APJ Vol 35 2017

AESTHETICS

PRACTITIONERS The official publication of the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd ISSN: 1836-9812

Summer Volume 35. 2017

Journal

HOW IS THE COSMETIC TATTOO INDUSTRY MEASURING UP?

APJ 1

OUR REGULAR APJ CONTRIBUTERS TERRY EVERITT Terry Everitt is regarded as a ‘Master Skincare Professional’ due to his extensive knowledge in the art and science of skincare. A very competent educator and regular lecturer on aesthetic and medical conferences where he presents up-to-date information from an evidence-based scientific perspective. Terry is the Director of Aesthetic Educators Pty Ltd. To contact Terry you can email him at aestheticeducators@gmail.com.

CAROLINE NELSON Caroline Nelson is a beauty industry expert with over 40 years industry experience. She specialises and is passionate in helping clinics and spas develop their brand, improve productivity, and increase bottom-line profit. To learn more about her step-by-step program for salon spa success visit www.SalonSpaBusiness.com or phone 041 0600 440.

GAY WARDLE Gay Wardle is a well-known multi-awarding winning industry expert and a renowned lecturer who conducts advanced skin analysis training for businesses and their staff on all issue pertaining to skin science. If you would like you and your staff to undertake training with Gay please contact Gay on 0418 708 455 or book online at www.gaywardle.com.au. You can also email her on gay@m-da.com.au.

JACINE GREENWOOD Jacine Greenwood is an internationally recognised educator who is known within the industry for her up-to-date knowledge and her ability to deliver training in an easy to understand method. Jacine holds six Diplomas, including a Diploma of Cosmetic Chemistry and a Bachelor of Nursing. Her knowledge is highly respected in the cosmetic industry. With over 22 years experience in the industry and a background of cosmetic formulation, Jacine has an immense knowledge of current trends in research and new developments in the industry. Contact her on 07 3807 1429 or email jacine@roccoco.com.au.

DR ZAC TURNER Dr Zac Turner has a broad medical background specialising in regenerative and aesthetic medicine. Aesthetically, Dr Zac feels that a natural look is best, and truly believes that his ‘less-ismore’ approach. Dr Zac is involved in both the men’s health and preventative health space. He sees prevention and body optimisation as the ultimate way to prevent chronic disease, obesity, and many other conditions. He has owned and is currently involved with clinics in the holistic health arena and believes that through an holistic assessment of someone’s health we can enable them to live longer, healthier, and happier. Contact Dr Zac by Email: zac@drzac.co.

TRISH HAMMOND Trish Hammond is an award-winning blog and social media expert and the director of Plastic Surgery Hub. She is renowned for her skilful writing and interviews in all facets of the social media space. Her company specialises in the Aesthetics, Cosmetic Surgery and Cosmetic Medicine industry sectors for which she provides personalised and comprehensive services to help businesses communicate powerfully, grow their brand and capture new clients and patients.

If you would like to speak to Trish about your blogging needs please contact her on 0429 264 811 or Email info@plasticsurgeryhub.com.au.

APJ 4

IN THIS ISSUE SUMMER VOLUME 35. 2017 INDUSTRY REPORTS, NEWS AND PRODUCTS 8-9

Heart-2-Heart

12-15

Cover story

38-39

The Power of Two

76-79

Product Innovations

98-99

A Gem in Gunnedah

REGULATIONS, STANDARDS AND EDUCATION SCIENTIFIC RESEARCH, TREATMENTS AND TECHNOLOGY 18 Inflammageing and Ways to Mitigate this Problem 22-23 Why the Skin Needs Environmental Protection 24

The Science of Summer

40-42 Skin peeling – Benefits and Precautions 66-68

The Amazing Benefits of Buckwheat for Skin and Health

70-73 The Omega Oil Factor for Skin and Health 84-86

The Amazing Properties of Frankincense and Myrrh Esential Oils

88-89

Gold in Cosmetic Formulations

90-91

Visceral Massage: The Natural Detoxification Treatment

94-97

Focus on the Decolletage

102-103

Hyaluronic Acid – Does Size Matter?

104-108

Scientific News

118-122

Are You Taking Advantage of the New Booming Consumer Trend?

24-25

Gene Expression and How You Can Control Their Activity

47-51 Aesthetics, Cosmetic Medicine and

Surgery – Current and Future Regulatory Changes 62-64

The Dos in Skincare

80-82 What Constitutes a Qualification –

Developing a Strong Future for

the Australian Cosmetic Tattooing Industry 100-101

Exercise and Skin Health

110-113

Aesthetics Bulletin

BUSINESS AND PERSONAL AND PROFESSIOAL DEVELOPMENT 26-27

Increasing Your Client Attraction Through Low-Cost Marketing

52-57

Tips for Better Business

58-59

Steps to Burnout Recover

92-93

Mindful Leadership in the Workplace

98-100

Contract Law

114-116

Becoming an Exceptional Leader

117 Five Most Common Blogging Mistakes People Make

SEMINARS, EXPOS AND CONFERENCES 20-21

APAN Aesthetics Conference GC and Sydney 2018

28

We Want Your Star

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EDITOR’S NOTE

By Katherine McCann SURELY I am not alone when I say that this time of the year is my favorite. From long sunny days, cool summer breezes and nature inviting us to explore landscapes and seashores.

Traditionally, December and January are typically the holiday season when many allow themselves to spend a little extra money, invest in some extended rest and recreation and take a little extra care of themselves. Of course, it is also a popular season for weddings and other family celebrations.

I do hope that you are gearing up to make the most of this season with amazing treatments and offerings for your clients. In this issue of APJ we feature several great scientific articles on skincare and treatment options.

We also feature great information on body treatments and ways to support the overall health and wellbeing of the body. Research is bringing to light incredible information that can enrich our understanding of how to live life with greater meaning and purpose through simple strategies that can mitigate toxicity from our cells and support our immune system for better health. These articles makes interesting reading. Of course, you can pass on your knowledge to your clients and enhance your engagement with them.

They will appreciate you for your skills and recongnise you for the expert they can turn to for advice and answers.

We also have excellent business articles with great tips for improving business performance, as well as a great article on mindfulness for better relationships and productivity in the workplace. Neuro-science is now identifying the value of improved connection that can enhance the quality of relationships both personally and professionally.

The articles in APJ are sometimes lengthy — this is because our policy is to ensure you receive comprehensive information that is not governed by a word count, but by content.

In today’s competitive climate practitioners’ knowledge must be viewed as expert and scientifically-sound and we want to support you in this way.

I can assure you that APAN is vigilant in protecting your future on so many levels. Our pursuits in the regulatory space is on-going and we are now starting to see some light at the end of the tunnel where our hard work is slowly starting to see emerging positive outcomes. In saying this, I can assure

“Kindness in words creates confidence, Kindness in thinking creates profoundness, Kindness in giving creates love.”

you that 2018 is going to be a very exciting year. Look out for forthcoming announcements early in the year as many of our initiatives with start to take form.

Just reading the quote above provides me with a moment to step back and grasp the opportunity to gain a bit of a perspective on what is important to me. We are all so busy being busy in our lives, but it’s important to take stock and remind ourselves that despite our own agendas, kindness shouldn’t be a temporary exercise, but one that allows us to experience meaningful and enriched connections with others and not for just temporary periods of joy. While this may appear simple, it is something we need to practice in order to continue growing, transforming and being better human beings.

On behalf of APAN and our team we extend our warmest wishes and complements of the season. May it be a safe, happy and memorable one. APJ

fl www.apanetwork.com | info@apanetwork.com APJ 6

WELCOME TO APJ Editor Katherine McCann (07) 5593 0360 info@apanetwork.com www.apanetwork.com

AESTHETICS

PRACTITIONERS The official publication of the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd ISSN: 1836-9812

Summer Volume 35. 2017

Journal

Typesetting & Graphics Angus Thompson TEV Group Advertising & Marketing Tina Viney Phone: (07) 5593 0360 info@apanetwork.com Fax:(07) 5593 0367 Mobile: 0412 177 423 Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network PO Box 5448, Q Super Centre QLD 4218 Australia Publisher TEV Group Pty Ltd Design & Production Artwork and Editorial TEV Group Pty Ltd Unit 7D 76-84 Robina Town Centre Drive, Robina QLD 4226 Australia Phone: (07) 5593 0360 info@apanetwork.com Fax:(07) 5593 0367 Mobile: 0412 177 423 Printed For Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network ACN: 136 987 169 ABN: 25 136 987 169 Accounts Payable Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network PO Box 5448, Q Super Centre QLD 4218 Journal Advisory Board Terry Everitt - Education Features Wendy Neely - PR and Marketing Dr Douglas Grose - Scientific Content Caroline Nelson - Business Features National Advisory Council John Fergusson Terry Everitt Bill Anton Gill Fish Vanessa Kirkham Maureen Houssein-Mustafa ISSN: 1836-9812 Pint Post Approved [100000257] Circulation 6900

HOW IS THE COSMETIC TATTOO INDUSTRY MEASURING UP?

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Front Cover Distributed by THink Aesthetics (07) 3300 0465 info@thinkaesthetics.com.au www.thinkaesthetics.com.au For further information see pages 12 -15

The Aesthetics Practitioners Journal is the official publication of the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd, a network organisation established to service the needs of the aesthetics industry in the area of professional development and business networking. The Aesthetics Practitioners Journal is published quarterly for the benefit of its members and subscribers and aims to inform and educate its members on better business practices and industry advancements.

All editorials and articles that are submitted for publishing remain the property of Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd. Reproduction in part or in whole is not permitted without prior written authorisation by the publishers. Every effort has been made to ensure that all scientific and technical information presented is as accurate as possible at the time of publishing. However, members and readers are highly recommended to also seek external advice from their accountant, registered financial adviser or healthcare professional for their recommendations.

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Heart-to-Heart

A message from the President and CEO THERE is no doubt that pursuing the road towards establishing standard and regulations for our industry is fraught with many hurdles. While it is a tedious and difficult one, because of its importance, the pursuit must never be abandoned. I for one have no intention of walking away from the fight.

We recently hired a new staff member who is in charge of design and operations and I introduced my self as “a woman with a mission” and this pretty much sums me up. Indeed, I have no intention of abandoning our efforts towards a more regulated industry until we achieve an outcome. Our industry desperately needs protection and businesses need support to secure the future of the aesthetics profession and their financial growth.

In late October we met up with Katrina Smith from Queensland Health and David Gould from the Diseases Unit, Public Health, Infectious Diseases and Epidemiology at our offices in Queensland. We discussed the current microblading position and how short-courses in this procedure are contributing to an incredible amount of unrest in the industry, but we were also told that the lack of uniform standards are also of great concern to the Health Department.

Mr Gould also told us that at a recent Environmental Health Conference the issue of Cosmetic Tattooing was raised.

Meanwhile, the National Industrial Chemicals Notification and Assessment Scheme (NICNAS) also contacted us seeking information for a report they are conducting investigating Cosmetic Tattooing pigments as they are reviewing their safety levels. A report on their findings is anticipated to be released in the next few months.

We are definitely on the government’s radar, however, for regulatory changes to be finalised they need to go through numerous processes. Various government departments have to do their own investigation and signing-off before it goes to the next level. Then the case will need to be presented to the appropriate minister and then tabled at a Cabinet

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meeting and debated at the various levels. Even if the process reaches this far, there is still a chance that it may be pushed to a back bench, particularly if there is a change of government.

The discussions with both Katrina Smith and David Gould were very fruitful. They both confirmed that the move now from various Health Departments is towards establishing uniformity across various state jurisdictions. While we discussed both Queensland, as well as other states, they confirmed that the basis of Health Regulations is similar, with just slight differences in interpretations from state-to- state.

It terms of microblading, it was mutually agreed that this unit should officially become part of cosmetic tattoo training and we should pursue this when the training package is up for review and put forward that recommendation.

The issue of a large number of businesses and practitioners who were non-compliant to the various processes and licensing requirements was raised. To assist with this problem we offered our support by requesting a summary of the various licensing and jurisdiction requirements be sent to us so that we can also formally communicate this information to the industry. As we are a national body, we will be approaching various states to ensure that we inform members on their particular jurisdiction requirements.

INDUSTRY SELF-REGULATORY BODY — AESTHETICS ACCREDITATION REGISTRY OF AUSTRALIA (AARA) There is common consensus between government ministers and APAN that the way forward for the industry is to establish its own independent registration board as a notfor-profit organisation.

This body would NOT be owned by one organisation, but by the industry as a whole. It will not replace existing associations or, standards bodies like APAN, rather it would work collaboratively with them for the benefit of the industry. This

“Coming together is a beginning, Staying together is progress, Working together is success.”

— Henry Ford body would represent the collective needs of the industry and establish the national standards and the scope of practice for the various modalities. It will become the national voice that the Government would turn to, to discuss issues that pertain to our industry. Practitioners will be invited to provide evidence of their various credentials and gain registration with this body for the modalities they perform. In essence, it will be the Aesthetics industry’s self-regulating body.

we need helpers. If you believe you would like to contribute in some capacity please let us know. Let’s make this happen.

A NEW APPROACH FOR APAN CONFERENCES 2018 APAN will be launching a new, more interactive conference program that will bring excitement and fun to the events. I will not go into details about that here. Check for further information in this journal.

We are currently working to establish the governance structure of this body and we are approaching various stakeholders for their support. It will be important for the industry that we reach a consensus for this solution if we are to move forward. The feedback so far has been very positive.

In preparation with what is about to unfold we want to launch several workshops to help with professional development and support practitioners to maintain and update their skills to meet the requirements of an ever-evolving industry.

Our aim is that by the end of this year we establish the foundations of this organisation and secure the input and involvement of stakeholders so that we can gain a comprehensive representation across the industry.

The aesthetics industry has such a bright future and there is so much value that we can offer the pubic with our services. However, to retain their respect we need to be able to provide them with evidence of the integrity of our skills and knowledge and this is where a national registration process that measures and confirms our credentials will be invaluable to us.

Once this is secured, we will then review our strategy in 2018 with the aim to establish the standards and prepare the formal operational launch of the organisation by 2019. The recommendation was that we call this body Aesthetics Accreditation Registry of Australia (AARA) as the name would clearly state its purpose. This will be an incredible step forward for the aesthetics industry with the potential of resolving many of the current problems that are challenging the reputation and the profession.

HELP US MAKE THIS HAPPEN With every membership fee to APAN a percentage goes towards our work for the pursuit of regulations. As we embark on this project APAN will be donating a percentage of members’ fees to the establishment of AARA. This is an industry initiative and we are in this together. Having our own accrediting registration body will create recognised minimum standards, uniformity of standard across all states and bring a level of order for our industry. Our industry will finally have self-regulations.

These are exciting times as we establish our own national self-regulatory body. Please join APAN, or renew your membership and help us support you in your business and secure your future. Be part of this incredible move. Together we can make it happen.

On behalf of all of us here at APAN our complements of the season. May 2018 be an amazing year for you continue your business and professional journey.

APJ

At this stage we need passionate people, we need funds and APJ 9

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APAN stands for High Standards and Best Practice

BE RECOGNISED AS THE BEST

Here is why smart business owners turn to APAN for advice: “In all my years in the industry I have never experienced a professional body that is so knowledgeable, easy to access and provides me with expert advice and solutions to some of my most challenging problems in my business. APAN has saved me thousands of dollars in legal fees and I have been able to source a wide range of quality documents to ensure my business is run efficiently and is fully-compliant with regulations. I now have peace of mind when dealing with staffing issues, client complaints and identifying ways of staying one-step-ahead of my competition. Their advice is professional, comprehensive, accurate and extensive.

The APAN ARAP and CTARP registrations further validate our staffs’ credentials and gives us a point-of-difference.

We pride ourselves on our qualifications and commitment to best practice. When an external industry standards body can validate this, it gives our clients confidence that their needs are in the best hands. APAN is recognised as the peak body that fights for us at all levels, including the difficult task of regulations. Membership fees are affordable. They provide me with the best investment for my business.” Jane Bishop, WA.

MEMBERSHIP HAS A VARIETY OF CLASSIFICATIONS FOR BUSINESSES AND PRACTITIONERS A Specialists Trademarked Registration Program offers additional recognition. These categories are subject to evidence of qualifications: •

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Why you should become an APAN Member?

EXPERT SUPPORT | REGULATIONS COMPLIANCE | REGULATORY REPRESENTATION | CONFERENCES AND WORKSHOPS | APJ JOURNAL | INSURANCE PROTECTION | BUSINESS SUPPORT

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CTARP APJ 11

COVERSTORY

THink Aesthetics

Janice Trainer

EXCELLENCE IN NATIONALLY-ACCREDITED COSMETIC TATTOO TRAINING IN AUSTRALIA THink Aesthetics is a Registered Training Organisation with a huge vision. Their purpose and objective is to make a difference in the area of quality assured standards in Cosmetic Tattooing in Australia.

We interviewed Robert McGowan, Chief Executive Officer of THink Aesthetics to share with us the values, goals and objectives of the organisation and what they aim to achieve through their training institution.

They are committed to working collaboratively with peak industry bodies in raising the standards of training, the integrity and the recognition of the Cosmetic Tattooing profession to world-class standards.

APJ Q1: ROBERT, YOU ARE THE CEO OF THINK AESTHETICS, CAN YOU PLEASE SHARE WITH US YOUR BACKGROUND AND HOW YOU GOT INVOLVED WITH AESTHETICS AND COSMETIC TATTOOING?

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Indeed this is a story! Probably the last place you would expect to find a geologist is in a cosmetic tattooing business! In fact, it was all through a very happy coincidence of circumstances.

In August 2015 I was laid off as Managing Director for URS Australia, an engineering and environmental consulting firm.

We had 600 staff and had been consumed as part of a global takeover. So, what next? The choice wasn’t too difficult.

Janice Trainer is my mother-in-law and a cosmetic tattooist and trainer with a tremendous reputation. I hadn’t appreciated how strong until I started a little ‘due diligence’. Janice was operating as a sole trader with the ever-increasing support from my eldest daughter Chalatice and my wife, Liz, who were often working late into the night. I’d been helping with some legal and contracts matters, but it wasn’t until I did my research that I realised, this cosmetic tattoo industry has amazing potential and Janice is a stand-out performer.

At this point there was a huge decision to make. Do I ‘knockback’ offers from engineering and consulting firms and make this new industry a career move? The answer of course was yes, and with it the decision to invest all my working time and a lot of money into turning a business run by a sole trader into a company that could make a lasting difference to a growing cosmetic tattoo industry in need of sophistication and support. And so THink Aesthetics was born.

Interestingly, despite knowing nothing of substance about cosmetic tattooing at the start, many of the skills from my former corporate life proved very transferable, including strategic planning, finance, contracts, human resource management and business development. Also, in evaluating cosmetic tattoo pigments, I think I’ve used more chemistry from my geology degrees than I have for 20 years!

APJ Q2: WHAT PROMPTED YOU TO SET UP A REGISTERED TRAINING ORGANISATION AND WHAT QUALIFICATIONS AND TRAINING DO YOU HAVE ON YOUR SCOPE? One of the first things Janice and Liz said to me when we talked about my involvement was the desire to become an RTO. There wasn’t a dedicated RTO specifically for cosmetic tattooing, so this would be a key point of difference and a

platform to drive change in a relatively unregulated industry that lacked much in the way of uniform standards – and the journey started.

I spoke to colleagues in my former professional world who said “don’t do it!”; it will take lots of time and money and drive you crazy! Well, I did think how hard can this be? 20 years earlier I had led the first office in the world (of 350) in my former firm to ISO9001 quality system accreditation.

How much harder could RTO accreditation be? My colleagues were right, and I was wrong. Starting from scratch was a huge effort. We were determined to build systems totally geared for the cosmetic tattoo industry, not just ‘offthe-shelf’ so that we could tick the accreditation boxes with the Australian Skills Quality Authority (ASQA).

We were also determined to make the building of an RTO an opportunity to get all our company systems properly organised and geared for growth. This meant new, or improved systems for accounting, bookings management, student records management, student and staff training and all the other things that make an RTO and company, function efficiently. It also meant recruiting staff with experience in quality assurance and IT to help build systems from scratch that suit the industry.

Of course, when you do something for the first time you learn a lot, and we’d do it a bit differently if faced with the same challenge again. But thankfully you only have to get the initial RTO accreditation once. Now we need to make sure we are fully compliant with ASQA requirements while expanding our reach.

Having obtained RTO accreditation, we are now able to deliver the only government-accredited cosmetic tattoo course in Australia; Design & Provide Cosmetic Tattooing (SHBBSKS003). All our other cosmetic tattoo courses do not have any government accredited equivalents. We are also accredited to deliver Maintain Infection Control Standards (SHBBINF001), which we have ensured covers all the aspects required for cosmetic tattooing.

APJ Q3: WHO ARE YOUR TRAINERS AND WHAT ARE THE PREREQUISITES AND ATTRIBUTES THAT YOU LOOK FOR WHEN SELECTING YOUR TRAINERS? APJ 13

Janice (Trainer, by name and nature), is our Master Cosmetic Tattooist and Trainer. She has been a cosmetic tattooist for 20 years and started her journey in the beauty industry 30 years ago. Her passion, drive and enthusiasm are remarkable, and something for our other trainers to be inspired by.

Janice has been a finalist in the Australian Beauty Awards in the category of Educator of the Year (Individual) for the past two years.

First and foremost, our trainers share THink’s passion for the industry and driving better standards of work. Janice consistently gets amazing feedback for all her training courses and a big part of that is the powerful way she delivers her training, both in the classroom and in the treatment rooms. It means students remember what they are taught; what’s the point of walking away from a course and thinking “well that was nice, but I don’t remember much”. We want students to walk away confident that they will be able to convert the training into great treatments and happy clients.

Some of the trainer attributes are therefore almost ‘intangible’, others are very clear; great skills, an ability to continuously learn and embrace new techniques, a Certificate IV in Training and Assessment (an RTO requirement), and the right manner to engage with and support a very wide range of students and student capabilities.

APJ Q4: AS A TRAINING INSTITUTION WHAT IS YOUR POINT OF DIFFERENCE? We want the quality of our training, every aspect of it to be what makes THink special. That’s what students pay for, and we want to make it a memorable experience where the tips, tricks and ‘war stories’ stay with them through their cosmetic tattoo career.

To maximise the interactive time in the classroom and time conducting treatments we have developed a series of online training modules to cover much of the theory component.

These can be completed as self-paced learning at home prior to arriving, well-prepared, for the classroom and practical components. The modules cover infection control (a refresher, given that an accredited course is a pre-requisite), skin structure, pigments, contraindications, guidelines and regulations, aftercare and the basics of operating a cosmetic tattoo clinic. We deliberately don’t include any aspect of cosmetic tattoo technique training to avoid the risk of someone thinking they can complete our online modules and start working on clients.

The most important aspect of our practical training is that there is one instructor for each student. We believe it is critical for students to have continuous oversight by an instructor, so they are guided, corrected, or complimented every step of the way. We hear of classes with one instructor and multiple students who spend much of their time waiting for an instructor to give them guidance. This is not good for the student, their standard of work on future clients, or the industry. Sadly, the only thing it is good for is the bank balance of the training college.

PJ Q5: WHAT IS YOUR INDUSTRY CONTRIBUTION AS A TRAINING PROVIDER AND IN WHAT WAY DO YOU WANT TO RAISE STANDARDS IN THE INDUSTRY? I think I’ve covered some of this ground already. By delivering the best quality training we can at THink we hope to raise standards and expectations in the industry. But let’s look at APJ 14

some examples of what could specifically be done in the nottoo-distant future.

The entry-level course for the industry is, or at least should be, Design & Provide Cosmetic Tattooing. We used to call this our Beginner’s Course before RTO accreditation. The standard (published) course content is somewhat dated, so we ensure we teach the core content, while keeping the treatment techniques up-to-date. This is the most important course for delivery with a 1:1 instructor to student ratio.

Students usually need continuous guidance, and we believe the 1:1 ratio should be mandatory (i.e. a regulated requirement). Technicians are often lost to the industry because their early training experiences were so poor.

The industry desperately needs a minimum standard for technicians to be able to call themselves a cosmetic tattooist, or at least an accredited cosmetic tattooist. I found an interesting parallel with my former technical life as a geologist. No right-minded employer would employ a geologist without a Bachelor of Science degree in the subject from a recognised institution (university), however there are no such rules for geologists, it’s just that the industry is so well established a degree (or two) is a minimum expectation.

In Australia, where industry standards and expectations for cosmetic tattooists have not yet developed, there is only one qualification that has any accreditation and defined requirements, this is Design & Provide Cosmetic Tattooing, which can only be delivered by an RTO. This should be the absolute minimum requirement for a practitioner. Beyond that they can develop their skills with more advanced courses.

APJ Q6: FOR EXISTING QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS WHAT PROFESSIONAL DEVELOPMENT PROGRAM DO YOU PROVIDE TO ASSIST IN THE CURRENT AND ON-GOING EDUCATION? THink offers a range of advanced courses including 3D Eyebrows, Full Lips, Paramedical, Advanced Microblading, Scalp Micropigmentation, and other custom-designed courses for student-specific needs. None of these courses, or others in the industry have government accreditation. We are looking at whether we embark on accreditation for such courses, which would be best done with the support of an industry body such as APAN.

At THink we also recognise that cosmetic tattooing is very much an international industry, long established in some countries, and into which Australia has entered slowly over the past 30 years or so. Connecting with international experts is particularly important.

minimum standard for cosmetic tattoo professionals in Australia. It’s been established, it has been managed and it can be very effective if promoted within the industry as a minimum expectation for a practitioner. THink will do all it can to promote CTARP accreditation.

Through our wholesaling arm, THink MBC, we are distributors for leading brands Nouveau Contour (Holland), Biotouch (USA) and Karen Betts (UK). This gives us access to ‘state-of-the-art’ training for our technicians and instructors, and the ability to draw international experts to Australia to provide classes in the latest techniques. For example, in January 2018 we are bringing Magda Mazurek from Nouveau Contour Poland to Australian capital cities to deliver master classes in ombre brows, nano-brows, nano-lips and elegant eyeshadow.

Think is also a member of the Australian Association of Cosmetic Tattoo.

In addition to all the courses and classes, THink provides on-going mentoring and guidance to students, former students, and customers of our wholesaling business. Janice and Liz in particular, spend a great deal of time on the phone, in person and on email in support of this cause.

APJ Q7: WHAT ARE YOUR PROFESSIONAL AFFILIATIONS AND HOW DO YOU VIEW YOUR COLLABORATIVE RELATIONSHIP WITH THEM IN SUPPORT OF A STRONGER MORE PROFESSIONAL INDUSTRY? I’m delighted to say that our main professional affiliation in this industry is with APAN! Our relationship with APAN continues to deepen, and we have been so pleased, and relieved, that APAN has highlighted the challenges of maintaining any sort of meaningful standards in eyebrow microblading, which is the fastest growing sector of cosmetic tattooing in Australia (refer the article by Katherine McCann, APJ v.22, Autumn 2017, p.32-33).

APAN operates the only recognised form of accreditation for cosmetic tattooists within Australia, that of Cosmetic Tattoo APAN-Registered Practitioner (CTARP). This sets out membership requirements, including qualifications, on-going training requirements and requirements to adhere to both the APAN Code of Ethics and the CTARP Code of Conduct.

CTARP accreditation is the obvious benchmark to set a

APJ Q8: WHAT IS THE VISION OF THINK AESTHETICS AND WHAT ARE YOUR GOALS FOR THE FUTURE? I think I’d better give you the quick version of this! Now that we are established as an RTO we want to expand the number of locations across Australia where we can deliver accredited courses, expand our core team of THink-accredited trainers, and progress an initiative to bring overseas students to Australia, respecting the requirements of the Commonwealth Register of Institutions and Courses for Overseas Students (CRICOS) as applicable.

Growth is exciting and challenging and we do want THink Aesthetics to be the leading brand in cosmetic tattooing in Australia. From this platform we can really help drive improved standards and practices in our industry. We will continue to look an international expansion, although we’re very aware of the additional challenges of operating within the legal framework of another country. Personally, I’ve worked in seven other countries and that probably makes me more cautious, not less. There is plenty to accomplish in Australia and we are looking forward to continuing what has so far been an amazing journey.

Most importantly, THink Aesthetics is a family business, and whether part time, or full time, our children all work in the business, typically in between studying. We want them to be proud of the legacy we are creating, both now and a long way into the future. This ethic, guides every business decision we make. APJ For further information training and cosmetic tattooing supplies please contact THink Aesthetics Phone: 07 3300 0465 info@thinkaesthetics.com.au www.thinkaesthetics. com.au APJ 15

COVERSTORY

Lower Face

After

Full Face

After

Full Face

After

Under Chin

After

Introducing...

THE NEW-GENERATION HIFU TECHNOLOGY TO SHAPE YOUR BUSINESS ADVANCES in ultrasonic technology have now taken results in skin tightening one step further with the introduction of HIFU – HIGH INTENITY FOCUSED ULTRASOUND. This new-generation skin tightening procedure delivering unparalleled results in face, neck and jowl-lifting with custom fat-contouring reduction for the body. The Dublo Gold and Ultra Skin 2 HIFU is the most optimised and affordable HIFU technology to be introduced to the Australian market.

