APJ Vol 16 2013

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Aesthetics Practitioners Journal

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AESTHETICS

PRACTITIONERS Journal

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The official publication of the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd ISSN: 1836-9812

Autumn Issue Volume 16. 2013

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The IPL Hair Removal Revolution

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2013

Autumn Issue Volume 16.

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In 2013 the range of IPL products available in Australia will rapidly expand

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INDUSTRY REPORTS, NEWS AND PRODUCTS 8-9 56 60-63 72-75 83 84-87 88-90 94-95 98-101

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CEO’s Heart 2 Heart Report Introducing two new APAN Membership Classifications Business News Zenyu Beauty, Skin and Body APAN membership Product Innovations Aesthetic Industry Bulletin APAN Member Profile Scientific News

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REGULATIONS, EDUCATION AND TRAINING 12-13 71

Achieving great treatment outcomes and overall wellbeing Aesthetic Excellence Program

SCIENTIFIC RESEARCH, TREATMENTS AND TECHNOLOGY 22-24

More than Skin-Deep – How Nutrigenomics must forever change they way we care for skin 34-35 Eyebrow Perfection through the Threading Technique 36-37 Collagen Induction Therapy and the Clinical Approach 50-54 Men's Treatments and Skincare – new Emerging Market leader 64-65 Factors that contribute to IPL incidents 66 How Jojoba Oil Benefits the Skin 80-82 The Skin and Health virtues of Peppermint Herb and Essential oil 106-107 Hello Sunshine – Revolutionary Australian device warns of sun safety levels 108-109 Assisting collagen structural integrity through detoxification

BUSINESS, PERSONAL AND PROFESSIONAL DEVELOPMENT 14-16 18-20

The Dimensions of Service Quality The most powerful management skill – Effective decisionmaking 40-41 My Business Manager – Brining an effective corporate tool to small business 42 Ask the Expert 45 How your business can benefit from Mobile APPS technology 46-47 Financial Lending for Business Expansion 48-49 Effective Stock Turn Management Strategies for business growth and profitability 78-79 Why discounting is not the answer for Cosmetic Tattooing 96-97 The highs and lows of selling a salon or spa business 104-105 Time Management that yields growth 110-111 Raising the Bar – Australian Trade Mark Law

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SEMINARS, EXPOS AND CONFERENCES

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Australian Aesthetics Conference ADELAIDE Understanding the New Era of Aesthetics Conference Speakers Australian Aesthetic Conferences 2013 Cosmetex 2013 7th Annual Conference in Anti-Ageing & Aesthetic Medicine

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EDITOR’SNOTE

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-|Don’t forget to check out our new website apanetwork.com -|-

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This is the first issue of APJ for 2013 and we are very excited with several changes and new developments that APAN will be introducing this year to support the industry’s progress.

When you have researched your direction and set your goals for the year, moving into the implementation phase is so energising and full of positive expectations. As an organisation we have evaluated what changes the industry needs and we have set our course of action for the year.

First, we are stepping up our conferences to three States this year with Adelaide hosting our first event with the new name – AUSTRALIAN AESTHETICS CONFERENCES and the theme - Understanding the New Era of Aesthetics.

The program has been finalised with some amazing up-todate information to empower both business owners and practitioners alike. Check out all the details on pages 31-33.

We have updated our website to provide a more modern and dynamic presence with improved fuctionality. Professional Development study units will take centre stage this year as we introduce our Aesthetics Excellence Program, (for details go to page 71).

In this issue of APJ we have some great information for you.

There are 11 articles covering several diverse business topics. These will challenge your thinking and help you establish your course of action this year with greater confidence.

Science, technology and new and exciting treatments are covered in nine articles so you will find solid, quality information to help extend your practices and broaden your market reach. We are also covering valuable data on the new emerging market leader – men’s treatments and skincare and the most effective way to capitalise on this market.

Whatever your dreams and aspirations for this year may be, may you find the way to make them happen. Regardless of what challenges you face, (because life always has a way of keeping us on our toes), please know that we are here for you. APJ will be stepped up in 2013 in terms of content to provide you with solid food for thought on options and possibilities that await you. And don’t forget, APAN is more than just a publication – we are a peek industry body that delivers on its promises and brings leadership direction and expertise to support its members to become highly successful professionals in a vibrant, ever-changing and dynamic industry.

Let's make this year a great success. I know we can do it if we put our minds to it. I am happy to trail blaze the way with the motto “If you can't see the light at the end of the tunnel, go there and light it yourself”, I hope some of you will join me in making sure nothing will hold us back from making this year an amazing one.

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info@apanetwork.com

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APAN Website: http://www.apanetwork.com APAN Office Email: info@apanetwork.com

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Tina Viney, Editor

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Editor Tina Viney Phone: (07) 5593 0360 Fax: 07 5593 0367 Email: info@apanetwork.com Web: www.apanetwork.com

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Welcome to APJ

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Typesetting & Graphics

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Mark Viney Kharis Enterprises Pty Ltd

Advertising and Marketing Tina Viney Phone: 07 5593 0360 Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network PO Box 5448 Q Super Centre Qld 4218 Australia Fax: 07 5593 0367 Mobile: 0412 177 423 Email: info@apanetwork.com

Publishers Kharis Enterprises Pty Ltd

Design & Production Artwork and Editorial Kharis Enterprises Pty Ltd 8 Parkdale Court Robina Q 4226 Phone: 07 5593 0360 Fax: 07 5593 0367 Mobile: 0412 177 423 Email: info@kharis.com

Printed for Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd ACN 136 987 169 ABN 25 136 987 169

Accounts Payable Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network PO Box 5448 Q Super Centre Qld 4218 Australia

Journal Advisory Board Terry Everitt – Education features Wendy Neely – PR and Marketing Dr Douglas Grose – Scientific content Caroline Nelson – Business Features

National Advisory Council

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John Fergusson Terry Everitt Bill Anton Gill Fish Vanessa Kirkham Maureen Houssein-Mustafa

ISSN: 1836-981 Print Post Approved [100000257]

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Circulation 6500

FRONT COVER FRANCE MEDICAL Email: aurelien@programeo.com.au Website: www.programeo.com.au Office: 07 3108 5365 Mobile: 044 99 55 107 See pages: 26-30 for further details The Aesthetics Practitioners Journal is the official publication of the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd, a network organisation established to service the needs of the aesthetics industry in the area of professional development and business networking. The Aesthetics Practitioners Journal is published quarterly for the benefit of its members and subscribers and aims to inform and educate its members on better business practices and industry advancements.

All editorials and articles that are submitted for publishing remain the property of Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd. Reproduction in part or in whole is not permitted without prior written authorisation by the publishers. Every effort has been made to ensure that all scientific and technical information presented is as accurate as possible at the time of publishing. However, members and readers are highly recommended to also seek external advice from their accountant, registered financial adviser or healthcare professional for their recommendations.

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CEO’s Heart-2-Heart REPORT

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When it comes to winning there is a saying that “the race is to the swift”, but I would like to agree with our quote this time that the winner is the one who has persevered and not allowed discouragement to get them to quit.

On a daily basis I receive phone calls and emails from business owners who are experiencing a tough challenge. They are reaching out because they recognise they need to re-examine their CTITIO options. They need expert and objective advice in order to determine the best way to navigate NE PRA through their problems, in the wisest possible way and with the least amount of collateral S damage. It may be a problem they are having with a staff member, or a concern with the economy and how they can better position their business to survive.

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In issues of human conflict, especially if you are a manager or business owner, you have to step back and look at the bigger picture. First, try to understand where the other person is VISORY NE coming from? Are there misunderstandings that can be resolved through calm and caring negotiations or through establishing clear guidelines in HR policies and procedures? Has there been neglect on your part, accidental or intentional? What are the risks to the business? Does this situation call for firmness or compassion, or both? Do you have the right skills to deal with this situation? Above all, it is important not to take things personally and to seek the objective perspective that can also present to you three key elements – your ethical, professional and legal options and sometimes obligations.

In the confrontation between the stream and the rock, the stream always wins, not through strength, but by perseverance.

H. Jackson Brown

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This type of advice is what we specialise in and offer through our services when consulting with our members. We often mediate in matters of conflict and we carefully consider the options and choices that are available to them so that they can move forward. Sometimes there is a fine line between what is professional and what is legal advice and for this reason we are privileged to have as our strategic partners one of the most reputable and credible legal firm in Australia – Pointon Partner Lawyers. Their expert advice has been invaluable to us and to our members with whom we consult with daily.

Despite our skills, knowledge and expert legal support as APAN Directors we are also required to be covered by directors' insurance for advice we offer. We are therefore highly committed to ensuring that whatever advice we give you is responsible, trustworthy and accurate and we invest in staying up-to-date with our knowledge.

But, let's go back to our original thought of dealing with challenges. The lesson to take here is that survival is not just about resilience – it is equally about flexibility. Holding on to a fixed position without exploring your options for resolutions (in the case of human relations) or new information and strategies (for business survival) can lead to your downfall. Knowing your options, staying current and being flexible to change are some of the most important considerations that are needed in today's business environment in order to survive.

NEW PROFESSIONAL DEVELOPMENT UNITS In order to gain confidence and make timely and wise decisions in this rapidly evolving industry it is important that you have the right information at hand. Several suppliers as well as some business coaches that are trying to help businesses survive have commented as to how amazed they are to see salons purchasing expensive equipment only to eventually store them in the back room without any use because in reality they don't fully understand the potential of the technology they have invested in. A lot of this comes down to a lack of objective education of what they are taking on. While the supplier may train you in the use of the technology, this does not constitute education, it only constitutes training. It is therefore your responsibility to invest in objective education that is commercially unbiased and will give you the tools to gain the most from technologies that you invest in. This is an area that we have identified that the industry needs support.

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The lesson to take here is that survival is not just about resilience – it is equally about flexibility.

Holding on to a fixed position without exploring your options for resolutions (in the case of human relations) or new information and strategies (for business survival) can lead to your downfall.

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As a result, as of April this year, APAN will be launching the APAN Professional Development Study Units, known as the Aesthetics Excellence Program, which can be undertaken on-line. We believe that these units will provide the industry with a niche learning tool that will empower you to select the subject you would like to gain further knowledge in and take up a study unit to give you a better grounding on that subject.

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These professional development study units will be written by experts and will contain sound educational content. However, they will not offer “qualifications” as such, but will allow the “student” to gain greater confidence on the subject with knowledge they can rely on that will be objective and credible.

Our intention is to continue to add to the list of subjects throughout the year so please check our website regularly for updates. The subject matter will be diverse and will include business as well as technical and scientific subjects. These units can be undertaken both by individuals as well as business owners who wish to expand their knowledge on a particular subject. Our ultimate intention is to eventually present these units to our National Advisory Council to award them with Continuing Educational Points for the purpose of a more formal status. Please check them out on our website www.apanetwork.com and do take advantage of them, as we believe they will be invaluable in helping you grow your skills and knowledge.

AUSTRALIAN AESTHETICS CONFERENCES As we have indicated APAN is also growing its Conference and Expo program and extending it to three States this year Adelaide on Sunday May 26th, Sydney Monday 26th August and Gold Coast Sunday 27th October. These events have been renamed Australian Aesthetics Conferences and they will provide a wonderful opportunity for all our members to come together at a dynamic professional event and gain excellent quality education and industry intelligence that can strengthen their knowledge and their business position.

If you are not a member of APAN here is your chance to meet us and to experience firsthand some of what we have to offer. Each conference will have a completely different program, so members can attend all three events and expect to gain something new from each of them. If you attend all three you qualify for a 20% discount. Delegates who attend will also receive a Certificate of Attendance, as this is a fully tax deductible professional development educational program. Each event will also allow you to meet several suppliers through a small exhibition that will support the event. Full catering will be provided, with morning and afternoon refreshments and a full buffet lunch.

Each delegate will receive a kit and the conference will be set up in “classroom style” to enable you to take down your own notes from the lectures.

convenient time. Further details on the Adelaide program is available on pages 31-33.

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ARPANSA UPDATE

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As many of you are aware a survey was released late last year from ARPANSA which is currently reviewing the need for legislation for IPL and laser. The preliminary response to the survey in terms of professional categories was as follows:

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Number of responses by occupation (after cleaning and coding) Beauty Therapist 93 IPL/ Laser Practitioner 13 Dermal Therapist 115 Cosmetic Physician 38 Dermatologist 104 Plastic Surgeon 11 General Practitioner 8 Medical Practitioner - Other 6 Enrolled Nurse 4 Registered Nurse 22 Other 11 n/a 11 Total 436

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Sydney: Redefining Leadership in the Aesthetic World Gold Coast: Expertise and Reputation

Committed to your progress

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Please support these events as they have been designed for your benefit, so put the dates in your diary and plan to attend. Special accommodation rates have also been negotiated with the hotels so that delegates can attend with partners and loved ones. As these events will be for one day only you can come and enjoy an extra weekend day exploring the region as well. Please visit our website and register online today, or phone or email us so that we can contact you at a

It goes without saying that such surveys will be paramount to the government's conclusion and their ultimate decision as to whether they will implement legislation for the practice of IPL and laser. While as organisational leaders we are given the opportunity to put forward our recommendations, much of the information that the government will base its decision will be on the result of such surveys as the objective indicators. It is therefore very important that all practitioners take such opportunities to participate in these surveys seriously if they wish for appropriate legislation to be implemented.

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Adelaide: Understanding the New Age of Aesthetics – How are you

As you can see there was equal participation both from beauty and aesthetic therapists, as well as from the medical profession. The survey outcomes were discussed at a recent ARPANSA Working Group meeting, with the majority of adverse effects attributed to poor education of the operator. Continued details analysis of the survey outcomes are currently being investigated and assessed to determine as accurate as possible, the areas of concern and consideration for future legislation. Suffice to say that at this point in time the Working Group is currently reviewing how to classify the responses in terms of adverse outcomes and their severity. This is at the direction of ARPANSA who are required to present the breakdown of classifications so that the government can determine the cost of legislation.

I will keep you updated on progress. Meanwhile, understand that APAN is here for you, but we also need your support. Becoming a member is the first step to a more informed and useful relationship with our organisation, so if you are not a member please consider the benefits of joining. We also need you to strengthen our industry voice.

You can download an application from our website www.apanetwork.com or phone to speak to us 07 5593 0360.

THE THEMES FOR THE CONFERENCES WILL BE AS FOLLOWS:

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Tina Viney Chief Executive Officer

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Our Philosophy • High quality, effective formulations that deliver real results • Scientifically proven ingredients • No gimmicks or scaremongering • No massive margin on wholesale prices, the profit goes to the clinic.

• All products recommended retail of $45 • Industry leading stockist mark-up • Complimentary postgraduate education • Expertly trained staff • Outstanding customer service • In clinic marketing and business support • We do not compete with our customers • We do not and will never sell direct to the consumer • We are our customer’s business partner • Client satisfaction is paramount

Experts in skin (02) 9460 7559 | skinstitut.com

Knowledge is power Master your trade and become a Skinstitut Paramedical Skin Therapist

Experts in skin (02) 9460 7559 | skinstitut.com

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Achieving great treatment outcomes and overall wellbeing with

Qi Beauty Facial Treatment Modality Qi (Chee) is the energy that is vital to life, and has been used by acupuncturists for over 3000 years to restore health and vitality. Now a new facial treatment modality developed by Kathy Pedersen is based on this philosophy and supports the action of stimulating Qi around the face using specific acupuncture points within static magnetic fields, to help control the appearance of lines and visible signs of ageing. The new modality is known as Qi Beauty and uses gold-plated gauss-specific micro-magnetic stimulators (not needles) to bring volume upwards to lift and define facial features and fill fine lines.

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Trained Qi Beauty practitioners are able to direct the flow of Qi with a customised matrix using facial features as a guide. Practitioners are trained in clinically tested protocols that bridge to connect meridians within static magnetic fields to allow practitioners to assist in the reduction of the depth of wrinkles and to promote the appearance of a clear, smooth complexion.

Trained Qi Beauty practitioners are able to direct the flow of Qi with a customised matrix using facial features as a guide. Practitioners are trained in clinically tested protocols that bridge to connect meridians within static magnetic fields to allow practitioners to assist in the reduction of the depth of wrinkles and to promote the appearance of a clear, smooth complexion. We spoke with Kathy Pedersen, CEO and Trainer for Qi Beauty International, about the uniqueness of this amazing modality and what trained practitioners can expect to gain in terms of skintreatment results.

APJ 1: Kathy, give us a little background about the Qi Beauty training and how did it all come about?

Kathy: I experienced a Qi facial treatment for the first time in the late 1980s when I had my first cosmetic acupuncture treatments. It was a

very new procedure at the time and still in its infancy, combining needles and laser to stimulate acupuncture points. This was an extraordinary experience I will never forget. In retrospect that moment was probably the real beginning of what was to become Qi Beauty.

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I searched on and off for some time to identify a way for sustainable age control linking my background in cosmetology with acupuncture.

The first few years were all about finding a way to show women how natural therapy relates to beauty. This was nine years ago when people were not as aware of natural therapies. Few people understood the concept of Qi (energy) and how health affects beauty. It was on the cusp of the emerging beauty and wellbeing industry, which is now very closely linked.

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Doctors of traditional Chinese medicine, skin scientists, metaphysical scientists and colleagues have provided Qi Beauty with a collective intelligence that has supported my work over the past nine years and I will be forever grateful to them. My family has been a huge part of this evolution, probably because it was inescapable for them. They assisted me with research, clinical trials and managing the Qi clinic on the Gold Coast. Hundreds of women who have participated in clinical trials have contributed to my goal of sustainable age control, helping me in developing treatments for different skin conditions and age-control protocols. We have dedicated our Qi Beauty Women website to them.

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I have spent the past six years developing the Qi Beauty Intensive Training Program to educate the essence of Qi and to pass on an honest treatment that embodies tradition and science, training practitioners in Australia and New Zealand; they are the backbone of Qi Beauty. Last year Qi Beauty was invited to both Japan and Canada, where we trained 35 practitioners in the Art of Qi and we are returning to Canada this year to create a solid Qi Beauty network.

APJ 2: What does Qi Beauty training offer?

Kathy: Training offers practitioners several things. First, it's an opportunity to expand their client database, which is essential for business growth, but even more importantly, Qi Beauty facial treatments offer practitioners an advantage over their competitors with a treatment unlike any other. The Qi Beauty facial treatments and home kits, which are also practitioner prescribed and adapted, are compatible with other anti-ageing treatments, including thread lift, lip enhancement, dermal fillers, microdermabrasion and the most commonly sought after, the non-surgical anti-wrinkle treatments.

The biggest concern for Australian women is their wrinkles, followed by uneven skin tone. These facts coincide with Qi Beauty's most popular treatments, as statistically women seek to treat wrinkles and pigmentation as a priority. Women come to Qi Beauty either to support their Laser or IPL treatments, or as their preferred choice of treatment, where they have chosen a completely natural approach. It's important that practitioners accept the fact that Australian women aren't scared of cosmetic enhancements. As practitioners what we need to do is support the increased demand in non-surgical and surgical enhancements by taking care of the health and wellbeing of skin in between procedures with treatments that assist the recovery of the skin's immunity, its micro flora and its overall health.

APJ 3: Who can benefit from Qi Beauty training?

Kathy: Practitioners who are qualified or familiar with Qi, traditional

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Chinese medicine and the function of skin can train to be successful Qi Beauty practitioners. The two-day intensive training covers all aspects of the facial treatments, from the foundational anti-ageing facial to adapting protocols for detoxification, pigmentation, enlarged pores and specific treatments for the eyes, lips, neck and décolletage.

Practitioners will find that the treatments can be adapted to work on any skin type and condition. It is a unique treatment in that at the time of consultation the practitioner will assess the skin and create a facial matrix based on the presenting skin condition, while also building on the results of previous treatments. As a recommendation, if women receive 17 facial treatments over the course of one year, averaging one facial every three weeks, this is a successful and manageable way to maintain the beauty, health, appearance and wellbeing of skin.

APJ 4: Can you tell us a little about the kind of results these protocols can achieve?

Kathy: The results can rival and are frequently superior to those of the more invasive, anti-ageing treatments. With this method practitioners are able to offer immediate and noticeable results that don't require any recovery time, and for this reason clients are ecstatic. The popularity of these treatments is based on the advantage that the client will not only look and feel fantastic, but that it is also good for them.

Qi Beauty facial treatments are all about connecting acupuncture points within a static magnetic field. It's unlike any other treatment in the world and has taken many years of study and clinical trials to create a Qi matrix for all skin conditions. The Qi Beauty facial treatment increases Qi, bringing energy to the skin, giving women a golden glow of vitality that they haven't seen in their skin since their 20s. We know beauty is all about health and wellbeing, if you are healthy, your skin is healthy, and you look fantastic. Better yet, you feel fantastic. ㄰

For further information on training in the Qi Beauty facial treatment modality please contact Kathy Pedersen Qi Beauty International 07 5527 3001 | www.qibeauty.com.au www.mingfacial.com

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The Dimensions of Service Quality

By Sandra Hollows I recently met Sandra Hollows at a business breakfast and from the start we immediately clicked and felt a great affinity. On getting to know Sandra I realised that she was not only personable and charming, but also possessed extensive academic qualifications as well as experience. She is a highly qualified and experienced academic, entrepreneur, author, and a self-confessed self-development addict. She has 30 years' experience and a passion for business, in particular small business, as it offers her many exciting opportunities to assist SME entrepreneurs to succeed in growing their business.

Sandra is also a stickler for detail and as a result the hallmark of her work is excellence at all levels.

In this article, Sandra presents some compelling information based on research that brings to light key proven strategies for improving the quality of your customer service.

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The business environment has changed. It is no longer as easy as it used to be to get your business established, or find and keep your clients. Therefore adapting to change frequently requires the effective use of all your experience and skills. In most cases, adapting to change will demand the use of new thinking, skills and techniques – thinking, skills and techniques you might not have mastered, or have even begun to acquire. In a fast-changing environment, it is advisable to be prepared to deal with change successfully. And change how you approach aspects of your business before it becomes essential for its survival; you don't want to be caught in a crisis.

It is my belief that you can never stop learning if you want to maintain your value in the job marketplace, or obtain the business success you desire. Nor can you wait for someone to tell you when the right time is

to start learning. It is crucial you take responsibility to educate yourself if you want to have a competitive advantage. Doing so will make you and your business more visible and viable to prospective clients.

Businesses do try hard to differentiate their services from that of their competitors, as well as to distinguish themselves and retain their clients. One of the most popular ways of doing this is through the delivery of their services. This is a great strategy. However, businesses have forgotten that their clients expect a certain level of service quality as the norm, or they believe the service they offer is of a high quality already. Maybe it is. Unfortunately, in most cases, businesses seem to fall short.

Service management and improvement is challenging. What makes it difficult is that services are intangible whereby goods are tangible. To elaborate, it is much easier for a business to evaluate and adjust the products they sell as they can use variables such as durability and number of defects to achieve their quality goals. On the other hand, a service because of its heterogeneous nature i.e. every client service experience varies, is more difficult to master across operators. Two characteristics known to impact immensely on service quality are: 1) there is no separation of consumption to that of production; and 2) each service operator performs the service differently according to their education, experience and ability.

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Services marketing is a sub-discipline of marketing and emerged in the mid-1980s. It is not as established as some of the other subdisciplines, for example direct marketing, which emerged in 1872 with the production of the first mail-order catalogue by Aaron Montgomery Ward (Lambert, 1987). Since then there has been a lot of research on how businesses can understand, measure and improve service quality.

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WHAT IS SERVICE QUALITY?

seven. These are:

Service quality is a popular marketing tool used to aid businesses to achieve competitive advantage and foster customer loyalty. Simply put, service quality is the difference between the service quality expectation of your client and the performance of your business.

Extensive research undertaken by Parasuraman, Zeithaml and Berry (1985, 1998) shows that clients measure the service quality they receive on five dimensions: 1. Reliability: The business' ability to perform their service to clients in an accurate and dependable way.

2. Responsibility: Employees' willingness to provide efficient service and the extent to which they will help them.

3. Assurance: Employees' knowledge and courtesy, as well as their ability to inspire trust and confidence.

4. Empathy: The caring and individualised attention the business provides to its clients.

5. Tangibles: All the tangible things the business has such as their physical facilities, equipment, personnel and communication collateral.

Gap 1: Customers' expectations versus management perceptions ! Problem – Resulting from a lack of marketing research,

Academic research indicates that the 'reliability' dimension is most critical to clients whereas the 'tangibles' dimension is the least.

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inadequate upward communication and too many layers of management.

Solution – Undertake qualitative and quantitative research with different client groups to ascertain what clients truly want.

Gap 2: Management perceptions versus service specifications ! Problem – Resulting from inadequate commitment to service

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quality, a perception of unfeasibility, inadequate task standardisation and an absence of goal setting.

Solution – Match new service innovations and actual service process designs to client expectations. Hone job and task processes, and set SMART objectives (SMARTER = Specific; Measurable; Achievable; Realistic; Time-bound; Extending; Rewarding).

Gap 3: Service specifications versus service delivery ! Problem – Resulting from role ambiguity and conflict, poor employee-job fit and poor technology-job fit, inappropriate supervisory control systems, lack of perceived control and lack of teamwork.

Solution – Fine-tune your human resources strategies and practices such as role ambiguity and role conflict. Design appropriate systems, as well as monitor and encourage a win-win teamwork environment.

MEASURING SERVICE QUALITY

There are a number of approaches used to ascertain the service quality ! of a business. The most popular of these is by far SERVQUAL. Parasuraman et al developed SERVQUAL in the mid-1980s. They have continued to hone it since then. The approach uses a quantitative method to elicit ratings of client expectations and perceptions on each of the five dimensions. The SERVQUAL instrument therefore uses the disagreement/agreement 1-7 Likert scale when presenting pairs of 22 statements relevant to each of the dimensions and their associated attributes. An example of a typical statement pair is: ! Expectation: When excellent restaurants promise to seat a party within a certain time, they will do so. ! Perception: W h e n 'Alberto's Pizzeria' Figure1. Model of Service Quality Gaps (Parasuraman et al., 1985; Curry, 1999; Luk & Layton, 2002) promises to seat your party within a certain time, it does so.

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The difference between each pair of statements is your 'service quality score' for a particular attribute within a particular dimension. You can use this tally to assess – realistically – what the quality of service is that you provide to your clients and then improve it if it is low.

Gap 4: Service delivery versus external communication ! Problem – Resulting from inadequate horizontal

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communications and a tendency to over-promise.

Solution – Align all of your internal and external messages so that you achieve integrated marketing communications.

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What you are doing when you are improving your 'service quality score', i.e. the difference between your clients' expectations and perceptions on each of the five dimensions, is effectively 'closing the gap'. Many years of research identified four 'gaps' that underpin clients' expectations and perceptions, which has now been extended to

Gap 5: The discrepancy between customer expectations and their perceptions of the service delivered ! Problem – Resulting from influences applied from the clients' side and gaps on the part of the service provider. In this case, client expectations is influenced by the extent of personal needs, word of mouth recommendation, and past service experiences.

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Solution – Undertake SERVQUAL analysis on a regular basis, and endeavour to close all the gaps within the service quality experience you provide to clients efficiently and effectively.

Gap 6: The discrepancy between customer expectations and employees' perceptions ! Problem – Resulting from differences in client expectation

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understanding by front-line service providers.

Solution – Undertake regular information and training sessions with your front-line personnel on your clients' expectations.

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Gap 7: The discrepancy between employees' perceptions and management perceptions ! Problem – Resulting from differences in client expectation

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understanding between managers and service providers.

Solution – Undertake regular information exchange sessions between managers and front-line personnel to inform and educate each other on your clients' expectations.

Illustrated in Figure 1 is an excellent representation of the interconnectedness of each of the seven gaps. Therefore, a business must tackle all of the gaps they received a low score on in order to improve their service quality.

WANT TO LEARN MORE?

SWiCH™ Dermal Rejuvenation Treatment

By Circadia

by Dr. Pugliese

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SWiCH™ dermal rejuvenation treatment is an innovative alternative to a chemical peel. The system is based on a physiological principle of inducing the natural repair system without the wound.

Unlike most acid-based treatments, the SWiCH™ is a leave-on system. The active ingredients remain to provide continuous repair and restoration. Treatments can be performed every 28 to 30 days. The SWiCH kit contains everything needed to perform 10 treatments, including take-home products and instructions.

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Phone Circadia on 1800 247 223 or phone: 0409 238 119

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The SERVQUAL instrument is a great tool for service businesses eager to make client service standards and delivery key to the success of their competitive advantage strategy. The instrument is not very difficult to create, or administer. So if you are interested; want to learn more about it and how you can use it in your business to improve your service quality, you can find the training module and workshop details available on www.cogniprogroup.com – I look forward to serving your business needs soon.

REFERENCES Curry, A. (1999). Innovation in public service management. Managing Service Quality, 9(3), 180-190.

Lambert, N. (1987). Communicating experience: Deriving theory from direct marketing practice. Journal of Direct Marketing, 1(1), 23-29.

Luk, Sh. T. K., & Layton, R. (2002). Perception Gaps in customer expectations: Managers versus service providers and customers. The Service Industries Journal, 22(2), 109-128.

Parasuraman, A., Zeithaml, V.A., & Berry, L. L. (1985). A conceptual model of service quality and its implication. Journal of Marketing, 49(1), 41-50.

Parasuraman, A., Zeithaml, V. A., & Berry, L. L. (1988). Servqual: A multipleitem scale for measuring consumer perc. Journal of Retailing, 64(1), 12-12.

SANDRA HOLLOWS Sandra Hollows is an entrepreneur, author, academic and a selfconfessed self-development addict. She has 30 years' experience and a passion for business, in particular small business, as it offers many exciting opportunities for SME entrepreneurs to succeed and their businesses to grow and prosper. Another passion Sandra has is for learning and developing herself – and others – so she actively promotes lifelong learning, goalsetting and planning. This philosophy has led her to mentor undergraduate disability students at Griffith University, and lecture to undergraduate and postgraduate students at the University of Queensland.

Sandra can be contacted on 0414 348 247 or info@sandrahollows.com

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APJ 16

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The most powerful management skill

Effective Decision-Making

By Tina Viney Businesses come and go and the reason for such transiency may well have to do with the economy, which is experiencing many challenges in recent times. However, there are personal skills that may also contribute to one's downfall and apathy and indecisiveness would have to be key contributing factors.

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Apathy is the killer of innovation and as any business knows, unless the wheels of innovation are in motion the business will eventually come to a halt. In recent times this is a common phenomenon as daily businesses are experiencing increased hardship, with many going to the wall.

To get to the bottom of this issue we need to take a look at what causes apathy. There are several reasons that can paralyse us from action, however, by far the central reason why most businesses bury their head in the sand in apathy would have to be fear.

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Fear can be the result of focusing on negative news, such as the current failure of businesses to survive, or uncertain financial forecasts

presenting all of the obstacles without any of the opportunities that difficult times can also bring. This kind of information and thinking can lead you to taking your eyes off your purpose and goals.

While tenacity and hard work are good qualities, effective business leadership requires that we are also flexible and recognise the need to abandon a course if it is no longer producing the necessary outcomes.

When what you are currently doing is no longer working it is time for a change. As Albert Einstein said “Insanity is doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results”. In order to survive businesses need to adapt to the shifting business landscape and carefully consider what needs to go and what new strategies they need to implement.

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And talking about change, there is no doubt that often we stick to what worked for us in the past because we simply don't know how to solve the new problem, and feel that we no longer have the skills or knowledge that will give us the confidence to move in another direction. Fear of not knowing what to do, or how to solve a problem would have to be the most common reasons that paralyse us in not

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taking the necessary action so that we can continue to move forward towards our goals and objectives.

It is true that many excellent practitioners move on to become business owners because they feel confident they can deliver a great treatment and therefore, why not also a great business. However, the skill sets to drive a successful business are very different to being a highly skilled practitioner at what you do on a technical level.

DO YOU NEED HELP? If you have come to this realisation it is time to engage the services of an expert. From our records most businesses that are growing all have efficient business support structures and engage the services of business experts to gain the necessary strategies they need to survive.

A good business coach can conduct a business needs analysis and identify where the deficiencies lie and support you with the necessary strategies for recovery.

In our organisation we offer our APAN members business consultations as well as mentoring and coaching to assist businesses in gaining new skills, as well as the benefit of the objective perspective.

We offer numerous services and strategies that have assisted businesses to re-energise their position and regain their enthusiasm for growth, and once again discover that there is a better way that can allow them to stay on course for reaching their goals.

On a technical level, aesthetics is experiencing an information explosion in new scientific advances and equipment technology, which successful practitioners are expected to stay in touch with and grow their knowledge.

Likewise, the business world has been inundated with new technology that is changing the way we interact with our clients and the way we do business. The choices are many and sometimes overwhelming, and this is where expert advice and recommendations are needed to help you navigate through the maze of options available to you.

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informed decisions in a timely manner. When you think about it good business success is always the result of good decisions and their timely implementation.

Building your skills in decision-making is equally valuable for startups as it is during the growth phase and in the succession of your business. Business success and business failures can almost always be traced back to good or bad decision-making. There may be a million reasons that contributed to a certain situation, but ultimately it's not about what happened in the business, it is about what you do about it. It's about the decisions you make, the decisions you refuse to make or take too long to make, and the simple little errors of judgement. It's about right decisions that went wrong over time or were not fixed fast enough, and about decisions made too early without all the facts. Effective decision-making is what differentiates a good leader from merely a good manager.

I remember the day that we decided to set up APAN as a modern model of an “Association/Network/Advisory” organisation. I had learnt many valuable lessons having been a Director with a previous Association for over 16 years. One of the key lessons I learnt was about the “paralysis of analysis”. While much was achieved during my 16 years with the other professional body, so many opportunities were lost because of the Board's indecisiveness, taking too long to examine the facts and missing opportunities that had a time factor associated to them. For this reason our Management Board evaluates facts and maintains a policy of flexibility to assess and determine the needs of the industry and make short-term management decisions on a weekly basis, as from my experience, in this financial climate, monthly meetings no longer allow you to address needs in a timely manner.

So how can a skilled therapist build a successful business practice, develop their own effective leadership style that reflects their personality and also meets the demands of their fast-paced business?

Since the launch of APAN in May 2009 we have achieved amazing progress and established numerous initiatives for the better service of our members that have been unprecedented for the aesthetics industry.

Our 11 strategic partners offer businesses amazing business support and cost-saving options as well as high-quality expertise. Our legal firm, Pointon Partners which specialises in business law and Industrial Relations is kept busy with regular enquiries from us on behalf of our members. We have developed fast and efficient protocols to minimise the stress and risk of employee/employer misunderstandings and conflicts, freeing our members to get on with the running of their business, while we take care of them in this regard.

While there are numerous skills we can develop, in my opinion there is one leadership skill that businesses need to focus on more than any other. Unfortunately it is the one skill they do not teach in either beauty therapy colleges, or at business schools. It is the ability to make decisions, or more specifically, the ability to make faster, better

We often prepare reports and write appropriate letters for our members that allow them to communicate changes within their workplace in an efficient and professional manner that gains the respect of their staff, as well as their willingness to co-operate with them through a more cohesive team effort. Achieving this is very

WHY EFFECTIVE DECISION-MAKING IS A POWERFUL TOOL

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much our specialty as our skills in this area are backed by extensive knowledge, experience and training that enable us to delivery a highquality expert service that is needed in the industry.

However, to achieve this we have had to diversify from some of our initial plans as new industry needs surfaced for which we clearly needed to prioritise solutions.

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When it comes to effective decision-making there are three principles I abide by: ! Assessing the priority ! Being informed ! Timing

Effective business owners have decision support structures that give accurate and timely information to help them make informed decisions based on responsible and accurate facts.

ASSESSING THE PRIORITY

TIMING

When something is repeatedly causing you problems in the workplace you need to step back and assess what needs to change. Sometimes that can be overwhelming, especially if you are emotionally affected by the situation. In those instances it is advisable to contact an expert to bounce your concerns and gain an objective perspective. Over 50 per cent of our consultations have to do with staff, supplier or client conflicts. Through our objective input we can assist by identifying the root problem and guide the decision-making process on the basis of what is the priority in the matter. As a principle we recommend resolution strategies that prioritise restoring harmony back into human relationships, such as restoring trust and human dignity over just material gain. This is because in the long term a reputation of excellence is the cornerstone of a successful business, not just winning an argument.

BEING INFORMED While gathering the necessary information is paramount to effective decision-making there are two extremes you need to guard against.

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On the one hand, you have business owners who are so focused on research that they don't know when to stop and make a decision. They go to the ends of the earth to gather information, stating that they need more data – so much so that they often lose sight of the importance of timing for the decision and miss the decision-making window. I recently read a humorous quote that said, “Had God sent the Israelites a committee instead of Moses they would still be in Egypt”. There is such a thing as too many perspectives and too much information that leads to the “paralysis of analysis” – don't get caught up with that.

