Autumn Volume 36 2018
Aesthetics Practitioners Journal is the official publication of the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network PTY LTD.
Results without Compromise
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IN THIS ISSUE AUTUMN VOLUME 36. 2018 BUSINESS & PERSONAL AND PROFESSIONAL DEVELOPMENT
42
36
CHOOSING THE RIGHT SOCIAL MEDIA CHANNELS FOR YOUR PRACTICE
60-64
TIPS FOR BETTER BUSINESS
40-41
IS YOUR BUSINESS PROVIDING EMPLOYMENT, OR PROFITS?
APAN INDUSTRY REPORTS, NEWS AND PRODUCTS 8-9
92-93
10-14
104-108
HEART-2-HEART COVER STORY
66-64
MASON & YOUNG – A NEW BUSINESS MODEL WITH DIFFERENCE
PRODUCT INNOVATIONS GIPPSLAND COSMETIC LASER CLINIC – RAISING THE BAR ON STANDARDS
114-115
AESTHETIC BULLETIN
SEMINARS, EXPOS AND CONFERENCES 24-27
APAN AESTHETICS CONFERENCES GOLD COAST
110-112
LASER AND COSMETIC MEDICINE CONFERENCE
50
124
APAN STAFF AWARDS – WE WANT YOUR STAR
REGULATIONS, STANDARDS AND EDUCATION 20-21
70-72
34-35
74
THE ROLE OF DERMATOLOGY BEHIND SUCCESSFUL FACIAL TREATMENTS NEW REGULATORY CHANGES UPDATE
116
54-55
WEIGHT LOSS FOR BETTER HEALTH
64
UPCOMING INTERNATIONAL AESTHETIC EVENTS
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ACHIEVING OUTSTANDING TREATMENT RESULTS AND THE POWER OF KNOWLEDGE TERTIARY QUALIFICATIONS AND THE FUTURE OF AESTHETICS
82-84
MICROBLADING AKA FEATHER-TOUCH EYEBROWS
118-119
THE PILLARS OF AESTHETICS
66
SCIENTIFIC RESEARCH, TREATMENTS AND TECHNOLOGY 16-17
WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT REDHEADS
32-33
ACEMELLA OLERACEA EXTRACT
94-95
ADD SOME SIZZLE IN YOUR LIFE WITH MANDARIN ESSENTIAL OIL
96-99
THE EVOLUTION OF THE HUMBLE SOAP
COOL THERAPIES – EFFECTIVE STRATEGIES FOR THE TREATMENT OF INFLAMMATORY SKIN CONDITIONS
50-52
100-102
42-44
NEW RESEARCH ON THE BENEFITS OF ALOE VERA IN SKIN INFLAMMATION
56-58
THE HOLLYWOOD MAKEOVER
76-78
THE EVOLUTION OF THREADS FOR FACE LIFTING
86-87
THE MENTAL ATTITUDES THAT LEADS TO LONGEVITY
88-91
FUELED BY THE POWER OF KETONES
EDELWEISS – THE POWERFUL MOUNTAIN FLOWER WITH POWERFUL ANTI-AGEING BENEFITS FOR THE SKIN
112-113
Editor Katherine McCann (07) 5593 0360 info@apanetwork.com www.apanetwork.com
Printed For Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network ACN: 136 987 169 ABN: 25 136 987 169
Typesetting & Graphics Angus Thompson TEV Group
Accounts Payable Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network PO Box 5448, Q Super Centre QLD 4218
Advertising & Marketing Tina Viney Phone: (07) 5593 0360 info@apanetwork.com Fax:(07) 5593 0367 Mobile: 0412 177 423 Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network PO Box 5448, Q Super Centre QLD 4218 Australia Publisher TEV Group Pty Ltd Design & Production Artwork and Editorial TEV Group Pty Ltd Unit 7D 76-84 Robina Town Centre Drive, Robina QLD 4226 Australia Phone: (07) 5593 0360 info@apanetwork.com Fax:(07) 5593 0367 Mobile: 0412 177 423
Journal Advisory Board Terry Everitt - Education Features Wendy Neely - PR and Marketing Dr Douglas Grose - Scientific Content Caroline Nelson - Business Features National Advisory Council John Fergusson Terry Everitt Bill Anton Gill Fish Vanessa Kirkham Maureen Houssein-Mustafa ISSN: 1836-9812 Pint Post Approved [100000257] Circulation 6900
SCIENTIFIC NEWS
116-117
THE MANIFESTATIONS OF FACIAL AGEING
120-122
ADAPTOGENS – NATURE’S MIRACLE ANTI-STRESS AND FATIGUE FIGHTER
Autumn Volume 36 2018
Aesthetics Practitioners Journal is the official publication of the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network PTY LTD.
Front Cover Distributed by PHYT’S Australia 1300 656 627 info@phyts.com.au www.phyts.com.au For further information see pages 10 -15
Results without Compromise
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The Aesthetics Practitioners Journal is the official publication of the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd, a network organisation established to service the needs of the aesthetics industry in the area of professional development and business networking. The Aesthetics Practitioners Journal is published quarterly for the benefit of its members and subscribers and aims to inform and educate its members on better business practices and industry advancements. All editorials and articles that are submitted for publishing remain the property of Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd. Reproduction in part or in whole is not permitted without prior written authorisation by the publishers. Every effort has been made to ensure that all scientific and technical information presented is as accurate as possible at the time of publishing. However, members and readers are highly recommended to also seek external advice from their accountant, registered financial adviser or healthcare professional for their recommendations. APJ 5
EDITOR’S NOTE Katt McCann
I AM sure you will love this issue of APJ — it’s filled with great articles, both educational and features that will feed your mind with great knowledge and your soul with inspiration and encouragement. Being part of this incredible industry is so amazing, not only do we get to transform lives with our skills, compassion and talents, but we share the opportunity to give our clients new hope as well as boost their self-esteem — what a privilege! In this world of social media, personal interaction is fast becoming a luxury, but this is where we can make a different in people’s lives. Through our services we have the opportunity to offer them valuable and tangible personal care that goes beyond techniques and protocols — one kind word or joyful greeting can really make someone’s day — don’t ever underestimate that, make each day count. Choose to be engaging, genuine and sincere with all whom you come in contact with. This will not only enrich their lives, it will also enrich yours. And talking about quality interaction, make sure to check our APAN Gold Conference program (ages 24-27). The first event is being held at the beautiful Gold Coast. There will be an amazing array of quality experts sharing pertinent information both educational and regulatory, along with gaining great business tips to immediately implement. Dedicated to the professional, these events ensure you take away invaluable information. Oh, and the weather at this time of the year on the Gold Coast is glorious, plus the food will be divine.
You will also notice that this year there will be a different vibe as we have plans to make the event an interactive and memorable experience that you will never forget. Another major change we have implement this year based off feedback, is a change from our traditional Sunday conference to hosting our very first conference on Monday. This is because many of you indicated that the Monday option will allow you to better balance work and family and provide you more time to spend with loved ones on the weekend. However if you are free on Sunday night join us for a wonderful buffet dinner. We have negotiated a special conference rate for the dinner of just $55, so join us for a fun evening. As for accommodation, your special APAN conference rate for a deluxe room is just $110. Mantra Legend is only a stone-throw away from the beach so most rooms have wonderful views of the ocean. Additionally, as a delegate you can attend palates, Zumba or yoga sessions as part of your accommodation package for free. There are also lots of activities that you and your family can enjoy, so bring family members or a friend and make it a special event. I am so looking forward to this year’s event and I hope to see you there. Enjoy this issue of APJ and stay connected with APAN as a professional member — there is extra value for joining this year.
fl apanetwork.com | info@apanetwork.com CORRECTION: In the article “What Constitutes a Qualification” published in Summer Volume 35 of APJ Robert McGowan was referred to as the CEO of THink Education instead of THink Aesthetics. We apologise for this error.
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OUR REGULAR APJ CONTRIBUTERS TERRY EVERITT Terry Everitt is regarded as a ‘Master Skincare Professional’ due to his extensive knowledge in the art and science of skincare. A very competent educator and regular lecturer on aesthetic and medical conferences where he presents up-to-date information from an evidence-based scientific perspective. Terry is the Director of Aesthetic Educators Pty Ltd. To contact Terry you can email him at aestheticeducators@gmail.com.
CAROLINE NELSON Caroline Nelson is a beauty industry expert with over 40 years industry experience. She specialises and is passionate in helping clinics and spas develop their brand, improve productivity, and increase bottom-line profit. To learn more about her step-by-step program for salon spa success visit www.SalonSpaBusiness.com or phone 041 0600 440.
GAY WARDLE Gay Wardle is a well-known multi-awarding winning industry expert and a renowned lecturer who conducts advanced skin analysis training for businesses and their staff on all issue pertaining to skin science. If you would like you and your staff to undertake training with Gay please contact Gay on 0418 708 455 or book online at www.gaywardle.com.au. You can also email her on gay@m-da.com.au.
JACINE GREENWOOD Jacine Greenwood is an internationally recognised educator who is known within the industry for her up-to-date knowledge and her ability to deliver training in an easy to understand method. Jacine holds six Diplomas, including a Diploma of Cosmetic Chemistry and a Bachelor of Nursing. Her knowledge is highly respected in the cosmetic industry. With over 22 years experience in the industry and a background of cosmetic formulation, Jacine has an immense knowledge of current trends in research and new developments in the industry. Contact her on 07 3807 1429 or email jacine@roccoco.com.au.
DR ZAC TURNER Dr Zac Turner has a broad medical background specialising in regenerative and aesthetic medicine. Aesthetically, Dr Zac feels that a natural look is best, and truly believes that his ‘less-is-more’ approach. Dr Zac is involved in both the men’s health and preventative health space. He sees prevention and body optimisation as the ultimate way to prevent chronic disease, obesity, and many other conditions. He has owned and is currently involved with clinics in the holistic health arena and believes that through an holistic assessment of someone’s health we can enable them to live longer, healthier, and happier. Contact Dr Zac by Email: zac@drzac.co.
TRISH HAMMOND Trish Hammond is an award-winning blog and social media expert and the director of Plastic Surgery Hub. She is renowned for her skilful writing and interviews in all facets of the social media space. Her company specialises in the Aesthetics, Cosmetic Surgery and Cosmetic Medicine industry sectors for which she provides personalised and comprehensive services to help businesses communicate powerfully, grow their brand and capture new clients and patients. If you would like to speak to Trish about your blogging needs please contact her on 0429 264 811 or Email info@plasticsurgeryhub.com.au.
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Heart-to-Heart A message from the President and CEO
Dear Colleagues and friends, THIS is the first issue of APJ for the year and I want to thank all of you who have reached out to us for help and who remain our loyal members. We are always thrilled to help solve problems for you. In today’s world there are so many channels that you can reach to gain answers, so what can APAN offer you that is different? When you contact APAN with your problems, or concerns you know you have peace of mind that you are reaching out to experts who are solely and completely dedicated to your support and to your success on several levels – business, regulations, industry news, professional advice on staffing or client concerns. You can expect credible and accurate advice that will take the guess work out of helping you reach the right conclusion to your problem. If necessary, APAN will also do research for you to provide you with the most credible option when making industry, or purchasing decisions. On a personal level, 2017 has been a remarkable year for me. I’ve boarded some 18 planes travelling throughout the country attending conference programs and government meetings. Learning about current advances, while also identifying how we can best protect the industry’s future. My dedication in this regard is fierce. Indeed, justice is very much one of my highest values and I am very protective to ensure that you don’t lose some of your modalities to the medical profession, simply because no-one cared enough to fight for you. Witnessing the evolution of our industry has caused me to reflect more deeply about my own life. To keep pace with a fastchanging world, I too must change. Change is both exhilarating and frightening at the same time. Seasons of life also come and go, despite our longing at times to “stop the clock” and keeping things just as they are. It’s normal to draw comfort from the familiar. Our brains are wired to default to routine and resist anything new. But to stay current, we have to be willing to feel uncomfortable, to take risks, to fail at times, as we learn new ways of doing things. The strength to walk this road comes from within. We must learn to live from the inside-out, nurture and explore our inner strength, and drawing from our faith and our purpose to regain perspective. I have also learned to not make any decisions unless I have a sense of inner peace about what I am about to do. Peace gives you that sense of confidence that APJ 8
you are on the right track and it is worth deferring any major decisions until to have achieved it. Reaching that place has allowed us to implement some positive changes on all levels of our operations, both internally within our organisation, as well as implement new programs and new ways of doing things including our conference programs. Here is just a quick look at what you can expect from APAN in 2018.
APAN WORKSHOPS AND CONFERENCES WITH A TWIST This year APAN is launching two new conference programs – one on the Gold Coast and one in Sydney. These programs will have a twist. The twist is the inclusion of fun, interactive elements to make the whole educational experience at these events more enjoyable and definitely more memorable. We are also including a segment specifically for your staff. There will be a double-session workshop at the conferences that will allow us to spend close and personal time with your staff members training them in the new techniques on engaging clients so that they can find your services irresistible. How does that sound? We are also launching a staff Awards program to help motivate your staff’s performance and reward them for it. Please check for further details on the back page of this journal and access your application form. There is no charge for this. Additionally, we are introducing several Professional Development Workshops this year to help you gain new skills and confident on how to improve your results and your profit. We have a new designated website that will feature all these events so please visit https://apanconf.com/ for further details.
LASER FOR NON-MEDICAL PRACTITIONERS IN WA We are becoming more aware on how some members from WA are experiencing difficulty getting work when they move to the east coast, particularly when they have no laser training due to regulatory restrictions in WA that prohibit the use of a laser by a non-medical practitioner. We are also experiencing the opposite — people from the eastern states who are fully qualified and competent in the use of lasers cannot work using lasers when they move to WA. We understand that in the past when there were no qualifications in the use of IPL, or Laser that regulatory
If we don’t change, we don’t grow. If we don’t grow, we are not really living. Growth demands a temporary surrender of security. — GAIL SHEEHY
restrictions were prudent. However, lasers have been in Australia for some 17 years and we now have nationallyaccredited, government-approved qualifications that are Graduate Certificates at a level 7 and some at level 8, according to the Australian Qualifications Framework. These qualifications offer rigorous theoretical, as well as extensive practical hours of training to ensure safety and competency standards for graduates. APAN has therefore communicated to the Radiological Council of Western Australia on behalf of the industry, requesting they review the current legislation in light of the new qualifications and consider a reform that will be more fair and equitable for qualified, non-medical professionals. The industry needs a voice and we are vigilant to ensure that we pursue every opportunity to speak on your behalf to ensure that decisions made on the regulatory front are as fair as possible. We will keep you posted on developments.
GIFT VOUCHERS AND NEW EXPIRY DATE Talking about fairness, we are also concerned with the new laws that were introduced in NSW in March this year stating that the new minimum expiry dates of Gift Vouchers must now become three years, (read about it on page 60). It is our belief that this will disadvantage many salons and clinics in NSW if they are required to honour a gift voucher for a period of 36 months. We understand that a product can sit on the shelf and be purchased at a later date with minimal change in its cost, however, services are a very different issue. When someone purchases a gift voucher for a friend to have a treatment with you that treatment may have been purchased as part of a promotion with a discount, or extras attached. Furthermore, in the delivery of services there are many considerations if the receiver choses to redeem the voucher in three years’ time. For example, wages would have definitely increased, consumables would have increased and rent would have increased. Adding all these up, the cost of delivering that treatment in three years’ time may have increased by up to 3040 per cent, or possibly more. While there is a clause that will allow you to include a surcharge this must be included at the time of purchasing the voucher and not at a later date. This will make purchasing vouchers very unattractive. APAN has therefore contacted the Australian Competition and
Consumer Commission (ACCC) strongly objecting to this law on behalf of its members. Our objective is to negotiate dialogue in view of the consequences to our industry and see if there is a way that an exemption inclusion can be negotiated for the service industry. Again, we will keep you posted.
STAY CONNECTED WITH US With regards to advances in the area of national standards and regulations, we are making notable progress and we trust that we can soon make a formal announcement. This is a new year and we are going to see some significant changes. Whatever your position, whether you are a business owner or a professional employed by a business, your professional development and standing in the industry is important and vital to both your own future career, as well as in supporting the collective reputation of this exciting industry. By joining APAN as a professional member you will ensure that you will be first to be informed of important industry developments. You will also have the opportunity to increase your consumer respect and recognition through our CTARP or ARAP registration program, as well as be supported on so many levels by an organisation that is 100% committed to your progress. You are important to us and we are dedicated and committed to your progress. Please ensure you are part of our professional community and help to strengthen our voice. If you have any problems please feel free to contact us. We do hope we get to see you soon at one of our events. With my best wishes for a successful year.
APAN - Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network PTY LTD 07 5593 0360 info@apanetwork.com www.apanetwork.com
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COVERSTORY
PHYT’s – THE GLOBAL MARKET LEADER Organic, High-Performance Skincare that ticks all the boxes for Purity and Efficacy Phyt’s the multi-award winning French organic skincare is stepping up its presence in Australia and New Zealand. We caught up with Phyt’s Owner and Managing Director, Krystal Bak to learn more about the brand and its plans in Australia. APJ Q1: PHYT’S IS A RENOWNED FRENCH ORGANIC SKINCARE BRAND— CAN YOU SHARE WITH US A LITTLE ABOUT THEIR HISTORY? In 2018 PHYT’S will be celebrating its 45th anniversary. Today, the brand is considered one of the greatest achievements in natural and organic cosmetics in France. The choice to go green was not influenced by the global movement we are witnessing today, but goes back to the very origin of the brand. In 1972 Jean-Paul Llopart, a naturopath and biologist, and Rosanne Verlé, a beauty therapist, created Phyt’s — then called Phytal, born from a dream and vision of developing a skincare range made entirely with natural ingredients and without the use of any preservatives. It was an extremely innovative approach at the time. From the onset, the brand wanted to focus and support forward-thinking beauty institutes and thus they laid the foundations of what Jean-Paul Llopart coined “NaturoEsthetique®” a concept that is now well-implanted in Europe and recently being introduced to the Australian professional aesthetics market. Phyt’s creators were market innovators and early adopters of emerging technologies that moved their vision from dream to reality, both in product development but also in packaging. The need to innovate in packaging came from the necessity to protect the formulations from bacterial contaminants and the external environment. Phyt’s introduced single-use
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packaging in the form of disposable glass ampoules. In 1974, a patent was even filed for the conditioning in ampoules of pasty or semi-thick skin care products (masks). In the 1990s, Phyt’s Laboratories turned to multilayered Polyfoil for all its tubes, a perfectly waterproof material that protects all creams from external contaminants. To this day, Phyt’s cosmetics are perfectly preserved before opening and maintain their freshness and purity up to three months after opening (during which time the product must be used). This unique packaging is an integral part of what makes the brand so appealing and cost-effective for spa and clinics that have very high turnover (for stock control and because singleused dose limits product being wasted or contaminated). PHYT’S is a dream for mobile therapists, a growing profession in our fast-changing market place where so many individuals and professionals demand personalised services in the comfort of their home, workplace or accommodations when travelling. This choice for natural materials and sustainable practices, at all level of manufacturing and encompassing the finished product, is at the heart of the brand identity. In 2002, the need to maintain integrity and transparency in manufacturing standards led Jean-Paul Llopart and others natural cosmetics precursors to partner for the creation of the Cosmebio Charter, a true certification in the field of natural and
In today’s highly polluted and stressed world an innovative skincare brand brings the promise of unprecedented purity, quality and efficacy of the highest level. Phyt’s Australia has recently secured a new acquisition. The new owners are set to bring a high-level of business support and consumer awareness to one of France’s leading skincare brands that is set to revolutionise the professional skincare industry. organic cosmetics. The Cosmebio Charter is what it says it is: a chart that defines first, what makes a cosmetic (as opposed to a food), second, what makes that cosmetic a natural cosmetic (compared to traditional cosmetics) and third, how much of the total content needs to come from ingredients grown and harvested under organic farming principles to allow a natural product to be called an organic skincare product. Today, the brand is owned by the Jerodia Group whom acquired the brand in 2004 together with Biguine Bio, Gamarde, and Bionatural all brands produced by Laboratoires PHYT’S. The Jérodia Group also owns the beauty academy and beauty institute Françoise Morice that trains every year 500 beauty therapists to national vocational qualifications (CAP, BP and BTS) in Paris. Some subsidiaries of the academy were also opened in Aix-en-Provence, in Southern France, and Osaka, Japan. Other openings are under discussion in India and Malaysia and one is opening soon right here in Australia, in the heart of Sydney. Today the PHYT’S brand is present in more than 3,000 outlets in France. It is the leading brand in this market segment in terms of distribution. In Asia, they have managed to increase our turnover twofold every three years. We have sales offices in Seoul and Kuala Lumpur. Today, Korea, Japan and China, including Hong Kong, are drivers for the brand. Malaysia and
Singapore, recently opened, are also promising.
APJ Q2: RECENTLY, PHYT’S AUSTRALIA CHANGED OWNERSHIP. WHAT CAN BUSINESSES EXPECT FROM THIS CHANGE? In a nutshell, the recent change in ownership is allowing professional aestheticians and their businesses in Australia and New Zealand to capitalise on the booming demand for professional treatments that are results- driven, time-tested, safe and that blend health, wellness and beauty. It offers aesthetic professionals and their businesses a solution that meets a growing demand from educated customers of all ages (from boomers to Gen-X). These clients are actively seeking treatments and products that allow them to look natural, healthy, happy, and that are safe for them because free of synthetic additives, harmful chemicals (or invasive procedures) and safe for the planet. We live at a time when unfortunately a growing number of individuals are meeting with health challenges and these people are becoming more and more aware of the correlation between a toxic environment and their potential for recovery and healing. Parallel to that, a growing number of individuals are also looking at the impact cosmetics have on the environment at large. Witness to this is the recent government ban (scaled over a few years) on the use of plastic beads into
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cosmetics and toiletry products in light of the dramatic impact these beads have on waterways and oceans worldwide (Phyt’s by the way has never used plastic beads in its products). These educated customers encompass all age groups and all demographics. They are often referred to as LOHAS (Lifestyle Of health And Sustainability) and currently represent a rapidly growing part of the population. Statistics reveal that roughly 50% of consumers looking for cosmetic treatments belong to that group. The key here is that, just because these cliens think ‘sustainable’ and ‘safe’, does not mean they do not want and demand visible results, and this is where Phy’s come in. We allow therapists, salon, spa and clinic owners to capture this booming market segment with confidence. A Phyt’s flagship day spa will soon advocate the first Phyt’s Concept store in the heart of Paddington. The 3-storey building will be home to a comprehensive display and retail area, beauty and spa rooms catering to men and women as well as the PhytoDermal Institute of Beauty. The Institute is a registered training organization (RTO), and is internationally accredited with ITEC, that provides for students who are passionate about health, vitality, the environment and their client’s wellbeing with government-approved qualifications. The curriculum and teaching techniques are accredited by ASQA and Training Australia. The Institute is proud of its bold commitment to the health conscious and sustainable wellness movement. Our students apply their knowledge of natural botanicals ingredients and actives by working with the finest natural and organic skincare, essential oils, exotic butters, and various botanical oils from all over the world. All products used in classes are free of any chemical irritants, synthetic pesticides, herbicides, GMO (genetically modified organisms), petroleum waxes, artificial chemicals and fillers, which can all be harmful to the skin and to the health of the individual. In times we will provide our Salon, Clinics and Spa partners with a staff that is both qualified and specialised in that particular market segment. We are also offering short business-oriented courses for existing therapists and businesses who want to understand this market segment and the profile of these new clients.
APJ Q3: WE UNDERSTAND THAT PHYT’S WAS AWARDED AND RECOGNISED FOR A NEW PRODUCT INNOVATION, CAN YOU TELL US A LITTLE ABOUT THIS? PHYT’S received the H.Pierantoni Innovation Prize during the 47eme Congres International d’Esthetiques & Spa in Versailles last year. This award is given each year in France during a competition run by Nouvelle Esthetiques, ‘the’ French professional magazine and leading reference for professional Aestheticians since 1958. The competition’s jury consists of an extensive array of skilled professionals including educators and researchers who debate over the most innovative skincare to emerge in the beauty industry each year. The prize was awarded to Phyt’s Labs for “Crème Hydratante 24H Aquaphyts”. The efficacy of Crème Hydratante 24H Aquaphyts comes from the use of lamellar emulsifiers as a delivery system. These lamellar emulsifiers trap water and HA and thanks to their structure that mimic the lipid bilayers of the stratum corneum, can safely and effectively carry the active deeper into the skin. Hyaluronic acids used in our formulas are from high and also low molecular weight, and 100% from natural origin (extracted from wheat and corn, both non-GMO of course). Into APJ 12
the AquaPhyt’s 24H line, both HA are present and allow the products to hydrate the skin on two fronts: •
Hyaluronic acids (HA) from low molecular weight penetrate in the skin easily and strengthen the natural “stock of water” in the skin.
•
Hyaluronic acids from high molecular weight create a protective layer on the skin, which helps to regulate water loss. It holds the water on the surface of the skin and acts as a “reservoir” protecting the skin from external aggression that could potentially damage the hydrolipidic film.
These two HAs have been submitted to tolerance and toxicity tests. The tests showed that they are not irritating, nonallergenic, not sensitiser and they present no mutagenic effect, no phototoxic and they do not contain nanoparticles nor CMR substances (Carcinogenic, Mutagenic, toxic for Reproduction). In addition, they do not contain any preservatives and conform to the Organic and Ecologic Cosmetics specification requirements.
APJ Q4: THERE ARE CONSTANTLY NEW SKINCARE FORMULATIONS ENTERING THE MARKET, HOW DOES PHYT’S STAYS AHEAD OF COMPETITORS? In the field of natural and organic cosmetic, PHYT’S have always been a product innovator and early adopter. Today that means Phyt’s Laboratories are integrating green chemistry technologies to open the door to the use of novel ingredients, while keeping their integrity and safety in terms of 100% neutrality and organic certification. Our competitive advantage is that our products are formulated with ingredients of natural origin that match the results of active cosmetics in ways that are clinically-proven. Phyt’s constantly introduces products that are at the leading edge of this market segment. The most recent example is Panacea. An exceptional global
anti-ageing innovation with proven effectiveness, Panacea is defined as a premium organic cream – a rarity in the organic market. Today, it is rather the luxury brands that share this sector. Panacea demonstrates that it is possible to fight the signs of ageing while preserving skin’s health. Rather than being labeled anti-ageing, we are in the concept of “Better Ageing” or “Pro-Ageing”. Among a plethora of anti-ageing active ingredients, one stands out: edelweiss extract - a rare plant known for its unparalleled resistance to extreme living conditions. This ingredient ensures Panacea’s direct action on all the signs of ageing. Its wealth of antioxidants fights against already established signs as well as against oxidative stress - responsible, to a large extent, for skin ageing. Among its other key assets, we can also mention rye with its tightening effect, brown seaweed, which firms the skin and Acmella Oleracea which has a smoothing effect on the epidermis and is currently being patented as a natural alternative to Botox. Another competitive advantage for Phyt’s is that therapists can offer up to 15 different treatments for the face and body, to meet all skin types and concerns in a safe, efficacious and sustainable way. Treatments include: •
global anti-age (50+)
•
anti-aging (35+)
•
hydration
•
balancing (bringing unbalanced skin, no matter its type, back to equilibrium)
•
oxygenating, detoxing and revitalising
•
renovating (with a chemical peel that is 100% natural and certified organic, a world first in the Chemical Peel category)
•
slimming
The constant update of its retail and cabin products has allowed Phyt’s to maintain its cult products (Crème Absolue and Crème C17 have been market leaders in their respective category for 45 years), but also to attract and retain a constantly satisfied and growing client base. The brand is more than ever at the forefront of what is best in natural premium cosmetics, affordable and certified organic skincare. Furthermore, in 2009, and building on its capabilities in Research & Development, Phyt’s launched an organic make-up range, the first bio-cosmetic brand certified Cosmebio on all its references. It was an immediate success in France as more and more professions and their clients are looking for this type of products. In short, Phyt’s allows salons and clinics to re-invent the store and treatments experience for their existing clients, while attracting a growing numbers of individuals for whom health and results cannot be compromised. APJ Q5: PHYT’S IS A STRICTLY ORGANIC PRODUCT RANGE THAT MEETS THE MOST STRINGENT STANDARDS. HOW EFFICACIOUS IS IT AT DELIVERING RESULTS TO A COSMECEUTICAL LEVEL? PHYT’S products are defined as bio-active cosmetics. All our formulations are made from ingredients of 100% natural origin, free of synthetic preservatives, GMO and harmful chemical ingredients. It is certified organic according to the Cosmebio charter. This charter gave birth to very demanding specifications filed with the Ministry of Industry and published in the Official Gazette in 2003. The charter was developed specifically for the cosmetic industry and goes far beyond the
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presence of ingredients coming from organic farming. A bio-active cosmetic means that, aside of the absence of pollutants such as pesticides, chemical fertilisers, GMO, CMR, which in the long-term are harmful to our body and the environment, the cosmetic product is of great biological wealth with a significant amount of active ingredients. The ingredients in many cosmeceutical products, while they are active and stronger than your standard cosmetic-grade skin care products, however, their long-term safety with regards to health is at times a genuine concern for health-conscious individuals. These include individuals whose health is already compromised, individuals on fertility programs who must trust a skincare routine that does not carry the risk of compromising their effort and commitment to conceive, or simply individual concerned about the impact of the industry on the environment at large. Typically, the LOHAS oriented customers. For 45 years, Phyt’s Laboratories have been working on formulas that are made with ingredients of 100% natural origin, without synthetic preservatives, not even the use of 5% synthetic preservatives authorised by the Cosmebio Charter. This is not, and never has been an easy task! Our chemists succeeded in this amazing achievement by first relying on the properties of organic certified essential oils. These are rich in properties that enhance the effectiveness of cosmetics. They are also possess olfactory elements that guarantees an amazing sensory experience to the client. Many of these oils also have powerful bactericidal virtues. The use of essential oils in cosmetics requires precise know-how. Optimising the effectiveness of conservation AND tolerance of essential oils on the skin is an art that we master at Phyt’s. Some skin however do not like essential oils, so not all creams we develop contain essential oils. This has lead Phyt’s Labs to research other natural active ingredients and develop, in particular, a comprehensive repertoire of natural preservatives which is one of PHYT’S most valuable and sought after asset. Today’s green chemistry allows for the safe, ecologically sound and sustainable extract of actives molecules within the plant realm. Essential oils or plant oils and compounds,
extracted from nature’s most generous trees, herbs, plants, seeds and fruit and backed by cutting-edge scientific research and development that are just as effective as their synthetic counterpart. High grades essential oils are active and cellpermeable. They are easily absorbed and utilised by the skin’s cells. The plant- based vitamins we use in our skincare range are of the highest grade and also utilised by the skin the way it is meant to be: naturally and safely, the way nature intended it to be. All of our farming partners must test and validate their ingredients to ensure sustainability, ethics toward the environment and employees, Eco-friendly practices and raw material excellence. PHYTS is a bio-active cosmetic range, a skincare range that is made with ingredients of 100% of natural origin. Our manufacturing facilities are pharmaceutical-grade and also subjected to regular inspections to comply with Cosmebio good manufacturing practice and uncompromising standards in all aspects of manufacturing and product development. The fact that the range is also certified organic is the cherry on top of the cake.
APJ Q6: WHAT IS PHYT’S PHILOSOPHY AND HOW DOES IT POSITION ITSELF? PHYT’S concept of skincare is a holistic approach synonymous with health, safety and pleasure. The brand advocates biodiversity by only using sustainable botanical ingredients where the ecosystem will never be compromised. Phyt’s is a professional brand intended skincare professionals and spa institutions. This means that even though our products are natural and pleasant to use, they are primarily and most importantly efficient and results-driven. They are tested clinically (by a government accredited, independent laboratory in Switzerland) and under dermatological control to support our claims. We do not hesitate to confirm that our treatments and retail ranges are as efficient as competing formulators in today’s market, because we can prove it and this is what we deliver through the “Bio-Active Cosmetics” and NaturoEsthetique®” concepts. Phyt’s does not use any synthetic preservatives. This is possible because of the remarkable know-how developed by Phyt’s Labs in terms of stability and protection of formulas, and the systematic use of packaging featuring a barrier effect between the formulations and the environment (natural and artificial light, airborne bacteria, etc.). Another characteristic worth mentioning is that PHYT’S is a totally independent producer. With 259 employees in France and over 20 million euros in turnover annually, the group develops all products in its research facilities and formulates the entire range (including make-up) in its own laboratories in the South of France. Everything they sell is made in-house. There is not one single product, which doesn’t come from the laboratories Research & Development center in the South of France. As an exceptional, high quality skincare concept, PHYT’S offer the opportunity to treat the skin holistically, meaning through proper nutrition as well as appropriate skincare. We did not come to this mindset because of the recent trend or discoveries correlating nutrition and skin health, but as a working principles that goes back to the origin of the company and it’s grounding in naturopathy and phyto-therapy. Jean-Paul Llopart was a naturopath and a biologist. The Laboratories produce also food supplements and we are exploring avenues to introduce them to our Australian business partners in a foreseeable future. Because of this philosophy and approach we are proud to count as business partners high profile wellness retreats, naturopathic clinics, holistic day-spas but also traditional
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skin clinics wanting to add a natural options to their current treatments. There is significant opportunity for beauty salons and day spas to capitalise on the quest for wellness by incorporating holistic treatments and services. This is something they can easily do with PHYT’S.
APJ Q7: DOES THE COMPANY OFFER TRAINING AND IF SO, WHAT OPTIONS ARE AVAILABLE TO BUSINESSES THAT CHOOSE TO STOCK THIS BRAND? Phyt’s here in Australia and in New Zealand is currently introducing a new training format that will be a balance between on-line units and on-site, or in-house delivery. Thanks to various techniques, the Phyt’s Naturo-Beauty Therapist, as a trained and qualified professional, will provide personalised treatment and advice combining bio-cosmetics with nutricosmetics with a view to stimulating skin health and beauty from the inside out. Because each client is unique, Naturo-Therapists or NaturoAestheticians are already trained to provide treatments that are safe and professionally-tailored to individual skin type and condition, with no guessing involved. Phyt’s in-salon treatments are prepared in uni-dose glass ampoules that come in a blister pack. A single kit is equivalent to a full treatment and includes a cleanser, lotion, exfoliator, serum, mask and cream. The procedure guarantees excellent product preservation, total hygiene and personalised selection, while facilitating treatment preparation and stock-control. The Naturo-Beauty Therapist selects the relevant blister pack containing the targeted treatment, and whisks her client off for a one, to one and a half hour session of pure bliss. When he took over the reins of Laboratories PHYT’S in April 2004, Thierry Logres intended to pursue but also develop the spirit of a company, which was founded in 1972, based on the principles of 100% natural, original formulations leading it into the 21st century and the world of Bio-Cosmetics Active. That strategy has not changed and has paid off. Today Phyt’s is present in more than 3,000 outlets in France. We are the leading brand in this market segment in terms of distribution and we hold second or third place in terms of sales. So, we still have room for progress to expend our business reach. We are continuing our progression while developing two key areas: Asia and North America with rapid growth in both these regions. Australia has not been forgotten, and today with Krystal Bak and her team at the helm of Phyt’s Australia and New Zealand, we are confident that we will partner with like-minded business owners in the Spa, Wellness and Beauty Salons in Australia and New Zealand. APJ For more information please contact:
PHYT’S AUSTRALIA 1300 656 627 DIRECTORS: Krystal Bak krystal@phyts.com.au
NATIONAL TRAINER: Isabelle Sennery isabelle@phyts.com.au
Joshua Bak Joshua@phyts.com.au APJ 15
SCIENTIFICRESEARCH
By Tina Viney
APJ 16
CHANGING our hair colour can be one of the easiest, fun ways to brighten our mood and bring new life to one’s face. In fact, a hair colour change can be one of the quickest ways to create a fashion statements and it is so easy to do. You can grab a home hair colour kit from your local chemist, or hair dressing supplier and do it yourself, or If you are looking for something more sophisticated, you may visit your hairdresser who can transform your look with a few foils or a complete all-over colour transformation to suit your mood and taste. So when a client walks in your doors, how do you know what is their real hair colour and why is this important to you when performing a skin or body treatments? In this article I will present some interesting information on natural redheads, and how being able to identify them can allow you to make important adjustments when treating their skin or body. Between 1 to 2 per cent, or just 76 to 152 million people, of the global population has red hair. This unique hair colour is caused by a mutation of the melanocortin 1 receptor (MC1R), a gene located on chromosome 16. MC1R is a protein involved in regulating your hair and skin colour, as well as eye hue. As a recessive trait, the mutated gene must be inherited from both parents to produce a child with red hair. Variations in the MC1R gene are responsible for a range of reddish hair colour — from “strawberry blonde” to brown hair with red hues — and fair skin that may, or may not be heavily freckled. Due to the type of melanin their bodies produce, redheads are at a greater risk of developing skin cancer even if they avoid sun exposure. On the positive side, their pale skin and sensitivity to ultraviolet (UV) light helps redheads produce vitamin D more efficiently than their blonde or brunette counterparts.
THE HISTORY OF RED HAIR While data on the exact distribution of redheads worldwide is unavailable, red hair seems to occur more frequently among northern and western Europeans and their descendants. Jacky Colliss Harvey, author of “A History of the Redhead,” told The Washington Post the MC1R gene originated in Central Asia and “thrives mainly in remote regions and closed communities such as Ireland, Scotland and coastal regions of Scandinavia.” Redhead characteristics, says Harvey, are due to “a mutation in the MC1R gene that fails to produce sun-protective, skindarkening eumelanin and instead causes pale skin, freckles and red hair.” Indeed, your eye, hair and skin colour are determined by a protein called melanin, of which there are two kinds: •
Eumelanin: If you produce mostly eumelanin, you tend to have brown or black hair and dark skin that tans easily. Eumelanin also protects your skin from damage caused by the sun’s UV rays.
•
Pheomelanin: If you produce mostly pheomelanin, you will likely have blonde or red hair, freckles and light-coloured skin that tans poorly. Due to the lack of protection from UV radiation afforded by pheomelanin, you will have an increased risk of skin damage caused by sun exposure or overexposure.
Professor Jonathan Rees, grant chair of Dermatology at Scotland’s University of Edinburgh, and one of a team of scientists to identify the MC1R gene variants in humans, suggests Northern European countries are home to a greater proportion of redheads than anywhere else in the world. He believes the biggest concentrations of redheads are found in
Ireland and Scotland. “If you’re in northern Europe, you get used to seeing people with different hair colour,” says Rees. On the other hand, if you just think about Asia, it’s very, very rare to see somebody with red hair, and in most of Africa, it is exceedingly rare to see somebody with red hair. It is an unusual trait globally.”