These Clinical technologies are non-invasive systems that target deep tissue support layers through utilisation of High-Intensity Focused Ultrasound. They achieve great results by producing focal Thermal Coagulation Points (TCP) at the Superficial Musculo-Aponeurotic System (SMAS), deep dermis and subcutaneous adipose tissue without causing any superficial damage and with virtually no downtime.

All areas of the face can be treated, including around the eyes, the mouth and lower jaw-line, including the neck and most areas of the body.

From neck lifting and upper arm shaping to lower face shaping and body shaping the Dublo Gold and Ultra Skin 2 APJ 16

treatments are applicable to a wide range of client/patient needs and concerns and can essentially add another arm to your practice. These devices are distributed in Australia by ClinicalPro. The company has helped grow aesthetic practices and increase client and patient loyalty through their innovative technologies and products for over 30 years.

THE CLINCAL DUBLO GOLD ULTRA SKIN 2 ADVANTAGE These devices offer a triple-depth mechanism for face lifting and a deep single depth for body, allowing an adaptable treatment plan based on skin and area assessment. The HIFU devices feature 1.5mm for the upper dermis, 3.0mm lower dermis, 3.4mm SMAS and 13mm subcutaneous tissue.

HIFU technologies induce wrinkle improvement by creating superficial dermal neo-callogenesis in collagen-rich dermis layers at 1.5mm in depth. By delivering HIFU energy to the epidermis layer, you can achieve wrinkle reduction of the eye areas and mouth where the skin is thin, and you can also perform skin tightening.

This technology is also able to perform collagen generation

Offer your clients long-term tightening results for both face and body with CLINICAL DUBLO GOLD ULTRA SKIN 2 HIFU

and facial lifting by producing TCPs in the deeper dermis at 3.0mm depth from the skin’s surface. For non-surgical face lifting in the deep SMAS layers, the device enables a 4.5mm depth for lax neck folds and muscle tissue.

Efficient reduction of the fat layer is achieved by applying HIFU at a treatment depth of 13mm on thick layer of body fat, such as abdomen and arm areas.

These devices show the depth of operation of the cartridge in the user interface (LCD Touch Screen), allowing you to ensure precise and accurate treatment every time.

Not only do the treatments work in synergy with other popular aesthetic therapies, but also the short treatment time (30-40-minute procedure) benefits both the client and the practitioner, enhancing return on investment.

The Clinical HIFU devices offer reliable, non-invasive treatments, with long-term results for your clients without the need for invasive surgical procedures and the need for downtime, or side effects, thus bridging the gap between injectables and surgery.

The breakthrough treatment brings with it an abundance of benefits both within their state-of-the-art designs, adaptable technological features, ease of use and rapid return on investment. They are an extremely versatile investment that can become an invaluable asset for your practice. APJ

For further enquiries phone ClinicalPRO on 0411 862 362 or 1800 628 999.

Skin colour independent, Clinical Dublo Gold Ultra Skin2 HIFU offer a treatment with virtually no pre/post treatment care requirement. Noticeable results can be expected to improve over 90-180 days and may last several months depending on the client’s age and lifestyle.

APJ 17

TREATMENTSTRATEGIES

INFLAMMAGEING AND WAYS TO MITIGATE THIS PROBLEM

by Metro-Dora Clifford B.Sc., MBA IN an industry moving at breakneck speed the advent of “inflammageing” serves as both a wakeup call and an ultimatum to product developers, cosmetic companies and skincare professionals alike. Scientific evidence suggests that many of today’s trademark treatments may actually exacerbate the conditions they are designed to treat in the long term, thanks to a phenomenon known as inflammageing — a term first coined by Professor Claudio Franceschi from the University of Bolgona to describe chronic, persistent inflammation, which is one of the main causes of ageing.

As the concept of inflammageing goes mainstream, it will result in widespread changes in the professional skincare industry, transforming everything from the ingredients to methods of its use. Most professionals are familiar with the visible signs of inflammation seen on the surface of the skin representing infection, irritation or discomfort. However, weakened skin is a risk of youth-sustaining skin structures, resulting in collagen and elastin degrading. The “inflammageing” process is a complex chain of events where acute inflammation and repeated hyper-pigmentation, flaccid and inelastic tissue manifest.

HOW INFLAMMAGEING CAUSES SKIN AGEING There is a direct link between extrinsic skin-ageing and inflammation — the reciprocal effect of many chronic inflammatory skin diseases such as psoriasis, atopic and sebor-

APJ 18

rheic dermatitis on the stratum corneum barrier, which is supposed to maintain the skin’s healthy hydration levels, but when its integrity is compromised an immune disorder occurs. The integrity of this barrier is maintained by the metabolic balance such as the synthesis of collagen fibres and the replacement of old and worn-out fibres and skin cells by means of enzymes called matrix metallo-proteinases (MMP).

It is therefore important for all skincare professionals to promote an enzyme peel once a month as part of their client’s skincare maintenance program to ensure that the stratum corneum maintains healthy hydration levels so the deeper skin layers can continue to replace old collagen fibres through the process of MMP. Inflammageing on the other hand, destroys this balance, decreasing cellular metabolic activity and collagen renewal. Externally the skin loses its suppleness and elasticity and becomes flaccid, generating reactive oxygen species accelerating oxidative damage, which perpetuates a chronic, pro-inflammatory state!

As aesthetic therapists we need to identify appropriate strategies to achieve quality treatment outcomes. Knowing and understanding what compromises skin health and implementing appropriate treatment strategies to mitigate these problems will allow us to strengthen the skin’s constitution by supporting the skin’s immunity and build long-lasting and trusted relationships with our clients. APJ

APJ 19

Aesthetics Conference GC & SYD. 2018 Gold Coast 28th May and Sydney 17th September The 2018 APAN Conference program will feature a new interactive style creating an inspirational educational experience to remember.

Introducing L.I.M.E (Legends Interactive Meeting Experience) at the Gold Coast event. This Conference will include a unique twist to the already impressive conference facilities.

From interactive activities to memorable food experience, we promise to create a memorable, stimulating occasion that will leave delegates with a lasting impression of learning and fun.

This one-day conference event will feature: • • • •

Comprehensive, educational topics Gift on arrival Inaugural STAFF EXCELLENCE AWARD Separate Staff lecture and workshop that will explore “The winning soft-sell strategies — How to promote programs and close sales with ease”.

• Interactive food and beverage menu • Build your own style morning and afternoon tea • Interactive themed lunch buffet with chef cooking demonstration, • Local produce information, food trivia and take-home recipe cards.

SPEND THE WEEKEND FROM JUST $110 PER NIGHT FOR A DELUXE ROOM WITH OCEAN VIEWS AND ENJOY A COMPREHENSIVE CONFERENCE PROGRAM COMBINED WITH FUN AND INTERACTIVE ACTIVITIES. AN EVENT NOT TO BE MISSED! FOR FURTHER INFORMATION AND TO REGISTER VISIT WWW.APANETWORK.COM OR PHONE 07 55930 360

INGREDIENTSCIENCE

WHY THE SKIN NEEDS ENVIRONMENTAL PROTECTION

By Tina Viney

ACCORDING to the National Geographic Society, air pollution enters the earth’s atmosphere in many different ways, but most of it is created by people. Air pollution can be harmful in a number of ways, but a common topic lately has been how it impacts the health of the skin. Increased exposure to pollution has been shown to prompt premature ageing, skin damage, inflammation and clogged pores. Some studies even link increased pollution to pigmentation on the skin.

The recent growth of urban life has brought these issues to light more than ever, leading to a new demand for “pollution protection” in skincare.

POLYCYCLIC AROMATIC HYDROCARBONS

WHAT ARE WE PROTECTING SKIN FROM?

Dust produced by braking systems of cars and mass transit vehicles contains compounds with metals, such as iron, copper and zinc. These compounds also contribute to oxidative stress and inflammation.

Pollution is defined as the introduction of contaminants into an otherwise natural environment. Ironically, as industrialisation has improved quality of life around the globe tremendously, it has simultaneously increased the pollutants we live with, on a daily basis.

Ground-level ozone pollution is suspected by some to be one of the primary causes of pollution-related skin damage. It is a colourless and highly irritating gas that forms just above the earth’s surface when pollutants (such as combustion exhaust from fossil fuels) react with direct sunlight. When that pollution comes into contact with your skin, it doesn’t just sit on the surface. The tiny size of these particles — sometimes as much as 20 times smaller than pores — allows them to infiltrate deeper layers of the epidermis. This is harmful because the outer layer of our skin contains lipids — that is, fats that bind skin cells together, and pollution oxidises those lipids. This causes not only inflammation and dehydration, but also a cellular-level reaction that breaks down the barrier function of the skin and further damages the DNA.

UV RADIATION Although ground-level ozone can be harmful, the ozone layer in the upper atmosphere prevents more than 90% of UVB radiation from reaching the earth’s surface. UVB is the wavelength of light that causes sunburn, increased melanin synthesis (tanning) and contributes to skin photo-ageing.

The ozone layer has become thinner in recent decades, potentially exposing people to increased amounts of harmful ultraviolet light.

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A diverse group of chemicals called polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons originates from the incomplete burning of fuels, such as coal, gas, or oil; 90% of indoor polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons is due to tobacco smoke. These compounds bind to a cellular receptor on skin cells. This binding stimulates the production of melanin and its visible effect of darker skin pigmentation.

DUST

FIGHTING BACK TO PROTECT THE SKIN Studies on pollution and its impact on the skin has in recent years, contributed to the production of skincare products with a focus of protecting the skin from the impact of pollution on skin ageing.

HOW DOES IT WORK? The approach to fighting pollution should be very similar to tackling UV rays — protection and prevention is always better than remedying it later. Similar to how we use SPF to protect our skin from the sun, it’s important to look for ingredients that are scientifically-proven to improve skin exposed to pollutants. The key is harnessing antioxidants and other ingredients that protect cells from free radical damage caused by environmental aggressors, in addition to keeping skin hydrated at all times. An uncomplicated, yet efficacious beauty regimen traditionally consists of the following product ranges: Anti-pollution agents can be added to each and every step of your clients’ skin care routine. If they live or work in a highly polluted area, the first step is to ensure they use a high-quality cleanser and perform a double-cleanse before bed to remove dust and dirt particles thoroughly. Follow with a skin tonic with antioxidant properties, such as green tea extract, vitamins C and E and grapeseed extract.

Make sure you are offering products that contain ingredients scientifically proven to combat pollution with antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties Plant extracts and essential oils are especially popular due to consumers’ interest in “natural” formulations. Antioxidants can help neutralise free radical damage caused by pollutants. Common antioxidants include:

SKIN-IDENTICAL/SKIN-REPAIRING INGREDIENTS Substances that keep skin cells connected to help maintain skin’s barrier.

A healthy, intact barrier helps block out pollutants and leaves the skin looking smooth, soft, well hydrated and glowing.

There are many skin-identical ingredients, including:

• Moringa oleifera – Known for its anti-adhesive properties, moringa provides an invisible film and natural shield on the skin’s surface to reduce the deposit of environmental pollutants and prevent their absorption into the skin.

• Glycerin – Glycerin has a dual ability to hydrate the skin and fill in gaps in drier skin. As such, it is able to provide protection by keeping the outer layer of the skin intact.

This layer is essential as it is the natural barrier protecting skin from pollutants.

• Vitamins C & E – These antioxidants help protect the body from harmful free radicals that damage skin cells.

They can improve cell function, increase collagen production and boost elasticity.

• Phospholipids – Phospholipids rebuild the skin’s barrier level and act as a reservoir for the prolonged delivery of natural active nutrients and moisture to the inner layer of the skin.

• Niacinamide – This ingredient helps improve the skin’s barrier function to block out pollution. It also has anti-inflammatory properties to soothe and quell inflammation in the skin.

• Ceramides – Ceramides are essential in maintaining a healthy skin barrier. They help replenish the skin’s own protective barrier and prevent moisture loss.

• Artichoke – Extracts from artichoke provide hydrating and anti-pollution benefits to the skin. Artichoke is known to inhibit the inflammation and premature ageing caused by pollution.

FATTY ACIDS

• White tea – White tea is rich in antioxidant flavonoids and has been shown to neutralise upto 80 per cent of free radicals, protecting cell membranes and helping the skin defend itself from pollution.

COFACTORS Small non-protein molecules that can bind to enzymes and produce reactions.

Several studies have reported that cofactors benefit the skin’s rejuvenation process by supporting its natural antioxidant and detoxification systems, which in turn helps protect against pollution’s negative effects. Essential trace elements to look for include iron, magnesium, manganese, cobalt, copper, zinc, molybdenum, B vitamins, folic acid, vitamin K and biotin (H).

Fatty acids are lubricating ingredients that prevent waterloss and have a softening, protective and smoothing effect on the skin.

Preventing water-loss and keeping skin hydrated is vital in the fight against pollution. Fatty acids (such as linoleic acid, triglycerides and fatty alcohols) are common emollients.

They are a crucial part of the skin’s lipid content and help bolster its barrier function, which, when working properly, acts like a seal that keeps pollutants out.

An ounce of prevention is better than the cure. Taking the extra steps to protect the skin before exposure is key to keeping the skin healthy and clear, while preventing pre-mature ageing. APJ Ref: Annette Tobias, Ph.D - Does your skin need environmental protection?

APJ 23

SKINTREATMENTS

THE SCIENCE OF SUMMER

by Metro-Dora Clifford B.Sc., MBA

THE body’s natural response to the sun continues to be at the forefront of medical research as on-going exposure has been confirmed to contribute to pre-mature skin ageing.

Meanwhile, the debate continues as many of the ingredients used as sunscreens are often synthetic chemicals.

Now scientists at John Hopkins University have identified an interesting finding. They reported that we could achieve healthy relations with the sun with the help of botanicals instead of man-made synthetic ingredients. It is possible that our response to the sun is not due to the sun being harmful, but rather a deficiency that lies within us. Functional medical practitioner and reputed medical institutions have being studying this theory since 2009.

The first aspect of these studies revealed that when humans with vitamin B deficiencies were exposed to the sun, there was an increase in inflammation, which ignited a free-radical response that generated cellular damage that could lead to skin cancer.

The second aspect found that antioxidants such as vitamin C and E were only capable of neutralising free-radicals, and yet did not have the ability to recycle free radical waste products. In addition, the damage to the antioxidants during the neutralisation phase converted them into super-powerful free radicals.

The third aspect of the study was to evaluate the effects of restrictions on the sun’s energy — the way sunscreens do

APJ 24

on the structure and integrity of cells. The result of these studies established the following: • An increase in vitamin B, which is responsible for reducing inflammation and strengthening the integrity of the blood vessels and the capillary bed, reduce the inflammatory response to the sun.

• The effects of triggering cells to produce naturally occurring protective antioxidant enzymes such as superoxide dismutase (SOD), catalase and other enzymes involved in glutathione synthesis and metabolism were not only more efficient in neutralising free radicals, but also had the capability to recycle free radical waste and did not convert into super-powerful free radicals after neutralisation.

• Diffusing the energy of the sun (instead of confining it) proved less destructive and allowed the body to process vitamin D. Further, scientists at John Hopkins University reported that we could achieve a healthier relationship with the sun with the help of extracts from broccoli sprouts that work inside the cells by boosting the production of network of protective enzymes that defend the cells against many aspects of UV damage.

There studies confirm that by boosting nutrition and using common sense during sun exposure, we can achieve both skin protection against sun damage, as well as benefit from vitamin D production. tAPJ

A breakthrough in post procedure care

Stratacel and Stratamed, applied immediately post procedure, speed up the healing process resulting in reduced downtime and improved aesthetic outcome.1 Strataderm is a medical product for the professional prevention and treatment of both old and new scars.

www.stratacel.com

www.stratamed.com

www.strataderm.com

Laser resurfacing1 – treatment with Stratacel following fractional laser resurfacing

Laser resurfacing (acne scars)2 –treatment with Stratamed in combination with thermage and CO2 fractional laser resurfacing.

Linear hypertrophic scar after surgery1 – monotherapy treatment with Strataderm

During treatment

Day 7

European Class IIa Medical Device FDA Listed/TGA approved

Day 0

Day 7

European Class IIa Medical Device FDA Listed/TGA approved

Day 0

Week 8, left scar untreated

European Class I Medical Device FDA Listed/TGA approved

SC-SM-SD-AU-017-1-1016

1800 567 007 Manufactured by: Stratpharma AG Centralbahnplatz 8 CH-4051 Basel Switzerland

Sponsor in Australia: A L Kerr Medical Pty Ltd 174 Willoughby Road Crows Nest NSW 2065 Tel: 1800 567 007

Always read the label. Use only as directed.

1. Data on file. Stratpharma AG 2. Sandhofer M, Schauer P. Skinmed 2012; 10(6):1–7

Switzerland

SALONBUSINESS

INCREASING YOUR CLIENT ATTRACTION THROUGH LOW-COST MARKETING

by Caroline Nelson ENTERING into the year’s busiest season is an excellent time to prepare for a stronger client engagement, as well as attracting new clients. This can be achieved through appropriate planning and marketing. In this article Caroline Nelson shares some valuable tips on how you can maximise you marketing strategy and secure lucrative business growth.

Marketing is a necessary evil if you want your business to grow, or even just to stay in the race. However, when money gets tight marketing is often one of the first expenses to get cut. But what if there were easy low-cost ways that won’t drain the budget, while still gets your message out, would you be interested?

I have found that there a two ways to market a beauty business. The first, takes a large budget using many of the more traditional advertising methods that could be best described as throwing heaps of money about in the hope that some will stick. The second, takes a more creative approach using a much smaller budget, but requires the investment of more time.

Regardless of which method of marketing you use, you will first need to consider the type of client you hope to attract.

As a general rule of thumb it would be a female in the 25 – 55 age group. And of course this could be further broken down to numerous sub-groups like professionals, stay at home mums, etc. The big question is, where do these ideal clients typically hangout? Once you have identified this the next step would be to target-market in such a way as to attract their attention. These people will also hangout in both the online and offline environments, therefore you need to work both.

It’s competition time. Some of you will be saying “but, I don’t have enough followers on my Facebook page to make a competition worthwhile”. However, what I’m going to suggest will in fact lift your follower numbers and help to build a much more visible social media platform for your business now and into the future. Like it or not, social media is where many of your ideal clients hangout, and remember, as mentioned earlier, you need to find these people and start engaging with them in a meaningful way.

We all know there are only two places sales come from, these are from existing clients and new ones, so why not use your existing clients to bring on-board new ones? However, don’t use the old strategy of asking them to refer their friends, because I’m sure you’ve all tried this before with minimal results. Why not try the new social media method of “Like”, Tag”, and “Share” with their friends method. It will get them much more excited and willing to share the message.

To get good participation you need to engage your current clients coming into your business. One thing I do know is that most of you will not have engaged more than 20% of your regular loyal clients on your social media. You will need a counter sign for the reception desk, plus your Facebook post. I recommend the prize to be a facial treatment that will deliver high results and one that you would like to promote so more clients get to experience its benefits, and I’ll explain why a little later.

MAXIMISING THE ONLINE PLATFORM

The rules for this competition are entrants must first “Like” your salons page. Then they must “Tag” two friends, and also “Share” the post. And the more people you get involved the better success this competition will generate activity and ultimately results. Therefore getting current clients engaged in the competition will be vital.

From personal experience I believe that the online social media marketing approach is fast becoming the most cost-effective in both time and money for the busy salon or clinic owner. So let’s start there. The method I’m going to discuss can in fact be used both as your own social media competition, or cross marketing with another business, or better still do both.

Either before a client’s appointment (if they have a few minutes wait time), or after the service when you have completed the rebook and sale, draw their attention to the competition with the counter sign, then ask them if they follow your Facebook. If they do get them to whip out their smart phone (before they leave) to immediately “Like” the competition post “Tag” two of their friends, and “Share” the post. Don’t

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forget to mention the friends they “Tag” should be local to your salon. If they aren’t a current follower get them to become one immediately. And be enthusiastic and excited not only about the competition but also the treatment prize.

I would suggest you spend a few dollars boosting the competition post for the length of the competition, which should run for no longer than ten days otherwise followers get disinterested. In the competition post state things like, the more entries the better the chance of winning, and also the date and time the entry closes and when the winner will be announced. The winner is the one who “Tags” the most friends.

Once the winner has been announced and while people are still excited by the competition, you should follow up with a special promotion of the treatment that was on prize. In this promotion, anyone who books and has this service, say within the next month, gets a bonus $25 gift voucher that can be used either at their next appointment or they can “Gift it” to a friend. I would also friend-request all the people that were tagged, this will help build your follower numbers.

And remember, once you have your social media up and active keep posting interesting content, offers, education, because if you don’t people lose interest very quickly.

One offline method I like and which is a very smart way to cross market, is to approach other businesses who have similar types of clientele. This will allow you to tap into their target customers who have the same customer profile as your business. Cross-promotion offers each business the potential of expanding through the other customer bases, which is a positive win-win for both.

If you’re not sure which businesses might be good cross-mar-

keting prospects then here’s some examples. They could be ladies gyms, fashion boutiques, florists, cafes who specialise in “high teas”, wedding planners - to name just a few. Consider in your trade area how many of these businesses you’ve already built a relationship with. These then would be the logical ones to start cross marketing with.

Getting known by local clubs and groups also works very well. Recently, one of my clients tapped into a golfing ladies’ group. These were fairly well-heeled ladies who clearly needed regular aesthetic treatment to off-set the environmental conditions they were subjecting their skins to. By getting involved in sponsoring a golf day tournament, and giving each player a gift bag including a treatment voucher, she was able to expose her business and proceeded to gather several new clients. This was great low-cost marketing that delivered a high return, especially as a couple turned out to quickly become VIP status clients.

I hope the above information has proven valuable and given you an idea or two that will enable you to get your business more visible in your local trade area, and all at a low cash investment. APJ © Copyright Caroline Nelson 2017 Caroline Nelson is a beauty industry expert who specialises in helping businesses develop their brand, improve productivity, and increase bottom-line profit. To learn more about her step-by-step program for salon spa success visit www.SalonSpaBusiness.com or phone 0410 600 440.

WE WANT TO

REWARD YOUR STAR! At this year’s APAN Aesthetic Conferences – Gold Coast May 28th and Sydney 17th September, we will be inviting businesses to nominate their STAR for the APAN STAFF RECOGNITION AWARD.

EVERY business owner wants their staff members to be great team players, achieve amazing results and contribute to the reputation and success of the business. However, while you train, encourage and nurture all your staff members there is always a STAR – someone that is doing just that little bit extra and seems to shine and inspire the others as well.

Entry is FREE. All you need to do is complete an Award Registration Form that will contain several questions relating to your staff’s performance. Each section will be allocated points and an independent judging panel will determine the winners at both these events.

Why not use this as an incentive exercise to motivate your staff and give them an exciting reason to step up their performance and be recognised?

Entry to these Awards is FREE. All you have to do is download an APAN STAFF RECOGNITION AWARD Registration Form from APAN’s website www.apanetwork.com. Review the

questions and discuss your entry with your staff. The Judges will evaluate six key areas: 1. Commitment to excellence 2. Team player 3. Leadership qualities and initiative 4. Positive attitude and compassion 5. Ability to communicate effectively 6. Performance and sales There will be two winners – one at each conference location. Each winner will receive a plaque and they will also be interviewed for a story in the next issue of APJ Journal. They will also receive a Press Release to be used with your local media to gain extra publicity for your business.

WHY NOT DOWNLOAD AN APPLICATION FORM NOW? Start your action plan to motivate and step up your staffs’ enthusiasm and work toward creating a performance improvement stratery with an exciting marketing objective.

For further information phone 07 5593 0360 or download the APAN Staff recognition award registration form www.apanetwork.com APJ 28

APJ 29

Are you a Cosmetic Tattooist who is committed to high COSMETIC TATTOO standards of education APAN REGISTERED PRACTITIONER (CTARP) excellence and best practice?

APAN’s COSMETIC TATTOO APAN REGISTERED PRACTITIONER (CTARP) registration is revolutionising the recognition and integrity of Cosmetic Tattooists nation-wide. CTARP registration was established due to serious Industry concern being raised over the deterioration of Cosmetic Tattoo practice and training standards and this registration is paving the way for identification of professional best practice in line with current Australian Standards.

To join CTARP the following prerequisite will be required:

! Must be a current financial member of APAN ! Government-Approved qualification in Cosmetic Tattooing

Registration renewal requirements:

! Maintain currency of APAN Membership ! Evidence of participation in post-graduate training within the previous 24 months ! Evidence of attending at least one APAN conference per year.

Cost of CTARP Registration:

! CTARP Registration $110

! Adhere to the APAN CODE OF ETHICS (Cosmetic

If you require further information please contact APAN on 07 5593 0360 or email info@apanetwork.com

!

The online application to join CTARP is found at www.apanetwork.com

Registration requirements:

Tattooing) and the relevant Australian Regulations as set out by State and Federal jurisdictions.

Adhere to the CTARP Code of Conduct.

Registration Benefits:

! Special Membership Certificate ! Special Membership Card ! Industry Code of Ethics (Cosmetic Tattooing) ! CTARP Code of Conduct ! Transparent CTARP logo for business window or door ! Included on APAN Website as preferred practitioners ! Other benefits from time-to-time

So if you are a Cosmetic Tattooist and are committed to high standards of educational excellence and best practice, consider joining APAN and become a member of CTARP and be recognised among Australia's leading Cosmetic Tattoo Practitioners.

APAN.page | @apanetwork

APJ 31

Seeing the necessity to expand her business by undertaking more challenging skin treatments she identified the need to further her qualifications in laser and IPL for this purpose.

When APAN announced in 2016 that they had secured another government-funded project for businesses to diversity their services and treatments she snapped-up the chance to apply. Identifying a growth opportunity she applied to undertake the NAT10038 Graduate Certificate in Cosmetic Laser and Light Therapies, which gave her a formal qualification in exactly what she wanted — skin rejuvenation, treating vascular conditions, pigmentation and tattoo removal.

“Located in regional Queensland where we have summer weather for approximately nine months of the year, which means that much of the population suffer from sun damage, possibly more severe than other states,” Karen said.

HOW TO CONFIDENTLY HOLD YOUR GROUND DURING COMPETITIVE TIMES AS a training college, Beauty Therapy Training Australia (BTTA) is fast gaining a reputation for its commitment to comprehensive, quality training delivered with care and compassion.

Due to a high demand for quality training, particularly in light-based technologies, BTTA specialises in government-approved qualifications in IPL and Laser, both for hair reduction as well as skin rejuvenation, vascular, pigmentation and tattoo removal – a qualification that is only delivered by two RTOs within Australia.

BTTA also assists businesses to update their staff’s skills and knowledge through a variety of professional development courses in advanced technologies and techniques. These include microdermabrasion, radio frequency, peels, fraxel, LED and skin needling helping businesses maintain their competitive advantage. Their training never ceases to deliver happy and confident graduates who are more than happy to provide glowing reviews on the level of training they receive.

One happy therapist and business owner is Karen Geiszler. Karen has a successful business in Apple Tree Creek, Queensland. Her business – Karen Geiszler Hair, Beauty, Laser and IPL is constantly experiencing growth and she is excited to share that much of her success is due to the quality training she has received over the past three years through BTTA. Karen enrolled in 2014 to complete a qualification in IPL and Laser Hair Reduction. In completing the SIB 70110 Graduate Certificate of IPL and Laser Hair Reduction she was able to deliver great results with her treatments and secure a loyal clientele.

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“We face varying and numerous skin conditions that require a scientific approach with proven protocols to achieve lasting skin improvement. This is where my training has allowed me to address some more challenging skin conditions with greater confidence and through a more advanced, systematic approach,” Karen stressed.

Karen went on to say that while training in the use of technologies is readily available, and some of this is good training, it cannot compare to the depth of knowledge she gained from a qualification.

“The training I was provided with at BTTA was second to none.

They were patient, thorough and very professional in their delivery and approach. I felt fully supported at every level and this made my learning a real pleasure. I can highly recommend this investment in the way it can give a business new leverage in allowing practitioners to meet with skin treatment challenges with greater confidence and with incredible treatment outcomes.

“I truly believe that suppliers should get on board and encourage all their clients to seek to gain a full qualification. It is impossible through a three-day training program to fully understand all the scientific theory, as well as gain comprehensive knowledge on wave-lengths and the best protocols that will allow you to gain not just safe treatments, but also be able to deliver the very best results for your clients. This is where the industry is falling short. Having gone through this experience I don’t believe that machines should be purchased without full qualifications.

“After being 25 years in this industry, I am grateful to be given this opportunity to upgrade my qualifications. I want to thank APAN for the amazing work they do to bring these opportunities to the industry and also thank Angela Smith and BTTA for their commitment and delivery of amazing, quality training. It really has made a difference to my business” Karen said.

BTTA offer both government-approved qualification as well as comprehensive short course in various technologies and techniques to enhance your treatment outcomes and boost your bottom line. APJ For further information contact Beauty Therapy Training Australia

07 5599 5568 contact@beautytherapytraining.com.au

ENROLLING NOW

IPL and Laser courses

Nationally accredited LLTSKR801A Design And Apply Intense Pulsed Light & Laser Skin Rejuvenation Treatment Programs Specifically designed to provide

applicants with the skills and knowledge to successfully provide Skin Rejuvenation Treatments, utilising IPL and Q-switched Laser technology within cosmetic medical clinics or beauty salons.

