their businesses for the better.
More specifically, the reasons why these events are having such an impact on those who attend them lie in their ultimate design to not only deliver a comprehensive cross section of business and industry information, but also benefits on several other layers, including allowing delegates to: ! Speak one-on-one with industry experts and presenters with greater time availability. ! Engage and interact with credible suppliers, without the stress and rush that is characteristic of large expos. ! Networking with other positive likeminded professionals through a community of practice.
When business slows down this is not the time to stumble in indecision. You need to gain new knowledge to determine how to overcome challenges, while intensifying your vision like never before.
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There have been some great friendships forged at these events. There is nothing more exciting that to meet a colleague from another State who is happy to hook up with you and share some of their knowledge.
I don't think we realise sometimes how being intensely focused on what we do can leave us drained and burnt out – void of new ideas and credible information that can keep our clients excited to continue to learn from us and to draw from our knowledge.
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How often do you get the opportunity to gain a bird's eye view of an industry in transition? Business owners are often so busy motivating others that they forget that their own tank is drying up. To continue to get great results from their staff and their business they need from time to time to take time out to have an event such as this input back into them and inspire them through quality education. The whole aim here is not to be good at what you do, but to also be perceived by the public as having the authority to speak on your subject because you are the best expert they can find. This kind of recognition only comes with ongoing knowledge and education that collectively will elevate your communication above and beyond the average to the extraordinary. Don't be fooled that by dropping your prices, it will get others running to you – maybe for the short-term, meanwhile your discounting will send you broke as it has done to so many businesses. The professional approach is to add value, and the best value you can give someone is for them to know that they are in the best hands and the service and treatment they will receive is highly esteemed and valuable because they are the best in the industry. This is the kind of professional individual that APAN wishes to invest in nurturing. To do this we must ensure that the education we present to you will help you achieve your goals as industry authorities and not just therapists or practitioners.
NEW LEVEL OF MEMBERSHIP As the organisation’s identity evolves so we are seeing the need to accommodate the industry's needs more specifically.
Currently APAN has three levels of membership: ! Gold Membership – this is suited to the smaller business, employee or sole practitioner
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Corporate Platinum Membership – this is suited to the larger
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establishment that requires more regular and in-depth services and expert consultation, mentoring and coaching. Student Membership – for those still in training.
Because of our commitment to advanced education we are progressively getting members who are doctors, nurses and dermal therapists. These professionals have their own special needs and they want to know that our professional services and advice acknowledges and can cater for these needs. As a result we have just launched two new membership classifications:
For aesthetic nurses and dermal therapists we have introduced: Gold Membership (Degree qualification) – this category aims at
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supporting and in providing not only the general benefits of APAN membership, but also looking at ways of assisting and representing them through a voice with government during a wage award review as well as through business and professional consultation and recommendations that are unique to their employment and professional development needs.
For the medical practitioner or specialist we have introduced: Corporate Platinum Membership (Medical) – several doctors and plastic surgeons have joined APAN not only for the business member benefits, but also for our support in helping them transition into an aesthetic-medical practice through the appropriate guidance they may need in employing and developing staff that are aesthetic therapists. Furthermore, we also support them by helping them understand the Industrial Relations and Health Regulations that are necessary for
their staff to comply wit h, as well as strategies and protocols that are unique to an aesthetics practice.
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Additionally, medical aesthetics is a very different mindset to a medical practice. There are very different dynamics that govern a medical aesthetic practice to a medical practice. Through consultation and coaching APAN can assist these practices to position themselves advantageously.
COMMITTED TO A5M
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As you would know APAN has a strategic alliance relationship with the AustralAsian Academy of Anti-Ageing Medicine (A5M), which we value and highly cherish. We recognise A5M as the premier antiageing medical society whose principles on anti-ageing are based on scientific evidence-based research that addresses the issue of disease prevention, longevity and aesthetic medicine.
While APAN has an obligation and commitment to continue to improve the quality of its educational events we will still remain highly committed to A5M and recognise the level of knowledge that is presented at the A5M Anti-ageing and Aesthetic Medical Conferences as being unrivalled. Our objective is therefore to continue to profile the benefit of aesthetic therapists attending the A5M Medical and Aesthetic Conferences and this we will continue to present at our own events. Both have their place and value to an aesthetic or medical aesthetic practitioner. We believe that each event has its own unique merits and we do not perceive that there is any rivalry between our events, or that in any way one is trying to replace the other. In fact, the APAN Conferences will aim to help you better appreciate and understand information presented at A5M Medical and Aesthetic Conferences. We will therefore continue to support the need and benefits of attending both as an excellent investment to your professional development.
ARPANSA* REPORT As I mentioned in my report in the Winter issue of APJ I am currently on ARPANSA's Working Group whose task is to investigate the evidence that points how best to monitor standards and the need for the appropriate legislation. By the time the journal goes to print the first Industry Survey would have been released and I trust you will all see the importance of giving us your feedback, as this will determine the next step. If you are practising IPL or Laser technician, please take note of these surveys as your feedback will greatly determine how the government will perceive the need and determine the extent of their involvement and we all know that this industry is well overdue for regulations. Wherever you are in your profession or business we want you to know that APAN is committed to providing you with the most up-to-date information and the most credible industry support and education. Please take advantage of both our services and our events. Accessing this information and gaining from our support will motivate and empower us to continue to provide you with the very best service and leading industry events.
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Committed to your progress
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Chief Executive Officer Please forward your communication to: Tina Viney, APAN, PO Box 5448, Q Super Centre Q 4218
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*Australian Radiation Protection and Nuclear SafetyAgency
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ASK THE EXPERT Solutions, insights and advice for problems that arise at work
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Claiming vehicle deductions can be tricky so it is important that you do your research before buying a work vehicle. While purchasing a vehicle is a common tax deduction for most businesses the section of the tax law that relates to motor vehicles is one of the most complicated. There are at least four different methods that can be used to claim motor vehicle expenses and each method has its own rules. Here are some considerations: As you will be buying a passenger vehicle rather than a commercial vehicle you will need to maintain a log book for 12 weeks to maximise the amount you can claim as a tax deduction. The log book will establish a percentage for business use. You can claim this percentage of all of the costs of the car. The types of costs you can claim on include fuel, registration, insurance and repairs. The cost of the vehicle can also be claimed depending on how you finance the purchase. The renting that people have been talking about might refer to a method of finance called hire purchase. Whether you pay for the vehicle with cash or use hire purchase the $25,000 cost will be claimed in two stages. Small businesses buying vehicles from July 1 this year can claim a tax deduction for the first $5000 in the year the vehicle is purchased. The $20,000 balance can be claimed as depreciation over a number of years. If, however, you choose to lease the car you can claim a tax deduction for the lease costs you pay each year. Unfortunately under this method you will not be able to claim the upfront $5000 deduction.
APAN can assist you with leasing and lending facilities for purchasing vehicles, equipment or a business for that matter. However, it is also advisable to discuss any such decisions with your accountant.
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Question 1: I want to purchase a vehicle and claim it as a business expense, but I believe there are new requirements by the Tax Office for this. I am a selfemployed contractor and use my car for business, as well as for private purposes. I am looking to purchase a sedan vehicle for approximately $25,000 and I need to know what tax implications I need to consider. Also, can you advise me if I should rent a car instead for a certain number of years? Can you please give me some guidance on this?
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Question 2: I am approaching retirement age and I would like to position my business as a valuable asset for sale, what do I need to have in place? This is a very good question. Too many times we see people working hard over the years and then reaching burn-out, or just reaching a point
where they want to retire, but have no exit strategy on how their hard work can give then a great return on their investment through an appropriate sale. Here are just some of the key areas you need to have in place that can allow your potential buyer to independently guage the value of the investment they are purchasing: 1. First thing you need to do is to make sure that your financials are in order and that your books are up-to-date. Speak to your accountant and if necessary hire a bookkeeper to ensure that everything is set up correctly and easy to follow so that your figures can be validated. A business needs to demonstrate that it is viable and well organised. 2. Next you need to ensure you have your Policies and Procedures in place with regards to how you operate your services. This includes daily cleaning, health and hygiene practices, cash flow and banking procedures, updating the database and client consultation procedures. You will also need to present relevant documents such as your Cancellation Policy, Privacy Policy and Refund Policy that contribute to a professional environment. 3. If you have staff you will need to present evidence of a comprehensive HR Document that is in place that clearly defines the requirements and expectations of each staff member. No one wants to inherit staff who don’t have clear direction on what they are doing and are working without specific guidelines, especially when you have a changeover of ownership. 4. Additionally, you need to have an organised and updated client database as in essence this is where your potential business will be drawn from and therefore your database can be a strong indicator of the potential volume of business that can be generated. 5. You must also be able to demonstrate your marketing, advertising and promotional activities such as Facebook that is regularly updated or provide some evidence of activities. 6. Regulatory requirements including health regulations in line with your State and Territory laws must also be in place and evidence must be presented of policies and procedures that validate their compliance. If you have none of these in place or just have elements of deficiencies APAN is here to help you. We have a list of resource documents that you can purchase at a small fee to help you put your affairs in order. These documents also include a Succession Plan Template that can help you simplify this process. This is a 16-page document and only costs $35. We also have a comprehensive HR Manual Template, Business Plan Template and numerous other documents. In fact, we have over 46 documents that can help you quickly streamline your business in line for a sale or just to help improve your current working operations.
If we can assist you further please do not hesitate to contact APAN on 07 5593 0360. If you would like your questions answered by an APAN Expert send them to the editor at info@apanetwork.com. Your privacy will be maintained and your name will not be disclosed.
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Introducing two new APAN MEMBERSHIP CLASSIFICATIONS When it comes to Membership APAN recognises that not everyone is the same. As the aesthetics industry is becoming more specialised it is a fact that different professionals have different needs.
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CORPORATE PLATINUM (Medical) For healthcare practitioners and doctors Medical aesthetics requires a very different mindset to a medical practice. Several doctors and plastic surgeons have joined APAN not only for the member business benefits, but also for industry specific support that is offered in helping their transition into an aesthetic medical practice. These include, but not limited to, developing a culture, staff recruitment, industrial relations, policies and procedures for the practice of aesthetic modalities, as well as appropriate legal advice when needed.
GOLD (Degree Qualification) Nurses, Dermal Therapists and other This category aims at supporting and providing not only the general benefits of APAN membership, but also the specific needs of this classification of membership through a voice with government during wage award reviews and professional development. APAN also provides professional consultation and specific business recommendations that are unique to the employment and professional development of this sector.
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The Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network (APAN) invites you to join them as a member and gain the support and representation you need to achieve success in your practice and business.
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Contact APAN today for further details or download an Application Form Phone: 07 55930360 | Email: info@apanetwork.com | website www.apanetwork.com
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AUSTRALIAN AESTHETICS CONFERENCES 2013 Hosted by the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network In a constantly changing world standards and not discounting have been identified as the new marketing tool that will contribute to business growth in 2013. The Australian Aesthetics Conferences are the most credible and dynamic platforms to gain insight about changes ahead and learn what tools will work for you in 2013 and beyond.
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Delivering high quality generic education the Australian Aesthetics Conferences are Australia's leading Professional Development Program independent of any commercial influences.
2013 will see three events in three different States:
SOUTH AUSTRALIA Adelaide, Sunday 26th May
NSW Sydney, Monday 26th August
QUEENSLAND Gold Coast, Sunday 27th October
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Niche and dynamic these events bring a new level of life to the regions through a carefully planned high-quality educational program that is also supported by a boutique style exhibition.
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DISCOVER global trends, industry projections and
WHAT OTHERS SAY ABOUT APAN'S SEMINARS:
financial forecasts
“I attended my first APAN Expo in Sydney this year and was thrilled to find the day packed with absorbing and actionable content specifically relevant to business owners. There were myriad topics, covered by experienced and qualified experts, ranging from social media and new radio-frequency technologies to interpreting the Fair Work Act and the necessity of indemnifying your business with adequate industryspecific insurance cover.
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LEARN staff development skills and successful client ㈵
loyalty and business building strategies, social media, industrial relations and wage regulations
EXPLORE new technologies - IPL/Laser updates, anti-ageing protocols and scientific research findings on ingredients
ACHIEVE a new level of understanding and gain new knowledge on advanced business and skills development options
INTERACT with industry authorities, educators and likeminded professionals
ADD status and kudos to your professional development through an industry peak body Certified Program
GROW in knowledge and confidence GAIN the competitive advantage in the market place
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“I've been in the industry for over nine years and every year I have been dedicated to furthering my industry knowledge; I have done this by being a regular attendee at seminars and expos all over the country, so you can imagine I'm familiar with the somewhat repetitious content (albeit wrapped in shiny new packaging)... And there is value in having important information drummed into you… BUT these are challenging times and the paradigms have changed forever. Understanding future trends, shifting one's thinking and developing focused action plans are now the new business mission, so imagine my excitement when it instantly became apparent that this APAN Expo had been organised to deliver just that! “I have found Tina to be an exceptionally committed entrepreneur – dedicated to supporting higher standards within the industry and someone who loves nothing more than to help and support her members. If Tina doesn't have the answers, she'll call on other experts whom she believes has. Being a member of APAN is an important pillar to the success of running my business.
“I found this Expo to be superior to others and exceptionally good value for money. I will definitely commit to attending more wherever they may be.” Lesley Morgan-Wesson (Owner), LADY AT BAY, Neutral Bay, NSW
Who should attend: Salon and spa owners Practitioners and therapists IPL/Laser therapists Dermal therapists
Aesthetic nurses
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Educators and trainers
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FEES: APAN Members $149 | Non-Members $169 | Book all three and receive 20% Discount Book these dates in your diary and make this event a priority in 2013 APJ 13 Phone: 07 5593 0360 | Email: info@apanetwork.com | www.apanetwork.com
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“On the Couch” with Dr Des Fernandes By Tina Viney
On the occasion of Dr Des Fernandes’ visit to Australia Margi Fox Distributors and agents for Environ Skincare in Queensland and Victoria staged two seminars – Brisbane and Melbourne, as eager salon owners flocked to meet the formulator and face behind the Environ Skincare brand. Des Fernandes is a gracious, unassuming gentleman, who despite his fame and reputation as a renowned plastic surgeon in South Africa and known globally as the inventor of Environ, is very approachable and accommodating. His gentle manner endears him to all who have the privilege of meeting him and this visit presented no exception, as he was greeted by eager salon and clinic owners wishing to meet him in person.
I was fortunate enough to have been asked by Margi Fox to conduct an open interview with him at both events, which gave rise to the title of these as “On the Coach with Des Fernandes”. Indeed, this was a role reversal as usually, as a plastic surgeon it is he who probes and analyses his patients to determine the best course of action. However, it was our turn to “examine” him and enquire of his knowledge, views and opinions.
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Despite all probabilities I did come armed with some pointed questions to present to him, however, on arrival I was greeted by Eddie Norcross, the very capable National Manager for Margi Fox Distributors, who issued me with a large folder full of questions that had been submitted by various salon owners. But before we look at the interview let's take a step back and look at the broader landscape of Environ and the reputation of its founder.
WHO IS DES FERNANDES? For those who do not know him Dr Des Fernandes is acknowledged by several authoritative professional bodies as one of the top 10 Plastic Surgeons in the world and as one of the first medical professionals to introduce Vitamin A in effective doses in his first skincare range. This range established Environ as a world leader in skincare, a position for which Environ still is renowned, while the brand is currently available in over 26 countries. As a plastic surgeon his interest in skincare was birthed out of a need to help some of his patients with severe skin concerns find appropriate solutions. In researching the benefits of vitamins Dr Fernandes become completely convinced of the merits of vitamin A and its benefit in skin health and so his quest to establish effective products led to the development of Environ, which is strongly based on several treatment-strength doses of antioxidants, such as vitamins A, C, E and beta-carotene and in recent times, other antioxidants that have been added such as power phytonutrients such as Resveratrol, Green Tea, Honeybush Extract and Rooibos Tea.
As an academic and a medical specialist his formulas are required to meet with very stringent and rigorous quality control measures and all ingredients must be backed by independent scientific validations.
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When it comes to his formulas Dr Fernandes is very much a purist. He is a strong believer in staying within the realms of reliable and pure antioxidants, which are at the core of his formulations. He holds this position because he strongly believes that there is strong scientific evidence that this is the best way to deliver long-term skin benefits and improvement.
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are particularly susceptible to light and need to be in dark containers. One also has to consider the formulation so that the antioxidants and vitamins remain stable in the final product so that they deliver a standardised measure of active ingredients that remain consistent and at the required potency at the time of skin delivery. Some vitamins such as vitamin C (ascorbic acid), once dissolved in water, have a very limited shelf life of about three weeks before they become oxidised and Eddie Norcross, Phillip Fernandez, Tina Viney, Des Fernandes and Margi Fox inactive. Water-soluble variants of vitamin C A DAY FULL OF ACTIVITY (e.g. magnesium Ascorbyl phosphate etc), although more stable, are The days started with charismatic guest speaker, business coach and also rather reactive and may only have a shelf life of about six months, human strategist Phillip Fernandez (no relations to Des) who spoke on whereas the esters of ascorbic acid (especially Ascorbyl ”Powerful Communications that Produce Excellent Outcomes”. tetraisopalmitate) are much more stable and have a shelf life of over 18 Phillip inspired his audience with concepts and strategies for months. improved communication and better business outcomes. By using esters, particularly palmitic acid esters, we can keep the This was followed by a comprehensive lecture by Dr Fernandes, who active ingredient protected and be certain that it will be more easily spoke on “The First Time – A perspective for 2012”. In this lecture absorbed into the cell where the active antioxidant or vitamin can be Dr Fernandes presented his views and convictions on how to address released by metabolic processes in the cell. Another effective way to skin conditions and also discussed technologies as well as the new protect antioxidants is to ensure that the formula is enriched with other innovative tool that was launched at these events – the new antioxidants. IONZYME GOLD ROLL-CITTM and the value of skin needling as a modality for enhanced product penetration and stimulating collagen “One of the reasons that Environ skincare is so effective is because we production into the skin. take extreme care to ensure the correct protocols that preserve quality and potency and therefore the product's ability to deliver the end Following lunch, the “On the Couch” session, which I facilitated, results. All products are manufactured in-house in our own plant so we gave me the opportunity to explore some of his concepts further, can be assured that these quality measures are maintained. which was an interesting and enlightening experience for all present. “Now we can move to address the problem of getting the antioxidants Several of the questions were centred on the issue of antioxidants and or vitamins into the skin, and particularly into the cell cytoplasm. Here vitamins and their capability to penetrate the skin versus the strength we have to consider the solubility of the ingredient that we want to get and quality of the ingredients in order to achieve best treatment into the cell. Water-soluble ingredients have an inherent difficulty of outcomes. We therefore spent a great deal of time discussing these getting through the stratum corneum as well as the cell wall, because issues. His answers were very systematic and in essence he stated the these areas are virtually impermeable to water-soluble molecules. following: “On the other hand, lipid soluble molecules can penetrate the stratum “Before giving further thought on how to ensure penetration of corneum and the cell wall easier because lipids have a greater chance antioxidants and vitamins into skin, one has to first ensure that the to diffuse through them. The reason for this is the structure of the vitamins and antioxidants are still stable and active in the serum. The stratum corneum, which is only 0.01-0.02 mm thick! reason for this is that antioxidants and many vitamins are active chemicals that react with other chemicals. A good example is vitamin “The stratum corneum, which is the real protective barrier of the skin, C that is commonly used in cosmetic products. Ascorbic acid in consists of dead flat cells filled with keratin (corneocytes) that are solution is extremely reactive to oxygen, light, heat and metals, so it surrounded by lipid bilayers. These lipid bilayers are arranged in should be kept in airless dispensers, which block out light double molecular layers with outer lipid-soluble and inner water(particularly Blue Light), and in order to stabilise it, it should be kept soluble components arranged in a mirror image fashion. This structure at as low a pH as feasible. forms the granules seen on the periphery of the granulocytes and then gets extruded into the intercellular space. “During the manufacturing process all antioxidants should ideally be protected from air with a “nitrogen blanket” and should be made under These lamellar bodies fill the intercellular space and their highly red light to keep the vitamins as safe as possible. Vitamins A and B12 organized lipid bi-layers are responsible for the impervious nature of
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APJ 15
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Margi Fox Distributors’ Staff with Dr Des Fernandes the stratum corneum. The lipophilic layers make the stratum corneum resistant to virtually all water-based molecules. This is the watershed area where external water is kept out and internal water is kept in. Everything deeper than the stratum granulosum is mainly waterbased.”
“Newer formulations concentrate on adapting the lipid bilayers. Sodium Laurylethylsulphate (SLES) destabilises the lipid bilayers quite significantly and chronic use can make the stratum corneum far too permeable and not retain epidermal water and the skin becomes very dry.
THE ABSORPTION FACTOR
“The next difficulty is getting active vitamins through the cell membrane itself, which is pretty impermeable. The cell wall has numerous specific receptor areas on it that allow the passage of vitamins and some antioxidants into the cell. The strange fact is that there seems to be no receptor for vitamin C. Most cells transport vitamin C solely in its oxidised form, dehydroascorbic acid, through facilitative glucose transporters.
“Now let's look at the factors that affect absorption. There are many factors that can affect the rate and extent of absorption of a topically applied vitamin or antioxidant. There are a number of paradoxical situations:
1. The solubility of the drug: Because the horny layer is a lipophilic layer, oil based products will pass through easier than water based products. However, the deeper tissue will absorb active ingredients in an aqueous solution, more rapidly than a drug that is dissolved in an oily solution. So the drug needs to be water-soluble and fat-soluble at the same time for optimal absorption.
2. Ionisation: In addition a drug that can be ionised will pass through a membrane better in the un-ionised form. This means that weak acids will cross better at a low pH. However, the ionised form of a drug is more soluble, and a drug must be in solution to be absorbed!
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“From what I have described so far it is easy to see that the formulation of creams that are intended to penetrate is vastly different from formulae used for standard cosmetics. Most cosmetic companies are not interested in getting penetration of their products. A great deal of marketing has concentrated on liposomes that theoretically offer a solution to the dilemma posed above. The classical liposome is a sphere with a lipid-soluble outer wall that is filled by the less soluble active ingredient that is released once the liposome has passed the stratum corneum. The problem is that the liposome may be so fragile that it releases its contents on the surface of the stratum corneum. On the other hand, if the liposome is more stable it may not release its contents after it has passed the stratum granulosum.
“One can also speculate that vitamin C might be preferentially kept in the intercellular space where it has a vital role in recycling vitamin E, which is the most important antioxidant for protecting cellular membranes. “Penetration into skin is fraught with difficulties, which is why very often only tiny fractions of what is applied actually gets to the keratinocytes. However, there are a number of ways to enhance penetration and ensure that the applied vitamins do get to the target cells. Specifically we promote two methods. These are iontophoresis and low-frequency sonophoresis, as well as skin needling. “One can expect up to four times better penetration by using scientific iontophoresis provided that the molecule is water-soluble and can be ionised at a physiological pH. If one uses the incorrect polarity or a badly formulated gel then this may not work so efficiently. “With skin needling the objective is to temporarily puncture the stratum corneum by using fine metal needles that penetrate the epidermis less than 0.1 mm and are consequently virtually painless. Needling allows safe, affordable treatment of the stratum corneum because the needle holes are temporary. Once a molecule has passed
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APJ 16
through the stratum corneum then most of the obstruction to penetration has been removed.
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“Enhanced penetration like this may mean that antioxidants and vitamins may even be absorbed into the bloodstream, provided that transport systems exist for them to be taken into the bloodstream. A notable exception to this is vitamin A, which seems relatively trapped in the skin and only free retinol may be absorbed in small amounts into the bloodstream. Retinol has to join on to retinol binding proteins and the enzymatic process for doing that is in the liver and not in the skin. Micro-skin needling is an excellent method to ensure adequate penetration of all vitamins and antioxidants. However, one should be aware that applied topical ascorbic acid would sting intensely after the skin has been needled.”
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IONZYME GOLD ROLL-CIT TM We also asked Dr Fernandes to talk to us about his new IONZYME GOLD ROLL-CITTM and what is uniquely different about it. “In looking at ways of providing a safe and effective tool for improving cosmetic product penetration we produced a new tool that offers greater benefits. The Ionzyme Gold Roll-CIT has 260 fine definitive points, ensuring its superiority in product penetration without the necessity for extra needle depth, which can cause bleeding as well as pain and discomfort when used. This is now the most effective Cosmetic Roll-CIT in the range. In fact, it is so comfortable that we are often asked how it can still be effective, but our before and after photos clearly demonstrate the great results that can be achieved despite its needle-depth. However, its success is attributed to its needle density rather than depth, as the 260 fine needles are more capable of achieving great results in product penetration and therefore improved skincare efficacy. Furthermore, the gold-plated metal roller is durable and easy to clean and of its own accord discourages bacteria settling on the gold metal. This new tool has been scientifically designed to give more effective, efficient and faster results in improving the appearance of fine lines, tightening the skin, improving texture and improving the appearance of uneven skin tone.”
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safely punctures the horny layer of the epidermis with micro-needles that allow the vitamins to penetrate deep into the skin at higher concentrations. The increase in penetration for this tool has been measured to be as much as 10,000 times better than simple topical application. Because high levels of vitamins A and C penetrate into the skin, more collagen is produced naturally (natural collagenesis). The principle is applicable to both the Cosmetic and the Medical Roll CIT, the difference being that the cosmetic can be safely used in the salon and at home, while the medical is used as a medical procedure. The day ended with stimulating debate among salon owners over cocktails and mocktails and the opportunity for therapists to be included in a photo shot with Dr Fernandes, who was also inundated with further enquiries and discussions from eager delegates that continued for the rest of the afternoon in both locations. In essence, what was demonstrated at these sessions is that excellence in skincare results is achieved through a perfect blend of products that are backed by scientific evidence and stringent quality-control measures, and delivered through effective treatment protocols that are carefully designed to ensure substantiated and progressive skin improvements that are both safe and efficacious to the individual.
For further information contact MargiFox Distributors Ph: 1300 850 008 or email enquiries@margifox.com.au
We also spoke at length with Dr Fernandes about the deeper needles and their effect on collagen-induction therapy. Dr Fernandes is a strong advocate of CIT at both levels and later gave us photographic evidence through his power point presentation of the kind of outcomes that the various levels of skin-needling devices can provide. However, when questioned he agreed that if the device is deep enough to cause bleeding it requires more in-depth training and more stringent safety consideration. In his opinion this level of skin needling should be medically supervised.
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While there are now several skin-needling devices on the market Environ's Cosmetic and Medical Roll-CIT were a world first and in 2002 Environ was the proud recipient of the Marie Claire Prix d'Excellence “Overall Winner”. They were awarded this accolade specifically for the Cosmetic Roll-CIT. In principle, this instrument
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APJ 17
HIGH-END TECHNOLOGY
Champagne taste on a beer budget
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In these days when costs are foremost in your mind and high-end results are paramount to your success, the decision to purchase the latest technology can present a very challenging issue. ACCURA is the new generation and sophisticated device from SORISA that steps up to the challenge with ease. Not compromising on performance, it offers a very enticing advantage over other electro-aesthetic equipment. Its competitive advantage gives every busy salon the access to the latest in innovation and results, is perfectly suited to the smallest budget and offers a multiplatform protocol. Sole operators or larger salons will welcome its sleek, compact and adaptable design and its easy manoeuverability from room to room, without the bulk of a larger, heavier machine. In addition, the ACCURA features multiple programs to address various face and body requirements and supporting skincare to address antiwrinkle, anti-pigment, hydration and oilier skin concerns. ACCURA's multiple technologies offer a much greater value and premium results so every salon and spa has the opportunity to expand and revolutionise their menu, delivering a more advanced service. ACCURA can add the finishing touch to existing treatments or use one of the preset programs to meet the demands of a client's skin.
ACCURA FEATURES THE FOLLOWING MODALITIES: HIGH FREQUENCY – Direct and Indirect electrodes
Direct High Frequency is the ideal treatment post-epilation, for oily or acne skin, post-manual extraction, hair treatments and irritated skin. When using the electrode containing a vacuum with violet colour it will achieve an antiseptic and disinfectant effect on the skin. Use the Accura HF electrode containing the orange neon gas with orange colour to soothe and calm the skin.
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THERMAL High Frequency With Thermotherapy, the higher the body temperature the greater the movement of its molecules, resulting in circulation activation, a speed-up of chemical reactions in the body, reabsorption of fluids and elimination of waste products, muscle relaxation, anti-inflammatory and analgesic effects, skin hydration and further preparation of the skin for the application of additional treatment modality – particularly for anti-ageing purposes.
APJ 18
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MICROCURRENT – Lifting Specialised Lifting Probes provide an innovative way to lift and rejuvenate the skin and the contour of the face. The convenient and hygienic disposable tips work on a product dosage release system that saves time as there are no pauses between movements. The Microcurrent Lifting rejuvenates the skin by acting on the cells to increase fibroblast activity and lymphatic drainage and improving cell permeability and myofibril tone. Accura also has accessories for the body – to tone breasts and buttocks.
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ELECTROPORATION Applying the synergy of electroporation and gel masks will substantially increase the level of penetration of skin actives into the skin, creating a significant and noticeable improvement of the skin from the very first application. This phase is administered using a gel mask conductor connected to four electrodes and allows the therapist to choose from one of the following five Gel Masks:
FACIAL FIRMING (LiftCare Mask) Active substance: Elastin – a structural protein of the extracellular matrix.
ANTI-WRINKLE (WrinkleCare Mask) Active substance: Argireline – neuromuscular inhibitor
ANTI-PIGMENT (LightCare Mask) Active substances: Arbutin, Vitamin A, Vitamin C, Glycolic acid – melanin inhibitor, antioxidant and skin regenerator
HYDRATION (HydroCare Mask) Active substance: Hyaluronic acid – moisture retaining improving structural function
OILY SKIN BALANCE (BlueCare Mask) Oleander and Niacinamide – antiinflammatory and bactericide ENSURE YOUR SALON OR SPA STANDS OUT FROM THE REST WITH OUR EXCLUSIVE APAN OFFER: Call Vogue Image Group to purchase or rent the groundbreaking ACCURA and you will receive: ! FREE your professional SORISA products and ! FREE homecare products so your client can maintain his or her results between treatments. Call us on 1 800 554 545, (03) 9821 0033 or email info@vogueimage.com.au for your ACCURA information pack. Mention this special APAN offer. This offer is valid until stocks last. Vogue Image Group can also discuss hassle-free, cost-effective rental or purchase options for you. Don't delay.
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Ancient Wisdom newly discovered
The Synergistic Action of Herbs in Skin Resurfacing
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arliest references to botanical actives go back to ancient Egypt. A papyrus dating to the 16th century BCE documents around 700 ingredients that were in common use. Around 400BCE, knowledge from this and other highly developed cultures was collated into a document called ‘Corpus hippocraticum’. This early medical reference was names after Hippokrates, a famous Greek healer. Even to this day members of the medical profession take the Hippocratic oath, swearing to practice medicine ethically and honestly. The first detailed European text on herbalism was written by the Greek doctor Pedanios Diskurides who practiced in Rome in the first century CE. His detailed description of around 600 herbs influenced the development of European medicine until the 18th century. Another influential Greek doctor, Claudius Galenus of Pergamon, was the personal physician to the Roman Emperor Marc Aurel. He was the first person to develop exact rules for the preparation of medicines. His principles of Galenic Formulation are still in use today.
Fall of an Empire With the fall of the Roman Empire much of the ancient knowledge was lost. We are fortunate that Benedict of Nursia founded a monastery on Monte Cassino in Southern Italy around 530 CE. Here he established the foundations which, between the 7th and 13th centuries CE, saw medical care in Europe transferred into the hands of monasteries and their monks and nuns. This work focussed predominantly on herbalism, the so-called phyto-therapy. Texts were copied by hand in a laborious, time-consuming effort and are preserved in libraries, universities, monasteries and museums.
The Rise of Modern Medicine From 1800CE we saw the rise of modern medicine and the development of pharmacy. This development pushed awareness of herbalism and phyto-therapy into the background. Still, around 30% of modern drugs are derived from plants and research into the actions of plants and their actives is continuing. Claims from the ancient texts are being examined using the rigorous sciences of botany, chemistry, biochemistry, pharmacology, toxicology and medicine. Often these claims are verified and explained, using the scientific method. In that context, an entry in the ‘Lorscher Arzneibuch’ (dating back to 795 CE) about a formulation containing the herb ‘valerian’ caused a sensation. It accurately described its benefits which were confirmed both through empirical observation and scientific research.
“...single particles of plants often sacrifice the holistic benefit found in complete herbs. The complete herb is better than an isolated chemical.” Scientific research into the actions and benefits of botanicals is proceeding around the world. Often this is done with a view to obtaining an extract or discovering a molecule that is beneficial and can be marketed as a pharmaceutical. This extraction of single particles of plants often sacrifices the holistic benefits found in complete herbs. Scientists are finding mounting evidence that the interaction of constituents within a single herb as well as between different herbs in a formulation have a synergistic effect that cannot be replicated by extraction and isolation of a single active ingredient. The complete herb is better than an isolated chemical.