DO REDHEADS NEED LESS VITAMIN D? Due to their naturally fair skin, redheads are able to produce vitamin D more effectively than most people. Even though vitamin D can be obtained naturally through sensible exposure to the sun, modern lifestyles and weather conditions in many parts of the world make it nearly impossible for some to obtain sufficient amounts. Given their genetic predisposition, redheads are able to produce it on their own. Harvey also stated that as our distant ancestors migrated to settle in the cool, grey climate of Northern Europe, redheads had a signal advantage over their darker peers — their pale skin produced vitamin D more efficiently from the sunlight, strengthening their bones and making women more likely to survive pregnancy and childbirth. Experts also suggest that having red hair and pale skin offers an important health advantage for those who possess it. Redheads, it would seem, boast a genetic [secret] weapon which enables them to fight off certain debilitating and potentially deadly illnesses more efficiently than blondes or brunettes. A pale complexion permits more sunlight into the skin where it encourages the production of vitamin D. This helps to prevent rickets, a disease which progressively weakens bone structures, and the lung disease tuberculosis, which can be fatal.
WHAT IS VITAMIN D? Despite its name, vitamin D is not a regular vitamin. It’s actually a steroid hormone obtained primarily from sun exposure. Its ability to influence genetic expression produces many of its wide-ranging health benefits. Vitamin D is so important and research suggests simply increasing vitamin D3 levels in the general population could lower rates of chronic diseases such as depression, diabetes, heart disease, hypertension, obesity and more. Beyond contributing to strong bones, sufficient amounts of vitamin D can help reduce your risk of several types of cancer. Furthermore, vitamin D strengthens your immune system, which protects you from colds and the flu by helping your body attack and destroy bacteria and viruses.
THE IMPORTANCE OF VITAMIN D FOR OPTIMAL HEALTH Regardless as to whether you possess the MC1R gene, your day needs a certain amount of vitamin D to promote and safeguard your health. The optimal vitamin D levels for general health is in the 40 to 80 nanograms per milliliter (ng/ml) range; 60 to 80 ng/ ml appears to be ideal. While the ideal way to raise your vitamin D is by regularly and sensibly exposing large amounts of your skin to sunshine, there are other consideration. In Australian for example, regular sun exposure can contribute to premature skin ageing and skin cancer. For this reason experts indicate that a high percentage of Australian are vitamin D deficient. Experts recommend taking an oral vitamin D3 supplement along with vitamin K2 and magnesium, to ensure maximum effectiveness. Experts also recommend that we can determine our maintenance dose by measuring our blood level. Ideally, check your vitamin D level twice a year, in winter and summer, when APJ 17
your levels will be at their lowest and highest. As a general guideline, vitamin D experts recommend 4,000 IUs per day for adults, but that applies only if you are already in the therapeutic range. If your levels are low, you may need 8,000 IUs or more per day to start. Particularly during the winter months, you’ll want to keep an eye on your levels. Lack of UV exposure can bring out the “winter blues,” leading to feelings of depression. If you notice your mood and energy levels are down, you may not be getting enough vitamin D. Even if you live in an area receiving year-round sun, you are at risk of missing out on vitamin D from natural sun exposure if you spend most of your time indoors, use topical sunscreens or wear long clothing for religious reasons.
redheads. The study authors stated. In summary redheads are:
REDHEADS AT GREATER RISK OF MELANOMA EVEN WITHOUT SUN EXPOSURE
REDHEADS WITH MC1R GENES MAY NEED MORE ANAESTHETIC AND LESS PAINKILLERS
If you possess the MC1R gene, you are at a greater risk of developing melanoma, which as we know, is the deadliest form of skin cancer. Many have mistakenly assumed the increased risk is related to the fact that fair-skinned people possess the type of melanin that gives them less “natural sunscreen” against the sun’s UV rays. It follows then that the sun would be more damaging to redheads, thereby putting them at increased risk of skin cancer. The problem with this widely held belief is that melanoma often appears on skin that is not exposed to sun, which suggests there must be another explanation. In fact, research suggests that redheads have an increased melanoma risk whether they spend time in the sun or not. A 2012 study published in the journal Nature, among mice bred to be susceptible to cancer, 50 per cent of those with golden-yellow hair (the “redheads”) developed melanoma within a year based on zero exposure to UV light.
Dr. Daniel Sessler, who was previously associated with the University of Louisville and now chairs the Department of outcomes research at Cleveland Clinic, suggested the study confirmed that the anecdotal evidence he’d gathered previously indicating redheads were more sensitive to certain types of pain. He stated that after a previous study, they received more than 100 communications from redheads who claimed that anesthesia often failed, or that unusually high doses of local anesthetics were required to achieve adequate analgesia. It suggested that the redhead gene may have some role in the pain pathway. He also suggested that the fact that redheads are more susceptible to sunburn and skin cancer must be linked to the difference in pain sensitivity.
This was a far higher incidence rate than occurred among albino or black mice. Even though the researchers initially thought their lights may have been emitting UV radiation, they realised UV light exposure was not the culprit. Instead, it was the pheomelanin pigment itself, which may contribute to damage from oxidative stress in the skin cells that triggers the cancer. With respect to subsequent research, published in JAMA Dermatology in 2016, Dr. David Fisher, Director of the melanoma program at Massachusetts General Hospital, stated, “It’s been known for several decades that UV chemically excites MC1Rvariant pheomelanin and triggers release of reactive oxygen species, while the brown-black eumelanin has some capacity to absorb UV and is also very good at quenching antioxidant damage in cells.”
SENSITIVITY TO TEMPERATURE AND PAIN Redheads are also likely to be more sensitive to temperature changes and pain than those with darker hair and skin. This includes both heat and cold. In terms of cold research conducted at the University of Louisville, in Kentucky, compared the pain tolerance of 30 red-headed volunteers to that of 30 brunettes. The redheads began to feel pain at around seven degrees Celsius whereas those with darker hair did not begin to shiver until the temperature dropped near freezing. What this means is that procedures such as laser, dermal needling, cosmetic tattooing that can cause pain, or use heat or cold in their delivery will require special considerations if your client is a redhead. The researchers believe the MC1R gene may cause a redhead’s temperature-detecting response to become overactivated, resulting in them being more sensitive to cold or heat. Interestingly the study also involved the use of lidocaine, an anesthetic that helps decrease pain by temporarily numbing the area. Its use was shown to be significantly less effective in APJ 18
•
More sensitive to thermal pain than women with dark hair, but do not show differences in baseline electrical pain thresholds.
•
More resistant to the analgesic effects of subcutaneous lidocaine. These results extend the previous observation that redheads are more resistant to volatile anesthetics.
These tests also confirmed that mutations of the melanocortin 1 receptor, or as a consequence thereof, seem to modulate pain sensitivity. It remains unclear whether this modulation occurs at a central or peripheral level, or both.
Sessler also heard from redheads with respect to dental pain and their anxiety and fear about going to the dentist. As a result, he suggests that if you have red hair and are considering a dental or surgical procedure requiring an anesthetic, you should talk to your doctor about the likelihood that you may be somewhat resistant to anesthetics. “Because they’re resistant, many redheads have had bad experiences,” Sessler said. “If they go to the dentist or have a cut sutured, they’ll need more local anesthetic than other people.” A study published in the Journal of the American Dental Association involving 144 people, 85 of whom possessed variants of the MC1R gene, found participants with MC1R to be more anxious and fearful, as well as more than twice as likely to avoid dental care. The study authors said: Other research suggests bearers of the MC1R gene are more sensitive to painkillers. Apparently, the same MC1R mutation that is responsible for red hair and fair skin also releases a hormone in the brain that has the ability to mimic endorphins. While endorphins have multiple functions, one of their primary roles relates to providing pain relief. If you are treating a redhead, this mimicking ultimately affects how their body receives pain signals from their brain, causing them to have a heightened sensitivity to painkillers. As a result, they may be able to take smaller doses, while achieving the same level of pain tolerance as others. In light of this research it would be prudent to include as part of your Client Assessment Questionnaire, a question on the client/patient’s natural hair colour. This information can be very useful when determining your treatment perimeters and the appropriate way to address their sensitivities to heat and pain. In this day and age when fashion allow us to easily change our hair colour, or if your client has gone white, identifying their original hair colour may not be as easy to detect by just observing them, you will need to probe and question further.
For a list of references, please contact the editor.
APJ
APJ 19
DERMATOLOGY
THE ROLE OF DERMATOLOGY BEHIND SUCCESSFUL FACIAL TREATMENTS Dr Michael Freeman - Dermatologist AS PART of an effective skin protocol, you will be required to perform an accurate skin evaluation, identify abnormalities, skin disorders and lesions that will need to be addressed as your primary consideration, before you can pursue to improve the overall health and appearance of the skin. These dermatological manifestations may be easy to address, or may require a referral to a dermatologist.
biological ageing, photo-ageing is much more preventable over a lifetime if you start young. Infrared radiation is now thought to speed the loss of elastin, so attention to preventing this needs to be considered with all skin protocol recommendations. Physical sunblocks including makeup, can help protect the skin from UV radiation and achieving this should be a priority.
Dr Michael Freeman is a highly respected dermatologist and Associate Professor of Dermatology at Bond University in Queensland and also a member of the Skin Cancer Foundation. In this article he lays a foundation to key considerations when treating the skin and dermatological considerations.
Retinoids: When it comes to skin treatment ingredients common recommendations that have strong scientific validation are retinoids. These work in the skin by affecting gene expression and causing enhanced collagen production, skin smoothing, and also work on normalising pigmentation. However, retinoids will also thin the stratum corneum and should be used with caution, particularly with anyone who has a significant ongoing exposure to the sun.
REVIEWING THE EPIDERMAL BARRIER FUNCTION Let’s start with a review of the epidermal barrier function which takes place in the stratum corneum — the very top layer of the skin. As you are aware, the outer layer of the skin is structured like a brick wall with the cells being the bricks and the intercellular lamellar lipids being the mortar. This layer is flexible and semi-permeable and can regenerate if damaged. The protein matrix within the cells can bind water (the natural moisturising factor - NMF), but does not allow water to pass directly through them, therefore, the water-loss through the skin is controlled. However, over-cleansing can reduce the NMF, together with the ageing process as well as UV light. When the humidity drops, the skin can dry and this slows the breakdown of the attachments between the cells (corneodesmosomes). This can manifest as scaling of the skin. The addition of a moisturiser, especially with an ingredient such as glycerine, can correct this process. It is interesting to note that moisturisers actually put very little moisture into the skin. They simply slow the rate of moisture loss to normal. When attempting to restore the moisture levels of the skin there are key ingredients in a moisturiser that can benefit the skin. First, the most effective and most common occlusive ingredients to seal water loss are vegetable fats. Then a humectant binds water from the lower layers of the skin such as hyaluronic acid and glycerine. Emollients allow the preparation to feel good by filling in the cracks between the cells — jojoba and cetyl alcohol are common examples.
EFFECTIVE SKIN TREATMENT SOLUTIONS When it comes to the skin’s photo-ageing, as opposed to APJ 20
Peels: Peeling agents can be very helpful in increasing cell turnover and reducing surface oils in cases where this is a problem. Peels can be an effective strategy to improve the reflective quality of the dermis as well as help control acne. Try to use home peels at night so the stratum corneum has a chance to recover and better protect the skin from the sun. Antioxidants: Studies confirm that antioxidants can reduce the damage from UV radiation and pollution. Many agents are found naturally in most plants, vitamin C is just one of these. There is often an issue with how much is actually bioavailable to the skin, thus formulation is very important, this is why I have Atom Labs to design my product range to ensure the best possible bioavailability. Peptides: Peptide serums are now able to increase collagen and elastin production. I believe new advances will only continue to improve formulations. Look for Matrixyl and Renovage as examples. DNA Repair: The latest in the cosmeceutical tool box are ingredients with proven efficacy for DNA repair. There are a number of these that I like. Plankton Extract is one, as it requires light to be activated, so make sure that a formula with this ingredient is used as a morning preparation. On the other hand, Arabidopsis Thaliana Extract and Micrococcus Lysate work well both night and day. Niacinamide a derivative of vitamin B3: Niacinamide is also known to augment DNA repair. More evidence is accumulating that this is becoming an essential ingredient in many
preparations for Australian conditions, unless it is already being taken orally.
NUTRACEUTICALS Vitamin D3 can help with vitiligo, atopic dermatitis and chronic urticaria, especially in darker skin types. The normal daily dose is 1000 to 1500 IU/day when taken orally. Probiotics: Probiotics are live micro-organisms, which, when administered in adequate amounts, confer a health benefit. Prebiotics: On the other hand, prebiotics are non-digestible carbohydrates that act as food for probiotics, supporting their functions, so the probiotics and prebiotics have a synergistic effect. Prebiotics are produced through the ingestion of insoluble fibre. In dermatology, probiotics have shown results with acne, rosacea, folliculitis, atopic dermatitis and a weak effect on psoriasis patients. There are other potential benefits of using pro and prebiotics that are unrelated to skin such as in Alzheimer’s conditions as well as their role in neuro-protection for cardiovascular health and cardio-protection, diabetes and numerous other conditions. When choosing probiotics, I recommend Lactobacillus and Bifidobacterium, as these have the most supporting evidence. Certain foods have these bacteria for example yogurt, kefir, kombucha, and kimchi. Tumeric: Turmeric is another well researched nutraceutical that dates back thousands of years. Studies are suggesting that turmeric, when taken internally, can help in acne, alopecia, atopic dermatitis, psoriasis and vitiligo at a dose of 500 mg twice daily (ensure that the one you choose has pepper in it to improve the bioavailability).
FACIAL CONDITIONS THAT NECESSITATE PRECAUTIONS, OR A CHANGE FROM STANDARD TREATMENTS Here are a few simple solutions for conditions that can be easily treated with over-the-counter products — an example is seborrhoeic dermatitis. This can be identified by the light scaling symmetrical patches around the nose and to the inside of the eyebrows. The common dandruff is actually seborrhoeic dermatitis. A simple over-the-counter product is Canesten cream, which can be helpful if combined with a good moisturiser. For the scalp, Nizoral shampoo can be quite helpful. A word of caution, both atopic dermatitis together with any irritant dermatitis should not be treated with any peels. Any peeling therapy for such conditions would be dangerous. This is because the peels will penetrate deeper and potentially cause permanent damage. Ideally, these conditions need to be sorted out before proceeding with any treatments.
redness, itching and scaling. There is often a delay by a dayor-two from applying the product and the appearance of the reaction. In extreme cases, it can take longer. When one of these allergens is discovered and stopped, it usually takes at least a fortnight to settle. However, you can speed up the healing with a steroid cream, for example, 1% hydrocortisone available over the counter. The mistake to avoid is using the cortisone without first discovering the allergy. Allergy to products can occur only on the face or eyelids. because the skin is more sensitive in these areas. Preservatives and fragrances are the most common ingredients to cause allergy, however there are many other sources to be considered. A few include acrylic nails, PPD based hair dyes and some sunscreen ingredients. Dermatologists have patch tests available to discover an individual compound that causes the allergy, so that an alternative product recommended. Without this testing it is possible to swap to a different brand with the same outcome. Some products will aggravate acne and should be avoided. These include scrubs especially with grit such as apricot, cold cream cleansers, occlusive makeups, cocoa butter and oil cleansing methods (most often done with coconut oil).
PHYSICAL THERAPIES FOR ADDRESSING MORE STUBBORN CONDITIONS Vascular lesions: Vascular changes are often the most ageing of the facial problems as they can be a distraction, making the skin and face look unsightly. While IPL will improve most of these, I will use the pulsed dye laser for the stubborn vessels and the vascular birth marks. Dyschromia (pigmentation irregularities) has many causes. Often solar lentigos progress to initially flat seborrhoeic keratoses. These are not helped by IPL. A more aggressive laser will often be required. A clue that they are beyond IPL is that they become considerably darker with a fake tan. Fat reduction in the chin: 10 years ago, I first trialled Belkyra for the treatment of the classic double chin in one of our many clinical trials. The thing I like about this treatment is not just the fat reduction, but the skin tightening. This is why I prefer it to the cryogenic treatment of the fat in this area. Collagen induction therapy: Skin needling has been a revolution in therapy. While it is not as effective per treatment as a fractionated laser treatment, its great benefit is the minimal inflammation, so side effects like post-inflammatory hyper pigmentation are minimised. Ultrasound: Another fractionated treatment I recommend is ultrasound, which can give a useful lift to the face delaying the need for face lifting surgery.
Many other individuals may also experience irritations. A good example of this are the retinoids and AHAs. If these agents are applied too often, rubbed aggressively into the skin, or in the case of AHA cleansers, simply left on too long, a scaling dermatitis can be generated.
While there are many new technologies and protocols available to help achieve results there are instances when the role of a dermatologist may assist you. The most obvious is the correct identification and treatment of underlying dermatoses that interfere with facial treatment outcomes. A collaboration with a dermatologist can be invaluable in achieving effective, longterm solutions. APJ
It is important to caution anyone with an irritant dermatitis not to rub in their products. Friction is bad for the skin and only makes conditions like acne worse.
THE SKIN CENTRE 07 55977170 | www.skincentre.com.au
Irritant dermatitis in the skin can then encourage a true allergic reaction to occur. Allergic contact dermatitis can then cause
Dr Freeman will be speaking at the APAN Conference on the Gold Coast, May 28th see pages 24-27 for more details.
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EDUCATION
BECOMING A
COSMETIC CHEMIST COSMECEUTICALS now form an integral part of any cosmetic clinic. Cosmeceuticals and personal care products are increasingly becoming more advanced with improved efficacy. This has opened the doors to a new career pathway as a Cosmetic Chemist, or sometimes referred to as a Cosmetic Formulator. The role of a Cosmetic Chemist is to formulate personal care products such as cosmeceuticals, shampoo, makeup, and deodorants. Formulations are based on research and the scientific principles of chemistry – it’s both a creative and science-based profession. This career pathway is complementary to dermal therapies, pharmacy and many other health or beauty related professions. Completing a course in cosmetic chemistry gives you the skills to add a new income stream to your current scope of practice, or you may wish to focus solely on formulating to build a cosmetic-line empire. An example of how a qualification in Cosmetic Chemistry might add value to your position as a dermal therapist/ clinician, or as a clinic owner is by developing and selling your own range of skincare. Although there is an initial investment in development and formulation phase, profit margins can significantly increase in the long-term. Other potential career opportunities include: •
Research and Development Scientists
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Formulating Chemists
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Production/Compounding Managers and Assistants
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Regulatory Affairs Personnel (dealing directly with product safety, claims and ingredient compliance).
The Australasian Academy of Cosmetic Dermal Science (AACDS) is now pleased to offer Australia’s only accredited qualification in Cosmetic Chemistry, the 10453NAT Diploma of Personal Care Formulation. The course is developed to provide the most comprehensive approach to teaching the formulation of safe, stable and effective personal care products. Upon successful completion of this course, you will receive the assurance of an Australian Qualification Framework (AQF) APJ 22
Diploma and entitles you to the letters ‘Dip Form Chem’ and the title ‘Cosmetic Chemist’ or ‘Formulation Chemist’. The 10453NAT Diploma of Personal Care Formulation consists of 18 units, which is generally completed over 12 months on a part-time basis. There is also a 2-day practical workshop that is completed at the end of the course. As this course is predominantly studied online, it can compliment other work/life commitments. AACDS is also pleased to inform students that a government loan, VET Student Loans, is available for eligible students to assist in paying off their tuition fees ($9,900). VET Student Loans is a HELP debt that continues to be a debt owed to the Commonwealth until it is repaid. For more information on VET Student Loans, please refer to the AACDS website. APJ Niche Education Group (RTO: 51373), trading as the Australasian Academy of Cosmetic Dermal Science, is Australia’s largest and longest established vocational college dedicated to providing education within the advanced aesthetics field. For more information, please visit www.aacds.edu.au or enquiries@aacds.edu.au.
Learn to develop your own skincare range with our brand new course! 10453NAT
DIPLOMA OF PERSONAL CARE FORMULATION
RTO CODE: 51373
TRAIN FOR A CAREER, NOT A PIECE OF PAPER With the most recognised qualifications amongst the cosmetic medical profession, AACDS courses are comprehensive, relevant and an efficient way of achieving the best return on your study investment. With flexible study modes and start dates – there’s no better time to start. 10453NAT 10510NAT 52707WA 52709WA 1.1B
Diploma of Personal Care Formulation Advanced Diploma of Cosmetic Dermal Science Graduate Diploma of Dermal Therapies Graduate Diploma of Cosmetic Nursing IPL/Laser Safety Officer’s Certificate
For more info, visit aacds.edu.au or email enquiries@aacds.edu.au
APJ 23
APAN AESTHETICS CONFERENCE 2018
Dare to be the best — Achieve Excellence in Business and Practice May 28, 2018 Gold Coast
IN 2018 APAN is stepping up its conference program to deliver not just an impressive educational program, but also an amazing new interactive-style event that will make it memorable for all who attend. The conference theme will be Achieving Excellence in Business and Practice and will include a cross-section of industry topics to equip you for greater success. The first APAN conference program for the year will be held on Monday 28th May (due to popular demand) at the Mantra Legends Hotel on the Gold Coast and will include a L.I.M.E. experience (Legends Interactive Meeting Experience). This is a new-style program that will include interactive, refreshing elements to add excitement and fun to the event. Delegate packages will include a free welcoming drink on arrival. During the morning and afternoon tea breaks delegates will have the opportunity to create their own food by combining elements of their choice through a wide selection of fruit and other food items. Lunch will be a delicious healthy buffet, but that’s not all – you will get to see the Legend’s Chef demonstrate some of his mastery magic as he prepares one of his special dishes right before your eyes. Each delegate will receive a recipe card to take home. We are told that the Legends have snapped him up from Versace’s Hotel for his incredible cooking skills. There will also be other interactive surprises as well as gifts. This will be an amazing conference experience that will deliver excellent education, as well additional activities to make the event truly memorable. APAN STAFF RECOGNITION AWARDS This year APAN is introducing a special recognition awards acknowledging staff performance. There is no charge for applying for your staff to enter these awards and finalists will be able to register for the conference at a special discount rate of just $180. At the conference staff will also attend two sessions exclusivcely for them. These sessions will include the latest techniques in client acquisitions and improving sales. BUFFET DINNER Sunday night delegates, guests and exhibitors are invited to attend a scrumptious buffet dinner (including seafood). This is a wonderful opportunity to relax and network with other professionals. The special cost for APAN is just $55 per head. Pre-booking is essential through APAN. ACCOMMODATION If you would also like to book accommodation we have great
APJ 24
news for you. We have secured great conference rates of just $110 per twin deluxe room per night. With the delegate accommodation package you can also have the opportunity to attend a Yoga, Zumba, or Palates class FREE of charge. The Mantra will also offer several activities for delegates and their family to enjoy and it is only a stroll away from the beach. The Mantra legends is just opposite the beach so can also choose to attend beach classes if you wish. WHAT YOU CAN EXPECT FROM THE CONFERENCE PROGRAM:
8.30AM REGISTRATION AND NETWORKING NEW ADVANCES IN DERMATOLOGY Dr Michael Freeman - F.A.C.D Dermatologist / F.R.A.C.G.P. / Laser Specialist / MBBS. (Qld) 9.00 – 9.45am The treatment of the skin in aesthetics also requires that we address therapeutic solutions for acute or chronic skin disorders. This lecture will provide you with knowledge on the latest innovations in dermatology that are offering solutions for various skin conditions and disorders. Dr Michael Freeman is the principal Dermatologist at The Skin Centre, specialising in Cosmetic and Laser Dermatology. He has over 30 years experience in the medical field and in addition to his position at The Skin Centre, Dr Freeman is the Director of Dermatology at the Gold Coast Hospital, a visiting Dermatologist at the Princess Alexandra Hospital in Brisbane, and is an Associate Professor of Dermatology at Bond University. In this lecture you will learn: •
The benefits of new topical over the counter products now available
•
What are the current changes in lasers and are they worth it
•
New advances in dermatology
•
What are the new revolutionary treatments for specific skin conditions.
9.45AM – 10.15AM MORNING TEA WINNING STRATEGIES IN LIFE AND BUSINESS
Tina Viney CEO APAN
10.15-11.00am Every era and generation has its own set of challenges to overcome, both in business and in private life. While communication technology brings amazing information and solutions to us, it is also decreasing human contact and contributing to isolation, loneliness and depression. In this lecture Tina will present the new approaches that are supported by research to improve personal development and business performance, as well as offer more tangible benefits to clients and patients that will help you retain their loyalty to your services now and into the future. In this lecture you will learn: •
Tools to prevent and overcome burnout
•
How to create value and trust with clients and colleagues Strategies for personal development and growth
•
Developing a winner’s mindset
11AM – 11.30AM NETWORKING BREAK UPDATE ON QUEENSLAND HEALTH REGULATIONS David Gould - Principal Environmental Health Officer, Queensland Health (Communicable Diseases and Infection Management Section) 11.30am – 12.15pm. As a professional, or business owner you are required to ensure you are fully aware of your obligations when it comes to regulatory and licensing issues relating to the procedures you perform. These may be dermal needling, Cosmetic Tattooing or Microblading, etc. APAN is acutely aware of many within the industry who have a limited understanding of these
requirements and are failing to comply with their legislative requirements, including possessing the appropriate infection control qualification. This could lead to enforcement action being taken and could result in potential closure of the business or extensive fines. We are delighted to welcome David Gould and Katina Smith from Queensland Health to our conference. David Gould will present an update on the regulatory landscape and provide guidelines on how businesses can ensure they meet with regulatory requirements. David is a Principal Environmental Health Officer with the Communicable Diseases and Infection Management Section of Queensland Health in Brisbane. Queensland Health will also be exhibiting at the conference so you will be able to visit their stand for further assistance. In this lecture you will learn: •
Current changes and updates in the personal appearance services legislation
•
What every business needs to know when it comes to regulatory compliance
•
What procedures require licensing
•
How to access resource documents and important information for your business
12.15 – 1.00PM LUNCH BREAK STAR AWARD: WINNERS ANNOUNCEMENT AND PRESENTATION 1.00 – 1.15pm
STAFF WORSKSHOP: HOW TO REACH YOUR SALES TARGETS WITH EASE Tina Viney
Double-sessions: 1.15-2.00pm and 2.30 – 3.15pm This is a double-session workshop that will train staff in the new neuro-linguistic techniques that will help them alleviate the fear of selling and adopt the soft-sell approach of educational marketing to achieve their sales target with greater ease.
APJ 25
THE PATHOGENESIS OF ACNE: BIOFILMS AND ACNE VULGARIS Jacine Greenwood Dip. C. Chemistry, B. Nursing 1.15 – 2.00pm Treating acne is always a challenge however, understanding the role of biofilms will help you gain valuable knowledge on how to achieve better treatment outcomes. Biofilms are diverse communities of micro-organisms, which produce a protective extracellular polymeric substance that acts as a barrier and defense mechanism. Propionibacterium acnes reside within the pilosebaceous unit in a biofilm. They present a difficult challenge to clinicians due to their persistent nature and resistance to conventional antimicrobial therapy. The understanding of biofilms in acne vulgaris explains many aspects of the pathogenesis of the disease, including why prolonged antibiotic treatment is needed and why some topical therapies fail. Jacine is a qualified nurse and also holds qualifications in cosmetic chemistry. With over 22 years of experience and a background of cosmetic formulations, Jacine Greenwood has immense knowledge of current trends and research findings on cosmetic ingredients. She is renowned for her depth-ofknowledge and her incredible ability to make complex subject easy to understand. In this lecture you will learn: •
Understand the concept of bacterial biofilms and their formation
•
The effect of biofilms on keratinocytes
• •
In this lecture you will learn: •
The current status of the regulations
•
New advances in topical anaesthetics
•
What are the risk of system absorption and how to guard against them
•
Why education is imperative for the safety of your client or patients
3.15 – 3.45PM AFTERNOON TEA THE SOCIAL MEDIA PHENOMENA & PLANNING YOUR CONTENT Trish Hammond Director Plastic Surgeon’s Hub 3.45pm-4.30pm Attend this practical interactive session and you will be guided to understand the various social media platforms, so that you can design an effective communications strategic plan for your particular business model. An invaluable add-on practical session where you will learn how to create a content calendar from a Social Media and Aesthetics Medicine expert with huge industry readerships across all the major social platforms. Trish Hammond is an award winner renowned for her knowledge and expertise. She is a fun and dynamic professional who brings to life her content with candor and humour. In this lecture you will learn: •
Understand the different social media platforms and what they do
Learn why the use of antibiotics is not always successful
•
Understand how to create a community on social media
Cosmetic Actives that treat biofilm formation
•
Learn how to simply create content for your business
•
Learn how to develop an effective social media content plan. APJ
2 – 2.30PM NETWORKING BREAK TOPICAL ANAESTHETICS AND THE SAFETY IMPERATIVE
Chris Testa Compounding Pharmacist 2.30pm 3.15pm
Many new procedures such as skin needling, cosmetic tattooing and microblading as well as fraxel laser can cause varying levels of pain and discomfort that need to be managed if the clients, or patients are going to continue to access your services. New advances in compounding technology have identified ways of achieving client comfort without the need of high-strength anaesthetic formulas. Whether you are working with an offthe-self or a compounded anaesthetic formula, education is paramount to ensure the safety of your client or patient. Chris Testa is a compounding pharmacist and a lecturer at Griffith University. He has developed two post-graduate educational program for APAN that provide a comprehensive understanding of the various anaesthetic compounds, their actions and their safety perimeters. In this lecture Chris with update you on new advances in compounding anaesthetic formulations as well as regulatory guidelines that you need to be made aware of.
APJ 26
REGISTRATION The weather on the Gold Coast in May is glorious, so why not book to enjoy a holiday together with a high-quality educational experience. Pre-registration is essential for catering purpose. www.apanconf.com
Aesthetics Conference Gold Coast 2018 Monday, 28th May
Experience Leading Education with a TWIST! This year APAN’s Conference will deliver a new level of depth in educational content, as well as fun, through the introduction of new interactive activities adding extra value and contributing to ensure you have a memorable experience. THIS ONE-DAY CONFERENCE EVENT WILL FEATURE: • Leading educational topics
• Interactive food and beverage menu
• Staff Recognition Awards
• Interactive themed lunch buffet, with Chef demonstration
• Separate Workshop for Staff presenting “The winning soft-sell strategies”
• Local produce information, food trivia and Take-home recipe cards
FOR FURTHER INFORMATION AND TO REGISTER VISIT WWW.APANCONF.COM OR PHONE 07 55930 360 SPECIAL ACCOMMODATION APAN RATES $110 DELUXE ROOM
APJ 27
BUSINESSPROFILE
CELLBONE Groundbreaking Cosmeceutical just launched in Australia
A NEW and exciting cosmeceutical range has just been launched onto the Australian Aesthetics market. Cellbone is a highperformance clinical product that promises to deliver all the benefits of a premium-quality cosmeceutical at an affordable price point. To learn more about the product APJ caught up with Gaynor Simpson, Australian Distributor of Cellbone, who shared with us information on her professional journey and how she believes clinics and salons can benefit from introducing Cellbone into their business.
APJ Q1: GAYNOR TELL US A LITTLE ABOUT YOUR BACKGROUND AND HOW YOU GOT INVOLVED IN THE PROFESSIONAL SKINCARE INDUSTRY? I originally came from the UK where I qualified as a Registered Nurse in 1991. By 2004 I decided to explore the aesthetics industry and completed further studies to deliver cosmetic injectables and other facial treatments such as peels in Harley Street, London. However, my dream was always to come to Australia and set up my own clinic, which I did in 2008. I registered Cosmedispa in Queensland and started trading on the 1st July 2009. At the time, I contracted myself as a cosmetic injector to various clinics. However, I wanted to expand into other areas of dermal therapies to include technology and professional skincare products. As a result, in February 2011 I set up Cosmedispa Skin Care Clinic in Oxenford on the Gold Coast. The clinic specialises in non-surgical procedures and laser treatments. While I specialise specifically in injectables, we also work with highly competent dermal therapists delivering the very latest skin-improvement and anti-ageing procedures. As an injector I noticed that many individuals had bad skin, which I considered to be more important to correct than just having injectables. I therefore researched and introduced some reputable skincare products in my clinic and together with our dermal therapists, we developed skin treatment protocols to help address various skin care concerns.
APJ 28
APJ Q2: THERE ARE NUMEROUS PROFESSION SKINCARE RANGES IN AUSTRALIA, WHAT PROMPTED YOU TO SEEK OUT YOUR OWN SKINCARE BRAND? There were several reasons why I decided to choose my own range. While I was working with high-quality products I found that many of them were very expensive and sometimes out of the range of the average consumers. I also noticed that many of the professional products on the Australian market are also available on-line so clients could purchase them from the Internet. Both these issues were not good for business. Buying online not only impacts businesses within the industry, it also does the client a disservice as they cannot receive the relevant education. I had heard about Cellbone’s reputation as a highly effective clinical product so I researched them and the company. As the product was based in the US I actually visited the formulators. I was quite amazed to see that the ingredients were both high quality and of a high concentration and able to deliver clinical results that were impressive. It was also substantially more affordable. I also loved the company’s philosophy. Cellbone is a familybased and credible, innovative company. The formulators are a couple — Sun and Alex Bae. Alex is a biomedical engineer, while Sun is a pharmacist and also comes from a family of pharmacists — her mother was also a pharmacist. They are very passionate about quality and performance and they research extensively to ensure their formulations are of the highest standard and include a patented trans-epidermal delivery system. Their formulations are based on scientificallyvalidated ingredients that are well supported in the literature. The other factor that attracted me to them was the fact that their objective is to be recognised and to develop a reputation as a quality niche cosmeceutical skincare range, rather than aim to achieve huge commercial growth as their focus. This focus gives clinics a competitive advantage as the product will not be readily available through nearby clinics.
They also have a strict philosophy that reflects ethics – the product is not tested on animals so it is a cruelty-free brand. While their US website allows products to be purchased on-line, we have included in our contract that in Australia, any sales enquiries through their website be directed to our company. This will then benefit our clinics and salons in terms of sales as stockists will be listed on the Australian Cellbone website.
APJ Q3: WHAT MADE YOU CHOOSE CELLBONE AND WHAT IS ITS POINT-OF-DIFFERENCE? What I loved about this brand is that the pivotal focus of these formulations is around an extensive range of highly-concentrated and high-performance serums using scientifically-validated ingredients with incredible anti-bacterial, anti-inflammatory, healing and rejuvenating properties. Comparative products to these formulations on the market are sometime over twice the price. The lower cost factor with Cellbone is not due to a cheaper formulation, but because their marketing strategy does not have a lot of layers that would necessitate for it to be substantially more expensive. This means that clinics can achieve incredible results at an affordable price point that can attract a broader client base, making both amazing treatment outcomes, client loyalty and repeat sales so much easier. Having worked with the product now for several years we have first-hand evidence of this.
APJ Q4: WHAT SKIN CONDITIONS CAN BE TREATED WITH CELLBONE AND CAN YOU MENTION A "STAR PERFORMER" THAT IS THE MOST POPULAR? Cellbone is a clinical-strength product that can provide solutions for every skin type and condition from dehydration, acne, melasma and numerous skin abnormalities, such as rosacea, eczema and other inflammatory skin conditions. Our “Star Performer” would have to be our Hydra Repair Gel. This is an oil-free, yet super-hydrating serum with multiple, potent actives to address numerous skin concerns, repair cell damage and cell barrier function. Hydra Repair Gel is also known as “Ambulance in a bottle” and for good reason. Key active ingredients include Niacin (B3), 10% Matrixyl, Vitamin B5 Complex, Willowbark extract, Hyaluronic Acid, Idebonone extract and Centella Asiatica. This amazing product walks off the shelf as it delivers fast and effective skin repair for virtually any skin type and condition. Cellbone also offers a range of professional-grade peels and serums to support advanced procedures such as skin needling.
APJ Q6: WHY HAVE YOU DECIDED TO LAUNCH THE BRAND TO THE AUSTRALIAN MARKET AND WHAT SUPPORT CAN YOU OFFER CLINICS THAT WOULD WANT TO INTRODUCE IT TO THEIR BUSINESS? We can honestly say that even though we offer credible treatments and services the amazing results we are able to achieve through Cellbone have been as a result of the increased in client and patient trust that has enabled us to have a very high retention rate. We are also experiencing excellent referrals that have enable us to experience amazing yearly growth increase, which is quite phenomenal. As a result, we decided to help other businesses experience similar success. We have developed comprehensive educational resources, marketing and social media content and literature so that we can share our knowledge with others. In recent times we have added an additional seven more staff members to our business who are being trained to also become clinical educators. We can assure businesses that chose to take on the Cellbone cosmeceutical range can expect to experience the same level of success that we have. On a personal level, we will provide them with comprehensive training and education as well as marketing support to ensure this. There is 100% markup on the product so the profits are also generous. The advantage of introducing Cellbone to your clinic is that you will receive excellent education in both product knowledge, as well as clinical protocols that will include skin needling and other technologies to achieve advanced results. Thid is because the company is not just a distributor with sales people, they actually have strong experience as successful clinic owners themselves. You will therefore receive first-hand knowledge and experience on how to achieve the same success. If you are seeking a high-performance skincare range at an affordable price-point and winning treatment protocols then please phone us today and let us help you achieve the same level of success. We will also support you with territorial exclusive rights to ensure your commercial advantage. APJ CELLBONE 07 55800 403 cellboneordersau@gmail.com www.cellbone.com.au
APJ Q5: SINCE INTRODUCING CELLBONE TO YOUR CLINIC HOW HAS IT HELPED YOU INCREASE YOUR REVENUE? To say that since we have introduced Cellbone to our clinic six-years ago it had literally transformed our business is an understatement. Clients are experiencing rapid improvement and even though we also stocked other high-quality professional brands, all our clients are gravitating to Cellbone products and are asking to repurchase these over other brands. In fact, I can honestly say that the transitioning toward Cellbone has not been of our doing, but has been consumerdriven. Having seen the results, the product can deliver and the changes it has brought to virtually any skin condition has been truly remarkable. As for business growth, since introducing Cellbone to our clinic in 2012, we are experiencing 100% sales growth each year just from the retail product sales. It is quite astounding.
APJ 29
ADVERTORIAL
SKINIAL
The effective non-laser tattoo removal System We caught up with Deanne Carney, National Trainer for the SKINIAL tattoo removal systems for an update on this amazing non-laser tattoo removal method.
THERE ARE MANY NON-LASER TATTOO REMOVAL METHODS THAT USE ACIDS. TELL US HOW THE SKINIAL METHOD IS DIFFERENT? Not all acids used for tattoo removal behave the same way and not all Lactic Acid solutions are the same either. There are a few versions of Lactic Acid and non-laser removal methods available in Australia today, which are not the same as SKINIAL non-laser tattoo removal. We are able to remove a tattoo by using a weak water-based solution of Lactic Acid and a patented method. When determining a suitable safe and effective non-laser tattoo removal solution to add to your business, you must consider the delivery of the proprietary solution onto the skin, as well as the composition of the solution. Our patented solution, SKINIAL-EX and our SKINIAL Method was developed after many years of research and trials by doctors and dermatologists in Switzerland. We are the leading brand world-wide and our technicians are second-to-none.