Comprehensive knowledge of skin anatomy, physiology and skin conditions, lasers and laser safety, wound healing and aftercare is required for safe and effective treatment delivery.

Approved by Queensland Radiation Health for persons wishing to obtain a license to use laser apparatus for hair reduction, skin rejuvenation, superficial vascular treatments and superficial pigment lesion treatments.

Contact Us Today!

P: (07) 5599 5568 or 04 1974 3029 E: contact@beautytherapytraining.com.au A: Nirvana By the Sea Building, 7-8/1 Douglas Street Coolangatta Qld 4225 W: www.beautytherapytraining.com.au

You will learn:

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Skin Anatomy & Physiology revision Skin conditions suitable for treatment QS Lasers & safety revision Client consultation Treatment procedures practical Pre and post care

Ask about our special APAN rate

We have finance packages available or payment plans and will send you an information pack about and an enrolment form.

All you need to do is complete the enrolment form and return this to us to secure your place in the course of your choice.

Examples of Other Courses: 10038NAT Graduate Certificate in Cosmetic Laser And Light Therapies (Class 4 Laser) SIB70110 Graduate Certificate in Intense Pulsed Light and Laser Hair Reduction (Class 4 Laser)

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STARPERFORMER

SKEYNDOR BODYSCULPT Taking advantage of the Circadian Rhythm Connection to get clients in shape FAST

HOW? … SIMPLE … TWO PLANS - 3 PRODUCTS THE next generation SKEYNDOR BodySculpt tackles and addresses specific body concerns through clinically-proven, fast-absorbing plant extract actives and our Circadian Rhythms that act while we sleep for speedier and more effective results.

Research has shown that when we eat may be as vital as what we eat. Turns out, it is our habits that are linked to circadian rhythms. For example, late night eating can increase the incidence of weight gain and also decrease the rate at which we lose this weight.

These rhythms are a daily cycle that determine the sleeping and feeding patterns of all humans, animals and plants where clear patterns of brain activity, hormone production and cell regeneration for example, are connected. Due to the Circadian Rhythms, there can be variations in particular hormone and enzyme levels throughout the day which, in turn, have an effect on how calories, carbohydrates and fats are metabolised.

Based on extensive studies, SKEYNDOR introduces the latest BodySculpt line that works with Circadian Rhythms.

APJ 34

They have developed two BodySculpt Plans — Draining and Slimming with each featuring three cutting edge products to be applied twice per day in a 30-day cycle. Each Plan goes hand-in-hand with an in-salon programme — the Draining Light Legs Program and the Ultra-Slimming Program where results can be significantly enhanced with the SKEYNDOR Meso-Science, manual lymphatic drainage or the SORISA Presor Therapy. For those clients wishing to reduce a dress size in a shorter period of time, for example 30 days, the SKEYNDOR BodySculpt Treatments are ideal.

In addition, clients using the BodySculpt homecare program clients can expect an acceleration in results when combined with equipment-based body services including Cavitation, Ultrasound, Freeze Fat, Radio-frequency, Vacuum suction and Electro-muscle stimulation.

FOR FLUID RETENTION

Addressing circulation and fluid retention issues, the Draining Plan features the SKEYNDOR 30-Day Slimming Silhouette Booster, Draining Anti-Cellulite Gel and a two-phase night time reducer, Oil + Tonic combination. The products are designed to help reduce and improve tone. Reduce the

silhouette and improve the bloated appearance due to fluid retention around the abdomen and legs for a significant toning effect.

FOR FAT DEPOSITS

Addressing accumulation of fat in specific areas, the Slimming Plan includes the SKEYNDOR 30-Day Slimming Silhouette Booster, Stubborn Areas Anti-Cellulite Cream and the breakthrough two-phase night time reducer, Oil and Tonic combination. Targeting the waist, thighs and buttocks, the products have been developed for clients looking for speedier outcomes in the breaking down of fat and minimising stubborn cellulite.

The new stars of the ground-breaking BodySculpt line are the SKEYNDOR Oil and Tonic Night and the 30-Day Slimming Booster. Formulated for the treatment of hard cellulite and cellulite with a high fat composition, the Oil and Tonic Night contains the specialised STOP NOCTURNIN formula, the protein responsible for fat accumulation at night.

It works to reduce the orange peel skin and remodels the body’s contour, while we sleep. This unique oil and tonic combination contains Plankton Extract, Caffeine derivative,

Carnitine to target the fat burning process and Pink Peppercorn Extract to boost circulation, tone and firm the tissues.

The SKEYNDOR 30-day Slimming Booster is designed to be applied with either the Draining Anti-Cellulite Gel or the Stubborn Areas Anti-Cellulite Cream to enhance their effects. It is charged with Glaucine, effective in diminishing fat deposits and water retention, Dandelion and Goldenrod Extracts to promote drainage, Caffeine and derivatives and specific vitamins for their anti-stretchmark properties. It softens and minimises the orange peel appearance, helping improve contours, while reducing overall body volume.

As well as the two new BodySculpt stars, SKEYNDOR has called on the tried and true results-oriented Draining Anti-Cellulite Gel and Stubborn Areas Anti-Cellulite Cream for their proven ability to boost and deliver visible and more effective outcomes. APJ 1800 554 545 info@vogueimage.com.au or visit skeyndorpro.com.au for more information on the BodySculpt programmes.

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ADVERTORIAL

SKINIAL NON-LASER TATTOO REMOVAL SYSTEMS GAINS MOMENTUM IN AUSTRALIA DEDICATED to the achievement of high standard and result Deanne Carney is the national trainer and distributor for the Skinial method of non-laser tattoo removal. With the growing popularity of this treatment innovation, Deanne is busy training and educating medical and aesthetic professionals in the famous Skinial method that delivers safer, efficacious result through a more gentle way than traditional laser tattoo removal.

SKINIAL is an effective non-laser method of tattoo removal with a long-standing history in Europe. It was renowned for its safety and effectiveness and this made it attractive. The company offered great support and comprehensive training and it was also a very cost-effect method with a promising investment.

SKINIAL achieves great results using a completely natural product — Lactic acid. It is the most widespread acid in nature and part of energy production in the body.

Deanne has worked extensively with the SKINIAL method and was so impressed that she is now the national trainer for the company. With a background as a qualified teacher, Deanne delivers comprehensive training ensuring that practitioners can achieve exceptional treatment results with this revolutionary system.

The obvious health benefits of non-laser tattoo removal are becoming more widely presented to the community. The Skinial brand is growing rapidly and the number of clients looking for an alternative to laser are so relieved to find us.

“As I was watching the tattoo industry grow at an alarming pace,” Deanne said, “I felt there would be a huge demand for tattoo removal very soon, so I began to investigate options to add to my professional services. I considered laser tattoo removal, but research presented many dangers with this method. In particular, studies reported that with removing pigments through laser there was evidence that they become highly toxic, even carcinogenic in nature, and were then dispersed into the body for elimination. This was a huge concern for me, so I investigated further and came across the Skinial method.”

The photos show body tattoo removal. This area behind the ear is particularly sensitive and difficult to treat. The first photo (before) is after four laser treatments. There is still a lot of ink! The second photo is the healed result after just three SKINIAL treatments.

The brow removal photos show complete removal in 2 treatments. Before and after just one treatment. Before and after one treatment and after the second treatment.

The SKINIAL method is far less painful than laser. It is also cheaper than laser because the average number of treatments with laser is 6-20, while those of SKINIAL treatments to remove a body tattoo are 3-5 and 2-3 for full brow removal. SKINIAL doesn’t affect the hair follicle or the melanocytes. There is less risk of scarring than laser as we only work to a depth of less than 1mm.

With this method you don’t fade the ink, so there is no need to work more than once on any area of the tattoo. It is safer and healthier than laser because we take the ink out of the body using a natural substance and removing it externally through the body’s own natural elimination process. Laser relies on the lymph system to remove nanoparticles and toxins internally once they have been broken down by the laser.

SKINIAL has its own exclusive aftercare range to ensure optimum healing and removal results. APJ For futher information about introducing SKINIAL treatments to your business please contact Deanne Carney on 0423 621 764.

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GET YOUR CLIENTS INTO SHAPE!

BE ONE OF THE FIRST 10 CALLERS AND RECIEVE A PLAN OF YOUR CHOICE* BECASUE IF YOU LOVE IT YOUR CLIENTS WILL TOO!

1800 554 545 | skeyndorpro.com.au *CONDITIONS APPLY: MUST BE SALON OWNER PERFORMING BODY TREATMENTS

MEMBERPROFILE

A POWER OF TWO

An Interview with Boz Couldwell WHILE there are people who enter our industry by intent, there are also others who stumble into it by default. Boz and John Couldwell from NUYU are two amazing people who came from different industries and found themselves attracted and well-suited to moving into establishing a successful aesthetic and cosmetic tattoo practice.

Situated in Mangerton located in Central Woolongong, NSW, NUYU is a busy practice servicing the local community with cutting-edge treatment results.

We capture their story through an interview with Boz as she recollects her journey in this amazing industry.

APJ Q1: I believe that you and your husband John are in n business together. How did that come about and what are your different backgrounds?

Years ago I had a spiritual retail business. I subsequently chose to move my business to Central Woolongong in regional NSW where I was able to secure larger premises. As I had ample space, John who was a massage therapist, decided to hire some space for his remedial massage clients.

At the time I was approached by a spray tanning company to introduce this service in my business. Being an avid beach worshiper all my life I loved a tan, but I was also becoming concerned with the growing number of skin cancer incidents, so I decided to introduce this service and offer it to my clients, encouraging them to switch to a safer option. One thing led to another and my clients progressively started to ask me if I could also provide them with waxing services, so I decided to enrol at a college and complete a waxing training unit.

Meanwhile, while John had great success with his remedial massage there were some individuals who, for religious or other reasons, wanted to have a massage with a female rather than a male. Seeing this opportunity I decided to go back to college and complete a Swedish body massage course so that I could service these clients. This was just the beginning of my professional journey into the aesthetics industry as APJ 38

everything started to snowball from there on.

I have always been an avid student and love research and study, so progressively I continued to add to my qualification and my learning and training has never stopped.

Today, I have completed my education to deliver laser and IPL treatments including skin needling and skin and age-management treatments for more challenging skin conditions. I have now been studying and advancing my profession over the years and also enrolled in the Bachelor of Applied Health Science and completed 18 months of study to date.

APJ Q2: How long have you been in business and how has the business evolved over time?

I have been in business for 29 years. In that time I have observed how advances in the industry are also contributing to changes in consumer behaviour.

While in the past clients would come to a salon and be happy for one practitioner to do everything, this is now changing.

As the industry is constantly advancing there is so much to learn and practitioners must decide what they want to specialise in. Clients are now seeking specialists practitioners who can demonstrate that they had depth of knowledge and qualifications in the specific area of treatment they are seeking. This is now become the norm and this is why we are seeing that successful businesses in our industry are recognised for their area of specialisation.

APJ Q3: Your business is in Mangerton, tell us a little about this region and what needs do you target clients have?

Mangerton is located in Central Wollongong in regional NSW. Most of our clients come to us with sun-damaged skin, or more stubborn skin conditions such as acne. We also service quite a few professional women who are seeking to improve their appearance through various procedures including, Cosmetic Tattooing. Many of them have disposable income and want to continue to look their best.

APJ Q4: Share with us a special experience with a client that made you proud of what you do?

APJ Q6: What is the most exciting thing that you enjoy about your profession?

There are many instance where our services have contributed to changing a person’s life. A particular one that comes to mind is a client in her mid 30s. She had been coming to me for approximately 15 years for beauty treatments. She recently have a double mastectomy as a result of breast cancer, which left her devastated. I perform a cosmetic tattooing nipple areola treatment on both her breasts and this made a huge difference to her. Her emotional response was that she now felt complete. She later told me that when her little boy saw her naked after her mastectomy he kept asking her what was wrong with her.

What I love about our industry is that it is never stagnant.

There are so many new developments that challenge you to continue to learn and grow both as a professional and personally. Today clients demand that you are up-to-date with your knowledge if they will continue to come to you for your expertise. Continuing to research and learn is also a wonderful way of bringing excitement and fulfillment to my work.

Being able to feel normal again meant so much to her and it made me really appreciate that I could make such a positive contribution in a person’s life. Such moments are so rewarding and they fuel my passion to keep learning and improving. We touch peoples’ lives on so many levels, not just cosmetically.

APJ Q5: How do you and John relax after a heard working day? What do you enjoy doing that is not work-related?

John and I enjoy exercising and walking on the beach. We work indoors, so it is so enjoyable getting out and about in the fresh air. We also have a wonderful little dog that is our pride and joy. His name is Splash and he is a cross Pomeranian/Foxy. Splash is our baby and we adore him and enjoy going for walks with him. He is part of our family and we enjoy relaxing together.

APJ Q7: How has your APAN membership benefited you?

The need for on-going education is so important and APAN provide excellent conference programs with also great opportunities to network with other professionals and companies. They are great events that present the changes within our industry and where it is moving. We always get a lot of benefit from the conference programs. APJ is also full of great information and educational articles, and if we have a need it is good to know we can reach out to APAN for support and good advice. This is so important to every professional and business owner.

Boz and John are are a dynamic team. They complement each other in their business and through their professional skills. Together, they enjoy a happy professional and personal life — an excellent recipe for success. APJ If you would like to contact Boz Couldwell at NUYU phone 02 4227 2036 or email nuyu@optusnet.com.au

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SKINTREATMENTS

SKIN PEELING – BENEFITS AND PRECAUTIONS

by Dr Des Fernandes and Dr Ernst Eiselen SKIN peeling is commonly considered as a credible tool when addressing various skin conditions from skin rejuvenation, acne, solar keratoses and even pigmentation.

However, what works and what doesn’t work, and what precautions should we take when working with peeling agents?

This article is an extract from the book VITAMIN A SKIN SCIENCE authored by Dr Des Fernandes, renowned Plastic Surgeon and founder of Environ skincare, and Dr Ernst Eiselen — a medical practitioner from South Africa with deep interest in cell signalling in skin and extensive experience in dermatological problems who moved to Australia in 2007.

This article addresses how various peels work, their depth of penetration and their impact on skin cells. It also outlines risks and safety precautions as well as discusses safe and efficacious treatment strategies.

Some people shudder when they think of clinical-strength skin peeling procedures. First of all, they are worried about the pain, and secondly, they are alarmed by stories of how one looks after the peel. Finally, they are terrified of their skin being permanently damaged after being treated with a peeling procedure.

Peeling is not new, but goes back thousands of years. An ancient Egyptian papyrus described a peel done for an old man to make him look younger, and it reports that it was very successful. We should bear in mind that in those days an old man is something like 40 to 50 years of age.

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Peeling fell out of favour for the next 3000 years, but towards the end of the 19th century it started to become popular again, and by the 1950s heavy phenol peeling was considered to be the only effective method of rejuvenating the skin.

The frightening stories about peeling come from the experience with phenol. This heavy peel destroys the epidermis and the upper dermis almost right down to the hair roots and sweat glands. The surface epidermis must grow and cover the dermis again by activating the keratinocytes in the hair follicles and the sweat gland ducts. This takes at least 10 days and the patient has to literally go into hiding for that period. As a result of these deep phenol peels, the epidermis is very thin and flat and all the dermal papillae are destroyed and never return.

The skin becomes a bright pink colour that can last up to a year, depending on the person’s natural skin colour.

The dermis, however, is significantly scarred in the process and has very thick collagen deposition that smooths out the skin and gives it a youthful appearance. The thick scar collagen in time makes the skin look abnormally waxy, white and bloodless. However, in those days people were told that they had to use makeup for the rest of their life. They were also sun sensitive for the rest of their life.

One positive spin-off was that they were less likely to develop a skin cancer in the peeled areas because it seems that all of the cancer-prone cells were destroyed by the peeling process, and only less photodamaged cells remained. These cells became the new epidermis. The smoothing was at

times marvellously impressive, and unfortunately this probably engendered the notion that the deeper, more aggressive the peel, the better the result. This concept ultimately led to carbon dioxide laser resurfacing as an alternative to deep phenol peeling.

The belief that more aggressive peels give the best results unfortunately still persists even today, and many thousands of people have suffered from that delusion. Predictably, with such dramatic and destructive changes, the skin takes on an unnatural look after a time, and not surprisingly, phenol is being used much less frequently today. A serious risk in using phenol comes from its toxic effects on the heart leading to arrhythmia and even death.

SALICYLIC ACID, TCA PEELS AND GLYCOLIC PEELS Softer alternatives were explored, and one of them is salicylic acid for peeling. However, high doses of topical salicylic acid can cause tinnitus, nausea and vomiting. Hence, one must be careful to use only the lower doses of salicylic acid, which in turn do not peel the skin very much.

Trichloracetic acid (TCA peels) were introduced because they didn’t have dangerous side effects. While TCA peels are not as deep as phenol. They give rise to a pretty deep destruction of the epidermis and upper dermis, which can still cause scarring. It takes on average about a week to recover from a deep TCA peel.

AHA peels became popular because they are lighter and cause less damage. Glycolic gels of 50–70% strength applied for about a minute and a half to two minutes became very popular. However, they were still judged according to the principle that one need to cause destruction to get any effect.

There is an inherent problem in peeling because some people are very sensitive to even low doses of acids and will peel deeply, whereas others require much stronger acids to get a mild peel. This means that one has to individualise for every person, and experience reveals that the effects cannot easily be predicted. A new view on peeling works on the concept that a five per cent acid applied to the skin for 15-20mins

would cause less pain, but give the same results as a 35 per cent acid applied for one minute. This certainly reduces the pain, but by using simple principles inherent in normal physics one can get an even cooler peel: use low-concentration aids in a thick gel where the water component of the gel evaporates over several minutes. This will cool the surface through the process of heat loss by evaporation of water.

Even though the acid is reacting into the skin, the client is generally unaware of it. The application of a fan at the same time as performing the procedures will cool the skin even more by speeding up the evaporation process.

The old peels were designed to kill virtually the whole epidermis. The new concept of peeling works on the principle of stressing the basal keratinocytes, but not killing them. Research has shown that short episodes of heat help to generate growth factors in yeast cells and short episodes of 12 degrees Celsius also causes release of growth factors.

When we do a peel, we intend to rejuvenate the skin, and the best way to do that is to stimulate growth factors, and the new concept of cool peel works on the principle that if keratinocytes can be stressed sufficiently, they will release growth factors, which will rejuvenate the skin, promote new collagen and elastin and stimulate the production of GAGs. This is a regenerative mechanism rather than the destructive mechanism of traditional deep peeling techniques.

In this way we avoid complications of dermal scarring and we promote the thickening of the epidermis that is after all, our main defence against the environment. A distinct advantage of doing light peels is that one can repeat the peel at fairly frequent intervals and end up with the same result as a heavier peel, but without going through the trauma, or running the risk of unnecessary destruction of valuable skin layers and structures.

A most important point to remember is that no matter what type of peel one wishes to use, one should always prepare the skin with topical vitamins A, C and E and antioxidants for at least three weeks prior to the treatment.

Vitamin C will help to make more collagen an elastin and protect normal pigmentation production.

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risk of skin cancers leaving her skin looking blochy. We conducted a series of peels once a month, while she used topical vitamins A and C, as well as high doses of antioxidants twice a day. After six months she said the treatments had restored her dignity and self-confidence. She eventually lived to be over 100 years old and enjoyed her facial skin.

PIGMENTATION Peeling has a role to play in the treatment of acne wrinkles and solar keratoses, but only has a limited role in the treatment of abnormal pigmentation. The pigmented cells in abnormal pigmentation are often situated in the deep dermis, deeper than you can reach with even “deep” peeling. Consequently, although the abnormal pigmentation may get lighter or even disappear after a deep peel, it can reappear some years later and may even be larger and darker than before.

For abnormal pigmentation, one has to keep the epidermis thick, and treat the melanocytes with safe chemicals to change the amount of melanin formed and the way it is disseminated in the surrounding cells. One should avoid hydroquinone, which is a toxin to melanocytes and could cause achronosis. It is difficult to get vitamin C easily and safely deep into the skin at adequate doses through simply applying it as a topical. This can however be done by using enhanced skin penetration techniques like cosmetic needling and/or combined iontophoresis or sonophoresis.

COOL PEELING FOR ACNE Light repetitive peeling is an excellent way to treat acne, especially rampant acne, and one can treat both the face and the body this way.

Acne of the chest can cause a lot of psychological problems in young people, yet can surrender to regular peelings associated with topical vitamin A and cohort vitamins. This process may be improved by using neutralised lactic acid regularly as a skin toner with the topical vitamins.

In several cases, acne can be very reliably and safely controlled by even daily cool peeling done with a 2.5 per cent TCA or lactic acid applied for a maximum of 10 minutes. Because of the short exposure of the low concentration of acid, one does not experience any exfoliation or sun sensitivity.

COOL PEEL FOR SKIN REJUVENATION Cool peels can also be done at home daily, in conjunction with weekly treatments by a professional to get the fastest results. This may be done with a 2.5 or 5.0 per cent TCA or lactic acid. The regime starts with the therapist applying the light acid for about 20 minutes in a thick layer. Then the patient is given 2.5 per cent TCA or lactic acid which they should apply daily for a maximum time of only 10 minutes.

Once again, it is important to continue using vitamins A and C and antioxidants twice a day.

COOL PEELING TO TREAT SOLAR KERATOSES Conditions of solar keratoses can also benefit from a series of light peels. One example was an elderly lady aged 86 who had several solar keratosis that were removed to reduce the

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These are the broad principles concerning peeling that can be done on most skin types, although repetitive series of light peeling, enhanced penetration techniques can lead to still further improvement. APJ

SAFE RULES TO FOLLOW WITH PEELING 1. Never do heavy peeling. This is generally not safe for the skin.

2. Only do mild peels that can be repeated without any lasting stress on the skin.

3. Always prepare the skin for a peel by using topical vitamins A, C and E and antioxidants for at least three weeks before a peel. It is even better if the skin has been prepared for three months or more. The antioxidants, like vitamin C and E, especially applied to the skin when peeling is done, help to reduce the stress on the skin.

4. Avoid peeling in summer unless you are doing extremely light peels such as those that are done for acne. Those very light peels can safely be done all year round without causing problems.

5. Avoid bright sunlight on the skin for at least three weeks following a deep peel.

6. Always use suitable sunscreen (not less than SPF 15 with UVA and UVB protection and antioxidants) with powerful inorganic compounds of light reflectors to protect fragile skin. Avoid using sunscreens with excessively high SPF and high concentration or organic sunscreens as these pose the danger of aggravating the free-radical challenge to the skin. Inorganic sunscreens may be used without restriction. Always reapply every hour and a half if you have had a peel, and wear a broad brimmed hat that does not let sunlight through.

To access a copy of Vitamin A Skin Science – a scientific guide to health skin please phone Margifox Distributors 1300 850 008, www.margifox.com.au

EXPERIENCE THE SPECTRUM POINT OF DIFFERENCE

GET THE LATEST TECHNOLOGY IN IPL The Spectrum Lumiere is an outstanding piece of equipment that is the result of three years of development. It utilises state of the art technology paired with countless exciting features. Operating in both Intense Pulsed Light (IPL) and Super Hair Removal (SHR) modes, it does it all from hair reduction to acne, vascular, photorejuvenation and even pigmentation.

With a simple operating system and low operating costs, there’s nothing standing between your salon and this sleek piece of equipment.

If you would like to learn more about the Spectrum Lumiere please call 1300 766 198.

WHAT IS THE SPECTRUM POINT OF DIFFERENCE? Due to our impressive experience and expertise in the beauty, medical and aesthetic arenas we are able to provide an outstanding experience unlike any other. Meet, The Spectrum Point of Difference.

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DNASCIENCE

GENE EXPRESSION AND HOW YOU CAN CONTROL THEIR ACTIVITY

By Jacine Greenwood

CONTRARY to past beliefs new information on gene expression offers hope for all of us, revealing that we have a say in how our genes are switched on or off. Understanding the role of genes in the disease and ageing process is valuable information, not just for us, but also in helping us guide our clients.

This article presents interesting information that you can implement to help support your health and improve your wellbeing.

Human DNA has over 25,000 genes; each of the 23 pairs of human chromosomes encodes thousands of genes. Until recently it was believed that the genes you were born with determined the future status of your health. Now with the discovery of epigenetics, it is known that genes can get turned on and off. Our DNA is the code the body uses to build and regenerate itself. Genes however, need instructions on what to do and when to do it.

The DNA in the nucleus is precisely wound, folded, and compacted into chromosomes so that it will fit into the nucleus. It is also organised so that specific segments can be accessed as needed by a specific cell type.

Epigenetics describes the physiological reprogramming that occurs in the cell without changes in the DNA sequence. The main epigenetic tools used by the cell are: • DNA methylation • Histone modifications • Histone variants • Chromatin remodeling • Regulatory activity of microRNAs (miRNAs).

The combinative use of these tools regulates the accessibility of the DNA to outside factors in the nucleus, which affects

APJ 44

vital cellular processes including transcription and DNA repair.

The epigenetic modifications are known as tags and they provide the instructions to the DNA. Several of these tags have been discovered, but the two main ones involve methyl groups (made of carbon and hydrogen) and histones (a type of protein). To imagine how tags work, think of a gene as a lamp. Methyl groups act as an on-off switch that turn a gene on or off.

Histones, on the other hand, act like a dimmer switch, regulating gene activity up or down. It’s thought that we have four million of these switches that are triggered by lifestyle and environmental factors.

DNA modifications that do not change the DNA sequence can affect gene activity. Environmental influences, such as a person’s diet and exposure to pollutants, can also impact the epigenome.

Epigenetic changes can help determine whether genes are turned on or, off and can influence the production of proteins in certain cells, ensuring that only necessary proteins are produced. For example, proteins that promote bone growth are not produced in muscle cells. Patterns of epigenome modification vary among individuals, different tissues within an individual, and even different cells.

Our DNA is packaged by wrapping around histone proteins.

Histone proteins act like a spool that DNA can be wound around to become more compact. Initially, 146 base-pairs of DNA are wrapped. Under the electron microscope, this winding of DNA around histone proteins looks like small beads on a string . These beads (histone proteins) can move along the string (DNA) and change the structure of the molecule.

Histones package and order DNA into structural units called

nucleosome complexes, which can control the access of proteins to the DNA regions. If DNA encoding a specific gene is to be transcribed into RNA, the nucleosomes surrounding that region of DNA can slide down the DNA to open that specific chromosomal region and allow for the transcriptional machinery (RNA polymerase) to initiate transcription .

Nucleosomes can move to open the chromosome structure to expose a segment of DNA, but do so in a very controlled manner. Chemical modifications to either the histone proteins or the DNA itself signals whether or not a particular region of the genome should be "open" or "closed" to the transcription machinery.

When nucleosomes are spaced closely together (top), transcription factors cannot bind and gene expression is turned off. When the nucleosomes are spaced far apart (bottom), the DNA is exposed. Transcription factors can bind, allowing gene expression to occur.

Modifications to the histones and DNA affect nucleosome spacing. Modifications such as acetylation or methylation of the histones can alter how tightly DNA is wrapped around them, while methylation of DNA changes how the DNA interacts with proteins, including the histone proteins that control access to the region. This type of genetic regulation is called epigenetic regulation as it does not change the nucleotide sequence of the DNA.

DIET, SLEEP AND EXERCISE MODULATE GENE EXPRESSION There are many factors that influence whether genes are turned on or off. One of these is an epigenetic process called methylation, in which a group of carbon and hydrogen atoms (a methyl group) attaches to DNA, adjusting how genes are expressed. When methyl groups are added to a particular gene, that gene is turned off or silenced, and no protein is produced from that gene.

One of the factors that modulates gene expression is diet. A diet high in refined carbohydrates that promotes high blood glucose attacks your DNA. On the other hand, compounds like sulforaphane (found in broccoli), curcumin (turmeric), epigallocatechingallate (green tea), and resveratrol (wine) can slow or potentially reverse DNA damage.

Inadequate sleep also disrupts genetic activity. A team of researchers that included sleep science and genetics experts examined the influence of sleep on gene function and discovered that just a single week of insufficient sleep altered the activity of over 700 genes.

It’s well accepted that physical exercise is one of the best things you can do for your overall health and mental well-being. Now there’s evidence that physical exercise can positively affect gene expression.

SO DO STRESS, RELATIONSHIPS, AND THOUGHTS Not only do tangible factors like diet, sleep, and exercise affect your genes, so do intangibles like stress, your relationships with others, and your thoughts. One of the most powerful stress reduction techniques, mindfulness meditation, turns down the expression of pro-inflammatory genes thus reducing inflammation. This down regulation of inflammation occurred in as little as eight hours of meditation.

Dr. Dawson Church is an award-winning author whose bestselling book, Genie in Your Genes: Epigenetic Medicine and the New Biology of Intention, has been hailed as a breakthrough in the field of epigenetics. In his book, Church cites over 400 scientific studies that show how intangibles like the expression of gratitude, acts of kindness, optimism, and mind-body healing techniques like the Emotional Freedom Technique positively affect the expression of genes. And just as in the meditation study, these epigenetic benefits were often experienced immediately.

It’s not only positive habits that affect your genes though.

So do the bad ones. Substance abuse, addictions, inactivity, malnutrition, and exposure to toxins negatively affect the way your genes express themselves. Researchers have found that emotional factors such as trauma and stress can activate harmful epigenetic changes.

