APJ Vol 37 2018

Winter Volume 37 2018

Aesthetics Practitioners Journal is the official publication of the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network PTY LTD.

Beauty & wellbeing through

nature & technology APJ 1

IN THIS ISSUE WINTER VOLUME 37. 2018 BUSINESS, PERSONAL AND PROFESSIONAL DEVELOPMENT

10

26-27

82-83

50-52

86-87

THE HEALING POWER OF COMPASSION SELLING FROM THE HEART

58

EULOGY TO A LEGEND

60-63

MASTERING THE SOCIAL MEDIA PHENOMENON TIME VERSUS MONEY EQUATION

118-121

TIPS FOR BETTER BUSINESS

AESTHETIC BULLETIN

APAN INDUSTRY REPORTS, NEWS AND PRODUCTS 8-9

18-23

10-13

102-105

HEART-2-HEART COVER STORY

68-70

PERFECTING “ADDEDVALUE” TO AN ARTFORM

PRODUCT INNOVATIONS SCIENTIFIC NEWS

92

REGULATIONS, STANDARDS AND EDUCATION 14-15

32-35

16

72-74

THE POWER OF CONSULTATION POSITION STATEMENT GUIDELINES FOR COSMETIC NURSES

50

TATTOO REMOVAL AND THE SAFETY CONSIDERATION

SCALPMICROPIGMENTATION THE PLASMA PHENOMENON

SEMINARS, EXPOS AND CONFERENCES 36—39

APAN AESTHETIC CONFERENCE - SYDNEY

40-41

16

ACHIEVING THE WINNING MINDSET

42

TRANSFORMATION LEADERSHIP MASTERCLASS

46-48

HOW MENTORING CAN EMPOWER YOU WITH A NEW, MORE EFFICIENT MINDSET

48

FUTURE CLASS LEADERSHIP ACADEMY APJ 4

59

A5M CONFERENCE

66

THE PATHOGENESIS OF ACNE – BIOFILMS AND THE ACNE CYTOKINE CONNECTION

78-81

EDUCATION AND CELEBRATION REACHES A NEW LEVEL

106-107

NON-SURGICAL SYMPOSIUM WRAP-UP

54

SCIENTIFIC RESEARCH, TREATMENTS AND TECHNOLOGY 24

THE ESCARGOT FACTOR IN SKINCARE

28-29

WHAT’S ALL THE FUSS ABOUT TURMERIC

44-45

PROTEOLYTIC ENZYMES

54-56

THE QUEST FOR YOUTH AND BEAUTY – CAN EPIGENETICS BE THE ANSWER?

64-65

92-96

CAFFEINE AND ITS IMPACT ON HEALTH AND THE SKIN

98-101

THE ZINC FACTOR FOR SKIN AND BODY

108-109

COLLAGEN INTEGRITY AND KNOWING THE IMPORTANT DIFFERENCE OF VARIOUS TYPES

110-111

OREGANO – MORE THAN JUST A SALAD HERB

THE BENEFITS OF SILICONES IN COSMETIC FORMULATIONS

112-113

84-85

114-115

THE SWEET BENEFITS OF CHERRIES

88-90

UNDERSTANDING POLYCYSTIC OVARY SYNDROME

THE MECHANISMS AND BENEFITS OF LEMONGRASS

Editor Katherine McCann (07) 5593 0360 info@apanetwork.com www.apanetwork.com

Printed For Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network ACN: 136 987 169 ABN: 25 136 987 169

Typesetting & Graphics Angus Thompson TEV Group Pty Ltd

Accounts Payable Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network PO Box 5448, Q Super Centre QLD 4218

Advertising & Marketing Tina Viney Phone: (07) 5593 0360 info@apanetwork.com Fax:(07) 5593 0367 Mobile: 0412 177 423 Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network PO Box 5448, Q Super Centre QLD 4218 Australia Publisher TEV Group Pty Ltd Design & Production Artwork and Editorial TEV Group Pty Ltd Unit 7D 76-84 Robina Town Centre Drive, Robina QLD 4226 Australia Phone: (07) 5593 0360 info@apanetwork.com Fax:(07) 5593 0367 Mobile: 0412 177 423

Journal Advisory Board Terry Everitt - Education Features Wendy Neely - PR and Marketing Dr Douglas Grose - Scientific Content Caroline Nelson - Business Features National Advisory Council John Fergusson Terry Everitt Chris Testa Gill Fish Vanessa Kirkham Carole Jackson ISSN: 1836-9812 Pint Post Approved [100000257] Circulation 6900

WINNING THE BATTLE AGAINST HAIR-LOSS

116-117

IS THERE ANY EVIDENCE THAT OATMEAL CAN BENEFIT THE SKIN?

Winter Volume 37 2018

Aesthetics Practitioners Journal is the official publication of the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network PTY LTD.

Front Cover Diamond Natural Beauty 0406 279 889 Rgreenberg888@gmail.com www.diamondnaturalbeauty.com For further information see pages 10 - 13

Beauty & wellbeing through

nature & technology APJ 1

The Aesthetics Practitioners Journal is the official publication of the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd, a network organisation established to service the needs of the aesthetics industry in the area of professional development and business networking. The Aesthetics Practitioners Journal is published quarterly for the benefit of its members and subscribers and aims to inform and educate its members on better business practices and industry advancements. All editorials and articles that are submitted for publishing remain the property of Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd. Reproduction in part or in whole is not permitted without prior written authorisation by the publishers. Every effort has been made to ensure that all scientific and technical information presented is as accurate as possible at the time of publishing. However, members and readers are highly recommended to also seek external advice from their accountant, registered financial adviser or healthcare professional for their recommendations.

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EDITOR’S NOTE Katherine McCann

IN LIFE AND BUSINESS, we often encounter experiences that can either devastate us or allow us to grow, and consequently we can either grow through pain, or we can grow through insight.

Isn’t it true that both of these elements dance with us throughout our lives – and through many forms.

As pain enters our life it challenges us to make a shift.? You start a relationship or a business, but it fails and the emotional and financial loss can be devastating - it is painful.

But then when you look back at what may have gone wrong and you learn what to do and what not to do next time you attempt your next endeavour.

It’s amazing, areas you have failed in can create a wakeup call for us to make a commitment to be better equipped and take better care of our life and business and can help us grow in wisdom. Failure and the lessons learnt can make our heart

fi

Although growth through pain can be gradual and slow, it allows you to get stronger and wiser over time.

On the other hand, there is another way to grow and that is through insight - where information and knowledge can create in you an awakening – you grow by insight. It’s that “a-ha” moment when something just clicks. It may be an idea you picked up from something you read, a conversation you had with a colleague or friend, a revelation you gained from a conference program, a new understanding that enlightens you and gets you excited to do things better next time, or do them in a totally fresh and new way.

Growth through insight and awakening is so much more fun and so much easier than learning through trial and error. This is why I love reading inspirational articles that contain not just depth of knowledge, but also wisdom.

What I love about APJ is that we have a policy not to put limitations and restrict articles to just fit within a “word count”. Our writers are given the freedom to articulate and conceptualise their content, taking a few extra lines if necessary to ensure what they are trying to say is expressed fully and well. This is because our mission with APJ is to both inform and inspire you, transforming your way of thinking to new and better ways.

So next time you pick up your APJ Journal give yourself some time and allow its content to saturate your mind and heart. Allow it to guide you through the growing of new ideas, insights and awakenings. The content is there and we carefully try to balance knowledge and inspiration. When you complete an article ask yourself, “what have I learnt from this and how can I put it to good use in taking the next step?”

I guess is some ways, it’s about absorbing information through the mindfulness approach of fully immersing in both the information we are reading as well “enjoying and experiencing” that information.

@apan.page

k.mccann@apanetwork.com www.apanetwork.com

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more resilient and we learn to love and appreciate ourselves just that little bit more.

Until next edition, be sure to stay connected with APAN, check out our socials and new look website and remember, hindsight is a powerful thing – use it wisely.

OUR REGULAR APJ CONTRIBUTERS TERRY EVERITT Terry Everitt is regarded as a ‘Master Skincare Professional’ due to his extensive knowledge in the art and science of skincare. A very competent educator and regular lecturer on aesthetic and medical conferences where he presents up-to-date information from an evidence-based scientific perspective. Terry is the Director of Aesthetic Educators Pty Ltd. To contact Terry you can email him at aestheticeducators@gmail.com.

CAROLINE NELSON Caroline Nelson is a beauty industry expert with over 40 years industry experience. She specialises and is passionate in helping clinics and spas develop their brand, improve productivity, and increase bottom-line profit. To learn more about her step-by-step program for salon spa success visit www.SalonSpaBusiness.com or phone 041 0600 440.

GAY WARDLE Gay Wardle is a well-known multi-awarding winning industry expert and a renowned lecturer who conducts advanced skin analysis training for businesses and their staff on all issue pertaining to skin science. If you would like you and your staff to undertake training with Gay please contact Gay on 0418 708 455 or book online at www.gaywardle.com.au. You can also email her on gay@m-da.com.au.

JACINE GREENWOOD Jacine Greenwood is an internationally recognised educator who is known within the industry for her up-to-date knowledge and her ability to deliver training in an easy to understand method.

Jacine holds six Diplomas, including a Diploma of Cosmetic Chemistry and a Bachelor of Nursing.

Her knowledge is highly respected in the cosmetic industry. With over 22 years experience in the industry and a background of cosmetic formulation, Jacine has an immense knowledge of current trends in research and new developments in the industry. Contact her on 07 3807 1429 or email jacine@roccoco.com.au.

DR ZAC TURNER Dr Zac Turner has a broad medical background specialising in regenerative and aesthetic medicine.

Aesthetically, Dr Zac feels that a natural look is best, and truly believes that his ‘less-is-more’ approach. Dr Zac is involved in both the men’s health and preventative health space. He sees prevention and body optimisation as the ultimate way to prevent chronic disease, obesity, and many other conditions. He has owned and is currently involved with clinics in the holistic health arena and believes that through an holistic assessment of someone’s health we can enable them to live longer, healthier, and happier. Contact Dr Zac by Email: zac@drzac.co.

TRISH HAMMOND Trish Hammond is an award-winning blog and social media expert and the director of Plastic Surgery Hub. She is renowned for her skilful writing and interviews in all facets of the social media space. Her company specialises in the Aesthetics, Cosmetic Surgery and Cosmetic Medicine industry sectors for which she provides personalised and comprehensive services to help businesses communicate powerfully, grow their brand and capture new clients and patients. If you would like to speak to Trish about your blogging needs please contact her on 0429 264 811 or Email info@plasticsurgeryhub.com.au.

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Heart-to-Heart A message from the President and CEO

Dear Colleagues and friends, CAN YOU BELIEVE IT, half the year has already gone!

Indeed, how time flies especially when you are busy, and busy we have been at APAN head office with so much happening, so let me share with you some key highlights.

WA HAS CHANGES ITS LASER LEGISLATION In my report in the March issue of APJ I mentioned that we have written and appealed to the WA Radiological Council recommending that when their legislation was up for review to consider adopting a more national uniform approach allowing non-medical practitioners in WA with the appropriate qualifications to be permitted to practice laser.

We are pleased to announce that on the 11th May 2018 the Council considered the matter and agreed that the use of laser for hair removal and superficial cosmetic procedures would no longer be limited to medical practitioners. The updated regulation will allow Beauty Therapists with Cert. IV and equivalent, as well as Enrolled and Registered nurses who have attained a recognised laser safety course and completed and undertaken at least 50 hours of practical training for each procedure they will be performing – 50 hours for hair reduction, 50 hours for skin rejuvenation, 50 hours for removal of vascular lesions and 50 hours for pigmentation. This is great news both for WA therapists as well as for laser practitioners who are moving to WA from the East Coast and hold qualifications in laser.

REVIEWS FOR COSMETIC TATTOOING AND SKIN REJUVENATION QUALIFICATIONS – A CASE FOR CHANGE Coming to cosmetic tattooing and skin rejuvenation, at the beginning of June APAN received notification from SkillsIQ that the National Training Package was up for review and certain specific areas would be considered for updates, these being Cosmetic Tattooing and Microblading, as well as Skin Rejuvenation and Needling procedures. The proposed A Case for Change allowed us to put forward our recommendations. We immediately APJ 8

sent out a detailed survey to receive your feedback on what changes you wanted with excellent responses.

On the 14th June APAN submitted a detailed report to SkillsIQ putting forward our recommendations. Going from the feedback we have receive the overwhelming majority requested that Cosmetic Tattooing be removed as an elective in the Diploma of Beauty Therapy and become a stand-alone qualification, as this would service the industry better.

We also proposed that Microblading/Feather-stroking be include as an elective unit within the new Cosmetic Tattooing qualification. While APAN and the ACT support this move as our Position Statement we now had the opportunity to see it implemented in the proposed updates. This is a positive move forward that will help establish a national position supporting the formal training for microblading as part of a Cosmetic Tattooing qualification.

With the current frenzy with Plasma skin tightening treatments we have also proposed that Plasma should also be considered as an elective unit with the Cosmetic Tattoo qualification.

Coming to skin rejuvenation Skin Needling is now considered to be positioned within a qualification. We believe that an appropriate unit that provides both theoretical and practical training in skin needling of up to .5mm is warranted within the Beauty Therapy Diploma qualification. As collagen induction therapy falls within the use of 1mm – 2mm, we believe it requires a high level of pathophysiology and skin biology, which is currently being delivered within the advanced diplomas, graduate certificates and the tertiary qualifications. The feedback from you was 60% in favour of this position and 40% believed that 1mm – 2mm should be included in the Diploma of Beauty Therapy.

THANK YOU I want to take this opportunity to thank all those who responded to our survey with your feedback. Please note that these are unique windows of opportunity that we can articulate our collective opinions to pursue

Integrity without knowledge is weak and useless, and knowledge without integrity is dangerous and dreadful.

— SAMUEL JOHNSON (1709-1784)

change. I know we are all very busy people however, can I please urge you to check your APAN emails, as often our information relates to regulatory issues and we not only need to update you, but we also want to hear from you. We are your collective voice and we need to make sure we put forward your recommendations.

PROFESSIONAL STANDARDS FOR NURSES In May I also received a letter form Adjunct Professor Kylie Ward information us of changes in required professional standards for nurses working in a clinical setting that provide cosmetic procedures. Please see the full report on page 16. It is interesting to note that over 80% of the procedures mentioned are actually common procedures that aesthetic practitioners and and dermal therapists also perform. These standards have been set up as a result of a collaboration between the Australian College of Nursing and the Australian College of Cosmetic Surgery.

It is important to note that industry bodies are required to put forward standards and request that their practitioners take note and adhere to these requirements. They do not need to become enforceable legislation for the industry to take note. It is a given that if your professional body has a “Position Statement” that you will respect this and take it on board and implement it. This attitude is very much lacking in our industry with many doing “their own thing” just because it has not yet become an enforceable law. As professionals, our ethics should dictate that we take the higher moral ground when it comes to standards, regardless as to whether they are enforceable by regulation or not. An industry Position Statement from your professional Association or Body should be taken seriously. The more united we are in our standards the more we will be respected by consumers, healthcare professional bodies and the Government.

NEW STRATEGIC ALLIANCE PARTNERS ST GEORGE BANK: We are pleased to announce that we now have secured St George Bank as a valuable strategic alliance partner for our members. This alliance will help save you thousands of dollars in fees and charges when it comes to merchant banking (credit card services) as

well as the option to now lease or rent your expensive equipment at a very affordable rate. Please see their ad inside back cover in this journal for further details.

BEAUTYPAY: With more expensive services and packages your clients may need a little help to afford your treatments. APAN has secured a very special deal with BeautyPay so that you can access their services for progressive payments and save on the $395 set up fee.

OASIS FINANCIAL PLANNING: We have also secured a very innovative company to provide our members with valuable and qualified advice on financial planning, mortgages, lending financial restructuring, as well as accessing reliable wealth-creation strategies to help you improve your financial position and secure a better retirement plan.

ALL OUR PROGRAMS HAVE YOU IN MIND If you haven’t booked for our APAN AESTHETIC CONFERENCE in Sydney please check out the program (pages 36-39). We have an amazing program for you that you will not want to miss out. Also, please plan to attend our educational workshops. There are several that we are staging this year to help provide you with depth of knowledge. All our programs have you in mind.

Our aim is to help you become more confident, more professional and more successful in whatever area you which to specialise in. We have your best interest at heart.

Page 59 you will also see the program for the A5M Medical and Aesthetic Confrence. We strongly encourqage you to prioritise to also attend this event.

Of all the medical conference this one delivers amazing depth of knowledge and the very latest in evidencebased science to whole body wellness as well as aesthetics. It is an event not to be missed.

APAN - Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network PTY LTD President and CEO 07 5593 0360 info@apanetwork.com | www.apanetwork.com APJ 9

COVERSTORY

RESTORING ENEGY, BEAUTY AND SUPPORTING HEATLH With nature and technology Diamond Natural Beauty is an innovative brand that is bringing a fresh, new approach to client care that meets favourably with current consumer expectations in appearance and wellness.

Helen and Ronald Greenberg are not just directors, but also inventors of the Diamond International technology and methodologies. They are passionate about client and patient safety, as well as for exceptional results. Their cutting-edge innovations are based on a strong philosophy of achieving results through proven and safe technologies and protocols that go beyond just improving the skin. Diamond Natural Beauty provides the perfect solution for superior, safe and efficacious results in skin improvement with the added benefit of supporting and enhancing wellbeing.

Diamond uses a patented technology that is scientifically and medically-proven and peer-reviewed within medical and scientific literature, one of which is recommended reading on the International Olympic website. These technologies have been successfully used world-wide for over 26 years within the spa and beauty industry.

We caught up with Ronald to gain a greater understanding of the company’s philosophy and how it has influenced their choices of technological development and their specific approach in skin and body treatments.

APJ Q1: RONALD, EXPLAIN TO US THE PHILOSOPHY BEHIND YOUR INNOVATIONS AND WHAT ADDITIONAL BENEFITS DOES YOUR TECHNOLOGY OFFER THE CONTEMPORARY SALON OR CLINIC THAT WANTS TO

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STAND OUT IN THE MARKET PLACE AND IMPROVE THEIR BOTTOM LINE? Current global statistics confirm that we can expect huge growth in the skin and wellbeing services that include body sculpturing in the coming years. It is therefore an advantage if businesses extend their services to include body care as this is definitely a business growth opportunity.

On the one hand, with the growth of scientifically-validated evidence of the efficacy of natural herbs, plants and mineralbased ingredients new advances are developing treatments that provide treatment solutions, which are aligned to the use of natural ingredients in addressing both skin and body issues.

On the other hand, we are also experiencing amazing technological advances in equipment innovations, such as such as those provided by Diamond that are now supported by both science and medicine. At Diamond Natural Beauty we are embracing the best of both worlds by using technology in a beneficial way that works in harmony with the natural systems of the body, while at the same time honouring the ancient wisdom of natural treatments that can benefit both facial improvement, as well as body wellbeing.

Diamond embraces both science and nature with groundbreaking treatments that give immediate and lasting results.

We use natural non-invasive and non-toxic treatments to strengthen the systems of the body. Additional to tissue stimulation our technologies facilitate the removal of toxins and other stagnations within the body that lead to premature ageing with manifestations such as accumulation of fat and the rapid development of wrinkles.

PHOTO OF HELEN & RONALD

Diamond uses a patented technology that is scientifically and medically-proven and peerreviewed within medical and scientific literature, one of which is recommended reading on the International Olympic website. These technologies have been successfully used worldwide for over 26 years within the spa and beauty industry.

As our treatments are promoting physiological change without the need for injury responses they are lasting and the clinical studies support that results improve in the weeks following the treatments.

Diamond technology is backed by authentic, peer-reviewed science, published by Springer Nature, one of the world’s leading scientific publishers. This same scientific publication is also recommended reading on the official Olympic International website.

Results start to become visible within minutes of the commencement of the treatment and are comfortable for the client. We have numerous testimonials that can vouch for this.

APJ Q2: HOW WOULD YOU DEFINE TRUE BEAUTY? We believe that real physical beauty is a by-product of the wellbeing of the body and can better be achieved through technologies and methods that also enhance health and wellbeing. Scientific advances are now proving that this can be achieved without the necessity of aggressive treatments that use extreme heat, or cooling to injure the body in order to achieve rejuvenation. Our patented technology can achieve this without injury or invasive techniques.

The results of each one of our treatments are lasting and are seen within minutes of the commencement of the treatment.

We are able to achieve impressive results by improving

circulation, clearing the peripheral lymphatic system (ECM) of stagnant lymph that comes with age, poor diet, injury or even post-surgery. We then aim at strengthening muscles.

APJ 3: SHARE WITH US HOW YOUR TECHNOLOGIES PROVIDE SOLUTIONS IN SKIN AND AGEMANAGEMENT? Diamond treatments work on all levels of the body. Here is a brief description of some of our key technologies:

1. For lifting and improving muscle tone – Medilift (Advanced dynamic Waveform Therapy) The Diamond Medilift is a dynamic wavelength device that can be used to tone muscles anywhere on the body, as well as decrease and mobilise fat in certain areas. This technique is based on the response of muscles to electro-stimulation.

Electro-stimulation has been used for years to improve muscle tone. It is evident that with age, muscle weakness and decreased tone are prevalent. Although one may exercise facial muscles, it is very difficult to do so to all the 108 muscles in the face. With proper pad placement, the muscles of the face can be stimulated to increase their size and tone. This will fill in the gaps that cause wrinkles from poor muscle tone to occur and also mobilise fat located under the chin. In terms of the body results can be achieved for hips, thighs and buttocks.

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Equally important is the ability of the Medilift to tone and tighten the skin over the muscles. We can provide a 10-minute treatment that will clearly show you the ability of this technique to elevate the drooping eyes and sagging muscles. As with any muscle exercise, maintenance is required. Medilift requires maintenance of once a month. This procedure can replace face-lifts in many instances. Medilift can even be used before, or after facelifts where the muscles are not toned and have lost their bulk. Surgical facelifts do not address the muscle tone in most cases. The contouring provided by one of the wavelengths can also be used to treat cellulite on the body.

4. Follicular level – Diamond dual Oxy treatments infuse bio-available liquid oxygen and high-quality serums into the follicles for real and lasting follicular purification and rejuvenation. Diamond’s unique trans-epidermal delivery system delivers a matrix of bio-available liquid trace and essential minerals and oxygen to rejuvenate the skin to restore vibrancy and a youthful glow.

2. Peripheral lymphatic system (ECM) - Diamond Pure Sculpt treatments use patented, modified Biomesosculpture technology to clear the lymphatic stagnation and mobilise it for elimination through the main lymphatic system. Great for also treating cellulitis

Microdermabrasion is an age-old treatment that has been adapted, modernised and made easier with the Diamond Flower Peel™ system. This improved method first delivers a controlled, yet powerful stream of pure organic flower grains to the skin in order to slough off dead cells, leaving the skin smooth and fresh, then a second peel with serum infusion is performed to rehydrate and treat, while promoting new skin and collagen stimulation. This program has been derived from the numerous experiences of international skincare experts and further adapted by medical physicians to meet today’s skin and bodycare needs. The Diamond Flower Peel™ experience is at the cutting-edge of anti-ageing skin treatments that utilises three flower grains – rose, lavender and tea tree.

3. Myo-facial level – Oxi Peel and Lift Plus. Diamond Oxy vibro-treatments create a myo-facial release which soften the tissue and release trapped toxins thereby improving circulation. This technology provides three actions: Step 1 – Oxy Peel: Oxygen with Diamond Peel will assist in skin rejuvenation as you infuse skin type specific oxy serums to feed the layers of the skin with rejuvenating oxygen as well as plump up the skin. Diamond Oxy Peel and Sculpt™ Crystal-free Microdermabrasion is a progressive, noninvasive resurfacing treatment that removes the dull, dead cells on the skin’s surface. Microdermabrasion cleans pores and aids in balancing sebum production, while stimulating collagen and evening out the skin’s texture and tone leaving it remarkably smooth and luminous. Skin will appear softer, smoother, brighter, clearer, fresher and younger-looking!

Step 2 – Spray (hydrate): Express oxygen facial to hydrate and oxygenate the skin with specially formulated bioavailable liquid oxygen with minerals. Oxygen, together with key vitamins and minerals are essential for the healthy metabolism of every cell in our body, including the skin cells. Diamond Oxy Peel & Sculpt™ Oxygen Therapy will regenerate and boost the health of every cell with pure oxygen, plus essential vitamins and minerals. The treatment also supports and strengthens the production of facial collagen – a critical element in slowing the ageing process.

From the first treatment we see an instant boost in the skin appearance and glow. The skin appears refreshed, hydrated and feels tighter and firmer with every cell receiving a boost in nourishment.

Step 3 – Oxy Lift & Infuse (Hydrate): This step provides fast pulsing oxy-waves for facial lifting toning, tightening and sculpting for natural rejuvenation. Product infusion for follicular regeneration via deep infusion for skin brightening, skin purifying and clearing with super hydration.

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5. Skin level – Diamond Oxy Peel and Flower Peel systems will gently peel the skin for the purpose of smoothing and unblocking pores.

The Diamond Flower Peel™ offers a wide choice to the client who may be considering the more serious forms of skin peeling, (chemical, laser). With the Diamond Flower Peel™ system you are able to resurface the epidermal layers at varying depths in a controlled manner with minimal trauma to the skin, combining skin peeling with hydration and skin rejuvenation serums. This is the latest, most innovative system in microdermabrasion technology.

Diamond Oxy Peel and Sculpt – This is our top-of-the-range device that integrates four of the five technologies above.

APJ 4: HOW INTEGRATIVE ARE YOUR TECHNOLOGIES? CAN YOU LAYER THEM AS PART OF A TREATMENT PLAN? As Diamond technologies are non-invasive and supportive to the body – they integrate very easily into other technologies and can be used synergistically to accelerate treatment results.

APJ 5: IF A SALON OR CLINIC HAS NEVER INTEGRATED WELLNESS IN THEIR TREATMENT PLAN, CAN YOU PROVIDE TRAINING AND EDUCATION TO ALLOW THEM TO CONFIDENTLY OFFER THESE TREATMENTS? We offer full in-salon/clinic training throughout Australia on multiple system purchases. This training will allow you

to transform your business and expand your client-base by extending your treatment offerings to meet a growing demand in beauty with wellbeing benefits.

APJ 6. WHAT KIND OF ON-GOING SUPPORT CAN A BUSINESS EXPECT FROM YOU? As Diamond has already operated in Australia for 26 years we have a long-term reputation for service and support.

APJ 7. DO YOU BELIEVE THAT YOUR SERVICES BETTER MEET WITH TODAY’S CLIENT EXPECTATIONS? CAN YOU ELABORATE ON THAT? Yes, we definitely meet and exceed client expectations because there is so much that we can offer even the most demanding client. Our treatments are highly prized both by clients and business owners alike, as the results can be experienced immediately. They are also long-lasting and without injury, while an added advantage is that they are pain-free leaving the client with a feeling of enhanced wellbeing. This is what the current consumers is looking for – not just skin improvement, but also greatly value treatments that go beyond appearance to

also benefit their overall wellbeing. Delivering a service at this level also gives the business a competitive advantage and the option to grow their profitability and business through loyal and satisfied clients.

We are excited to offer businesses not only leading technologies, but also the benefit of our extensive knowledge and experience which we have acquired. Over the many years we are consistently developing ways to perfect results and create a truly rewarding experience for consumers, while salons and clinics can enjoy profitable business growth. APJ If you would like to introduce any of the Diamond Natural Products and systems into your business please contact:

DIAMOND NATURAL BEAUTY 0406 279 889 rgreenberg888@gmail.com www.diamondnaturalbeauty.com

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CONSULTATION

THE POWER OF CONSULTATION

ENHANCE YOUR CLIENT’S EXPERIENCE AND MANAGE YOUR RISKS

By Elizabeth and Robert McGowan MEETING YOUR CLIENT’S expectations is essential to building and growing a business. Exceeding your client’s expectations would be even better, but who sets those expectations? Usually it’s you, the salon, or clinic owner.

You’ve promoted yourself on Facebook, got a great website, and engaged your clients on Instagram. Every time you’ve shown a picture of a treatment, made a comment, or perhaps promised great results, you’ve been developing an expectation with your client. They have seen pictures of great s– expectations have been set.

How do you ensure your client understands that perfection doesn’t await them after every treatment? That the skin they exposed to the relentless Australian sun day-after-day on the beach in their teenage years can be improved, but not made perfect. That the scar tissue formed beneath their eyebrows after multiple poor microblading treatments isn’t the perfect canvas for their new cosmetic tattoo ombre brows.

CONTRAINDICATIONS AND PRECAUTIONS– Assuming you have ‘screened’ your new client and are happy to proceed, let the consultation commence. Properly prepared forms are essential, either hardcopy or electronic fillable forms that look professional assure the client you are thorough and allow you to ask questions in a systematic and organised way that gets the necessary information in a quick and friendly manner. If the client is uneasy about answering a question you can always say, “sorry, we have to have this information as a requirement from our insurers, or for auditing purposes”. Try and avoid answering for them otherwise they will just agree with whatever you suggest, right or wrong.

The personal information you need from your client must include emergency contact details in case something goes wrong. The details of their doctor may be useful, but with anything serious you’re going to call 000 for an ambulance anyway.

You consult with your client and take them through a short journey of understanding that winds back any false expectations they may have developed over weeks or months of internet searches and discussions with friends. Perhaps they do have the prefect bone structure and healthy skin that means you can have them looking like the best pictures on your Facebook page. However, most of your clients won’t, so you need to set the scene so what lies ahead is going to be satisactory and maybe a little exciting.

The medical history is particularly important. Depending on the treatment, some of the conditions may be absolute contraindications that mean you cannot proceed with the treatments. Here are just some examples:

DEALING WITH DIFFICULT CLIENTS If a client arrives at your salon and says “I’m difficult to please” or even “I might be your worst nightmare”, it may be amusing, but it will likely be true. With such clients, or those that appear erratic use your judgement and be prepared to say “no”, or more politely “Perhaps we’re not the ideal salon for your treatment. Usually these clients prove to be much more trouble than they are worth, take up too much time, are never satisfied, and distract you from servicing all the other clients that do appreciate the great work you do. They will usually cost you money and you run the risk of unfair comments on social media that may cause more significant damage. Don’t even take them to the consultation stage; you don’t need the hassle!

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Active cold sores on the lips are an absolute contraindication for lip tattooing

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Diabetics should have doctor’s consent for treatment due to compromised healing

•

Glaucoma represent too high a risk for eyeliner due to increased pressure during treatment.

This is not a comprehensive list, just an indication of some of the reasons you may have to decline to treat.

Some aspects of the medical history checklist should cover allergies. As an example, occasionally people are allergic to latex, so you may need vinyl gloves that are thin enough to allow you to work normally. Test some out and have some available just in case.

Other aspects of the medical history are important in case something happens during the treatment and you can be prepared, or at least aware of what to do. If your client declares

With SMP the healing process is particularly important. For at least three days (some clinics specify longer) the scalp should not be washed to enable dry healing. No water, no sweat, no sun; nothing to interfere as the pigment is encapsulated into the skin and gently fades to a natural look. Having been properly briefed on all this the client was heavily engaged in the process itself, allowing him to ask for more simulated follicles here and there. A few hours after the treatment the client decided it was too dark and contacted the THink technician who advised him to just let it settle down and wait for the healed colour to start to emerge in a few days. But no, the client decided to get in a hot shower and then rub tea tree oil all over his head! You can imagine the consequences, with pigment migrating and creating a mess. Bizarre, but it happened. In situations like this, “I told you so” isn’t necessarily going to save the day, but at least you will have documentation to back you up if things become difficult. they suffer from epilepsy, discuss what should happen in the unlikely event they have an attack during the treatment. If they have history of poor blood clotting, or excessive bleeding you need to be prepared for this if you agree with your client to still proceed.

CLARIFYING PROCEDURAL EXPECTATION Having completed the medical history it is time to walk your client through the procedure, what to expect during the procedure and what to expect in terms of short and longer results, what to do and expect during the relevant healing process, and any restrictions on what they can do. This is the final step of setting expectations before the procedure commences It is also the most important step of managing your risks, apart from doing a good job!

You may find clients just regard the paperwork as a formality to be dispensed with quickly and just want to get on with their procedure. Allow enough time in your booking schedule, and take the time to get this right, emphasise important points verbally, and document additional points if you need to.

Your documentation should include all the key risks and future considerations for the specific procedure you are about to perform. If you have a diversified practice with multiple different types of procedures you may need multiple forms to avoid anything too lengthy or complicated. The client needs to be able to fill it in easily and the practitioner needs to be clear what is important.

To use once again the example of cosmetic tattooing, here are some of the examples of key topics: •

Fading and scarring (particularly with microblading)

•

Final healed pigment colour may vary according to skin colour and medications

•

The need to follow aftercare procedures carefully

• •

In today’s world of ‘trial by social media’, despite having done all the right consultation and documentation, and then delivered a great treatment, you still risk emotion and drama spilling onto the pages of Facebook and multiple other social media platforms. Avoiding this should be your number one priority to protect your business, because the casual reader will automatically assume the business or technician was at fault. Telling the world on Facebook the client was wrong isn’t going to help you. Talk to the client, address their concerns as much as you can, irrespective of the rights and wrongs, and be prepared to give a refund, but not too easily.

If the issue goes beyond these early steps of dispute resolution, then consider each move carefully and keep emotions out of the process (easy said, hard to do).

In the event of a potential incident it is imperative that you immediately contact your insurance company and be guided by them on how to handle the situation. Don’t wait until it becomes a claim – It’s almost certainly a requirement of your insurance policy anyway. Insurance companies will have their own lawyers to provide guidance if needed. If the client gets active on social media, warning them in writing that you may make a claim against them for damages to your business may help them think twice about acting irresponsibly.

None of us like to dwell on these complications to our business, but the aesthetics industry is an emotional business; clients wanting to look their best and therapists and technicians wanting to provide the best. Sometimes there is going to be disappointment, and it needs to be managed immediately before an issue escalates out of all proportion.

Consultation is a very important component of keeping your – clients happy and managing your risks. It’s all part of a process: •

Engage with your clients

•

If you think a client may be too difficult, you don’t have to treat them

Laser treatment of pigments with titanium dioxide (TiO2) may turn blue-black if treated with a laser in the future

•

Ensure your have good documentation for consultation and a good process

That you take no responsibility for complications resulting from a false declaration

•

Do a great job that should be beyond any criticism

•

Get feedback from your client after the procedure

•

Keep in touch and make sure they are enjoying the results so they will be back for more!

Des–pite your best efforts with explanations and clarification, clients can be unpredictable and sometimes do strange things.

As an example, at THink Aesthetics of one of the treatments available is scalp micropigmentation (SMP). This is the simulation of hair follicles to give the client a full hair line with the shaven look. It is also a procedure very popular with women to improve the appearance of hair density, and also camouflage the consequences of issues such as traction alopecia.

With the appropriate comprehensive documentation and effective communication with your client you will be able to minimise risks and disruptions to your business. APJ

APJ 15

STANDARDS AND REGULATIONS

POSITION STATEMENT GUIDELINES FOR COSMETIC NURSES

By Tina Viney

AS MANY OF YOU will know I strongly believe that without regulations, or at the very least National Standards and qualifications that support best practice and define who we are as a profession our industry will remain in disarray.

•

skin cancer checks

•

acne management

•

scarring

•

rosacea

While regulatory changes take time and require a lengthy process to be defined and enforced, industry Associations and Standard Bodies have a duty-of-care to identify and put forward POSITIION STATEMENTS inviting their practitioners to adhere to. When these standards may not be initially enforceable, ethically any professional practitioner should aim at ensuring their practices reflect these recommendations.

•

anti-ageing/skin fitness

•

skin sensitivity

•

sun damage

•

pigmentation

•

leg and facial capillaries

•

removal of unwanted hair

Last month I received a letter from Adjunct Professor Kylie Ward informing me of changes in required professional standards for nurses working in clinics and who provide cosmetic procedures. The new standards where as a result of a collaboration between the Australian College of Nursing and the Australian College of Cosmetic Surgery and I was requested to inform our members of these, which we sent out to everyone via our EDM – Newsletter.

•

removal of benign skin lesions

•

skin tightening

•

referral to a specialist

•

administration of: - dermal fillers - muscle/wrinkle relaxants - other scheduled medicines as required.

For the benefit of all industry professional please review the content below of the above-mentioned Information Sheet: The public and health professionals have raised concerns about unsafe and unethical practices in clinics providing cosmetic procedures. In some cases, prompting the issuing of public warnings. With nurses both working in clinics that provide cosmetic procedures, as well as delivering cosmetic procedures, the Australian College of Nursing (ACN) is supporting steps to promote public protection in the sector.