Business owners who are too focused on information can lose credibility also with their employees, as staff who are waiting for your decision can give up on you and lose momentum. They stop believing that anything is going to happen and perhaps worst of all, they stop coming up with creative solutions and innovative ideas that could benefit the business, because they are asked to provide indisputable proof, which is often impossible and soul destroying.

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On the other hand the business owner who is swayed by the heat of the moment, or just emotional appeal without taking the time to examine and research the facts, is in danger of making some costly errors.

Jumping to conclusions too hastily, having your head in the sand and refusing to accept the reality of a situation is clearly not the best way to make successful decisions either. Many business owners fall into this category particularly with financial issues. They write out cheques that they later regret because they could not afford the purchase.

Everyone makes decisions differently and within that uniqueness lays some fundamental components that can either be a blessing or a curse.

In my experience it is the combination of these three decision-making components that creates your decision-making profile and consequently determines how good, how fast and how efficient are your decisions, and how they will accelerate your business without exhausting you.

Often the challenges that confront us are just an indication that something needs to change. For example, if you are experiencing staff conflict this could be an indication that there are grey areas that need to be tidied up with more clearly defined HR Policies and Procedures that bring clarity to expected conduct and employee responsibility.

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The overly informed decision-maker also often misses opportunities.

A certain amount of data is certainly useful, yet we can get caught up with information overload, which can lead to also gathering conflicting information that can cause confusion and hinder decision making. Drowning yourself in business cases and research is not always the answer to good decision making, the focus should be about gathering the appropriate information from the most reputable and reliable sources and realising that decision-making is about both informed guesswork and foresight.

Another important element to successful management is the issue of timing. Being either too fast or too slow in your decision-making could make or break your business.

We are all familiar with the enthusiast who promises you the earth that they will take up an offer. They make decisions with every second breath, only to change their mind the next day. Working with people who are too fast to make decisions, especially if they subsequently change their mind, can be very frustrating. It is also an incredibly inefficient mode of conduct that can erodes your credibility because you don't always do what you say you will do, and this can be perceived by some as unprofessional, untrustworthy and even unethical. Being a person who delivers what they say is a key attribute to a good reputation.

On the other hand the procrastinator who can never make up their minds can not only miss opportunities, but can substantially compromise staff morale, momentum for productivity and the sense of urgency to complete tasks in a timely manner.

IN SUMMARY At the end of the day, making confident decisions requires the assurance that you possess the right knowledge. This is where lifelong learning is so important to any business owner or professional.

When time is of the essence in gaining your information, it may be prudent to turn to an expert who can quickly provide you with the information you need. If you are concerned with the fee consider the cost of an error of an inappropriate equipment purchase, or staff conflicts that can disrupt your business and cost you time and money.

If you are a financial member of APAN please don't struggle with your problems, we are only a phone call away, so please contact us and get our help. If you are not an APAN member there is not a better time to join and benefit from all the support and benefits available to you. If you would like further information please contact us on 07 5593 0360 email: info@apanetwork.com or visit our website www.apanetwork.com. You can also join through easy term payments and your membership is fully tax deductible.

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More than Skin-Deep How Nutrigenomics must forever change the way we care for skin Christine Houghton B.Sc.(Biochem.),Grad.Dip.Hum.Nutr.,R.Nutr.,PhD B.Sc.(Biochem.),Grad.Dip.Hum.Nutr.,R.Nutr.,PhD Cand.

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Nutritional Biochemist As scientists continues to search for ways to optimise health, longevity and youthfulness, they have identified the power of food and how in the right structure food can actually up-regulate good genes and silence bad ones. While antioxidants were the recommended way to control free-radical damage now we have a new and more efficient weapon – Nutrigenomics. In this article Dr Christine Houghton discusses the relevance of Nutrigenomics to aesthetic and dermal therapists and how this approach can substantially offer you quicker and better results for skin improvement and overall health. Dr Houghton will also be expanding in greater depth on this topic at the Australian Aesthetics Conference in Adelaide.

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Even before Cleopatra was bathing in asses’ milk to preserve the beauty and youth of her skin, humans have been on an insatiable quest to identify ways of retaining and restoring the youthful bloom of unblemished skin. Although it might seem that the application of various substances to the skin would be the logical way by which to restore the youthfulness to the skin, it appears that this may not be enough on its own.

It is well-known that the sun is a major cause of prematurely aged skin; we also know that those who smoke cigarettes over many years also exhibit the tell-tale signs of premature ageing. So what do these two phenomena have in common? Both are sources of unbalanced molecules known as 'free radicals' and these free radicals, if excessive, trigger chain reactions of damage in human cells.

Aestheticians have known this for decades, however, what is becoming increasingly apparent is that the tools we have used in the past to deal with the associated oxidative stress have not been very effective in preventing cell damage. The last six decades have shown that the antioxidant supplements, vitamins A, C, E and beta-carotene, have been not lived up to their expectation in preventing premature ageing and disease.

THE NEW PARADIGM: NUTRIGENOMICS But a new paradigm has been emerging; Nutrigenomics. The word's meaning is a combination of 'Nutri' meaning 'nutrition' or 'food' and 'Genomics', referring to our genes. In other words, “food talking to your genes”.

What Nutrigenomics has shown us is that food is so much more than a collection of proteins, fats, carbohydrates, vitamins and minerals; food contains thousands of other molecules which have properties we are only just beginning to understand. By harnessing the properties of certain food molecules, we can send powerful messages to our genes especially messages which promote repair and protect against harm.

This applies to every cell of the body equally and skin cells are no exception.

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WHY ARE OUR GENES SO IMPORTANT? Our genes are like a huge library of information which contains the code and instructions for every single thing about us. Your individual collection of genes contain the information which determines features from the colour of your hair and the shape of your toenails to whether

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you can run fast or dislike the taste of pumpkin! You are born uniquely different from anyone else who has ever been on this planet – unless you have an identical twin!

Each of us has around 25,000 genes and these genes are made up of long strands of coiled DNA. If you stretched out the DNA in all your cells and joined them together, that length would be about twice the diameter of the Solar System. That much information has to be worth looking after!

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WHEN YOUR DNA GETS DAMAGED

DNA, often described as a 'double-helix' because of its double-coiled shape, is a very delicate structure which can easily be damaged. When the sun's radiation, for example, is allowed to repeatedly penetrate human skin, a form of permanent DNA damage known as a mutation can occur. Some of the damaged genes will be those which hold the code the skin cell needs to make proteins like collagen or elastin. With a faulty code, the proteins which are now produced lose their natural properties; collagen may lose some of its tensile strength, elastin may progressively lose its elasticity.

The result? Premature ageing. This process occurs normally during ageing, but like Cleopatra, each of us wants to slow this process as much as possible. More concerning is the fact that when DNA damage becomes excessive, the result can be skin cancer – or any other form of cancer in the body. This is why it is so important to try to protect our cells against the DNA damage happening inside our cells and not just on the outside of our skin.

HOW FOOD 'TALKS TO' YOUR GENES Every mouthful of food we eat contains molecules of various chemical substances. After the food has been digested, the molecules are absorbed into the bloodstream and finally find their way into our cells.

Once inside the cells, these molecules send signals which can travel throughout the cell, many of them targeting the DNA in various genes. What's important is that healthy foods send signals to activate protective genes – but the molecules in ‘junk food’ and other unhealthy choices can activate the genes responsible for promoting inflammation and tissue damage.

Deep-fried fatty foods are known to be among the most harmful because the heat-modified fat molecules send damaging signals to the DNA. Such foods are therefore not just a dietary problem causing weight gain, their effect on the delicate DNA is an even greater issue, causing inflammation and tissue damage in the short term and eventually leading to permanent DNA mutations. The blackened parts of barbecued meats contain cancer-producing chemicals known as carcinogens, known to directly and readily cause mutations in the DNA. ㄰ 㤵 㜵

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HOW DO HUMAN CELLS PROTECT THEMSELVES AGAINST SUCH DAMAGE? Fortunately, human cells have their own inbuilt defence system, capable of dealing with such day-to-day attacks – up to a point. The antioxidant and other protective compounds we produce within our own cells are literally millions of times more effective in dealing with free radicals than are the antioxidant supplements with which we are familiar. Better still, we now know how to activate these defences in exactly the same way that Mother Nature does herself!

Human cells contain 'switches' that can activate the DNA in our cells to produce thousands of different and powerful cell-protective compounds. More importantly, we know which food-derived nutrigenomic molecules are the most potent activators of these cellular 'switches'. One of these 'switches' is now known to be a key to healthier ageing.

USING FOOD TO TURN ON THE DEFENCE 'SWITCH' One of the most powerful activators of the 'switch' which governs the cell's protective defence system is a compound from broccoli, known as Sulforaphane (Sul-4-a-fane). The problem is that most people don't like eating broccoli, or if they do, they don't eat it often enough or they cook it, destroying the sulforaphane.

Recently, nutrition scientists discovered that tiny sprouts of broccoli provide about 50 - 100 times more sulforaphane than is found in raw broccoli vegetable. As a result, capsules of broccoli sprouts can be used as supplements capable of activating the genes which govern cellular defence. This is a good example of a food talking to your genes, and broccoli sprouts are a perfect example of a nutrigenomic food.

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WHAT EXACTLY DOES SULFORAPHANE DO?

When you read that sulforaphane 'switches on' several hundred

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protective genes, you will recognise the importance of some of these genes because they are codes for: ! The cell's primary antioxidant enzymes ! Glutathione, another important antioxidant compound ! The Detoxification enzymes ! Protection against DNA mutations ! Anti-inflammatory processes ! Cell repair, including skin cells ! The Vitamin D receptor (needed for normal Vitamin D function) ! and much, much more.

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NUTRIGENOMICS – CHANGING THE WAY WE LOOK AT VITAMINS For six decades we thought that the antioxidant vitamins, A, E, C and betacarotene could provide human cells with the protection they need. We held on to the simplistic view that “Antioxidants are good and Free Radicals are bad”. We now know that low levels of free radicals are a necessary part of the cell's signalling processes.

Dumping megadoses of antioxidant vitamins into human cells actually masks the signals the cell needs to activate its defences. And that means that the protective nutrigenomic compounds found in healthy foods are unable to activate the 'switches'.

Evidence has been steadily gathering over the past 10 years or so to confirm that although these vitamins are absolutely essential in their roles as vitamins, they have not lived up to their claims in preventing disease or premature ageing; in fact in most studies, they do nothing at all unless the individual is deficient in them.

What we are doing with Nutrigenomically-active supplements such as one made from a high-grade broccoli sprout is working with Mother Nature, not against her! Humans have survived and thrived on this planet for thousands of years consuming the foods of nature – not synthetic vitamin pills.

CHOOSING NUTRIGENOMICALLY ACTIVE FOODS & SUPPLEMENTS Nutrigenomics is a very new branch of Nutritional Science and there are as yet, very few foods or

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supplements designated as such. The most effective appear to come from plants and so it is no surprise that a diet containing plenty of fruits and vegetables is an excellent place to obtain a wide variety of nutrigenomic compounds. In fact, the healthiest populations anywhere on the planet consume at least 600 grams daily of fruits and vegetables. If you were to weigh out 600 grams, you might be surprised at how much this is!

If you are choosing a sulforaphane-yielding supplement, look for one which is a 100% whole myrosinase-active broccoli sprout. This is because the sulforaphane is only produced when you consume it.

These tiny sprouts contain one inactive compound plus the myrosinase enzyme. Once you chew the fresh sprouts or swallow the powder or capsules, the enzyme immediately starts producing the sulforaphane. Most manufacturers however, destroy the enzyme before it gets to you – as a result, these products, which are usually described as 'extracts' or 'sulforaphane glucosinolates' contain only the inactive compound, which has no nutrigenomic activity at all.

WHAT DOES NUTRIGENOMICS MEAN FOR AN AESTHETICIAN? Because you take pride in offering your clients the very best opportunity to preserve their complexions and retard the ageing process, Nutrigenomics provides the perfect complement to the range of treatments you currently offer; complementing from the inside out. For procedures which may lead to even temporary peeling or scarring, a Nutrigenomic approach is the ultimate means by which to optimise the function of dermal and epithelial cells to promote healing and repair.

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As the business platform for IPL devices and their capabilities becomes more competitive researchers are looking at ways of improving on past models and providing more user-friendly technologies with less risks and greater efficacy.

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New to Australia, Brisbane-based company France Medical is launching in Australia and New Zealand Program E>O medical IPL devices from E-Swin in France. Program E>O is an innovative solution that is about to change the market of hair removal for salons and beauty clinics.

The exclusive E-Swin patented technology allows gentle and efficient treatment on skin prototype I (fair) to V (dark) and even tanned skin, plus it is not only effective on brown and dark h a i r, b u t a l s o b l o n d e h a i r.

Furthermore, Program E>O is highly affordable and can be introduced to any salon or clinic on a rental basis for as little as $50 per week. We recently interviewed Aurelien Coursodon, CEO of France Medical, in Brisbane to learn more about his company and this technology.

APJ 1: As France Medical is a new company to the Australian aesthetic professional industry can you please tell us a little about how you started out, the brand and its philosophy?

Aurelien: In 2009 together with my then business partner Thierry we launched a company called France

New Generation Technology offers credible IPL solutions for hair removal and beyond ㄰ 㤵

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Awards and Certifications

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Cosmetic as an importer and distributor of quality products from France to Australia. We considered various products including pharmaceuticals, but finally I decided to import medical devices, while Thierry decided to concentrate on gourmet foods.

Rhone-Alpes region in Lyon, where I am originally from, boasts of several industry leaders in the cosmetic and medical fields.

While researching my options and seeking to find reputable brands that wished to be represented in Australia, just by coincidence I discovered E-Swin, a French company based in Paris that had manufactured some amazing innovative products, including the E-One medical IPL hair-removal device for home use. I was very impressed and in a short time I was appointed the Australia, New Zealand and Japan distributor for these devices.

Thierry and I parted ways as he chose to take on the distribution of gourmet goods and so the original France Cosmetic company was replaced with France Medical, as I decided to focus and specialise in medical devices and the distribution of E-Swin products, the world leader of medical flash lamps.

Since then our company in Australia has grown and we recently relocated to new offices and an impressive showroom situated in Fortitude Valley, Queensland.

But let's take another look at the manufacturer E-Swin and what led to the development of their innovative IPL units.

Recognising the value and creditability of IPL technology, the researchers at E-Swin decided that any new advances in this technology had to provide, above all, safer and simpler solutions, while still achieving excellent results. The first step was to develop something that the general public could use and trust.

It took four years of research and development to reach that goal, but finally the E-One was developed. In 2007 the first

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medical IPL hair removal device medically certified for personal use at home was born.

In 2013, the E-One counts 60,000 plus users worldwide.

Meanwhile, our research in Australia confirmed that over 80% of professional beauty therapists still were not equipped with IPL technology. This was absolutely absurd when we know that 35% of Australians aged 18 and over (and 45% ages between 18 to 24) have confirmed they are very interested in permanent hair-reduction treatments on both face and body, not to mention other ages.

This gave E-Swin the incentive to pursue the development of IPL devices specifically manufactured for use within the aesthetic salons or clinics and led to the development of E>O program, a special unit for professional use, providing them with a cutting edge, yet affordable solution for permanent hair reduction. This was all in line with the company's philosophy, which is "To create innovative technology that will change habits and beliefs".

APJ 2: To what do you attribute the success of E-Swin products?

Aurelien: The success of E-Swin products is based on its ability to innovate extremely efficient devices using new advances in technology that offer a reliable solution to meet

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FRANCE MEDICAL – Specialists in IPL Technology offer several units including:

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HAIR REDUCTION: E>O75

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Using the third generation of IPL technology with flash-control technology (also called square pulse), the E>O75 is the leading technology for permanent hair-reduction treatments. It works on blonde, brown, dark hair colour skin phototypes I to V and thanks to its patented technology, it considerably reduces the risk of burn or scarring on the skin.

Unique feature of the E>O75 is that it can be used on tanned skin. There is no need to wait weeks before getting a treatment if the skin is tanned or planning to get tanned.

The E>O75 is using a unique concept that is very easy to operate - definitely the easiest IPL device to use on the market.

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SKIN REJUVENATION: W>O75

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We prefer to call the W>O75 "collagen stimulation"rather than skin photo rejuvenation.

By stimulating the collagen in the dermis, lines and wrinkles are considerably reduced as is the potential of post-surgery scarring.

Its action is going deep in the dermis using a ultralong pulse width that no other IPL device in the world ever reached (up to 400ms).

For optimum results eight treatments spaced by one week are recommended. Excellent results can be achieved when treating eye contour, face and décolletage.

SKIN PIGMENTATION: P>O75 For the treatment of skin discolouration, pigmentation and flat and benign pigmented lesions.

When you choose Program E>O, there are no credit checks and no firm commitments necessary. If we have to define the Program E>O in one word, it would be "Freedom".

DRY EYE SYNDROME: E>EYE (MEDICAL USE ONLY) For optometrists and ophthalmologists: the first flashlamp device in the world for the treatment of dry eye syndrome (due to meibomian glands dysfunction, which is more or less 80/90% of dry eye cases). This treatment will change the life of numerous individuals by relieving their handicap that they are currently only getting relief with artificial tears (eye drops). The unit has a Medical CE certification and is currently undergoing TGA registration.

Other new units that will be launched later in the year include:

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VASCULAR THERAPY: V>O75 㜵

For the treatment of vascular lesions and broken capillaries.

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ACNE TREATMENT: C>CLEAN

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For the treatment of acneic skin conditions and sebaceous gland disorders.

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100% of the market demand, which up until then had not been satisfactorily met.

For the Intense Pulsed Light technology, almost all the products on the market are still using the same 15-years-old technology. On the other hand, the technology made by ESwin is based on a new innovation that is radically different.

The Program E>O technology brings new standards of safety for the skin and can even be used on skin in phototype V (dark skin) during summer on tanned skin.

APJ 3: What are your goals in terms of covering the professional market?

Aurelien: Our goal is to revolutionise the hair-removal market. To do that, the French manufacturer has invested no less than $70 million over a three-year period to ensure what they developed offered a new standard of safety and ease of application that is affordable, yet without compromising results. With these objectives they believe that IPL devices can become affordable for all salons and clinics and can meet with client satisfaction and demand. As a result businesses can expect to consistently grow their market share and profitability.

APJ 4: Can you explain to us the Program E>O concept in greater detail?

Aurelien: The solution that we are offering to beauty and aesthetic professionals is to become a Program E>O partner so they can take advantage of a unique, innovative and affordable IPL hair-removal solution and introduce these services to their clients.

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First of all, we are so convinced of the reliability and efficiency of our devices that we are offering a “no commitment deal” with an amazing three-months minimum rental term, with the first month rent FREE.

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We have chosen to keep our rentals as low as possible with very affordable consumables. Tell me which salons in Australia cannot afford to rent an IPL hair-removal device for $50 a week? The answer I believe is quite simple every salon can.

When you choose Program E>O, there are no credit checks

and no firm commitments necessary. If we have to define the Program E>O in one word, it would be "Freedom". After a threemonth period of minimum rental terms each of our salon partners is free to terminate the contract at any time without any penalties.

This is what we call the "Freedom Contract" and we offer this because we are confident that our products will meet with expectations both in terms of results as well as financial rewards.

APJ 5: In what way do you believe that your IPL solutions are revolutionary?

Aurelien: I believe that our competitive advantage is that for the first time a company is investing with its own capital to allow professional salons and clinics to access the latest generation of IPL devices, and most importantly, they are not required to commit themselves to a three-to-five-year contract, which I believe is the best our competitors are offering at the moment.

Furthermore, we are offering them the right set of tools to help them develop their business smoothly. We equip them with full training and comprehensive treatment protocols with a complete range of documentations such as Client Consent Forms, as well as marketing materials such as posters, leaflets and promotional flyers to ensure the success of running their business with the Program E>O IPL device. We are basically giving the salons an all-inclusive package to start offering IPL treatment immediately.

APJ 6: We noted that you are not promoting your IPL devices on their technical specifications. This is quite an unusual way to market such a product. What is your reasoning?

Aurelien: This indeed is a choice that we've made. If you read the marketing and commercial documentation from many competitor companies and test their machines on a bench test, you will realise that many of their specification claims are false, especially regarding the much talked-about "fluence" (also called power) measured in joules per cm2. Indeed, there are actually no tools on the market specifically designed to measure the fluence of an IPL device, so measures given are often done with inappropriate home-made devices. We have seen some companies claiming fluences of 40 joules per cm2 and sometimes, even more! If this were true, each flash would make a hole into the skin.

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So better than giving our clients misleading or untrustworthy specifications, we prefer to provide and show them evidence that

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our technology delivers treatments with efficiency and safety and we can provide these through clinical studies made by independent doctors in hospitals.

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In the meantime, we are transparent with our clients, offering them a minimum rental contract of only three months with the first month for FREE, so they can see the results by themselves within their three month period. This will allow them to judge the results of our devices for themselves and decide whether to continue or stop renting.

vascular, pigmentation, acne and even a “medical only” unit that is used by optometrists and ophthalmologists specifically for dry eye syndrome. The devices are compact, modern in presentation, and highly efficient in performance and results. Apart from their numerous standards certifications these units have also won the H. Pierantoni Award for product innovation. As they are costeffective you can purchase the unit or units of your choice depending on the treatment or treatments you wish to offer in you clinic or salon. This flexibility is another unique feature that meets with industry demand.

APJ 7: What are the advantages that your devices and your company offer that will contribute to salons and clinics taking the step to respond to your offer?

Aurelien: We believe that Program E>O as well as all ESwin products offers numerous advantages that are different to anything else on the market. We are proud to offer the following quality assurance: ! All IPL devices are 100% developed and manufactured in France by the world’s largest IPL manufacturer ! They hold world-standard Certifications - Certified ISO 9001 and ISO 13485, but also all our devices have Medical CE certification and are registered with the TGA in Australia ! Supported by three-year clinical studies under the control of DermExpert Laboratories in Paris and Aix-enProvence ! Winner of the H. Pierantoni Award for leading product innovation ! All units come with unlimited warranty on the rental offers with a quick repair/replacement policy within 48 hours. ! We offer premium after-sales service to all our clients, free maintenance or replacement should any issue arise ! Unbeatable price.

But as I mentioned earlier, the biggest difference with our offer is the cost. Having a very low monthly rental and low cost for consumables for an immediate return on investment is such an amazing benefit.

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The secret of our products' efficiency is attributed to the realtime light energy, which is electronically controlled, allowing a powerful and constant light during the whole flash emission. Therefore the flash is homogenous, regulated, and allows you to treat patients' skin types from phototype I (fair) to V (dark) with more safety than any other IPL device on the market.

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It is hard to believe, but IPL devices in Australian are almost 100% more expensive that they are in Europe, until we arrived on the market with Program E>O.

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APJ 8: Does E-Swin offer only IPL units for hair reduction?

Aurelien: The advantage of working with E-Swin

innovations is that they provide specific units for various skincare concerns from hair reduction, skin rejuvenation,

OPTIONS FOR CLINICS AND SALONS France Medical offer four options for obtaining their devices.

Option 1: PURCHASE – this includes a two-year warranty with a quick repair or replacement policy within 48 hours and free training.

Option 2: RENTAL – Three-month minimum rental terms – $90 plus GST per week with a 100% refundable deposit.

Option 3: TWO YEAR MINIMUM RENTAL TERMS – $50 plus GST per week, with a 100% refundable deposit. This offer includes an unlimited warranty with quick replacement policy (repair/replacement within 48 hours) and free training.

Option 4: LEASE TO BUY – Includes a two-year warranty. Also includes an unlimited warranty with quick replacement policy (repair/replacement within 48 hours) and free training.

Purchase, Rental and Lease options all come with a full starter kit that includes essential marketing and legal documents such as: Treatment protocol, Customer leaflets, Post-treatment forms, Pre-treatment form, Post-treatment summary form, User manual, FAQ, Cost per treatment for men and women (guidelines) and Salon displayed on www.programeo.com.au directory.

ACCESSORIES: 1 pre-installed cartridge of 3,000 flashes, 1 litre of optical gel, 2 pairs of safety glasses, 1 cleaning spray, 2 white pencils, 1 set of patches and 1 guide plate.

CONSUMABLES PRICES Cartridge replacement: ! Rental options: $499 plus GST ! Purchase or lease options: $399 plus GST

OPTION FOR MOBILE THERAPIST Customised suitcase with wheels to carry the IPL device easily with all its consumables. ㄰ 㤵

For more information on Program E>O visit www.programeo.com.au You can also enquire about Program E>O IPL solution at enquiries@programeo.com.au or call France Medical representatives on 07 3108 5365.

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AUSTRALIAN AESTHETICS CONFERENCES 2013

Understanding the new Era of Aesthetics

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ADELAIDE Sunday 26th May 2013 8.00am – 5pm This is a fully catered and certified one day leading industry event.

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Crowne Plaza

16 Hindmarsh Square, Adelaide SA 5000 Phone: (08) 8206 8888 To Register visit: www.apanetwork.com Aesthetics and Dermal Therapies are challenging the traditional concepts of the industry. Learn what contributing global and educational factors are bringing about changes. Identify how this will affect you and how you can best position yourself for the future. Hear from the industry’s best through six dynamic conference sessions.

Why attend Learn Conceptualise Innovate Network Implement Who should attend

What you will gain

? Salon and Spa owners Practitioners and therapists IPL/Laser therapists Dermal therapists Aesthetic nurses Practice Managers Educators and Trainers Industry professionals

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? New industry trends ? Industrial relations changes ? Winning business strategies ? Scientific breakthroughs ? New Business tools ? Confidence and Direction “APAN's Conference presented me with some amazing information in a professional and quality educational environment. What I gained from this event allowed me to confidently change my direction and totally transform my business, bringing it to another level. This was my most valuable investment in my business and the best value for money. Everyone who is serious about their future career and business should attend.” Eva Boyd, NSW

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FEES: APAN Members $149 | Non-Members $169 Phone: 07 5593 0360 | Email: info@apanetwork.com | www.apanetwork.com

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Bringing a new standard of Education to Adelaide AUSTRALIAN AESTHETICS CONFERENCES 2013

Understanding the new Era of Aesthetics

Due to several requests from South Australia, Adelaide is our first destination for this year's Australian Aesthetics Conference program to be held at the newly appointed Crowne Plaza Hotel on Sunday 26th May. We have put together an amazing high-calibre program that aims to bring a new energy and momentum for growth to the region. With the theme Understanding the new Era of Aesthetics this trade-only event is specifically designed to empower industry professionals with the global perspective of how aesthetics is evolving as a profession, threats and opportunities and inside industry intelligence that will give you the competitive advantage.

Delegates can anticipate the educational level of this event to be of a high standard with a diverse and dynamic cross-section of topics from business, industrial relations, science, technology and an up-to-date industry overview of what is happening across the aesthetic world globally and in Australia.

This is a fully catered event so delegates will receive a buffet lunch, morning and afternoon tea, a kit with valuable information as well as gifts and prizes to be won on the day. As this is a certified educational event it is fully tax deductible supported with a Certificate of Attendance. The event will also feature a small exhibition of approximately 20 companies, some of which will be exhibiting for the first time. There will be 30-minute breaks between lectures so that you can meet and interact with the exhibitors.

CONFERENCE PROGRAM AND SPEAKERS REGISTRATION 8.00AM Please arrive promptly to collect your kit as the program will be commencing strictly on time at 8.30am.

Time: 8.30-9.30am Topic: Industry Changes and Your Strategic Intent for growth and profitability Speaker: Tina Viney – APAN CEO Based on the most up-to-date global and national research, this lecture will present key industry changes from business to education that will be shaping and changing the industry's identity. It will define the meaning and purpose of strategic intent and how this can empower you to stay at the forefront of your profession. This is a must-attend lecture that all business leaders and managers should attend. Tina will also present how some of these principles allow APAN to support businesses.

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Gain inside information on industry changes Get the latest figures on consumer trends Identify new emerging sectors Key strategies that can strengthen your business position

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Networking break 9.30-10am ㈵

Time: 10.00-10.45am Topic: Understanding the new Fair Work laws and pitfalls to avoid with Independent Contractors

Speaker: Michael Bishop – Director of Pointon Partner Lawyers Industrial relations is undergoing several changes causing many employers added stress in navigating and meeting their legal obligations under the Fair Work Act. In order to simplify their obligations many clinics and salons have chosen to employ staff as contractors. Pointon Partner Lawyers is considered as one of the most credible legal firms in Australia. In this compelling presentation Michael Bishop will address changes that employers must be aware of when employing staff and pitfalls to avoid when engaging on a contractual basis. This will also be an interactive session, so bring your questions for legal advice.

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Learning objectives:

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Common pitfalls with Independent Contractors and risks involved New changes to the Industrial Relations Law Understanding your options and obligations Services that can assist you to achieve compliance

Morning Tea and Networking Break 10.45-11.15am Time: 11.15-12.00 noon Topic: Serious Salon Spa Business Speaker: Caroline Nelson – Director, Nelson Beauty Business Management Any clinic, salon or spa owner/manager who is committed to a fatter bottom line profit, or who wishes to grow their practice or business in 2013 should attend this seminar. Caroline will present information for those who are seriously committed to developing a highly profitable business that can deliver not only financial security, but also allows them to have the lifestyle they deserve. Caroline Nelson is respected as one of the leading business coaches for the beauty industry. She is constantly evolving her business practices and has helped numerous businesses achieve incredible business growth and success.

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You will learn practical and realistic ways to improve your employees’ hourly productivity Techniques to maximise existing clients with cutting-edge insights to triple selling, cross-selling and retail conversion Take-home tools to allow you to immediately implement change Effective ways to plan and execute better business management

Networking break 12-12.30pm Time: 12.30-1.15pm Topic: Why is your IPL or Laser not giving you optimal results?

Speaker: Gay Wardle – Principal, Masters Dermal Academy, BHsc

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IPL technology is becoming one of the most popular treatments for achieving skin improvement and anti-ageing results. Yet, while you may be able to achieve safe practices without incidents or burns, are you really achieving the optimal level of result that you wish and that your clients or patients expect of you? Gay is a qualified Dermal Therapist and trainer in IPL techniques and advanced skin analysis and a multi-award winner. She has extensive experience in advanced protocols and anti-ageing techniques and her passion for on-going learning has earnt her the reputation of one of Australia’s most

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reputable and successful trainers.

Learning Objectives:

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Learn why you treatments sometimes fail to reach your objectives Common operator errors Wavelength differentiation How different skin types respond to light

Lunch Break and networking 1.15pm-2.15pm Time: 2.15-3.00pm Topic: Nutrigenomics – the catalyst for better health and antiageing skincare results Speaker: Dr Christine Houghton Bsc (Biochem.) Grad.Dip.HumNutr, Phd Both external and internal ageing are characterised by low-level inflammation. It therefore stands to reason that applying proven and safe internal protocols to minimise inflammation and optimise cellular energy and health is critical to any successful skin treatment.

Evidence-based research and advances in science have now identified a better and easier way of optiming the health of the skin and body.

Nutrigenomics utilised the power of food-derived biomolecules capable of “switching on” certain genes associated with cellular health, support disease prevention and speeds up cellular recovery.

Following 30 years in private practice as a nutritional biochemist and educator, Dr Houghton is currently engaged in further doctoral research at the University of Queensland, investigating Nutrigenomics phytochemicals and their impact on health.

Learning objectives:

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The broad clinical relevance of Nutrigenomics in the practice of Aesthetics The reasons why classical antioxidant supplements have not been shown to prevent disease or premature ageing Strategies to enhance the protective functions of human cells, including skin cells How Nutrigenomics can alter gene expression and what does that mean to your treatment of various skin conditions.

3-3.30pm Networking break and afternoon tea

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Time: 3.30 - 4.15pm Topic: Effective use of Emerging Communication Technologies Speaker: Mark Viney Dip. A, B.A Grad Dip Ed., AAA Cert. IT In the constantly time-poor business environment emerging new communication technologies can waste as much time as they can save if not used effectively. Learn how to achieve your goals in a timely manner through effective strategies of developing technologies.

Mark Viney is a qualified educator and IT expert. He has been involved with the Beauty and Aesthetics industry for over 20 years and understands the needs for businesses to work cost-effectively with minimum staff.

Cost-effective ways of communicating with your clients How to integrate technology for best results The best ways your business can benefits from Apps Presenting a unified business image across all communication technologies

CROWNE PLAZA ADELAIDE Located in the heart of the city's business district the just two years old 4.5 star 15-storey Crowne Plaza Adelaide hotel offers contemporary luxury in a modern setting. Step through the peaceful gardens of Hindmarsh Square and enter Crowne Plaza Adelaide's contemporary Lobby. It is just 15-20 minutes from the airport by taxi, while the hotel is fiveminutes' drive from Adelaide rail station. Enjoy a taste of South Australia’s exquisite cuisine with al fresco dining at the Redsalt Restaurant and Bar, where the highly skilled chef's evolving menu brings together local ingredients and flavours.

Why not arrive a day earlier and enjoy some of the tourist attractions of Adelaide? The weather in May is a pleasant 19-25C – the perfect temperature to explore the region. With over 100 fine restaurants within its square mile, there are plenty of menus to meander through all within a strollable distance. In a city dedicated to refined taste that extends beyond the plate and to the arts, in all its forms. There are also wonderful day tours such as the famous Barossa Valley Wine and Food Tour. Visit the South Australian Museum, renowned for its world-class natural history and cultural collections.

Get a taste of things at the Adelaide Central Market, indulge in Haigh's Chocolates or cruise on the Popeye riverboat through the heart of the city. Visit the giant pandas at Adelaide Zoo. Their names are Wang Wang (male) and Funi (female), the only giant pandas in the southern hemisphere. You can even take a behind the scenes tour and help prepare their bamboo breakfast. Another famous attraction is Kangaroo Island, a sanctuary for wildlife and natural, rugged beauty.

It's the perfect place to disconnect from the world and escape to an island you will never want to leave.

To Register visit www.apanetwork.com or phone APAN on 07 5593 0360 email info@apanetwork.com see page 31 for further details.

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Eyebrow Perfection through the

THREADING TECHNIQUE

By Tina Viney

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If you want to create an instant eyelift and wipe years off someone's face you cannot go past the power of beautifully shaped eyebrows.

Balanced correctly and shaped to perfection, eyebrows can transform a face quicker than any other procedure.

Trends come and go, but the “perfect eyebrow” is reigning supreme, gaining momentum in popularity as the envied feature that is in affordable reach for most of us. The art of eyebrow shaping is a highly desirable skill with a growing following of trend-setting women who are coveting after the look and facelifting impact of the perfect eyebrows. These women are prepared to seek out and pay extra for the expertly trained

practitioner who is skillful at the art of perfect eyebrow shaping.

While stencils have their place in creating intensity and balance, the foundation of a beautiful eyebrow still comes down to a good shape that is achieved through waxing, plucking or the growing popular procedure of eyebrow threading.

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Threading is an ancient method of hair removal. While threading is still a relatively new hair-removal technique in the Western world, it has been used in Eastern countries for centuries. Although the exact origins of the technique are unknown, many believe it originated in the Middle East and South Asia, and then spread to become popular in Far Eastern countries like China.

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Even though eyebrows are by far the most popular area for threading in the Western world, in India threading was traditionally used to remove hair from other parts of the face as well. The upper lip, chin, sideburns and cheeks were all subject to hair removal by threading, and some salons in the West offer these services in addition to eyebrow threading.

HOW DOES THREADING WORK? Originally when threading was introduced to Australia it was viewed as a simple or primitive hair-removal method, however, the results that can be achieved through a well-trained and experienced technician can be quite amazing and so its popularity is currently booming.

Threading begins with a loop of cotton thread that is about the thickness of dental floss. The thread is then twisted to create a series of

Threading is also delivered through a very fast technique. A complete set of eyebrows can be completed within 15 minutes and sometimes even less. It's also relatively inexpensive. Different practitioners have varying rates, but threading generally costs about the same as plucking and waxing and is very cost-effective to operate.

Diabetics or individuals on certain medications or with certain skin conditions are excellent candidates for the threading hair-removal technique because it's gentler on the skin than other types of hairremoval methods. For example, some dermatologists recommend that patients who are prescribed acne medications, including Roacutaine and topical retinoid creams, choose threading over waxing because this method only affects hair and poses no friction or potential irritation to the skin. Waxing, on the other hand, can remove a layer of skin along with the hair, especially in individuals whose skin has become more delicate or fragile in response to treatments. You will also find that allergic reactions to threading are rare, because the only equipment used is a simple cotton string instead of wax, which may contain an irritating substance to an individual.

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Threading is also commonly considered less painful than waxing and plucking. This, again, could be due to the fact that threading has much less contact with the skin than the other procedures. Additionally, it is a common expectation that hair will grow back thinner after multiple threading sessions. "knots" in the middle. Finally, practitioners move the twisted area rapidly back and forth across rows of hairs, grasping them at the root and removing them quickly and completely. No chemicals or other tools are needed.

Eyebrow threading is most common, even though it can tackle hair on other areas of the face as well. The procedure can only be done on flat surfaces of skin, which is why threading has not replaced waxing as the choice method of hair removal on the bikini line. Like waxing and shaving, however, threading does have the potential to cause infection, so correct training is needed as well as appropriate hygiene practices.