EPIGENETICS CHANGES LAST FOR GENERATIONS One of the most amazing and controversial discoveries is that epigenetic changes don’t stop with you. Epigenetic signals from the environment can be passed from one generation to the next, sometimes for several generations, without changing a single gene sequence.

Another way our genes are turned on, or off are through gene transcription. During transcription, the first step in reading the gene's directions and getting proteins made, the nucleus of the cell needs to figure out how to get its knowledge transferred. It does this by copying itself and sending the copy off to share the directions. This is like you copying out driving directions ahead of time and sharing them with everyone else.

Of course, if you can't get to those directions, you can't share them, either. That is how gene regulation works during transcription. A protein, called the transcription factor, can either cover up the gene directions or reveal them, thus determining whether the gene is on or off.

Epigenetics is an exciting new discovery that allows hope for those who have genetics that they inherited. The ability to switch on and off genes and to silence genes that can damage our health is an enormous breakthrough. The potential for health benefits as a result is limitless.

About the Author Jacine Greenwood is an internationally recognised educator who is known within the industry for her up to date knowledge and her ability to deliver training in an easy to understand method. Jacine holds 6 Diplomas and a Bachelor of Nursing and her knowledge is well respected by her peers.

She is also a qualified Cosmetic Chemist. With over 22 years experience in the industry and a background of cosmetic formulation, Jacine has an immense knowledge of current trends in research and new developments in the industry.

Jacine has been continually educating herself in all aspects of skin function and cosmetic chemistry for the past 22 years. Jacine’s knowledge is current and has a vast knowledge of the active ingredients that are being released onto the market. APJ

For a list of references, please contact the editor.

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REGULATIONUPDATE

AESTHETICS, COSMETIC MEDICINE AND SURGERY

CURRENT AND FUTURE REGULATORY CHANGES

by Terry Everitt IN this insightful article, Terry Everitt takes a diversion from his usual expertise to ask salon owners who provide cosmetic injectables “are you operating within the regulatory requirements?”

There is much going on ‘behind the scenes’ that may affect you and your business, regarding cosmetic injectables and beyond. He will also present within Cosmetic

Medicine and Surgery, who is trained to do what.

The article highlights a few recent examples of non-qualified people who thought they could get away with performing treatments that they were not trained to perform; in some cases, had no recognised training in Australia. This is part of a bigger picture in who is qualified for what, what is ahead for your treatment possibilities as legislation and regulation appear to be changing.

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There is no doubt that in Australia, like many other countries, cosmetic medicine and surgery is big business.

Every year Australians are consuming $350 million worth of Botox™® type procedures, having 8000 breast augmentation surgeries and 30,000 liposuction procedures.

The top five most popular procedures not surprisingly are anti-wrinkle injection, fillers, laser and IPL, breast augmentation and reduction and liposuction.

You need to know what is going on for your own benefit and to impart credible information to your clients.

In NSW The Daily Telegraph newspaper has been very strident in a special investigation they term ‘Scar Wars’ being the front-page headline (Sept 23, 2017), that has highlighted a lot of what is going on in the billion-dollar cosmetic surgery industry.

Before we get into the specifics of some of the instances of the cash-grab antics of some, we need to be clear of who can do what.

Currently in Australia, it is legal for any doctor with a basic medical degree to perform surgery. Herein lies the problem as there have been cases, sadly, that with a weekend course a few have called themselves cosmetic surgeons.

The Medical Board of Australia does not currently recognise cosmetic medicine or cosmetic surgery (with one exception) as a speciality practice, although the below mentioned ACCS is trying to gain such recognition as a named speciality only in cosmetic surgery.

In Australia, on completing a medical degree, a provisional registration is given and the person enters the workforce as an intern, generally for 12 months. At this point they become fully registered by the Medical Board of Australia. Degrees were mostly Bachelor of Medicine and Bachelor of Surgery (MBBS) or a Doctor of Medicine (MD). Now most universities are providing the MD qualification. Following this a residency program in a speciality in different areas such as General Practice, or Surgical, to become a Resident and then a Fellowship to become a Specialist in a particular area such as plastic surgery, general medicine or medical oncology. Such specialist titles have been in operation since July 2013, replacing various titles previously held.

RACS A doctor who has specialised in plastic surgery is known (since 2013) as a Specialist Plastic Surgeon who has FRACS

as a post nominal. The training is set by the Royal Australasian College of Surgeons (RACS), although confusingly is administered by the Australian Society of Plastic Surgeons Inc (ASPS). Therefore some 12 years of training later a doctor is then a Follow of the Royal Australasian College of Surgeons (FRACS). These are the specialist reconstructive and cosmetic surgeons (previously known as plastic surgeons).

Stay with me here; perhaps more coffee, but it pays to know this information.

ACCS The Australasian College of Cosmetic Surgery (ACCS) was formed in 1999 to promote training in cosmetic surgery as a speciality without the reconstruction surgical component as is the case with above mentioned ASPS. ACCS has developed their own training to undertake and examined to be awarded a Fellowship of the college, hence these trained cosmetic surgeons can use FACCS. More confusion comes in as ACCS also trains doctors in cosmetic medicine (no surgery); these doctors can have the post-nominal FFMACCS (Fellow of the Faculty of Medicine of the Australasian College of Cosmetic Surgery.)

CPCA The Cosmetic Physicians College of Australia was incorporated in 2014, previously known as the Cosmetic Physicians Society of Australasia, that had been in existence since 1997. Registered medical practitioners qualifying for Fellowship in cosmetic medicine must have at least five years full time-equivalent in cosmetic medical practice and/or successful completion of a fellowship-level training course in cosmetic medicine as approved by the Board. Successful candidates as fellows have the post nominal FCPCA. So then, if you or your clients are going for a cosmetic treatment of some kind then it is advisable to go to someone with the following post-nominals, at least you know they have had training in the treatment you or your client are proposing.

Always check the post-nominals your proposed provider has. In summary: • FCPCA or FFMACCS is a trained cosmetic medical practitioner • FACCS is trained in cosmetic surgery • FRACS is trained in all cosmetic and reconstructive surgery Now that we have that organised, let’s look at when things go wrong by the untrained.

In NSW, Annabel Hennessy reported in The Daily Telegraph, September 25, 2017, that a Western Sydney GP, Dr Les Blackstock, who has the Enhance Clinic, an alleged unlicensed clinic, had been ordered to stop performing cosmetic surgery after NSW Health had sent it “cease and desist” letters, is trying to lure women to the Gold Coast, offering a “heavier sedation level” on their Gold Coast premises.

The Daily Telegraph reported that the NSW Heath Minister, Mr Hazzard, said he was “particularly disturbed” that Enhance Clinic was trying to lure women to the Gold Coast where safety regulations around anaesthetic and licensing were less strict.

It was reported that Dr Blackstock had patients sign a form

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acknowledging that he might have to answer phone calls or take video calls from nurses administering Botox, while undertaking the surgery.

When I checked the Enhance Clinic website, their business directive is “service to facilitate finding you quality procedures in Australia in varying locations, Sydney, Gold Coast and Melbourne. “We are now no longer working with only one doctor and can offer a variety of experiences and pricing methods”. It also stated that Dr Blackstock has been advised to ‘withdraw from practice for the unforeseeable future.

NSW Health Minister Brad Hazzard is encouraging his state and territory counterparts to discuss introducing nationally consistent regulations for clinics.

The ‘Cosmetic Institute’ in Parramatta has been in the news - initially from reports of a patient who had a cardiac arrest after one breast had been implanted and the doctor continued the surgery to implant the other breast prior to calling for an ambulance to take the patient to hospital. Since this time, it is reported that other females have joined a class action suit against the Cosmetic Institute, alleging they had suffered heart attacks, punctured lungs and/or massive scarring. Most have had to have reconstructive or remedial surgery to ‘undo’ the damage.

Both a surgeon and a nurse from the clinic have ‘gone public’ with a litany of complaints against the clinic, including the news that some ‘cosmetic surgeons’ had in fact failed their GP exams and had only the university degree as a qualification.

No doubt you have heard of the case of Jean Huang, 35, the owner of The Medi Beauty Clinic in Chippendale NSW, who died after a breast enhancement went wrong.

Cannot blame the doctors this time as the ‘practitioner’ was a Chinese tourist, Jie Shao, who performed the treatment.

Jie Shao has been charged with recklessly inflicting grievous bodily harm and using poison to endanger life. Amazingly, Jie was to fly out of Australia returning to China the day after the operation.

Another case to highlight was that of Ms Pu Liu, also known as Mabel Liu, had been performing cosmetic procedures in a residential apartment in the Sydney suburb of Five Dock.

The NSW Health Care Complaints Commission (HCCC) Public Statement warned that cosmetic services were being offered by an unregistered practitioner through social media sites such as WeChat, a popular platform in the Chinese community.

Ms Liu, a non-registered health practitioner had performed eyelid suturing procedures among other cosmetic procedures, administering unknown and unapproved anaesthetic agent by injection.

The full report of the site inspection is horrific reading and I will not go into it.

In NSW, since March 2017, all facilities undertaking cosmetic surgical procedures (except dental procedures) must be licensed and those conducting cosmetic surgery at unlicensed premises face a penalty of up to $550,000. All states have similar provisions.

IMPORTED DRUGS If you are wondering how non-doctors get the supplies and equipment, it is easy. Again, NSW is leading with the Department of Health undertaking several raids of salons and clinics, finding a host of illegal injectable neuro-relaxants and dermal fillers, topical anaesthetics and antibiotics – all from China or South Korea. An interesting report published in the NSW’s The Daily Telegraph, Sept 29th, 2017, details what was found in these raids and none of the ‘practitioners’ had the qualification to undertake such use. Evidence was uncovered of interstate doctors prescribing Schedule 4 drugs to clients they had not seen, with no medical practitioner on any of the premises where the Schedule 4 drugs were being used.

OK, so maybe (I really do hope) you are not undertaking cosmetic surgery in your clinic as now you know who you should see for such treatments. However, it is a different story with cosmetic medicine – specially injectables.

Are you allowing cosmetic injectables to be performed in your establishment?

As the law stands at present, this is allowed, although for how much longer is not known. However I think it will be sooner than later that this will change.

ADVERTISING COSMETIC SERVICES Are you working in or owning a premise where you advertise cosmetic procedures? I believe many of the clinics/salons that are providing ‘health services’; are totally unaware that in doing so, they fall under the ‘National Law’. The National Law is the short version used for the Health Practitioner Regulation National Law Act 2009. The National Law is under the auspices of the Australian Health Practitioner Regulation Agency (AHPRA) and covers all health practitioners in Australia.

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SECTION 133 OF THE NATIONAL LAW While you may not be a regulated health practitioner as defined by AHPRA, your business may provide such treatments by the regulated health practitioner i.e. by a doctor or nurse — this is where you would come under the Section 133 of the National Law. Under Section 133 of the National Law, a regulated health service, or a business providing a regulated health service must not advertise in a way that: • is false, misleading or deceptive, or is likely to be so • offers a gift, discount or other inducement to attract a user of the health service without stating the terms and conditions of the offer • uses testimonials, or purported testimonials • creates an unreasonable expectation of beneficial treatment, and/or • encourages the indiscriminate, or unnecessary use of health services.

If you are providing such a service at your business, you need to be very careful in what you say as per the above bullet points.

Enforcement tools available under the National Law include the power to: • investigate a practitioner’s conduct • impose conditions on the practitioner’s registration restricting their ability to advertise their services • take disciplinary action in a panel or tribunal and/or • prosecute an advertiser of a regulated health service (which may be a registered health practitioner, another person or a business).

It is the last bullet point that concerns you. Currently the maximum penalty for each advertising offence is $5,000 for an individual and $10,000 for a body corporate. Again, you are not physically and personally providing the service, it is

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the business that is providing the service, in that the service takes place at/in the business.

AHPRA recently released the Advertising Compliance and Enforcement Strategy, which outlines their approach to ensuring the responsible advertising of health services.

If that is not bad enough, perhaps more importantly is that you may be in breach of the Therapeutic Goods Administration’s (TGA’s) Therapeutic Goods Act 1989 requirements.

Basically, advertising of named prescription-only products to consumers is illegal. You really don’t want to breach this as this offence attracts a maximum penalty of $12,600 for an individual and $63,000 for a body corporate. You can read all about Advertising Cosmetic Services. The TGA information does contain guidelines as to what you can say and use in your advertising.

Currently there is a push that has started in NSW and the Health Minister wants his colleagues in all other States and Territories to make legislation changes to make sure that: • The doctor prescribing cosmetic injectables must have an in-person face-to-face consultation with the patient, and be on the premises if a nurse acting on his/her behalf is injecting patients.

• Cosmetic injectables should not be given in non-medical settings where complications cannot be dealt with.

Under the proposed NSW legislation, any clinic that administers any ‘cosmetic’ injections will need to be licensed, which has the backing of many physician groups with the Australian Society of Plastic Surgeons Dr Gazi Hussain being reported as stating “lack of doctor supervision was risking patient safety”.

Cosmetic Physicians College of Australasia (CPCA) released a press statement Sept 11th, 2017 calling for stronger regulations for cosmetic treatments such as laser, botox and fillers. The CPCA said it welcomed last week’s announcement that the NSW government will review regulations for beauty clinics, but has written to the Minister for Health to request that all aspects of cosmetic medicine form part of the review and believes the use of such terms as ‘Medi’ by non-medical

practitioners should be banned.

The CPCA also wants personal interviews, not by video (which is currently allowed), for prescribing of Schedule 4 medicines.

Video consultations were introduced primarily for rural and isolated areas so that access to specialists was available, however this provision has been abused.

“The reality is that some practitioners are now using video to remotely perform perfunctory, inadequate consultations and then instructing nurses in beauty clinics to administer the treatment, which is an abuse of what was otherwise an excellent amendment to facilitate speedier delivery of urgent medical treatments in remote areas,” Dr Dingley of the CPCA said.

While this is being pushed by NSW, the Health Minister wants all Health Ministers to undertake such reforms.

MEDICAL BOARD HANDED MORE POWER TO SUSPEND DOCTORS The Medical Board of Australia has been given new powers to immediately suspend, or impose conditions on doctors even if they are not an immediate threat to patient safety.

The powers allow the watchdog to take immediate action against any doctor on the grounds of “public interest”.

The amendment, following its recent passage through the Queensland Parliament, will apply in all states and territories except WA and SA, which must pass their own laws to effect the changes, which is expected as a priority for these two states. This will then have Australia-wide affect with the potential of very serious implications for affected doctors and those close to them. This will end the ‘skype’ consultations.

professional development to ensure best practice. Commitment to such standards will give APAN validated reason to fight for qualified practitioners to maintain their rights to practice.

If you are not a member of APAN, then I urge you to join – join the fight to protect your future. If you do not support their endeavours their may be consequences that you may not like.

Each professional body has its own strength and expertise.

There is no doubt that in the regulatory arena APAN has strong commitment and expertise. Your membership will not only allow you to access expert advise and support in numerous areas, but it will also contribute to supporting those important activities that will effect your future.

There is no doubt that legislation and regulations will change and without a viable, strong voice of many members supporting the process, the legislation and regulation most likely will go against you. It pays to be informed and to stand with APAN on these issue. APJ Terry Everitt is regarded as a ‘Master Skincare Professional’ due to his extensive knowledge of the art and science of skincare. A very competent educator who continues to lecture from an evidence based scientific background. Terry is the Director of Aesthetic Educators Pty Ltd. To contact Terry you can reach him aestheticeductors@gmail.com.

For a list of references, please contact the editor.

If all the proposed actions take place, this will end the rampant use of the ‘cosmetic injector’ going around unlicensed premises as the doctor will need to be on the premise to undertake the consultation and oversee the injection procedures.

WHAT MAY YOU LOSE These proposed actions are all within the bigger picture of legislation that is impacting on what you do. If you do not stand up and help the fight against more restrictions on your service and treatment availability, then you possibly will lose a lot of what you do. Think IPL and specifically Laser, use of topical anaesthetic, even to cosmetic tattoo among a list of possible restrictions.

Many of these restrictions are sadly all about “turf war” with others wanting the control of treatment modalities.

APAN CONTINUES THE FIGHT I am sure most of you are totally unaware the work that Tina Viney and APAN are doing in the fighting for on your behalf, to ensure that government agencies and medical bodies do not take away your rights to continue to perform your various treatment modalities and control them for themselves.

For this reason APAN strongly supports the needs for practitioners to ensure that they gain appropriate qualifications for the modalities they practice, while also invest in on-going

APJ 51 Bitmap in CEO Report Mar17

TIPS FOR BETTER BUSINESS

Business & Legislation, New Tools and Research Outcome

My dad taught me that failing simply just leads you to the next great thing.”

Speaking of that, Blakely herself failed twice before founding Spanx.

On that particular chapter of her life, she says, “It was one of many tests that showed me how some of the biggest failures in our lives just nudge us into another path.”

A NEW WAY AT LOOKING AT FAILURE SARA Blakely founded Spanx is in her late 20s. The company made $4 million in sales in its first year and $10 million in its second year. In 2012, Forbes named Blakely the youngest self-made woman billionaire in the world.

She is clearly massively successful. Yet when asked what the best advice she ever received was, she doesn’t talk about success.

Instead, she talks about how, as a child, her father would sit her down at the dining room table and ask her the same question: “What did you fail at this week?”

He didn’t want to know how many As she’d gotten. He wasn’t interested in how many girl scout cookies she’d sold, how many goals she’d scored on her soccer team, or whether she’d gotten a perfect score on her math test.

No, he wanted to know what she had failed at. And when she told him, do you know what his reaction was? He high-fived her.

Think about that for a minute: Every week growing up, her father made her reflect on something she’d failed at, then showed her that not only was she still loved after failing, but she was celebrated for it.

In an interview for Fortune, Blakely said, “I didn’t realise at the time how much this advice would define, not only my future, but my definition of failure. I have realised as an entrepreneur that so many people don’t pursue their idea because they were scared, or afraid of what could happen.

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Those who’ve made it big repeat that one of the main reasons they got to where they are is by taking risks. Over and over, they talk about the importance of taking leaps, which sometimes means falling down. Consider the following quotes from world achievers: • “Only those who dare to fail greatly can ever achieve greatly.” Robert F. Kennedy • “Success is stumbling from failure to failure with no loss of enthusiasm.” Winston Churchill • “Failure is another steppingstone to greatness.” Oprah • “I have not failed. I’ve just found 10,000 ways that won’t work.” Thomas Edison Yet, for as many times as we are told that taking risks is good and failing is OK, we tend to shy away from it in our own lives. Why? Probably because we grew up in schools that tended to only reward “success” (getting the answer right).

We were trained to become perfectionists.

If you’re going to rewrite that script, it’s not going to be by convincing yourself of it intellectually. It’s going to be by actually doing things you’re not sure of or good at, then being proud of yourself for failing. It’s not just the failing that’ll help you get there, it’s the encouragement for trying in the first place.

So: What have you failed at this week? If you can’t think of anything, go find something you can improve on and give yourself a high-five.

Source: https://www.inc.com/melanie-curtin/billionaireceo-sara-blakely-says-these-7-words-are-best-career-advice-she-ever-got.html

THE SEVEN KEYS TO A BUSINESS GROWTH STRATEGY THAT BRING IMMEDIATE RESULTS IF only half the start-up businesses survive more than five years and only one-third make it to 10 years, what’s the one thing you could do to ensure your business is sustainable?

The answer is to create a growth strategy for your business, of course.

A growth strategy involves more than simply envisioning long-term success. If you don’t have a tangible plan, you’re actually losing business, or you’re increasing the chance of losing business to competitors.

The key with any growth strategy is to be deliberate. Figure out the rate-limiting step in your growth, and pour as much fuel on the fire as possible. But for this to be beneficial, you need to take the following steps: 1. Establish a value proposition For your business to sustain long-term growth, you must understand what sets it apart from the competition. Identify why customers come to you for a product or service. What makes you relevant, differentiated and credible? Use your answer to explain to other clients why they should do business with you.

For example, some companies compete on “authority”. For example, in Queensland Flannerys is the definitive place to buy organic and wholefoods. On the other hand when you think of Kmart you know they compete on price. Figure out

what special benefit only you can provide, and forget everything else. If you stray from this proposition, you’ll only run the risk of devaluing your business.

2. Identify your ideal client You got into business to provide a service and solve a problem for a certain clientele. audience. Who are these clients?

Are they your ideal client? If not, who are you serving? Nail down your ideal client and revert back to this audience as you adjust business to stimulate growth.

3. Define your key indicators Changes must be measurable. If you’re unable to measure a change, you have no way of knowing whether it’s effective.

Identify which key indicators affect the growth of your business, then dedicate time and money to those areas. Also, test properly making changes over time and comparing historical and current results.

4. Verify your revenue streams What are your current revenue streams? What revenue streams could you add to make your business more profitable? Once you identify the potential for new revenue streams, ask yourself if they’re sustainable in the long run.

Some great ideas, or cool products don’t necessarily have revenue streams attached. Be careful to isolate and understand the difference.

5. Look to your competition No matter your industry, your competition is likely excelling at something that your company is struggling with. Look toward similar businesses that are growing in new, unique ways to identify your growth strategy. Don’t be afraid to ask for advice. Ask yourself why your competitors have made alternate choices. Are they wrong? Or are your businesses positioned differently? The assumption that you’re smarter is rarely correct.

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6. Focus on your strengths This is a good one. Sometimes, focusing on your strengths rather than trying to improve your weaknesses can help you establish growth strategies. Reorientate the playing field to suit your strengths, and build upon them to grow your business.

7. Invest in talent Your employees have direct contact with your clients, so you need to hire people who are motivated and inspired by your company’s value proposition. Hire few employees, but make sure they are the best and pay them well. The best ones will usually stick around if you need to cut back their compensation during a slow period.

Developing a growth strategy isn’t a one-size-fits-all process.

In fact, due to changing market conditions, making strategic decisions based on someone else’s successes would be foolish. That’s not to say that you can’t learn from another company, but blindly implementing a cookie-cutter plan won’t create sustainable growth.

You need to adapt your plan to smooth out your business’s inefficiencies, refine its strengths and better suit your clients - who could be completely different than those from a vague, one-size-fits-all strategy.

Your company’s data should lend itself to all your strategic decisions. Specifically, you can use the data from your key indicators and revenue streams to create a personalised growth plan. That way, you’ll better understand your business and your clients’ nuances, which will naturally lead to growth.

A one-size-fits-all strategy implies vague indicators. But a specific plan is a successful plan. When you tailor your growth strategy to your business and clients, you’ll keep your clients happy and fulfil their wants and needs, which will keep them coming back.

Source: https://www.entrepreneur.com/article/240853

FIVE MISTAKES SUCCESSFUL BUSINESS ENTREPRENEURS DON’T MAKE TWICE

The journey to start and grow your business can be a rocky road. There are things that you can only learn from experience. Some of these lessons have to be learnt, but there are many you can avoid if you know what to watch out for.

As we are aware the stats on business failure are downright depressing, but those stats don’t have to be your story. Failure doesn’t have to be business-ending event; it can be one necessary step in the journey to create the business and life you want.

As you start or build your business, watch out for these five things that successful entrepreneurs would never do again.

1. Hesitate to raise their prices Self-limiting beliefs in yourself. or your business can keep your prices out of line from the value and results you get for your clients. You do good work, but you worry that if you raise your prices you’ll lose too much business.

Our goal should always be to get compensated what we’re worth. If a client doesn’t want to accept your services because your prices are too high, they’re probably someone you wouldn’t want to work with anyway. Successful entrepreneurs avoid “tire kickers” at all cost. They learned long ago it’s not worth the effort to try to convert them, and even if they did, there will always be a complaint from them.

Good clients see the value in engaging an expert with skill and experience as they consider the value they will provide them with. Pricing should be based on value, and successful business owners charge according. If you’re doing good work and helping people, charge a fair price that makes what you do worth your time and effort. Your time is your most valuable resource.

2. Blindly following popular accepted advice There are tips and strategies that have been passed around so much they’re considered fact. These urban legends might work for some other business owner, but that doesn’t mean it will have any impact on your business.

Testing and feedback from your clients are the only ways to hone in on best practices and what you need to help your business grow. Your decisions should be based on figures, not hearsay. The next time you see someone touting their amazing results from using a certain strategy, smile and determine to research it for yourself. It’s better to make a profit than be popular.

3. Give away their expertise for free There was a time when the “free” consultation call was how you got business. These days we have blogs, podcasts, and video. We put free information out to the world as a way of starting to get customers to know, like, and trust us.

These mediums are the new free consultation call.

People don’t value something they get for free. You lessen the value of what you sell, and you sacrifice your most valu-

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able resource, your time. Every minute of a successful entrepreneurs time has a cost associated with it. They don’t waste it by giving it away for free.

4. Give credence to the detractors There are too many jaded present and former business owners and customers. Their main goal is to try to bring everyone else down to their level. Avoid these people and what they have to say. Their negativity will affect you and how you see what you’re building. Realise what happened to them doesn’t have to happen to you, and what they say has no bearing on your success. Ignore the detractors and choose to spend your energy on those whom you serve. You’re not doing what you do for them, you’re doing this to help and serve your customers.

5. Lose focus These days the Internet and social media have created an environment that’s ripe with distraction. We hear the popular advice, we witness success from other business owners and we get distracted trying to replicate what they’re doing.

The key to gaining traction in your business is learning and understanding where to focus your time and what strategies will work for your business. You ignore what could work and use data to amplify what does works. Working in uninterrupted blocks of time is a secret strategy of successful business owner.

This can be one of the best years for your business or the same as every other year. We all can benefit from the knowledge and experiences of those that came before us. If you’re going to fail, do it quickly and recover ready to make your business even stronger.

Source: https://www.entrepreneur.com/article/241689

STRATEGIES FOR DIGGING YOUR BUSINESS OUT OF SERIOUS DEBT

able for? While there isn’t a straightforward answer to these questions, you should be able to determine, relatively quickly, what business debt can affect you on a personal basis.

For starters, if you’re operating a sole proprietorship, or act as an independent contractor, you and your business are legally considered the same thing. You owe every cent that your business can’t pay, which means creditors can come after your personal assets when all of the business assets have been seized.

In most cases, general partnerships operate the same way.

However, there’s an interesting difference. Because both you and your partner(s) are 100 per cent liable for business debt, creditors can take money from any of the partners.

That means if all of your partners are broke, creditors can seize 100 per cent of the debt from your personal assets.

The benefit of operating under a corporation or LLC is that you and your business are considered separate legal entities. Creditors can’t touch your house or personal assets. But as always, there are some exceptions.

Creditors know that a corporation or LLC’s stakeholders aren’t liable for the debt. They’ll often require business owners and partners to sign personal guarantees; these promise they’ll satisfy the debt if the business is unable to do so. If you’ve signed any personal guarantees on your business debt, you are, in fact, liable. It’s also possible that you’ve offered up your house as collateral for a loan. Unfortunately, there’s no easy way of getting around this.

There are some other unique situations that could make you liable for personal debt, but this covers the most common issues. And regardless of whether or not you’re personally liable for your small business debt, it’s smart to start thinking about ways to dig yourself out. Debt can constrict

Despite the fact that you have tried your best several misadventures - a bad staff experience, illness, a poor investment that didn’t meet up to your expectations have all contributed to getting you into serious financial problems. Digging out of business debt really isn’t all that different from pulling yourself out of personal debt.

While most people consider some debt to be healthy, too much debt is certainly not good for a small business. It acts as a weight around your ankle, holding you back from accomplishing your long-term financial goals. Serious debt is something that creeps up on a lot of business owners, so you’re not alone.

Business debt and personal liability When serious debt is an issue, the first thing most business owners want to talk about is liability. What debt is exclusive to the business? And what, if anything, are you personally li-

your company’s ability to grow and can come back to haunt you, both personally and professionally.

Digging out of business debt really isn’t all that different from pulling yourself out of personal debt. You have to find a way to spend less than you make and put the remaining money towards your debts until they’re paid off.

Don’t confuse the simplicity of the objective with effortless

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execution, though. It’s going to take some hard work, so roll your sleeves up and let’s get started. Here are some useful strategies that can help: 1. Check your credit report The very first thing you need to do is get the lay of the land.

It’s impossible to tackle any issue, including debt, if you don’t first have all the information and understand the facts.

One specific thing you’ll want to do is check your credit scores and reports. Even small things dramatically affect a credit score and you need to have a clear picture of what’s happening. This means reviewing your personal score, as well as analysing your business score.

While your credit score is a quick analysis of where you stand on a uniform ranking scale, a credit report actually shows you what sort of accounts you have open. As a result, you can clearly see what debt you have and begin to create a game plan for attacking it.

2. Snowball debt payments Paying off debt is psychological as much as anything else.

If you get aggressive with your debt, yet fail to see results, you’ll likely throw in the towel. On the other hand, if you start to gain some traction and see some debts disappear, the momentum builds. That’s why many financial experts suggest snowballing your debt payments.

In order to snowball your debt payments, you start by listing off your debts smallest to largest. (Note: This is contrary to the traditional route of ranking debts from the highest to lowest interest rate.) With these debts ranked, you start chipping away at your debt in order.