Treatments performed: •

intense pulsed light

•

laser (including but not limited to Thulium/Erbium, Nd:YAG, Ruby Alexandrite

•

microdermabrasion

•

chemical peels (AHA, BHA, Jessner, TCA, Retinoid)

•

light emitting diode (LED) therapy

•

radiofrequency therapy

•

dermal roller/needling

•

platelet rich plasma

•

photodynamic therapy

This Information Sheet highlighted the regulatory safeguards in place to promote safe nursing practice in the provision of cosmetic procedures.

•

cosmetic tattooing

•

tattoo removal

•

sclerotherapy

It is also a timely reminder to nurses working in the sector that they must be appropriately qualified and working within their scope of practice within the bounds of relevant laws and regulations. Importantly, ACN reinforces with nurses their professional responsibilities and those of their service providers, such as clinical governance arrangements, infection prevention and control and emergency procedures.

•

fat reduction

The provision of skincare advice and referral for the following areas: •

skin cancer checks

•

management of common skin disorders

•

wound care

APJ 16

As you can see from the above description of treatments and technologies many of the procedures that are currently operated by nurses fall also within scope of procedures that many aestheticians and dermal therapists are performing. It stands to reason that ALL PRACTITIONERS who are performing such procedures consider it their responsibility to ensure they are qualified to perform these procedures, pursue their owngoing professional development and also be diligent to operate with the appropriate licences as set out and required in their state. APJ If you require further information please contact APAN for assistance. 07 5593 0360 | info@apanetwork.com

HOW IS THE COSMETIC TATTOO INDUSTRY MEASURING UP? Whether you wish to gain a nationallyaccredited government-approved qualification, or continue to master your Cosmetic Tattooing techniques, THink Aesthetics is your answer.

THink Aesthetics is a leading Registered Training Organisation (45188) and exclusive, Cosmetic Tattooing training specialists.

Committed to best practice, their training is delivered by educators who are skilled in the most recent and up-to-date global trends and advanced techniques – bringing worldstandards to you.

Our cosmetic tattoo supplier arm - THink MBC, has the sole Australian distribution rights for leading international brands: Nouveau Contour (Holland), Biotouch (USA), Karen Betts (UK) and Ecuri (Holland, for scalp pigments).

THink only uses and supplies the most advanced equipment and best quality products that meet with the highest European and international standards.

THink Aesthetics

07 3300 0465 info@thinkaesthetics.com www.thinkaesthetics.com.au

APJ 17

PHYT’S CREME HYDRATANTE PROVIDING 24HOUR PROTECTION Moisturisers often have limited capacity needing further application though-out the day. Phyt’s organic skincare now has introduced a 24-hour source of hydration for the skin, the Phyt’s Crème Hydratant 24 HR. This formulation delivers safe and effective moisturising agents to bind water to the skin and limit water-loss. Its creamy and fine texture restores strength and suppleness to the hydrolipidic film. Dry skin is renewed, smooth and hydrated around the clock. Clinical tests confirm the following results: + 68% hydration 6 hours after application + 60% hydration 8 hours after application + 22% hydration 24h after application Phyt’s Crème Hydratant 24HR is truly a breakthrough in optimising skin hydration and protecting the skin from pre-mature ageing.

Contact Phyt’s Australia 1300 656 627.

PRODUCT

A SYNERGISTIC COCKTAIL TO OPTIMISE SKIN VITALITY Multi-Vita serum is an aqueous cocktail of multivitamin and precious ingredients working in synergy with Ceveble®, a complex of lipids extracted from the plant world that mimics ceramides naturally found in the skin. Multi-Vita serum helps strengthen the skin barrier function and diminish wrinkles and fine lines. It has an immediate tensing and smoothing effect, which makes it ideal product to use around the eyes area improving tone and minimising the appearance of lines and wrinkles.

Contact Phyt’s Australia 1300 656 627.

APJ 18

BEAUTYMED DERMO COSMETICS HIGH-TECH COSMECEUTICAL SKINCARE BeautyMed Active High-Tech Cosmeceutical skincare offers a professional solution for high performance facial and non-invasive aesthetic treatments. These products are manufactured in France and based on ongoing research and development, innovation, quality and safety. The comprehensive range works effectively with microdermabrasion, hydrabrasion, dermal skin needling, oxygen infusion therapy, LED phototherapy, IPL and laser treatments. It consists of peels, serums, creams, nano bio-fibre masks, vitamins and fusion products. These are enriched with concentrated levels of selected acids, extracts, vitamins, anti-oxidants, peptides. Hyaluronic Acid, Taurine, Collagen and Elastin, Acetyl Hexapeptide and Arbutin for specific skin conditions and optimal results.

For more information, contact Clairderm Medical Aesthetics on 1300 781 239 | office@clairderm.com and visit us on www.medicalbeautyequipment.com

INNOVATIONS AQUA PHYT’S PROFESSIONAL TREATMENT Phyt’s organic skincare has developed a new innovative professional treatment to help restore hydration and energise fatigued skin. Providing a wellspring of hydrating actives the Aqua Phyt’s treatment will quench and refresh even the most, dry skin. This treatment will also awaken the senses with refreshing bouquet of bioactive botanicals such as (lemon, verbena, rosemary and lavandin) to also deliver a deep relaxation and alleviate stress. Additionally, concentrates of peppermint, palmarosa, aloe vera and 100% natural hyaluronic acid will sooth and restore skin vibrancy and hydration levels.

Deeper levels of relaxation follow with the application of a certified organic mask, while the skin is drenched with additional beneficial ingredients. Application of a 24hour hydrating moisturiser will complete the experience.

The skin will gain renewed vitality, look visibly brighter, smoother and younger-looking, while your client will experience an amazing sense of relaxation. The Phyt’s Aqua Professional Treatment will transform even the most fatigued skin giving renewed energy and vitality.

Contact Phyt’s Australia 1300 656 627

APJ 19

CELLBONE LAUNCHES SNAIL REPAIR ESSENCE New research is validating the benefits of snail mucus in improving skin hydration, while protecting the skin through its antimicrobial properties. Rich in hyaluronic acid, snail mucus also offers incredible hydrating properties. Cellbone has harnessed its benefits in their Snail Repair Essence, which untilise snail secretion filtrate and fortified with additional extracts such as Rose Water, Panthenol, Copper peptide, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide and Astaxanthin – the strongest anti-oxidant found in nature.

Cellbone Snail Repair Essence is the ultimate serum for boosting hydration levels and cell-renewal. It offers additional benefits such as protection from free radical damages as well as enhancing collagen and elastin renewal. Give your skin the “escarglow” with this amazing formula.

Contact Cosmedicell Technologies 07 5580 0403, E: cellboneordersau@gmail.com

PRODUCT

SOS RESPONSE FOR SENSITIVE SKIN Sensi Masque Apaisant is an SOS response to sensitive skin. This fresh, lightweight, hypoallergenic, fragrancefree mask will instantly reduce redness and soothes sensitive skin. The synergy of soothing and repairing actives (magnolia, mirabilis, cotton flower, aloe vera extracts, sweet almond oil, shea butter, Plant squalene and natural vitamin E) restore moisture, softness and comfort to the most sensitive skin.

Contact Phyt’s Australia 1300 656 627.

APJ 20

NANOSOME COPPER PEPTIDE SERUM Cellbone’s Nanosome Copper Peptide Serum is an amazing product that offers incredible benefits suitable for all skin types. It helps to recapture the skin’s natural elasticity by stimulating the production of both collagen and elastin defending the skin against sagging and fine lines. Copper peptide is a powerful antioxidant and can lessen the appearance of scar tissue and also offers proven healing and calming benefits to stressed skin, so it is excellent for post-invasive skin treatments to settle and repair the skin. Nanosome Copper Peptide Serum contains the Liquorice extract to fight pigmentation, Melon extract, rich in vitamins A, B and C, as well as Centella Asiatica, which contains abundant amino acids, beta carotene, fatty acids and phytochemicals. This super blend of powerful nutrients offers great anti-ageing benefits to repair and support skin health.

Contact Cosmedicell Technologies 07 5580 0403, E: cellboneordersau@gmail.com

INNOVATIONS THE POWER OF RESVERATROL The benefits of Resveratrol are both significant and numerous and validated by scientific studies. Resveratrol Nanocell Serum by Cellbone offers amazing benefits in revitalising the skin improving the appearance of fine lines, as well as improving skin tone and lifting and firming sagging skin. Resveratrol is also a very powerful antioxidant defending the skin against free radicals.

Cellbone’s Resveratrol Nanocell Serum also contains a powerful combination of actives such as aloe vera Juice, nanosome palmitoyl pentapeptide-3, melon extract, Resveratrol ferment extract 5%, human oligopeptide-3, plamitoyl tripeptide-5, alpha aArbutin, centella asiatica extract Scientists in a study (www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/ pubmed/21348544 ) confirm the benefits of resveratrol on acne indicating an decrease of acne bacteria by 54% in just 60 days. Acne skin conditions can benefit from this serum containing 5% Resveratrol.

Contact Cosmedicell Technologies 07 5580 0403, E: cellboneordersau@gmail.com APJ 21

SCULPT SMOOTH AND LIFT WITH THE ALL NEW DIAMOND BIOSCULPT The new Diamond BioSculpt Facial Cupping is an amazing new technology that has just been released on the market. It delivers incredible results by reversing the signs of ageing and helping improve skin tone and elasticity. It also helps to sculp muscles and deliver deep hydration to the skin. The Diamond BioSculpt has two components – BioSculpt Facial Cupping and High Intensity focused Microcurrent.

Technological BioSculpt incorporating the ancient practice of cupping with Myofacia release, eliminates stagnant fluids, stimulates blood flow and supports the formation of collagen. This technology also helps penetrate cutting-edge formulations deep into the skin.

High Intensity Focused Microcurrent works on a cellular level to help stimulate collagen and elastin production. It delivers high-intensity facial lifting, improves overall facial tone and leaves the skin smooth, hydrated and glowing.

SPECIAL INTRODUCTORY OFFER TO APAN MEMBERS Launch price $2250 plus GST (subject to availability).

For information contact 0403 498 807 Ronald Greenberg at Diamond International.

PRODUCT JANE IREDALE LAUNCHES POST-LASER KIT Known as the skincare makeup, jane iredale boast at using the very best mineral makeup ingredients that are actually good for the skin. Now she has also developed the perfect Post-Laser Kit to help soothe, nourish, protect and conceal redness the skin post-treatment.

The Post-Laser Kit. Kit includes: • Smooth Affair Facial Primer and Brightener (available in BB5, BB6 or BB7 •

Glow Time Full Coverage Mineral BB Cream

•

Lip Drink Lip Balm - Flirt

•

PurePressed Base Foundation Sample

All packaged in a jane iredale silver cosmetic tin. The Post-Laser Kit is a must for all who offer IPL and Laser treatments, or any procedure where the skin can benefit from some calming, protection and soothing.

Contact Margifox Distributors 1300 850 008.

APJ 22

MYSTIKOL POWDERED EYELINER jane iredale has just launched two beautiful new-generation eyelines in Emerald and Sapphire. The Mystikol Powdered Eyeliners glide onto the eyelid with the precision of a liquid or gel liner before drying down to a water-resistant powder finish. The brush, enclosed within the lid, allows you to create precise, graphic lines and detailed work along the lash line. Easy to apply and very comfortable to wear they create a finish of true elegance.

Contact Margifox Distributors 1300 850 008.

INNOVATIONS

THE POWERFUL CELL-RENEWING PROPERTIES OF CHLOROPHYLL AND PLANKTON Reviderm Concentrate, another Phyt’s innovation is enriched with oxygenating and cell-renewing chlorophyll and seaweed plankton extracts, providing a powerful energy booster for the skin. Precious Aloe Vera beads release their hydrating power for a more radiant skin.

Reviderm Concentrate is like a breath of fresh air, revitalising dull, tired ‘indoor’ skin giving it new vitality.

Contact Phyt’s Australia 1300 656 627.

APJ 23

COSMETICINGREDIENTS

THE ESCARGOT FACTOR IN SKINCARE

By Tina Viney

RECENTLY, AN UNUSUAL INGREDENT is making its way into high-end serums and skincare products with evidence that it can offer numerous skin benefits. The ingredient is helix aspersa muller glycoconjugates, which is the technical name for the slimy mucus secreted by snails to protect their undersides from cuts, bacteria and sun damage.

The use of snails to promote skin healing goes back to ancient Greece and is attributed to Hippocrates. However, more recently, Chilean farmers who harvested snails for the French escargot market noticed that the skin of their hands looked smoother and younger.

In terms of the cosmetic formulations the Koreans are by far leading the world in using snail mucus prolifically in many of their products, creating interest by other countries, including the US and Australia.

While snail mucus has been used by several manufactures in the West, they have not been quick to advertise the odd ingredient until recent time when evidence through clinical studies are validating the benefits to the skin.

2. WATER CONTENT: Snail mucus contains 91-98% water.

The slime is filtered multiple times to increase its concentration and ensure its purity. Some snail slime products claim to contain as much as 97% snail secretion filtrate. However, the consistency and quality of the snail mucus should also be taken into account when looking for a good product.

3. CULTIVATED SPECIFICALLY FOR COSMETIC PURPOSES: If you are concerned about any harm to the snail, put your mind at ease. Cosmetic snail mucus is normally harvested from lab-grown common garden snails or Cornu Aspersum (previously Helix Aspersa), which is considered an agricultural pest.

4. ANTI-AGEING PROPERTIES: Snail mucin is best known for its anti-ageing properties. It is found to help stimulate the formation of collagen and elastin, protect skin from free radical damage, soothe the skin, repair damaged tissues and restore hydration. It can be used to treat dry skin, wrinkles and stretch marks, acne and rosacea, age spots, burns, scars, razor bumps and even flat warts.

Even with the current hype and some science behind snail mucus extract, it will be good to see more research about how snail extracts work and how well they can penetrate the skin.

A quick search however, will uncover several studies that have identified the skin benefits of snail extracts. Two that I found interesting were: Snail and Skincare – an Uncovered Combination published Jama Dermatology. T Clinical Pro he other one was The Effectiveness of Snail Slime and Chitosan in Wound Healing. Both these studies validated the antioxidant, antimicrobial, healing and anti-ageing benefits of snail mucus so I would have to say the studies are looking positive.

Studies confirm that the antioxidant, antibiotic properties of snail mucus is also effective in healing wounds and damaged skin, it also helps the soothe the skin as well as offer skin whitening benefits - the latter is probably why the Asians love it.

Here is some interesting information about the composition of snail mucus:

Research in skin cells showed that snail extracts can trigger skin cells division, an effect that may account for some of the mucus’s ability to more rapidly heal wounds. Additional, the study found that the skin improved in texture, tone and moisture levels, which is also great news for supporting and protecting skin from environmental and pre-mature chronological ageing.

1. NUTRITIONAL CONTENT: Snail mucus has some amazing nutrients such as hyaluronic acid, glycoprotein, proteoglycans, and antimicrobial and copper peptides, all of which are beneficial to the skin and are commonly used in skincare. However, in snail mucus they are all included in its chemical composition – how extraordinary. No wonder this mucus protects the snail’s skin from damage, infection, dryness and UV rays.

APJ 24

In terms of burns and wound healing, one study conducted a clinical test using the application of a cream containing snail mucus extract twice-a-day on subjects with open burns and wounds. They found that compared to the control group those who used the cream experienced faster skin restoration, improvement in moisture levels and pain alleviation of the skin.

Nature never ceases to amaze us as science is continually identifying incredible combinations of powerful actives found in humble substances, such as snail mucus that work synergistically to provide healing benefits. APJ

RESULTS YOU CAN BE PROUD OF

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COSMEDICELL TECHNOLOGIES 07 5580 0403 cellboneordersau@gmail.com www.cellbone.com.au

MEMBERPROFILE

THE HEALING POWER OF

COMPASSION

BELINDA MERLINO’S STORY

By Tina Viney

WOULD YOU AGREE that social media can be a real timewaster if we aimlessly engage with it without a purpose.

However, it can also provide us with resourceful information and every now and then, we land on a truly inspirational story that can fuel our passion for what we do and touch our heart in a deep and meaningful way.

One such story was featured by Belinda Merlin on Facebook on the 17th April. Belinda is a highly dedicated professional and an amazing woman who runs a very successful business – The Skin Clinic in Concord, NSW. APJ 26

Belinda experienced a moving encounter with one of her clients and she decided to share it with her colleagues. The story was truly touching and very inspirational so we approached her to feature it in APJ as we felt it warranted being shared with as many individuals as possible. We also wanted to honour Belinda for her gesture and showcase some of the beautiful defining moments that our profession allow us to experience, giving us the opportunity to bring value to people’s lives both through our skills, as well as our compassion.

HERE IS BELINDA’S EXPERIENCE “I took this opportunity to recount an experience I had in our clinic. Today I saw a new client, a lady in her 70’s for a facial treatment.

When I escorted her into her treatment room I proceeded with her consultation and asked my usual questions – “do you have any skin concerns you would like me to address during your treatment today?”

Her response was, “I have to tell you a story, and I don’t want to bring the mood down, but my husband bought me this gift voucher for my birthday last April before he passed away, as he knew how much I love doing these things for myself.

I have hung on to this voucher until the last m Clinical Pro inute because it has his name on it and I know he purchased it personally. My birthday is on Tuesday and I am here to honour my late husband.” I responded by telling her I would put my heart and soul into her treatment and that I would give her the best facial I possibly could. With tears in my eyes, I left the room to collect my products for her treatment.

I returned back to the treatment room and proceeded to give her the best treatment with skill, heart and care. I gently also engaged in conversation with a truly beautiful soul - the type of person you just click with. I asked her questions about her life, she asked me questions about mine. At the conclusion of the treatment, she said to me “I want to thank you so much for this experience, I know my husband would be so happy knowing I enjoyed his gift.”

I left the treatment room and returned to the reception. As she handed me the voucher and I gazed at it I saw her late husband’s name on it and the expiry date of 24th April 2018.

When she met me at reception, I handed her back her voucher and I said “I want you to return every year during your birthday week for the same treatment so that this gift never ends. It can’t end here. This voucher will never expire.”

We both stood at reception sobbing for 10 minutes and hugging. My therapists were crying, other guests waiting in reception were crying. It was a truly sad, yet beautiful moment.

This is what I love about what we do and the privilege of also making a difference in people’s lives through human interaction.

Every day my therapists and I will laugh or cry with our guests.

We hear beautiful stories, we hear stories of despair and sometimes heartache. I sit here so emotional as I recount this experience. It was an absolute joy to be able to do this today for my guest and this special moment I will remember forever.

We trust Belinda’s story will inspire you and ignite in you the appreciation of the wonderful opportunities and privilege your profession brings to you to serve precious lives who visit you each day through your skills and your gift of compassion.

Six days later her post received over 200 comments and 400 likes. Belinda has also been inundated with private messages from people she knew Clinical Pro and also complete strangers reaching out to tell her telling her how much her post resonated with them.

A purpose driven life based on your highest values is a guaranteed pathway to success, would you not agree?

APJ

THE SKIN CLINIC CONCORD 11/103 Majors Bay Road Concord NSW 2127 1300 887 097 www.theskinclinic.com.au

APJ 27

INGREDIENTSCIENCE

WHAT’S ALL THE FUSS ABOUT TURMERIC?

By Dr Donna Marcel, phD, Co-founder of Dermatonics

Donna Marcal is a scientist with a PhD in biochemistry.

Her husband Helder Marcal, has a PhD in biomedical engineering and tissue engineering technologies, specialising in stem cell regenerative medicine therapeutics. They have over 10 years’ experience in skincare and have been involved in improving skincare formulations for various companies through new advances in technology. They have a passion for purity and natural ingredients, as well as ensuring the actives can deliver a high level of skin penetration and efficacy.

In this article, Donna presents an overview of the popular ingredient turmeric, compares it to curcumin and discusses the latest research in the benefit of this ingredient and its bioavailability.

YOU HAVE probably seen it just about everywhere you look turmeric lattes, turmeric tea, turmeric stalls at your local market and even turmeric in your skincare. Yes, skincare products! Why is there such a fuss about turmeric lately? Well, to be honest, it’s a pretty amazing natural ingredient. Here are some of the key points to know about turmeric and what to watch out for.

WHERE DOES IT COME FROM? Turmeric is a yellow powder that is harvested from the roots (rhizomes) of plants from the Genus Curcuma, using the roots and its extracts of Curcuma for health benefits and disease management has been a practice for centuries. The practice of using Curcuma in Indonesia is called JAMU, in Ayurvedic traditional medicine, the use of turmeric in Hindi is called HALDI and in South-Eastern Asia the practice is referred to as HIANG JUANG. So, if it has been around for so long, why such a resurgence of interest now?

Part of this is due to our scientific advances and the ability

APJ 28

to pinpoint what the active constituents in the rhizomes of Curcuma species do on a more molecular level, backing up what traditional medicine has been telling us for centuries. Another reason is the popularity of and consumer demand for natural, or alternative remedies that can sort out our ailments.

WHAT ARE THE DIFFERENT TYPES OF TURMERIC AND WHAT IS DIFFERENT ABOUT THEM? Turmeric is properly known as the genus Curcuma and there are about 130 different species. Most of the turmeric you see and hear about is Curcuma longa (turmeric) and comes from India. This is the turmeric you would typically find in the grocery store or specialty store spice aisle. Another species traditionally used for its many health benefits is Curcuma aromatica (wild turmeric). These, and many other species in the Curcuma genus are used for the active compounds from its rhizome called curcuminoids. The most effective of the three curcuminoids is curcumin and will be referred to from here for simplicity.

One very unique species from the Javanese region of Indonesia, is called Curcuma xanthorrhiza (Javanese turmeric). It is also referred to in Javanese as ‘temulawak’. It only flourishes well at an altitude of about 1500 m or greater and in a tropical climate.

What makes C. xanthorrhiza stand out from the other species is the additional active compound contained in the rhizome called xanthorrhizol. This makes it a very potent active natural ingredient and research is discovering some very amazing properties.

WHAT DO CURCUMIN AND XANTHORRIZOL DO FOR US? Curcumin is the main active ingredient in most Curcuma species. In traditional medicine, curcumin has been used for centuries for treating liver diseases, aiding in digestion,

treating skin conditions and for muscle and joint issues. Several scientific studies have now proven that curcumin has antiinflammatory, neuroprotective, anti-cancer properties and can help with digestive, skin, lung and arthritic conditions. It is important to note that curcumin can also interrupt coagulation pathways, therefore, if someone is on anti-coagulants, caution should be taken in consuming large amounts, or very concentrated turmeric, or Curcuma based products orally. As with any oral product, your physician should be consulted.

Xanthorrhizol is the most abundant active compound from the rhizomes of Curcuma xanthorrhiza and also the most active. Studies are finding that the beneficial properties of xanthorrhizol are about 8-10 times more potent than curcumin.

To date, the multiple beneficial properties of xanthorrhizol include anti-cancer, antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, blood sugar regulation, blood pressure regulation, antiplatelet activities, neuroprotection, and protection from liver disease. It is no wonder that C. xanthorrhiza is such a beneficial natural ingredient that is being investigated for pharmacological properties that highly outweigh the benefits and risks of some synthetic drugs.

BIOAVAILABILITY OF CURCUMIN Now that we have discussed the amazing properties of the actives in Curcuma, we need to talk bioavailability and uptake.

Drinking your turmeric latte and adding heaps of turmeric to your cooking is all well and good, but is it actually doing anything? It depends on the purity of your turmeric and what other spices you are putting in your food along with it. The percentage of curcumin in turmeric powder is typically quite low, in fact less than 5%. Curcumin, when contained in turmeric powder form, does not get absorbed very well on its own.

Consuming black pepper, which contains the active ingredient piperine, helps with the absorption of curcumin from powder.

Eating the root as a whole gives more benefit as the natural oils in the root help with the absorption of the curcumin and the whole root will also contain other beneficial active components.

Preparing the Curcuma extracts as a purified oil is one of the best ways to utilise this ingredient, especially for skincare products.

WHAT CAN CURCUMA EXTRACT DO FOR THE SKIN? Since Curcuma extracts have quite amazing anti-inflammatory, wound healing and antioxidant properties, this makes it quite an attractive ingredient for skin care products. In terms of a topical skin care product, curcumin is approximately 370 Da and xanthorrhizol approximately 220 Da and therefore should penetrate the skin relatively well. Curcumin and xanthorrhizol can block reactive oxygen species formation and also inhibit cyclooxygenases and other enzymes in inflammation pathways. In addition, curcumin can inhibit the production of several inflammatory cytokines. Xanthorrhizol also has high antimicrobial properties, including against the acne-causing bacteria P. acnes, making it great ingredient as a topical acne treatment.

In conclusion, yes turmeric does deserve a bit of recognition for its actives that hold amazing properties. The key is to know how your Curcuma is prepared and the best way to consume or apply it. Are you consuming whole turmeric powder, extract purified curcumin and how has it been extracted? You also need to consider the co-consumption or application of piperine to assist the uptake of curcumin. Don’t forget that turmeric powders and oils can stain (even your skin) yellow, so it is important to ensure you are not applying pure turmeric powders or oils directly to the skin. If Curcuma extracts are appropriately extracted and prepared in a topical product, the benefits of this ingredient are numerous. APJ

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ADVERTORIAL

TATTOO REMOVAL and the SAFETY CONSIDERATIONS UP UNTIL A FEW YEARS AGO, laser treatment was the only way to get rid of tattoos, whether cosmetic tattoos or body tattoos, but that’s not the only way anymore. There is now a new and more gentle approach.

Deanne Carney is a qualified and experienced cosmetic tattooist with also a degree in education for secondary school with 20 years teaching experience. Deanne is also a distributor of the well-established SKINIAL non-laser tattoo removal method, which is gaining momentum as an effective solution for individuals who wish to get rid of their body tattoos, or cosmetic tattoos.

THE ISSUE OF SAFETY In this article she wishes to share some light about the issue of safety using various methods of tattoo removal as this is a common concern that potential practitioners and business owners who are investigating the SKINIAL METHOD regularly ask.

When we are addressing tattoo removal, regardless as to the method that we are using – laser or through topical agents, there are several issues that must be considered in order to determine the suitability of the candidate to undergo a removal procedure.

The first issue is to determine the level of existing damage or trauma to the skin. This is important because if we are endeavouring to removal ink permanently embedded into the skin this will stress the skin, so it is important to determine if the skin is capable of undertaking the removal procedure without reacting in any way.

Second, it is important to understand that tattoos, especially those who have been done many years ago, can include heavy metals and once broken and fragmented, will be toxic to the body. We are trying to mobilise toxic substance, therefore there will be a level of trauma to the skin. It is therefore important to determine the overall health of the individual and any medication they are on that may compromise their ability to tolerate the procedure. Client suitability

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must be thoroughly investigated before proceeding with any treatment.

Once you have determined that this individual will be a suitable candidate let’s now look at the issue of safety.

With the SKINIAL METHOD we are using lactic acid to draw the colour pigments out of the body, externally. This is a preferred option as you are ensuring that any heavy metals, or other carcinogenic substance are not micronised and disbursed through the lymphatic system, but released externally. The risks with eliminating the pigments internal through the lymphatic system is that some particles may become lodged in the body during the elimination process. If you are removing tattoo ink through the laser method there is no way that you can guarantee that this will not occur. For this reason, acids that can break up ink and release them externally are being recognised as the more advantageous method for tattoo removal.

As with any procedure, there are always risks, so it is important before choosing a tattoo removal method to investigate and question these risks and how they can be mitigated.

The SKINIAL METHOD is manufactured and carefully researched in Europe with a strong history of safety since 2009. When correct protocols are adhered to you can be assured that positive outcomes can be achieved for each and every candidate. I am aware that there are other methods that also use lactic acid however, the SKINIAL solutions have been patented to meet with the highest possible safety standards and to guard against any damage or scarring to the skin.

It is important to understand that lactic acid is also produced in our body so in that sense it is biomimetic substance and the body will not reject it as a foreign substance.

When I conducted my research on tattoo removal methods I looked at different options and then came across SKINIAL tattoo removal method. This product has a long history in Europe for its safety and its effectiveness in removal of tattoo ink through a natural, more gentle approach. The company offered great support and comprehensive training and was a very cost-effect method and investment. In essence, SKINIAL achieves great results through a plant-based natural product. In just 30 minutes after the treatment the body has no residue and the pigment is released externally from the surface, not absorbed internally. I was very impressed with the company, the product and I am getting great success with all my treatments, so much so that I was offered the distribution to train others and promote the SKINIAL METHOD of tattoo removal in Australia and help businesses achieve the same results.

Tattoo removal is an amazing procedure that can transform lives and statistics confirm that one in three people that have had tattoos will wish to remove them at some stage so it is definitely a growth opportunity for practitioners, as well as business owners.

For further details on introducing the SKINIAL Method in your clinic please contact:

DEANNE CARNEY 042 3621 764 australia@skinial.com

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TRAINING

SCALP MICROPIGMENTATION The emerging new procedure that is changing lives An Interview with Caitlin James

CAITLIN JAMES is a highly committed practitioner who has been instrumental in single-handedly forging a new area of specialisation in scalp micropigmentation. Her commitment and qualifications have earned her global recognition. In this article she shares her journey in this amazing specialised are of practice.

WHAT IS SCALP MICRO-PIGMENTATION?

Scalp micro-pigmentation is the placement of inks or pigments into the scalp to give the illusion of a full shaved head of hair, or adding the illusion of density to thinning longer hair. We also use Scalp Micro-pigmentation (also known as SMP) to camouflage scalp scars and treat those who wish to have a nonsurgical hair restoration. This procedure is said to be around 15 years old, but only eight years ago became mainstream in the UK and USA. As the technique has evolved and improved, now Scalp Micro-pigmentation results have never been better.

There is a huge amount of male SMP practitioners worldwide who were involved in the industry from the beginning coming in from a body art tattoo background. We also see a large number of male practitioners who underwent the procedure themselves before wanting to learn and offer the procedure to others.

As this is a relatively new industry here in Australia, I feel there is a real need for a governing body to represent and help these practitioners as they enter the market. Although at Scalp

Female Before & After APJ 32

Micro-Pigmentation Australia we require our student to hold a certificate in cosmetic tattoo, other students can learn online or through other providers that do not have any pre-requisites.

This specialised area needs to be taken care of in its infancy to offer help and support where needed so SMP results are at a high standard. We are proud of APAN for listening to us and taking initiative to create our own membership classification for Scalp Micro-pigmentation division in order to offer this segment focused support.

APJ Q1: CAITLIN, TELL US A LITTLE ABOUT YOUR COSMETIC TATTOOING BACKGROUND AND WHY YOU DECIDED TO SPECIALISE IN SCALP MICROPIGMENTATION? I had a keen interest in the health and beauty industry after leaving college. My first training was in remedial massage followed by a Diploma of Beauty Therapy. After working in the beauty industry for a number of years my interest turned to medical-based procedures where I worked in a laser clinic before starting with a cosmetic surgery here in Adelaide. At this practice I worked in administration, surgery accreditation, practice management and I now have 11 years’ experience as a hair transplant technician. I was certified in 2011 at the ISHRS (International Society of Hair Transplant Surgery) at the annual conference in Alaska.

Alopecia Before & After

Our hair transplant surgeon Dr Marzola has been a wonderful mentor throughout this time. He has taught me so much about the history of hair restoration surgery, hair loss and surgical techniques. By being a key leader in the International Society of Hair Restoration Surgery, he has shown me the importance of being highly committed to professional development and in making learning a life-long pursuit - two key traits that I run my business by.

When I began working as a hair transplant tech the procedure and process was fascinating – the attention to detail was incredible, the technique was tedious and repetitious - call me crazy but I loved it. Working alongside the Hair Transplant surgery, it has given me the opportunity to perform lifechanging results for my clients and patients. Being recognised for the results I can achieve artistically by leading medical professionals is very satisfying and bridges my SMP and the Hair Transplant Surgery work perfectly.

My scalp micro-pigmentation career began in 2015, learning basic skills at the Australian College of Cosmetic Tattoo and later received my diploma of cosmetic tattoo with Sydney Beauty and Dermal Institute. I went on to complete further study in SMP travelling to Phoenix Arizona to spend time with world-renowned SMP practitioners Bryce Cleveland and Joe Taylor, who mentored me and expanded my skills and technique. Back in 2015 training opportunities were very

Shaved Hair Before & After

limited as many companies only offered training as apart of a franchisee agreement due to many trade secrets including the inks, needles and technique. I then spent time in Seattle with Pam Neighbours from Trillium Ink who has over 30 years cosmetic tattoo experience and again refined my skills.

In 2017 I travelled to Birmingham UK to completing a master class program, perfecting my skills on advanced techniques for Facial Stubble Replication, Alopecia Design and learning new ink and pigment techniques. I spent time in the UK with the world leaders in Scalp Micro-pigmentation, Paul Clark and Simon Lane from the Brandwood Clinic. I presented at the first independent body Scalp Micro-pigmentation Conference hosted by Scalp Guru in Leeds in the United Kingdom. I presented a topic well known to me on hair transplant procedures and how well they can be combined with SMP and how SMP can be used to camouflage past scalp scarring.

I feel my experience from hair transplant and artistic ability with Scalp Micro-pigmentation ensures that my clients receive the very best results.

APJ Q2: CAN YOU DEFINE THE CONDITIONS AND NEEDS THAT CAN BENEFIT FROM THIS PROCEDURE? There is a vast variety of client this procedure is suitable for.

Our main clientele are those men who wish to wear their hair

Wig Shaved Head Before & After APJ 33

this procedure for around 12 months (I first met him when he was 17) and was keen to proceed once he turned 18. Each sitting was six-hours and here we completed five sessions to give enough depth and texture to the look. We finalised his new look and completely camouflaged the small amount of hair remaining on his crown area. He had a going away party with his friends who had a day at the beach – he told me it was the first time he went body boarding and it was incredible.

The scalp micro-pigmentation meant that he did not to have to worry about his wig with the water or friends finding out he was wearing one. Turning up with a new look meant that he is starting the next phase of life on a positive note, not limiting him to certain activities as the wig had previously.

shaved but would like the look of a full head of hair. Men and women wishing to enhance hair transplant density, female pattern hair loss, alopecia and it’s many forms. Men with longer hair who wish to make it appear thicker. Camouflaging scalp scars from accidents to cosmetic surgeries. Cleft pallet scar camouflage and facial skin graft stubble camouflage. Beard hair replication is our newest method of SMP. We find that hair-loss in general is an extremely sensitive issue for many. Our clients can become quite emotional during the consulting process when they explain their hair loss history. It is important to really listen to these stories as it helps us understand our client.

Unfortunately, there are many hair-loss products, treatments and devices which don’t grow the hair back to our client’s expectations and while what we offer isn’t hair, the illusion of a full head of hair is life-changing for many.

APJ Q3: THIS IS A POST-GRADUATE COURSE SO WHAT ARE THE PER-REQUISITES TRAINING IN THIS PROCEDURE? The training we offer at Scalp MicroPigmentation Australia requires students to hold a certificate in cosmetic tattooing and an infection control certificate.

APJ Q4: HOW DOES SCALP MICROPIGMENTATION PROCEDURE ASSIST BUSINESSES TO INCREASE THEIR REVENUE? By adding a new service to an existing business this opens up the opportunity to further enhance the lives of many that experience hair loss. Many cosmetic tattoo clinics have a higher majority of female clients than male. SMP allows these businesses to offer a procedure for the male clientele also generating a bigger client portfolio. This is a relatively untapped market and as the beauty trends for men continue to increase, so will the popularity of this treatment.

APJ Q5: CAN YOU SHARE WITH US A CASE STUDY OF SOMEONE WHOSE LIFE WAS TRANSFORMED BY HAVING THIS PROCEDURE? One particular client stands out in my mind when I am asked this question. It is about an 18-year-old who had been living with alopecia areata since he was four. He had been wearing a freedom wig since primary school to give him more confidence among his friends and only took his wig off at home and around family. Living a life with a wig gave him confidence, but was also limiting to certain activities, sports, swimming and was particularly hot in summer.

After graduating year 12 he received a placement for training with the Military in Sydney, he wanted to turn up and present himself with a new look with no wig. He had been looking into

APJ 34

A second stand-out client was one that had been through major hair transplant surgeries back in the 70’s when he was a mere 22 years old only at the beginning of hair loss. The hair loss surgeon performed a hair transplant that at the time was state-of-the-art, but these ‘pluggy’ looking hairs soon became apparent as his natural hair continued its hair loss pattern. He decided to remove these grafts, and slowly row-by-row over five years, a plastic surgeon excised row of the plugs until they were gone. This left him with a scar across his forehead from temple to temple. He decided to opt for a wig to hide the scar and give the appearance of a full head of hair for the next 30 years.

Now at the age of 50, the wig does not imitate the look of ageing and he felt he didn’t wish to continue down the path of dying his hair, tapes, glue etc. Before making another major decision to go with further surgery, he researched current hair loss techniques, became involved in many hair loss forums asking for advice, sought help form an independent hair loss advisor/mentor in the USA. He met with every transplant surgeon in his state as well as two overseas surgeons. He received conflicting information on the amount of donor hair available to have further treatment and realistic expectations of using body/beard hair.