WHAT MAKE THE SKINIAL METHOD A “SAFE AND EFFECTIVE” METHOD OF TATTOO REMOVAL? Of course, all methods of tattoo removal carry risks of infection, toxicity and allergic reactions and changes in the appearance of the skin being the most common. It is not a well-known fact within the ever-growing tattooed community that the tattoo process has already caused some skin changes as these generally go unnoticed due to the implanted coloured ink. Our solution, both the method and the aftercare protocol, minimise the most common risks associated with the removal of tattoo by any method. With the SKINIAL Method there is no risk of toxic chemical changes to the components of pigments and carriers, or second contact allergic reactions. There is no residue from the removal process APJ 30
left in the body, nor do we need to rely on the lymph system to rid the body of ink. As a qualified technician you are taught how to minimise the risk of infection and scar formation during treatment, as well as on educate the client on the importance of the appropriate aftercare. Our company voluntarily registers our products on the European Cosmetic Products Notification Portal that are also supported by Safety Evaluations and MSDS. More importantly however, the strength of the SKINIAL brand is determined by our SKINIAL technicians. These are chosen from among aestheticians and medical professionals and trained in the SKINIAL method as well as given both personal and global on-going support.
THE TRAINING OF SKINIAL TECHNICIANS SOUNDS LIKE IT IS AN IMPORTANT PART OF THE SKINIAL BRANDING. TELL AS MORE ABOUT HOW ONE CAN BECOMING A PART OF THE SKINIAL TEAM? Becoming part of the SKINIAL team can be exciting and highly profitable for the right candidate. SKINIAL technicians must be passionate about helping people to safely remove a tattoo. Quite often this means helping a client to move forward in life in terms of their career, relationships, health or self-image. SKINIAL provide a highly profitable service in a new and expanding market that easily complements any cosmetic and medical procedure. SKINIAL treatments generate a profit margin of 86% and around $290 per hour. We select our technicians from around Australia and New Zealand’s skilled aestheticians and medical professionals that meet with the strict selection criteria. Training in intensive and very hands-on. Our method initially seems relatively simple, but mastering the technique is crucial. Our team of trainers are the elite and highly experienced SKINIAL technicians. We train candidates one-on-one or a maximum of five at a time. Your training includes your Start-up Kit of SKINIAL EX and Aftercare products, website adverting, automatic lead generation, SKINIAL Facebook membership for your business and our international SKINIAL Professionals Group page. SKINIAL will provide all manuals, documentation and presentations for a thorough and legally-sound consultation to ensure clients are fully informed of the procedure, results and aftercare. It is possible to begin your SKINIAL partnership and be treating clients for under $2100 (Permanent Makeup (PMU) Removal only) and Body + PMU removal for $4400. The relaunch of our SKINIAL removal device in May will benefit new businesses that do not already have a suitable cartridge style micro-pigmentation device to start with. Payment plans are also available. For further details on introducing the SKINIAL Method in your clinic please contact:
DEANNE CARNEY 042 3621 764 australia@skinial.com
RESULTS YOU CAN BE PROUD OF
Cellbone offers an extensive range of
Cellbone are highly recommended
innovative cosmeceutical skincare uniquely formulated using premium, potent and patented ingredients.
internationally by dermatologists, plastic surgeons, cosmetic physicians, nurses and other professionals in the Aesthetic Industry.
Comprehensive clinical studies have demonstrated the efficacy of Cellbone products that combine high percentages of natural plant extract and active cosmeceuticals, exclusively formulated in the USA under stringent quality control.
With Cellbone you will experience fast, visible improvement in clarity, tone, texture and firmness of the skin. Client loyalty will become so easy.
CELLBONE
Cellbone offer an extensive range of 9
distinct product series to suit specific skin requirements and successfully treat a variety of skin conditions.
COSMEDICELL TECHNOLOGIES 07 5580 0403 cellboneordersau@gmail.com www.cellbone.com.au
APJ 31
INGREDIENTPROFILE
ACMELLA OLERACEA EXTRACT
The plant with the “Botox effect” By Tina Viney THERE is no doubt that the quest for looking younger is not about to slow down. In less than two decades the use of injectable muscle relaxants and fillers have now become commonplace and are more and more considered a necessity rather than a luxury. According to a recent Australian research we spend $22 billion a year on personal grooming but not including cosmetic surgery or gyms and fitness. As far as facial appearance is concerned, while in the past nothing could rival the ability of injectables to improve facial appearance, there are now some novel newcomers in the form of plant-derived extracts that are offering alternative solutions with excellent anti-wrinkle properties. Furthermore, their capabilities are not anecdotal, they are now supported by research. This, coupled with the fact that the “natural, fresh look” without evidence of enhancement is becoming the new vogue is giving rise to their popularity. Ingredients that can deliver a fresher, subtle and more youthful appearance are now becoming acceptable as appropriate appearance-improvement alternatives to injectables and surgery. One interesting ingredient that is making headlines is Acmella Oleracea Extract. This amazing plant can deliver excellent antiageing properties.
WHAT IS ACMELLA OLERACEA Acmella Oleracea is a small, tender annual plant that can grow
APJ 32
from 12 to 15 inches and spreads about two feet wide. The plant is also known as Jambu and Paracress and is native to Brazil and Peru. The leaves of the plant are a dark, bronzey green on top, with a paler colour underneath. The oval shaped flowers of this tree are a striking bright yellow with a single orange-red centre. Traditionally, Acmella Oleracea was used as a herbal antiseptic to provide numbing relief for toothache and thoat and gum infections By simply chewing on the leaves it releases an analgesic alkylamide called Spilanthol. Spilanthol is also responsible for the anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, and antioxidant activity of this versatile plant. Nearly every part of this plant provides beneficial bio-activities with properties of the actual flower being the most potent. Worldwide, the flower heads are used either fresh or dried and powdered, but the use of roots and leaves has been recommended as well. The plant is further recommended as a cure for dysentery and rheumatism, and to enhance the immune system. It increases the flow of saliva and is useful in fever, especially during summers. It is used against blood parasites, especially against malaria, both as a prophylactic and curatively. Previous studies have also demonstrated its diuretic, antibacterial, and antiinflammatory activities.
Acmella Oleracea has an interesting chemistry, containing flavanoids, sterols, sesquiterpene lactones and amides, as well as spilanthol with its anaesthetic effect. In fact, chewing one leaf is enough to numb the mouth and cause a tingling sensation on the tongue. The flowers are the most numbing part of the plant. Spilanthol is also a potent insecticide, able to kill mosquito larvae at a concentration of 1/100,000. “Eating a fresh flower bud is possibly the most moving herbal experience we’ve ever had” says one herbal lover. “Within a few seconds, the taste buds, gums, and entire mouth become overwhelmed by the intense tingling buzz, saliva swirling stimulating sensation. While this is happening, the mouth is being cleaned and the gum tissues, lymphatic and immune systems stimulated and strengthened.
ACMELLA OLERACEA AND THE SKIN So how is it beneficial for the skin? Research has shown that Acmella Oleracea’s numbing properties revealed that it can achieve effective muscle relaxant properties that work to relieve subcutaneous muscle contracts. This proved an interesting phenomenon. Further scientific studies have discovered that Acmella Oleracea can be used as an effective active ingredient in skincare to reduce and reverse fine lines and wrinkles. As a muscle relaxant Acmella Oleracea when applied topically to the skin, works to relieve subcutaneous muscle contractions of the face, which are greatly attributed to “expression lines” on ageing skin. Recent clinical studies indicated that 75% of patients reported smoother, firmer appearance in the skin within the first day of applying acmella on the skin. As a result it was identified as an
effective natural alternative to injectable muscle relaxants such as Botox, offering a non-invasive approach to an anti-wrinkle skin treatment regime. When applied topically, the extract of this plant relaxes facial muscles and reduces muscle tension. In turn, the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles are much less pronounced. Wrinkles caused partly by muscle tension, ease and relax when exposed to the extract, providing a smoother, more even complexion. As a result, we will start to see this ingredient in anti-ageing skincare products. Being a botanical with excellent bioavailability also means that it can readily deliver muscle relaxant properties without the need to skin penetration devices. APJ
Scientific Classification Kingdom Plantae (Unranked) Angiosperms (Unranked) Eudicots (Unranked) Asterids Order Asterales Family Asteraceae Genus Acmella Species A. oleracea
Binomial Name Acmella oleracea (L.) R.K.Jansen
Synonyms [1]
For a list of references, please contact the editor.
APJ 33
REGULATIONS
Aesthetics, Cosmetic Medicine and Surgery – Current and Future
NEW REGULATORY CHANGES UPDATE By Terry Everitt IN the last issue of APJ , Terry Everitt’s above-titled article updated us on some of the current legislation and what changes are proposed in legislation that may affect your business. Here Terry brings a further update on two new developments since the previous article was published. NSW keeps pushing for change in legislation and regulation via the Health Minister. Beauty salons and clinics may be ‘collateral damage’ in the investigations undertaken. The NSW Governments Health Care Complaints Commission (HCCC), issued a document late in 2017 titled Public Warning under s94A of the Health Care Complaints Act — Unsafe and Illegal Practices at Beauty and Cosmetic Clinics. This document was for the public and outlined what consumers need to do, to protect themselves when seeking either/
APJ 34
both cosmetic procedures, cosmetic surgery, or any skin penetration procedure. Primarily this related to checking both the practitioner and the business as appropriately licensed to perform such procedures. The warning provided web links, so consumers could check if the practitioner and business are licensed to perform cosmetic enhancement and specifically named micro-needling, Platelet Rich Plasma treatment, nonsurgical breast and hip enhancements, nose bridge lifts, double eyelid suturing and anti-ageing facial treatments. It is unfortunate that the ‘anti-ageing facial treatments’ is not defined. While we may assume it relates to cosmetic surgery, there is no explanation provided, so the public could think that this includes ‘anti-ageing’ treatments that you perform. This is worrying, particularly as other procedures listed (i.e. micro-
needling) are also ones that you perhaps are performing. The warning is blunt in stating Consumers who receive treatment in these circumstances are taking unnecessary risks that could ultimately lead to life-changing injuries or indeed death. HCCC continues to work with the NSW Department of Health’s Pharmaceutical Regulatory Unit to inspect beauty/ cosmetic clinics in several areas across Sydney to examine their operations and identify and address any areas of noncompliance. The document outlines many issues found in audits undertaken, some of which I stated in the last article. You can download the document from the Health Care Complaints Commission by searching for the Public Warning under s94A Update (http://www.hccc.nsw.gov.au).
REVIEW OF THE TITLE OF COSMETIC SURGEON The other main issue highlighted in the previous article was that concerning the title ‘cosmetic surgeon’. NSW Minister for Health Brad Hazzard stated new laws would target unqualified doctors who dressed themselves up as cosmetic surgeons. Agreement of the Health Ministers will be referred to the Medical Board of Australia to investigate appropriate ways to safeguard consumers. One option is the protection of the title ‘Cosmetic Surgeon’. The Australasian Society of Aesthetic Plastic Surgeons (ASAPS), welcomed this idea, whose 300 members are Fellows of the Royal Australasian College of Surgeons. ASAPS President Dr Mark Magnusson claimed that under current laws, Gps could “just hang around” a cosmetic clinic, then start operating without any training.
hotly contests this although admitted the widespread use of “cosmetic surgeon” was confusing for patients; yet argues the title is not restricted to specialist plastic surgeons. http://www. accs.org.au/download/?id=media&doc=107
REVIEW OF HEALTH RISKS OF COSMETIC MEDICINE AND AESTHETICS On a slightly different note, the Council of Australian Government’s (COAG) Health Ministers agreed in their November 2017 meeting to review the regulations across a range of issues relating to Health Risks Associated with the use of Medicines in Cosmetic Procedures. The review relates not only to medicines (primarily Schedule 4 medicines) but also includes (under Cosmetic Procedures) to review what is used in such procedures and by whom. Specifically, this relates to the Nurse Injectors, injecting without the doctor on the premises and how they get the Schedule 4 drugs. The aesthetic space, both medical and surgical, is being hotly contested by Government, doctors and other ‘special interest’ groups. There is no doubt that doctors want more control of who can do what in aesthetics. We must provide a unified voice in countering the claims that skincare practitioners should not be using certain equipment and not being allowed to perform certain treatments. You need to support the efforts that APAN undertakes to represent your interests on your behalf. Being an APAN Member gives you a voice in the various debates that are going on and allows APAN to more effectively fight for you. They are the one industry body that has great connections and skills in the regulatory space. It is important that your interests are protected and this is one role that APAN takes seriously. APJ
Not surprisingly, the Australasian College of Cosmetic Surgery APJ 35
SOCIALMEDIA
Choosing the Right Social Media Channels for your Practice By Trish Hammond – Director Plastic Surgery Hub WE LIVE in a “Social Media Era.” That means every business should have one, or more social media channels because a business without social media is not a business. That’s how it is these days, and your practice is your business, so you definitely need social media to boost business, get your name out there and be known, which enables you to quickly and easily reach out to your prospective clients or patients.
Another important thing you want to discover is what social media platform your specific audience accesses and responds to the most? To find out you can email, or send a survey to your target audience and ask them! “Which social media platforms do you use regularly to get information?” or “Which social media channel do you prefer to engage and connect with?” or “What’s your favourite social media channel, and why?”.
When starting, you can begin with just one, or even two social channels. Make them something that you can accommodate, master, and manage relatively easy, for example, Facebook and Instagram. If you’re not sure where to start, or which social media channel to start with, choose between the top social channels used today (Facebook, Twitter, Instagram, Youtube, Pinterest, Google Plus and Linkedin) learn the benefits of each of them and get your knowledge up-to-date. As you start to master the use of each social channel you can then start to work out which one/s really match the ‘taste and feel’ of your business and the clients you want to attract.
It is also important to understand the ultimate objective of your business in using these social media channels. Is it for engagement, lead generation, growing your profile or brand, increasing your mailing list, or is it for increasing sales? You’ll want to know your specific goal so you can focus on how to use your chosen platform effectively, which hopefully, you do to increase your bottom line. APJ
Some of the things you can ask yourself when choosing the right social media channels for your practice include: •
Do I need Facebook?
•
Is it beneficial for my practice?
•
Does this fit my business’s needs?
•
Is this something I can accommodate?
•
How many social channels do I need?
•
Does this social media channel meet the marketing strategies that my business needs?
•
Which social media platform is the one mostly used by other businesses like mine?
•
Which social media channel can do everything for me?
•
Which social media channels do people use most?
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Trish Hammond is the Director of Plastic Surgery Hub, an award-winning business that services the aesthetics and cosmetic medicine clinics in establishing and effectively managing their social media platforms for consumer engagement and business growth. If you would like to speak about your Social Media needs please contact: TRISH HAMMOND 0429 264 811 info@plasticsurgeoryhub.com.au plasticsurgeryhub.com.au We are delighted to announce that Trish will be one of our speakers at the APAN Aesthetics Conference to be held on the Gold Coast on the 28th May 2018. Here is a great opportunity to hear Trish and to meet her face-toface.
APAN stands for High Standards and Best Practice
BE RECOGNISED AS THE BEST
Here is why smart business owners turn to APAN for advice: “In all my years in the industry I have never experienced a professional body that is so knowledgeable, easy to access and provides me with expert advice and solutions to some of my most challenging problems in my business. APAN has saved me thousands of dollars in legal fees and I have been able to source a wide range of quality documents to ensure my business is run efficiently and is fully-compliant with regulations. I now have peace of mind when dealing with staffing issues, client complaints and identifying ways of staying one-step-ahead of my competition. Their advice is professional, comprehensive, accurate and extensive. The APAN ARAP and CTARP registrations further validate our staffs’ credentials and gives us a point-of-difference. We pride ourselves on our qualifications and commitment to best practice. When an external industry standards body can validate this, it gives our clients confidence that their needs are in the best hands. APAN is recognised as the peak body that fights for us at all levels, including the difficult task of regulations. Membership fees are affordable. They provide me with the best investment for my business.” Jane Bishop, WA.
MEMBERSHIP HAS A VARIETY OF CLASSIFICATIONS FOR BUSINESSES AND PRACTITIONERS A Specialists Trademarked Registration Program offers additional recognition. These categories are subject to evidence of qualifications: •
APAN Registered Aesthetics Practitioner (ARAP)
•
Cosmetic Tattoo APAN Registered Practitioner (CTAP)
Why you should become an APAN Member? EXPERT SUPPORT | REGULATIONS COMPLIANCE | REGULATORY REPRESENTATION | CONFERENCES AND WORKSHOPS | APJ JOURNAL | INSURANCE PROTECTION | BUSINESS SUPPORT
Make recognition of your professionalism your competitive advantage. Join today.
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YOUR SUCCESS is OUR PRIORITY APJ 39
SALONBUSINESS
Is Your Business Providing Employment, Not Profits? By Caroline Nelson WHENhen a business first opens its doors owners do not expect to make profit immediately, in fact, most realise it might even be a while before they draw a decent wage. In addition, financial advisers will recommend having sufficient backup capital available to cover at a minimum the major fixed outgoings like rent during the start-up stage, and not to expect to take a personal drawing for several months. But there does come a time when the business should be showing profits and the owner taking home a wage. However the sad reality is for many, even years down the track, they are still taking home less than an employee would earn. They dread visiting their accountants to hear “your wage costs are too high.” If this sounds familiar then you really only have two choices, either sharpen up operational processes and improve sales, or continue on supporting employee wages at the cost of your own income and investment. The fact is that your employees are responsible for achieving sales. They are not there just for you to provide them with a pay-packet each week. They are there to build your investment and revenue. However, you the business owner, is responsible for developing the systems to streamline operations enabling your team to achieve the desired sales goals. In today’s highly competitive marketplace only the best managed businesses, employing a skilled and motivated workforce will survive, let alone make good bottom-line profits. In this article I would like to discuss some of the best ways to develop a skilled, productive, and profitable team, and if that doesn’t succeed (and it doesn’t always with every employee), how to overcome the reluctance to let an employee go who is a dead weight to your business. Unfortunately, some employees do reach their ‘use by’ date either by being unproductive, regardless of training and opportunities provide, or because they are disruptive to the rest of the team. If or when this
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happens, don’t spend endless nights churning over the situation, instead act quickly. To avoid this anguish, it is always best if you take more care in choosing the right employee in the first place, but that’s not always easy to do. However, you will get better results if you select slowly and hire carefully. Make a list of what you’re looking for in a person. Not only on a professional skills basis, but also in terms of their attitudes. You can always train technical skills, but you can’t always change poor attitude.
CONDUCT A SKILLS INVENTORY With current employees you need to check their skills inventory to see if the skills set they have meets current and future business needs. Find out exactly what their capabilities are and what additional training is required to improve, or increase these abilities. It’s safe to say with the level of aesthetic devices now in use, it not only requires an initial very comprehensive training, but ongoing honing of skills and keeping up-to-date with advances. For this reason every employee requires regular performance appraisals. This will enable both management and employee to not only identify strengths and weaknesses, but to work together for improvement by implementing the most time and cost-effective training. I would recommend at the minimum Appraisal Performance Reviews be conducted with each team member on a quarterly bases. These reviews should be designed to measure progress towards developing high levels of people skills; high technical skills; contributing to the team effort; and attaining set targets. There are two parts to a quality review, one is how the employee gauges to their performance and the other is how management perceives them. Get each employee to “selfappraise” an honest assessment of their abilities, not what they
think the management wants to see or hear. The owner, or manager will need to complete a review of the employee, this is then followed by the interview process, when both parties get together to discuss the results and how best to implement improvement or “action plans” if necessary. Finding out how the employee views their skills and abilities can be a real eye-opener. For instance, you may have been under the mistaken impression the employee was very confident and skilled in a particular area only to see on the self-appraisal they indicated differently. Or more often, an employee will indicate a level of skill way beyond what their sales achieved. A good indicator is their sales history, if they rarely sell a service or product it’s more often because they are not confident of their ability or knowledge of this treatment or product. From my experience, sales depend more on the therapist’s skills, knowledge and their ability to communicate this to the client than the client’s wallet. In other words, if the client wants results they are willing to pay, but only if they have the trust and confidence they are receiving the best advice and recommendations.
WORKFORCE SKILLS BALANCE Another important aspect to consider when developing a productive and profitable team is to make sure your workforce is skills-balanced. While invariably, new beauty graduates could be part of the team, they must never be the larger part, because a sure-fire way to lose clients is if they start receiving services performed by people still fine-tuning their skills. Clients who are prepared to pay handsomely for their treatments expect to be treated by experts and not novices. Make sure your team is not predominately made up of trainees, recent graduates, or therapists with a minimum of industry experience. Remember that low-levels technical and communication skills will deliver lower sales, minimum up-selling, and poor rebooking rates. It also means the owner of this business will find most likely be personally performing the vast majority of services, which leaves them time-poor to train and up-skill their
team. It can sometimes becomes a “catch 22” situation and can lead to profits spiralling down. This is often highlighted by the lack of sales in certain sectors, typically the higher priced technology-based services that can lead to not paying the cost of these devices. Don’t be quick to blame the device when it may very well be your employee’s lack of skills and confidence in the treatment application that is stalling sales. In addition, regardless of your marketing efforts the low skills level employee will have difficulty converting enquiries into sales. While it’s often difficult for the small business to provide all their employees training needs there is amply training opportunities available to help improve skills and knowledge. Most aesthetic device and skincare companies provide training, as do workshops and seminars through professional development industry programs. These include in-house training days, seminars, webinars, videos and Skype to name a few.
CONCLUSION The plain facts are that the financial results achieved, or not achieved are directly relates to the management’s commercial decisions, be they good or bad decisions. As they say “the buck stops here”, so if your business is not delivering on it’s true potential only you are in the position to effect change. And don’t be frighten to seek help from your suppliers, and industry experts like myself in developing the skilful talented team you and your business needs. APJ © Copyright Caroline Nelson 2018 Caroline Nelson is a beauty industry expert who specialises in helping businesses develop their brand, improve productivity, and increase bottom-line profit. To learn more about her step-by-step program for salon spa success phone 0410 600 440.
APJ 41
INGREDIENTPROFILE
THE EVOLUTION OF THE HUMBLE SOAP By Tina Viney WOULD you agree that the implementation of better skin management practices needs to be acknowledged and regarded as a health issue and not just cosmetic? A good cleaning ritual is also critical to the health of the skin – removing environmental pollution, perspiration residue mixed often with makeup that can contribute to clogged pores. Left untreated, it can compromise both the health and the appearance of the skin. In this article I want to look at the benefit of minerals and the skin, and specifically consider minerals extract from water from the ground and what benefits they offer. One of the key benefits of water that is extracted from the ground is its rich mineral composition. Transported through water minerals are micronised and therefore more bioavailable to the body and skin. We can access these mineral through sea water, hot springs and
APJ 42
the Dead Sea, so let’s take a quick look at all these sources and what they can offer the skin and body.
DEAD SEA WATER The most concentrated form of minerals are found in the Dead Sea. This is why people that swim in the Dead Sea can so easily float as the mineral density of this water is so concentrated that it brings a level of buoyancy that is quite incredible. People, particularly with skin disorders, came from the four corners of the world to bath in these waters and often experience amazing recovery of their condition. In 1989, an Israeli dermatologist tested the effect of Dead Sea salts on 50 patients with psoriasis. 47 patients out of 50 (94%) experienced significant relief. The most improvement was shown in patients who soaked in a solution of 1kg of salt 3 times a week for 6 weeks in a row. Further investigations
and research conducted by the Department of Chemical Engineering at the Ben-Gurion University in Israel identified the following minerals, which attribute to the therapeutic benefit of these waters. These include: Sodium: The Sodium ions remove skin scales and improve its permeability. After penetrating into the skin, they bind the water and generate a feeling of suppleness, ideal for of very dry skin. Magnesium: Magnesium concentrations found in the Dead Sea are 15 times higher than salts in other seas. Magnesium is essential for cell metabolism. For instance, a significant deficit in magnesium has been discovered in skin scales and serum of patients with psoriasis. Magnesium supposedly affects the ripening of skin cells of psoriasis patients. Potassium: Potassium improves the oxidation and regulates the electrical process of the muscles and the nervous system. This is why asthma patients achieve good results from inhaling the salt vapours. Bromide: Bromide concentration is 50 times higher than common salts. Thus having a very relaxing effect. Bitumen: The presence of bitumen is a natural tar, acts as an anti-inflammatory agent.
OCEAN WATER While sea water is also rich in minerals it is at a much lesser concentration to Dead Sea water. However, it also possesses an incredible property — sea water is the closest in mineral composition to blood plasma, making it isotonic. Iso — means ‘equal’. In the field of medicine, a fluid is isotonic when it has the same concentration of solutes as found in the blood. In case of a saline solution (seawater included), it means that an Isotonic solution is 9% salt and 991% purified water. In a roundabout way, one might say that isotonic seawater has only 1/3 the salt content of regular ocean water. Since a red blood cell has a salt concentration of about 0.89%, putting it into hypertonic solution (>0.89%) would pull water out of the cell; putting it into a hypotonic solution (<0.89%) would cause water to flow into the cell, making it swell to bursting point. Putting it into an isotonic solution (=0.89%) would have no effect. In other words, if you had a volume of 1000cc (1009g by weight) of an isotonic seawater solution, then 0.9cc would be saturated salts and 991cc would be purified water. So, isotonic seawater has 9‰ (per mil) salts in solution.
Chlorine: Chlorine necessary to maintain the correct balance of alkaline and acid in the body, together with being vital for cell metabolism. Iodine: Iodine is necessary for the production of the hormone thyroxin, and is also vital for both energy and cell metabolism. Calcium: Calcium is necessary in strengthening cell membranes and cleansing the pores. In addition it is vital for production and maintenance of healthy teeth and bones, together
Because of the striking similarity between isotonic ocean water and internal body fluids, notably the blood, diluted ocean water has been called by various names – marine plasma, ocean plasma, quinton plasma, marine serum and Quinton serum. For this reason marine based products that utilise marine plasma are so beneficial to the skin because they so compatible to our own blood composition.
HOT SPRING WATER
with regulating the heart muscles and nerves. Zinc: Plays a role in enzymatic regulation of cell proliferation.
What about spring water? Spring water is released from within the earth where it comes in contact with soil and rocks. Coming from the centre of the earth the water is often hot and its contact and interaction with rocks and soil allows it to pick up valuable minerals in their micronised form that makes the quite bioavailable. The mineral content of spring water is small, yet significant enough to offer great benefit to the skin and body. Additionally, carbonated spring water sometimes found in spring water also caries benefits.
APJ 43
INGREDIENTPROFILE
Carbonate is beneficial to both the skin and body. When consumed it acts as a buffer to maintain a proper pH balance in the body. Bicarbonate is present in all organs and biological fluids and its role is to support correct pH balance within the body. The stomach secretes bicarbonate to aid in digestion. A simple mixture of bicarbonate and water can calm stomach upset caused by excess acid production. Bicarbonate plays a key role in maintaining overall health. The Magnesium Website says bicarbonate may help prevent kidney stones and lessen fatigue in athletes. The website adds that spring waters contain varying levels of bicarbonates, from 10s to hundreds of mg/L in still waters and several hundreds to thousands of mg/L in sparkling waters.
NEW GENERATION CLEANSING BARS While we know that soaps can be drying to the skin, there are now new-generation soaps known as cleaning bars. They are often formulated with mineral-rich waters from hot springs and fortified with additional nurturing ingredients such as vitamins, olive oil and other beneficial ingredients including coconut oil. Not only will these bars not dry the skin, but they will also release valuable minerals that will support the skin’s
Heviz, is Europe’s largest hot spring with its miraculously high mineral content. These waters have the healing power to moisturise and repair the skin. The sulphur, iron, iodine, calcium, magnesium and other minerals surface from a depth of 1,000 metres. Utilising the benefit of these waters the Zador soaps reach their final destination as a luxury skin bar collection made with a unique technology called triple milled. These beautifully packaged soaps please all of the senses. They are more than just a skin bar, they encompass a long tradition that is unfolded in style and sophistication. The beauty of these skin bars is that they can be used for both facial as well as body cleansing. They restore the skin’s pH, while nurturing and hydrating the skin. To access the Zador Bars phone 1800 554 545 or info@vogueimage.com.au. There is currently a resurgent interest in facial bars that are replacing the humble soap and their harsh ingredients and artificial aromas, with high quality nurturing ingredients that can go beyond just cleansing. They may cost a little more, but they last many, many washes and are worth their investment. APJ
pH balance and even improve hydration levels.
ZADOR SKIN BARS One good example is the Zador Skin Bar range. Formulated from the Heviz thermal waters in Hungary, they are carefully handmade and beautifully aromatic with sweet, mystic, spicy, woody, fruity or delicate floral scents that adds to their charm and irresistible appeal.
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PROFESSIONAL DEVELOPMENT WORKSHOPS In 2018 APAN launches Professional Development Workshops to increase your knowledge and confidence. Further courses will be added throughout the year. Registration is strongly recommended as numbers per class are limited.
TRANSFORMATION LEADERSHIP MASTERCLASS Phillip Fernandez
MARCH 27-28 2-Day Workshop GOLD COAST/BRISBANE
This session goes beyond business coaching. Phillip has amazing new information that is evidence-based. You will learn how to improve staff engagement and performance as well as grow your client base. He has delivered these lectures to large corporations who have experienced incredible growth and is now making these workshops available for our industry at very special rates. A must for managers and business owners.
THE PATHOLOGY OF ACNE BIOFILMS AND ACNE VULGARIS Jacine Greenwood
JUNE 25-26 2-Day Workshop GOLD COAST
Biofilms are diverse communities of micro-organisms which produce a protective extracellular polymeric substance which acts as a barrier and defence mechanism. Propionibacterium acnes reside within the pilosebaceous unit in a biofilm. Biofilms present a difficult challenge to clinicians due to their persistent nature and resistance to conventional antimicrobial therapy. The understanding of biofilms in acne vulgaris explains many aspects of the pathogenesis of the disease. Learn which cosmetic active ingredients have been shown to have a beneficial role in destroying and eliminating biofilm formation in the treatment of acne vulgaris.
SAFE USE OF TOPICAL ANAESTHETICS PART 2 ADVANCED COURSE Chris Testa
JULY 16 1-Day Workshop GOLD COAST/SYDNEY
This course follows up from the first course: Introduction on the Safe Use of Topical Anaesthetics and will take your knowledge further in how you can determine formulations that will best suit your client or patient based on the procedure you wish to deliver. Chris will also go through a comprehensive Client Consultation Form that will help you discover potential risks and ensure your client’s safety when working with topical anaesthetics. This course can only be attended by those who have already completed Part 1 online.
MELANOGENESIS AND POST INFLAMMATORY HYPERPIGMENTATION Jacine Greenwood
SEPTEMBER 24-25 2-Day Workshop SYDNEY
Melanin is the primary determinant of skin colour. Post inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) is an acquired overproduction of melanin occurring after injury or cutaneous inflammation. It frequently affects skin-of-colour patients, particularly those with a Fitzpatrick of 3 and above. There are multiple pathways potentially involved in the formation of pigmentation in the skin. Learn specifically what happens in PIH biologically in the skin and which cosmetic actives have clinical relevance in the treatment of this condition.
THE POWER OF AROMATIC CHEMISTRY IN ENHANCING CLINICAL OUTCOMES
OCTOBER 7-8 2-Day Workshop
Tina Viney
SYDNEY
Aromatherapy has come a long way in recent years with new research validating the therapeutic properties and benefits of many essential oils. In this workshop, you will learn how to integrate essential oils when treating various skin conditions as well as how you can enhance your client’s or patient’s overall mental and emotional state. Tina holds qualifications in clinical and medical aromatherapy having been trained by two world-authorities in aromatic chemistry – Dr Daniel Peneol from France and Dr Kurt Schnaubelt Ph.D from the U.S. She will be presenting some of this knowledge to enhance your understanding on how to use essential oils when addressing skin disorders.
CONFIDENCE AND SUCCESS RESULTS FROM APPLIED EDUCATION! TO REGISTER VISIT: WWW.APANETWORK.COM
APJ 45
PRODUCTPERFORMER
CLAIRDERM LAUNCHES NEW INNOVATION
PhotonLite Diamond Combining LED and Microdermabrasion Clairderm Medical Aesthetics are expert innovators of LED phototherapy and microdermabrasion equipment. Their latest “Australian made” innovation, PhotonLite Diamond, combines these two technologies in one machine enabling clinics to offer a profitable and comprehensive treatment of single, or combination treatments that are safe, painless and highly effective. This innovation is part of Clairderm’s commitment to drive business success by keeping Australian salons at the forefront of aesthetic treatments with expert technology that delivers consistently, the best treatment outcomes. NASA developed LED (light emitting diode) Phototherapy Technology is a scientific process that delivers specific wavelengths of the visible and invisible light spectrum to different levels of the skin, depending on its wavelength. This light is dispersed evenly in the cells converted to cell energy immediately helping to activate and stimulate different cellular activities. LED light can support skin rejuvenation, collagen and elastin synthesis, the reduction in the appearance of the visible signs of skin ageing and firming and toning the skin. LED is highly effective in the treatment of many problematic skin conditions, accelerating tissue healing, improving skin texture, calming sensitivity and redness and the reduce the P. acne bacteria. Phototherapy is suitable for both men and women and is completely safe. It doesn’t produce a thermal reaction in the skin, which makes it a painless, comfortable and pleasant treatment with no downtime. As it’s so gentle it can be safely combined with other cosmetic treatments like microdermabrasion, IPL, Laser and chemical peels to further bioenhance them and optimise results, or it can be used as a stand-alone treatment.
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While some results can be seen immediately, best results are achieved from a course of treatments with benefits continuing to show well after the initial course. Phototherapy can be easily incorporated into existing treatment protocols and has definite advantages for your business. It’s an easy and affordable treatment that requires no consumables, clean-up or sterilisation. It’s not labour intensive (you don’t need to be in the room) freeing you for 20 minutes to attend to your business. No calculator is needed as all treatment protocols are already worked out, all you have to do is just select the best PhotonLite program for your client and leave the room. Diamond microdermabrasion is a very popular professional non-surgical technique that is used to resurface, polish, refine and rejuvenate the skin in the one treatment. It will remove dead skin cell build-up on the skin’s surface, stimulate the lymphatic system and the production of collagen with the added benefit of being is safe for all Fitzpatricks. Diamond microdermabrasion is less abrasive than crystal microdermabrasion and involves the gentle abrasion and mechanical exfoliation of layers of dead and damaged skin cells using a diamond head tip on the skin’s surface. The diamond heads are available in different sizes and grits to customise your client’s treatment and they are autoclavable for additional hygiene. On completion of the abrasive process, a vacuum suction whisks away the abraded skin particles. The procedure is quick, simple and THE RESULTS ARE AMAZING! It helps to leave the skin looking and feeling smoother, radiant, rejuvenated, firmer and healthier looking.
NEW INNOVATION Driven by the need for a smaller, more compact and affordable LED machine that focuses on aesthetic treatments, PhotonLite, combines these 2 technologies in 1 system- LED phototherapy and diamond microdermabrasion LED phototherapy, making it the professional choice for non-surgical skin rejuvenation with the added benefit of perfecting the skin. It’s packed with features: 3 colours - red, green and blue, 12 built in programs, highly adjustable head, two-year warranty, user friendly operation, compact and lightweight design. It achieves outstanding results when treating age spots, photo-ageing, acne, skin texture, scars, fine lines and wrinkles with no recovery time. For more information, contact:
CLAIRDERM MEDICAL AESTHETICS 1300 781 239 office@clairderm.com www.medicalbeautyequipment.com
CLAIRDERM SKIN TRIO
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So why buy 3 machines when you can buy 1? Acne Before
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q Medical strength micro & hydrabrasion system q The professional’s choice for medical & aesthetic clinics q Offers a comprehensive range of skin rejuvenation & resurfacing treatments q Painless & hygienic q Stylish, slimline design- fits anywhere
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q Advanced non-surgical solution for the treatment of - fine lines & wrinkles, pigmentation - acne, scars, stretch marks q Over 15 years manufacturing expertise q 2 Year Warranty
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• Affordable Equipment Solutions for your Business • Accredited Training Programs • Technical Support from Qualified Engineers • Extended Warranties provided on all equipment • Over 25 years experience in high-tech equipment • Specialising in Top Quality Medical and Aesthetic Equipment
clairderm medical aesthetics skin deep in technology
1300 781 239 APJ 47
office@clairderm.com
www.medicalbeautyequipment.com
STARPERFORMER
SKEYNDOR POWER OXYGEN (O2) ANTIPOLLUTION LINE Purifying and eliminating environmental contaminants and boosting oxygen supplies
THE SKIN being the largest organ of the body is constantly in contact with the elements. Pollutants and dirt from the environment, gas and industrial fumes can clog our pores. Additionally, toxins from our diet can cause our skin to suffer. Stress and health concerns can also contribute to a toxic overload in the body that will ultimately compromise skin health as well. Detoxifying the skin is both an internal as well as an external consideration. A healthy lifestyle with regular exercise, access to clean air, as well as a diet rich in healthy fats, fresh fruit and vegetables are all critical to ensure skin is correctly cleansed and nourished from within.
It uses next-generation technology of an oxygen-trapping molecule that absorbs and transports oxygen deep into skin tissues to speed up the repair process, detoxifying and rejuvenating the skin. Power Oxygen is a carefully formulated skincare line that combines a powerful, natural extract rich in phytonutrients to reduce oxidative stress and protect against the formation of pigmentation. In addition, Palmaria Palmata Extract (Red Algae) is also known to support skin health.
A good diet rich in anti-oxidants, vitamins, minerals will also ensure the blood supply to the skin can deliver regenerative properties, while oxygen derived from movement and exercise will contribute to a healthy skin.
The Power Oxygen formulations provide a comprehensive salon treatment program that can achieve excellent results, particularly when combined with technology such as the SKEYNDOR ‘virtual needle’ Mesotherapy to infuse the actives into the skin.
One of the best ways to detoxify the skin is by improving blood flow as well as lymphatic drainage that will help to cleanse the skin of toxins, support its immunity and allow the release of valuable nutrients to nourish the skin.
To complement the salon treatment, Power Oxygen facial treatment, there is also an excellent range of homecare products ensuring long-term protection and otimised skin improvement.
TOPICAL CARE THROUGH POWER OXYGEN
SKEYNDOR products are not tested on animals. All ingredients are environmentally friendly, ethically sourced, clinically tested and proven. SKEYNDOR is at the forefront of advanced and next-generation formulations and continues to offer the latest in award-winning delivery systems and advanced ingredient and technological innovations.
Appropriate skincare can also play a key role in supporting the detoxification process of the skin. In recent times researchers have identified some novel ingredients that help to detoxify the skin and continue to fight free-radical damage. SKEYNDOR’s Power Oxygen is a new-generation skincare line formulated to improve oxygen flow to the skin, while also assisting in defending the skin against free-radical damage. Power Oxygen contains a new class of well researched ingredients that detoxify pollutants and heavy metal build-up on the skin and protect it from further damage.