BENEFITS OF THREADING The benefit of threading that most sets it apart from other hair-removal techniques is by far its precision. While waxing and plucking can often leave unwanted stray hairs around the eyebrows that then need plucking with tweezers, a threading artist goes through the hair rowby-row, giving eyebrows a clean and defined shape. Threading only removes hair, not skin, and because it is so exact, it can remove hairs that are finer than those that can be removed by waxing or plucking.

CONSIDERATIONS Threading through its limited contact with the skin does not pose the risk of burns like waxing, however, you can still expect mild erythema and a little swelling as the hairs are removed at the root. Appropriate post-care treatment is therefore needed to ensure infection control and to minimise the possibility of developing folliculitis of the hair follicle. Also, while threading is generally considered less painful than waxing or tweezing, some individuals may still find it painful.

As with every technique correct training is paramount if you wish to introduce this service to your salon. Currently threading is not included in the Beauty Training Package, however, reputable and experienced practitioners are offering training. Techniques may vary slightly depending on the trainer's native country, however, the objectives are the same – a speedy and precise removal of unwanted hair with minimal contact with the skin.

If you are looking to add another procedure to the scope of your treatments then threading is one which is currently enjoying great popularity, and there are still relatively few practitioners who are trained to deliver it. For this reason it can give you a more competitive edge.

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REFERENCES (7): 10511054Verma, S. B. (2009). "Eyebrow threading: A popular hair-removal procedure and its seldom-discussed complications". Clinical and Experimental Dermatology 34 (3): 363365. doi:10.1111/j.1365-2230.2008.02920.x.

PMID 19021633. edit Litak, J.; Krunic, A. L.; Antonijevic, S.; Pouryazdanparast, P.; Gerami, P. (2011). "Eyebrow Epilation by Threading: An Increasingly Popular Procedure with Some LessPopular Outcomes A Comprehensive Review". Dermatologic Surgery 37

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COLLAGEN INDUCTION THERAPY and the Clinical Approach Collagen Induction Therapy, also known as dermal needling, is a modality that is growing in popularity. At this stage in Australia it is mainly taught as a postgraduate course through a few colleges and educators. Currently Queensland Health have approached APAN for their input into what safety aspects should be included for this modality in a regulatory framework, as at this point there is nothing in place.

Derma Aesthetics recently sponsored a series of full-day workshops with pioneering dermal needling expert Dr Lance Setterfield, who was in Australia in mid-February and conducted advanced workshops in Brisbane, Sydney and Melbourne. Dr Setterfield shared his knowledge, techniques and expertise and attracted much interest and attendance from industry professionals who were seeking to benefit from his knowledge and training.

Dr Setterfield is the author of The Concise Guide to Dermal Needling, medical director of Acacia Dermacare in Victoria, Canada and is one of the early advocates of the dermal rolling treatment modality. He is world-renowned and respected and has many years of experience and expertise in this modality.

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APAN was delighted to be given the opportunity to interview Dr Setterfield and we are pleased to present the results of this interview:

APJ 1: Dr Setterfield, when did your interest in Collagen Induction Therapy (CIT) occur and what made you undertake researching and practising this procedure?

It was offered as an option with the skincare line I had in my clinic in 2005. At the time I doubted something so simple could achieve what they claimed. One of my patients had Ehlers-Danlos Syndrome, an inherited connective tissue disorder caused by a defect in the synthesis of collagen. She was desperate to try something to prevent the inevitable and I was astounded that there was improvement with

needling when there ought not to have been. I then began to promote CIT with my other patients and the results were beyond expectations.

This prompted me to understand why and my research became the basis for my book, The Concise Guide to Dermal Needling.

APJ 2: Is there a limit to needle size to achieve Collagen induction Therapy and how do different needle sizes provide different treatment outcomes?

There are a multitude of devices with varying length needles.

Conventional wisdom dictates that injury at the depth of the dermis is required to obtain collagen induction. This typically requires a minimum length needle of 0.5 mm. If one is targeting stretch marks or acne, in general the length required is 2.0 mm because the pathology is deeper in the skin. Some manufacturers make a 3.0 mm device, but this treatment requires pain control in an OR setting and the results in studies have shown no advantage over a 1 mm when used for antiageing purposes. I have some theories of my own, based on clinical experience that can be explained scientifically, that epidermal injury, or cosmetic needling using 0.2 mm or 0.3 mm, causes similar results to dermal needling.

Editor's Note: Dr Des Fernandes, who is also one of the pioneers of CIT would also agree with that position.

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APJ 3: What should a therapist consider when selecting the correct rolling treatment technique and how is cell function and structure affected by this treatment?

The industry has promoted the roller as some sort of magic wand that gets results. It is not. This simplistic approach ignores the fact that it is essential to establish the underlying cause of a problem in order to decide what treatment modality to choose and to know what the chance of success will be. In addition, being able to link product ingredients to skin condition is essential. Needling releases growth factors and cytokines (protein signalling molecules made by cells to communicate with each other). These molecules regulate cell function and repair cell structure. Needling also allows more essential cell nutrients required for function and repair contained in products to enter to the depth they are required.

APJ 4: What skin conditions and skin treatment results can be achieved with Dermal Rolling and Collagen Induction Therapy, and in what way can the skin benefit from improved skincare penetration? Can you give us some examples?

Skin conditions that respond best to needling include wrinkles, enlarged pores, hyperpigmentation and scarring. Other conditions such as stretch marks, lax skin and hair loss have varying results.

Restoring hair growth, apart from the underlying cause, is dependent on the type of product used with needling, and this is a good example where maximum penetration of active compounds offers better results in a very challenging condition to treat.

APJ 5: Can you explain the biological alterations and effects that occur with CIT and what wound-healing patterns can help improve ageing skin?

We are looking to mimic the embryo wound-healing pattern because it is scarless and needling does this best because the growth factors and cytokines released are similar to those found in the embryo.

Following any injury there is a cascade of biochemistry set into motion, which is too complex to cover here. However, it is interesting to note that the inflammatory response is absent in embryo wound healing. With this in mind, and given all the evidence today regarding the multitude of diseases caused by inflammation, I take a position contrary to conventional wisdom in the skincare industry that the inflammatory response should be provoked and prolonged.

APJ 6: In your opinion what would you classify as "Medical Rolling" and what protocols and training is essential in achieving safe treatment outcomes?

Needles greater than 1.0 mm in length are considered “medical”.

Protocols and training requirements will differ according to country and licensing bodies. Standard infection-control practices are required with any procedure that penetrates the skin. Needling is a very safe procedure and when protocols are adhered to side-effects are minimal and pale in comparison to those seen with other treatments such as Laser and IPL.

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APJ 7: How important is technique to effective treatment outcomes and in your opinion, what are the key errors that have resulted in adverse effects with CIT? Perhaps the most important factor for effective treatment is obtaining the correct endpoint, in other words, knowing when to stop. Most treatments are hopelessly insufficient in that too few passes are made over a particular area. Knowing how much pressure to apply is key, especially around the eyes, and holding the roller at the correct angle to allow the needles to touch down along the orbital rim. Negative outcomes can be avoided by changing direction of rolling frequently to avoid track marks. Bruising below the eyes can be avoided by rolling away from the nose. Recognising skin lesions and conditions where needling is contraindicated goes without saying. Pressing too

hard on the neck and chest can cause urticaria.

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APJ 8: Explain to us the importance of the chemistry of the posttreatment products that are recommended for use and their effects and which products not to use and why?

The basic premise is to replace moisture lost during the procedure and stop the inflammatory response in its tracks. While some things are not detrimental to cell function, you may want to avoid them because they sting when applied immediately afterwards. For example, hyaluronic acid. Antioxidants and anti-inflammatory substances like phosphatidylcholine are essential.

One also needs to avoid ingredients that cause inflammation and these typically include all the names on the label that one cannot pronounce in the inactive ingredients section. Anything that does not belong in the skin will be recognised by our immune cells and inflammation will result.

Therefore, using products that contain ingredients that mimic substances in our skin is best.

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APJ 9: Where do you see the role of CIT in the future of antiageing skincare and in your opinion how much training is needed to ensure efficacious treatment outcomes and safe practices?

I suspect that CIT with needling may decrease in the years to come because people are inherently lazy and as stem cell technology, growth factors and cytokines become incorporated into products with better delivery systems, such as liposomes, results will be greater with minimal effort on the consumer's part. However, I think we are still about five to eight years away from this. Training is needed in the form of education for diagnosing and prescribing more so than needling technique. Needling is the easy part and safe practices are already mandated by most licensing bodies in the industry.

APJ 10: How do you determine how often to perform a CIT treatment in a salon? Can you over-treat and what are the risks of over-treating?

Skin cells have life cycles and healing follows a 28-day cycle, so if we want to work with nature to harness its power, we should keep this in mind. Therefore salon treatments should be done once a month with the exception of acne scarring, which is every two months. The scarred areas take longer to catch up with the normal tissue after injury, so treatments performed too frequently result in a greater discrepancy in height between the normal and scarred border, which casts more of a shadow. Remember also that collagenase (an enzyme that breaks down collagen) is triggered for the first day or two after needling. This assists in removal of damaged protein after injury.

After the demolition crew has done their work, the “rubble” is removed before the construction crew moves in to rebuild. After two weeks, collagenase enters the picture again to put the brakes on collagen production and smooth out the rough edges, so to speak. If this did not happen, we would just keep on building collagen and a scar would result. Hopefully you can see that collagenase would be constantly peaked if one needled once a week, not to mention all the inflammatory substances that swarm in after injury.

APJ 11: Do you recommend the home use of the needling rollers for product penetration and should this be done indefinitely or just for a limited period of time?

Home rolling is the mainstay of any treatment program and should be done indefinitely; after all, we feed ourselves every day. Why not feed our skin from the outside too. Remember, it is not just about product penetration, but release of growth factors and cytokines.

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For more information on Dr Setterfield's lecture Email enquiries@skincorrection.com.au or call 1300 420 223.

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factor". This protein plays an important role in angiogenesis. Among the many factors implicated in angiogenesis, VEGF has been identified as one of the most potent and predominant. As its name suggests, VEGF stimulates vascular endothelial cell growth, survival and proliferation.

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Effective Protocols for Hyperpigmentation The FluorOxygen+C Solution

By Matoyla Kollaras Hyperpigmantation (HP) treatments are best administered during the autumn/winter months addressing post summer damage.

Climatically, this is a safer time to treat this condition as treatments often involve acids and other active ingredients or systems, and with the cooler months this is more conducive to this skin type. From autumn on the sun is less aggressive and daylight is shorter and more favourable. This is very important when treating HP as not only can treatments be ineffective when the weather is very hot or humid, but the condition can worsen, or there can be long-term damage to the skin itself.

GOVERNING FACTORS TO HYPERPIGMENTATION Hyperpigmentation disorders of the skin are common and usually harmless, but can be the source of significant psychological distress for patients. The most common of these disorders are melasma and post inflammatory hyperpigmentation.

HP is often caused by inflammation, hormonal change or genetic factors. Inflammation can come from prolonged sun exposure, tanning beds, acne, through the use of lasers or other injuries to the skin (PIH).

Hormonally induced hyperpigmentation (melasma) most often appears during pregnancy (sometimes known as the mask of pregnancy), but can occur with any fluctuation of hormones such as puberty, birth control (pills and patches) and menopause. Other factors include: stress, vitamin and mineral malabsorption, endocrine disorders, illness or certain medications.

PRIMARY MANIFESTATIONS

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There are several manifestations associated with hyperpigmentation disorders. These include: 1. Age/liver spots, solar lentigines or even freckles 2. Post Inflammatory Hypermegmentation (PIH). This may manifest as a result of post acne, trauma, chemical peels, laser treatments and skin diseases.

3. Melasma is quite frequently the bane of dermatologists world-wide.

Treatments and outcomes are usually disappointing. Here are some interesting facts about this condition: ! Occurs exclusively on sun-exposed areas ! Higher incidence in darker skin ! A serious and very difficult condition to treat ! In many countries it ranks among the top 10 most common skin disorders ! Ethnic differences influence the efficacy and tolerability of melasma treatments ! Melasma shows more solar elastosis than normal skin

As seen in preclinical models, VEGF has been shown to facilitate survival of existing vessels and contribute to vascular abnormalities such as hyperpigmentation that may stimulate new vessel growth. Vascular endothelial growth factor (VEGF) is a chemical signal produced by cells that stimulates vasculogenesis and angiogenesis. When these genes are overexpressed, they can lead to disease.

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TREATMENT APPROACH RECOMMENDATIONS

As pigmentation is the natural self-defence mechanism of the skin, inflammation and immune response factors are involved.

Therefore, if not treated with the appropriate protocols, it can lead to damage to the skin's DNA, RNA and many other skin structures.

Here are some recommendations: 1. EASY DOES IT: Do not treat any form of HP aggressively. HP is already in an inflamed state, therefore aggressive treatments can cause further inflammation and worsen the conditions.

2. PROPER DIAGNOSIS: Successful skin-lightening treatments will depend first on understanding two key factors: a. the reason or cause of the HP, b. the depth of the melanin (epidermal or dermal).

Determining these factors is critical to the approach and protocols you should select in order to treat the condition properly and without causing irreversible damage.

3. ALWAYS TREAT DARK ETHNIC AND ASIAN SKIN CAUTIOUSLY: Regardless of how fair or how dark an Asian skin may be always treat it with caution and as a Fitzpatrick V skin type.

4. DERMAL HP: Hyperpigmentation that is located in the dermis, no matter what the manifestation will be very difficult to treat and they need a multidisciplinary approach.

5. DON'T TRY TO REMOVE ALL PIGMENT: It is not safe to attempt to remove all of the pigment with long-term aggressive treatments such as such as hydroquinone, as the reverse hypopigmentation, which is the loss of skin colour caused by melanocyte or melanin depletion may occur and this state is irreversible.

KEY ACTIVE INGREDIENTS IN THE TREATMENT OF HP One of the most effective ways to treat hyperpigmentation is through use of key active ingredients. When appropriate ingredients are harnessed and delivered correctly they have the ability to refine and remove pigmented cells, repair damage, prevent over-expression of pigment production and communicate with skin cells – theoretically this means that they can tell skin cells how to look and behave more like younger and healthier cells. A synergy of scientifically validated ingredients have the potential to repair DNA & RNA damage as well as vastly improve the health and defence system of the skin.

FLUOROXYGEN + C TREATMENT AND HOME CARE Fluoroxygen+C is a para-medical treatment for skin discoloration and photo-damage. It lightens visible epidermal layers, while regulating melanin production in the deeper epidermis. It provides long-term protection against biological and environmental factors that cause discolouration.

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Christina Cosmeceuticals offer a highly effective treatment for hyperpigmentations that is also supported with effective homecare products. The range contains actives such as Glycolic, Lactic, Salicylic Acids, Retinol, Ascorbic Acid, Green tea, Vitamin E and Lycopene as its key ingredients.

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New research shows that a signal protein called VEGF is associated with melasma. VEGF (also known as VEGF-A, but commonly referred to simply as VEGF) stands for "vascular endothelial growth

For further information contact SKIN FACTORS PTY LTD 1800 824 282 | www.christina-cosmeceuticals.com.au

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My Business Manager

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Bringing an effective Corporate Tool to Small Business

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One of the challenges of running a small business, while juggling your daily activities, is really knowing what is truly going on in your business and accessing detailed analysis of how the various departments of the business are performing.

Ian McManus, Managing Director of My Business Manager Pty. Limited, has had a long and successful career in the Australian IT industry and in both corporate and private enterprise. Ian's strength is in taking complex situations and requirements and distilling them down into easy-to-understand solutions that can be used by all levels of expertise.

In 2005 Ian developed a software program called MY BUSINESS MANAGER. This program provides a business management dashboard and reporting solution that includes Financial Management, Cash flow, KPIs, Business Performance and Business Intelligence to the global SME Business market.

This is a simple to operate, yet powerful tool that promises to transform how businesses analyse their activities, evaluate each aspect of their business and determine their direction based on critical data that reflects how their business is performing in a quick and efficient way.

MY BUSINESS MANAGER was launched as a suite of subscription solutions that are recognised by the financial community as “best of breed”. For the first time Ian is now focusing on providing effective management solutions to salons and clinics across Australia.

We caught up with Ian to find out more about this program and how it can assist businesses within our industry.

APJ 1: Ian, what brought about the development of the MY BUSINESS MANAGER program?

Ian: In the corporate world every large company has programs that

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can immediately analyse and give them statistical data of everything from unit costs, turnover, profitability of every product, as well as across every aspect of the business's activities, including their staff sales performance and productivity. These are very sophisticated programs that cost $50,000 plus, but are not affordable for the average small business. However, having experienced the amazing value of what they offer corporations I decided to develop a similar product that would provide the same level quality information, but through a more affordable payment structure.

I noticed that while several small businesses had their accounting up to date they were still experiencing difficulties and didn't know how to resolve them. This was a niche that needed a solution. After several years of research and investing over $2 million My Business Manager program was developed.

APJ 2: Why should a business invest in this program?

Ian: Today most businesses use accounting program like MYOB, Quick Books or Xero, however, these programs are designed to break down figures for taxation purposes and invoicing. Not everyone can read and understand their graphs and breakdowns. How many people fully understand how to interpret their tax return other than just looking at the bottom line? Furthermore, these programs do not really offer sufficient information to help a business assess its management and marketing position. They don't provide businesses the right kind of information that can allow them to determine the specifics of how the business is performing and the best options on which way to progress.

My Business Manager was designed to offer analytical information that will allow the business owner to identify exactly where their best productivity is coming from through management reports, graphs, dashboards and pictures. This program will help bring valuable information to their fingertips from cost of sales, the return and profitability of each of their products, each staff member's performance and sales activity, where they are losing money and where the business is gaining momentum. With such valuable information, determining the best course of action becomes easy.

APJ 3: Tell us some of the features of the program?

Ian: My Business Manager offers a business numerous business management features, such as: a.

Cash flow – actual and forecasts, so you know your position b.

KPs to determine your financial position c.

The number of clients that their staff are servicing d.

Budgeting and forecasting – an easy to use Toolkit to do it for you e.

Trend Analysis– forecasts and projections f.

Non-financial, user-defined, performance KPIs – track the activities that generate income g.

Business plans and more – a range of templates, just answer the questions. h.

Financial reports i.

Accounts receivable and payable j.

Consolidations – see how the complete business is performing k.

Job, Class and Category, budgeting and reporting – now you can control projects and jobs l.

Dashboard graphics to determine your business position at a glance – Macro and Micro views All these features offer a business valuable detailed information on their business's performance so that they can make informed decisions based on the specific data they have on hand as to exactly where the business is losing and where it is performing the best. This is powerful information that can give the business owner greater control and allow them to establish a course of action that is based on analytical statistics that reflect what is really happening in the business.

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APJ 4: Do you need someone to interpret the data?

Ian: No, you do not need any qualifications to learn how to use the program. Once it is set up it will automatically highlight weekly or monthly reports that will show you how your business is performing in a quick, detailed and efficient manner.

APJ 5: What can a business gain from My Business Manager?

Ian: My Business Manager is designed to bring critical information on how the business is performing in a lot more detail than other programs out there. As I stated earlier, this is a corporate tool that has a great deal of sophistication, and part of its brilliance is that it has been designed to bring valuable information automatically to the business owner. This will now allow them to benchmark their performance, do monthly or yearly comparisons so that they can accurately evaluate the business's performance, determine where its profitability is coming from and where they are losing money.

This can give a business owner a great deal more confidence and assurance on how to resolve many business management issues and the best way to move forward. Ultimately, it can become the tool that can save a business from failure through accurate analysis. My Business Manager gives businesses the tools and information to make good decisions that are critical to a healthy business.

APJ 6: What process is needed to take on the program?

Ian: The program is designed for the business owner who is time poor and who needs an efficient but easy tool to guide and navigate through challenges so that they can make sound business decisions. A program that is easy to run and cost effective. The program is sent to you to install yourself. You can download it on to your computer or laptop, it's that easy. You then book a one-hour orientation session

With the company for a cost of $149. We guide you through all the features of the program and how to reach your first report. From there on you are OK. The cost is just $50 leasing fee per month, including support and new releases, as well as white papers on how to improve your business.

If you are too busy, using Dropbox you just send us your file each month and we will run the reports for you for an extra $9 per month.

We send a copy to you by email and then you can send it to your accountant if you want – it's that easy!

AP 7: Can you give us a common feedback that you get from your clients?

Ian: One of the most common statement we hear is, “I don't know how

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I ran my business without it. It has made life so much easier and it is amazing what we have discovered about our business”. There is no easier way to manage your business and to achieve your goals.

SPECIAL OFFER Phone Ian McManus and mention this article to receive: 1. Free access to a range of 10 Business Plan templates including Operations Manual, Feasibility Studies etc. See link http://www.mybusinessmanager.com/Public/BusinessPlanTemplates.aspx or 2. 50% discount on the first 3 months subscription of My Business Manager (worth $75)

My Business Manager is a group of subscription solutions. Just use the modules that suit your business. Please visit http://www.mybusinessmanager.com for more details or contact Ian McManus Email: ian@mybusinessmanager.com or on Phone: 07 5641 1628 or Mobile: 0417 224 021

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ASK THE EXPERT ASK THE EXPERT

Solutions, insights and advice for problems that arise at work

I have been working as an employee, but now I am considering stepping out to start my own business. Can you give me any advice as to what I need to have in place?

I have become aware of the new Dad and Partner Pay scheme.

Can you please explain who can qualify for it and what my obligations are as an employer?

Starting your own business can be a very exciting thing, but it also has a certain amount of risks that you need to be prepared for. In today's financial climate it is important that you research your market location thoroughly, determine the costs of setting up, price out your treatments in relevance to your new overheads and also assess the need and cost of engaging staff. You also need to contact your local Council to ensure you are abiding by the Health Regulations as they will stipulate to you.

Government support is now available for dads or partners (including same-sex partners) who are caring for a baby or who adopt a child.

From 1 January 2013, Dad and Partner Pay will be available under the Paid Parental Leave Scheme.

All these areas can be successful accessed to give you a true picture of your position and what you need to have in place in order to succeed.

However, while you may be an excellent practitioner, the skills needed to own and operate a successful business are substantially different to being highly skillful at what you need. For this reason it is advisable that you take an objective evaluation on what is needed and then decide if this is really what you want to do. To help you determine this consider the following before starting a business: ! your reasons for getting into business ! will the business satisfy your needs ! your level of skills in running a business ! your business goals ! the advantages and disadvantages of establishing your own business ! time requirements and commitments.

Your business has a better chance of succeeding if there is a good match between your idea, and your skills, interests and motivations.

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APAN also has an excellent document that will assist you in your evaluation and planning. This document is called “Starting your business Checklist”. This is a 51-page document and is available for $44. This document will help you assess objectively what is needed.

It will help you determine what you need to do: 1. Before you start a business 2. When you start a business 3. When you buy a business 4. Running your business If you still believe that you have the resources and the passion to continue then this document will help safeguard and support your success.

If you are an eligible working dad or partner, you can get up to two weeks of government-funded pay at the national minimum wage, which is currently $606 per week before tax.

Employers don't have to process any payments, however, if you're a business owner it's important to be aware of Dad and Partner Pay as your employees may approach you about it. Full-time, part-time, casual, have recently changed jobs and even self-employed workers, including those working in a family business, may be eligible to receive Dad and Partner Pay if they meet the criteria.

If eligible, you can get Dad and Partner Pay any time in the first year after your child's birth. You need to be on unpaid leave or not working during your Dad and Partner Pay period (up to two weeks). You can choose when your Dad and Partner Pay period will start. It can start from the day your child is born or it can start later. If you'd like to receive the full two weeks pay, your start date needs to be within 50 weeks of your child's birth. You don't need to be working full-time to meet the work test.

If you work for a family business or you're self-employed, you can include your hours of work even if the business is not making any income. Note: a working day is a day you have worked for at least one hour. If you are an employer you don't have worry about these payments as they do not come under your jurisdiction. Your employee will need to apply and be paid directly from Centrelink on completion of an application form with the supporting proof of the child's birth. While your employee may be entitled to apply for this support they will also need to work out a time that will suit your business needs as well as their needs. In other words, taking the two weeks unpaid leave from your work should be something that needs to be thoughtfully negotiated by both parties.

If you require further assistance please phone APAN on 07 5593 0360 or email: info@apanetwork.com to discuss your needs with an expert.

NOTE: These services are available for free ONLY TO APAN FINANCIAL MEMBERS.

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on t n e igh e s As y Ton a d o T

Herbal Aktiv Peel® from Alex Cosmetic in Germany is a skin resurfacing treatment based entirely upon dried, crushed herbs. The Herbal Aktiv Peel®: • Does not contain any synthetic acids or abrasives.

• Has a 50 year history of proven results with a wide variety of skin conditions.

• Does not injure the skin in order to cause the peeling.

The Herbal Aktiv Peel® will help your skin appear visibly improved, finer in texture, clearer and younger in just 5 days.

® Herbal Aktiv Peel is suitable for:

• • • •

Wrinkles Sun Damage Scarring Pigmentation

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Acne/Pimples Enlarged Pores Blackheads/Milia Stretch Marks

Crow’s Feet

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Pigmentation

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Result achieved after 1 treatment Courtesy of Vogue Beauty Clinic, Launceston TAS

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Result achieved after 3 treatments

Available only from accredited skin clinics Australia wide.

For more information visit omniderm.com.au or call 1300 301 007

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Franchising the Home-Based Business Lisa Chelsom of Skin Naturelle

No less than 10 years ago a home-based beauty business was considered as a hobby business. Typically, it involved a mother who could not afford to go out for a full-time job because of family commitments, but still needed to support the family with some financial assistance. Her clients were predominantly friends and neighbours and she would average 8-10 appointments a week – hardly a serious business model. However, all this is changing.

Since the global economic downturn many businesses, including beauty businesses, have struggled with commercial rental increases, changing IR laws and the more conservative spending habits of consumers at large. At the end of their leases many salons have chosen to downsize and work from home. From our feedback with product suppliers the home-based business is starting to shape up as a popular business model, with several business owners investing in a separate entrance of the business to their home, while also investing in layout and designs that resemble a truly professional business environment.

With such an undertaking the business will need to function with appropriate treatment, financial, operational and marketing systems so that it can survive and grow as a business. As most home-based businesses cannot rely on foot traffic to attract new clients they need to identify, formulate and implement an appropriate marketing and advertising plan that looks professional, but is designed to suit their specific circumstances. This can sometimes be overwhelming, but now there is help at hand.

Skin Naturelle is a franchising business model that has been formulated to specifically support and meet the needs of the homebased beauty business. Skin Naturelle is the brainchild of qualified beauty therapist and business entrepreneur Lisa Chelsom who, having identified a gap in this market, invested meticulously in designing a business franchise model specifically for this business sector. Here we speak to Lisa about how this all came about and what the franchise offers potential investors.

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APJ 1: Lisa, tell us what led you to get involved with franchising a home-based beauty business?

Lisa: In my younger years I worked for four years with McDonald's.

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This allowed me to experience the advantages of a franchise business model at its very best. From the outset I was impressed, so I learnt how the systems worked and the benefit and value of establishing

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business systems that ensured uniformity of standards and made maintaining those standards easy to follow and duplicate. I then went on to train as a beauty therapist and when I graduated I worked for two years as an employee and later as a business owner with the support of business coaches. However, I never forgot what I had learnt at McDonald's and realised that this industry could also greatly benefit from franchising, as many of the salons I observed lacked appropriate business systems to help streamline their operations at every level.

APJ 2: Who would your franchise model suit and are there levels and options to choose from? Give us examples?

Lisa: Before developing this business model I did quite a bit of research to identify specific industry needs so that I could put together a franchise system that addressed the various individual needs of home-based businesses. As a result Skin Naturelle was developed to suit a variety of individual needs. Here are some examples: a. The graduate – who wants to set up business and work for herself, but has a limited budget b. The excellent therapist – who has amazing skills in delivering treatments, but has limited experience or skills in stepping out into her own business c. The current business owner – who no longer wants to pay rent and wishes to transition to a home-based business, but has a vision to grow the business with plans to expand to the next level d. The abused employee – who is working long hours within a poorly run business with inadequate management and organisational structure and feels over-extended, underappreciated and finally wishes to step out on her own.

Our franchise system offers you options we can set up absolutely everything for you – furniture, equipment, products, operations,

treatment, financial and marketing policies, procedures and system as well as training, so you can just walk in and start your business. On the other hand if you already have a business in place, but want to upgrade everything and bring it up to a new level you may choose to purchase some elements of the franchise only. We can customise the systems to whatever our clients need.

APJ 3: What advantages does your franchise model offer a business?

Lisa: Many home-based businesses often feel isolated and overwhelmed as the dynamics of this business model is very different to a business in, say, a shopping centre. The Skin Naturelle franchise offers them numerous advantages: ! Proven business model – Where all the mistakes have been identified and policies and procedures are set up to safeguard the business from such errors. We have worked with a franchise expert to ensure fool-proof, fine-tuned and easy to implement operational systems at all levels of the business ! You are no longer on your own – You are in business with someone who can give you expert guidance and support at any time ! Training in advanced procedures – Our training is not just for the business, we also train you in advanced technologies and protocols to deliver high income-earning treatments ! On-going training – To keep you up to date with new skills development ! Proven business and marketing strategies – That will start making you money straight away.

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If you believe we can be of help to you regardless of what State you are in please contact Lisa Chelsom, Skin Naturelle, Ph: 07 3824 6406 Email: skinnaturelle@optusnet.com.au

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FINANCIAL LENDING for business expansion Learn how to maximise your position to qualify for a business loan and what provisions are available to you in today's financial environment Chrish Samuel – Managing Director One of the services that APAN has negotiated for the benefit of its members is accessing financial lending for the purchase or leasing of equipment, a car, or even purchasing a business. In this tough economy climate banks have become far more cautious and stringent in lending money. It is therefore prudent that you understand the current criteria that banks go by when determining an application for a loan. Additionally, with leasing there are traps that you need to be made aware of, for example, can you exit a lease earlier than the agreed time?

Chrish Samuel is a qualified and experienced professional in the area of financial lending. He is the Managing Director of Capricorn Financial – a financial company under the Samuel Group of companies and a strategic partner with APAN for the purpose of supporting its members to gain the appropriate loans or leasing arrangements to run their businesses successfully. ㄰ 㤵 㜵

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This interview with Chrish Samuel will present valuable information to help you understand how to better position yourself to qualify for financial assistance so that you can gain leverage in the current business market to achieve your goals.

APJ1: Tell us a little about the current economic environment in terms of institutions and banks lending money, and how can a business prepare adequately to optimise their position in getting a loan?

Chrish: In the present economic climate banks and other financial institutions have reverted back to taking a very conservative approach in regards to the types of transactions in which they will lend towards.

As a result of a very poor retail sector and the downturn in the commercial property market, banks and financial institutions are looking for strong transactions backed by very experienced operators who are well asset backed to counterbalance any potential risks that may occur during this time of instability within the financial sector.

Banks and lenders are not only looking for securitisation and strong financials within their lending criteria, they are also placing special emphasis on the personal credentials of operator/business owners and their ability to run a profitable business; this also applies to start-ups and new business owners. In other words, what qualifications do you have to run the services you wish to provide and what business skills and appropriate business strategies do you have in place, such as a comprehensive business plan on the goals of the business and how it will operate.

APJ 2: How do leasing arrangements work such as Flexirent, and can you provide any other options that offer greater flexibility?

Chrish: Leasing arrangements terms vary and can be paid over 12-60 month flexible arrangements. Each company has its own requirements that can differ extensively from one company to another.

In examining how to support businesses in accessing more flexible leasing arrangements our company, Capricorn Financial, now has introduced a NO DOC finance product that is quick and easy, so that

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you can get keep to running your business without the need for worrying about finance applications.

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A guide to repayments is shown below. There are no early payment fees. What that means is that if you chose to pay off the loan early, we do not penalise you for doing so, unlike other leasing and rental companies. You remain the sole owner of the equipment throughout the process as we do not take a controlling interest over the equipment, due to the financing.

APJ 3: What does NO DOC mean?

Chrish: Exactly that, “no documentation”. We provide you a loan based on your answers to a few simple questions, without the headache of providing financials and tax returns, etc. This is quick and simple.

Here is an example:

Capricorn Financial NO DOC Equipment Loan $1,000.00 $10.00 pw $5,000.00 $50.00 pw $10,000.00 $100.00 pw $15,000.00 $145.00 pw $20,000.00 $194.00 pw $25,000.00 $240.00 pw (based on a three year loan term, all amounts include GST)

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we are one of Australia's leading finance consultants providing business equipment, vehicle, commercial and home finance all over Australia. Our consultants are industry experts, with the knowledge and experience to tailor the most appropriate finance solution for you and your business.

With Capricorn Financial you have instant access to a large panel of the best lenders in Australia, combined with the buying power of a large finance facilitator, therefore giving you cheaper interest rates.

We are registered members of the MFAA (Mortgage & Finance Association of Australia) and the Credit Ombudsman Service. With over 20 years' experience within commercial and consumer lending

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equipment finance to the purchase of your building. We have consultants who are very experienced in this field, and if you are an APAN member you are entitled to a free consultation to discuss your needs. Just quote your membership number to qualify for this.

APJ7: Do you offer finance for our personal needs like home loans or personal loans?

Chrish: Yes we do and we understand that circumstances may vary, that's why our policy is to get to know you and understand your individual circumstances so we can tailor a solution that best suits you and your family's needs.

Building Construction Loans Line of Credit Loans Low Doc Home Loans Split Home loans Family Equity Loans Honeymoon & Introductory Rates

APJ5: Tell us a little about Capricorn Financial, who you are, how you operate and what services do you provide?

Chrish: You may have not heard of Capricorn Financial, however,

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APJ6: Can you assist in the purchase of the building or shop where my business is operating in?

Chrish: At Capricorn Financial we provide all types of finance, from

APJ4: How can a business benefit from a motor vehicle purchase or leasing and what options do you provide them with?

Chrish: Buying a motor vehicle can be a very costly exercise for your

For individual tax benefits and advice on your personal circumstances, please consult your accountant or financial advisor.

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Some of the loan products that we offer are:

That's why a Capricorn tailored finance package will allow you the necessary cash flow to enable you to pay back the motor vehicle over a set period of time (for example 12-60 months). Allowing you to make monthly instalments, which you can budget for and potentially utilise your surplus cash to expand your business.

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Our finance consultants are specialists who will tailor the right product to meet your business or personal financial needs, by taking into consideration risk, business structure, tax and cash-flow requirements. We offer a tailored solution with flexible options that will match your unique goals.

We also have other finance products available for a plethora of equipment types with different options to suit your individual needs.

Please contact our office for more information.

business (especially if you chose to pay cash). Paying cash not only ties up your money in one asset, but it may not give you the flexibility to purchase other assets and expand the productivity of your business.

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Capricorn Financial has grown into a successful, nationally recognised business. We make our customers our top priority by providing personal, one-on-one service to ensure the best results, and go above-and-beyond to ensure our customers receive outstanding service from our team.

We are experts in our field and welcome your contact so that we can provide you with a service that may allow you to achieve your goals in a timely manner. Testimonials of satisfied clients are available on request.

Chrish Samuel has completed a Bachelors Degree in entrepreneurship at RMIT University in Victoria, a Diploma in Financial Services, as well as a Certificate IV in Financial Services. He is currently continuing his studies in banking and financial services. Chrish has worked for the National Australia Bank for five years in the Business Banking Division managing private clients' portfolios to become senior business banker. He has 12 years’ experience in business and has owned a successful high-end hair salon for two years, giving him a greater understanding of the needs of the beauty industry and the challenges they face. He eventually sold this business to continue other business activities. Currently he is the owner of several financial companies, including Capricorn, which has been in operation for four and a half years. Chrish is committed to his clients in assisting businesses and individuals through his financial services.

Capricorn Financial is a finance company under the Samuel Group of companies and is the re-branded company of Samuel Financial. Capricorn Financial is a strategic alliance partner with APAN for the purpose of servicing salons and suppliers who are members of APAN gain the appropriate finances for the benefit of their businesses and personal endeavors.

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If you would like to contact Chrish Samuel phone: 03 9440 2011 or email him on chrish@samuelcapital.com.au. Please quote your membership number to qualify for special rates. If you would like more information about Capricorn Financial or would like to view client testimonials please feel free visit www.capricornfinancial.com.au

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Effective Stock Turn Management Strategies for business growth and profitability

By Tess Walls In this article I would like to talk about stock turn or managing your stock levels in a retail business and why it plays such a vital role in sustaining long-term business success. To allow us to do this we first need to look at exactly what “stock turn” means.

Stock turn is purely how many times a business moves (sells or uses) the stock on its shelves and replaces it. It is extremely important to the business to get the balance of holding sufficient stock versus, holding too much stock. So why is it so important to get this right?