On one of the forums he was suggested by a member to investigate scalp micro-pigmentation. He went to the web once more to start researching. We began consulting with him over the phone and with photos before he made his decision to come to Adelaide for treatment. Over three-day trips to Adelaide we build up the layers and gave him the result he was after, camouflaging the scar across his front hairline, donor scars to the back of his head and finally the illusion of a full head of hair. It is hard to describe how much of a change we have seen in him! He explains it as a chapter of his life that has finally closed. All the forums, researching, appointments for years on end consumed him. We have counted now three holidays he has taken to Thailand since his SMP treatment over a year ago. He feels his life has begun.

Sculp micro-pigmentation is such a rewarding profession, because it crosses over into assisting individuals with health issues that have adversely affected their self-esteem.

Having mastered the technique and specialised in it, I would like to train other cosmetic tattooists to provide this much needed service through their practice. I would also like to instigate and support a community of practice for those who wish to also specialise in this area and I am thrilled that APAN is giving me this opportunity. APJ To learn more about training with Caitlin James please contact: SCALP MICRO-PIGMENTATION AUSTRALIA 08 7222 1121 smpaustralia@gmail.com

Are you interested in bringing Scalp MicroPigmentation into your business?

For experienced cosmetic tattooists, we offer a 4 day training class in Scalp MicroPigmentation

PRICE from $6600

Prerequisites Class offered to cosmetic tattooists with two years industry experience

Caitlin James Award Winning Scalp MicroPigmentation Practitioner based in Adelaide Australia

PH: 08 7222 1121

www.smpadelaide.com.au

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APAN AESTHETICS CONFERENCE 2018

Achieve Excellence in Business and Practice August 13, 2018 Sydney, Pullman Hotel

CONSTANTLY CHANGING and evolving the aesthetics industry brings new opportunities, as well as threats. We have heard your concerns and this year’s APAN Aesthetics Conference in Sydney is promising to address some common key concerns that are causing industry unrest. We are stepping things up and have an amazing educational program that will offer you answers and provide you with new tools to move forward.

•

Strategies to improve your communication with clients and staff

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Understand why staff respond negatively at times and how to turn their behaviour around to a positive one in minutes

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Behaviour strategies to create permanent positive change

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How to improve staff productivity and hit targets more consistently

This year there will also be a twist as we introduce the talented Joanna Melas who will create for us an amazing ambience and inspire us with some of her musical talent.

We can assure you this will be a powerful and memorable experience. Here is the program:

10:00–10:30AM MORNING TEA BREAK CONNECTING THE DOTS – TOP STRAGEGIES TO BUILD YOUR BRAND IN DISRUPTED TIMES Gillian Fish – Founder and Director of The 6AM Agency

8:15AM REGISTRATION AND NETWORKING Collect your Delegates Kit at the registration desk and network with other colleagues and exhibitors.

9:00-9:15AM CEO’s ADDRESS Tina Viney will open the conference and provide a brief industry update.

EXTRAORDINARY LEADERSHIP FOR EVERYDAY MANAGERS Phillip Fernandez – human strategist, author, business developer 9:15 – 10:00AM You have the best marketing strategy, social media strategy and all the performance tools and incentives in the world, yet still you are not getting the results you anticipated from your staff. However, if your people-strategy is not solid then nothing will work effectively.

Phillip Fernandez is an expert human strategist and business developer. He will present some of the leading communication strategies for improving client engagement as well as staff performance.

In this lecture you will learn:

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10:30 – 11:15AM The rules of client engagement are changing and deciding which path or strategy will best serve you can be confusing.

Learn the secrets of how legacy brands stay current in an increasingly competitive market and the best way to connect with new clients and retain your existing ones.

Gillian Fish has extensive experience in the highly competitive arena of social media and brand developer, with specific skills in building businesses and organisations in the medicine and beauty sector. Her company, The 6am Agency consists of a highly skilled and innovative team who has transformed businesses through their expertise and high commitment to excellence.

In this lecture you will learn: •

Key trends in the marketing landscape, which are essential to brand evolution and survival

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Learn core needs of millennials and how to incorporate in your PR and Social marketing

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Understand the reason for data combined with creativity and why communications strategies need to include datadriven insights

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Gain a topline overview of best practice content planning and execution for true engagement.

11:15AM – 12:00PM NETWORKING BREAK

UPDATES ON NSW REGULATIONS Anne Bolton - Senior Policy Analyst Environmental Health Branch NSW

POST-INFLAMMATORY HYPERPIGMENATION DIAGNOSIS AND SOLUTIONS Jacine Greenwood – International Educator

12:00 – 12:45PM

1:35 – 2:20PM

As a professional you are required to be fully informed and committed and compliant with regulatory requirements as set out by State legislation for the procedures you are performing. These may be dermal needling, cosmetic tattooing, microblading or you may be also offering injectable treatments. APAN is acutely aware of many practitioners and business owners who have limited understanding of these requirements and are failing to comply with these requirements including possessing the appropriation infection control qualifications. This could lead to enforcement action being taken and extensive fines.

Anne Bolton works in the Health Risk and Regulations Unit of Health Protection NSW. She is responsible for developing policies and programs for the protection of public health and assisted with the development of Public Health Regulation 2012. Ann has producted educational material and an Infection Control DVD to assist beauty therapists, cosmetic tattooists and practitioners who perform skin penetration.

In this lecture you will learn: •

Recent changes and updates in the personal appearance service legislation

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What procedures require a license?

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The risks of non-compliance for your industry

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Accessing resource documents for your business

12:45PM – 1:30PM LUNCH BREAK INSPIRATIONAL PRESENTATION Joanna Melas

1:30 - 1:35PM

Melanin is the primary determinant of skin colour. Postinflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) is an acquired overproduction of melanin occurring after injury or cutaneous inflammation. It frequently affects skin-of-colour patients, particularly those with a Fitzpatrick of 3 and above.

There are multiple pathways potentially involved in the formation of pigmentation in the skin. Learn specifically what happens in Post Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation biologically in the skin and which cosmetic actives have clinical relevance in the treatment of this condition. Jacine Greenwood holds a Bachelor of Nursing as well as several industry-specific qualifications including a Diploma in Cosmetic Chemistry. She has 22 years of experience and is internationally recognised as an educator.

In this lecture you will learn: •

Identify the pathways of pigmentation formation in the skin

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Understand the role inflammation plays in Post Inflammatory Pigmentation

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Effectively identifying high risk clients

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Cosmetic Actives that treat Post Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation

2:20 - 2:45PM NETWORKING BREAK UNDERSTANDING ANAESTHETICS AND THE SAFETY IMPERATIVE Chris Testa – Compounding Pharmacist and Lecturer 2.45PM -3.30PM Many new procedures such as skin needling, cosmetic tattooing and microbrading as well as various laser treatments can contribute to varying levels of pain and

APJ 37

discomfort that need to be managed to ensure your client or patient will feel comfortable to return back to you for on-going procedures. New advances in compounding anaesthetics have identified ways to achieve safety with relatively low-level anaesthetics. With the current regulatory restrictions in the application of topical anaesthetics education has never been more important.

There is a wide-spread frustration as business owners seek to employ highly qualified and competent staff to take their treatments to the next level. On the other hand, degree qualified professionals feel that salon owners do not understand their skills and capabilities, restricting them to work within antiquated protocols that are limited in their treatment outcomes.

As a highly qualified and experience compounding chemists, formulator and a lecturer at Griffith University Chris Testa is renowned as a true authority in the area of compounded medications, education and in finding ways to work effectively within the regulatory guidelines. He developed two professional development course for APAN that are gaining recognition as practitioners are gaining a comprehensive understanding on how anaesthetics work, how to measure their requirements, how they are metabolised in the body and their safety imperative.

This very contentious topic will be debated and discussed by a panel of industry professionals. They will present the problems as they see them and recommend solutions to help the industry move forward. Come prepared to put forward your questions to the panel as together we explore workable solutions to these very pertinent issues. This is a great opportunity to also put forward your recommendations.

In this lecture you will learn: •

New advances in topical anaesthetics

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The current status of the regulations

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What are the risks of systemic absorption and how to guard against them

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How education can help you create a better client experience

PULLMAN HYDE PARK is centrally located with easy access to transport and cost-effective parking. Join us at this beautifully appointed hotel and expect to get the five-star treatment at the APAN Conference.

3:30 – 4:00 PM AFTERNOON TEA

SECURE YOUR EARLY BIRDS REGISTRATION SPECIAL: 20TH JULY Members: $239 Non-Members: $259

FROM 21ST JULY: TRANSITIONING FROM BEAUTY THERAPY TO SKIN AND AGE-MANAGEMENT Forum: Gay Wardle, Helen Gerasimou, Nancy Abdou, Rita Massimo 4:00 – 4:45PM

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Members: $259 Non-members: $279 PULLMAN HYDE PARK is located at 36 College Street, Sydney. To book your special accommodation rate of $229 per room please quote our special booking No. CODE: AES120818 to receive your discount rate.

Aesthetics Conference Sydney 2018 Monday, 13th August INTRODUCING INSPIRATIONAL SINGER/SONGWRITER JOANNA MELAS

Experience Leading Education with a TWIST! This year APAN’s Conference will deliver a new level of depth in educational content as well as fun, through the introduction of new interactive activities adding extra value and contributing to a memorable experience.

THIS ONE-DAY CONFERENCE EVENT WILL FEATURE: •

Leading educational topics

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Industry expert discussion panel

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Staff Recognition Awards

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Latest scientific developments

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Separate Workshop for Staff presenting “The winning soft-sell strategies”

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Leading social media and business strategies

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Fun and dynamic networking

FOR FURTHER INFORMATION AND TO REGISTER VISIT WWW.APANCONF.COM/SYDNEY OR PHONE 07 5593 0360 36 COLLEGE ST ON HYDE PARK SYDNEY 2010 AUSTRALIA | 02 9361 8400

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BUSINESSMANAGEMENT

ACHIEVING THE WINNING MINDSET IMPROVE STAFF PERFORMANCE AND BUSINESS GROWTH An interview with Phillip Fernandez

NEW RESEARCH in neuro-science is identifying amazing tools to help improve performance and raise staff productivity.

Learning to apply these tools will allow you to run a harmonious work environment that leads to business growth as an easier and more secure task. But how does this approach differ from standard business coaching and what does it promise to deliver?

Phillip Fernandez is a visionary leader, human strategist, management consultant, author and an Advisory Board Member of Directors Institute with over 25 years’ experience and has helped many salons and clinics in the hair and beauty industry. In this interview Phillip shares with us the value of these tools in helping business maximise staff performance and improve business growth.

APAN Q1: IN THE PAST THE FOCUS IN ACHIEVING BUSINESS RESULTS WAS BASED ON SETTING SALES TARGETS AND MEASURING PERFORMANCE THROUGH QUARTERLY KEY PERFORMANCE INDICATORS, BUT NEVER LOOKED AT THE INDIVIDUAL AS A PERSON. WHY IS THIS APPROACH ON ITS OWN NOT ACHIEVING THE SAME LEVEL OF PERFORMANCE AS IN THE PAST?

actually achieve it? Not achieving targets consistently breeds a negative mental attitude of the unattainable that can also lead to “why even try” attitude. More importantly, is the question WHY they are not achieving targets and how they can create consistency in achieving their sales targets. It is the WHY factor that interests me and this is the area that I specialise in - I look at the unconscious hindrances where our self-belief, selfesteem, confidence issues and the stories we tell ourselves that contribute to our negative outcomes. I work on the CAUSE (WHY)and not the SYMPTOM (KPI). By overcoming the causes, the symptoms will take care of themselves.

APAN Q2: WHAT IS THE SCIENCE OF HUMAN BEHAVIOUR (EMOTIONAL INTELLIGENCE, NLP AND MINDFULNESS) CONFIRMING ABOUT NEW AND MORE EFFECTIVE WAYS IN ACHIEVING BETTER PERFORMANCE? WHAT NEW APPROACH WILL ALLOW US TO IMPROVE STAFF DEVELOPMENT AND ENGAGEMENT?

Phillip: Good question Tina. You see most businesses understand that they need to set sales targets and as a rule, the expectation from staff is to achieve four times their wage.

Now they might get this occasionally, particularly in the busy periods of Christmas and whenever a promotion is on, but over a 48-week period excluding four-weeks of annual leave, their average weekly figures are usually far below this expectation.

They usually are around 2.5 times their wage. This is the true indication of the value of their employee.

Phillip: As a Human Strategist and a NLP Practitioner I have a passion for human behaviour and have become an authority on behaviour and communication. These are the two most important factors in creating or achieving anything in this world. NLP stands for Neuro- Linguistic Programming.

Neuro relates to the mind, which we experience through our five senses. Linguistic relates to the language and other non-verbal communication that our brain codes and gives meaning. For example, a non-verbal communication like a hand shake is a gesture of greetings, goodwill and respect. So, the programming records in our database to let us remember this behaviour and its meaning. Therefore, whenever someone puts their hand out to you, we respond automatically.

You see, the problem is that management and employees all know what is expected of them but, why is it that only a few

When dealing with staff development and staff engagement we need to first understand what is happening at the unconscious

APJ 40

level and then choose to change behaviour and language consciously. Using these principles is a very effective way in tackling bad habits, negativity and even attitudes that are resistance to change. One huge benefit when this happens is that it allows for ‘Behavioural Flexibility’. This is being openminded to look at one’s fears that inhibit them from accepting new concepts and embracing new ways of looking at challenges and opportunities.

APAN Q3: HOW DOES YOUR TRAINING DIFFER FROM CONVENTIONAL BUSINESS COACHING? WHY DOES IT OFFER ADDITIONAL TO THE TRADITIONAL FINANCIAL TARGET APPROACH THAT RELIES ON INCENTIVES FOR ACHIEVE PERFORMANCE? Phillip: Conventional business coaching covers the essentials in running a successful business. Sales targets, Marketing, Profit and Loss, Retailing, Policies and Procedures, Social Media, etc.

These are all great and must be looked at, however the one element and the biggest asset to any business is the Human Capital. This is where we look at behaviour, passion, challenges, fears, mindfulness that influence communication that drive or hinder staff from achieving the procedures and the KPIs. I start with the human component in a business first and then move to other areas of the business. Once we have secured that their mindset is right we have established a solid foundation to build success on. My 4Ps of success are PEOPLE, PASSION, PERFORMANCE, PROFIT. If you find people who are passionate and will perform because they want to the profits are much easier to achieve.

By creating the right employee ownership as a permanent mindset and behaviour you will achieve proactive and productive staff that value the feeling of winning, rather than only perform when there is an incentive carrot dangling at them. Sometimes even the carrot does not work.

APAN Q4: CAN YOU GIVE US SOME CASE HISTORIES OF HOW BUSINESSES AND CORPORATIONS HAVE BEEN TRANSFORMED BY IMPLEMENTING HUMAN BEHAVIOUR TOOLS AND STRATEGIES? Phillip: There have been many companies and businesses that have been transformed in the way they conduct themselves and their business. For privacy reasons I cannot divulge the names of my clients, however one thing that they all have in common is that they now have the right people in their business that have taken ownership and want to be winners.

The CEOs and business owners have also changed their mindset and behaviours that has contributed to creating changed behaviour in their people. They have a strong people culture, and also know how to properly deal with employees that are not performing. These principles when mastered, are powerful tools to help staff overcome their fears in having regular Staff Appraisals. They also now have effective performance tools that are clear and simple for their employees, so they are able to embrace the meaning of being firm, fair, transparent and clear.

One business I worked with went from 15 down to 10 passionate and productive staff and increased their turnover by 20% in the second year. They also dropped their wage costs to 38%, purely by adopting the principles of behavioural flexibility.

TWO-DAY WORKSHOP APAN is hosting a two-day TRANSFORMATION LEADERSHIP MASTERCLASS with Phillip Fernandez. Register today and gain the skills to transform your staff into productive employees and elevate your business’s success to a higher level. Register visit www.apanetwork.com or phone 07 5593 0360.

APJ 41

APJ

INTRODUCING THE NEW SKILLS THAT ARE TRANSFORMING BUSINESSES

TRANSFORMATION LEADERSHIP MASTERCLASS 1-2 OCTOBER, SYDNEY

Why is it that some businesses are thriving, while others are struggling and blaming it on the economy? Experts confirm that the rules of business are changing and those who are still implementing the old ways are experiencing challenges. There is now a new communication language that when mastered will transform staff performance, client engagement and business growth.

Phillip Fernandez is the Director of Wizard Business Consulting, Human Strategist, author and a highly sort-after speaker, trainer, business and personal-development coach with over 25 years-experience. His training has transformed several multi-national companies in Australia, New Zealand, Europe, Asia and North America. He has left his mark on companies such as Schwarzkopf, L’Oréal, Revlon, Redken and Esselte and also has extensive experience working with salons and clinics to achieve optimum staff performance and business growth.

This amazing two-day interactive TRANSFORMATION LEADERSHIP MASTERCLASS will include new scientifically-validated content that will enhance personal development, staff performance, client engagement and business growth.

DAY 1: IT’S ALL ABOUT YOU AND YOUR PERSONAL STYLE

DAY 2: THE LANGUAGE AND TOOLS TO IMPROVE AND MANAGE PERFORMANCE

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Tools to explore your behaviour and identify fears and biases that make up your present management style.

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Learn how to turn poor performers into positive, productive employees, and good employees to become even better.

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Identify if your management/leadership style is successfully taping into the inner emotional state of your employees to improve behaviour and performance.

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Learn how to create continuous employee ownership of their behaviour and performance without the need to constantly dangle incentives to achieve results.

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Gain effective and proven communication skills that will help you connect powerfully with others and learn how your mindset and language can play key roles in the art of conversation and engagement.

Master Constructive Feedback and Staff Appraisals through the art of open and balanced conversations that brings the best in your staff.

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Learn why adapting the right mindset and understanding of human behaviour first, will help create positive change in others.

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Learn how to get difficult staff to become part of the solution.

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You will learn how to manage workplace conflict and identify behavioural keys.

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Learn the leadership culture that fosters employee engagement and productivity.

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Learn how the art of behavioural flexibility and management transparency enhances communication and results.

WHERE

WHEN

COST

Sydney (address to be confirmed)

1 – 2 OCTOBER 9am – 4.30pm

SPECIAL APAN price $1100 (normally $2800).

REGISTER TODAY!

www.apanetwork.com or 07 5593 0360 APJ 42

This course will transform how you think and how others respond to you. You will gain the skills of the new language and behaviour to achieve unprecedented success with people and business.

APAN stands for High Standards and Best Practice

BE RECOGNISED AS THE BEST

Here is why smart business owners turn to APAN for advice: “In all my years in the industry I have never experienced a professional body that is so knowledgeable, easy to access and provides me with expert advice and solutions to some of my most challenging problems in my business. APAN has saved me thousands of dollars in legal fees and I have been able to source a wide range of quality documents to ensure my business is run efficiently and is fully-compliant with regulations. I now have peace of mind when dealing with staffing issues, client complaints and identifying ways of staying one-step-ahead of my competition. Their advice is professional, comprehensive, accurate and extensive.

The APAN ARAP and CTARP registrations further validate our staffs’ credentials and gives us a point-of-difference.

We pride ourselves on our qualifications and commitment to best practice. When an external industry standards body can validate this, it gives our clients confidence that their needs are in the best hands. APAN is recognised as the peak body that fights for us at all levels, including the difficult task of regulations. Membership fees are affordable. They provide me with the best investment for my business.” Jane Bishop, WA.

MEMBERSHIP HAS A VARIETY OF CLASSIFICATIONS FOR BUSINESSES AND PRACTITIONERS A Specialists Trademarked Registration Program offers additional recognition. These categories are subject to evidence of qualifications: •

APAN Registered Aesthetics Practitioner (ARAP)

•

Cosmetic Tattoo APAN Registered Practitioner (CTAP)

Why you should become an APAN Member?

EXPERT SUPPORT | REGULATIONS COMPLIANCE | REGULATORY REPRESENTATION | CONFERENCES AND WORKSHOPS | APJ JOURNAL | INSURANCE PROTECTION | BUSINESS SUPPORT

Make recognition of your professionalism your competitive advantage. Join today.

AT IC T TOO ET

PRACTIT I

ER ON

APA N

ARAP

R AN EGIST AP

C NER OSM IO

AESTHET I

PRACT ED IT ER

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REGISTERE

Contact APAN for further details: 07 5593 0360 | info@apanetwork.com www.apanetwork.com

CTARP APJ 43

NUTRITION

PROTEOLYTIC ENZYMES

THE DYNAMIC CATALYSTS FOR SKINCARE AND HEALTH

By Tina Viney

WITH THE DEMAND for natural ingredients in our skincare sometimes you would think, when looking at a skincare product listing that you are looking at a food label. With ingredients like enzymes, vitamins, probiotics, herbs and essential oils the line between food and personal care is becoming blurry. The question is, do these ingredients do anything for your skin?

Let's take a deeper look into enzymes to see how they work and what benefit they may provide.

WHAT IS AN ENZYME? First let’s look at the role of enzymes in the body. Enzymes are chemicals that speed up the rate of chemical reactions without being consumed in the reaction themselves. They're incredibly useful in biological processes because they can make a reaction that normally requires that dangerously-high temperatures occur at normal body temperatures. In the food industry, enzymes are used to help ripen fruits, tenderise meats and produce things like wine and cheese.

Enzymes can be introduced into the body by adding raw food into our diet. They are important because they are crucial to digestion and the maintenance of good health. We should think about the role of enzymes in very simple terms: An enzyme is the “life force” that activates vitamins, minerals, proteins, and other physical components within our body.

There are two major enzyme systems in the human body. One is digestive and the other is metabolic. The digestive enzymes help break down all of the food that we eat so that it can be absorbed by the body. The metabolic enzymes on the other hand, help to run all of the body systems, from the respiratory system to the nervous system.

There are seven categories of food, or digestive enzymes and each one has a different activity. For example: Amylase is the enzyme that is responsible for breaks down starches in our diet. Cellulase is responsible for breaking down fibres. On the other hand, Lactase’s role is to breaks down dairy products. Lipase enzymes breaks down fats, Maltase:

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breaks down grains, Protease breaks down proteins, while Sucrase breaks down sugars.

As we can see enzymes are important in breaking down our food for digestion. They are vital because without them our bodies would not be able to absorb nutrients through our digestive system.

ENZYMES AND THE SKIN When it comes to skincare the enzyme bromelain is very important. Bromelain is a mixture of enzymes found naturally in the juice and stems of pineapples (Ananas comosus).

Bromelain is a proteolytic enzyme, which is an enzyme that helps you digest the proteins in foods. Papaya and pineapple are two of the richest plant sources of proteolytic (proteindissolving) enzymes.

Bromelain used in skincare treatments is very effective in gently removing the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin by chemical exfoliation. Enzymatic activity destroys the keratin of dead cells and the debris, allowing the skin to breathe and feel more alive and vibrant. When you remove dead tissue during exfoliation, the surface of the skin becomes more refined due to the removal of the keratinised skin around the edges of pores making them less visible. Exfoliation also reveals the moisture underneath the tissue.

As we know, when the skin has been exfoliated from the accumulation of dead cells you notice a visual difference in the tone and smoothness of the skin. The follicles are clearer and the skin is softened and hydrated, allowing for a deeper penetration of serums and moisturisers.

Papaya, pineapple and pumpkin are probably the most common ingredients used in skincare for their high proteolytic enzymatic properties. Enzymes have been pushed to the forefront of research due to their benefits in skin health, with exciting new research revealing how enzymes can improve skin appearance as well as prevent skin problems.

STUDIES CONFIRM BENEFITS Studies have demonstrated that cosmetic enzyme products can lead to significant improvements in the appearance and structure of the skin. Although proteolytic enzymes have a history of use in skincare products it is not known whether they simply induce superficial exfoliation, or with continued use, can alter epidermal and dermal skin properties. A study conducted in 2007 and published in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science examined whether proteolytic enzymes enhanced skin exfoliation and tone when treated with an aspartyl dependent acid protease. The research confirmed that the enzyme improved the appearance of the skin over time, and changes were noted in both the epidermis and dermis.

Test participants applied 15% enzyme-containing serum and a simple moisturiser twice daily for three months; a matched control group applied the same serum (without enzyme).

Changes in skin smoothness and texture, the depth and number of lines and wrinkles and epidermal and dermal firmness and thickness were examined in a double-blind fashion. Treatment with 15% enzyme product(s) resulted in significant improvement in epidermal properties after one month and both epidermal and dermal properties after three months. The control group showed modest improvements in surface properties only. These results demonstrate that significant appearance benefits can be derived from use of exfoliative proteolytic enzymes. Such improvements are the result of changes to the epidermis and dermis and are strikingly similar to results observed with higher concentrations of AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids).

The way that enzymes work on the skin is through their ability to break down protein bonds that attach dead skin cells to

the uppermost layers of the skin. This triggers the exfoliation processes speeding up the removal of dead skin cells. The results are similar to those experienced with Alpha Hydroxy Acids, and over time, studies have shown that regular use of enzymes can improve the skin structure. Enzyme products are generally very gentle in their action and suitable for all skin types even sensitive skin. They therefore have a place in your treatment plan. They can help soften the skin, minimise the appearance of pore, reduce blemishes/spots and improve overall skin texture, but in a less aggressive manner than acid peels. Additional to exfoliation, enzymes also have an antiinflammatory action.

Internally, the action of enzymes helps pass nutrients from the blood to the epidermis. Some enzymes allow the skin to make use of beneficial fats, some help repair collagen, harmed by ultraviolet rays and other enzymes help neutralise damage to DNA. Without adequate digestive enzymes the body is unable to fully break down food, leading to partially digested protein fragments that can increase inflammation in the body. This is bad news for the skin, particularly in the case of inflammatory disorders such as acne and eczema.

Should you suffer from poor digestion, this may be improved by increasing natural digestive enzymes. Some foods, such as pineapple and papaya, contain enzymes that boost digestion. It is also possible to use enzyme supplements as a digestive aid, but also consider their benefit when applied to the skin. APJ

For a list of references, please contact the editor.

Make Qualifications your COMPETITIVE ADVANTAGE COSMETIC TATTOOING is a highly profitable and in-demand procedure.

However, there will always be those who take advantage of the opportunities to bring to disrepute the reputation of the profession through poorly delivered procedures due to a lack of qualifications and quality training.

If you wish to enter this industry, gaining nationally-recognised qualifications will elevate your status and secure your future in this modality. If you are already a trained cosmetic tattooist why not

gain Recognition of Prior Learning and upgrade your training to the nationallyapproved SHBBSKS003 DESIGN AND PROVIDE COSMETIC TATTOOING? JANETTE ZAKOS is a qualified cosmetic tattooist and trainer with a nursing and beauty therapy background. With over 27 years’ experience and 12 years’ teaching experience she is renowned for skills and knowledge. Training and Assessment with Janette is only on a oneon-one basis. Why not also benefit from her amazing knowledge and techniques?

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APJ 45

BUSINESSSTRATEGIES

HOW MENTORING CAN EMPOWER YOU WITH A NEW, MORE EFFICIENT MINDSET An interview with John Fergusson THERE IS OFTEN confusion as to how coaching and mentoring differ and how they can best service your needs. John Fergusson is the Director and CEO at B.A.C.U.P. the Future, an executive coaching and consulting service that is helping businesses navigate through trying times. John has years of experience in business development, franchising, analytical process and paradigm. He is very familiar with the health and beauty industry and brings much wisdom and experience to business owners who can benefit from an objective, professional perspective and are seeking guidance in improving the views, perspectives and strategies for great business growth and personal fulfillment.

We interviewed John to share with us some of his views and principles that have helped businesses move forward and specifically in helping businesses understand how mentoring and business coaching differ and how they can each provide them with value.

APJ Q1: JOHN, YOU HAVE PIONEERED THE LAUNCH ONE OF THE LEADING FRANCHISE BUSINESSES IN AUSTRALIA WHAT ARE THE THREE MOST IMPORTANT ISSUES THAT A BUSINESS MUST HAVE IN PLACE IN ORDER TO GUARD AGAINST FAILURE? The three most important things (beside starting capital) that come to mind immediately as a guard against failure are these:

1. You must have a very Clear Vision of Why you are going into business, beside the purpose of making money. This is your true CV that will guide you through the tough times. This means doing all due diligence, knowing your industry or profession extremely well, knowing your enemies of profit such as cost centres verses profit centres, etc. Additionally, you will need to find out what

APJ 46

people really want going into the future. This means you must be in a lifelong relationship with your industry including leaders and policy makers (both private and government). This is because changing trends will shape the future creating new rules, regulations and laws that are always playing “Catch-up”. In my experience over the many years, it is usually what business owners don’t know, or worse, “think they know”, that becomes the source of a business or a profession’s failure.

2. Your Mission must be based on what people want or will want once they see or hear about what you have to offer. It must not be based on need. The old adage of “Find a need and fill it” does not work. Rich and poor alike have many unfulfilled needs that will never be met because they don’t like what’s offered, among other numerous reasons. Everyone is proactive about what they want and will sacrifice many needs to get what they want! It is their mission! Our mission is to provide a joint mission together with them. This creates the Energy that drives our business or profession i.e. everyone (they/ you/me) must get what all want.

3. Never compromise your Values by making sure they are clearly and fully defined. This covers treatment of others, terms and conditions, policies and procedures, everyone’s rights (including your own) in and for your business or profession. This is also indicative of your personal resolve to never quit or give up, but to stick to your initial mandate - to make it work, regardless of what it takes, or anything that must be changed, including yourself, must be adhered to ensure success.

Success is a well-planned journey. It has purpose, but it is never a goal. You must ask yourself - what is my goal today, this week, this month, this year, over the next 5, 10 to 20 years? For this, one needs insight and foresight,

not hindsight. If you are running and correcting your business or profession by hindsight, it is already too late to change. Hindsight is not the mother of wisdom - it is the child of innocence i.e. not knowing!

APJ Q2: EVERY BUSINESS OWNER BELIEVES THEY UNDERSTAND THEIR BUSINESS BEST AND FEEL THEY HAVE A HANDLE ON WHAT IS IMPORTANT TO ENSURE THE BUSINESS SUCCEEDS. THE MOST COMMON ONES ARE STAFF PERFORMANCE, PROFITABILITY AND GROWTH STRATEGIES. HOW CAN YOUR MENTORING ADD VALUE TO THEIR BUSINESS AND HOW CAN YOUR OBJECTIVE ASSESSMENT HELP THEM GAIN A FRESH NEW PERSPECTIVE? A very good question and I have a story that I believe answers the question well. Many business owners and professionals become so focused on areas they just enjoy doing and often have blinkers on what else is needed. Sometimes this is often helped by those or someone close to them, that has a vested interest in doing so. A good analogy is to consider a workhorse that is dragging a wagon load of fragile products. Their eyes are partially blinkered or covered, and a feed bag strung over its neck covering their nose. This is to prevent them from being spooked by that which unknowingly comes up from behind, making them bolt and thus destroying their precious cargo!

The age-old notion “What you can’t see gets ignored”. So, the workhorse keeps on happily going with its nose in the feed bag strung conveniently around its neck until the feed source runs out. What’s coming up that they happily know nothing, or little about, soon becomes something others will have to take care of. If it doesn’t get picked up in time the business will fold, or becomes easy pickings for a takeover by those who saw it

coming but never let the business owner know.

Many business owners and professionals cannot be told by their partners, colleagues or staff what their blind-spots are, or what they are doing wrong that may be ruining their business.

It most often offends them and hurts very important working relationships.

This is why an outside mentor is the best and fastest way forward for an objective assessment that will help them gain a fresh new perspective. This is done by carefully removing the blinkered areas off both themselves and their working knowledge in order for them to lead and drive a successful business or profession. A great mentor will cause greater awareness of both your strengths, weaknesses and your blindspots and help you overcome them. They will help you become a powerful and understanding leader in your profession and business, by helping you gain greater insight and foresight!

APJ Q3: THEY SAY THAT PREVENTION IS BETTER THAN CURE. WHY IS IT IMPORTANT FOR BUSINESSES TO FORESEE WHAT CAN GO WRONG AND TAKE APPROPRIATE STEPS TO PREVENT THEM? Prevention is always better and usually costs much less than cure. But most have no idea what should be prevented due to the fact that most business people only go by what they’ve learnt in the past, and by what they currently see or hear dayby-day around them, and that can be totally detrimental and prejudiced against their desired success.

For a business to foresee what can, or could go wrong in the future, far or near, it must know and understand ahead of time what to look for in order to be aware, constantly looking for any of the hidden systemic roots, i.e. the cause of a problem or

system of fault. The root will be developing first, long before the leaves or fruit appear, which for most then becomes the evidence of something destructive that should not be there, often destroying the business or person in-spite of eventually calling for help!

FUTURE CLASS LEADERSHIP ACADEMY Future Class Leadership Academy offers a free personal discovery analysis of who you are for the purpose of personal mentoring and/or coaching. This free program may reveal strengths, weaknesses and blind spots, gifts, attributes and capabilities you may not know you have!

Mentoring can then help/guide you toward a very original, fruitful and vital future. (This is a program of higher essential mentoring, education and tutoring by FCLA, a division of BACUP the Future P/L services group) All you need to do to get started is to enrol by giving FCLA your full name, personal email and phone number. FCLA will send you your personal member UN (user name) and PW (password).

After you have logged in you can set your own password and may log in and out until you have completed the Discovery Program.

Once you send off the completed analysis, FCLA will consider the outcome of the algorithmic processes.

We will then send you the suggested recommended program/s from the synopsis developed out of your results.

There is no obligation on your part once you have received our report, but if you choose to engage us for further consultation for the purpose of being mentored, an agreement will be forwarded to you with the fee schedule also attached for signing.

It is entirely up to you as to whether you believe you will benefit by engaging a mentor for yourself and your future life-goals, to increase knowledge about yourself and the developmental processes for your own personal and unique higher well-being.

ENROL NOW www.fcla.com.au/?page_id=5656 Or, for a first 15 minute free “Get to know me/you” appointment over the phone, call us and we will arrange a mutually agreed time for an appointment.

02 9898 0681 | 0421 366 303 | clients@fcla.com.au

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The best illustration I can think of is to consider the cancer scourge, or any other disease that remains hidden until it begins to destroy its host. You may not be equipped at all to know what to look for, so you go to your doctor regularly, who can investigate what you don’t know. Doing this has saved many lives from premature destruction, consequently keeping so many healthy and staying well.

It is the very same for every businessperson and professional.

It is folly to wait until something goes seriously wrong, until you run out of money, or all your good staff leave before you decide to do something. It is then no longer possible to put in place preventative measures and means that you can only now only move towards a state of recovery, if it is not already too late!

APJ Q4: WITH YOUR MENTORING HOW DOES IT DIFFER FROM BUSINESS COACHING? HOW DOES WHAT YOU OFFER BETTER MEET THE NEEDS OF THE CURRENT BUSINESS? Mentoring and Coaching are each completely different functions, but often both are required, especially in bringing correction.

To put it simply: Mentoring is for the Person and their Being, whereas Coaching is for the Person and their Doing.

My mentoring better meets the needs of a current business regardless of size or success, because I change the embedded program with new mindsets that auto-fine-tunes the working model, function, culture and output of the business.

It is not wise and to no advantage if you use the old outdated mindsets (program) to control and run a high-tech, brand new, high performance machine (business) or professional. This is why a new Super Brand with a (new) racked stacked and packed super environment has little to no effect on an old and rigid mindset.

However, the old unchanged and rigid mindset will quickly turn the new Super Brand with a (new) racked stacked and packed super environment into their “old” environment. I saw this first in New York city. I’ve seen it in many places and cities around the world. This is why mentoring is far more effective to those I’ve mentored, than just coaching and/or business consulting.

I still have far too many coming to me for help after the horse has bolted and their dreams shattered!

Innocence (not knowing enough) and ignorance (thinking you know) and unrecognised false pride are the main antagonists blocking people from getting help before help is actually needed. Getting help before help is needed is like putting a life boat on your yacht before you sail or having a life jacket under your seat ready to put on to save you in case of an emergency.

I believe in mentoring! I get mentored myself! I am mentoring others! It’s changing the heart and mindset of the person who will then change their life, profession, their business and their world around them to match. APJ If you would like to speak to John Fergusson to discuss your needs and learn more about his mentoring services please contact him on 02 9898 0681 |0421 366 303 |or email john@johnrfergusson.com

WORLD-LEADER IN HIGH-PERFORMANCE SKINCARE AND HOLISTIC AESTHETICS WHY WITH PHYT’S YOUR TREATMENTS WILL EXCEL: • Four decades at the forefront of the natural and organic skincare landscape • Free from Parabens, Phthalates, Sulphates, PEG compounds, Petrochemicals and Mineral Oils, GMO, CMR, Synthetic Fragrances and Colours • Not tested on animals, contains no animal products nor derivatives • Uni-dose glass ampoules guarantee excellent product preservation, total hygiene, potency and personalised selection.