A Compound is Developed It is against this the background that the Herbal Aktiv Peel® by Alex Cosmetic in Germany was developed. A compound of dried crushed herbs was first used in 1959 and has since been refined and perfected. It does not contain synthetic acids or abrasives. The synergistic action of these herbs has been described in the previous issue of this magazine (see ‘The Evidence for the Herbs in Herbal Aktiv Peel®, APJ vol.13, 2012, p.76). This botanical method of skin resurfacing has helped to visibly improve the appearance of many disturbing skin conditions, as is illustrated in the photographs below. For more information on the benefits of Herbal Aktiv Peel® or to obtain a copy of the article The Evidence for Herbs in Herbal Aktiv Peel® visit herbalpeel.com.au or contact 1300 301 007.
Outcomes Achieved Following Herbal Aktiv Peel®
Ingrown Hairs - three treatments
Acne scarring - five treatments
Uneven/Impure Skin - one treatment
Freckles/Sun Damage - three treatments
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In the midst of winter, I finally learned that there was in me an invincible summer. Albert Camus (1913-1960)
New Trends that just got BETTER By Tina Viney
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Each year APAN is committed to hosting an education program, particularly in regional areas where businesses often don't have the opportunity to attend such events as readily as those in capital cities. While suppliers and distributors often host great training programs their information understandably is confined to supporting the findings of the products they represent. These training sessions are definitely essential for any business undertaking their products, however, equally important is the necessity for you as a professional to step back and sit under lectures that are purely objective, educational and offer a generic perspective. The benefit of gaining such information is that they will support your professional development and sharpen your awareness on what other studies and research are saying. Armed with this knowledge you will be better able to confidently benchmark what commercial companies are telling you and make informed decisions based also on objective facts. Both perspectives have their place, and gaining a balanced perspective between commercial information that can be further validated through generic information will strengthen your decision-making process and allow you as a professional to make better choices.
At every one of these events I always present the very latest findings on global industry trends as well as financial forecasts. Even if these events are as little as six months apart, I always ensure that what I present is the very latest findings. In August at the APAN Sydney New Horizons Conference I presented a lecture on the topic “New trends that just got better”. As many requested a copy of my lecture I promised them that I would include a brief outline in the next issue of APJ, so here in essence is what I presented. Trends are very important indicators of the drivers that determine consumer spending and therefore any serious business needs to carefully consider them. However, history is one of the most important lenses that points to what elements affect success regardless as to what is happening in the current economic environment.
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APJ 22
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Today we will look at a brief overview on the latest financial predictions as well as the very latest in global industry trends. But those alone will not guarantee your success. I also want us to look at other strategies and governing factors that will allow you to create your own trends and help you hold on to your dreams and shape your destiny.
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Specifically, I want us to look at three key tools that can help you transition though any economic environment and these interestingly enough have their origins in Greek rhetoric. The ancient Greeks were very skilled in the art of persuasion and they achieved this through carefully arranging their arguments in such a way that they were able to persuade their audience to take ownership of the information they presented as credible and relevant. In fiercely competitive markets these three key rhetorical principles still hold true in the art of persuasion even today. These are known as Kairos, Ethos and Pathos. Timeless in their appeal, they offer amazing power in allowing you to overcome common obstacles and deliver effective and resourceful communication to your clients that will yield positive engagement with them and ultimately successful business transactions. But first let's take a look at the financial forecasts for Australia over the next 12 months.
What they pointed out is that Australia has never plunged in negative growth since 1960, and despite the current economic challenges the state of real living standards has not declined. This was statistically demonstrated. They stated that in 2013 we will be entering a new economic cycle. Their presentation indicated that the economic forecast figures are looking optimistic and they are predicting that the total capital expenditure (that is expenditure towards improving our standard of living) will actually grow by 28.9% from 2013. In their report they clearly demonstrated that Australia has sufficient resources and is well poised to weather any future hardships and move towards recovery.
IBISWorld is one of the most credible global researchers. They are Australia's richest source of business information. They provide independent, accurate, comprehensive, and up-to-date research on over 500 industries, including statistics, analysis and forecasts. They also have reports on Australia's top 2000 companies and provide valuable information to help organisations and businesses make better business decisions. IBISWORLD recently presented a very interesting webinar entitled “Key Economic Indicators and Industry Trends”.
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IN SUMMARY THEIR RECOMMENDATIONS WERE:
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On a daily basis I am personally involved for over three hours each day on researching the latest global and economic trends, crossreferencing predictions for further validation. One research company that is high on my preferential lists is IBISWORLD because of their incredible reputation for accuracy.
WHO IS IBISWORLD?
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Businesses need to take a closer look at technological changes to ensure they understand how they are dramatically altering the way people now interact with them and how businesses operate. As the “labour” component can be one of the most expensive aspects of running a business, efficient technology can also substantially improve efficiency and accuracy and often does this in a more cost-effective way. Technology has fundamentally altered trading business models. Don't take your progress for granted. Businesses that have experienced success in the past and are now resting on their laurels may find that what worked before may no longer bring the same results. For this reason businesses need to be vigilant to test, measure, review and assess what is no longer working and replace it with what is working. Consider new and more effective methodologies that will now work for you. Businesses that were once considered indispensable have paid the price of complacency. Being proactive is critical to survival. Plan now for the future. As changes in the way businesses are conducted alter, it is important that you are proactive and plan ahead for your future growth. Also test to determine if what you think will work before implementing it, as the cost of getting it wrong may be detrimental. Be conscious of a rapidly changing client market as this is also happening! Are you in touch with those changes? Gather as much information on research that will help you to be better prepared with the right choices for tomorrow. Stay close to statistics on client trends as they may be very different to what
This was an hour-long presentation covering numerous countries and industries. While much of the information presented was interesting it was not necessarily relevant to our industry. I don't want to bore you with an economics lecture on what I learnt, suffice to say that I will present to you the most relevant conclusions. 㤵 㜵
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According to IBISWORLD the latest figures are indicating that the world is moving towards financial recovery. Australia is on the precipice of this recovery that should start to unfold from 2013, with China and India leading and Australia somewhere in the middle of the recovery scale.
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APJ 23 67
Skincare Trends” was most enlightening.
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This was a full-day event with several speakers presenting their research findings on global trends and what we can expect on new product formulations.
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IN ESSENCE THESE WERE SOME OF THE CONCLUSIONS I TOOK FROM THIS EVENT:
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While the cosmetic industry did experience some slowing down all indications are that it is on the rebound again and is currently experiencing high growth potential. This is due to the huge growth in product innovation. As economies have tightened spending, companies are seeing the need to entice consumers into continuing to view skincare as an essential commodity rather than a luxury. Competition among formulators is fierce and as a result there is a real boom in product innovations and advanced technologies that are pushing results and vying for the best position to be recognised as the most results-driven products. From 2013 we will see the “specialty actives” market enjoying a healthy growth rate, and we will see formulations increasing the quality and quantity of their actives, both in the professional and the retail space.
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WHAT IS DRIVING THIS MARKET AND WHAT ARE THEIR EXPECTATIONS?
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you thought they were. Conduct your own surveys within your database and with your most valuable clients, but also stay in touch with global client trends as these will allow you to prepare appropriately in line with future predictions. In terms of the personal care and beauty market IBISWORD predicted that we can expect consumer spending to increase by 1.7% from 2013.
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They also stated that because of the ageing population, spending towards wellness and healthcare will rise by 6.2%. Retail spending can expect to grow by 4.8% Professional and technical services would experience a 27.3% growth. This is also a reflection that while spending will increase, consumers are becoming more cautious, discerning and calculating and will seek expert advice on the nature of their spending. If the professionals or experts cannot offer them updated information they will seek guidance from the Internet and the online space.
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Consumers are seeking the feel-good, look-good experience in much greater numbers and particularly with an increasing ageing population. ! Consumers are being much more knowledgeable in product ingredients. They can more easily research ingredients on the Internet, through publications, social media, etc. They are becoming far more aware of what is available and they are questioning more specifics on the product's ingredients before buying. As we saw previously this trend was also reflected in the IBISWORLD report on shifts in consumer trends. Consumer expectations are constantly rising. They want visible results and if possible instant results. Sleek marketing is no longer enough, the product must be able to deliver results that meet with consumer expectations. Skincare is now rivalling for results with injectibles and technologies such as IPL, Laser, RF, Ultrasound and Microcurrents. In terms of formulations the key driver is natural, or naturally inspired, botanical actives. This sector far surpassed other categories in demand, and together with the anti-ageing category
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So what are these figures indicating? Before we decide, let's more specifically look at the skincare global predictions for 2013 and on. These were presented by Cosmetic Design and the Kline research group, who are leaders in presenting the most up-to-date statistics on the global skincare ingredients trends. The recent report “Lifting the lid on
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© 2012 Kine & Company
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will be the key market drivers in terms of consumer preferences. The research also overwhelmingly confirmed that consumers prefer ingredients they can recognise and therefore more easily trust ingredients such as known herbs, vitamins, phyto-nutrients fruits, etc. Another consumer directive is that ingredients, be they natural or synthetic, should not pose a risk to the consumer. Two areas that are attracting huge attention are animal testing, which is now banned in most countries, and the other is delivery systems, and in particular nanotechnology and trans-epidermal delivery systems. One of the questions being asked both by consumers and product regulators include, “Are the ingredients that are being delivered to the deeper layers of the skin and in higher doses pose any risk of toxicity with long-term use?” These are the kind of questions that formulators are asked to answer. Coupling Devices will also be entering the market in a much bigger way as of 2013. These will come in the form of hand-held devices designed to be used with specific skincare to enhance product penetration and to tone the skin. They will be readily available through the on-line space, sold in supermarkets, in department stores and through multi-level marketing.
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In terms of investments in new skincare product development the following statistics that were presented reflected US and Europe. While only US and European figures were made available it is my professional opinion that Australian figures would probably be best reflected as being midway between US and Europe, with possibly closer to the European predictions than to Americans. The US and European markets total will be expected to reach $600 million in new product innovations, with the botanical segment leading in both regions.
BOTANICALS – Unsubstantiated extracts, substantiated actives
US 38%
EU 43%
BIOTECHNOLOGY PRODUCTS – Hyaluronic acids in various sizes, stem cells, ceramides
16%
30%
MARINE INGREDIENTS – Substantiated algae extracts and Chitosan
8%
7%
PROTEINS AND PEPTIDES – Botanical, biological, synthetic peptides
16%
18%
ENZYMES AND CO-ENZYMES – Coenzyme Q10 and others
2%
2%
Specialty actives in personal care target a wide variety of performance benefits, although anti-ageing functionality dominates. Here is their breakdown of expected product development.
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Anti-Ageing – DNA protection, energising, anti-stress, anti-wrinkle, antioxidant, moisturising, skin firming, lifting/tensors. Anti-acne, anti-inflammatory, skin whitening/lightening, slimming and anticellulite, sun protection and haircare. Here are the percentages. US EU Anti-Ageing 56% 66% Anti-Acne 5% 4% Anti-inflammatory 10% 12% Skin whitening 6% 2% Slimming 3% 3% Sun protection 4% 4% Haircare 16% 9%
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Haircare has experienced a huge shift towards more natural ingredients, with predominance in botanicals and natural fragrances
instead of artificial fragrances. We will also see haircare entering the anti-ageing arena, with products supporting healthier-looking hair as well as those that will stimulate hair growth for both men and women. The financial figures indicate that personal care products that also address wellness and anti-ageing are going to be the market leaders. People are interested in the virtues of healthy longevity. Products that can benefit the body while making it look more youthful will be the definite winners.
Cosmetic figures definitely point to a rise in botanical and biotechnology formulations as being on the rise, while anti-ageing will certainly be the market drivers.
HOW WILL YOU SECURE YOUR POSITION IN THIS MARKET BOOM? However, this boom is not going to be confined to the professional market. There will be huge companies like L'Oreal and Procter and Gamble (Olay) who will target Internet and supermarket products as well as department stores. So how are you going to stand out from the crowd with your products? First, you will need to be able to demonstrate to the consumer that the level of your knowledge is substantially higher than information presented in pharmacies and department stores or for that matter online. You information must be backed scientifically and must reflect credible education on skin science and your ability to understand the skin's structure and function at a more advanced level, while also being able to articulate how new ingredients and technology can best
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APJ 25
to take it. Are we going to sit back and let the department stores take our market share, or are we going to lift our game and be known as the trust professionals that we should be known to be?
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While we may currently be experiencing contingencies, we are also faced with opportunities. We cannot afford to get so attached to a past idea that worked, but no longer has sufficient relevancy. Be flexible and siege the moment – the Kairos moment. So we have identified the Kairotic quality of the moment, but how to we deliver our information?
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ETHOS This is where ETHOS comes in. Ethos relates to your values and the ethics of your core ideas, beliefs and the information you present. In terms of your product, it requires that you sell it on the basis of its integrity and its scientific validation and this is presented in a more relevant way. In other words, it is presented in a way that the other party can connect, understand and trust that the product is right for them.
PATHOS However, at this point is when Pathos can make all the difference. While Ethos presents the credibility of an argument, Pathos's effective qualities have to do with the “heart” of the argument, or the passion and emotional appeal that creates a sense of urgency. As they say, enthusiasm is contagious. However, while people respond and connect to a combination of Ethos and Pathos they must first be persuaded through Ethos (trust) before they can respond to the Pathos.
solve your client's skincare problems in a very individual and targeted way. Second, your method of communication must shift from the “sales focused” bragging about a product to the more persuasive approach using skills and tools such as Kairos, Ethos and Pathos, which I mentioned earlier. Let me explain.
KAIROS
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Kairos refers to presenting the right thing in the right timing and in the right way. Timing of when and how you present information is a critical factor if you wish to achieve business success. For example, if you have taken the time to thoroughly and professionally analyse your client's skin and presented to him or her their results and any deficiencies you have identified, this will be the most appropriate time to put forward specifics of how the issues can be resolved. If you wait until their next visit you would have lost the momentum of the moment and most likely lost the opportunity to persuade them to make a decision to take on your recommendations. Kairos is about grasping the opportunity without loosing your values. It is now proven that without the Kairos factor in action businesses can go broke. We are currently experiencing a Kairos moment when the anti-ageing market is ripe for the picking and we are the most qualified
There must be a balance between humility and authority. If you have too much Pathos you can overwhelm and your client can get turned off. This is very much the traditional, in-your-face sales pitch, which delivers a whole lot of enthusiasm and hype, but very little real substance and sufficient credible information about why the client should buy that product. It is that aspect of sales why most therapists hate selling. The good news is that this method doesn't work anymore. If you can mix Ethos and Pathos in the right order your audience will respect you and what you present will be compelling and persuasive without needing to be pushy. Your client will more easily make a decision based on the credibility of facts mixed with the right sense of timing and spiced with a little excitement and enthusiasm, and of course the right question at the end.
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© 2012 Kine & Company
APJ 26
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Let me give you an example of the old and the new. You have just finished a skin analysis and given your client a facial and now you are ready to put f o r w a r d y o u r recommendations. Let's look at two approaches: “Mary, as part of your homecare routine I would like to suggest that you use our new moisturiser that has been recently launched by XYZ brand. This is a great product that has loads of hyaluronic acid and the latest peptides that are good for plumping out the skin so, I would like you to consider buying it.”
LET'S TAKE A CLOSER LOOK AT THIS?
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No Empty Promises
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1. Who is the star, the JYUNKA AUSTRALIA Phone 03 9821 0355 email: enquiry@jyunka.com.au, www.jyunka.com.au product or the client? (It is definitely the product.) 2. Can a multi-level marketing person or department-store person 2. Can a multi-level marketing person or department store person outperform you? (I would think so). outperform you? (I don't think so. Also you are not making sales 3. If you were the client would you be convinced that this was your suggestions but professional recommendations.) best choice? (Not really). 3. If you were the client would you be convinced that this was your 4. Has it passed the Ethos test? (Again, not really). best choice? (The focus is totally on solving the problem and not in trying to push a sales item at the client. As a client I would feel that your intentions were genuine and your recommendations credible NOW LET'S LOOK AT THE NEW APPROACH: in solving my problem). “Mary, having carefully analysed your skin I see that you have great 4. Has it passed the Ethos test? (Absolutely). texture, but on closer examination I have identified underlying dehydration. Left uncorrected this can lead to premature skin ageing and looseness in your skin. “However, with immediate treatment we can prevent this. In my professional opinion a series of facial treatments with our Brand X Microcurrent technology specifically designed to boost hydration levels and lift and tone your skin will reverse this problem. Also your homecare products will work so much better if your skin cells are energised by the treatments first as we will be targeting the problem at its root.
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The Kairos principle is applied in the statements “with immediate treatment we can prevent this”. The Ethos principle is used in presenting both skin analysis results and the recommendations, while Pathos is presented through a potential partnership with the client that can lead to “some amazing results and even possibly make the client look up to 10 years younger.” This approach is more persuasive and is more likely to engage the client rather than a pushy, sales-pitch approach.
“My professional recommendation is that we start you on (Product X), which has hyaluronic acid at the right molecular weight for your present skin's needs. It also has special peptide X, which will support your skin's collagen and improve firmness and tone.
SO IN CLOSING I ENCOURAGE YOU TO:
“The facial treatments will correct the problem and will further optimise your skin's response to the home products.
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“I really believe that together we can achieve some amazing antiageing results and stop any premature ageing, while possibly making you look up to 10 years younger.
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“Would you like me to put together a carefully designed value-added package so that we can get started? How does that sound?” Now let's pass this through the same test as the method about and see if it passes the Kairos, Ethos and Pathos test. 1. Who is the star the product or the client? (It is definitely the client).
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Identify what research is telling you and select the right products and technologies that will meet with client demand and expectations Know your products and services well and invest in your knowledge and professional status through on-going education and information Consider appropriate timing and seize the moment to advance your position Present what you advocate for the benefit of your clients with clarity, credibility and passion.
Challenges are there to help us overcome them and become stronger. I trust that this article has given you some insight and valuable information on how to best prepare for your own business boom ahead.
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APJ 27
salonbusiness
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Stating it as it is By Gay Wardle The aesthetics industry is experiencing an evolution and one person who is right in the centre of it all is Gay Wardle. Gay knows no limits when it comes to expanding her knowledge, while travelling across Australia and New Zealand delivering training in Advanced Skin Analysis and the effective use of light-based technologies. Her passion about her work is a driving force that has allowed her to achieve several industry awards for her achievements, and gain the love of those she shares her knowledge with and the respect of her peers in medical societies. She is the perfect role model and example of what love when mixed with dedication can achieve.
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In this candid interview Gay shares with us her observations on both the industry's successes and its shortfalls. We trust that her enthusiasm will be infectious and her wealth of knowledge will allow you to take on board some home truths on how achievement can be more a matter of planning and wise decisions and less about economies of scale and governments.
APJ1: Gay, from your travels how do you view the current state of the beauty and aesthetics industry? Gay: As I gain a bird's-eye view of the industry across Australia I have to say that I can clearly see a segregation happening between beauty that is focusing on basic services and maintenance and those that are working more towards skin correction and serious skin management.
With more stringent economic times many salons that are struggling with high rents have closed their doors and are working from home, simplifying their procedures and offering just the basics to their clients. I therefore have noticed that the number of salons predominantly providing grooming services are definitely getting higher. Meanwhile, on the other hand, we are seeing a progressive increase of doctors and nurses moving into the aesthetics and anti-ageing arena and this is also contributing to changing the identity of the profession. The introduction of higher learning with Advanced Diplomas and Degree programs such as the Bachelor of Dermal Therapies at Victoria University also means that we are getting qualified graduates whose aim is to specialise in skin treatments and anti-ageing, while leaving the grooming services to others. I therefore believe that we will slowly see the one-stop shop where a salon provides all the services start to diminish and be replaced with specialist businesses. Progressively, we will be seeing more waxing bars, eyebrow bars, nail bars, spray tanning specialists, etc on the one hand, while on the other hand, more advanced skin-management centres and clinics.
APJ2: What is the most common thread that you are finding in salons that are failing? Gay: There are three areas that I believe are the recurring contributing factors to business failure. First, I would have to say that I am seeing a direct correlation between poor, or lack of, education and failing businesses. In this industry there seems to be a misunderstanding as to what is education, as it is often confused with product training. While
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APJ 28
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this has its place, unless businesses invest in improving their knowledge-base as well as their business and leadership skills they will not survive. On the other hand, those who are first to invest in quality generic conferences and education seem to be pulling through. I am amazed as I see salons attend one training session a year with their supplier and nothing else and then wonder why they can't seem to make it in their business.
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The second area is the neglect in building staff culture. Individuals do not become a team by accident, they need to be nurtured and trained to think as a unit working individually with common values towards common goals. This takes training, which must be conducted on a regular basis.
The third area of neglect is the lack of branding in businesses. When you open your doors what kind of client are you hoping to attract and how do you want to be perceived as an expert? What is your point of difference? I recently asked that question of a salon and they said “our brand is about solving serious skin conditions”, however, when walking through their door the message I got was confusing. Everywhere there were pampering products on display and there was no evidence that something more serious was happening in the cubicles.
APJ3: From your experience can you name four key strategies that successful salons are implementing that help them survive? Gay: There is no doubt that all successful salons love attending educational programs and invest in them on a regular basis. This not only helps them gain new perspectives and gain greater confidence, they also are energised and become more motivated, while also helping them ignite new ideas on how they can implement what they have learnt. This kind of energy often spills over to their staff, equipping them also with enthusiasm and new knowledge.
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The best key element in staff development is to ensure that all your staff are confident in the services you provide, but another important issue is to also encourage them to excel in the area they have the most passion for. I am a firm believer in specialisation, and this is so easy to develop when someone has a passion in a particular area. Salons that identify such strengths in their staff and encourage them to grow their skills and knowledge in those areas reap the benefits by developing exceptional expert services. Furthermore, the staff will feel appreciated and enjoy being given the opportunity to be the very best in the area they love the most.
Last but not least, a business must have a serious marketing plan that runs for a 12-month period and must start preparing and putting the plan to action if they are to achieve their goals.
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APJ4: How does a skin analysis at the beginning of a client's program contributes to better results and business growth?
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APJ 29
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Gay: If you want to be trusted and recognised as a skin expert you need to make sure your skin-analysis skills are up to date. In beauty therapy training skin types and conditions are what students are taught in skin analysis. However, with advanced results you need to also be able to identify the deterioration of the cells, what caused the changes in the skin and how to correct it. This takes more advanced knowledge and when conducted correctly will yield better treatment results and greater business growth. It is my firm belief that tools like a skin-analysis machine should only be used as a support tool after you have conducted a skin-analysis procedure. Machines can be computerised and are limited in what they can gauge. However, only your human skill and knowledge will determine what is happening on a cellular level on and within the skin both in the dermis and the epidermis. By relying just on a machine to analyse the skin is inadequate, you need a professional eye to conduct a thorough evaluation. It is like saying that I will just run a spellcheck over my article on my computer, this will guarantee that my writing will be accurate. There are certain grammatical issues that spellcheck will not pick up so you still need to know your grammar and how to spell and just use spellcheck as a backup tool. It is the same with skin analysis.
APJ5: How often should a skin analysis be conducted and why? Gay: A comprehensive skin analysis should be conducted as the first paid treatment your client receives. This should take approximately one hour and will involve a complete assessment of your client's analysis chart with your client. We usually ask our clients to come with a clean skin on their first visit. If they don't we cleanse their skin and allow it to settle for at least 20 minutes before assessing the face so that the natural secretions are allowed to manifest. Meanwhile, we go through the client's chart with them and ask several questions. Furthermore, we don't just check the face, even if we are going to work just on the face. We examine the whole body, hands and feet and observe vascular activity, blood supply and lymphatic flow as well as evidence of bruising, lesions, scarring, pigmentation and in general skin colour and texture, etc. This will allow us to determine the client’s capacity to heal. We also compare chronological and cellular ageing of the skin to determine the body's immunity and other considerations relevant to that individual and the services we will be providing them with. After the initial consultation we still conduct a skin analysis at the beginning of each treatment. This now usually only takes 5-10 minutes and if the client is having a series of treatment we do a more comprehensive 20-minute skin analysis on the 7th treatment. We do this to determine how the cells are changing and to appropriately assess the progress and skin improvement. At the end of the course of treatment we do a thorough 20-to-30minutes final skin evaluation.
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APJ6: From your experience with salons what is the primary reason why salons are having trouble with staff reaching their sales targets? Gay: Salons whose staff fail to reach their sales targets are usually because they fail to provide them with adequate training. Staff need regular training on a weekly basis if they are to develop confidence in their ability to effectively promote the business's products and services. On average a staff member is expected to generate sufficient business at the rate of $100-$120 per hour, however, they cannot do this if the
business is constantly discounting their services to the point where reaching targets is almost impossible because of the heavily discounted prices. Specials should be only once or twice a year and not in every newsletter, otherwise you are virtually running your business on sale prices, and this is a risky strategy. However, this is another reason why staff members fail to reach their sales targets and why many business are busy but running at a loss.
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APJ7: What exciting new trends are you seeing that you believe is helping change the industry for the better that you would like therapists to consider? Gay: I believe the most exciting trend that is contributing to lifting the
reputation of the industry and offering hope for the future is the quality educational programs that we are seeing being staged by organisations such as APAN. These conferences deliver high-quality information and allow for some excellent networking opportunities allowing businesses and professionals to take a break from their routine activities and gain a more global perspective of important changes in the industry and things to come. APAN is also involved with medical societies and advocates programs that are staged within these events specifically for the aesthetic therapist to support their professional development and expose them to higher educational platforms that foster mutual respect and recognition, while helping to build robust relationships between practitioners of various disciplines with aesthetic therapists. These are very niche educational events that are about quality and cutting-edge information. The recent Australasian and Aesthetic Workshop with A5M is and example. I am amazed when I hear people say I attend the Sydney International Spa and Beauty Expo and consider this their only form of “education”. APAN is trail blazing a new trend in regional conferences that are niche, but quality and allow for a new level of awareness and professional development. I believe this trend will continue to grow and will contribute to fostering positive changes for our industry.
APJ8: Why did you undertake a degree qualification in Dermal Therapies and how has this affected you in your professional life? Gay: Initially I decided to further my education because as a teacher I felt it was appropriate that I practise what I preach. However, I believe that this exercise has been most rewarding. It has opened up to me a new level of acceptance with plastic surgeons and the medical profession and has given me great confidence, not only with my professional interaction with healthcare professionals, but has also greatly enhanced my ability to formulate and deliver better treatments through my salon. Tertiary-level education has enhanced my ability to critically analyse my procedures until I get better answers. It has expanded my possibility thinking and given me the tools to explore and research my practices to a higher level through the new level of knowledge that I have gained.
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Gay Wardle can be contacted on 0418 708 455 Masters Dermal Academy
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APJ 30
Advance your knowledge and education to a higher level. MDA is now offering Post-Graduate courses to empower you for greater treatment results and business growth. With the advances in new equipment and skincare technology, heightened awareness by consumers and the collaboration between professional aesthetics and medical and anti-ageing practices there is now the need for education and specialised Post-Graduate training to support and deliver higher levels of expertise and advanced results. Gay Wardle has launched a new training MASTERCLASS PROGRAM in 2011 to equip and empower you to make the transition with greater confidence into the realm of advanced treatment protocols for greater treatment outcomes. Gay Wardle is without question today's leading and most influential educator in Australia. Winner of over 12 industry and business awards, she has a strong understanding of the aesthetics industry and the elements that are necessary for a successful salon or aesthetic practice. Constantly investing in her own education and knowledge, she is not only passionate about training but simultaneously is undertaking a Bachelor's qualification with Victoria University.
MASTERCLASSES IN DERMAL TRAINING INCLUDE: ! One-day Insight into Skin Evaluation ! Two-day Insight into Skin Evaluation ! Three-day Journey to Understand and Empower your ! ! !
Knowledge in Advanced Skin Evaluation Skin Preparation Programs to Optimise Results from IPL, Needling and Microdermabrasion Treatments to Target Pigmentation Understanding Ageing in the Skin and Treatments for Ageing Skin
ENROL TODAY Training Available in most States. For further details and to book Visit www.masterdermalacademy.com.au email:gay@da.com.au or info@masterdermalacademy.com.au Ph: 0418 708 455 formerly Advanced Aesthetics
Masters Dermal Academy
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Customer Service at a
Whole New Business-Building Level By Caroline Nelson
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In the past few months I have been to Tokyo, Japan twice, both for personal and business reasons. And it has been an eye-opener that has awakened me to the differences in Customer Service. And while I don't think we will ever get our employees to bow both to greet and farewell our customers, we could certainly learn some lessons from the Japanese. But just what does good customer service really mean? And in particular how do we define its delivery in the beauty industry? It could be described as meaning going above and beyond the norm. It could be reading the customer so well that their needs are anticipated ahead and then provided. Or it could mean that all interactions between our customers and us at the time of the appointment, sale or the after-service delivers high value and works towards building enduring relationships. In fact it's a combination of all of this and more.
RAISING THE STANDARD OF YOUR SERVICE What we do know is that the level of customer expectation is now far and above what it was just a few short years ago. Then it was all about the feel-good experience, relaxation, the luxurious fit-out, calm music and wonderful aroma. They now want a very high-level of treatment results plus the feel-good experience. However, it needs to be delivered in a streamlined, time-effective manner. So you may need to reconsider the efficiency of what in many cases are very opulent treatment rooms and realise that apart from being where the treatments are performed, it is also where add-on sales, home-care recommendations and re-booking originate from.
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There is no doubt that keeping today's client happy will take a more focused approach and that you may need to change, improve, adapt or
APJ 32
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even lift your game. And as previously mentioned, learning the best ways to read and anticipate customer needs ahead of them even realising these needs will be a big part of keeping ahead of the game. But to do this, both you and your employees need to get over the “I don't want to be pushy” syndrome and provide more than the customer's original booking requested. Think of it this way, if you went to your doctor because you were sick with the flu and he/she noticed that you had a suspicious-looking sunspot on your arm would you expect the doctor to advise you about treatment for the flu and the sunspot, or would you just expect the doctor to advise about the flu because that was what you went to see them about? I don't think so. You would expect it to be a duty-of-care the doctor provides to keep you healthy in all areas concerning your health. So too the professional beauty therapist's duty-of-care to provide treatment and recommendation in all areas concerning the client’s skin and grooming. That is not being “pushy”, it's doing a professional job well and providing a higher level of customer service. But to link high-quality customer service to business building you need to look at your current clients and see what services they having and what more could they be having. Services and products that would deliver a better outcome of results that would deepen their loyalty to your business. You also need to know client profiles and to understand each section of your consumers’ buying habits and what presses their buttons.
WHAT BUTTONS DO YOU NEED TO PRESS?
Let's just consider age groups and just how much more we could service these groups. The Generation Y clients who account for 20.5% of the population are what could be called the “I want it now generation”. So if you found you had a large pocket of bikini and Brazilian wax clients in this group then common sense would indicate that they need to be moved or upgraded into a more permanent “I want it now” method of hair removal like IPL.
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Gen Ys are also very influenced by everything that is on-trend, new or different. So they would be the perfect clients to introduce to semipermanent eyebrow make-up kits – a great little up-sell that will allow them to create the perfect eyebrow shape like their idols, such as like Katy Perry. Then we have Generation X that comes in the 27-41 age-group. These individuals are in general career-focused. It is said that technology
fuels their lives, and while they are very comfortable with today's gadgets they also find it is hard to unplug and relax. Having said that, Gen Xs are also highly informed individuals who base decisionmaking on their assessment of quality and performance. So I ask you, are they as highly informed about all the services you offer that they could benefit from? For example, how many Gen X customers do you have who are just having a eyebrow wax when they have stress written all over their faces and yet have never had a stress-reducing massage at your establishment?
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These same Gen X clients are starting to notice and worry about the tiny lines they see each day when they look into the mirror. Are they having their facials upgraded to include an eye-booster treatment? And do they all use eye serums and eye creams? And for that matter, have they already started to notice the first signs of ageing and sun damage in the fragile neck and décolleté area? Gen Xs will also be noticing their once perfectly smooth thighs are now starting to show those tell-tail lumps and bumps of the dreaded cellulite, so introducing them to body sculpture and fat cavitation would be indicated.