Managing stock correctly can allow you to make more money as it enables you to have access to your profits that you have made from your retail sales, instead of them being absorbed in stock that is sitting on your selves or in your professional stock areas for too long.

The reason I am writing this article is because I have seen many business owners get it wrong, and some of them unfortunately lost their businesses over it. I would love to share with you a few scenarios that I have seen while visiting salons and spas around Australia and recommend ways to manage stock handling more efficiently and improve your income.

When your stock is handled correctly it can substantially increase your income, and if mishandled it can sabotage your business's profitability and even its success. Here are some of my observations when visiting many businesses and some recommendations for more successful strategies:

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In this situation stock ordering is normally done quickly without a lot of thought. This may be because the owner works as a therapist within their business and does not have time to place orders. They also fail to delegate the task.

I have also seen, on more than one occasion, a business owner that has been given a monthly purchasing budget by her accountant or financial adviser. Once they have spent their budget for the month, even if they need more stock they are not permitted to purchase further stock.

I had one owner that was losing thousands of dollars a month doing this. Having trained her staff in effective sales systems, they performed well and the stock was sold out within 10 days. However, additional stock was not allowed to be ordered for another 20 days.

This astounded me as she was purchasing her product on 30-day credit terms and she was located in the same city as her product supplier, so if she had used her credit terms to order more stock she would have had 20 days to invest her money before paying her account to the product supplier.

Here is a summary of the income loss of such a scenario and effective strategies for turning this around:

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Budget for the product from the product supplier $3,000 Product sold by staff within 10 days for $6,000 Profit made after account is paid $3,000 Product suppliers’ bill not due for another 20 days after stock is sold

Effective Strategy: If the business owner was considerate of the benefit of a timely stock turn rate she could have ordered another two times within the month and made $9,000 profit from her stock instead of $3,000. If she was to repeat this for a whole year she would have made $109,500 in profit instead of $36,499.

As you can see, this is almost as dangerous as over-stocking. I am a firm believer that if you want to retail successfully, you need to create a retail area within your business. You also need to divide this area into “solution sections”, for example, if your range offers solutions for pigmentation you need to have an area on your shelf for this. There must be enough stock of each item on the shelf to suit your ordering frequency.

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2. SHELVES THAT ARE OVERSTOCKED In this situation the business owner has far too much stock. I was speaking to a salon owner recently and she said that she liked to have 10+ of each item on her shelves. When I asked how long it takes to receive stock from her product company she told me within 24 hours of placing her order. Then I asked her what was her most popular treatment and when we looked at the stock on her selves she

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unfortunately realised she was holding extra stock that was sitting on her shelves longer then her 30-day credit terms from her product supplier, which I believe not to be wise. I am a product supplier, but I am the first to suggest that you use your account wisely. You can make a lot of money using someone else's credit terms, but you need to order stock wisely to your advantage.

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I believe this business owner’s decision to hold 10 of each item to be unwise for her business. She would be much better off in this case to order less product in each order and then turn that product over more quickly. Another thing to consider when ordering more frequently is freight costs. Ensure that you have ordered enough stock to receive it free freight.

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3. SHELVES THAT ARE VERY WELL STOCKED WITH THE WRONG PRODUCT Generally this is a case of a business owner that has purchased a business and has been left with unused stock, or has purchased an opening order from a product company that included all product ranges and stock that did not necessarily suit their clientele. One of my recommendations is always understand your market before you purchase product. Don't be fooled into believing that you have to take a lot of ranges if you feel that they will not suit your market or the treatments you offer. You are much better off to offer treatments that suit five skin conditions with matching retail products and then really concentrate on training so your therapists become experts in those five skin conditions, then offer 10 treatments for 10 different skin conditions and retail ranges that you don't know as well. We all know the saying “Jack of all trades and master of none”. I really think this is where some businesses go wrong. This is a common mistake that new business owners make because they think they need to offer everything to appeal to everyone. It's much better to be an expert to a smaller market that you see more often than the opposite.

4. SHELVES STOCKED ADEQUATELY WITH THE CORRECT PRODUCT This is where we all want to be, but it takes a lot of assessing and planning to get it right. There are certain companies that have invested a lot of research into this to enable businesses to get this right. Once you get it right it can make a huge difference to your business's profitability.

In order to ensure you gain the skills to achieve successful retain stock turning, I recommend you speak to your product supplier for advice.

We actually offer stock turn analysis as part of our service with our clients and this helps our business create a balanced stock turn rate.

The target here is to be ordering more frequently, turning your stock over without depleting the stock on your shelves as there should always be enough stock to see you through your restocking wait.

There is a real skill to successful stock turn and I trust this article may help you gain a greater understanding of some successful strategies that can be useful in ensuring you get it right for your business. ㄰ 㤵 㜵

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Tess Walls is a qualified Beauty Therapist, Trainer and Director of ISPA Group and the Australian Distributor of the skincare brand Germaine de Capuccini. She has 20 years' experience in the spa and beauty industry in Australia and has a passion for helping others build their business step-bystep. Tess has also undertaken studies on the psychology of sales and loves importing her knowledge to others. She works extensively within the aesthetic and spa industry teaching therapists how to offer exceptional client services to their clients. Tess is no stranger to success. She has owned her own salon and managed spas in exclusive international resorts, including the Hyatt Regency Spa, Grand Cayman Island, Caribbean and is an acknowledged expert in spa and salon systems. If you believe that Tess can help you grow your business phone 1300 432 100 or mobile 0424 419 876.

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APJ 67

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MEN'S TreatMENts And Skincare the new Emerging Market leader

By Tina Viney

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If you are like most successful and innovative businesses in our industry you no doubt would know the value of constantly evolving your services and products, but also looking at ways that you can capitalise on new and emerging markets. There are several, but for the purpose of this article I want us to take a closer look at what is happening in the male cosmetic market.

In the past three months I have viewed over 10 international reports that have highlighted the emerging men's grooming market with statements such as “lucrative”, “recession-proof” or “the bestperforming category”.

In a presentation delivered at the 2012 Beyond Beauty event in Paris, Euromonitor analyst Nicole Tyrimou highlighted that men's grooming accounts for 8 per cent of the total beauty and personal care market, which in 2011 was worth $33 billion. He further stated that men's toiletries is set to be the best-performing category, with growth anticipated over $3 billion forecast from 2011 to 2016, with 30 per cent of the value growth in the market coming from Brazil and a further 23 per cent to come from the Asia-Pacific region, which includes Australia.

It was also stated from expert market researchers that of the men's grooming items, skincare would account of 66 per cent for sales in this category. They further noted how several companies are capitalising on this trend and are launching further product innovations to capture this market. Procter and Gamble, the formulators of Olay, have already announced that they are extending their male-specific skincare range to meet the growing demand of this market sector, as have Clinique, Biotherm and Lab Series, just some of the brands that are tapping into this trend.

COSMETIC AND SURGICAL PROCEDURES Despite the global financial downturn, more and more Australians, men and women, young and old, are electing to have eyelid surgery, nose surgery, breast augmentation, breast lifts and liposuction. In 2010 Australia spent in excess of $1bn on cosmetic procedures.

Supply is also keeping up with demand according to Dr. Russell Knudsen, President of the Australasian College of Cosmetic Surgery (ACCS), College member practices increased in 2010 from 10% to 20%.

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Australia lags behind other countries in gathering data on plastic surgery and cosmetic procedures. At this time, in fact, national statistics for the industry are only collected sporadically and not broken down as finely as the US data. However, this increase in Australian spending in this industry indicates the importance of youthfulness, or at least the semblance of it, especially to a vital clientele of the cosmetic industry who want to “look as young as they feel” – people over the age of 65.

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When it comes to men the most popular procedures in Australia from our informal research we have concluded as follows:

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Blepharoplasty (eyelid surgery) is the most popular procedure Liposuction for tummy reduction Breast reduction is the third most popular procedure for men Face/neck lift, fat transfer and brow lifts also recorded increases

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While I cannot give you any formal figures of Australian statistics, the UK and the US have both experienced 7 to 19 per cent growth since 2010 in demand for these procedures. What this indicates is that men are starting to pay attention to how they look in growing numbers.

The statistics point to the fact that this is a sector that will continue to grow, and clinics and salons are in a prime position to make formal provision for this market.

I spoke with two companies recently and gained some excellent feedback. Germaine De Cupuccini stated that several of their accounts are very focused in capturing this market and are finding with the provision of treatments they are also moving a great deal of stock quite successfully.

On the other hand, Vogue Image Group, who stock Skeyndor skincare and also have a male-specific treatment range and retail range, told me that several of their plastic surgeons who are providing procedures for their male patients are also retailing very successfully.

WHAT TO CONSIDER So if you are considering introducing or expanding on this market sector what are some recommendations to consider?

Looking at statistics from a ratio perspective we have noted that although the USA, with a much larger population, spent around $10.1bn on surgical and non-surgical procedures, for a fair comparison, this number needs to take into account the population differences between the two countries. If we look at dollars spent per 10,000 people we find Australians are spending almost 40% more per capita than their northern hemisphere counterparts at $454,500 per 10,000 people, compared to $328,000 per ten thousand for the USA. At the time of writing the two currencies were roughly at parity.

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Research what successful salons or clinics are doing: Every good business plan starts with research. Check out websites and view the language they use and the whole marketing approach. Here are some excellent websites you can check for great ideas, marketing approach and language that is tailor-made for the male client: http://mensgroomingsalon.com.au/face-treatments/ http://www.dirtformen.com/ http://mensbodymaintenance.com/ http://mensgroomingsalon.com.au/.

What you will learn from these sites is that they are out to demystify what is available for men and to educate them in the relevance of what they can offer them in terms of their needs. They are very clear about everything, but above all easy to follow and understand.

Talk to suppliers: You can gain a great deal of valuable advice if you talk to product companies that carry male-specific treatments and retail stock. Get their recommendations and their suggestions on how to set up and what marketing strategies work the best.

Design a specific area “just for men”: Put some thought into how you can create the feeling that men are important to you and not just an afterthought. Carefully plan how you are going to present the malespecific display in your retail section so that it looks complete and

comprehensive and not just as a last-minute “suggestion”. Plan the colour scheme for your treatment room using tan and black or black and white. Ensure that the room has a clean, masculine feel to make your client feel comfortable when he walks in.

Get the language right: Men like simplicity, so keep the approach brief but specific, and use language that does not suggest “female”.

Use terminology that is male friendly such as: produces a radiant, healthy male complexion, a powerful punch of peptides, antioxidants, firming collagen and hyaluronic filling agents.

Here is another statement that says it all: The effectiveness of our

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natural treatments, with their unique scientifically proven anti-ageing formulation, provides optimal face-care results. Ensuring your skin looks well rested and in prime condition is paramount to us. Our facial treatments specifically designed for men endeavour to show you how to look young. All facial treatments for men are designed to release tension and relax body and mind, created specially with the peculiarities of male skin in mind.

Your menu: It is advisable that you don't tag the male menu on at the end of the female menu. Create a separate menu that sets them apart.

This is the only way to be taken seriously by male clients.

Products: It is important that the skincare you promote to your male clients is “male specific” as this will ensure that they will more likely consider it. Another key factor that research is suggesting is to choose products that are multi-tasked– moisturise, protect against sun damage and cover imperfections. Body products could include a shower gel that can be used for face, hair and body. While a product that does all these things would be considered too simplistic for women, for men it would have a logical and favourable appeal.

Get a male opinion: If you are developing a male-specific program, or just revamping what you have in place, it is always a good idea to get an objective opinion, especially if you are a female. It is therefore advisable to approach a few males who are critical and articulate, and will not mind hurting your feelings, and ask them to give you a frank assessment as to whether what you have prepared would appeal to them or to other males.

Also ask them if there is any area they are not very keen with and would require that you re-word or revisit. They may be able to offer some recommendations, but suffice to say that even if they can't they can at least tell you what they believe would not appeal to a male.

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Not just the corporate male: Traditionally, the male skincare and grooming market has targeted the corporate guy who is competitive and wants to hold his own among the younger generation who are entering the

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man power in skincare

market, especially if they are more “educated”. However, research is suggesting that the male sector for skincare comprises of younger men in the 28-38 age bracket as well as the 40-60s age group. Furthermore, they are also identifying an interest in outdoor workers who are concerned about sun damage, clogged pores, wrinkles and pigmentation. In actual fact they are far more prone to premature ageing than their counterpart white-collar workers.

As a clinic or salon it is important that your products are differentiated from just department store or pharmacy brands. They should also as much as possible be supported by professional skin treatments and corrective treatments, as in that way recommending the retail products is a natural progression of the whole process of introducing skincare to your client or patient. ㄰

ACCESSING PROFESSIONAL BRANDS FOR MEN 㤵 㜵

To help you identify some key suppliers we approached several companies and spoke to them about the male-specific products and treatments they have to offer. Here are just some of the responses that you man wish to check out:

Germaine de Capuccini ㈵

Germaine de Capuccini offers an exclusive men's range called FOR MEN, which comes in simple black and white packaging. This range is comprehensive and includes shaving cream with calming

ingredients to prevent irritations, ingrown hair and foliculitis. They also offer specialty cleansers to rebalance the skin's pH and a variety of moisturisers designed specifically to replenish male skin, including anti-ageing ingredients with peptides to fight lines and wrinkles. For the eyes, which are often a concern for men, they have Energy Eye roll-on that delivers a soothing serum to the eyes to fight lines and wrinkles, while also allowing for a much needed lymphatic drainage to puffy or tired eyes.

Additionally, Germaine de Capuccini has designed an exclusive men's professional facial that includes a 24-step Shiatsu pressure-point treatment delivered with an amazing serum that includes several energising herbal extracts that are active, but with a male-friendly appeal. This range has been highly popular both with salons and consumers alike. To learn more about these products phone 1300 432 100.

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Jane Iredale Jane Iredale, the mineral makeup expert, has also recognised that men need their own products and has developed several attractively presented male-specific products in the H\E range. The H\E Bronzer for men is a multi-functional compact that offers bronzing, concealing imperfections and has an SPF of 18 for sun protection. It can be applied quickly and easily and the micronised particles give a totally

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APJ 53

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natural look to the skin without the appearance of a “makeup” finish. The H\E range also has a wonderful Facial Brush and an H\E Lip Balm as well as a special H\E Wash Glove to quickly and effectively remove impurities, while gently buffeting and exfoliating the skin. To access these products contact Margi Fox Distributors Ph: 1300 850 008 (see page 68).

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Mila d'Opiz

The renowned Swiss brand Mila d'Opiz believes that men should also practise good skincare. They have also designed products specifically for men as well as two professional facial treatments: ! Business and Relax Facial, and ! Men's Business Facial

The facials include a cleanser, a toner, an energise cream which has been developed for a facial massage, a peeling gel and a special mask. These formulations have been developed to address the three skin care needs of men: Sensitivity, Ageing and Protection against pollution and sun.

Additionally they have a retail range that also includes Energising Cream, Cleansing Foam that can also be used for shaving, and a Shower Gel that has been formulated for the face, hair and body. Mila d'Opiz can be contacted on Ph: 1 300 464 523.

Skeyndor Skeyndor is a prestige professional brand developed in Spain. The company produces quality advanced formulations and also includes a special range of five items for men. Additionally, they offer two facial treatments – one for hydration and one for anti-ageing.

Each treatment comes in a kit that contains all the items needed to complete the treatment. This ensures freshness of the products and it is also economical for the salon as they can purchase as many kits as they wish for their male clients, or if they choose to trial this segment of the market. The Skenydor range offers a deep cleanser, exfoliating gel, anti-stress toning, massage cream, deep moisture concentrate and a powder mask, which is mixed with a topic at the time of the facial.

For retail they have seven products – a daily detox facial wash, a soothing shaving gel, a redness-preventing aftershave balm, a shine control, equal emulsion for hydration, an energising anti-ageing serum, an eyebag recovery cream and a body-shaping gel, which is a slimming gel for the abdomen. The Skeyndor range is supported by clinical trials and for this reason enjoys great popularity also with plastic and cosmetic clinics. They also offer a Shower Gel designed for face, hair and body. In Australia Vogue Image Group is the distributor of Skeyndor and can be contacted on 1800 554 545. ㄰ 㤵 㜵

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ClinicalPro SCHE now known as ClinicalPro offer a comprehensive maleexclusive range called Clinical HE. The range covers a cross-section of male skin concerns with specific formulations to ensure excellent results. Clinical HE offers eight highly innovative products that include an age defence moisturiser with vitamin A for its anti-ageing properties, Glucana soothing cream to firm the skin, a super hydrating sunscreen with SPF 30+, anti-radial scrub, EFG-DNA recovery cream, a zesty foaming cleanser, a 5% Glycolic Polymer crème and an acne deep-pore cleansing cream. The range is packed in convenience

flip and squeeze containers. Clinical HE Skincare can be accessed by contacting ClinicalPro on 1800 628 999.

HEALTH AND WELLNESS It is also interesting to note from the result of recent surveys there seems to be a growing interest in men in some non-traditional areas of development such as supplements and nutricosmetics. A high number of men who were questioned confirmed that among other healthrelated activities they also take supplements at least once a week and confirmed that they believed that a happy life is a healthy one.

While the “beauty from within” market is still in its infancy it is one that we are closely monitoring. This sector is plagued with regulatory concerns and there is currently much debate about setting appropriate guidelines as to what can be stated that these products can do.

However, we anticipate that once these issues have been resolved on an international level we will see a boom in such products in the not too distant future.

Meanwhile, with the information at hand it would appear that the male skincare market is only just starting to come into its own. As with everything, there are risks if not positioned correctly in a clinic or salon, however, we trust that the above article will give you sufficient food for thought to explore its potential in your professional and business environment.

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APJ 54

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Introducing two new APAN MEMBERSHIP CLASSIFICATIONS When it comes to Membership APAN recognises that not everyone is the same. As the aesthetics industry is becoming more specialised it is a fact that different professionals have different needs.

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CORPORATE PLATINUM (Medical) For healthcare practitioners and doctors Medical aesthetics requires a very different mindset to a medical practice. Several doctors and plastic surgeons have joined APAN not only for the member business benefits, but also for industry specific support that is offered in helping their transition into an aesthetic medical practice.

These include, but not limited to, developing a culture, staff recruitment, industrial relations, policies and procedures for the practice of aesthetic modalities, as well as appropriate legal advice when needed.

GOLD (Degree Qualification) Nurses, Dermal Therapists and other This category aims at supporting and providing not only the general benefits of APAN membership, but also the specific needs of this classification of membership through a voice with government during wage award reviews and professional development. APAN also provides professional consultation and specific business recommendations that are unique to the employment and professional development of this sector.

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The Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network (APAN) invites you to join them as a member and gain the support and representation you need to achieve success in your practice and business.

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Contact APAN today for further details or download an Application Form Phone: 07 55930360 | Email: info@apanetwork.com | website www.apanetwork.com

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Run by Beauty Professionals for Beauty Professionals Having experienced the frustration of finding the right staff, two dynamic beauty therapists, Debbie Caruso and Katrina Sheary from Victoria, decided to do something about it and so Beauty Recruiters was established as their brainchild. Debbie has 25 years’ experience in the industry running her own salons and Katrina, 10 years. Together, they decided to look into providing a workable solution that was tailor-made specifically for the beauty industry.

THE BEAUTY RECRUITERS' DIFFERENCE All our candidates are:

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Interviewed face-to-face Personally screened Skills tested in a professional beauty salon environment Reference checked

ABOUT US “One of the most frustrating thing for a salon or spa owner is when a staff member phones in the morning to say that she is sick and cannot come in that day. Appointments have to be rearranged or cancelled and this can be very disruptive, not to mention inconvenient for the client and money lost for the salon,” Debbie said.

It is these and other frustrations that the girls had in mind when they designed the services that Beauty Recruiters would provide.

Having worked with recruitment agencies in the past they found them too expensive and with a lack of understanding of the needs of the beauty industry.

Primarily created to help beauty salons with staff shortages, covering sick days, annual leave or busy times of the year, Beauty Recruiters are considered the specialists in beauty temp staffing solutions. However, they have extended their services to screening also part-time and full-time staff, as well as helping therapists who wish to refine their skills and apply for that perfect job fit.

FOR THE SALON OWNER: We source online qualified, professional staff on a permanent or temporary basis. When you need temporary staff fast we have done the hard work for you. We also provide a service to certify the qualifications of the candidates because we screen the capabilities of our candidates in a professional salon environment. Our motto is “If we wouldn't hire them for our salon, we won't send them to you either.” You will also find that our fees are very reasonable and realistic for our industry.

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Beauty Recruiters attracts the best talent for your business by taking a personal hands-on approach to their recruitment process. With over 35 years’ combined experience they deliver efficient and effective temp staffing solutions for your business. Whatever your staffing needs Beauty Recruiters have the perfect fit for you.

For further details phone Beauty Recruiters on 1300 802 656 or visit our website www.beautyrecruiters.com.au

Run by Beauty Professionals for Beauty Professionals Need beauty staff ASAP? Looking for someone new and efficient?

Can’t find someone mature and experienced?

With Beauty Recruiters you can grow your staff, as you grow your business.

We specialise in beauty temp staffing solutions.

We help business salons with staff shortages, covering sick days, annual leave or busy times of the year.

FOR THE BEAUTY PRACTITIONER:

We interview face-to-face, personality screen, skills test and reference check. Talk to us today and let us help you find your dream staff easier.

We provide you with the tool to be able to find your dream job. We also provide specialised training and refresher training for therapists who wish to upgrade their skills.

Looking for your dream job?

WHAT ARE YOUR SKILLS? Whether you are qualified and experienced in waxing, makeup, microderabrasion, facials, oxygen therapy, massage, body peels or even IPL, we can help you land your dream temp placement or permanent position.

We bring over 35 years’ experience to our services. We are qualified therapists and have experience in running successful salons. We understand and know how to match your skills and personality to your perfect job.

Beauty Recruiters can also refresh your training or up-grade your current skills to help you land your perfect job.

Phone 1300 802 656 today to tell us about yourself and arrange an interview

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APJ 58

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Achieve Incredible skin results with

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Created By Nature Perfected By Science Harnessing the best of nature and perfected by the latest scientific technologies, Mila D'Opiz is the definitive product range for serious skincare professionals who only want the best.

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70 years' experience with proven results Professional Brand reputation International ISO quality assurance 8 Specialty lines because your client is an individual Cutting-edge advanced ingredients the latest peptides, antioxidants, nutriceuticals, plant hormones and stem cells Formulated to perform and presented with excellence Tested and proven for results Treatment-strength products Comprehensive retail range for face and body Excellent marketing support

Let MILA D'OPIZ show you the way to success.

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For further details phone 1300 464 523, Email info@boutiquemonique.com.au www.boutiquemonique.com.au.

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BUSINESS NEWS

Business & Legislation, New Tools and Research Outcomes

Fair Work changes coming, but businesses hesitant over expanding flexible working rights Small business has expressed its hesitation over the Federal Government's planned expansion of flexible workplace laws, saying they could threaten the viability of businesses in certain industries and place undue pressure on struggling SMEs. Prime Minister Julia Gillard stated that she would deliver more information about changes to flexible work legislation, but reports indicate the changes will extend the ability for workers to request flexible work arrangements.

Currently only parents of pre-school aged children, along with those with disabled children under 18 years, can request flexible work arrangements. Labor reportedly wants to increase that right to parents of all school-aged children, or those caring for elderly relatives.

Another change would see mothers who return to work after maternity leave being able to request a move to part-time work. The announcements form part of the Government's second wave of reforms taken from the Fair Work Review, although more detail is expected to come in the next few days.

Peter Strong, chief executive of the Council of Small Business of Australia, says while employers generally have no problem with flexible work arrangements, the Government shouldn't expand those rights too far or too quickly.

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"A business is a cooperative place where everybody knows the business comes first. If we can be flexible, we will be, but...it can become terribly inefficient.”

Gillard also flagged another big change, which would prevent workers from being affected by last-minute changes to rosters.

Russell Zimmerman, executive director of the Australian Retailers Association, says such a change would put more pressure on SMEs. “Casual workers enjoy the amount of flexibility in choosing their schedule. Unions are looking for those casuals to be made into parttimers, and we don't have a problem with that being the case but what we want is flexibility from our perspective,” he says.

“You may have a casual who wants to work an extra hour in the afternoon, and you want to extend that hour. If you're a part-timer you can't do that without a lot of prearranging.”

However, there is some respite for small business – it is expected the changes won't involve a requirement on behalf of the business to agree to the request. Currently, businesses can refuse these requests if they provide reasoning.

The Australian Chamber of Commerce and Industry isn't particularly happy, either, with chief executive Peter Anderson telling The Australian Financial Review the changes would result in more regulation for SMEs.

APAN's position from industry feedback is that many businesses within the beauty and aesthetics sector who have only one or two staff cannot afford the luxury of offering too much flexibility as this can put a lot of pressure on the employer. This policy is best suited to businesses with several staff that can schedule appointments around remaining staff.

"There are serious issues around flexibility in the workplace which must be addressed to stop employers limiting hours because of penalty rates, to make businesses viable and to stem the losses caused by what is, for companies, an extremely inflexible regime," he said.

“There is a difference between a salesperson on the front counter being replaced, and having to replace a therapist who has hour-long bookings for treatments. In these instances it is a lot more complicated,” stated Tina Viney from APAN.

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APJ 60

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DO BONUSES ENHANCE SALES PRODUCTIVITY?

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A Dynamic Structural Analysis of Bonus-Based Compensation Plans

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Personal selling is a primary marketing mix tool for most businesses and in particular personal services such as beauty and aesthetics businesses. Yet there is little research on how the compensation plan motivates a sales team and affects performance.

A study was conducted by Doug J. Chung, Thomas Steenburgh and K. Sudhir of Harvard Business School who developed a dynamic structural model of sales-force response to a compensation plan with various components: salary, commissions, lump-sum bonus for achieving quotas, and different commission rates beyond achieving quotas.

OVERALL, THE ANALYSIS HELPS ASSESS THE IMPACT OF: 1. Different components of compensation; and 2. The differential importance of periodic bonuses on performance on different segments of salespeople.

KEY CONCEPTS THAT WERE MOST EFFECTIVE WERE:

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A target sales bonus scheme to increase performance of the sales team by serving as intermediary goals and pushing employees to meet targets.

Introducing an overachievement compensation reduced the problems associated with staff slacking off when they get close to achieving their goals.

Quarterly bonuses served as a continuous evaluation scheme to keep staff within striking distance of their annual sales goals.

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In the absence of quarterly bonuses, failure in the early periods to accomplish targets causes staff to fall behind more often than in the presence of quarterly bonuses. Thus, a quarterly bonus serves as a valuable sub-goal that helps the salesforce stay on track in achieving their overall goal.

Quarterly bonuses are especially valuable to low performers.

Overachievement commissions increase performance among the highest performers.

Attorney-General are providing a free Preventing Retail Loss and Financial Risk resource to retailers.

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How to guard your business from being a victim of theft

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Retailers should remain vigilant and focus their attention on security as theft is costing the industry more than $7.5 billion. According to the Australian Retailers Association (ARA) executive director, Russell Zimmerman, the financial impact of loss due to theft in Australia each year is estimated at three per cent of retail turnover.

As a result, the ARA together with the NSW Department of Justice and

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“Prevention is the best remedy for combating the financial risk posed by retail theft and this joint industry-government initiative offers the convenience of a h a n d b o o k o ff e r i n g u s e f u l guidance, as well as the self-paced online training for retailers ranging from shop-floor employees through to store managers and owners,” Zimmerman said.

“The 30-minute online training module puts retailers back in control of their stock and will enable them to work to prevent in-store theft, understand the benefits of investing to deter theft and determine how loss impacts on financial performance.

“It's also important for retailers to be cautious when accepting returns and exchanges, as savvy thieves in the US are using fake receipts or returning merchandise that was stolen or purchased with counterfeit money.”

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APJ 61

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Key sectors of concern for unpaid work were trials in the hair and beauty industry, retail and hospitality, while unpaid internships in the media, accounting and legal professions are quite widespread.

Fair Work Ombudsman Nicholas Wilson said he was concerned at the growing prevalence of unpaid work experience in Australia, but said he did not want to stifle genuine learning and development opportunities.

“There are many quite legitimate work-based learning programs and vocational placements which genuinely enhance the learning of participants,” he said in a statement.

“Generally these vocational placements are linked directly to formalised training through universities or other training institutions.”

Instead, Wilson said he would focus on exploitation.

THE FAIR WORK OMBUDSMAN IS GOING TO WORK TOWARDS IMPLEMENTING THE REPORT'S SIX RECOMMENDATIONS, WHICH ARE:

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T h e F a i r Wo r k Ombudsman today announced a new focus on educating employers and employees about the legitimacy of schemes for unpaid work experience, following research by the University of Adelaide Law School.

The FWO commissioned the research, published in the report Experience or Exploitation?, which uncovered a growing number of businesses using unpaid work schemes as an alternative to hiring paid staff. The report also found young people and migrant workers are particularly vulnerable to being exploited through these schemes.

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FWO to crack down on unpaid work experience after research reveals exploitation – What your business needs to do

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To better define unpaid work experience; Expand guidance and education activities; Conduct targeted campaigns in key industries identified in the report; Instigate legal action before relevant courts where appropriate; Improve liaison with relevant government agencies; and Engage with key stakeholders representing employers and employees, vulnerable workers and educational institutions.

The report's co-author, Professor Rosemary Owens of the University of Adelaide, stated that it is very important that small businesses understand what the law is in relation to unpaid work experience, internships and trials.

“The evidence we have encountered suggests it is quite a widespread problem.

“In the US, internships are ubiquitous and the Fair Work Ombudsman has noted quite an increase in complaints to his agency, and certainly our report absolutely supports that,” she says.

Owens says one of the worst examples she came across was one worker who said they did work for more than 12 months unpaid. The broad message is that these unpaid internships are said to act as a gateway to professional employment often. “The very large concern that sits behind our report is that if there is no transparency with these internships, and they are not compliant with the law, there are limited people who can access them; and these people tend to be wealthier as they are the only ones who can afford to work unpaid,” she says.

OWENS OFFERED THE FOLLOWING GUIDANCE FOR BUSINESSES THAT USE UNPAID TRIALS, INTERNSHIPS OR WORK EXPERIENCE: 1. Is there a contract?

Look at whether there is a written or oral contract of employment.

“The broad principles of the law are that if someone has a contract of employment then they are covered by the legislation,” she says.

“If someone is doing work for you and you are not paying them in broad terms, it is unlawful under the legislation if that person is an employee.”

2. Vocational educational placements are exempt Owens says there is a special exemption in the legislation for those who are working on a vocational educational placement.

“But that has quite a strict meaning. It is for those who are doing work as a placement as part of a course or degree they are studying and that course has to be approved by government,” she says.

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3. Check with the Fair Work Ombudsman or your Association If businesses are at all hesitant they should contact either the Fair Work Ombudsman or an industry body such as APAN.

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APJ 62

Franchising code under review

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The Federal Government will review the Franchising Code of Conduct, calling for submissions from the franchising sector.

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Leveraging mobile payments in the business Imagine never needing plastic, or even a wallet again because your smartphone is about to replace them – you have it with you at all time anyway, so why not use it to buy the things you need?

It's the beginning of the 'digital' age where plastic is outdated and smartphones are in. Why pull out a credit card when you can use your smartphone? Mobile payments are an innovative way to engage the experience of customers. It increases sales because it improves the flow of invoicing and remittance.

Mobile apps are bringing a world of possibilities to business owners, whether they like it or not. This means that many businesses will have to adapt to find a place in their business for mobile payments, or get left behind.

Innovations from the Commonwealth Bank have given us a glimpse into the future of mobile payments with customers 'customising' their point of sale experience using CommBank Kaching. These developments are still in their infant stages, but show that although nothing will change about the customer being the centre of your business, the ways you engage them are moving just as fast as technology will allow.

Minister for Small Business Brendan O'Connor said the main purpose of the review is to verify the amendments to the Franchising Code of Conduct made in 2008 and 2010 were working as intended. "The franchising sector is an important part of Australia's economy," O'Connor said. "It comprises around 73 000 franchises, with an annual turnover of more than $130 billion and employs more than 400,000 people."

THE REVIEW WILL CONSIDER ISSUES INCLUDING:

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Questions of good faith in franchising The rights of franchisees at the end of their franchise agreements, including recognition for any contribution they have made to building the franchise The operation of the Competition and the Consumer Act 2010 with respect to enforcing the code.

The Franchise Council of Australia has welcomed this decision. “We support the ongoing review of the regulatory framework. This scheduled review was flagged at the time the 2010 changes to the Code were introduced. In anticipation of the review the FCA has spent considerable time seeking input from its franchisor and franchisee members, and the FCA Legal Committee has conducted its own extensive investigations.”

MOBILE PAYMENTS IN AUSTRALIA There are currently six mobile payment systems in Australia:

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CommBank Kaching EasyPay ICCPay Mobile PayWay PayMate Nudipay (promoted in the Summer issue of APJ Nov. 2012)

PAYING BY SMARTPHONE

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NFC (Near Field Communications) allows you to use your phone to pay for things from coffee to office supplies. It exchanges data wirelessly and all you have to do is put your phone near an NFC reader and poof – you're done.

HOW, YOU ASK? In the near future smartphones will be equipped with NFC, but for now, you can purchase a sticker that attaches to your phone and allows you to purchase from vendors who have receiving devices. Obviously, this has tremendous advantages for businesses who can only accept cash, but all merchants can use this development to their advantage if they think outside the box and are open to new ways of doing business.

How Social Media forgot the law and what this means for you In early August last year the Advertising Standards Board ruled that brands were responsible for all content posted on their social media pages, meaning that business owners can now face the pointy end of the law if they don't remove from their Facebook page things such as unsubstantiated claims from third parties about their products. This is a legal wakeup call that all salons and clinics need to take note.

Recent decisions by the Advertising Standards Board (ASB), consumer watchdog ACCC and the Federal Court are a timely reminder to consider the risks associated with social media activities and the content on your business website.

THE ABS HAS ESTABLISHED A RULING THAT HAS SURPRISED AND SHOCKED MANY BUSINESSES. The ABS stated that a business is also responsible for any comments made by fans and followers on their Facebook communities. In short, no matter how many unruly fans are on your Facebook community page posting about how good your product is, if the claims are not substantiated, you as the business owner of the Facebook page are required to remove them or face the consequences.

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As the implications over the cost and logistics of monitoring Facebook on a daily, possibly hourly basis is not always financially viable for many businesses, the ACCC has followed up with a rough timeframe – big brands should respond within 24 hours, but smaller brands may be allowed more time (although how long, or how “big” the brand needs to be is unclear).

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Monitoring the activity on Facebook now requires that businesses become educated on the regulatory changes or appoint someone to monitor the Facebook page who is an expert with this. APAN recommends Marc Stubbs from Beauty Services Social Media Ph: 0420 311 535 as he is a Social Media specialist for the salon industry.

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Ref: Finder.com.au.

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APJ 63

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Factors that contribute to IPL INCIDENTS

By Gay Wardle IPL and Lasers are rapidly evolving, with new machines being introduced each year. There are various claims made by the manufacturers that are often not substantiated in clinical trials. Hence, variations exist in results and uniform recommendations are not possible in all cases.

mechanical or chemical damage to structures such as hair follicles, while sparing surrounding tissues. Therefore it should be clear that such high-power devices can cause tissue damage in a similar way to medical lasers and should be subject to equivalent standards to those provided for Class 4 medical lasers.

They offer guidelines, outlining the indications and treatments procedure for removal of unwanted hair and skin rejuvenation for both cosmetic and medical reasons. There are various equipment and procedures that can be utilised that cover methodology, associated complications and expected results.

The immediate need for regulation of IPL Australia wide and indeed the rest of the world is imperative for the manufacturer, the operator and the patient/client. This will reduce adverse effects we are continually witnessing and will assure that the machines deliver accurate measurement and the correct distribution of energy.

Unlike medical lasers, IPL devices are largely unregulated and unclassified as to degree of safety hazard. Standards are only imposed on manufacturers for technical performance data and operating tolerances determined.

WAVELENGTH DIFFERENTIATION DEPENDING ON DEVICE

THE ISSUE OF STANDARDS

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Europe has strict safety standards to protect persons from laser radiation in the wavelength range of 180nm to 1mm by indicating safe working level of laser radiation and introducing a system of classification of lasers according to their degree of hazard. Australia has different standards that are required State by State. Tasmania, Western Australia and Queensland are the only States that are regulated. New South Wales, Victoria and the Northern Territory have no regulations in place at all. Tasmania is the only State that is regulated for operation of both Laser and IPL. Standards for the operation of IPL devices are so varied all over the world, leaving manufacturers with no standard procedures in place.