PHYT’S AUSTRALIA 1300 656 627 info@phyts.com.au www.phyts.com.au

APJ 49

BUSINESSSTRATEGIES

SELLING FROM THE HEART

By Tina Viney

“The deeper your relationship with others, the more effective will be your leadership. People will not follow you if they do not trust you, and before someone will lend you a hand, you must first touch their heart.” — Robin Sharma AS THE MARKET FOR OUR SERVICES IS BECOMING MORE COMPETITIVE so consumers are taking longer to respond to the uptake of treatments without previously reviewing and critiquing your expertise and competence, especially these days when there are so many options and choices available to them.

Recently, I received an email from a lady in Sydney who was referred to and actually given a voucher to receive a treatment from one of our member’s clinics. She sent me a lengthy email stating that the practitioners she was going to had images of our Membership Certificates on her wall, but when she checked our website she was not included as part of our ARAP practitioner registration. The reason was that the member had not as yet submitted their qualification for assessment, as this is a requirement for this registration.

My point is that even though the client though she had a paid voucher in her possession, she was not prepared to go through with the treatment unless I could confirm to her that the member was a qualified and reputable practitioner. Now I know there are many gullible consumers, but astute clients these days are doing a lot more background checking of their own to ensure they are in trusted hands.

As practitioners, our clients or patients come to us expecting some level of personal transformation through our services.

This may involve a level of improvement in their appearance, their wellbeing, or even more fundamentally, in helping them gain a boost in their self-confidence.

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You would have to agree that the hard-sell, pushy and manipulative sales approach not only goes against our grain as practitioners, it is also the total wrong approach in winning the confidence of today’s astute consumer.

SELLING FROM THE HEART The principles of selling from the heart allow us to reach out to others in more personable and meaningful ways, they enable us to communicate with conviction, clarity and with genuine honesty and care. We are not just selling a product, we are inviting individuals to trust us to touch and work on their faces, or bodies to create a change for the better. To gain that trust we need to perfect our interpersonal skills. Additionally, today, business communication rules have changed. We are required to deliver a more personalised and a more heartfelt approach.

The new rules are also supported by research from science on human behaviour, such as mindfulness, neuroplasticity and NLP.

A SELF-AWARE SALES PROFESSIONAL Several branding experts today define the need for professional sales strategies to be delivered with purposeful intent. They stress the importance of aligning our vision and values to those of our clients in order to earn their respect. This requires that you listen to your prospect to identify what they value and what

is important to them and then look at ways of reflecting those values as much as possible with what you are offering them.

AVOID THE HYPE Advertising hype that was once the catch phrase for attracting sales are now such a turn-off – consumers can see straight through them. “We offer the best treatments” …. “we will exceed your expectations”. These statements are so overused and cliché in our industry. How can you exceed my expectations when you don’t even know what they are? If you need hype to sell a product it’s a sign that perhaps your product or services are not as valuable as you think. Therefore, stay away from cliché words and focus on distinct benefits and the concrete value that your services will deliver.

A selling from the heart professional has a clear sense of purpose. They know exactly who they are and what they want.

They are highly knowledgeable and educated about what they are offering and communicate from a point of true conviction on the credibility and value of their services. They believe what they try to convince others. Selling from the heart professionals take massive action, make strategic decisions, plan and set goals; all in accordance with a deep-rooted set of personal, professional and moral values. Moreover, they build a family of clients aligning to these values.

Never before has the need to have value proposition, or a unique selling proposition that in today’s competitive market.

I often hear businesses tell me that they can’t compete with the franchise clinics because of the heavily discounted offers they make that they cannot match. However, if you have a compelling value proposition this can make the difference between gaining or losing clients to others who may just be able to offer a better price, but not necessarily better value.

A value proposition is the value you promise to deliver to your clients, post-purchase. It’s ultimately what makes your product attractive to customers.

If you can perfect your value proposition, you can increase your conversion rate and improve your marketing strategies across many channels. Learning to present the value your company and products deliver in a compelling way is one of the most high-value, wide-reaching marketing activities.

WHAT IS THE VALUE PROPISITION? As we have mentioned earlier, a value proposition is the value you promise to deliver to your clients, post-purchase. It’s ultimately what makes your product and services attractive to consumers to prefer you over another business. This is why you will need to take some time to ensure that it is compelling and it achieves its purpose, which is to win the trust and confidence of consumers to prefer you over another business.

A strong value proposition must meet three criteria:

1. It’s specific: What are the specific benefits the client will gain by receiving this service? This means that you cannot have a blanket statement for everyone. The value proposition for someone that is concerned with their pigmentation will be very different to someone who is concerned with having too many wrinkles.

You therefore must adapt the appropriate benefits to address the problem you are trying to resolve.

2. It’s pain-focused: The focus needs to be specifically on resolving the immediate concern that is a priority to your client, not what you think her priority should be. To gain trust you have to prioritise what is the pain issue that is important to them that you will resolve for then. Once this is achieved you can address other issues. This is why prior to any consultation you are not in a position to promise anything until you identify what is your client’s priority concern.

3. It’s exclusive: How is it both desirable and exclusive?

How does it set you apart from your competitors? This is where you can present your value-added to your proposition to combat any discounting. For example, in a large treatment package include appropriate fullprice skincare for free instead of discounting. In doing so you are giving your client tangible items of value for free rather than just a discount. As you can see a value proposition is not your brand’s slogan or catchphrase.

It requires a lot more thought and planning and it is the major driving force in gaining the appreciation and trust of new and existing clients.

However, before we go into the value proposition let’s take a closer look at one of the most common discounting strategy in our industry.

So, what goes into an effective value proposition? Here are some characteristics that can help you shape a compelling value proposition:

THE LOST LEADER

Use similar words or voice of customer copy The best value propositions use what is termed as voice of customer copy. That is, they use the exact words of your current clients to attract your future clients. How do your customers describe your services? What do your clients appreciate the most about your services and how do they improve their lives?

How do they describe your company? Why do they choose to associate with your brand? How do they feel you are special to them?

Retailers, pharmacies and grocers are almost always willing to take a loss on a few items if it means getting you in the door to buy plenty of other things, this is a tactic known as the “lost leader” and it is a strategy that is now used extensively in our industry, particularly with the laser clinics as they attempt to lure clients into their doors. The objective is that while you are visiting the clinic having a discounted treatment the business will evaluate your needs and try to engage you with their other services. Often, they do succeed, that is why it is a strategy that is commonly used.

However, many salons think that everything in that clinic is cheaper, but that is not the case. The danger of dropping your prices is that invariably you will also need to cut costs somewhere in the delivery of that treatment, this is why often the lost leader in our industry is a simple service such as an underarm hair reduction laser treatment or a bikini line treatment.

Interview your clients or send out a survey to better understand how they speak about you, both to other people and to themselves. Pay attention to common words and phrases they use. Your visitors should see themselves in your value proposition. The language you use plays a big role in shaping their perspective. An example may be that you not only prove great treatment results, but your staff are always very professional, personable and caring. If these are the terms that are meaningful to them use these terms as part of your selling propositions to others.

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The importance of clarity Above all, you must ensure your value proposition is very clear and it is articulated consistently. The specifics for individuals may differ but the promise must remain the same.

When evaluating your draft, ensure it answers the following questions: •

What services and products are you selling?

•

Who can benefit from these?

•

How will accessing your services and products improve their confidence and even their life?

•

Why should a consumer access your services instead of your competitors? What are the extras you are offering e.g. value for money, extras at no additional cost, validated qualifications and standards of your practitioners – anything that will elevate your status and your client’s respect of you.

Your value proposition should be relatively short, 2-3 short sentences maximum. Every word should improve clarity or make your message more compelling, otherwise it needs to be tightened.

PUTTING IT ALL TOGETHER Step 1: Identifying your value proposition: Before you dig into identifying your value proposition, it’s important to frame your thinking properly. All great value propositions start with one question: What do I do better than anyone else? Maybe it’s client service, maybe it’s your products, maybe it’s the quality of your technology, maybe it’s the knowledge, expertise and qualification of your staff? Association recognition or awards you have won. Or perhaps it’s your guarantee of quality assurance.

To achieve a confident value proposition, you will need to identify what your competitors are offering and beat them to the punch. Make sure your value proposition stacks up against the promises of your top competitors so that you can identify what will set you apart in the minds of your potential clients.

Step 2: Communicating your value proposition: Frame what you do better than anyone else into a single sentence and display it prominently. You want to ensure this is what grabs attention first. Just like an article headline, many people will read the single sentence value proposition and move on. If they like it, they might read a brief elaboration or just continue on to the next step. If they don’t like it, they’ll often just go ahead and leave. That’s a lot of pressure on just one sentence, so you want to make sure you’re getting it right. That is, you want to make sure it’s clear and relevant.

It’s a useful exercise to spend the time coming up with 10-15 variations of your initial value proposition. When promoting your value proposition on your social media pages or literature make sure you don’t just have one statement. Include 3-4 points that your clients will value and set them up like a quality assurance statement. They should reflect also your value and your ethics - don’t ever underestimate these – they can help you win the trust of your potential clients.

The language of business is changing and to stay relevant we need to adopt our message and our communication style. To help you master some of these principles APAN is hosting several business workshops this year to help you remain relevant and continue to grow your business. Please check out our website www.apanconf.com as well as ads within this issue of the journal. The workshops will be well-worth your investment. APJ

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APJ 52 766 198 | info@beautypay.com.au 1300

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SKINSCIENCE

THE QUEST FOR YOUTH AND BEAUTY, CAN EPIGENETICS BE THE ANSWER?

By Tiina Meder - Meder Beauty Science GENETIC SCIENCE is relatively young, it’s foundations were laid only about 150 years ago. While the word ‘gene’ first came into use in the early 20th century. It would certainly appear that from the dawn of time people have had a notion of the passing of traits from parent to child. The colour of people’s eyes and hair, the strength and behaviour of domesticated animals, even the crop yield of cultivated plants were vaguely understood to be hereditary. And yet, heredity remained veiled in mystery, lush crops were often attributed to the gardener’s green thumb and desirable characteristics of animals — to some special abilities of their breeders.

example, research has shown that if mothers suffer from malnutrition and hunger during pregnancy, their children are likely to be prone to diabetes and obesity. But this works the other way around as well: good diet, regular exercise and maintaining healthy weight reduce the risk of diabetes, hypertension and cardiovascular diseases even when there is a family history of illness. Basically, epigenetic influences can, to some extent, correct hereditary threats.

In the past decade, geneticists and molecular biologists have been increasingly immersed in the study of epigenetic influences that can define all kinds of traits including the ageing and general appearance of human skin.

Dermatology and aesthetic medicine both have use for epigenetic research. It is no secret that with age the skin becomes thinner and drier, losing youthful radiance and glow, and wrinkles almost inevitably follow. This is why getting rid of wrinkles does not necessarily make the face appear younger.

Ageing manifests in the changes of the skin’s health and appearance as much as in lines and creases.

Epigenetic science explores all the ways the external world affects the body’s phenotype without actually changing its genotype — how and why all living things adapt to the environment while preserving the genetic information (DNA) that they inherited from their ancestors. A good example of epigenetic influence is the acceleration in human development.

In the past few decades people all over the world have become noticeably taller and larger. Families that had been relatively short generation after generation, started giving birth to larger babies who grow up to be tall adults. The DNA of these babies’ short ancestors remains unchanged, but their bones still grow longer and muscles stronger. Why? Because these children have access to more nutritious food, vitamins and minerals, they are not plagued by dangerous infectious diseases and experience a lot less stress in the early days. The genes responsible for increased height had been dormant for generations, but once beneficial influences became strong enough, these genes awakened and altered the activity of many systems in the body, from endocrine to blood, bone and muscle systems.

EPIGENETIC INFLUENCE ON DERMATOLOGY AND AESTHETIC MEDICINE

As it turns out, epigenetic influences can be quite diverse. For example, the expression of genes, responsible for the general health of the body as a whole and the skin in particular, is accelerated by psychological comfort, social fulfilment, timely diagnostics and treatment of illness, financial security, clean environment and even intellectual activity, just as much as by healthy diet and exercise.

THE EPIGENETIC INFLUENCE

Thanks to the Human Genome Project, much of our genetic information has been decoded now. We know of many genes responsible for a wide variety of processes in the human body.

In recent years, scientists gave us detailed information on hundreds of genes responsible for the syntheses of collagen and elastin in the skin, even pinpointing particular genes that produce collagen of a certain type. We know what genes activate the syntheses of the skin’s other structural elements: filaggrin, involucrin, eleidin, keratin and the skin’s key polysaccharide, hyaluronic acid.

Epigenetic influences can be both positive and negative. For

A large family of genes controls moisture levels and the skin’s

APJ 54

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APJ 55

barrier properties: some of those genes activate the synthesis of agents which retain water on the skin’s surface, others increase the expression of aquaporin proteins which transport water into deep skin layers, yet another group of genes activate the production of epidermal lipids and of NMF (Natural Moisturising Factor) components. However, along with ‘positive’ genes, whose increased expression brings nothing but benefits to the skin, we have ‘negative’ genes responsible for the harmful processes, the destruction of many elements and the death of cells. These genes are necessary too, as the reduced cell life in the process of ageing and a faster disintegration of various structural elements are the body’s way to rid itself from various mutations and accumulated abnormalities.

However, eventually it comes to a point where destructive processes start to dominate the synthetic ones, and an organ, in this case the skin, starts losing its healthy functions. The skin’s abilities to regenerate, to retain water, to stretch and contract are reduced, and when the decline becomes noticeable we call it ageing.

Understanding the epigenetic factors that affect age-related changes in the skin allows us to use agents and methods able to increase the expression of positive genes and suppress the expression of negative genes. As we learn more and more about various cosmetic ingredients and their effect on the expression of the genes responsible for skin cells’ functioning, it turns out that many traditional ingredients of old have positive epigenetic effect. Molecular biologists managed to synthesise several molecules whose effect is primarily epigenetic and can really slow down the ageing of cells and of the skin as a whole.

EPIGENETICS AND SKINCARE Certain components, traditionally used in cosmetics, have revealed unexpected epigenetic activity. For example, wellknown and used for decades glycerine apparently significantly increases the expression of genes ensuring the synthesis of aquaporin nanoproteins, which form microscopic channels delivering water from the surface to the deep skin layers. In this way glycerine moisturises the skin deeply, not just on the surface level as it had been previously thought. Hyaluronic acid has a similar effect and is also able to activate the expression of genes protecting the skin from free radicals and controlling inflammation. Coenzyme Q10 is also epigenetically active, and so are vitamin C with its derivatives and vitamin E. Two other cosmetic ingredients have peculiar epigenetic properties — niacin (niacinamide) and resveratrol. Both stimulate the expression of genes which activate the synthesis of sirtuins.

Sirtuins are proteins able to restore the damaged cell DNA and prolong the cell life, actually slowing down the ageing process.

A separate line of study in this field is a search for ingredients able to prolong the active life of skin cells, particularly the kind of agents which could do more than just increase the cell life span. The goal is to preserve the cells’ real youth — their ability to renew and produce various substances and energy. Several such agents have already been found. They can prolong the life of cells both in dermis and epidermis, surface and deep skin layers, by 30–35% and keep all their ‘young’ functions. This means that solutions based on these ingredients would be able to slow down the biological clock: start regular application at the age of 40–45, when the first real signs of ageing appear, and it is entirely possible that by 50 your skin cells would be a few years younger than your biological age, more like 47–48.

This opens up mind-boggling prospects in cosmetology: the solutions with anti-age properties of such kind would also preserve the skin’s health for a long time! Among the already available epigenetic anti-age ingredients are teprenone (GGA) and Ephemer™ — the extract of ephemeral cells of Japanese alga Undaria Pinnatifida.

APJ 56

NEW COSMETIC PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT One of the first epigenetically active cosmetic solutions, created with the help of genetics and molecular biology scientists and already available on the market, is Vita-Long Oil, an epigenetic longevity veil, released by Meder Beauty Science Lab in March of 2018. Tests suggest that seven weeks of regular application decelerate skin ageing by 27–30%, at the same time the productivity of cellular respiration and metabolism grows, and there is a significant increase in the syntheses of structural proteins and of hyaluronic acid, while the production of melanin is optimised in accordance with the skin’s actual needs.

These beneficial effects are brought about by the regulatory impact on the structures of cell and mitochondrial DNA of dermal keratinocytes and fibroblasts.

Vita-Long Oil contains teprenone (GGA), Ephemer™ (Undaria Pinnatifida extract) and ubiquinone (coenzyme Q-10).

Teprenone increases the stability of DNA and telomers, allowing for larger number of cell divisions without the loss of its vital abilities. Ephemer™ affects the mitochondrial DNA activating the process of cell regeneration and strengthening their protection from harm. Finally, ubiquinone raises the level of oxygen in the cells stimulating regeneration and cell communication. The foundation of Vita-Long Oil is the blend of ten oils imitating the perfect sebum of young and healthy skin. Vita-Long Oil is enriched with 5 anti-oxidants creating an uninterrupted cascade of anti-oxidant reactions. In the very first days of application, users note increased comfort, the skin looks and feels softer and smoother and its natural barrier function is restored. In 10–14 days the level of protection against free radicals and other external harmful factors reaches its peak, activating the syntheses of collagen, elastin, involucrin and other skin proteins as well as hyaluronic acid.

At the same time the intensity of melanin synthesis and inflammatory reactions in deep and surface skin layers decreases. As the protective and structural functions of the skin are restored, the epigenetic ingredients of Vita-Long Oil are enabled to affect DNA structures altering the expression of genes responsible for cell life span and activity. After 5–7 weeks of application, Vita-Long Oil improves the skin moisture levels, reduces wrinkles and pigment spots, making the skin thicker, more elastic and smooth. To achieve the effect, manufacturer recommends applying a few drops of Vita-Long Oil to clean skin twice a day, morning and night, before face cream. After the 7-week active course, Vita-Long Oil can be included in the daily skin care routine permanently, especially when the goal is age correction rather than the prevention of ageing. Other uses of Vita-Long Oil include recovery aide after surgery, chemical peel, laser and radiofrequency treatments.

Epigenetic solutions can open up a world of possibilities in aesthetic medicine allowing us to impact the expression of genes and stabilise the cell DNA structure and prolong the skin’s youth on the cell level. APJ MEDER BEAUTY SCIENCE Distributed by Spectrum Science & Beauty 1300 766 198 sales@spectrumsciencebeauty.com.au www.spectrumsciencebeauty.com.au

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APJ 57

EULOGY TO A LEGEND

Bill Anton July 3, 1958 - April 1, 2018

ON THE 1st APRILl the scientific world lost a legend and a great individual who not only pioneered the integrative anti-ageing and aesthetic medicine movement in Australia, but was also renowned as a man with a great heart and a wonderful spirit of generosity.

Vasilios Antonopoulos known as Bill Anton to us, was a recognised and esteemed clinical nutritional biochemist and scientist not just in Australia, but also across the world.

His reputation was renowned in numerous other countries where he travelled and lectured at academic institutions.

Bill was instrumental in leading the industry through his research and continuing practice of integrative, functional and anti-ageing medicine. In 1992 Bill founded General Diagnostic Laboratory, later renamed Pathlab, a leading pathology lab in Australasia that introduced cutting-edge diagnostic testing methods, which were instrumental in supporting healthcare practitioners in integrative and functional medicine.

He was indeed a man ahead of his time.

APJ 58

As an individual he was a larger-than-life character, always willing to support and mentor others and a force for good in both the scientific community, as well as other cultural and community-based organisation that he was involved in.

Bill Anton was also a member of the APAN Advisory Council and contributed extensively with creative ideas in helping APAN establish it identity as a credible industry body within the Australian Aesthetics industry. Despite his busy schedule he was keen, willing and available to put forward innovative recommendations whenever we reached out to him, and his views were always highly respected. We were honoured to have someone of his calibre on our Advisory Council and his presence and contribution will be greatly missed. Bill was a uniquely gifted individual with an incredible mind that was always inventive and alert.

Even though he was an academic genius he was also a humble, kind-hearted and generous individual with a great sense of humour and an amazing ability to connect with people in a sincere and genuine way.

Bill’s knowledge and commitment to advancing longevity across science, medicine and technology is recognised.

His significant professional contribution, passion and generosity, personal comradery and industry support has left an indelible mark on all who have been taught and mentored by him. He was a valuable contribution to us all and to the scientific community at large – a life lost far too soon.

Our condolences go to his family Helen and his children Stephanie, Nick and Mia.

Why Attend?

Don’t miss Australasia’s premier evidence-based, anti-ageing medical conference promoting integrative, preventative and personalised health.

Driving cutting edge information and research, our conference speakers deliver the latest research and findings for the aesthetics industry.

> Hear from over 20 experts from the aesthetics, cosmetic and wellness Industry > Learn cutting-edge and advanced aesthetic medical eduction > Find out the latest in medical technologies > Meet and mingle with your colleagues and peers > Share and learn from other practitioners, clinic owners, surgeons, doctors, physicians, nutritionists, naturopaths, pharmacists and more…

2018 A5M Conference Speakers:

Aesthetic Medicine, Skin and Anti-Ageing Dr Sarah McKay (AU) MSc, DPhil (Oxon) Keynote Speaker Neuroscientist & TedX Speaker

Is it ever too late to change your brain? How we eat, move, sleep, love, connect and find meaning in life are intimately connected to how our brains grow, think, feel and ultimately age.

Chiza Westcarr

CIDESCO, ITEC Hons., CIBTAC, BHSc, M.HumNutri, Adv Dip Nutri Med.

Nutritionist and Skin Specialist The missing link to optimum skin health, highlighting the importance of including diet as a consideration in skincare assessments.

Mary-Louise Condon (AU) BPharm, ABAAHP, ACAAM

Compounding Pharmacist, Anti-ageing and Integrative Practitioner Patient clinical outcomes resulting in weight loss & inflammation reduction while following a fasting protocol.

Terry Everitt

B. HSc (Aesthetics) M.Ed.

Clinical Aesthetics Trainer Skin Manifestations of Internal Concerns, highlighting the more common, classic and important manifestations from minor superficial infections to necrotizing fasciitis.

Attend our Pre-Conference Workshop Get the latest facts for understanding cell health and ageing well. The role mitochondria, the powerhouse of the body, plays in chronic diseases and ageing is getting mainstream exposure.

Stay aheadof the game with the latest research at A5M. REGISTER TO ATTEND TODAY APJ 59

Don’t miss out! REGISTER ONLINE at www.a5m.net | Call: +61 3 9813 0439 | Email: enquiries@a5m.net

AESTHETIC INDUSTRY BULLETIN instructions on the box often recommend waiting until your face is completely dry before applying a retinoid,” says Sachs. “But there’s no evidence in the scientific literature I’ve seen that shows damp or wet skin exacerbates sensitivity.” And while we’re on the topic, applying a retinoid to damp skin doesn’t maximise its potency, either. “Nothing having to do with application decides how much of the retinol is converted into retinoic acid, the form of Vitamin A that actually repairs skin,” Sachs says. “That’s solely related to your skin’s chemistry and retinoid receptors.”

RETINOL – EXPERTS DISPEL THE MYTHS WHEN IT COMES to retinol there are different strengths some of which are derivatives, but how do they differ? According to the experts Retinol and Retinoic Acid basically do the same thing. Prescription formulas contain retinoic acid, the magic ingredient that fights visible ageing; non-prescription alternatives need to be converted into retinoic acid by the skin at the cellular level. “In off-the-shelf formulas, the ingredient called retinol is the only derivative of vitamin A worth using,” says Dana Sachs, an associate professor of dermatology at the University of Michigan Medical School. “There’s a lot of literature showing that while retinol is more gentle than retinoic acid, biochemically it does exactly the same thing - it may just take longer to see results.” The same can’t be said for the derivatives called pro-retinols (a.k.a. retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate, and retinyl linoleate), which are the most gentle but weaker, too.

MYTH: You’ll need to wait four to six weeks for your retinoid to really work. We wish: Turns out it’ll be double — or even triple — that amount of time, according to Gary Fisher, a professor of dermatology at the University of Michigan Medical School. “Many over-the-counter formulas claim you’ll see results within weeks,” says Fisher. “But in my experience, it takes an average of 12 weeks for retinoic acid to produce noticeable changes in the skin — so stick with it for at least that long to see the benefits.”

MYTH: You should stop applying retinoid if your skin gets irritated. In the words of our high-school cross-country coach, push through it. Irritation that flares up after adding vitamin A to your regimen is “all part of the process,” says Weiss. “We’ve seen clinically that after two or three weeks the skin cells adapt to the retinoic acid and begin to tolerate the ingredient.” The caveat: We’re talking about reasonably flushed, drier-thanusual, lightly peeling skin. “If the discomfort is prolonged or very uncomfortable, use it once a week or switch to a weaker formula,” says Sachs. APJ

Some people believe that retinoids acid works by exfoliating the skin, but experts say this is not true. “There’s often peeling and redness, but that’s a side effect of the irritation — not a true and even exfoliation, like the one you get from an ingredient like glycolic acid,” says Sachs.

“The peeling is certainly not why people start looking better. In fact, it’s why most people give it up.” Retinoids work at a much more profound level by affecting gene expression and causing enhanced collagen production, skin smoothing, and evening out of pigmentation.

MYTH: You shouldn’t wear retinoids during the day because they increase your risk of sunburn. “This is one of the biggest myths out there,” says professor Sachs. It’s true that retinoids break down in sunlight, which is why they are bottled in opaque packaging and are still best worn at night — to make sure they aren’t rendered inactive. However, they do not make the skin more prone to sunburn. “This misconception came about because in some early studies, people described putting on a retinoid, walking into the sun, and immediately burning. But that redness is likely related to heat exposure,” says Sachs. “Clinical studies have shown pretty definitively that retinoids do not lower the MED — or minimal erythemal dos — of human skin, which is the amount of UV light you can take before the skin burns.”

MYTH: You should always apply retinoids to dry skin.

Sometimes, even doctors break the rules: “I know the

APJ 60

NEW NOVEL INGREDIENTS PIONEERS SOLUTION FOR STRESSED SKIN Stress, jetlag, shift working hours, intense lifestyles and even exposure to blue light emissions from the screens of ubiquitous electronic devices such as laptops, tablets and mobile phones, disrupt the body’s circadian clock, which leads to the deregulation of the skin’s circadian rhythm. As a consequence, the skin essentially becomes “lost in time”, showing signs of fatigue and becoming more prone to external aggressors.

Genes that should be in full evidence in the morning are no longer well expressed and the same happens to gene activity in the evening, resulting in the rhythm of both being deregulated.

These variations are what is known as “phase” and “amplitude”

This section presents the latest news, training dates and other Aesthetic Industry information

deregulation. Phase deregulation means that a gene is not expressed at the right time, while amplitude deregulation occurs when the difference between the higher and lower expression of a gene is altered. These deregulated phenomena in the circadian cycle weaken many biological functions of the skin which normally respect this rhythmicity.

Following hot on the heels of this new generation of beauty and wellness thinking, the circadian rhythm or body clock is inspiring expert skincare formulators. By understanding these rhythms and identifying when the skin will be under the most stress - when repair or protection is needed products can be enabled to be more efficient at preventing skin damage and premature ageing as well as improving skin overall wellbeing.

The latest global date shows the market is now valued at over 40 billion US. While global beauty and personal care market grew by 1.7% between 2012 – 2017, premium beauty products experience a 5% growth making them the fastest growing category - over twice that of standard products. According to Euromonitor Global beauty and personal care market is forecast to reach $530 billion by 2022. APJ

Developed by Clariant Active Ingredients, B-Circadin is a new ingredient that maintains the vital synchronisation of the skin’s circadian cycle, rapidly improving the complexion while decreasing puffiness and dark circles.

Inspiration from plant biorhythm B-Circadin is extracted from the Lespedeza Capitata plant, grown and harvested in South Korea where it is used for its medicinal properties. The circadian cycle regulating human skin also regulates the rhythm of certain plants, accounting for those leaves and flowers opening during daytime and closing at night. Containing two key glycosylated flavonoids directly involved in circadian clock maintenance - carlinoside and isoschaftoside - B-Circadin emulates the ability to resynchronise the circadian cycle within the skin cells to regulate rhythmdependent biological functions such as aquaporin-3 and Nrf2 pathway detoxification efficacy. APJ

CONSUMERS CONCERNED ABOUT SAFETY Aluminium free deodorants are the new item that is gaining ground as consumers are seeking safer options. Globally, deodorants containing aluminium are at the centre of trade battles and nationally, they face threats from natural deodorants that want to topple aluminium based deodorants in the personal care aisles.

Consumers are becoming aware of ingredient safety and this drive will strongly influence formulations into the future. APJ

GLOBAL RESEARCH CONFIRMS THAT PREMIUM PRODUCTS ARE CONTINUING TO LEAD THE MARKET IN CONSUMER DEMAND

THE NEW SHIFT TO WATERLESS COSMETICS

It would appear that consumers are stepping up their expectations when it comes to skincare seeking products that can deliver on their promise. Regardless of cost – highperforming products are continuing to be the market leader with consistent growth in demand according to global researcher Euromonitor.

Increasingly, the personal care industry is embracing watersaving efforts and incorporating the environmentally-savvy and eco-friendly messages into their brand story. As part of this trend we are seeing the growing development of masks and dry shampoos that can offer innovative formulations with an exponential beauty experience.

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AESTHETIC INDUSTRY BULLETIN World Water Day took place on the 22nd March 2018.

Becoming aware of global water shortage has lead to cosmetic manufacturers committed to the dedication for sustainability initiatives toward water conservation, collaborating with authoritative bodies and exploring and launching waterless formulations.

•

Other popular fragrances included Dolce Garden – Dolce & Gabbana, Mon Guerlain Florale, Gucci Guilty Absolute – Gucci, Sorbetta Rosso – Escada and Momade by Chloe. APJ

The future of water conservation is set to expand this conservation awareness to areas beyond product development and enter the home and beauty routines of consumers. Waterless cleaners and easy rinse claims are new inventions expected to successfully and simultaneously promote cleaning and conservation.

Consumers want to see a world that lives and thrives in the future rather than one that is depleted in resources, but they also want great products and brands that are committed both to what is best for them as well as mindful of the environment. APJ

EUROPE TIGHTENS REGULATIONS FOR COSMETIC FORMULATIONS The issue of safety in personal care products was a key topic at the Cosmetic European Annual Conference that was held in June this year held in Brussels. Mr d’Acunto, Head of Unit for Health Technology and Cosmetics at the EC outlined the need for regulation with the key areas outlined as follows:

Another tendency is to add a new twist to already popular perfumes. There are seven entities in the top 10 list are new editions to classical hits, like Chanel’s Coco Mademoiselle which was voted the most popular fragrance. While the top notes of this fragrance are orange, bergamot and mandarin, the middle and base not that stabilise the aroma and give it its characteristic fragrance were morning rose, Italian jasmine, mimosa, Florentine iris and ylang, ylang, with patchouli, Bourbone vanilla and white musk as the base notes.

Other favourites that topped the list were: • Meteorites by Guerlain – green top notes with violet and iris as the middle notes •

Coco Mademoiselle Intense – Chanel with its haunting Tonga bean and vanilla

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La Nuit Tresor a la Folie – Lancome – with a strong rose top and middle notes

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Hypoallergenic labelling

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Animal testing

• Preservatives: d’Acunto asserted that in the past three years, dialogue between industry and the scientific community has really progressed, establishing better procedures.

MOST POPULAR FRAGRANCES STUDIES REVEAL It seems that woman love a change, and while in the past few year zesty, fresh citrusy scents were the favourite a new research of over 500,000 byers have identified that women are moving more towards sweet, more floral fragrances.

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CMR substances: While not everyone agrees on the ban on CMR substances is was confirmed that they will move forward.

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Microplastics: Continued restrictions are being implemented

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Nanomaterials: The EC is working on a set of different actions to address concerns on the use of nanomaterials.

These actions are set to be finalised this year.

While there were conflicting views about these actions it was confirmed that the CE is looking for a spirit of cooperation with the industry on all of these fronts.

New innovative manufacturing methodologies were also discussed as well as plenary sessions on Global beauty through the lens of consumer and an investigation of the global megatrends. APJ

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RED CARPET EXPERIENCE WOW YOUR CUSTOMERS, EARN YOUR FREEDOM IF YOU HAVE an existing business, or you are thinking of opening a new one, the Red Carpet Experience by Helen Gerasimou is for you.

This book will provide you with a practical guide on how to perfect your business and operational strategies, strengthen your consumer appeal and make you stand out from your competitors.

In an age where many salons are offering similar, if not identical treatments you can still stand out by providing a unique culture and client experience that will set you apart as a leading brand within the marketplace.

With over 36-years’ experience in the beauty industry, Helen Gerasimou is excited to share the secrets to her success, while showing you how you can gain the freedom to also have a fulfilled life that is not just focused on solving business problems. Find out what it takes to open a salon and grow it to the point where you can step back and enjoy life on your terms.

This book will help you gain new skills and a fresh new mindset on how you view and operate your business. It will help you: •

Uncover how to transition from being a therapist to becoming a successful business owner

•

It will guide you to take a closer look at your business from the client’s perspective

•

It will help you identify what is currently working, what isn’t working and what may be missing in your business to achieve optimal results.

The Red Carpet Experience is full of wonderful treasures, humour and wisdom. You will gain a new understanding and appreciation of what it means to ensure your customer experience is exceptional and make this your unique selling proposition.

This book is simply written and easy to follow. It will awaken in you a new excitement and show you how you can do things better to growth your business to new possibilities.

At the end of each chapter there are exercises that will guide you on implementing the strategies you have learnt.

For just $29.95 you can purchase a signed copy of Helen Gerasimou’s book the Red Carpet Experience – Wow your customers, earn your freedom.

To purchase a copy, visit http://bit. ly/Redcarpetexperience. The cost $29.95 plus postage and handling. $3 per copy is being donated to Think Pink cancer foundation.

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COSMETICCHEMISTRY

THE BENEFITS OF SILICONES IN COSMETIC FORMULATIONS

By Jacine Greenwood

SILICONES are one of the most misunderstood ingredient categories in the cosmetic industry. Silicones are not an ingredient, in fact they are a class of ingredients with many different types of silicones, including dimethicone and cyclomethicone.

The safety of the cyclomethicones has been reviewed on several occasions by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel. In 1991, the CIR Expert Panel reviewed available safety information for cyclomethicone (defined as a mixture of cyclomethicone compounds with 3-7 siloxane groups (i.e., D3-D7) and concluded that it was safe in the present practices of use. In 2009 the Expert Panel re-opened the report of cyclomethicones in order to consider new data and to include the individual chain length compounds now identified a ingredients were safe under current practices of use.

COMMON MYTHS ABOUT SILICONES As an aesthetician you need to be aware of common myths regarding silicones and educate your clients accordingly. Here are just some myths:

1. They suffocate the skin and trap bacteria 2. They hinder exfoliation 3. You’re creating a dependency on the silicone, disrupting the skin’s own hydrating processes, which in the end increases dryness, making fine lines and wrinkles more noticeable 4. The coating action actually prevents the skin from sloughing off dead skin cells 5. Prolonged exposure to dimethicone can actually increase skin irritation, due to the coating property and because dimethicone is listed as a possible skin and eye irritant 6. Those with sensitive or reactive skin are at risk of an allergic reaction to dimethicone 7. Silicones can actually exacerbate skin ageing, because APJ 64

they inhibit skin’s natural processes 8. The coating properties may increase breakouts, particularly if you’re susceptible to acne, which will lead to scars and older-looking skin.

In this article I would like to explore these myths and explain why silicones have a lot of benefit for the skin.

HOW SILICONES BENEFIT THE SKIN Silicones don’t actually suffocate the skin at all. They form a vapour permeable membrane. What this means is that it allows for the exchange of gases between the atmosphere and the skin. This is important because suffocating the skin stops it repairing itself. It functions as a non-greasy thin waterimpermeable (not gas impermeable) barrier over damaged skin that exhibits chronic dehydration. The film maximises the environment for barrier repair, which is necessary for the healing of extremely dry skin and dermatitis skin conditions.

It also creates an artificial barrier until the skin can repair itself. Lastly, it increases skin smoothness by functioning as an emollient to fill in gaps where damaged corneocytes are missing from the stratum corneum.

Hydration of the scar surface is the basis of action of 90% of scar management systems on the market. Most oils (tissue oils), lotions, and creams have beneficial effects on scars primarily on the basis of their hydration capacity. Normal skin has a mature stratum corneum characterized by minimal moisture loss. Dehydration of the top layer of the skin initiates signalling; inducing your skin cells to produce inflammation that activates your dermis to synthesize and release collagen. However sometimes it produces too much collagen and this is where we get scarring [11-12].

Silicones also have tremendous benefit for both acne and barrier repair. In order for the skin to heal properly, especially acne lesions they need a moist environment. This is why wounds heal better with a band-aid (sticking plaster with gauze pad) on them without one. Silicones help prevent scarring like nothing else because the increase the production of a substance called TGFB-3 (Transforming Growth Factor). This

substance is involved with scarless healing [8].

Many are misinformed that silicones prevent the penetration of other skin care actives into the skin. This is incorrect.