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SKEYNDOR’s Power Oxygen O2 is the first line of defence against pollutants, fortifying the skin’s functioning while it feeds it with oxygen so it can do its thing! Please call 1800 554 545 or visit www.vogueimage.com.au for more information and training dates.
POWER OXYGEN THE CITY IS YOURS, BLOCK POLLUTION
CALL 1800 55 45 45 FOR AN INFORMATION PACK & SAMPLES DOUBLE ACTION CITY POLLUTION BLOCK + O2 The double action product line for your skin: CITY POLLUTION BLOCK + O2. Created to provide your skin with OXYGEN and create a BARRIER protective effect against environmental POLLUTION. Formulas with a high content in perfluorodecalin, an oxygen-attracting molecule, and in two complementary polysaccharides with protective effect. A combination of oxygenating, anti-pollution, antioxidant, detoxifying and prebiotic active ingredients for a more intense purifying and all-round protective effect. POWER OXYGEN is perfect for suffocated and stressed skin living in urban cities.
www.skeyndorpro.com.au
INGREDIENTPROFILE
NEW RESEARCH on the benefits Of ALOE VERA in SKIN INFLAMMATION By Jacine Greenwood THE AGEING process typically involves a general increase in the production of pro-inflammatory cytokines. The term â&#x20AC;&#x153;inflammageing â&#x20AC;? has recently been coined to describe inflammation that is occurring on a systemic level. This may result from multiple causes, such as the accumulation of proinflammatory tissue damage, a dysfunctional immune system failing to effectively clear pathogens and dysfunctional host cells and the propensity of senescent cells to secrete proinflammatory cytokines. To counteract inflammation in the skin there are many herbs and ingredients that can assist and improve skin quality. One of the most effective is aloe vera, which offers numerous skin benefits. In this article I will be sharing what research is discovering as to why this is so.
HOW CAN ALOE VERY INFLUANCE INFLAMMATION IN THE SKIN? Aloe Vera belongs to the family Asphodelaceae (formerly Liliaceae). Its skin benefits are attributed to it extensive nutrient content, as it contains contains Vitamin A, C and E, which are known to influence wound healing and antioxidant activity. Aloe vera has been shown to have a profound antioxidant effect. It also contains a host of minerals including calcium, chromium, copper, selenium, magnesium, manganese, potassium, sodium and zinc which
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have been found to be essential for proper functioning of the skin. Aloe vera also contains eight enzymes, of which Bradykinase is the most well-known. Bradykinase has been shown to reduce excessive inflammation when applied topically to the skin. Additional, aloe also contains plant steroids and fatty acids, which possess antiseptic, analgesic activity. It is a rich source of amino acids, containing 20 of the 22 amino acids required by humans. It also contains amino acids such as phenylalanine and tryptophan that have anti-inflammatory activity.
WOUND HEALING PROPERTIES OF ALOE VERA During the past few years, a number of studies have been published, which confirm the wound healing properties of aloe gel. The quick improvement and healing of wounds result from the synergistic actions of different constituents in aloe gel which are responsible for stimulate fibroblast growth, angiogenesis and re-epithelisation, and thus reducing the inflammatory phase. The outcome is an increase in collagen and glycosaminoglycans in the new repaired tissue. The active compounds responsible for these actions are cell proliferationpromoting glycoproteins, allantoin and other low molecular weight components that promote the re-epithelisation and angiogenesis
of tromboxanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s (powerful stimulators of pain and vasoconstriction in this type of lesions) and to stimulate the proliferation of fibroblasts, lymphocytes and neuronal cells. Much research has been done on the inflammatory activity of aloe gel that have identified the active principles and the corresponding action mechanisms of the various constituents of aloe vera. Research has been conducted using different animal inflammation models such as mice ear oedema, rat plantar edema induced by a wide range of irritants and carrageenan and air pouch induced granuloma. Anti-inflammatory constituents in aloe vera:
process. Additionally, sugars polysaccharides and phenol compounds, have anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial effects.
RESEARCH FINDINGS The beneficial effects of aloe gel on the skin can be observed, not only on incision wounds, but also on other lesions. For example, in 1935 aloe vera gel was first reported to heal acute radiation-induced dermatitis. Ever since, a number of studies have reported successful use of aloe on radiation, heat, or freezing-induced skin burns and on chronic ulcers. In these cases, the observed pain relief and accelerated healing are related to the ability of aloe gel to reduce the concentration
It has been reported that the agents responsible for the anti-inflammatory action are chromones and sterols, because they inhibit prostaglandin synthesis and reduce lymphocyte migration and infiltration. Moreover, glycoproteins block antigen binding to the receptors on mast cells surface, thus reducing histamine release and leukotriene synthesis and secretion. Furthermore, the phenol compounds fraction contributes to modulate inflammation, because of its antioxidant action and its inhibitory action on leukocyte metalloproteinases, which reduce the deleterious effects of these mediators. Other components also involved in the antiinflammatory action include Magnesium lactate, which inhibits histidine decarboxylase and consequently, the conversion of histidine into histamine in mast cells. Salicylates, which inhibit prostaglandin production from arachidonic acid by inhibiting cyclooxygenase. APJ 51
healing compared to the control group, or the group just treated with aloe vera. The rats treated with aloe vera showed an increase in wound healing and epithelialisation compared to control group, however when combined with microcurrent there was accelerated healing.
ALOE VERA AND RADIATION DAMAGE Aloe vera gel has been reported to have a protective effect against radiation damage to the skin. The exact role is not known, but following the administration of aloe vera gel, an antioxidant protein, metallothionein, is generated in the skin, which scavenges hydroxyl radicals and prevents suppression of superoxide dismutase and glutathione peroxidase in the skin. It reduces the production and release of skin keratinocyte¬derived immunosuppressive cytokines such as interleukin-10 (IL-l0) and hence prevents UV¬induced suppression of delayed type hypersensitivity. Research studies have also demonstrated that both commercially-available aloe gel and aloe extract significantly inhibit arachidonic acid oxidation in vitro.
IMPACT OF ALOE VERA ON OEDEMA In 1996, Vázquez, B. et al., performed a study which proved that aloe vera gel has anti-inflammatory effects on induced oedema. Different gel extracts were studied and it was observed that they reduced the oedema and inhibited the action of compounds involved in inflammatory processes. Therefore, aloe vera gel’s properties as an inhibitor of inflammation and its consequences have been confirmed.
EFFECTS ON COLLAGEN PRODUCTION Aloe vera contains Glucomannan, a mannose-rich polysaccharide, and gibberellin, a growth hormone, interacts with growth factor receptors on the fibroblast, thereby stimulating its activity and proliferation, which in turn significantly increases collagen synthesis after topical and oral aloe vera. Aloe gel not only increased collagen content of the wound but also changed collagen composition (more type III) and increased the degree of collagen cross linking. Due to this, it accelerated wound contraction and increased the breaking strength of resulting scar tissue. An increased synthesis of hyaluronic acid and dermatan sulphate in the granulation tissue of a healing wound following oral or topical treatment has been reported. Aloe stimulates fibroblast which produces the collagen and elastin fibres making the skin more elastic and less wrinkled. It also has cohesive effects on the superficial flaking epidermal cells by sticking them together, which softens the skin. The amino acids also soften hardened skin cells and zinc acts as an astringent to tighten pores. Its moisturising effects has also been studied in treatment of dry skin associated with occupational exposure where aloe vera gel gloves improved the skin integrity, decreases appearance of fine wrinkle and decreases erythema.
ALOE VERA AND MICROCURRENT Aloe vera has also been shown to have a synergistic effect when combined with microcurrent on the healing of wounds. A study performed by Medonca et al (2009) showed that surgical wounds when treated with Aloe vera gel and microcurrent showed an earlier onset of the proliferative phase in wound APJ 52
Aloe vera inhibits the cyclooxygenase pathway and reduces prostaglandin E2 production from arachidonic acid. Recently, the novel anti-inflammatory compound called C-glucosyl chromone was isolated from gel extracts. Aloe vera contains six antiseptic agents: Lupeol, salicylic acid, urea nitrogen, cinnamic acid, phenols and sulphur. They all have inhibitory action on fungi, bacteria and viruses. Aloe has been shown to have clinical benefits in the treatment of acne.
ALLERGIC REACTIONS As with all-natural compounds and chemicals, there is the chance of allergies. It is a rare occurrence but some consumers are allergic to aloe vera. Signs of a reaction include redness, burning, stinging and generalised sensitivity. Allergic reactions are most commonly due to anthraquinones, such as aloin and barbaloin. If your client is sensitive it is best to patch test first before using aloe vera. Aloe vera in cosmetics can come in numerous forms. Aloe vera juice which contains 100% juice and also aloe vera powder, which can be used in a concentration of 100 x or 200 x strength. The powder can also be reconstituted with water to form a gel. The majority of aloe used in cosmetics contains a preservative, particularly against mould and fungi as aloe is weak against these pathogens. While it is common to see a trend of water-free cosmetics, the use of aloe vera as a replacement for water is not recommended. Aloe, like many plant components, does have antibacterial activity but it is not a preservative. The use of high percentages of plant material (including aloe) serves as a food source for bacteria and pathogens and increases the burden on preservatives to keep the cosmetic contaminant free. The typical recommended dosage of aloe vera in a formula is between 0.5%-10%. Therapists should be aware that aloe is not innocuous and that it can interfere with other topical medication as well as oral medication. Aloe vera has been shown to increase the absorption of medicines such as steroid creams topically. Orally it also can reduce the effectiveness of digoxin due to its potassium lowering effects. It may also interact with oral hypoglycaemic agents. As with all OTC vitamins and supplements a medical practitioner should be consulted prior to a client using a natural therapy. APJ
For a list of references, please contact the editor.
The Highest Professional Standards now has a New Name As the Aesthetics industry continues to advance so has the need to identify its leading practitioners through a new Standards Recognition Registration Classification.
APAN REGISTERED AESTHETICS PRACTITIONERÂŽ (ARAP)
Is the new industry Registration. Applicants will be assessed on their qualifications, knowledge, skills and standards. Industry professionals are invited to apply for Registration. There are five Registration Classifications:
] Registered Aesthetics Practitioner Clinician ] Registered Aesthetics Practitioner ] Registered Aesthetics Practitioner Associate ] Registered Aesthetics Practitioner Master Educator ARAP ] Registered Aesthetics Practitioner Educator
AP
APAN
PRACTITIO N
AN
AESTHET IC
ER
ED
S
REGISTE R
Who can apply:
ARAP
Dermal Clinicians Dermal Therapists Cosmetic Nurses Skin Therapists Aesthetic Practitioners Educators A Quality Assurance Officer will assess each application on their qualifications and merits and determine eligibility.
APPLY TODAY For further information visit www.apanetwork.com and complete an ARAP Online Application Form. If you require further details please phone APAN 07 5593 0360.
HEALTHYLIVING
WEIGHT LOSS FOR BETTER HEALTH By Zac Turner MAINTAINING appropriate weight is strategic to good health and longevity, not to mention you have greater freedom to enjoy beautiful clothes and a modern style if you are not having to contend with the battle of the bulges. In this article Dr Zac Turner share both surgical options, as well as simple strategies in helping weight loss and achieving successful weight management. Technically there are multiple ways in which one can suppress one’s appetite, depending on how much money, time and effort one is willing to place in achieve their goal. Money, in all honesty, may help expedite an individual to reach their health goals, especially if one’s weigh issues are life-threatening. When a large amount of weight needs to be shed then a bariatric surgery can be an effective solution. This is quite a drastic measure, but it may offer a solution if one is suffering from other health complications where their weight can contribute to worsening the condition.
WHAT IS BARIATRIC SURGERY? Bariatric surgery is another name for weight loss surgery (WLS) or stomach surgery for weight loss. If you know that you are a good candidate for surgery, there are several different procedures available that can be considered. Here are just three of the most common: •
Gastric bypass or Roux-en-Y: A small stomach is formed from your existing stomach and attached directly to the small intestine.
•
Lap band: An inflatable band is placed around the upper part of the stomach, which makes the stomach smaller.
•
Sleeve gastrectomy: A vertical, tube-shaped stomach is created so there is less room for food.
These surgical procedures are usually performed by a certified bariatric surgeon who also counsels the patient before and after surgery. Bariatric medicine, including weight loss surgery, is a growing field. The methods used to perform the surgeries are always
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improving and becoming safer. But all surgeries involve some risk and significant financial investment. It involves a brave decision and a commitment to change one’s life for the better. Studies now confirm that bariatric surgeries are reversing Type 2 Diabetes in a patient with a BMI <35 kg/m2. This is remarkable and life-saving to some people, yet it’s something that does not come without a cost. However, with this procedure, decreasing appetite can be achieved over a short period of time.
SUCESSFUL WEIGHTLOSS STRATEGIES If weight loss is an ongoing issue for you and you would like to shed a few kilos, here are some simple strategies that will help you. First, increase your protein daily intake in each meal. Studies have shown that making protein at between 30-35% of your daily intake will decrease your ‘normal’ appetite. This is because the body needs more time to digest protein properly, also protein can help suppress the body’s hormonal appetite signalers for longer periods of time, and this of course, can assist with weight loss. In addition to a high protein diet, high fibre diets will have the same effect. A mean value was found during a consumption of an additional 14 grams per day of fibre that associated with an average weight loss of 1.9 kg over 3.8 months. In summary an affordable way to decrease one’s appetite is to increase the solids in your diet. Both proteins and fibers are made of large molecules and in most cases, bulky, making you feel fuller, longer. This connection of establishing an increase in protein and fibre in our daily eating routine over longer periods of time will establish signaling to occur in the brain that will allow you to adapt to this way of eating. This shift in the brain will ultimately allow you to better recognise when you are full without the need for excessive eating. When eating, it is important to take your time, reduce your portion sizes and try not to eat so fast. Over time, your appetite for more food will slowly adjust so that you will be able to better manage what you eat.
WAY OF INCREASE YOUR METABOLISM
Apart of eating more protein and fibre the easiest way to give
your metabolism a boost is to increase your physical activity daily. If you already have a workout regime, try introducing a high-intensity workout interval into your current program. If you don’t have any current workout regime you may wish to consider one. Even starting slowing by including 20 minutes a day simple routine will progressively start to show results. Introduce some lifting into your routine is also a great benefit. Weights will increase the demand for muscle growth and this will kick-start your metabolism into gear and help you burn fat. If you really are struggling to lose weight in those hard to reach places, especially on the abdominals, gradually work your way into becoming comfortable performing 30-45 minutes of some type of faster cardio. Fast cardio causes the body to turn to fatty reserves for energy. This will target those smaller hard-to-reach reserves scattered throughout the abdominals. Not only is this strategy helpful on weight loss, it is also an extremely efficient way to support the body as a whole. When considering weight loss, it also pays to look at how you can support your body with biochemical interaction. One example I keep returning to for maximising weight loss is to start a diet consisting of primarily proteins. This is because high protein diet will provide a dense concentration of an amino acid L-Carnitine, because when it comes to weight loss L-Carnitine is highly beneficial. For those of you who are not familiar with this nutrient here is a brief description. L-carnitine is a naturally occurring amino acid derivative that’s often taken as a weight loss supplement. It plays a crucial role in the production of energy by transporting fatty acids into your cells’ mitochondria. The mitochondria act as engines within your cells, burning these fats to create usable energy. For those who are seeking to get really serious about acquiring that sculpted look you might want to look into an approved L-Carnitine supplement atop of the previously implemented high protein and high fiber diet.
each expenditure. Layering properly, in accordance to the surrounding environment, can work to support fat burning that your body will need in order to burn fat properly and precisely. With that said here are some simple ways to increase your base metabolic temperature just by adding a few things into your daily diet. Try to incorporate some brown rice into your diet. This can be easily achieved by replacing the white rice in your sushi or any other dish for brown rice. Brown rice is a more complex carb than white rice, therefore it metabolises more slowly, which in turn, gives off more heat when compared to other types of food. Another great way of improving circulation and increasing temperature is to incorporate more ginger into your diet. Ginger will help increase basal metabolic temperature. There are numerous ways that you can increase ginger in your food or include it as a drink. Another useful addition to your diet is green tea. Green tea is known to stimulate thermogensis and several studies have shown that regular green tea consumption, or supplementation combined with dietary changes can help weight loss along by increasing energy expenditure and fat oxidation. A chemical in green tea called epigallocatechin-3-gallate (EGCG) is believed to be responsible for the thermogenic action. Try replacing your habitual cup of regular tea and coffee with green tea and finish your meals with a small cup of green tea. Green tea is also a common ingredient in many herbal weight-loss formulas. Weight loss strategies supported by a sensible maintenance program can be achieved through simple, lifestyle changes that collectively help increase our metabolic rate for better health and improved energy. APJ
INCREASING BASE METABOLIC TEMPERATURE Increasing you base metabolic temperature may sound complex, however we aren’t talking about turning you into an oven. This concept of ‘increasing’ temperature should be more focused on keeping the body warm at all times and to
For a list of references, please contact the editor.
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TREATMENT
THE COMPLETE HOLLYWOOD MAKEOVER
Combining Herbal Aktiv Peel skin rejuvenation and Cosmetic Tattooing JANETTE ZAKOS is seasoned profession in both aesthetics as well as a qualified Cosmetic Tattooist. She always seeks ways to not just provide effective treatments, but extend beyond her client’s expectations and delicer results that boost their confidence. In her quest to achieve this Janette designed an innovative way of combining a peeling treatment with cosmetic tattooing procedures, which she named the Complete Hollywood Makeover. The combination of these two modalities allowed her to deliver results that truly took years off her clients’ appearance. Janette was happy to share her work with us to inspire others on what can be achieved with a little ingenuity and passion for results. Her skin rejuvenation results were delivered through the use of Herbal Activ Peel.
APJ Q1: JANETTE, WHEN DID YOU FIRST EXPERIENCE THE HERBAL ACTIV PEEL AND WHY DID YOU DECIDE TO INTRODUCE IT TO YOUR CLIENTS? My first experience with the Herbal Activ Peel was three years ago when I had a treatment performed on my neck that was displaying a little sun damage and the skin was losing its elasticity. After having the treatment, I couldn’t believe the results. The texture of my skin changed completely. I noticed both smoothness, as well as the skin because more toned with wrinkles disappearing. The results were so phenomenal that I immediately wanted to introduce this to my clients at my clinic.
APJ Q2: COMPRARED TO OTHER PEELS, IN YOUR OPINION, WHAT IS SUPERIOR WITH THE HERABAL ACTIVE PEEL? Despite the fact that Herbal Activ Peel is a deep peel, there was no pain or excessive discomfort while the peel was activating my skin rejuvenation, so I was able to continue my
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daily work and still look OK. From my experience, most acid peels can be very aggressive. They can be quite uncomfortable and throughout the peeling process the skin can become traumatised and unsightly, which means that you will need downtime through the exfoliation process. The Herbal Activ Peel process of exfoliation is completely different. The skin is fed and nurtured from the very beginning, so while the peeling is deep, it is not harsh and does not inflame the skin.
APJ Q3: SHARE WITH US THE PROCESS AND THE PROCEDURE AND IF THERE IS ANY DOWNTIME? There is no downtime with the Herbal Activ Peel. This is because the old epidermal layers do not peel off until the deeper layers of the skin are regenerated. Until that happens the epidermal layers stays intact, protecting the skin, so up to day four and five you look the same — normal with a very slight pinkness. The Herbal Activ Peel works from the inside out and the products you use post procedure keep the skin hydrated and nurtured and also keep the herbs activated to do their regenerative work. The procedure is quite simple. First you cleanse the skin with a special solution. You then follow with a light steaming of the face. While this is happening, you mix the dried herbs with a special solution to activate them. The herbs are made up of an extensive selection of crushed botanicals, I believe there are over 25 herbs and minerals. These include calendula and aloe vera for soothing, horsetail for detoxifying, lungwort for gentle exfoliation, chamomile for its anti-inflammatory and anti-microbial properties, spirulina, which contains over 250 vitamins, minerals and trace elements. Another important ingredient is silica. Here is just a quick look at why silica is so beneficial.
As we know, silica plays an important role in a number of body functions, not the least of which is the health of various tissues (including skin) in the human body. As we age, our skin begins to degenerate at a more accelerated rate due to an increasing inability to retain moisture. This loss of hydration in the lower layers of the skin is critically detrimental to collagen and elastin health. The loss of hydration and the resulting damage to collagen and elastin leaves us with dull, sagging, prematurely aged skin. Silica slows the degeneration of the skin by helping the various skin constituents (elastin, collagen, mucopolysaccharides, etc.) remain vital and able to retain moisture. Actually, collagen itself is largely made up of silica! Moving on with the procedure. Once the mixture is prepared you introduce it to the skin and work it with pushing movements into the skin ensuring that it is deeply absorbed. You can only introduce it to two areas of the face — face and neck, or neck and décolletage. Following this procedure, the client is required to sit up so that you can wash all the peel off with cool water. You then apply a very intensive vitamin cream working with generous quantities into the skin, followed by a BB cream that has zinc as the key ingredient. These two creams feed the skin through the regenerative process and settle any inflammation. When this procedure is completed, the client leaves with just a slight flushed appearance to the skin, but with no pain and very minimal discomfort. The client then takes home the cleanser, the large pot of vitamin cream and the BB cream that are required to be applied to the skin liberally every day. In the event that the skin starts to feel itchy, or irritated they will need to keep applying the two products liberally ensuring the skin remains soothed and hydrated. Although the quantity of these products is quite large, both product must be used completely within the five days post-treatment. At the end of the fourth day, or the beginning of the fifth day the client needs to return for the clinic when the peeling
AFTER (NO MAKEUP)
BEFORE
process will be activated by the application of enzyme products which are massaged into the skin until all the dead skin has lifted and completely removed. This usually take approximately 90 minutes, but at the end the client walks out with totally new skin looking 10 years younger.
APJ Q4: WHAT SKIN CONDITIONS ARE BEST SUITED FOR THIS TREATMENT AND WHAT RESULTS CAN ONE EXPECT? The Herbal Activ Peel can be used on all skin types and conditions including acne — it is quite safe for everyone. Dark skins can also benefit from this peel as it does not cause pigmentation. In fact, it quite successfully removes most pigmentation by the end of the one treatment, while also improving the hydration levels of the skin, stimulating collagen and elastin in the dermis, giving the skin a more toned appearance. What I love about this peel is that it is also safe to use right around the eyes, so it is wonderful for smile lines and wrinkles around the delicate eye area.
APJ Q5: HOW LONG DO THE RESULTS LAST? The results differ with each individual, but usually they last at least six months. The most ideal situation is to have two treatments a year to maintain hydration levels, combat any pigmentation and support collagen and elastic integrity and skin tone. However, you can have more treatments if you wish, particularly with more problematic skin conditions. APJ 57
APJ Q6: TELL US ABOUT YOUR HOLLYWOOD MAKEOVER? As I am also a dedicated cosmetic tattooist I created the Complete Hollywood Makeover. This includes the Herbal Activ Peel treatment as well as cosmetic tattoo procedures for eyebrows, eyeline and full lip colour as a complete package. The combination of this amazing skin treatment and cosmetic enhancement through cosmetic tattooing delivers instant youthfulness, with clients often looking 20 years younger at the end. As a rule, the cosmetic tattooing procedures are completed five weeks before the peel. In our example here, the client was 62 years of age. In the after photo she is wearing absolutely no makeup, just her cosmetic tattooing, but still looks fabulous.
You will also see that the skin looks plumped, fresh, the pigmentation has gone and the complexion has a vibrancy, which I love. With laser treatments, especially laser resurfacing, the skin can sometimes have a waxy and pale look. You don’t experience that with the Herbal Activ Peel. Combining these two treatments, Janette is transforming lives. The results not only delight her clients, they assure her that the complements are also never-ending. APJ JANETTE ZAKOS 0414 389 603 janettezakos@gmail.com
ABOUT HERBAL AKTIV PEEL AT A GLANCE Skin peeling is a natural function of our skin. The basal layer of the skin constantly produces new skin cells to replace the older, outer horny layer that is shedding every day. Professional peeling treatments, whether based on synthetic acids, high tech equipment, or a compound of herbs are designed to speed up the cycle of skin renewal. In the process, the appearance of the skin is improved. Dead skin cells that make the skin appear dull are removed, the skin’s reflection of light is improved, appearing more ‘translucent’ and brighter. Traditional methods of skin peeling are often based on a variety of synthetic acids. On the other hand, high-tech equipment like Laser and Intense Pulsed Light heat the tissue to achieve their effect. Both modalities are designed to create a crisis by inflicting trauma to the skin. The deeper the wound the better the treatment outcome, however, with these methods there are always potential risks and adverse effects. Aktiv Herbal Peel is a biological method to resurface the skin developed in Germany by Alex Cosmetics. It has a 55-year history that supports its credibility for excellent skin renewal results for a wide range of skin conditions that are delivered with a high level of safety. It consists of a
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compound of dried, crushed botanicals with scientificallyproven actions. No synthetic acids or abrasives are added to the formulation. Practitioners do no need to wear gloves for safety reason, and there is no danger if the herbs inadvertently get into the eyes. Herbal Aktiv Peel does not rely on an injury for its result. In fact, the profile of the various herbs contained in this compound are described in the literature for their healing, soothing and regenerating effects. Spirulina, for example, one of the herbs contained in Herbal Aktiv Peel, is estimated to contain 250 nutritive compounds including vitamins, minerals and trace elements. No laboratory is able to match the biological processes of this single plant. Herbal Aktiv Peel can offer you excellent treatment results with conditions such as acne, open pores, blackheads and milia, pigmentation and sun damaged skin, scarring and stretchmarks. It also offers excellent results for skin with loss of elasticity and for skin rejuvenation. It will exfoliate damaged skin at the right time when the renewed cells process has reached its peak. Herbal Aktiv Peel is distributed in Australia by Omniderm Ph: 1300 301 007.
TIPS FOR BETTER BUSINESS
Business & Legislation, New Tools and Research Outcome
When will the changes commence? The reforms will start on 31 March 2018. Will there be a transitional period? Yes, there will be a transitional period of some months from 31 March 2018. A Statement of Regulatory Intent was issued in February 2018. It provides guidance for businesses on the interim arrangements applying to the sale of pre-printed gift card stock and other matters. It would be prudent for new orders of pre-printed stock to carry terms consistent with the 31 March requirements.
NEW RULES ABOUT GIFT CARD EXPIRY DATES AFTER NSW CONSUMERS LOSE $60M A YEAR Amendments to the Fair Trading Act 1987 were passed by the NSW Parliament in October 2017 and are due to be implemented in 2018 related to the expiry dates of gift cards and gift vouchers. The amendments introduce a mandatory 3-year minimum expiry date on gift cards and gift vouchers sold to consumers in NSW. Businesses will also be banned from applying postpurchase administrative fees, which have the effect of reducing the balance left on a card. A review by the Commonwealth Consumer Affairs Advisory Council (CCAAC) in 2012 found that gift cards were expiring with money left on them at a rate of three to eight per cent (the ‘breakage rate’). For NSW consumers, this loss could be as much as $60 million a year. NSW consumers are losing benefits because of their inability to redeem gift cards and gift vouchers that have expired. The amendments could help address this ongoing financial harm, better protect consumers and provide certainty of their rights. Here are some commonly asked questions: Does this apply to gift vouchers as well as gift cards? Yes. The changes will apply to both gift cards and gift vouchers. Three-year minimum expiry date The new law sets a mandatory minimum expiry date of 3-years for most gift card products. The expiry date can extend beyond 3 years and no time limit cap applies. Can I still charge an administrative or issuing fee? Businesses are still entitled to charge an administration/issue fee at the time the gift card is purchased. However, once the card has been issued, there is a ban on any fee associated with redeeming the gift card that would reduce the value of the card – such as activation fees or account keeping fees.
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What about gift cards sold prior to 31 March 2018? Any gift card sold prior to the commencement of the new law on 31 March 2018 is not required to comply with the reforms. The existing expiry period, as well as other terms and conditions that applied to the card when it was sold, will still apply. However, some businesses have already implemented the 36-month minimum expiry date, or no expiry date, for their cards. What is included and what is excluded from these reforms? Some gift cards are excluded from the reforms. The table below is a quick guide to what is and is not included in these reforms. Table 1 – Types of gift cards included/excluded in the reforms
Gift Card Type
Included?
A gift card redeemable for goods or services purchased in a NSW store.
Yes
Gift cards purchased by a business for the purpose of giving them to staff or a customer in a normal gift giving situation.
Yes
A gift card that has been purchased online and the address given by the customer was in NSW only.
Yes
A gift card purchased online where no address is provided.
Yes
A card or voucher exchanged for goods returned to the supplier of the goods.
No
Prepaid cards for phone or internet services.
No
Debit cards, credit cards, prepaid travel cards and other similar cards that are issued by financial institutions.
No
Cards supplied as part of a customer loyalty program.
No
Note: This list is indicative of the major product groups. A complete list is expected to be published in February 2018. Accounting for gift card liabilities longer than 12 months Generally speaking, a minimum 3-year expiry date on gift cards will mean that it may take longer to account for revenue from the sale of gift cards. This is because gift card revenue is usually accounted for when a gift card is redeemed or expired. Similarly, the records of financial liabilities resulting from gift card sales may need to be maintained for a longer period of time. However, there is currently no uniform accounting standard for gift cards, so the impact of gift card reforms on your businesses may vary depending on your accounting practices. In certain circumstances, businesses can account revenue from unredeemed gift cards earlier than the minimum 3-year expiry date. Contact your accountant or the Australian Taxation Office for advice. Will small businesses have to comply too? Yes. The only exception is for the gift cards types that are excluded from the reforms. What if I sell gift cards online or over the phone? How will the reforms apply to these sales? If your business is based in NSW and you sell gift cards online or over the phone, it is more than likely these reforms will apply.
The reforms apply to gift cards sold to a consumer who is in NSW at the time of sale, or sold to a consumer who provides a NSW address in connection with the sale. Cards sold to consumers who provide any address at the point of sale that is outside NSW are not required to carry a 3-year expiry date. Unless you are certain and can demonstrate that the customer resides outside NSW, it is safer to assume the customer is NSW-based and therefore the gift card they purchase from you is governed by these reforms. What if I sell a gift card to someone in another state or if the person is from another state? If a visitor from another state or territory buys a gift card while they are in NSW and the gift card can be redeemed for goods or services in NSW, the reforms will apply to the card or voucher sold to them. Penalties for non-compliance A breach of the new laws could attract a penalty infringement notice of $550 and result in a maximum penalty of $5500. Honouring gift cards issued under the previous ownership If the business you are now the owner of is a “going concern” (able to pay its debts when they are due, and continue to operate without any intention to liquidate or wind up operations for at least the next 12 months) then you are required under the Australian Consumer Law to honour existing gift cards purchased under previous ownership of the business. (See CEO’s report for further details pages 8-9). APJ
Table 2 – Quick reference guide for gift cards purchased online
Gift Card is purchased online or over the phone
Covered?
NSW address for delivery and NSW contact details are provided
Yes
Interstate contact/address details and NSW delivery details are provided
No
NSW contact details but interstate delivery address are provided
No
Only a NSW contact address provided
Yes
Only a NSW delivery address provided
Yes
No contact or delivery address are provided
Yes
International websites only a NSW billing address provided
Yes
International websites only a NSW delivery address provided
Yes
International websites any contact or delivery address provided are not in NSW
No
HOW TO MANAGE STRESS AND IMPROVE PRODUCTIVITY IN THE WORKPLACE Feeling stressed or overwhelmed in the workplace is not uncommon and sometimes it can creep up on you without you realising it. Some stress is normal, but if it is ongoing it can negatively affect your business or result in high turnover of staff and low productivity. Additionally, it can contribute to health issues for those involved.
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TIPS FOR BETTER BUSINESS
Business & Legislation, New Tools and Research Outcome
If you are a business owner and you identify that a staff member seems to be distracted, or looking stress and not coping well with their responsibilities you are required to investigate this before taking any warning actions. It’s important to have conversations with your employees regularly to find out how they are. External factors may cause someone to feel stressed, such as trauma, loss of a family member or friend, financial problems, health concerns or family or friendship breakdowns. Here are a few of the most common workplace situations that you should consider that contribute to stress: •
Poor working environment that may not suit the individual’s health condition
•
Bad management practices, such as a lack of clear policies and communication
•
Workloads and demand that have increased with the staff not coping as well
•
Employee relationships, such as jealousies, or staff conflicts that can contribute to on-going tension
•
Role conflict, such as responsibilities that the staff member is not trained to undertake
1. Maintain a healthy work-life balance, make time for family and friends and activities you enjoy 2. Exercise regularly to help boost your energy levels and improve stamina 3. Maintain a healthy lifestyle by eating healthy and getting enough sleep – this is critical 4. Learn to say ‘no’ if you feel you are overcommitted 5. Plan events ahead of time, so you know what’s coming up 6. Find ways to relax and unwind, such as meditation, listening to music or incorporating breathing techniques into your daily routine. APJ
Keep an eye on your staff for common warning signs of stress. They might be feeling, or show signs of: •
Being panicked or anxious
•
Muscle tension
•
Headaches
•
Poor sleep
•
Being irritable
Paying attention to your employee’s stress levels is vital — you need to remember everyone handles stress differently. Here are some ways you can support stressed staff and create a safe workplace: •
Provide a space where your employees can take a rest or break
•
Encourage the use of personal leave when they need it
•
Make sure your workplace is designed correctly to allow sunlight and fresh air
•
Make sure your employees know who to turn to get support
•
Consider flexible working arrangements
•
Have a culture of open communication and have regular check-ins with your staff.
Here are seven tips on how to manage and reduce stress. Encourage your staff in these areas to increase productivity:
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ARE YOU PROTECTING YOUR CLIENTS’ INFORMATION IN LINE WITH PRIVACY LAWS? As a personal care service provider, you are required to collect extensive personal information from your clients in order to identify safety considerations and determine the most effective treatment options and procedures to meet with their expectations. However, there are privacy laws around on collecting and storing of your clients’ personal information that you must adhere to. For example as a business owner, you have a responsibility to protect personal information from: •
Theft
•
Misuse
•
Interference
•
Loss
•
Unauthorised access
•
Modification
•
Disclosure
You are also required to take reasonable steps to destroy, or conceal personal information when it’s no longer needed. You must also take reasonable steps to destroy or de-identify personal information when it is no longer needed for any purpose permitted under the Privacy Act. This might include shredding documents or storing them in a secure area. The Privacy Act 1988 (Privacy Act) is an Australian law which regulates the management, storing, access and correction of personal information about individuals. The Privacy Act includes thirteen Australian Privacy Principles (APPs) that businesses covered by the Privacy Act will need to comply with. Defining your clients’ personal information Your clients’ personal information is any information where you can identify or reasonably identify the individual. It doesn’t matter if the information or opinion is true or what form it is recorded in. Personal information includes your clients’ – name, signature, address, email, telephone number, date of birth, health and medical records, bank account, credit card details, where they work, photos, videos or information about their opinions. Does your business need to comply with the Privacy Act 1988? Businesses with an annual turnover of more than $3 million must comply with the Privacy Act 1988. However, small businesses with an annual turnover of $3 million or less also have responsibilities under the Privacy Act particularly if they are collecting health service providers or collecting data pertaining to the individual’s health. From 22 February 2018, businesses with an annual turnover of more than $3 million will need to comply with the Notifiable Data Breaches scheme under the Privacy Act 1988. If a data breach involves personal information and is likely to cause serious harm to an individual, you will need to notify both the individual involved, and the Office of Australian Information Commissioner (OAIC). AUSTRALIAN PRIVACY PRINCIPLES (APPs) The Australian Privacy Principles (APPs) are guidelines which businesses under the Privacy Act will need to comply with. It’s
a good idea to consult the APPs and the APP guidelines to help you understand your responsibilities, such as: •
You must implement practices, procedures and systems to ensure compliance with the APPs and to handle complaints.
•
You must make available an up-to-date and clear privacy policy, setting out certain information on how you will manage personal information.
•
You must take reasonable steps to protect the personal information collected or held.
•
You must take reasonable steps to ensure that personal information collected is accurate, complete and up to date.
•
You must give individuals access to their personal information on request.
You must correct personal information where you become aware that it is either inaccurate, incomplete, out-of-date, irrelevant, misleading or where requested by the individual. •
You can only collect personal information if it is necessary for the function or activity of your business.
•
You must de-identify or delete unsolicited personal information as soon as is practical, if it is not necessary for the function or activity of your business.
•
You should not use or disclose personal information for a purpose different from the original purpose of collection, except in limited circumstances.
•
Although you can collect and use personal information, you generally need the individuals consent first.
•
You must not use or disclose personal information for a direct marketing purpose, except in limited circumstances.
Even if the Privacy Act doesn’t cover your business, it’s important to handle your customer’s personal information appropriately. If you do not have a Privacy Policy in your business APAN’s solicitors have drafted one that suits our industry and is in line with the Privacy Laws. Contact APAN on 07 55930360 or email info@apanetwork.com for further details. APJ
10 QUICK WAYS TO MOTIVATE YOUR STAFF We have all heard of Mondayitis – you and your staff may have had a great weekend, or even a lousy one that is contributing to a lack of motivation when starting a new week. One method to get your thoughts back on track is to start the day with a brief, but powerful motivational quote. You can introduce one each week, or even each day if you wish, but usually first thing on Monday morning works a treat. This is a simple strategy that really works.
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TIPS FOR BETTER BUSINESS
Business & Legislation, New Tools and Research Outcome
Gather your staff first thing on Monday morning and go through the goals for the week. Then finish off with a thoughtprovoking quote. Allow the staff to give you their feedback on it and start a brief conversation that helps everyone to eliminate bad attitudes and start the day with a productive mindset. Here are some business quotes you may wish to introduce. They come from the Most Famous Motivational Quotes from the World’s Most Influential Leaders:
1. Nothing is impossible, the word itself says “I’m possible”! — Audrey Hepburn
employees who are able to work long hours in a routine job. Subtle differences exist from workplace to workplace. However, regardless of the qualities they are looking for there are universal qualities that all employers appreciate. GOOD EMPLYEE CHECKLIST FOR SUCCESS Fundamentally, here are the qualities, skills, characteristics, attitudes, beliefs, and values that will get your name on the list of good employees: •
Good employees work hard. They don’t work for show like staying late when the boss does, or coming in early so that they are seen as hard workers. They just work hard because they are committed to getting the best results and successfully completing the task they are given.
•
Good employees valued and measure their own success. At the end of the day when they go home they want to know that they have reached their goals and targets and get personal satisfaction for this. They don’t always look to others to motivate them.
•
Good employees tell the truth and have reputations for integrity. They exhibit integrity in every business dealing. You trust these good employees to always tell the truth and to exhibit fundamental integrity in all of their actions and in their outlook. They don’t scam the system, shade stories to make themselves look good, or omit details that are less than positive. Trust is key when you consider an employee with integrity who have their own set of values that they live by.