Therefore IPL devices are being used widely with limited accurate knowledge of their performance characteristics. Measurement of certain key parameters could help reduce the risk of under or overtreatment to patients. The statutory definition of an IPL states that an intense light, being broadband non-coherent light, which is filtered to produce a specified range of wavelengths, such filtered radiation being delivered to the body with the aim of causing thermal,

Hair reduction and hair removal are two of the most common cosmetology procedures performed all over the world. The phrase “long-term hair reduction” should be used rather than permanent hair removal as the global experience of laser and light-based technology is hardly two decades old. Various hair-reduction systems can be used for the purpose of long-term hair reduction with different wavelengths, spot sizes and pulse durations for example:

Intense pulsed light system (IPL) Alexandrite laser Diode laser Ruby Laser Nd:YAG

600-1200nm 755nm 810nm 694nm 1064nm

There is no consensus on the most preferred and beneficial laser or IPL device and there will always be new systems introduced proclaiming to deliver results.

Efficacy and safety of each system will vary, with systems having their own advantages and disadvantages. As each system will have a different power output and spot size, they will require different lengths of exposure. All of this is important in the selection of hairremoval procedure according to the Fitzpatrick skin type

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APJ 64

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classification of the patient. Correct patient selection and tailoring of the fluence used to the patient`s skin type remain the most important factors in efficacious and well-tolerated IPL or Laser treatments.

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POOR OPERATOR TRAINING AND SKILL ㈵

I have found that one of the areas where there are high incidents of adverse effects occurs when the operator has not understood the Fitzpatrick skin type and they have not selected the correct fluence or pulse train accordingly. Problems occurring from this will result with burns to patients/clients or simple not delivering results. Both will have the consumer complaining to the clinic or other clinics and even the media as we have seen being broadcast. The timeframe between treatments is of the absolute importance. Patients/clients should be rebooked four weeks between treatments, any sooner and you could be treating hair that has not eradicated from the follicle, or if it is longer then you could have missed the anagen phase.

When I have operators tell me they are not getting results for hair removal, it is often because they have allowed the patient/client to dictate the timeframe between treatments, and instead of four weeks are treating them every eight weeks. It is important that to achieve results patients/clients must have treatments every four weeks in those initial first few treatments.

All operators should have knowledge of the skin, hair and subcutaneous tissue, including structural and functional differences and variation in skin anatomy in general. There should be a basic knowledge and training of laser physics and how lasers and IPL systems work. This is important for a successful outcome of treatments to ensure the patient/client has results. Hands-on training is mandatory prior to operators using the devices. Certificates and diplomas stating qualifications should be displayed for consumers to see, and consumers should ask to see these qualifications before agreeing to any procedure. All operators should attend continued training annually.

THE NEED FOR ON-GOING TRAINING

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There are very few suppliers that offer on-going training to their clients. What tends to happen is that owners of clinics either train or have trained staff educating new staff members on how to operate the machines. This is one of the biggest pitfalls in the industry and you can be assured that there will be adverse effects occurring in those workplaces. Operators that have not had continued training and train new staff members might have forgotten correct methods or might not have the ability to deliver a thorough training. I have found this type of training more the norm than not in this industry, and it is one of the major reasons for burns or for patients/clients not attaining results from their treatment. If an owner expects a staff member to perform IPL/laser treatments then they should invest and have them trained correctly.

Another weak area I have seen is in the consultation. Only someone who knows and understands how the machines work and knows and

understands anatomy of the skin will deliver a concise and informative consultation. Apart from obtaining a detailed history of the patient/client, there needs to include a history of any photosensitising drugs, keloid and hypertrophic scars, history of recent sun exposure and tanning.

Female patients must be evaluated to rule out the underlying cause for hirsutism, and if necessary a gynecologist’s or endocrinologist’s opinion should be sought. I have found that operators who have not been professionally trained are lacking in this area and are leaving themselves wide open to adverse effects being caused through their own neglect of understanding and initiating a comprehensive consultation.

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I am absolutely amazed that there are operators who do not perform a patch test on their patient/client before initialising treatments. All areas that you intend to treat should be put to a test patch. This will help to eliminate any problems that might occur. This is a preliminary service that is performed after the consultation and should incur a charge, it should never be given away free of charge. Giving this service away free under-values what you do and could have your patient/client seeing you as not having good qualifications to operate the machine.

One last thing I would like to add is that you should ensure that your machine is serviced once a year, if not twice. If you cut costs by not having your equipment serviced you run the risk of harming someone.

In conclusion, laser/IPL long-term hair reduction is the most commonly performed cosmetic procedure all over the world.

Excellent results are achieved when the treatment is performed by a qualified and fully trained operator.

Careful patient selection, intensive evaluation of individual cases, pre and post-operative care are essential in achieving satisfactory results.

Patch test to avoid adverse e ff e c t s , e n s u r e t r e a t m e n t intervals are with in the correct times, know laser physics and anatomy of the skin, and above all attain a qualification to operate the devices. Continue your education and involve yourself with on-going training a n n u a l l y. S e r v i c e y o u r equipment regularly.

Unfortunately bad news travels faster than good news, which leaves qualified operators justifying their own procedures when they should not have to. But they do have to and it is because of badly trained operators. ㄰

REFERENCES Rajesh M. Buddhadev Standard guidelines of care: Laser and IPL hair reduction Town G, Caerwyn A., Eadie E. & Moseley Journal of Cosmetic and Laser Therapy

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APJ 65

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How Jojoba Oil Benefits the Skin Jojoba oil (Simmondsia chinensis) is a botanical extract and although it is called an oil, chemists in the 1930s discovered that it is actually a 98% pure array of liquid wax ester. This is important because wax ester is incredibly close to the natural oils, or sebum, produced by the human body for our skin and, other than being found naturally in the body, had only ever previously been found in sperm-whale oil. As jojoba is a plant that can easily be grown, it can be readily available for topical skin use.

Today, jojoba oil is most commonly used for cosmetic purposes, particularly for the maintenance of healthy skin. It helps promote healing of the skin in many ways as it has antimicrobial properties, which discourage the growth of bacterial and fungal microbes that may attack the skin.

from our skin cells. As jojoba produces wax esters similar to those in our skin, application thus provides the same nurturing and moisturising properties as our own sebum.

Because skin recognises jojoba as its own, it allows the active ingredients to be delivered deeper into the skin and some tests have stated that it can reduce wrinkles by up to 26%. Jojoba is also effective at treating other skin ailments.

If applied to stretch marks and other scars, it can reduce the redness or associated itchiness and, over time, may reduce the appearance of the scarring. It can soothe sunburnt skin.

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Adding avocado oil to jojoba oil makes an excellent carrier oil that will give the skin extra nourishment.

Avocado has an excellent fatty acid profile that it is very high in oleic acid. A typical avocado oil has 76% monounsaturates (oleic and palmitoleic acids), 12% polyunsaturates (linoleic and linolenic acids) and 12% saturates (palmitic and stearic acids). The main antioxidant in the oil is a-tocopherol, which is present at levels of 70-190 mg/kg oil. Other non-lipid components present in the oil include mineral-rich chlorophylls (11-19 mg/kg oil) and carotenoids (1.0-3.5 mg/kg oil).

Carotenoids in avocado have long attracted attention for their potential anti-carcinogenic effect. Essential oils that can be added for this skin type are patchouli, rose, sandalwood and geranium.

Lip balm: If you are looking for an effective lip balm jojoba oil is an

JOJOBA OIL RESEMBLES THE SKIN'S NATURAL SEBUM Jojoba's chemical composition closely resembles that of the skin's natural sebum. It is easily absorbed without causing any allergic reactions, even in those with sensitive or acne-prone skin. The body's natural sebum also contains wax esters, which act as a natural moisturiser and barrier for the skin. Wax ester production steadily decreases with age, causing the skin to appear dull and wrinkled.

Reduced ester content in the skin can also lead to the development of conditions such as psoriasis, dandruff and rosacea.

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excellent choice for conditioning dry or flaky skin. It is also excellent as a lipstick and makeup remover.

OTHER USES OF JOJOBA OIL FOR THE BODY: For an all-over skin-rejuvenation treatment jojoba oil can be added to almond and a little avocado for a full body massage treatment or included as part of a body wrap. Essential oils to use are lavender for relaxation, melissa for rejuvenation and chamomile and geranium for very dry scaly skin or dermatitis. For cellulite, use fennel, juniper, rosemary and lavender.

USES FOR JOJOBA OIL FOR THE FACE

HAIR REJUVENATION: Jojoba oil adds life to dull and lifeless hair,

OILY PROBLEMATIC SKIN: Because of its non-comedogenic and

bringing back the bounce and shine – put a few drops on the palms of your hands, rub together and apply to the hair. Jojoba oil can also be very effective at treating dandruff – just massage it on to the scalp.

Essential oils that can be added for hair loss and hair revitalising are peppermint and rosemary.

antimicrobial properties jojoba oil is beneficial for oily and problematic skin conditions. It can be combined with a small quantity of very light oil, such as hazelnut, to create an effective carrier oil.

Hazelnut oil is a great emollient, due to the high Vitamin E content and is absorbed quickly by the skin, offering softening and flexibility to congested skin. It also contains 110 to 140 mg phytosterols per 100 grams of oil and also quite a few minerals like potassium, calcium and magnesium. Essential oils that can be added are chamomile, juniper, rosemary and peppermint.

In summary, jojoba oil is a bioidentical ingredient for the skin. For this reason its compatibility to the skin will be unrivalled. Look for it in formulations and, wherever possible, use it as an ingredient to enhance your treatment results.

DRY, DEHYDRATED AND MATURE SKIN: Skin health is maintained

REFERENCES

by sebum, with 25-30 per cent of the skin's sebum made up of wax esters that work to hold moisture to the skin. The older we get the production of wax esters starts to decline, allowing moisture to escape

http://www.lexiskincare.com http://www.livestrong.com/article/140756-skin-benefits-jojoba-oil/ http://naturalskincareroutine.com

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APJ 66

Advance your knowledge and education to a higher level. MDA is now offering Post-Graduate courses to empower you for greater treatment results and business growth.

With the advances in new equipment and skincare technology, heightened awareness by consumers and the collaboration between professional aesthetics and medical and anti-ageing practices there is now the need for education and specialised Post-Graduate training to support and deliver higher levels of expertise and advanced results.

Gay Wardle has launched a new training MASTERCLASS PROGRAM in 2011 to equip and empower you to make the transition with greater confidence into the realm of advanced treatment protocols for greater treatment outcomes.

Gay Wardle is without question today's leading and most influential educator in Australia. Winner of over 12 industry and business awards, she has a strong understanding of the aesthetics industry and the elements that are necessary for a successful salon or aesthetic practice.

Constantly investing in her own education and knowledge, she is not only passionate about training but simultaneously is undertaking a Bachelor's qualification with Victoria University.

MASTERCLASSES IN DERMAL TRAINING INCLUDE: ! One-day Insight into Skin Evaluation ! Two-day Insight into Skin Evaluation ! Three-day Journey to Understand and Empower your ! ! !

Knowledge in Advanced Skin Evaluation Skin Preparation Programs to Optimise Results from IPL, Needling and Microdermabrasion Treatments to Target Pigmentation Understanding Ageing in the Skin and Treatments for Ageing Skin

ENROL TODAY Training Available in most States. For further details and to book Visit www.masterdermalacademy.com.au email:gay@da.com.au or info@masterdermalacademy.com.au Ph: 0418 708 455 formerly Advanced Aesthetics

Masters Dermal Academy

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JUST FOR MEN H\E® products are a range of exclusively men's products that will leave the skin protected, comfortable, and looking great.

The Look: well-rested | The Feel: weightless Today's man wants to look and feel good! They're confident, sophisticated, energetic and ready to enjoy life. H\E® by jane iredale is a mineral line for men. Made with pure minerals containing antioxidants and vitamins, the minerals provide long-lasting dry and chemical-free sunscreen protection (SPF 18) to nourish and enhance the skin. Available in a compact travel/gym kit or sold individually, these items are a must-have for your male clientele.

H/E® POWDER/BRONZER FOR MEN Bronzer, camouflage and SPF in one:

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Mineral sunscreen for men – SPF 18 Gives a handsome, healthy glow to the skin Discrete coverage for blotchiness, redness and rosacea Gentle on sensitive skin Washes off easily without soap 5 shades to choose from to suit all skin tones

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Specifically designed to apply H\E Dry Sunscreen Sculpted for a man’s hand Soft bristles deliver complete coverage

H/E® Lip Balm SPF 15

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No chemical sunscreens – just zinc oxide *Use the The perfect partner to H\E® ® Dry Sunscreen H/E Wash Glove Moisturises lips on contact to remove every Soothes and protects in one trace with water step

H/E® Wash Glove Removes H\E(R) Bronzer for Men without a trace:

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only, no soap needed! ®

*Use the H/E brush Simple design to pick up the Bronzer Blue denim cloth Works hard so &apply to entire face, you don't have including neck and ears. to Reapply after lengthy Just add water – no soap needed sun exposure M a c h i n e or excessive washable perspiration.

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The brush for H/E® Dry Sunscreen:

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Relieves and protects dry, chapped lips with a zesty lemon aroma:

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Optimal SPF 15 protection

Contact Margifox Distributors at www.margifox.com.au or call 1300 850 008 for details on how to become a jane iredale stockist, or visit www.janeiredale.com.au for more product information.

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jane iredale products are certified cruelty-free by PETA. To find out more about what this means, please visit www.peta.org (we are listed under our corporate name, Iredale Mineral Cosmetics, Ltd.).

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AUSTRALIAN AESTHETICS CONFERENCES 2013

WHAT OTHERS SAY ABOUT APAN'S SEMINARS: TESTIMONIAL:

Hosted by the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network

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In a constantly changing world standards and not discounting have been identified as the new marketing tool that will contribute to business growth in 2013. The Australian Aesthetics Conferences are the most credible and dynamic platform to gain insight about changes ahead and learn what tools will work for you in 2013 and beyond. Delivering high quality generic education it is Australia's leading Professional Development Program independent of any commercial influences.

2013 will see 3 events in 3 different States:

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Adelaide, Sunday 26 May

NSW Sydney, Monday 26th August

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Niche and dynamic these events bring a new level of life to the regions through a carefully planned high-quality educational Gold Coast, Sunday 27 October program that is also supported by a boutique style exhibition.

“I attended my first APAN Expo in Sydney this year and was thrilled to find the day packed with absorbing and actionable content specifically relevant to business owners. There were myriad topics, covered by experienced and qualified experts, ranging from social media and new radio frequency technologies to interpreting the Fair Work Act and the necessity of indemnifying your business with adequate industry-specific insurance cover.

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DISCOVER global trends, industry

Salon and spa owners Practitioners and therapists IPL/Laser therapists Dermal therapists Aesthetic nurses Practice managers Educators and trainers Industry professionals

projections and financial forecasts

LEARN staff development skills and successful client loyalty and business building strategies, social media, industrial relations and wages

EXPLORE new technologies – IPL/Laser updates, anti-ageing protocols and scientific research findings on ingredients

ACHIEVE a new level of understanding and gain new knowledge on advanced business and skills development options

INTERACT with industry authorities, educators and likeminded professionals ADD status and cudos to your professional development through an industry peak body Certified Program GROW in knowledge and confidence GAIN the competitive advantage in the

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“I've been in the industry for over nine years and every year I have been dedicated to furthering my industry knowledge; I have done this by being a regular attendee at seminars and expos all over the country, so you can imagine I'm familiar with the somewhat repetitious content (albeit wrapped in shiny new packaging)... And there is value in having important information drummed into you… BUT these are challenging times and the paradigms have changed forever. Understanding future trends, shifting one's thinking and developing focused action plans are now the new business mission, so imagine my excitement when it instantly became apparent that this APAN Expo had been organised to deliver just that!

“I have found Tina to be an exceptionally committed entrepreneur - dedicated to supporting higher standards within the industry and someone who loves nothing more than to help and support her members. If Tina doesn't have the answers, she'll call on other experts whom she believes has. Being a member of APAN is an important pillar to the success of running my business.

“I found this Expo to be superior to others and exceptionally good value for money. I will definitely commit to attending more wherever they may be.”

Lesley Morgan-Wesson (Owner), LADY AT BAY, Neutral Bay, NSW

AUSTRALIAN AESTHETICS CONFERENCES

FEES: APAN Members $149 | Non-Members $169 | Book all three and receive 20% Discount Book these dates in your diary and make this event a priority in 2013 Phone: 07 55930360 | Email: info@apanetwork.com | www.apanetwork.com

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starperformer SKEYNDOR BODYSCULPT The treatment everyone is talking about What exactly is the SKEYNDOR BODYSCULPT? It is the latest body treatment from SKEYNDOR that uses the best fat-burning ingredients and the latest in stem-cell technology to not only reduce the appearance of stubborn fatty/cellulite-prone areas, but also to prevent them coming back.

Many strict diets and quick fix beauty treatment can lead to a rebound in weight-gain, with the client sometimes regaining more fat than she initially lost.

This can be due to the fact that many preadipose cells have been stimulated and matured so they can store fat. The BODYSCULPT prevents this by using the innovative Japanese Parsley, an ingredient that inhibits fat stem cell receptors so they do not receive the message to mature and therefore do not store fat.

WHO CAN BENEFIT FROM SKEYNDOR BODYSCULPT? Anyone with stubborn fatty/cellulite-prone areas, who also finds that they are getting larger and regaining their fat after returning to a normal diet from a previously strict calorie-controlled diet. Other conditions that benefit from Skeyndor Bodysculpt are fluid retention, flaccidity or lack of body firmness.

WHAT MODALITIES AND TECHNOLOGIES DOES IT USE? The BODYSCULPT can be used as a stand alone manual treatment (hands-on) or it can also incorporate skincare products that can be delivered with Galvanic or SK Meso-Science equipment to infuse the active ingredients deeper into the skin to target fat cells.

WHAT ACTIVE INGREDIENTS ARE INCORPORATED IN THIS TREATMENT? Research has confirmed the action of certain plant extracts on fat cells.

These include: ! Brazilian Pepper – which is shown to prevents triglycerides clumping together into a larger molecule for the fat-burning process to take place. It increases the surface area of the fat in the fat cells, therefore making lipolysis (fat burning) easier. ! Raspberry extract – has also been shown to burn fat, inhibits uptake of fat to fat cell and inhibits the maturing of fat cells (adipogenesis), therefore inhibits the increase of number of fat cells. ! Japanese Parsley – has been proven to inhibit fat stem-cell receptors so they do not receive the message to mature and therefore store fat.

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Other herbs that support detoxification and circulation include Dandelion with its liver-cleansing properties and its positive effect in combating fluid retention. Studies also confirm that Goldenrod, Lemon and Butcher's Broom help strengthen the capillaries network and permeability,

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To further support positive treatment outcomes Skeyndor has incorporated these ingredients into their Body Sculpt product range.

HOW MANY TREATMENTS ARE RECOMMENDED FOR BEST RESULTS? To achieve long-lasting and cumulative results a minimum of 10 treatments is recommended, starting with two sessions per week.

WHAT RESULTS CAN BE EXPECTED AND WITHIN WHAT TIME FRAME? Your clients can expect to see a substantial reduction in the appearance of cellulite, improvement in circulation, skin texture and firmness in three to four weeks. They can also expect to feel immediately slimmer and less puffy.

The SKEYNDOR BODYSCULPT program encompasses multiple modalities of avant-garde technology, individually tailored body wraps and carefully formulated and landmark products to immediately target and address cellulite concerns and associated conditions, in a way never before possible.

These treatments offer a new generation in body treatments for effective and amazing body sculpturing as well as supporting your professional reputation and business profitability.

For more information on Skeyndor BODYSCULPT and the latest aesthetic equipment and product technologies contact Vogue Image Group 1800 55 45 45. ㄰ 㤵 㜵

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AESTHETIC EXCELLENCE PROGRAM (AEP) Business and Professional Study Units

DESIGNED FOR THE BUSY PROFESSIONALS You can select the unit of your choice and study it at your convenience.

You can use it as background information and if you complete the exam at the end and submit it for marking you can qualify for a Certificate of Completion from APAN.

Education is the bedrock of social and economic development, and true professionals know the value of investing in life-long learning. Indeed, education broadens our horizon and allows us to see beyond what was once impossible. It is the most powerful weapon that can change our world.

With on-going new scientific discoveries knowledge is doubling at a rapid pace. We now have some amazing information on how we can slow the ageing process that we did not know two or three years ago.

While you are busy practising your profession are you finding that some of your information is becoming outdated, leaving you without the right answers? Would you like to bring your knowledge up to date through on-line professional development units?

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Education comes in many forms, and while your supplier can offer you valuable knowledge, it is also important that you continue your professional development through commercially unbiased generic education. This is the mark of a true professional, and without a serious commitment to updating your knowledge, others who do may soon bypass you.

While formal education and advancing your qualifications is the ultimate it is not always possible. This is why we are delighted to announce the launch of the AESTHETIC EXCELLENCE PROGRAM – a collection of business and professional development study units that professionals can enrol to complete and grow their skills and knowledge.

Our aim is to develop a Study Portal where therapists and business owners can go to access valuable information and improve their skills and currency of knowledge to support their career and business goals.

While these units will not give you formal qualifications as such, they will substantially increase your confidence and empower you with accurate information that will position you in a better place to move forward with greater confidence.

As of April these units will be launched on the APAN website so that you can access them at your convenience and undertake them at your own pace. While we will start with a few units, new ones will be added on a regular basis as our intention is to establish a comprehensive collection of subjects to meet your professional development needs. These units will be written by experts and will cover numerous topics, including skincare ingredients, anti-ageing principles, equipment technology, skin science, human biology, business and personal development, just to name a few. These units will offer you credible and powerful information to grow your knowledge and confidence so that you can pursue your direction with greater ease and success.

Ultimately the Aesthetic Excellence Program will be submitted to APAN's National Advisory Council for assessment as Continuing Educational Points and further on recognition of prior learning towards formal qualifications.

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Please visit www.apanetwork.com for further detalsils.

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Zenyu Skin and Body A haven of tranquillity and rejuvenation

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Everything about Zenyu Skin and Body is meticulously planned to deliver treatments renowned for their high standards in an atmosphere of absolute tranquillity. When you enter the salon you are immediately greeted by an atmosphere of serenity that is almost tangible. From the numerous design touches to the pleasant aromas, tranquil music and soothing sensation you are transported to a carefree world where relaxation is an art form.

The Zenyu experience will not only leave you perfectly groomed, but also totally relaxed at a very deep level.

Situated in Mornington in Victoria, Zenyu Skin and Body is owned and managed by Rebecca Selby. A passionately dedicated therapist Rebecca offers a magical blend of exquisite skills delivered from a caring and

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compassionate heart that truly cares for her clients and brings a new meaning to the term beauty therapy. This is indeed the hallmark of all her services.

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Wishing to capture the essence of this special woman we were delighted that she accepted to be interviewed by APJ.

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APJ 1: Rebecca, tell us when and how you got started in beauty therapy and what made you pursue it as a career?

Rebecca: I really entered the beauty industry by default. I wanted to study to become a nurse, but as I missed out on the first intake I decided that in the meantime, I would try my hand to something different and so I enrolled at a beauty therapy college to just do Certificate III. However, I soon realised that this was not enough and so continued and graduated with a Diploma in Beauty Therapy. I then went on and also completed a Personal Care Assistant's Course, but it quickly became apparent to me that indeed Beauty Therapy was my calling.

As a single mum trying to raise two children on my own it was important that I was able to generate sufficient income for my family, so I decided to go into business for myself and hired a room in a gym to do face and body treatments.

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I got excellent feedback from many happy clients and in a very short time I grew a substantial client base. Several of my clients felt that I deserved to operate something more comprehensive than within the limitations of a room in the gym.

Following my decision to branch out to new premises I saw an opportunity to invest in a salon, which I pursued, and so Zenyu Skin and Body was conceived, which now has grown into a successful business. This has been an amazing journey and I truly believe that the secret to my success is that I absolutely love what I do, and I am passionately committed to constantly growing my knowledge and skills.

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APJ 2: What is your philosophy and the culture of your salon and what services do you provide?

Rebecca: I haven't had an easy life and through my journey I have learnt the value of nurture and compassion. The skills I have learnt through my studies, as well as my life experiences, have enabled me to design and deliver my services in an environment that can nurture and support the individual on many levels, not just their skin, but also mentally and emotionally. Prioritising the total wellbeing of our clients is central to our philosophy and culture. As soon as you walk in our doors you experience a peaceful spa feeling where you can relax, knowing that you will be well taken care of both as a client and as a valued individual.

We provide a cross-section of services from various facial treatments, body massage, waxing, tinting, spray tanning, cosmetic tattooing and skin needling, but our signature treatments would have to be eyebrow threading and design, as well as hair removal through sugaring.

APJ 3: As you have stated, your two unique services are sugaring hair removal and eyebrow threading. Can you tell us a little about them and how they contribute to your competitive advantage?

Rebecca: As eyebrow design is one of my passionate specialties I achieve this through the skillful technique of eyebrow threading, combined with several other techniques including cosmetic tattooing, if necessary. I use my thread and my tweezers like a paintbrush as they help me to design eyebrows that can truly transform the face.

Eyebrows can be so beautiful when designed correctly. While I was

formally trained in eyebrow threading I can honestly say that it is not an easy skill. It does require passion and a lot of practice to perfect it, but when you become skilled in this amazing technique, you can get great results in a short time. The beauty of eyebrow threading is that it can help you achieve precision work. At the end of the day you are in control of the design, so you still need an eye for detail and you also need to correctly measure and balance the shape you want to achieve.

With sugaring for hair removal, I heard about it in the US and contacted a company there, and they put me in touch with their suppliers in Australia, so I trained with them in Sydney. Sugaring is becoming more and more popular because there is no heat involved and you dispose of everything when you finish. There is no possibility of recycling. As it is a totally natural product it is often better tolerated

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than other waxing products. Again, however, it is a technique and an art form and requires a lot of practice to become proficient at it, so it also relies on operator skill and dedication, as well as strength, if you are doing the traditional method.

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We are getting more and more enquires about eyebrow threading as well as sugaring, and as we specialise in both these procedures they are our niche treatments that give us the competitive advantage.

APJ 4: What aspect of your work do you love best that gives you the most satisfaction?

Rebecca: I have to say I am very much a hands-on person and I love the one-onone encounter with my clients where I not only offer them my very best in terms of my services, but also educate them on what is best for them, both for treatment benefits as well as appropriate products for their needs. It is important that what we recommend is supported by research and credible information as clients today want to know the facts about what they are investing in, and so I love the process of educating them so that they can make informed choices.

We have a wonderful choice of professional skincare – Environ, Aspects, Jane Iredale and ASAP as well as the Alexandra range and a few specialty minor ranges. I love giving facials, but my special niche is eyebrow design and sugaring. There is nothing like the joy of transforming a face through well shaped and beautifully designed eyebrows. Sugaring as a hair-removal option is also very much my passion.

APJ 5: How have you managed to maintain your business momentum during the more challenging financial times and what changes did you have to make?

Rebecca: I think that building a

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reputation of excellence is something that never dates or is o u t p e r f o r m e d , h o w e v e r, excellence can only be achieved through on-going skills development and learning and through a love and driving passion for what you do. There is an investment that is needed before a reputation can be established. One area that I realise, however, that I need further development is in growing my business skills so that I can develope and establish the right framework for business growth. The type of staff I engage will also be critical in helping me achieve any future growth.

APJ 6: What are your future goals and where do you want to go from here?

Rebecca: My passion is to continue to grow my knowledge on skin and provide more advanced results with my skin treatments. I believe this is the future. Clients now want results and effective treatment plans can provide the answer, but to achieve this salons need to implement advanced procedures and also select the appropriate technology that will allow them to constantly improve on what they are currently delivering.

This is why education is an on-going necessary pursuit.

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APJ 7: How have you found your APAN membership beneficial?

Rebecca: While I was thrilled to join as a member of an Association such as APAN I didn't realise how important an issue it was until I encountered some challenges. It was so reassuring that I had caring and knowledgeable experts who could assist me on both professional and legal levels in so many ways.

APAN also helped me with drafting letters and giving me the objective, unemotional perspective to assist me to stay focused and professional in the midst of conflict and address concerns with dignity.

Their wisdom in advice and support were invaluable. I can also honestly say that their support went above and beyond what they were obligated to give me. It was comprehensive, generous and caring. I don't know what I would have done without them.

Zenyu Skin and Body is located at 8/234 Main Street Mornington, 3931 Ph: 03 5975 0099 | www.zenyu.com.au

“I think that building a reputation of excellence is something that never dates or is outperformed, however, excellence can only be achieved through on-going skills development and learning and through a love and driving passion for what you do.”

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White Truffle With L-Ergothioneine – the revolutionary amino acid for proven antioxidant protection and superior hydration Truffles, which are renowned as the epitome of luxurious food, now reflect the same quality as the epitome of luxury in skincare. Truffles originate from the Mediterranean and for centuries highly valued as a wonderful and lavish fungus that is loaded with amazing nutrients that are equally fantastic for the body as well as the skin.

Five years in the making by the crème-de-la-cream team of skincare specialists continuously pioneering the field of dermal-science in Switzerland, Mila d'Opiz has successfully harnessed the amazing nutrients of the white truffle (Tuber Aestivum) to create White Truffle Mask.

Utilising the very latest in peptide technology along with a fusion of natural actives, this lusciously textured and highly active product will satisfy your expectation for seriously impressive and unsurpassed skin refinement and hydration with long-lasting results.

Skin Truffle mimics the endorphin reaction that naturally occurs when you feel good. When using this product the skin will without a doubt positively glow with a vibrancy that is characteristic of optimal hydration and skin that is plumped to its optimum capacity.

Combining a wealth of indulgent ingredients, amino acid and antioxidants, truffles are a very high source of protein, which is why they are often described as “vegetable meat”. White and black truffles have the same chemical content and are made up of 73% water, with the remaining weight comprising several types of minerals and nutritive substances such as calcium, potassium and magnesium, iron and linoleic acid. Truffle carbohydrate (polysaccharide) properties are composed of glycogen and chitin, also called the fungus cellulose found in the cell walls.

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Of the amino acids found in White Truffle L-Ergothioneine is a natural and water-soluble compound first discovered in 1909. Research confirms that L-Ergothioneine counterbalances the effect of key mediators involved in skin ageing, in particular in skin photo-damage.

Included in the list of potential benefits from white truffle is its profound uniqueness to conserve and maintain the levels of other antioxidants such as Vitamin E, C and glutathione. White Truffle also assists with an increase in cell respiration, protects the mitochondria from damage, reduces the damaging effects of environmental ultraviolet radiation, neutralises increased oxidative stress and protects against the effects of neurotoxins.

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Truffle extract is an excellent source of Superoxide Dismutase – one of the most powerful cellular antioxidants. SOD is naturally occurring in the body, but it declines in our biology dramatically with age. SOD enzymes provide exceptional cellular protection against free radicals, while offering anti-inflammatory properties, and ultimately slow down the ageing process.

Of the vitamins found in White Truffle is a host of Vitamin B complex stands that support oxygenation to the skin, improving blood circulation and toxin removal. Included are thiamine (vitamin B1), niacin (vitamin B3) and cyanocobalamin (B12) that assist in cell formation and cell life span, while giving the skin a healthy glow and promoting healthy skin-cell regeneration. Additionally, pantothenic acid (vitamin B5) is a wonderful hydrator that reduces the effects of stress and yields a smooth and lustrous skin.

Ancients understood the benefits of the white truffle as the elite of the truffle world. In early Eastern civilisations, the white truffle was not only a valued food, but also revered for its strong medicinal properties. White truffle is revered as one of the planet's richest sources of vitamin B that is also known as the great “beautifier”. The women of the Imperial Chinese court used white truffles in skin treatments to moisturise, nourish and reduce pigmentation, while optimising beautiful skin.

THE ROLLS-ROYCE OF MASKS

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White Truffle Mask by Mila D'Opiz is a newgeneration, highly nutritive formulation that contains amazing actives and anti-ageing properties including: ! Caviar – hydration and anti-ageing benefits ! Argan Oil – in its purest form, highly moisturising and rich in vitamin E ! Meadowfoam seed oil – powerful antioxidant that prevents congested pores and is rich in vitamin C Jojoba seed oil – moisturising and comedogenic Vitamin B – accelerates regeneration, calming and moisturising Allantoin – soothing and cell regenerating Tocopherol – antioxidant and promotes new cell formation

White Truffle Mask will bring a new level of result to your skin treatments and is available for professional use in generous 240ml.

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Distributed by Boutique Monique. Phone 1300 464 523 for this and other Mila D'Opiz advanced skincare

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Why DISCOUNTING is not the answer for Cosmetic Tattooing Val Glover-Hovan | Specialist/Trainer Cosmetic Tattoo Australia

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I never say no to writing an article when it is for the good of the Beauty and Cosmetic Tattoo Industry and benefitting practitioners who take this profession seriously. Communications between APAN and members are crucial to ensure relationships keep bonded, and providing all the members with many benefits and supporting their continued growth and professional development.

Clicking on my Facebook recently I saw an ad suddenly appear from one of my USA Facebook friends offering “cheap, cheap” prices for her Permanent Makeup Treatments and so this ad gave me the inspiration to write this article.

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I must admit I was very disappointed that someone can devalue themselves and their art and advertise it on social media for the world to see.

As I see it, cheap prices give the impression that their business is bad, which could be a reflection of their work, their attitude, facility or lacking current knowledge and updated skills. This is where I believe continued membership to a professional organisation and subscribing to professional magazines is necessary, as if reminds us of how the industry is evolving and growing and what we need to know to keep pace with progress. New development requires that we constantly invest in further education, as getting your initial qualification is only the beginning. After all these years in the industry I am constantly investing in staying up-to-date in my skills and knowledge, and that stems from a commitment to excellence as well as a financial investment.

When you invest to be the very best for your clients you can't afford the “cheap, cheap” approach, because without the necessary fees how

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can you afford to continue to invest in your knowledge. It is all part of ethics and the professional approach.

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We need to realise that there is a difference between getting rid of stock through a quick sale and discounting our services as if they are a disposable product.

This discounting sadly is happening all over the world. In Australia, a great example is the Discount Groupon, Cudo sites and the like. Many salons have fallen for this new marketing strategy because they believed that having more customers coming into their business would automatically mean extra profit. I have spoken to many about this and asked them why they did it.The response is often that it seemed the thing to do at the time as others were doing it and so they felt if they didn't they would be missing out. One salon owner stated she wanted to sell her salon and needed to have it busy when the future buyer was inspecting. Most said they liked the big lump sum of money at the beginning, but the lack of income over the months was difficult while they were fulfilling their obligations.

COUNTING THE COST When you create a promotion or drop your service prices, you must calculate what it is going to cost you to provide both labour and product costs so that you will know there is going to be a healthy profit at the end.

I believe you have to stop discounting and start value-adding.

Discounting may seem like an easy way to build your clientele, especially when you see all those appointment times filling up on your booking pages. However, the reality is if you give your services away too cheaply you will often end up losing money, damaging the longterm integrity of your services and destroying the loyalty and trust of your regular returning clients. There is also another consideration.

When you pull down the public perception of your services you impact the integrity of the profession as a whole, as you contribute to a public perception that undermines the value of that practice.

It may feel good to have your salon jam-packed every day with people, but you could simply end up tired, exhausted and very stressed trying to keep up the pace, with not much money to show for all your hard work.

I have to admit that discounted services will always be attractive to a certain type of person. There will always be “discount-chasers” who will travel anywhere for the thrill of saying they got a bargain. These people seldom return to pay full price in the future, rarely will they buy additional services or products, and if they do, they continue to demand the special prices because they are conditioned to it.

These clients are almost impossible to retain unless there are more discounts for them to take up, and if they can't get the cheap prices they are more than likely going to continue to search for them elsewhere.

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I can't stress enough that you must avoid this happening in your business when planning your promotions.

The important word to remember here is "value". This is what good clients are looking for at present, greater value and better service for their money.

A good promotion will allow you to still charge full price. With the economic climate being what it is today, there will never be a better time to review your business operations, but cheap prices is not the answer for your long-term survival.

Why not target the clients most likely to respond and need your services? Your goal would be to do more Cosmetic Tattoo treatments, but there would be very limited opportunities to increase your sales by promoting them to a young market, therefore, you need to target a receptive market.

In my Cosmetic Tattoo Clinic 95 per cent of my clients are in the over 45 age bracket. Their children are off their hands and they have time to take care of themselves with the extra disposable income. This is the age group that needs a Cosmetic Tattoo Treatment the most. They are losing eyebrow hair, definition and colour in the lips and eyes, they want their looks back, they want to look good and be confident.

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Once you understand who you should be targeting with your promotion, you need to think about how you are going to reach your most receptive audience.

Will it be with a newspaper ad, in-salon promotion, email blasts, local magazine, radio, letterbox drops, or perhaps Twitter or a Facebook campaign? Sometimes the best way is with your existing clientele sending them a letter and giving them a Gift Voucher for $50 to $100, for their recommendations to be used towards their next Cosmetic Tattoo procedure. Rewarding your old clients who are loyal and, your best advertisement for your work and spokesperson for your art is the most honest, reliable, rewarding and the less expensive way to have people selling your services. This works very successfully for me and keeps my appointments book filled for months.