Common silicone fluids such as dimethicone are well known to cosmetic formulators. A general property of silicone polymers is their high permeability. The permeability of silicones makes them suitable for controlled release applications and for this reason they are used widely in transdermal delivery systems.

Cross-linked silicones such as elastomers and adhesives are a relatively new class of cosmetic raw materials that have utility in delivery systems for active ingredients “ [7].

Apart from improving the feel and long-lasting benefits of skin care products, silicones can also enhance the efficacy of other ingredients in the formulation. Studies carried out on sun care products have shown that the alkyl methicones can enhance the SPF of products containing either organic or inorganic sunscreens. A 2% addition level of stearyl dimethicone into an oil-in-water silicone containing 11% of organic sunscreens resulted in an in vivo SPF of 49.7, an SPF/UVB ratio of 4.5, thus demonstrating high efficiency [6]. For inorganic sunscreens, a 100% increase in SPF was seen with an oil-in-water system containing 2 wt% cetyl dimethicone and a 75% increase in the SPF for a water-in-oil system containing C30-45 alkyl methicone [7] Another myth is that silicones hinder exfoliation. This is not true, in fact they help to healthily thicken the epidermis. Short et al. showed that a moisturiser containing high amounts of glycerin and silicones increased maximum epidermal thickness, decreased epidermal melanin content, and altered protein expressions of keratins 6, 10, and 16, as assessed with immunohistochemistry after a 4-week treatment. Moreover, all these changes were accompanied by increased hydration of the skin [4].

Dimethicone has been shown time and time again to be non-comedogenic. Dimethicone is the ideal skin barrier enhancer because it is hypoallergenic, noncomedogenic, and nonacnegenic. [1]. It is also widely used in acne preparations for this exact reason. It actually helps acne lesions by facilitate healing and preventing scarring. Therefore, to state that it

causes acne is false. Most often those who allege it causes breakouts are actually breaking out from something else in the formula, as it is not the dimethicone.

Another myth is that silicones are irritating. Silicones are non-irritating which is why sunscreens are often coated by dimethicone to prevent irritation of the skin. In particular silicones have benefit for Rosacea skins as often they have issues with sunscreens. The coating of the particles of zinc oxide and titanium dioxide reduce this potential for irritation and it is recommended for Rosacea for this reason. [3]. It is actually one of the safest things to use on an allergic skin. It doesn’t sting and helps to heal the skin by forming an artificial vapour permeable barrier. It is the reason it is used for Atopic Dermatitis and Eczema.

The assumption that silicones interfere with the skin healing itself is based on the “assumption” that they are occlusive, which you have just found out that they are not. Silicones are used in the management of burns on the skin for their ability to prevent scarring and also to stop moisture loss. Silicones do not interact with the stratum corneum lipids [2]. The study investigated the use of four silicones (Dimethicone) and its interaction with the stratum corneum. The results revealed that the investigated Silicones do not change either the microstructure or the biphasic lamellar/inverse hexagonal structure of the skin. They concluded that silicones will not cause any side-effects when topically applied. One of the reasons Albert Kligman the father of corneotherapy endorsed silicones for use in repairing the skin barrier.

Silicones have the ability to minimise transepidermal waterloss, minimise scarring and assisting with barrier repair. Their benefit in cosmetics is tremendous and they can play a vital role in wound repair and healing. The myths surrounding them have no scientific basis and are often spread by misinformed individuals. APJ

For a list of references, please contact the editor.

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THE PATHOGENESIS OF ACNE Biofilms and the Acne Cytokine Connection - Sydney A two-day workshop that will help you master and treat acne

TREATING ACNE conditions can be a real challenge, but when you achieve excellent results it is so rewarding not to mention it boosts your confidence and reputation.

What if you could look at acne and know IMMEDIATELY what you should be doing with 100% certainty? Here is your chance to learn from a leading expert. Attend this two-day information-packed workshop and gain incredible knowledge from Jacine Greenwood on how to become an expert in treating acne conditions.

THE PATHOGENESIS OF ACNE – BIOFILMS AND THE ACNE CYTOKINE CONNECTION is the holy grail of acne knowledge and understanding. This two-day intensive workshop will blast through the roadblocks you have previously experienced when seeking credible results. You will come away with so much more knowledge on every level, and you will leave truly believing that you are an ACNE EXPERT. Just look at what you will learn in this intensive two-day workshop:

Besides walking you through the Pillars of Cytokine Influence Jacine will also teach you:

• BIOFILMS and the acne cytokine connection • IDENTIFY THE COMEDOGENICITY of ingredients that you should avoid • COSMETIC ACTIVES – Understanding which actives target which pathways • ACNE IN DISGUISE – Understanding the different types of acne • OBSTACLES AND CHALLENGES – Learn how to overcome common problems such as dehydration when treating acne • THE DOMINO EFFECT – Master cytokines that influence multiple pathways and which ingredients influence this • THE COSMETIC NIGHTMARE – Understanding actives that help, hinder and achieve FASTER RESULTS • TREATMENT PROTOCOLS – Finally understand what actives you need to be using for success

• How to STOP DEHYDRATION IN ITS TRACKS and how to use BPO successfully without the chronic dehydration.

• You will learn how to establish AMAZING CREDIBILITY so your clients will always come to you.

• You will learn how to turn around even your most difficult acne client into RAVING CLIENTS

This education, based on the above pillars of knowledge will help you gain a deeper understanding of the exact cellular responses that occur in the skin. Without this understanding, you are just guessing and each wrong guess will mean your clients will lose TRUST in you.

To get the right results we must understand how cytokines affect the skin to alter cellular communication so that you can successfully treat acne”, Jacine said.

WHO SHOULD ATTEND? • • • •

Aestheticians Dermal Therapists Cosmetic Nurses Therapists who are passionate about the skin

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Cost: $790 – Costs include Workbook and meals.

Date: Tuesday and Wednesday 14-15 August 2018 Time: 9.30am – 4.30pm Location: TBA - Sydney

REGISTER TODAY! To view testimonials of the workshop visit www.apanetwork.com

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MEMBERPROFILE

PERFECTING “ADDED-VALUE” TO AN ARTFORM HELEN GERASIMOU is a thoughtful and passionate individual who has made personal service an artform. She has a real gift of hospitality and coupled with her knowledge and expertise as a committed aesthetician she knows what it takes to be in high demand and constantly booked-out.

With over 30 years’ of experience in this industry she has managed to successfully transition through the decades and still remain current in her practices. Helen is a perpetual student regularly upgrading her qualifications. Her passion for her profession allows her to bring a wonderful fusion of the wisdom of past knowledge and experience blending it with amazing results through new advanced technologies and protocols. Clients are treated with personalised care and receive not just exceptional results, but also the most amazing, uplifting and memorable experience with attention to detail.

Helen’s multi-facetted care is something that she has truly mastered. To help share some of her secrets she has recently released a book called The Red Carpet Experience. We caught up with Helen to share with us some of her views in this interview.

APJ Q1: HELEN, HOW WERE YOU INTRODUCED TO THIS INDUSTRY AND WHAT MADE YOU SELECT BEAUTY AND AESTHETICS AS YOUR PROFESSION? I fell into the amazing world of beauty by accident. I always had a love and passion for art and science and I was very good at both of them. In 1980 when I was completing my high school education I had no idea what I wanted to do as a career, but I knew I wanted to go to university and have a career in the world of science. My parents felt I didn’t need to continue my education unless I was going to become a lawyer or a doctor and I wasn’t going to be neither.

Coming from a Greek background, my parents felt that an honourable job for a young woman was either hairdressing, beauty therapy, or a secretarial career. They felt I could do one of these jobs and still raise a family in the future. I on the other hand, wanted none of the above. The rebellion in me came out to play and I decided to apply for entry at a fashion design school. Unfortunately, I was unsuccessful at the initial entry exam.

Feeling quite deflated I looked at the initial options I was given and decided to take myself off to beauty school. To my surprise the education was all science-based and I settled into my studies quite effortlessly. I graduated on December 9th 1981 as a beauty therapist and electrologist. Over the next 36 years I continued my education, which enabled me to grow as the industry evolved into what it is today. I have a very successful business in Sydney and to this day I’m still passionate and in love with the industry. The next step for me is to help other salon owners experience the same success as I have.

APJ Q2: SHARE WITH US HOW THE INDUSTRTY IS EVOLVING OVER THE YEARS AND HOW YOU PERCEIVE IT TODAY? There have been many changes that define our industry as it is today. Back in the 80’s the clientele that visited a beauty salon were predominantly women aged between 20 and 60. Clients booked for their regular services, such as a monthly facial, waxing, manicure, pedicure and tinting. The products used were mainly botanical ingredients, but with minimal actives.

Cold cream was applied during the facial massage to allow for appropriate slip as facial massage was quite an extensive procedure that aimed to stimulate the skin, improve blood flow and improve oxygen and nutrients to the skin. The skin treatments, in comparison to today’s standards, were for the purpose of maintaining the skin’s hydration and offering the client a relaxing experience. That is all that was considered possible.

Moving forward to the early 90’s we saw the birth of day spas, a place whereby clients felt a sense of nurturing and luxury. While the skin products became more aromatic, the actives were still at a minimum.

By the late 90’s we saw the introduction of laser devices for hair reduction as well as other technologies that aimed at targeting the skin at a deeper level to stimulate collagen and elastin and improve tone, elasticity and also address pigmentation more effectively, as well as other skin conditions. We also saw advancement in active ingredients and delivery systems in skincare that were able to not just maintain basic skin health, but also offer skin improvement. Here was the beginning of result-driven treatments and progressively clients came to expect much more from the services and with these new tools, we were able to deliver these results.

Today, consumers are exposed to celebrities and their agemanagement treatments for face and body, as well as the availability of more invasive procedures such as injectables and surgical procedures. Salons have now become clinics offering not only the regular beauty services, but also treatments that involve medical-grade technologies wrinkle injections and fillers that are performed by medical professionals, and advanced protocols that instigate positive change in the skin.

Furthermore, the high level of stress with modern living, compared to 20 years ago, brings with it a number of concerns such as skin sensitivity and higher chances of skin reactions, not to mention health-related issues that have many of their origins in chronic stress. While consumers now want to see instant results, they are also seeking solutions that can go beyond the skin to enhance relaxation and minimise the impact of stress to their health. We are seeing the pendulum swing once again with consumers seeking the inclusion of nurture and care through services that are more personalised and tailored to their individual needs and delivered in a peaceful environment.

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APJ Q3: PERSONAL SERVICES SEEMS TO BE A DYING ART, WHY DO YOU BELIEVE THIS IS HAPPENING? Personal service over the years has slowly diminished, not only in the aesthetics industry, but also in other industries. I believe personal service means being of service to another person. As a society our pace of life is on overdrive, so much so that we fail to connect with each other in personable and meaningful ways. In the past, business owners would pride themselves on providing exceptional customer service. Sadly, today it’s so common to walk into a business and feel that you are not valued as an individual.

Many years ago, you would pull up at a petrol station and the attendant would not only fill your car’s tank, they would also check your oil, put air in your tires and wash your windscreen.

Today you have to do that all yourself.

The same goes with the aesthetics industry. In the past, extra care was taken to ensure the client felt valued and appreciated and this was achieved with attention to detail in every facet of their service they were given. Today I hear many clients say their treatment was rushed, it wasn’t value-for-money, or they felt they could have done it at home. Another common complaint I hear is that they feel the therapist was there only to sell them products, rather than listen and address what they wanted and needed.

Consumers now want everything and they want it now! Instant results, information at their fingertips and to add to their stress they now have social media telling them how they should look. Sadly, we are at risk of compromising good quality and exceptional results. We allow these pressures to influence the quality of our service by lowering the standards so that we can lower our prices.

The Spring Spa Wear collection has a uniform to suit everyone.

25 different designs, 7 different colours, sizes 4-30.

We also stock the best variety of Spa bedding, gowns and aprons.

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APJ Q4: EVERY BUSINESS SEEKS TO BE DIFFERENT BY THEIR UNIQUE SELLING PROPOSITION (USP). WHY DO YOU BELIEVE THAT PERSONAL SERVICE CAN BE BE AN EFFECTIVE USP? That’s easy! Very few businesses are really providing exceptional client service anymore. We all may think we are, but are we really? I have seen businesses start off with great intentions to provide amazing client service, however as things progress complacency sets in. When a business owner is busy juggling the everyday running of the business it can be at times difficult to monitor the level of service that is offered.

In reality two clinics can open within the same area and offer exactly the same treatments, however it’s the one that goes above and beyond to connect and understand their clients’ needs and provide them with value that will win in the end. It’s the personal service that will keep the client coming back and also referring friends and family to the business.

APJ Q5: YOU RECENTLY PUBLISHED A BOOK - THE RED CARPET EXPERIENCE TELL US ABOUT ITS CONTENT, WHERE CAN IT BE PURCHASED AND WHO CAN BENEFIT FROM IT? I realised there was a gap in not only the aesthetic industry, but in every industry. The lack of exceptional service unfortunately has impacted many businesses forcing them to downsize and even shut down. My book, The Red Carpet Experience is easy to read and thought-provoking. It allows the reader to stop and think about their business and analyse their sustainability and growth. Each chapter has a work sheet to get you started. It also allows the client to question the level of service they receive from the businesses they frequent. The book talks about why focus on client service, staff, systems, USP, first impressions, training, handling customer complaints (my favourite subject), where are you now and where to from here, duplicating or franchising your business, sharing your triumphs and getting a life.

I wrote this book for the first-time business owner to guide them on how to successfully set up a business. It is also useful for the business owner that has had their clinic/salon for years and needs to re-evaluate, or kick-start their passion and revamp their current operations. It is also a valuable resource for the business owner that needs to remember why they opened the business in the first place and now wants to ‘get a life’. Finally, it will help the owner that may be struggling, or is ready to take the business to the next level. To purchase a signed copy of my book The Red Carpet Experience visit http:// bit.ly/Redcarpetexperience. The price is $29.95 plus postage and handling. $3 per copy is being donated to Think Pink cancer foundation.

APJ Q6: DO YOU PROVIDE SALONS AND CLINICS WITH MENTORING AND COACHING IN ESTABLISHING AND FINE-TUNING THEIR PERSONAL SERVICES? Yes, coaching and mentoring is a big part of what I do. I start with a thorough business analysis. From the information gathered I can identify their needs and what’s missing and provide the owner with an in-depth report. From there I work closely with the owner, manager and staff to get the team focused on the business vision, identifying the salon/clinics USP, creating exceptional client service protocols, staff training and on-going support. My services can also help the person wishing to embark on the journey of opening their first salon/clinic. APJ TO CONTACT HELEN GERASIMOU 02 9529 9555 | 0404 867 656

Shop online now www.springspawear.com.au APJ 70

MEMBERPROFILE

THE PLASMA PHENOMENON

ACHIEVE LONG-LASTING SKIN TIGHTENING AND ANTI-AGEING SOLUTIONS THERE IS A NEW TECHNOLOGY that is gaining popularity and making inroads within our industry and practitioners, especially cosmetic tattooists, are keen to meet the consumer appetite for anti-ageing solutions. However, the speed at which we are experiencing technological developments is so fast that often new devices and treatments are launched on the market before objective education and training standards are identified and available on which to benchmark safety.

This is now true of the new Plasma skin-tightening procedure also known as Fibroblast therapy. Cautious to ensure that all levels of safety were examined before she introduced this procedure to her clients Sandy Bowers conducted extensive

research to identify the pitfalls and the safety perimeters of this procedures.

Sandy is a qualified cosmetic tattooist and trainer with over 25 years of experience. She is well-aware of the dangers of practicing a procedure without adequate training and qualifications. While she wanted to introduce the Plasma skin tightening treatment to her clients she moved cautiously and undertook extensive research to identify the advantage and pitfalls of Fibroblast therapy comparing various technologies and reviewing their differences to determine the safest issues. This led her to also completing comprehensive training overseas and is continuing to invest in her professional development ensuring she is delivering a safe and efficacious level of treatment outcome through this technology.

Moving cautiously forward Sandy has mastered this technique and is providing training and support to other cosmetic tattoo colleagues who are seeking to introduce this procedure to their clients.

WHAT IS FIBROBLAST THERAPY AND WHAT ARE ITS BENEFITS? As we age our skin starts to lose elasticity and texture, leading to wrinkles and creating shadows in the face that betray our age. Fibroblast skin therapy is an innovative skin tightening technique that provides a holistic approach to improving the appearance of wrinkles with the use of Plasma. The advantage of this treatment is that it is a non-surgical procedure that is able to achieve amazing results in skin tightening with longlasting benefits. It uses Plasma at a subdermal level to lift, tighten and rejuvenate the skin on the face, neck and body without the downtime associated with surgical procedures, however the results are still very impressive. The treatment is delivered through minute plasma arc dots spaced closely together and most areas of the face and body that have lose skin that needs to be tightened can be treated. The procedure usually takes between 30-60 minutes to perform and the results are seen instantly, although you will experience on-going improvement with optimal results that with appear after three APJ 72

assessed. Anyone who has a challenged immune system or has signs of cold or flue should be rescheduled when they are in better health.

to six weeks. One to three treatments at six weekly intervals are recommended to give the results that are very similar to a surgical procedure.

•

Candidates with lymphatic disorders, or healing disorders should not undergo treatment.

Improving one’s appearance is not limited to the face only.

Today’s consumers are seeking treatments that can provide them with not just face, but also improving body issues especially flabby skin that cannot be correct with diet or exercise.

•

Clients who suffer from diabetes and scar easily or heal slowly should not be treated.

•

If the client has any sunburn or heavy suntanning their treatment should be postponed.

HOW LONG DO THE RESULTS LAST?

WHAT TREATMENT OUTCOMES CAN I EXPECT?

As the treatment targets the dermis it rejuvenates and strengthen collagen giving it a new lease in life, so the results should last as long as they would with invasive surgery, this can be years, depending on the area treated.

Plasma rejuvenation however, is an incredible treatment that can achieve amazing results. Training however, should be comprehensive and practitioners will need to adhere to the appropriate protocols. They will also need to perform a detailed client assessment at the outset to determine the suitability for this treatment.

SOLUTIONS FOR VARIOUS CONCERNS

WHAT CAN I EXPECT FROM THE FIRST TREATMENT? Usually you will experience an immediate lifting effect from the very first treatment. Sometimes redness and swelling may occur which can distort the results, but you will be able to see a lifting and tightening of the skin right away. As the collagen is stimulated and increased you will start to see an increase in firmness and tightening of the treated area as the skin continues to heal. Improvement in results may be ongoing for several months post-treatment.

WILL I EXPERIENCE ANY DOWNTIME? This will depend on one’s age and their overall rate of recovery.

As we are targeting to regenerate the dermis it is normal to experience some level of sensitivity and swelling, particularly around the eyes. However, this should subsite within a few days. Some areas may weep slightly after treatment this is why it is important to gain correct training and maintain infection control standards. Weeping is as a result of plasma stimulation and this is quite normal, but as the spots begin to health they will develop into a crust, these must not be picked, as they will flake off naturally as they heal.

IS ONE TREATMENT ENOUGH? Depending on the condition of the skin being treated one or several sessions may be needed depending on the skin’s laxity and the desired degree of correction and the individual’s response to the treatment. However, appointments must be spaced out between six to eight weeks.

ARE THERE ANY CONTRAINDICATIONS? As with any procedure that targets the deeper layers of the skin contraindication need to be considered. In terms of the Plasma rejuvenation therapy there are several issues that need to be considered. These are covered comprehensively during training as there over 20. However, I have highlighted some areas here to consider:

Treatment includes, but not limited to the following: •

Eyelid eyebrow lifting as well as crows feet lines and wrinkles around the eyes

•

Lines and wrinkles around the lips that often cause the lips to sag

•

Look out for any pre-existing inflammation present in any area that you wish to treat as this would be considered as a contra-indication for treatment.

•

Additionally, Plasma can also help soften marionette lines, or nasolabial fold that may contribute to sagging cheeks

•

Check your client’s susceptibility to keloid scarring.

•

Plasma treatments can also assist with toning of the chin

•

Dark skins that are a Fitzpatrick V or VI prone to pigmentation would not be a good candidate for a Plasma treatment. In fact, anyone who is prone to pigmentation would not be a suitable candidate.

•

Forehead and frown lines can also be eliminated without the need for muscle relaxant injections

•

Overall skin that has evidence of loss of elasticity than greatly benefit from Plasma treatment

•

Any pre-existing health conditions must be carefully

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use during training and you will keep after the completion of your training. To master this technique, you are required to complete both theoretical and practical training units which are covered over a three-day intensive training period. Our theory has been compiled by our Educator/Content writer Sandra Shell who is a highly qualified lecturers at Victoria University.

Over the three days of training, Level 1, 2 and 3 will cover the following areas:

•

Not just wrinkles but also pigmentation, freckles and sun spots also benefit from this treatment

•

Jaw and neck can also experience great rejuvenation with Plasma treatments

Fibroblast Skin Therapy is an incredible treatment when it is delivered with appropriate training and with the right protocols.

It not only tightens the skin with the use of Plasma, but also has gained much success with non-surgical eye lift treatments by eliminating excess skin.

With our training we provide the Plasma Pen which you will

•

Health and Safety techniques

•

Anatomy and Physiology of the Skin

•

Set up procedures

•

Pre-care and Post Care

•

Contra-Indications, Precautions and Contra-Actions

•

Consultation procedures

•

Practical work

•

Anaesthetics

•

Face Mapping

•

Skin Conditions

After completing the training, a certificate of completion is issued to successful candidates. However, on-going support is available to all who complete their training with us for those who feel they may need further guidance. APJ For further information please contact: SANDY BOWERS 03 5678 5566 | 0433 001 816 sandy@permanentbeauty.com.au

GAIN NATIONAL REGISTRATION FOR YOUR COSMETIC TATTOO QUALIFICATION Paving the way for national standard recognition and raising the standards in Cosmetic Tattooing APAN has established CTARP - a national registration process that allows qualified Cosmetic Tattoo practitioners to become accredited and recognised, differentiating them from non-qualified technicians.

CTARP REGISTRATION The Cosmetic Tattoo APAN Registered Practitioner (CPARP) is Australia’s leading recognition symbol for best practice in Cosmetic Tattooing.

CTARP PREREQUISITE REQUIREMENTS •

Must provide evidence of a nationally-approved qualification

•

Must provide evidence of SHBBINF001 Maintain Infection Control

Once your qualifications are validated and approved you will receive the following benefits: •

Registration Certificate

•

Cosmetic Tattooing Code of Ethics

•

CTARP Code of Conduct

•

Transparent CTARP Logo for business window or door

•

Included on the National Register

To retain your CTARP Registration you will need to maintain your professional development and adhere to the standards as set out by APAN and the CTARP registration requirements.

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07 5593 0360| info@apanetwork.com| www.apanetwork.com

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• Fast & Efficient- up to 18000 rpm/ cycles per minute minute • 2 power options so you can use it anywhere - mains power & portable, mains power & portable, rechargeable battery • User friendly with full training included at no extra cost, ongoing customer cost, ongoing customer service & technical support.

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HIGHEREDUCATION

BODY CONTOURING MARKET WORTH $1.1 BILLION BY 2022

GROWING AT 7.9% COMPOUND ANNUAL GROWTH RATE

By Carmen Perkins, Program Director, Aesthetics, Torrens University Australia THE LATEST GLOBAL ANALYSIS STATISTICS in the area of aesthetic trends has identified a new growth market. Moving away from just facial improvement the new trend is now supporting a rapid growth in consumer interest in body contouring.

Body contouring is an aesthetic treatment option for individuals with unwanted fat deposits, cellulite, or skin laxity. With increasing global rates of obesity and high body mass indexes (BMIs), individuals of all ages are seeking alternatives to traditional diet and exercise to reduce their waistline and achieve their ideal body image.

As a result, the non-invasive body contouring market is growing rapidly and is opening the aesthetics industry to a much wider consumer segment to help support business growth, specifically, those who were not interested in elective surgery, but are willing to consider nonsurgical alternatives.

PREDICTIONS SUPPORTED BY GLOBAL MARKET ANALYSIS The report “MediPoint: Body Contouring - Global Analysis and Market Forecasts” recently conducted an in-depth analysis of unmet needs and adoption trends of different body contouring devices, Insightful review of the key industry drivers, opportunities, restraints and challenges. Each trend is independently researched to provide qualitative analysis of its implications and detailed analysis. The report provides figures for the body contouring market and potential revenue for 2013-2022.

This report, as well as several global reports, confirm that the target market for body contouring is not just confined APJ 76

to the more mature individual. They confirm that there is a growing number of younger consumers in the 20+ bracket who are seeking improvement in area of localised fat deposits that cannot be addressed through dieting alone.

Additionally, a growing number of men seeking non-surgical body contouring treatments are also pushing up procedure volumes.

The number of men who underwent non-invasive body contouring treatments in the US increased from 14,598 in 2012 to 26,902 by 2015, an annual increase of 22.6%. In 2015, 16.7% of non-surgical fat reduction procedures were performed on men in the US, with similar trends being seen in other 15MM countries including Australia.

THE NEED FOR SAFE PRACTICES Any procedure that instigates changes to the body requires a thorough knowledge on both pathophysiology and safety considerations. Torrens University is keeping up with advancements in the industry and are always working towards having the most up-todate technologies available for their students to work with.

Recently, introducing the CLATUU 360 to their range of body equipment. This is an exciting and innovative piece of technology available as part of the Bachelor of Health Science (Aesthetics). The CLATUU 360 is the most technologically advanced system in the market today to remove unwanted body fat. It uses a controlled cooling process that destroys fat cells but has no effect on normal cells. This is a highly effective, non-invasive way to get rid of stubborn body fat. As well as this new technology, Torrens’ Bachelor of Health Science (Aesthetics) students are also instructed in other anti-ageing dermal modalities to provide personalised, targeted, results-oriented and scientifically proven treatments embedded with an in-depth knowledge of health science.

A DEGREE WITH ADDED VALUE Graduates of the Bachelor of Health Science (Aesthetics) will bring a new level of critical thinking and problem solving to their practice. Their depth-of- knowledge will allow them to assess client and patient needs through a new understanding of pathophysiology that will enable them to achieve more advanced clinical outcomes not just for facial treatments, but also for the ever-growing trend in body contouring services.

If you wish to gain further information on the Bachelor of Health Science (Aesthetics) please contact: TORRENS UNIVERSITY AUSTRALIA 1300 575 803 enquiries@torrens.edu.au www.torrens.edu.au/courses/health/bachelor-of-health-science-aesthetics

UPGRADE YOUR QUALIFICATIONS WITH BACHELOR OF HEALTH SCIENCE (AESTHETICS) •

Innovative new courses

•

Gain a deeper understanding of health science, coupled with strong theoretical and practical skills in Aesthetics

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Access to state-of-the-art equipment

•

Practice on real clients

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10% scholarship available for members of APAN*

FIND OUT MORE 1300 575 803 | WWW.TORRENS.EDU.AU

TORRENS UNIVERSITY AUSTRALIA LTD, ABN 99 154 937 005, CRICOS PROVIDER CODE: 03389E *T&CS APPLY

APJ 77

CONFERENCEEVENT

EDUCATION AND CELEBRATION REACHES A NEW LEVEL WITHOUT A DOUBT this year’s APAN Aesthetics Conference on the Gold Coast held at the Legends Mantra was the very best we have ever had. The energy was amazing as businesses and industry professionals were treated to an incredible educational program, amazing food and a diverse range of exhibitors profiling their products, services and training.

The day started with a few yoga stretches and breathing exercises by an inspiration yoga instructor Karen James who helped delegates release any stress and prepare for a day enriched with new information and education.

First up Dr Michael Freeman presented new updated research on vitamin D sun exposure and new advances in treating various skin disorders from a dermatological perspective. We were so thrilled he took time out from his busy schedule to present his knowledge to clinic and salon owners.

The mark of a good teacher is their ability to present an advanced topic in an easy-to-understand way and his lecture had all the hallmarks of such a smooth delivery. Indeed,

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Dr Freeman is highly regarded as a leading dermatologist throughout Australia.

Tina Viney’s lecture – “Winning Strategies in Life and Business”, took a different turn to her usual industry update topic. She challenged delegates to revisit their purpose and identity and re-assess their core values. In the modern era of information overload, we are progressively becoming so outwardly focused on policies, procedures and strategic plans that we often lose sight of who we are and our personal identity. As this is increasingly becoming a phenomenon we are seeing the rise of the human strategist as the new coaching/mentoring model who are providing guidance in the area of personal development, with many of their principles based on new research studies on Neuroplasticity and Mindfulness. Tina expanded on common attributes of high achievers and challenged her audiences on the value of having clarity about their personal values as a fundamental requirements to achieve success in both personal and business life.

The issue of regulations and its interpretation under Council laws can sometimes be confusing. David Gould’s lecture on

“Updates on Health Regulations” brought clarity to this subject as he outlined the appropriate licences that are needed under Queensland law. David is the Principal Environmental Health Officer for Queensland Environmental Health, Communicable Diseases and Infection Management. His lecture was greatly appreciated by all. David works closely with industry bodies such as APAN to improve education and bring clarity to the issue of regulatory compliance.

Always passionate about ingredients Jacine Greenwood’s lecture on the “Pathogenesis of Acne and Biofilms” was enthusiastically received as therapists and clinicians gained greater insight on how various ingredients effect the skin’s biofilm and hinder or promote cell recovery. Jacine, will also be speaking at the Sydney APAN Aesthetics conference to be held at the Pullman in Hyde Park on Monday 13th August. If you would like to hear Jacine speak on ingredients and their impact on pigmentation this is your chance to hear her.

Due to popular demand Jacine will also be conducting a twoday comprehensive workshop in Sydney directly after the conference on the Pathogenesis of Acne, Biofilms and Cosmetic

ingredients visit www.apanconf.com for details (see also p,66).

Chris Testa then spoke on “Topical Anaesthetics and the Safety Imperative”. A real expert in this field, Chris brought new information to this very important topic helping practitioners gain an in-depth understanding of anaesthetics, their activities, efficacy as well as their safety issues. A topic that regularly requires greater understanding. For this reason, two very specialised area of study are available through APAN on this subject.

You can complete the Introduction to the Safe use of Topical Anaesthetics on line visit www.apanetwork.com. Chris will also be delivering the Advance Course in Topical Anaesthetics in a face-to-face workshop in Sydney early next year.

If you have completed the first course you can now qualify to register for the advance course. You can also access that from www.apanetwork.com Our final lecturer was Trish Hammond who is the Director of Plastic Surgery Hub and renowned as a social media guru.

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Trish discussed the evolving dynamics of the “Social media phenomena”, how the different platforms differ and which ones are best suited to which age demographic. She then went on to discuss simple strategies on how to plan your social medial content. This is another workshop in the making as delegates were hungry for a hands-on opportunity to build on the current skills in this area.

Morning tea was a real “feast for the eyes” as healthy and colourful raw juices, fruit and vegetables were beautifully presented with a country farm theme. Many deletes were busy taking photos of the presentation before indulging in tasting the healthy treats.

Lunch was a feast to satisfy the most demanding palette – roast lamb and port on the spit, salmon baked Wellington style and a plethora of mouth-watering baked and fresh vegetables and salads that were deliciously prepared in abundance. To finish off mouth-watering tarts and trifle were the desert of the day.

Afternoon tea included an array of over 12 ice cream choices.

Delegates were able to create their own combination to suit their taste, customising them with fruit and nuts to create a delicious desert of their choice.

There were many friendships forged among the delegates and all-in-all the feedback of the day was heart-warming and enthusiastic.

If you have never experienced an APAN Conference you have an opportunity to attend our Sydney event. We have another surprise treat for you there as well. APJ

To register visit www.apanconf.com or phone 07 55930360 for further information

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SOCIALMEDIA

MASTERING THE SOCIAL MEDIA PHENOMENON

By Trish Hammond - Plastic Surgery Hub SOCIAL MEDIA is without a doubt today’s top source for information. It’s easy and it’s accessible to everyone. It’s where a lot of people like to ‘hang out’. It allows for the creation of virtual communities as well as helps businesses by boosting their exposure and ultimately their bottom line. To understand how important and valuable social media really is, we take a look at what is the social media phenomena.

There are a few things you need to keep in mind if you want to use Facebook as a form of business advertising or promotion, the top three are:

WHAT IS SOCIAL MEDIA?

3. You want to post not only promotional information about your business, but some interesting, engaging and entertaining content as well.

There are several platforms of social media, or social media “forums” or “channels” and we will take a look at those in more detail shortly. But why is social media so popular?

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It provides people with an easy way to communicate and interact online - people don’t need to leave their houses to be “social”, have a voice in society, make friends, find a service or business, or catch up with the latest news or what’s trending in the world.

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Social engagement can come in the form of commentary, conversations and other user-created interactions.

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Even “non-techie” users can create content through various platforms such as Twitter, Facebook, Instagram, closed Facebook Groups and the list goes on.

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For a business to be really successful in today’s world and hold its own among comparable businesses in its industry it usually has to have an online presence. Social media is almost essential for a business to grow beyond its own backyard.

Let’s now take a look at the different forums and how they compare.

1. Post updates every day if you want to keep your presence felt 2. Post QUALITY content

TWITTER Twitter is the second largest social media site where people post anything they want to say within a 280-character limit - it used to be 140 but yay, they’ve doubled it.

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Around 215 million active members

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Use it correctly and you will reap the rewards

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One of the best platforms for posting breaking news

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Post updates every day if you want to keep your presence felt

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Hashtag feature

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Spot troubled customers on Twitter

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Updates can become viral in seconds

GOOGLE+

Facebook is the largest social media channel on the internet.

Here are some interesting figures (which change day-to-day, but are up to date as at writing this article):

Google+ has over 369 million users per month and is the social media channel of Google. It is a combined version of Facebook and Twitter and can increase a business’s popularity, but as with any social media forum you need to be consistent in posting updates. It also has the hashtag feature which is great for your business page.

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1.11 billion users each month, with 665 million active members

PINTEREST

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Generates up to 645 million business page views a week, and that number steadily increases each year

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Users range from young to old - the demographic is wide ranging

FACEBOOK

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While Pinterest can potentially reach millions of viewers, it can be a bit tricky. Here’s the facts: •

Around 70 million users

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Great for businesses with awesome images to share

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Backlinks to your official website

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Second biggest search engine after Google

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Demographic primarily for women between 25 to 45 years old

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Post videos that encourage sharing and engagement

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Users can easily share your visual posts

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Share how your business differs from the rest

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Create QUALITY videos to encourage channel following

INSTAGRAM Instagram is an image-sharing social media site and comes as a free, easy-to-download app on your phone or electronic device, Android and iOS. Instagram is without a doubt one of my favourite platforms but watch out for the fake accounts and fake following. Once you play around with the platform, you will realise which companies have ‘bought’ their followers and purchased their likes. Keep authentic with Instagram, and in fact with all social media platforms. Authenticity is key - those buyers of followers and likers - we know who you are!

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130 - 150 million users

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Upload photos and use some really cool filters to make your products, business or photos look awesome

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Use it to provide visual updates about your products, services, staff and other

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Users are mainly female between 18 to 36 years

LINKEDIN LinkedIn is the biggest social media site for professionals and business owners as it is a place full of opportunities to build business relationships.

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230 million users.

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2.7 million business pages

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Serious professional business information

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LinkedIn groups

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A place to connect

YOUTUBE YouTube is a video sharing platform with over 1 billion visitors each month.

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100 hours of video uploads every minute

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Owned by Google

SNAPCHAT Snapchat has started to take off in the Aesthetics industry, eg. just look at Dr Miami online surgical procedures - he is so popular on Snapchat that he has a waiting list for patients to have appointments. Snapchat is a mobile app where you can send videos and pictures that expire a few seconds after the person views them. Snapchat is essentially used for sending photos and videos to friends.

YOUR AUDIENCE AND THEIR/YOUR ENGAGEMENT For a business to be truly successful on a social media platform it can’t just create a page and then expect people to follow it, or find it with you having regular engagement. Here are a few basic rules to follow: •

Respond to people’s commentary, questions and mentions of a product or service.

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Stay active and have a presence in order to help build the community.

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Post not only business results from data-driven content but have social conversations and respond to queries as well.

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Collect data from your audience including their responses and engagement so you can better identify what your particular audience respond to best.

Determining the best social media channels for your business is essential - there’s no point in being on every social media site - pick one or two most relevant to your business and do them well. People, from consumers to businesses have become more and more invested in social media in recent years. It is a phenomenon that is here to stay, so if you’re a business looking to grow your business, you can’t not jump on board! APJ If you wish to fine-tune your social media skills. APAN will be conducting Social Media workshops with Trish Hammond. Contact info@apanetwork.com or 07 5593 0360 for further details.

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COSMETICINGREDIENTS

THE SWEET BENEFITS OF CHERRIES

By Eva Boyd THERE ARE NOT TOO MANY INDIVIDUALS who would not enjoy the sweet, yet slightly tangy task of cherries. They are a wonderful treat as a fruit, or as a juice and look wonderful as a gorgeous decoration on a cake or muffin. This delicious fruit also offers a great health punch as well as great benefit for the skin.