•
Good employees seek growth and development. Never satisfied to remain still, your good employees want to grow their capacity as a human being. They want to grow their skills and experience as a valued employee. Good employees want to grow their skills, capabilities, contributions, breadth of influence, positive impact, exceptional results, and more. They get board with yesterday’s knowledge and take the initiative to invest in their own professional development and in growing their skills.
2. Perfection is not attainable, but if we chase perfection we can catch excellence. — Vince Lombardi 3. Remember, you have worth. No one can make you feel inferior without your consent. — Eleanor Roosevelt 4. Strive not to be a success, but rather to be of value. —Albert Einstein 5. The only way to do great work is to love what you do. —Steve Jobs 6. The most difficult thing is the decision to act, the rest is merely tenacity. — Amelia Earhart 7. Change your thoughts and you change your world. —Norman Vincent Peale 8. Limitations live only in our minds. But if we use our imaginations, our possibilities become limitless. — Jamie Paolinetti 9. If you hear a voice within you say “you cannot paint,” then by all means paint and that voice will be silenced. — Vincent Van Gogh 10. How wonderful it is that nobody need wait a single moment before starting to improve the world. — Anne Frank APJ
ARE YOU ON THE LIST OF A GOOD EMPLOYEE? We would have to say that one of the most stressful and frustrating issues that most businesses face is in finding the right staff. Often part of the reason is that those they interview are not exhibiting the attitudes and characteristics that can constitute a good employee. Of course, what employers are looking for differ depending on the position they are trying to fill. Different workplaces have different definitions of good employees. For example, one workplace may love creative people who bring new ideas to work. Another may cherish
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•
Good employees are accountable. Good employees take responsibility for themselves and their actions and decisions. They don’t finger-point and blame others for less than stellar performance or results. They don’t make excuses or blame a lack of resources when projects, or initiatives fail to work out.
•
Good employees value others. Good employees foster teamwork, exhibit well-developed emotional intelligence to understand other employees and work situations and support and show appreciation of their colleagues. They are quick to respond to a team effort and are also quick to acknowledge and thank their colleagues for any help they have received from them.
•
Good employees always remain professional. Good employees know when to leave their personal problems at the door when entering their workplace. If they are dealing with a personal issue that they want their employer to know about, they discuss this privately with them. However, they maintain appropriate professional conduct with their clients and refrain from discussing their personal life with them.
•
Good employees seek to expand their reach and contribution. Not satisfied to do just their job, good employees exhibit the desire to contribute more to their organisation. They help other employees who fall behind. They ask their boss for additional responsibilities and opportunities to add value and help the business
grow. They put forward and good suggestions and recommendations that could improve the services and business turnover. Good employees understand that their on-going employment and potential pay increase or bonuses will be contingent on the business continuing to grow financially and in reputation. •
Good employees are committed to continuous improvement. Not content with the status quo, good employees constantly look for ways to do their jobs more effectively and efficiently. Each project is reviewed and analysed. Good employees learn from and change their approach and actions based on the success or failure of their initiatives. If something fails, they don’t get discourage, they seek ways of improving what they are doing to ensure its success.
•
Good employees don’t hold on to grudges. Good employees show respect and gratitude to their employer and do not allow matters to fester. They are open and honest. If they are unhappy about something they communicate this in a respectful manner to management and seek ways for positive resolutions.
•
They look at ways of protecting the business. Good employees will immediately communicate to management any client grievance or any ethics issues that may threaten the reputation of the business and seek ways to support the business. APJ
INTRODUCING BEAUTYPAY APAN REWARDS Helping you do business better! SPECIAL APAN MEMBERS’ OFFER BeautyPay is proud to be the new APAN Strategic Alliance Partner. We have negotiated a VERY SPECIAL LIMITED TIME OFFER to help APAN Members gain support and grow their businesses. By quoting your membership No. and BPREWARD, BeautyPay will waiver their $395 setup fee meaning you can setup BeautyPay in your business for FREE. This offer is limited to APAN members and must be redeemed within two weeks of contacting BeautyPay with your enquiry. This means that there will be no cost to your businesses to set up BeautyPay. Help alleviate financial limitations in securing your clients’ loyalty. BeautyPay is a proven strategy for business growth.
1300 766 198 | info@beautypay.com.au
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MEMBERPROFILE
Mason & Young A new business model with a difference IN today’s business world there are two kinds of achievers — those whose aim is to achieve success through noteworthy financial gain and those who become successful by prioritising to bring value and making a difference to the lives of others. Claire Mason definitely belongs to the latter category. She is a unique and highly innovative individual and professional with a big heart. Her passion for perfection always carries the trademark of integrity and excellence in all that she undertakes. Always seeking to introduce a new level of care to her clients, her clinic — Integrity Paramedical Skin Practitioners, located in Brisbane’s Upper Mount Gravatt, offers uniquely different, high-quality paramedical and medical-grade procedures that address a broad range of skin concerns that also take into account the individual’s health and wellbeing. This commitment has resulted in making Integrity Paramedical Skin Practitioners one of the State’s most reputable and successful skin clinics. Further researching into her clients’ and patients’ needs, Claire expanded her vision to introduce a new concept to the “Integrity” business model. This resulted in the recent launch of Mason & Young – a new concept store that is located side-byside with Paramedical Skin Practitioners. We recently caught up with Claire and asked her to share some details about her new launch.
APJ Q1. CLAIRE, CONGRATULATIONS ON THE LAUNCH OF YOUR NEW CONCEPT STORE. WHILE INTEGRITY PARAMEDICAL SKIN PRACTITIONERS IS HIGHLY SUCESSFUL, WHAT MOTIVATED YOU TO MAKE THIS MOVE? Mason & Young is a destination and online resource showcasing Australian luxury, skin, health and wellness products. The new store is not replacing Integrity Paramedical Skin Practitioners, but rather it is an adjunct concept introducing current clients and the public to quality products that are carefully selected to deliver benefits that support APJ 66
the health and wellbeing of the user, while offering clients an amazing experience. The concept was born out of my observation of the high level of toxicity and inflammation that many of our clients were presenting. While the causes of these were varied from health issues, stress, environmental issues etc., I felt there was a need to introduce a comprehensive range of topical and lifestyle products that can support and are beneficial to our health. And so, Mason & Young was born as a concept store, both as a physical store as well as an on-line store. All our products must meet specific criteria. They must have proven purity and efficacy and they must be Australian-made. Each item must ensure that it can deliver positive change to our body and help improve the quality of our overall health and wellbeing. Products have been handpicked for their exceptional quality and are either certified organic, natural, ethical and cruelty free, or encompasses all of these considerations. While Mason & Young is in separate premises to Integrity, the two businesses however, merge into one foyer. Integrity has seven treatment rooms and comprises ¾ of the premises. In the clinic we use clinical-strength products such as DMK, while at Mason & Young our clients are immersed into beautiful, healthy and sensory elements that give them a different experience.
APJ Q2. WHAT SPECIFIC ELEMENTS HAVE YOU INTEGRATED INTO YOUR NEW CONCEPT? Both concepts have their own approach — to improve the skin and support the health of the body. However, Integrity focuses on our services, while Mason & Young cross-educates on how to best support your body by lowering the chemical load. There is a difference in looking good and looking healthy. Currently there is a swing towards ageing gracefully. While makeup and certain skin-improvement ingredients can give you the illusion of looking better they may not be correcting the homeostasis of the skin.
In fact, in terms of skin health, they can have a detrimental effect on the skin. At Mason & Young we also host educational and community events with quality speakers and presenters who share their wealth of knowledge in a fun, celebrative environment. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s all about creating a community environment that supports health and wellbeing, while also imparting a pleasurable and enjoyable experience.
APJ Q3. HOW DID YOU TRANSITION TO THE NEW CONCEPT? WERE THERE ANY RISKS AND HOW DID YOU OVERCOME THEM? The transition was actually very smooth as I am such a planner, but of course there were challenges â&#x20AC;&#x201D; the acquisition of the property and developing a new brand from scratch was quite a task, however, as I chose to work with high calibre people, both for our design concept and our architects, the completion of the project was on time. There was not even one day lost, even though the last two weeks were quite stressful. Regardless, it was worth it and it was so exciting to be able to achieve our goals. It is so important not to compromise and in staying true to your vision. My design team have been phenomenal. It is so important to choose the right people who understand your objectives and with whom you can professionally negotiate the whole process.
APJ Q4. LOOKING AT YOUR OWN PERSONAL AND PROFESSIONAL JOURNEY, WERE THERE ANY DEFINING MOMENTS THAT CONTRIBUTED TO YOU MAKING THE MOVE TO LAUNCH THE NEW CONCEPT? I have to say that identifying the frequency and intensity of inflammation present in so many individuals that we were treating was quite alarming. I realised that this was quite an epidemic and I wanted to provide solutions through simple strategies and products that could help support the body better
and lower the chemical overload that was contributing to this problem. This realisation, coupled with the fact that I have always had a dream to create a concept store that reflected my values and my mission to help people improve their wellbeing were the two main contributing factors. Finally, last year I felt it was the right time to make the move and to make my dream a reality.
APJ Q5. ARE YOU INTRODUCING NEW TREATMENTS TO THE CLINIC, OR ARE YOU EVOLVING WHAT YOU DID PREVIOUSLY BUT BETTER? As I mentioned above, Mason & Young provide products not treatments, however, with the introduction of the store we have also upgrade several of our treatments at Integrity. We have redesigned our service menu, which is not a menu as such, however the update reflects the introduction of new treatment options. Last year we introduced some new innovative equipment and lasers that have amazing new capabilities and can deliver remarkable results in tattoo removal and revitalising the skin without any downtime. We have being redefining our niche on who we are and what we can offer consumers and I believe we are actually ahead of global trends, which is very exciting both for us and our clients.
APJ Q6. HOW HAVE THE STAFF AND YOUR CLIENTS RESPONDED TO THE CHANGES? Our staff totally love the changes. It has given them a new working environment. They now have their own kitchen and dining room, which they absolutely love. The concept store is also drawing new clients, as well as expanding the client experience for our existing clients. Our clients are delighted to explore the offerings in Mason & Young where they can experience beautiful smells, colours and products that offer goodness and a luxurious experience.
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APLJ Q7: WHAT ADVICE WOULD YOU GIVE BUSINESS OWNERS ABOUT FACING THEIR CHALLENGES? At some stage every individual and business owner will experience challenges and be faced with horrible obstacles that may cause them a great deal of grief and pain. That is a fact of life. However, we all need to identify ways to overcome whatever we have to face that is getting in our way of succeeding in our business. It is important to have a clear vision and passion for what you want to achieve. It is also important not to fall into a negative mindset, and to never, ever compare yourself with others. Everyone has the right to be
whom they want to be and determine what they want to bring to the community through their business model. Facing life with purpose and integrity will pay off in the long-run, so stay true to yourself. We trust that Claire Masonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s story has inspired you to stay committed to your purpose and never give up on your dreams. MASON & YOUNG 07 3349 1113 hello@masonandyoung.com www.masonandyoung.com
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UPCOMING INTERNATIONAL AESTHETIC EVENTS APRIL 5-7
Aesthetic and Anti-Aging Medicine World Congress
MAY 22-23
China Beauty Expo
MAY 28
APAN Aesthetics Conference
JUNE 4-5
Professional Beauty Delhi
JUNE 10
Professional Beauty Belfast
JUNE 23-25
International Beauty Show
Grimaldi Forum 10, av. Princesse Grace, Monaco T: +33 (0)1 56 83 78 00 F: +33 (0)1 56 83 78 05 www.euromedicom.com
APRIL 22-23
The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa 1101 Arch St Philadelphia, PA T: +1 305 443-2322 F: +1 305 443-1664 registration@lneonline.com
APRIL 28-30
The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa 2301 S. King Drive Chicago, USA T: +1 305 443-2322 F: +1 305 443-1664 registration@lneonline.com
MAY 6-7
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The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa Arlington Convention Center Arlington, Texas T: +1 305 443-2322 F: +1 305 443-1664 registration@lneonline.com
Pudong Shanghai Shanghai New International Exhibition Center +86 21 2326 3739 service@chinabeautyexpo.com
Mantra Legends Hotel 25 Laycock St, Surfers Paradise QLD 07 5593 0360 info@apanetwork.com
Pragati Maidan, Delhi, India +91 22 61713232 reg@professionalbeauty.in
Belfast Waterfront +44 (0) 207 351 0536 info@professionalbeauty.co.uk
Las Vegas Convention Center 3150 Paradise Rd, Las Vegas, NV +1 877.398.6938 https://www.ibslasvegas.com
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EDUCATION
ACHIEVING OUTSTANDING SKIN TREATMENT RESULTS AND
THE POWER OF KNOWLEDGE Are you seeking to solve skin problems such as pigmentation, acne and other skin disorders and gain the trust of current and future clients? Then stepping up your knowledge is the most credible way to achieve this. Gay Wardle presents how you can achieve this. THERE is nothing like a strong reputation for results as a foolproof way to achieve business growth and client loyalty. Here we ask Gay Wardle to share with us some fundamental education on skin biology and physiology that will uncover the most vital knowledge you will need in solving the more challenging skin conditions.
APJ 1: PLEASE EXPLAIN TO US THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN THE ROLE OF COLLAGEN AND ELASTIN IN THE SKIN. WHAT ARE THE SYMPTOMS OF THEIR DEGENERATION AND HOW WOULD YOU TREAT THEM DIFFERENTLY? Collagen fibres are very strong and resist pulling forces, which allows tissue flexibility. We have many different types of collagen fibres in our body that vary from tissue to tissue. The collagen fibres found in cartilage, for example, attract more water molecules than those in bone which gives the cartilage a cushioning effect. Collagen is a protein which is the most abundant in our body, representing about 25% of the total amount found in our body. In fact, collagen is actually a complex family of 18 proteins 11 are present in the dermis. Very fine collagen bundles with a coating of glycoprotein are found in reticular fibres. These reticular fibres support the walls of blood vessels and form a network around the cells in some tissues such as the areolar connective tissue, adipose tissue and smooth muscle tissue. The fibroblast cells produce reticular fibres, which are thinner than collagen fibres, these fibres help form the basement membrane. Type I collagen makes up approximately 80% of the dermal matrix. Type I collagen is abundant during our youth and growing years, however, sadly there is considerable decrease in collagen I in photo-aged skin and ageing skin. The collagen thickens and becomes more fibrous as we age.
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Type III collagen is approximately 15% present in the dermis. Type III collagen has a smaller diameter, which creates much smaller bundles than type I allowing for more skin flexibility. During embryonic stages type III is more predominate around the blood vessels and in the epidermis. Type IV collagen is found in the fascia septa and type V collagen creates approximately 5% of the matrix. On the other hand, elastin fibres are smaller in diameter than collagen fibres. They branch and join together to form a network within a tissue. Elastin is also a protein, which is surround by a glycoprotein called fibrillin that adds strength and stability. Because of their unique molecular structure, elastic fibres are very strong and can be stretched up to 150% of their relaxed length without breaking. Once stretched elastin has the ability to return to their original shape after the stretching is completed. We find elastin in the skin, blood vessel walls and lung tissue - areas where expansion is important. Elastin develops during foetal stages of life and is maximised close to birth. Looking at the distribution of elastin we find that 3% constitutes the dry weight of skin, 7% is found in the lungs, 30% make up major blood vessels and approximately 50% is found in ligaments. Elastin is produced from tropoelastin in the fibroblast cell as well as endothelial cells and vascular smooth muscle cells. As with collagen there are different forms of elastin throughout the body. The covalent binding of collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid creates a three-dimensional structure that becomes impaired with ageing. In order to have youngerlooking skin as we age these elements become a high focus when treating skins. With environmental exposure combined with intra-body ageing
collagen and elastin fibres are degraded somewhat with their own enzymes. The organelles lysosomes play an integral part in protecting protein from these enzymes. Signs of deteriorating elastin and collagen will be lax, saggy skin, wrinkles and thinning skin that can appear visually thick. Along with this we see pigment changes, telangiectasia, changes to secretions in the skin and age-related lesions. Vertical lines normally represent collagen deterioration and horizontal lines represent elastin deterioration with early signs being detected in the eye region. Both elastin and collagen play an integral part in wound repair hence clinical treatments that are provided often create inflammation. The options are brilliant provided the skin is healthy enough to respond. The many options for treating both collagen and elastin deterioration, which include actives being topically applied and both non-inflammatory and inflammatory treatments such as needling, laser, RF and many more. All of these treatment options require a complete and comprehensive understanding of the condition that is being treated â&#x20AC;&#x201D; comprehensive skin assessments are therefore crucial.
APJ. 2: HOW CAN ADVANCED TRAINING IN SKIN BIOLOGY HELP A THERAPIST ADDRESS THE PROBLEM OF PIGMENTATION DIFFERENTLY? HOW IS THE APPROACH DIFFERENT? Most often we put pigmentation into two categories environmental and hormonal. When it comes to environmental the blame is directed mainly at UV exposure and yes, that is a major cause, but identifying the sequence of events will give us a greater understanding to the condition. UV increases reactive oxygen species (ROS), which in turn has an effect on DNA, it also increases enzyme activity within the cell that darkens melanosomes. I think all too often in a consultation process comment is made that UV caused the pigment. When we understand the pathways, it gives therapists the ability to demonstrate how the UV causes damage that causes pigmentation. The explanations will build confidence with the client that will lead to stronger commitment towards treatment programs.
APJ 3: WHAT ARE LANGERHANS CELLS AND WHERE ARE THEY LOCATED? WHAT IS THEIR SIGNIFICANCE TO SKIN HEALTH AND HOW CAN THIS KNOWLEDGE BENEFIT A THERAPIST WHO IS PERFORMING A TREATMENT? Langerhans cells are dendritic cells of the skin and mucosa, and contain organelles called Birbeck granules. They are present in all layers of the epidermis and are most prominent in the stratum spinosum. They also occur in the papillary dermis, particularly around blood vessels. Langerhan cells are immune cells that are derived from the bone marrow and migrate to the epidermis. As a dendritic cell they communicate with cells of the epidermis and dermis and specialise in antigen presentation in the immune system. This clever little cell acquires antigens in peripheral tissues to transport them to regional lymph nodes, present to T-cells and initiate an adaptive immune response. Langerhan cells have strong immunogenic properties and are involved in antimicrobial immunity, skin immino-surveillance, induction phase of the contact hypersensitivity and in the pathogenesis of chronic inflammatory diseases of the skin or mucosa. These cells are greatly affected by heat related treatments and strong exposure to UV. They migrate to the dermis in these instances, returning later when the heat has regressed. Failure of the mechanism of anger cells could result in chronic inflammatory skin conditions like lupus, psoriasis and other skin diseases. In some cases, the body produces far too many Langerhan cells that can lead to a condition called Langerhans cell histiocytosis. Histiocytosis is a term used to describe diseases that result
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When we are talking about hormonal pigmentation, that is a different ball game. What hormonal pathways are creating the pigmentation? Is it stress related? Is it stimulated by medications? Has it been created because of disease such as diabetes, or has it happened because of other inflammatory conditions occurring in the body? Is it diet related? Is it an immune disorder? It could be a pulmonary disorder. The list is a very comprehensive one that often occurs because of multi- facets of anyone of these conditions. Not to mention selfinfliction reasons, such as smoking and other substance abuse. Post-inflammatory pigmentation is also a very comprehensive skin disorder. To correctly diagnose any skin disorder and pigmentation being right up there, you need to have advanced knowledge of the cells, the body systems and their functions. Without this knowledge, you really are stabbing in the dark. Knowledge of skin cells has come so far in the last 10 or so years and we are learning all the time how these gorgeous little cells function. To look at a skin that has pigmentation and diagnose a treatment plan without identifying the origin would really be malpractice. Advanced skin biology will give the practitioner knowledge to diagnose the conditions and design an effective treatment with confidence.
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from overproduction of white blood cells. One of the conditions we would see from this condition would be lymphoma. The condition often occurs with people who smoke. Because the immune system is so relevant to treatments that are performed in clinics, it is of prime importance that we understand the function of these cells and their reaction they will have to inflammation. REMEMBER that Langerhan cells have the job of antigen presentation, the skin’s most important immune function. It is absolutely important we maintain the health of the lymphatic system by performing manual lymphatic drainage in our programs.
APJ 4: WHY IS GUT HEALTH IMPORTANT TO SKIN HEALTH AND CAN YOU SUGGEST HOW IMPROVING GUT HEALTH CAN BENEFIT A SKIN TREATMENT OUTCOME? We are now learning a great deal more about the association the gut has to the brain and the skin. When the gut is dehydrated it causes all sorts of internal inflammatory conditions, which will in turn cause skin disorders. Inflammation of the gut can also be caused by stress. As far back as 1916 a study demonstrated acne patients were more likely to show enhanced reactivity to bacterial strains isolated from stools. It showed 66% of the 57 subjects with acne in the study showed positive reactivity to stool-isolated bacteria compared to none of the control patients without active skin disease. In a more recent study involving 80 subjects, those with acne
had higher levels of reactivity to lipopolysaccharide endotoxins in the blood. Interestingly that both studies showed that an increase in intestinal permeability was an issue for a significant number of acne patients. We know that the main function of the skin is to act as a physical, chemical and antimicrobial barrier defence system. There have been significant studies that show both stress and gut inflammation can impair the protective function of the epidermal barrier function, by having an effect to the cell membrane. The effects of this will disrupt and decrease the antimicrobial peptides that are produced in the skin, hence this can increase infection and inflammation in the skin. Substance P is released when there is any change to the gut microbiota, which has an effect on both the gut and the skin. Gut microbiota has a huge influence on lipids and tissue fatty acid profiles therefore may influence sebum production as well as the fatty acid composition of the sebum. A study completed in China involving subjects with seborrheic dermatitis also found that there were disruptions to the normal gut flora. Impairment to the immune system will weaken the microbiome, which will increase the growth of opportunistic bacteria, yeast, fungus and maybe parasites. The immune system is an integral part to having a healthy skin. There has also been links to the gut with diabetes. Diabetes increases ageing of the skin, increases glycation and has a huge impact on the health of the mitochondria. All of these conditions will have advanced intrinsic ageing where there is degradation in collagen and elastin. They will also have an impact on muscle tissue causing atrophy to muscle and subcutaneous tissue. We could therefore safely say common diseases such as psoriasis, eczema and dermatitis will have a microbiome and inflammatory component to them. If we have inflammation to the gut, the lymphatic system, the nervous system and the endocrine system will all be affected in some way. All of these systems will then have an impact on how healthy the skin is or isn’t. There is so much more we could add to this answer and so much more to learn about the gut and its relation to the skin. Having a healthy gut when treating any skin condition is a very important place to start. You need to ask about the digestive system in the evaluation process. Find out how often they go to the toilet, do they often suffer from constipation or diarrhea? Do they pass unprocessed food? I believe we should have our clients on a gut program such as a digestive enzyme when treating them. We need to reduce the inflammation otherwise the skin conditions will continue to reoccur. We need to be eating fermented foods regularly. Gut disorders increase disease and increases skin disorders. Do you have a gut program in your practice? If not, it could be the missing link to helping you sustain skin improvement with 100 your treatments. APJ 95
If you wish to enroll in Gay Wardle’s Advanced Skin Analysis Training 75 please contact: GAY WARDLE 25 gay@skinology.com.au 0418 708 455 5 www.gaywardle.com.au 0
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APJ 73
HIGHEREDUCATION
TERTIARY QUALIFICATIONS
AND THE FUTURE OF AESTHETICS By Carmen Perkins, Program Director, Aesthetics, Torrens University Australia
PREDICTIONS, based on statistical figures both globally and here in Australia, indicate that the growth in consumer demand for personal care services and premium cosmetic sector will continue to experience robust growth. Additionally, the forecast is that consumer expectations will go beyond skin and facial improvement to body shaping and wellness. New technologies are constantly breaking new ground in treatment possibilities. Furthermore, new techniques are targeting the dermis improving collagen integrity and bringing skin rejuvenation to a whole new level. These breakthroughs in technology are providing amazing solutions for body shaping and toning, bringing new opportunities for business growth. As a result of these advances the knowledgelevel of practitioners is now required to be much higher. This is where a Bachelor of Health Science (Aesthetics) can best support both the rising industry standards, as well as meet the demands of consumer expectations. Torrens University is keeping up with advancements in the industry and are always working at having the most up-to-date technologies available for their students to work with. Recently, they introduced the CLATUU 360 to their range of body equipment. This is an exciting and innovative piece of technology available as part of the Bachelor of Health Science (Aesthetics). The CLATUU 360 is the most technologically advanced system in the market today to remove unwanted body fat. It uses a controlled cooling process that destroys fat cells, but has no effect on normal cells. This is a highly effective, non-invasive way to get rid of stubborn body fat. Torrensâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Bachelor of Health Science (Aesthetics) students are also instructed in other anti-ageing dermal modalities to provide personalised, targeted, resultsoriented and scientifically proven treatments embedded with an in-depth knowledge of health science.
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A NEW ACADEMIC STANDARD Torrens University believes education should reflect the realities of an evolving industry, as well as provide the skills for critical thinking and global perspectives in the approach we take within the treatment environment. Integrating relevant insights and the desired skill sets through their active conversations with industry has allowed Torrens to develop a dynamic qualification for the evolving and changing needs of the modern workplace where more advanced clinical results are increasingly required by the discerning consumer. This industry need has contributed to the development of the Bachelor of Health Science (Aesthetics) which is already gaining great popularity. With strong academic units as well as a comprehensive practicum component this qualification offers the graduate the ability to face the future with greater skills, knowledge and confidence and pursue a successful career in aesthetics. This qualification is also available to qualified beauty therapists or nurses who wish to increase and extend their current skills and knowledge through a tertiary level qualification in aesthetics and dermal therapies allowing them to expand their professional scope and career possibilities for a brighter future. The Bachelor of Health Science (Aesthetics) has been carefully designed in consultation with industry professionals to ensure it meets with the growing needs of salons and clinics enabling them to access industry-ready graduates that are able to support their current and future business growth.
OUR QUALITY ASSURANCE While the vocational sector offers sound qualification, the units within a tertiary qualification, such as the Bachelor of Health Science (Aesthetics) offer a more comprehensive and stronger academic framework that also includes several clinical, health and wellness units equipping the graduate to offer salons and clinic the ability to extend their scope of service and provide more advanced clinical outcomes. In Australia, tertiary qualifications are overseen by a national regulatory and quality agency for higher education â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the Tertiary Education Quality and Standards Agency (TEQSA). The Australian Government established TEQSA to monitor quality and regulate university and non-university higher education providers against a set of standards developed by the independent Higher Education Standards Panel.
WHAT YOU CAN EXPECT FROM OUR GRADUATES Graduates of the Bachelor of Health Science (Aesthetics) will bring a new level of critical thinking and problem solving to their practice. Their depth-of- knowledge will allow them to assess client and patient needs through a new understanding of pathophysiology that will enable them to achieve more advanced clinical outcomes.
For further information on the Bachelor of Health Science (Aesthetics) Torrens University Australia | 1300 575 803 | enquiries@torrens.edu.au www.torrens.edu.au/courses/health/bachelor-of-health-science-aesthetics
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APJ 75
SKINTREATMENTS
THE EVOLUTION OF THREADS FOR FACE LIFTING By Terry Everitt
THE aim of this article by Terry Everitt, is to provide an overview of the popular cosmetic procedure involving thread lifting.
accelerate this process, along with some regression of bone structure.
Did you know that the face can be described as a ‘beauty triangle’? In younger years this triangular shape of the face is a ‘V’ shape. The line from the forehead passes through the cheekbones and at the chin, forms the apex of the triangle.
Your treatments restore the skin to its youthful glow and treating the skin with various skin tightening technologies will help, but does not affect the internal causative factors.
As we age, this triangle reverses and resembles more of an ‘A’ shape. The apex of the beauty triangle is now the forehead and the base the extended line of the ‘jowls’. This phenomenon is due to several factors, gravity being a major cause resulting in ptosis (or drooping) of the skin, as well as the underlaying structures. These include the drop of adipose tissue, the skin’s loss of elasticity creating wrinkles and folds and the melting of the fatty and muscle tissue that
Traditionally the surgical rhytidectomy (face lift) was the option to get a lifting of the facial structures to restore the ‘V’ shape of the facial triangle. As much as the rhytidectomy has undergone many variations to move the procedure far from the original techniques, so has an alternative option been refined along the years — that of tensor or suspension threads.
THE REVOLUTION OF THREADS The manufacturing of threads has undergone quite a revolution. The first threads used for facelifting were sutures made of polyglactin 910, Gore-Tex or Vicryl, materials almost unheard of now. The earlier threads were of nonabsorbable polypropylene that remained in the dermal tissue of the patient. This offered re-tensioning the threads by pulling up the thread occasionally to obtain a new lifting effect without having to implant new threads. The downside was that the top of the threads were external, thus the protrusions of the threads were frequently noticeable. Other complications were numbness in the region and granulomas, as a reaction to the threads being a foreign body, thus initiating an inflammatory response. One of the earlier successful threads was the APTOS® (Anti-ptosis sub-dermal suspension). Made of non-resorbable polypropylene and the techniques in the
APJ 76
use of such, reported by Sulamanidez et al (2002), who further published a paper in 2009 outlining 10 years of their experience using the Aptos technique (Sulamanidez & Sulamanidez 2009). Interestingly, Sulamanidez is the international patent holder of Aptos® threads, which have been refined and further developed over the years and come under various trade names. Things have moved on from the earlier threads and while non-absorbable threads are still available, the current threads are made of biomaterials that are fully absorbed once they have played their regenerating and tensioning role. These generally are made of either polydioxanone (PDO) or L-polylactic acid (LPA), or polycaprolactone (PCA) as the main component. PDO has been used in surgery as sutures and is naturally biodegraded by the body over a period of six to eight months. Technical advances in the formulations have made this material absorb at a slower rate, thus giving a longer efficacy. Threads made of LPA lasted longer than the earlier PDO, resorbed after approximately 12 months and the treatment effect has a duration of up to 18 -24 months.
As these biodegradable threads are naturally reabsorbed through dissolution in biological fluids, they increase procollagen production, thereby increase collagen structural components along with a reactive fibrosis around the hooks or cones, which perpetuates the results beyond their resorption. Most people refer to threads by their trade names, which can confuse the issue. Names such as Gortex, Aptos, Excellence, Nova, Contour and Silhouette, as examples. The most frequent corrections using threads are performed on the face and in the neck area to: •
Raise the entire length of sagging eyebrows
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Lift the cheeks and cheekbones
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Mitigate jowls, nasolabial folds, or sagging in the neck
•
Raise the upper lip
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Platysmal relaxation (vertical and horizontal)
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Redefine the oval shape of the face.
BARBS, COGS, KNOTS AND CONES Threads can be a continuous straight thread, although many have hooks along the thread. Others have cones, while others have barbs (also known as cogs or knots). All these little ‘bumps’ on the thread are used to anchor the thread on insertion and to create a slightly bigger fibrotic response, holding the thread in place and being able to have more tensile strength. There are three main types of threads used; mono, cog and screw threads. Mono threads are smooth without barbs and are anchored to a point on the face or the scalp. They mainly tighten the skin and provide a small amount of lift. Cog threads have barbs which hook onto the tissue to provide support and lift the sagging tissue. Screw threads have one or two intertwined threads around the needle and provide good volume restoration to sunken areas of the skin (Wong et al 2017).
APJ 77
All are useful and although with technical differences that may help an indication, generally the use of which type of thread is best depends on personal preference of the practitioner.
lifting, yet most facial thread work requires no surgery, only injection technique and frequently seen as cosmetic medicine rather than cosmetic surgery.
The variations of non-linear threads need to be place deeper, so they can attach to the superficial muscular aponeurosis; if placed superficially then dimpling can occur in the skin. Until recently, it was only one thread attached to one needle, however now it is possible to have double thread and the multi thread innovations can contain up to ten plain threads.
RESULTS Initially a lifting effect is noticed yet the real results take a while to become apparent. This is a result of collagen synthesis which is noticed for 6-12 months. Additionally, the fibrosis around the threads cones or barbs maintain the lift for 12-18 months, although many patients have longer lasting results than this. This treatment is therefore temporary and must be renewed to maintain the result, as per the patient requests. Threads can be used with neuromuscular relaxants, Plasma Rich Protein, dermal fillers and even micro-needling. What is not done, is heat generation. No IPL/LASER/RF for approximately 12 weeks as the heat may cause distortion of the threads.
Selection of models and brands of threads commonly used in the treatment of facial ptosis (Alcolea & Trelles 2017)
TECHNIQUE While there are many variations and personal preferences, the basic technique involves local anaesthetic at the entry and exit points. Using a thin needle or a small cannula (which is attached to the thread in a sterile pack). The threads are placed under the skin, following marking on the skin made prior with dermographic pencil. The thread is then anchored on the dermis by exerting a slight manual upward pull. Gentle palpation is used to ‘embed’ the cones, barbs if using this type of thread. Frequently, the top of the thread is tied in a small knot and left under the incision. The incisions have a suture, or some closure applied. Multiple threads can be used as required. The whole procedure taking a few minutes to 30 minutes dependant on the number of threads used. Threads can be positioned in different planes — superficially in the dermis, or deeper in the SMAS, or deeper still in the muscles. The SMAS (Superficial muscular aponeurotic system) is equivalent to the fascia superficialis in the rest of the body, and acts as a border between the subdermal, superficial adipose (fat cells) and the deeper adipose tissue. A technique over the last few years is the use of both barbed and plain (non-barbed) mono-threads in a cross hatched mesh network of threads that promote a multi-directional scaffold for the fibrous bonding and bridging to occur between and around all the threads. As with any technique involving skin penetration, a few local reactions are possible — bruises, slight oedema, erythema, sensation of skin tightness on the treated areas, small skin folds in front of the ear and a slight asymmetry post-procedure. These are all transitory and resolve within a few hours or a few days. The cost is dependant on the type and amount of thread used, doctors experience and such. Generally, around $2500-4000. Threads may be a surgical procedure, particularly in body APJ 78
While we have only explored threads in terms of facial use, they are frequently used in body surgery, particularly for gluteal (butt) lifts, breast reconstruction and abdominoplasty as examples.
COMPLICATIONS Most complications of the absorbable thread lifting are minor and easily remedied. Side effects are expected and not thought of as complications, such as swelling, bruising, tenderness, which all resolve in hours or a day or two. Dimples may develop however most cases resolve spontaneously, or can be managed by manual reduction (i.e. massaging around the dimple to move adipose tissue). Superficial placement of the thread or non-uniformity of the tension primarily causes these. Thread exposure is caused by migration of the thread to superficial layer and repeated inflammation reaction, which may require removal and replacement. Asymmetry may develop and generally rectified with additional thread placement to make even.
CONCLUSION Today, the implantation of resorbable threads is a temporary and reversible soft technique that gives a natural ‘lift’ effect. The popularity of threads is due to the ease of insertion, consistent reproducible and sustainable results, minor side effects and very low complication rate. The choice and implantation of permanent, or resorbable threads are not competing solutions, as each have their place. The choice is the result of the threads themselves, personal preference of the experienced practitioner in both the science and art of threads, increased clinical application and, as always, the correct selection of patient. APJ Terry Everitt brings extensive knowledge in the area of aesthetics, skincare ingredients and cosmetic medicine. A regular participant at medical conference, presenter and chairperson, Terry article are always, scientifically sound and comprehensive. Terry Everitt can be contacted at aestheticeducators@gmail.com
For a list of references, please contact the editor.
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! Must be a current financial member of APAN ! Government-Approved qualification in Cosmetic Tattooing
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So if you are a Cosmetic Tattooist and are committed to high standards of educational excellence and best practice, consider joining APAN and become a member of CTARP and be recognised among Australia's leading Cosmetic Tattoo Practitioners. APAN.page | @apanetwork APJ 79
STARPERFORMER
SPECTRUM LAUNCES
SUCCESS ACADEMY
To help Australian Beauty Clinics Grow
Tina Viney speaks with Ben Skeggs, Managing Director of Spectrum Science and Beauty about the company’s new venture. OVER the years after working with and seeing business owners struggling to stay up-to-date with the latest technology, skills and knowledge to grow their businesses, we decided to come up with a practical solution. Qualified with a Bachelor of Commerce, Master of Business and working all over the world including New York City, Ben Skeggs has learnt the tools to grow a business. His continued relationships with industry experts from marketing, operations through to sales, allows him to provide businesses with up-to-date information on staying current and competitive. Now, Ben has decided to bring these skills and knowledge together to help Spectrum customers grow their businesses. Spectrum Success Academy Spectrum has announced its plan to launch the Spectrum Success Academy created to support businesses with training and appropriate strategies and tools on how to grow their business. The academy will be launched in stages and will be a game-changer for salon owners in Australia. “The Spectrum Success Academy will be available exclusively for Spectrum customers as part of Spectrum’s philosophy of providing customers with a Blueprint to Success,” Ben said. The system, tools, training and support will enable business owners to not only grow their business profitability, but also develop personal skill-sets in marketing and sales.
APJ 80
The Spectrum Success Academy will allow business owners to gain the knowledge on the specific areas that they wish to improve their growth and performance. They will be able to achieve this through a strong foundation of knowledge in marketing, sales, operations, business tips, customer experience and more. Beauty business owners can at any time login into the Spectrum Success Academy and learn how they can implement new business and marketing strategies such as: •
How to sell better
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How to run a local campaign
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How to create video content and live stream
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How to create effective Facebook advertisements
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Tools to quickly and easily create business images including marketing materials, eBooks, social media images and advertisements
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Learn how to package for the bigger sale and many more.
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COSMETICTATTOOING
MICROBLADING AKA “FEATHER TOUCH EYEBROWS”
TRENDS AND TIPS FOR QUALITY RESULTS
By Corinna Calori and Kym Hopkins of THink Aesthetics Editorial Review by Katherine McCann WHAT is happening in the microblading industry? There are many new entrants, new techniques, new pigments, new equipment, new training and emerging trends. Where is it headed and what will be ‘on trend’ and ‘best practice’ in the years ahead for this modality? We’ll take a look, show you what’s new and what’s been around for years and recycled, and provide insights into getting consistently great results. The explosion of interest in eyebrow microblading in recent years has been both exciting and concerning. Some expert technicians deliver amazing results that earn the eyebrow owner compliments every day, and some technicians should be seeking better training. There is as much variation in skill, knowledge and training standards in the industry as there is in the techniques and equipment available. Cosmetic tattooing is an unregulated industry (APJ December 2017, p.80-82) and therefore the quality of work and how it is delivered has no fixed benchmarks, apart from meeting local council infection control standards for skin penetration. Some may see this as attractive, but the reality is the industry reputation is at stake, and nowhere more so than with microblading.