Consider using the following formula to get a profitable result. You need to have clear idea of what you are trying to achieve with your promotion or advertising. Make it attractive and interesting to your clients and don't forget to measure your results as this is the bottom line.

The Cosmetic Tattoo industry, which I have been part of for 28 years, is making great strides in education and products and it is great being in practice during these exciting times.

The Society of Permanent Cosmetic Professionals USA is a sound nonprofit international association established 23 years ago, which I have been a member of for 22 years (now a Lifetime Member). I attend two conferences each year as part of my education so that I can keep abreast on new developments and new information. I am Education Chairperson on the Society's Board helping with education programs for members. All students training at Cosmetic Tattoo Australia receive automatic membership.

Each year Cosmetic Tattoo Australia sponsors an SPCP Educator to present at a Seminar in Sydney to further educate all trained Cosmetic Tattooists. This year it will be held on Sunday 28th and Monday 29th July, 2013. Watch the Cosmetic Tattoo Australia website for more details and mark your calendars with those dates and book early.

A message of conviction: The almighty triad of good work ethics is PERSEVERANCE, PASSION and PERSISTENCE. ㄰

Successful people do not procrastinate, but instead throw themselves wholeheartedly into their job and then sit back and reap the rewards of success. Remember, work smarter not harder.

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For further information contact COSMETIC TATTOO AUSTRALIA 02 9938 2111 | info@cosmetictattooaustralia.com www.cosmetictattooaustralia.com

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The Skin and Health virtues of Peppermint HERB AND ESSENTIAL OIL

By Tina Viney For centuries, peppermint tea has been enjoyed for its refreshing flavour in food and confectionery as well as in skincare. It has traditionally been recommended by herbalists and natural therapists for relief of a variety of disorders. More recently, peppermint tea has been explored by scientific researchers, who are increasingly verifying the evidence of history and recognising the health benefits of peppermint. So let's look at some of these findings and ways that this simple, yet amazing ingredient can be used for health and beauty.

THE EVIDENCE OF HISTORY Before scientific methodology was established, the efficacy of plantbased medicines was established by word of mouth. Peppermint tea was a popular "folk medicine" simply because it was reported to work so quickly and effectively in relieving a variety of disorders, including: ! Headaches ! Sinus problems ! Stomach upsets ! Menstrual cramps Just the aroma of peppermint tea can help open up the sinuses and assist in relieving the symptoms of colds or headaches, which is one reason why it is a popular ingredient in aromatherapy. In addition, when applied topically, peppermint infusions and peppermint oil have traditionally been used to treat conditions such as skin disorders and arthritis. ㄰ 㤵 㜵

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ORIGIN OF PEPPERMINT OIL AND CHEMICAL CONSTITUENTS Peppermint is distilled from the leaves and flowering tops of Mentha piperita, a native of the Mediterranean, and cultivated predominantly in Italy, Great Britain, Japan and China. There is also evidence of its use found in Egypt in a tomb dating back from 1000 BC. Peppermint oil is extracted from the whole plant above ground just before flowering. The oil is extracted by steam distillation from the fresh or partly dried plant and the yield is 0.1-1.0 %. It has a fresh,

sharp, menthol aroma, is clear to pale yellow in color and watery in viscosity.

The chemical constituents of peppermint oil are menthol, menthone, 1,8-cineole, methyl acetate, methofuran, isomenthone, limonene, bpinene, a-pinene, germacrene-d, trans-sabinene hydrate and pulegone.

Peppermint oil is classified as a top to medium note, which means that its aroma has an immediate impact and has cooling and refreshing properties.

NUTRITIONAL AND THERAPEUTIC PROPERTIES Nutritionally peppermint oil contains numerous minerals and nutrients, including manganese, iron, magnesium, calcium, folate, potassium and copper. It also contains omega-3 fatty acids, Vitamin A and Vitamin C. The therapeutic properties of peppermint oil can be classified as: analgesic, anesthetic, antiseptic, antigalactagogue, antiphlogistic, antispasmodic, astringent, carminative, cephalic, cholagogue, cordial, decongestant, emmenagogue, expectorant, febrifuge, hepatic, nervine, stimulant, stomachic, sudorific, vasoconstrictor and vermifuge.

WHAT ARE THE STUDIES SAYING? While many herbs and essential oils have been used through traditional recommendation only for their therapeutic benefits, today we are seeing the results of scientific studies emerging that support and validate some of their therapeutic properties. As far as peppermint is concerned there have been a few studies conducted examining its therapeutic systemic benefits, rather than its topical application on the skin. As a result of these studies peppermint oil is also sold in the form of capsules and tablets for internal use. You can view some of the research through several references at the end of this article. However, in summary here are some of the benefits for the use of peppermint oil as follows: ! Indigestion: Peppermint oil is very helpful in digestion. A few

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drops of peppermint oil in a glass of water taken after a meal is healthful due to its digestive properties. It is carminative and therefore helps in removing gas. Peppermint oil is a good tonic for those who have a low appetite. It also helps during motion sickness and upset stomach. Preliminary research has proved that peppermint oil in the combination of caraway oil can be used for treating heartburns.

Respiratory Problems: Menthol, which is present in abundance in peppermint oil, helps in clearing the respiratory tract. It is an effective expectorant and therefore provides instantaneous, although temporary, relief in numerous respiratory problems, including nasal congestion, sinusitis, asthma, bronchitis, cold and cough. As a result, it is used in numerous cold rubs.

Nausea and Headache: Peppermint oil is a good remedy for nausea and headache. Applying peppermint oil in diluted form on the forehead is known to remove headache.

Stress: Like most other essential oils, peppermint is able to provide relief from stress, depression and mental exhaustion due to its refreshing nature. It is also effective against anxiety and restlessness. Peppermint oil is also an ideal study aid for students and helps commuters drive more safely. In one study, just the aroma of peppermint tea was shown to help students remain alert and focused when studying. In another study, peppermint tea helped drivers stay alert and relaxed in traffic.

Irritable Bowel Syndrome: Peppermint oil, when clinically administered, has shown a great deal of promise in relieving Irritable Bowel Syndrome and studies confirm that regularly drinking peppermint tea may help relieve the symptoms of IBS. It is believed that this is also due to the muscle-relaxing property of peppermint oil; this has been validated through several scientific studies.

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Antispasmodic: Peppermint oil is very effective for gastroscopy, colonoscopy and during double-contrast barium enema. It is applied intraluminally. Further benefits of peppermint oil due to its antispasmodic properties are been confirmed and are currently being further reviewed.

Urinary Tract Infection: Peppermint oil can be used for treating urinary tract infection (UTI). However, thorough scientific studies have yet to be finalised to prove its efficacy at this stage.

Pain Relief: Peppermint oil can be used externally for providing relief from pain. It is believed that the presence of calcium antagonism in peppermint oil aids in removing pain. It is cooling in nature and therefore helps reduce fever.

Immune System: Peppermint oil increases your immunity to diseases and therefore helps you in preventing a number of diseases.

Blood Circulation: It also improves blood circulation.

Hair Care: Peppermint oil is very useful for hair care as it gives a cooling effect to the head, and removes dandruff and lice. It is also used in hair topic products to stimulate hair growth.

Skin Care: Peppermint oil contains Menthol, which is good for skin. It gives a cooling effect. Further, it nourishes dull skin and improves oily skin.

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MORE SPECIFICALLY FOR THE SKIN Due to peppermint's antibacterial, antimicrobial and antiseptic properties it is particularly effective when used as a cleansing agent on the skin and to help fight bacterial infections. While you will find peppermint or its derivative menthol in several skincare products, there are also practical ways that you can use the oil and the herb in the salon.

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Peppermint tea can be offered as a refreshing drink for your clients.

While you can always purchase organic peppermint tea bags, the fresh variety offers something extra special. You can purchase fresh peppermint as an herb from your growers' market, or even grow it organically yourself. A small handful of peppermint leaves can be seeped in hot filtered water or slightly simmered for one to two minutes to create a refreshing drink, or your own skin tonic. You can also store it in the fridge to be used as a cooling spritzer after waxing, a facial mask or extractions. A strong solution can also be combined with witch-hazel for an effective skin tonic.

Peppermint blends well with various other essential oils, including eucalyptus, rosemary, lemon and marjoram and is also particularly pleasant when combined with benzoin, a particular favourite of mine.

The soothing, cooling and antibacterial properties of peppermint make it a useful ingredient to also use for acne, itchy or blotchy skin as well as to enliven dull skin.

When used as an essential oil, dilute 15-20 drops in 50mls of almond or hazelnut oil and use as massage oil. It can also be added to aloe vera gel.

As a tea, add 3-4 drops diluted in a little honey and add to hot water.

Used as a compress for the skin add 10 drops to ½ cup or 100 mls of chilled water, shake well and apply on the skin as a compress.

While we are constantly being presented with advances in ingredient formulation it is also useful not to neglect the value of simple herbs and review beneficial ways to integrate their use in our life and our services.

SOURCES AND FURTHER READING:

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JYUNKA AUSTRALIA Phone 03 9821 0355 email: enquiry@jyunka.com.au, www.jyunka.com.au

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www.naturaltherapypages.com.au/article/the_health_benefits_of_peppermin t_tea#ixzz2J99qWyo5 http://www.nlm.nih.gov/medlineplus/druginfo/natural/705.html McKay DL, Blumberg JB (August 2006). "A review of the bioactivity and potential health benefits of peppermint tea (Mentha piperita L.)". Phytother Res 20 (8): 61933. doi:10.1002/ptr.1936. PMID 16767798.

Capello G,et al (April 2007). "Peppermint oil (Mintoil) in the treatment of irritable bowel syndrome: a prospective double blind placebo-controlled randomized trial". Dig Liver Dis. 39 (6): 5306. doi:10.1016/j.dld.

2007.02.006. PMID 17420159.

Yamamoto N, et al (November 2006). "Efficacy of peppermint oil as an antispasmodic during endoscopic retrograde cholangiopancreatography".

Gastroenterol Hepatol. 21 (11): 1768. PMID 16911682.

Peppermint. In: Blumenthal M, Goldberg A, Brinckman J, eds. Herbal Medicine: Expanded Commission E Monographs. Newton, MA: Lippincott Williams & Wilkins; 2000:297303.

Peppermint. Natural Medicines Comprehensive Database Web site.

Accessed at www.naturaldatabase.com on July 22, 2009.

Peppermint oil (Mentha x piperita L.). Natural Standard Database Web site.

Accessed at www.naturalstandard.com on July 22, 2009. http://www.umm.edu/altmed/articles/peppermint-000269.htm

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The Rosehip Specialists is a boutique Australian owned family business, best known for its evidence-based anti-inflammatory supplement, Rose-Hip Vital with GOPO®. Since then they have moved effortlessly into the skincare market in order to enhance people's external beauty with Rosehip Oil, which has been used for centuries for its potent skin-regeneration properties. They have produced their new Australian Certified Organic Cold Pressed Rosehip PLUS Oil Rosehip Oil for the skin, using only the highestquality rosehips that have been extracted using no heat, solvents or chemicals. A super-fine filtering process guarantees its purity to produce one of the finest-quality Rosehip Oils on the market.

Rosehip PLUS Rosehip Oil contains naturally occurring bioflavonoids, which act as potent anti-oxidants, helping to reduce free radical damage in the skin and thereby helping to reduce fine lines and wrinkles. The essential fatty acids (Omega 3, 6 & 9) in the oil help to keep the skin hydrated, moisturised and younger-looking.

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For information on Rosehip PLUS Rosehip Oil phone 1800 851 888 or visit http://www.rosehipplus.com.au/

ENVIRON IONZYME GOLD ROLL-CIT™ A must for those who want the ultimate in skincare results Dr Des Fernandes, renowned Reconstructive and Plastic Surgeon, was the world pioneer of Advanced Skin Perfusion. As the founder of Environ, he was the first to introduce the Cosmetic Roll-CIT (collagen induction therapy) – a remarkable instrument designed to enhance perfusion and increase efficacy of the vitamins contained in the Environ Skin Care products. The Environ Gold Roll-CIT is a luxurious addition to the Environ range of Roll-CITs. This exciting and meticulously crafted new Roll-CIT has 260 fine definitive points, ensuring its superiority and making it the most effective Cosmetic Roll-CIT in the Environ range. The Environ® Ionzyme Gold Roll-CIT comes with a 12-month guarantee with proof of purchase. For further details please contact www.margifox.com.au or 1300 754 622.

Line n Grow

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The power of Vitamin C and Marine Peptides

Line n Grow is perfect for anyone wanting l o n g e r, f u l l e r eyelashes. It is especially beneficial for those with short, brittle or thinning eyelashes.

Clinical studies have shown that Line n Grow is safe for contactlens wearers and sensitive eyes.

Containing p o w e r f u l antioxidants, polypeptides, Japanese Green Tea, Hyaluronic Acid and Rosemary extract, this incredible product will nourish, lengthen and grow lashes to their full potential. Line n Grow Tinted Lash Lengthener can be worn

Combining the power of encapsulated delivery system through a unique patented technology called QU-SOME and Cosmeceuticals, Jyunka skin products can produce unbeatable results through their amazing transdermal delivery system without the need for equipment to enhance their penetration. M+Fluid, containing 15% L-ascorbic Acid, is quickly delivered into the deeper layers of the skin plumping fine lines, lifting sagging skin, reducing dark circles under the eyes and lightening the appearance of pigmentation. To further enhance results Boto Caviar Serum is a powerful anti-ageing elixir with a special combination of advanced ingredients – Acetyl Hexapeptide8, Acacia Collagen, Caviar and Sodium Hyaluronate in very small molecular weight to allow for deeper penetration. When used in conjunction M+Fluid and Boto Caviar Serum transform the skin through increased hydration, tone and luminosity. For further

For further details contact Be Beauty on Ph: 1300 885 101

details contact Jyunka Australia Ph 03 9821 0355 email: enquiry@jyunka.com.au

daily under additional makeup.

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Boost the Skin's Defence WITH New generation Alpha-H SKIN LOVING Vitamins Kit

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Alpha-H Skin Loving Vitamins Kit, formerly known as the ACE Kit, contains their new and improved vitamin serums to repair, regenerate and recharge the complexion. Containing Vitamins A, C and E, this collection is an excellent introduction to topical vitamins and is a must for mature skins. The Skin Loving Vitamins Kit provides an effective and united defence against everyday environmental stresses and premature ageing.

For further information free call Alpha-H on 1800 659 777 or visit the new ecommerce site www.alpha-h.com

Sranrom Urban Wellness – Three unique collections Utilising high-quality formulations, Sranrom Urban Wellness Collection harnesses the power of Thai plants, herbs, flowers and essential oils to create distinctive blends to beautify as well as address modern-day stress, be it anxiety, exhaustion or the inability of getting a full night’s sleep.

Sleep Tight: Featuring a distinctly oriental floral bouquet, this aromatherapy collection is made from the intoxicatingly sweet-smelling essential oils of Jasmine and Champaca flowers, and enhanced with the freshness of Lavender oil. The aromas of the Jasmine and Champaca flowers soothe the senses and promotes a state of peace, while the refreshing Lavender removes nervous exhaustion and restlessness and induces sleep.

Available in: Shower Gel, Body Cream, Hand Cream, Bath/Massage Oil. Professional: Massage Oil, Shower Gel, Body Cream, Body Scrub (Creamy Clay based).

Calm Down: Featuring a heady herby-lime aroma, filled with fresh notes, this aromatherapy collection is made from the intensely fragrant essential oils of Kaffir Lime and Lemongrass. Both herbs are renowned for their aromatic abilities to clear headaches, soothe nerves and relieve tension. Available in: Shower Gel, Body Cream, Hand Cream, Shampoo, Conditioner, Bath/Massage Oil. Professional: Massage Oil, Shower Gel, Body Cream, Body Scrub (Sea Salt based)

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Get Lively: Featuring a fresh citrus aroma with warming notes, this aromatherapy collection blends invigorating properties of Sweet Orange Oil with energising Ginger oil. Sweet Orange Oil has long been used to uplift and refresh, while Ginger oil is known for its ability to warm the emotions. This vibrant blend revitalises the soul and refreshes. Available in: Shower Gel, Body Cream, Hand Cream, Bath/Massage Oil. Sranrom is distributed by Dynamic Skin Solutions:

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Phone Jacqui Guinane on 02 9525 8368 or email: info@dynamicskinsolutions.com.au

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LUMINESCE BY JEUNESSE GLOBAL Advanced Stem Cell Derived Skincare With Growth Factors The launch of Jeunesse Global's new LUMINESCE™ range containing human adipose stem-cell derived skincare containing over 200 growth factors now heralds the introduction of Regenerative Skincare to Australia. This skincare range is based on the principles of regenerative healthcare, which encourages the body's own cells to reproduce and repair, maintaining a healthy-looking and more youthful status. Luminesce, developed by some of the world's leading dermatological and anti-ageing physicians, is a 5-piece integrated skincare system, using growth factors that help stimulate the body's natural ability to replenish, moisturise and rejuvenate the skin by gently replenishing natural levels of proteins like collagen and elastin. According to a leading New York plastic surgeon and anti-ageing physician stem-cell derived skincare with growth factors is able to help support the structure of skin cells and coaxes the skin back to a regenerative state. Dr Vincent Giampapa, Medical Advisor to Jeunesse Global, stated that “this is the first time that Regenerative Medicine and the technology that supports the body to heal itself has been available to the public market, rather than just to the medical market. Altered gene expression results in a changed ratio of collagen and elastin, the substances that give the skin its firmness and pliability”. For information on the unique LUMINESCE™ skincare Phone 02 8007 3116 or visit www.JeunesseGlobal.com

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GreenCoffee Coffee Green

for proven proven for slimming and wellness results

Celebrate victory over the signs of ageing with Mila

D'Opiz Phyto de Luxe Gold

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For the first time in cosmetic history bio-technologists have succeeded in producing plant-cell cultures. The plant stem cells of “Uttwiler Spätlauber” protect and stimulate the skin's stem cells and delay chronological skin-ageing. Based on the a special complex of these stem cells the leading Swiss skincare formulators at Mila d'Opiz have produced the amazing Phyto de Luxe Gold range – four unique products that work synergistically to reverse the signs of ageing. This powerful complex, known as Phyto 4.7, utilises a combination of plant hormones that combat skin ageing caused by hormonal changes. They include a wellbalanced combination of unadulterated phytosteroles, such as soy beans, wild yams, cohosh, kudzu vine, pomegranate, angelica sinensis extract and Japanese knotweed. This powerful complex offers more than only antioxidant protection, it also corrects early signs of premature skin-ageing. For results that speak for

Green Coffee 8000 is a tasty antioxidant drink enriched with Ganoderma lucidum (Reishi), while Acai Berry Coffee 8000 contains a unique combination of the finest Arabica Green coffee beans and Acai berry – a powerful antioxidant that assists in weight loss and weight management. There is now clear scientific evidence of the health benefits of Green Coffee and since Dr Oz's presentation on his TV program on the results of its effect in speeding up metabolism, sales of Green Coffee have soared. This pleasant drink is a wonderful addition to any slimming program. It is very pleasant tasting and enjoyable and will also support skin health and overall wellbeing. GREEN COFFEE

8000 Available in convenient and attractively presented boxes of 10 from Emma Vita Wellness.

Phone 02 9328 3152.

Sranrom Calm Down Body Scrub Sranrom's favourite Professional Body Scrub is now available as a retail take-home spa product. The exotic blend of Kaffir Lime and Lemongrass Essential Oils is pre-mixed with Sea Salt for a divine body exfoliation.

This nourishing exfoliating treatment melts into the skin and is easily dissolved for removal in a shower (for clients home spa treatment), or a wet/dry room setup in salon. This blend of essential oils will refresh and clear the mind, while creating a sense of calm. Also available in matching Body Cream, Hand Cream, Shower Gel, Bath & Massage Oil. Sranrom products have been praised by leading editors for their amazing quality and appeal and acknowledged as being among the best new “must have” products on the market. Contact Dynamic Skin Solutions. Phone

themselves contact Mila D'Opiz on 1300 464 523 Email: info@boutiquemonique.com.au and ask for 02 9525 8368 or info@dynamicskinsolutions.com.au further information on their Special.

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APJ 86

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GET READY FOR MOTHER'S DAY

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Mother’s Day is a very special time to demonstrate our love and appreciation and there is no better gift than treating caring and giving mothers to a little personal indulgence through a treatment at your salon or clinic.

APAN’s beautifully presented Mother’s Day Vouchers double up also as a high-quality gift because you are special card. Promote them through your newsletter or display them at your reception counter to entice an thoughtful investment from your clients for their mother on this special day. Purchase a pack of 50 for just $38, postage included. Purchase 100 for $75 or buy a mixture of our wonderful cards – 150 cards for just $128.

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Visit www.apanetwork.com to view the full selection of cards and phone APAN on 07 5593 0360 to order.

Sranrom Mother's Day Gift Ideas Sranrom has created a collection called Mindful Living – a range of candles, oil burners and scented melts as the perfect complement for their Aromatic Body Care Collections. This enables clients to take home that true Spa Experience. All of the products are made with pure vegetable wax and essential oils of exotic Thai herbs that are used in everyday Thai life to help ease one's mood and balance the mind. Like the rest of the range they are free of petroleum derivatives, artificial fragrance and colour. Each candle is hand-poured by the peaceful farming community in the heart of Thailand. Divinely packaged, this collection makes an ideal gift for Mother's Day, or any other occasion.

Available scents – Compassion (Lemongrass, Lemon & Spearmint); Contentment (Tangerine, Grapefruit, Lemon); Consideration (Basil, Lime, Vetiver). Contact Dynamic Skin Solutions 02 9525 8368 or

info@dynamicskinsolutions.com.au

Skinstitut Enzymatic Micro Peel for the most sensitive skin Containing Papaya extract for an ultra-gentle micro exfoliation the Skinstitut Micro Peel leaves the skin fresh and revitalised. The Papaya enzymes microscopically peel the skin in seconds. It's the perfect product to soothe, smooth and hydrate even the most sensitive skins, such as Roaccutane users, rosacea and psoriasis. It also contains vitamin B3 to calm, hydrate and strengthen the skin and cucumber extract to cool and calm.

Additionally, chamomile, passionfruit and grape seed extra offer the skin extra protection. Suitable for all skin types, especially dehydrated and sensitive. Perfect for use after clinical treatments, such as IPL, laser, chemical peels, skin needling and microdermabrasion to further gently exfoliate dry or peeling skin. Available in generous 75mls tubes and retails at $45. For further details phone Skinstitut on 02 9460 7559 visit www.skinstitut.com

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JYUNKA AUSTRALIA Phone 03 9821 0355 email: enquiry@jyunka.com.au, www.jyunka.com.au

APJ 87

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AESTHETIC INDUSTRY BULLETIN

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This section presents the latest news, training dates and other Aesthetic Industry information.

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Omniderm Extends An Invitation To You ㈵

Ominiderm will be conducting a comprehensive training program for both their existing accounts and potentially new ones. If you would like to learn more about Dr Spiller cosmetics, Herbal Aktiv Peel and the new Phyto (mini peel) treatments please check out dates below. Omniderm would like to invite you to attend these exciting workshops. The training comes at NO CHARGE to you and you can gain some wonderful new skills, while learning more about how these amazing products can help you achieve fantastic results.

Dr Spiller Training: 6 May, 12 August, 14 October Workshop Dates: National workshop: 11 August.

Advanced training: 8 July Herbal Aktiv Peel Training: 7 May, 13 August, 15 October.

WESTERN AUSTRALIA: Dr Spiller Training: 13 May, 5 August, 21 October Workshop Dates: National workshop: 4 August.

Herbal Aktiv Peel Training: 14 May, 6 August, 22 October.

NSW: Dr Spiller Training: 20 May, 19 August, 28 October Workshop Dates: National workshop: 18 August.

Herbal Aktiv Peel Training: 21 May, 20 August, 29 October.

QUEENSLAND: Dr Spiller Training: 27 May, 9 September, 18 November Workshop Dates: National workshop: 8 September.

Herbal Aktiv Peel Training: 28 May, 10 September, 19 November.

For further details of locations and to reserve your place, please phone 03 9645 0200.

Webinar Master Class Training Dates Learn the latest in anti-ageing ingredients, spa technology and noninvasive professional treatments developed by leading cosmetic surgeon Dr Atia and turn your salon into a profitmaking Medi-Spa.

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Wed. 03 April Wed. 10 April Wed. 17 April Wed. 24 April

Cosmedical Skincare 10-11am Super Body & understanding fat &Cellulite10-11am Get Professional 10-11.30am Mineral Makeup 10-11am

Time

Certificates obtained after completion of each Webinar & Exam Call to Register TODAY 07 5593 4488

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Research results presented in the FASEB Journal shows that the phosphates in popular sodas accelerate signs of ageing and may also increase the prevalence of age-related complications such as kidney disease, cardiovascular calcification and skin atrophy.

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Soda Drinks Found To Accelerate Signs Of Ageing

To make t h i s d i s c o v e r y, Harvard researcher M . S h a w k a t Razzaque examined the effects of high phosphate levels in three groups of mice.

The first group of mice was missing a gene (klotho), which when absent causes mice to have toxic levels of phosphate in their bodies. These mice lived 8 to 15 weeks.

The second group of mice was missing the klotho gene and a second gene (NaPi2a), which when absent at the same time substantially lowered the amount of phosphate in their bodies.

These mice lived to 20 weeks.

The third group of mice was like the second group (missing both the klotho and NaPi2a genes), except they were fed a high-phosphate diet. All of these mice died by 15 weeks, like those in the first group. According to Razzaque, this suggests that phosphate has toxic effects in mice, and may have a similar effect in other mammals, including humans.

"Humans need a healthy diet and keeping the balance of phosphate in the diet may be important for a healthy life and longevity," said Razzaque, from the Harvard School of Dental Medicine.

"Avoid phosphate toxicity and enjoy a healthy life."

Source: Federation of American Societies for Experimental Biology

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Eccrine Sweat Glands Identified Key in Wound Healing 7th Annual Conference in Anti-Ageing & Aesthetic Medicine The AustralAsian Academy of Anti-Ageing Medicine (A5M) annual conference will be held this year on the 24-25 August 2013. The 7th Annual Conference in Anti-Ageing & Aesthetic Medicine will focus on the theme Obesity and the Metabolic Syndrome: An Integrative Practice, and will combine both internal and external aspects of Anti-Ageing and Regenerative Medicine including workshops and poster presentations discussing the latest research and protocols.

A5M is recognised at the peak authoritative body in anti-ageing and regenerative medicine. The conference will present the very latest in evidence-based research findings and is highly recommended not only for medical and healthcare practitioners, but also for cosmetic nurses, dermal and aesthetic therapists who wish to gain credible knowledge on the latest research findings that can support their aesthetic treatment outcomes. For further information and to register visit http://www.a5m.net/ conferences/default.page.aspx

Researchers from the University of Michigan, Ann Arbor have reported that eccrine sweat glands may play a role in wound healing. The article, which was published on Nov. 16, 2012, in the American Journal of Pathology, suggests that eccrine sweat glands rather than hair follicles and surrounding skin may fuel the re-epithelialisation of human wounds. The researchers believe this understanding could lead to improved wound treatments.

The researchers chose to study the role of eccrine sweat glands in human wound healing based on the importance of other skin appendages such as hair follicles, apocrine glands and sebaceous glands in wound repair in model animals.

While eccrine sweat glands are not present in most laboratory animals, they are in primates such as humans, which are the only mammals to have the glands throughout the body.

To study the gland's role in wound healing, partial-thickness wounds were generated on healthy human forearms of 31 volunteers using two passes of a carbon dioxide laser. Full-thickness punch biopsy samples were then obtained at precise times during the first week after wounding.

Wound re-epithelialisation was assessed using immunohistochemistry and computer-assisted 3-dimensional reconstruction of in vivo wounded skin samples.

New Research Suggest That Fermented Cheese May Offer Solutions In Anti-ageing Skincare While the low incidents of cardiovascular disease in France (despite their high saturated fat consumption) has been attributed to “the French paradox” and the presence of resveratrol in wine, new studies are now suggesting that it may be due also to the cheese itself. According to researches from Lycotec, a biotechnology company, they have now surprisingly discovered anti-inflammatory properties of some metabolites produced by Penicillium roqueforti, Penicillium camemberti from fermented blue-vein cheese Roquefort. One of the specific targets of these metabolites is the downstream of the inflammatory cascade. ㄰ 㤵

Extensive laboratory and clinical validation by Cambridge-based scientists have demonstrated that these anti-inflammatory factors, which occur during the ripening of the cheese, have unique properties that work best in acidic environments, most notably in the stomach lining and the skin's surface.

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It is now well established that characteristic of ageing is the result of sub-clinical inflammation that is behind many ageing processes such as, loss of skin and muscle tone, cellulite, as well as systemic disorders, such as cardiovascular diseases. These findings have led the research team to urge beauty and pharmaceutical product companies to take a look at this new discovery that could lead to the development of a new generation of pharmaceuticals and future cosmetic products, of course without the cheese smell one would hope.

It was found that eccrine sweat glands beneath the wound generated keratinocyte outgrowths three days after wounding that ultimately form the new epidermis. The rate of expansion of keratinocyte outgrowths from eccrine sweat glands paralleled the rate of re-epithelialisation. At four days after wounding, eccrine sweat glands underlying the wound were positive for a marker of proliferative cells. In unwounded skin, few eccrine glands are positive for this marker. The findings suggest that human eccrine sweat glands may store stem cells that can quickly be supplied to aid wound healing. The researchers believe their findings may lead to improved treatment of human wounds and may benefit skincell isolation techniques for therapy.

http://www.lycotec.com/Home.html

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Multi-functional skincare trends on the rise with BB Creams

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Switch the Profits On in your Spa Business

It is not just the men who are seeking multifunctionality in their skincare, now women are also looking for products with multiple benefits. Enters BB Foundation creams that offer wonderful foundation colour, superior hydration, SPF factors and serious anti-ageing ingredients. The popularity of these products is soaring as women are seeking much more from their foundation.

Now there two new products that are following up from this trend – CC Cream is a new sub-category developed by Chanel – a completely new creation that combines not three, but five actions in the one product. Soothes with cornflower, moisturises with hyaluronic acid, protects with an SPF30 plus PA+++ sun filters that block ageing accelerating UVA-UVB rays, protects with the unique ingredient Rejuvencia and evensout imperfections through a light, yet effective concealing ingredient.

As the competition continues the new trend is now DD cream, which stands for daily defence and was first launched in the UK. Unlike its predecessors, which are mainly for the face, DD creams are for tougher areas of the skin such as the feet and body. The UK is seeing the first launches of DD creams for your driest, roughest skin. Using aloes and vitamins, DD creams are promising to soften the toughest skin, moisturise, reduce blemishes, reduce the appearance of stretch marks and more. It's being promoted for use on cracked heels, rough areas such as hands, knees and elbows or any scars and stretch marks from childbirth. Make room on your shelves, ladies!

If you are finding the going tough in the current economy then you need to hear how many successful spa owners have maximised their sales. It seems the secret to their success is industry business expert Caroline Nelson.

Attending the “Switch the Profits On in your Spa Business” seminar could be the catalyst to taking your business to the next level. You will learn the techniques and concepts to make your business more commercially viable and profitable. Caroline will share her cutting edge insights, practical ideas and new ways of gearing your business for financial success for today and into the future.

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Caroline is also delighted to announce Marc Stubbs from Beauty Salon Social Media will be a guest speaker at the seminar. Marc is fast becoming known as the Facebook guru for the beauty industry. This young gun will share his expertise on how you too can develop the hugely popular social media phenomena and drive business into your spa.

Join Caroline and Marc for this dynamic seminar – Book online for “Switch the Profits On in your Spa Business” seminar Sydney 8 April 2013 and Sydney 22 April 2013 www.SalonSpaEvents.com or phone 07 5528 9440.

Anti-Ageing Hair Care If you think that anti-ageing products is just about the skin, think again.

Haircare is rapidly becoming part of the growing antiageing phenomenon. As formulators rush to include SPFs and a host of restorative ingredients, we are seeing this sector continue to innovate and grow. The issue is who should be recommending these products, hairdressers or aesthetic therapists.

The answer is both.

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The sun, hair tints, stress, hormonal changes in the body all can reap havoc on the hair, making it dull, untamed and faded, and all these conditions make the individual appear more aged. Look out for ingredients such as Caviar with its high nutrient and anti-oxidant content. You will find it in Alterna's Caviar Rapid Repair Spray. This anti-ageing product also incorporates vitamins, essential oils and microsilcones to restore hair lustre, bounce and vitality to brittle, dry and ageing hair. Another product is Carita le Cheveu's Anti-Age Capillaire Hair Treatment. A course of 10 treatments promises to fight the signs of ageing over a five-week period. While aesthetic clinics specialise in skin, a selection of specialty anti-ageing haircare products could be included in your retail recommendations to ensure that a rejuvenated face is also framed beautifully with healthy-looking hair.

Ref: http://www.salonstyle.com.au/alterna?gclid=CLbj_5mQs7UCFXBYpgodTmsA3g

VET Fee-Help Now Available for Dermal Science Education The Australasian Academy of Cosmetic Dermal Science is pleased to announce VET Fee-Help is now available for the following nationally accredited qualifications: ! Advanced Diploma of Cosmetic Dermal Science (52320) ! Dual Qualification Package consisting of the Vocational Graduate Certificate in Dermal Therapies (52356) & the Vocational Graduate Certificate in IPL and Laser Hair Reduction (SIB70110) ! Vocational Graduate Certificate in Cosmetic Nursing (52448WA) ! These qualifications can be studied online (with practical competencies completed in Perth, Sydney, Gold Coast or Melbourne) or on-campus in Perth or Gold Coast.

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VET Fee-Help is an Australian Government loan scheme in which the student repays when their earnings reach a certain threshold. This enables students to gain a qualification and not pay course fees until they're working/earning. For further information about dermal science qualifications offered through AACDS and VET Fee-Help, please visit www.aacds.edu.au or call 08 9381 3448.

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INNOVATIVE SERVICES

GUARANTEED TO

BOOST YOUR

BUSINESS CLINICALLY PROVEN TO IMPROVE SKIN APPERANCE Before

After 3 Weeks

• REDUCES THE APPEARANCE OF WRINKLES AND FINE LINES

• I MPROVES THE OVERALL APPEARANCE OF SKIN

CUPRON PILLOWCASE ✓ Clinically-proven and patented ✓ Environmentally friendly and natural on-irritating and lasts for the life of ✓N the product

CLINICAL SKINCARE A NATURACEUTICAL RANGE

NATURE PUT THINGS TOGETHER FOR A REASON, WE PUT THEM TOGETHER FOR RESULTS... NATURALLY!

NEW CABERNET PEEL KIT

ACNE

A REVOLUTION IN NATURAL PEELING USING RED WINE! 9 Reasons Why Your Clients Need A Cabernet Peel 1. Helps to moisturise and soften skin 2. Protects against UVA and UVB radiation (from 240 to 340nm) 3. Contains free-radical scavengers and potent antioxidants 4. Improves the texture of the skin 5. Fights the visible signs of ageing 6. Evens out discolouration and gently clarifies the skin 7. Is free of irritants, therefore suitable for allergy-prone skin types 8. Is anti-bacterial and anti-microbial 9. Renews skin cells with a short turnover of collagen fibroblasts which help remove lines and wrinkles.

Before

After PIGMENTATION

Before

After

Only for Professionals - Register for our Product Knowledge Course on our website to learn more.

Place a $5,000 Clinical Skincare Naturaceuticals Opening Order and receive a $5,000 Credit* against equipment purchases. *Conditions Apply. Offer Expires 30.6.13

CLINICAL Q-Switched Nd:YAG • Multi-colour tattoo removal • Pigmented lesions • Stretch marks reduction • Vascular lesions • Scars and keloids • Anti-aging treatments • Firming (NEW) • Ablative skin rejuvenation (NEW)

Before

ASK US ABOUT OUR:

After

Before

To view all that we can provide, visit our Website or give us a Call today!

After

• Clinical PowerShaper • Clinical Fractional CO2 Laser • Clinical Skin Clear • Clinical RF CEYA • Clinical ND:YAG L+S + IPL

1800 628 999

www.clinicalpro.com.au

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Surviving and Thriving in a fiercely competitive market In difficult economic times companies come and go, but it takes resilience and a progressive and innovative mind to develop products and strategies that will meet and stand up to the challenges of a changing word, particularly in the aesthetics and skincare industry.

business premises and residence twice, due to the high growth and expansion into 23 European countries and the North and South Americas, who are currently looked after by other co-partners, all of whom provide input into new formulations targeted to their individual country's specific climatic skin conditions that affect their clients' skin problems.

Metro-Dora Clifford is the Director of ClinicalPro and shares with us her company's amazing journey over the past 32 years in achieving what is now considered one of the most credible, innovative and forward-thinking companies servicing professional aesthetics in Australia.