Conventional cherries can be divided into two primary categories: sweet and tart (sour). The Duke cherry is a hybrid mix of both sweet and tart. Sweet varieties are typically eaten fresh, while tart cherries develop a fuller-flavour when used in cooking, which is why they’re often used in baked desserts and my favourite is as a jam.

Tart cherry trees are self-pollinating, grow to about 20 feet in height and begin to bear fruit at an earlier age than sweet cherry. On the other hand, sweet cherries need about 150 to 300 chill hours during winter months. Sweet cherry trees can grow up to 35 feet, unless you buy a dwarf variety.

Another popular variety is the acerola cherry, which is renowned for its phenomenal source of vitamin C. Each acerola cherry provides about 80 mg of natural vitamin C, and since the recommended daily allowance for vitamin C is a mere 75 to 90 mg, just one of these cherries can provide you with all the vitamin C you need for the day!

Acerola cherries cannot tolerate transportation and storage, so you won’t find them in the store. Deterioration can occur within four hours of harvesting and they ferment quickly, rendering them unusable in five days or less. Unless you intend to use them for juicing, they also do not fare well being kept in the freezer. If you live in a subtropical climatic region you can easily grow them and eat them straight off the bush as they ripen for several months out of the year.

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HEALTH BENEFITS OF TART AND SWEET CHERRIES Tart cherries contain two powerful compounds, anthocyanins and bioflavonoids, which help prevent and relieve arthritis and gout. Sweet cherries are also useful against gout, as they lower both uric acid and C-reactive protein levels. In one study, gout patients who ate a one-half cup serving of cherries per day for two days had a 35 per cent lower risk of a subsequent gout attack. Those who ate more cherries, up to three servings in two days, halved their risk.

Tart cherries may also be useful for general muscle soreness.

A study involving long-distance runners found that tart cherry juice significantly reduced post-exertion pain. Other research has confirmed tart cherry juice is a valuable endurance sports drink.

Thanks to their high vitamin C content, both sweet and tart cherries may also help stave off exercise-induced asthma, the symptoms of which include cough, wheezing and shortness of breath when exercising. A meta-analysis from Finland found vitamin C may reduce bronchoconstriction caused by exercise by nearly 50 per cent.

SWEET CHERRY NUTRITIONAL FACTORS Sweet cherries are a great source of potassium, which is important for maintaining normal blood pressure. It plays an important role in your fluid balance and helps offset the hypertensive effects of sodium. Sweet cherries also contain a number of antioxidants and plant compounds with medicinal benefits, including: Vitamin C, the “grandfather” of the traditional antioxidants, the health benefits of which have been clearly established. It’s a

powerful antioxidant that helps neutralise cell-damaging free radicals.

Beta carotene, which converts into vitamin A (retinol) which is important for healthy skin and vision.

Melatonin, a powerful antioxidant and free radical scavenger that helps lower inflammation and associated oxidative stress.

It also plays a vital role in sleep, cancer prevention and general regeneration.

Based on daily environmental signals of light and darkness, your pineal gland has evolved to produce and secrete melatonin to help you sleep. Research suggests consuming tart cherry juice increases your melatonin levels, thereby improving time in bed, total sleep time and sleep efficiency.

According to the researchers “the consumption of a tart cherry juice concentrate provides an increase in exogenous melatonin that is beneficial in improving sleep duration and quality in healthy men and women and might be of benefit in managing disturbed sleep.”

Ellagic acid: this polyphenol “prevents the binding of carcinogens to DNA and strengthens connective tissue,” thereby preventing the spread of cancer cells. It also inhibits DNA mutations and inhibits cancer by triggering apoptosis (cell death) in cancer cells.

Cyanidin: an organic pigment compound with powerful antioxidant activity. By promoting cellular differentiation, it reduces the risk of healthy cells transforming into cancer cells.

One study found cyanidin isolated from tart cherries was superior to that of vitamin E and comparable to commercially available antioxidant products.

Anthocyanins, including quercetin: Sweet cherries have three times the quantity of anthocyanins than tart cherries, and those with deep purple pigments (opposed to red) have the highest amounts.

Quercetin: is among the most potent in terms of antioxidant activity and has been shown to be an effective antiviral, capable of warding off influenza and a number of other viral illnesses.

As a group, anthocyanins have been shown to promote cell cycle arrest and apoptosis of mutated cells, thereby reducing your cancer risk.

Cherries contain about 100 calories per cup, Just one cup provides us with the perfect amount of these nutrients daily.

They also help us in losing weight, as you can toss sliced cherry in your lunch time box, or eat a handful of them in the afternoon; you can also drink a cup of cherry juice by mixing water and raw cherries in a blender and topping it with ice or just eat raw cherries. They are also delicious dipped in yogurt, whipped cream and cinnamon. This also tastes very good unlike other raw vegetables and fruits.

Cherry fruit benefits also include provision of the right amount of ORAC (oxygen radical absorption capability) units to the body.

Being also an alkaline fruit, cherries can also help to maintain the body’s ideal pH balance.

Cherries also contain vitamin A, vitamin B and minerals like calcium and phosphorus (which is good for the brain). They also provide us with energy necessary for the body as they not only help in building blood, but they also support flexibility due to sodium content present in them.

CHERRIES AND SKIN BENEFITS A good source of multivitamin As cherries are a good source of vitamin A, B, C and E that means that a little cherry treat is sufficient for the multivitamin dosage needed by the body to keep the skin radiant and healthy.

Good for skin lightening Cherry juice is believed to clear dark spots and help in skin lightening. Researchers believe that its prolonged use can regenerate and rejuvenate the skin.

Anti-oxidant benefit Cherries are a very rich source of anti-oxidants, known as Anthocyanins, which are proven to be cancer eliminating agents. These help to keep a check on any cancer cells present in the body and stop them from growing uncontrollably.

Anti-ageing properties Being endowed with the highest level of anti-oxidants, in comparison to other fruits, it helps in slowing down the ageing process by fighting excessive free radicals present in the body, which make the skin look older.

Beauty sleep As we saw above the sleep inducing melatonin found in cherries will help regulates sleeping patterns. Sleep is of utmost importance for overall health and beauty. A sound sleep eventually results in glowing and radiant skin.

Benefits of Cherry for Hair Eating cherries is not only good for the digestive system and skin but is equally beneficial for the health of your hair as well. The vitamins present in cherries are capable of providing nourishment to the hair.

As cherries are quite fragile here are some tips in selecting and storing cherries: •

Buy cherries which are firm and have a glossy surface. Avoid those with cuts or bruises.

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Dark coloured cherries are the best to pick as they indicate proper ripeness.

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Cherries with bright green stems are ideal for eating. Those without stem should be consumed first as they tend to stale very quickly.

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Cherries are delicate fruits and need to be stored properly in order to get the best flavour.

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If kept in room temperature they should be consumed within 2 days, else they’ll start getting dull and won’t be healthy to eat.

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Cherries can be stored for about a week by freezing them in the refrigerator. Keep them in a plastic pouch and place in the refrigerator.

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Cherries should be washed only before eating. Washing and then storing will quicken deterioration. Always store unwashed cherries in the refrigerator.

If you want to support beautiful skin, hair and overall health, add a few cherries to your diet. They are not only delicious but will offer you great health benefits. APJ

For a list of references, please contact the editor.

APJ 85

SALONBUSINESS

THE TIME VERSUS MONEY EQUATION

STRATEGIES FOR SUCCESSFUL BUSINESS GROWTH

By Caroline Nelson

WHEN TIMES ARE TOUGH, or if you are experiencing a decrease in business turnover and profits it’s time to review your management and business growth strategy. In this article Caroline Nelson addresses areas that need to be reviewed to secure growth and to help businesses overcome their financial challenges. With extensive knowledge and experience as an expert business coach Caroline has witnessed many businesses over the years that have put her principles to practice enjoy both sustainability as well as financial freedom.

The savvy salon owner is always on the lookout for ways to keep their costs as low as possible, while maintaining high quality services that their clients deserve and on which their reputation is built on. That having been said, it’s not always easy to manage both, and striking the correct balance can be extremely difficult to do.

One cost that takes a big bite off the budget is staff salaries.

There is no doubt that salaries are a significant cost to any small business and this issue can easily get out of control. It is therefore very important that you watch every cent you spend especially when profit margins are slim. Additionally, diligently working to keep productivity high is also important in an effort to prevent profit erosion.

TIME MANAGEMENT In the aesthetics industry unlike many others, we deliver oneon-one services so it can be hard to reduce stuff numbers on hours worked. For this reason, how our employees manage their treatment and booking times will be a key factor. Good time management starts from the top down, this means management must set a good example. I would suggest if you have a time management issue and your employees often see you failing to keep to schedule and/or failing to deliver on commitments and deadline, then they will most likely pick up the same bad habits.

Unfortunately, no one has the power to add an extra hour, or APJ 86

two to the day, so it means you have to get creative with the time that you have. This will take streamlining certain activities, developing strategies and structures to your day, including “to do lists”, action plans and time-lines. The more organised you are the more organised and productive your team will be.

BUILDING A FLEXIBLE AND VERSITILE TEAM Many business owners have learnt to be flexible and to be able to multi-task when necessary, but they fail to train their employees to develop the same skills. One way to enhance productivity and keep things on an even keel is to crosstrain so a team member can pick up the task if you or any other employee is sick or not available. It is also necessary to implement a training program that quickly expands all employees’ skills and in particular, new staff members so your entire team becomes more valuable.

The benefits of building a flexible and versatile team are not just related to picking up the task when someone else is not available, it also increases efficiency, improves skills and performance and also offers more job satisfaction that often leads to higher staff retention. Building a flexible and versatile team can also provide professional development pathways to those employees who intend to make aesthetics a longterm career. Additionally, this will allow the business to better weather any staffing challenges and recover more easily from any outside influences and disruptions.

While all the above make perfect sense, invariably many business owners put off implementing many worthwhile strategies because of the age old “I’m too busy, or “I will do it but not just now… maybe next month” position. There is never a better time to make improvement and change than right now, procrastinating just draws out the pain, so don’t put critical tasks off just because you don’t have the time or energy to change, improve or delete as this is just an excuse.

ASSESSING YOUR MARKETING Another area that gets overlooked or put onto the backburner all too often is marketing. A clear indication that it’s not working, or that your marketing approach has reached its “use by” date is if you start to notice a failing off of new client numbers, or results from promotional campaigns that are no longer delivering the expected outcomes. If this is starting to happen then you need to do a marketing audit to see what is or is no-longer working.

My advice is to be prepared to recognise you have management problems as this is the first part of the solution. And then be open to expert advice and be willing to implement new strategies that will support the business and improve behaviour. At the end of the day money and continual headaches will be saved and the business will become easier to operate so that you can generate higher levels of income.

Remember also not to overload yourself – it’s OK to start with small changes, because even small steps are better than burying your head in the sand and do nothing.

One thing to check would be your website. Is it as functional as you need it to be, or have you set it up and left it for so long that it’s no longer driving business through the door? Has your social media run out of puff? Do you only post when you have a promotion and have forgotten the “social” part of sharing information, education, successes and fun things relating to your business and beauty in general? Neglect these areas and very quickly social engagement will dry up and disappear.

What I can tell you is that every one of these challenges can be turned around overnight, and/or improved. It just takes a plan and commitment and yes, some time invested to achieve this.

The old saying “time is money” is a two-way street, you need to invest to get and maintain results.

It’s important to recognise that no business runs at 100% efficiency all the time, no matter how hard or how smart you work. What is important is to recognise that a business is a living entity and will always need constant care and nurturing and I am sorry to tell you, but there will never come a time when your business will run itself.

BENEFIT FROM SKILLED EXPERT ADVICE

© Copyright Caroline Nelson 2018

One of the issues we suffer from in our industry is the fact that the vast majority of businesses have little or no formal business or management training prior to opening their clinics.

In general, most are “accidental owners” who went from being a therapist to owner of a business without any support, training and expert advice. This often results in poor and costly decisions and poor time management, which eventually leads to overwhelm.

Caroline Nelson is a beauty industry expert who specialises in helping businesses develop their brand, improve productivity and increase bottom-line profits. To learn more about her ste-by-step program for salon or spa success phone 041 0600 440.

Yes “time”, is a big determiner to what you can accomplish, but so too are resources and skills. If you want to be in business in the 21st Century then you need to get aboard the fast train because it won’t be slowing down any time soon. My advice is to seek expert support, delegate tasks to others and learn to make your time count. APJ

APJ 87

SKINCONDITIONS

UNDERSTANDING POLYCYSTIC OVARY SYNDROME AND ITS ASSOCIATED HEALTH RISKS

By Eva Boyd WHILE the problem of having lots of facial hair can seem irrelevant to someone, it may also be a symptom of Polycystic Ovary Syndrome or simply PCOS. And this condition may cause even more serious health problems, including cancer, type II diabetes, and infertility.

As an aesthetics practitioner there is much you can do to improve the skin condition and implement an effective hairremoval strategy, however, understanding the underlying causes and identifying the symptoms will allow help you guide a sufferer to also seek the support of a health practitioner.

In this article we will explore this condition and why it is often overlooked and undetected allowing individuals with this disorder to continue to suffers.

WHAT IS PCOS?

Polycystic Ovary (Ovarian) Syndrome (PCOS) is a hormonal disorder. It affects 12-18 per cent of women of reproductive age and up to 21 per cent in some high-risk groups, such as Indigenous women. It can be a complex condition to identify because there are several symptoms and you don't have to have all of them to be diagnosed with PCOS. Very few women have the same set of symptoms. The name "polycystic" suggests you might have multiple 'cysts' on your ovaries, but not all women who have PCOS have multiple 'cysts' and not all women who have multiple 'cysts' have PCOS. The term 'cysts'

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is a bit misleading. The cysts are actually not cysts but partially formed follicles which contain an egg.

OFTEN AN UNDETECTED DISEASE

What is alarming about PCOS is that many people who have this disease are often unaware of having PCOS. Studies have confirmed that almost 70% of the women who had the disease did not know about it, so learning the main signs of the disease is crucial for getting diagnosed early.

WHAT ARE THE SIGNS?

Thick dark hairs on the chin or under the nose may be not just a cosmetic problem, but also a sign of PCOS. Along with the face, it often causes excess growth of hair in other parts of the body: chest, back, arms, and abdomen. If you identify excessive hair growth in those regions of the body it is recommended to advise your client to have their doctor check them.

Gaining weight is the second warning sign of this syndrome.

Many patients with PCOS find it difficult to keep their weight under control because of the hormonal imbalance.

Mood changes are the third common sign of the disease.

People with PCOS often have to deal with severe headaches, mood swings, and depression.

If you noticed any of these symptoms, it is advisable not to

ignore them and recommend a medical checkup. In addition to that, strategies that support weight-loss have been proven to be beneficial. According to the Mayo Clinic PCOS can experience noticeably improvement with a loss of as little of five per cent of body weight. However, if you are suspecting that a client has PCOS it is imperative that they consult their doctor.

Many of the symptoms of PCOS are caused by high levels of androgens circulating in your body, causing 'hyperandrogenism'. Androgens are also called 'male' hormones, and the main one is testosterone. All women produce small amounts of androgens in tissues including the ovaries and the adrenal glands. High levels of androgens can prevent ovulation and affect the menstrual cycle.

excess hair is thicker and darker. The hair typically grows in areas where it is more usual for men to grow hair such as the sideburn region, chin, upper lip, around nipples, lower abdomen, chest and thighs.

Studies indicate that up to 60 per cent of women with PCOS have hirsutism. Women with PCOS from ethnic groups prone to darker body hair (e.g. Sri Lankan, Indian and Mediterranean populations) often find they are more severely affected by hirsutism.

HAIR LOSS (ALOPECIA)

Symptoms of PCOS may include:

PCOS is not always characterised by excessive hair. For some women with PCOS, the high level of androgens causes hair loss or thinning of the scalp hair in a ‘male-like’ pattern (receding frontal hair line and thinning on the top of the scalp).

1. PERIOD AND FERTILITY

ACNE

•

No periods, or periods that are: •

irregular

•

infrequent

•

heavy

•

Immature ovarian eggs that do not ovulate

•

Multiple cysts on the ovaries

•

Difficulty becoming pregnant

2. HAIR AND SKIN •

Excess facial and/or body hair (hirsutism)

•

Acne on ther face and/or body

•

Scalp hair loss (alopecia)

•

Darkened skin patches (acanthosis nigricans)

3. MENTAL AND EMOTIONAL HEALTH •

Mood changes

•

Depression

•

Anxiety

4. SLEEP •

Sleep apnoea (a sleep disorder where there are abnormal pauses of breathing during sleep)

PCOS symptoms present in many different ways, and some women will have only some, or mild symptoms, whereas others will have severe symptoms.

PERIODS

Although some women with PCOS have regular periods, high levels of androgens and also the hormone insulin can disrupt the monthly cycle of ovulation (when eggs are released) and menstruation. If you have PCOS, your periods may be “irregular” or stop altogether. The average menstrual cycle is 28 days with one ovulation, but anywhere between 21 and 35 days is considered “normal”. An “irregular” period cycle is defined as either: •

Eight or less menstrual cycles per year

•

Menstrual cycles longer than 35 days

As menstrual cycles lengthen, ovulation may stop entirely or only occur occasionally. Some women with PCOS also experience heavier or lighter bleeding during their menstrual cycle.

EXCESSIVE HAIR (HIRSUTISM)

Hirsutism is an excess of hair on the face and body due to high levels of androgens stimulating the hair follicles. This

Individuals who have PCOS, the higher level of androgens can increase the size of the oil production glands on the skin, which can lead to increased acne. Acne is common in adolescence, but young women with PCOS tend to also have more severe acne.

REDUCED FERTILITY

High levels of androgens and high insulin levels can affect the menstrual cycle and prevent ovulation (the release of a mature egg from the ovary). Ovulation can stop completely or it can occur irregularly. This can make it more difficult for women with PCOS to conceive naturally, and some women can also have a greater risk of miscarriage. However, this does not mean that all women with PCOS are infertile.

Many women with PCOS have children without the need for medical infertility treatment. Others may require medical assistance. As being overweight can increase fertility problems, it is important to exercise regularly to maintain a healthy weight and/or prevent weight gain. For those that are overweight, even five per cent weight loss will improve fertility.

PSYCHOLOGICAL EFFECTS

Depression and anxiety are common symptoms of PCOS. Approximately 29 per cent of women with PCOS have depression compared to around seven per cent of women in the general population and even more women with PCOS will have anxiety – 57 per cent compared to 18 per cent of women in the general population. There may be some link to hormones and PCOS but more research is needed in this area before we can understand why and how the hormones impact on mental wellbeing in PCOS. Coping with hirsutism, severe acne, weight changes and fertility problems may affect body image, self-esteem, sexuality and femininity. This may add to depression and anxiety levels.

Problems with fertility can impact on mood, particularly if fertility has been a concern for a long time.

On top of all of this, a delayed diagnosis of PCOS and problems with weight-management can make the sufferer feel discouraged and helpless. This creates a negative cycle making it harder to take charge of their health and live the healthiest lifestyle they can.

WHAT CAUSES PCOS?

While the cause of PCOS is unknown there do appear to be connections with family history, insulin resistance and lifestyle or environment.

Family history Immediate female relatives (i.e. daughters or sisters) of women with PCOS have up to a 50 per cent chance of having PCOS. Type 2 diabetes is also common in families of those with APJ 89

PCOS. There is no clear genetic contributor to PCOS currently identified and the link is likely to be complex and involve multiple genes.

of nutritious food and physical activity can assist in treating PCOS and in preventing it.

Insulin resistance and lifestyle One of the roles of insulin is to keep the levels of glucose in the blood from rising after eating. If you are insulin resistant, your body doesn’t use the available insulin effectively to help keep the glucose levels stable. Because the insulin is not working effectively, the body produces more insulin. These high levels can increase the production of androgens such as testosterone, in the ovaries. This contributes to excessive hair growth and acne, and can contribute to symptoms such as irregular periods, difficulty in ovulating, excess hair growth and acne.

Women with PCOS appear to be at an increased risk of developing the following health problems during their lives:

Insulin resistance is present in up to 80 per cent of women with PCOS and this can contribute to an increased risk of developing type 2 diabetes and cardiovascular disease.

Insulin resistance is caused in part by lifestyle factors including being overweight because of a diet or physical inactivity. While women without PCOS who are overweight can have this form of insulin resistance, women with PCOS are more likely to have a particular form of insulin resistance caused by genetic factors separate from the insulin resistance associated with being overweight.

This means women with PCOS can have: •

Insulin resistance as a result of genetic factors

•

Insulin resistance as a result of being overweight (related to diet and inactivity)

•

A combination of both of these factors

WEIGHT

Being above a healthy weight worsens insulin resistance and the symptoms of PCOS. Some women with PCOS report that when they are a healthy weight, they don’t have symptoms such as menstrual irregularity or excessive hair growth. These symptoms only appear once they gain weight. A healthy lifestyle

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HEALTH PROBLEMS LINKED TO PCOS

•

Insulin resistance (if they don’t already have it)

•

Type 2 diabetes

•

Cholesterol and blood fat abnormalities

•

Cardiovascular disease (heart disease, heart attacks and stroke)

•

Endometrial carcinoma (cancer)

SLEEP APNOEA

Women with PCOS, particularly when they are overweight or insulin resistant, can be at an increased risk of developing sleep–disordered breathing or sleep apnoea. Sleep apnoea occurs when the upper airway is obstructed during sleep.

Excessive fatty tissue in the neck can partially block the airway leading to sleep loss, fatigue, tiredness and reduced quality of life.

CONSULTATION

It is important that in your consultation your look for any of the symptoms that may point to PCOS. If these are identified it is important to alert your client to seek medical assistence. With severe cases an endocrinologist or a gynaecologist may be able to provide a more detailed assessment. An early diagnosis can help manage the symptoms of PCOS and reduce the potential long-term health risks posed by PCOS. Meanwhile, you can also support your client with appropriate skin treatments, and in the case of hirsutism, a comprehensive hair removal program can do wonders to their self esteem while also improving the quality of life. APJ

For a list of references, please contact the editor.

“Protecting your Interests”

NEW LOCATION – NEW OPTIONS Moving from strength-to-strength

For a new Business Client-Care Assessment or to review your current policies please contact THE SPARROW GROUP 07 5502 8326 sue@thesparrowgroup.com.au www.thesparrowgroup.com.au APJ 91

SCIENTIFICREPORT

CAFFEINE AND ITS IMPACT ON HEALTH AND THE SKIN

By Terry Everitt

THE BENEFITS OF COFFEE have often been disputed.

Depending on who you speak to you may get conflicting reports – so is their any real evidence that coffee is good for us?

Always comprehensive in his research investigations, Terry Everitt uncovers very sound research findings that shed light on this subject from a scientific perspective.

I think it very safe to say that caffeine is the world’s most popular stimulant. We usually associate a cup of coffee or tea with happiness, and for some of us, even relief. Some in the non-scientific field would have you believe that caffeine is not good for you, yet this goes against all the science.

It may be true that an individual might have problems with caffeine (or is it other components of coffee, soda or tea) due to individual pathophysiology, it is not true to imply that caffeine is bad for all.

HOW IT WORKS

With each additional published research, we find yet another positive affect that caffeine has, added to an already long list of effectiveness.

Coffee has many bioactive compounds in addition to caffeine. These active compounds may interact with each other, and therefore coffee consumption cannot be directly compared to caffeine consumption in its purest form (1,3,7-trimethyl xanthine), a naturally occurring methylxanthine.

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Methylxanthine is a phosphodiesterase inhibitor, raises intracellular cAMP levels, which suppresses inflammatory pathways.

Caffeine is classified as a nootropic because it sensitises neurons and provides mental stimulation, yet this is temporary.

Coffee has several bioactive compounds, apart from caffeine, such as diterpenes (cafestol and kahweal), polyphenols (lignin phytoestrogens and flavonoids), and chlorogenic acid, which has anticarcinogenic properties.

Caffeine also has proapoptotic and anti-necrotic properties so may reduce inflammation by influencing cell death pathways.

As an ATR (ataxia-telangiectasia mutated) kinase inhibitor and a Rad 3-related kinase inhibitor, caffeine promotes apoptosis (programmed cell death) of damaged cells.

Caffeine’s main mechanism concerns antagonising adenosine receptors. Adenosine causes sedation and relaxation when it acts upon its receptors, located in the brain. Caffeine prevents this action and causes alertness and wakefulness. This inhibition of adenosine can influence the dopamine, serotonin, acetylcholine, and adrenaline systems.

So, you can see that caffeine has multiple, separate actions in the body. Soon we shall see what it can do applied topically in a skin care product.

TOLERANCE

Habitual caffeine use leads to tolerance. This tolerance means the effects of caffeine will be diminished, often to the point where the only benefit a user experience is caffeine’s anti-sleep

effect. This is an ‘insurmountable’ tolerance, which means more caffeine will not overcome it. Dependant on the amount of tolerance built will take from three days to a month-long break from caffeine will reduce tolerance.

In addition to TBW, measures included urine output, blood samples taken at various times with serum and plasma analysis, body mass and diet analysis, providing as much control as possible for study variants.

There are side effects from coffee that may limit consumption in some people, including insomnia; gastroesophageal reflux, urinary symptoms (frequency), nervousness and anxiety if consuming too much.

Their data show no significant differences in the hydrating properties of coffee or water across a wide range of accepted scientific hydration assessment indices. No significant differences were observed in total body weight, although the data showed a small fall in body mass of 0.2%. Clinical dehydration is reported to be a body mass loss of between 1–3%, therefore while the 0.2% BM decrease observed in this study did reach significance; participants were nowhere near the level of clinical dehydration.

DEHYDRATION

Although there are widespread guidelines in scientific literature and media for achieving optimal hydration status and about the effects that various caffeinated beverages may have on fluid balance, there is no clear consensus about how much fluid an individual should consume.

An interesting study by Killer, Blannin & Jeukendrup (2014) the first study to directly compare the chronic effects of coffee ingestion with water against a wide range of hydration assessment techniques. They hypothesised that when ingested in moderation; coffee would contribute to daily fluid requirement and would not result in progressive dehydration.

The Killer, Blannin & Jeukendrup (2014) study, is from the School of Sport and Exercise Sciences, Human Performance Laboratory at the University of Birmingham, UK. It was a direct comparison of a moderate intake of coffee in caffeinehabituated adults against equal amounts of water across a wide range of hydration markers, including the gold standard TBW (Total Body Weight) measure. One group had caffeine (moderate dose of 4 mg/kg body weight of caffeine in four cups per day), and the control group had an equal volume of water.

The study concluded stating that caffeine does not pose a detrimental effect to fluid balance or hydration status, which reflected a previous study with almost the same parameters by Grandjean et al. (2000) published in the Journal of the American College of Nutrition.

A different study showed it does not matter how the caffeine is taken (hot or cold coffee, tea, energy drinks, sugar or sugar free), as there is no significant pharmacokinetic effect via plasma samples of caffeine concentration measured via liquid chromatography–mass spectrometry (White et al. 2016).

POSITIVE EFFECTS

There is good evidence that associates coffee with decreased risk of liver disease and liver cancer, Parkinson’s disease, Type 2 diabetes, and even improved mood and decreased risk of depression.

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Coffee is ranked sixth in total antioxidants among 1115 foods (based on weight) commonly consumed in the United States as published in the American Journal of Clinical Nutrition (Anderson et al. 2006).

CANCER

There have been reports that indicate caffeine can be anti-carcinogenic and while some early studies indicated this is not the case, each of them was animal studies, not in humans.

LONGEVITY

A recent study presented at the European Society of Cardiology, by Navarro et al. (2017), specifically looked at caffine intake of 22,500 Spanish university graduates over 10 years. With an average age of 37, found that participants who consumed at least four cups of coffee per day showed a 65% lower risk of all-cause mortality than those who never, or almost never consumed coffee. That related to a 25% lower risk for all-cause mortality for every two additional cups of total coffee per day. What was interesting was that among participants who were at least 45 years old, drinking two additional cups of coffee per day was associated with a 30% lower risk of mortality during follow up. These cardiologists from the Hospital de Navarra, Pamplona, Spain, concluded that drinking four cups of coffee each day can be part of a healthy diet in healthy people.

To be fair, limitations to the study was it was in Spain, and Spanish drink lots of coffee, so there is tolerance to caffeine almost at a heredity level. I would not suggest you try six coffees a day to live longer, merely to say that caffeine is not so bad if you want to live longer.

To show it is not only the Spanish who can live longer with caffeine, Park et al. (2017) studied 185,855 African Americans, Native Hawaiians, Japanese Americans, Latinos, and whites aged 45 to 75 years at recruitment, between 1993 and 2012.

Now, this is a major study, and ‘chance’ has nothing to do with the results. Without all the details here, the authors found coffee associated with a lower risk of death due to heart disease, cancer, stroke, diabetes, and respiratory and kidney disease. The study concluded that “Higher consumption of coffee was associated with lower risk for death in African Americans, Japanese Americans, Latinos, and whites”.

The advantages of caffeine in health and longevity keeps on going, even with liver disease and transplantation, you live longer with caffeine (Friedrich et al. 2016).

After 25 years of labelling coffee as a carcinogen linked to bladder cancer, the World Health Organization last year rescinded that advisory and announced that drinking coffee reduces the risk of liver and uterine cancer.

EXERCISE

Caffeine is a powerful stimulant, and it can be used to improve physical strength and endurance. It is long known that caffeine before exercise helps complete the exercise routine.

Caffeine is one of the most researched substances reported to help athletes perform better and train longer and harder.

However, the most research looks at the effects of pure caffeine consumed as tablets with water, which is not the way most get their caffeine. Regarding sports, most athletes get their energy hit via chewing gum (Evan et al. 2017).

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Vaseghia et al. (2016) undertook a metaanalysis of observational epidemiological studies, finding that high coffee drinkers had lower nonmelanoma skin cancer incidence compared with individuals who did not or rarely drank coffee per day.

An increase in the consumption of one to two cups of coffee per day was associated with a 3–8% reduced risk of cancers.

The evidence specified above suggests that coffee consumption might reduce nonmelanoma skin cancer occurrence in humans.

This followed a landmark study by Bøhn, Bloomhoff & Paur (2014) showed that “epidemiological evidence consistently indicates that coffee protects against liver cancer and points toward protective effects for risk of colorectal cancers. There seems to be no association between the overall risk of breast and prostate cancer and coffee intake. However, for subgroups such as postmenopausal breast cancers, advanced prostate cancers, and breast and prostate cancer survivors, an inverse association with the coffee intake is indicated”.

COFFEE MAY EVEN HELP WITH MALIGNANT MELANOMA

During metastasis, the cancer cells escape and migrate and invade adjacent tissues. Cancer cells secrete enzymes (e.g., matrix metalloproteinases) to decompose the membranes basement membrane and vascular endothelium. Caffeic acid has been shown to inhibit growth and metastasis of hepatocarcinoma cells through the inhibition of matrix metalloproteinase 9 and TNF-B activity. Additionally, the invasion of tissue is by binding to vascular endothelium via cell adhesion molecules. The coffee diterpene, kahweol, was found to inhibit TNF-b induced expression of the cell adhesion molecules vascular cell adhesion molecule 1 (VCAM 1) and intercellular adhesion molecule 1 (ICAM 1) (Kim et al. 2006).

While this knowledge is known for 12 years, more studies are being researched to replicate and authenticate finding to generalise to humans.

SKINCARE

Drinking your caffeine doesn’t have any direct, proven impact on your skin. When formulated within skincare products, caffeine works to target several common skin conditions by stimulating blood flow.

Caffeine has been used in skin care for many years, initially in cellulite treatment type products, with Zhang & Falla (2011) showing 76% of those using a fat-burning cream that contained caffeine and green tea lost an average of 0.5” inches off their thigh circumference. Caffeine-infused creams and serums are not a long-term solution to cellulite, but they can help to provide a smoother appearance for special occasions or bikini season.

Dermatology has known of the positive effects of caffeine for many years; Kaplan et al. (1978) conducted several studies on caffeine in patients with atopic dermatitis (or eczema as it was known then). Three weeks’ treatment using betamethasone, hydrocortisone or caffeine. The caffeine group performed significantly better than the hydrocortisone group, which was better than the betamethasone on three of seven scales assessed - lichenification, excoriation, and global impression.

A more recent study of 39 patients with stable plaque psoriasis showed that application of 10% caffeine-based cream produced significantly greater improvement in Psoriatic Area and Severity Index (PASI) scores than placebo. The only side effect of caffeine appeared to be mild itching (Vali et al. 2005).

Alashqar & Goldstein (2017) found patients with atopic dermatitis and psoriasis have decreased intracellular cAMP levels in cutaneous leucocytes, and the authors propose that caffeine, being a methylxanthine and hence a phosphodiesterase inhibitor, raises intracellular cAMP levels, which suppresses inflammatory pathways.

In eye gels, caffeine helps deflate puffy skin by constricting blood vessels and reducing inflammation. It also helps drain excess blood and lymph fluid to temporarily deflate puffy eyes and reduce the appearance of dark circles.

Aromatic ground coffee beans, when mixed with essential oils, make wonderous body scrubs. Ground coffee works as a relaxing exfoliation, leaving a soft, polished glow without scratching the skin. The grounds’ edges are rounder than other popular exfoliating agents, such as seeds and husks, that can be jagged and irritating to the skin.

Caffeine has highly potent anti-inflammatory properties that help reduce redness in the skin.

Coffee is also full of antioxidants, which help protect the skin from harsh weather and other environmental stressors, as well as soothe and heal dry, cracked skin.

Some interesting research just released from Estée Lauder is that they found caffeine increases the skin’s electrical potential, which is directly correlated with an increase in the skin’s water

content.

We have known for some years that the skin can act as a battery, and by changing the electrical properties of it, we get enhanced hydration.

Jaime Emmetsberger, PhD Estée Lauder Companies Principal Scientist, has been performing tests on skin’s electrical properties for quite some time, wanting to find different molecules that might affect skin’s electrical potential.

The findings were that caffeine promoted the stabilisation of cyclic adenosine monophosphate (or cyclic AMP), which has been demonstrated to modulate certain ion channels. In this case, the sodium channels. There was an increase in these channel’s expression and how this was trafficked from inside the cell and onto the cell surface, where it performed changes in ion flux.

This change in charge that’s occurring in the cell is the force that’s pulling water into the skin through a process known as electroosmosis.

Further research is required to make generalisations about this finding. However, it does show promise in providing another way to increase skins hydration and giving caffeine a place in serious skincare.

We have seen from a variety of scientific studies that caffeine is good for the body and even the skin, yet how does it get into the skin.

Caffeine is hydrophilic so putting it directly on the skin will not do much for penetration, due to Stratum Corneum penetration barriers. To overcome this, it is a simple matter to include penetration enhancers such as oleic acid or octyl salicylate, among many possibilities.

Better still is to have caffeine encapsulated with colloidal systems such as microemulsions, solid lipid nanoparticles and nanostructured lipid carriers.

Various combinations have been tried in skin care formulary, with theoretical penetration into the epidermis, with various

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degrees of success. It is also a matter of having the correct isolates of caffeine for the correct purpose.

After testing various encapsulation methods, Australian researchers, Abd, Roberts & Grice (2016) found that for caffeine, the best encapsulation were niosomes, which are liposomes containing a non-ionic surfactant, and transferosomes (ultra-flexible vesicles) which allowed significantly greater penetration into the skin and permeation across the stratum corneum.

This was preceded by a previous study by Ma et al. (2015) in testing microemulsions for caffeine delivery to inhibit UVB induced skin tumours.

Yes, that is another wonderful effect of caffeine.

Research is emerging that green, unroasted coffee beans are even richer in antioxidants than roasted beans and provide significant skin-related benefits when applied topically. Apart from the antioxidant agents, green coffee beans are also rich in essential fatty acids and vitamin E that nourish and moisturise the skin to stop sagging, discoloration, and sun damage.

Coffea arabica seed oil is extracted by cold pressing green coffee beans, no doubt coming to a product soon.

Ongoing studies published in the scientific literature provide reassurance that if people drink coffee, there is little reason to decrease consumption, and they should continue to enjoy it. APJ For your skins sake, go get a coffee.

Preferably without all the additives.

For a list of references, please contact the editor.

BEING FULLY COMPLIANT HAS NEVER BEEN EASIER! Do you have peace-of-mind that you are fully compliant when it comes to the Health Regulations, Skin Penetration requirements in your State, Privacy Act requirements or Fairwork legislative requirements for managing your staff?

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Do you have a comprehensive Code of Ethics?

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explains how you collect and store your clients’ personal data?

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Do you have a Cancelation Policy?

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Do you have a Refund Policy?

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Are you complying with the regulatory Advertising Guidelines?

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Do you have a copy of the Health Regulations for your State?

APAN, together with their solicitors, have developed over 40 legal and compliance documents and templates to help your business meet with all these requirements and run stress-free.