Would you trust the way you look to someone with this level of investment in their techniques and treatments? We think not. The hand-tool is in itself very basic and designed to hold the blade at the correct angle in a comfortable position for the technician. There are many different styles and brands of hand-tool and most of the choice comes down to personal preference. The trend is towards disposable hand-tools to avoid the need for autoclave sterilisation. Finding the right quality, style and comfort level is an individual thing. The microblades themselves comprise of multiple very fine prongs, in a wide variety of styles and shapes. 7-point (7 prong) and 12 prong flat blades are popular. The blade is set on an angle and applied flat on the client’s skin. Other styles include round needle clusters and a double line/blade. Most of these are used for shading. A U-shaped flat blade is preferred by some technicians for a variable angle of contact with the skin
FEATHER STROKE VERSUS MICROBLADING In fact, we should be talking about feather stroke, or hair stroke eyebrows as opposed to microblading, as these describe the result, whereas microblading describes the technique. The intended result is to simulate hairs within a brow shape and density that suits the client. Microblade refers to the fine blade held in a hand tool and used to slice the skin and implant pigment. The same and arguably better-quality results can be obtained using precision digital machines. The financial incentive to specifically follow the microblading path is easy to understand. Buy a few cheap hand tools and blades, a few pigments and other necessities, and you have the basics. Some ‘technicians’ even decide that training on YouTube is adequate before offering their services to real people.
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Microblades are now commonly in disposable hand tools
The blades slice the skin and the pigment that is held around and between the prongs is placed in the skin. Different techniques are employed by some technicians. “Embroidery” (an older term sometimes used to describe microblading in general), involving picking up the skin and driving the pigment in on a 45-degree angle to get better retention. The ‘soft tap’ method is a more, gentle version of this. However, both techniques may also be done with a machine. Not all techniques are designed to simulate individual hairs. There are a range of techniques that provide overall pigmentation and density, such as with powder, or block brows. The technique may involve either a hand tool or machine. The time-consuming process of producing block colour can be achieved with a hand tool using the “pointillism” technique using a multi-pronged round or long needle and a vertical tapping action. It can be delivered much more efficiently using a digital machine.
ARTISTICALLY DESIGNED Of course, before any work is done on the eyebrows they need to be designed. For many technicians this can be a big challenge, particularly if they are not artistically-inclined and dimensions and calculations become critical. Marking out the ends of the brows and the height of the arch has common reference points based on what is normal for attractive features. In the diagram of critical measurement, ‘golden rules’ of the main eyebrow dimensions are shown. As examples, line 1) below, shows the inner limit of the brow that should line up vertically with the nostril, and the top of the arch (line 2) should align with the middle of the eye pupil (with normal dilation) in a younger person and the outer edge of the eye pupil in a more mature person.
‘GOLDEN RULE’ - MEASUREMENTS There is a large range of stencils and guides on the market that can greatly assist technicians. Most importantly, once the brow shape is marked up on the client, check and double check that they are happy with it. At this point documentation and a signature may be good insurance. While this article is primarily about feather stroke brows, the skin type of the client may guide the technician to recommend block or powder brows. As a basic principle, an oily skin will not be well suited to feather stroke as the pigment is more likely to ‘blur’, including patches caused by active sebaceous glands. Some technicians perform a detailed skin evaluation, including the Fitzpatrick skin rating and skin thickness. The client also needs to be very closely involved in the selection of colour, working very closely with the technician, whose knowledge of pigments, warm and cool tones and how they will heal in the skin becomes vital in achieving the desired longterm outcome.
Feather stroke brows immediately before and after the treatment
SELECTING THE RIGHT PIGMENT There is an almost bewildering array of pigments now on the market, with technicians often keen to try anything new. In an investigation conducted by THink Aesthetics of the composition of over 260 different pigments from eight manufacturers, there were surprisingly, only 33 different colourants, plus distilled water, sterilising alcohol, smoothing agents and preservatives. This covers the full range of pigments from jet black eyeliner, every shade of brown through to rose red lip pigment, plus various exotic blues and greens. You would be correct in thinking that a lot of pigments from different manufacturers are very similar. We could spend a whole article talking about pigment types, but whether we are discussing feather stroke eyebrows, eyeliner or lips, the biggest question is usually whether to use inorganic or organic pigments. Simply put, inorganic pigments are mainly based on minerals, or metal oxides, and organic pigments are synthetic carbon-based compounds (not environmentally friendly products of the earth). All pigments were inorganic, apart from vegetable-based dyes (that have no place in a cosmetic tattoo), until some manufacturers started using complex synthetic chemicals to expand the colour range, or because they were unable to meet European standards for purity with inorganic pigments. At the moment, surprisingly, there are no “set standards for pigments in Australia”, New Zealand, has adopted the European Union guidelines as a base. For now, when choosing a pigment range, look for a reputable established manufacturer that shows the pigment composition on the bottle, and is able to supply safety information for the pigment (usually a Material Safety Data Sheet). If they don’t or won’t, you have to ask yourself what they are hiding. Not all pigments should be considered safe. With organic pigments there is a lot greater chance of them being unsafe. The EU has published a list of pigment colourants that are considered Carcinogenic, Mutagenic or Reprotoxic. Reputable manufacturers and suppliers should be ensuring their pigments use nothing on this list. Colour selection is of course going to be the big focus for the technician and client. Here there is a range of factors to consider, including skin type, skin thickness, medications, and of course the healed colour the client wants. As an example, thinner skin, for instance as a result of ageing, will make the client more prone to generating cool grey undertones. This may result from pigment being placed too close to the dermis, even though the depth of penetration was relatively shallow. APJ 83
Preparing colour swatches of pigments is a great way to give the client a good impression of what the dried colour will look like, with good training and experience needed to deliver the desired healed result. For hair strokes warm pigment colours are usually preferred because the treatment is in an area where the skin is relatively thin and may reflect colours in a cooler manner. The healed result should be neutral, or possibly warm if the skin is thicker. Warm colours also reduce the risk of the treatment going grey. For shading techniques, for example, when used in combination with hair stokes, or hybrid brows, the colour can be cooler, because the depth of skin penetration is less, avoiding the reflections that can come from the top of the dermal layer. There are a number of factors that affect the healed colour result, however, it’s often one’s training and experience that marks the difference. Making use of colour and correction workshops is a great way to benefit from the experience of well-established trainers and technicians. So, in reading this article so far, how many technicians have been thinking about men? ‘Guy brows’ are emerging as a market, and one that requires a different technique. Men’s brows tend to have naturally more random hair patterns; delivering a set of near parallel hair strokes will not suit the majority of guys as it will feminise him, which is not what they will want. This is where additional training, or a lot of practice on a latex practice mat is going to pay dividends. Getting the balance between a random and a groomed pattern is the key, and following the type of pattern exhibited by the natural hair will usually work best. This is of course also true when ‘repairing’ gaps caused by injury or enthusiastic plucking.
to sophisticated digital machines than have precision-made handpieces, a wide range of settings, are smooth and whisper quiet, and are generally a delight to use. We are not referring to the style of rotary machine that is used for a body art tattoo and some operators use for cosmetic tattooing. Rotary machines literally rotate and vibrate, and while they are very good at getting pigment into the skin, they are generally unsuitable for producing fine hair strokes. Digital machines deliver clean, crisp, consistent hair strokes much more readily than through true microblading. The pigment placement is even and consistent, the skin is perforated, not sliced or torn, and the whole procedure is a lot less traumatic for the skin and therefore the client. As a result, the skin healing process is quicker, pigment retention is better and a lot less likely to be impacted by poor client aftercare. There is also less hypertrophic scarring, which becomes particularly important when a person gets their eyebrows tattooed multiple times in their lifetime. Yes, the digital machine is a significant investment, but the return comes with consistent and longer-lasting results, a happier client, and all the advantages of a quicker procedure. You also look a lot more professional with a full range of needle configurations available.
Courtesy of Nouveau Contour
A SUMMARY OF GOALS Summing up, what are the main goals for delivering great feather stroke eyebrows, both with a digital machine or with microblade hand tools:
Before and after ‘Male Brows’, in this case with a relatively straight hair pattern
DIGITAL MACHINE TECHNIQUES Throughout this article we’ve touched on the use of machines to deliver the same effect as true microblading. What are the pros and cons? Why would you invest in a sophisticated machine when you might be able to get the same result with a cheap hand tool? Well the emerging truth is that you will probably get different results, and the machine should be significantly better. Read on. When talking about cosmetic tattoo machines, we are referring APJ 84
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Make the result look natural. For women that might mean the same result as spending half an hour ‘doing their brows’, for men it will mean looking like well-groomed but random hair.
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Keep hair strokes fine, so they do look natural, and not too close together, so they do not merge.
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Ensure the pigment is placed vertically and evenly for crisp hair strokes that last.
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Choose your pigment manufacturer, quality and colour carefully. Learn as much as you can about warm and cool tones, what works for the different skin types, and how to correct the colour when things change (either the colour or the client’s wishes).
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Make sure you have good aftercare instructions and a clear protocol your client can follow.
A final word of advice; stay in contact with your client, particularly as the brows heal. You will find out if there is anything they are unsure about and also help ensure they stick with the aftercare regime. Now, deliver those fantastic feather stroke brows, and remember, it’s the healed results that determine a great cosmetic tattoo. APJ
HOW IS THE COSMETIC TATTOO INDUSTRY MEASURING UP? Whether you wish to gain a nationallyaccredited government-approved qualification, or continue to master your Cosmetic Tattooing techniques, THink Aesthetics is your answer. THink Aesthetics is a leading Registered Training Organisation (45188) and exclusive, Cosmetic Tattooing training specialists. Committed to best practice, their training is delivered by educators who are skilled in the most recent and up-to-date global trends and advanced techniques â&#x20AC;&#x201C; bringing worldstandards to you.
Our cosmetic tattoo supplier arm - THink MBC, has the sole Australian distribution rights for leading international brands: Nouveau Contour (Holland), Biotouch (USA), Karen Betts (UK) and Ecuri (Holland, for scalp pigments). THink only uses and supplies the most advanced equipment and best quality products that meet with the highest European and international standards.
THink Aesthetics
07 3300 0465 info@thinkaesthetics.com www.thinkaesthetics.com.au
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RESEARCH
The mental attitude that leads to LONGEVITY By Eva Boyd WE WORK in an industry that tries to make people look younger, but ultimately most people today want quality of life and the prospect of living a healthy long life is appealing to them. While we know that managing stress, exercise and a healthy diet will help to hopefully contribute to a longer life, what about our mental outlook? How can this influence our longevity and are there any studies that can shed light on this subject? Apparently, there is. According to new research published in International Psychogeriatrics, living longer is not necessarily just a matter of chance. Approaching life with purpose and optimism has been shown to make a significant difference in a life well lived. It takes intestinal fortitude to live in a world where it feels that to do what's best for you, you have to row against the tide. While many simply go with the flow, it takes courage and, yes, possibly a stubborn streak, to hold out for excellence and perseverance; to live a life with purpose and not just what ‘floats your boat’ at the moment. Researchers from Sapienza University in Rome and the University of California San Diego collaborated to study people living in nine remote villages in Southern Italy who lived, in some cases, well past the age of 90 and even to 101. Their health was compared with those of family members whose ages ranged from 51 to 75 years. One fascinating thing the scientists found was that although some of the younger people may have been in better physical shape, the oldsters enjoyed better mental health. One may wonder how the researchers went about assessing the outcomes of the data they gathered. Data was gathered using both measurable assessments for mental and physical health, including factors like optimism and depression, in addition to interviews that gathered personal stories about traumatic life events and beliefs. The team also analysed the younger participants on the same rating scales but also asked them to describe their older relatives' personalities.
HOW BEING STUBBORN CAN GROUND YOU Characteristics like having a positive attitude contributed to a more upbeat mindset for the older people involved in the study, the assessments determined. Study co-author Dilip Jeste, from the University of San Diego School of Medicine and director of its Center for Healthy Ageing, explained: "The main themes that emerged from our study, and appeared to be the unique features associated with better mental health of this rural population, were positivity, work ethic, stubbornness and a strong bond with family, religion and land." The researchers believe the "Old World" mentality maintained by many of the older participants, evidenced by a tendency toward a domineering, stubborn, "in control" approach to life, helped those older individuals establish a grounded frame of mind; fear of judgment from others wasn't part of
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their mentality. For example, Boxing legend Jake LaMotta, the "Raging Bull," who died on September 19, 2017, at the age of 95, had one such outlook on life. His life was one of brawling and brutality, but against incredible odds he is remembered as one of the greatest middleweight boxers in history. As the study observed, the oldest people alive tend to live their lives by controlling, to the greatest degree possible, their own lives and destinies. They have many things in common: "The nonagenarians and centenarians were positive, optimistic and hopeful despite traumatic events in their lives, like the deaths of their spouses, or children. They worked hard all their lives and were still active in their old age. They loved their families, but were 'controlling, domineering and stubborn,' wanting things to be done their way." Jeste called the nonagenarians' and centenarians’ collective stick-to-it” attitude and "well-deserved stubbornness" and said reaching their advanced ages was a test of their sustainability as a sign that with age comes wisdom.
HOW WISDOM COMES WITH AGE From the point of view of older generations, their ability to have lived so long, and the success of the things they poured their lives into for 90-plus years, justified their complete lack of desire to conform to anyone else's needs or demands. Jeste noted that when you are young, there's a lot of peer pressure and you always feel that you're not doing as well as some other peer. When you are older, the expectation changes — expectations of other people and expectation of self. You accept yourself better. With age comes a sense of balance — an "all things considered" approach that views being agreeable as not a betrayal of one's personal code, but evidence of a greater understanding of what's at stake and what’s truly important in life. Swarthmore College conducted a study in 2016 in which researchers concluded that life experience shouldn't be minimised as it sometimes is by the young. As Science Daily assessed, "With age, comes wisdom, at least when it comes to knowing that things aren't always as they appear." The researchers found that older people tended to assess the correct slope of a hill better than young adults simply because the former group has a greater set of life experiences to draw from. More importantly, interpreting the slant of a slope may be a metaphor for all of life, the study authors conjectured: "Whereas much research on ageing emphasises perceptual decline, when it comes to space perception for navigation, older adults do well. And they also seem to have acquired wisdom with their years about the difference between how things seem and how things are. This is a point well worth making."
PERSPECTIVE, UNDERSTANDING AND GIVING GRACE
THE HEALTHY EATING AND EXERCISE ROUTE
In talking to younger relatives for their impressions of their elders' personalities, characteristics and qualities, it's telling that one younger relative in the study of Italian oldsters described her father as "a dictator."
If you know that you don't have the most positive outlook on life but still want to live to be a ripe old age, you can learn strategies for becoming happier and more optimistic. That being said, eating right and keeping your body limber and your heart strong with regular daily movement and exercise is also important. One doctor advises that the best way to make up physically for a not-so-positive attitude is to exercise.
We probably all know an elderly person who has not chosen to take the proverbial high road and instead chooses to look back on the landscapes of their lives with regrets of the past and anxiety for the future rather than focusing with gratitude and grace — both for themselves and for others — in the everpresent here and now. That's undoubtedly why the researchers also encountered older people with a tendency to be domineering, inflexible and the ones in control. It's easy to see how people with such a bent would find it particularly hard to face the changes that come with age with their circumstances often dictated by a decrease in financial or physical freedom. While some people might call that survival skill "stubbornness," others might call it "grit." It might not be a refusal to budge for the sake of being a curmudgeon, a feeling they've earned the right or an urge to make up for times they might have felt slighted, or taken advantage of. It might be self-preservation. It's got to be tough to be deferential in the face of hard times, like the loss of loved ones, lost jobs, unmet expectations and consequences of things that might not have gone quite as one planned or hoped, especially as old age is taking its inevitable toll. As late actress Bette Davis once quipped, "Old age ain't no place for sissies."
YOU’RE AS OLD AS YOU FEEL VERSUS MIND-OVERMATTER
A recent study at the University of Kansas, however, found that people are generally eager to live into old age, but only if they're in good health. When 90 people from Germany, China and the U.S. were interviewed, study author David Ekerdt, Kansas University professor of sociology and gerontology, noted a certain reluctance on the part of the participants to specify how long they wanted to live, ostensibly because the "must be healthy" prerequisite was a caveat. Ekerdt believed the reluctance stemmed from the way people in general feel about the ageing process. Depending on cultural norms, ideas about life either flowing on in a smooth continuum or being sharply divided sequences of time seem to be placed in four stages of life, the third being the stage that might be referred to as retirement. The fourth stage was described by some participants in terms and words such as disability and decline. A willingness to prolong life was dependent on being able to maintain their current state of health or what they might deem acceptable. According to Ekerdt, "Some felt their lives had already reached a stage of completion, and others as a form of fate acceptance." An upside was that the older individuals in the study claimed to resonate with mottos like "Add life to years, not just years to life." The best way to do it is by making lifestyle choices that will help increase your potential for life expectancy.
THE SEARCH FOR SIGNIFICANCE
One of the most important things you can do in any situation is to look at the bright side, and that's probably, more true with approaching old age as any other situation in life. It's one thing to notice older people who aren't handling it as well as we feel they could or should, but the bell tolls for us just as surely as it does for the archetypal "them." Time certainly does march on.
One thing the researchers noticed right away in talking to the older people was that connection was of great significance, and recognising their own significance was fundamental for emotional survival. A desire to be close to family and friends in the emotionally connected sense was one more thing the older people shared in common.
Like practicing a speech before you give it or planning a trip to an unknown city, imagining how it might go, planning for contingencies and determining how you'll react if something doesn't go as swimmingly as you hoped is a prudent course of action. It's true also as you begin looking at your twilight years. But there's something that's both galvanising and encouraging about viewing (and living) advanced age with an outlook that everything will be all right, no matter what happens. That's why a positive attitude may very well be worth its weight in gold.
Another study reported that people who had positive rather than negative ideas about what ageing looked like lived an average of 7.5 years longer than their more negative counterparts. Variables like age, gender, socioeconomic status, loneliness and functional health notwithstanding, the will to live is powerfully suggestive, and more often than not, it's about the love of friends and family.
In fact, studies suggest that how you approach the ageing process can be a self-fulfilling prophecy. If you feel that because you have a certain number of candles on your birthday cake it means it's time to fade into insignificance and obscurity, you almost certainly will. On the other hand, if you adopt a can-do, one-foot-in-front-of-the-other approach to life with every new day, the odds are you'll live longer. More importantly, you'll be happier and healthier as you do it. If you ever find yourself thinking "people my age should act or feel this way or that way," resist it. Instead of allowing words and phrases like "cognitive decline," "crotchety" or "feeble" to fill your thoughts of what "old age" looks like, focus on positive terms such as "knowledgeable," "experienced" and "wise" instead. It's much more than bamboozling yourself; write your own scenario and it may come true.
It's one of the most crucial aspects of being able to live happily, even if it's not forever after. No matter how old you are, people need to know they're wanted, to feel at home, to look forward to seeing familiar faces and knowing they can freely share both stresses and joys, but such freedom is missed most by the elderly when they no longer have it. Further, social support of that magnitude doesn't have to come from a hundred friends, but ideally it should be at least two good friends or relatives to fulfill that sense of belonging we all need. As the researchers confirm, hard work and a strong mental attitude is not such a bad thing, so to all the Baby Boomers who are considering retirement, but can’t afford it, chances are staying positive and continuing to work hard with purpose may not be such a bad thing in ensuring you will live to a ripe old age. APJ
For a list of references, please contact the editor.
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NUTRITIONALSCIENCE
FUELED BY THE POWER OF KETONES By Eva Boyd
MCT fatty acids can help with: •
MEDIUM-CHAIN TRIGLYCERIDES (MCTs) have become increasingly popular as people are learning more about the health benefits of nutritional ketosis, which is achieved by replacing net carbohydrates (total carbs minus fibre) with high amounts of healthy fats and high quality protein.
Maintain a healthy weight — since they both make you feel full
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Specifically reduce stored body fat — since they also raise your metabolic function
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Have more energy
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Think more clearly
Some of the health benefits of coconut oil relate to the MCTs in the oil. Meanwhile, many health programs request that you use MCT oils, which is available at health stores at different concentrations. While MCT oils are made from 100% coconut oil, why pay 2-4 times the price to use them over standard coconut oil you may ask? The simple answer to this is that MCT oil has been chemically changes to have higher levels of MCT than standard coconut oil. As it is a more concentrated source of MCT it tends to be more appropriate for clinical uses. Furthermore, MCT oils do not have the coconut taste or smell that standard coconut oil has, so it is a more palatable oil, especially when ingested in a coffee, or added as part of a salad dressing. Let’s look at some of the most common clinical uses of MCT oil:
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Experience better digestion
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Balance hormone levels
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Improve your mood
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Fight bacterial infection and viruses
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Absorb fat-soluble nutrients from various foods
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Appetite reduction that supports weight loss
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Improved cognitive and neurological function with possible implications in neuro-degenerative disorders
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Increased energy levels and improved athletic performance
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Improves mitochondrial function and subsequent reduced risk for diseases such as atherosclerosis, diabetes, cancer, cardiovascular disease, autoimmune diseases and epilepsy
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As part of a specialised dietary therapy for the treatment of epilepsy
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Prevention of non-alcoholic fatty liver disease (NAFLD)
SHORT, MEDIUM AND LONG-CHAIN TRIGLYCERIDES Studies are now identifying how the “low-fat diet” dogma of the past half century has led to a devastating drop in most people’s intake of healthy saturated fats, including MCTs, as most people have bought into the erroneous assumption that saturated fats are unhealthy and will raise their risk of heart APJ 88
disease. Furthermore, healthy fats are important in supporting hormonal function. By depriving the body of healthy fats, this can compromise healthy hormonal function. Besides coconuts, coconut oil and palm kernel oil, small amounts of MCT can be found in butter and other high-fat dairy products from grass-fed cows and goats. Be sure not to confuse the extremely unhealthy industrial versions of coconut and palm oils (which are historically used as hydrogenated oils in industrial baked goods) with organic, virgin and unrefined oils available as “health foods.”
WHAT ARE MEDIUM CHAIN TRIGLYCERIDES? To understand MCTs we need to look at their chemistry as MCTs get their name from their chemical structure. Fats consist of chains of carbon molecules connected to hydrogen atoms. Short-chain fats have six carbons or less. Medium-chain fats contain between six and 12 carbons, while long-chained fats, such as the omega-3 fats docosahexaenoic acid (DHA) and eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA), have 13 to 21 carbons.
THE FOUR TYPES OF MCTS MCTs can be divided into four groups based on their carbon length:
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6 carbons (C6), caproic acid
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8 carbons (C8), caprylic acid
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10 carbons (C10), capric acid
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12 carbons (C12), lauric acid
As a general rule, the shorter the carbon chain, the more efficiently the MCT will be turned into ketones, which are an excellent source of energy for your body — far preferable to glucose, as ketones produce far less reactive oxygen species (ROS) when they are metabolised to produce ATP. Studies are now confirming how beneficial ketone ester drinks may help boost performance in professional athletes, but while ketone supplements are still in development, expert advice that your best bet at the moment is to use MCTs found in foods and supplements, which your body will then convert to ketones. Most commercial brands of MCT oil contain close to a 50/50 combination of C8 and C10 fats. On the other hand, straight C8 (caprylic acid), even though more expensive, is considered superior as it converts to ketones far more rapidly than do C10 fats, and may be easier on your digestion. Coconut oil provides a mix of all the medium-chain fats, including C6, C8, C10 and C12 fats, the latter of which (lauric acid) makes up over 40 per cent of the fat in coconut oil. (The exception is fractionated coconut oil, which contains primarily C8 and C10.) There are benefits to all of these fatty acids. However, caprylic and capric fatty acids increase ketone levels far more efficiently. While lauric acid is technically an MCT, its longer carbon chain means it does not always have the same biological activity as the shorter chained ones. In fact, C12 can behave more like long-chain fatty acids (LCTs), which are less efficiently broken down into ketones. As a result, C12 is less potent when it comes to curbing hunger and promoting brain health. For these benefits, you want C8 and C10. Lauric acid is most well-known for its antibacterial, antimicrobial and antiviral properties. The shorter-chained MCTs, on the other hand, are more readily converted into ketones, which are an excellent mitochondrial fuel. Ketones
also help suppress ghrelin — the hunger hormone, and enhance another hormone that signals your brain when you’re full.
HOW MCL OIL BENEFIT YOUR HEALTH Your body processes MCTs differently from the long-chain fats in your diet. Normally, a fat taken into your body must be mixed with bile released from your gallbladder and acted on by pancreatic enzymes to break it down in your digestive system. MCTs don’t need bile or pancreatic enzymes. Once they reach your intestine, they diffuse through your intestinal membrane into your bloodstream and are transported directly to your liver, which naturally converts the oil into ketones. Your liver then releases the ketones back into your bloodstream, where they are transported throughout your body. They can even pass the blood-brain barrier to supply your brain with energy. MCTs also have a thermogenic effect, which has a positive effect on your metabolism. For these reasons, MCTs are readily used by your body for energy rather than being stored as fat. MCTs are also helpful for ridding your gut of harmful microorganisms like pathogenic bacteria, viruses, fungi and parasites. Like coconut oil, MCTs also have antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties.
HOW MCT OIL SUPPORTS WEIGHT LOSS Animal and human studies have demonstrated that MCTs enhance thermogenesis and fat oxidation, thereby suppressing the deposition and accumulation of body fat. In other words, they have a heating effect, and your body can readily use ketones as fuel for energy in lieu of carbs. By helping your body burn fat and produce more ketones, MCTs provide you with effects that are very similar to those you would reap from a ketogenic diet, but without having to reduce your net carbs to as drastically low levels as you would on a ketogenic diet. Here’s a small sampling of studies looking at MCTs’ impact on weight:
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RESULTS OF STUDIES •
One three-month-long, double-blind and controlled study found that long-term consumption of MCTs helped otherwise healthy adults lose significantly more subcutaneous body fat than those who took LCTs. All subjects consumed 60 grams of total fat per day.
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The difference was the type of fat (MCT versus LCT). The energy, protein and carbohydrate levels were otherwise similar. According to the authors, “These results suggest that the MCT diet may reduce body weight and fat in individuals (BMI > or = 23 kg/m(2) more than the LCT diet.”
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A 2015 meta-analysis of 13 randomised controlled trials found that, compared to LCTs, MCTs more effectively decreased body weight, waist circumference, hip circumference, total body fat, total subcutaneous fat and visceral fat. There was no difference in blood lipid levels between the two fats.
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In 2010, researchers published findings showing MCTs help lower your risk of developing metabolic syndrome, which includes a cluster of symptoms such as abdominal obesity, high blood pressure and insulin resistance. Unlike carbohydrates, ketones don’t stimulate a surge in insulin. Another benefit is that they don’t need insulin to help them cross cell membranes, including neuronal membranes. Instead, they use protein transporters, which allow them to enter cells that have become insulin resistant. According to the authors: “Replacement of LCTs with MCTs in the diet could potentially induce modest reductions in body weight and composition without adversely affecting lipid profiles.” Further studies suggested that MCTs help with weight loss by reducing your appetite. As reported by Mental Health Daily: “Some scientists speculate that MCT acts on various hormones such as: cholecystokinin, gastric inhibitory peptide, pancreatic polypeptide, peptide YY and neurotensin. The precise mechanism of action of MCTs remains unknown, but it is known to induce satiety and reduced appetite compared to [LCTs].”
MCT IS BENEFICIAL BUT NOT A MIRACE CURE While MCT can help suppress hunger and assist in weight loss in most studies the effect on weight loss has been relatively small. It’s important to realise that MCT oil will not produce weight loss miracles all on its own. Having said that, it is an excellent addition to an otherwise healthy diet. Moreover, many consider MCTs “the ultimate ketogenic fat,” as it allows you to eat slightly more net carbs, while still staying in nutritional ketosis. Without MCTs, you’d have to cut carbs more drastically in order to maintain ketosis.
HOW MCTS BENEFIT BRAIN AND HEART HEALTH However, when it comes to brain health MCTs are a superior brain fuel, converting to ketones within minutes of ingestion. Therapeutic levels of MCTs have been studied at 20 grams per day. This is the amount indicated for protection against degenerative neurological diseases, or as a treatment for an already established case as published in Mental Health Daily, which stated: “In small scale human trials, MCT supplementation boosted cognition in individuals with cognitive impairment and mild forms of Alzheimer’s disease after just a single dose. While not everyone improved from the MCT treatment, those with certain genetics experienced notable improvement.” Ketones appear to be the preferred source of energy for the brain in people affected by diabetes, Alzheimer’s, Parkinson’s and maybe even ALS, because in these diseases, certain neurons have become insulin resistant or have lost the ability to efficiently utilise glucose. As a result, neurons slowly die off. The introduction of ketones may rescue these neurons and they may still be able to survive and thrive. In multiple studies, ketones have been shown to be both neurotherapeutic and neuroprotective. They also appear to lower markers of systemic inflammation, such as IL-6 and others. Your heart health can also derive great benefit from MCTs.
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Human studies have shown MCTs help lower total lipid levels and improve cardiovascular health. For example, people who regularly consume coconut oil have a lower incidence of heart attack compared to those who do not consume coconut oil — an effect attributed to the MCT in the coconut. A 1991 study found that palm kernel oil was even more effective for lowering serum cholesterol than coconut oil, dairy and animal fats.
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Start with 1 teaspoon and work your way up, adding 1 teaspoon at a time over the course of a few weeks. If you experience GI distress or diarrhea, cut back. While it’s not harmful to overdose on MCT, your body will rid itself of the excess by causing diarrhea, so don’t overdo it.
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Studies suggest an ideal ketone concentration for maximum hunger suppression and fat burning is 0.48 millimole per liter (mmol/L). Ketone measurements can be done through urine, breath or blood testing. Blood testing is the most expensive but also the most accurate and easy to test with home meters and strips. Measure your ketones about one hour after taking your MCT oil, and slowly build up your dose until you reach 0.48 mmol/L.
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Alternatively, simply raise the dose (slowly) until you notice you’re no longer as hungry as you used to be.
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For supplementation in neurological diseases like Alzheimer’s, studies have found beneficial effects using a daily dose of 20 grams (about 4 teaspoons) of MCT oil.
RECOMMENDED DOSES MCT oil (either straight MCT or coconut oil) may be consumed every day. One of the challenges with MCT oils is that if you consume high amounts initially before you develop tolerance to them, they can cause loose stools and gastrointestinal (GI) side effects. Experts therefore recommend taking no more than 1 teaspoon of MCT oil to start. Have it at the same time as another fat, for example, with a handful of nuts, with ghee in your coffee or as one of the oils in your salad dressing. Once your tolerance increases, you can slowly increase that amount to 4 tablespoons of MCT oil per day. If you stop taking MCT oil for a while and then restart, begin with a small amount again to allow your digestive system to readjust. That said, MCT oil is often more easily digested by those struggling to digest other types of fat, such as those with malabsorption, leaky gut, Crohn’s disease or gallbladder impairment (such as an infection or if you had your gallbladder removed). One way you can improve your tolerance is by using the powdered form in shakes, or home baked keto muffins. While optimal dosing will vary from person to person, depending on your health status, energy needs and what your GI tract can tolerate, here are some general guidelines to consider:
As for the type of MCT oil to take, I prefer the more expensive C8 (caprylic acid) oil over those containing both C8 and C10. Avoid cheaper versions containing C6. Even a 1 to 2 per cent concentration of C6 can contribute to GI distress. If you want C12 (lauric acid) for its anti-microbial and anti-inflammatory activity, add coconut oil to your diet, which is less expensive and more versatile than MCT oil. Remember, coconut oil is predominantly lauric acid, which has many benefits, including antimicrobial. However, it does not convert as efficiently into ketones and therefore does not contribute much of an energy boost. Nor does it suppress hunger or help feed your brain the way C8 and C10 do. MCT oil is typically tasteless and odorless, so it can easily be added to a wide variety of dishes and beverages, from salad dressing to smoothies and vegetable juices. APJ
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AMBULANCE IN A BOTTLE Hydra-Repair Gel is an oil-free, yet super-hydrating serum with multiple, potent actives to address numerous skin concerns, repair cell damage and cell barrier function. Developed by Cellbone, formulators of evidence-based cosmeceutical products, Hydra Repair Gel is also known as “Ambulance in a bottle” and for good reason. Key active ingredients include Niacin (B3), 10% Matrixyl, Vitamin B5 Complex, Willowbark extract, Hyaluronic Acid, Idebonone extract and Centella Asiatica. This amazing product is a leading seller as it delivers fast and effective skin repair for virtually any skin type and condition. Contact Cosmedicell Technologies, Australian Distributors for Cellbone on 07 5580 0403 or cellboneordersau@gmail.com
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ESSENTIALOILS
ADD SOME SIZZLE TO YOUR LIFE WITH MANDARIN ESSENTIAL OIL Learn how the sweet freshness of Mandarin Essential Oil can help provide benefits for skin and body By Tina Viney IF YOU are looking for a fresh and uplifting aroma, you can’t go past the citrus family and one of my favourites is the essential oil of mandarin. Compared to orange, which is also a lovely oil, mandarin has a more gentle, softer aroma, while still possessing similar properties. What is amazing about essential oils is that each individual oil is a complex formula with several and varying chemical constituents that bring with them multiple benefits, not just for the skin, but also for the body. When you understand their chemistry, you can combine them in a wonderful blend increasing their synergy to achieve the desired outcome for the purpose you wanted. Essential oils are often misunderstood in terms of their benefits. However, as with everything, education is paramount and can make the difference between disaster and triumph. One of the most important considerations when working therapeutically with essential oils is the issue of quality and purity to ensure that the therapeutic constituents are not destroyed. Many of the essential oils on the market today are perfume grade. Even the so-called natural oils, are often adulterated to minimise their cost. As I have an educational background and experience in clinical aromatherapy I will be conducting a two-day workshop in October. My aim will be to help share some of my knowledge with skin and dermal therapists in how to successfully work with essential oils and bring a new dimension of results to their work. For the purpose of this article I am sharing this to ensure that even a simple oil such as mandarin is not viewed just as a sweet smelling oil — it’s much more than that.
BACKGROUND The Mandarin (Citrus Nobilis, or Citrus Madurensis) probably originated in China, and has certainly been known in that country since antiquity. It takes its name from the fact that, in the past, the fruit was traditionally offered as gifts to the mandarins. However, it is now grown in most European Mediterranean countries, particularly Spain, Italy and France. The essential oil of mandarin has a very delicate aroma, true to the scent of the fruit, and is golden-yellow in colour, with a slight blue-violet fluorescent tint visible in bright light. Because of its gentle action mandarin oil is often regarded in France as 'the children's remedy' and is often chosen to help APJ 94
with the tummy upsets of childhood, including 'burps' and hiccups and mild digestive disorders. It is also beneficial to those who are fragile, particularly the elderly. Mandarin is one of the oils which is safe to use during pregnancy, as it will not harm either the mother, or the developing child. It is an excellent oil to be used as a massage oil also for the prevention of stretch-marks during pregnancy. Let’s take a brief look at this profile:
PROFILE OF MANDARIN OIL Plant/Part: The oil is extracted from the peel Source: Originated in China, but is now prolifically grown in Europe, Brazil and sunny countries and cities such as California Latin Name: Citrus Madurensis Family: Rutaceae Extraction: Expression from the skin Aroma: Delicate, sweet, tangy with floral undertones. Note: Middle note Properties: Antispasmodic, Cholagogue, Cytophylactic, Digestive, Emollient, Sedative, Tonic. The major therapeutic constituents are limonene, methyl methylanthranilate and smaller amounts of geraniol, citrai and citronellal.
BENEFITS OF MANDARIN ESSENTIAL OIL Skin benefits: Mandarin oil is a wonderful choice for treating acne, stretch marks and scars. Because its a gentle oil, typically it does not cause skin reactions. It has the ability to help prevent infection of irritated skin by preventing harmful bacteria and fungal development. If you’re looking for ways to prevent, or soften scars, you can apply the oil combined with a carrier oil directly onto the scar. You can create an effective simple blend by combining one drop of lavender, one drop mandarin, one drop neroli with two tablespoons of almond oil. To support the skin against stretchmarks you can create a simple blend with one drop each of lavender, mandarin and neroli to 10 mls of almond oil and two mls of wheatgerm oil. It must be used daily, preferably twice daily, from about the fifth month of pregnancy to be really effective. This blend is also useful during weight loss, particularly with individuals who are aiming to lose 10 kilos or more.
Anxiety and Nausea: Mandarin essential oil may be one of the best essential oils for anxiety and nausea. A study published in Complementary Therapies in Medicine examined the use and effectiveness of essential oil therapeutic interventions on nausea and anxiety when provided by nurses to patients in acute hospital settings across a large health system. Ten Allina Health hospitals located in Minnesota and western Wisconsin did a study using the delivery of aromatherapy within their facilities. The outcome was positive, showing an improvement in patient-reported anxiety and nausea. There were 10,262 hospital admissions during the study timeframe in which nurses provided aromatherapy as a part of their patient care. There were several oils used, and while each had its strengths, the outcome of mandarin essential oil provided the most improvement to the patients. So, if youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re looking to relieve nausea through aromatherapy treatment, try mandarin. Pain relief: Studies have been conducted showing that the oils from natural plants, such as mandarin essential oil, are sources of molecules that may develop new analgesics and provide benefits when used to fight, or reduce pain. Mandarin oil demonstrated noticeable characteristics, such as a tingling due to its possible effect on the central nervous system. In a study, mandarin essential oil was obtained and then purified. The purified mandarin was found to be similar to another type of known molecule that is capable of blocking pain. The terpenes, which are compounds found in mandarin essential oil, may be used to create analgesics in human therapy against pain. Antibacterial properties: Mandarin essential oil contains antimicrobial activity. Studies were conducted on food to evaluate the effects against Listeria innocua bacteria and the impact on colour and texture was tested on green bean samples. In this study, a â&#x20AC;&#x153;bioactive coating formulation based on modified chitosan containing 0.05% nano-emulsion of mandarin essential oil was tested in combination with gamairradiation, UV-C and ozonated water treatments, and the results in terms of antimicrobial activity, colour and texture changes, were evaluated during 14 days period. The treatment showed positive results in microbial reduction. It also helped prevent the loss of firmness and colour changes of foods during storage, which may give way to a healthier alternative for food preservation, according to the findings published in the International Journal of Food Microbiology. On the body, mandarin oil protects wounds from becoming septic as well as from other bacterial, fungal or viral infections. It forms a protective covering on the wound and promotes the collection of blood platelets and leucocytes at the affected place, thereby blocking the intrusion of microbes. Furthermore, the oil itself has bactericidal and fungicidal properties, thereby adding to this protective effect. Anti-cancer: The effects of the essential oil of mandarin peel and limonene were studied on two human tumour cell growth lines. Both mandarin essential oil and limonene, a chemical found in the peels of citrus fruits and in other plants, were tested showing the inhibition of tumour growth of these cell lines. This could lead to the development of anti-tumour agents and the treatment of cancer by alternative medicine. Relieves Spasms: A spasm in the respiratory system can make you suffer from breathing difficulties, congestion, and exhausting coughs while muscular spasm gives cramps and muscle pulls, which are very painful. Spasms in the digestive system (intestines) can cause vomiting and aches in the stomach and intestines while a spasm in the nervous system
can result in nervous afflictions and convulsions. There are a number of treatments, but one that is herbal and has no adverse side effects is mandarin essential oil. Just a few drops and the spasm will be cured. Improves Blood Circulation: The oil of mandarin also improves the circulation of the blood and lymph, particularly below the skin, which keeps the skin rejuvenated and looking young and vibrant. This improved circulation also creates warmth and provides relief from rheumatism and arthritis. This also aids in boosting immunity. Removes Toxins: It purifies the blood by helping remove toxic and unwanted substances from the body by means of excretion, including urine, faecal matter, and sweat. This action helps to protect against diseases that result from the deposition of toxins, such as abscesses, acne, gout and arthritis. Improves Digestion: A few drops of this oil after lunch or dinner facilitates digestion by stimulating the discharge of digestive juices and bile into the stomach. It also increases the appetite. Hepatic: This oil is good for the liver as it helps to maintain the proper discharge of bile and protect the liver from infections. It also strengthens the liver and optimises its functions. Nervous Relaxant: Although mandarin oil is a common sedative, its sedating action is more prominent in relaxing and calming nervous afflictions and disturbances. It can calm attacks of epilepsy, hysteria, and convulsions. Furthermore, it can assist in calming an individual from stress and anxiety. Promotes Cell Growth: The essential oil of mandarin also promotes the growth of new cells and tissues, thereby helping to speed the healing time of wounds and other signs of wear and tear. Acts as a Tonic: Mandarin essential oil tones and boosts overall health and the function of the immune system. Being a tonic, it helps in the growth and proper functioning of the body by toning various organs and systems of the body including the respiratory, digestive, cardiovascular, circulatory, excretory, nervous, and endocrine systems. It also boosts the overall immune system of the body.