And the Baby Boomers who need to look good to fit their profile of 50 being the new 40 or 60 being the new 50. These clients are constantly in need of reinventing themselves just like their peer Madonna. So they need our professional skills and expertise to stay as youthful as possible. Just how many anti-ageing services does your business offer and how many are the Boomers experiencing? They are the perfect client to upgrade to the highest-level facials; photo-rejuvenation treatments and high-performance retail products like serums. These clients also have more time and disposable income to spend on themselves, and they have well and truly bought into the "I deserve it" approach to personal care. Seniors – the 65+ aged customers still want to look good, especially as many people are now working well into their late 60s and even 70s. And the ones who have retired are more flexible in regards to appointment times. 'Pensioner discounts' may not be the way you want to operate, but what about having 'happy hour' treatments to fill in non-peak times. Their flexibility makes them the perfect client to fill up the gaps in your booking schedule. And another thing, I have always noticed with seniors is that they are regularly committed clients who are happy to book in advance and rarely cancel an appointment. This age group may not be "big spenders" but they do enjoy pampering treatments like manicures and pedicures. And as they relate best to young people they are happy to have the junior or trainee, because they don't mind if the treatment takes a little longer than it would from a more experienced therapist. As shown, these customer groups could all benefit from receiving a higher level of Customer Service offered by therapists who are not afraid to anticipate their needs and are not afraid of appearing pushy by offering what is really their primary purpose of providing the best possible skincare or grooming results for their clients. I hope this article has helped you look at your business with a new set of eyes. And don't be frightened to take your customer service to a whole new business building level – your clients will thank you for it by spending more and developing a higher level of loyalty. © Copyright Caroline Nelson 2012 Caroline Nelson is a beauty industry expert who specialises in business coaching for salons and spas. She is also the author of the Ignite Your Beauty Business For $uccess- Salon, Staff Policies Procedures & Systems manual. To learn more about her step-by-step program for salon spa success, and to sign up for her FREE e-Book, “Salon Spa Money Making Secrets”, visit www.SalonSpaBusiness.com or phone 0410 600 440.
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starperformer
SKIN O2
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MEDI MICRODERMA FUSION ㈵
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Microdermabrasion is the most popular requested beauty treatment at most med-spas at present, according to Alison Atia, Managing Director of Skin O2.
“Dr Atia's clever and hygienically sound Aussie design is taking microdermabrasion to the next level,” Alison said. The 3-in-1 Skin O2 Microderma Fusion system is extremely costeffective and offers a total all-in-one facial-rejuvenation treatment. If you sell only 1-2 treatments per week it’s paid for itself! Experience the quality of crushed diamond tips with ionic infusion for cleaner, clearer and calmer skin. See why more doctors choose Skin O2 to get better skin results and save thousands of dollars by swapping to this elite system. This system doesn't just exfoliate like the old-style microdermabrasion system it restores skin back to perfection in three easy steps. Dr Atia's feel-good anti-ageing and anti-acne facials start with an antibacterial micro-exfoliation to hygienically remove dead skin cells, while deeply cleansing and helping smooth away imperfections. This is followed by a plumping and hydrating infusion of collagen, or brightening trans-dermal solutions, combined with soothing ioninfusion therapy to revitalise the skin from inside out. With Dr Atia's Microderma Fusion Facial, your client's skin has a more radiant and healthier-looking glow that you only get with total skin rejuvenation. The new Skin O2 Medi Microderma Fusion, developed by Gold Coast Cosmetic Surgeon Dr Atia, offers not only excellent results in treatment outcomes, it also offers a very pleasurable experience. Making sure the treatment also feels fantastic will contribute to the client experience and deliver better anti-ageing results. It is a scientific fact that stress dramatically ages us, so one of the protocols to a successful anti-ageing treatment should be to de-stress and relax your client, leaving them with a feel-good experience.
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The Skin O2 Medi Microderma Fusion technology leads the way in new treatments for clients and patients, combining both skin and mind therapy for the benefit of total rejuvenation and revitalisation. This Skin O2 ion infusion treatment is the essential restorative facial for stressed or busy people.
experience if you are walking along the beach or breathing the fresh air of a forest or a waterfall. These negative ions have been encapsulated and released on the skin in a 20-minute cosmetic facial treatment. Working in a busy environment full of electromagnetic fields, or simply working in front of a computer every day depletes our negative ions as much of the technology that we are surrounded by releases positively charged ions.
The idea behind this type of ion therapy is similar to the way in which a sauna works. Temperatures inside both steam and dry saunas become very hot, thus making us perspire. Toxins are released from the body through perspiration. Ion therapy that is targeted at the body works in the same way, but instead of inducing perspiration, it pulls toxins out via an electric current. While toxins are being released, positive ions in the body are also neutralised so that they can't harm the body.
WHAT ARE THE RESULTS OF THIS TREATMENT? After sloughing off dead skin cells and encouraging a healthier cellular turnover for smoother, finer, more even toned skin, the Skin O2 Medi Microderma Fusion utilises smart technology, which targets and converts air from the pump into negative ions and emits them back out through the micro-infusion tip along with the infusion of hydrating, anti-ageing and skin-brightening serums. These negative ions help neutralise any positive ions within a certain area on the skin, creating a healthier bio-environment. They also help to neutralise or destroy many other particles such as harmful bacteria and some allergens that often cause skin problems. There are many symptoms associated with positive ion overexposure, often created from just working at our office computer, such as fatigue, headaches, allergies, and other skin or hair conditions. The Skin O2 Medi Microderma Fusion offers you the option of either crystal or diamond-tipped applications, combining ion and infusion therapy. It also features in-built internal UV sterilisation capabilities for added hygiene.
Discover why more doctors prefer Skin O2 today! For more information visit: Web www.skino2.com.au Email sales@skino2.com.au or ph: 07 5593 4488.
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WHAT ADDITIONAL EXCITING FEATURES ARE AVAILABLE FROM THE NEW SMART TECHNOLOGY?
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Dr Atia insisted in utilising and re-creating the same negative ion biochemistry that makes you feel good. This negative ion environment will offer you the same benefits that you will
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APJ 55 APJ 34
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keyingredients
for two reasons. First, all bodily processes depend upon the action and presence of minerals. Second, all nutrients such as vitamins, proteins, enzymes, amino acids, carbohydrates, fats, sugars, oils, etc. require minerals for proper cellular function. In essence vitamins cannot function unless minerals are present.
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THE POWER OF MINERALS
Minerals are needed for healing. Tissue rebuilding occurs more readily when the body has access to the necessary minerals. This is why they are so effective when absorbed through the skin. Soaking in mineralenriched water can quickly heal wounds.
According to The Doctor's Vitamin and Mineral Encyclopedia, “Mineral insufficiency and trace elements insufficiency are more likely to occur than are vitamin insufficiency states. This is due to differing geologic conditions, where minerals and trace elements may be scarce in the soils of certain regions and rich in those of other regions. Thus, you can live in some areas, eat a perfectly 'balanced' diet and still develop mineral deficiencies or trace element deficiencies that can only be averted through dietary change or supplementation."
in skin rejuvenation and human health By Tina Viney One of the most mineral-rich base materials that offers amazing health and skin benefits is Dead Sea salts. While the benefits of the Dead Sea have been known for centuries, on-going scientific research is constantly coming up with some amazing findings that continually shed light on why these minerals are so beneficial to human health and skin vitality. The Dead Sea contains 21 different minerals – 12 of those are found in no other body of water – so it has a unique composition. Another unique characteristic of the Dead Sea is its purity. Unlike the oceans that can become polluted and acidic as seen by dying coral structures, the Dead Sea is able to maintain its purity and remain unpolluted. Considered the lowest natural place on Earth, the Dead Sea has a depth ranging from 430 metres in the north to 10 metres in the south.
MINERAL COMPOSITION The Dead Sea's mineral composition differs from that of ocean water, varying with season, rainfall, depth, and temperature. In particular, the salt in most oceans is approximately 97% sodium chloride, while Dead Sea salt is only 12-18% sodium chloride. An analysis of major ion concentrations in the water of the Dead Sea gave the following results.[2]
MAJOR IONS OF DEAD SEA WATER 㤵 㜵
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Ion Concentration (mg/L) Chloride & Bromide 230,400 Magnesium 45,900 Sodium 36,600 Calcium 17,600 Potassium 7800
WHY ARE MINERALS IMPORTANT TO THE HUMAN BODY? Minerals are very important in health
BENEFITS TO THE HUMAN BODY Today, the Dead Sea has taken on a new dimension: modern science has proven the therapeutic and rejuvenating properties of its unique mineral content. The Dead Sea has become a renowned centre for natural health and beauty treatments, with people coming from around the world to bath in its mineral-rich waters. Medical research and multiple studies have proved beyond all doubt t h e e ff i c a c y o f t h e s e minerals in treating and preventing various diseases such as psoriasis, acne, and rheumatism. Dead Sea salt is beneficial to the skin and the rest of the body. The largest organ in the body, the skin seems to have the most noticeable effect from Dead Sea salt. The skin absorbs Dead Sea salt, vitamins and other substances into the body. It has now been scientifically proven that Dead Sea salts can have a wonderful effect on circulation and metabolism.
THERAPEUTIC BENEFITS The Dead Sea is a popular centre for wellness and health today,[4] Dead Sea salts have been reported to have the following benefits:
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Skin Ageing – Further research into Dead Sea salt benefits has shown a 40% reduction in the depth of wrinkling.[8]
BELOW ARE SOME OF THE BENEFITS OF SPECIFIC MINERALS TO THE SKIN AND BODY:
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Magnesium: Promotes quick healing of skin tissue and provides the skin's surface with anti-allergic elements and is also essential for cell metabolism. Bromide: Soothes skin, relaxes body muscles and calms nerves. Iodine: Important for the correct functioning of the thyroid gland and aids in the body's metabolic exchanges. Sulfur: A natural disinfectant (constituent of certain vitamins). Known as a powerful detoxifying agent, as it works closely with the liver to rid the body of toxins. Potassium: Helps balance moisture in the skin and body, aiding in the reduction of water retention and in the nourishment of cells. Potassium also regulates the nervous system. Calcium: An essential mineral, known to strengthen bones and teeth. Also strengthens cell membranes and cleanses pores. Sodium: Relieves stiffness and muscle cramps. Sodium is also a powerful detoxifying agent, helping cells retain nourishment and expel waste. Zinc: When applied topically, it is known to protect the skin against sunburn and windburn and also is known to boost the immune system. Internally, it is a key factor in enzymatic regulation of cell proliferation.
REFERENCES
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Common Skin Ailments – Research has demonstrated that skin disorders such as acne and psoriasis are relieved by regular soaking in water with added Dead Sea salt. The National Psoriasis Foundation recommends Dead Sea and Dead Sea salts as effective treatments for psoriasis.[6] One study[7] concluded that the high concentration of magnesium in Dead Sea salt was instrumental in improving skin hydration and reducing inflammation.[8] Allergies – The high concentration of bromide and magnesium in the Dead Sea salt can relieve allergic reactions by cleansing and detoxifying.[8]
Rheumatologic Conditions – Dead Sea salts can be effective in balneotherapy of Rheumatoid arthritis, Psoriatic Arthritis, and Osteoarthritis. The minerals are absorbed while soaking, stimulating blood circulation.[5]
[2] "Antimicrobial properties of Dead Sea black mineral mud", International Journal of Dermatology, May 2006. Retrieved on 2008-0413. [4] Fontanarosa, Phil (2002). Alternative Medicine: An Objective Assessment. New York: American Medical Association. pp. 112. ISBN 157947-002-5. [5] Harari, Marco; Shani, Jashovam. "Demographic evaluation of successful antipsoriatic climatotherapy at the Dead Sea (Israel) DMZ Clinic". International Journal of Dermatology 36 (4): 304305. doi:10.1046/j.1365-4362.1997.00204.x. [6] "The Dead Sea" National Psoriasis Foundation. Retrieved on 2008-0410. [7] Proksch, Ehrhardt MD, PhD et al. "Bathing in a magnesium-rich Dead Sea salt solution improves skin barrier function, enhances skin hydration, and reduces inflammation in atopic dry skin", International Journal of Dermatology, February 2005. Retrieved on 2008-04-13. [8] Ehrhardt, Proksch; Nissen, HP; Bremgartner, M; Urquhart, C. "Bathing in a magnesium-rich Dead Sea salt solution: follow-on review". International Journal of Dermatology 46 (2): 177179. doi:10.1111/j.13654632.2005.02079.x. PMID 15689218.
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AHAVA EXTREME Combining the mineral-rich benefit of the Dead Sea and a unique and patented blend of Himalayan plant extracts comes EXTREME – a complete product range from AHAVA that contains a scientific breakthrough formulation developed for mature skins 50+. It offers visible results to ageing skin and has been clinically proven effective through double-blind testing. These products target mature skin concerns and provide intense long-lasting moisture, promoting skin firmness and smoothness, while plumping out deep lines.
THE KEY ACTIVE INGREDIENTS IN EXTREME HAVE ORIGINATED FROM THE DEAD SEA AND THE HIMALAYAS AND INCLUDE: Ahava's Osmoter™, Dunaliella algae and date fruit extract combined with the extracts of resilient Himalayan moss, raspberry root and Tibetan Goji berries. This scientifically balanced complex consists of natural antioxidant, antiinflammatory and superior skin health restoring actives. Together, they revive the skin's natural ability to hydrate, renew and protect itself, while reinforcing the skin's immunity. The Extreme night treatment is deeply absorbed by the skin to repair daily damage, restore the barrier and skin health and provide renewed firmness and flexibility. The patented synergetic combination of natural ingredients delivers superior results to the skin through this unique formulation.
THE BENEFITS TO AGEING SKIN INCLUDE:
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Water binding agents for long-lasting vital hydration and prevention of trans-epidermal water loss through Osmoter™, Hyaluronic Acid, Glycerin, Erythritol and Homarine, Carob bean extract Cell communicators and collagen synthesis – firming effect and reduction of wrinkle depth and fine lines through Peptides, Resveratrol and Lecithin Antioxidants and anti-inflammatory agents – strengthens the skin's immune system and stimulates circulation through Dunalliela Salina, Teperone, Resveratrol , Date extract, Centella asiatica, Coffee (green) bean extract, Siegesbeckia and Rabdosia flower extracts
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Protects skin from dryness and maintains elasticity and softness – Rosa Centifolia flower, Olivate,
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Osmoter™, Glycerine
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Fortifies the natural skin barrier – Olivate, Glycerine, Osmoter™ ㈵
For further information on AHAVA skincare phone 1800 824 282.
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conferencereport
ANOTHER SUCCESSFUL YEAR AustralAsian Academy of Anti-Ageing Medicine Conference 2012 World and Australian leaders in Anti-Ageing and Integrative Medicine gathered in Melbourne on August 17, 18 & 19 for the 6th Annual AustralAsian Academy of Anti-Ageing & Aesthetic Medicine Conference (A5M), themed Integrative Health and Longevity. With the opening address delivered by Dr Nathan Francis, President of the A5M, and chaired by renowned Medical Commentator Dr Norman Swan, delegates were educated by some of the world's leaders in Preventative Medicine. Keynote addresses were delivered by internationally renowned Neurosurgeon, Sports Physician and Longevity Specialist Dr Joseph Maroon MD; renowned endocrine specialist Dr James Wilson; world
Alzheimer's expert Prof Ralph Martins; Stem Cell expert Dr Joseph Purita; Clinical Nutrition Specialist, Prof Melvyn Sydney-Smith and Prof Hee-Jin Kim, Aesthetic Specialist. Dr James Stoxen, famous for his barefoot-running protocols and chiropractor to the stars, delivered two seminars.
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The 300+ delegates were brought up to date with the latest advances in Anti-Ageing and Integrative Medicine, both internal and aesthetics. Dr Francis opened the conference with a sobering report on the state of our healthcare system and the need to evolve to an AntiAgeing/Preventative model of medicine. He explained how our swiftly ageing population and overburdened health system leaves our
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government no choice but to consider an evolution of healthcare to an Anti-Ageing and Integrative model, if they are to counteract the rapid increase in chronic diseases. Australia's healthcare bill will soar by 127% in the next 20 years, yet much of our disease burden is due to preventable risk factors. Growing old can no longer be considered a genetic predisposition. Research is consistently showing that environmental and lifestyle factors play a significant role in changing the physiological process. Studies now confirm that only 30% of what happens to our health is genetically determined, while 70% is environmentally determined. The pressure is being felt by policy-makers, scientists, and the medical profession and also with pharmacists, compounders, aestheticians and technology developers alike. This is leading to the rapid evolution to Anti-Ageing Medicine/Preventative Medicine, which is now the fastest-growing evidence-based medical specialty, integrating diet, nutrition, lifestyle, exercise and supplementation to support good health. This year's program presented a comprehensive multi-stream of evidence-based scientific, research and clinical studies and extensive medical exposition. The Conference featured many of the leading programs for internal and aesthetic medicine.
INTERNAL STREAM Renowned US Neurosurgeon and Longevity Expert Dr Joseph Maroon joined a powerhouse of Medical Leaders, including highly acclaimed Dr Norman Swan, to reveal the most cutting edge research and medical breakthroughs to combat chronic diseases and increase the human lifespan, which could save Australians billions in healthcare. World-leading speakers presented the latest breakthroughs in Preventative and Integrative Medicine. Stand-out evidence included: > The role of phytonutrients in Cancer prevention. This ground breaking research spanned the anti-cancer properties of Resveratrol, Omega 3, Green Tea, Curcumin and Lycopene presented by Dr Joseph Maroon. > Dr James Wilson spoke about the role of stress response, particularly the adrenal glands, and how they interact with the digestive system and the immune system surrounding the intestinal tract and how physicians can use this information to help patients. > Renowned cell biologist Prof Chen Chen presented new evidence how our high-fat diets are creating havoc with our hormones and having long-term ramifications for health and ageing.
Tina Viney and Dr Joseph Maroon
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Maximum topical benefits of cosmeceuticals was explored by biomedical scientist Terri Vinson and the importance of Zinc oxide as a primary Anti-Ageing ingredient in skin care formulations along with other scientifically recognised essential cosmeceuticals such as Vitamin A, B and C.
The first-ever Conference Panel event was launched with a half hour debate hosted by Dr Norman Swan, with panel members Dr James Wilson, Christine Houghton and Dr Kamal Karl, fielding questions from the delegates about the morning's lectures. It provided for lively debate between delegates and panel alike.
AESTHETIC STREAM
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The Aesthetic stream brought together the latest research and technological advancements in skin treatments, stem cell research, fillers and injectables, aesthetic procedures, laser and skin rejuvenation and lifestyle approaches to achieve best aesthetic outcomes.
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Some of the highlights were:
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CEO of Australia's largest Compounding Pharmacy Daryll Knowles explored the factors that contribute to skin colour, how they are used in whitening formulations and covered the latest active treatment products used for skin whitening.
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Dr Norman Swan
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AESTHETIC WORKSHOP The one-day AustralAsian Integrative & Aesthetics Workshop was once again staged in association with APAN and chaired by APAN's CEO, Tina Viney, who delivered the opening address. This year's program brought together key speakers at the forefront of rejuvenation who are integrating the latest Anti-Ageing principles into their practice to achieve the best treatment outcomes, providing attendees with a holistic approach to their clients' wellness.
Panel Event - Dr James Wilson, Christine Houghton and Dr Kamal Karl
A5M President Dr Nathan Francis, A5M General Manager Helen Anton, Dr Joseph Maroon
The Workshop counted as an elective towards the AustralAsian Certification in Anti-Ageing Medicine. > Debora-Dale Young presented an overview of Anti-Ageing Medicine tailored for the paramedical Aesthetic delegates, outlining the key roles and influences of diet, lifestyle, nutrition, supplementation and hormones relating specifically to supporting skin health and wellbeing. > Daryll Knowles presented an overview of the myriad of hormones that interact in our bodies and their role in supporting overall wellbeing and achieving optimal weight and positive aesthetics > Nutritional Medicine expert Dr Kamal Karl revealed new understandings of the brain-gut connection and that poor digestion can lead to a myriad of health functions leading to poor skin condition. > Gay Wardle, one of Australia's most awarded salon owners and educators, presented strategies for the best treatments and protocols to run a successful and profitable aesthetic or spa business. > Dr Francis Pitsilis presented metabolic Disorders and the Ageing process. Obesity, Weightloss and treatment and protocols. > Ric Williams presented on Anti-ageing and Aesthetics – the latest on cosmetic chemistry and advances in ingredient formulations. > Jo Burgess talked about effective marketing for your business and expounded on new marketing tools and strategies. This information allowed progressive therapists to gain valuable insight into broader and more specific health factors that may be hindering their clients' treatment results through the presentation of the latest scientific findings and advances in nutriceuticals and nutrigenomics.
Terry Everitt, Tina Viney and Dr Michael Zacharia
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Professor Hee-Jin Kim presented the latest findings in facial anatomy to help ensure best and safest injectable and filler practice. Advances in laser, cosmeceuticals, injecting, thread lifting and hormones relating to skin were discussed.
The 2012 A5M Conference program successfully spanned the full gamut of Integrative and Longevity Medicine, including prevention, research, education, and clinical care as well as ways to create behavioural change and motivate patients and clients to avoid illness and maintain overall wellness.
For early bird registration for the AustralAsian Academy of AntiAgeing Medicine Conference 2013, August 23 and 24, Sofitel Melbourne on Collins, please visit www.a5m.net or call 03 9813 0439.
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salonbusiness
ESTABLISHING YOUR CORE VALUES
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The first way to action the core values is to share them with your team. In a smaller company it might be a great idea to create a team-building exercise where you can all establish the core values together by getting each staff member to share what is important to them. I actually did this with my team when I took them away for a two day country retreat. Obviously, as the owner of the company, you must make sure that each staff member is aware and willing to live up to the expectations of your core values. If you have had these in mind when going through the hiring process you will find that the staff you have chosen would have similar core values to yours.
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How to Sustain Long-Term Business Success through
COMPANY CULTURE Tess Walls Company culture is one of the most effective tools to secure staff satisfaction, while giving you the competitive advantage over other businesses. Furthermore, culture plays such a vital role in sustaining long-term success in business. However, to allow us to do this we first must clarify exactly what we mean by “company culture”. A general search on the internet reveals that it is the collective behavior of humans that are part of a company. Culture is formed by the company's values, visions, norms, working language, systems, and symbols that includes beliefs and habits. It is also the pattern of such collective behaviors and assumptions that are taught to new company members as a way of perceiving, and even thinking and feeling in a way that reflects what that company stands for and how they want to be perceived by their clients. Company culture affects the way people and groups feel within themselves and then interact with each other and with their clients. So now that we know what it is, how do we achieve this within a salon environment? First, we must establish what it is that is most important to us, in the form of our core values. You will probably find that very few businesses actually write these down and then hire and lead their team in a manner which always reflects their values.
For example, your values might be: 1. Honesty and Truth thinking from the heart 2. Integrity 3. Exceptional Customer Service 4. Good Manners 5. Respect
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So once you have defined your core values you must then think about how they can be expressed and how you are going to make them a part of your life as well as every one of your staff member's daily life. You cannot achieve great company culture by simply keeping these core values in your head, or by writing them down and never looking at them again. They must be expressed through action.
The next step (which can be done at the same time if time allows it, or at a follow up meeting), is to cut the list down to four or six values because I believe that if you have too many it is too difficult to focus on what is important. Once you have isolated the four to six most important values listed then discuss examples of how you can implement these values in the workplace. All staff members must believe in these values and understand that before they make any comment to each other, or to their clients, or take any action within their day-to-day duties, they must first think of how their actions or comments align or reflect the core values of the business. The core values need to be given in writing to all staff members and written everywhere behind the scenes so that you and your staff are reminded of them daily. If you are constantly reminded of something, the message generally gets reinforced, so as long as you are backing them up in staff meetings, you will find that it will be much easier for everyone to “walk the talk”.
REFLECTING YOUR OWN VALUES The most important person to be living by these values is the owner of the business. If you are saying something, but your actions are saying something else then your staff will lose trust in you and nothing damages a company's culture more than a lack of trust by the people you are trying to influence. Your interaction with them should also reflect the culture you are trying to get them to live up to. Culture is an inclusive issue that must be lived daily, not masked only for the benefit of the clients.
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NURTURE GROWTH
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The next vital part of the puzzle is to develop a nurturing work environment, one where everyone respects each other. This does not mean that you have to “mother” your staff I have seen this happen and experience suggests this does not work. The main problem with this type of management style is that it will sometimes lead to staff taking the owner or manager of the business for granted and this can lead to
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having little respect for their need to follow business systems. The issue is to foster self-development and growth, not co-dependency, as this type of management style will not lead to great company culture. To create a nurturing environment you should aim to develop staff that are confident and believe in your values and therefore are fostered to duplicate you and think on their feet. They should be always thinking about the core values of the business and working towards one common goal- the success of the business. Once you have the correct nurturing environment established you must be constantly checking what I call the “pH” levels to make sure that you maintain the right equilibrium and the right environment for growth.
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I liken it to a fish aquarium-once you have set the right pH levels of the water you cannot just put the fish in and leave them. You will need to constantly check those pH levels as any changes could lead to your fish dying, as an imbalance in the water's pH could lead to you losing all of your fish. I would recommend constant monitoring the behaviour of your staff to make sure everyone is happy and working in synergy. As business owners we have many roles to play, but the most important one is to make sure we have the correct people working for us and that everyone is feeling fulfilled within their role. As I have previously mentioned, ensuring your core values are adhered to will first require that you hire the right people with the right attitude in the first place. However, sometimes because of external influences and personal emotional challenges staff attitudes can change at any time so it is vital that you keep an eye out for these issues to address them before they become larger problems. I am certainly not an expert in physiology however, I have always found that addressing an issue with a staff member in a timely manner and helping them find a solution often helps to quickly overcome the issue. Someone once said to me “if you get the right people on the bus you can take the bus anywhere you want”, I have never forgotten this statement, it is something that I think of often and it reminds me to make sure that I always hire a person on their attitude and not just their skills, as skills can be taught, but a bad attitude is very difficult to change! I trust I have given you some food for thought. At this point I would recommend that you get a piece of paper and write down your core values – that's if you don't already have this system in place! If you have core values maybe it is time for a “company culture audit” just to make sure that you “have the right people on the bus” and the bus is going in the right direction!
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Tess Walls is a qualified Beauty Therapist, Trainer and Director of ISPA Group and the Australian Distributor of the skincare brand Germaine de Capuccini. She has 19 years experience in the spa and beauty industry in Australia and has a passion for helping others build their business step-by-step. Tess has also undertaken studies on the psychology of sales and loves imparting her knowledge to others. She works extensively within the aesthetic and spa industry teaching therapists how to offer exceptional client services to their clients. Tess is no stranger to success. She has owned her own salon and managed spas in exclusive international resorts, including they Hyatt Regency Spa, Grand Cayman Island, Caribbean and is an acknowledged expert in spa and salon systems. If you believe that Tess can help you grow your business phone 1300 432 100 or mobile 0424 419 876.
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AESTHETIC INDUSTRY BULLETIN
This section presents the latest news, training dates and other Aesthetic Industry information.
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Australia will be introducing SPF 50+ by the end of the year, but how will it compare with SPF 30+?
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Due to a recently revised Australian Standard being announced, upping the previously capped level of SPF 30 to SPF 50+ by the end of the year, we're shining the light on SPF 50+ sunscreen. What is SPF 50+? What difference will it make and why all the controversy? The facts are that here in the land of the Bronzed Aussie, we may be renowned as having some of the best beaches in the world, but far less boastworthy we're also known for having the highest rate of skin cancer in the world. Shockingly, over 430,000 Australians are treated for skin cancer each year, with one Australian dying from the disease every eight hours. “We know that the SPF of a sunscreen is derived by taking the time it takes you to burn with a sunscreen and dividing it by the time taken for you to burn without a sunscreen. For example, if you burn in 300 minutes with a sunscreen and 10 minutes without a sunscreen, this is 300/10 = 30. So the sunscreen will have an SPF of 30. Following on from this, an SPF 50+ will offer 50 times your natural protection, if you put it on correctly and reapply as recommended,” says Dr Kerryn Greive, Head of R&D at Ego Pharmaceuticals.
So what is the difference between SPF 30+ and SPF 50+? Contrary to popular belief, the protection is not almost double. In reality, by using SPF 50 there is only a 1.3 per cent increase in protecting yourself from harmful rays. When used correctly, SPF 30 will block 97% of UV light, while an SPF 50+ will block out around 98.3%.
Why all the controversy surrounding SPF 50? According to the Australian Cancer Council, the concern is that the new SPF 50+ rating is misleading, and may give consumers a false sense of security in thinking that by using an SPF 50+ sunscreen, it drastically increases their level of protection, hence may be inclined to use less of it, or won't apply it as often when in reality, the extra level of protection is minute. 㤵
Another concern is that by increasing the SPF of sunscreen can this cause a vitamin D deficiency? Not so, according to Dr Kerryn, who says that even with sunscreen on, if you go into the sun, you will get enough vitamin D, as sunscreen does not prevent us from producing it.
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“The final verdict is that the better the sun protection we can wear each and every day, the better our lifetime protection will be,” says Dr Kerryn. “Moving to SPF 50 is a great step forward for Australia as it means we will have access to the best possible sun protection. The debate surrounding SPF 50 has been the result of Australia realising how important this issue is, and wanting to be sure that it is done right.”
Ref: http://www.rescu.com.au
Triclosan research points to impaired muscle function Triclosan, an antibacterial agent found in handsoaps, could lead to impaired muscle function suggests latest research from scientists at the universities of California and Colorado. Test-tube experiments carried out at the universities on laboratory animals showed reduced physical function, tests on isolated heart and skeletal muscle showed impaired muscle contractions at a cellular level and experiments on fish showed reduced muscle movement and mobility. The experiments were carried out as a joint research project and the results were published online in the peer-reviewed Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences of the United States. "Triclosan is found in virtually everyone's home and is pervasive in the environment," said Isaac Pessah, professor and chair of the Department of Molecular Biosciences in the UC Davis School of Veterinary Medicine, who also led the study. "These findings provide strong evidence that the chemical is of concern to both human and environmental health.” According to the researchers’ notes, the dosages used in the experiments were matched to that found in the list of personal care products, to assimilate regular consumer use as much as possible. The test-tube experiments focused on the effects of triclosan on molecular channels in muscle cells, where the fall of calcium ions, dictates muscle contractions. The experiments found that with the presence of triclosan, the normal communication of proteins that functions muscle movement was impaired, leading to skeletal and cardiac muscle failure.
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Hand-held devices coupled with skincare the new trend As consumers are becoming more demanding for longerlasting results from their cosmetic formulations, the new emmerging trend is going to be the coupling of hand-held devices used in conjunction with cosmetics, giving consumers added benefits. According to Dan Edwards, senior vice-president of Sagentia's consumer and industrial products division, the driving force behind companies now looking at coupling devices with their skincare has to do with the fact that there is significant evidence that consumers are looking for “something more” from their skincare, which technologically advanced devices can help to do by providing enhancements to their beauty regime. Currently there are several companies who are looking at the evolution of the cosmetic device category as the next generation trend that will support better performance of their skincare. As consumers become more familiar with the use of hand-held devices as a product penetration enhancer so salons will also need to demonstrate to consumers that they are one step ahead through the introduction of advanced technologies that can take their treatment results to a more advanced level. The modern salon can no longer be considered progressive without the use of technology to drive results to a higher level.
International Aesthetic Show Calendar
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Produced by Terry Everitt, Aesthetic Educators 㜵
Sept30-Oct1 Professional Beauty Dublin RDS Dublin T: + 44 (0)844 557 0914 Email: info@professionalbeauty.co.uk
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Oct13-15 CIDESCO World Congress Swissôtel, Zürich Switzerland T: + 41 44 448 22 00 F: + 41 44 448 22 01 Email: info@cidesco.com
Oct14-15 Professional Beauty North Manchester Central T: + 44 (0)844 557 0914 Email: info@professionalbeauty.co.uk
Oct15-17 Beauty World Japan West Intex, 1-5-102, Nanko-Kita, Suminoe-ku, Nanko, Osaka T: + 49 69 75 75-0 F: + 49 69 75 75-64 33 beautyworld@messefrankfurst.com
Oct18-20 Shanghai World Congress on Anti-Aging Medicine and Regenerative Biomedical Technologies Expo Shanghai World Expo Exhibition and Convention Center Shanghai, China T: + 1-561-997-0112 Email: doreen.brown@a4m.com Oct28-29 International Congress of Esthetics & Spa Pennsylvania Convention Center Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, USA T: + 1 305 443-2322 F: + 1 305 443-1664 Email: registration@lneonline.com
Nov4-5
Int. Esthetics, Cosmetics & Spa Conference Broward Country Convention Center Fort Lauderdale, FL, USA T: +1 203-383-0516 F: +1 212-895-8209 Email: dwaltersdorf@questex.com
STRAWBERRIES ON THE DEFENCE
Strawberries contain anthocyanidins and anthocyanins which are water soluble flavonoids that give colour and protection to plants. These are great antioxidant free-radical scavengers that are well known to also possess skin benefits. Now scientists from Italy and Spain have found that strawberry extract protects the skin against UVA rays, and could open the door to the creation of photo-protective skin moisturisers made from strawberries.