Today, we have branded our unique Skincare, Healthcare and Equipment products as “ClinicalPRO” to identify to the Australian market that we are a professional leader in the industry providing the industry with the knowledge, tools, training and products so you as a new or existing business owner will have the power to prosper as our motto says – Success is our Priority!

APJ 1: Can you please share with us a little about your company's evolution and what does ClinicalPRO stand for today?

Metro-Dora: C-SHE Australia Pty Ltd trading as ClinicalPRO was

CSHE Australia P/L trading as ClinicalPRO was born at a time when people in Australia were just becoming aware of their skin's needs and the beauty industry in Australia was starting to grow its identity. So, from very humble beginnings in 1981 ClinicalPRO soon grew as a small family business able to achieve a turnover of over $5 million within five years and boasting a staff of over 35 therapists and sales team. But with the vagaries of the financial crisis and stiff competition from new entrants to the industry we have taken the important decision to downsize, and even though we are a leaner organisation today we have not, and never will, compromise on our high standards of product efficacy, excellent clinical training and unrivalled customer service that is now being handed down to the next generation, allowing them to grow in whichever direction they wish to expand.

started in May 1981 as Clinical Skincare, Healthcare & Equipment Pty Ltd in a spare bedroom while I was recovering from a miscarriage (caused by stressfully long corporate working hours in one of Brisbane's top international legal and accounting firms). I responded to a talkback radio show wanting to help a caller who was asking about drug-free treatments for Acne and Pigmentation problems. Picking the phone up I told the radio station that I was a biochemist and a clinical scientist, and that I would be able to help her if she brought all her current skincare products so I can check out their ingredients and would add any missing ingredients to produce a crème for her problems. I gave her my address and phone details and said that I was on sick leave for another week and I could fit her in any time. ㄰ 㤵 㜵

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By the time I put the phone down I had several callers at my door and a buzzing phone, asking for the same kind of help. I got started right away mixing whatever ingredients I had over the kitchen bench and showed these callers how to use them. What started out as an initiative to help a couple of women in distress with skin problems turned into a multi-million-dollar business in a few years! But C-SHE Aust. P/L has never lost sight of its raison d'etre as we continue to support all size businesses to date and never turn away a home-studio business owner like some of our competitors. Within seven years we had to move

APJ 2: Many companies are predominantly either skincare focused with some investment in equipment, while others are predominantly equipment focused with some smaller investment in skincare. What is your position?

Metro-Dora: ClinicalPRO has always had an equal focus on not just skincare and equipment, but also embracing healthcare to help the ageing baby boomers achieve their desire to continue to look and feel good! We realised right from the start that focusing only on either one was like leaving out either the meat or the vegies from your healthy balanced diet. Strictly speaking, ClinicalPRO was a pioneer in this

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area, offering not just skincare, but also healthcare and equipment right from the start, and that is what set us apart from the others in this field. But it was only in the last seven to 10 years that our other competitors have jumped on the bandwagon! Imitation, it is said, is the sincerest form of flattery and, in this case, we could not agree more!

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Our skincare, healthcare and equipment products really work, and move in very close synergy with each other to deliver outstanding quicker results that clients demand today. Every piece of equipment that we sell has been chosen only after we have satisfied ourselves of the synchronous action with our skincare and healthcare to deliver those excellent results that our clients have come to expect.

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APJ 3: How do you view the interaction of technology with appropriate skincare formulations and how precise does this partnership have to be to gain optimal results?

Metro-Dora: The interaction of technology with appropriate skincare formulations is a fail-proof partnership that can't go wrong! It has to be a perfectly balanced partnership where at any given time each partner provides adequate support and fills in gaps precisely where and when the other partner needs it – that's the only way to achieve optimal results.

Our choice of a skincare range did not just happen by chance. With my background in bioscience and my passion for flawless skin, I personally researched all possible skincare manufacturers, with specific focus on the use of only naturally sourced ingredients; no runof-the-mill skincare would do. Just as I would not trust my own skin to any crème or lotion unless I was 100% sure of its ingredients, I would not risk offering the same skincare to my clients it is a very personal relationship. We are not a fly-by-night operator trying to make a quick dollar we are here for the long haul. Similarly, the equipment that we sell is tried and tested for treatments with high-tech skincare and healthcare ingredients to produce the fastest, optimal and the most lasting results.

Having grown up within a manufacturing background and from a long line of engineers in the family, I was able to source the best manufacturers for our equipment that help us to tailor-make our equipment to our customers' needs. We can offer you individualised equipment with multi-facet accessories that will keep unnecessary costs down, while providing the upgrades and added accessories as your business needs grow. All our technology comes from research laboratories in Europe, USA and Israel.

APJ4: What does ClinicalPRO offer clinics and salons that you believe positions you as a leader in the industry?

Metro-Dora: To begin with, ClinicalPRO accesses the most unique

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talents and expertise from the very best skilled and qualified persons in both laboratories and manufacturing plants from the medical and skincare industry. We don't stop at just supplying a high-quality range of natural skincare formulations known to day as NATURACEUTICALS or state-of-the-art medical devices that are all TGA listed – we also understand and anticipate the needs and aspirations of each individual business owner in the clinic or salon. We provide complete solutions, right from professional Clinical Therapist training through to salon set-up, business and RSP plans, we provide government approved “Laser Use and Possession Licences” with successful Laser Operations for start-up businesses, so they can become confident and skilled operators providing safe practices with laser or IPL technologies. Our structured Clinical Skincare Courses,

unique product knowledge and equipment training held throughout the year are tailored to bring clinics and salon owners and their therapists the most up-to-date techniques with the latest in ingredient technology and treatments. They know they can rely on us at any time for advice and support. Our Clinical Therapist Course is trademarked and internationally recognised.

ClinicalPRO was instrumental in introducing our flagship product Epidermal Growth Factor in 1981, followed by Chiral-correct products in 1991, even before it was introduced into Europe and the USA! In 2001 we introduced the Anti-radical range of skincare products that is unsurpassed for its benefits on allergy-prone and super-sensitive or reactive skins. In 2011 we introduced into Australia another major industry break-through with the unique patented technology that is able to bind natural retinol with natural cyclodextrins to produce a stable and very effective Vit-A product in a Retinoldehyde form that is easily accepted into the skin without the irritation of retinol, but a perfect balance of extremely low-irritation and high-level results! A pathfinder you may say, and once again, others have followed with our plant stem cell extracts and serums that we introduced five years ago.

The term “Naturaceutical” did not exist until CSHE Australia P/L created a range of natural skincare sourced from the finest of natural ingredients with the highest concentration and pharmaceutical grade purity from all over the world to provide extraordinary antiinflammatory, anti-radical, anti-ageing and super hydrating benefits that transform the skin and tantalise the senses during a treatment.

We generally attract the most experienced operators in this industry who have tried the most and then settle for the best once they realise that the authenticity, efficacy and purity that our products offer are unrivalled.

At ClinicalPRO we go that extra mile to provide all businesses, great and small the power to prosper so they stay in business. With gratitude we are able to say today, that we have helped set up some of the most successful clinics and clinical beauty salons in Australia.

If you need a helping hand, ClinicalPro has its hands stretched for you. Call 1-800-628-999 to try us out today.

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international qualifications graduating with a CIDESCO diploma as well as a CIBTAC qualification.

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I was very fortunate to gain my work experience with a paramedical clinic whose focus was on advanced skin therapies and worked there for two months. This experience made me realise that my passion was in corrective skin treatments rather than beauty and so I decided to continue to specialise in this area. The opportunity arose where I was able to purchase a traditional beauty therapy salon in Nedlands, which offered basic grooming services. However, I slowly changed its focus to skin therapies and worked with brands such as DMK Danne. While the products and the company were amazing and with their support I was able to achieve WA Clinic of the Month in July 2010, I still wanted to pursue further studies and gain formal qualifications in Dermal Therapies, and so I enrolled with the Australasian Academy of Cosmetic Dermal Science (AACDS) and added Dermal Therapies to my qualifications.

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APJ 2: How has Dermal Therapies benefited your scope of practice and confidence?

Jeanette: As I identified earlier, I wanted to further my knowledge in advanced skin treatments, I realised that additional qualifications would enable me to perform a higher standard of treatments with greater skill and knowledge. While my knowledge of the skin was good I felt I needed to advance my understanding of treatment protocols to a higher and more scientific level.

APAN Member Profile As a community of practice APAN doesn't take its members for granted. As a gesture of appreciation we feature a member in every issue of APJ. Our members are diverse and varied, from beauty and aesthetic therapists to nurses, dermal therapists, suppliers, business owners, as well cosmetic physicians and plastic surgeons.

Each individual is valuable and precious to us and we believe they bring their own commitment and passion and expertise to define a dynamic and constantly changing profession known as aesthetic therapies, dermal therapies or cosmetic medicine.

In this issue we present to you Jeanette Elliott from Western Australia.

Jeanette is part of the new breed of dermal therapists and we talk with her about her interesting career journey.

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APJ 1: Jeanette, when did your journal in beauty therapy begin and what prompted you to take this course of action?

Jeanette: My background was in the legal profession where I worked for several years as a legal personal assistant in Perth, Western Australia, but as long as I can remember I was always fascinated about the skin. While I was successful in my career I sometimes contemplated to explore other career pathways with a possible change in my profession. For me that defining moment came in my early 40s when I decided to train in aesthetics. I enrolled at an international beauty college and completed my Diploma in Beauty Therapy and gained a national qualification, as well as completed two additional

I did most of my training on-line and thoroughly enjoyed it. The skills and knowledge I gained were more scientific and clinical and it gave me greater confidence in understanding various skin conditions and more effective ways of treating the skin for sustained improvement.

This qualification also gained me greater respect from both my clients as well as with medical professionals. On a practical level I also added to the scope of my treatments IPL, microderabrasion, needling and a full range of advanced chemical peels and how to work effectively with free acid peels such as Salicylic acid and Jessner peels. This measurably increased my scope of treatment capabilities and the results I can now achieve.

APJ 3: Which is your all-time favourite product and what do you enjoy about it the most?

Jeanette: I would have to say that in terms of skincare products I love using a variety of Vitamin C and Vitamin A products. These two ingredients optimise collagen production and are well supported by research studies. They give my skin excellent results.

APJ 4: How do you create balance in your life and what do you do to relax?

Jeanette: In 2010 my husband and I purchased a love property on a one and a half acre block in Donnybrook, which is a beautiful regional area two hours south of Perth. It's a wonderful location that offers an abundance of local produce and wines. We have a beautiful house that I thoroughly enjoy and a peaceful and loving environment, which I

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share with my loving husband, and this is where I find my peace.

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Q5. What changes do you see in your profession and what are your aspirations for the future?

Jeanette: This is a rapidly changing industry with advanced

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technologies, procedures and qualifications now starting to define its identity. For this reason more formal legislation will need to be introduced to establish appropriate regulations in order to protect the reputation of this industry and to ensure that clear guidelines ensure safe practices for the benefit of the consumers.

While I was in Perth I was able to observe how advanced education was progressively changing the industry and how consumers welcomed the new levels of results. Here in the country there is still little awareness of how much more is now available to them.

As I entered this profession as a mature-aged student I believe I can use this to my advantage. My intention is to establish a practice in a professional centre that includes a small medical clinic that I can work collaboratively with. I want to continue to offer more advanced skin therapy treatments, but no traditional beauty services as such. Being a mature aged therapist will allow individuals who are seeking anti-ageing results to feel more comfortable with me in terms knowledge, trust and understanding.

I love change and enjoy broadening my horizons, so I look forward to what doors my qualifications and skills will open up for me and in bringing something positive to the region.

Jeanette Elliott can be contacted on Phone: 08 97312343 Mobile: 0417927 782 | Email: elliott.ja@bigpond.com

Improve your niche and competitive advantage through ADVANCED TRAINING There is no better way to become more competitive and grow your business than training in highly specialised niche areas. Sara Naderi is a qualified beauty therapist, cosmetic tattooists and trainer with over 20 years experience and specialises in training in the following four areas: Cosmetic Tattooing – Post graduate refresher courses as well as for

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beginners. (Government Approved Qualifications also available – Design and Perform Cosmetic Tattooing SIBBSKS504A through registered RTO. This is one of the most popular and lucrative procedures.

Eyebrow Threading – Currently gaining great popularity and in high demand, eyebrow threading is a specialised technique that will allow you to create the perfectly designed eyebrow, while stimulating collagen production.

Hair Replacement – This is a very specialised, sophisticated technique that is excellent for conditions of alopecia, very fine hair and balding. It offers very natural and amazing results that will boost your client's confidence and is suitable for both men and women.

Hair Extensions – This is a very popular procedure that requires attention to detail. It offers an excellent addition to your services and will attract on-going and repeat business.

Upgrade your skills today and watch your business grow.

For further information please contact Sara on 0405 463 636.

Mobile Marketing is the most powerful media ever invented

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– New York Times

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AUSTRALIAN AND WORLDWIDE STATISTICS ARE CLEAR – IT IS BECOMING A MOBILE WORLD

There are expected to be one billion Smart Phones by 2013. By 2014, in Australia the Smart Phone will overtake the desktop as the device most used to get access to the Internet. This kind of growth is hard to ignore and Smart Phones are changing how consumers access the Internet, search for products and services, consume news and manage social networks.

HAVE YOUR OWN MOBILE APP BUILT APAN Strategic Alliance Partner – Kharis Enterprises are professionally Smart Phone Apps developers. with over 20 years association with the Aesthetic and Beauty Industry. As a Strategic Alliance Partner, Kharis will offer APAN members a discount.

SOME OF THE FEATURES AN APP CAN SUPPLY PUSH NOTIFICATION – Connect with customers for free, directly through your mobile app with 97% read rate compared to only 4% of emails. Use to broadcast specials, discounts, reminders, coupons, etc.

Use “PUSH” Notification to get clients to book last minute to fill empty treatment slots during the day.

PRODUCT INFORMATION – Provide product item and detail information into your app, letting your client view your offerings on their Smart Phone. Include video clips, testimonials and detailed information. The more informed your clients are receiving from you the more likely they will want to purchase your products.

LOYALTY PROGRAM THROUGH GPS COUPONS – Use the Smart Phone built-in GPS to implement “GPS Coupons”. The “GPS Coupon” is a coupon that is locked until the a cretain number of visits. Every time your client comes in the GPS “knows” and your app ticks a visit off the coupon. When the desired number of visits has been achieved, the coupon is unlocked.

USING QR CODE COUPONS – Smart Phones can scan a special type of digital information barcode called a QR Code (see at top). This QR Code is read by the Smart Phone and contains information about anything you want. The QR code program is included in your app.

This allows you to use QR Code Coupons to advertise specials on services and products. These QR Codes can be printed and placed in your physical business, in your advertising or on your web site.

PLATFORM FOR PROOF – This is a place where information about your business is located – testimonials, educational videos, web links, etc. These allow your clients to do their own research in your app.

NEW CLIENTS INFORMED ABOUT YOU – With your free app in the apps store, you have the potential to attract new clients to your business. Your app provides instant access to all details about your business – right on their Smart phone 24/7.

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FULL BACK-OFFICE CONTROL FEATURES – You have complete control over your apps through a simple web-based contentmanagement system – if you can email you can manage your app.

To discuss your Business App or for further information contact Kharis Enterprises on Mobile: 0412 177 423 or Email: apps@kharis.com

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The Highs & Lows of SELLING a Salon or Spa Business

By Caroline Nelson

The reality is that it's not always easy to sell when you want to and many, when under stress, will make unwise, uninformed decisions that will cost them dearly both financially and emotionally. I constantly hear sad stories of dreams dashed, relationships damaged and financially security lost when decisions are made to sell a business without considering the appropriate way to do it so that you come out a winner in the end. If you are contemplating selling your business, I suggest before you go ahead and decide to sell please read this article because forewarned is by far the best option.

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HOW TO GET THE BEST PRICE WHEN SELLING A SALON OR SPA 1. Your highest priority is to increase profits and cash flow

At any given time there will be numerous salon or spa owners seriously considering placing their business up for sale. Equally there will be many passionate therapists dreaming of owning their own business. On the other hand there will be those with no industry experience who see the potential in owning a beauty business. In this article I will be covering some of the pitfall in selling a business and things you can do to prepare for selling. In my follow-up article in APJ I will cover considerations you need to look at when buying a business.

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being the case, the lead-in preparation time to get the business shipshape and ready for sale will be a critically important phase.

First, selling a business is a serious matter and the decision to sell should never be made on a whim, or when you are feeling emotional.

For example, I often hear people talk about a staffing issue that has finally been the “straw that has broken the camel's back” and they make the decision to place their business on the market during the heat of the moment. Never make life-changing financial decisions when you are under emotional stress.

Anyone who wants to sell their business would like to make as much money as possible out of the transaction so they will have sufficient money to move on to their new life without financial hardship. That

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Sometimes when I say this a business owner will say if I can increase profits and cash flow I wouldn't need to sell the business. And that's absolutely correct for many people, as many will need to sell because they are quickly going broke.

But is it feasible or even possible to find a buyer for a business on the slippery slope to ruin? I don't think so. It is far easier to sell a going concern that is showing profit and opportunities for growth and/or expansion, and for this reason I am often engaged to help a business get back on track to show profit and improve saleability. Often, once good profits start to flow, funnily enough when the management stress levels are reduced, the decision to sell is sometimes reversed.

On the other hand, if the business owner still decides to sell then increasing profits and cash flow will not only deliver a higher sale price, it will also be a critical element for the potential purchaser to make a decision to buy. Why you may ask? The reason is that most people buying a business will not have the full asking price in cash, therefore they will need a financial loan to complete the purchase and that loan will need to be serviced using the business's profits each month. In addition, the financial institution providing the loan will need to know that the loan commitments can be met. So people want and need to buy a business delivering profits. Also a better-quality purchaser will be attracted by a successful, thriving operation. In essence the more profitable the business, a higher sale price will be achieved, and the more buyers who have the capacity to finalise the sale will be attracted. What you don't want is 'tyre-kickers' who either don't have the money to purchase or only want a bargain-basement price.

Be aware that once a contract has been entered into you will be obliged to provide full financials to the potential purchaser for them and their accountants to scrutinise. They will be able to put your business under the microscope when completing their due diligence. You will need to get your solicitor to prepare the sale contract and this is at your expense. So if the sale does not proceed you will be out of pocket and a potential future competitor will know the ins and outs of your business.

To sell a business you will need to have all your financials up-to-date so that they can stand up to the due diligence they will come under.

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2. Get all procedural systems on auto-pilot Bear in mind many buyers will be either new to operating a business or new to the beauty industry so they will be more inclined to purchase an efficiently run and systemised business. Every aspect of the business needs to operate like a well-oiled machine so the new owner will easily and seamlessly step in and continue on a profitable path. The more efficient the business the more profitable and the higher the sale asking price can be. A well-documented staff policies and procedures manual will be required, with each employee inducted and following the guidelines.

3. Train and develop a strong workforce Remember, no-one wants to purchase a business employing a dysfunctional team. After all, why should they pay for someone else's problems or poor management mistakes? It is therefore important to correct any staff issues before even considering selling.

Each employee must be fully aware of their job description and the requirements for them to meet the individual job specifications. Many purchasers will request a written job description of both employees and the owner/manager to pursue as part of their due diligence. The astute buyer will be well aware of what they need to check before proceeding with the purchase.

A potential buyer will also want to know that all employees in the current operation are skilled not only to perform all services listed in their job descriptions to a high standard, but also that they have the ability to recommend and sell these services along with retail products.

4. Expand the Client Base A large part of what a potential buyer will be purchasing is goodwill, and some of that will be attributed to the buyer’s expectation of future economic gain or benefits, so the size and regularity of your client base will be weighed up along with other factors, including the business financials, equipment, fit-out, length and conditions of the current lease, marketing, and stock on-hand.

A beauty business goodwill is partly classed as professional practice goodwill, similar to other professional practices such as doctors or accountants. Practice goodwill is an intangible asset because it relates to the business's reputation, active client base, location, performance and operating procedures developed by the service provider that has allowed them to produce the income. The buyer is in fact buying a blueprint of how to successfully operate the business along with an expected clientele.

5. Products and Services

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Although some potential buyers will want to stock their favourite skin and make-up ranges they will be aware that the brands you currently stock have in part contributed to its current financial stability. So the wise business should stock a professional only brand that can't be purchased from online websites such as strawberryNET.com. The brand should have a good mark-up, reliable supply, high quality and readily available product knowledge training, and offer additional support like gift with purchase and staff incentive programs.

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New customer incentives include having a sign-up box or drop down box that people click on to, to receive a free offer. For example, a $20 voucher. Once they click on they are required to provide their contact details and tick that they are happy to receive marketing such as special offers or a newsletter. This is what is called permission-based marketing. Once they have completed the form they will then have the voucher emailed to them.

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7. Social Media / Facebook presence

8. Appearance of the Business Most buyers just like the home buyer will be greatly influenced by “kerb” appeal. First impressions do count so all signage must be current and fresh – faded peeling paint will not do. A clean, attractive, inviting outside appearance matched by a facility that is clean, functional and orderly inside will impress potential buyers.

Prior to placing the business on the market a complete 'spring clean' is advised and any repairs and cosmetic refresh like painting, new treatment couch linen, towels, fresh posters and healthy plants can add big dollars to the sale price, and for additional impact, make sure when the front door is opened those who enter are enveloped in a beautiful fragrance. Personally I believe that every salon or spa should have a signature aroma.

Once the business is in shipshape condition and ready for sale and the decision to sell has been made you will need to engage a broker. My advice is to get a professional business broker and preferably someone with a good track record selling salons or spas. The broker will require you to invest in a marketing package so that they can promote your business to all potential buyers. In addition both your accountant and solicitor will need to be contacted so that they can advise in your best interests during any potential sale negotiations. Also be aware there are certain legal obligations in regards to taxation when selling a business. It would be best to check this out on the ATO website. They will also provide a very helpful downloadable checklist so that you can be sure you have completed all obligations.

Do all the above and you will have favourably positioned your business in the best possible way for a successful sale. If you are considering selling and need additional help to get the business into a better financial position then I am available to support the process, but be warned, once profits improve you might just decide to stay in business after all. ㄰

Next issue: “Buying the Salon or Spa You've Always Wanted”. © Copyright Caroline Nelson 2013

The new owner will also be purchasing the business name and the branding recognition this has achieved. A well-designed website and Facebook page are the key components that will not only increase

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Social media in all its forms is a valuable and essential tool for the 21st century business, particularly Facebook and Twitter in that it can keep existing clients and potential customers alerted and engaged with your promotions, competitions, beauty tips and interesting news. And it gets them referring their friends too.

If you offer services or use technology that is not available elsewhere in your trade area this will also increase value to the business.

6. High Visibility Marketing, including Web Design ㈵

current business activity, but will also be valuable intellectual assets.

The website design needs to include as a minimum features like appointment booking, selling of gift vouchers, a blog to education to keep customers interested, new customer incentives, and most importantly, Facebook sign-in.

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Caroline Nelson is a beauty industry expert with over 40 year experience who specializes in business coaching for salons & spas. Visit her at www.SalonSpaBusiness.com to see her full selection of Beauty Industry business tools and up-coming Business Development seminars.

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SCIENTIFIC NEWS

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RAISING VITAMIN C RDA MAY REDUCE AGEINGRELATED DISEASES

exposure to BPA should be curtailed."

In March, the Food and Drug Administration refused to ban BPA, but said that it would continue to carry out research on its effects on health.

The recommended dietary allowance (RDA) of vitamin C has traditionally been based on the prevention of the vitamin C deficiency disease, scurvy. A number of previously published studies have suggested that higher intakes of vitamin C may exert additional health benefits. Balz Frei, from Oregon State University (Oregon, USA), and colleagues urge that compelling evidence exists the RDA of vitamin C should be raised to 200 milligrams per day for adults, up from its current levels in the United States of 75 milligrams for women and 90 for men.

Andrew P Tharp, Maricel V Maffini, Patricia A Hunt, Catherine A VandeVoort, Carlos Sonnenschein, Ana M Soto. "Bisphenol A alters the development of the rhesus monkey mammary gland." Proc Natl Acad Sci U S A. Published ahead of print May 7, 2012.

Courtesy of The American Academy of AntiAging Medicine and The AustralAsian Academy of Anti-Ageing Medicine (www.a5m.net).

The researchers submit that it is appropriate to seek optimum levels that will saturate cells and tissues, pose no risk, and may have significant effects on public health at almost no expense – about a penny a day if taken as a dietary supplement. Writing that: “Vitamin C acts as a biological antioxidant that can lower elevated levels of oxidative stress, which also may contribute to chronic disease prevention,” the study authors submit that: "[an] optimum dietary intake of vitamin C [yields] potential health benefits with the least risk of inadequacy or adverse health effects.”

Balz Frei, Ines Birlouez-Aragon, Jens Lykkesfeldt.

“Authors' Perspective: What is the Optimum Intake of Vitamin C in Humans?” Critical Reviews in Food Science and Nutrition, Volume 52, Issue 9, September 2012, pages 815-829.

PLASTIC ADDITIVE BPA "IS A BREAST CARCINOGEN IN HUMANS"

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Results of a new study, this time in primates, have provided yet more evidence to suggest that the plastic additive bisphenol A (BPA) may play a role in the development of breast cancer in humans. The study was designed by Hunt and Tufts University School of Medicine researchers Ana Soto and Carlos Sonnenschein, and Catherine VandeVoort from the University of California at Davis. The researchers compared the structure of the mammary gland in newborn rhesus macaques exposed to BPA to the mammary glands

of macaques that had not been exposed to the chemical. In order to expose the baby macaques to BPA, their mothers were fed a piece of fruit containing a small amount of BPA each day during the gestational period corresponding to the human third trimester of pregnancy. This resulted in blood levels of BPA comparable to the average US citizen.

Results showed that the density of the mammary buds at birth was significantly increased in the BPA-exposed macaques.

Furthermore, the overall development of the mammary gland was more advanced in the BPA-exposed macaques than it was in the unexposed animals. "This study buttresses previous findings showing that foetal exposure to low xenoestrogen levels causes developmental alterations that in turn increase the risk of mammary cancer later in life," concluded Soto.

"Because BPA is chemically related to diethylstilbestrol, an oestrogen that increased the risk of breast cancer in both rodents and women exposed in the womb, the sum of all these findings strongly suggests that BPA is a breast carcinogen in humans and human

HOPE FOR NEW ANTIAGEING DRUG AFTER SCIENTISTS REVERSE MUSCLE WASTAGE IN OLD MICE Drugs could one day be used to reverse the muscle-wasting effects of ageing, new research suggests. Scientists have identified a key process responsible for muscle weakening in old age and used a chemical to block it in mouse studies. The findings could pave the way to body-building anti-ageing drugs that keep people strong and fit near the end of their lives.

A team of British and US researchers looked at the way stem cells in muscle repair damaged tissue by dividing and developing into numerous new muscle fibres. Strenuous

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activity, such as lifting weights, results in minor damage that triggers this response and builds up muscle. The end result is bulging biceps and rippling torsos.

But as people age, muscle loses its ability to regenerate itself, leading to limbs that are puny and weak. Studying old mice, the researchers found that the number of dormant stem cells in muscle reduces with age.

They traced the effect to excessively high levels of FGF2 (fibroblast growth factor 2) – a protein that stimulates cells to divide. In ageing muscle, the protein was continuously awakening the dormant stem cells for no reason. The supply of stem cells depleted over time, so not enough were available when they really were needed. As a result, the ability of muscle to regenerate was impaired. The scientists found that a drug that inhibits FGF2 prevented the decline of muscle stem cells.

Treating old mice with the drug, called SU5402, dramatically improved the ability of aged muscle tissue to repair itself.

SU5402 is purely manufactured for laboratories and not licensed for therapeutic use. But scientists hope the research, published in the latest online issue of the journal Nature, will lead to future treatments.

The finding opens up the possibility that one day we could develop treatments to make old muscles young again.

Senior researcher Dr Albert Basson, from King's College London, said: “Preventing or reversing muscle wasting in old age in humans is still a way off, but this study has for the first time revealed a process that could be responsible for age-related muscle wasting, which is extremely exciting.

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“The finding opens up the possibility that one day we could develop treatments to make old muscles young again. If we could do this, we may be able to enable people to live more “mobile, independent lives as they age.”

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Senior author Dr Andrew Brack, from Massachusetts General Hospital in the US, said: “Just as it is important for athletes to build recovery time into their training schedules, stem cells also need time to recuperate, but we found that aged stem cells recuperate less often.

“We were surprised to find that the events prior to muscle regeneration had a major influence on regenerative potential. That makes sense to us as humans, in terms of the need to sleep and to eat a healthy diet, but that the need to rest also plays out at the level of stem cells is quite remarkable.”

The scientists still do not know why levels of FGF2 increase with age, causing excessive activation of stem cells. “The next step is to analyse old muscle in humans to see if the same mechanism could be responsible for stem-cell depletion in human muscle fibres, leading to loss of mass and wastage,” said team member Kieran Jones, from King's College.

Ref: http://www.dailymail.co.uk/health/article2209231/Hope-new-anti-ageing-drugs-scientistsway-reverse-muscle-wastage-laterlife.html#ixzz28ydjJACf

REGULATOR OF SKIN AGEING Despite progress in regenerative medicine, with age the skin loses its properties in an irreversible manner. The AT I P - A v e n i r t e a m "Epidermal homeostasis and tumorigenesis", directed by Chloe Feral, an Inserm researcher at the French Cancer and Aging Research Institute (Inserm/CNRS/Universite Sophia Antipolis), has just defined the cellular and molecular mechanisms involved in maintaining skin cells and skin healing in advanced years. These mechanisms, described in vivo in mice, engage molecule CD98hc, which is involved in epidermis renewal and could be an indicator of the skin's capacity for regeneration.

The results were published in the Journal of Experimental Medicine review.

The epidermis, the surface layer of the skin, is mainly composed of keratinocytes cells, which, in humans, are renewed continuously over a 21-day cycle. These cells are located on a membrane made up of components from the extracellular matrix that provides the junction

with the dermis, the deep layer of the skin.

The epidermis is renewed by cell proliferation and differentiation that maintains the balance of adult tissues. This balance, known as homeostasis, is essential for tissues to function correctly and any alterations to it are responsible for the physical changes associated with ageing: sagging skin due to reduced skin cell proliferation, wound healing defects, loss of hair, etc.

The ATIP-Avenir team studied the numerous cellular factors involved in maintaining this balance. Particular attention was paid to CD98hc, a molecule known for its interaction with receptors that cause skin ageing. With age, the activity of the transporter CD98hc and integrins (the receptors connected to the components in the extra cellular matrix) is disturbed. However, until now the mechanisms involved had never been identified.

Through their w o r k , t h e researchers showed in vivo in m i c e t h a t removing the gene CD98hc (coding gene for transporter CD98hc) disturbs skin balance and the healing process. By modifying cell proliferation and migration, removing this gene also causes a fault in the hair follicle cycle. The researchers have deciphered all the complex mechanisms associated with CD98hc, particularly integrin deregulation caused by this missing molecule in vivo. They confirmed what was described in vitro: the amino acid transporter CD98hc modules the integrin signal, which is essential for skin renewal. As such, CD98hc actively participates in skin renewal through the efficient and widespread recruitment of skin cells when needed (healing a wound, for example).

“CD98hc appears to be necessary for rapid and effective skin renewal. Its reduced expression, observed in vivo in elderly mice, confirms its role in maintaining tissues, the

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hair follicle cycle and healing, which are disturbed with age," states Chloé Féral. "The status of carrier CD98hc in vivo could be an indicator of the skin's capacity to renew itself," she concludes.

Article adapted by Medical News Today from original press release.

Photos showed notable improvements after three months on both sides of the face.

Physicians assessed mean moderate improvement with no significant differences between treatments (MRF device-treated side, 2.33 vs. CO2 FS-treated side, 1.9; P>.05). Most patients were satisfied to slightly satisfied with treatment (80% MRF treated vs. 75% CO2 FS treated), with no significant difference in overall satisfaction between methods (P=.435).

Patients reported the mean duration of erythema lasted longer on the CO2 FStreated side (11.75 days vs. 2.35; P<.001).

No noticeable adverse events were observed.

MICRONEEDLE RADIOFREQUENCY DEVICE EFFECTIVELY TREATED ACNE WITH LESS RECOVERY TIME A fractional microneedle radiofrequency device and a CO2 fractional laser system performed equally well in treating facial acne vulgaris, while microneedle treatment reduced recovery time, according to study results.

Researchers in South Korea studied 20 East Asian patients with acne valgaris (aged 15 to 28 years; 11 males) with Fitzpatrick skin types III or IV. On one side of each patient's face, two passes of a CO2 fractional laser system (CO2 FS) with a pulse energy setting of 80 mJ and a density of 100 spots/cm2 were used. On the other side, two passes of a microneedle radiofrequency (MRF) device with an intensity of 8, a density of 25 microthermal zones/cm2 and a depth of 1.5 mm to 2.5 mm were used. ㄰ 㤵 㜵

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Patients were photographed at baseline, before each treatment and three months following treatments, and were not permitted to use oral or topical acne treatments during follow-up. Two masked dermatologists performed clinical assessments by comparing baseline and three-month visit photographs, while patients scored overall satisfaction and described erythema duration for each side of their faces.

MRF “has a significant effect on rejuvenation of the skin, including acne,” researcher Ju Hee Lee, MD, PhD, professor in the department of dermatology at Yonsei University College of Medicine in Seoul, told Healio.com. “MRF tips go deeper into the dermis but [create] lesser side-effects because MRF has lesser damage on the epidermis.” http://www.healio.com/dermatology/acne/news

ECZEMA LINKED TO GUT BACTERIA IN KIDS Kids who have eczema have a more diverse set of bacteria in their guts than kids who do not have the condition.

The finding came from new research conducted by a team of experts from the University of Turku, Finland, and was published in BioMed Central's open access journal BMC Microbiology.

The scientists discovered that the types of bacteria existing in the guts of the children with eczema were more typical of adult gut microbes than for infants without eczema.

Eczema is described as a persistent inflammation of the epidermis; it can also be referred to as atopic dermatitis, or atopic eczema (the most common form of eczema).

A recent study found that kids are more likely to develop eczema if they eat fast food three or more times a week.

People affected by the condition may develop itchy, reddened, cracked and dry skin.

Previous research demonstrated that giving

baths of diluted bleach regularly to children with chronic, severe eczema helps reduce the severity of the condition in cases with secondary bacterial infection.

For the purpose of the study, the team of researchers observed children with eczema and those without eczema when they were six and 18 months old. The experts wanted to compare their gut bacteria. Results showed that all the infants had the same types of bacteria at six months. However, at 18 months, the toddlers with eczema had more of a type of bacteria, known as Clostridium clusters IV and XIVa, which is usually linked to adults.

The kids who were not affected by eczema had higher quantities of Bacteroidetes.

Lotta Nylund, MSc, from University of Turku, Finland, explained: "The composition of bacteria in a child's gut depends on its environment and the food it eats. You would expect that as a child's diet changes so will the bacteria present. The number of bifidobacteria naturally falls with age, and in total we found 21 groups of bacteria that changed in this time period. However, it is the early change towards adult-type bacteria that seems to be a risk factor for eczema." http://www.medicalnewstoday.com/articles/255235. php

MASSIVE LONGEVITY BOOST FROM LITHIUM Nematode worms treated with lithium showed an astonishing 46 per cent increase in lifespan, raising the tantalising question of whether humans taking the bipolar treatment are also taking an anti-ageing medication.

Conducted by the Buck Institute, the study results were published in the Journal of Biological Chemistry.

Lithium has been used to treat mood disorders for decades, but the underlying mechanism of its therapeutic action is not understood. In humans, lithium's therapeutic range is very limited and the drug has serious side-effects.

Study leader Gordon J. Lithgow said the research showed that longevity was increased in the worms when the lithium "turned down" the activity of a gene that modulates the basic structure of chromosomes.

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Lithgow contends that lithium impacts many genes. "Understanding the genetic impact of lithium may allow us to engineer a therapy that has the same lifespan-extending benefits," he explained. "One of the larger questions is whether the lifespan-extending benefits of the drug are directly related to the fact that lithium protects neurons."

The process of normal ageing in humans is intrinsically linked to the onset of neurodegenerative disease. However, the cellular changes and events due to ageing that impact neurodegeneration are not yet understood, and compounds such as lithium could provide insights into the biomedical link between ageing and disease. Lithgow and his lab are now surveying tens of thousands of compounds for effects on ageing.

Related articles: Epilepsy Drugs Slow Aging Anti-Aging Finding Turned On Its Head

NO LIMIT TO LIFE EXPECTANCY The lifespans of people in developed nations are increasing at a remarkably constant rate, suggesting that there is no natural limit on life expectancy, said a Duke University researcher in an article in the May 10, 2002, Science. Data analysed by the scientists indicate that the maximum human lifespan will reach 100 in about six decades, which policymakers should consider as they make critical resource decisions affecting older adults. Study coauthors are Duke University research scientist James W. Vaupel, director of the program on Population, Policy and Ageing at Duke's Terry Sanford Institute of Public Policy; and Jim Oeppen with the Cambridge Group for the History of Population and Social Structure, Cambridge University, England. ㄰ 㤵 㜵

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In their study, Vaupel and Oeppen reviewed longevity data from developed countries, including Australia, Iceland, Japan, the Netherlands, Norway, Sweden, Switzerland and the U.S. They found that life expectancy in such countries is steadily increasing by three months a year, per year.