Because you’re tackling your smallest debts first, you start to see some “wins” immediately. You get rid of a $500 debt here, a $3,500 debt there and a $7,000 debt over there. Sure, you still have the $50,000 equipment loan and $350,000 mortgage, but you’ll eventually get to those. For now, you’re cleaning things up so that you’ll have the focus and motivation to deal with the bigger debts when the time is right.

3. Negotiate with creditors Sometimes it’s helpful to look at debt from the perspective of the creditor. If you’ve ever had a client or customer owe you money for a long period of time, then you know what it’s like. At some point, you count the debt as a loss and assume you’ll never see it. Thus, if that client were to contact you months later and offer to settle for a lower amount, you’d likely accept.

The same is true with your own business debt. If you have delinquent debts that you can’t afford to pay in full contact the creditor and offer to settle for a percentage of the total amount. Most will negotiate and accept a lesser amount, just to get you off their books.

4. Hire your spouse Unless you suddenly see a massive increase in revenue, you’ll have to find a way to cut costs in order to free up money to pay off debt. You can do this in a variety of ways, but one clever strategy is to hire a family member to help you.

This strategy only works in certain situations, but can be enormously helpful when it does. It works like this: You find a position in your business that your spouse can fill. Instead of hiring someone like you usually would, you put your spouse APJ 56

in that position and pay a percentage of the going rate. If you would have paid a $45,000 salary, maybe you only pay $20,000. Sure, it has a temporary effect on your personal household income, but it frees up a couple thousand dollars per month that can go towards paying down debt.

This strategy obviously only works as a short-term fix, and you need an agreeable spouse who is willing to sacrifice time and money for the good of the company, but it is effective.

5. Chase down late paying clients Maybe you have some late paying clients of your own who have unpaid debts. Now’s a good time to chase them down and collect what you’re owed. Again, you might be willing to settle for 50- or 60-cents on the dollar if means collecting on a debt that you know you won’t see in full.

You can turn around and use this money to pay down your own debt. It’s a win-win situation for everyone involved.

6. Sell off assets One proactive option is to sell off some assets to pay off your debts. Spend some time thinking about your business and its processes. Are there certain things you could do differently without impacting the quality of goods or services you provide?

You might find that you can sell a piece of expensive equipment and buy a cheaper, used version without much of a drop-off. Get creative and you might discover some options here.

Shift your mentality regarding debt We live in a country where debt is praised. Whether it’s personal debt or business debt, people love spending money they don’t have. Sometimes it’s necessary, such as when you’re trying to scale a business , but much of the debt companies take on is foolish.

As a business owner, entrepreneur and individual, it’s time to shift your mentality regarding debt. It’s a myth that large purchases require debt and you need to get this concept out of your mind.

Many successful business owners who have built an eight-figure business empire without incurring any debt did so by renting equipment until he can pay in cash, outsources to avoid debt and buys used instead of new to save a considerable amount of money.

The best way to grow your business is to take a lesson from The Tortoise and the Hare. Slow and steady always wins the race. You don’t need to borrow money to make it big. Instead, save for what you need and then expand. It lowers risk and minimises mistakes. And that’s the truth.

Debt might not be evil, but taking on too much debt will hold your business back and lead to a lot of stressful, sleepless nights.

Now’s the time to get a grip on what’s happening and start clawing your way out. It might take years, but you’ll eventually experience the freedom that comes with owning a business that isn’t controlled by creditors.

LEARN ABOUT PERFORMANCE IMPROVEMENT STRATEGIES Do you have the responsibility for supervising the work of others? If so, you know that employees don’t always do what you want them to do. On the one hand, they act as if they are competent professionals. On the other, they procrastinate, miss deadlines, and wait for instructions. They blame others when their work is unsuccessful. And worst of all, employees become defensive when you try to coach them to successful performance improvement through excellent, goal-accomplishing work.

So, what’s a supervisor to do? Performance improvement is your answer. You must begin by finding out exactly why the employee is not meeting your expectations. Perhaps the employee is unclear about what you want him to do. He may lack the time, tools, talent, training, or temperament required to effectively perform the job.

He may disagree with your requirements or expectations.

Regardless, you won’t have a performing, engaged employee until you identify what is wrong with the employee’s functioning.

Diagnosing Performance Improvement Opportunities and Problems When an employee is failing at work, ask yourself the question, “What about the work system is causing the person to fail?” Most frequently, if the employee knows what they are supposed to do, you will find the answer is time, tools, training, temperament or talent.

Performance Improvement Questions These are the key questions that you and the employee will want to answer to diagnose performance problems that result in the need for you to seek performance improvement.

This checklist for employee performance improvement will help diagnose the performance issue.

• What about the work system is causing the person to fail?

• Does the employee know exactly what you want him to do? Does he know the goals and the outcomes expected?

Does he share the picture you have for the end result?

• Does the employee have confidence in her competence

to perform the tasks associated with the goal? You may find that procrastination is often the result of an employee lacking confidence in her ability to produce the required outcome. Or procrastination can result from the employee being overwhelmed with the magnitude of the task.

• Is the employee practicing effective work management?

As an example, does he break large tasks into small chunks of doable actions? Does he have a method for tracking project progress and to do lists?

• Have you established a critical path for the employee’s work? This is the identification of the major milestones in a project at which you’d like feedback from the employee. Do you keep your commitment to attend the meetings at which this feedback is provided?

• Does the employee have the appropriate and needed people working with him or the team to accomplish the project? Are other members of the team keeping their commitments and if not, is there something the employee can do to help them?

• Does the employee understand how her work fits into the larger scheme of things in the company? Does she appreciate the value her work is adding to the company’s success?

• Is the employee clear about what constitutes success in your company? Perhaps he thinks that what he is contributing is good work and that you are a picky, overly-managing supervisor.

• Does the employee feel valued and recognised for the work she is contributing? Does she feel fairly compensated for her contribution?

Understanding these issues in performance improvement enables a manager to help an employee succeed. When you follow these steps and answer these questions in a performance improvement model, the employee can be helped to succeed.

These are just some questions you may wish to investigate to help eliminate staff performance blocks and help you establish better performance strategies that will support your business growth. APJ Source: https://www.thebalance.com/performance-improvement-strategies-1918714

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STEPS TO BURNOUT RECOVERY

By Tina Viney

AS part of APAN membership one of the services we provide is a one-hour, one-on-one coaching session. It’s amazing what comes up at these sessions, particularly for business owners who still continue to deliver hands-on treatments, while also taking care to develop their staff, not to mention also making management and leadership decisions on how the business should be run. With this amount of diverse responsibility and work overload it is not uncommon for many of them to experience burn out. It is quite easily to identify this when speaking with them — they jump from one topic to the other, their voice is often higher pitched than normal, there is evidence of anxiety and overwhelm in how they APJ 58

present their problems and sometimes they even burst into tears. Despite how hard they are trying they don’t seem to be getting on top of their problems.

With burnout, most of us have been there at some point in our careers, and many of us will get there again. Burnout, often can happen because you love what you do and do it so much that it’s hard to stop, leading to a feeling of overwhelm, frustration and exhaustion.

Burnout happens when you are working too much, start feeling like you never have enough time, begin to get

consumed by the stress, and worst of all — you slowly lose some of the passion you have for your work. Work is no long enjoyable, but this can be one of the most effective wake-up calls that something in your life has to change. If you’re dealing with burnout and aren’t sure how to get yourself back on track, here are a few ways to recover.

TAKE A BREAK I particularly wanted to cover this topic as we come to the end of a year, because this is one of the best times to take stock of where you are and devise a recovery plan. However, there is a right way and a wrong way to take your break – it must be work-free otherwise your recovery tactic can backfire. It is absolutely amazing how therapeutic it can be if you totally distance yourself from your day-to-day work routine.

You will give yourself time to free yourself from some of this stress and make room to regain a fresh new perspective on the situation. You will then be able to identify the decisions you need to make to improve your work, your relationship with your staff and your business direction.

I know that most business owners are addicted to their work and feel a sense of obligation and responsibility to be constantly connected to their work, but too much of a good thing can sometimes be bad for you. Here is a perfect example of what I am trying to say through another parallel.

While food can be nutritious, eating too much of it, or eating under stress, or in a hurry may not allow your body to digest it properly and fully access those nutrients and process them adequately. Giving your body a break from food is one of the best ways to rejuvenate, not just your digestive system, but also all the organs in your body. In fact, study confirm that fasting and intermittent fasting can have positive effects on extending our life.

Likewise, taking a break from all the pressures of your work and giving your brain the opportunity to rest and disconnect from all the challenges and concerns of work and life, will renew your strength and allow you to see thing more clearly and from a fresh perspective. To benefit the most from the best mindset when taking a break, you need to first take some pre-holiday steps before you leave to keep things running, while you’re away. Take a few moments to also evaluate your current situation and identify contributing factors to your burnout. Here are some steps you can consider: RE-EVALUATE YOUR PRIORITIES Sometimes all it takes to recover from burnout is taking a step back and looking at the big picture. What are the most important issues in your life and how well are you managing everything? Are you trying to handle too much all at once?

Can you break the tasks down in smaller sizes and rearrange how you tackle these issues? Should you look at engaging some assistance? Where has most of your time been going?

It is quite common that as a business grows and new tasks are added to old tasks the pressure becomes too much and your expectation of yourself may no longer be realistic.

Stepping back and evaluating the situation will allow you to identify why things are no longer working for you and this will give you the opportunity to consider and make the necessary adjustments.

IDENTIFY THE SOURCES OF STRESS Whenever I feel burnout coming close, I can almost always point to one or two things that are causing me the most stress. It could be the fear of resolving an issue, or a task that seems too daunting to complete within a particular time frame. Being aware of these stress triggers indicates to me

that I need to stop and evaluate the best possible approach, or strategy where I can act wisely and effectively. I realise I shouldn’t allow my emotions to dictate here, but I must be tactical and logical in how I am going to overcome these challenges. Once I have identified the best approach to take I then I give myself the time frame when I will deal with these issues. Indeed, one of the best ways to add to your anxiety is to procrastinate in doing what you need to do.

ADDRESS AND ELIMINATE Once you know what your biggest stressors are, take them one-by-one and look at them objectively. Is the desired end result worth the stress it’s causing you right now? Is there a defined end that you can work toward? Could the situation be improved if you address it with other people involved?

Could you reduce the stress just by changing the way you react to it? Address the stress head-on when possible, then make the decision to keep going, or to get rid of it entirely.

For example, if you find that your business is always very busy but you are not making enough money to survive, evaluate the services that take a lot of time and bring very little return and get rid of them. Then focus to grow on what is making you the best profits that will allow you to grow.

LEARN TO SAY NO If you want to better cope with stress that leads to burnout, you will need to learn when to say no. You cannot be everything to all people. You will need to identify and say no to time-wasters. You will also need to stay away from negative people that discourage you and pull you down. Stay focus on a solutions-orientated mindset and surround yourself people who can encourage that in you. Be influenced by people who have made it through similar problems and learn from them. Maintain your can-do mentality, just find ways to achieve what you need with a level of balance.

IMPLEMENT CHANGES You have heard of repetitive stress syndrome – doing the same physical activity repeatedly can cause injury to your muscles and nerves. Likewise, if you have burnout because you are doing too much of the same thing look at making changes to the tasks you are doing. Take appropriate breaks, or find something new to do and delete some of your tasks to someone else.

DON’T BE AFRAID TO ASK FOR HELP Burnout isn’t a solitary problem, the impact reaches your family members, friends, clients and colleagues, especially if you start to lag on deadlines and responsibilities. Therefore, it makes sense that rebounding from burnout is also a group activity. It won’t be a secret to those around you that you’re burning out, so ask for their support as you take control of the situation.

IT’S TIME TO GET AWAY FROM IT ALL Studies clearly indicate that productivity decrease with individuals who multi-task without breaks. Give yourself permission to take a decent break, not just a physical one from your work, but also avoid thinking, or emotionally connecting to your work during that break. It’s amazing how more productive you will become when you return. In fact, this is a great time to practice mindfulness – live in the moment, savour and enjoy it – it’s time to recharge your batteries for a new year ahead.

With a few simple strategies and shifting your thinking you can get rid of burnout. Don’t leave it unchecked, or it will potentially destroy your health and your life. APJ APJ 59

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SKINCAREINGREDIENTS

THE DOS IN SKINCARE

by Dr Zac Turner

IN my previous article in APJ Journal entitled How safe are your ingredients – Trans-epidermal Delivery in Cosmetics, I covered the issue of toxicity in cosmetic ingredients, and while some ingredients may improve the appearance of the skin, their long-term use may appear to be harmful to the body.

In this article I would like to discuss some of the compounds that are overall healthy and beneficial to the skin.

Let’s refer back to the fact that skincare products are temporarily disassembling the phospholipid bilayer in order to transport a variety of compounds making the skin feel plush and moisturised. The best and safest way to achieve a healthy skin-glow is to do so at the most basic level. Basic level refers to using products that come in their most organic forms.

The body will work safely and efficiently with compounds formed in nature just as much, if not more, than some of those harsh chemicals that are often included in a skincare product. So why are hard chemicals continued to be used in skincare? It all comes down to cost. Manufacturers producing skincare products can ‘whip up’ a compound in their laboratories much faster, at massive quantities, and most importantly to them, at a much, cheaper cost, versus going out and finding those organically forming compounds found in nature.

With that said not all naturally-occurring compounds are good for the skin. It is important to check the science for validation of what you use. Today, scientific research is constantly being conducted all over the world as the skincare industry is recognised as a multi-billion dollar industry that seems only to grow each year. With a bit of in-depth research I have compiled a list of beneficial compounds that you can trust. These now all have solid science backing their efficacy and their safety.

Before we review these compounds for skincare use I would like to stress the fact that all these compounds I am about to APJ 62

share with you have one thing in common. They are all naturally-occurring in nature. They are all phytochemicals, but with huge benefits! These molecules are formed in nature, from which they are extracted, but can also be synthesised, in a laboratory, (I suggest, using the extracts). While they can be included in skincare products, the best way for you to uptake all these molecules is still by eating organic fruits and vegetables.

Here are some of the best researched compounds you should include in your “do” list found in organic skincare: 1. ALOE VERA I am sure most of us are aware of the beneficial characteristics of this organic molecule. From those harsh sun burns creating a soothing/cooling sensation, to even acting as an antibacterial and anti-inflammatory agent on those minor scrapes and scars. Aloe vera serves in a variety of circumstances involving skincare, minimising healing times and also minimising those lingering scars that can result from injury.

Research now confirms that aloe vera has a diffusion rate 10 times that of water across the phospholipid bilayer. This gives the skin an effective protective barrier from the external environment. Furthermore, as it moves into the skin trans-epidermally, it brings with it an almost endless list of beneficial natural vitamins, such as A, D, E, C, and even B12.

Personally, I drink pure organic aloe vera juice diluted with water on a regular basis. While having no sugar may not taste all that pleasant, you should notice a difference in the overall appearance of the skin. Giving you that sought-after ‘glow’.

2. ORGANIC LEMON JUICE It may sound far-fetched, but there is now ample research

that confirms that organic lemon juice has some amazing properties including: purifying, detoxifying, astringent, anti-infection, anti-fungal, and increase the luster of dulling skin giving you a nice shimmer effect. Rich in vitamin C in the form of ascorbic acid, this antioxidant plays a role in collagen synthesis (decreasing as we age) which makes it a vital molecule in skin health having some anti-ageing properties and in some cases, can even prevent and treat UV photodamage.

3. VITAMIN C To extend briefly on this over the counter ingredient used to treat photo-ageing in its biological form, evidence has proven vitamin C to be highly effective as an antioxidant, but more intriguingly, it plays a vital role as a co-factor for collagen synthesis. It achieves this by activating its transcription and stabilising the pro-collagen mRNA. Studies have proven vitamin C to have a vast variety of roles in overall skincare maintenance and may prove to be a mediator of cutaneous ageing. However one problem does come with this super vitamin. When topically applied, studies have confirmed to have very little benefit. In order for vitamin C to benefit your skin, it must be transported transdermally without the use of harmful constituents that may, or may not, react with other physiological components in the body.

4. VITAMIN E ALSO KNOWN AS α-tocopherol This lipid-soluble antioxidant plays a vital role in protecting cellular membranes from lipid peroxidation by free radicals.

If you are confused just know that vitamin E helps protect your skin from the external environment around you. eg smog, UV damage and other environmental pollutants. One study showed that vitamin E applied to the skin decreased the severity of UV-induced skin wrinkling by a dramatic 75%.

The good news is that vitamin E is not an expensive product to access. I suggest washing your face with a pea sized amount while you shower in the morning to give your skin

ultimate protection throughout your busy day. However do take note that washing it off after about five minutes is vital as the oil can cause break-outs. It’s all about finding the balance. It is important to put it on the skin before going out in the sun or smog areas, as studies show applying it after exposure, when you get home, doesn’t help as much.

5. HYALURONIC ACID As we are aware, hyaluronic acid is not a harmful acid, but a naturally-occurring substance in the skin. This acid promotes the production of collagen helping keep the skin firm and elastic. If you are seeking an anti-ageing remedy, this should be one of your first go-to organic molecules. Optimising the levels your hyaluronic acid will keep the enzyme hyaluronidase inhibited, slowing down that ageing process.

6. BIOFLAVONOIDS Bioflavonoids are a much cheaper alternative to limiting damage caused by the enzyme hyaluronidase. These reduce free radicals in the body and can be found in blueberries, grapes, cranberries and other fruit. While you should add these fruit to your diet, staying away from processed foods and exercising regularly will also increase the levels of hyaluronic acid in the body.

7. TEA EXTRACTS In continuation of phyto-molecules, I would like to point out the incredible benefits of tea extracts as they have been used all over the world for years and through science have been proven highly effective, especially when consumed, over being applied topically.

Green, black, and oolong tea all contain polyphenolic compounds. These compounds have significant antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity. The best data comes from green tea extracts. Their polyphenols have been proven to inhibit UV-induced erythema. Green-tea treated skin cells showed

APJ 63

reduced numbers in sunburn cells and a depletion of the highly radiation sensitive epidermal Langerhan cells.

Black tea analysis showed inhibited UVB-induced tyrosine phosphorylation of epidermal growth factor receipts and even decreased the accumulation of the p53 oncogene.

Lastly, oolong tea has been proven to help treat recalcitrant atopic dermatitis because of its anti-inflammatory properties.

Studies also found that it would improve wrinkles and hyper-pigmentation of ageing skin, so keep these extracts handy mainly for their anti-inflammatory properties.

8. PANTHENOL Panthenol is a water-soluble nutrient found in plants and commonly referred to as the vitamin B5, or pantothenic acid. This compound is used in many different products as a humectant, meaning that it holds moisture well. It has the ability to draw water molecules out of the air and hold on to them for long periods of time. A perfect and cheap way to better the skin is to use honey. Panthenol is a compound found in honey, but try to find a 100% organic local honey, as the bees making the honey using local flowers will be beneficial to the skin and in some cases prevent those seasonal allergies, when used over long periods of time.

9. VITAMIN A AS RETINOL Retinol is a vitamin A derivative that unclogs pores, boosts collagen to reduce those unwanted fine lines and wrinkles, and expedites cellular turnover rate. When correctly used over the course of a month, or so, it will even-out discoloration and smooth the skin. It is available in both low and high concentrations. Once applied to the skin, the retinol is converted in a strong acid called retinoic acid. Retinol is photo-sensitising so make sure to only use it at night.

Vitamin-A when use as a whole, is excellent as a maintenance component of the epidermal in differentiation and

growth. Deficiencies in Vitamin-A can result in xerosis, hyperkeratosis and squamous metaplasia of mucous membranes. Damage from UV radiation increases collagen-degrading matrix metalloproteinases thus overall decreasing collagen synthesis. The derivatives of vitamin A counteract this enzyme. Studies have proven that higher concentrations of retinol, (not the over the counter grade), when used in conjunction with Vitamin E creams, out-performs vitamin E overall, showing less wrinkles and more collagen synthesis at the sites needed.

IN CONCLUSION When first observing someone we usually look at the face and then turn our attention to the skin. The health of the skin surrounding the entire body is typically a tell-tail sign of an individual’s internal health. Taking proper care, finding the right balance between products and letting your skin conduct its natural physiological processes takes time. It requires that you understand both the function of the skin and how it will best respond to appropriate nutrients, taken internally and applied topically. APJ Referenes: Daniel Komatsu, Daniel V Mistura, Adriana Motta, Juliana A Domingues, Moema A Hausen, Eliana DuekUniversidade Estadual de Campinas Instituto de Biologia, São Paulo, Brazil. Development of a membrane of poly (L-co-D,L lactic acid-co-trimethylene carbonate) with aloe vera: An alternative biomaterial designed to improve skin healing. Journal of Biomaterials Applications, 32(3), 311-320. doi:https://doi.org/10.1177/0885328217719854 Wahedi, H., Jeong, M., & Chae, J. (n.d.). Phytomedicine: Aloesin from Aloe vera accelerates skin wound healing by modulating MAPK/Rho and Smad signaling pathways in vitro and in vivo (1st ed., Vol. 28). doi:https://doi.org/10.1016/j.phymed.2017.02.005 Mark Rippon, Angie Perrin, Richard Darwood, and Karen Ousey. The potential benefits of using aloe vera in stoma patient skin care. British Journal of Nursing 2017 26:5, S12-S19

For a list of references, please contact the editor.

APJ 64

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INGREDIENTSCIENCE

THE AMAZING BENEFITS OF BUCKWHEAT FOR SKIN AND HEALTH

By Eva Boyd, Dip. Bth, Dip. Nutrition WITH on-going research indicating the need to avoid, or minimise gluten in our diet one amazing substitute that offers a wonderful alternative is buckwheat. I recently discovered new research on the health benefits of buckwheat and I was quite impressed, so here is an article that will help you appreciate its benefits to both the skin and health.

‘Buckwheat, even though is grain-like with a delicious taste is in fact a fruit seed that is closely related to rhubarb, sorrel and knotweed. These grain-like seeds have a unique triangular shape and have the same size as wheat kernels. In order to make them edible, their outer hull has to be removed with the help of special milling equipment. Its colour varies from tannish pink to brown (1).

Just like wheat, buckwheat also can be grounded into flour and can be a suitable substitute for wheat in case of those who are gluten intolerant as buckwheat is gluten free. The darker form of buckwheat is more nutritious, however both dark and lighter coloured buckwheat are highly nutritious and very taste — they taste like a cross between wheat and rice.

Buckwheat flowers attract bees which use them to produce a strongly flavoured dark honey. Buckwheat is available in roasted and unroasted forms. The roasted form is also known as ‘kasha’ which is widely used in traditional European dishes. In Australia, it is commonly used in porridges and pancakes. The unroasted, whole buck wheat kernels are known as buckwheat grains or hulled buckwheat.

BUCKWHEAT NUTRITIONAL VALUE Buckwheat is a powerhouse of nutrients. Being gluten free, it can be an excellent substitute for wheat, rye, barley and oats. It is thus considered suitable for those who are allergic to wheat and celiac patients. It has a high content of fibre and protein, and significant amounts of iron and magnesium. Besides, it contains all the eight essential amino acids.

Buckwheat is also packed with phyto-nutrients which are amazing disease-fighting organic components. The several health benefits of buckwheat can be attributed to its amazing nutritional profile.

Buckwheat is a powerhouse of nutrients. It contains a range of nutrients comprising of carbohydrates, vitamins, minerAPJ 66

also, soluble and insoluble fibre, sodium and amino acids. It contains minerals like manganese, magnesium and copper.

Moreover, it has two health-promoting flavonoids-rutin and quercitin. Buckwheat is also a great source of an essential fatty acid called Alpha-Linolenic acid which is important for overall health. Its nutritional profile is quite impressive. Let’s check these out.

VITAMINS: Buckwheat provides 8% of daily value (DV) of niacin, which aids in the release of energy from carbohydrates, protein and fat during metabolism. They provide 6% of daily requirement of vitamin B-6, folate and choline and small amounts of vitamin K, riboflavin and thiamine.

MINERALS: One cup serving of buckwheat grains provides 21% DV of magnesium and 12% DV of phosphorus and copper. Thus, they are an important source of these minerals.

One cup of cooked and roasted buckwheat provides around 155 calories. Carbohydrate is the primary energy source.

Around 33 grams of carbohydrates are available in the form of starch. It contains just 1.5 grams of natural sugars.

DIETARY FIBRE: Buckwheat grains contain 4.5 grams or 18% of the daily value (DV) of total fibre. Fibre aids in weight loss by lowering cholesterol and glucose levels and promoting proper digestion.

PROTEIN: One serving of buckwheat grains contains about 6 grams of protein. Protein is vital for building and repairing body tissue.

FAT: Calories in Buckwheat grains are low. They contain just 1 gram of total fat and less than ½ gram of saturated fat.

SKIN AND HAIR BENEFITS OF BUCKWHEAT Skin problems are often the result of external aggravations and internal deficiencies.

Proper supply of nutrients to the body is essential for healthy and radiant skin. The quality of skin largely depends upon genetic factors, but it is also influenced by environmental factors to a significant extent, such as exposure to pollution, level of stress, lifestyle etc. Being a powerhouse of nutrients, buckwheat has an important role to play in skin health.

REDUCE SIGNS OF PREMATURE AGEING Buckwheat is rich in B complex vitamins like thiamin, riboflavin, niacin, pantothenic acid, pyridoxine and folate. These essential vitamins give you healthy skin and hair. In addition, the rutin content in buckwheat has antioxidant properties to reduce the signs of premature ageing. This also contains high-quality protein that is required for good collagen integrity and hair growth. This protein has amino acids which are required for healthy hair and nails.

Improves Skin Elasticity Buckwheat is a rich source of polyunsaturated fatty acids that can enhance your skin’s elasticity. It can keep the skin younger-looking for long. A recent study also confirmed that magnesium contained in buckwheat has a relaxing effect on the blood vessels, thus improving blood circulation resulting in improving the glow of the skin.

Prevents Skin Damage Because of its rich vitamin B profile buckwheat can also lower skin damage caused due to sun exposure and other environmental factors. Specifically, the large amounts of rutin found in buckwheat help to protect the skin from harmful rays.

Hair benefits With regards to hair health, nutritional deficiencies can contribute to a range of conditions such as, hair loss, split ends, dandruff, dullness and alopecia. Just like the skin, proper supply of essential nutrients is extremely important for strengthening the hair follicles and maintaining healthy and damage-free hair. Buckwheat contains some of the essential nutrients that are beneficial for hair health. Buckwheat contains 75% of complex carbohydrates. Whole grain-carbohydrates are good for proper growth of hair. Studies confirm that buckwheat, which is rich in vitamin A, B-complex vitamins and zinc, makes it highly conducive for hair growth.

Another important nutrient for healthy hair is vitamin B6, or pyridoxine is vital for hair growth and health. Being soluble in water, this vitamin cannot be stored in the body. It has to be replenished from some food source or supplement.

Buckwheat is a great source of vitamin B6.

3. Reduces Blood Pressure Buckwheat, with its good source of magnesium, is instrumental in improving blood pressure by relaxing the blood vessels. This reduces blood pressure naturally without the use of harmful chemicals.

4. Cardiovascular Health Being rich in B vitamins, particularly niacin, folate and vitamin B6, buckwheat is highly beneficial for the cardiovascular health. These vitamins reduce the concentration of cholesterol in the blood. Niacin causes an increase in high density lipoproteins (HDL) which further enhance the blood vessel strength and cholesterol removal. The minerals like iron, magnesium, phosphorus, copper and manganese help in reducing blood pressure and improving blood oxygenation.

Buckwheat contains high quality proteins which remove the plaque forming triglycerides and low-density lipoproteins (LDL). Thus, buckwheat is highly beneficial for people with weak heart functions and other cardiovascular problems.

5. Protection against Breast cancer Research has proved that eating a diet rich in fibre from whole grains such as buckwheat reduces the risk of breast cancer. In fact, pre-menopausal women eating wholegrain fibre are at a lower risk of developing breast cancer. The antioxidant properties of buckwheat are often used as an antidote for x-ray irradiators. The antioxidants, lignans play an important role in oestrogen reception and hence are beneficial for women during or after their menopause. The plant lignans are converted into mammalian lignans in the intestines. One of these called enterolactone is believed to protect against breast cancer and other forms of cancer related to hormones.

6. Protection against Childhood Asthma Another research confirmed that consumption of whole grains such as buckwheat can reduce the risk of childhood asthma by around 50 per cent. Due to its high content of magnesium and vitamin E, buckwheat can help in reducing the incidence of childhood asthma (7).

HEALTH BENEFITS OF BUCKWHEAT

7. Prevents Gallstones Being high in insoluble fibre, buckwheat can help in preventing gallstones (8). Insoluble fiber speeds up the movement of food through the intestines, increases insulin sensitivity but lowers the secretion of bile acids and blood sugar.

1. Aids in Weight-Loss Whole grain buckwheat can be very helpful in weight-loss.

Buckwheat has fewer calories in comparison to wheat or barley. It is free of saturated fat and cholesterol and rich in dietary fibre and protein. This combination plays an important role in suppressing appetite, controlling blood sugar, facilitating proper digestion and building lean muscle mass.

8. Health Benefits of Buckwheat Protein Buckwheat contains proteins of a very high quality which offers several health benefits. This protein in combination with amino acids helps in lowering cholesterol levels besides being a key factor in preventing diabetes and obesity. In addition, buckwheat proteins reduce hypertension by reducing the activity of angiotensin converting enzyme.