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One experiment showed that strawberry extract added to skin cell culture acts as a protector against ultraviolet radiation as well as increasing its viability and reducing damage to DNA. The results published in the Journal of Agricultural Food Chemistry, showed that the strawberry extract, especially at the concentration of 0.5mg/ml, demonstrated photoprotective properties in those fibroblasts exposed to UVA radiation, increasing cell survival and decreasing damage in the DNA when compared with other control cells.
Ref: Journal of Agricultural Food Chemistry
Nov 9-11 Cosmoprof ASIA Convention & Exhibition Centre Hong Kong T: +852-2827 6211 F: +852-3749 7345 E-mail: joanne.fai@ubm.com Nov29-30 International Luxury Spa Summit Sao Paolo, Brazil Email: ilss@brand-vision.net
Web: www. internationalluxuryspasummit.com
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Dec12-15 20th Annual World Congress on Anti-Aging Medicine and Biomedical Technologies Venetian Resort Hotel Casino Las Vegas, Nevada T: + 1-561-997-0112 Email: doreen.brown@a4m.com
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Hilton Hotels unveil Global Report on Spa Trends Recently, guests were invited to the Zeta Bar at the Hilton Hotel, Sydney, to hear Tyra Lowman, senior director, global spa, full service and luxury brands, Hilton Worldwide and Dave Horton, global head, Hilton Hotels and Resorts discuss emerging global spa trends as a result of extensive research conducted by Hilton Worldwide.
MAKEUP KITS and Training SkinO2 is proud to announce the release of specially designed makeup kits for beauty training colleges. Colleges are now realising the need to update the makeup they supply to their students and replace it with the functional makeup that actually treats the skin while you wear it, instead of the traditional cover-up makeup that is often waxy or contributes to skin problems. National trainer Alira de Palma will be holding national workshops on this new makeup with benefits.
For further details phone SkinO2 on 07 5593 4488.
The Hilton Blue Paper released July 17, 2012 outlines insights from a collection of industry experts notably the Hilton Worldwide Spa team and founders of top spa product brands. In addition, the Blue Paper draws insight from over 6000 survey respondents throughout the United States, Great Britain, Australia and China. “Spa is a key differentiator for us within both the leisure and business travel segments today,” said Horton. “This new research emphasises the importance of spas in the decision to book a hotel stay, particularly in the rapidly expanding Chinese market. We found that 69 per cent of travellers said they were at least somewhat likely to visit the spa at their hotel.”
Key findings presented in the Hilton Blue Paper include:
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“While we find many of the global spa trends are consistent around the world, there are also notable and significant regional differences,” said Lowman. “A successful spa concept on a global level is one that offers reliable services across its portfolio, while respecting regional differences by providing locally influenced treatments and services.”
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VAL WINS ANOTHER AWARD
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The overall importance of spas to the hotel industry, which are offering properties a distinct competitive advantage in booking, driving revenue and attracting local customers beyond the overnight guest. The growing importance of men to the global spa industry and how a successful spa should tailor its offerings for this audience. The need for global spa concepts to offer consistent services across their portfolios while also allowing for local flexibility. The significance of business travellers, who are increasingly looking for relevant ways to decompress between meetings, as well as extend their visits as part of the "blended travel" experience.
Having worked tirelessly towards the advancement in Cosmetic Tattoo for over 27years Val Glover-Hovan has won several awards both in Australia and in the US. In August Val was once again recognised at the Australian Beauty Industry Awards hosted by Mocha Publishing. Val was first to be inducted into the Hall of Fame of these awards.
Eforea Spa This Hilton Blue Paper is released as Eforea: spa at Hilton, the global concept created by Hilton Worldwide, continues to expand its global footprint. Since its October 2010 launch by Hilton Hotels & Resorts, Eforea has grown to include 11 locations in seven countries., with more than 90 additional locations in development., making it one of the fastest growing spa concepts worldwide.
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APJ 48
New areas of DNA linked to skin cancer
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Acne Bombs Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine recently reported lauric acid, a natural product found in coconut oil and human breast milk, could become the latest acne treatment thanks to research by Dissaya “Nu” Pornpattananangkul, a bioengineering graduate student from the University of California, San Diego, Jacobs School of Engineering. Her research was published in the American Chemical Society Journal in March 2010. According to a report from the university “Nu” developed a smart delivery system capable of delivering lauric acid-filled nano-scale liposome “bombs” directly to the skin-dwelling bacteria Propionibacterium acne. While current acne treatments reportedly can impart undesirable side effects such as redness and burning, this lauric acid-based treatment could avoid such effects. The new smart delivery system, as described by the university, includes gold nanoparticles attached to surfaces of lauric acid-filled liposomes, i.e., non-bombs. The nanoparticles stop the liposomes from fusing together and also help locate acne-causing bacteria. Once the liposomes reach the bacterial membranes, the acidic microenvironment causes the gold nanoparticles to drop off, which frees the liposomes carrying lauric acid payloads to fuse the bacteria membranes and kill the P. acne bacteria. Ref: GC magazine
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If you have fair skin tone, blue or green eyes, blonde or red hair and a high mole count, you're probably aware these traits are associated with a high risk of melanoma, the most dangerous type of skin cancer. Now, four new areas on human chromosomes, unrelated to the usual pigmentation risk factors, have been identified as holding genes related to the risk of developing the cancer. Scientists have previously identified areas on the chromosome called genetic loci, that encode traits, such as fair skin that make people susceptible to the development of skin cancer. In two studies appearing in an October 2011 issue of Nature Genetics, researchers have compared the DNA of several thousand melanoma patients to that of healthy controls to discover new variants unrelated to these usual pigmentation risk factors. These variants may instead favour development of melanoma by interfering with the skin cells' ability to repair DND damage caused by UV radiation, or they may play a critical role in the control of cell proliferation and cell death. The Australian research group involved in the study, led by Stuart MacGregory from the Queensland Institute of Medical Research in Brisbane, identified a variant locus on chromosome 1 that correlated with risk of melanoma, while researchers from the Cancer Research UK Centre discovered three loci on chromosomes 2, 11 and 21. Determining exactly what different genes in these newly discovered loci do is the next step on the scientists' agenda. “This could potentially give us novel insight into how melanoma develops and how we can either prevents or treat it,” said co-author Mark Iles from the Cancer Research UK Centre. Ref: Cosmos p22
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Kahai Nut Oil – the new anti-ageing ingredient As natural botanicals are being researched for the anti-ageing benefits the new comer to the market is the Colombian Kahai Nut Oil. Touting an array of amazing properties the Kahai Nut Oil targets the anti-ageing category as a viable ingredient due to its nourishing and rejuvenating properties. The most significant property is its natural retinol with studies showing that it contains three times the amount found in rose hip oil, which also containing 50 per cent more vitamin E and 75 per cent more vitamin F than Argan Oil. To top these skin rejuvenating properties it also contains impressive high levels of Omega 3, 6 and 9, which give the oil an excellent penetrative effect to the skin, providing a natural vehicle for active ingredients to the deeper layers of the skin. While it has yet to hit the international market, look out for Kahai Nut Oil as the next new comer to the anti-ageing ingredientlisting.
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The Nutriceuticals Industry is currently estimated to be $2 billion and is rapidly expanding to projections as high as $4 billion by 2015, with the growth fuelled by the ageing baby boomers and the increased consumer awareness regarding nutriceuticals into their daily skincare routine. With ongoing research validated the benefits of internal supplementation for enhancing “beauty from within” has given rise to many new product innovations that will be offering active ingredients taken internally, while also applied topically. For example pomegranate extract with its high vitamins C, A and E as well as folic acid is not only beneficial in a skincare formulation but also taken internally. One company BioCell technology has published the first human skin study demonstrating the efficacy of its orally ingested BioCell Collagen in improving the visible signs of ageing. The findings were published in the Journal of Clinical Interventions in Ageing. The study enrolled 26 women between the ages of 35 and 59, who took the supplement daily for 12 weeks, resulting in the majority experiencing improvement in skin texture, hydration, reduced scaling and improved blood microcirculation.
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APJ 49
legalmatters
NEW TOOL for determining the correct rate of pay
PAY CHECK PLUS By Sophie Ware Pointon Partner Lawyers Determining the correct wage for their staff members has been a nightmare for many employers, so much so that several have chosen to not replace staff after they leave or to engage new staff members on a contract basis. However, there are several complications with these arrangements as this system has its limitations and restrictions of what you are allowed to expect from a contractor. For example, with a contractor you cannot roster them with expected times of “employment” as a guarantee. If a contractor does not have any appointments they have the right to leave for the day, whereas an employee is expected to remain at work in accordance with the terms and conditions of their employment. There is no doubt that the Government does not particularly favour contracts and for this reason has placed limitations in a bid to discourage their use in favour of wages.
One of the services that APAN provides its members is on the issue of industrial relations, and by far the most complex concerns is in determining the correct pay rate for an employee, as in order to determine the correct answer there is a need for extensive information to be presented. This may include providing information on the structure of the business (sole trader or Pty Ltd) and the State they are operating in, to a full profile of the age, level of qualifications, at what level they left school and the status of their employment – full time, part-time, casual, trainee, etc.
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Through the services of Pointon Partner Lawyers APAN has attempted to provide a service to our members in this regard, however, this has sometimes proven to be a lengthy process.
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ago APAN submitted a report to Fair Work on behalf of the industry outlining your major concerns. One of them was how complex the system is in accurately determining salaries. On June 26 Fair Work launched a new on-line tool to help simplify this process. In this article Sophie Ware from Pointon Partners Lawyers explains the new PayCheck Plus facility and how it can be used. PayCheck Plus is a user-friendly online application, provided and administered by Fair Work Australia. It may be used by employers and employees to determine relevant rates of pay under the Modern Awards at any point in time. PayCheck Plus enables the user to determine a specific base rate of pay, overtime, penalty rates and allowances on a per hour basis. Furthermore, employees and employers may determine the relevant hourly wage, depending on their shift, for a seven-day period. The advantage of using PayCheck Plus is that it is continually updated and may be relied upon to provide accurate and efficient advice, even when changes are made to the minimum wage rates as recorded from time to time in the Modern Awards. In the event that you are unable to use this application you may contact the Fair Work Ombudsman for further assistance.
PayCheck Plus has two separate applications: 1. Check my pay – By searching an individual job title or classification the user may determine a single rate of pay. 2. Check my payroll – More thorough option that enables employers to select and calculate numerous rates of pay for multiple employees.
TRANSITIONAL PROVISIONS Transitional provisions are present in most Modern Awards, including the Hair and Beauty Industry Award 2010. The transitional provisions allow for the phasing in of the Modern Award as employers change pay and penalty rates from the Pre-Modern Awards to Modern Awards. PayCheck plus takes into account both pre-modern awards and modern awards and as such the relevant transitional provisions thus making it a very useful tool in eliminating the need for you to separately calculate it.
Australia contact Wageline on 1300 655 266 if calling from within Western Australia or (08) 9222 7700 if calling from interstate.
WHO MAY NOT USE PAYCHECK PLUS?
> > > >
Employees under Transitional Awards Agreement-based transitional instruments – an individual or collective agreement (e.g. AWA's or Collective agreements) Trainees Apprentices covered by 'QLD Apprentices & trainees wages and conditions 2003'If you are ever in doubt as to whether you may use PayCheck Plus, or you are not able to use PayCheck Plus, you may contact the Fair Work Ombudsman for further assistance.
WHO MAY USE PAYCHECK PLUS? PayCheck Plus was designed for use by companies only. However, by undertaking a number of comparisons between Modern and PreModern Awards, you are able to determine if PayCheck Plus may be used by sole proprietors and partnerships also.
HOW TO USE PAYCHECK PLUS The system is very user- friendly to use: 1. 2.
Sole proprietors, partnerships and companies within the following States And Territories may use the PayCheck Plus application: > Queensland > New South Wales > Australian Capital Territory > South Australia > Victoria > Northern Territory > Tasmania Due to State industrial relation systems effective in Western Australia, it is recommended that sole proprietors and partnerships in Western
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Log on to the Fair Work Ombudsman website at www.fairwork.gov.au Select the tab titled 'Pay' and on the dropdown bar select 'PayCheck Plus' Select 'Launch PayCheck Plus Once in the PayCheck Plus application, the user may select either 'Check my pay' or 'Check my payroll' Once you have made your selection you will be required to provide details pertaining to the business and employees.
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For further information in relation to PayCheck Plus, assistance in determining the relevant wage required by awards or any other employment wage related matter you may contact the Fair Work Ombudsman on 13 13 94.
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APJ 51
advancedtechnology
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APJ 52
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The use of RF (Radio Frequency) in medical and non-medical aesthetic is not new. As a surgical tool, RF energy is found in almost every operating theatre around the world. Beauty Therapists have utilised RF energy for electrolysis since the early 1900s. When we think of Radio Frequency what first comes to mind is a transmission tower on a nearby hill sending out electromagnetic radio waves to which we tune into to enjoy our favorite music or talkback. In our industry, RF refers to an alternating electrical source (electricity) that oscillates back and forth so quickly it has little to no effect on muscles, therefore does not cause electrocution. Instead, this highfrequency electrical energy only produces heat. The thermal effect of RF can range from tissue ablation and coagulation to tissue stimulation.
energy through the epidermis into the target (the dermis). We've been constantly limited by patient discomfort, which often resulted in an abrupt conclusion to treatment with the unlikely return of the clients for additional sessions. This occurs because until now we had no real time epidermal tissue temperature control of the RF energy so isolated hot spots were unavoidable. However, an Israeli-based company, Invasix Inc, has developed a system that regulated the RF energy based on real time epidermal temperature. This control allows prolonged RF treatments, resulting in deeper, more homogeneous distribution of the heat, which in turn stimulates more fibreblasts while managing patient discomfort.
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FRACTIONAL RF RF AND COLLAGEN REMODELLING In the early1990s laser skin resurfacing was a popular cosmetic procedure that involved the use of lasers with selected wavelengths highly absorbed by water. Laser parameters were controlled in such a manner that their energy was contained within the highly water-based epidermis, however, it was noted that a certain amount of heat conducted through to the dermis. Clinical studies determined that this heat was directly responsible for the production of fibreblasts
Fractional laser skin treatments have now been proven safe and effective for achieving younger and more even skin texture, and to a certain degree has replaced full-face laser skin resurfacing. The benefit for a fractionated treatment is shorter recovery, lower risk of pigmentation changes and is a procedure normally performed under topical anaesthetics. In essence, a fractionated treatment consists of thousands of micro ablation zones, each 100 to 200 microns in size to a depth of up to 1mm. Such a treatment leaves large reservoirs of intact tissue to assist in overall healing. Today there are a number of RF
New advancements in the Application of RF in Aesthetics By Mark Hassall
New developments in Radio Frequency technology promise greater client comfort and better treatment results in skin tightening and rejuvenation. Here educator Mark Hassall presents some of the challenges and limitation of past devices and how advances in technology are now solving these problems with more reliable treatment outcomes as well as diverse treatment options.
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resulting in the formation of new collagen. This new collagen thickened the dermis and added renewed elasticity, helping to reduce the appearance of wrinkles and improving the overall skin texture. In the right hands this procedure today still delivers excellent clinical outcome, but lost favour due to lengthy recovery-time and the risk of hypo-pigmentation. However the cosmetic benefit of heating the dermis has not been overlooked. One of the first nonablative applications of RF as an alternative to Light-based technologies in aesthetics was to drive heat into the dermis while retaining the integrity of the epidermis. In our clinic we have owned four different RF devices specifically designed for this purpose. The limitation has been getting sufficient
devices available that also offer fractionated treatments. Clinical studies have shown the thermal profile of the above RF fractionated treatments to be consistent to that of a fractionated CO2 laser. The benefit of RF is it is a more highly reliable technology, does not have the restrictive safety issues associated with laser, is more affordable and can provide other RF applications.
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RF AND BODY CONTOURING There are a number of RF devices on the market today claiming to treat isolated areas of fat non-invasively. However, most are only heating devices that at best will assist in lymphatic drainage due to the increasing blood flow associated with the RF heat. Again, most devices do not have any means of real-time temperature control so the
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Invasix is the most versatile Radio Frequency tool on the market today
APPLICATIONS:
effective thermal effect is marginal and patient discomfort again is a limiting factor.
BodyTite
However, a new RF applicator, TiteFX, combines RF with highamplitude electroporation pulses. The TiteFX applicator (as with many RF devices) heats the tissue of concern using RF energy, however, it controls and monitors epidermal temperature in real time for even thermal distribution and patient comfort. What is unique about TiteFX is once the skin temperature set point is reached a chain of high voltage RF pulses (2.5Kvolts per pulse) are delivered, which results in irreversible electroporation to the adipose tissue resulting in apoptosis. The high peak voltage is selective to adipocytes as the intensity is set to only affects the membrane of large cells (smaller cells require much higher voltage to achieve similar effects). A soon to be published medical paper from France has shown clinical evidence that apoptosis is clearly evident after electroporation from the TiteFX handpiece.
Radio Frequency Assisted Liposuction
NeckTite FaceTite Factionated RF Skin Treatment
Firm and Firm Plus non-ablative Skin tightening
MINIMALLY INVASIVE RF
Invasix offer effective invasive and non-invasive applications. Choose one, choose them all!
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FOR MORE INFORMATION: Spectra Medical (Aust) Pty Ltd Sydney: 02 8003 3675 Melbourne: 03 9017 1866 Brisbane: 07 3040 2053 NZ +64 9 8899231 Email: invasix@gmail.com Web: www.invasix.com
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Skin laxity is a possible side-effect for some patients after liposuction and the likely risk often will exclude them from treatment. RF energy is going some way to alleviate this issue so Invasix has developed an aspirational handpiece that simultaneously transmits RF energy from the tip of the internal canula to a constant superior epidermal tissue temperaturecontrolled return plate. The internal canula reaches temperatures high enough to melt fat, coagulate blood vessels and cause significant shrinkage of fibre septi as well as stimulate collagen, while at the same time measuring and controlling epidermal temperature to remain within safe preset limits. Up to 50% tissue contraction has been measured with this technology. This new clinical approach for the application of internal RF has applicators for both face and neck and is showing great promise as an alternative for patients considering face and neck lifts.
CONCLUSION RF is showing to be a versatile modality in aesthetics offering significant alternatives for many invasive and non-invasive applications. Mark Hassall Spectra Medical (Aust) Pty Ltd
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APJ 54
apanevent
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APAN launches NEW HORIZONS Conference in Sydney Due to several emails from members in Sydney to conduct a NEW HORIZONS Conference in their region, as a last-minute decision, APAN staged the one-day event on Monday 13th August directly after the Sydney International Spa and Beauty Expo at Citigate Central Hotel.
The event launched a new updated educational seminar content that was not presented previously. As a result several salon owners who had attended the previous APAN event joined us once again as they perceived the value to their business. There were six conference speakers who presented valuable and timely information. Peter Fraser, social media and corporate business expert presented a compelling lecture on how to increase business traffic through the medium of Social Media. He identified what strategies work and in his opinion, which ones were not as productive, helping businesses understand how to more successfully optimise their presence in the on-line space.
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Terry Everitt not only undertook the role of MC, which he always competently handles, but also presented a lecture on the science of skin ageing and learning how to get the best results. His lecture presented new scientific data on ingredient chemistry.
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APJ 56
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APJ 57
Solicitor Michael Bishop gave an update on the new changes in FairWork to an eager audience and was inundated with questions as businesses took advantage of the opportunity to gain a greater understanding on specifics that related to their staff employment.
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Suzanne Sparrow-Crisp gave a very educational presentation on changes to the insurance landscape and areas that salons need to be made aware of when approaching the issue of appropriate insurance cover and how to avoid potential litigation. This lecture was very well received by salon owners and going from the feedback many gained a must better understanding of the dynamics that affect their protection.
Radio-Frequency is fast becoming a valuable technology in the aesthetic therapist's arsenal of treatment tools, but there is still some level of confusion as to how it differs from other light-based technologies and the role it can play in the contemporary salon or clinic. Mark Hassall's lecture covered a comprehensive explanation on radiofrequency and its differentiation from other light-based treatments in terms of outcomes and treatment results. The seminar conference was completed with Gay Wardle presenting information on how to increase your business revenue by providing a superior service through more advanced knowledge that will allow you to gain the competitive advantage, stimulate business growth and retain client loyalty. The overall response provided through the feedback form was that the topics were very valuable, diverse and comprehensive enough to provide delegates with depth of knowledge at an advanced level. As a result this event will be repeated next year again in Sydney as we believe that we can continue to empower businesses with valuable knowledge and strategies to continue to grow and prosper their businesses.
If you would like to be included on our database for further details please email us on info@apanetwork and give us your full name and phone number as well as your email address.
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APJ 58
Retail & Professional Aromatherapy Body Treatment Range PLUS… • Gift Packs • Travel Packs • Hotel Amenities
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Reaching North Queensland with Dynamic Education
This year APAN's first New Horizons regional Conference and Expo was staged at the Mercure Hotel in Townsville, Queensland on May 27th.
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The theme “Winning Against the Odds” was very indicative of lectures presented. Feedback from the region stressed that they were very keen to gain business strategies as a priority, and so the key focus was on topics to help businesses gain momentum and new tools on how to grow their businesses.
offered great information to eager salon owners who came from the region as well as from other States s u c h a s WA , S o u t h A u s t r a l i a , Vi c t o r i a , Northern Territory and NSW.
NEW HORIZON CONFERENCE
NEW BUSINESS TOOLS WORKSHOP To kick start the event the NEW BUSINESS TOOLS was staged from 1-5pm on Saturday 26th May. Presented by IT expert Mark Viney, this was an in-depth hands-on intensive workshop for business owners on the latest cost-effective tools to help simplify how salon owners could conduct their businesses and achieve their goals smoothly and more efficiently. This workshop was sold out and was very successful as it
Sunday, the Conference was opened by Tina Viney who presented the latest information on global trends and industry research. This gave the industry clear insight on current and upcoming changes they need to prepare for. Always immaculate and professional Terry Everitt was once again the event's MC who kept speakers on their toes with their timing, while entertaining the delegates with his sense of humour. As this year's theme was very business focused, each session seemed to perfectly dovetail into the next. The common business theme of all the speakers seemed to strongly reinforce the business strategies presented, which were greatly appreciated and well received by all who attended. Sessions included experienced spa expert Tess Walls, who presented information on leading growth strategies on successful spas and salons. Having experience in the salon and spa industry as a trainer and educator, Tess discussed new strategies that would optimise a business's position in today's market.
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APJ 60
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Caroline Nelson's main focus was on the issue of profitability for spa and salon businesses, which was most welcomed by all, while solicitor Michael Bishop from APAN's law firm Pointon Partners addressed the issue of changes to Fair Work and salons' obligations. Salon owners were able to catch up with him after his lecture on a oneon-one at his stand to discuss staffing concerns.
NEW HORIZONS EXPO The event was also supported by approximately 20 supply companies in a boutique style expo and delegates received the opportunity to also gain access to some great deals with quality products and equipment, while enjoying a more intimate and dynamic environment to network and build relationships with various industry stakeholders.
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Gay Wardle shared to great trade secrets on what makes a salon successful in this volatile market. As always she was well received by all who recognise her first-hand expertise. In the tradition of these events delegates had the opportunity to also hear from a panel of colleagues from various States on what is working for them works in this current financial climate. Hearing directly from salon and spa managers was appreciated by delegates as they got to hear views and experiences from a coal faced perspective.
If you would like to be included on the mailing list for these events please contact APAN by giving us your full name, phone number and email address so that we can include you on our Conference database. Alternatively check for information in this journal for future events. Your future may depend on it.
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APJ 62
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Thalazur Ouistreham – Normandy Where MODERN TRANQUILLITY redeems the Haunting Memories of War By Tina Viney
Call me inquisitive, but I am never content with the surface phenomenon – whether it is people, regions, a spa or salon, I always like to explore beyond the mere veneer, to investigate the deeper strata in order to understand their roots, origin and how they think or operate in the hope of discovering what is uniquely different and individual about the object of my study. In July this year I visited France – two days in Paris and then off to Normandy for a family reunion. While there I took the opportunity to also explore the best that the region had to offer by way of spas. My cousin, Damien H. Dimitriou, who is also an astute businessman and has a keen eye for quality, organised for me to visit one of the most exclusive spa resorts in the region, Thalazur Ouistreham, which was an excellent choice. Later in this article we will take a closer look at what makes this wonderful spa resort noteworthy as we explore the services they offer and their competitive advantage. However, before I share this information with you, allow me first to give you a snapshot of something equally amazing – the fascinating beauty and the incredible historical treasures of this truly unique region, which are definitely worth the detour. 㤵 㜵
NORMANDY As a region Normandy (Normandie in French) is located in northern France along the English Channel between Picardy on the east and Brittany on the West, it has a population of approximately 3.45 million people, which is 5.5% of the French population.
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OLD HISTORY Equally interesting, however, is Normandy's ancient history. The name of Normandy is derived from the settlement of the territory by Vikings (Northmen) from the ninth century, and confirmed by treaty in the 10th century. For a century and a half following the Norman Conquest of England in 1066, Normandy and England were linked by Norman and Frankish rulers. Normandy was part of ancient Gaul. Conquered by Julius Caesar in the first century BC, the area was incorporated into the Roman province of Lugdunensis in 27 BC. The Franks overran the area during the fifth century. Beginning in the nineth century, Normans repeatedly raided the coast and began to settle there. In 911 the Normans were granted the area by the French king Charles III. Their leader, Rollo, was recognised as the first Duke of Normandy. The duchy became extremely powerful, and, in 1066, Duke William conquered England, being crowned there as William I, also commonly known as William the Conqueror. On William's death, succession disputes among his sons divided Normandy and England, but the English king Henry I obtained Normandy in 1106. Much of this history is beautifully depicted in the famous Bayeux Tapestry – a huge stretch of wall cloth 70 metres long that can be viewed at the Bayeux Museum in Normandy. This amazing continuous piece of fabric manages to capture the history – activities, traditions and wars of an era, through colourful and carefully crafted hand-stitched embroidery. It is a truly amazing piece of work to see.
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The region combines 580 kilometres of winding coastline, including the dramatically evocative World War II landing beaches, which are noteworthy as this is where the most historically significant events occurred that marked the beginning of the end of Word War II.
Moving forward to the 20th Century and a quick look at modern-day history, Normandy is renowned as the strategic location where the Allied forces united their efforts to attack the German invasion. This took place on D-day, or Debarkation Day.
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APJ 64
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Early in the morning of June 6th 1944 two American Airborne Divisions and one British (including Australians) were dropped behind enemy lines. Later, the Allied forces stormed the beaches along the Normandy coast. They were code-named: Gold, Sword, Juno, Utah and Omaha.
The Canadians assaulted Juno beach, and encountered German resistance. The British attacked Gold and Sword beaches and the Americans assaulted Utah beach where they also met great resistance. But, Omaha was a horror story. The men ran across the huge beach with nowhere to run or hide and were shot down. When they reached the end of the beach they were stuck along the cliffs for hours. It was said that when the battle was over that the waves literally ran red with blood.
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While victory was won that eventually led to the end of the war, these events sadly were not without human casualties. The Allied casualties alone are estimated at approximately 10,000 on D-Day alone, although the exact number is unknown. Young men – the vast majority in their late teens and early 20s, lost their lives fighting for freedom from Hitler's tyranny and the Third Reich. It was a moving experience to quietly walk through the perfectly manicured memorial gardens. Many grave plaques were marked with the statement “Name known only to God”, which brought home the sobering truth of the futility of war and the devastation it brings to the loss of valuable human life. Visiting the Caen War Memorial was also very moving. Photographs, posters, artifacts and film clips vividly brought to life the sobering events of 1944 with graphic details. If you ever visit Normandy the Caen War Memorial is a worthwhile pilgrimage you should take as it will help you appreciate the importance and responsibility we have to foster peace among nations.
THE LAND AND ITS BEAUTY 㤵
While the memories of the war were very sobering, today Normandy also offers its guests a very different experience. Throughout the region, historical locations such as Caen, Bayeux and Rouen offer an opportunity to experience a fusion of the old and the new.
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Weaving throughout the regions you will find a verdant interior of lush farmland, where cows graze contently through the magnificent green fields. The region is also renowned for its linen, and its gastronomic delights from fine cheeses, apples, pastries, wine, excellent cider and the renowned Calvados French Apple Brandy. If you love Camembert cheese, then you are in heaven!
Meandering through this majestic, lush, green landscape you will also discover bustling market towns with quaint boutiques showcasing their cotton and linen fashion as well as their beautifully embroidered tapestries. Disbursed between these delightful little boutiques you will also find lovely little restaurants, patisseries and coffee shops that offer a fine food experience in a carefully preserved quaint environment that fuses old architecture characteristic of the regions with a modern twist. As you can see this amazing region is steeped in history with so much to see, and this is only a very small sample of what is available. Another interesting town in the region is Le Havre – a thriving industrial and commercial centre and the second largest port in
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France. Both William the Conqueror and Joan of Arc died in this town, which Victor Hugo called "the city of a hundred spires". Le Havre is home to many museums as well as the Gothic Cathedral of NotreDame de Grace, immortalised by French Impressionist Claude Monet. Normandy is a truly amazing destination with a plethora of incredible array of historical treasures to explore, but let's now take a look at our spa.
Bella Hotel, which also provides a centrally appointed restaurant, meeting rooms, and of course the famous Thalazur thalassotherapy institute. These amenities make it the ideal location for a wellbeing experience in an exclusive marine environment. The relaxed and spacious settings lend themselves to a welcoming feeling that promises quality relaxation, relief from stress and the multi-faceted benefits of mineral-rich elements of their marine-based treatments.
THALAZUR OUISTREHAM Accompanied by Damien as my capable interpreter we were met at Thalazur Ouistreham by the managing director, Monsieur Philippe Rio, who after warmly greeting us and gave us special coverings for our shoes prior to taking us through a guided tour of the spa.
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Recently refurbished to reflect the region's tones of sandy beige and pure white, the spa is spacious and immaculately presented with the presence of water everywhere, which is its central theme – seawater being pivotal to most of their treatments. Thalazur Ouistreham is one of a series of six resort spas that are part of a chain of spas throughout France – Thalazur Ouistreham being located in Normandy, just a two-hour drive from Paris. Well known as a prime destination for rest, relaxation and rejuvenation, it boasts 89 airconditioned rooms through the adjoining Riva
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Monsieur Philippe Rio and Tina Viney
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Thalazur uses Thalgo products for t h e i r s k i n t r e a t m e n t s . To complement this line, Thalazur has also introduced its own niche skincare brand made exclusively for them with natural and botanical ingredients in line with their philosophy. Additionally they have a special treatment range specifically for hair.
WATER TREATMENTS
State-of-the-art equipment guarantees the very best delivery in treatment outcomes. For example, they offer nine different waterbased treatments that include: AFFUSION SHOWER – This is similar to a Vichy that releases a fine rain of seawater to induce a soothing and relaxing state to the guest. JET SHOWER – These are adjustable jets directed by a hydrotherapy specialist over the whole body and directed at specific treatment areas such as the lymphatic nodes to stimulate circulation and relax the muscles for deep relaxation and stress relief. UNDERWATER SHOWER – This treatment is performed in the bath and combines the benefits of warm seawater and massage to induce an analgesic and relaxing effect. WHIRLPOOL BATH – Incorporates air and warm-water pressure the whirlpool bath promotes tissue oxygenation and imparts an overall feeling of wellbeing. WATER MASSAGE – This is what we would classify as a hydrotherapy bath , with the various jets strategically positioned to stimulate lymphatic flow and improve circulation. HYDRO LEGS – Is a unique leg and calf treatment that utilises two containers filled with water with a 10-degree Celsius difference in temperature. This temperature difference has been proven to have the effect of relieving among other things circulatory problems and the sensation of heavy legs. UNDERWATER JET-SPRAY – This is an underwater jet massage, followed by simple exercises, that helps improve flexibility and tones the tissues. HYDROJET – The client lies on their back on a hot-water mattress, while undulated movements from within the mattress deliver a wholebody massage, inducing relaxation and improving lymphatic and blood flow. BODY SCRUB – A complete body scrub is recommended as a
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preliminary treatment to remove dead skin cells and enhance the penetration of trace elements and mineral from the seawater and other nutrients from treatment products.
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BODY MASSAGE
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Prior to a body treatment, clients complete a comprehensive assessment form where they present any medical conditions and
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concerns. Thalazur also has an inhouse doctor six days a week who can examine clients and issue a medical certificate prior to any treatments that warrants it, if there is any medical concerns. While the spa does not specifically treat medical conditions, the treatments available can be selected to relieve aches and pains, stiffness, alleviate stress and tension, improve lymphatic drainage and blood circulation, induce sleep and improve skin conditions and an overall feeling of wellbeing.
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When it comes to massage Thalazur offers 10 different treatment options, from the classic relaxation massage to more specialised forms of massage, such as lymphatic drainage, Ayurvedic, Shiatsu, Korean, Nuad Bo Lann (Thai massage) and even Tuina, an energetic Chinese massage carried out on the principles of acupuncture.