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PRINCIPAL DONNA MOODY MARTIN has been in the Cosmetic Tattoo industry for over 27 years and is committed to improving both the nationally-accredited SHBBSKS003 course Design and Provide Cosmetic Tattooing, as well as Microblading, Shadow and Mist Brows.

Her continual quest for improvement in the industry takes her travelling all over the world attending conferences, seminars and training with leaders in the industry. She is regularly invited to speak at conferences in China and U.S.A. September this year she is the International guest presenter for the A.A.M. in Dallas U.S.A. She will present the latest in Mist Brows, which is more of an airbrush look but performed with a Sketch tool. The disposable tool has a double-row of 16 blades set at 0.05 so in essence 32 blades entering the skin at various levels. This allows the brow to have the finest background colour called a mist. This tool is currently only available from the Australian Microblading College and Australian Cosmetic Tattoo College.

Australian Cosmetic Tattoo College offers Recognition of Prior Learning - this is the formal acknowledgement of skills and knowledge that you currently have to achieve a Government-accredited credential. You may have studied overseas, or simply have been taught in-salon and gained experience with your employer, if you are competent in Brow, Lip, Eyeliner or Breast (3 modalities) you may be eligible to apply.

Just submit evidence of your skills and knowledge. This may include on-thejob training, previous courses and life experience. You would also need to send photographic evidence of your completed work and a video as proof of the clients you have performed treatments on, client history forms etc.

Our college also insists that each student complete the on-line theory module.

This ensures that the basic knowledge of subjects including The Skin, Anatomy and Physiology, Work Health and Safety, Pigment Knowledge, Marketing and much more are up-to-date.

Donna is continually adding to her training as this provides for the addition knowledge of any new techniques and skills. Colleges who have Accreditation are at the forefront of their counterparts.

Our training is delivered only on a one-on-one basis, this ensures that the student is getting the undivided attention of their personal teacher.

Students must also hold the Accredited course in SHBBINF001 Maintain Infection Control this course is available as an online course.

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NUTRITION

THE ZINC FACTOR FOR SKIN AND BODY

By Tina Viney

COMMON SIGNS OF ZINC DEFICIENCY

WHEN DEALING WITH SKIN REPAIR it is important to understand ways to assist the body to achieve healing through its own nutrient resources and immune-defense mechanisms.

One important nutrient in the role of repair and healing is Zinc.

Zinc is a type of metal which is an essential trace element, it is needed in small amounts every day in order to maintain health and perform important daily functions. Zinc improves immunity and facilitates digestion and supports growth and repair of wounds within the body and the skin.

Zinc benefits also include its ability to act as an antiinflammatory agent and therefore it is reported to play a significant therapeutic role in reversing conditions such as heart disease and even defending the body against cancer.

Zinc is actually present within all bodily tissue and needed for healthy cell division. It acts like an antioxidant within the body, fighting free-radical damage and slowing the ageing process.

Zinc also has a big impact on hormonal balance, so for this reason, even a small zinc deficiency can result in an increased risk for infertility or diabetes.

According to researchers at the Department of Dermatology at the University of California, zinc plays an essential role in numerous biochemical pathways, organ systems, including the integumentary, gastrointestinal, central nervous system, immune, skeletal, and reproductive systems. Zinc deficiency results in dysfunction of both humoral and cell-mediated immunity and increases the susceptibility to infection.

Without enough zinc present in our diet, it’s possible to experience negative reactions like frequently getting sick, feeling like you’re always tired and run down, poor concentration, stunted growth, and the inability for wounds to heal at a reasonable time.

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Changes in appetite Changes in taste and smell Weight gain or loss Hair loss Digestive problems Chronic fatigue Infertility Hormonal problems Poor concentration and memory Slowed ability to heal skin Nerve dysfunction

THE SKIN BENEFITS OF ZINC As we are mainly working on the skin let’s take a closer look of how zinc can benefit the skin. As a trace mineral, Zinc is found in every single cell in our body, and more than 100 different enzymes need it to function. Skin cells are particularly dependent on zinc’s powerful properties, in fact, the top layer of our skin is concentrated with up to six times more of the mineral than is found in the lower layers. Here’s how zinc keeps skin healthy and glowing from the inside: •

It works as an antioxidant Though not technically an antioxidant (like vitamins C and E, for example), zinc plays a key part of our skin’s dietary defense squad. The mineral lessens the formation of damaging free radicals and protects skin’s lipids (fats) and fibroblasts—the cells that make collagen, our skin’s support structure—when skin is exposed to UV light, pollution and other skin-ageing factors.

•

It helps heal and rejuvenate the skin When we cut ourselves, zinc goes to work to assist in the healing process. First, the amount of the mineral in the skin surrounding the cut increases as enzymes and proteins ramp-up to protect against infection, control inflammation

and produce new cells and transport them to close up the broken skin. But even healthy, intact skin relies on zinc for new cell production and the function of cell membranes.

•

It calms the flair-up of lesions Pimples develop when a buildup of oil, bacteria and skin cells block pores, causing the skin around the pore to turn red, swollen and tender. Zinc, which boosts immune function, may help control that inflammatory response.

What’s more, zinc regulates cell production and turnover, and can help reduce the amount of natural oil your skin produces preventing pores from clogging in the first place.

•

How much do you need?

You don’t need much. Men should aim for at least 11 mg per day, while women only need 8 mg. Oysters, crab and lobster are a few top sources of zinc, but chicken, lean beef, beans, chickpeas and fortified cereals can also help you meet your daily goal. A balanced diet can often provide the zinc you need, but if you’re considering a zinc supplement, or wondering if you might benefit from one talk to a healthcare practitioner.

•

It’s an effective sunscreen Don’t forget about zinc’s topical power as well. Unlike chemical sunscreens ingredients that absorb into the top layers of your skin to filter out the damaging part of the sun’s rays, zinc oxide (a zinc-containing compound) acts as a physical block, stopping UV light from penetrating your skin altogether. Although the zinc acts as a shield, new technology has the ability to micronise the particles, so lotions containing it rub in like any other product and look invisible. Even better, because zinc doesn’t absorb deeply, it’s less likely to irritate skin like other ingredients might, which is why it’s often found in sunscreens for sensitive skin and products for kids and babies.

•

It clears up dandruff and relieves itchy scalp Zinc pyrithione can be used to treat psoriasis, eczema and other skin conditions, but it’s best known for diminishing dandruff. (You’ll see it listed as the active ingredient on anti-dandruff shampoo and conditioner bottles.) Dandruff occurs when a common fungus that lives on the scalp grows out of control. The resulting irritation and inflammation causes skin cells to flake off and the scalp to become irritated and itchy. Zinc pyrithione not only helps control the growing bacteria, but also reduces the amount of oil that it feeds on, while its anti-inflammatory properties calm irritation and relieve itchiness. Even if you don’t technically have dandruff, this form of zinc will still relieve a dry, itchy scalp. When using a zinc pyrithione product, massage it into your scalp and let it sit for a few minutes before rinsing.

•

It helps heal rashes and other sores A common ingredient in haemorrhoid treatments and diaper rash creams, zinc oxide helps heal skin in many of the same ways dietary zinc does: It reduces inflammation, regulates immunity and may stimulate the production of new cells. It’s also an anti-microbial, which can soothe and treat skin quickly. Research suggests it may shorten the duration and reduce the severity of a cold sore, for example.

Scan the ingredient list for zinc oxide when looking for topical treatments to help a rash or sore.

SYMPTOMS OF ZINC DEFICIENCY Zinc deficiency is quite common not just in Australian, but also around the world. Zinc deficiency occurs when our food is deficient in this nutrient, or the body cannot absorb and utilise zinc from foods due to digestive disorders or very poor gut health, such as having leaky gut syndrome. The highest levels

of zinc are found in foods high in protein — especially animal proteins, including high-quality meats, certain kinds of seafood and dairy (ideally raw milk and dairy products that are unpasteurised and organic).

Zinc is found in grains and legumes, plus it’s usually added to processed, packaged grain products like cereals. However, this type of zinc isn’t as absorbable, or useful by the body since it’s bound to “antinutrients” like phytates that actually prevent zinc absorption.

For this reason, even zinc found in whole foods like legumes and whole grains aren’t as good of a source as animal foods due to naturally occurring antinutrients that block zinc absorption. Research even points to the fact that high intake of carbohydrate foods (especially processed, packaged kinds) in the U.S and other western nations may be one reason why zinc deficiency is on the rise. In part, zinc deficiency is caused because carbohydrates are more abundant are often replacing high-quality protein sources, but also because people’s impaired digestive systems make it difficult to absorb enough zinc.

Who is most at risk for zinc deficiency? Anyone following a plant-based diet that doesn’t include meat or dairy products, such as vegans and vegetarians are usually at the greatest risk since their diets eliminate the highest food sources where zinc is found. People who suffer from severe stomach-acid issues, chronic digestive problems like leaky gut syndrome or alcoholism are also more likely to have a zinc deficiency.

It is also believed that women taking the birth control pill, or who are on hormone replacement therapies drugs may also be at a higher risk, since this can interfere with zinc’s roles in the body related to hormones.

The most common signs and symptoms associated with zinc deficiency include: •

Changes in appetite, including food cravings for salty or sweet foods

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Changes in ability to taste and smell

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Weight gain or loss

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Hair loss

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Digestive problems, including diarrhea

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Chronic fatigue syndrome

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Infertility

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Hormonal problems, including worsened PMS or menopause symptoms

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Low immunity

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Poor concentration and memory

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Slowed ability to heal wounds, skin infections or irritation

•

Nerve dysfunction

ZINC’S TOP HEALTH BENEFIT 1. Increases Immunity and Fights Colds Zinc is often taken as a natural over-the-counter remedy for fighting colds and symptoms of illnesses. When taken for at least five months, zinc may reduce your risk of becoming sick with the common cold, plus supplementing once you already feel sick can speed up the healing process. Research shows that zinc can interfere with the molecular process that causes mucus and bacteria to build within the nasal passages. Ionic zinc, based on its electrical charge, has the ability to exert an antiviral effect by attaching to receptors in nasal epithelial cells and blocking their effects.

Research conducted by the Medical Education Center of India found that when zinc was administered within 24 hours of onset of cold-related symptoms, the duration of symptoms was significantly reduced compared to the control group that didn’t supplement with zinc. Fewer patients in the zinc group had cold-related symptoms five and seven days after experiencing the first symptoms compared to those who did not take zinc.

2. Acts as a Powerful Antioxidant that May Help Fight Cancer Zinc is an effective anti-inflammatory and antioxidant agent, helping fight oxidative stress and decrease the chance for disease development, including as a natural cancer treatment. Especially in elderly patients, zinc benefits include its ability to support healthy cell division, preventing cancerous cell mutation and stunting tumor growth.

When researchers from the School of Medicine at the University of Michigan studied potential zinc benefits from zinc supplementation on 50 adults, they found that levels of oxidative stress markers were significantly lower in the zincsupplemented group than in the placebo group. Those with lower zinc levels who didn’t take supplements had higher levels of inflammatory cytokines, higher plasma oxidative APJ 100

stress markers and endothelial cell adhesion molecules.

After zinc supplementation, the incidence of illness-related side effects and infections was also significantly lower in the zinc-supplemented group, another example of zinc’s immune-boosting abilities.

3. Balances Hormones Zinc benefits hormonal health and fertility because it plays an important role in hormone production, including increasing testosterone naturally, which has very widespread roles in both men and women. Zinc also impacts female sex hormones, it is needed for the production of oestrogen and progesterone in women, which both support reproductive health. Either too high or too low levels of oestrogens can cause problems with menstruation, mood swings, early menopause, infertility and possibly even increase the risk for certain cancers.

4. Fights Diabetes Zinc is needed to balance most hormones including insulin, the main hormone involved in the regulation of blood sugar and as a diabetes natural cure. Zinc benefits blood sugar levels because it binds to insulin so insulin is adequately stored in the pancreas and released when glucose enters the bloodstream. It also allows for proper utilisation of digestive enzymes that are necessary for insulin to bind to cells so glucose is used as fuel for the body, instead of stored as fat.

5. Maintains Heart Health by Supporting Blood Vessels Zinc is needed to maintain the health of cells within the cardiovascular system, while also lowering inflammation and oxidative stress. The endothelium, the thin layer of cells that lines the blood vessels, partially relies on adequate levels of zinc. Zinc benefits heart health by supporting healthy circulation, since it helps as a natural remedy for high blood pressure and cholesterol levels from clogged or damaged arteries.

6. Aids in Nutrient Absorption and Digestion

Zinc affects protein synthesis and is required by the body to use amino acids from foods. It’s also involved in the breakdown of carbohydrates from foods, which are one of the main sources of energy for the body. For this reason, deficiency in zinc can cause low energy levels and contribute to adrenal or chronic fatigue, whereas consuming enough zinc benefits ongoing energy and a healthy metabolism.

7. Supports Liver Health Supplementing with zinc is shown to reduce the incidence of infection and correlated with lower levels of liver damage.

Zinc can help with a liver cleanse to reduce inflammation in the liver, reduces free radical damage, helps with nutrient absorption and allows for proper waste elimination.

8. Helps with Muscle Growth and Repair Zinc plays a crucial role in cell division and cell growth, so zinc benefits muscle repair and growth by making it possible for the body to heal itself and maintain strength in the muscular and skeletal systems. Zinc also helps with the release of testosterone, growth hormone and insulin-like growth factor-1 (IGF-1), all of which build muscle mass and a healthy metabolism. Additionally, it also benefits muscle mass because it helps increase the amount of testosterone the body is able to produce following exercise — especially weight-training and HIIT workouts (high intensity interval training) because it enhances the conversion rate of androstenedione to testosterone.

•

Pumpkin seeds ¼ cup: 1.6 mgs (20 per cent DV)

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Yoghurt or Kefir 1 container of plain yogurt 6 ounces: 1 mgs (12.5 per cent DV)

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Chicken 3 ounces: 1 mgs (12.5 per cent DV)

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Turkey 3 ounces: 1 mgs (12.5 per cent DV)

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Eggs 1 large: 0.6 mgs (7 per cent DV)

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Mushrooms 1 cup: 0.6 mgs (7 per cent DV)

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Salmon 3 ounces: 0.5 mgs (6 per cent DV)

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Cocoa powder: 1 tablespoon: 0.3 mgs (3 per cent DV)

ARE THERE ANY NEGATIVE INTERACTIONS OF ZINC? Taking high doses of zinc for a prolonged period can interfere with the body’s absorption of other important minerals, including copper. This has the potential to do the opposite of what’s zinc supposed to do — it can depress the immune system and impair blood cell formation.

More commonly, only short-term and minor symptoms occur when taking moderately high doses of zinc. Some people who use zinc nasal sprays and gels also experience changes in the ability to smell or taste foods, which can impact appetite.

While just a simple mineral Zinc is a valuable catalysts to improving healing and supporting skin repair and over-all health. APJ

For a list of references, please contact the editor.

WHAT DOSES ARE NEEDED? According to health experts zinc doses are influence both by age and gender. For example, children 1-3 years of age require just 3 mgs per day, 4-8 years of age require 5 mgs and 9-13 years require 8 mgs per day. On the other hand, adolescents and adult males age 14 and over require 11 mgs per day, which females age 14-18 require 9 mgs per day and females 19 and over require 8 mgs per day.

Zinc is usually available in various forms, including lozenges, syrups, gels and capsules. Zinc is also found in most multivitamin and mineral supplements. These supplements can contain zinc in the form of zinc gluconate, zinc sulfate or zinc acetate. At this stage it is believed that all work in very similar ways so one type is not thought to be superior over the others.

TOP FOOD SOURCES OF ZINC High-protein foods contain the highest amounts of naturally occurring zinc. Here are the top 12 food sources of zinc, although keep in mind the absorption rate of zinc is best from foods that don’t contain any nutrients, which are usually animal-based as opposed to plant-based (percentages below are based on the average adult women’s RDI of 8 mgs per day): •

Lamb 2.9 mgs (35 per cent DV)

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Grass-fed Beef 2.6 mgs (32 per cent DV)

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Chick peas 1 cup cooked: 2.5 mgs (31 per cent DV)

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Cashews ¼ cup: 1.9 mgs (23 per cent DV)

APJ 101 Bitmap in CEO Report Mar17

CONFERENCEEVENT

NON-SURGICAL SYMPOSIUM DELIVERS ANOTHER AMAZING EVENT

THIS YEAR’S Non-Surgical Symposium (NSS) was once again held on the Gold Coast. The event is run by the Australasian Society of Aesthetic Plastic Surgeons (ASAPS) in partnership with the Cosmetic Physicians Society of Australasia (CPAC) and the Australasian Society of Cosmetic Dermatology (ASCD).

Additionally, the event is endorsed by the New Zealand Association of Cosmetic Medicine.

The collaboration of these four societies brings together valuable industry intelligence and comradeship, contributing to a well-supported event that is fast gaining popularity and recognition. NSS has received multiple awards and last year was recognised as the State Award winner for Queensland at the Australian Events Awards 2017.

NSS wass run over three days – Friday to Sunday and this year it presented a comprehensive array of topics delivered by an impressive faculty list of international speakers from US, Canada, Brazil, Monaco, Belgium, Netherlands, Turkey, UK, South Africa, Taiwan, India and Turkey, as well as excellent Australia leaders in their medical speciality.

The lecture format was slightly different this year, often featuring a subject

presented by three or four speakers who were given 7-10 minutes each.

These sequential presentations allowed speakers from different parts of the world to present their own research bringing a more global perspective to the presentation of complementing topics.

This also allowed for a broad scope of information to be delivered in a very compact timeframe.

just erasing their wrinkles to other areas of appearance and wellbeing, including stress management, weight management and body shaping. The key focus should include solutions for conditions characterised by inflammation and stress hormone concerns, such as cortisol imbalance, as well as issues that contribute to compromised immunity.

If you were an injector this event offered you a plethora of information, as numerous techniques were presented demonstrating new ways of achieving better and more natural results. An example was Dr Peter Huang, current head of Cosmetic Centre in Taiwan who demonstrated how tightening ligaments can achieve amazing results similar to a facelift without the need for surgery, while also achieve a very natural result.

Dr Yavuzer also stated that we are moving into the evidenced-based consultative approach with new technologies now available that offer practitioners the capability to measure a treatment’s outcomes and provide patients with objective evidence of what results their treatments have deliver in an objective and measurable way. This will allow practitioners to prove to their clients or patients how their treatments have contributed to improving, or reversing their skin-ageing. These new technologies will be able to provide consumer satisfaction as results will be able to be measured and objectively determined.

Following Dr Huang, Dr Reha Yavuzer from Turkey presented two consecutive lectures – Which is more important your age or skin age? In this presentation he addressed the importance of youngerlooking skin and strategies to achieve this. He then followed with a second presentation on Age-Management: a system for better outcome. Dr Yavuzer confirmed that consumers today are seeking solutions that go beyond

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The era of not just skin, but also agemanagement is upon us and astute practitioners will move in this direction.

It was refreshing to have these advances validated. For several years APAN has encouraged the aesthetics industry to gain knowledge and develop strategies in this direction as they are based on global research confirming the growth towards body and wellness is consumer driven and brings opportunities for business expansion.

Other key highlights at the conference this year were presentations on effective ways of combining technologies for optimised treatment outcomes.

There were several presentations on the benefits of microneedling when combined with Fractional Radiofrequency (MFR). Various laser technologies and effective treatment settings for improved treatment outcomes when treating ethic skins, post-aesthetic injectables to vaginal treatment and genitourinary syndrome of menopause.

Achieving submental fat reduction in one treatment session with radiofrequency and fractional micro-needling was another interesting presentation. There were several sessions on the very important topic of the art and science of consultation, determining patient wants from patient needs and learning the novel approach to aesthetics salessubscription for complete correction.

There was an interesting panel discussion on the important subject – Who is responsible when things go wrong? The difference between Legal and Ethical. Another interesting panel looked at Beauty Trend and how consumer expectations are changing.

I didn’t attend the Gala Dinner, but I believe it was a sell-out event that all who attended enjoyed.

Once again, a well-organised and highly successful conference that no-doubt will continue to have a huge impact in the advancement of cosmetic medicine in Australia. APJ The 2019 Non-Surgical Symposium will be held on the 14-16 June at the Sydney International Convention Centre. For more information please go to www.nonsurgical.org.au

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SCIENTIFIC NEWS

Research and Scientific New Developments

Program following a recommendation from the Pharmaceutical Benefits Advisory Committee. They work is slightly different ways.

Fluzone® has four times the amount of flu antigen than the standard dose.

Fluad® has less antigen however contains the adjuvant MF59.

Best bit is they will be FREE under the National Immunisation Program, for those aged 65 years and over, pregnant women, most Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander people, and those who suffer from chronic conditions.

WEARABLE LASER TECHNOLOGY

A team of French dermatologists is taking a new approach to photodynamic therapy (PDT) for acne. Designed by scientists at Texinov Medical Textiles, the Fluxmedicare is a device made of optical fibres woven into fabric.

Skin has application of light sensitive cream then the laser fabric is then wrapped around the skin and its optical fibers work in tandem with the oxygen and cream to heal the skin.

The treatment lasts around 150 minutes, and so far, patients have reported minimal discomfort.

Previous photodynamic therapy was uncomfortable and painful, redness that could last for days, with a lot of the light being ‘lost’ due to being on a flat panel.

Clinical trials at University Hospital, Lille France and at Klinikum Vest in Germany continue and will be commercially available later this year. APJ Medical Express February 23 2018 https://medicalxpress. com/news/2018-02-fabric-imbued-optical-fibers-skin.html Retrieved April 8 2018.

antibodies.

Compared to the standard flu vaccine, the high-dose version has been shown to better stimulate the immune system of older users to make protective

It has been shown to better reduce rates of flu infection in over65s than the standard vaccine. And, interestingly, it also seems to protect against pneumonia.

Last year more than 4.5 million doses of the influenza vaccine were provided at no cost to Australians who were most at risk from the flu.

Important point: The two-available free of charge to above patient population are the two trivalent brands; Fluzone® and Fluad® and available only via General Practitioners. These are different to the quadrivalent vaccine available at pharmacies.

For this year the four strains which will be contained within in the Southern Hemisphere vaccines, available outside of General Practice, for general use are: A(H1N1): A/Michigan/45/2015(H1N1) pdm09 like virus A(H3N2): A/Singapore/INFIMH-16-0019/2016(H3N2) like virus B: B/Phuket/3073/2013 like virus B: B/Brisbane/60/2008 like virus

FLU SEASON AGAIN In 2017, 1,100 Australians died from flurelated causes. 90% were aged 65 and over.

This might not be of interest to you being so young (or at least looking so young), but read on to impart this knowledge to your parents, grandparents or older clients.

From April 2018, the trivalent vaccines Fluad® (Seqirus) and Fluzone High Dose® (Sanofi) vaccines will be available through the National Immunisation APJ 105

SCIENTIFIC NEWS

Research and Scientific New Developments

The Australian Influenza Vaccine Committee in consultation with the World Health Organization decide yearly on the composition.

At the other end of the age scale, children aged between six months and four years will be eligible for free flu vaccines in NSW, QLD, VIC, TAS, WA and ACT. Young children catch and spread the flu more than any other age group. Thousands of children are hospitalised every year; hospitalisation rates in children are much greater than in older people.

Those vaccinated are less likely to catch the virus and develop serious complications compared with those who are unvaccinated. The risk of flu is reduced, on average, by 50-60% in children receiving the vaccine.

Fluad ® has been used overseas for many years yet has only been become available in Australia this year. One problem with both these vaccines is that they only contain three strains, rather than the four strains in the current vaccine. The strain missing from the new vaccines is an influenza B type.

The main side effect of vaccines relates to their effect in stimulating the immune system. In many people they cause a sore arm and, less commonly, a fever.

No, getting the vaccine will cause you to get influenza as none of the flu vaccines used in Australia contains live virus and therefore can’t cause flu infection/ APJ Prime Minister of Australia Website https://www.pm.gov.au/media/ground-breaking-fluvaccines-protect-millions-aussies Cheng, A. (2018) Medical Observer. February 18. (Dr Cheng is Professor in Infectious Diseases Epidemiology, Monash University).

Christopher Blyth, Infectious Diseases Physician and Clinical Microbiologist, University of Western Australia; Kristine Macartney, Professor, Discipline of Paediatrics and Child Health, University of Sydney. (2018) The Conversation.

Retrieved 10/4/2018.

WET WORK EXPOSURE AND HAND ECZEMA AMONG HEALTHCARE WORKERS This cross-sectional study used an electronic questionnaire distributed to 28,762 hospital employees in Sweden on exposure to hygiene procedures and associations of occupational handwashing, use of nonsterile gloves and hand disinfectant and self-reported hand eczema.

30% reported hand washing with soap >20 times at work, 45% used hand disinfectants >50 times, and 54% used non-sterile gloves > 2 hours.

The authors, Hamnerius et al. (2017) found a higher 1-year prevalence of self-reported hand eczema was 21% among Swedish healthcare workers than reported in the general population. Hand washing with soap and use of disposable gloves were associated with the occurrence of self-reported hand eczema in a dosedependent way.

This is a solid study with 12,288 responders, including 9051 healthcare workers (nurses, assistant nurses and physicians). Trust you are wearing gloves for treatments and with so many types of gloves available you need ones that you are comfortable in without any irritation in wearing them for periods of time.

Use of frequent handwashing can take its toll with skin irritations.

Use of skin protection i.e. moisturisers are a requirement. APJ Hamnerius, N. Svedman, C. Bergendorff, O. Björk, J. Bruze, M. and Pontén, A. (2017). Wet work exposure and hand eczema among healthcare workers‐a cross‐sectional study. British Journal of Dermatology. 178(2). 452-461.

NEWFOUND “ORGAN” HAD BEEN MISSED BY STANDARD METHOD OF VISUALISING ANATOMY Interesting headline that has been promoted via social media about what the researches have termed ‘the interstitium.’ This ‘new’ anatomical space if fluid

APJ 106

filled compartments, which others for many years have called the reticular dermis of the skin.

EXTEND OF AFFECTED BODY AREA IN PSORIASIS MAY DETERMINE MORTALITY The risk of death for adults with psoriasis that impacts more than 10 per cent of body surface area is about 1.8 times greater than adults without psoriasis, according to a new study from the United Kingdom.

Surprisingly, a single measure of psoriasis body surface area involvement, at one point in time, has the power to predict this increased risk of all-cause mortality.

Pathologists at New York University, Langone provided the report reveals that layers of the body long thought to be dense, connective tissues - below the skin’s surface, lining the digestive tract, lungs and urinary systems, and surrounding arteries, veins, and the fascia between muscles - are instead interconnected, fluid-filled compartments.

Credit: Jill Gregory. Printed with permission from Mount Sinai Health System, licensed under CC-BY-ND. This series of spaces, supported by a meshwork of strong (collagen) and flexible (elastin) connective tissue proteins, may act like shock absorbers that keep tissues from tearing as organs, muscles, and vessels squeeze, pump, and pulse as part of daily function.

The researchers say that no one saw these spaces before because of the medical field’s dependence on the examination of fixed tissue on microscope slides, which squeeze the fluid out of the compartments, leaving only the connective tissue to be seen. These researchers used confocal laser endomicroscopy, which is not exactly new, was a different approach to how such microscopy is undertaken.

While interesting and I think highly possible that they are correct, I will wait until this is confirmed by other researchers and further publication in a peer review journal. I am unclear, with the use of electron microscopy used for many years, that every other researcher in the world has missed this.

This paper was published March 27 in Scientific Reports, a peer reviewed open access journal (peer review is at the discretion of the editors) where the authors pay the journal an article processing charge (APC) to be published. This charge is dependant on where you are – at present the APC is US$1,760.00 APJ Benias, P. Wells, R. Sackey-Aboagye, B. Klavan, H. Reidy, J. Buonocore, D. Miranda, M. Kornacki, S. Wayne, M. CarrLocke, D. Theise, N. (2018). Structure and Distribution of an Unrecognized Interstitium in Human Tissues, Scientific Reports. 8 (4947). DOI: 10.1038/s41598-018-23062-6

The analysis of 8,760 adults with psoriasis and 87,600 adults without the disease is the first broadly representative study to evaluate how direct measures of psoriasis severity impact death risk.

Noe et al. (2018) found adults with psoriasis were more likely than those without to have chronic kidney disease, chronic obstructive pulmonary disease, diabetes and a history of heart attack providing a mortality rate of 3.35 deaths for every 1,000 person-years.

Risk of death was 79 per cent higher in those with a body surface area of more than 10 per cent. And while those with less severe psoriasis might have been at higher risk for important comorbidities, they didn’t have an elevated mortality risk, according to the authors.

This is not the first study to show increased mortality risk associated with psoriasis.

Gelfand et al. (2007) study found a 40 per cent increased mortality risk among patients with severe psoriasis, compared to people without and Salahadeen et al (2015) study showed a reduced lifespan for psoriasis patients, compared to the general population, which worsened with disease severity measured by treatment patterns. Psoriasis’s link to increased mortality lies in the longterm effects of systemic inflammation from severe psoriasis, however I do believe more research is needed to determine how socioeconomic variables impact mortality risk in people with psoriasis.

If you are treating client/patients with psoriasis (and there is much you can do to help) then make sure they are seeing a dermatologist so to be targeted for preventative health interventions. APJ Noe, M. Shin, D. Wan, M. Gelfand, J. (2018). Objective Measures of Psoriasis Severity Predict Mortality: A Prospective Population-Based Cohort Study. Journal of Investigative Dermatology. 138(1):228-230. doi: 10.1016/j. jid.2017.07.841.

APJ 107

NUTRITION

COLLAGEN INTEGRITY AND KNOWING THE IMPORTANT DIFFERENCES OF THE VARIOUS TYPES

By Eva Boyd

WE KNOW THAT when it comes to the skin collagen is a very important component. Indeed, much of what we do to the skin is targeted at strengthen and stimulating the integrity of collagen. In this article we will look at the various types of collagen and their benefits as well as the value of collagen supplementation.

When attempting to support collagen in the body you can also supplement if you are deficient by taking collagen in the form of gelatine to help improve the health of your hair, skin or nails.

However, as you are aware there are different collagen types and each type offers different benefits. Did you know that aside from water, collagen is the most plentiful substance in our bodies and is a building block for skin, tendons, and bones?

Before we review the supplementation of collagen let’s first consider the various types of collagen. Below is a list and their function in the human body. While most of us are familiar with Type 1, 2 and 3 for hair skin and bones, there are actually 5 different types of collagen with different functions: •

Collagen type 1: This is known as the strongest and most prevalent type of collagen in the body. Type I collagen is made of different fibres that are part of the human body and our organs. This includes our skin, ligaments and tendons. When you hurt yourself and your skin, the collagen of type 1 plays an important role in the healing process. It helps the skin remain elastic and supportss our body so it doesn’t tear.

•

Collagen type 2: This type of collagen is primarily concerned with cartilage and how it is built in our bodies.

Cartilage is a flexible connective tissue which is very present during our infancy and progressively gets replaced by bones. Type 2 collagen is important as it is beneficial to reduce, prevention and help with pains that can come up such as with arthritis and joint pain.

•

Collagen type 3: This protein type is an important element of the cellular pattern that is found in our skin and other important organs. Type 3 collagen is also the foundation of the blood vessels in our heart. Low level of type 3 collagen proteins has been linked to issues with blood vessels than can have serious health consequences.

•

Collagen type 5: This protein is needed by our bodies to create the tissue found in woman’s placenta as well as what we use for our cells’ surfaces. The woman’s placenta is critical for healthy pregnancy.

•

Collagen type 10: Collagen of type 10 plays an important role in the articular cartilage as well as how our bones get formed over time. It is known to play a part in the healing process of bone fractures, as well repairing specific sets of joints for us.

When supplementing collagen, it is important to note that collagen types contain different proteins which serve separate purposes within the body. Types 1 & 3 can be taken together and may support skin, muscles, bone health, and hair and nail growth.

On the other hand, Collagen Type 2 protein makes up the fluids and function in the cartilage and joints. Type 2 collagen supplements should be taken separately from Types 1 and 3 to ensure adequate absorption.

There are 19 amino acids (proteins) found in Collagen Types 1 and 3 – each essential to functions and maintenance within skin, muscles, and bones. These types are produced by fibroblasts (cells in connective tissues) and osteoblasts (cells that make bones).

Over 90 per cent of collagen in the body is comprised of Type 1 & 3 Collagen. Proteins in these types include glycine, proline, alanine, and hydroxyproline.

•

Glycine – the amino acid found at the highest levels in collagen, requires more serine (a non-essential amino acid) than our bodies can naturally produce. Studies suggest the need for glycine supplementation to achieve ideal metabolic processes.

•

Proline – is also a non-essential amino acid synthesised from glycine and important in function of joints and tendons

•

Hydroxyproline – amino acid that plays an essential role in the stability of collagen

•

Alanine – amino acid used in the biosynthesis of proteins.

Collagen Type 2 is produced by chondrocytes (the non-cellular APJ 108

matrix of cartilage) – a liquid-like filling within the cartilage.

•

Why supplement with collagen if it already naturally occurs in the body?

• Studies also confirm that supplementing with collagen may also, “increase skin hydration by 28%, decrease micro-furrows by 26%, and increase skin suppleness by 19%.

Over time, the ideal levels of collagen our bodies naturally produce begin to wane. Collagen fibres break down or no longer regenerate, and lead to a “deflation” effect on the surface of the skin.

promote glycine production which builds leans muscle and helps burn fat during sleep

COLLAGEN TYPE 2 FOR JOINT AND CARTILAGE SUPPORT

The diminishing effects of reduced collagen Type 2 are less obvious and often go unnoticed or are considered “normal” for the ageing process.

Suggested use to take at bedtime on an empty stomach. To improve effectiveness, do not take in conjunction with Type 1 & 3.

Research indicates that by the age of 40, the body’s ability to produce collagen decreases by 25%. By age 60, it has decreased by over 50%.

Collagen Type 2:

Despite being made up of non-essential amino acids, the supply of ideal levels of naturally occurring collagen cannot meet the demand.

Though it is possible to obtain extra collagen through diet (consuming animal products such as gelatinous meats, the cartilage on bones such as chicken drumsticks, and skin from poultry), some may find it unappealing or difficult to eat enough to support their body’s requirements.

Collagen Types 1 and 3 are the most important for hair, skin, nails, and bones

•

Makes up 50-60% of protein in cartilage

•

Makes up 85-90% of collagen in articular cartilage

•

May reduce popping knees

•

May support back, jaw, and joints

Finding a high-quality collagen supplement in the type you need and formulated for easy absorption is easy once you know what to look for. Collagen supplements are appropriate and beneficial for adults of all ages. Hydrolysed collagen supplements are available in the form of tablets, capsules, powder, or even tasty chewables.

Suggested use to take with juice or Vitamin C supplement in the morning. Take separately from Type 2 Collagen.

Nutraceuticals are now become commonplace with salons and clinics, and with greater knowledge and qualifications the multidisciplinary approach is rendering better treatment outcomes.

Collagen Types 1 & 3 may:

SKIN AND AGE-MANAGEMENT

•

minimise fine lines and wrinkles

•

improve elasticity

•

support the bone matrix (36% of bone is made up of collagen Type 1 and 3)

•

correct weak or damaged nail beds

•

thicken fine hair, slows hair-loss

Welcome to the era of Skin and Age-Management. I truly believe that in the next 10 years we will see a total transformation to how we address skin ageing. It will not just be about the topical approach, but a more inclusive multidisciplinary approach that will involve diet, exercise, stress management and nutrition.

Rejuvenation will start at a cellular level supporting several organs, not just the skin. APJ

•

improve circulation

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NUTRITION

OREGANO

MORE THAN JUST A SALAD HERB

By Tina Viney

I KNOW WHAT you may be thinking – of all the essential oils why pick oregano. Its aroma is strongly herbal and reminds you of a Greek, or Italian salad. However, oregano oil has probably some of the strongest healing properties. As an aromatherapist who has been trained in clinical aromatherapy, oregano oil was highly praised during my studies with Dr Daniel Pinoel as one of the most powerful anti-vital oils because of its unique chemical constituents.

There are several essential oils that can boast to have antibacterial properties, however, there are very few that have ANTI-VIRAL properties. This is attributed to the high percentage of the therapeutic chemical constituents known as Carvacol and Thymine found in oregano. Additionally, oregano essential oil possesses other amazing properties such as, antibacterial, antifungal, antiparasitic, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, digestive, emmenagogue, and an anti-allergenic substance.

Carvacol and Thymine in oregano oil stimulates the flow of bile in the gall bladder. As such, it treats respiratory tract problems, colds and flu like nothing else, menstrual cramps, dyspepsia, urinary tract infections and bloating. It is also excellent in healing wounds. I would not be without oregano oil in my first aid kit.

LET’S TAKE A CLOSER LOOK AT THIS AMAZING OIL About Oregano Essential Oil Oregano is a plant native to higher altitudes and normally grows in the mountains, which is how it is named “Oregano”, meaning “delight of the mountains”.