2. Diabetic friendly Being low in calories and fat free, buckwheat is an ideal food for diabetic patients. Buckwheat contains a medicinal chemical which strengthens capillary walls and reduces haemorrhage, thus lowering the risk of fatal strokes and heart attacks in people with high blood pressure and diabetes (3). It improves micro-vascular integrity and circulation in diabetics, thus preventing the damage of nerves and muscle cells and loss of kidney function. D-chiro-inositol is a compound that is deficient in type II diabetic patients. This compound is required for proper conduction of insulin for controlling and treating type II diabetes. Buckwheat also contains D-chiro-inositol.

9. Healthy Bone Structure Manganese present in buckwheat ensures healthy bone structure by forming essential enzymes for building bones and acting as a co-enzyme for assisting metabolic progression in the human body. It is also actively involved in the formation of connective tissues, absorption of calcium and metabolism of fat and sugar. Magnesium is also beneficial for bone and dental health. It transmits nerve impulses and helps in the production of energy. It facilitates the absorption of calcium by the body and prevents the development of osteoporosis. Thus, buckwheat has a lot to contribute to a healthy bone structure.

APJ 67

10. Mental Health Buckwheat also contributes to mental health. It contains tryptophan, which influences moods in a positive manner, thus making one happy and preventing depression.

11. Improves gut heath Buckwheat is one of the best sources of fibre and can be used to prepare porridge. This dish is best for the gut. Buckwheat protein exhibits fibre-like effects to help combat constipation.

PRINCIPLE

NUTRIENT VALUE

% OF RDA

Energy

343 Kcal

17%

Carbohydrates

71.50 g

55%

Protein

13.25 g

24%

Total Fat

3.40 g

17%

Cholesterol

0 mg

0%

Dietry Fibre

10 g

26%

Folates (B9)

30 Âľg

7.5%

Niacin (B3)

7.020 mg

44%

Pantothenic Acid

1.233 mg

25%

Riboflavin (B2)

0.425 mg

33%

Thiamin (B1)

0.101 mg

8.5%

Vitamin A

0 IU

0%

Sodium

1 mg

<1%

Potassium

460 mg

10%

Calcium

18 mg

2%

Copper

1.100 mg

122%

Iron

2.20 mg

27.5%

Magnesium

231 mg

58%

Manganese

1.300 mg

56.5%

Phosphorus

347 mg

50%

Selenium

8.3 Âľg

15%

Zinc

2.40 mg

22%

Lysine

672 mg

32%

Methionine

172 mg

24%

Tryptophan

192 mg

69%

Vitamins

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NUTRITIONALHEALTH

THE OMEGA OIL FACTOR FOR SKIN AND HEALTH

by Tina Viney

WHEN working to restore skin integrity the role of good fats is an important consideration, not just when applied topically, but also consumed internally. Omega-3 and 6 oils are therefore an important consideration.

In this article we will briefly review both these categories of oils, how they differ and examine the role they play in in the health of the skin and body.

OMEGA-6 OILS Omega-6 fatty acids are considered essential fatty acids that are necessary for human health, however, the body cannot make them. You have to get them through food. Along with omega-3 fatty acids, omega-6 acids play a crucial role in brain function, and normal growth and development as well as for skin health. As a type of polyunsaturated fatty acid (PUFA), omega-6s help stimulate skin and hair growth, maintain bone health, regulate metabolism, and maintain the reproductive system.

There are several different omega-6 fatty acids that can be found mainly in vegetable oils, such as evening primrose, borage sunflower, safflower, soy, sesame, flaxseed, and black current seed oils. They contain linoleic acid (LA), not to be confused with alpha-linolenic acid (ALA), which is an omega-3 fatty acid. Linoleic acid is converted to gamma-linolenic acid (GLA) in the body. It can then break down further to arachidonic acid (AA).

GLA may actually reduce inflammation. Much of the GLA taken as a supplement is converted to a substance called DGLA that fights inflammation. Having enough of certain nutrients in the body (including magnesium, zinc, and vitamins C, B3, and B6) helps promote the conversion of GLA to DGLA. Uses Omega-6 fatty acids may be useful for the following health conditions: APJ 70

Diabetic neuropathy Some studies show that taking gamma linolenic acid (GLA) for six months or more may reduce symptoms of nerve pain in people with diabetic neuropathy. People who have good blood sugar control may find GLA more effective than those with poor blood sugar control.

Rheumatoid arthritis (RA) Studies are mixed as to whether evening primrose oil (EPO) helps reduce symptoms of RA. Preliminary evidence suggests EPO may reduce pain, swelling, and morning stiffness, but other studies have found no effect. When using GLA for symptoms of arthritis, it may take 1-to-3 months for benefits to appear. It is unlikely that EPO would help stop progression of the disease. So joint damage would still occur.

Allergies Omega-6 fatty acids from food or supplements, such as GLA from EPO or other sources, have a longstanding history of folk use for allergies. Women who are prone to allergies appear to have lower levels of GLA in breast milk and blood.

However, there is no good scientific evidence that taking GLA helps reduce allergy symptoms. Well-conducted research studies are needed.

Before you try GLA for allergies, work with your health practitioner to determine if it is safe for you. Then follow your allergy symptoms closely for any signs of improvement.

Attention deficit/hyperactivity disorder (ADHD) Clinical studies suggest that children with ADHD have lower levels of EFAs, both omega-6s and omega-3s. EFAs are important to normal brain and behavioural function. Some studies indicate that taking fish oil (containing omega-3 fatty acids) may help reduce ADHD symptoms, though the studies have not been well designed.

Breast cancer One study found that women with breast cancer who took

GLA had a better response to tamoxifen (a drug used to treat estrogen-sensitive breast cancer) than those who took only tamoxifen. Other studies suggest that GLA inhibits tumour activity among breast cancer cell lines. There is some research suggesting that a diet rich in omega-6 fatty acids may promote breast cancer development. It is therefore recommended that breast cancer patients should consult their doctor prior to adding any fatty acid supplements.

Eczema Evidence is mixed as to whether EPO can help reduce symptoms of eczema. Preliminary studies showed some benefit, but they were not well designed. Further studies however showed greater promise. Specifically, with eczema, Tori Hudson, N.D., in her article, “Women and Skin Conditions”, believes that there are several key nutritional deficiencies: essential fatty acids, vitamins C, E, A, D, selenium and zinc (p.147). “Skin problems are common in people who do not get enough essential fatty acids, or have an imbalance of EFAs in their diet. Vitamin C and other antioxidants such as vitamin E, A and selenium, as well as vitamin D (can stimulate collagen synthesis, improve the skin’s texture, and help prevent additional damage” (pp. 147-148).

High blood pressure (hypertension) Preliminary evidence suggests that GLA may help reduce high blood pressure, either alone or in combination with omega-3 fatty acids found in fish oil, namely eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA) and docosahexaenoic acid (DHA). In one study, men with borderline high blood pressure who took 6g of blackcurrant oil had a reduction in diastolic blood pressure compared to those who took placebo.

Another study examined people with intermittent claudication, which is pain in the legs while walking that is caused by blockages in the blood vessels. Those who took GLA combined with EPA had a reduction in systolic blood pressure compared to those who took placebo.

More research is needed to see whether GLA is truly effective for hypertension.

Menopausal symptoms EPO has gained popularity as a way to treat hot flashes associated with menopause. Recent studies confirmed that women who have low levels of omega 3 in their blood experience inflammation, which results to more severe menopausal symptoms. Omega 3 soothes the inflammation and aids to reduction of the episodes of the symptoms such as vaginal dryness, heart problems, joint pains and thinning of hair.

ly to have bone loss than those with normal levels of these fatty acids. In a study of women over 65 with osteoporosis, those who took EPA and GLA supplements had less bone loss over three years than those who took placebo. Many of these women also experienced an increase in bone density.

Premenstrual syndrome (PMS) Although most studies have found no effect, some women report relief of PMS symptoms when using GLA. The symptoms that seem to improve the most are breast tenderness and feelings of depression, as well as irritability and swelling and bloating from fluid retention.

Dietary ratio of omega-3s to omega-6s For general health, there should be a balance between omega-6 and omega-3 fatty acids. The ratio should be in the range of 2:1 to 4:1, omega-6 to omega-3, and some health educators advocate even lower ratios. The average diet provides plenty of omega-6 fatty acids, so supplements are usually not necessary. People with specific conditions, such as eczema, psoriasis, arthritis, diabetes, or breast tenderness (mastalgia) may benefit from omega-6 supplements. If there are health issues, it is advisable to also consult a healthcare practitioner.

Available Forms Omega-6 fatty acids are available in supplemental oils that contain linoleic acid (LA) and GLA, such as EPO (Oenothera biennis) and black currant (Ribes nigrum) oils. Spirulina (often called blue-green algae) also contains GLA. How to Take It The average diet provides sufficient omega-6 fatty acids, so supplementation is usually not necessary unless you are treating a specific condition, such as: • Eczema • Psoriasis • Arthritis • Diabetes • Breast tenderness (mastalgia) The dose and form of omega-6 fatty acids to be supplemented depends on many factors, including: • The condition being treated • Age • Weight • Other medications and supplements being used

Breast pain (mastalgia) Some evidence suggests that EPO may reduce breast pain and tenderness in people with cyclic mastalgia. It may also help reduce symptoms to a lesser extent in people with noncyclic mastalgia.

Precautions Because of the potential for side effects and interactions with medications, you should take dietary supplements only under the supervision of a knowledgeable healthcare provider.

Multiple sclerosis (MS) EPO has been suggested as an additional treatment (along with standard therapy) for MS, although there is no scientific evidence that it works. People with MS who want to add EPO to their treatment regimens should talk with a health care provider.

Individuals should not take omega-6 fatty acids if they suffer from seizure disorder because there have been reports of these supplements causing seizures. Several reports describe seizures in people taking EPO. Some of these seizures developed in people with a previous seizure disorder, or in people taking EPO in combination with anaesthetics. People who plan to undergo surgery requiring anaesthesia should stop taking EPO 2 weeks ahead of time.

Osteoporosis Some studies suggest that people who do not get enough essential fatty acids (particularly EPA and GLA) are more like-

Borage seed oil, and possibly other sources of GLA, should APJ 71

not be taken during pregnancy because they may harm the foetus and induce early labour.

Avoid doses of GLA greater than 3,000 mg per day. At that level, an increase in inflammation may occur.

Side effects of EPO can include occasional headache, abdominal pain, nausea, and loose stools. In animal studies, GLA is reported to decrease blood pressure. Early results in human studies do not show consistent changes in blood pressure.

Possible Interactions If an individual is currently being treated with any of the following medications, they should not use omega-6 supplements without talking to your healthcare provider first.

Blood-thinning medications: People taking blood thinners, including warfarin (Coumadin) or clopidogrel (Plavix), should not take omega-6 fatty acid supplements without a doctor’s supervision. Omega-6 and omega-3 fatty acids may increase the risk of bleeding.

Ceftazidime: GLA may increase the effectiveness of ceftazidime. Ceftazidime, an antibiotic, is used against a variety of bacterial infections.

Chemotherapy for cancer: GLA may increase the effects of anti-cancer treatments, such as doxorubicin, cisplatin, carboplatin, idarubicin, mitoxantrone, tamoxifen, vincristine, and vinblastine.

Cyclosporine: Cyclosporine is a medication used to suppress the immune system after organ transplantation. Taking omega-6 fatty acids with cyclosporine may increase the immunosuppressive effects of this medication. It may also protect against kidney damage, which is a potential side effect from cyclosporine.

Phenothiazines: People taking a class of medications called phenothiazines to treat schizophrenia should not take EPO. EPO may interact with these medications and increase the risk of seizures. The same may be true for other omega-6 supplements. These medications include: • Chlorpromazine (Thorazine) • Fluphenazine (Stelazine) • Perphenazine (Trilafon) • Promethazine (Compazine) • Thioridazine (Mellaril)

OMEGA 3 Let’s take a look now at omega 3, which is predominantly found in seafood. With more than 13,000 scientific papers on the topic published in the past 10 years alone, figuring out the best supplements for an individual can be not an easy task.

Data from the most recent National Nutrition and Physical Activity Survey reveals that 80% of Australian adults consume omega-3 fats in less than optimal quantities.

For optimal health and the prevention of chronic disease, the National Health and Medical Research Council (NHMRC) recommends that adult women consume 430mg of omega-3s per day, and that men consume 610mg.

APJ 72

Actual consumption of omega-3s falls short of these targets, especially among those who don’t take supplements. In fact, one in two people still fall short of the suggested dietary target a survey confirmed.

The survey data also showed that in any given week, the average woman consumed 4.5 times more meat and poultry than seafood, the and average man consumed six times as much.

This dietary pattern is concerning, because it shifts the balance of fatty acids in the body away from the beneficial, anti-inflammatory omega-3 fats and instead towards fats that have pro-inflammatory tendencies.

Taking fish oil supplements helps even up the balance and maintain heart and cardiovascular health, including healthy triglyceride levels in individuals. It may also help to reduce the pain, swelling and inflammation of mild arthritis.

While omega-6 is not recommended during pregnancy omega-3 fish oil is highly recommended. Experts suggest that pregnant women and those planning to conceive should strongly consider taking supplements containing the omega-3 fatty acid DHA. Studies indicate that fewer than 10% of Australian women of childbearing age consume DHA in optimal quantities (d200mg/day), despite the fact that it is vital for the normal healthy development of the brain, nervous system and retina of the unborn child and growing infant.

Benefits of fish oil Fish oil omega-3 have been known to benefit for heart health. They help maintain normal triglyceride levels (an essential component for heart health). It also helps to maintain peripheral circulation including the head and the skin.

Thanks to the potent anti-inflammatory actions of omega-3s EPF and DHA, fish oil may also help relieve arthritic symptoms such as pain, inflammation and swelling of joints, while also improving joint mobility.

Krill oil There have been speculations that krill oil is no better than

The two products are good for different conditions, and to say outright that krill oil is superior or inferior to calamari oil does not do either justice. What we do know is that both are very good at doing two very different things. Calamari oil is much higher in omega-3 DHA than krill oil. DHA (docosahexanoic acid) is a specific type of omega-3 with strong evidence supporting it’s critical importance for brain function brain function, for eye function and for heart health. So, if you are concerned with maintaining (or improving, if your DHA levels are already low) your brain function, learning capacity, memory, heart health or vision, a high strength calamari oil supplement may be a good choice.

If you are more concerned about inflammation and arthritic or joint pain then krill oil is a good choice due to its superior absorption and track record of showing arthritic relief.

SKIN HEALTH AND OMEGA-3s AND OMEGA-6s When it comes to healthy skin, research now shows that the foods you put in your body are as vital as the products you put on it.

taking standard fish oil, however krill has a different chemical structure to those found in fish oil. Recent clinical studies involving women with physical, mental and/or emotional manifestations of PMS, taking 2000mgs of krill oil per day was shown to ease a wide range of physical symptoms including menstrual cramping, sore breasts and joint pain. It also helped relieve emotional symptoms such as feelings of being stressed, overwhelmed and irritable. The benefits were noticeable after just 45 days of treatment, and improved even more markedly after krill oil was taken for an additional 45 days.

The chemical structure of the omega-3 fatty acids in krill oil render them easily vulnerable to oxidative stress and free radical damage, however unlike fish oil, krill oil comes complete with its very own antioxidant – astaxanthin. Along with its more famous cousins betacarotene and lutein, astaxanthin is a carotenoid. It gives krill oil it distinctive red hue, and you also consume it in other red coloured seafood such as prawns and salmon.

Overall krill oils is beneficial for maintaining normal health and eye function and in managing a range of menstrual symptoms, including period pain, breast tenderness, joint pain, irritability, stress and moodiness. Because of its different chemical structure, it is also more readily absorbed.

Calamari Oil Now enters the squid – Calamari oil. Initially discovered by a scientist looking for an eco-friendly omega-3 alternative to fish oil, calamari oil’s recent launch into the Australian market has again caused confusion as to which omega-3 supplements people should take. The confusion is understandable – people who finally started to trust that krill Oil was effective are now being told they should consider a new omega-3 supplement. But is the calamari oil marketing hype true?

And is it better than krill oil? Well, numbers do not lie… there is one clear reason to take calamari oil: it contains more omega-3 DHA than fish oil and krill oil combined. But does the fact that it has more of this ‘omega-3 DHA’ necessarily mean it is better? Let’s take a look.

“It’s definitely true that diet can play an important role in all skin conditions, not just helping combat wrinkles and lines, but also other skin problems as well, including acne, eczema, psoriasis and even dry flaking or very oily skin,” says biochemist Elaine Linker, PhD, co-founder of DDF skin care.

Among the must-have foods for health are the omega-3s and omega-6s fatty acids the “good fats” that have recently been credited as helping your skin look healthier. The foods highest in omega-3 fatty acids include seafood (especially tuna and salmon) as well as walnuts, canola oil, and flaxseed.

According to Ann Yelmokas McDermott, PhD, a nutritionist at the Jean Mayer USDA Human Nutrition Research Centre on Ageing at Tufts University in Boston, these fatty acids are responsible for the health of the cell membrane, which is not only what acts as a barrier to things that are harmful, but also provide the passageway for nutrients to cross in and out and waste products to get in and out of the cell.

McDermott further stated that since the membrane is what influences the cells ability to hold water, having a nice, healthy barrier yields softer, hydrated, subtle and more wrinkle-free skin.

Dermatologist and skincare expert Nicholas V. Perricone, MD, the need for omega-3 fatty acids goes beyond just reinforcing the cell membrane. In his best-selling book The Wrinkle Cure, he reports foods rich in omega-3 fatty acids help reduce the body’s production of inflammatory compounds — natural chemicals involved in the ageing process that affect how healthy the skin looks and feels.

IN CONCLUSION While we have identified many health benefits of both omega-3s and 6-s as far as the skin in concerned, there is no doubt that internal nutritional support plays a key role to the healthy appearance of the skin. A healthy diet supported with appropriate supplementation where necessary, will allow you to achieve enhance results with overall health benefits for your clients. APJ

For a list of references, please contact the editor.

APJ 73

HIGHEREDUCATION

THE POWER OF ADVANCING YOUR KNOWLEDGE AND QUALIFICATIONS

by Carmen Perkins AS we know, our industry is never static. New advances are braking past barriers and limitations, bringing new exciting possibilities and raising the standard of results for skin treatments to a new level.

New technologies are constantly breaking new ground in treatment possibilities allowing for techniques that target the dermis to improve collagen integrity and allow better treatment outcomes.

The merging of aesthetic science and medicine is allowing us to have a stronger scientific position on what we can offer our clients and what we can now promise. However, with these advances also comes the need to update our education so that it can better support a more scientific approach to what we are offering.

On-going breakthroughs in technology are also providing amazing solutions for body shaping and toning, bringing new opportunities for business growth.

Aestheticians are now competing with nurses and doctors who are communicating their services based on a comprehensive, scientifically-sound tertiary education knowledge base.

While aestheticians may have a sound background in beauty and extensive experience, a degree program can help elevate their knowledge and skill-sets to a whole new level enhancing the confidence and abilities to meet the growing challenge to this ever-evolving industry.

Statistical figures, both globally and here in Australia, also support that the growth in consumer demand for personal care services and premium cosmetic sector will continue to experience robust growth. Additionally, the forecast is that consumer expectations will go beyond skin and facial improvement to body shaping and wellness.

APJ 74

These advances now require practitioner knowledge-levels to be much higher. This is where a Bachelor of Health Science (Aesthetics) can best support the rising industry standards. This degree program will allow practitioners to reference from a more comprenesive scientific base, design treatment plans and determine treatment objecives with greater confidence and achieve best practice outcomes.

Meanwhile, cosmetic medicine is also providing new possibilities through their own tools enticing a constantly growing number of consumers who are progressively becoming more comfortable with their options of looking better, or more youthful. Non-medical aesthetic practitioners now have strong competition.

A NEW QUALIFICATION STANDARD Torrens University believes education should reflect the realities of an evolving industry, as well as provide the skills for critical-thinking and global perspective in the approach we take within the treatment environment. Integrating relevant

insight and the desired skill-sets through their active conversations with industry has allowed Torrens to develop a dynamic qualification for the evolving and changing needs of the modern workplace where advanced clinical results are increasingly required by the discerning consumer.

This industry need has contributed to the development of the Bachelor of Health Science (Aesthetics) which is already gaining great popularity. With strong academic units as well as a comprehensive practicum component this qualification offers the graduate the ability to face the future with greater skills, knowledge and confidence and pursue a successful career in aesthetics. This qualification is also available to qualified beauty therapists, or nurses who wish to increase and extend their current skills and knowledge through a tertiary level qualification in aesthetics and dermal therapies allowing them to expand their professional scope and career possibilities for a brighter future.

The Bachelor of Health Science (Aesthetics) has been carefully designed in consultation with industry professionals to ensure it meets with the growing needs of salons and clinics enabling them to access industry-ready graduates that are able to support their current and future business growth.

OUR QUALITY ASSURANCE While VET sector offers sound qualification, the units within a tertiary qualification, such as the Bachelor of Health Science (Aesthetics) offer a more comprehensive and stron-

ger academic foundation that also includes several clinical, health and wellness units equipping the graduate to offer salons and clinic the ability to extend their scope of service and provide more advanced clinical outcomes. In Australia, tertiary qualifications are overseen by a national regulatory and quality agency for higher education â&#x20AC;&#x201D; the Tertiary Education Quality and Standards Agency (TEQSA).

TEQSA was established by the Australian Government to monitor quality, and regulate university and non-university higher education providers against a set of standards developed by the independent Higher Education Standards Panel.

WHAT YOU CAN EXPECT FROM OUR GRADUATES Graduates of the Bachelor of Health Science (Aesthetics) will bring a new level of critical thinking and problem solving to their practice. Their depth-of-knowledge will allow them to assess client and patient needs through a new understanding of pathophysiology that will enable them to achieve more advanced clinical outcomes. APJ If you wish to gain further information on the Bachelor of Health Science (Aesthetics) please contact Torrens University Australia.

Phone: 1300 575 803 | Email: enquiries@torrens.edu.au or visit www.torrens.edu.au

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JANE IREDALE LAUNCHES BEAUTY WITH BRILLIANCE KITS The ‘Beauty with Brilliance’ campaign sees jane iredale collaborate with QLD based artist Cass Deller to create a series of limited edition makeup kits featuring water colour botanicals.

The campaign features four high-value kits focusing on beautifully defined eyes (Fresh Eyes Trio Kit), a classic red lip (Party Red Trio Kit), flawlessly bronzed cheeks (Endless Summer Kit) and a perfectly hydrated and highlighted face (Ready to Go Kit).

For more information contact Margifox Distributors 1300 850 008 or www.margifox. com.au

PRODUCT INNOVATIONS PROJECT THE RIGHT IMAGE FOR YOUR BUSINESS WITH A PROFESSIONALLY-DESIGNED LAB COAT FROM SPRING SPA New to their collection Spring Spa has just launched a stylish, yet practical Lab Coat.

It features ¾ sleeves with two pockets and button front. You can wear it with scrubs, or over your spa, salon or clinic uniform and it can be buttoned or kept open.

The Lab Coat comes in white, medium weight fabric that is cool and comfortable with a great cut and fit. It comes in a wide range of sizes from XS through to XXL. For these and other uniform and linen solutions.

Visit Spring Spa website and shop online now www.springspawear.com.au

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PLATINUM SSR/SHR IPL FROM CLAIRDERM The Platinum SSR/SHR IPL from Clairderm Medical Aesthetics uses pulsating light technology applied in a single gliding motion across the skin’s surface with a lower thermal output. This provides even coverage of the treatment area and ensures that the treatment is painless with no downtime for the client. It’s lightweight (29kg) and compact design make it very versatile for mobile or space constraints businesses.

Super Skin Rejuvenation (SSR) actively lifts and tightens the skin, treats pigmentation, age spots, sun damage, acne, fine lines and broken capillaries. Super Hair Removal (SHR) targets hair that has previously been difficult to treat providing a superior hair removal treatment. In-Motion technology ensures a faster treatment time with faster, long-term results. This innovation is part of Clairderm’s commitment to driving your clinic’s success with expert technology.

Contact Clairderm Medical Aesthetics on 1300 781 239 orvisit www.medicalbeautyequipment.com

THE PERFECT SOLUTION FOR PROBLEMATIC SKIN CONDITIONS Dermatonics Curascar® is an amazing new product innovation phytotherapy formulation based on scientific and clinical evidence. Packed with natural, super-pure, plant-derived extracts with anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and wound healing properties, Dermatonics Curascar® helps assist scar tissue matrix remodelling, reduces trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL), relieves itching and helps reduce redness. It is an excellent product for your clients with new and old scars, stretch marks, acne scars, and also hyperpigmentation and dark spots.

Contact Dermatonics to find out more Phone 0430 582 508 or email donna@sentryca.com.au

ENVIRON FOCUS CARE YOUTH+ AVANCE ELIXIR Introducing Environ’s new multifunctional Tri-Peptide Complex+ Avance Elixir. The new addition completes the recently-launched Focus Care Youth+ Range. Scientifically formulated with Meirtage, a unique blend of Chinese root extracts, and three powerful peptide complexes, this targeted anti-ageing serum has many multi-functional benefits.

It helps to minimise the visible signs of ageing and protects the skin against UV radiation and pollution.

For more information contact Margifox Distributors 1300 850 008 or www.margifox.com.au

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EU-SEB: NON-INVASIVE THERAPY FOR PROBLEM SKIN (PREBIOTIC ANTI-ACNE THERAPY) – MEDER BEAUTY SCIENCE Restoration of skin microflora, regulation of sebum production are key considerations in treating acne and problematic skin conditions. Meder Beauty Science Eu-Seb provide you with the perfect solution. Eu-Seb delivers powerful antiseptic and anti-inflammatory properties helping to restore normal microflora of healthy skin, as well as improve its natural barrier function. The treatment promotes active drainage and a decrease in the production of fatty tissue in the face, neck and décolleté areas, helping to prevent further breakouts. Skin is left noticeably smoother, healthier and brighter.

Exclusive six-step dermatological protocol, developed in Switzerland after years of clinical research and extensive testing. If you are looking for a unique effective approach to acne and rosacea. Contact Spectrum Science & Beauty Ph: 1300 766 198 or www.spectrumsciencebeauty.com. au

SOPHISTICATED SCRUB-SET FROM SPRING SPA Spring Spa have launched new stylish and sophisticated scrub top and pant-sets that are so comfortable you could do yoga in them. The twoway stretch corporate grade fabric allows for a fantastic and comfortable fit with a stylish practical cut.

The tunics are V-neck with two front pockets and a small small elastic band through the middle of the back for shape and extra stretch when working.

The pants have an elastic top with two pockets, and are stretchy and so comfortable. They are sold as a set and you can pick the individual size that will work best for you. Colours available are Black or, Light Dove Grey (as per the image). Available in sizes XS - XXL, shop online now www.springspawear.com.au

DERMATONICS CLEARSKIN® OFFERS NEW HOPE FOR ACNE PRONE SKIN Dermatonics Clearskin® is a revolutionary natural, plant-based product that uses exclusive Nutridermaceutical Technology™ to deliver pure and active ingredients to help clear and prevent breakouts. Dermatonics Clearskin® will help your clients maintain a clear complexion without drying their skin, and without harsh chemicals or drugs. This formula is based on scientific and biomedical evidence to support visible clear skin.

To find out more about Dermatonics® products for your clients, contact the Dermatonics® team on 0430 582 508 or donna@sentryca.com. au.

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STRATAMED Stratamed is an advanced film-forming, flexible, wound dressing. Stratamed is indicated for immediate application post-procedures such as, full field laser procedures, deep micro-needling and tattoo removal.

Stratamed promotes faster wound healing, reduces the inflammatory response of a wound, and helps prevent abnormal scarring from occurring. Stratamed leads to a more comfortable post-procedure care and is easy for patients to apply, resulting in increased patient compliance.

Phone Stratpharma 1800 567 007 or visit www.stratamed.com

STRATADERM Strataderm is a professional scar therapy gel used for the prevention and treatment of abnormal scars, both old and new. Strataderm, softens and flattens raised scars, relieves the itching and discomfort associated with scars, reduces redness and discolouration of scars and prevents abnormal and excessive scar formation.

Strataderm is easy to apply and should be used once daily. Once dry, Strataderm can be covered with makeup or sunscreen.

Phone Stratpharma 1800 567 007 or visit www.strataderm.com

ALMA PIXELPEN: MICRONEEDLING Alma PixelPen is a fractional vibrating micro-needling device that perforates the skin and is ideal for skin tightening and rejuvenation, acne scars, fine lines and wrinkles and reducing pore size. Low price ensures all clinics in Australia can over this in-demand treatment. Needling, in combination with Almaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s acoustic pressure technology, or serum infusion can further enhance results and allows for maximum trans-epidermal delivery of cosmeceuticals and active ingredients to the deeper layers of the skin.

Priced to ensure all clinics have access to the latest in micro-needling contact Spectrum Science & beauty 1300 766 198 or www.spectrumsciencebeauty.com.au

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COSMETICTATTOOING

WHAT CONSTITUTES A QUALIFICATION?