BODY WRAPS Guest have a choice of three popular body-wraps Marine Mud body mask, Seaweed Wraps, as well as a very refreshing Cooling Wrap, which is excellent for improving venous circulation and imparting a feeling of lightness and coolness to the legs.
FACIAL AND SPECIALTY TREATMENTS Of course, a variety of facial treatments are available to improve the skin and enhance hydration levels and skin renewal. Additionally, they also offer special water, movement and massage treatment designed specifically for pregnant women to teach mother and baby how to relax.
Exercise and physical activity classes are also available to improve flexibility, body tone and weight loss.
COMPETITIVE ADVANTAGE At the beginning of the article I told you that I would identify this spa’s competitive advantage and here it is. While other spas may offer similar treatments utilising hydrotherapy through the use of marine seaweed, marine salts and concentrates that are reconstituted when they are added to water, Thalazur utilises water direct from the depths of the ocean, which is pumped into their facilities and used within every one of their treatments. Their swimming pool, hydrotherapy baths, body wraps and body treatments use natural mineral-rich seawater that is drawn daily from the local sea. This is an
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amazing service that is truly unique to this establishment. While the ocean is nearby and guests have the opportunity to go swimming, the spa provides a serene and hygienic environment that offers the best of technology as well as nature through the amazing mineral-rich medium of seawater. In this controlled environment guests can comfortably bathe for long periods of time, enjoying the therapeutic properties of seawater minerals and nutrients without the dangers and free-radical damage of excessive sun exposure.
Detailed composition of seawater 㤵
at 3.5% salinity While seawater may only have minute concentration of minerals and trace elements, the synergy of its composition offers great health benefits and supports the human body's wellbeing.
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THE CURATIVE POWERS OF THALASSOTHERAPY
So why is thalassotherapy gaining such great popularity and what benefits does it offer? We know that the human body is composed of approximately 65% water and interestingly, diluted seawater contains almost the same concentration of minerals and trace elements as blood plasma. This correlation has led to ongoing studies of how the body can benefit from seawater. While the curative powers of the ocean have been touted for centuries, there are those who are still cynical about its health benefits as they consider water impermeable through human skin. This may be true, but it's not the water but the minerals that are able to penetrate the skin, and studies now confirm how seawater benefits the body.
THE BENEFITS While the skin is impermeable to water, systematic immersions in seawater heated to human-body temperature result in an osmotic phenomenon, enabling trace minerals and ions to penetrate through the skin into the body. More specifically, thalassotherapy renews the body's reserves of magnesium, potassium, iodine, calcium and some 53 other elements naturally found in the blood, and which are easily depleted by stress, poor diet and pollution. Even though thalassotherapy is relatively new in the modern era, the idea of treating illnesses with seawater is not. As far back as 414 BC Euripides wrote that "the sea cures all human ailments". What makes thalassotherapy different from traditional marine medicine is that it not only focuses on ailments such as rheumatism and poor circulation, but also targets the most common affliction to be found today in developed countries: stress. The most urgently needed cure today is the remise en forme, or anti-stress cure. Given the long history of marine medicine, it's surprising that research on the medical benefits of thalassotherapy is considered inconclusive. The French Government, as a result, does not cover thalassotherapy treatments under its state medical insurance policy. France is the world's main thalassotherapy hub; there are also thalassotherapy spas in Spain, Portugal, Belgium, Greece, and Cyprus, as well as Morocco and Tunisia.
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"Unlike mineral-water spa treatments, which were included in the original coverage of the French Government medical system, thalassotherapy is not," states Jacques Zartarian, one of the leading spa authorities in France. “It's ironic,” he continues, “since in most instances thalassotherapy produces much more dramatic results than traditional mineral-water cures. But the boom in thalassotherapy has been recent, and the French Government is reluctant to extend eligibility to thalassotherapy when its healthcare budget is already ballooning out of control."
Some benefits of thalassotherapy have already been proven. It can, for instance: ! Increase respiratory capacity. Immersing the body in seawater (at a depth of one metre and 30 centimetres, and according to the French,it will effectively equalise internal body
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Note: ppm= parts per million = mg/litre = 0.001g/kg. source: Karl K Turekian: Oceans. 1968. Prentice-Hall By Dr J Floor Anthoni (2000, 2006) www.seafriends.org.nz/oceano/seawater.htm
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seawater showers are less painful than those administered to dry skin. Improve cardiovascular function. Because body-weight is displaced in seawater, it's easier to intensify physical exertion without straining the heart. Improve muscular contraction. To maintain mobility, the 600-plus muscles in the body need to be exercised regularly. Slow movement in seawater increases circulation to the muscles by a factor of 10. Relieved of body-weight, the muscles relax, making exercise easier and more effective.
Replenish depleted calcium and phosphorus in the bones. Many studies have shown that two of
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the elements most easily absorbed by the human body during seawater therapy are calcium and phosphorus, which is why thalassotherapy is often prescribed for people suffering from osteoporosis. In addition to the treatments aimed at restoring "physical re-equilibrium," which are achieved through seaweed baths and underwater showers, the most common thalassotherapy cures, however, are those designed to help people lose weight or stop smoking; combat fatigue, rheumatism and dermatological problems; and deal with menopause. Other specialised treatments include those known as "mother and child", for women who have recently given birth; special treatments aimed at reducing back pain; chronic pain, to reduce chronic discomfort from migraines, muscular disorders and other recurring sources of physical pain and "heavy legs".
IN CONCLUSION Further discussion with Monsieur Philippe Rio confirmed that despite the financial crisis it is evident that forwardthinking establishments such as Thalazur are able to survive by focusing on not just the tourist market, but more importantly local and regional clientele. They ensure this by offering treatments that are wholesome and beneficial, going beyond the mere pleasure of relaxation and pampering to offer something more substantial and of value to the health of the human body that supports the ongoing wellbeing of their guests. With a comprehensive vision for continued expansion Thalazur is constantly striving and evolving to deliver relevant and valuable treatments to a constantly stressed, yet discerning clientele that is seeking real solutions for better health and optimised wellbeing. My visit to the wonderful region of Normandy was an enriching and rewarding experience not only on a personal, but also on a professional level.
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pressure and external pressure on the body from the surrounding water. This allows increased air volume in the thoracic cavity, and consequently more mobility for the diaphragm, which leads to an increase in respiration and red-blood-cell count by about 10 per cent. Accelerate the elimination of toxins. Submerged in seawater, the body is subject to a level of pressure many times more powerful than that of air. Movement made underwater increases the body's natural drainage, which leads to improved lymphatic drainage. Improve circulation. Seawater pressure on the body increases capillary circulation and relaxes muscles, thus massages during
Thalazur Ouistreham Av. du Commandant Kieffer, 14150 OUISTREHAM Tél. :+33 231 96 40 40 Fax. :+33 231 96 45 45 Email : inforeservation@thalazur.fr Website: http://ouistreham.thalazur.fr/
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REFERENCE: 100 Best Spas of the World (Globe Pequot Press). Alexander Lobrano Taking the Plunge http://www.oceanplasma.org (academic site) Seawater as blood plasma substitute (Nexus Article)
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NUTRIGEMONICS Taking Nutritional Medicine to the next level Dr Christine Houghton As new research comes to light there are certain aspects of Nutritional M edicine that can be implemented into our protocols, especially when it comes to the use of food as a skin improvement anti-ageing or disease preventative tool. Nutrigenomics is a relatively new concept that is backed by a credible body of scientific research that is validating its potential to change the way we look at ageing and disease prevention in a more rapid and efficient way. In this article Dr Houghton presents some amazing new information that will update you on how Nutrigenomics offers the key to effective upregulating of gene expression for disease prevention, better health and longevity.
for our cells' own antioxidant enzymes, we can increase our antioxidant reserves literally millions of times more effectively than we can by consuming typical antioxidant supplements. The word nutrigenomics means “food talking to your genes”. Every mouthful of food we consume initiates a complex “conversation” with the DNA in our cells – conversations that determine whether the protective or diseased-promoting cellular switches are activated.
UNRAVELLING OUR DNA SEQUENCE One of this decade's most remarkable achievements must surely be the mapping of the entire human genome. The human genome is the term used to describe the long cabled strands of human DNA, which are assembled into groups of genes and located on 23 pairs of chromosomes deep inside our cells. In 2003, the mapping of the entire sequence of human DNA was completed. Described as a “unique
Over the past half century Nutritional Medicine has contributed enormously to our understanding why we get sick. Equally, it has provided us with the strategies to prevent disease and promote a state of wellness, without primary reliance on drugs and surgery. But it's now time to take this knowledge to a new level of understanding as we learn how to take control of our health. 㤵 㜵
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Nutrigenomics is an emerging discipline that adds a “multiplier effect” to the benefits we have typically seen from Nutritional and Botanical medicine. Nutrigenomics identifies food-derived bioactive compounds that have the greatest potential to “switch on” protective genes within our cells and those that can “switch off” the inflammation and disease-promoting genes. Knowing how these cellular “switches” work enables us to reactivate these protective genes, which tend to become “lazy” as we age. When we can up-regulate genes such as those, which carry the code
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the mistake can have a significant effect. These mistakes are actually gene variations of mutations and are often described as SNPs (pronounced snips). The Human Genome Project showed that there are about 1.4 million DNA locations where these SNPs can occur. This is how cancer can occur. Healthy cells make a protective gene known as the p53 suppressor gene and its job is to suppress the cancer process. However, early in the development of some types of cancer, the p53 gene gets “switched off” because a “spelling mistake” has been made in the DNA. As a result, the healthy cells lose some of their normal ability to deal with the rogue cancer cells.
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BEQUEATHED BY MUM AND DAD Scientists have known for decades that some people have diseases that appear to run in families because they have inherited one or more faulty genes, but what is now coming to light is that there are whole hosts of less obvious weaknesses thiat are inherited. These weaknesses in cellular function may include limited ability to detoxify waste materials in human cells, or a limited ability to produce the protective antioxidant enzymes our cells need to defend themselves. Some genes are needed to repair our DNA if it gets damaged, so that if these genes are “switched off” or “turned down”, long-term damage to cells is more likely.
WHAT DOES THIS MEAN TO EACH INDIVIDUAL?
blueprint” of an individual, it contains every instruction your cells need for your body to grow, function normally, and repair itself. Humans have about 25,000 distinct genes in each cell. Collectively, these genes are like a huge library, containing every possible piece of information about each individual person.
If there are too many defective genes, cells are less likely to function efficiently and disease is more likely to develop. What we don't necessarily know is what type of disease may occur because other genes determine where the greatest weaknesses lie. All we can say is that the cells are less able to defend themselves from harmful free radicals or toxic assaults. This tells us why some people are more prone to certain disease-promoting defects such as inflammatory or infectious diseases, while others may age prematurely.
WE ARE MORE THE SAME THAN DIFFERENT
When we look around at our fellow humans, we see what we think are enormous differences within us. Some of us are tall, others are short. Some people have dark skin, others have fair. Some people can run fast, and others can't – and so on. Yet surprisingly, humans have 99.9% of their DNA in common. This means that all the differences between each individual are coded into just 0.1% of the total. Furthermore, these seemingly miniscule variations can have profound effects on our health and wellbeing.
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WHEN YOUR DNA MAKES “SPELLING MISTAKES” Human bodies are constantly breaking down old cells and replacing them with new ones. As our cells regularly replace themselves, they copy their DNA so that the new cells contain an identical copy of the original DNA. However, sometimes when our cells divide, mistakes are made – a bit like spelling mistakes in the DNA code. Sometimes these mistakes make no difference, but if the gene plays a critical role,
IS THERE ANY GOOD NEWS? In fact, there is extremely good news! What is really exciting about the ongoing research is that the disease-promoting processes in most instances can be modified – even in individuals with abnormal genes. This is where Nutrigenomics steps in, because we now know how certain food-derived molecules can activate gene switches. The way in which a gene switch works is shown in Figure 1 above. A bioactive compound, usually found in a plant, can activate certain molecular “switches” within the cell. That switch in turn targets the DNA in certain genes in that cell so that the genes then activate the cell's internal “machinery”, producing hundreds of protective compounds
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of the sulforaphane, a carefully processed broccoli sprout powder is likely to be a more reliable way of achieving desired benefits.
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Sulforaphane is currently the subject of ongoing research. However, thus far it has been shown to be the most potent activator of major cellular detoxification enzymes. It also significantly increases the production of one of the cell's own antioxidant compounds – Glutathione.
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WHAT OTHER FOODS HAVE A NUTRIGENOMIC EFFECT?
which the cell uses to defend itself.
SWITCHING ON THE CELL'S OWN DEFENCES One of the most important of these protective switches is know to biochemists as Nrf2. The bioactive compounds in broccoli are know to be the most powerful activators of Nrf2 and Nrf2 switches on at least 200 known protective genes. It is these genes which contain the Code the cell needs to make its own protective compounds. Among these are potent antioxidant compounds, literally millions of times more powerful than the antioxidants we have been accustomed to taking as supplements.
THE POWER OF NUTRIGENOMIC COMPOUNDS VS ANTIOXIDANTS The most common antioxidant supplements are those which include vitamin antioxidants such as vitamin C, vitamin E and beta-carotene, as well as those from green tea, olives, red wine, blueberries, pomegranates, acai berries and so on. The latter are often described as super foods and are all classified as polyphenols.
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However, these polyphenols are such large molecules that very few of them actually get into the cells. Scientists now say that polyphenols display poor bioavailability1. Newer research now shows that the antioxidant effect of the polyphenols occurs mostly in the digestive tract and not within the cells2. Unfortunately, many of the studies used to promote the polyphenols as supplements have been done in test tubes or in-vitro studies by using large doses of the of the substance in animal studies. One of the newcomers to fit into this category is resveratrol, found in grape skin or red wine3. Where one molecule from any of the antioxidant vitamins or super foods just mentioned can quench or neutralise one damaging free radial, the cell's own antioxidant enzymes can quench literally millions of free radicals per minute. This is why Nutrigenomics now takes our understanding to a whole new level. If antioxidant benefit is needed in the cell, the most effective way to achieve it is to use a nutrigenomic substance capable of potently activating the cell's internal defence systems. Enter sulporaphane (pronounced Sul-4-a-Fane). This is the name of a potent bioactive compound derived from broccoli. Interestingly, the young broccoli sprout contains about 20-30 times more sulforaphane than the mature vegetable, and because cooking destroys the activity
It is likely that as the research continues, scientists will discover a whole host of bioactive plant molecules with nutrigenomic effects. Another common food that has been used to extract a potent nutrigenomic compound is the rock melon, or cantaloupe. French scientists developed a method to extract and protect a compound that nutrigenomically activates the cell's own antioxidant enzymes, the most important of which is known as superoxide dismutase. This is the cell's primary antioxidant enzyme, being able to quench millions of free radicals per minute. To put this into perspective, a vitamin C molecule is capable of quenching only one single free radical.
WHERE TO FROM HERE? Because Nutrigenomics is about the way in which food talks to our genes, the food we choose becomes much more than a way of satisfying the appetite or a source of vitamins, minerals and so on. Our food supply is literally a huge library of information in constant conversation with the DNA in our cells. Whether our DNA hears messages to enable it to protect our cells or whether it is assaulted by chemical messages from poor food choices really depends on us, because after all, we are the custodians of our own food choices. So the responsibility to be healthy really rests with us as individuals and much less on our doctor or health professional, whose help is so often sought long after we have already upset the delicate balance of switches governing the expression of our genes.
REFERENCES: 1. Manach, C,; Scalbert, A.; Morand, C.; Remesy, C.; Jamenez, L. Polyphenols; Food sources and bioavailability. Am. J. Clin. Nutr. 2004, 79, 727, 747 2. Kanner, J; Lapidot, T. The Stomach as a Bioreactor: dietary lipid peroxidation in the gastric fluid and the Effects of Plant-derived Antioxidants. Free Radical Biology & Medicine, Vol. 31, No. 11, pp, 1388-1395, 2001. 3. Bauer, JA et al. Resveratrol improves health and survival of mice on a high-calorie diet. Nature, Vol 444, 16 November, 2006; 337342.
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Christine Houghton BSc (Biochem) Grad.Dip Hum.Nutr.PhD.Cand. is a Nutritional Biochemist with over 30 years' experience as a private practice clinician in Nutritional Medicine. Her particular interest is focused on Nutrigenomics, a strategy for identifying natural compounds capable of upregulating the genes that cells use to prevent disease-promoting processes. Christine is also the author of “Switched On – Harnessing the Power of Nutrigenomics to Enhance Health”. For more information visit www.cell-logic.com.au
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SWITCHED ON Harnessing the Power of Nutrigenomics to Optimise Your Health By Christine Houghton B.Sc (Biochem.) Grad.Dip.Hum.Nurt.R.Nutr.PhD.Cand. For most of us, every cell of the human body has all the information it needs to remain healthy and this information is coded with the DNA of every gene in every cell. Once we learn how to “tap into” this code and better understand how to send it the signals it needs, all sorts of distressing symptoms may disappear. This may be a simple as feeling less tired, experiencing fewer aches and pains, better digestion, a better mood – sometimes just a sense of “feeling better”. Although Nutrigenomics may also use plants as sources of medicine it is not a branch of any traditional medicine we have ever known. Instead, Nutrigenomics is firmly anchored in modern science, yet is simple enough that we can all take advantage of its principles. Although it sits on a foundation of Nutrition Science, the real power of Nutrigenomics lies in the identification and application of powerful food-derived biomolecules capable of “switching on” certain genes associated with cellular health. 㤵 㜵
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In her book Switched on – Harnessing the power of Nutrigenomics to Optimise Your Health Dr Christine Houghton explores the ground-breaking world of NUTRIGENOMICS and discusses how this new paradigm is optimising healthcare. She identifies powerful food-derived compounds capable of “switching on” or “switching off” our DNA as required by our cells. Learn how to utilise the most powerful known Nutrigenomic compounds responsible for protecting your cells and optimising their function, resulting in enhanced wellbeing and healthier ageing.
Dr Christine Houghton has over 30 years' experience in private-practice in Nutritional Medicine and she is now a Research Biochemist investigating bioactive plant compounds with significant clinical potential. Her particular interest is focused specifically on Nutrigenomics and determining how natural compounds are capable of up-regulating the genes that cells use to prevent disease-promoting processes. In this book Dr Houghton examines the compound Sulforaphane and explores its unique ability in effectively supporting cellular defence and detoxification due to its high bioavailability of around 80%. Furthermore, she examines what makes Sulforaphane even more amazing is its ability to activate the cellular “switch” Nrf2, which controls DNA and 200 or so genes related to the cells’ defence system. Switched on – Harnessing the power of Nutrigenomics to Optimise Your Health is a very easy book to read as Dr Houghton explains the mechanisms of cell defence and detoxification. She methodically explores various theories and presents new scientific data to support or disprove them.
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Switched on – Harnessing the power of Nutrigenomics to Optimise Your Health is available for purchase for just $6.95 from Cell-Logic Pty Ltd Ph: 07 3041 4091. You can also visit www.cell-logic.com.au for further details.
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Feedback on Results is the Breakfast of Champions By Phillip Fernandez (Human Strategist) It is interesting to note that feedback on any issue is usually taken in a more negative mode versus a positive one. When we are usually called by the boss to have a talk we automatically feel that there must be a problem or that we did something wrong. Well the reason for this thinking pattern is due to how the education system and the learning institutes themselves viewed feedback. If we can recall in most cases of being asked to see the principal of a school and to see a teacher formally is to receive negative feedback on lack of performance, non-acceptable behaviour or not meeting our KPIs.
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salons and skincare companies that adopt this mindset will start to see positive results in the performance of their staff and hence their businesses as well. During staff appraisals, feedback is usually given along with discussion on the positives and the negatives of the individual being appraised. This Performance Management tool should not be taken lightly and is probably one of the most critical areas in staff motivation and consistency of performance.
In most corporations, and even small to medium businesses, feedback given to employees is usually a painful process and one that is equally not enjoyed by both the giver and the receiver. However, if used as a tool to drive peak performance and productivity, by addressing good behaviour or achievements, as well as identifying areas of improvements, then it will be looked at in a much more congenial manner.
The problem is that only 20% of businesses do this effectively and these are the same 20% that are contributing to 80% of the national turnover in the spa, beauty and skincare business. These are also the ones that are retaining their staff longer and also seem to be investing in the training and development of their staff, while also scoring high in the care factor. You will also find that these businesses are also the ones that empower their staff to take ownership of their role and their actions – to be accountable and make mistakes, but see failure as an opportunity to do better.
I personally know that positive, constructive feedback delivered in a fair and supportive way will not only create amazing change of behaviour in employees, but also bring out excellence in them. Creating an expectation that “There is no failure, only feedback” creates a paradigm shift in our thinking process, and the beauty
The reason for the above statistics exemplifies the Pareto principle (80/20 rule). However, there are fears and anxieties on both sides of the appraisal process – in the giving and the receiving of the appraisal. This is a learnt HR management skill, and if not executed correctly could end up in a miscommunication and an incorrectly interpreted disaster.
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HERE ARE THE RULES OF GIVING GOOD, CONSTRUCTIVE AND FAIR FEEDBACK:
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Remember that 55% of communication is in your physiology (non-verbal communication) and 38% is in your voice tone. So how we think will govern our physiology that is seen and reflected by the staff we are appraising, and how you say it will set the ambience and feelings that you will be communicated to them. Your chosen words are also important, but only represent 7% of the communication process. Catch them doing something right. Always start with a positive. Make a point of addressing good behaviour or performance. This shows that you still value the employee and that this is not personal, but just to address an area of improvement. Remember, always deal with the “facts” and not with “assumptions” when it comes to addressing negative behaviour or not achieving their KPIs. This is critical, as incorrect information can lead to a negative outcome. Always reprimand the deed and not the doer. This way we are saying that they are still a valued employee, but they need to change the unwanted behaviour or their attitude to improve their current status or performance.
So whenever you have to give feedback, remember that you are there to bring out the best in your employee, and if you receiving feedback, then enjoy your breakfast – just like an Olympic champion.
A perfect example is the recent Olympic Games in London. Most of us love watching the incredible performance of these amazing athletes that seem to possess superhuman strength, speed and breathtaking skills. Have we stopped to ask ourselves how did they get to where they are now? Well apart from their genetic make-up, natural ability, positiveness and determination to be the best, they all also needed one thing to know how much they need to train, how high they need to jump or how fast they need to run. This comes in the form of “feedback” by their trainers and coaches.
Phillip Fernandez, Human Strategist & Director of Wizard Business Consulting, is a business coach, NLP Trainer, article writer and keynote speaker. You can contact him on the above topic or any people performance-related issues. E: phillip@businesswizards.com.au W: www.businesswizards.com.au Mobile: 0402 213 813 Office: 1300 747 389.
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Until an athlete knows the performance gap that will get their desired outcome, they have nothing to benchmark their performance that will allow them to produce winning results.
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HERE ARE SOME OTHER IMPORTANT THINGS TO REMEMBER:
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Also make sure that there is a balance in the feedback discussion as you need to ensure that the individual being appraised does understand the meaning of the feedback, is very clear on the message and leaves in a positive frame of mind. For a good appraisal system to work, it needs to be consistent. A formal Staff Appraisal program should be done at least once per quarter, with an annual one in which the KPI objectives and expectations are set for the year ahead and used as the benchmark when doing the quarterly appraisals. Always end the conversation on a high by touching on a good trait or other positives about the individual being appraised.
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2. The famous BOTO CAVIAR Serum the perfect partner to M+FLUID that contains Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 with its Botox-like effect, Acacia collagen, extracted from the Acacia Senegal tree that softens and restores collagen integrity in the skin, mineral-rich Caviar to stimulate collagen. This powerful marine ingredient helps enhance the skin's cellular immunity. Sodium Hyaluronate is also included to raise hydration levels on and within the skin.
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WHY WAS JYUNKA INTRODUCED TO AUSTRALIA? Having studied the value and benefit of L-ascorbic acid through research conducted by Dr Sheldon Pinnell from the Duke University, Hassan Said, the current importer of Jyunka, was on a quest to find a high-performing product for his wife who owned and ran a successful salon in Melbourne. Having accessed some of the leading cosmeceuticals and vitamin C serums available through several professional skincare companies in Australia, Hassan still felt that there was room for improvement and continued to look for a product that could outperform what was currently available
The birth of the Elixir or Youth By Tina Viney Some of the best discoveries and innovations have often been birthed out of frustration or necessity. In fact, there is a saying that necessity is the mother of invention, and so it was for the development of the skin innovation JYUNKA.
Recently I caught up with Jennifer Leng from Singapore who was visiting Australia as the International Trainer for JYUNKA skincare. While she was bubbly and effervescent, I could not get over how amazing her skin looked – firm, glowing, clear and vibrant, and not a wrinkle in sight despite her mature age. What amazed me the most however, was how beautiful her skin looked in a natural and healthy sort of way. With almost no makeup she was able to instantly and effectively reflect the kind of results that the product could deliver without any fillers or injectables, making her the perfect ambassador for her product.
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JUYNKA is a small niche skincare range with only a handful of products. The range is predominantly renowned for its two key serums that are considered supremely superior market leaders. These are:
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1. M+FLUID with 15% L-ascorbic Acid introduced through a
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highly effective trans-epidermal delivery system.
on the market. That is when he came across Jyunka. On close examination he was impressed with the science behind the product. As Jyunka was not yet available in Australia he was asked to trial it at their salon for 12 months, and give the company feedback.
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Jyunka use very high grade quality ingredients, however their competitive advantage was their advanced, unique and patented method of trans-epidermal delivery system based on nanotechnology called QU-SOME. In this highly effective carrier clinical-strength vitamin C could be successfully transported into the deeper layers of the epidermis to stimulate cell regeneration and the production of collagen and elastin – the essential proteins that support the skin's integrity and rejuvenation.
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Convinced that this product had impressive scientific validation Hassan was asked and accepted to trial the product in their salon for 12 months. The results were quite remarkable, and within the 12-month period that the product was on trial all their clients who were using it where committed to continue to use it due to the results they were experiencing. Following that amazing outcome Jyunka approached Hassan to because the Australian distributor for the product in Australia. “The other advantage of introducing Jyunka into the salon,” Hassan said, “was that we were able to attract high quality clients because of the results and reputation of this incredible product. “We currently have government officials, and several corporate clients who can afford anything, but are loyal supporters and faithful users of Jyunka products because they can see results they were not able to achieve with other products”.
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Guaranteed Results Reduced Fine Lines, Wrinkles and Crows feet
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Sagging Skin – GONE Eye Bags – GONE Large Pores – GONE
In recent times they have perfected the formula so that it also provides a more comforting feeling on the skin despite its high LAscorbic acid content, which traditionally has a somewhat slight stinging effect when used. The new formula is a smooth, gel-like serum that glides comfortably on the skin leaving it feeling calm, yet rejuvenated.
Pimples and Acne – GONE
CONTINUING WITH NEW INNOVATIONS
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No Empty Promises
Despite its success Jyunka continues to research ways to ensure that their products remain market leaders and their results continue to outperform and comfortably rival the best products on the market.
As a dynamic duo Boto-Caviar Serum and M+Fluid are effectively able to transform tired, dull skin within as little as 2-3 weeks to a firmer and more radiant complexion with a noticeable lifting effect. While these serums deliver longterm cumulative benefit, they also provide immediate visible results from the very first application, thanks to the QU-SOME delivery system that quickly and effectively achieves immediate penetration and start the cell renewal process.
Oily Skin –
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Firmer, Youthful-Looking Skin – YES Radiance and Glow without Reflectors – YES Stunning, Flawless Beautiful Skin – YES One Serum, One Application. PERMANENT RESULTS – OH YES
To help achieve even better results Jyunka has also recently developed a Peeling Kit using 10% glycolic acid at a pH of 3.5. This treatment allows for the removal of dead cells preparing the skin for a more effective introduction of the serums. To rebalance the skin Jyunka Peeling Kit also contains a neutraliser with a pH of 8.5 that restores the skin's pH balance back to a healthy pH of 5.6. Jyunka is now manufactured in France and is excited at the prospects of on-going research with the goal of continuing to introduce cutting-edge product innovations specifically for the anti-ageing market sector.
These advanced formulations can raise the results of your treatments to a significantly higher level. They offer faster treatment outcomes through immediate and deep absorption. The skin will look significantly lifted, brighter, with evidence of improved hydration levels giving the complexion a more refined texture and a more youthful appearance.
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For further information and to introduce these products into your salon phone JYUNKA AUSTRALIA 03 9821 0355 or email: enquiry@jyunka.com.au, Web: www.jyunka.com.au
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JYUNKA AUSTRALIA Phone 03 9821 0355 email: enquiry@jyunka.com.au, www.jyunka.com.au
APJ 79
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In each issue of APJ we profile one of our members and allow them to present their story to the industry. In this issue we would like to introduce to you a very special lady, Claire Mason – who is happy to share with us some of her views as well as valuable tried and proven strategies that have allowed her to navigate through difficult financial times and still continue to grow. Claire is a qualified nurse and a paramedical skin therapist and the Director of her own clinic, Integrity Paramedical Skin Practitioners, which is based in Upper Mount Gravatt in Queensland. For over eight years she worked as a nurse for the Royal Australian Navy, but then decided to change her career path and went on to study beauty therapy at Beauty Skills Academy in Brisbane. Having suffered from a problematic skin condition that eventuated to acne, she became aware first-hand of the
challenges of skin problems, and thus her journey to find solutions led her to qualify and specialise in difficult skin conditions and eventually providing effective solutions as part of her chosen profession. Today Claire has also specialised in laser therapy and is a trainer and passionate educator for a well-known equipment supplier. Here she shares some of her views and opinions about the current state of the market and what strategies she has implemented that have allowed her to move forward successfully.
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Everyone in business today faces fairly much the same challenges. We are living in a constantly changing world where our clients are becoming more informed on what our industry has to offer and are becoming more demanding for exceptional value for their money. Furthermore, with the current difficult financial climate, we are finding that we cannot expect long-term client loyalty and ongoing appointments unless we are prepared to offer them exceptional and consistent results, as this is the only way that they will commit to the financial investment with us. The doors of Integrity Paramedical Skin Practitioners were opened at an extremely challenging time. Banks were more cautious about lending to new businesses; Brisbane had experienced its second “100 year flood” in 40 years, while the GFC contributed to even tougher times for businesses.
ANSWERING PERTINENT QUESTIONS Diligent evaluation of client needs, planning and careful implementation of identified strategies were essential from the beginning of our business in order for us to successfully establish it and grow. Managing cash-flow and projecting budgets still remains a daily necessity and an essential survival tool. Thankfully, I have a meticulous accountant who provides me with professional advice in relation to strategic growth, tax management and share strategies. However, more specifically, to survive and grow I have had to ask myself the following questions: 1. How do we as a business adjust and move quickly to meet the demands of our current and future clients as world consumer trends are constantly changing? 2. What are our best services that we need to offer and what strategies do we need to implement in order to effectively deliver them? 3. How do we create and consolidate the perception and delivery of real value for money to our clients and what are our potential clients willing to pay for this? 4. What is the best way to communicate with potential and existing client so we can grow and prosper in this evolving market? 5. How can we achieve all this while motivating and inspiring our team to be positive advocates of our services?
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A FLEXIBLE PLAN THAT DIRECTS YOU TO SUCCESS I was reading an article in a professional journal recently that said that in today's business environment we need to be fast, fluid and flexible. It really got me thinking about just how important my business plan really is. I feel strongly that commitment to relevant and timely planning today will help support our employees, meet our clients' needs as well as offer value to the community, while supporting economic growth within our country. It also protects our business investment and gives our company a better chance of survival. However, the business plan needs to be a tool we connect with regularly and it must be updated and flexible to accommodate changes in the industry so that it will allow it to continue to guide us in a
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relevant way as it continues to reflect the realities of the current market.
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I have established my business plan to be a great exercise for success. Adjusting my plan according to change keeps me in control and on target, because at this time it is essential to not lose the vision of where I wish to go. It also spurs creativity and helps keep me productive even when I feel exhausted. My business plan is structured in such a way that it helps identify the key areas that I need to address and it defines where we need to go. Furthermore, it helps me remain clear about identifying the needs of consumers, who is our target market, our employee structure and their positions, the areas of training they will need, as well as our strategic alliance objectives. Breaking these areas into segments to achieve smaller plans allows me not to feel overwhelmed with the overall goals. To stay focused and motivated we attend as many seminars and workshops as we can so that we can sharpen our skills and gain the necessary tools to achieve our goals. We have regular team meetings and in-house training with our staff to ensure they are empowered to give our clients the best advice through up-to-date knowledge and to enhance our clients' experience. Knowing our potential clients is critical to our business success especially if we wish to continue to grow our database. A year ago I asked our clients about their experience with Integrity and what they expected from us. We sent out a customer survey to 20 of our top clients to find out what they had to say. The feedback was very enlightening and offered us definitive information that we could work with. This enabled me to work on specific material to help improve our services and to continue to exceed our clients' expectations. It also enabled us to gain the confidence to continue to target this type of client through purpose-driven marketing.