The disinfectant, antibacterial properties and antiviral properties of oregano essential oil were first recognised in ancient Greece where it was often used for treating bacterial infections on the skin or wounds. It was also used to protect food from bacteria. The essential oil of oregano is extracted through steam distillation of fresh oregano leaves, which bear the scientific name Origanum vulgare. Its chief components are carvacrol, thymol, cymene, caryophyllene, pinene, bisabolene,

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linalool, borneol, geranyl acetate, linalyl acetate, and terpinene.

It is used in many ways, like in aromatherapy, which has been the most popular use for decades. You can also apply it topically onto the skin, or within a carrier oil like almond or avocado oil for improving your skin quality.

Health Benefits of Oregano Essential Oil Along with being respected for its antimicrobial properties, this oil has many medicinal properties as well. Let’s take a look at them below. There are also scientific studies that validate these properties Relieves Respiratory Conditions Oregano essential oil can act as an expectorant, which loosens up or helps eliminate the uncomfortable build-up of mucus and phlegm in the respiratory tracts and sinuses. It is also a soothing balm for inflamed lungs and throat, which may often stimulate coughing fits. For this reason, oregano essential is effective in preventing and treats symptoms of respiratory ailments.

Anti-inflammatory This oil is good for soothing many types of inflammation, internal or external, caused by a variety of reasons. When it is applied topically, it can reduce redness and irritation onto the applied area and also relieve pain associated with arthritis or injury.

Prevents Infections Just as it protects you against viral infections, oregano oil protects you against bacterial infections as well. This gives you an additional level of protection against bacterial diseases such as infections in the colon and urinary tract, as well as typhoid, cholera, sores, skin infections, and food poisoning. Also, the antibacterial effects of oregano don’t have an inhibitory effect on the health, so you don’t suffer from the side effects of medications.

Oregano oil is also rich in antioxidant polyphenols, quercitin and rosemarinic acid. As such, it has a high amount of oxygen

free-radical absorption capacity or ORAC value. This improves the capacity to heal.

Antifungal Viruses, bacteria, fungi, and protozoa are the four agents that are responsible for communicable and infectious diseases. Out of these, fungi are responsible for some of the most dreadful and fatal infections, both internal and external. They can cause ugly, painful, and deadly infections in the ear, nose, and throat, which, if not treated early, may reach the brain and become lethal.

Many skin infections are also caused by these fungi. Oregano oil, if used regularly, either internally or externally, can effectively protect the body against many of these fungal infections.

Antiparasitic Many types of parasites, such as roundworms, tapeworms, lice, bed bugs, mosquitoes, and fleas live inside or outside the human body. These parasites use the human body as a source of food and as a vessel or carrier of communicable diseases. Oregano essential oil, when ingested, can eliminate intestinal worms, and when applied externally, it effectively keeps away lice, bed bugs, mosquitoes, and fleas. Hence, it is not uncommon to find oregano essential oil as a component of organic bug sprays and repellents.

Regulates Menses This powerful oil is beneficial for regulating menstruation and delaying the onset of menopause. Those suffering from obstructed menses may also find relief by using oregano essential oil. As an emmenagogue, it can help a woman reduce her symptoms of oncoming menopause, including mood imbalance and hormonal shifts.

Anti-allergenic This is another side of the sedative and anti-inflammatory properties of oregano essential oil. Allergies are hyper-reactions of the body towards external stimuli. Oregano oil, a sedative in nature, calms down this hyper-sensitivity and is known to give

relief from allergy symptoms. Through its anti-inflammatory quality, the severity of allergies can be reduced, which is important for serious reactions like anaphylactic shocks or swelling in the throat.

Promotes Digestion Oregano essential oil promotes digestion by increasing the secretion of digestive juices. It also increases the nutrient digestibility and enzymes which aid in absorbing food. This can improve your health by maximizing the nutrients you get from food!

Skin Benefits Oregano essential oil has been shown to help heal psoriasis, eczema and athlete’s foot. Furthermore, it can be used to treat bacterial infections like E. coli, giardiasis and food poisoning. It relieves congestion, and certain studies also confirm that it is a powerful painkiller, with the added benefit that it works without having any strong side effects. Oregano oil purifies blood and is rich in minerals and vitamins. You could also apply it on your skin to get relief from irritations, itches and infections.

Benefits to the Hair Oregano oil is great for your hair. It helps your hair grow, prevent dandruff and keeps the hair healthy and strong. When you mix oregano oil with carrier oils such as jojoba oil or olive oil, it helps to improve the texture and quality of your hair. Use this hair mixture once every week or once every fortnight for best results.

If you suffer from dandruff add a few drops or oregano oil to your shampoo to treat the condition.

USING IT IN BODY TREATMENTS Oregano oil blends well with geranium, lavender and lemongrass to create a wonderful relaxing body treatment with immune system boosting properties and anti-viral properties.

An excellent blend to wart against travel, as well as winter bugs.

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ESSENTIALOIL

THE MECHANISMS AND BENEFITS OF LEMONGRASS

By Tina Viney LEMONGRASS is renowned for its use in Asian cooking. With its fresh aroma similar to lemon, but lighter in fragrance it can add a delightful flavour to meat, fish or vegetarian dishes, with just a few small slices from the root of the grass. Rich in essential oil, lemongrass offers many health benefits as well as benefits for the skin, so in this article I would like to profile some of its amazing therapeutic properties.

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Anti-inflammatory

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Antifungal

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Antimutagenic

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Antimalarial

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Antioxidant

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Antiparasitic

Originating in the East, lemongrass and its oils have been part of local traditions and medicine for centuries. With the resurgence of essential oils worldwide and increasing popularity in the West, lemongrass essential oil has become one of the more popular choices in aromatherapy.

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Detoxification

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Hypoglycaemic

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Neurobehavioral

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Pain relief

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Lowering cholesterol

As science is beginning to validate the mechanisms and benefits of lemongrass we are identifying novel ways for its use from mucle pain to cosmetics.

In gardening circles, lemongrass is a beautiful ornamental grass that helps repel mosquitoes. In fact, whole “grass gardens” of intentionally grown grass meant for aesthetics are popping up, and lemongrass is a favourite. Outside of trendy garden spaces, lemongrass is a culinary staple in Thai cuisine as an herb with the its intense refreshing flavour and aroma.

LEMONGRASS ESSENTIAL OIL – CHEMICAL CONSTITUENTS AND BENEFITS Distilled from the dried blades of grass, Cymbopogon citrates has many chemical constituents that contribute to its beneficial actions. They include alcohols, ketones, terpenes, aldehyde, and esters. Many of these categories of chemicals are known for their very strong effects on the body – which is good news.

We see that strength play out in its many beneficial actions. To list a few, lemongrass essential oil uses have been studied for the following actions:

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Lemongrass’s strong detoxification properties are attributed to its powerful antioxidant properties.

Research has shown that lemongrass compounds can induce detoxification enzymes and can actually prevent toxicity and even cancer in cell-line models. The compound citral is the perfect example because it can increase the activity of a key phase II detoxification enzyme known as glutathione-Stransferase, and researchers suggest it has a possible role in skin cancer prevention. Next to lemon myrtle (90-98% citral) lemongrass essential oil contains one of the richest amounts of citral (upwards of 85%) and has proven to be a potent detoxifying agent.

In addition to the detoxification effects we've seen above, lemongrass essential oil can heal the body primarily because it is comprised of geraniol and neral, both found in other citruslike essential oils. It exhibits a few properties pretty strongly, with a range of applications that extend from those benefits.

Here are eight actions that underscore lemongrass essential oil's strengths.

ANTI-INFLAMMATORY: Inflammation can rear its ugly head in chronic illness, pain, skin conditions and more. In fact, ageing itself is due to the on-going presence of low-level inflammation.

It's one of the reasons researchers in Algeria took the time to evaluate lemongrass in 2014. They evaluated the results of a topical lemongrass essential oil preparation on mice for anti-inflammatory effects as well as antifungal effects (but we'll get to that in a minute). The results were clear enough that they noted lemongrass “clearly…inhibits the skin inflammatory response.”

ANTIFUNGAL: In the same study, antifungal properties were examined as well, against multiple fungal enemies including the dreaded Candida albicans. With what may be a surprising twist, inhalation seemed to be the strongest application against candida. Final results were that lemongrass exhibits “noteworthy potential for the development of drugs for the treatment of fungal infections.” In another study conducted a few years ago, in 2008, lemongrass showed “a potent in vitro activity against Candida.”

ANTIMICROBIAL: To take lemongrass from an antifungal for the body to a super-cleaning oil as well, lemongrass does in fact have antimicrobial benefits. For example, food scientists have been monitoring lemongrass for its ability to inhibit Staph and improve food preservation. In a study and a review, published in separate journals over the course of a year, lemongrass was viewed favourably as an option for food safety applications.

For you and I, this means lemongrass is a powerhouse in the cleaning department, especially in the kitchen and bathrooms where mould and microbes really take hold.

COMBATS AIRBORNE PATHOGENS: Diffuse lemongrass with geranium to replicate 2009 efforts to mitigate airborne and surface bacteria in a UK study. They were able to reduce bacteria like MRSA and strains of resistant bacteria by as much as 89% through diffusion and sprays, declaring the oils to be successful disinfectants. Add lemongrass to DIY spray cleaners

for kitchen counters to limit surface microbes and bacteria and for bathrooms to inhibit the growth of mould.

ANXIOLYTIC: Folk use of lemongrass includes antianxiety treatments, and in 2011, scientists worked to confirm these effects. By evaluating neurotransmitters and their response to lemongrass exposure, they were able to track the way the body processes the oil. Their findings centred around the GABA receptors in the brain and confirmed an anti-anxiety reaction.

Diffusion and inhalation are typically the best methods of administration for anxiety, providing an immediate access to the oil's properties.

SKIN LIGHTENING: Lemongrass has also demonstrated skin lightening properties. It blends well with lemon, geranium, lavender, cypress, fennel, clary sage and cedarwood. The best carrier oil to use for skin lightening is sesame oil. In terms of the skin lemongrass can help refine skin texture and combat bacterial infection, such as folliculitis because of its strong anti-bacterial and astringent properties. It also has a mild constricting action on the skin minimising the appearance of pores and the secretion of sebum as well as offering a temporary skin-firming benefits.

Just like lemon essential oil, lemongrass essential oil contains limonene, which is rich in vitamin C and helps detoxify the skin clearing congestion and brightening it.

While lemongrass essential oil offers many benefits to the skin it should not be used on sensitive skin or damaged skin as it can cause irritation. Make sure it is diluted to a 1-2% strength within a carrier oil and do a patch test if you suspect any sensitivity. APJ

For a list of references, please contact the editor.

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ANTI-AGEING

WINNING THE BATTLE AGAINST HAIR-LOSS

By Zac Turner

FOR SOME OF US HAIR-LOSS has either already had its way or is soon to be knocking at our door. Whether its stress, bad diet, ageing, or inherited through genetics, no one looks forward to losing their hair. However, there are now effective ways to keep your luscious locks and even regrow them. Starting preventative treatment during the beginning phases of hair loss will yield the best results, but it’s now possible to still renew your healthy mane even when you thought all hope was lost.

Before we jump into how the hair begins to fall out I would like to recap briefly on the anatomy and physiology of hair growth.

As you may remember hair undergoes three phases of growth: ANAGEN PHASE: This is the growth phase where hair follicles remain in for about two to six years. The longer it lasts here the longer it grows. Normally around 80 to 85 per cent of hairs on the head are in this phase.

CATAGEN PHASE: Typically, the catagen phase is about two weeks long. This stage allows the follicles to renew themselves.

TELOGEN PHASE: This is the resting phase where the hair follicles lie dormant for one to four months.

After this phase the anlagen phase begins again, the existing hair is pushed out of the pore by the new growth and naturally sheds.

STRESS AND HAIR-LOSS Stress is one of the leading causes for hair-loss among men and women of all ages. To understand this one must understand how stress affects the body as a whole. When the body is subjected to long-term or short-term stress it switches out of our parasympathetic nervous system and into our sympathetic

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nervous system (both divisions up our autonomic nervous systems).

The sympathetic nervous system is known as our ‘fight or flight’ response system, which is sympathetic to the situation at hand. During this division our body inhibits the digestive system, increases heart rate and blood pressure, and releases specific hormones. All this is necessary, but only for certain periods of time. Long-term stress will prolong this response and in turn can bring about hair loss. Inhibiting digestion over long periods of time will reduce one’s ability to correctly absorb nutrients and specific vitamins required for adequate hair growth. Increased heart rate and blood pressure caused by increased levels of adrenaline and noradrenaline increases blood cholesterol, which over time can cause blood clotting in the arterial walls, thus reducing blood flow to those hard-toreach capillaries of the scalp, resulting in inhibiting hair growth.

Most importantly however, during a sympathetic response the body releases the stress hormone corticosteroid, which can suppress effectiveness of the immune system. It does so by lowering the number of lymphocytes. These compounding atop one another will indefinitely lead to hair-loss. Stress is not allowing the anagen phase to begin, again because under stress the body is allocating nutrients to other parts of the body that are considered more important that the reproduction of hair follicles.

A great way to combat stress as a whole is to stay active. Being active will help circulate blood to hard-to-reach places. This allows the body to adequately distribute nutrients that are required for all parts of the body - in our case those nutrients are required for adequate hair growth. In addition to helping blood flow reach the follicle, it will reduce the compounded stress levels you have been feeling.

DHT – DIHYDROTESTOSTERONE AND AGEING What is dihydrotestosterone? This androgen hormone is responsible for giving males their male characteristics. The enzyme 5-alpha- reductase (5-AR) Type 2 converts testosterone into DHT in the testes and prostate. This hormone is evident in that it causes follicles to miniaturise, thus contributing to hairloss.

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Zinc

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Niacin (Vitamin B3)

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Fatty acids

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Vitamin D

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Vitamin A

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Selenium

DHT is thought to attach to the androgen receptors on hair follicles and appears to trigger the receptors to miniaturise. This miniaturisation shortens to anlagen phase and does not allow the follicle to reach its normal size and when it reaches the telogen phase it is not as well-attached to the body and will fall out faster and more easily.

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Vitamin E

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Folic Acid

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Biotin

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Protein

For men, the best way to combat this much needed, yet problematic hormone is to inhibit its conversion.

Pharmaceutical drugs that inhibit Type 2 enzyme 5-AR are the most efficient way of reducing hair-loss due to age.

More investigation is needed on DHT to better evaluate its relationship to hair follicles but for now inhibition of Type 2 5-AR is the most prominent and used treatment.

It stands to reason that having a well-balanced diet will contribute to maintaining normal hair growth. Supplements may be taken, however note that over-supplementation may result in toxicity and can further contribute to hair-loss. By following a well-balanced diet with a variety of foods you should be receiving adequate nutritional support, however, it’s important to get your blood tested at least annually to pin-point any deficiencies or excessive levels.

THE ROLE OF NUTRITION As we all should know by now, a well-balanced, nutritious diet will contribute to one’s overall health. A healthy diet will also contribute to proper brain and immune system function and lower on the totem pole adequate hair-growth.

According to studies the following deficiencies are main contributories to hair loss of hair growth deficiency: •

Iron

To conclude, hair-loss for some seems inevitable, but with proper treatment before those larger bald spots begin to peak through, one can truly reverse their hair-loss.

Hair-loss has been proven to dramatically reduce a person’s self-esteem and overall confidence, not just for men, but also for women. Taking note of simple nutritional strategies and stress management can be a worthwhile endeavour towards prevention. APJ

For a list of references, please contact the editor.

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SKININGREDIENT

IS THERE ANY EVIDENCE THAT OATMEAL CAN BENEFIT THE SKIN?

By Eva Boyd OATMEAL Avena sativa is one of those ingredients that seems to offer a solution for so many things, but what about the skin?

You will often find oatmeal listed as a common ingredient particularly in cleansers, so is it just a fad, or are there any clinical studies that validate its benefits?

If you do a quick search in Pubmed (www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/ pubmed/25607907) you will find several studies that investigate how oats (Avena sativa) in their colloidal form effect the skin when applied as a topical treatment for a variety of skin conditions, including skin rashes, erythema, burns, itches and eczema.

Studies that investigated the mechanism of action of the antiinflammatory activity of colloidal oatmeal found evidence that it diminished pro-inflammatory cytokines in vitro and that the colloidal oats skin protectant lotion used in the study showed significant clinical improvements in skin dryness, scaling, roughness, and itch-intensity.

The studies concluded that colloidal extract of oats exhibits direct anti-inflammatory activities, which may provide the mechanisms for observed dermatological benefits, when using the colloidal oatmeal skin protectant lotion.

Another interesting study examined the effect of colloidal extract of oats on skin inflammation associated with patients undergoing chemotherapy.

Nearly everyone would agree that dry skin can be annoying, uncomfortable and even unsightly, but cancer patients undergoing chemotherapy treatments have a particular need.

A study conducted at Georgetown University in the US identified that curtain chemotherapy drugs, such as Cetuximab can cause nasty rashes. Various treatments were tried and failed and there appeared to be no clear preventive, or curative treatment for this eruption.

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The researchers heard about a study where human skin fragments from plastic surgery were subjected to an inflammatory chemical and adding an oatmeal extract and this appeared to help. As a result of these findings, the researchers at Georgetown University decided to trial it on cancer patients.

Of the 10 patients exhibiting chemotherapy drug-induced rashes who agreed to try the oatmeal extract lotion, six had a “complete response” and four had a “partial response,” which the scientists deemed to be a 100 percent rating for the oatmeal extract.

Here’s why: According to Journal of Drugs in Dermatology study, saponins in oatmeal give it the ability to cleanse, moisturise and soothe the skin, basically providing a “buffer” to keep skin hydrated and protected.

Additionally, phenols found in oatmeal proved to be strong ultraviolet absorbers and the starches and beta-glucans present in oatmeal are recognised as humectants, therefore able to hold water, which furthers the product’s ability to act as an emollient. Those beta-glucans are quite interesting in how they benefit the skin. Let’s take a closer look at how beta-glucans can benefit the skin.

THE INCREDIBLE BENEFITS OF BETA-GLUCANS FOUND IN OATMEAL A Lithuanian study identified beta-glucans as naturallyoccurring polysaccharides. Glucan molecules are a polysaccharide of D-glucose monomers, linked by glycosidic bonds. Many beta-glucans are medically important. They represent a drug target for antifungal medications of the echinocandin class. The study reported that beta-glucans benefit the skin by: •

Increase host immune defence

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Exhibit anticarcinogenic activity

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Confer antioxidant and anti-inflammatory capability

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Fight cancerous tumour formation and metastasis

The Georgetown University study noted that current treatment modalities for epidermal growth factor (EGFR)-positive cancers unfortunately cause side effects, for which there were no effective treatments. It also showed colloidal oatmeal to have “multiple anti-inflammatory properties with known effects on arachidonic acid,” which is important for skin health.

Doctors from various universities in several countries were also intrigued enough by the study to try oatmeal extract on their own patients and got the same incredible results. DermNet New Zealand lists other skin conditions that may benefit from colloidal oatmeal: •

Atopic and contact dermatitis (eczema)

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Chickenpox

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Insect bites

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Poison ivy

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Dry skin

Additionally, compounds in colloidal oatmeal exhibit ultraviolet light absorption to protect against sun damage and photoageing, as well as inhibiting prostaglandin production.

A SIMPLE BATH REMEDY While oatmeal can be found in various skincare formulations, there are also simple recipes you can make yourself by using organic oats to create your own formula. Here is just one simple way to include the benefits of oats in a bath.

As oats absorb water easily and helps keep your skin hydrated and soothed, you can make your own silky colloidal oatmeal bath at home to gain these benefits and the process is quick, easy and inexpensive. Simply place a cup of organic dry oatmeal into a blender, coffee grinder or food processor and process until it becomes a fine powder.

Sprinkle about a cup of ground oatmeal into warm rather than hot water, the latter of which tends to further dry your skin.

Soak for about 15 minutes, but not too long. Afterward, pat your skin dry to retain some of the oatmeal benefits.

In is incredible that such a simple topical agent can produce wonderful benefit where more complex therapies have failed. In an age when ever more expensive treatments are consistently being championed, it would be a great pity if this inexpensive, natural approach to relieving skin irritations was not utilised.

THE NUTRITIONAL VALUE OF OATS For those who would love porridge as part of their breakfast here is further information on the nutritional composition and benefits of eating oats.

Oats are among the healthiest grains on earth. They’re a glutenfree whole grain. Studies show that oats and oatmeal have many health benefits. These include weight loss (when eaten in moderation), lower blood sugar levels and a reduced risk of heart disease.

They are a good source of carbs and fibre, including the powerful fibre beta-glucan and also contain more protein and fat than most grains.

Oats are loaded with important vitamins, minerals and antioxidant plant compounds.

Half a cup (78 grams) of dry oats contains Manganese 191% of the RDI Phosphorus 41% of the RDI Magnesium 34% of the RDI Copper 24% of the RDI Iron 20% of the RDI Zinc 20% of the RDI Folate 11% of the RDI Vitamin B1 (thiamin) 39% of the RDI Vitamin B5 (pantothenic 10% of the RDI acid) This portion will give you 51 grams of carbs, 13 grams of protein, 5 grams of fat and 8 grams of fibre, but only 303 calories. This means that oats are among the most nutrientdense foods you can eat. APJ

For a list of references, please contact the editor.

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The Highest Professional Standards now has a New Name As the Aesthetics industry continues to advance so has the need to identify its leading practitioners through a new Standards Recognition Registration Classification.

APAN REGISTERED AESTHETICS PRACTITIONERÂŽ (ARAP)

Is the new industry Registration. Applicants will be assessed on their qualifications, knowledge, skills and standards. Industry professionals are invited to apply for Registration.

There are five Registration Classifications:

] Registered Aesthetics Practitioner Clinician ] Registered Aesthetics Practitioner ] Registered Aesthetics Practitioner Associate ] Registered Aesthetics Practitioner Master Educator ] Registered Aesthetics Practitioner Educator

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APAN

PRACTITIO N

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AESTHET IC

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ED

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REGISTE R

Who can apply:

ARAP

Dermal Clinicians Dermal Therapists Cosmetic Nurses Skin Therapists Aesthetic Practitioners Educators A Quality Assurance Officer will assess each application on their qualifications and merits and determine eligibility.

APPLY TODAY For further information visit www.apanetwork.com and complete an ARAP Online Application Form.

If you require further details please phone APAN 07 5593 0360.

TIPS FOR BETTER BUSINESS

Business & Legislation, New Tools and Research Outcome

LET’S BE FRANK Running a small business today can be hard work. It takes grit, determination and the understanding that success does not magically happen overnight. And who better would understand this than those who have experienced it — and succeeded.

We picked comments from six Australian business owners who have weathered the storm and can speak from the heart. It matters not that they may not be from our industry. The issue is they still face the same challenges that most businesses face – staff performance, maintaining an optimistic and positive mindset during difficult times and making important decision every day in a constantly changing world.

No. 1 Gemma Munro, Managing Director of Inkling Women: I have two pieces of advice for business owners. First, wellroundedness is entirely overrated. So many people make business decisions based on filling gaps. Instead, find out what it is you love to do and do it well as much as humanly possible.

This is how we achieve our full potential – by focusing on our strengths and utilising them as much as possible, never by fixing our weaknesses. When you base your business around your strengths you never have to worry about your competitors – you’ll outstrip them by miles.

No. 3 Daniel Flynn, Co-founder and Managing Director of Thankyou Group: A good idea doesn’t guarantee success – everyone has one.

The value is in the execution of that idea and that’s where your focus needs to be. You’ll be surrounded by people who always ask of you, “But what will happen if you fail?” Instead, ask yourself “What if we succeed?” This is why it’s important to surround yourself with a great team who support each other.

The people and culture are the lifeblood of your business, so be sure to devote the deserved energy and time. Ban the word “budget” from initial marketing and creative meetings – it limits brainstorming and keeps everyone thinking small. Always start with the thought: “If we had no limitations, we would…”.

Then work from there and remind yourself everyday of those big objectives. Finally, excuses just give you permission not to succeed – don’t make them.

No. 4 Martin Halpen, Founder of The Fruit Box: Honesty. Definitely honesty. Having a culture of honesty is critical, it’s the building block and foundation to everything we do in business. As long as you’ve got honesty among the culture of your workplace, that helps you build trust and allows you as a business owner to take your foot off the accelerator and let people around you shine, rather than suppress them or strip them away of their individuality.

Second, seek and listen openly to others’ advice, but only take the advice on board if it feels right to you. Others will mean well and absolutely have your best interests at heart, but will give advice based on their experience, their hopes and their fears.

You know your business better than anyone else – trust your instincts.

Love your clients. People look at their clients as a challenge and sometimes adopt an “us against them” mentality, but I think the relationship between business and its clients is like a marriage.

You can decide to either be in a marriage of convenience or in a marriage of love, so you absolutely need to find a way to love your clients, and you’ll find that positive business outcomes follow as a result of that.

No. 2 Mat Peterson, Founder of Shiny Things: Foster innovation in your workforce. A business will only thrive when you’ve got a team who feel comfortable with critiquing and challenging decisions in an open environment where they’re given the freedom to innovate and create change.

This in turn means you, as a leader, will make majority of your decisions correctly, allowing you to stay in business and potentially even dominate the space.

No. 5 Greg Taylor, Founder of Clipp.co: Ensure that you are always ahead of the curve. Actively seek fresh approaches and rationalisations to go back to both existing and prospective clients. Identify the problems your product solves as well as pain-points it addresses for your customers.

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TIPS FOR BETTER BUSINESS

Business & Legislation, New Tools and Research Outcome

No. 6 Bertrand De Oliveira, Co-Founder at Touch Payments: Be persistent and find a mentor early. In start-ups and small businesses, you have to move fast, often with limited knowledge or information to make the perfect decisions.

Finding a mentor early, who’s been there before and has experience in the areas you don’t, can really help guide you through important decisions and help you prioritise what’s important. As an entrepreneur you’re constantly thinking ahead and it’s very easy to lose focus on your core goal. At the same time, be persistent and learn from your mistakes; don’t make the same mistake twice! Never give up, even if someone tells you “no” or “it won’t work” a few times, as you improve your product or service, keep coming back to try to convince him. Be careful though, you have to have a good sense when you are pushing it too far. APJ

online, so make sure you’re there.

5. Don’t forget call-to-actions! At every single point that your customer makes contact in your marketing and sales efforts, there should be a call-to-action that leads back to your contact us page, a landing page, an opt-in form, and so on.

6. Blog. Give people a reason to keep coming back to your website. Blog and give them tips, case studies, your latest products– make sure you keep giving them a reason to visit you on the web. Staff they are interested about.

7. Email marketing. Collect your clients email addresses (with their permission) and email them about upcoming specials or events. You can even filter messages out to target specific people.

8. Build a referral network. Word of mouth is the most powerful type of advertising, so build relationships with professionals and other businesses you would happily refer your customers to and who can send referrals your way, as well.

9. Partner with other businesses for co-promotion. Co-marketing is a win-win situation as essentially two brands team up on a campaign or piece of content such as a webinar, e-book, or even a special competition.

Each company gets exposure to the other’s audience.

10 TIPS TO MAKE YOUR MARKETING EFFORTS SOAR IN 2018 1. Know your “why.” It is not enough to be (a bit) faster or less expensive than your competitors. Your potential clients want to know why your business is operating.

People don’t buy what you do, they choose you on why you do it.

2. Be consistent in your messaging and branding.

People need to recognise you, no matter where they see you. Also, please make sure all messaging has been spell-checked.

3. Use social media, but you don’t need to be on every platform. Just because there are lots of social media platforms, that doesn’t mean you have to do them all.

Look at what your clients are using and use just a couple of platforms.

4. Make sure you have a website and update it often.

In the digital age, if your business doesn’t have a website or even a mobile website, you are majorly missing out.

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10. Offer free consultations. Get the conversation going by offering a one-time meeting which is a great way to showcase your expertise and get more clients. APJ

GETTING THE MOST FROM YOUR STAFF Who would not want to see their staff performance improve.

In our industry many business owners who are also practitioners tend to “mother” their staff and rescue them when they are struggling.

While it is important to offer your support when a staff member is experiencing difficulties, it’s also important to make sure that you are

not hindering their development and in allowing them to solve their problems.

Here are some considerations if you are looking at improving productivity:

1. Don’t be Afraid to Delegate: While this tip might seem the most obvious, it is often the most difficult to put into practice. We get it - your company is your baby, so you want to have a direct hand in everything that goes on with it. While there is nothing wrong with prioritising quality (it is what makes a business successful, after all), checking over every small detail yourself rather than delegating can waste everyone’s valuable time. Instead, give responsibilities to qualified employees, and trust that they will perform the tasks well. This gives your employees the opportunity to gain skills and leadership experience that will ultimately benefit your company.

You hired them for a reason, now give them a chance to prove you right.

2. Match Tasks to Skills: Knowing your employees’ skills and behavioural styles is essential for maximising efficiency. For example, an extroverted, creative, outof-the-box thinker is probably a great person to pitch ideas to clients, so put them on the reception desk.

However, they might struggle if they are given a more rule-intensive, detail-oriented task such as adhering to protocols and procedures. Asking your employees to be great at everything just isn’t efficient–instead, before giving an employee an assignment, ask yourself: is this the person best suited to perform this task? If not, find someone else whose skills and styles match your needs.

3. Keep Goals Clear and Focused: You can’t expect employees to be efficient if they don’t have a focused goal to aim for. If a goal is not clearly defined and actually achievable, employees will be less productive.

So, try to make sure employees’ assignments are as clear and narrow as possible. Let them know exactly what you expect of them and tell them specifically what impact this assignment will have. One way to do this is to make sure your goals are “SMART” – specific, measurable, attainable, realistic, and timely. Before assigning an employee a task, ask yourself if it fits each of these requirements. If not, ask yourself how the task can be tweaked to help your workers stay focused and efficient.

4. Incentivise Employees: One of the best ways to encourage employees to be more efficient is to actually give them a reason to do so. Recognising your workers for a job well done will make them feel appreciated and encourage them to continue increasing their productivity. When deciding how to reward efficient employees, make sure you take into account their individual needs or preferences. For example, one employee might appreciate public recognition, while another would prefer a private “thank you.” In addition to simple words of gratitude, here are a few incentives you can try: 5. Cut Out the Excess: If possible, try not to give employees smaller, unnecessary tasks when they are focused on a larger goal. Take a look at the team’s routine and see if there is anything that you can cut to give employees more time to focus on higher-priority assignments. For example, if employees are asking to write daily reports for their supervisors, but supervisors generally don’t have time to read them, consider cutting the report requirement. Doing something simply as a formality is wasting valuable time that could be used for accomplishing goals that actually help your company.

6. Train and Develop Employees: Reducing training, or cutting it all together, might seem like a good way to save company time and money (learning on the job is said to be an effective way to train, after all). However, this could ultimately backfire. Forcing employees to learn their jobs on the fly can be extremely inefficient.

So, instead of having workers haphazardly trying to accomplish a task with zero guidance, take the extra day to teach them the necessary skills to do their job.

This way, they can set about accomplishing their tasks on their own, and your time won’t be wasted down the road answering simple questions or correcting errors. Past their original training, encourage continued employee development. Helping them expand their skillsets will build a much more advanced workforce, which will benefit your company in the long run. There are a number of ways you can support employee development: individual coaching, workshops, courses, seminars, shadowing or mentoring, or even just increasing their responsibilities. Offering these opportunities will give employees additional skills that allow them to improve their efficiency and productivity.

7. Give Each Other Feedback: There is no hope of increasing employee efficiency if they don’t know they’re being inefficient in the first place. This is why performance reviews are essential – measure your employees’ performance, then hold individual meetings to let them know where they are excelling, and what areas they need to work on. Increasing employee efficiency isn’t all about what they can do better – some of the responsibility falls on you as well. But just like your employees, you aren’t psychic. So, after reviewing your employees, ask them what you could do to help them

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Business & Legislation, New Tools and Research Outcome

1. improve. Maybe they would like a little more guidance on certain tasks or would prefer a little more room for creative freedom. Asking for feedback not only gives you clear, immediate ways to help your employees improve, but also encourages a culture of open dialogue that will allow for continued development over time. APJ

EFFECTIVE WAYS OF ENCOURAGE HEALTHY HABBITS IN THE WORKPLACE If you’re a leader in your workplace, your employees’ health may not be something you consider part of your managerial strategy, but it should be. It can have a significant impact on your team’s performance. A focus on wellness can lead to improved productivity, morale, loyalty and retention.

Healthy employees also take fewer days off to care for themselves and family members.

Yes, you read that right. Improving the health of an employee actually impacts their entire family’s health, since the benefits of those new habits — such as cooking at home and exercising regularly — often carry over to their children and spouse, leading the employee to need fewer sick days. Of course, you can’t mandate that your team members make better decisions when it comes their health, so what can you do? Change the company culture. Here’s how:

1. Discourage “Toughing it Out: Many employees think they’re showing their dedication to the job by showing up to work even though they’re battling a cold, or they may be afraid to take their holidays they wanted to use them otherwise. But just one sick person in the salon can lead to multiple people needing to take time off. Instead, make it clear that you don’t value coming to work if they are not feeling well. Be aware of how you respond when someone calls in sick. Make sure you’re showing APJ 122

more concern about how they’re feeling than how they’ll get their work done. If someone does come into the salon looking under the weather, politely but firmly tell them to go home and rest up. And above all, set a good example by staying away when you’re ill.

2. Rethink the Snacks: If a staff member is stocking up

on unhealth sweets, soft drinks or diet coke, encourage them to review their habits. Try to make sure you have health teas, fruit and healthy snakes and support a policy of health eating. Energy can only come from nutritious food.

3. Offer Classes: Why not organise for a yoga class or a stress management class that you sponsor to establish healthy habits? The best way to find out what your employees are interested in is to ask them. Create an informal survey, and plan based on the feedback. You may even be able to get employees involved (and keep costs down) by seeing if anyone has a skill they’d like to teach the group. Often, that can lead to more interesting and fun options than you can come up with yourself.

4. Take Meetings Outdoors: If it’s a nice day and you are having a staff meeting find a nice place to conduct this outdoors. This is particularly effective for brainstorming meetings. The change of scene can help employees relax, open up and get creative. The fresh air can help improve their physical, mental and emotional health. Whatever managerial strategies you employ, it’s crucial that you “walk the walk.” It isn’t just about setting an example — it’s also about sending a message that you support your employees making healthier decisions, even if they’re a little outside the box. APJ

New Member Benefits Constantly looking at ways to improve their members’ bottomline, APAN is pleased to announce it has secured St. George Bank as a new Strategic Alliance Partner.

This alliance has secured excellent corporate rates, savings and benefits to help you run your business in a more efficient and cost-effective manner.

BUSINESS CHEQUE ACCOUNT FOR DAY-TO-DAY BANKING

+ Instant access to available funds through multiple channels + 24/7 electronic access + Versatile and cost

BUSINESS BANKING ONLINE

MARKET LEADING EFTPOS TERMINALS

+ Complete online access

+ Fast and efficient

24/7

+ Fast, efficient and secure + Browser and mobile access

processing through stand alone or integrated terminals

+ Full contactless and chip support

+ Multiple connectivity

effective

and fall-back options including WiFi, IP & 3G

TRANSACTION & MERCHANT BANKING:

BUSINESS LENDING PRODUCTS:

EQUIPMENT LEASING AND RENTAL:

Dennis Donaldson donaldsond@stgeorge.com.au 0423 849 689

Paul Barbagallo barbagallop@stgeorge.com.au 0423 841 150

Amanda Drane dranea@stgeorge.com.au 0434 369 353

Please quote your membership number to secure your special rates. If you are not a current member of APAN there are several options available to you. Call us today on 07 5593 0360 or www.apanetwork.com for further details.

Conditions, fees and charges apply. These may change or we may introduce new ones in the future. Full details are available on request. Lending criteria apply to approval of credit products. This information does not take your personal objectives, circumstances or needs into account. Consider its appropriateness to these factors before acting on it. Read the disclosure documents for your selected product or service, including the Terms and Conditions or Product Disclosure Statement, before deciding. Unless otherwise specified, the products and services described on this website are available only APJ 123 in Australia from Westpac Banking Corporation ABN 33 007 457 141 AFSL and Australian credit licence 233714.

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There is no better time to further your career in the Clinical Aesthetics and Dermal Therapy industry.

Our Qualifications: • Bachelor of Applied Health Science (Clinical Aesthetics) • Associate Degree in Applied Health Science (Dermal Therapy)

To find out more or to apply for our next intake please contact us on Email: support@tac.edu.au Telephone: 1300 227 603 Website: tachw.edu.au

Australasian College of Health & Wellness Accredited higher education provider specialising in the discipline of applied health science.

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MHM Higher Education Pty Ltd; ABN 16 139036 721, trading as the Australasian College of Health & Wellness; TESQA ID PRV13002; an approved FEE-HELP provider; Level 21, 580 George St, Sydney NSW 2000.