DEVELOPING A STRONGER FUTURE FOR THE AUSTRALIAN COSMETIC TATTOOING INDUSTRY Katherine McCann interviews Robert McGowan

THERE is no doubt that cosmetic tattooing and microblading are popular modalities that are very much in demand and so we are seeing training being delivered in these modalities, with diplomas and certificates issued that hold no validity as qualifications within Australia.

Furthermore, experts coming from other countries to deliver training in their techniques are usually unaware of Australian Health Regulation requirements, not to mention the regulatory restrictions in the use of anaesthetics, taxation issues etc. Of course, the responsibility to ensure that the appropriate regulatory requirements are met so that the training is delivered in a legal manner lies with the sponsoring company that is bringing these experts to Australia.

At APAN we are often asked by people who have received training as to whether their training certificates are recognised in Australia. To answer this question we need to consider the following: Within Australia are there any regulations that define what is a qualification and does one need a qualification to practice a profession? What is the industry position on this issue?

AUSTRALIAN QUALIFICATIONS FRAMEWORK Every professional in Australia needs to be made aware that within Australian what constitutes a qualification is regulated by the Australian Qualifications Framework (AQF). The AQF is the national policy that determines and regulates qualifications and training in Australia. It incorporates the qualifications from each education and training sector into a single comprehensive national qualifications framework.

The management of the AQF is delivered through the AusAPJ 80

tralian Government Department of Education and Training in consultation with the states and territories. The Department of Education and Training monitors and maintains the AQF, supports its users and promotes the AQF and its role in Australia’s education system. Expert consultative bodies are convened as required to advise Ministers on any AQF policy matters which arise.

What that means is that the AQF policy will determine if the piece of paper you received is recognised as a qualification, or not. Within Australia for a training program to be classified as a “qualification” it must be delivered by a government-registered training provider that is either a registered training organisation, or a university. It is not enough if the person delivering the trainer is an accredited trainer, the training itself has to also meet with AQF requirements. In essence, for a piece of paper to make the claim that it is a “certificate”, or a “diploma” that training must have met with the AQF requirements for it to be considered a recognised qualification within Australia.

THE APAN POSITION ON QUALIFICATIONS As an industry body that supports best practice and high standards APAN’s position is that a person who wishes to perform a procedure where a qualification exists, they must first pursue to attain this qualification as a fundamental requirement. After they attain the qualification they can then pursue unaccredited training to continue to improve their skills and techniques as part of their professional development. However, an unqualified person cannot complete a professional development course and consider that a qualification. This is putting the cart before the horse.

In an interview with Robert McGowan, CEO of THink Aesthetics, a registered training organisation delivering nationally accredited qualifications, we explored this topic in greater depth.

APJ 1Q: Robert, what are your thoughts on the current situation with cosmetic tattoo education in Australia?

Cosmetic tattooing is unregulated apart from the requirements for infection control. It is also a very immature market in Australia, and although cosmetic tattooing has been around for a long time, it has only recently gained wider popularity, primarily through eyebrow microblading. If the industry was better established then students, technicians and clients would know what to look for in training and treatments. Without rules, or formally established and required â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;best practicesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;, trainers can deliver their training and call it what they like without consequence, unless they are an RTO. For students it is a case of 'buyer beware' and doing their research. The industry needs a leading organisation, or association like APAN to promote self-regulation and help establish a governance framework, including a training school accreditation scheme.

however at THink all courses are run to the RTO standards and include a minimum requirement of passing the core theory component of the government-accredited course.

The core theory is delivered via on-line training including 300 pages of content. It deliberately does not teach cosmetic tattooing techniques to ensure students do not complete the on-line training and think they are a cosmetic tattooist.

The on-line training teaches the fundamentals of skin structure, pigments, contraindications, guidelines and regulations, aftercare and aspects of establishing a cosmetic tattoo business.

THink may put forward its advanced courses for government accreditation in the future, however this is a lengthy process and requires wider industry engagement, an activity that is probably best coordinated through an organisation like APAN. APJ Q3: What are some of the major challenges you see (or have encountered), with respect to government-accreditation and national standards?

APJ Q2 : As an accredited RTO, what are some of the things you are putting in place to future proof your qualifications and create a sustainable point of difference?

Existing courses have highly variable content and standards, even Design & Provide Cosmetic Tattooing (D&P), which is essentially a beginner's course, has variable standards of delivery and outdated content that requires customised material to be generated by the training school.

THink delivers two qualifications as an RTO; the government-accredited Design and Provide Cosmetic Tattooing (SHBBSKS003) and Comply with Infection Prevention and Control Policies (HLTINF001). None of the advanced cosmetic tattoo courses have a government-accredited equivalent,

Probably the most significant variability of the accredited D&P course is however in the method of delivery. Between the different training schools, the class sizes can vary from one-on-one to eight or more students with one trainer.

Clearly the quality of practical training and individual APJ 81

attention should be much better in a small or single-student class. Getting industry acceptance and accreditation for advanced courses, which are currently even more variable in quality and class size, will require coordination through a strong industry body such as APAN. APJ Q4: We often hear of 2-to-3-day courses and short Microblading courses, do you think this is damaging to the industry and why?

The 2 to 3-day course may be adequate for the teaching a technique, including basic microblading, but this is highly dependent on the prior knowledge of the student, class sizes, quality of the practical training, the method of training delivery, the ability of the student, and the preparedness of the training school to fail or extend the training of those not ready to deliver treatments to clients. Some classes involve multiple students with only one trainer, so the contact time during practical training is very limited, and this is directly reflected in the quality of the training. There are several trainers who charge the same fees as one-on-one trainers and yet have 4 - 8 or even more students in a class. This results in poor training, poorly skilled technicians, poor treatment quality, and damage to the reputation of the industry. The temptation to obtain high profits from large classes is clearly too great for some trainers/schools, and this could be regulated within the existing D&P course framework.

APJ Q5: With respect to international trainers conducting courses in Australia, do you think they should only be open to already qualified practitioners?

Yes. These are typically advanced courses that should be considered unsuitable for students without basic training. If an individual simply attends a course with an international trainer, there is a risk they will claim to have been trained by 'Miss Best Brows in Britainâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;. Bear in mind some technicians believe they are competent after watching YouTube videos, which is particularly frightening.

International trainers are also not aware of the infection control regulations in Australia, plus council guidelines and licencing requirements. Some trainers come from countries where such requirements do not exist, so unless there is an experienced local facilitator or reputable training school arranging the course(s), Australian regulations and requirements may be overlooked completely. This was clear at a recent national beauty industry expo.

APJQ6: What are your thoughts as an RTO on how to RPL skills across with internationally-trained practitioners and how could we look at a standardised measurable process?

An RTO should be able to put a practitioner trained overseas through a re-certification RPL process. At THink this typically involves one day of assessment through demonstration treatments on three models/clients for certification in a technique. This is usually augmented with endorsed before and after photographs from previous treatments.

Putting in place standard measures of competence is no more difficult than for local students/practitioners. Neither is easy, and there will always be a degree of subjectivity in the assessment that is based on the knowledge and experience of the assessor. For a training school that is an RTO, the processes for certification based on RPL (Australian practitioners) or re-certification (international practitioners) must APJ 82

be clear, consistent and thoroughly documented. For nonRTO training schools, it can be entirely discretionary.

APJ Q7: With regards to relevant pathways and consumer education what are your thoughts for the future of cosmetic tattoo training and do you see it moving in a positive direction?

An accreditation system is required for the training schools.

While becoming an RTO should mean there are good training processes and systems in place, it does not guarantee good cosmetic tattoo training takes place. The assessing authority, ASQA has no one in-house that is competent in cosmetic tattooing, and THInk has recommended to ASQA that they contract expert support for audits and compliance monitoring in the cosmetic tattoo industry (and others).

In terms of consumer education, once an accreditation system is in place then it would be up to the accredited training schools to promote this differentiation to the client market.

Some collective effort through an industry body may also be feasible.

APJ Q8: What are the top three questions or pieces of advice would you give a prospective student/person looking to enter the world of cosmetic tattooing?

Your training is the foundation to your success. Ideally you will be a qualified beauty therapist before undertaking cosmetic tattoo training. If not, it will be very helpful to do some relevant beauty therapy study units, particularly in relation to skin, skin treatments and the operation of a beauty-related business. THink provides basic training in these areas; some other schools do not provide any training. Understanding the beauty industry is important in setting realistic goals and expectations for your career in cosmetic tattooing.

It is also a prerequisite for the unit of competency Design and Provide Cosmetic Tattooing (SHBBSKS003).

Select your training school very carefully. If a school is a Registered Training Organisation (RTO) it has standards it must maintain for the Design and Provide Cosmetic Tattooing course and in dealing with students generally. If an RTO does not perform well you can report them to the Australian Skills Quality Authority (ASQA), and this can have serious consequences for the school. Outside of the RTO framework there is currently no quality control. Research the training school reputation and training staff and ask to also speak to former students about their experiences. Did they get good training and were they confident to perform procedures on clients after their training? Does the school offer more advanced classes and follow-up mentoring?

Do your research on the costs of properly establishing a cosmetic tattoo business and be prepared for your business to build slowly. Get good equipment and supplies that both demonstrate you own a quality operation, but also give you the best chance of success and developing a strong reputation. The days of poorly trained operators buying a few blades and cheap pigments and setting-up an illegal home business are numbered, and such operators damage the reputation of the whole industry.

One other tip - learning is a journey you never complete.

Cosmetic tattooing is an exciting industry where there will always be more to understand, more techniques to learn, and better ways to do them. Enjoy your cosmetic tattoo journey by staying relevant and up-to-date. APJ

LEARN FROM THE EXPERT Cosmetic Tattooists, Do you want to advance your knowledge and education to a higher level and transition into Medical Cosmetic Tattooing?

JOIN ME for an intensive 2-day postgraduate training class in 3D nipple areola tattooing

PRICE $2900 Prerequisites: Only offered to qualified cosmetic tattoo practitioners with two years industry experience

Christine Comans is a qualified and highly respected cosmetic tattooist based in Perth who specialises in Medical Cosmetic Tattooing.

PH: 08 9380 6448

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AROMATHERAPY

THE AMAZING PROPERTIES OF FRANKINCENSE AND MYRRH ESSENTIAL OILS

By Tina Viney NO matter your faith or form of seasonal celebration, you’ve most likely noticed frankincense and myrrh resins, incense and essential oils start to pop up this time of year. Many first heard of these resins through the story of the Three Wise Men (Magi) and their gifts of gold, frankincense, and myrrh at Jesus’s birth — thus the connection to Christmas time.

While it may be easy to understand gold being a precious gift, in truth, frankincense and myrrh’s value far outweighs that of gold. Their benefits possess amazing health and healing benefits, both physically and emotionally.

Frankincense and myrrh are from the same plant family (Burseraceae) and grow as small shrub-like trees in dry climates; such as India, Oman, Ethiopia, Somalia, Yemen and Saudi Arabia. The resin of both plants has been used medicinally and for spiritual practices for over 5,000 years, and with good reason.

MYRRH (Commiphora myrrha) is extracted from the Commiphora Mukul tree and has a natural medicinal aroma. It is now commonly found in many skin creams, toothpaste and other cosmetic products, but this is only the beginning of its beneficial uses.

HEALTH BENEFIT OF MYRRH Myrrh has an incredible spectrum of health benefits that cover the full spectrum of healing, both physiological and psychological. These include antiseptic, antifungal and anti-inflammatory, antidepressant, antimicrobial and anti-viral, astringent, expectorant, stimulant, carminative, stomachic, anti-catarrhal, diaphoretic, vulnerary, anti-spasmodic, immune booster, improves circulation and is a excellent body tonic.

also has an expectorant action that make it useful for expelling excess mucus and soothing mucus membranes, which help alleviate respiratory conditions. Meanwhile, its calming effects on the mind and body are mostly attributed to the chemical compounds that stimulate the pituitary gland, thus also helping mental and emotional conditions such as depression and stress induced tension.

IS MYRRH OIL SAFE? If used in moderation and correct dosage (especially when applying it topically), myrrh oil is generally safe for adults.

However, as with other essential oils, I advise you to use this oil with caution.

Contra-indications: Myrrh oil is not recommended for pregnant women and nursing mothers, as it can induce menstruation and lead to premature labour. Children age six and below should also refrain from using this oil. Diabetics and other people suffering from health conditions should also consult their physician before using myrrh oil.

To make sure that myrrh oil will not have any allergic effects when applied topically, do a skin patch test on your inner arm first.

Here are some of the most common ways that Myrrh can provide benefits: • Heals wounds (essentially those of a ‘weeping’ nature), protects against infection and promotes healing • Skin diseases (eczema, ringworm, etc.)

• Soothes cracked and chapped skin, fades scars and other spots used in gum and mouth (ulcer) preparations

HOW DOES MYRRH OIL WORK?

• Stimulates uterine health and helps to normalise menstruation, relieves contractions or spasms (cramps, aches etc.)

Myrrh oil works by helping prevent infection and putrefaction, which helps clear toxins and promote tissue repair. It

• Relieves gas and diarrhea, improves stomach health, treats pyorrhoea

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• Strengthens and activates the immune system, prevents/ helps microbial infection (fever, food poisoning, cough, cold, mumps, measles, chicken pox, etc.)

• Strengthens the gums’ hold on teeth (contracts skin), firms the scalp’s grip on hair roots • Protects against coughs and colds (viral infections), provides relief from mucus and phlegm, eases congestion, breathing trouble, etc.

• Works as a fungicide • Stimulates blood circulation, digestion and nerves, increases sweat to purify body FRANKINCENSE, (Boswellia carterii) It’s no surprise that Frankincense has been sought after since ancient times. The complex aroma of this oil can elevate many aspects of your life. Diffuse Frankincense oil to refine your sense of purpose, or add it to your beauty routine for a luxurious experience.

As soon as you smell the warm, rich, sweet-woody scent of frankincense, it is easy to understand how special this plant truly is. Both as a resin or essential oil frankincense is opening and relaxing for both the body and mind.

Frankincense essential oil has an earthy, uplifting aroma that’s perfect for grounding and spiritual connectedness.

Create a safe and comforting environment when you diffuse or inhale this empowering oil — a perfect opportunity to collect your thoughts. When you seek purpose, or engage in prayer or meditation, use this oil to enhance your experience.

In addition to elevated spiritual experiences, the benefits of Frankincense essential oil include maintaining radiant skin as it possesses, among other things amazing regenerative properties.

The benefits of Frankincense include: Antiseptic, disinfectant, astringent, carminative, cicatrisant, cytophylactic, digestive, diuretic, emmenagogue, expectorant, sedative, tonic, vulnerary.

Here are some of the most common ways that Frankincense can provide benefits: • Acts as a sedative (wonderful for insomnia), awakens insight, soothes anxiety, anger and stress • Tones and lifts the skin through its amazing regenerative properties. It fades and heals scars and protects the skin against boils, wounds, acne and other skin maladies • It relieves pain associated with rheumatism, arthritis, etc., soothes inflammation • Eliminates germs (either by burning resin or applying oil topically) • Strengthens gums and hair roots, and contracts muscles, intestines and blood vessels (by firming and toning) • Improves digestion and alleviates gas, abnormal sweating, uneasiness, and indigestion • Promotes regeneration of healthy cells and keeps existing cells and tissues health • Promotes urination to purify the body and reduce bloating • Helps obstructed and delayed menstruation and delays menopause, helps PMS symptoms (pain in the abdominal region, nausea, headache, fatigue, etc.), regulates production of oestrogen • Relieves cough and phlegm, bronchitis, and congestion • Relieves body pain, headache, toothache and rise in body temperature (fever) associated with sickness • Tones up all the systems operating in the body: respiratory, digestive, nervous and excretory systems • Strengthens absorption of nutrients in the body • There are also several studies that confirm the benefits of Frankincense with cancer. However, that is a whole chapter on its own.

Contra-indications: No known adverse side effects are known, how because of its emmenagogue properties it

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For this method you can use a diffuser and add 3-5 drops in the water reservoir of the diffuser. Once the water heats and reaches steaming, it will break up the essential oil particles and release them into the air.

The inhalation method can also be introduced by applying 3-4 drops on an unscented tissue paper and fanning it over your client’s lower face for them to inhale.

DERMAL ABSORBPTION: The skin is relatively permeable to fat-soluble substances and relatively impermeable to water soluble substances. Essential oil molecules are so minute that when they are applied to the skin they are able to pass through the strateum corneum. From here the oil molecule passes through dermis, into the capillaries and into the bloodstream.

There are three ways that you can use these oils:

Absorption also occurs through the hair follicles and sweat ducts. There are many factors that affect absorption of an essential oil molecule. Both rate of circulation and the warmth of the skin increase blood flow to the surface, therefore increasing the skin’s ability to absorb the oil. Circulation and warmth can be increased by massage and other means.

The larger the area of skin that is covered, the more essential oils will be absorbed. The permeability of the skin is also a factor. Thinner skin eg: skin behind the ears and the inside of the wrists are very permeable. The palms of the hands and feet, armpits and scalp will more readily absorb oil molecules than the arms, legs, belly, back etc.

There are three paths that essential oils can enter into the body:

Essential oils are also easily absorbed through cuts, scraps and abrasions, burns, eczema etc.

• Inhalation through the olfactory system

The other factor to consider when applying essential oils to the skin is the viscosity of the carrier oil in which the oil is diluted. Sweet almond and grapeseed oil are less viscous and will penetrate the skin more easily than thicker olive or avocado oils.

should not be used during pregnancy.

Using these beautiful resins and oils is a wonderful way to heal the skin and body as well as soothing the mind.

WAYS TO USE FRANKINCENSE AND MYRRH ESSENTIAL OILS

• Absorption through the surface of the skin • Taken internally INHALATION: When essential oils are inhaled, the molecules rise to the top of the nose and meet the olfactory mucous membrane. The olfactory membrane has thousands of receptors that identify the smell and thus, the sensory stimulation is sent through the olfactory bulb, which acts as an amplifier, through the olfactory nerve into the limbic system of the brain. This is the oldest area of the brain. It deals with emotional and psychological responses.

You will only need a teaspoon of carrier oil to which you can add 2-3 drops of your essential oil of choice, or a combination of the two. Mix these together and use them either as a massage oil or if you prefer, apply to the skin followed by a mask. You can also add 1or 2 drops into your moisturiser or serum. In that way they will release both skin benefits as well as help to calm and sooth your client.

The limbic system is triggered by nerve impulses. The scent is compared to a known scent, compared and labelled, thus we can have memories associated with the scent information and react emotionally and physically through our autonomic nervous system.

Oral Ingestion: Studies show that taking essential oils internally is the least effective way to absorb their therapeutic properties. The oil ends up in the digestive tract where it has to pass through the stomach and small intestine before it reaches the bloodstream.

These responses are determined by the specific qualities of the essential oil being used, in this case Frankincense will induce a calming effect, while Myrrh will benefit through its anti-depressant properties. Combined together, these oils can help induce both tranquillity and soothe moods, enhancing a state of relaxation. The nerve impulse in the limbic system leads to other areas of the brain that are responsible for secreting hormones and regulating body functions.

From there the oil molecules which, by now have been chemically altered by the tissues and substances they have come into contact within the stomach and intestine; will reach the liver, pancreas, reproductive organs and eventually be excreted via the kidneys, bladder and large intestine.

The entire process from the initial inhalation of the oil to corresponding gland secretion takes place in a matter of seconds. Therefore, a simple inhalation can cause changes in the body from stimulating the immune system, to initiating also the digestive system into action and so on.

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It is not advised to ever take essential oils internally unless under the direct advice of a medical doctor who is also a Clinical Aromatherapist. APJ References: http://www.history.com http://www.universityherald.com http://www.thealternativedaily.com http://www.livestrong.com

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Students are taught using practical, hands-on strategies, emphasising a face-to-face relationship between trainer and student. A focus on excellence in safety and results allows our students to be supported in their commitment to educational superiority, quality service and career advancement.

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In an environment where questions are answered, talents are enhanced and excellence made achievable, a Learning by Doing approach is emphasised. Our students are equipped with a superior skill set to ensure that they can become experts in their field of passion.

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APJ 87 VISIT LASERINSTITUTE.EDU.AU OR CALL 1800 628 999 TO REGISTER

COSMETICINGREDIENTS

GOLD IN COSMETIC FORMULATIONS

by Jacine Greenwood

“In 2010, an in vitro study showed that gold nanoparticles in an anti-wrinkle facial mask maximise contact of the active ingredients (L-ascorbic acid, retinoic acid, and collagen) with the skin, enhancing their skin permeation [1].”

GOLD has been used throughout history, with Cleopatra being famed for sleeping in a gold mask. Alchemists referred to gold as the “Elixir of Life”. The Chinese used gold as a medicine in 2500 B.C. In India, colloidal red gold was used in the form of Ayurvedic medicine for rejuvenation and revitalisation during old age, and was called “Swarna Bhasma” [6].

Gold was for a long time used as a drug, called “nervin” for the revitalisation of people who are suffering from nervous disorders. However, the modern scientific evaluation of colloidal gold did not commence until 1857, when Michael Faraday learned by experiment that the colour of gold solutions was due to the small size of gold particles. In the beginning of the 19th century, gold was used as a drug for the treatment of syphilis [7].

Therapeutic use of gold was established for the first time when Robert Koch discovered the bacteriostatic effect of gold cyanide on Mycobacterium tuberculosis, following which the medicinal use of gold for the treatment of tuberculosis was introduced in the 1920s [7]. Gold and gold compounds are mainly applied as a drug for the treatment of rheumatic diseases including rheumatoid arthritis.

GOLD IN COSMETICS When used in cosmetics colloidal gold is simply listed as gold on the ingredient listing. You will find that many products containing gold are a golden colour, however colloidal gold is not golden in colour. Colloidal gold, also known as “nanogold”, is a suspension (or colloid) of sub-micrometre-sized particles of gold in a fluid, usually water. The liquid is usually either an intense red colour (for particles less than 100 nm), or a dirty yellowish colour (for larger particles). The nanoparticles themselves may come in a variety of shapes.

Spheres, rods, cubes, and caps are some of the more frequently observed ones. The shape of gold nanoparticles is a major determinant of their uptake into cells [5]. The intracellular uptake of gold nanoparticles was investigated, comparing different sizes and shapes. They concluded that kinetics and saturation concentrations are highly dependent upon the physical dimensions of the nanoparticles. This finding has implications in the chemical design of nanostructures for biomedical applications. The optical properties of nanoparticles of gold are also dependent on their shape [8].

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Colloidal gold has many studies showing benefits from both a medicinal perspective and for cosmetic purposes. Gold in cosmetics is used in two forms — as an ingredient of topical skincare (mask or cream) and as gold foil, or gold leaf for direct application to skin.

The main properties of nano-gold in skin and beauty care are: • It revitalises the fibre tissues under the skin • It accelerates blood circulation • Releases the natural active ingredient transported by the surface of the nanoparticles • Powerful antioxidant against free radicals • Antiseptic and anti-inflammatory properties • Reduces fine lines and wrinkles • Improves the firmness and elasticity of the skin • Revitalises skin metabolism • Synergists in absorption of collagens, nutrients and essences of herbal and botanical extracts • Delays ageing process and maintain skin youthful appearance In 2010, an in vitro study showed that gold nanoparticles in an anti-wrinkle facial mask maximise contact of the active ingredients (L-ascorbic acid, retinoic acid, and collagen) with the skin, enhancing their skin permeation [1]. In animal models, gold facial masks improve blood circulation and cutaneous elasticity, rejuvenate the skin, and reduce wrinkle formation [1].

Gold has unique electronic, optical, thermal, chemical and biological properties. It has potential catalytic applications in various fields such as biology, medicine, physics, chemistry, material science and other interdisciplinary fields [3].

Gold is also used in diagnostic procedures. It is able to be radiolabelled and specifically target specific sites such as cancer.

HOW ARE GOLD NANOPARTICLES MADE? Gold nano particles are synthesised from the reduction of gold salts by various reducing agents such as gallic acid, H2O2, hydrazine, etc. [4] GOLD AND GOLD NANOPARTICLES AND TOXICITY Although gold and gold compounds have been used as a potential drug for the treatment of Rheumatoid Arthritis, some adverse effects, such as skin irritation, dermatosis, contact allergy, and hypersensitivity reactions were associated with over exposure to gold and gold compounds.

According to McKenna et al. (1995), 278 consecutive patients with suspected contact dermatitis were patch tested.

Around 13 patients (4.6%) were affected with a positive allergic response. The patients were female, with an average age of 37 years. The most affected sites of eczema (generic term for inflammatory conditions of the skin) were head and neck (62%); 46% of people had eczema on the limbs and 15% had a perianal rash.

Gold nanoparticles are being investigated as carriers for drugs such as Paclitaxel. The administration of hydrophobic drugs, require encapsulation and it is found that nanosize particles are particularly efficient in evading the reticuloendothelial system.

In cancer research, colloidal gold can be used to target tumours and provide detection using SERS (Surface Enhanced Raman Spectroscopy). Gold nanorods are being investigated as photo-thermal agents for in-vivo applications. Since near infrared light transmits readily through human skin and tissue, these nanorods can be used as ablation components for cancer, and other targets.

HOW GOLD BENEFITS THE SKIN Gold nanoparticles are used in a wide range of cosmetic and beauty care applications. Colloid gold is presently included in a number of anti-ageing formulas produced by various manufacturers all over the world. Colloidal gold cosmetic treatments can be used in association with very efficient collagen-based anti-wrinkle creams that regenerate the age-damaged tissue.

There are two main explanations for the use of colloidal gold as a skin care product: one is the fact that in the colloidal form, gold has some amazing anti-oxidant properties and the other relates to the capacity of this mineral to get electrically connected to the metal ions present in the cellular structure. Colloidal gold has a certain positive electrical charge that results from the specificity of the manufacturing process. The gold nanoparticles in suspension have definitely a different impact at the cellular level than larger particles would, this allows colloidal gold to connect to the cellular structure at the most profound level.

In case there are any broken connections between the cells, colloidal gold helps to their restoration, not to mention the fact that it gives a push to the regular regeneration rhythm. This means that even when tissue deterioration has reached a considerable level, when the expression wrinkles are formed and it seems like there is no turning back, the body suddenly starts to create new cells to replace the old decayed ones.

So it appears the gold in cosmetics does have benefits for the skin. Here is to hoping some professional products incorporate nanogold into their formulas.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR Jacine Greenwood is an internationally recognised educator who is known within the industry for her up to date knowledge and her ability to deliver training in an easy to understand method.

Jacine holds 6 Diplomas and a Bachelor of Nursing and her knowledge is well respected by her peers. With over 22 years experience in the industry and a background of cosmetic formulation, Jacine has an immense knowledge of current trends in research and new developments in the industry.

Jacine has been continually educating herself in all aspects of skin function and cosmetic chemistry for the past 22 years. Jacineâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s knowledge is current and has a vast knowledge of the active ingredients that are being released onto the market. APJ

For a list of references, please contact the editor.

APJ 89

MASSAGETHERAPY

VISCERAL MASSAGE: The Natural Detoxification Treatment

By Greg Morline THE interest in remedial massage is once again gaining recognition as a credible modality that can not just stand alone for its therapeutic benefits, but also work effectively side-by-side with other practices offering extended benefits to aesthetic professionals who are introducing a more comprehensive wellness model of care to their clients.

The abdominal cavity of the body contains some of the most important organs, as well as an incredible amount of venous and arterial blood vesicles. Additionally, we also frequently store emotions and stress in the abdominal region and the accumulation of this stress can contribute to systemic toxicity with the potential to lead to serious disorders.

In this article Greg Morling explains the visceral massage technique, its origin and benefits to the health and wellbeing of individual.

Visceral massage has been part of the medicinal cultures in Europe and Asia since prerecorded times. Indeed, massage APJ 90

of the internal organs has long been a component of some therapeutic systems in Oriental medicine, so itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s no surprise that natural therapy practitioners in many parts of the world have incorporated massage techniques designed to work with the internal organs and their functions.

Your trunk and pelvis form a bony, muscular, fascia outer shell to protect and encase all of your internal organs. Your organs are not just loosely floating around in there though; they are mostly supported by tissue called fascia and pleura. The whole thing is a sealed system under pressure that squishes everything tightly together with each organ wrapped in its own pleura and bathed in a little bit of fluid so it can slide and move around, or over its neighbouring organs. Things that affect the pressures in the system or the ability of the organs to slide and move around in their close quarters will affect the ability of the body to move and function properly.

THE RESULTS OF VISCERAL TENSION Just like skeletal muscles, the smooth internal involuntary

muscles and the associated fascia may hold tension. This visceral tension may cause abdominal pain, hip/leg pain, sluggish bowel movement, migraines and even back pain.

Non-muscular organs can become hardened. Internal organs and the surrounding fascia can form adhesions, which can lead to a deficiency of internal mobility. As a result, the liver can be hardened and adhered to the diaphragm.

Releasing these adhesions with visceral massage allows the diaphragm to move more easily, so breathing deepens, while liver function may improve as well.

Visceral massage is also a genuine detoxification massage process that expands your range of therapeutic massage modalities.

My own work with visceral massage and the associated techniques began 27years ago when I used visceral massage to ease sluggish bowel movement for clients who were taking medication for pain relief caused by cancer. The massage techniques I used had such success that I extended the visceral massage work to Parkinson’s patients and all those clients who had respiratory problems.