Other low-cost marketing activities include our monthly emails, Facebook and SMS offers. I love offering our existing database special offers just for them as we can add real value to their experience that way. We also hold events throughout the year and Integrity contributes to as many charitable organisation as possible – we never refuse to support our local council and community, and as a result we are able to continue to reach new clients and expand our marketing scope within the community through this cause-related effective marketing tool. Integrity is all about building good relationships with our clients and community. This is something we really pride ourselves on and each team member thrives on such activity as they understand just how important this is to our business. Our clients all lead extremely busy lives and all are under a great deal of stress and pressure. We love to let them know that we are here for them as individuals and not just provide them solutions for their skin health. We want them to look at their visit to us as a safe retreat where they can momentarily rest from the world and experience a moment when it is all about them and their needs.
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We have membership options to suit all budgets and this enables us to heighten our clients' experience with us by adding so much more value to their lives. Consultations are free and we always recommend courses and treatment plans to help them achieve their skin goals. All our recommendations are presented upfront including their appropriate homecare regime. The time spent with each new client is up to an hour, depending on the consultation. Our clinic coordinators follow up every new consultation by phone to answer any questions and to ensure they book them for their next appointment if they have not already secured a time. We ensure that the quality of our services and communication remains consistent from the first appointment right through to years down the track – this is an important part of our business objectives.
OUR STRATEGIES FOR GROWTH THAT HAVE WORKED We then fine-tuned our website and our social media tools such as Facebook, Twitter and LinkedIn. We also streamlined our marketing throughout our social media hub in the most cost-effective way to get the Integrity brand name out there. Monthly, I also collaborate with each of my suppliers to co-brand offers for our clients to keep the cost of marketing down. Our newsletters are personalised and designed in-house. They are then mailed out monthly to our clients' homes. We then regularly touch base with them, offering our specials and updating them on all aspects of our services. It is a great way to also educate and offer tips they can use to improve health and wellbeing and to add value to their relationship with us. We get great feedback from this effort and a good return on investment from this initiative. We also place the newsletter at our reception so that clients and guests can freely pick up one, as we have a very large walk-in traffic as well as our regulars. 㤵 㜵
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Additionally, on a monthly basis we distribute our newsletters to 12 selected businesses in the area. These include coffee shops, boutiques and high-end hairdressers. Over the past year we have strategically aligned ourselves with Lorna Jane – a boutique gym, high-end fashion houses and other clinics and a multitude of allied health professions as we also advocate good health strategies. Our aim is to be aligned only with reputable businesses and like-minded professionals, in this way we are capturing the right kind of client that we are looking for. This strategy has been highly successful and has allowed us to significantly grow our business.
OTHER AREAS OF IMPORTANCE THAT WE ADHERE TO INCLUDE:
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We follow a strict ethical conduct in line with APAN's strict Code of Ethics and national Associations All our practitioners are fully certified and licensed where required We maintain the highest industry standards of hygiene and sanitation
Additionally we are constantly upgrading our knowledge through ongoing training and industry conference. For example the APAN regional conference held in Townsville in May was extraordinary. Running a business takes a lot of dedication and lateral thinking. Staying motivated and abreast of all facets can be really challenging. Unlike many biased presentations, the APAN conference lecture program was well researched and based on global industry trends and facts. It offered us many more tools for our kits to work with as business owners. It is an absolute honour to be affiliated with APAN and what this organisation stands for. It is encouraging to have such quality support.
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INTEGRITY Paramedical Skin Practitioners is located at: 15/1932 Logan Road, Upper Mount Gravatt Qld 4122 Ph: 07 3849 4111, Web: www.integrityskin.com.au
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Deka Synchro Replay Alexandrite and Nd:YAG Laser Leads the Market
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Deka is fast approaching the position of the world's highest-selling aesthetic laser company and the recent release of the Synchro Replay looks to secure their position as one of world's premium manufacturers of Alexandrite and Nd:YAG lasers. Matt Moncrieff of High Tech Laser, the exclusive distributor of Deka in Australia, said the new Synchro Replay is now the most powerful Alexandrite laser available for aesthetic laser treatments with a huge 20mm spot size. “Deka has been regarded one of the top manufacturers of laser devices for many years. The new Synchro Replay outperforms any system currently available and it is a reflection of Deka's commitment to constantly improving their systems. The Replay system is set to become the new benchmark for this class of laser by allowing operators to perform faster treatments and to avoid expensive consumables required by some of the competing systems.” The Synchro Replay is ideal for experienced laser clinics or for IPL users looking to make a step up to laser treatments. It combines Alexandrite and Nd:YAG laser sources in a single platform, and provides the option of an additional high-quality pulsed light source. Apart from hair removal the Alexandrite and Nd:YAG wavelengths provide the ability to deliver high-quality vascular and pigmentation treatments. The optional 5-filter pulsed-light source makes the system a complete light-based treatment workstation capable of delivering a comprehensive range of high-quality aesthetic treatments.
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The Synchro Replay bypasses the need for costly cooling consumables with a contact pre-cooling system built into every handpiece. The SmartCooler Contact Skin Cooling system increases comfort for the patient and increases the safety of treatments.
The Synchro Replay features a top-hat laser-beam profile that eliminates 'hotspots' in the treatment area. With traditional lasers for hair removal a hotspot is formed in the centre of the treatment area with less energy towards the edges. The top-hat beam profile creates even energy distribution over the entire spot, meaning more comfortable and predictable treatment results.
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For advice on any laser system you may be considering call High Tech Laser on 1300 309 233 or visit www.hightechlaser.com.au.
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APAN’S AMAZING EXPERT ADVICE AND SUPPORT has enabled me to overcome my challenges and to CONTINUE TO GROW my business despite difficult economic times. I love an organisation that is committed to excellence!
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For further information please contact APAN on 07 5593 0360 | Email info@apanetwork.com | www.apanetwork.com and download a Membership Application Form.
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productinnovations GREAT STOCKING STUFFERS Germaine de Capuccini, innovators in quality skincare, have some great gifts for Christmas, everything from beautifully packaged “Gift with purchase” Swarovski Crystal sets, to small Travel Kits that make “great stocking stuffers” or “addons” to gift vouchers.
This year they are introducing four of their most popular ranges as travel kits:
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The Excel O2 Kit includes a cleanser, toner and moisturiser that contains the key elements of Cytokines and Oxygen to help the skin re-establish its cellular functions. The Hydracure Kit includes a cleanser, toner and moisturiser that works to combat dehydration and protecting the skin from premature ageing. Hydracure is the first professional line that takes into account both skin type and climate. The Timexpert Rides Kit is their anti-ageing range that focuses on cellular dynamics to strengthen the skin's architecture from the lower levels up to fill fine lines and wrinkles and plump the skin, The Travel Kit includes a rich moisturising cream, a filler serum and an anti-ageing cleanser. The Men's Kit is also now available in travel size and combines natural ingredients such as birch sap, trace elements, Vitamin C and olive leaf extract designed exclusively for men's skin to meet all skin types needs. The Travel Kit includes a Supreme Shaving Cream, a post shave emulsion and a Hydra-Elements facial cream.
Germaine de Capuccini's Christmas Jewel Sets are fabulous ‘Gift with Purchase Promotions’ in conjunction with prestigious brand Swarovski Crystal There are 11 Gift sets to choose from, all offering the customer great added value. One in particular which is sure to be a great seller is Germaine de Capuccini's Timexpert Rides Cream set, also known as the “Better then Botox Cream”. This product guarantees to reduce the depth and length of wrinkles, leaving the skin looking visibly younger. When you purchase this cream in the Jewel Christmas promotion you also receive the Timexpert Rides Eye Duo (in full retail size) (RRP $143), with the gift valued at $139. For
more information on Germaine de Capuccini Promotions please contact 1300 432 100 or visit www.germaine-de-capuccini.com.au
New Product Alert: Beauty Face Germaine de Capuccini Timexpert Rides Eye Duo Eye Contour Treatment
Germaine de Capuccini has taken an avant garde approach and formulated a unique product using the very latest in technology with innovation. The Timexpert Rides Eye Duo Eye Contour Treatment product comprises of two 10ml tubes providing the very best solution. These two fantastic products work together to give you the best results without having to spend enormous amounts of money. The Day Emulsion with its light texture works at fighting expression lines during the day and the Night Mask, specifically used in the evening, will work to recover the skin from the damage it has suffered during the day. With two leading peptides hexapeptide acting similar to Botox injections and pentapeptide, acting similar to fillers, it offers skin the boost it needs to minimise the appearance of lines from the outside in. Germaine de Capuccini offers this new avant garde and sophisticated approach to work against expression wrinkles. This is a treatment line that has been inspired by the latest advances in plastic surgery results, works on the 'skin's self-regenerative capabilities' to
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achieve plumping anti-ageing results. Contact 1300 432 100 or visit www.germaine-de-capuccini.com.au.
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APJ 86
Sranrom Urban Wellness Collections
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If you live in an urban epicentre like Sydney, New York, London or beautiful Bangkok, the home of Sranrom's blissful, natural beauty and wellness products, you must be well aware that the glamour and excitement of city living comes hand-in-hand with multiple forms of stress. But since you probably aren't prepared to trade the benefits of city life for a simpler countryside one, Sranrom has come up with the amazingly effective Urban Wellness aromatherapy collections to help you cope with daily stress and improve the quality of your life. Each collection features an exoticsmelling essential oil blend made from popular Thai plants, herbs and flowers that can be found growing in the back gardens of most Thai homes. Each of these distinctive blends is specially designed to possess the aromatic ability to address a specific symptom of modern day stress, be it exhaustion, anxiety or the inability to get a full night's rest.
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The Sranrom Urban Wellness line offers three unique collections
Calm Down: Featuring a heady herby-lime aroma, filled with fresh notes, this aromatherapy collection is made from the intensely fragrant essential oils of Kaffir Lime and Lemongrass. Both herbs are renowned for their aromatic abilities to clear headaches, soothe nerves and relieve tension. Available in: Shower Gel, Body Cream, Hand Cream, Shampoo, Conditioner, Bath/Massage Oil. Professional: Massage Oil, Shower Gel, Body Cream, Body Scrub (Sea Salt based)
Sleep Tight: Featuring a distinctly oriental floral bouquet, this aromatherapy collection is made from the intoxicatingly sweet-smelling essential oils of Jasmine and Champaca flowers, and enhanced with the freshness of Lavender oil. The aromas of the Jasmine and Champaca flowers sooth the senses and promote a state of peace, while the refreshing Lavender removes nervous exhaustion and restlessness and induces sleep. Available in: Shower Gel, Body Cream, Hand Cream, Bath/Massage Oil. Professional: Massage Oil, Shower Gel, Body Cream, Body Scrub (Creamy Clay based)
Get Lively: Featuring a fresh citrus aroma with warming notes, this aromatherapy collection blends invigorating properties of Sweet Orange Oil with energising Ginger oil. Sweet Orange Oil has long been used to uplift and refresh, while Ginger oil is known for its abilIty to warm the emotions. This vibrant blend revitalises the soul and refreshes. Available in: Shower Gel, Body Cream, Hand Cream, Bath/Massage Oil. Sranrom is distributed by Dynamic Skin Solutions: Phone Jacqui Guinane on 0407 709 022 or email: info@dynamicskinsolutions.com.au 㤵 㜵
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Multi Tasking Makeup Age Perfecting Primer
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Pore-perfecting Radiance Mineral Primer from SkinO2 contains ingredients with time release technology to smooth and hydrate the skin for a perfect finish. Containing minerals, peptides and hyaluronic acid to treat and hydrate the skin for a timeless finish. This amazing product will help to instantly reduce the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles and open pores. Apply primer to clean skin after moisturising, then brush on mineral makeup and blush to cheeks and set with SkinO2 hydrating finishing spritz and experience the difference. Wholesale price $39.90. Two for the price of one
for the month of October only while stocks last. Please mention this article to redeem this offer. Phone SkinO2 07 5593 4488. APJ 87
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Line n Grow
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for gorgeous eyelashes
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Line n Grow is perfect for anyone wanting longer, fuller eyelashes. It is especially beneficial for those with short, brittle or thinning eyelashes. Clinical studies have shown that the Line n Grow is safe for contact lens wearers and sensitive eyes. Containing p o w e r f u l antioxidants, polypeptides, Japanese Green Tea, Hyaluronic Acid and Rosemary extract, this incredible product will nourish, lengthen and grow lashes to their full potential. Line n Grow Tinted Lash Lengthener can be worn daily under
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For further details contact Be Beauty on Ph: 1300 885 101 additional makeup.
GIFT VOUCHERS with a difference Beautifully presented Gift Vouchers are very much part of the attraction to lure someone to choose your services as a gift over something else. But printing high quality gift vouchers can be quite expensive. APAN has developed a wonderful solution to this. For Christmas they have designed two different Christmas Gift Vouchers. Uniquely seasonal, they will help you increase your sales for treatment and products this Christmas season. And there is more. If you check the APAN website you will find over 13 different designs and topics to choose from including Thank You Cards, Happy Birthday and special cards designed for Promotional events and reaching out to clients who have not visited you for some time. The necessary information is included on the back and all you need to do is place your details to customise them for your salon. These cards are colourful and attractively presented with a cello-glaze finish that make them very appealing. In fact, they can replace a card.
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New release: VALENTINE'S DAY CARDS. These gorgeous cards will entice both men and women to purchase the perfect gift for Valentine's Day from you. Use them to generate sales. Why not include some with your Christmas Gift Voucher order and save. You can order one design or a mixture of designs and themes. Your Gift Voucher promotion has never been easier!
MYO-CYTE PLUS Anti-Wrinkle Serum by Dr Pugliese Packed with proven ingredients to give the skin a visible lift, MYO-CYTE PLUS Anti-Wrinkle Serum is a scientific breakthrough for effective anti-ageing TM TM protocols. Containing Mytrixyl , Matrixyl 3000 ,
Snap-8TM and InylineTM, it will tighten and firm the deeper layers of the skin for an optimal antiageing effect. MYO-CYTE PLUS also containing hyaluronic acid, anti-oxidants, amino acids and Passion Flower Extract for their added antiinflammatory benefits to restore skin vibrancy. Myo-Cyte Plus Anti-Wrinkle Serum is formulated for Circadia by Dr Pugliese. For this and other leading clinically-strength and scientifically-proven formulations contact Circadia – phone Angela Cannizzaro on 0409 238 119.
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SPECIAL OFFER: Purchase 150 of one design or a mixture ㈵
of Gift Voucher or Post Cards of your choice for the special price of $110 and we will send them to you FREIGHT FREE.
Contact APAN on 07 5593 0360 or email info@apanetwork.com Web: www.apanetwork.com
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Find your PERFECT PARTNER to your nail enhancement services
with FRENCH WRAP PLUS
Smile lines and free edges, sought after by today's eclectic clientele are time consuming and unprofitable for salons. If you are offering Shellac, or any of the myriad of brush-on and soak-off gels, Dashing Diva have invented your saviour. FRENCH WRAP PLUS is the perfect partner. Use the partners together to create exactly what your clients are looking for. For you it's creativity and profit, exactly what your salon needs. French Wrap Plus is so simple to fit, view the FREE LOOK video at www.salonsgroup.com or Phone 1800-655-814 for your
Quote this ad in APJ for freightfree delivery on your next order. personalised access link.
RASPBERRY ENZYMES for skin renewal and glowing skin While glycolic acid is frequently used for skin exfoliation and skin renewal, the choice of enzyme peels are equally effective, and some authorities consider them as a superior option because they are not random in their action. Enzymes selectively destroy aged cells, while not harming healthy cells.
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DefenCELL Nutrigenomic Dietary Supplement Getting ready to look and feel your best for the upcoming summer months can be a challenge. If you are offering your clients wellness, detoxification or slimming services you should also consider internal support. DefenCELL is a clinically-proven effective nutrigenomic dietary supplement and a unique formulation that combines enzymeactive broccoli sprouts in a patented strain of French Cantaloupe produced for its high levels of antioxidant enzymes. These plant ingredients are combined with selected micronutrients to nutrigenomically activate and support the body's natural cellular detoxification processes as well as its cell-protective and antioxidant defences. Clinical trials show that the compounds in DefenCELL may protect against DNA damage, improve cardiovascular health, boost cellular antioxidant defeneces and activate key enzymes in liver
Available from CellLogic Pty Ltd Ph: 07 3041 4091 www.cell-logic.com.au
detoxification.
CIRCADIA by the renowned Dr Pugliese brings their incredible Raspberry Enzyme Peel that contains Carragenen, Bromelain, Papain, Trypsin, L-Cysteine and Raspberry Extract as its key active ingredients to create a powerful and effective skin peel with enhanced skin renewal benefits. The product comes in a powder and a liquid activator, which are blended prior to application. This is a professional line range offering you a highly effective skinbrightening and skin refining outcome and is a highly recommended professional treatment that can deliver amazing results.
For further details for these and other Circadia products contact Angela Cannizzaro on 0409 238 119.
Liquid Gold Perfect Daywear New from Alpha-H comes Liquid Gold Perfect Daywear a unique moisture serum containing Hyaluronic Acid and mineral bronzing beads to give the skin added boost and a soft, natural, healthy-looking glow. Perfect Daywear can be applied over moisturiser to boost hydration levels, or directly on to a cleansed skin to give the skin added lift. The hyaluronic acid plumps up fine lines and wrinkles, while the mineral bronzing reflectors leave the skin with a smooth, satin finish.
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For further details contact Alpha-H on 1800 659 777.
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Understanding Client Communication Style and Identifying their Needs By Val Glover-Hovan In any profession and even more so in cosmetic tattoo the success of your services will greatly hinge on effective communication and identifying your client’s needs. After all, how will you determine your client's expectation unless you first establish a communication of trust that will win their confidence in your expertise? In this article I would like to define different personality characteristics and present how their perceptions and communication style differ. In essence these individuals have different priorities on what is important to them. Understanding them will enable you to move forward towards a successful procedure or treatment. Studying these will help you respond positively to people and establish a trusting and collaborative relationship essential for the success of the treatment and the benefit of both parties. 㤵 㜵
Thinking style is related to how a person gathers information and makes decisions, therefore the way a person thinks affects the way they will also behave. There are five main styles of thinking: ! The Synthesist: This person loves to debate and question. They
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are not happy unless you let them satisfy their quest for understanding. They love to oppose. With this individual you must be flexible. Try to draw this person out and ask what it is he/she wants in a polite way. The Idealist: This person loves mission statements. They particularly enjoy portfolios with before and after pictures. They
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will ask “what's in it for me or what will it do for me?” Feelings are important to him/her. This person likes to be inspired. The Pragmatist: This person wishes the world was a better place and tries to improve things, but recognises that nothing changes overnight and that some things will never change. This person loves action plans and knowing step-by-step what will happen throughout the procedure. If you walk them through the process in an orderly fashion they will relate well to you. A video explaining the process is a good way to get across to this person. A step-by-step list is what he or she likes to see. The Analyst: This person loves to know every detail and they like to see it in print. They like dates, spreadsheets and information. They love tests, questions and answers and lots of references. The Realist: This person sees the world as it is, accepts it as is and does not try to change anything. They love to know the bottom line. How much does it cost? Does it hurt? Does it last? They like realistic and brief descriptions of the procedures and the pricelist.
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NOW LET'S LOOK AT THE FOUR BASIC CUSTOMER NEEDS: ㈵
FIRST IMPRESSIONS – THE MOMENT OF TRUTH 1. The need to feel welcomed – Welcome your customer. Make a
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stated effort to acknowledge them and let them know that you will be with them shortly. Indicate that you remember them by using their name at least seven times in your first conversation. 2. The need to be understood – Show your understanding of the client's needs and fears, especially with cosmetic tattoo. Make good eye contact. Listen carefully to their needs. Give them warm, welcoming feelings. Focus all your attention on the client and do not allow distractions or interruptions. Try not to anticipate their comments as they will think you are not listening. To indicate understanding use non-verbal communication such as nodding your head, while listening to them. A fallowed brow or squinting eyes is a sign of confusion, so look at for such signs. 3. The need to comfort – Make them feel comfortable. Most people want that warm, fuzzy feeling. They want to be tuned into the decision-making process. Use empathy. Say, “I understand and I can appreciate how you feel”. Make sure your work environment is neat and clean so that clients will feel comfortable about you and what you offer. 4. The need to feel important – Make your client feel appreciated and important. People want a memorable experience. Validate them by showing respect. Use their name, look at them in the eyes and shake their hand and show attentiveness.
ARMED WITH THIS INFORMATION NOW LET'S LOOK AT WHAT THE STATISTICS SAY ABOUT WHY CUSTOMERS COMPLAIN:
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They felt ignored: When you are with a client they should be the centre of your universe. Be attentive and let them know what you are doing and why. The first few minutes with your client are the most important. Make sure that from the outset you make the right connection. Even if you are busy when they come in, smile and acknowledge them. They were treated poorly: Use the golden rule when dealing with your clients, treat them with courtesy and respect. They didn't feel anyone tried to understand their needs: Sit down with your client and focus your attention on what they have to say and carefully listen what they have to tell you to determine their point of reference and what they consider as the priority, then move to address this in a professional manner. This will allow them to believe that you are considerate of their opinion and will open up trust between you and them to receive your recommendations. They wait an extended period of time: At all times try to be punctual, but if things are running a little behind schedule extend your apology and reassure them that you are doing the best you can to ensure their treatment time is not delayed too much longer.
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Maintaining a professional approach in your communication style and the appropriate decorum will lay the best foundation to a successful and trusting relationship between you and your clients. Observing a few simple protocols and gaining knowledge on communication styles will substantially improve your position in moving forward with product and treatment recommendations, as well as building a credible relationship with your clients that will hopefully last over many years.
Confused and overwhelmed: When presenting a new procedure or concept step up your information in an orderly manner, while checking that your client is not confused or overwhelmed to ensure that they understand you. Communicate at their level.
Val Glover-Hovan is a multi-award winner and renowned internationally for her techniques and teaching methods in cosmetic tattoo. Val can be contacted for training advice or supplies on 1300 88 66 55 or sales@hovansgroup.com.au or visit www.hovansgroup.com.au
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SCIENTIFIC NEWS
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Potential for Curry Spice Compound as Alzheimer's Treatment
While a number of hurdles in converting curcumin into a viable Alzheimer's therapy must be addressed, the cellular mechanisms by which it beneficially alters the inflammatory processes are being elucidated today. Reporting that: “All chronic diseases are caused by dysregulation of multiple targets,” the article notes that: ”With curcumin, Mother Nature has already provided a compound that does so.” Lauren K. Wolf. “Tumeric-Derived Compound Curcumin May Treat Alzheimer's.” Chemical & Engineering News, 90(31), July 30, 2012.
Vitamin D Reduces Frailty
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With over five million Americans affected by Alzheimer's disease, and projections that the number will rise to 16 million by 2050, scientists have been exploring natural therapeutic approaches because they involve shorter development times and are generally less expensive, as compared to pharmacological products. One of the most promising natural therapies is curcumin, a spice compound extracted from the rootstalks of the turmeric plant and which gives curry its yellow colour and pungent flavour.
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Previously, studies have associated frailty with increased risk of death; as well, other studies have found low blood levels of Vitamin D to result in the same predicament. Ellen Smit, from Oregon State University (Oregon, USA), and colleagues assessed the combined effects of frailty and low Vitamin D on mortality. The randomised,
Shrinking Telomeres May Foretell Dementia
Telomeres are the end caps of chromosomes, protecting the DNA complexes from deterioration during cell division. Telomere shortening is considered a marker of cellular ageing, and prematurely shortened telomeres have been linked to increased risk of cancers, heart disease, dementia and death. Lawrence Honig, from Columbia University (New York, USA), and colleagues assessed DNA samples from participants enrolled in the Washington Heights-Inwood Community Ageing Project. nationally representative study involving 4,731 adults, ages 60 and over, divided subjects into four groups. The low group had levels less than 50 nanomole per litre; the highest group had vitamin D of 84 or higher. In general, those who had lower vitamin D levels were more likely to be frail. Further, participants who were frail had more than double the risk of death than those who were not frail. Frail adults with low levels of vitamin D tripled their risk of death over people who were not frail and who had higher levels of vitamin D. Reporting that: “Our results suggest that low serum [Vitamin D] is associated with frailty,” the study authors conclude that: “there is additive joint effects of serum [Vitamin D] and frailty on all-cause mortality in older adults.” They remark that: “A balanced diet, including good sources of vitamin D like milk and fish, and being physically active outdoors, will go a long way in helping older adults to stay independent and healthy for longer.” E Smit, C J Crespo, Y Michael, F A Ramirez-Marrero, G R Brodowicz, et al. “The effect of vitamin D and frailty on mortality among non-institutionalized US older adults.” Eur J Clin Nutr., 123 June 2012.
The team used real-time polymerase chain reaction (PCR) to determine mean telomere
length in 1,983 patients who had a mean age of 78 and who were followed for mortality for a mean of 9.3 years. During the study, 190 patients (9.6%) developed incident dementia. Confirming findings of previous studies, the researchers found that telomere length was inversely related to age and was shorter in men than in women. Further, they found that patients who died during follow-up had shorter mean telomere length than survivors, and the association remained even after adjusting for age, sex, education, and apolipoprotein E genotype status. The team also determined that patients who developed dementia had significantly shorter telomere length (6,131 base pairs for
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prevalent cases and 6,315 base pairs for incident cases, as compared with 6,431 base pairs for those remaining dementia-free.) The study authors conclude that: “Our findings suggest that shortened leukocyte [telomere length] is associated with risks for dementia and mortality and may therefore be a marker of biological ageing.” Honig LS, Kang M, Schupf N, Lee JH, Mayeux R. “Association of Shorter Leukocyte Telomere Repeat Length With Dementia and Mortality.” Arch Neurol., July 23, 2012.
researchers commented that complete, global elimination of inactivity was unlikely, but with a 10% or 25% reduction in global rates of inactivity, an estimated 533,000 and 1.3 million deaths, respectively, due to all-cause mortality would be prevented. Writing that: “Physical inactivity has a major health effect worldwide,” the study authors observe that: “Decrease in or removal of this unhealthy habit could improve health substantially.”
Physical Activity Essential to Prolong Life Expectancy Reporting that the global mortality burden of physical inactivity stands at over 5.3 million deaths annually, is similar to that of cigarette smoking at 5 million deaths per year, IMin Lee, from Harvard Medical School (Massachusetts, USA), and colleagues urge for initiatives to promote attainment of the World Health Organisation (WHO) recommendation of 150 minutes/week of moderate physical activity, such as brisk walking.
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The team acquired burden of physical activity measures through several large cohort studies throughout the world using input from the Lancet Physical Activity Series Working Group, including data on prevalence of physical activity at baseline and incidence of death and relevant non-communicable disease. Those data were then used to determine the population attributable fraction (PAF) by country, by region and globally for coronary heart disease, type 2 diabetes, breast cancer, colon cancer and all-cause mortality. The researchers found that by eliminating inactivity globally, the world's population would gain an estimated median 0.68 years in life expectancy (range 0.41 to 0.95), and that inactivity was tied to 5.3 million of 57 million deaths around the world in 2008. The
Lee IM, Shiroma EJ, Lobelo F, Puska P, Blair SN, Katzmarzyk PT; Lancet Physical Activity Series Working Group. “Effect of physical inactivity on major non-communicable diseases worldwide: an analysis of burden of disease and life expectancy.” Lancet. 2012 Jul 21;380(9838):219-29.
of type-2 diabetes and cardiovascular disease. Maria Luz Fernandez, from the University of Connecticut (Connecticut, USA), and colleagues enrolled 24 men with Metabolic Syndrome in a month-long study that randomly assigned the participants to receive either freeze-dried grape polyphenol powder, or a placebo.
A three-week washout period followed, and then the subjects crossed over to the other intervention. The researchers found that systolic blood pressure decreased in the grape-extract group, with the average resting systolic blood pressure standing at 122.6 mmHg, as compared to 128 mmHg in the placebo group. As well, concentrations of key cellular inflammatory markers, most notably soluble intercellular adhesion molecule-1 (sICAM-1), was lower in the grape-extract group, compared to the placebo. The study authors conclude that: "These results suggest that grape polyphenols may potentiate vasorelaxation and reduce BP and circulating cell adhesion molecules, resulting in improvements in vascular function.” Jacqueline Barona, Juan C. Aristizabal, Christopher N. Blesso, Jeff S. Volek, Maria Luz Fernandez. “Grape Polyphenols Reduce Blood Pressure and Increase Flow-Mediated Vasodilation in Men with Metabolic Syndrome.” J. Nutr., September 2012, jn.112.162743.
Grape Powder May Help to Counter Metabolic Syndrome
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Characterised by c e n t r a l o b e s i t y, hypertension, and adverse glucose and insulin metabolism, Metabolic Syndrome is a condition associated with increased risk
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specifically, women who had the highest levels of the chemicals mono-benzyl phthalate and mono-isobutyl phthalate had almost twice the risk of diabetes compared to women with the lowest levels of those chemicals.
Secondly, the team observed that women with higher than median levels of the chemical mono-(3carboxypropyl) phthalate had approximately a 60% increased risk of diabetes.
Chemicals in Personal Care Products May Raise Diabetes Risk Phthalates are endocrine-disrupting chemicals that are commonly found in personal care products such as body moisturisers, nail polishes, soaps, hair sprays and perfumes. They are also used in adhesives, electronics, toys and a variety of other products. Tamarra James-Todd, from Brigham and Women's Hospital (Massachusetts, USA), and colleagues analysed urinary concentrations of phthalates in 2,350 women enrolled in the National Health and Nutrition Examination Survey (NHANES). Women with higher levels of phthalates in their urine were more likely to have diabetes;
And thirdly, women with moderately high levels of the chemicals mono-n-butyl phthalate and di-2-ethylhexyl phthalate had approximately a 70% increased risk of diabetes. Writing that: “Urinary levels of several phthalates were associated with prevalent diabetes,” the study authors urge for: “Future prospective studies are needed to further explore these associations to determine whether phthalate exposure can alter glucose metabolism, and increase the risk of insulin resistance and diabetes.”
A study presented at the American Society for Biochemistry and Molecular Biology annual scientific meeting in California showed that avocado could combat free radicals that contribute to ageing, artery damage and cancer.
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However, experiments on yeast cells showed that avocado oil was effective against mitochondrial free radicals, Mexican researcher Christopher Cortes-Rojo told the conference. “Our results are promising because they indicate that avocado consumption could improve the health status of patients with diabetes and other patients through an additional mechanism to improvement of blood lipids,” he said. SOURCE: http://www.asbmb.org/ American Society for Biochemistry and Molecular Biology Annual Scientific Meeting 2012.
Ta m a r r a J a m e s - To d d , Richard Stahlhut, John D Meeker, Sheena-Gail Powell, Russ Hauser, Tianyi Huang, Janet Rich-Edwards. “Urinary Phthalate M e t a b o l i t e Concentrationsand Diabetesamong Women in the National Health and Nutrition Examination Survey (NHANES) 20012008.” Environ Health Perspectives, July 13, 2012.
Avocado oil may have anti-ageing properties similar to those attributed to olive oil, researchers say.
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While many antioxidants in vegetables and fruits are known to neutralise free radicals, they cannot reach those in mitochondria.
CAFFEINE BOOSTS AVOCADO& ANTI-AGEING EFFECTIVENESS OF PROPERTIES PAINKILLERS
Caffeine improves the effectiveness of over-the-counter pain-relieving drugs by a small margin according to a new evidence review in The Cochrane Library. Caffeine, the same stimulant present in coffee, tea, sodas, and chocolate, is a common ingredient
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added to many analgesic formulations sold in Australian pharmacies. The review set out to examine whether caffeine actually improves the pain-relieving effects of such medicines. The authors identified 19 double-blind studies, with 7238 participants, that compared a single dose of analgesic plus caffeine with the same dose of the analgesic alone in the treatment of acute pain. Most studies used paracetamol or ibuprofen, with 100 mg to 130 mg caffeine, and the most common pain conditions studied were menstrual period pain, postoperative dental pain, postpartum pain and headache. The review found that adding caffeine, at a dose equivalent to a mug of coffee, to a standard dose of common analgesics such as paracetamol or ibuprofen increases the number of people with acute pain who will experience a good level of pain relief by five to 10 per cent. Specifically, an additional five to 10 per cent of patients who took the caffeinated formulations said that they experienced at least 50 per cent of the maximum possible pain relief over four to six hours, considered their treatment very good or excellent, or had headache relief after two hours.