"The key issue for policymakers to understand from our study is that there

appears to be no finite limit to life expectancy," says Vaupel. "This has major implications for social issues such as budget allocations for the old and very old, and projections used to determine future pension, healthcare and other needs."

Vaupel is also head of the Laboratory of Survival and Longevity at the Max Planck Institute for Demographic Research in Germany. The study was funded by the Max Planck Institute and the U.S. National Institute on Ageing.

World life expectancy more than doubled over the past two centuries, from roughly 25 years to about 65 for men and 70 for women.

Despite evidence to the contrary, "students of mortality blindly clung to the ancient notion that under favorable conditions the typical human has a characteristic lifespan," the authors noted in the article.

"Experts have been unable to imagine a lifespan that could rise further", leading to "the notion of a fixed lifespan".

Such a notion, the study noted, "is distorting public and private decision-making".

The researchers emphasise they are not saying there is no limit to the rise in life expectancy. "There may or may not be some limit at some advanced age – it is impossible to tell given current empirical data and theoretical knowledge," added Vaupel. "What is clear is that there is no limit that we are about to bump up against. Among nations today, the longest expectation of life – almost 85 years – is enjoyed by Japanese women," the article noted. The four-decade increase in life expectancy in 16 decades is so extraordinarily linear that it "may be the most remarkable regularity of mass endeavor ever observed", the study notes. If the trend continues as it has, "record life expectancy will reach 100 in about six decades". While this will never lead to immortality, "It is striking that centenarians may become

commonplace within the lifetimes of people alive today," the authors add.

MRI SCANS REVEAL FRUCTOSE'S EFFECTS ON BRAIN'S APPETITE REGULATORS Scans of the human brain after ingesting fructose have provided insights into how the substance affects brain chemistry and increases food-seeking behavior and food intake. The new work, published in JAMA, appears to confirm the much discussed association between fructose intake and bulging waistlines.

Conducted by Kathleen A. Page of Yale University, the study set out to explore possible linkages between fructose consumption and weight gain. The study included 20 healthy adult volunteers who underwent two magnetic resonance imaging sessions in conjunction with either fructose or glucose drink ingestion. The primary outcome measure for the study was the relative changes in hypothalamic regional cerebral blood flow after ingestion.

The scans indicated that ingestion of glucose (sugar), but not fructose (corn syrup), reduced cerebral blood flow and activity in the brain regions that regulate appetite; and ingestion of glucose but not fructose produced increased ratings of satiety and fullness.

Specifically, the researchers found that there was a significantly greater reduction in hypothalamic cerebral blood flow after glucose versus fructose ingestion. "Glucose but not fructose ingestion reduced the activation of the hypothalamus, insula, and striatum – brain regions that regulate appetite, motivation and reward processing; glucose ingestion also increased functional connections between the hypothalamicstriatal network and increased satiety," explained Page.

The findings lend support to the notion that when the human brain is exposed to fructose, neurobiological pathways involved in appetite regulation are modulated, thereby promoting increased food seeking and food intake.

Source: Virginia Tech Carilion Research Institute

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When you want the perfect fit you need an

INDUSTRY SPECIALIST INSURER Take the five point business check-up for busy salons...

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Age Defence SPF 50+ Protects against dehydration and premature ageing

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Client recommendations: For external use only. Avoid contact with eyes. Avoid prolonged exposure to the sun and wear protective clothing such as hats and eyewear when exposed to the sun. Do not use on broken, damaged or diseased skin.

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Experts in skin | 02 9460 7559 | skinstitut.com APJ 103

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TIME MANAGEMENT THAT YIELDS GROWTH

By Tina Viney If you cringe at the thought of reading this article chances are you feel bad that you aren't able to fit everything you want in your day. Take heart, any busy person trying to juggle work and life or family responsibilities is up against this issue. “How am I going to fit it all in a day?”

If you're like me, chances are you have either taken some time management classes in your life or you purchased books on the subject. I have done both and found much of the information I learnt was too theoretical. At the end of the day I had to find a way to make it work for me, so here are some practical tips that have helped me and I trust will help you.

SPRING-CLEANING

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Start with a good spring-cleaning. Facing the beginning of a new year is the best time to do this. After all, if you keep adding to the pile things will get lost and you will not get the benefit of them. One of the greatest motivating thoughts to help you with spring-cleaning is “I am making room for change, growth, fresh ideas or a new look”. This is good advice whether you are looking at your wardrobe, cupboards or the mounting paper trail on your desk. When doing spring-cleaning this is the time to think logically and not emotionally. If necessary, be ruthless, “black and white” it is either a yes or a no, not a maybe, otherwise you will spend all your day assessing and eventually find a reason why you still need to hold on to everything on your pile. Look at what needs to go because it has served its purpose, or simply because it is outdated information and it's time to make room for new ideas and something fresh.

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Once you have simplified your workspace it's time to put some structure on how you are going to prioritise and manage your time so

that at the end of the year you can look back and see that it was a productive one and you achieved most of the goals that you have set and are important to you.

There are only three ways to spend time: thoughts, conversations and actions. Regardless of the type of business you own, your work will be composed of those three items.

No matter how organised you are, in a busy day you will often encounter interruptions that will pull you in another direction and away from what you had planned to do with your day. While you can't totally eliminate interruptions, you do get a say on how much time you will spend on them and how much time you will spend on the thoughts, conversations and actions that will lead you to success.

HERE ARE SOME OF MY FAVOURITE TIMEMANAGEMENT STRATEGIES THAT MAY HELP YOU GREATLY INCREASE YOUR PRODUCTIVITY:

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Evaluation: Review some of your activities in the past and evaluate how much time you needed to complete them to your satisfaction. Then look at how much time you allocated or “thought you needed” to get the job done. Optimism can sometimes make us believe we can do anything in a day and we assign an unrealistic timeframe to these tasks only to find that at the end of the day we did not manage to complete the task. It is particularly important that you learn to assign how much time you need to complete a task correctly as this will substantially minimise your stress levels and contribute to you actually achieving what you are setting out to do.

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APJ 104

Incidentally, this is particularly important when you are managing other people. If Any activity or conversation that's important to your success you don't allocate a realistic timeframe should have a time assigned to it. for the task to be completed you are setting up the other person for failure.

When determining timeframes for other people you also need to will sabotage your productivity. Get plenty of sleep, eat a healthy take into account the skills set and expertise in being able to diet and exercise regularly. A healthy lifestyle can improve your complete the task in a given time. Don't expect them to be as fast, focus and concentration, which will help improve your efficiency efficient or able to multitask as you if you have greater experience so that you can complete your work in less time. in those tasks than they do. Evaluate and assess appropriate time for both yourself and others based on skill and experience. ! Avoid interactive addictions: Avoid email, Facebook and

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Important tasks: Any activity or conversation that's important to your success should have a time assigned to it. To-do lists get longer and longer to the point where they're unworkable. Schedule appointments with yourself and create time blocks for highpriority conversations and actions. Schedule when they will begin and end. Have the discipline to keep these appointments.

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mobile phone addiction. We've all done it. “I'm just going to check this 'real quick', and an hour later you're still responding to Facebook, email messages or text messages. Schedule a time to answer emails and to check social media.

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The Pareto principle: Most of us know this rule, also known as

Allow for interruptions: Don't set tight timeframes that do not allow for any contingencies. Life isn't always predictable, things happen that were not in the plan so be careful not to over-commit and under-deliver. Realise that interruptions do happen and plan accordingly. This is one of the key tips on time management.

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Start your day with a plan: Take the first 30 minutes of every day to plan your day. Or if you're not a morning person do it right before you go to bed. The most important time of your day is the time you schedule to schedule time.

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Do not disturb: There are some things that just can't be done with interruptions. Assess those tasks and make sure you inform others that you will not be available for the next hour or so as you have a priority issue that you need to focus on.

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Take care of yourself: If you run yourself into the ground you

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Delegate: Take a look at your list and consider what you could pass on to someone else. This is one of the most powerful tips on time management. If your hourly rate is worth $50 and you can pay someone $25 an hour to do something, you actually lose money by doing the task yourself. To focus on what will bring the business more money you will need to consider someone else to do the routine tasks to free you the time to do what is most productive and profitable.

the 80/20 rule that we apply to business. Spend 80 per cent of your time on the top 20 per cent of your best clients. This also applies to other tasks. Plan to spend 50 to 80 per cent of your time engaged in the activities and conversations that produce most of your results.

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Reassess: When creating a new to-do list reassess time allocation based on past experience. This is important. Was the time you set aside for these tasks in the past realistic in order for them to be completed? Are some routine tasks superfluous and can become more concise or eliminated? Are we doing tasks out of habit rather than reason? This reminds me about the woman who always trimmed her roast on the two sides before putting it in the oven. When teaching her daughter to cook she was asked why she actually did that. “I don't know, I think it's so that it can cook better – it was what my mother always did,” she responded.

However, the daughter decided to investigate. She found out that her grandmother trimmed the roast on both sides because she didn't have a pan that was big enough.

When managing your time it is important that you don't get overwhelmed. Look at this list and implement some of these strategies to see what will work for you. Improvement is a progressive thing. Let life be better the second time around!

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APJ 105

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The constant growing epidemic of melanomas and skin cancers in Australia is a growing concern.

Dermatologists and aesthetic therapists regularly view on their clients or patients the presence of skin cancer, or changing skin lesions that can lead to skin cancer.

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Education is paramount as the best precautionary measure, however, far too many are either forgetful or distracted from following through with the appropriate recommendations.

Reseach also confirms that many people are not using sunscreen with outdoor activities if they are not specifically sunbathing.

Another factor to high incidences of skin cancer is that often protective cream that many choose to use is based on skin condition, and not on the increasing power of the UVB radiation (30 minutes in the sun on one day may only equate to 20 minutes protection in the next day), exposing the person to 10 minutes of harmful radiation that is not realised until it is too late.

If only there was a way that people could be warned when their sun exposure becomes unsafe or dangerous?

Seeing the need for sun monitoring, a special scientific instrument was conceived by Tony Pearson, managing director of Perth company Healthtronics Sunsafe Pty Ltd, in association with a group of dermatologists and electronic engineers.

Healthtronics Sunsafe specialises in creating solutions to help protect people from the ravages of the sun. The new device took 25 years in the making and is called U-B-Safe 1.

HELLO SUNSHINE Revolutionary Australian device warns of sun safety levels

HOW U-B-Safe 1 CAME ABOUT ㄰ 㤵 㜵

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In the summer of 1985 Tony Pearson received extensive sunburn to his shoulders and legs, which prevented him from wearing certain clothes and shoes over the burnt areas for many painful days. It was obvious that many people with Caucasian skin were similarly affected because they were not aware of the exact ultra-violet radiation safe exposure levels for their skin type.

Thus Mr Pearson undertook to produce a portable ultraviolet dose monitor to prevent cancer and skin pre-ageing that would alarm the wearer when they reach the end of safe sun exposure for their skin type and had enough sun for their dose of vitamin D.

The 'U-B-Safe 1' is the only device in the world that provides monitoring for both UVB and vitamin D. It is solar powered and small enough to be pinned on to a hat. Once sufficient exposure to UVB rays is reached the device emits a constant tune alerting the wearer.

While UVB is the type of ultraviolet ray that causes sunburn and permanent skin damage, including cancer, it is also necessary as a source of vitamin D. The U-B-Safe 1 therefore provides an accurate and reliable measure of exposure to UVB. Although fair-skinned individuals are at the highest risk for skin cancer, exposure to UV-B increases the risk of skin cancer for all skin types. The U-B-Safe 1 can be set to different types of skin, therefore measuring the appropriate level of UVB exposure in a very precise manner.

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APJ 106

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MULTIPLE BENEFITS Professor Rebecca S Mason, Head of Physiology and Deputy Director of the Bosch Institute for Medical Research, University of Sydney, said that such a device could have multiple benefits. “We know that although most Australians are aware of the importance of protection against the sun's harmful rays, this does not always translate into consistent practice. And yet it's not advisable to stay out of the sun completely because the sun is the major source of Vitamin D for most people. Vitamin D is important for optimal bone and muscle function and may protect against a range of diseases. A device that helps people maintain a balance between too little and too much sun exposure is likely to be very useful,” Prof Mason said.

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Has a specially angled case so it is always in the sun like our skin Is designed to be pinned to a hat, so it is never shaded Has a musical alarm so you don't have to keep checking a display Monitors unprotected skin Has a special memory of your past sun exposure to compute today's dose accurately Is designed small and tough enough to be used by all, from children and babies to outdoor industry workers.

The U-B-Safe 1 is also available at wholesale rates for professional recommendation and sales through skin clinics and salons.

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For further information please contact Ph: 08 9470 5677.

While this information would be important for all Australians who are exposed to the sun, it may be particularly useful for people who have previously had skin cancer and need to be extra-cautious about sun exposure, and for older Australians who need to increase their Vitamin D levels without reaching harmful levels of exposure.

The U-B-Safe 1 does not replace the need for a broad-spectrum UVA UVB sunscreen or other protective measures. Unlike sunscreen though, the settings of U-B-Safe 1 provide a clear guidance on sufficient exposure rather than relying on guesswork (i.e. when to reapply sunscreen). Heat or high temperatures are not evidence of UV levels, and exposure can be dangerous even on cloudy days.

REFERENCES AIHW and AACR. Cancer in Australia: an overview 2010. AIHW cat no CAN 56. Canberra: AIHW 2010 Australian Cancer Council, www.cancer.org.au, accessed 1 November 2012 Australian Bureau of Meteorology, www.bom.gov.au, accessed 1 November 2012

DERMAL ALERT

SKIN CANCER IN AUSTRALIA

A wearable miniature early warning UV device to help your clients, or patients reduce the risk of sunburn, skin cancer and early wrinkling.

Despite the level of education promoting essential and safe sun protective recommendations the statistics of skin cancer in Australia are still alarmingly high. This is why continued education, particularly from skincare therapists, is paramount.

ABOUT ULTRAVIOLET RAYS As there are many misconceptions about how UV rays impact the skin, here is a brief summary of the facts:

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UVA penetrates deep into the skin causing damage like wrinkles and discolouration.

Exposure to UVB causes sunburn. Sunburn, whether severe or mild, can cause permanent skin damage, skin cancer, eye damage, and hastens skin ageing. UVB exposure can also suppress the human immune system.

Skin cancer is a disease of the body's skin cells caused mainly by overexposure to UV radiation.

Heat or high temperatures are not an indication of UV levels.

Factors such as latitude, ozone, cloud, reflection from surfaces, time of year and time of day determine UV levels.

UV levels vary in intensity and level across Australia on any given day.

When the UV Index reaches 3, sensible sun protection is warranted and is unlikely to put people at risk of Vitamin D deficiency.

ABOUT THE U-B-SAFE 1 ㄰ 㤵 㜵

The U-B-Safe 1 is a scientific UV monitor that has been researched, designed and refined over many years by a team of Australian dermatologists and electronic engineers. The monitor has won numerous Australian design awards. A manual is provided that indicates how to select your skin type, out of five choices. The U-BSafe 1 computes how much of the UVB rays you should be exposed to each day and plays a tune when you have had enough exposure.

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The U-B-Safe 1 is the only UVB alarm monitor which:

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Runs on solar power – no batteries required Is water resistant

U-B-Safe1 is a world first Australian designed device that provides an alert when you've had sufficient exposure to harmful UV rays from the sun. It can also highlight when you've had enough sun for your daily dose of vitamin D, taking into account your individual skin type, previous exposure and even unprotected skin. ! !

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Developed in conjunction with leading dermatologists Can be set to specific skin type, providing an accurate dose of UVB exposure Early warning system to help prevent skin damage Monitors exposed skin at all times Ideal for those who have had skin cancer Solar powered, no batteries required Small enough to be worn on a hat ㄰

Award winning device:

]Body+Soul Magazine Award 2012 ]ABC TV New Inventors Award 2005 ]People's Choice Award 2005 ]Australian Design Award 1989

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U-B-Safe1 is suitable for adults, children and babies and retails for $68. For trade enquiries phone 08 9470 5677.

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APJ 107

skinscience ㄰

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Assisting collagen structural integrity through detoxification

By Lynette Rouse

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When working on the skin there are several procedures available to us that can change the state of collagen in the dermis, which ultimately result in a total cosmetic improvement. As far as skin health and wellness are concerned there are natural options that can enhance outcomes through both new and existing treatment practices that can improve structural integrity, as well as treatment results.

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Collagen, as we know, is the chief structural protein of the skin and body and has many unique biological characteristics.

The biochemistry of collagen is simple protein made up of amino-acids.

Amino acids are built from carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, which make up approximately 30% of the protein within the body.

Assembled into fibrous aggregates surrounding cells, collagen proteins are made up of three polypeptide chains with the characteristic repetitive amino acid sequence Gly-X-Y.Collagen, which confers thermal stability, mechanical strength and can interact with other molecules, depending on the way the collagen fibres aggregate. As we are aware, collagen also has many other functions including cell adhesion and migration. We can observe collagen as long fibrils called fibrillar collagen and fibril-associated proteins.

In reviewing the chemistry of collagen we understand that it comprises of oxygen, nitrogen, hydrogen protons and carbon.

Oxygen, nitrogen carbon and hydrogen protons make up 96.3% of the human body – approximately 1% phosphorus in bone and calcium,

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APJ 108

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that has a double plus charge, which makes up 98%, leaving 2% that is made up of electrolytes. This is why minerals in the skin are important. Electrolytes that we obtain from food must be broken down into the right substances for the body to use them. Another important nutrient is Vitamin D, which helps bind the hydrogen protons with the minerals to keep it healthy.

insulin levels rise, whether from a poor diet or from stress, we experience an increase in inflammatory chemicals at a cellular level.

This causes inflammatory diseases such as acne to worsen dramatically. Cortisol and other adrenal steroids can act as androgens (male hormones) and stimulate the sebaceous glands, resulting in a flare-up of acne.

The components that hold collagen together include fat, water, glucose and acetoacetic acid. An imbalance of these often cause changes that can lead to free radical damage and toxicity.

Natural sugars found in fruits and vegetables should be our only source of sugar. These foods are often high in anti-inflammatory antioxidants and help stabilise blood sugar, and nutrients that promote beautiful skin and a healthy body.

When you think about the skin we know that in general our cells divide every day and make their way through water to the surface of the skin within an acid mantle. At this level the skin is acidic and this state is held together by hydrogen protons. In traditional Chinese medicine this is referred to as Wie Qui. This Wie Qui is hydrogen protons.

In my previous articles volumes in 14 and 15 of APJ I presented information on the significance of various cells and molecular frequencies, technological frequencies and of imaging. The imaging light, or what is also known as the aura, is actually the hydrogen protons around the cell, which is acidic.

HOW TOXINS AND FREE RADICALS IMPAIR HYDROGEN PROTON MOLECULES The combination of carbon and hydrogen protons is what holds the cell fibres together because they are positively charged due to hydrogen losing one proton.

It is important to understand that the long-term effects of toxicity contribute to impaired collagen structures and this is an important consideration when wanting to achieve improved skin tone through our anti-ageing protocols. This toxicity can be naturally occurring, environmental, or through lifestyle habits.

An example of environmental factors that contribute to toxicity can be bacterial exotoxins or endotoxins that enter the cell. For example an alpha toxin may be staphylococcus aureus alpha toxin. Alpha-toxin, the major cytotoxic agent elaborated by Staphylococcus aureus, was the first bacterial exotoxin to be identified as a pore former. The protein is secreted as a single-chain, water-soluble molecule. This is a membrane-disrupting toxin that causes tissue damage. The most common bacterial toxin is LPS (also known as endotoxin). LPS increases MMP-1 expression. MMP-1 degrades collagen and collagen breakdown leads to wrinkles. Sun exposure and tobacco smoking also increase MMP-1 expression. Kappa toxin (collagenase) breaks down supportive connective tissue. It is also necrotising (or contributes to cell death).

Understanding and dealing with toxicity in the skin and body is important to collagen integrity because at a cellular level toxins interact with the hydrogen protons, altering their frequency and contributing to cell degradation.

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Another example is glycation. This state also contributes to the alteration of molecular structure of cells, resulting in collagen degradation. Glycation occurs due to the sugar molecule altering the skin cell's molecular structure. It does this by attaching itself to the protein structure, resulting in inflammation and producing enzymes that break down collagen. The end result is wrinkled and sagging skin and the striated patterns due to cross-linking in collagen that makes the skin stiff and inflexible, which is the characteristic sign of glycation.

Sugar consumption can also affect acne. When our blood sugar and

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SIMPLE DETOXIFICATION CONSIDERATIONS So now we have identified that toxicity is the enemy of collagen integrity, what areas should we consider in assisting the body to minimise a toxic overload?

A clean bowel: Compacted faeces along the gastrointestinal walls make it easier for parasites, such as hookworms to attach to the lining of the intestines. In time, these parasites will become a drain upon your body and may weaken the immune system's ability to repel bacteria. Candidasis, essentially an out-of-control yeast infection within the gastrointestinal tract causing related skin concerns, symptoms of fatigue and abdominal pain. Septicemia in cases of protracted faecal impaction and the resulting inability to pass stool, bacteria and toxins will be absorbed into your bloodstream.

Breathing Exercises: According to traditional Chinese medicine the spleen is the major organ that stores energy to nourish the lungs, large bowel and the skin, which is nourished by oxygen. Slow deep breathing not only relieves stress, but also contributes to improved oxygen to the skin. As our modern world continues to exposes us to new toxins and poisons – both naturally occurring and man-made, our bodies will increasingly need efficient and effective detoxification.

Previous articles have highlighted pathways for aesthetic practitioners to implement detoxification procedures into clinics from partnering with natural medicine and anti-ageing wellness physicians in order to provide an in-house detoxification program, or to become a stockist of a detoxification product.

However, in most cases simple, healthy detoxification is based on two principles:

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Provide a steady supply of the raw nutritious foods, water and other fluids Create living and working conditions that enhance the body's ability to manage toxins.

However, with the advancement of science into quantum detoxification technologies, it is now possible to passively detoxify every cell in the body. Detoxification supports a holistic approach to skin health and anti-ageing wellness. There is now a substantial body of research that clearly identifies the role of toxins in the breakdown and degeneration of collagen. It is therefore conclusive that a cleaner system at a cellular level will ultimately enhance the skin's ability to regenerate itself and optimise its health, vitality and ultimately support better anti-ageing results in skin improvement.

Future research and referencing relating to toxicity and skin health can be sourced through Pub Med, Dr P. T. Pugliese, Bio chemist B. Morley; Vital Balance and various internet resources.

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APJ 109

legalmatters ㄰

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Raising the Bar Australian Trade Mark Law

By Sophie Morelli Pointon Partner Lawyers The Intellectual Property Laws Amendment (Raising the Bar) Act ('the Act') will introduce significant changes to intellectual property law. Most amendments introduced under the Act will come into effect on 15 April 2013.

Notice of Opposition, which will be difficult to amend once submitted;

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Trade mark applicants must file a notice stating their intent to defend their mark against the opposition within one month of being served with the opponents' statement of grounds and particulars. Failure to do so may result in the application lapsing.

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An extension of time to file a statement of grounds of particulars or intention to defend the opposition may be granted only on the basis of an error or omission, and/or circumstances beyond the control of the party.

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The opposition period in which to oppose a trade mark application will be reduced from two months (currently three months) from the date of advertisement of the trade mark in the Official Journal of Trade Marks.

The main changes to the Trade Marks Act are summarised below:

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Simplification of opposition form.

OPPOSITION REFORM

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Increased power of the Registrar to dismiss an opposition to a nonuse application in prescribed circumstances, including where an opponent fails to file a statement of grounds and particulars.

While the majority of the amendments in the Act amend the Patent Act 1990, it also reforms the Trade Marks Act 1995, Copyright Act 1968, Designs Act 2003 and Plant Breeder's Rights Act 1994.

The purpose of the reforms is to improve processes, reduce delays and create consistency between Australia intellectual property law and other major intellectual property jurisdictions. The changes are intended to promote a more reliable intellectual property enforcement system, including increased penalties for infringement of intellectual property rights.

AMENDMENTS TO TRADE MARK LAW

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In an attempt to reduce the delays associated with the opposition of trade mark applications and removal of trade marks for non-use, numerous changes have been made to the opposition process.

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Amendments include: 㜵

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The removal of the requirement for the opponent to serve a Notice of Opposition on the trade mark applicant. The Trade Marks Office will send a copy of the Notice to the applicant

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An opponent to the registration of a trade mark will be required to file a statement of grounds and particulars on which they intend to oppose the trade mark application within one month of filing a

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CUSTOMS REGIME The Act will simplify the Customs seizure processes. Where a trade mark or copyright owner have a Notice of Objection in place with the Australian Customs Service, Customs may seize goods suspected of infringing intellectual property rights before they come into the Australian market.

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Under the Act, where Customs seize allegedly infringing goods subject of a Notice of Objection, the Australian Customs Service may

APJ 110

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provide details about the imported goods and other relevant information about the Australian importer and foreign supplier.

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The Act will allow Customs to permit a trade mark owner to inspect or remove multiple samples of the goods in order to allow the parties to make a more accurate determination of whether the consignment contains infringing goods.

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The amendments shift the onus on to the importer to make a claim to Customs to release the seized goods. The claim must specify contact information that would enable a trade mark owner to enforce their rights and contact the designated owner. If a claim by the importer or designated owner is not made within the specified time, the goods subject of the seizure will be forfeited to the Commonwealth.

An equivalent provision will apply in respect of the Copyright Act seizure regime.

PRESUMPTION OF REGISTRABILITY Where the Registrar of trade marks is equally uncertain about whether a mark is or is not capable of distinguishing the applicant's good and services, the Registrar must resolve the doubt in favour of the applicant. This amendment may ultimately result in making it easier for applicants to have their application accepted by the Registrar unless there are grounds to reject it, however, this is not certain given the Registrar must still determine whether a mark is inherently adapted to distinguish the applicant's goods and/or services.

INCREASED PENALTIES AND DAMAGES Trade mark owners will have the opportunity under the Act to obtain additional (punitive) damages for trade mark infringement in certain circumstances, including where there is a flagrant infringement, the conduct of the infringer or where there may be a need to deter similar infringers.

Summary offences have been added to the Trade Marks Act, corresponding with the indictable offences. The introduction of these offences will provide a two-tiered system of offence provisions.

Penalties in respect of indictable and summary trade mark offences will also be increased under the Act. The maximum penalties for indictable trade mark offences have been increased to five years imprisonment or fines up to $60,500 for an individual or $60,500 for a corporation, or both.

JURISDICTION – FEDERAL MAGISTRATES COURT

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The Act will extend jurisdiction to allow the Federal Magistrates Court to hear and decide trade mark matters, including appeals against decisions made by the Registrar regarding rejection, amendment, removal for non-use and trade mark infringement proceedings.

The Federal Court of Australia currently hears such appeals and proceedings. The expense of instituting these actions will be less costly in the Federal Magistrates Court and may also allow proceedings to be resolved sooner.

CONCLUSION The amendments to Australian intellectual property laws will allow for a more simplified intellectual property

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POINTON PARTNERS LAWYERS

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If you have any queries in relation to the above article or any other legal issues affecting your business please feel free to contact Michael Bishop or Amelita Hensman of Pointon Partners.

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APAN members receive an initial free consultation in relation to any legal queries or issues they may have.

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Pointon Partners is a client-focused commercial law firm based in Melbourne, but which services clients nationally. Pointon Partners is able to assist with: ! advice on obligations under the Fair Work Act & the Hair and Beauty Industry Award 2010; ! preparation of employment contracts; ! advice on termination of staff & defending of unfair dismissal claims; ! registration of trademarks; ! trademark disputes; ! preparation or review of commercial leases; ! negotiation & preparation of commercial contracts; ! franchising; ! wills and estate planning; and ! buying or selling a business.

Michael Bishop or Amelita Hensman of Pointon Partners can be contacted on (03) 9614 7707 or by email mjb@pointonpartners.com.au or ah@pointonpartners.com.au system. Strengthened penalties and customs regime will provide additional protection for trade mark and copyright owners. In order to protect your trade mark and brand from the importation of counterfeit or pirated goods and trade mark infringement, you should consider availing yourself to the customs seizure regime and trade mark registration.

If you would like to know more about the reforms coming into effect, or intellectual property generally, then please contact Pointon Partners Lawyers on (03) 9614 7707.

JYUNKA M + No Empty Promises

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JYUNKA AUSTRALIA Phone 03 9821 0355 email: enquiry@jyunka.com.au, www.jyunka.com.au

APJ 111

businessprofile ㄰

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BIOELEMENTS – launches amazing new packages and incentives Adding a new product range to your business takes thought and consideration, but also leads to excitement, results and staff and client satisfaction. We'll give you 10 good reasons to take advantage of our new incentives today!

The team at Absolute Spa are committed to our stockist partners, and offer only the best salon products. We realise that adding a new product range to your business takes thought and much consideration and that is why we consider ourselves partners. It is in our best interests to support you to succeed in your results and business growth. Adding a new skincare range will not only allow you to offer better results to your clients it also contributes to staff enthusiasm and momentum with something new to work with and offer your clients. Demonstrating that your business is always in touch with progress by introducing new launches will lead to business improvement, a happy team and therefore client retention and satisfaction.

Here are some considerations why Bioelements can give you the competitive advantage.

With the arrival of 2013, we have added some amazing new options to get started with Bioelements. We have launched some new 2013 opening order packages – one of them is amazing with free Professional Use Only stock, and free fully stocked tester unit PLUS some payment plan options as well.

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Join our Bioelements happy family.

For more information on becoming a stockist partner, please don't hesitate to contact us today!

Telephone: 1300 262 275 Email: info@absolutespa.com.au

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ABSOLUTE SPA – PROUDLY REPRESENTING:

Bioelements Skincare, Mirabella Beauty, Pure Inventions, Charisma Nail Innovations

10 GOOD REASONS TO ADD BIOELEMENTS TO YOUR BUSINESS

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Bioelements is a well-established professional skin care line which offers results-driven targeted facial options for the treatment room, and our Service Menu offers variety and flexibility.

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Bioelements range is completely customisable we have a custom-blend lab where you as the therapist can tailor the treatment AND the homecare to your client's specific concerns leads to very happy and loyal clientele.

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Bioelements has a complete retail range with a healthy 100% mark-up and regular in-salon promotions offered to keep your clients and staff excited.

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Bioelements is economical and has a low cost per treatment averaging around $5 per 60min treatment. This means big profits for your business.

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Absolute Spa offers mega support to our partner spas and salons with:

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Free education ㄰

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Regular contact and

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Trained staff to help you in your Bioelements journey.

Absolute Spa has flexible Opening Order options and payment plans available to eligible salons allowing you to immediately start.

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APJ 112

starperformer ㄰

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Have you got your

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yet?

Mirabella Beauty is a leading salon cosmetics brand from the USA that is fast becoming the professional's choice of colour cosmetics.

Offering a full range of over 200 contemporary mineral-based products for face, eyes and lips along with professional artistry tools, the Mirabella Beauty expansive range of cosmetic products provides you with quality formulas, clean ingredients and beautiful, sophisticated packaging. Products are available in timeless and trendy colours for all skin tones.

Mirabella Beauty also provides education and technical support to help you create the “oh wow” factor for every client, who will experience your special makeup to bring out the best in them.

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This season's latest makeup launched is Shady Lady. An exquisite trio eye shadow palette that will allow you to achieve an amazing look of smoky eyes with a fresh, crisp and innovative touch of colour, natural lips and a healthy glow to the cheeks. Here is how you can create the look: 1. First moisturise and prep the skin using Prime for Face & Eyes, then apply foundation of choice.

2. Cover entire eyelid with Diminish Conceal that will act as an eyeshadow base to extend wear and vibrancy.

3. Try new Perfecting Powder to set the foundation and concealer without additional weight to the skin.

4. Using the Shady Lady Eye Trio apply Charade (green) from the inner corner of the eye to the middle of the eyelid.

5. Apply Compelled (beige) from the brow and blend down to blend into Charade.

6. Add drama by sweeping Secrecy (plum) from the outer corner of the eye and blend into Charade.

7. Using a clean Eye Blender Brush blend shades together removing harsh edges.

8. Line eyes using Smoke Eye Definer. Set Smoke with Secrecy to make eyes really smoulder.

9. Apply two coats of Lash Essential Mascara.

10. Blissful Blush Colour Duo creates a rosy glow. Add a hint of highlight using Brilliant in Shimmer Rose.

11. Complete the look with a natural lip. Shimmery Flicker Colour Luxe delivers the perfect amount of sparkle for a beautiful summer glow.

CLEAN, LUXURY PRODUCTS | MODERN COLORS | QUALITY, INNOVATIVE FORMULAS Shady Lady Palette is a limited edition and retails for $60, Flicker Colour Luxe $35 for your clients and buy both for just $90.

Mirabella Beauty is available from Absolute Spa phone 1300 262 275 and start introducing these new trends to your clients.

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APJ 113

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starperformer Energist VPL Remains A Leader In Pulsed Light

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Quality equipment is allowing many aesthetic businesses to thrive in the face of competition from the Internet and supermarket brands. Energist is one such brand that is allowing aesthetic clinics to establish a point-of-difference based on quality European construction and proven performance.

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Energist has been a leader in Pulsed Light in Australia since the early 2000s and is widely regarded as one of the most reliable pulsed-light devices for permanent hair reduction and skin rejuvenation. The Variable Pulsed Light technology of the Energist allows the system to deliver clinical outcomes comparable to high-end IPL devices that are much more expensive.

The Energist Ultra Plus Spa includes treatment-specific handpieces that allow the user to deliver targeted outcomes for the clients. One of the significant benefits of the Energist is a user-friendly touch-screen interface that provides easy access to over 840 different pulse variations, specific treatment presets and energy output levels. This intuitive interface makes tailoring the treatment to the client's skin type and treatment requirements an easy process for the operator.

Matt Moncrieff, Managing Director of High Tech Laser, emphasised the importance of selecting a good-quality pulsed device when choosing pulsed-light equipment. “Intense Pulsed Light continues to be a necessary piece of equipment for the modern-day salon. A versatile, good-quality IPL allows the therapists to earn revenue from a wide range of treatment options,” he states.

“The Energist VPL continues to be a highly regarded brand in pulsed light. It's a medical-grade system that produces high-quality clinical results, while still sitting at a mid-range price that is affordable for most clinics. Energist was one of the pioneers of pulsed-light treatments worldwide so their systems have been refined over the years to the point where they are very reliable and provide consistent results. Because it is European-made it allows salons to promote that as a point-of-difference over salons using lower-quality devices.”

Matt also highlighted the importance that comprehensive training and support can play in improving performance and reducing the longterm operating costs. “Because we are a specialist equipment provider with a nationwide support network, our machines are reliable and outlast many competing systems from lower-quality manufacturers. As well as offering better training and technical support the systems deliver more consistent results and offer excellent value for money over time.

“We have over 400 Energist and iPulse users across Australia, which allows us to provide cost-effective ongoing training regularly throughout the year. As staff turnover occurs it is extras like this that can save business owners a huge amount of money over time, while also making it easy to keep their staff trained at the correct level to deliver high-quality treatments.” ㄰ 㤵 㜵

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QUALITY EQUIPMENT DRIVING SUCCESS OF SALONS Consumers are becoming much more aware of advanced cosmetic procedures, and in line with this, therapists are also exposed to a lot more technical information. With the ongoing awareness of new technologies among therapists and consumers having a greater interest in their appearance, this trend is set to continue.

Commenting on the successful use of technology in salons Matt said, “We are seeing that salons that have consistently invested in

equipment that deliver high-quality results are the ones that are thriving. They use it as a point of difference. And if clients see a good result, and they can't replicate it at home, then they have to return to the salon or clinic. This keeps them coming back and reduces the temptation for clients to switch to 'supermarket brands'. When the clients like the result of the treatment they will find a way to afford that treatment again and will go without other luxuries to do that.”

HIGH TECH LASER'S PHILOSOPHY “Training for clients and their staff is a high priority for our company.

Ongoing training and after-sales support are an important part of what High Tech Laser offers and we believe this is what sets us apart. One of the significant strengths of our company is we also work in the medical industry, so we have the knowledge and nation-wide infrastructure to deliver the service medical practitioners expect. This means our clients receive a very high level of service and they can have the confidence that we are a solid company that is going to be around to support them for many years to come.

“If purchasers don't know how to utilise the full functions of a device then they won't get the best return on investment,” Matt explained.

“The success of our clients and the numbers of sales we're now receiving through referrals is a testament that this philosophy is working.”

To find out more about the Energist VPL System and High Tech Laser call 1300 309 233 or visit www.hightechlaser.com.au.

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APJ 114

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