PRECAUTIONS While mandarin is a very safe oil to use, even during pregnancy, being a citrus oil it is considered phototoxic, so avoid using it on the skin under direct sun exposure as it can induce burns.
BLENDING Mandarin essential oil, blends with most of the other citrus oils such as those of neroli, grapefruit, bergamot,orange, lime, and lemon. Along with these, it also blends well with essential oils of cinnamon, clary sage, clove, frankincense, lavender, palmarosa, rose and nutmeg.
CONCLUSION Even if you are not an aromatherapist mandarin is a pleasantly aromatic essential oil that offers great benefits to the skin, nervous system and in aiding digestive issues. Furthermore, it is a relatively inexpensive oil that is worth experimenting with even if you start on a personal level. APJ
For a list of references, please contact the editor.
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SKINTREATMENTS
COOL THERAPIES Effective strategies for the treatment of inflammatory skin conditions By Matoyla Kollaras
INFLAMMATORY skin conditions, which present as erythema (redness), oedema (swelling), venous congestion (blood stagnation), sensitivity and infection (bacterial, fungal), are often made worse by the presence of heat. Unlike the colder months, which tend to make skin dry, tight and flaky, it is well known that the summer heat and UV exposure can trigger and/or worsen skin diseases such as rosacea. So why do many therapists still treat heat with heat? Perhaps it is time to rethink your treatment strategies and embrace a new paradigm for the treatment of inflammatory skin disease that embraces cooling treatments with beneficial phytonutrients and compounds to reduce redness, swelling and infection.
GOOD COP, BAD COP Inflammation is one of the body’s primary defence mechanisms to fight, weaken, destroy and remove foreign material, metabolic by-products and debris. It enables the body to remove damaged cells, neutralise toxins, and fight bacteria, fungi and viruses. The main physiological components of inflammation are redness, pain, heat and swelling. Pain is the nervous system’s response to heat and irritation when the body initiates the inflammation process to ‘burn’ away irritants. Inflammation then goes through several stages before finally allowing the body to heal.
seborrheic dermatitis, dermatitis (eczema) and psoriasis. Skin inflammation can be categorised as either acute or chronic. Acute inflammation can result from exposure to UV radiation (UVR), allergens, contact with chemical irritants (soaps, hair dyes, skincare products etc.) as well as skin treatments. This type of inflammation is typically resolved within 1-to-2 weeks, with little accompanying tissue destruction. In contrast, chronic inflammation results from a sustained immune cell-mediated inflammatory response within the skin itself. This inflammation is long-lasting and can cause substantial and serious tissue and DNA destruction. The process of skin inflammation is complex and is still not completely understood. When the skin is exposed to a “triggering” stimulus, such as UV radiation, an irritant (e.g. soaps, skincare products, or fragrances), or to allergens, the cells in the skin produce a variety of inflammatory “hormones” called cytokines and chemokines, as well as enzymes, free radicals, and various other chemicals. The end result of the initial triggering is the amplification of a large inflammatory response. While this is designed to help the skin fight external pathogenic onslaught, it actually causes considerable compromise to the skin’s barrier function and its immune defence system. This places the skin in a cycle of continual inflammation, skin damage, collagen and elastin degradation, weakened capillary integrity, hypertrophy and end-stage disease, such as skin cancer.
Like a police force that is prompt and efficient, inflammation is usually our friend. However, when the process continues, and gets out of control, it throws things out of balance, becoming a problem that can result in a chronic state of disease that can cause significant damage.
Excessive and chronically inflamed skin can be due to:
MANIFESTATIONS Inflammatory skin diseases are the most common problem in dermatology, manifesting as occasional rashes accompanied by skin-itching and redness, to chronic conditions such as rosacea,
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ROSACEA – one of the most common causes of redness in the skin
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LUPUS – often seen at a ‘butterfly’ rash
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ACNE – generally due to toxic, cystic and infected acne lesions
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SEBBORHEIC DERMATITIS – effecting the sebaceous glands
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PSORIASIS – present in the form of silvery scaly patches
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ECZEMA AND DERMATITIS – manifestation of red patches
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COUPEROSE – broken capillaries
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EXCESSIVELY DRY AND DEHYDRATED SKIN – skin becomes thin and inflamed.
Intrinsic and extrinsic factors can cause and/or exacerbate chronic skin inflammation. These include extreme weather and environmental conditions, excessive alcohol, or spicy food, stress and lifestyle factors and even medications, or systemic disease. However, for the purpose of this article we are referring to skin conditions that present with symptoms of redness, swelling and pain, regardless of the disorder that has cause the condition.
KEEPING IT COOL The management of manifested inflammatory skin conditions is often a perplexing prospect due to the variables (health, diet, lifestyle, stress etc.) and affect even the most calculated aesthetic treatment plans. Furthermore, most therapists tend to work with the knowledge/training, tools and product on hand, which are often limited, and hence often perpetuate skin reactivity and inflammation by utilising treatments such as massage, heating devices, steam, and ingredients such as acids, or topicals such as vitamin A or vitamin C. The good news is that some of the most logical and simplest measures can wield impressive results, and although in many cases we cannot cure the disease, we most certainly can reduce the response, reverse the damage and keep symptoms under control, or in remission. Because many conditions that cause redness on the face can’t be cured, it’s important to take steps to prevent facial flushing. There are, however, three very important points that I would like to emphasise when it comes to treating all diseased and challenging skin conditions:
1. Treat the most urgent issues first: This should be the mantra of every therapist. You will find that once you start treating the most urgent issue first, in this case the manifestation of inflammation, the associated conditions will improve, and the general wellbeing of the skin will begin to recover. 2. Is the condition excessive or deficient? It is extremely important to differentiate between the two. For example, teenage acne tends to be in an excessive state and therefore treatment can be more active, more frequent, and reductive in nature. On the other hand, in the case of rosacea, the skin only appears to be in an excessive state due to its manifestation. Indeed, because rosacea is a chronic issue, the skin is in fact in a deficient state with an outward expression of excessive symptoms (redness, swelling etc.). In this case, treatments should be aimed at building the health and immunity of the skin, while simultaneously reducing symptoms such as inflammation, infection etc. Therefore, at all costs avoid highly active treatments and products that challenge and/or tax the skin. 3. Where there is heat, there is fire: Always treat heat with cold and put out fire with water. Never treat heated skin conditions with oil, which will create a barrier that will have the skin ‘cooking’ further underneath. Water not oil extinguishes fire, and rehydrates dry, parched skin.
HOW DO COMPRESSES BENEFIT THE SKIN? Touch your client’s skin. Does it feel hot? Does your client complain that heat aggravates their skin? After a shower does their skin feel tight, hot and dry? Why, then, should you treat your client’s skin with heat? Hot towels and steam/ vapourzone should not be used on inflammatory and sensitive skin conditions such as rosacea, lupus, inflamed acne etc. In
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marble stones in a disc shape, Crystal face wands, Gemstone rollers in jade or amethyst and Hand-held icing wand.
MASSAGE Massage is beneficial for diseased skin, as it can help to promote blood flow, thus reducing venous congestion (blood stagnation) and oedema (swelling), while simultaneously eliminating toxic by-products. However, friction that will heat the skin and cause further inflammation, therefore traditional facial massage protocols using your hands are not recommended. Instead we recommend these three modalities:
1. Cooling devices — As mentioned previously, cooling devices such as Cryogenic cooling globes allow the therapist to cool the skin through massage. The cooling globes are extremely soothing and calming both on the skin and for the client.
addition, any water used in treatments should be tepid to cool in temperature — in other words, the objective is to cool the skin. To achieve this, cold compresses and herbal poultices are an excellent tool in the treatment of inflamed skin. In a study presented in the journal Archives of Dermatology it was stated that cold compresses helped to alleviate symptoms of rosacea in around 70% of patients. Iced compresses helps to reduce facial flushing and inflammation and are viewed as a safe natural treatment for inflammatory skin conditions. These compresses may be applied on top of a soothing mask or and/or at the end of the treatment for comfort and to reduce inflammation. They also will make mask removal easier. Cold compresses can be prepared by dipping a towel in iced water (never apply ice directly onto the skin) and applying it to the skin for a few minutes. You can also add some Dead Sea Salt to the water, or herbal poultices as minerals such as magnesium, zinc and selenium can be powerful anti-inflammatory agents. Cold compresses offer four main benefits: •
Inflammation: During inflammation, blood vessels vasodilate or expand. there is vasodilation or blood vessels expanding. Cold compress will help to vasoconstrict causing the opposite response, reducing blood flow and rerouting the blood circulation away from the site.
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Oedema: Cold compresses have a hydrostatic ability and so will cause the reduction of fluid transfer, therefore minimising oedema.
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Immunity: Cold compresses can boost the immune system by stimulating immune cells such as T-cells, T-lymphocytes and cytokines.
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Pain: Cold compresses cause the body to release endorphins — hormones with proven pain-fighting capacities.
COLD DEVICES There are a variety of hand-held devices made of glass, ceramic or metal, some filled with cryogenic liquid material, which will cool skin and provide vasoconstrictive activity, thus reducing inflammation, oedema and pain. Ideally these should be used with hydration/water-based mask or an anti-inflammatory gel for easy and soothing glide. Note that cold therapy should be applied in short-sessions and for no longer than 10 minutes at a time. Devices include: Microcurrent golden spoons, Cryogenic cooling globes, Cold “hammer”, Stainless steel rollers, Cold APJ 98
2. Pressure-point therapy — this will help to promote blood flow, while reducing stagnation and alleviating pain. Look for pressure points along the body’s meridian pathways, as identified by Traditional Chinese Medicine. Pressure-point therapy also helps to calm the client and reduce stress. Stress is implicated in worsening inflamed and sensitive skin conditions. 3. Lymphatic drainage — The lymphatic system is part our circulation and vital to the immune system. A network of lymphatic vessels carries a clear fluid called lymph (from Latin lympha meaning water). It is important that this fluid is able to circulate to alleviate toxic build-up, as the lymphatic vessels are indispensable in collecting waste products. All of this plays an important role in the maintenance of healthy skin. Clients with conditions such as rosacea, chronic acne and atopic (genetic) eczema dermatitis are prone to constant lymph node swelling. This inflammatory response causes the skin to become red, hot and itchy. These conditions often contribute to constant scratching of the skin, depleting the skin’s barrier and creating a cascading effect of chronic inflammation, while stress levels rise, causing another acute reaction. Lymphatic drainage removes the build-up of irritation under the skin, and by clearing the lymph nodes of stagnated blood, we can relieve the itchiness, redness, heat and oedema. A manual lymphatic facial is deeply relaxing and one of the best facials for clearing the skin, reducing stress and promoting a sound night’s sleep. However, lymphatic drainage facials should only be performed by therapists who have a sound knowledge of the lymphatic system and its topography, and the correct massage protocol.
MASKS Appropriate masks are highly recommended with inflamed skin conditions. These include Aliginate Mask and Collagen Sheet Mask. Both these masks must be used with cold water to deliver immediate relief for inflamed, irritated and sensitive skin. In addition, the collagen sheet mask provides hydroboosting properties and this hydration will help put out the fire.
LED AND INFRARED LIGHT THERAPY LED and Infrared light therapy is a non-invasive treatment for numerous acute and chronic conditions that provides natural pain relief and aiding faster healing.
activities, and that some of the weakest anti-oxidants have the best anti-inflammatory and anti-ageing effects on human skin cells. In any case, it is smart to select antioxidants with anti-inflammatory actions, and antioxidants that won’t further aggravate the skin – for example vitamin A and Vitamin C are exceptional antioxidants, but they can also trigger inflammation, and as such are contraindicated in inflammatory skin conditions.
Light therapy works by energising compromised cells when there is an injury, disease or the body is slower to heal as a result of age, or a condition such as diabetes. Cells are the building block of the body, and if cells are able to function optimally, the body will heal itself. Light therapy energises compromised cells and increases blood flow as well as other cellular functions using highly beneficial wavelengths of LED light. LED Therapy will help to stimulate healing, relieve pain, swelling and inflammation, remove blood stagnation and increase lymph vessel diameter to ensure clearing of waste products and inflow of oxygen, nutrients and medication concentrations in the areas treated.
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Resveratrol, vitamin E, green tea, Palmitoyl oligopeptide, alpha lipoic acid, purslane, quercetin, magnesium, calcium, Quintescine™ peptide, Omega 3 and 6 are also excellent for inflamed skin conditions.
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Skin barrier rehabilitation: The following ingredients offer great support for inflamed skin conditions. These include centella asiatica, seabuckthorn, hyaluronic acid, oligoaccharides, shea butter, ceramides, zinc, squalene, beta-glucan, Venuceane™, glycoproteins, probiotics, coenzyme Q10, chlorophyll, Echinacea, jojoba.
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Bacteriostatic and anti-microbial agents: Dead Sea salt and mud, sulphur, thyme extract, marjoram extract, oreganum extract, cinnamon extract, lichen extract, propolis, tremella fuciformis (mushroom) extract, chlorphenesin are all wonderful anti-bacterial ingredients.
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Blood flow stimulants (for venous congestion): caffeine, arnica, capsicum, VIT K.
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Broad-spectrum sunscreen: Physical sunscreen zinc oxide, titanium oxide with UVA, UVB and Infrared protection.
The proven effects from red light therapy are: •
Increased production of ATP in the mitochondria — setting of 660-680 nm red wavelength
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Increased immune system activity
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Increased cellular regeneration — the wavelength of 630670 nm raises the potential for macrophages, fibroblasts and keratinocytes
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Prevention of cell death for traumas treated within 4-6hrs
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Clearing of inflammation and increased lymphatic activity
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Increased circulation
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Systemic effect and reduced excitability of nervous tissue (pain relief)
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Regulation of collagen production
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Skin rejuvenation — the orange-red range of 560–780 nm is also effective for skin rejuvenation treatments related to rehabilitation of microcirculation and encouraging fibroblast activity
BENEFICIAL INGREDIENTS When choosing products for the treatment of inflammatory skin conditions choose ingredients that specifically target inflammation (most importantly), barrier damage and possible infection. What makes an ingredient a “good” anti-inflammatory candidate depends primarily on the ability of the ingredient to block key “inflammatory mediators” produced by skin and immune cells. Two of the most important inflammatory mediators involved in skin disorders are TNF-alpha, as mentioned above, and PGE-2. While TNF-alpha plays a key role in psoriasis, PGE-2 is a major participant in all types of skin inflammation, and is perhaps the most important hormone “mediator” involved in sunburn. Pain, redness and swelling are all due, in part to PGE-2, and studies conducted over many years have implicated PGE-2 as a key participant in the development of skin cancer. Further, PGE-2 suppresses collagen formation in the skin and thus, participates in photoageing. Antioxidant compounds that can prevent the production of PGE-2 could be extremely useful in preventing skin ageing and in reducing the risk of skin cancer. Here is a list of useful ingredients in the treatment of inflammation: •
Anti-inflammatory agents: St. John’s wort (Hypericum), niacinamide, Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, gingko, bisabolol, allantoin, calendula, cucumber, aloe azulene, turmeric, selenium, pycnogenol, copper and liquorice.
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Antioxidants: One antioxidant is not better than another. All antioxidants are highly useful compounds and they all have their own therapeutic benefits. However, studies have shown that not all “antioxidants” have anti-inflammatory
AVOID: Retinol (VIT A), ascorbic acid (VIT C), acids (AHA & BHA), alcohol, witch hazel, heating essential oils such as, eucalyptus, peppermint and menthol.
CLIENT HOMECARE ADVICE Skin that is prone to inflammation requires special care on a daily basis. The following a recommendations you should communicate to your clients: •
Avoid harsh soaps, exfoliants and chemicals that can cause skin irritation and redness. Always remove makeup before going to bed to prevent a build-up of dirt and bacteria.
•
During sunny days, wear a wide-brimmed hat, keep your face in the shade, and use physical broad-spectrum sunscreen (UVA, UVB & INFRA-RED protection).
•
Avoid foods and drinks that can trigger outbreaks of rosacea. Some of these are spicy foods and alcohol.
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Reduce stress in your daily life to avoid over-stimulating the skin.
•
Seek fitness without the flush – avoid strenuous and stressful exercise, opting instead for walking, tai chi, swimming, light weights etc.
•
Avoid long hot showers and baths, sauna, spa etc.
Inflamed skin conditions are often the result of genetics, lifestyle, stress, and inappropriate products and protocols. Most importantly, avoid treatments that exacerbate the inflammation of the skin and also avoid applying further heat to affected areas. In this article, I have outlined a number of these easy-to-use therapies, but like all advice given, you should always remember if the condition persists, to recommend your client to a dermatologist at their earliest convenience. APJ SKIN FACTORS 1800 824 282 info@skinfactors.com.au
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SKINCAREINGREDIENT
EDELWEISS
The powerful mountain flower with anti-ageing benefits for the skin By Tina Viney I HAVE always been fascinated by this little flower that looks bravely and determined in the face of adversity and is a symbol of pure dedication and tenacity, and for me, the Edelweiss emcompasses everything that defines survival despite all odds. You will mostly find the Edelweiss high up in the Austrian and Swiss Alps and if you are at all familiar with these Alps, they are huge and quite intimidating if you want to explore them. However, despite the extreme weather conditions, high altitudes, low temperatures and often rocky environment in which it is surrounded the Edelweiss manages to survive. What I admire about this beautiful little white flower is its tenacity and capacity to survive despite its environmental challenges. It may be small and humble and even though it lives in its formidable mountainous terrain, something inside it makes it resilient and determined to overcome its incredible environmental challenges. What an inspiration we can all gain from the Edelweiss? Studies have now isolated some amazing components of this incredible plant and the many defense mechanisms the Edelweiss has developed to protect itself from the elements. Tapping into these constituents, scientists are now discovering their benefits for skincare and longevity. Let’s take a closer look at this unique plant.
BACKGROUND INFORMATION The Edelweiss became better known with the movie “The Sound of Music” when the song “Edelweiss” was sung with a symbolic meaning of endurance of the Austrian people during the ifficult war years when Hitler was attempting to invade all of Europe.
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The Austrian, or German word “Edelweiss”, means “noble and white,” or “noble whiteness,” which describes this perennial plant perfectly. The Edelweiss plant can be found at altitudes of 5,000 – 8,000 feet and is known to grow at great heights, on cliff sides, and in other dangerous areas, which made the pursuit of the elusive white flowers a challenge for young men who want to prove their undying love for that special woman in their life. The Edelweiss has a similar romantic story to another unique little blue flower, the beautiful Forget-me-not. If you remember how the flower got its name, the myth goes that two lovers walking along the Danube River and first saw the bright blue blossoms and enchanted by their beauty the woman wanted to reach out and pick some. As it was in a dangerous part of the river the man retrieved the flowers for his beloved, but was unable to escape the strong tide of the river and was swept away and drowned. On his way to his death he cried out to the woman forget me not! Since then the Forget-me-not has become a symbol of remembrance of love. From a botanical point of view the Edelweiss is a member of the sunflower family, Edelweiss (Leontopodium alpinum) can grow up to 30 centimetres high with five to six small flower heads surrounded by specialised white leaves in star formation, blooming between July and September. It likes rocky limestone places at higher altitudes and grows a sort of wooly hair on the flowering leaves, apparently to protect them from the cold and ultraviolet radiation. The scientific name is a Greek term that means “lion foot of the Alps.” The flower became so prized among hikers in some countries that governments in Austria, Germany,
and Switzerland now protect it in certain parts of the Alps. Also called the “Queen's flower” in Greek, it's white colour is considered a symbol of purity. Today, the plant is widely cultivated in many countries around the world.
HISTORICAL INTERNAL USES OF EDELWEISS While you are most likely interested in the benefits of Edelweiss in skincare, it is important to also know that this plant has been used historically for certain health benefits. After drying, the flowers can be cut and prepared in an alcohol solution, so the extract can be used as a medicinal herb. Edelweiss was known to help diarrhoea and dysentery, and was actually called the “stomach-ache flower” in Germany. It was also used to help combat tuberculosis and diphtheria, and was popular mixed in with hot milk and honey. It was also used to help soothe coughs. One of the oldest uses of Edelweiss was for the treatment of rheumatic pain and was a traditional remedy used in the Tyrol. Today, however, the world is more excited about Edelweiss' action as an anti-ageing plant.
the ethnomedicinal use of Leontopodium alpinum for the treatment not just for the skin, but also for respiratory and abdominal disorders. Scientific studies have demonstrated the presence in the plant of powerful antioxidants and other substances with both antiinflammatory and cytoprotective (a process by which chemical compounds provide protection to cells against harmful agents) properties. When scientists got their hands on this plant they were astounded at the amazing compounds that can also provide benefit to the skin. These include the natural actives: •
Leontopodic acids A and B these are novel highly substituted glucaric acid that possess antioxidative and DNA protecting properties
•
Chlorogenic acid is a family of naturally-occurring organic compounds that is a powerful antioxidant
•
3, 5-dicaffeoylquinic acid, which have anti-hyaluronidasic (family of enzymes that degrade hyaluronic acid and anticollagenasic (enzymes that break the peptide bonds in collagen) activity
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Luteonlin, a flavonoid, also one of the citrus bioflavonoids known to have many benefits
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Bisabolane derivaties in the plant possess strong calming and anti-inflammatory properties
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Betta Sitosterol is a plant sterol with anti-inflammatory, anti-fungal and bactericidal activities, which is beneficial in calming and soothing the skin
THE SKIN BENEFITS OF EDELWEISSS The ability of the plant to protect itself from climatic extremes are the very properties that are needed for protection of the skin, especially for those living in urban areas. Extracts and individual constituents of Leontopodium alpinum were tested for their antimicrobial activity in two different assays. Extracts were screened in agar diffusion assays, whereas the minimum inhibitory concentrations (MIC) of single compounds were determined by the microbroth dilution method according to NCCLS criteria. Significant antimicrobial activities were found against various strains of Enterococcus faecium, Escherichia coli, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, Staphylococcus aureus, Streptococcus pneumoniae, and Streptococcus pyogenes strains. These results support
Also present are phytosterols, amino acids, polysaccharides — with moisturising properties and which act as plant nutrients. These constituents have been proven beneficial in skincare. As such, Edelweiss is used in anti-ageing formulations, sun, and
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after sun formulations, daycare formulations, especially antioxidative treatments.
CHEMICAL ANALYSIS Here is a more detailed report on some of the recent findings on the chemical analysis of the Edelweiss. For years there was hardly anything known about the chemical composition of Edelweiss and it was said to contain tannin, gum, salts, and a bitter substance. Subsequently flavonoids, phenolic acids, terpens, a chromane derivate and some bisabolane derivates have been isolated from Edelweiss. For their investigations of the anti-inflammatory effects of Leontopodium alpinum Prof. Dr. H. Stuppner (University of Innsbruck) provided several constituents isolated from the roots of Edelweiss, namely two bisabolane sesquiterpenoids called bisabolane A and bisabolane CD and one plant-lignan called MAB F7 (10). Phytochemical analysis showed the presence of tannins, flavonoids and phenylpropanoids, which are of interest as constituents of drugs and cosmetics. Three new compounds, including a benzofuran, 1 – (2R*,3S*)-3-( -D-glucopyranosyloxy)-2,3-dihydro-2-[1(hydroxymethyl)vinyl, 1-benzofuran-5-yl] ethanone, a lignan, [(2S,3R,4R)-4-(3,4-dimethoxybenzyl)-2-(3,4-dimethoxyphenyl) tetrahydrofuran-3-yl, methyl (2E)-2- methylbut-2-enoate, and a silphiperfolene-type sesquiterpene, (1S,2Z,3aS,5aS, 6R,8aR)1,3a,4,5,5a,6,7,8-octahydro-1,3a, 6-trimethylcyclopenta[c] pentalen-2-yl methyl acetate, together with the known coumarins obliquin and its 5-methoxy derivative were isolated from the roots of Leontopodium alpinum. Another known coumarin derivative, 5-hydroxyobliquin, was isolated from the roots of L. leontopodioides. The structures of these compounds were established by spectroscopic studies. An essential oil (ca. 0.6%) was separated from hairy roots by steam distillation, a high variability in oil yield being observed between the lines. Gas chromatography analyses showed the oils to be complex mixtures of >30 compounds, with 2 of these consistently representing ca. 60% of the oils. Essential oils isolated from hairy roots were qualitatively similar to the natural root oil, although quantitative differences in oil components were apparent. Oil yields were increased by growing roots in the dark (12). (S)-(-)-2,3-Dihydro-2,6-dimethylAPJ 102
4Hbenzopyran-4-one was isolated from the essential oil produced by roots and cultured hairy roots (transformed by Agrobacterium rhizogenes) of L. alpinum. This is the first reported natural occurrence of (S)-(-)-2,3dihydro-2,6-dimethyl-4Hbenzopyran-4-one. Its structure was determined on the basis of spectral data and by comparison with a synthetic sample. The cultivated plants were extracted and found to contain chlorogenic acid a material previously found in apple seeds and discovered to have antioxidant activity useful as a free-radical scavenger. The flavonoid luteolin was discovered to be present as was its derivative luteolin-4’-O-glucoside. Luteolin is well documented for its hyaluronidase inhibition and antineoplastic activity. The glucosidic derivative present has interleukin-5 inhibition. Among these flavonoid glucosides is found apigenin-7glucoside, which was first detected as one of the antiinflammatory components of Roman Camomile or Anthemis nobilis. The study confirmed that much of the plants anti-inflammatory activity comes from the presence of β-sitosterol, a material which is also responsible for some of the antifungal and antibacterial activity. Closely related to the chemical β-bisabolol, there are a series of bisabolane derivatives which also possess anti-inflammatory activity (and mainly found in the roots). The presence of tannins provides some of the antiseptic and inhibition of lipid peroxidation properties. There is also present a brand-new phytochemical never before found or isolated in any plant. At this point the researchers are not permitted to reveal the structure of this phytochemical as further analysis needs to be conducted in order to identify more details about its properties.
CONCLUSION As studies confirm the beneficial constituents of the Edelweiss for the skin we will continue to see global cultivation of this plant and extracts of the amazing Edelweiss in cosmetic formulations. APJ
For a list of references, please contact the editor.
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MEMBERPROFILE
GIPPSLAND COSMETIC LASER CLINIC
RAISING THE BAR ON STANDARDS ONE of the hallmarks of a high achiever is the ability to be true to yourself and your own values and reject the notion that you need to follow the crowd in order to be successful. Leaders in their field often do things differently — they don’t blend, they stand out. However, their difference also sets them apart as positive examples and an inspiration to others. Anita Turner and Daniel Calabro are a perfect example of these leadership qualities that have led them to achieve exemplary standards in their business and professional endeavours. As a dynamic partnership in life and business they beautifully complement each other in running a highly successful clinic in Tralalgon, Victoria. In 2017 they entered the Australasian MyFace MyBody global aesthetics awards and were the recipients of two coveted awards winning — Best Practice Victoria, and Best Practice Team Australasia. These awards also include cosmetic and plastic surgery practices, so the competition to take out these two awards was rigorous. We spoke with Anita, who shared with us her professional journey and how with the complementary skills of her partner Daniel, they have achieved incredible business success. This success they attribute to their strong commitment to high standards and in not compromising on their values.
APJ Q1: ANITA, SHARE WITH US YOUR PROFESSIONAL BACKGROUND AND WHAT MOTIVATED YOU TO LAUNCH GIPPSLAND COSMETIC LASER CLINIC? I’ve always had a passion for science and the application of it to help alleviate suffering. From a very young age, I was captivated by ABC programs such as The Science Show, The Health Report, Catalyst, etc. and had a keen interest in biology in particular. My mother was a very experienced nurse and has always been an incredible role-model to me. She is extremely intelligent, and one of the most caring individuals you could ever hope to meet. Her example, combined with my love of science and a deep desire to help people, steered me into a career as a Registered Nurse. After completing my studies with honours in 2000, I worked at the Royal Women’s Hospital in Melbourne where I developed a passion for women’s health. In 2004, I moved back to my hometown in Gippsland, a regional area east of Melbourne. Here I started working in general practice, where my nursing skills expanded, and began caring for the community in which I lived. After the birth of my second child in 2010 I became interested in undertaking laser hair removal. As a risk-averse individual with my spendthrift husband Daniel, I spent a long time
researching the treatment to ensure that it was safe, and that it would be effective. I was both excited and shocked with what I discovered. Excited about what the latest technology was capable of delivering, but shocked to find that there were no regulations existing in Victoria to ensure that providers were adequately trained and educated, or that the devices being used met any safety standards, or responsibly maintained. As a healthcare provider, I was concerned that I may be receiving and recommending a treatment that may not only be ineffective, but potentially dangerous. Simultaneously, my own research and growing knowledge surrounding cosmetic technology and its capabilities was rapidly fuelling in me a new passion. In 2013 I travelled to NSW to undertake a postgraduate course in laser and light therapies and launched my first clinic in 2013 with one goal in mind — to provide the highest quality, safest, and most effective laser treatments in Australia.
APJ Q2: YOU AND DANIEL BOTH WORK IN THE BUSINESS, WHAT ARE YOUR RESPECTIVE ROLES? I love my role as Clinical Director, as it is very diverse. I thoroughly enjoy researching and implementing new and innovative treatment options. I develop and introduce new procedures, policies and treatments. I recruit, train and supervise staff, as well as provide 24/7 support to my nurses. I oversee all general operations within the clinic to ensure our level of care is consistent and exceptional. In addition to my duties as director, I also still enjoy the hands-on experience of consulting with and treating clients. I am an advanced cosmetic injector, and also work as an advanced injectables trainer at the Cosmetic Professional Development Institute of Australia. My husband Daniel began to get involved with the clinic when we opened our second location. The financial and operational aspects of running a business were becoming very timeconsuming and I wanted to ensure that I could remain focused on the components directly related to the needs of our clients. Daniel takes care of HR, payroll, bookkeeping, communications and marketing. We have very different personalities, and our differing opinions ensure that everything we do is rigorously explored before being implemented. It has been wonderful working with Dan because we share the same joys and struggles associated with running a business. This shared experience provides a mutual understanding and compassion that is extremely valuable for both the business, and our relationship.
APJ Q3: WHAT SERVICES DO YOU PROVIDE AND WHAT ARE YOUR VALUES? We have intentionally established ourselves in the community APJ 105
as separate to a beauty salon. This is in partly because we operate in a small community and do not wish to compete with local businesses already providing great beauty services. But it’s also due to the fact that we align what we do more towards healthcare than beauty, and therein lies the important point of difference. While we don’t perform facials, manicures, microdermabrasion, etc, our service list still does read similar to many other establishments, including: permanent hair reduction, pigmentation removal, laser skin toning, vascular treatments, tattoo removal, carbon peels, IPL, LED, RF and fractionated RF. We also offer teeth whitening, anti-wrinkle and dermal filler injections, PRP for hair and skin rejuvenation, scar reduction, skin tightening, benign lesion removal, extractions, etc. These services undoubtedly deliver great results when performed correctly, but they are also common (for the most part). In reality, it’s not the list of services that create great clinics, or set them apart. Our values and standards define us and project us into a totally different category. There are countless ways in which our values and standards have lifted our reputation for great service to a new level. At the very core of it is one thing — trust. First and foremost, our nurses and staff are not required to meet any sales targets, or KPIs whatsoever. This goes against every professional recommendation we’ve ever had — but it ensures that our staff are never conflicted when providing consultations, and they make recommendations based exclusively on the needs of the client. Second, our staff know undeniably that the services we provide works. By researching, investing in the best possible devices and products, and by employing people that understand and appreciate the science behind all of it, our staff have confidence and faith in what they are providing. Clients intuitively know when a practitioner is authentic.
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Another key factor is that we provide much longer appointment times than virtually any other practice we know of. Not only does this make appointments feel comfortable, but more importantly, it also allows time to really understand and assess clients, to take thorough notes, and to ensure clients get very clear and extensive education. Our staff are not rushed, so they can give 100% attention to clients every single time. There are a multitude of ways in which we incorporate our ethics into our practice, but these three things alone virtually guarantee that our clients feel confident — we know what we are doing, and we know it works. We clearly understand every client’s needs and are exclusively recommending what is best for them, and in turn they are educated, informed and understand exactly what to expect.
APJ Q4: BEING LOCATED IN A RURAL REGION OF VICTORIA HOW DO SO SECURE QUALIFIED STAFF, AND HOW DO YOU MAINTAIN THEIR PROFESSIONAL DEVELOPMENT? The opportunities for registered nurses in regional areas are often limited to hospitals, general practice and aged care. While these do provide a wide range of fields to work within, cosmetic nursing is very rarely something regional nurses can do. Subsequently, this means we offer a very sought-after career opportunity for many nurses in our region. While there is no shortage of nurses interested in working for our clinics, the number of nurses that also come with experience in the field is limited. We are fortunate enough to have some members of the team that have either worked extensively in the field outside of this region, and/or have undertaken post-graduate studies in cosmetic nursing, but this is generally an exception. Contrary to popular belief however, experience alone provides zero guarantees that an individual will be a great staff member. We have come to appreciate in our time as employers that
the personality of an individual is paramount. Of course, our staff must be a registered nurse, and we do seek individuals with plenty of nursing experience. However, our recruitment process almost exclusively scrutinises how well a prospective staff member will work within our team, and create relationships with our clients. We look for natural attributes that shine through without effort, such as friendliness, professionalism, empathy, a sense of humour, attention to detail, a love of learning, social awareness, honesty, humility, genuine interest in the field, values and ethics, intellect and emotional intelligence, etc. Once we have selected the right personality, training for the specific role is relatively straightforward. Professional development is provided through internal and external training courses, and also seminars and conferences throughout the year. Together with management, the clinics have a senior nurse management team who formally write and update policies and procedures that are then implemented by the rest of the team. Sharing of knowledge and experience is encouraged through team meetings, regular staff newsletters, internal training days, staff treatments nights and private online forums.
APJ Q5: IN YOUR DEMOGRAPHIC ARE THERE SPECIFIC NEEDS THAT YOUR CLIENTS HAVE? The needs of rural clients are generally no different to the needs of their suburban counterparts. But perhaps one general difference is the level of sun exposure they have had. Many of our clients have been raised on farms, and have spent a
lot of time outdoors. We work collaboratively with a number of doctors in our region to ensure suspicious lesions are investigated promptly. In line with this, we demand that all clients undergoing skin treatments have had a thorough skin check with a skin cancer specialist within the previous three months. In this way we can use our services to engage our clients in health-promotion activities, which in the long run can contribute to greater quality and longevity of life.
APJ Q6: CONGRATULATIONS ON WINNING TWO AWARDS AT THE MYFACEMYBODY INDUSTRY AWARDS 2017. SHARE WITH US YOUR EXPERIENCE, AND WHAT THESE AWARDS MEAN TO YOU AND YOUR STAFF? In 2016, after becoming a finalist in the Telstra Business Awards, we were thrilled to also be named as a finalist in the My Face My Body Global Aesthetics Awards. However, we decided to boycott the MFMB awards due to some ethical conflicts it posed for us. We believed that for any clinic to be named â&#x20AC;&#x153;Best Clinicâ&#x20AC;?, finalists they needed to be assessed in far greater APJ 107
books, etc. will simply not provide success because they are not you, and not in your unique situation. For us, in a rural setting with a low population, there is absolutely no way that we can implement many of the common things suggested by these sources. We had to rely exclusively on our own initiative in research, our responsible and risk-averse management of cashflow, and our intuition to really understand our community.
detail. Otherwise, in our opinion, it could potentially mislead the public. A written awards submission (without supporting evidence) and public vote was all that was determining the Best Practice at that time. We sent a lengthy justification explaining our position, and provided the My Face My Body management with suggestions on what we felt should be mandatory components of the judging process. These included actual physical audits of a clinic, to ensure judges could assess the validity of written submissions. We also suggested that without adequate regulations existing across this industry, the MFMB awards had a responsibility to ensure that winners were exemplifying the highest possible level of care and ethics — setting a benchmark for everyone. Excitingly, MFMB really stood up to the challenge, and the 2017 entry process was far more stringent. The written submission required a lot more detail, providing applicants with the opportunity to showcase the quality of their practice. Supporting evidence was required throughout, including staff qualifications, before and after photos with treatment descriptions, marketing examples, and so on. The best improvement however was the inclusion of two mystery audits. These audits were highly detailed, and designed to give judges a thorough understanding of the operations of the clinic by acting as a client. In turn, written reports were given to entrants delivering very valuable insights into the actual performance of their practice. Winning Best Practice Victoria, and Best Practice Team Australasia, was both amazing and validating to us all. Providing the service, we do to our local community is already hugely rewarding in itself, but to be honoured with this means we may be setting a standard that can help shape the future of the cosmetic industry in Australia. That is the biggest thrill of all.