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The mechanism by which caffeine boosts painkillers and its effectiveness is currently unknown. The stimulant could have multiple effects, including getting other drugs into the b l o o d s t r e a m f a s t e r, r a i s i n g t h e i r concentration by slowing their clearance from the bloodstream, directly affecting how nerves perceive pain, or even changing how people perceive pain by affecting their moods or emotions. According to Steven P. Cohen, Associate Professor of Anesthesiology and Critical Care Medicine at the Johns Hopkins School of Medicine and Director of Pain Research at Walter Reed National Military Medical Centre, doctors should choose carefully which patients receive caffeine along with their regular pain medicines. Since the
booster effect is small, he explains, patients taking strong painkillers for very painful conditions probably won't benefit. However, he says, the drug is a relatively harmless addition that might help patients with more minor conditions. Caffeine is a really, really safe drug, so safe that we don't regulate it," he says. SOURCE: http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1002/14651858. CD009281.pub2/abstract Derry CJ, Derry S, Moore RA. Caffeine as an analgesic adjuvant for acute pain in adults. Cochrane Database of Systematic Reviews 2012, Issue 3.
SLEEP LESSENS THE EFFECT GENES HAVE ON WEIGHT Lose weight while you sleep. It sounds like something you'd hear on a late-night infomercial. But as wild as the idea sounds, substantial medical evidence suggests some fascinating links between sleep and weight. A new study shows sleeping more may actually help fight a genetic predisposition to gain weight. A new study examining the relationship between sleep duration and body mass index (BMI) suggests that getting plenty of sleep each night may help to suppress certain genetic factors that promote weight gain. Nathaniel Watson, of the University of Washington, and colleagues collected data on
height, weight and sleep habits from 1,088 pairs of twins. Results showed that genetic influences accounted for 70% of differences in BMI in twins that slept for seven hours or less each night, compared with just 32% in those that slept for nine hours or more each night. Furthermore, shorter sleep duration was associated with increased BMI, while longer sleep duration was associated with decreased BMI.
"The less sleep you get, the more your genes contribute to how much you weigh. The more sleep you get, the less your genes determine how much you weigh," says lead author Nathaniel Watson, a neurologist and codirector of the University of Washington Medicine Sleep Center in Seattle. The researchers concluded: “Shorter sleep duration is associated with increased BMI and increased genetic influences on BMI, suggesting that shorter sleep duration increases expression of genetic risks for high body weight. At the same time, longer sleep duration may suppress genetic influences on body weight.” Scientists have known for years that sleep deprivation increases levels of a hunger hormone and decreases levels of a hormone that makes you feel full. The effects may lead to overeating and weight gain. The new findings are another good reason to be sure you get enough shut-eye every night, says sleep expert Jodi Mindell, a psychology professor at Saint Joseph's University in Philadelphia. "If you're trying to lose weight, getting enough sleep gives you a fighting chance.” Source: Nathaniel F Watson, Kathryn Paige Harden, Debra Buchwald, Michael V Vitiello, Allan I. Pack, David S Weigle, Jack Goldberg. Sleep duration and body mass index in twins: a gene-environment interaction. Sleep. 2012;35:597-603. Courtesy: The American Academy of Anti-Aging Medicine and the AustralAsian Academy of AntiAgeing Medine (www.a5m.net)
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staffrecruitment
SHORTLISTING: THE WAY FORWARD
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First, let's review what the full service Recruitment Process is all about:
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1. Client Profile and Position Brief
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The process begins with a detailed and thorough understanding of what you, the business owner, wants, and the selection criteria you require for the role.
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2. Creating a Candidate Blueprint
Recruitment Gets a Facelift! By Jennifer Muldoon In difficult economic times a lot hinges on recruiting and gaining the right staff that will support the salon's objectives and work collaboratively to ensure the survival and growth of the business. One of the most common complaints we receive from salons is “how do I identify and get the right staff member for my business?” As with many aspects of business, staff recruitment has now become a specialised professional skill, and the benefit of engaging an expert is valuable when you consider the problems you may encounter if you employ the wrong staff member. Jennifer Muldoon is the director of Kindred Personnel Solutions, and who specialises in ensuring that salons and clinics gain the best person for the job when it comes to staff. Within the aesthetics industry, engaging a “recruitment professional” is a relatively new concept that many are unfamiliar with, however, engaging a capable and competent expert is as much about “risk management” as it is about prudent business practices. In this article Jennifer provides us with a brief outline of the strategies her company employs when providing their recruitment services that are specifically designed to help identify the best employer/employee fit for the tasks they will need to undertake. From time to time we all have a good look at ourselves, our businesses, life goals and dreams and come to the realisation that every aspect of our lives needs a serious makeover! Whether we like it or not, our industry is changing rapidly and with these changes comes sudden reevaluation and rejuvenation. It is completely up to us how we manage and grow from the changes all around us.
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The recruitment industry is no different. With the evolution of a more flexible work environment and the selection criteria for employment becoming completely transparent, recruitment strategies are also undergoing some timely changes... for the better! So what does this mean exactly? In a nutshell, this gives the employer more power and choice at the final stage of the recruitment process at a more affordable price. Staffing issues are still a major cause of concern for many businesses out there today.
To create a blueprint of our candidates we require a detailed understanding of the applicant's skills and experience, with the focus on the attitude and aptitude requirements of the ideal candidate.
3. Sourcing the Candidates This involves casting a wide net over various search engines, contacts, networks and industry related resources that we have strategic alliances with to source out the correct personnel for the salon or clinic.
4. The Screening Process This is the first stage of gauging a match for the selection criteria. Once deemed suitable they move on to the next stage.
5. Interview At this stage of the process, we submit the candidates to psychometric evaluation to further streamline the suitability assessment in regards to aptitude and attitudes, then on to the face-to-face formal interview and then to the final stage of job offer.
6. Job Offer and Acceptance Upon agreement from client and candidate, the normal induction/probationary stage of engagement commences.
NOW TO THE SHORTLIST PROCESS!* The Shortlist performs all the preliminary requirements of traditional recruitment services with a couple of notable exceptions. These exceptions are: ! We present you with a minimum of three suitable candidates for final interviewing ! YOU conduct the final interview with all the candidates on the shortlist at your convenience ! YOU can trade test the candidates within your own workplace to test skill set ! The final decision is totally yours! ! The best part is that the cost is capped at $2500! The beauty about this method is that you get the best of both worlds! All the precision and efficiency of traditional recruitment with the flexibility to have the final say with a more cost-effective solution.
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*does not apply to Executive placements; certain conditions apply. Kindred Personnel Solutions is working towards creating the most flexible and successful recruitment resource with a firm grasp of industry-experienced consultants. For all your staffing needs please contact Jennifer Muldoon at Kindred Personnel Solutions 0407 638 649 or visit our website www.kindredpersonnelsolutions.com
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MILA D'OPIZ
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SWISS BEAUTY
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Mila d'Opiz – Star Performance Products Individual Intensive 8 Series Concentrate Collection Range Mila d'Opiz designed an advanced formulation in the Series 8 Concentrate Collection Range to specifically address individual skin concerns. This series of eight individual intensive and supreme concentrates will accelerate treatment results. Each prodigious drop of the Concentrate Collection is 3-5 times richer and more active than traditional extracts.
The superior 8 Series Concentrate Collection Range of serums can be integrated into an existing range, promoted for home care use, or utilised in a multi-dynamic delivery of specifically tailored treatments to significantly improve skin vitality, tone and elasticity. Each serum has its own specificity; the collection offers a homogenous layered penetration. The results are immediate and visible.
POWERFUL LEADING INGREDIENTS 㤵 㜵
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The highly concentrated extracts including actives such as Vitamin C, Hyaluronic Acid (three different molecular weights to target different skin needs), Permalan, Allantoin, Matrixyl 3000 (peptides), Vitamin A palmitate, Squalane, Tocopheryl acetate, Schisandra fruit extract, Inca Inchi oil, Macadamia Oil among other ingredients were selected and trialled from thousands of various plant life. Those that were selected were those that would exemplify the standards of the Mila d'Opiz research and development strict efficacy criteria, which meet with ISO international standard certification.
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For further information contact Mila d'Opiz phone: 1300 464 523 or email:
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info@boutiquemonique.com.au.
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advancedtherapy
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Collagen Induction Therapy and the Devil's Advocate By Teresa Russo One modality that is gaining incredible popularity and momentum in the aesthetic industry is skin needling. However, as is a common fact with just about every modality that experiences a boom in popularity there will always be those who will act recklessly and contribute negatively to its reputation, and skin needling as a practice is no exception. Teresa Russo is a highly qualified and experienced aesthetics practitioner and accomplished business-woman with two successful salons in Adelaide, South Australia. From 1974 she was professionally involved with pharmaceutical companies as a consultant and in the area of product formulations. Since 1992 she has owned and managed medispas and today runs her highly reputable aesthetic salons, Visible Changes, that are considered exemplary for their standards as well as advanced results. 㤵 㜵
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For over 10 years Teresa has also been consulted by insurance companies with regards to claims relating to beauty practices. As part of her responsibility she is required to review and assess claims that are submitted that related to skin treatments gone wrong. After thoroughly investigating them she is required to submit a report on the nature of the claim and comment as to whether, in her professional opinion, the incidents were accidental, due to negligence or due to inadequate training. In some instance she may be also required to appear in court and present her professional opinion for specific cases.
Recently, we spoke to her with regards to this matter as she told us that she is currently evaluating some claims with relating to skin needling that have gone wrong. We found some of the information very interesting and therefore asked Teresa if she would be prepared to share her views and opinions with us for the purpose of creating awareness and for identifying possible appropriate cautionary measures when undertaking this service. She accepted, providing she could maintain the confidentiality of the claims.
APJ1: Teresa, what incidents have you become aware of through inappropriate use of skin needling? Teresa: Currently I have two cases on my desk from an insurance company with regards to skin needling that have gone wrong. On a closer examination I have identified through before and after photographs evidence of keloid scarring that appeared only in the after photos and are present in the cheek areas, which is where the treatment was predominantly focused. Additionally, there was evidence of corrugated scarring that were definitely as a result of poor technique and insufficient understanding of the skin they were treating.
APJ2: To what do you attribute these incidents and what recommendations would you give in terms of training? Teresa: It was quite evident that these cases were due to the operator having a lack of adequate knowledge of the skin.
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One of the
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“therapists” only had qualifications in waxing, tinting and nails - she was totally unqualified to handling any skin treatments, let alone something as advanced as this. Furthermore, she had only received one-day training in needling.
APJ4: Explain to us the two levels of skin needling outcomes and what protocols should you put in place for both? Teresa: There are two levels of rollers. There are rollers with needle
To undertake such a procedure you need to not only have qualifications in beauty therapy, but also training in advanced skin analysis with a thorough understanding of ethnic skin types and how prone they are to keloid scarring. It is a well-known fact that darker skin types, for example, Hispanic and Greek ethnic groups, the skin is more prone to keloid scarring. With a limited knowledge of determining the safety parameters of various skin types these “therapists” undertook something they were unqualified to understand. Before undertaking such a treatment you need to carefully assess the client for evidence of scarring as well as how prone they are to other conditions such as melasma.
sizes of .05mm to 1mm depth that are used to assist in more effective product penetration that only penetrate to the epidermal layers and therefore assist ingredients to penetrate faster and deeper.
There appeared to be no evidence of infection, however, the corrugation suggested that the practitioners used too much pressure and did not take the necessary precautions for that skin type. Unfortunately keloids are irregularly shaped and tend to enlarge progressively. Unlike hypertrophic scars, keloids do not subside over time. Hypertrophic scars tend to be redder and may subside by themselves (a process that can take one year or more). Keloids, by contrast, may start sometime after the injury and extend beyond the wound site. This tendency to migrate into surrounding areas that weren't injured originally distinguishes keloids from hypertrophic scars. Keloids typically appear following surgery or injury, but they can also appear spontaneously or as a result of some slight inflammation and can be triggered after piercing, especially if the skin type is prone to them. In another case the client had “active acne” and was given by the salon Vitamin C in the form of Ascorbic Acid and a roller to take home and use to reduce the scarring. This was a 24-year-old girl and she ended up in hospital with septicaemia. In essence what she did was transfer from one location to another the active bacterial via the roller from the overactive and infected sebaceous glands, causing cystic acne through the blood-borne bacterial. The correct protocol would have been for the acne to be treated in the salon or through a healthcare practitioner until it was cleared, and then any treatment for the scarring should have been conducted and monitored in the salon prior to any home procedure recommendation.
APJ3: What guidelines would you recommend to someone wishing to purchase a skin needling device? Teresa: Prior to undertaking this type of treatment it is important that you have knowledge and experience in advanced skin analysis at the level that, say, Gay Wardle teaches, where physiology and histology are taught at much more advanced levels than is currently taught at colleges.
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You also need to understand cosmetic chemistry so that you can prepare the skin's immunity and introduce appropriate ingredients and protocols to stimulate the right collagen and growth factors prior to skin needling so that the skin is better prepared to undergo such a treatment. It is also important that you understand the integrity of the skin's pH to ensure it is restored. Additionally, you need to follow the appropriate health regulations as required by your State with regards to skin penetration as this is not a procedure without risk.
On the other hand, there are rollers that penetrate at 1.5mm to 2.5mm levels and can reach to the germinativum layer that interfaces with the dermis, as well as beyond to the dermis. This needle depth will therefore induce bleeding. For this reason there is a great deal more risk involved as you are engaging in a skin-penetration activity similar to cosmetic tattooing. You therefore need much more advanced training and you must follow very strict infection control protocols, both with the technique you use as well as the handling of the roller itself and its potential future use. It is therefore my professional opinion that this level of skin needling, which is considered as collagen induction therapy should be left to a medical practitioner, or at the very least must be overseen by a doctor.
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It is also my professional opinion that training in the use of skin needling and CIT should be more than one day. You need to understand how to use this tool safely and effectively and in order to do that you also need to clearly identify what you are trying to achieve with this treatment and the safety parameters of such a procedure. This should also include a thorough understanding the melanogenesis potential of the skin. Other considerations should also include determining if the client is pregnant, or on the pill, in other words their hormonal influences. What about their ethnic background? Such considerations will allow you to determine how to deliver such a treatment in a safe and efficacious way.
APJ5: What industry standards do you believe should be advocated and recommended for the safe and efficacious use of skin needling? Teresa: I must admit that with what my eyes have seen I would like to play the devil's advocate. I feel it is more appropriate for us to use roller depths that allow for better product penetration and leave the collagen induction therapy to the medical profession. While there is currently no law that would prohibit an aesthetic therapist undertaking CIT, we need to understand that we have a duty of care to our clients to make sure that whatever we do we are fully qualified to deliver. We also need to be mindful that insurance companies have a right to withdraw cover if they find out that the practitioner was not qualified or appropriately trained to deliver the service she was doing. With incidences like the ones I am witnessing, doctors will have good reason to lobby against us delivering this service. Therefore, it is important that whatever we undertake we carefully determine our qualifications and the level of training that will ensure that we can proceed with the procedure responsibly.
IN CONCLUSION Litigation is a very real phenomenon in today's world. Meanwhile, the introduction of new and more advanced techniques and technologies are constantly entering the market, often prior to any regulatory or safety consideration being legislated. However, this should not preclude us taking responsibility for what we deliver and practise. Indeed, any reputable Code of Ethics would include a clause that addresses the practitioner's responsibility to refrain from practising a procedure that she or he may not be qualified in. These are matters that should be carefully considered for the safety of our clients, as well as for the reputation of the practice.
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The Beauty of Skin Whitening By Daryll Knowles BPharm, MPS, AFACP, FPPF (Life), FAARM, OPM (Harvard) Ric Williams B.Sc. (Pure & Applied Chemistry (UNSW); Dip.Env.St (MaqU)
A clear white skin is an obsession for many cultures. This is because it epitomises youthfulness and beauty like nothing else. You can have a wrinkle-free face, but if there is discolouration and pigmentation this in itself will give the skin an aged look. When it comes to formulations Daryll Knowles and Ric Williams are considered some of Australia's best experts. They both hold not only impressive credentials, but also extensive experience in the field of chemistry and product formulation and efficacy. In this article they present their combined knowledge, taking a closer look at the science behind skin discolouration as well as identifying some of the latest exciting ingredients that are now available that can offer credible solutions in achieving skin whitening with the addition of antioxidant benefits.
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Skin whitening, skin lightening and skin bleaching refers to the practice of using chemical substances in an attempt to lighten the skin tone, or provide an even skin complexion by lessening the concentration of melanin. Several chemicals have been shown to be effective in skin whitening, while some have proved to be toxic or have questionable safety profiles, adding to the controversy surrounding their use and impacts on certain ethnic groups. Motives behind the use of skin-lightening products vary considerably between cultures. In many cultures skin whitening is pursued for aesthetic and cultural reasons. Generally speaking white skin is associated with beauty, aristocracy and wealth in some countries, while tanned skin suggested someone who engages in labouring
outdoor work. qualities.
Therefore whiter skin can project more refined
On the other hand, in countries such as Australia and the USA, there are completely different connotations – the popular aim is to look like a “healthy outdoor type” and here a darker “sun tanned” appearance (sometimes by artificial or natural skin tanning) is desired. Abnormalities in pigmentation pose not only an aesthetic problem, but also a dermatological issue, and frequently produce considerable distress in the client. Skin-pigmentation disorders occur because the body produces either too much or too little melanin, a pigment that creates hair, skin and eye colour. Disorders causing excess melanin are known as hyperpigmentary or hypermelanotic diseases. Disorders causing reduction in melanin or loss of melanin are known as hypopigmentary or hypomelanotic.
THERE ARE THREE MAIN FACTORS THAT CONTRIBUTE TO THE COLOUR OF SKIN: 1. A background natural yellowish-white colour comes from the dermis and epidermal cells 2. A red to blue tone is provided by the superficial blood vessels in the skin. Intensity and colour is governed by – The number of blood vessels, their state of dilation and proximity of the blood vessels to the surface determines the red/blue colour intensity. – The degree of oxygenation of the blood determines which colour hue is achieved – red or blue. 3. The most important is the amount of carotenes (red/yellow) and melanin (black/brown) in the cells.
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MELANIN Human skin colour is primarily due to the presence of melanin in the skin. The photochemical properties of melanin make it an excellent
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photo-protectant. This is because it efficiently absorbs harmful UVradiation (ultraviolet) and transforms the energy into harmless heat. This occurs by means of a process called "ultrafast internal conversion". This property enables melanin to dissipate more than 99.9% of the absorbed UV radiation as heat. This helps prevent the indirect DNA damage that is responsible for the formation of malignant melanoma and other skin cancers. However, the lighter the colour of skin is due to less melanin and is the case with Caucasians living in lower latitude areas, as they are relatively unprotected and suffer from a higher incidence of skin cancer. Mammalian skin produces three types of melanin: Eumelanin, pheomelanin and neuromelanin, as well as mixed melanin.
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Eumelanin is found in hair, areola and skin, and the hair colours grey, black, yellow and brown. In humans, it is more abundant in people with dark skin. Pheomelanin is also found in hair and skin and is both in lighterskinned humans and darker-skinned humans. Pheomelanin imparts a pink to red hue and, thus, is found in particularly large quantities in red hair. Pheomelanin is particularly concentrated in the lips, nipples, the penis, and vagina. Neuromelanin is the dark pigment present in pigment-bearing neurons of mainly four deep brain nuclei, and is of little interest here.
caused by years of sun exposure and are due to the skin's diminishing ability to regenerate itself after sun exposure. They are also known as sun spots, liver spots, lentigos or senile/solar lentigines. They are usually harmless and are only a cosmetic concern.
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STEPS TO SKIN LIGHTENING To lighten a normal skin tone it is important to slow melanin production in the future. This should be done by slowing melanogenisis. It is also important to reduce UV exposure through avoidance of the sun or to wear broad-spectrum sunscreen. If hyperpigmentation is present existing spots and discolourations need to be erased first. This process can be sped up through exfoliation. Bringing new cells to the surface faster aids in absorption of treatment products and stimulates collagen and elastin. This, however, may not be permanent as hyperpigmentation may return due to hormonal or inherited causes.
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SKIN-LIGHTENING PRODUCTS Traditionally in the salon specific ingredients are used to inhibit melanogenisis and to lighten or bleach the skin. Some traditional ingredients although effective can also be toxic to the skin and must therefore be used with caution. The good news is that we now have some incredible new ingredient innovations that can allow us to get excellent results without the toxic issue of past ingredients. Below we look at the broad arsenal of ingredients currently in use and identify also new ingredients that are coming on the market.
MELANIN PRODUCTION PATHWAY This is the skin's mechanism of photo-protection whereby the production of melanin increases skin colour and is seen in skin colouring based on ethnic origins.
HYDROQUINONE AND ARBUTIN Traditionally 5-10% Hydroquinone on a cream or serum form has been used. Hydroquinone interrupts the production of melanin by inhibiting the tyrosinase enzyme. It will take a couple of weeks to take effect, however, it may have many adverse effects. First, when treatment is ceased pigmentation returns almost immediately (within 7-28 days). It is also quite irritating and warnings are issued to alert sensitive patients. Hydroquinone creams are unstable as they discolour as with age. Last, there are regulatory concerns regarding toxicity and 510% Hydroquinone is restricted to pharmacy only compounding. Arbutin is a derivative of hydroquinone that is more stable, although more expensive. Sources include bearberry and mulberry extracts.
KOJIC ACID
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Fig. 1 above: MC1R control of pigment type switching. The POMC precursor is cleaved to give the a-MSH/ACTH ligands for the MC1R receptor which activates the PKA/cAMP pathway. MC1R signalling induces the maturation of the henomelanosome containing the TYR molecule to the eumelanosome containing all the melanogenic enzymes, with the possible active transport of tyrosine or cysteine indicated by the boxed question marks. Institute for Molecular Bioscience, University of Queensland, R.A. Sturm.
AGE SPOTS Age spots can come in many different shapes and sizes. They are red/brown spots on the skin typically found on the hands, face, shoulders, arms and forehead, and the head if bald. The spots are
A fungi-derived metabolic product, kojic acid inhibits the activity of tyrosinase, which is the essential enzyme in the biosynthesis of the skin-pigment melanin. Kojic acid is used in concentrations ranging from 1-4%. Although effective as a skin-lightening gel, it has been reported to have high sensitising potential and may cause irritant contact dermatitis. Kojic acid is banned for commercial use in Australia.
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TETRAHYDROCURCUMIN Tetrahydrocurcumin is a colour-free natural extract derived from Curcuma longa (Turmeric) roots, which is a major metabolite of curcumin (the yellow pigment of turmeric) in the body. Laboratory studies revealed that this material is an effective skin-lightening agent
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with multifunctional topical benefits such as acting as an antioxidant and having anti-inflammatory effects. The extract is safe for topical use with no irritant or sensitisation side-effects. Use levels range from 0.1 to 2% w/w; typically 0.25%.
DIPOTASSIUM GLYCYRRHIZATE
Recommended dose is 4-8% and applications include lightening, skin-tone equalising, age-spot correction and skin illumination.
OLIGOPEPTIDE-68 The Oligopeptide-68 is a new biomimetic peptide encapsulated in phospholipids liposome with higher activity than arbutin and vitamin C and proven efficiency on Asian skin, with optimal whitening and lightening seen within 28 days. Oligopeptide-68 decreases pigmentation and melanin synthesis by decreasing proteins involved in the pigmentation process such as MITF, TPR-1, TPR-2 and tyrosinase and inhibiting tyrosinase activity.
Active ingredient from Glycyrrhiza glabra (Licorice), or Gan Cao. This skin-conditioning agent works to improve the appearance of dry/damaged skin by reducing flaking and restoring suppleness, and also functions as an anti-irritant with anti-inflammatory and skinsoothing capabilities. Furthermore, studies suggest it may also inhibit the skin's tyrosinase activity and melanin production, making it a potential lightening/brightening agent that prevents hyperpigmentation. UVB-induced pigmentation and erythema can be inhibited by topical 0.5% this active. Further studies have shown it to help reduce the redness and irritation commonly associated with various ailments such as rosacea, psoriasis and acne.
Recommended dose 2.5-5% (intensive whitening), 1-2.5% (corrective care and age-spot), 0.5-1% (lightening and skin illumination), 1% (if combined with an exfoliant), with recommended applications being skin whitening, age-spots, skin tone, photo-ageing, brightening and anti-ageing.
FUCOIDANS
DIACETYL-BOLDINE
Fucus vesiculosus is a novel, polyphenol-rich fucoidan extract (purified from sea kelp) developed specifically for skin-whitening applications. Fucoidan extracts have various activities depending on source. Those growing naturally in the crystal-clear waters of Nova Scotia, Tasmania and New Zealand have skin-lightening and antiwrinkle effect. Fucoidans found in Patagonia are high in anti-oxidant activity. Fucus vesiculosus is an effective, natural alternative to the existing ingredients used to lighten skin tone.
Diacetyl Boldine (DAB) works via α-adrenergic antagonist receptors and calcium flow regulation. Tyrosinase is not directly inhibited by competition, but is stabilised in its inactive form. It inhibits the activity of tyrosinase; fades aged spots; enhances the skin's luminosity and clarity; creates a homogenous and even-toned complexion. Recommended use level 4%. In an Asian skin trial 90% of volunteers showed a reduction of hyperpimentation, 75% showed increase in brightness and 80% showed improvement in clarity. In a pigmentation trial 23.5% reduction in facial pigmentation, 17% on arms.
THERMUS THERMOPHILUS PEPTIDE (TTP)
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TTP is obtained from the fermentation of the bacterium Thermus thermophiles, found in the Pacific Ocean Guaymas Basin (Gulf of California). An anti-ageing ingredient that helps prevent visible signs of photo-ageing (spots, wrinkles, dryness) and protects cell structures from UV damage and protects skin integrity, by providing much stronger protection to the skin than common antioxidants such as vitamin E.
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This biomimetic peptide is an antagonist specific to the α-MSH that prevents hyper-production of melanin. It competes against the natural ligand (α-MSH) on its specific receptor (MC1-R) and prevents any further activation of the tyrosinase, thus blocking melanin synthesis. Its whitening activity is proven, within 14 days, on Asian skin.
DIMETHYIMETHOLXY CHROMANYL PALMITATE Dimethyimetholxy Chromanyl Palmitate is a safe whitening agent. Proven in vivo, it inhibits melanin formation through tyrosinase inhibition. Its efficacy is noticeably higher than Arbutin, Kojic Acid and Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, and similar to Hydroquinone but with no cytotoxicity. Dimethyimetholxy Chromanyl Palmitate is a synthetic peptide that inhibits tyrosinase activity. Visible results in the lightening and brightening of skin tone, clarity and radiance, as well as reduction in blotchiness and discolorations can be seen within 30 to 60 days.
EXFOLIANTS, PEELS AND LASERS The mechanism of action of chemical peels agents is to accelerate epidermal turnover and remove melanised keratinocytes, leading to
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loss of melanin granules. Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation is the most common complication, especially in dark-skinned individuals. Other adverse reactions include post-peel erythema, infection and aggravation of melasma. Exfoliants such as alpha-hydroxy acids have been shown to lighten melasma, solar lentigines and postinflammatory hyperpigmentation. Herbal peels are also an excellent alternative as they work from within the skin to activate exfoliation, while also supporting skin regeneration. The treatment of hyperpigmentation with laser techniques is a fastgrowing field. Lasers function by emitting a monochromic, highintensity, coherent energy source that is absorbed by water, hemoglobin and melanin in the skin, referred to as chromophores. The absorption of energy destroys the chromophores. The wavelength of the laser dictates the depth of laser penetration and the chromophores targeted. Adverse effects from laser treatment include discomfort, redness, mild swelling, and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. Patients should always have a test spot performed before a full treatment. A recent derivative of laser treatment is intense pulsed light, in which high-intensity pulses of a broad wavelength (515-1200 nm) of light deliver energy to the skin. The energy of intense pulsed light is delivered to the dermis and is absorbed by the chromophores. Intense pulsed light has been shown to work well for the treatment of lentigines, but the therapy has not been optimised for the treatment of melasma.
IN CONCLUSION Skin colour and uniformity is an important attribute of beauty and is of great concern for many people. Demand for treatment products to lighten skin, equalise skin tone, illuminate the skin or treat pigmentation disorders such as age spots, freckles and pregnancy marks are booming. The new generation of skin-whitening ingredients are also growing rapidly, with only a very small range being mentioned here. Modern whitening ingredients tend to have lower rates of sensitisation, irritation and side-effects than many of the traditional skin-whitening ingredients. Some even have secondary benefits to the skin such as antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and skin-soothing properties.
REFERENCES: These references only reflect a third of the scientific papers relating to this article. Should you require the complete list please email the editor on info@apanetwork.com and request them.
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• Azzi A, Ricciarelli R, Zingg JM (2002). Non-antioxidant molecular functions of -tocopherol (vitamin E). FEBS Lett. 519 (1 3): 810. • Barton DE, Kwon BS, Francke U (1988). Human tyrosinase gene, mapped to chromosome 11 (q14-q21), defines second region of homology with mouse chromosome 7. Genomics 3: 1724. • Brigelius-Flohe R, Kelly, FJ, Salonen JT, Neuzil J, Zingg JM, Azzi A (2002). The European perspective on vitamin E: current knowledge and future research. Am. J. Clin. Nutr. 76 (4): 703716.
• Budd PS, Jackson IJ (1995). Structure of the mouse tyrosinase-related protein2/dopachrome tautomerase (Tyrp2/Dct) gene and sequence of two novel slaty alleles. Genomics 29: 3543. • Eberle AN, Bodi J, Orosz G, Suli-Vargha H, Jaggin V, Zumsteg U (2001). Antagonist and agonist activities of the mouse agouti protein fragment (91131) a the melanocortin1 receptor. J. Recep. Sig. 392 Afr. J. Biochem. Res. Trans. Res. 21: 25-45. • Fang D, Tsuji Y, Setaluri V (2002). Selective down regulation of tyrosinase family gene TYRP1 by inhibition of the activity of elanocyte transcription factor, MITF. Nucl. Acids Res. 30: 3096-3106, 33: 87-91. • Tripathi RK, Hearing VJ, Urabe K, Aroca P, Spritz RA (1992). Mutational mapping of the catalytic activities of human tyrosinase. J. Biol. Chem. 267: 2370723712. • Weber C, Podda M, Rallis M, Thiele JJ, Traber MG, Packer L (1997). Efficacy of topically applied tocopherols and tocotrienols in protection of murine skin from oxidative damage induced by UV-irradiation. Free Radic. Biol. Med. 22: 761-769. • Zingg JM (2007). Modulation of signal transduction by vitamin E. Mol. Aspects Med. 28: 481506.
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Daryll Knowles BPharm, MPS, AFACP, FPPF (Life), ASCC, FAARM, OPM (Harvard) is the owner of Australian Custom Pharmaceuticals, Australia's largest compounding-only pharmacy. Daryll graduated Sydney University with a Bachelor of Pharmacy (1980) and now has over 30 years’ compounding experience. He is also a graduate of PCCA Aseptic Techniques and Primary Training Course (Houston, Texas). He is fellow of A5M AntiAgeing, Regenerative and Functional Medicine and a graduate of Harvard Business School (HBS). He holds numerous affiliations to pharmaceutical societies and is a board member of A5M. Daryll is the CEO and Chairman of the Board of NxGen Group Pty. Ltd. Ric Williams BSc, Dip Env St holds a Bachelor of Science in Pure and Applied Chemistry from the University of New South Wales and a Diploma of Environmental Studies from Macquarie University. He has 40 years’ experience in the industry after working for various companies, and was a Council Member of the Australian Society of Cosmetic Chemists for a total of 14 years. He is currently on their Technical Committee for which he has served since 1985. Ric is currently a committee member (formulation expert) on the Cosmetic Advisory Committee to the director of NICNAS (a division of the Federal Department of Health). Ric Williams brings a world of therapeutic, veterinary and cosmeceutical chemistry knowledge to the NxGen Formulations operations. NxGen Pharmaceuticals is a fully integrated service in Product Research and Development. NxGen Pharmaceuticals offers a complete, one-stop shop in the design, development and testing of all forms of new products for the Pharmaceutical, Cosmeceutical, Personal Care and Veterinary Industries.
JYUNKA Anti-Ageing No Empty Promises
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SIMPLY UNBEATABLE AWESOME, STUNNING RESULTS
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JYUNKA AUSTRALIA Phone 03 9821 0355 email: enquiry@jyunka.com.au, www.jyunka.com.au
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THE THEORY OF QUANTUM PHYSICS and its implications in AESTHETICS Part 1 By Lynette Rouse I begin this article by saying that the world of Quantum mechanics in the aesthetic approach has existed for centuries; however, there is a limited comprehension of quantum and this dynamic realm within our industry. In understanding some basic principles it offers the reader enlightenment to penetrate one’s perception so that you can advance beyond your current status of possibilities. Dr Wayne Dyer, internationally renowned author and speaker in the field of selfdevelopment, stated that when you change the way you look at things you are looking at change.
WHAT IS QUANTUM PHYSICS?
which the universe is made up of – matter just like a machine composed of atomic particles to form matter with a physical result. However, in 1925 this new emerging theory proposed that the universe is actually made up of energy. This theory re-established a new view of how the universe exists, quantum physics or quantum mechanics. So quantum physics or quantum mechanics is the theoretical basis of modern physics that explains the nature and behaviour of matter and energy on the atomic and subatomic levels. The universe as we know is full of matter that hold it together, so it could be said that quantum physics is the study of the behaviour of
Quantum physics is a branch of science that deals with discrete, invisible units of energy called quanta, as described by the Quantum Theory.
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“Quantum” comes from the Latin meaning “how much”. It refers to discrete units of matter and energy that are predicted by and observed in quantum physics. Even space and time, which appear to be extremely continuous, have smallest possible values. “Quanta” meaning short for, for example, “quanta of electricity” (or electron), was introduced in 1902 in an article on the photoelectric effect by Philipp Lenard, who credited Hermann von Helmholtz for using the word in the area of electricity. However, the word quantum in general was well known before 1900. In the early 20th century it was discovered that the laws that govern macroscopic objects do not function the same in such small realms. The year of 1925 birthed a new theory as quantum mechanics emerged. Newtonian physics/mechanics refers to quantum as that
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matter and energy at the molecular, atomic, nuclear and even smaller microscopic levels.
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Einstein's theory on relativity works on the principles of gravity. The universe is governed by four forces, gravity is one, electromagnetic another. However, as humanity has expanded its horizons to see things vastly smaller, faster, larger and further than before, it has been forced to confront preconceptions born of the human experience and create wholly new ways of looking at the world. Theories of relativity and quantum physics show how these ideas have led to amazing advances in understanding the universe. When I moved from Victoria to Runaway Bay I perceived that I lived in Runaway Bay, my friends considered that I now lived on the Gold Coast and my mother considered that I lived in Queensland, so I lived in one place, but still in three places at one time. Quantum physics is just like this, except in this example it is not so confusing because the boundaries are defined and were placed by man. Quantum physics is just like this example, with the exception of the man-made boundary lines. Some researchers such as Dr Masaru Emoto have observed that energy, especially thought energy, can impact the physical properties of matter such as water. Early experiments showed that water purity directly impacted its frozen form. Building on this discovery, further tests involved introducing water to extraneous variables, such as music, prayer, concentrated thought and the written word (e.g. the Bible). To avoid inconsistencies Emoto used the most neutral form of water possible, distilled water. The water, Emoto notes, responded differently yet consistently to the various stimuli. For example frozen water placed next to heavy metal music continually froze in a shattered-like appearance. Water placed next to Mozart classical symphony froze in the shape of a snow-flake. Then the focus was placed on other specific water samples. Once again the results were consistent when the water was frozen. Negative thoughts caused the water to freeze in a shattered-like formation where positive thoughts consistently created complex snowflake patterns. It is Emoto's hope that since some people struggle to believe what they cannot see that this extensive research and photographs will give people some physical evidence that there may be more intriguing forces at work in the universe than many of us know about and that we may use these forces by embracing positive thoughts and exhibiting high levels of emotion such as love and gratitude. However, commentators have criticised Emoto for insufficient experimental controls and for not sharing enough details of his approach with the scientific community. However, subsequent independent studies have supported his theories.
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In quantum physics you can build an entire theory of light travelling in little particles called photons and you can perform experiments that show light is travelling by particles. We now have a mathematical theory showing that light travels in waves and experiments that show light travels as waves. One scientist in the early 1900s said it looks as though the light is waiting for us to do the experiment and then decide how it is going to travel. The modified Copenhagen view states that light is neither particles nor waves until we look and then it adjusts itself depending upon what we are looking at it with.
WHAT IS QUANTUM MEDICINE? So now that we have a very basic perception of the possibilities in the quantum realm we can perhaps gain a further understanding of existing current and future technologies and methods of treatment in
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medicine and in our own aesthetic world. In lasers every atom and molecule emits energy and every atom and molecule receives energy. Every atom is giving a frequency of energy. In our bodies every atom is giving off and receiving energy. A bolt meter reader will show us that each atom has a unique vibrational characteristic and it broadcasts it because the energy travels throughout the environment. In old science books we read about atoms with density weight and structure, now in new quantum physics we read about an atom's electrical charges. We read about its bolts. Atoms are measured by
bolts. Atoms have waves of frequency energy so each atom is vibrating a certain frequency so it’s not only emitting a frequency, atoms can also receive a frequency because energy can be absorbed by other energy. So looking at the spectrum in your chemistry books, atomic spectrum, Hydrogen, Helium, Mercury and Uranium showed measure in colour and we know that colour has frequency. What we now understand is that each atom has its own vibrational frequency and energy, so we can read frequency and understand matter through its frequency. Although medicine is still to fully recognise the field of quantum energy, medicine uses all the quantum physic devices that read energy. Cat Scans, MRIs, imaging technologies all work on the principle of reading the energy levels in the body. So the relevance is this; there is an understanding that the CAT scan will identify the tissue where cancer is present and they can identify this because the
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energy emitted by those cells is different from all the other energy.
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Currently, we know that there are two universities, the University of Pennsylvania in the USA and Melbourne University in Australia, that present human biology in relation to cellular frequencies. Since those early days there have been further studies that explore the theory of quantum physics, and you can find several through the world wide web and the Internet.
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In these studies a normal brain frequency (head) is identified as having approximately 72-78 Hz, Visionary Range 120 MHz, Bone 38-43 MHz, Thyroid and Parathyroid glands 62-68 Hz, Heart 65-68, Lungs 58-65, Liver 55-60Hz, Pancreas 60-80 Hz, Stomach 59-60 Hz Ascending colon 58-60Hz and the descending colon 58-63Hz. So if the frequency changes, say it drops four points then this is when a headache will start. Disease begins, like the cold symptoms at 58 Hz, Cancer can set in at 48 Hz, and Death begins at 20 Hz. So we understand that cells have frequencies.
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QUANTUM AND AESTHETICS We now understand that quantum physics is the sub-atomic or microscopic particles that hold something together. An example of this can be seen in using the incredible voice of the legendary Ella Fitzgerald who could sing a certain octave note and at a certain note the sound would impact the atoms and sub-atomic particles of a crystal goblet and it would actually explode. In the crystal the atoms are all vibrating and spinning at a certain frequency, and although the atoms are aligned in structure and connected by atomic bonds they are also each individually vibrating where they are, while still maintaining the structure. If we take a tuning fork and tune it to the same frequency as the atoms that surround it the energy of the tuning fork will radiate outwards, and if the atoms are complimentary harmonically resonating then the atoms will absorb the energy. Therefore, if we tune the tuning fork to match the frequency of the atoms the atoms absorb the energy and vibrate faster and faster, and with so much extra energy in the atoms, eventually they will no longer to hold together and will explode until the structure is completely gone. Quantum physics is that which holds something together and the reality is that energy effects matter. One common correlation in aesthetics can be observed in the field of optic technologies. When pulse light or laser light is emitted into a cellular structure to achieve a certain result, at a sub-atomic or microbiological level, the same principles of that which holds
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something together can apply. In a resting state the photons of laser light have no cause to their target tissue, however when excited by sub-atomic particles of energy their effect when emitted into selected biological tissue causes necrosis to the cell. Of course, there needs to be selective principles for this to occur; the right spectrum colour is required and the selected amount of energy is required for the specific cellular components to be able to absorb the energy for the end result to reach cellular necrosis. If we view the light it is the same principle of that which holds together which is sub-atomic particles of energy. If we look at the way that say, Collagen Induction Therapy through the theory of quantum principles, we will observe that the stimulus to the skin cell is initially caused by a penetration from the needle. It is this stimulus, the micro-sub atomic quanta of energy that alters the energy outside and inside the cell causing a change in the gated channels of the cell membrane, which then releases growth factors that then causes a result. The principles of traditional Chinese Medicine understand the dynamics of quantum physics developing herbal medicines imprinted with energy that will assist changes to biological cellular structures. In the Middle East it is well known that Rose Water is amazing for the body because the frequency of rose petals is around 350 Hz. It is a common practice to place rose petals into alkaline water which then heightens the vibration of their alkaline water at a dramatic rate. According to quantum physics matter is not the end point, energy is the end point and as we have observed energy holds atoms together. In the next article we will look at how we can improve our business dynamics and our therapy outcomes through a greater awareness of quantum physics in relation to frequencies and the cell corresponding with ingredients and nutrition. So in summary, quantum is the cellular activity that exists at sub-atomic levels, which goes beyond our normal thought patterns and physical realms. I challenge and encourage you to dare to perceive things differently. By changing our thinking in line with new evidence we may in fact change our future through a fresh new perspective on how to develop or unlock potential, while possibly improving ones life and reaching our goals.
In closing let us consider that our thoughts shape your life. Faith is a thought that can shape and alter our life. When faith becomes a reality the potential for an action to cause a result becomes a possibility.
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Are you considering a PRICE INCREASE? Key considerations for a smooth transitions without alienating your clients By Tina Viney One question that I am regularly asked by members is “I need to increase my prices, but is this safe in this financial climate or will I alienate my clients?” This is a very important but tricky question to answer, as the answer will depend on how the change will affect your market. Here are some key considerations that may help you make the right decision.
EFFECTIVE COMMUNICATION If you communicate with your clients the reasons why it is necessary to increase your prices this will assist you not to alienate them. Make every effort to help them understand why the increase is necessary, such as improving standards and the quality of your services. If they believe that with the increase they will be getting a better product or service that may be justifiable to them.
REVIEW YOUR OPTIONS Before you make the decision to put up your prices, you need to make sure there's nothing you can do internally to absorb increasing costs. Have a look at your cost base to see where you can make some cuts, and do a review of your suppliers to ensure their pricing is still competitive. Once you're satisfied that you've done everything you can inside your business, you need to have a think about how much you need to increase your prices to cover your costs, and how much you have at risk by taking this action. 㤵 㜵
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Put yourself in your clients' shoes and ask yourself the following questions that will help you assess the risk and how best to prepare yourself for the market response: ! How valuable are your services and products to your clients in order to accept a price rise? ! How readily available are your products and services through neighboring salons or the Internet? ! How will your new prices compare to your competitors’ and how easy is it for your customers to get up and walk down the road to get more competitive rates?
It is also good to mention that you have as much as possible absorbed mounting costs within your business, but you are not prepared to compromise standards to maintain cheaper prices. Being honest and transparent is the best way to communicate price increases, but take caution not to get too carried away. The last thing you want to do is worry your customers into thinking your business is vulnerable and won't be around for the long haul.
OPPORTUNITY TO ADJUST TO THE NEW PRICES Give them enough lead-time to plan for the increase and make sure you answer any questions they may have. Before the price rise it is good to also offer a Promotional Special to give them the opportunity to benefit before the changes are implemented. That way they will feel that you are looking after them. By taking a few simple precautions you can transition into the price increases and improve your bottom line without alienating your loyal clients.
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How LICORICE can benefit the skin By Tina Viney When it comes to active ingredients for the skin who would have thought that the flavorsome and sweet delight of licorice would also offer the skin great benefits? But while new ingredients are being identified to enhance skin treatment results, the old and trusted licorice still holds its position, and so we decided to feature it as our “Key Ingredient” for this issue.
WHAT IS LICORICE? Licorice is a plant native to parts of Europe and China. Its extract has been used for hundreds of years, as tea and as flavoring. Licorice is obtained from the root of Glycyrrhia Glabra Linneva.
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In terms of skin conditions licorice root extract is used to reduce inflammation and help soothe irritated skin, but much of the research on this plant has been focused on its skin whitening properties. Licorice also contains antioxidants and antiinflammatory compounds that are used in the successful treatment of eczema and rosacea as well as for skin-whitening. The primary antioxidant and anti-
inflammatory compounds found in licorice root are the glycosides – glycyrrhizin and glycyrrizinic acid, flavonoids, and saponins.
HOW DOES LICORICE BENEFIT THE SKIN? When it comes to the skin the key beneficial property of licorice is its ability to lighten the skin. The glabridin compound found in licorice does this by suppressing the formation of melanin, the pigment responsible for skin discolouration. For this reason licorice is used extensively as a skin-lightening cosmeceutical, but it is also used in the treatment of a wide variety of diseases even outside the scope of dermatology due to its antioxidant anti-inflammatory, antiviral, antimicrobial, and anticarcinogenic properties.
RESEARCH VALIDATES BENEFITS OF COMPOUNDS FOUND IN LICORICE Over the years there have been numerous studies conducted in the properties of licorice specifically for its use in skincare formulations.
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In the early 1990s, Japanese scientists
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isolated certain compounds in licorice useful for their beneficial properties on the skin. Glabridin was identified as a powerful skin whitening ingredient, glabrene as an antioxidant as strong as natural Vitamin E, and licochalcone as a highly effective anti-acne compound, which controls both excessive sebum production and harmful bacteria. Licochalcone is also a mild sunscreen effective against the UVA and UVB rays of the sun that contribute to skin-protective properties. In fact it is glabridin that has been identified to have hydrophobic action and has been shown to prevent UVB-induced pigmentation and to inhibit tyrosinase activity, superoxide anion production and cyclo-oxygenase activity. The de-pigmenting efficacy of glabridin has been shown by various researchers to be greater than that of hydroquinone. In cultured B16 murine melanoma cells, it has been proven to inhibit tyrosinase activity at concentrations from 0.1 to 1.0 g ml-1, without affecting DNA synthesis. This suggests an influence of glabridin extract on both melanogenesis and inflammation of the skin.
ACTIONS OF FLAVONOIDS ON PIGMENTATION A further study also identified some very interesting findings with regards to the active compounds found in licorice, which were also noteworthy. In this study five different flavonoids were isolated from licorice to identify and characterise the active components in licorice as new tyrosinase inhibitors for depigmenting agents.
The isolated flavonoids were identified as liquiritin, licuraside, isoliquiritin, liquiritigenin and licochalcone A, which is a type of phenol. All these flavonoids are competitive inhibitors. Liquiritin has no effect on tyrosinase; however, it causes depigmentation by other mechanisms, like melanin dispersion and removal, and studies demonstrate that a 20% liquiritin cream applied at one gram per day for four weeks is therapeutically effective in melasma. In the study liquiritigenin was shown to activate the monophenolase activity as a cofactor. On the other hand the inhibitory effect of licuraside, isoliquiritin and licochalcone A on diphenolase activity with L-DOPA as the substrate was much lower than that with L-tyrosine and were shown to have great potential for use as depigmenting agents. In this study it was observed that glabrene and isoliquiritigenin (2′,4′,4trihydroxychalcone) in the licorice extract can inhibit both mono and diphenolase tyrosinase activities, and these effects on tyrosinase activity were dose-dependent and correlated to their ability to inhibit melanin formation in melanocytes.
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In another study, a combination of licorice extract (0.4%), betamethasone (0.05%) and retinoic acid (0.05%) yielded an excellent skin lightening response in up to 70% of patients and topical application of 0.5% glabridin inhibited UVBinduced erythema and pigmentation in the skin. A further study of a Glycyrrhiza uralensis extract was performed by measuring the inhibitory activity of tyrosinase and melanin synthesis, which was shown to have no detectable effect on their DNA synthesis. Glycyrrhisoflavone and glyasperin C were identified as tyrosinase inhibitors for the first time. Glyasperin C showed a stronger tyrosinase inhibitory activity than glabridin and a moderate inhibition of melanin production and could make it a promising candidate in the design of skin-whitening agents. The combined analysis of SDS-polyacrylamide gel electrophoresis and DOPA staining on the large granule fraction of these cells disclosed that glabridin specifically decreased the activities of T1 and T3 tyrosinase isozymes. It was also shown that UVB-induced pigmentation and erythema in the skins of guinea-pigs were inhibited by topical applications of 0.5% glabridin. While licorice has been proven to be highly effective, best results in skin whitening have been achieved when it is combined in synergy with other ingredients such as vitamin C and Kojic acid.
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Further clinical studies are needed to evaluate the efficacy of licorice root extract in the treatment of pigmentary disorders, however, current studies are very encouraging and this will most likely lead to ongoing extensive research to identify the most effective way of utilising the active compounds and flavinoids found in licorice in skincare formulations. Licorice is therefore an ingredient worth looking out for.
REFERENCE:
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http://www.skinwhiteningscience.com/top_skin_whitenin g_agents_top_20_licorice.html
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BUSINESS IN BRIEF
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A snapshot of news and information for business owners ㈵
Future of Australian retail – positive and exciting? Beyond the debates about the impact of technology and globalisation, Australian retail faces a critical turning point: a need to bring back excitement and positive experiences. “Like any industry, retail wants to attract the best and brightest – there is a crucial problem with talent management and the skills needed to create ongoing positive service experiences,” suggests Brett Whitford, UTS adjunct professor and executive director of the Customer Service Institute of Australia. With such a backdrop, a panel of experts explored the challenges facing Australian retailers on Wednesday, 15 August at the University of Technology, Sydney. Moderated by Whitford, attendees heard from fashion designer and retailer Carla Zampatti AC; Margy Osmond, Chief Executive of the
APAN offer best interest rates for Merchant Services In a bid to secure cost-saving measures for its members APAN has negotiated a Master Plan with Suncorp Bank with exceptional savings. Monthly fees are just $12 for counter-top credit card facilities, which is substantially lower than other banks. Additionally, regardless as to whether your clients are using Gold or Platinum cards with Mastercard or Visa you will only incur a flat fee of 0.79 of a per cent. This is a substantial saving as many other banks will charge you substantially extra, some as high as 1.35 per cent, depending on the nature of the card. This can be misleading if your bank has sold you on a lower rate. Reading the fine print is essential, as when these extra charges kick in
Survey confirms Clear Skin is a Priority Issue 㤵 㜵
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Australians are more concerned about clear skin than about their waistlines, according to a survey conducted by the Cosmetic Physicians Society of Australasia (CPSA) and their cosmetic medicine website Costhetics. The survey found when it comes to our appearance, Australians are more concerned about their skin tone and texture than they are about their weight. The CPSA survey revealed skin tone and texture, such as redness, sun spots, freckles, pigmentation and complexion, were the most concerning aspects of appearance for the majority of respondents. The appearance of fine lines ranked second among those surveyed, followed by loss of volume in the face and weight, which were voted equal third.
Australian National Retailers Association; and Andy Hedges, Director of Shopping Centre Management, Westfield.
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“Modern retail has its roots in the industrial revolution, so how can we make this globalised sector more relevant to today's high-tech society and more appealing to a new generation of talent? “However, despite some gloom and doom, we do see great companies emerging through product and technology innovation, and by their ability to create compelling customer experiences,” said Whitford. Likewise in the skincare industry it is estimated that new product developments will boom in 2013 as new technological innovations and fierce competition has resulted in some amazing new product advances. Meanwhile, according to IBIS World retail personal care products will experience a 1.7% increase in Australia in 2013 and a robust 28.7% growth in personal services.
they can amount to much higher costs over a 12-month period. For example, for a package deal of treatments valued at $3000 your credit payment of 1.35% would be $40.50 compared to a secured rate of 0.79% when your fee would be $23.70, that is a saving of $16.80 in just one transaction. “If you sold 300 packages in a 12-month period, you would save $5040 that is a substantial sum of money,” Tina Viney, CEO of APAN, said. “It is all these little costs that cumulatively amount to higher business costs. As a rule we save members approximately $3000 to $5000 per year through special deals that we negotiate with our strategic partners.”
Respondents aged 21 to 30 nominated skin tone as their number one concern. “While the survey results may surprise some, they're consistent with what CPSA doctors see in their practices. Often, poor quality skin tone, such as blotchy skin, redness and sunspots, can be even more ageing than wrinkles, which explains why skin tone rated so highly among respondents,” Dr. Susan Austin from CPSA says. CPSA members report some of the most prevalent skin-related conditions that Australians present for treatment include acne, Rosacea and pigmentation disorders.
For more information on the CPSA survey visit www.cosmeticphysicians.org.au
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Insolvencies down 22% – Can we thank the ATO?
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The number of businesses going into administration has fallen dramatically compared to the same time last year, prompting insolvency practitioners to speculate that the Australian Tax Office has changed its approach or cleared its backlog.
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Statistics published in August by the Australian Securities and Investment Commission record 799 companies entering into external administration in June this year compared to 1,027 for the same month last year, a fall of 22.2%. ASIC senior executive leader Adrian Brown said the fall contrasted with a backdrop of relatively high insolvency appointments overall. JP Downey & Co principal Jim Downey says the fall in insolvencies is not surprising. "Anecdotally around the insolvency practitioners, the rumour is that a lot of them are quieter than they have been for a while. I'm not sure why, but it could be the direct result of the ATO backing off a bit or even the banks not making so many appointments," he says. "Some of the visibility is reduced in recent times as ASIC has set up its own insolvency website where practitioners advertise appointments and meetings of creditors. You used to see it all in the papers, but now it is not as easily seen.” Cliff Sanderson, liquidator at Dissolve, thinks the drop may be attributable to the ATO finally getting through a backlog of insolvencies it has been dealing with following the GFC. "For the past couple of years the ATO has been relatively understanding of companies, which have difficulties paying their tax debts," he says.
"After the global financial crisis the ATO went very light on companies and was extremely understanding and that went on for a couple of years. But 18 months ago it started tightening up, so there was a big backlog for the ATO to work through. "For a lot of the liquidations over the past 18 months, a material proportion have been businesses that ceased to trade a year or so prior to that.” An ATO spokesperson said that where a viable business is having difficulty meeting its tax payment obligations, the tax office works with the business to find a mutually acceptable solution that fits its individual circumstances, such as a payment arrangement. “While the ATO supports businesses that try to do the right thing, we have a responsibility to take firmer action with the minority who don't. This ensures a level playing field for business," the spokesperson said.
is a win for retailers. “The recommendation on public holidays would mean retailers know there are 11 days only each year where penalty rates will apply and can budget more effectively,” she said.
Fair Work Act review outcome disappointing
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The independent review of the Fair Work Australia Act has produced a mixed bag of feelings from many groups, including APAN as well as retailers. The review evaluated the operation of the Fair Work Act and feedback contained in over 250 written submissions from a range of employers, employees, unions, community groups, lawyers and governments. According to the Australian Retailers Association (ARA), the review managed to identify technical areas in need of improvement as part of the long-awaited review. ARA executive director Russell Zimmerman said the ARA will work with Government to further improve those technical areas identified that are currently lacking. Meanwhile, the Australian National Retailers Association (ANRA) CEO Margy Osmond said the recommendation to cap the number of public holidays that penalty rates are paid on around the country
“It means organisations that operate across the country can have one uniform approach that will cover all of their workers. It would mean a much more efficient system with workers treated equally around the country.” However, retailers expressed their disappointment about the review's failure to deal with BOOT – the Better Off Overall Test – being applied to the whole workforce in an enterprise agreement. Retailers have also called for the BOOT to be applied across enterprise bargaining agreements to the workforce as a whole, rather than on an individual basis. The review panel only recommends that Fair Work Australia should continue to monitor the application of the BOOT – which is a limp response at best,” Osmond said.
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On the whole the Review is rather a missed opportunity, and the Panel's assessment that the legislative framework for industrial relations has not contributed to slowing productivity is mystifying to organisations who had made submissions to say the least.
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Doing business Facebook to Facebook
them interested. We talk about current affairs, we use new music, we keep them involved and turn our page into a small service, almost like a source of news and entertainment, rather than blatantly pushing products.''
Social media is proving a communication boon for small businesses. Small businesses are increasingly using social media to interact and create a rapport with their customers, according to a new survey.
Mr Korotkov said using social media required minimal effort, with the rewards far outweighing the small amount of time taken to use it.
The Sensis e-Business report showed that 27 per cent of small to medium-sized enterprises (SMEs) that used the Internet also used social media, an increase of 17 per cent since 2010. Of the 1808 businesses surveyed, 92 per cent of SMEs were connected to the internet. ''We've been seeing consistent growth in the use of social media used in business,'' said report author Christena Singh. The predominant form of social media used by SMEs was Facebook. Businesses using Facebook reported more interaction with customers, good customer feedback, increased networking opportunities and increased sales. ''Any business where they are trying to build a strong customer rapport, create brand loyalty and customer dialogue tends to be the businesses that find social media particular useful,'' said Ms Singh. Sam Korotkov, event director at The Wall, a weekly event at The World Bar in Sydney's Kings Cross, said Facebook was a vital part of their marketing strategy. ''With Facebook is there a way to involve people without spamming them?'' he asked. ''The content that we provide is all about keeping
Glimmer of hope shines for businesses according to the Australian Bureau of Statistics (ABS) More results indicating retail trade is improving has been released by the Australian Bureau of Statistics (ABS). The latest ABS retail trade figures show that retail turnover rose 1 per cent in June 2012, seasonally adjusted, following a rise of 0.8 per cent in May 2012. Meanwhile, the year-on-year figure to June 2012 sits at 5.4 per cent. This is the biggest jump in annual growth rate since the 2009 stimulus packages where averages in year-on-year figures in recent years have sat around 2 per cent.
Margy Osmond, Australian National Retailers Associations (ANRA) CEO, said the June results are a welcome bounce back, which retailers hope is more to do with shoppers returning than just the bad weather driving people indoors.
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“The sales, a fall in interest rates, Federal Budget cash filtering through to bank accounts and stability in Europe sent Australians to the shops in June, creating long overdue positive signs in the sector, and we couldn't be more pleased to see it.
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“Retailers pulled out all the stops in June, the department stores delivered their big half-yearly clearances and toy retailers brought
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''Facebook is like an espresso shot of marketing. It's the information there as you want it, it's obviously not in depth, but you're able to draw out a lot of things. There isn't a lot of preparation involved, preparing posts and sourcing content; once you have it, you can link it.'' For Sam Gabrielian, owner of Dose Espresso, social media were not part of his strategy when he opened his cafe in November last year. ''We decided to start a Facebook page because our customers requested a page with some photos and some of our products,'' he said. Taking things a step further, Gabrielian decided to offer customers a 10 per cent discount if they liked Dose's Facebook page. ''We did that for two weeks. We found the likes built up very quickly; it was a kind gesture to the customers,'' he said. Facebook has become a key component for letting customers know what's happening at the cafe, which constantly changes its menu. 'We're seeing 62 per cent of the Australia population on Facebook, so there certainly is an opportunity. Social media peak at the 18-19 age bracket, 95 per cent; as that population becomes older we will see it become a much more important part of the marketplace.'’
their sales forward slightly to boost the end of the month. “The proof was in the pudding, with an impressive 3.4 per cent jump in department stores sales (seasonally adjusted), and clothing, footwear and accessory retailing also improved 1.8 per cent. This is the best number for department stores for more than 12 months, and the best result for clothing in 2012. “Food retailing continues to lead the charge, up 0.9 per cent and cafes, restaurants and takeaways up 1.0 per cent. “The only sector to drop was household goods retailing, down 0.2%, which is disappointing, but indicates that the priority for families remains in small treats café lunches, a new top, replace the toaster, but no real commitment to buy larger goods – fridge, TV or sofa.” However, Gary Black, National Retail Association (NRA) executive director, highlighted that domestic retailers still continue to face difficult conditions due to the unfair trading advantage available to overseas-based retailers, who can sell goods worth up to $1000 into the Australian market without paying GST or import and customs charges. “Retail provides the bulk of jobs to low-skilled workers, and also serves as a means of supporting students and helping them gain work experience. “If the Federal Government wanted to boost further the job prospects of these groups of people, they could move to close the tax loophole, which disadvantages local businesses," he said. “We might then be able to see further good retail figures such as those we've seen today, and perhaps a longer-term recovery in the retail sector as a whole.”
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The ATO's focus for what it defines as "micro enterprises" over the next year will be on unrecorded and unreported cash transactions, employer obligations, GST, tax and superannuation systems registrations, lodgment obligations and incorrect fuel tax credit claims following implementation of the clean energy measures.
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ATO REVEALS 2012-13 TARGETS: SMEs warned over contractors, GST and trusts for businesses with a turnover of less than $2 million The Australian Tax Office says this year it will target the use of contractors by business and businesses' use of trusts to minimise tax, according to its 2012/13 compliance program published this morning. Through consultation with the aesthetics industry APAN has also identified several “Contractors” within the industry that are not complying with Tax Office requirements and urges the industry to review and meet with their obligation in order to avoid penalties. Robert Jeremenko, senior tax counsel at The Tax Institute, said that the compliance program acted as a useful warning to business of the ATO's focus for the year. "The reality is that the Tax Office isn't trying to scare anyone; they are being very upfront about it. It is like a tax speed camera on the side of the road and the ATO is putting a sign up the front saying speed camera ahead," he says.
“The ATO is very much highlighting the obligations of that micro business as an employer. They are concerned with superannuation laws being complied with and making sure employees do not exceed excess super contribution caps," says Jeremenko. Jeremenko also highlights the GST as a big focus for the ATO, as many industries are subject to the GST. He warns that micro businesses will need to be sure their GST is in order and BAS filled out. An ATO audit of 1,100 micro businesses that employed individuals in 2012 found nearly half were employees and not contractors. CPA Australia senior tax counsel Mark Morris said that the ATO is "very worried about contractors and the whole issue of contractors".
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Vipin Kalra, Visa's country manager Australia, said the independent research show 89 per cent of Australian merchants consider faster payment and lower costs as the most important benefits of accepting credit cards, yet many are paying higher fees than they need to. “In these tough times, it's crucial for businesses to be aware of the facts and understand the options available to them.” Kalra also said data from the Reserve Bank of Australia shows that average merchant service fees on American Express transactions are more than twice as high as those on Visa.
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"For example, from July 1, 2012, in the building industry if you are making payments to contractors you have to report the payments and they will be audited. Another measure the ATO is using is benchmarks and field audits." The ATO is increasing its use of profit benchmarks to determine whether micro businesses are declaring income, focusing especially on cafes and plasterers. "One thing the ATO is doing this year is looking at raw material supplies and comparing them to the sales you make, so for a cafe they look at the amount of coffee you buy," says Morris. "If you are a cafe, you are buying 90 kilos of coffee and you need to look at what that would equate to in sales and whether the profit margin is kosher compared to competitors. It shows the level of sophistication the ATO is using now.” Jeremenko says while plasterers and coffee shops may appear to be "two unlikely bedfellows", both are very cash-based business areas and so attract ATO scrutiny.
Visa helps businesses save money Research conducted by Stokes Mischewski, which was commissioned by Visa, shows more than half of Australian businesses are unaware of the credit card fees they pay. As a result, Visa has launched the Visa Better Value for Business campaign to highlight cost savings small businesses can make by reviewing their credit card acceptance practices.
National Australia Bank also optimistic “The research confirmed that one in three businesses feel their business is suffering to fund these higher fees, so this campaign is designed to provide facts, information and advice from other businesses on how to get the best value from their credit card acceptance programs,” he said. The Visa Better Value campaign includes case studies from a range of well-known retailers, and incorporates communications to merchants through a website, trade advertising and trade shows. Visa has also developed an online merchant fee saver tool that allows retailers to calculate the potential cost savings available to their business by changing their card acceptance practices.
The National Australia Bank's monthly business survey for June has reiterated the positive results the retail industry is seeing from the RBA's rate cuts and predicts optimism. Just as it was reported by the Westpac Melbourne Institute Index of Consumer Sentiment, the NAB has also said the rate cuts are finally having positive results on the retail sector. The survey said that overall business conditions have improved slightly, despite activity still remaining relatively soft. More specifically, retail conditions picked up modestly, “with recent rate cuts as well as government payments probably having an effect”. However, in comparison to other sectors, performance of the retail sector as well as manufacturing, construction and wholesale still remain “worryingly weak”.
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At the same time, retail prices continue to fall marginally, suggesting further discounting.
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MIRABELLA BEAUTY Skin Tint Crème
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Brides need to look amazing on their special day and timeless in their beauty, and this can only happen with perfect-looking skin. Leading professional colour cosmetic brand Mirabella Beauty knows that their luxurious full-coverage and mineral-based foundation is designed to match specific skin tones and with ingredients that are good for the skin.
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MIRABELLA Skin Tint Crème is not only perfect for the demanding bride, but also for every fastidious woman that wants to look her best. The water/gel formula, containing skin protective properties, glides right on to the skin and dries quickly to a silky, luminescent finish. “As a makeup artist of over 20 years I often find it difficult to recommend an everyday foundation for my clients that ticks all the boxes – this is it, I've found it! It offers my clients the level of coverage they need to glow, easy to apply, wears incredibly well, but best of all is the constant feedback that it’s feels so light on their skin, and that they love the compliments! Sounds corny, but it's true.” Jai Harvey-Yin MIRABELLA Skin Tint Crème is available in the following 14 versatile shades (based on the Fitzpatrick System) guaranteed to work for women of all skin tones:
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While enjoying an international reputation and a leading salon cosmetics brand in the USA, Mirabella Beauty is new to Australia, yet is already gaining great popularity due to its amazing quality and its ability to enhance any skin type. Offering a full range of over 200 contemporary mineral based products for face, eyes and lips along with professional artistry tools, this expansive range of cosmetic products offers quality formulas, clean ingredients and beautiful, sophisticated packaging. Products are available in timeless and trendy colours for all skin tones. Mirabella Beauty also provides education and technical support to help women create the wow factor.
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