APJ Q7: TO WHAT DO YOU ATTRIBUTE YOUR SUCCESS, AND ARE THERE ANY EXCITING PLANS FOR THE FUTURE FOR YOU? I’m keenly aware of the concept of survivorship bias when discussing the factors that I believe are behind our success. What we believe are the key elements may not lead to the same outcome in the hands of another. In all honesty, I think a combination of several factors all worked in symbiosis to generate the success we have had. With this in mind, I believe one very important attribute all business owners must have is intuition and adaptability. Blindly following the guidance of consultants, marketers, bloggers, business or industry specialists, successful business owners, APJ 108
Another thing I would attribute to our success is the “all or nothing” approach to standards. In this age of discounts and price-beating the big loser has been standards and customer experience. You simply cannot provide high quality service to your clients if you do not charge an adequate amount for your services. To accommodate discounting, where do you cut your overhead costs? Product quality or machine quality? The time spent in treatments and consultations? The quality and training of your staff? The maintenance of your devices or the cleanliness of your practice? Another issue, in our experience is that small practices should never try to compete with chains. Even though there are many members of community that initially choose providers on price alone, I guarantee you that it’s not long before they start realising that the service doesn’t work, or is substandard. No one wants to pay for a bad experience — no matter how cheap! Retain good staff by treating them well. Purchase expensive machines and pay expensive maintenance contracts to ensure safety and consistently good outcomes. Sacrifice potential turnover on a daily basis to ensure clients and staff get adequate time in appointments. Turn away clients when necessary. Treat injectables clients with a minimal amount of product to ensure they look natural without leading them to spend more money than necessary. Develop a brilliant reputation for quality, and trust. And charge what you must to ensure that you can operate in this way. Finally, I think it is imperative, especially in this industry, to have a genuine and selfless desire to help others (hence why I believe nurses are so well suited to the cosmetic industry). If your decisions are guided by the genuine desire to help others, to respect everyone’s self-esteem, and to nurture trust, then you have the best possible chance of success. As for the future, we don’t have any world-dominating aspirations. Expansion could threaten our personal involvement, which is at the heart of our clinics, so for now, that is not something we plan on doing. We do however enjoy sharing our insights and experiences with the wider industry, and with continued success, we may look towards ways of improving our industry. These may include working to improve public education, improve industry standards and ethics by influencing change within industry institutions and awards programs, or by helping other practices reach their full potential — not just financially, but in the development of their core values, ethics, standards and reputation. Congratulations to Anita and Daniel. We wish them every success in their future endeavours. We recognise their commitment to excellence, which we are sure will drive them to greater heights as they pursue their goals. APJ GIPPSLAND COSMETIC LASER CLINIC www.gippslandlaser.com.au
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LASERCONFERENCE
A GREAT SUCCESS!
LASER AND COSMETIC MEDICINE CONFERENCE LAST year’s National Laser & Cosmetic Medicine Conference was held on the 11 and 12 November in Melbourne at the beautifully appointed Crown Hotel. The conference stepped up its presentation even further this year delivered a comprehensive educational program covering an excellent cross-section of pertinent topics, including the latest scientific and technological developments, techniques, new advances in cosmetic injectables, effective treatments for gynecological concerns, as well as marketing and regulatory issues. These were delivered by leading authorities in their field as well as an excellent panel session that attracted great support and enthusiasm from delegates. Key highlights included renowned dermatologist Professor Greg Goodman and Professor Rod Sinclair. Professor Goodman presented a compelling presentation on new advances in non-surgical rejuvenation and cuttingedge protocols for achieving successful treatment outcomes. Professor Sinclair presented new advances in hair transplant surgery that deliver a more natural outcome. Ms Kate Gillman presented the alarming statistics relating to cosmetic medicine and AHPRA’s position. Several experts participated on a very interesting Panel Session that viewed matters pertaining to the oversight and regulation of the cosmetic medicine industry. The panel included Dr APJ 110
Doug Grose CPCA President, who chaired the panel. Professor Goodman, Bruce Battye – NSW Minister of Health, Kate Gillman – the legal representative of AVANT Medical Insurance and John Javorniczky, regulator from ARPANSA who all presented their concerns and recommendations of the current status of the regulatory framework and areas requiring improving. There was robust discussion with regards to insufficient regulatory restrictions that also resulted in the death of Ms Huang in Sydney who underwent a botched filler procedure for breast enhancement delivered by a Chinese tourist with no medical qualifications in Australia. The review of the current regulations were discussed at length, as well as the need for tighter measures, was enthusiastically supported both by the panel, as well as the delegates who attended the conference. Further sessions were presented by Professor Goodman on comprehensive and necessary strategies for successful patient care in skin rejuvenation. Professor Goodman stressed the importance of a thorough and comprehensive consultation where the analysis takes into consideration the total needs of the patient, including their psychological assessment. From this information a personalised treatment plan should be developed that also includes a maintenance plan to support long-term results and this should be presented to the patient. A successful strategy should include the tools and approaches to optimise the patient’s appearance in a way that outcomes can
be measurable. In terms of facial analysis professor Goodman stressed that beauty is determined by: •
Volume: the most important consideration that defines beauty
•
Symmetry: while this is intriguing only 4 in 20 very beautiful people are symmetrical. The less volumetric side of the face is the worst side
•
Oval facial shape with a smooth jawline was considered the most beautiful for women across every culture
•
For men everything should emphasise angles: the chin should be de-ovalised. This is an area that if not adhered to can create a feminine appearance to the end enhancement results.
Professor Kurosh Parsi covered the latest advances in sclerotherapy, or surgery for varicose veins and discussed where ultrasound guided sclerotherapy fits. Dr Liang Joo Leow presented a compelling lecture on skin rejuvenation and pigmentary concerns using ultra-short picosecond pulses. In the case of tattoo removal Dr Sung Bin Cho discussed the use of picosecond domain l064-nm NDYAG laser using tissuemimicking phantom.
Dr Adam Rish discussed effective ways of treating facial fat. Managing acne and does diet matter? This was presented by Dr Doug Grose who shared some of his experiences and new protocols. New techniques using dermal fillers and muscle relaxant was also presented by Dr Adam Rish. Saturday night included a Gala Dinner celebration that allowed for some fun and valuable networking among the delegates and the speakers. This year’s conference program covered an excellent crosssection of topics, was highly engaging and provided quality educational, evidence-based content. Indeed, an energetic and highly successful event. APJ For further information and to view the 2018 program please contact: DC CONFERENCES PTY LTD Suite 103, Level 1, 3-5 West Street, North Sydney NSW PO Box 637, North Sydney 2059 Phone: 02 9954 4400 Fax: 02 9954 0666 lcmc2017@dcconferences.com.au APJ 111
SCIENTIFIC NEWS
Research and Scientific New Developments
In this segment Terry will not only present interesting current scientific findings from the research community, but also at the end of each section, he will include useful comments so when your clients may mention something they have read, you will be in an advantageous position to give the correct facts and increase your value to the client.
THE DANGERS OF NON-MEDICAL LASER THERAPY FOR PIGMENTED LESIONS A report in the Medical Journal of Australia stated that cosmetic clinics are putting people at risk by lasering pigmented skin lesions without medical assessment, dermatologists warn. In one case, a woman with an 18-month history of a growing pigmented lesion underwent laser removal without prior medical assessment. The lesion returned and finally was diagnosed as melanoma. More and more cosmetic clinics are advertising laser treatment for moles, says co-author Dr Yan Pan, of the Victorian Melanoma Service at Alfred Health. Some clinics are not having lesions assessed by medical practitioners and the aesthetic industry is increasingly treating pigmented lesions as cosmetic in nature. Clinics are often aware that “ugly” moles require medical assessment, says Dr Adrian Lim, Dean of Education at the Australasian College of Dermatologists, but malignant lesions are less obvious. It is noted that in most
and treated as such. Sadly, there are many variants of malignant melanoma that are flat and do not conform to the usual identification of such lesions. Unless you are well versed in lesion identification, then never IPL/LASER over any lesion, no matter how benign and simple it may present. We must require a high standard of training and recognition, or else the doctors will have laser use removed from those without APHRA recognition. APJ
MELANOMAS MOSTLY FROM NEW SPOTS RATHER THAN EXISTING ONES A new study confirmed that many melanomas do not grow from existing moles and skin growths, but from new ones. An analysis of results from 38 published studies that together looked at 20,126 cases of melanomas revealed that less than one third, or 29.1 per cent of all the melanoma cases came from an existing mole or spot. 70.9% came from new growths.
states, cosmetic clinics can operate medical lasers without a specific licence, or any verifiable training or experience. Bala, H. Pan, Y. Nixon, R. (2017). The dangers of nonmedical laser therapy for pigmented lesions. Medical Journal of Australia. 206. 5. p229. doi: 10.5694/mja16.01156 The concern here is that this is another occurrence of medical profession wanting control of who uses IPL/LASER. While I do hope anyone performing IPL/LASER treatment, would refer a person with a growing lesion to a medical professional for diagnosis, this is less likely to happen if the lesion is flat and seen as hyperpigmentation
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Pampena, R. Kyrgidis, A. Lallas, A. Moscarella, E. Argenziono, G. Longo, C. (2017). A metaanalysis of nevus-associated melanoma: Prevalence and practical implications. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology. 77. 5. pp 938– 945. DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.jaad.2017.06.149 While it has been known that MM can come from a new growth, the prevalence of such is a surprise. It is vital that people keep a careful eye for new growths over their skin to detect early stages of melanomas, needing regular skin selfexams and asking another to check for spots over backs and other areas that are difficult to see.
As with the above report, you really need to be aware of new lesions on your clients and do not treat until they have a medical diagnosis. A protective measure is to get your client provide you with a doctor’s report of diagnosis. APJ
AUSTRALIAN RESEARCHERS HELP TO STOPPING MELANOMA IN ITS TRACKS BODY CLOCKS CAUSES WOUNDS SUSTAINED AT NIGHT TO HEAL MORE SLOWLY Using a database from all major burns units in England and Wales, this study showed burns that happened at night took an average of 60% longer to heal than burns that occurred during the day, with night-time burns (8pm to 8am) classed as 95% healed after an average of 28 days, compared to only 17 days if the burn happened in the day (8am to 8pm). The researchers found a key reason for this faster healing was that skin cells moved to the site of the wound to repair it much faster during the body clock’s daytime. In daytime wounds, there was more collagen deposited at the wound site, which continued for up to two weeks after the wound occurred. The researchers noted that the cells’ internal circadian clocks must drive this process, not signals transmitted throughout the body, since human and mouse skin cells grown in a laboratory dish showed the same effect. Hoyle, N. Seinkmane, E. Putker,M. Feeney, K. Krogager,T. Chesham,J. Bray,L. Thomas,J. Dunn, K. Blaikley, J. O’neill, J. (2017). Circadian actin dynamics drive rhythmic fibroblast mobilization during wound healing. Science Translational Medicine. 9. 415. DOI: 10.1126/scitranslmed.aal2774 We know our body clocks, or circadian rhythm, regulate nearly every cell in the human body, driving 24-hour cycles in many processes such as sleeping, hormone secretion and metabolism. This study turns the ‘heals better at night’ thought upside down. Personally, I never believed the oft stated beauty myth that products will work better at night, because the body is resting, therefore better able to absorb ingredients for better results. APJ
A team of Australian researchers from the Melanoma Institute, Australia, along with researchers around the world, have made the (possible) ultimate move in the battle to beat melanoma, successfully trialling a combination of new treatments to stop the disease in its tracks and prevent it from spreading, or metastasising to distant organs. Researchers presented their results from two major trials termed COMBI-AD and CheckMate 238, that proved successful in preventing the spread of metastases in Stage III melanoma patients whose tumours had been surgically removed. Until now, these patients were at a high risk (40−70 per cent) of their disease progressing to advanced and fatal melanoma. J. Weber, M. Mandala, M. Del Vecchio, H.J. Gogas, A.M. Arance, C.L. Cowey, S. Dalle, M. Schenker, V. Chiarion Sileni, I. Marquez Rodas, J.-J. Grob, M.O. Butler, M.R. Middleton, M. Maio, V. Atkinson, P. Queirolo, R. Gonzalez, R.R. Kudchadkar, M. Smylie, N. Meyer, L. Mortier, M.B. Atkins, G.V. Long, S. Bhatia, C. Lebbé, P. Rutkowski, K. Yokota, N. Yamazaki, T.M. Kim, V. de Pril, J. Sabater, A. Qureshi, J. Larkin, and P.A. Ascierto (2017). Adjuvant Nivolumab versus Ipilimumab in Resected Stage III or IV Melanoma. The New England Journal of Medicine. [Epub ahead of print] September 10, 2017, at NEJM.org. DOI: 10.1056/ NEJMoa1709030. This is massive news given that one Australian dies from advanced, spreading melanoma every five hours. Both trails were randomised with the COMBI-AD patients receiving therapy of two drugs (dabrafenib and trametinib), or placebo for 12 months. These drugs block the action of the BRAF positive gene, which is a driver for melanoma. The CheckMate 238 trial involved the use of immunotherapy drugs, nivolumab or ipilimumab and benefit gained regardless of the patients BRAF mutation status. APJ APJ 113
AESTHETIC INDUSTRY BULLETIN Tattoo, Pigmentation and Skin Lesion Removal Specialisation
1. CLDCTR803 — Provide cosmetic and tattoo removal treatments with QSwitched laser 2. CLDSLR802 — Conduct non-invasive superficial skin lesion removal. 3. CLDPVI804 — Perform cosmetic light-based therapies for pigmentation and vascular irregularities. For further information phone Clinical Therapies and Laser Institute 1800 628 999 APJ
THE LAUNCH OF A NEW QUALIFICATIONS IN DERMAL THERAPIES Clinical Therapies and Laser Institute, a Registered Training Organisation is please to announce the ASQA approval of their latest educational qualification. The 10693NAT Graduate Certificate in Cosmetic Lasers and Dermal Therapies has been nationally approved and is positioned as a Level 8 under the Australian Qualifications Standards. The new qualification will enable practitioners to advance their knowledge and skills in dermal therapies to a nationallyapprove qualification standard. Here is a brief outline of what this qualification will offer: The 10693 NAT Graduate Certificate in Cosmetic Lasers and Dermal Therapies includes below 4 Core Units plus your choice of 2 electives from Stream 1, OR Stream 2: Core Units
1. HLTINF005 — Maintain infection prevention for skin penetration treatments 2. CLDECP806 — Perform enzyme and chemical peels in a clinical setting 3. SIBBHRS705A — Apply intense pulsed light and laser safety protocols 4. CLDSTC807 — Apply skin tightening and body contouring techniques Stream 1: for Graduate Certification in Cosmetic Lasers and Dermal Therapies Anti-Ageing and Skin Rejuvenation Specialisation
1. SIBBHRS707A — Provide intense pulsed light and Laser hair reduction treatments 2. CLDCDN801 — Provide dermal needling to treat skin irregularities 3. CLDSRR805 — Perform skin rejuvenation and resurfacing with fractional laser or Radio Frequency Stream 2: for Graduate Certification in Cosmetic Lasers and Dermal Therapies
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WHAT ARE THE BIGGEST GLOBAL TRENDS IN BEAUTY? The ever-changing world of beauty continues to evolve, and another year of reporting on trends, brands, and products comes into full swing as analysts from Kline delved into the research for the 43rd edition of the Cosmetics & Toiletries USA report, which encompasses five product classes and 18 product categories. While many of the new trends and developments are category-specific, a few stood out during the year that are highlighted below: Beauty + Tech – A Happy Marriage: The merging of the world of beauty and technology — augmented reality (AR) and virtual reality (VR) — become substantive in beauty as makeup cams help consumers get a one-touch makeover in real time. MAC partners with Modiface for the Virtual Makeover in its stores, while Sephora’s AR application allows consumers to tap and try products with the Virtual ARTIST. Digital formats, particularly in fast-paced and advancing specialty stores, are a new attraction for consumers. With the aim of seamlessly incorporating digital into everything that they do, NYX partners with Samsung to launch Innovative Virtual Reality Makeup Tutorial, which allows consumers to shop for beauty in an entirely new way through VR to its stores, bringing NYX Professional Makeup fans closer to its brand ambassadors. Successful Digital-only Beauty Businesses: The year 2017 also saw the phenomenal success of online-only brands, such as Kylie Cosmetics and Glossier. Through nearly 100 million Instagram followers, Kylie Cosmetics becomes the fastest-
This section presents the latest news, training dates and other Aesthetic Industry information
growing beauty brand through the launch of its products online, while Glossier achieves a cult status through its millennial-facing voice, close relationship with consumers, and conversations with its digital community. Beauty for All Colours and Ethnicities: Beauty is becoming increasingly inclusive and a proof of that is the launch and sell-out of products by Rihanna’s beauty brand — Fenty Beauty. Fenty Beauty began selling at Sephora with an appeal of reaching all consumers with shades from light to very dark, reaching consumers of all colours and ethnicities. Our new Multicultural Beauty and Grooming takes a close look at the upand-coming multicultural brands that are making great strides in the market. Beyond Beauty, Nutricosmetics: Often referred to as ingestible beauty, or beauty supplements, nutricosmetics are taking the notion of beauty from within further. An array of products that serve different purposes, from promoting reduction in fine lines, to improving skin texture, to achieving lustrous, thick, and strong growing hair and nails are flooding the market to address the needs of experimental consumers. We are witnessing the introduction of protein powders by Burt’s Bees and the Noni Glow Skinfood Dietary Supplements by Kora Organics. This is a rapidly developing market that promises beauty from within through the use of beauty supplements. Beauty Influencers: Influencers become new brand creators. Huda Kattan, a top Instagram influencer with 23.5 million followers, becomes the first influencer to land a major funding deal with her brand Huda Beauty. Active Beauty becomes a hot trend as brands such as Tarte, Clinique, and Sweat Cosmetics promote products specifically for fitness. The fascination with cosmetics is attracting continue growth as consumers seek ways to make them feel and look better. While the on-line appear is, and will continue to be huge, the need for personal service and advice will always attract the discerning consumer who is seek a more thorough examination of their best choices. The professional market is a very different market, however, using social media and on-line platforms should be included as part of their client acquisition strategy. APJ
2017 at a gala event with 13 of Australia’s leading beauty companies receiving a prestigious MyFaceMyBody Award. The MyFaceMyBody, Global Aesthetic Awards are the pinnacle of the Aesthetic industry and are the largest and most internationally recognised industry awards program. Known as the ‘Oscars’ of the aesthetic industry, the awards celebrate and honour the best in the aesthetics business. The winners were judged by a panel of leading industry experts from around the globe including. The esteemed panel of judges were given the hard task of choosing from the hundreds of applicants in the brand categories from across Australia and New Zealand. The winners of the Australasia, MyFaceMyBody Brand Category Awards 2017 were: Best Customer Loyalty Program Winner: Derma Aesthetics Best Customer Service by a Manufacturer or Supplier Winner: Advanced Skin Technologyy Highly Commended: Advanced Cosmecuticals Best Customer Service Team Winner: Syneron Candela Highly Commended: Derma Aesthetics Best Marketing Support by Manufacturer or Supplier Winner: The Global Beauty Group Highly Commended: Alpha-H Best Sales Representative Winner: Anna Johnston - The Global Beauty Group Highly Commended: Mary O’Sullivan - Mondeal Aesthetics Best Training Program Winner: Ultraceuticals Highly Commended: The Australian Dermal & Laser Institute Distributor of the Year Winner: The Global Beauty Group APJ Highly Commended: Stratpharma The MyFaceMyBody Awards was brought to you by platinum partner, Syneron Candela, as well as The Medical Business Academy and silver partner, Aspect cosmeceuticals. The MyFaceMyBody Awards are held in Sydney, Los Angeles, London, and China to honour the achievements of those at the pinnacle of the aesthetic and beauty industries. APJ For the full list of State winners, or more information on MyFaceMyBody, the awards, TV show or images please visit the website at http://www. globalaestheticawards.com/au
2018 MYFACEMYBODY BRAND AWARDS The winners of the ‘Brand Category’ of the Australasian MyFaceMyBody Awards we announced in November APJ 115
ANTI-AGEINGTREATMENTS
THE MANIFESTATIONS OF FACIAL AGEING By Tina Viney AS we age our features change and while our work as skin therapists is to improve the overall health and look of the skin, it is important to understand that the skin is only one component that is affected by ageing. In fact, ageing will impact three specific areas. By understanding these it will be easier to choose the best treatment for rejuvenation and also, identify when what we offer has reached its limits and it is time for referral for more invasive procedures. Working in the aesthetics industry today requires that we work collaboratively with other professionals and liaise and transition the treatment plan to involve, not just the work of the aesthetician, but also health practitioners who can collectively allow us to meet our clients’ highest expectations. This is why our education and knowledge should not be limited to just what we do. Gaining an understanding of how the various modalities that may be outside of our scope of practice can contribute to the overall plan for improving our clients’ appearance, will allow us to orchestrate the whole process and gain their trust and confidence for a long-term relationship with them. When addressing ageing of the face it is important to understand the contributing factors. There are three fundamental processes that occur in facial ageing:
1. Volumetric changes 2. skin damage/ageing 3. dynamic wrinkles
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VOLUMENTRIC CHANGES WITH AGE If you compare a youthful face with an ageing face, the first thing you will notice is that with youth the face is plump, while the ageing face has hollows and overall volume loss. Volumetric change refers to changes in the overall fullness of our face. The underlying support provided by our skull and the fat located below the skin and integrated with the muscles are primarily responsible for the fullness of our face. As we age we will experience deterioration in several areas. These are: •
The density of the skin
•
The fat supporting the skin
•
The bone structures
It is important to realise that as we get older, both the shape of our skull changes as well as the bone density. When we are young, our face tends to be full, and in women especially, it has somewhat of a heart shape. Ageing of the skull is mostly characterised by loss of the cheekbones and loss of bone around the eye sockets. Changes in fat are most obvious from loss of volume in the cheeks, under eye hollows, and temples. Other areas are affected too, such as the forehead and lip. Loss of tissue in these areas means there is less to support the overlying skin and it sags, bunches, and folds. Some areas, however, gain fat instead of lose it. This is most evident under the chin. These areas can be treated with
threads or skin tightening technologies, such as RF or even Fraxel lasers. In some cases, liposuction may be an option.
SKIN AGEING As we age, our skin becomes weaker making it more likely to sag, bunch, and fold. Although our skin weakens naturally with time, the primary causes of skin damage are ultraviolet radiation from the sun and hormonal changes that contribute to collagen and elastin degeneration. Health issues may also contribute to premature ageing of the face as will poor diet. The most scientifically-validated ingredient to support skin health is retinoids, vitamin C, hyaluronic acid, antioxidants, peptides and procedures such as collagen induction therapy and resurfacing peels that stimulate growth factors. When these are combined with advanced technologies such as laser, IPL, sonophoresis, electroporation and LED light they can excite skin cells and achieve visible rejuvenation. By strengthening collagen and elastin fibres and improving hydration levels the skin will become more resistant to fine lines and wrinkles.
DYNAMIC WRINKLES Another consideration is dynamic wrinkling. Repeated skin movements can lead to signs of ageing. If you repeat a movement that results in a wrinkle enough times, you could end up with a more permanent wrinkle.
The most common areas to see this are on the forehead, in the frown, and around the eyes such as crows feet. It makes sense, then, to reduce movement in these areas. With set in wrinkles that are as a result of frowning of facial grimaces this is where injectables can offer great improvement, the most common are Botox, Dysport and Xeomin. However, it is always advisable to restore optimal skin hydration and overall skin health before proceeding with injectables. A less talked about, but also important cause of dynamic wrinkling is wrinkling caused by sleeping. At least one study has shown that repeatedly sleeping in a position that bunches your skin can cause wrinkles. Pillowcases made of satin fabrics that do not crease easily are considered a means of preventing skin wrinkling while you sleep.
BE A RESPONSIBLE PROFESSIONAL By understanding the contributing factors to facial ageing you will be able to prepare an appropriate treatment plan that clearly defines what you can offer your client and how working with other specialists as a team, you can achieve the best possible outcome that will meet with their expectations. Too often, practitioners find it difficult to recognise their limitations and persevere with on-going treatments that have reached their limit. This will be viewed as unprofessional by your client. Acknowledging that you will need to introduce your client to another practitioner for the next phase of their improvement will not make you redundant, in fact, your client will respect your knowledge and professionalism. APJ APJ 117
THE PILLARS OF AESTHETICS
And how your values can determine where you will excel By Tina Viney THERE is no doubt that most of us have entered this industry with great hopes and aspirations, however, moving into the profession as practitioners can have its challenges. You may have discovered that when it comes to the practical application of some of the modalities you have been trained in can be a delight, while others may be stressful and challenging. There is a reason for this. In this article I want us to explore some of these reasons and hopefully, discover how to make our journey a joy and everything we wanted it to be when we embarked on this profession.
IT ALL STARTS WITH UNDERSTANDING WHO YOU ARE At the core of each one of us as individuals are deep-seated desires that are usually aligned to our unique makeup, or natural gifts that we are born with. When we undersrand ourselves at this deeper level we will discover our highest values. To identify these ask yourself the following questions:
1. What is most important thing in your life that you could not live without? 2. What gets you excited? 3. What expresses you the most and comes easy to you? In terms of your profession it may be that you love caring for people, making them feel appreciated, comfortable and building their self-esteem. Doing this gives you a real buzz and you would be prepared to go the extra mile to make sure you can help someone at this fundamental level. Or perhaps you love making yourself and others look the most
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beautiful they can be. You love exploring creative and artistic ways to bring beauty to life in someone, or even yourself. You find the vehicle of artistry gets you really excited and you find it easy and personally rewarding to invest in your skillsdevelopment so that you can really excel in your artistic ability. On the other hand, you may love solving a problem for someone. Digging deep and finding solutions for tough and even ugly issues, such as a stubborn skin condition that have caused someone a lot of grief and pain. Finding answers for them is something that gives you a lot of personal fulfilment. You are drawn to research that can help provide you with answers to solve skin concerns that others may find overbearing and too difficult, but for you, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s different. You get a real buzz out of researching for solutions. There is a real energy there that makes the process rewarding and fun. Where you get the most enjoyment will be where you will find your highest values. Your profession should be focused around those modalities. This is because when what you do is aligned with your highest values, you will not need incentives and motivation to excel in those area. Work will become exciting and a real joy. Doing what may be a difficult task for someone else, can be quite easy for you. You will not get stressed easily, or need extensive external stimulus to achieve your goals. You will wake up and be excited to go to work. If this is happening to you, your highest values and your profession are in alignment. On the other hand, if you are doing tasks that drain you, that you find difficult to be successful in, or you constantly need heaps of motivation to achieve them, this is a sign that you are operating outside of your highest values. You will not be good
at these tasks and if you are, it will take a lot more effort and energy to do so. If at all possible it is best to delegate these to someone else.
THE PILLARS OF AESTHETICS Sometimes people have a perception that pursuing aesthetics as a profession is an easy path. However, when we understand the various disciplines that encompass this profession we discover some interesting facts that we need to consider. Let’s look at these more closely: Aesthetics as a profession is based around four key pillars of knowledge and skills. These are Science, Artistry, Psychology and Business. Understanding these specific areas and measuring them up against your highest values will allow you to understand what you should look at specialising in and what modalities you will be the most suited to and able to excel in. This is because when your profession and your highest values are aligned you will in fact, be expressing yourselves through your profession. It doesn’t mean that you will never experience challenges in these areas, but finding solutions and being “really good” at these areas will be so much more enjoyable and easy to achieve. Let’s look at the four pillars in greater detail:
SCIENCE Regardless as to the level of qualifications that you will pursue, either as an aesthetician, or dermal therapist, you will need to have a solid understanding of science. Anatomy and physiology is paramount to your profession because you are not working on an innate object – you will be working on live, human beings, so understanding their makeup is critical. You will be required to gain knowledge in understanding the skin, it’s pathophysiology and disorders of the skin that you may be presented when dealing with your clients. You will also need to study the chemistry of cosmetic formulations as you will need to have a thorough knowledge on specific ingredients and how they will impact the skin. Physics will also be extended to technologies you may be working with in order to achieve treatment outcomes. You will also be required to complete units on nutrition, diet, stress management and simple strategies to improve overall wellbeing, including body massage will most likely be included as a modality that you will be required to complete.
ARTISTRY Whether you are working on improving the texture and condition of the skin your aim will always be to improve your clients’ appearance. Having an artistic flair and an eye for detail will be useful for mastering the artistry of cosmetic application and procedures that will aim at creating balance and harmony of the person’s features, making the individual look fresher and more youthful. Understanding symmetry and balance is important as is understanding skin colouring and colour theory.
PSYCHOLOGY When dealing with individuals the state of their wellbeing will be directly associated with their mental and emotional wellbeing. How well they manage stress in their life and the impact this will have on their appearance, their energy levels, weight and how they feel about themselves should be important to you as their aesthetician or dermal therapist. If you want to assist your client to achieve maximum benefit from their treatments, the role of compassion, empathy, and communicating with them with mindfulness will be key in ensuring that they leave you in a better state than when they came. Our mental and emotional state will directly influence our confidence and self-esteem. We
can never really look good if we feel bad about ourselves. Our inner views, feelings and emotions are reflected outwardly and if these are negative and insecure, they will lead others to view us in the same way. A fundamental knowledge of psychology can be very helpful and should be an integral part of your treatment outcome objectives.
ALIGNMENT TO YOUR HIGHEST VALUES Each one of us have strengths and weaknesses. By identifying what we really love doing and require no external motivation to perform these tasks, will allow us to achieve a rewarding career around those strengths and achieve incredible success with greater ease. For example, if you have a love for science and research, pursuing skin treatment solutions will be an excellent alignment for you where your values and inner strength will have expression through modalities that will allow you to problemsolve in the area of resolving skin issues. If you have a real passion for making people look beautiful, then you will do well in pursuing cosmetic tattooing, lash enhancement, or being a makeup artist will suit you well and you will be able to achieve exceptional work with great enjoyment and a feeling of being personally and professionally rewarded. If you find yourself having great compassion and empathy for individuals, you may find a real niche in developing stress management techniques and specialising in modalities that allow you to be of value to others, while fulfilling your highest values. You may choice modalities such as specialising in nipple areola tattooing with cancer patients. Or perhaps hair removal for individuals who suffer from Polycystic Ovary Syndrome (PCOS) and the trauma of having to live with excessive hair growth that you can assist them with through laser or IPL hair reduction. We hear of numerous stories, even presented in this journal, when a strategic hair removal program has transformed the life of someone with POS, which has resulting in a feeling of incredible gratification for the practitioners. Even though a highly empathetic person can find great fulfilment in specialising and working with traumatised individuals with medical conditions, I believe that empathy should be cultivated by every practitioner as it is a fundamental core need that everyone can benefit from.
BUSINESS SKILLS There is one more pillar that I believe is also important and that is the skill of business development, money-management and people management. Most individuals who chose to enter a career in personal services often leave the business management to others. If this is not their strength this is a wise move to delegate it to someone who is. However, as a business owner, you will need to invest in your knowledge on successful business strategies, as ultimately you are responsible for the success, or failure of your business.
CONCLUSION I trust this article has given you food for thought. I do recognise that sometimes in small business you have to do some tasks that you don’t like. However, as you plan on growing your business, make sure what is not your strength is the first task you delegate to someone you can hire, who is. APJ
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NUTRITIONALHERBS
ADAPTOGENS NATURE’S MIRACLE ANTI-STRESS AND FATIGUE FIGHTERS By Tina Viney STRESS and fatigue are at an all-time high and their continued rise in our society is reaching epidemic proportions. Meanwhile, the proliferation of coffee shops is constantly on the rise as clearly, caffeine and sugar are what a lot of us use to try and achieve a quick fix. While sugar and caffeine can offer a lift, the crash is never far behind. Fortunately, there are healthier ways to get through the day with the help of some amazing herbs that are classified as “adaptogens”. These are special herbs that help our body adapt to stress and resist fatigue. I am an avid user of these herbs and I have found them true to their promise. Indeed, they help me get more mileage from my day as they minimise the impact of stress during my usual busy days. I first became aware of adaptogens and their benefit in helping manage stress at one of the Australasian Academy of Antiageing Medicine (A5M) Conference program. In fact, much of the educational information I have gained is by attending these incredible events. A5M Conference always deliver excellent evidence-based, scientifically-sound content at all their event. Coming back to the adaptogens, I have found studying these herbs quite incredible, so I would like to share some information here that could be of help to both you and possibly, of benefit to your clients.
WHAT ARE ADAPTOGENS? Adaptogens are a unique group of herbal ingredients used to improve the health of your adrenal system — the system that’s in charge of managing your body’s hormonal response to stress. They help strengthen the body’s response to stress and enhance its ability to cope with anxiety and fight fatigue, slowly and gently, without jolts or crashes. They’re called adaptogens because of their unique ability to “adapt” their function according to your body’s specific needs. Though the effects may initially be subtle and take time to make themselves felt, they’re real and undeniably effective. Unlike big pharma drugs, adaptogens weren’t born yesterday. In fact, they’ve been used in Chinese and Indian Ayurvedic medicine for centuries, to boost energy and resilience in the
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face of stress. Recently, several studies have found evidence to support what those of us in the sustainable wellness field already knew — that adaptogens offer positive benefits and are safe for long-term use.
HOW DO THEY WORK? Adaptogens work a little like a thermostat. When the thermostat senses that the room temperature is too high it brings it down; when the temperature is too low it brings it up. Adaptogens can calm you down and boost your energy at the same time without over-stimulating. They can normalise body imbalances. By supporting adrenal function, they counteract the adverse effects of stress. They enable the body’s cells to access more energy, help cells eliminate toxic byproducts of the metabolic process and help the body to utilise oxygen more efficiently. In short, their benefits are invaluable.
WHICH ONE ARE THE BEST TO USE? While there are several individual herbs, experts suggest that a combination of at least three offer the best results. However, I have used them individually and found that they work well. The ones that have the best scientific evidence-based profile include: Asian Ginseng, Eleuthero, Ashwaghanda, Rhodiola Rosea, Holy Basil, Amla and Cordyceps. Depending on your needs and physical condition you will find that each one has slightly different properties. However, it is always wise to first consult your doctor if you are also taking other medication for stress. To help you understand the function of adaptogenic herbs here is a brief outline of the most effective:
ASIAN GINSENG For thousands of years, Asian Ginseng has been one of the most valued (and
expensive) medicinal plants in the world. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s believed to affect the body by influencing metabolism within individual cells, and it has been studied extensively for its ability to help the body withstand stress. Western herbalists say that it restores and strengthens the bodyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s immune response, promotes longevity, and enhances the growth of normal cells. Research indicates that it promotes a sense of well-being and may protect against some kinds of cancer. Caution: At the recommended dose, ginseng is generally safe. Occasionally it may cause agitation, palpitations or insomnia. Consuming large amounts of caffeine with large amounts of ginseng may increase the risk of over-stimulation and gastrointestinal upset. If you have high blood pressure, your blood pressure should be monitored when taking it. Ginseng is not recommended for pregnant or breastfeeding women. Properties: Increases energy, lowers blood sugar, antiinflammatory and sharpens cognitive function.
ELEUTHERO Eleuthero is used in traditional Chinese medicine for muscle spasms, joint pain, insomnia, and fatigue. In Germany, its use is approved for chronic fatigue syndrome, impaired concentration, and convalescing after illness. Western herbalists note that it improves memory, feelings of well-being and can lift mild depression. Caution: As with Asian ginseng, Eleuthero is generally safe. But occasionally it has been associated with agitation, palpitations
or insomnia in patients with cardiovascular disorders. If you have high blood pressure, your blood pressure should be monitored when taking it. It is not generally recommended for pregnant or breastfeeding women, even though limited research hasnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t turned up evidence of harmful effects in the foetus. Properties: Eleuthero contains powerful phytochemicals like sterols, coumarins, flavonoids, and polysaccharides. Each of these compounds have unique healing potential, and when combined, they increase oxygen availability at the cellular level, encouraging blood flow, immune response and antioxidant effects that protect your DNA.
ASHWAGANDHA Ashwagandha has been used for thousands of years in Ayurvedic medicine. Like Asian ginseng, ashwagandha is used to help increase vitality, energy, endurance and stamina, promote longevity, and strengthen the immune system. Today, herbalists often recommend it for people with high blood pressure, insomnia, chronic fatigue syndrome, and impotence associated with anxiety or exhaustion. It enhances endocrine function, especially the thyroid and adrenals. Ayurvedic healers have long prescribed the herb to treat exhaustion brought on by both physical and mental strain. Caution: Avoid during pregnancy or if you are taking sedatives or if you have severe gastric irritation or ulcers. Also people who are sensitive to the nightshade group of plants should be careful.
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Properties: Tonic for mental and physical stamina and resilience, boosts immune function, mood and longevity.
RHODIOLA ROSEA
Properties: Liver and kidney protectant, immune aid, fertility tonic, fatigue remedy
Rhodiola rosea acts like a hormone thermostat, especially as it pertains to cortisol, one of our main stress hormones. It is believed that cortisol, which is secreted in sync with our circadian rhythms is usually, if not always, out of balance when you’re stressed out and exhausted. This means the cortisol level is either too high when it should be low, or not high enough when we need more. Getting your cortisol back in rhythm when you’re compromised is crucial and Rhodiola literally helps balance the cortisol levels in your body, raising or lowering it as needed. That’s why this herb is particularly useful for treating stressed out indidivuals. What’s more, rhodiola has demonstrated a remarkable ability to support cellular energy metabolism. It positively affects brain function, depression, and heart health. In my experience, most patients who take rhodiola start feeling better within a few weeks to a month. Caution: Avoid if you have manic depression or are bipolar. Rhodiola is not recommended for pregnant or breastfeeding women. Although it’s unusual, at high doses rhodiola can cause insomnia. Properties: Antiviral, nervine, immune stimulant, heart tonic, neuroprotectant.
AMLA Sometimes known as amalaka, or Indian gooseberry, amla is a popular Ayurvedic tonic believed to prolong youthfulness, life, and good memory. It also has a reputation for increasing resistance to disease and nourishing the blood, and is considered an especially effective tonic for restoring the appetite, supporting liver health, and supporting the health of the bones, teeth, and hair. Amla is rich in vitamin C and other antioxidants. Properties: It’s key properties are anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, antiviral and mild laxative.
CORDYCEPS Cordyceps is a type of fungus that colonises on caterpillars. It has been used in Traditional Chinese Medicine APJ 122
to support kidney heath and treat infertility, sexual dysfunction, dizziness, and fatigue. Today, it's used mainly to boost athletic performance and immunity, and as a kidney and lung tonic.
HOLY BASIL Also known as Tulsi, Holy Basil is considered one of India's most powerful herbs, and has been used in Ayurvedic medicine for more than 3,000 years. In addition to its traditional use as a tonic, Indian folk medicine recommends tulsi tea as an expectorant for bronchitis and to ease upset stomach and vomiting. Modern herbalists mostly employ tulsi for issues related to the nervous system, including to support memory, recovery from head trauma, and as a treatment for depression. Tulsi's immune-stimulating properties also make it helpful for environmental allergies. Properties: Nervine, immune system tonic, antioxidant, antiviral, carminative (gas reliever), diuretic, expectorant.
MACA Maca is a root vegetable grown in Peru, is widely believed to be an adaptogen. For the most part, it is valued for increasing libido and hormonal health in men and women, although the mechanism is not yet understood. Preliminary research into the eight different varieties of maca shows that each type has a slightly different profile of vitamins, minerals, and other factors. Properties: Aphrodisiac and nutritive nerve tonic
CONCLUSION In today’s stressful world adaptogenic herbs can offer great support to our nervous system and invaluable relief from the impact of the stresses of everyday life. However, as with every natural remedy appropriate formula and correct doses are important. APJ
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