Visceral massage techniques can also be very beneficial for those who have adhesions following bowel or stomach operations and also be successful as part of liver detoxification.

The Eastern therapeutic perspective, organs may be connected to specific emotions as seen in Tao philosophy. In all cases, the massage methods employed for visceral massage are very light and involve accuracy and palpatory sensitivity.

Massage offers several amazing techniques to enhance health and wellbeing. Visceral massage is an incredible modality that can benefit many health conditions, enhance the release of toxins and improve overall health and wellbeing.

However, it must be performed by a qualified professional who is trained and skilled in the specifics of this techniques.

ABOUT GREG MORLING

APJ

Past President of the Australian Association of Massage and present Board member of ATMS, Greg has spent nearly 30 years in the massage industry and has a passionate interest in massage therapy and in designing treatment protocols and massage techniques that will enhance your practice and increase the success you have in clinic. He has a keen appreciation of where we should be in Australian healthcare and has been a strong advocate for the massage practitioners over many years having been involved with the various major massage Associations and with government agencies. Greg considers massage work to be both an art and a science and is a qualified trainer teaching a variety of techniques through workshops he conducts throughout Australia.

If you would like to explore the wonderful form of visceral massage therapy contact Greg Morling. Greg travels extensively to various states giving two-day workshops on how to perform this wonderful visceral massage treatment. Visit the Mostly Massage website at www.mostlymassage.com for details, or contact him on Phone 02 97139256

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For further information contact: Advanced Aesthetic Skin Group | Phone 1300 581 500 | Email: info@aaskingroup.com.au

APJ 91

BEHAVIOURALSCIENCE

MINDFUL LEADERSHIP IN THE WORKPLACE

by Tina Viney

IN the spring issue of APJ we presented an article entitled Mindfulness – Improving quality of life. In this article we explained how mindfulness involved the ability to live in the moment. Activities such as breathing, yoga and prayer, enjoying nature, or listening to music where you connect completely with a single focus on this experience, savouring and enjoying all the beautiful elements that come with this individual focus.

The benefit of actively pursuing mindfulness is enhances relaxation, improved mental and emotion states and the ability to make better decisions.

Studies that confirm the benefits of mindfulness can also extend to our professional and business environment and practising mindful leadership will allow us to more efficiently develop others and improve their confidence, while support our productivity.

HOW LEADERS CAN IMPLEMENT MINDFULNESS As we know, mindfulness tools include meditation, breathing, yoga, walking, music, or observing nature -- anything that allows you to come back to the present moment. Our minds are often thinking about regrets, incidents from the past and worries about the future. Any tool that brings the mind back to the present moment is a mindfulness tool.

Now as never before business owners need to utilise this tool to help them cope with the mounting stresses as they having to cope with daily challenges and the on-going necessity for staying current, implementing changes in the workplace and dealing with staff and family issues.

Since intentionally practising mindfulness I have seen significant changes in myself in terms of the enhancement of emotional regulation, patience, discipline, focus and productivity, as well as a decrease in stress levels. With my busy schedule I need an effective tool that I can implement anytime throughout the day when pressures mount up. Mindfulness is that simple tool that costs nothing and requires just a few minutes a day to alter my state of being.

While mindfulness can be beneficial to the individual, it is now taught and practised in a growing number of organisations world-wide in an effort to improve personal and professional effectiveness and overall business productivity.

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“We can become influential in fostering positive change, not through instruction, but through awakening within others the will to view their life with greater honesty. “ In our profession we interact with people, we motivate staff to meet our clients’ needs and we attempt to ensure that they are left with the most memorable experience when visiting our clinics — an experience that goes beyond having a procedure to also having a positive encounter with another human being. After all isn’t that also our competitive advantage?

As a manager or leader, being prepared to connect with another human-being is central to the success of your interactions. Connecting, in essence, means being present, in that moment to that person on both mental and emotional levels.

To be connected doesn’t require a long-term relationship, or the capacity to invest lots of time and energy in understanding. One of the most powerful and practical insights from mindfulness is that being present to someone else, even if just for a short time, can have quite a profound impact on them. They may feel deeply heard, held, or empowered to try some new approach that can contribute to their growth as a person. As a leader, being open to connecting with another person involves making an active decision to set aside preconceptions, agendas and one’s own needs, and with all the distractions we have, this is a rare and precious act.

As business owners we want the best from our staff and this can be a challenge, however, we have a greater chance to gain this if we also want the best for our staff.

When working or training other human-beings we have an opportunity to also influence them by drawing out the best in them.

MARY – A CASE STUDY Several years ago when I was teaching I had a student who had incredible talent. Her name was Mary, While some of Mary’s assignments were brilliant, others appeared mechanical, as if she was totally detached from her topic. I had a hunch that there was something more that was creating this detachment and so I invited her her into my office to discuss her assignment. At this meeting I faced a choice. I could have routinely discussed about the “nuts and bolts” of

how she could have improved her assignment to get a better mark next time – a strong motivator of ambitious students, or I could dig a little deeper. At our meeting I was detecting that she was not allowing much to touch her – a demeanour I often came across among individuals who are driven.

The choice for me, and it is in the moment choice, that we all make in our day-to-day work, was whether to try to connect with some part of her that hadn’t to-date been available.

How could I get her deeper attention? And in so doing, how could I get something from her that was very different and potentially of far more value (to her and to the class) than what she was currently delivering? I said something like the following: “You will succeed in this subject and likely still pass with what you are delivering right now, but it will be a missed opportunity and potentially superficial. Or you can open yourself and risk putting more of yourself into the class and the work, I would really like to see you do the latter. Each one of us has gifts and inherent genius and our life and achievements become so much more exciting and fulfilling if we can discover and tap into them.

Dig deeper and give me more of yourself in what you do.”

Years later I met her again. She was the owner of her own successful business. She told me that that conversation open her up and allowed her to achieve a deeper, more honest relationship with her father with who she had a closed connection.

To an observer, this person might have come across as a person with a highly successful life and business. But on a personal level, there was an aspect of her that was closed off, because she suffered from never really knowing her father and more broadly, from keeping some relationships at arms length. She confirmed to me that that brief conversation we had years ago led her to gain the courage to initiate a more honest relationship with her father. The honesty open her heart up to better understanding who she was, acknowledging her potential and gaining the courage to trusting people that ultimately enriched her life.

orientation and personal goals. However, when dealing with people on a day-to-day bases, we can achieve so much more and become more effective if we also employ mindfulness and come along others to encourage and connect with the real human being, encouraging them to tap into their real potential. We can become influential in fostering positive change, not through instruction, but through awakening within others the will to view their life with greater honesty.

Part of becoming a mindful leader is to use yourself as an instrument in the moment: to listen deeply and respectfully, to use your senses to determine what to protect and nurture, and when to challenge the individual you are coaching.

Neuro-science expert Kets de Vries places high values on connection, arguing that the kind of relationship that is established is the deciding factor in creating meaningful change. He also emphasises the importance of encouraging leaders and manager to focus their attention on sensations and feelings and thoughts they had not previously acknowledged. He argues that without engaging the senses, the intuitive, spontaneous and emotional parts of the brain, any change that occurs will be an intellectual understanding of a dilemma that will almost certainly prove to be a temporary solution.

Mindful leadership can alter the tone of the work environment in subtle and overt ways, making it a potential agent of positive change in a business. It also opens up opportunities to engage with others in meaningful ways that can truly enrich their lives well after they even leave our employ.

Additionally, mindfulness contributes to an honest, caring and healthy working environment that can contribute to job satisfaction as well as enhanced productivity. APJ

The lesson for me, though, was that it didn’t take much from me beyond making the choice to connect. It didn’t take long.

It just took for me to be present, without preconceptions, and to care about her, to show in my advice that I believed in her and could see in her that there was something holding her back that if freed up, could release so much more of her talents and sense of self worth, not to mention improve the quality of her life.

THE POWER OF GENUINE CONNECTION Connecting with, mentoring and supporting others whom we are involved with and developing, often involves these elements of mindfulness — a commitment to be present and to be real and honest when we interact with them.

As leaders and managers we also need to have faith that the people with whom we are working often already know, at some levels, that things need to change.

Second, leaders and managers need to trust that individuals have the insight and capacity to solve the challenges they face already in them. Our job is to help them find, or re-find, those new ways that will help them move forward. Many manages view their role as one dimensional — their techniques and approach, focus squarely on business

JOIN IN ON THE FUN, SHARE AND LEARN Connect with APAN and let your voice be heard — gain insider knowledge, have fun, network, stay up-todate with the events, news and the latest industry insights via our professional online community.

www.apanetwork.com

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APJ 94

BEFORE

AFTER Herbal Aktiv Peel Treatment, Courtesy of Omniderm

SKINTREATMENT

FOCUS ON THE DECOLLETAGE

by Eva Boyd WHEN it comes to appearance enhancement for most people the face is definitely the priority. However, as one ages an exclusive emphasis in just improvement facial skin and features at the neglect of the neck and décolletage can result in being the tell-tail signs of one’s true age.

The décolletage is the area of the neck, shoulders, cleavage and upper part of the torso of a woman. It is often considered the most provocative feature of a woman, yet it is one of the most overlooked areas when it comes to preventa-

tive and restorative skin. It is also one of the most difficult to correct once damage has set in and due to the size of the area, treatment can be quite costly. Before we look at this area of the body in more detail it is important to stress that it is the practitioner’s responsibility to educate their client on the importance of not neglecting the care of the neck and décolletage through appropriate preventative measures to avoid costly treatments in the future.

APJ 95

Another problem with older skin is the risk of increased inflammation. While usually not visible to the naked eye, photo-damaged and aged skin can be more reactive and prone to inflammation due to higher levels of inflammatory mediators (cytokines, prostaglandins and other immune mediated factors such as histamine release) and abnormal cellular activity immune system. Inflammation increases the production of harmful superoxidative species (free radicals) and leads to increased cell damage, degradation of the skin matrix and rapid cell death, as well as an increase in the risk of neoplastic change. In fact, the décolletage condition, characterised by dilated vessels, red and brown spots, ruddiness, thin crepey skin, and the ‘bubble wrap’ appearance, is referred to as ‘poikiloderma’, derived from the neck condition ‘Poikiloderma of Civatte’.

TREATMENTS FOR THE DECOLLETAGE There are several light-based therapies that can provide treatment options for the décolletage however you can get great results with more gentle, progressive improvement through various peels, which we will explore here.

CONTRIBUTING FACTORS TO AGEING OF THE DECOLLETAGE After the eye area, the décolletage is the most prone to ageing on the body; more delicate than the complexion as it doesn’t produce as much oil in women due to fewer hair follicles, when compared with men, as well as being the first place to develop wrinkles. This is because of the stresses on the skin from movement, the weight of the breasts, and exposure to UV damage.

Cleavage wrinkles are deep, vertical creases that appear as the skin becomes older and thinner. There are various physical causes for them appearing more prominent. These include hours spent sleeping on one’s side, where gravity forces the top breast to droop further past the body’s midline than it should, and by wearing sports and push-up bras, which push the breasts together, worsening the appearance of lines and wrinkles, similar to those that occur on the face due to muscular tension exerted on the skin.

The skin covering the chest area tends to get a lot of sun exposure too, and is thinner than that on the arms and legs, making it extremely vulnerable to UV damage, resulting more readily in sun spots, and other signs of ageing.

Once the collagen in the skin breaks down from age and sun exposure, those wrinkles tend to linger and, thanks to gravity, the generously endowed, whether naturally or surgically, tend to be more affected. Throw in the volume loss that occurs naturally with ageing, as well as pollution, smoking and repeated rapid weight changes; and the chest quickly loses its youthful appearance.

As a result of hormonal changes relating to the menopause and oestrogen deficiency, women in their 40s and 50s are also more prone to ageing in this area. These changes result in an accelerated breakdown of collagen and elastin, leading to skin thinning, dryness and other negative changes referred to as ‘solar elastosis’ or ‘dermatosis’.

APJ 96

The key to any anti-ageing, or rejuvenating treatment is to stimulate the metabolism and regeneration of the skin. Devices and treatments designed to smooth, tighten and rejuvenate the décolletage are plentiful, however, special care and consideration must be paid to the thin, delicate skin of this area. The layer of fat is thinnest in this zone, therefore the skin is more permeable and more responsive to treatments and external stimuli than the face or the body.

Treatments can range from gentle exfoliation and general conditioning to restore dull, lifeless skin and improve hydration, to more specialised treatments to address specific needs such as static lines, broken capillaries, hyperpigmentation, acne and redness.

EXFOLIANTS Modalities designed to exfoliate the delicate and often sensitive skin of the decolletage should begin with lower concentrations of exfoliating agents to determine tolerance and sensitivity levels. Enzyme peels such as papain, bromelain, or curcubita pepo are ideal for first-time peels. These offer a safe way to naturally dissolve the keratinised protein layer of the skin and stimulate the regeneration process without disrupting the pH balance, leaving the decolletage softer, smoother and more youthful looking. Over time a gradual increase of peel strength will build tolerance and prevent irritation. At some point, you will be able to graduate to more effective exfoliation agents, such as lactic acid, that offer more dramatic and pleasing results.

Lactic acid is quite possibly the best acid agent for exfoliating the décolletage. Not only does it have excellent exfoliating abilities it also has cell regenerating abilities that make it a good choice for the décolletage. Compared to glycolic acid, lactic acid has a larger molecular structure, making it slightly less permeable, but ideally more suitable for exfoliating the decolletage. It also acts as a skin softener and does not dehydrate the epidermis the way other alpha and beta hydroxy

acids do, but actually improves moisture levels in the skin.

In a study conducted by Walter P. Smith, Ph.D., published in the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, the efficacy of lactic acid at 4 per cent was compared to glycolic acid at 4 per cent.

The study concluded that lactic acid was less irritating and slightly more effective at stimulating cellular turnover than glycolic acid. It must be noted however, that several glycolic brands now incorporate other nutrients to counteract this dryness. It all comes down to the formula. In other observations, he noted that while four to five per cent lactic acid modulated surface and epidermal changes 12 per cent lactic acid affected both the epidermis and the dermis resulting in changes in skin smoothness and texture, a reduction in the depth and the number of wrinkles, and improved epidermal and dermal firmness and thickness.

Blending peels or combination peels offer yet another exfoliation modality. These are comprised of a number of exfoliating agents that can address a multitude of conditions at once. Manufactured blended solutions often contain lower percentages of acids that, together produce similar results to a single, higher per cent acid without the risk of irritation.

The frequent use of low concentrations also appears to deliver good clinical outcomes, (see also Dr Des Fernandes’s article (page 40-43) of this journal.

If you prefer another alternative to acids there is always the Herbal Aktiv Peel. It will provide you with a highly effective exfoliation resurfacing outcome, while also stimulating and rejuvenation of the skin. The Herbal Akctiv Peel is excellent for treating not just the face, neck and décolletage, but also the hands. The effectiveness of this peel is that it achieves amazing results exclusively through the use of a unique combination of herbs including spirulina, calendula, chamomile, pansy, large leaf linden, ginseng, fenugreek, marshmellow, lemon balm, lungworth, field horsetail, sage, witch-hazel and plantago. This is a different approach, but highly effective as these peels have the capacity for dual benefit — exfoliation and rejuvenation and they achieve this exclusively through the use of herbs.

ADDRESSING SPECIFIC SKIN CONDITIONS While a series of peels will help to boost the skin and improve texture and tone, severe cases of pigmentation, redness and wrinkles may require a more clinical approach.

Vascular lesions In the case of vascular lesion you can achieve great results using an IPL or laser utilising the vascular setting.

Pigmentation In the event of extensive pigmentation with more advanced spots, or rougher skin texture, you may consider a course of skin needling as an effective strategy. Non-ablative lasers can also gently and effectively stimulate the production of collagen, while decreasing sun damage and hyperpigmenation. Laser and IPL on the appropriate settings can also improve skin firmness on the neck and decolletage.

Lose skin With age or weight loss, often the neck and décolletage lose elasticity and smoothness. Where extensive loose skin is evident the use of fraxel laser can be beneficial and when combined with PRP (platelet rich plasma) treatments you can achieve great results.

Dermal fillers also can provide a solution, as they counter the cumulative effects of sun damage, environmental exposure and other causes of premature ageing. Dermal fillers are an excellent solution for improving the appearance of skin around the décolletage, especially if deeper lines have already formed. By plumping fine lines and fighting crepey skin, dermal fillers add volume from beneath contributing to a smoother look. These fillers are a powerful nonsurgical rejuvenating treatment for the neck and chest as well as the face. Both Restylane® and JUVÉDERM® are good injectable fillers for reducing wrinkles and creases in these areas, while restoring a fresher, more youthful appearance. However, skin texture, pigmentation and hydration levels must first be restored through a systematic skin rejuvenation protocol with suggestions mentioned above.

APPROPRIATE MAINTENANCE AND PREVENTATIVE CARE Sun Protection Thorough sun protection is paramount. Because the skin covering the neck and sternum is especially thin, it is also especially vulnerable to sun damage. Over the years, the increased thinning of this skin, along with cumulative exposure to the sun, and even surprising factors like your posture when sitting, standing, and sleeping can combine to create a prematurely creased, aged look to the décolletage. Chronic sun exposure can also distort collagen fibres and lead to rougher texture, hyperpigmentation and spider veins.

It is important to educate your clients in the regular application of a full-spectrum UVA-UVB sunscreen to their décolletage to delay the development of sunspots and wrinkles that could make you look older before your time.

Hydration Just as with sunscreen, it’s common for women to focus on skincare for the face, while neglecting the thin and particularly fragile skin of the neck, chest, and shoulders. It is recommended that a cream cleanser be used for the decolletage designed for mature skin. To support hydration levels of the décolletage recommend a richer, high quality neck cream that should be applied to both the neck and décolletage. If there are broken capillaries look for ingredients such centella asciatica, horse chestnut, gingko biloba that support circulation and are also anti-inflammatory.

Tightening As the skin starts to show signs of ageing consider products that contain ingredients such as retinol, alpha lipoic acid, palmitoyl pentapeptide-3, hyaluronic acid, ascorbyl palmitate, dimethyl-aminoethanol and niacinamide to see the greatest anti-ageing benefits. Also consider high anti-oxidant content to help protect the skin from free-radical damage and restore skin to a more youthful appearance.

IN CONCLUSION Not providing treatments for the neck and décolletage can be a missed opportunity for your business. Furthermore, do not neglect to educate your clients on appropriate homecare. This should also include information of sleep patterns, posture and appropriately fitted bra. With the right care you can ensure that your anti-ageing treatments will offer a more comprehensive approach that includes the care of the neck and décolletage. APJ

APJ 97

MEMBERPROFILE

1. Beryl Chew (Malaysia), 2. Del Hayne (Australia), 3. Jenny Haagman (Netherlands), 4. Rene Serbon (Canada - Educator), 5. Edith Fraaij (Netherlands).

A GEM IN GUNNEDAH An Interview with Delma Hayes DELMA Hayes is an exceptional woman of substance. She possesses a great deal of passion, drive and determination that would outshine a woman half her age, but more importantly, her passion extends beyond her own personal gain, with views and concerns about the industry as a whole, and how the recognition of the profession can be best supported and improved. Constantly investing in her own education, whether this takes her to the next APAN conference, or internationally, Delma is committed to constantly improving and fueling her enthusiasm for every service she offers which must be to a certain standard.

vanced facials, body massage, body treatments, electrolysis, cosmetic tattooing, IPL and laser for hair removal, to skin rejuvenation, removal of vascular lesions and treating pigmentation conditions. We also provide treatments for tattoo removal, laser skin resurfacing, collagen induction therapy and LED therapy.

Owner of Etcetera Skin Therapy & Beauty — a salon located in Gunnedah, regional in NSW, she runs a very successful business that provides an incredible array of both skin and grooming services and manages to do this very successfully.

Over the past 30 years that the business has been operating. it has built an excellent reputation based on my specific values, ethics and education. We operate ethically within our scope of practice delivering treatments for which we are qualified.

In this interview Delma share with us her journey and her perspective on the industry.

APJ Q1: DELMA, HOW MANY YEARS HAVE YOU BEEN IN THIS INDUSTRY AND CAN YOU TRACE YOUR EARLY FOOTSTEPS ON HOW YOU GOT STARTED? I have been in the industry for more than four decades. I began my career in 1971 as an apprentice hairdresser. The salon offered some ‘beauty treatments’ i.e. manicures and facial waxing, it was during this time my interest in all things about skin was ignited. I wanted more information and education on the skin and advanced beauty treatments. I went on to study beauty therapy with Madame Korner and post graduate studies with Irma Gol, Ule & Eva Natterer, Trudy Fleming, Ilse Taumberger, Gay Wardle and Florence Barrett-Hill. These have been among the most influential of my educators. I have learned many things about many topics and I can confirm that no education is ever wasted. I have travelled the world studying skin-related topics. Learning to love learning has allowed me to keep earning.

APJ Q2: WHAT SERVICES DO YOU PROVIDE AND WHAT WOULD YOU CONSIDER TO BE YOUR COMPETITIVE ADVANTAGE? Being in a regional area there is a demand for a diverse range of treatments. We therefore offer a wide variety of grooming and skin-improvement treatments and services.

These include basic treatments such as waxing, tinting, manicures, pedicures and gel polish, right through to facials, adAPJ 98

Our competitive advantage is based on providing excellence in customer service as well as excellence in treatment outcomes. Our reputation, education and friendly professional service are unparalleled.

To ensure we can deliver on all our clients’ needs we have a collaborative relationship with cosmetic doctors who provide our clients with cosmetic medical services. We liaise and operate with a strong professional network including doctors, nutritionists, naturopaths, plastic surgeons, dermatologists, personal trainers and counsellors. With such an extensive professional network we can provide our clients with the very best possible service that can address many of their needs at the various levels.

APJ Q3: MANY BUSINESSES STRUGGLE TO FIND THE IDEAL STAFF, FROM YOUR EXPERIENCE WHAT ARE THE MOST IMPORTANT QUALITIES YOU LOOK FOR WHEN HIRING STAFF? I have to admit that it is hard to find great employees. My main employee has been by my side for 20 years because she has chosen to be there. I still struggle to maintain a balance in having educated, as well as passionate employees.

I understand that conducting a business and employing apprentices and trainees in rural New South Wales is challenging. In retaining employees, specifically after apprenticeships, we attempt to guide these young women through their basic training, teaching them to aim high and always aspire to continue to learn and reach their full potential.

When they leave to go to the city, or another country, we feel proud to be part of the introductory phase of their careers.

I am happy to say that I have maintained a professional, friendly relationship with nearly all of my trainees.

Regardless of the job description, I look for specific qualities from my staff. These include a positive attitude, passion, artistry, the ability to work efficiently as a team member, as well as the ability to work independently without the need for extensive supervision. I also highly value their ability to commit to the business in a professional and loyal manner.

Other considerations I look for is how well are they supported by their family and the kind of activities they engage with in their personal time. This gives me an understanding of their background.

APJ Q4: YOU ARE A PROFESSIONAL WHO VALUES HIGH STANDARDS, WHAT CHANGES WOULD YOU LIKE TO SEE HAPPEN THAT WOULD IMPROVE THE INDUSTRY? I believe that the industry needs a big wake up call. Industry professionals need to have a greater input into what units and competencies are included in the Beauty Training Package. While many of the decision on what is included in VET sector education is administered by government agencies, more attention must be given to what businesses and the industry need. I say this because our current training standards are deficient and inadequate. There is not enough education in the areas of skin biology, skin science, skin physiology and cosmetic chemistry. How can graduates develop a treatment plan and determine treatment outcomes when their fundamental knowledge is so inadequate?

The online courses are also grossly inadequate. The training for practical subjects is given via a videos. How can you possibly perform professional treatments with only this as your instruction? Then you are just required to perform 3-6 practical treatments at an elected salon and this is consider the sufficient requirement to meet competency standards?

Cert I-IV are the “softer” units of beauty. I believe that apprentices should be able to upgrade to diploma at their place of employment with a set of specific skills and theoretical learning without the huge payment required by RTOs. Alternatively, apprentices should be offered a 12-month internship to upgrade to a diploma level. Both practical and theory should be able to be delivered in-salon with the requirement of specific competencies to be met with supporting evidence. In my opinion the on-line training needs an overhaul with minimal salon hours increased to ensure more comprehensive skills-development.

There is currently no unit in the beauty training package that addresses collagen induction therapy, even though these treatments have been delivered in salons for over five years, yet graduates at a diploma level have no knowledge about these procedures.

I understand that now we have degree qualified dermal therapists. What is the pay rate for employing these graduates? There is no category for this level of education in the wage awards. What is their job description even if they have undertaken beauty therapy prior to this degree? There is still a lot to be done in this industry to support professional recognition. We need to pursue higher standards for that we can be proud of. Don’t let the stories on A Current Affair be indicative of our profession.

APJ Q5:WHAT ARE YOUR THOUGHTS AND BEST ADVICE TO BUSINESSES WHO ARE CONCERNED ABOUT THE GROWING COMPETITION? I’ve always been aware of my competition, but I have always followed my mantra — Mind your own business!

I offer services that I am passionate about and that I am excellent at delivering. If some services are outside of my skill-set, or passion, I employ someone who is both qualified, skilled and passionate at the appropriate modality.

I never get into the discounting competition and if a service isn’t profitable, I don’t do it. To be successful in business it is important to always do your homework. Research before you introduce something new, invest in your education and don’t forget to celebrate and reward both clients and employees as they are both invaluable to your business.

APJ Q6: WHAT VALUE AND BENEFITS HAS APAN BROUGHT TO YOUR BUSINESS? APAN provide me with excellent information, important industry news, quality education through their conference programs and workshops and through APJ Journal, as well as great networking opportunities, all of which allow me to grow and develop professionally. APJ If you would like to contact Delma Hayes at Etcetera Skin Therapy & Beauty Ph: 02 6742 4672 or Email etcetera1@bigpond.com APJ 99

PHYSICALEXERCISE

EXERCISE AND SKIN HEALTH

by Lynette Rouse, B.HSc

As far as the skin is concerned, leaky gut syndrome can deplete the body of nutrients that are unable to reach the skin resulting in dull and dry skin through the disruption of normal keratinocyte differentiation and inflammation.

WHEN we think of strategies for skin improvement we often donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t consider the role of movement and exercise, not just in improving overall health, but how it can also contribute to skin health. In this article Lynette Rouse discusses specifics on this subject and provides an overview on the latest scientific findings on how both the body and the skin can benefit from exercise.

There are lots of reasons to exercise. Regular exercise can improve the function of your lungs, your heart rate, it can benefit you by decreasing your waste-line and it can reduce inflammation driven by stress, while improving the overall blood and lymph circulation of your body.

When you exercise, your breathing becomes regulared, you sleep better, endorphins are released improving your mood and emotions. Proteins and carbs are absorbed four times faster, heart and blood valves function better, and after several months of exercising, your brain has greater clarity and can make good decisions faster.

Studies confirm that exercise improves health and life expectancy, while slowing down the ageing process.

During exercise your blood circulation increases due to the demand of oxygen required by the muscles. Through exercise you can improve the function of your lungs which can increase their capacity to eliminate carbon dioxide, while increasing oxygen intake.

Improving blood circulation is also beneficial to the skin as blood transports nutrients and oxygen. Through exercise, the skin is greatly supported by the increase in blood supply to the extremities of the body including the skin which encases the whole body.

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The digestive system is a major contributor to skin health according to Dr Natasha McBride. Dr McBride has dedicated several books on this subject that are based on sound scientific research. She also confirms that research has now validated that all disease begins in the gut.

There is more supporting evidence that poor gut health through poor diet, or antibiotic overuse has shown to decrease the good bacteria in the gut and has led to gut dysbiosis, or small intestinal bacterial overgrowth (ISBO).

Harmful bacteria produces corrosive substances that attack the gut wall and, in time, tiny cracks appear. Through these cracks, harmful molecules that normally would have been eliminated remain in the body creating toxicity. This is known as leaky gut syndrome, or intestinal permeability.

Substances from bacteria, virus, fungi, incompletely digested food, toxins from bacteria metabolism can leak into the body.

As far as the skin is concerned, leaky gut syndrome can deplete the body of nutrients that are unable to reach the skin resulting in dull and dry skin through the disruption of normal keratinocyte differentiation and inflammation.

New research findings show that athletes have a wider range of good bacteria suggesting that vigorous exercise could play a significant role in keeping your digestive system healthy.

STRESS AND THE SKIN The intricate relationship between stress and skin conditions has been documented since ancient times. Recent clinical observations also link psychological stress to the onset

of aggravation of multiple skin diseases. However, the exact underlying mechanisms have only been studied and partially revealed in the past 20 years or so.

Cortisol is a stress hormone. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s there to react and adapt your body to states of stress through the para-sympathetic nervous system through the fight-or-flight response.

When the body has too much cortisol the resulting symptoms include fatigue, inflammation, sugar cravings, high blood pressure, high cholesterol and the dreaded accumulation of belly fat. These symptoms are usually short-term.

On the other hand, low levels of cortisol are also harmful as they result in more chronic conditions such as chronic fatigue, chronic inflammation, such as fibromyalgia, as well as the sugar cravings, high blood pressure, high cholesterol and belly fat as you would experience with high cortisol symptoms.

When high levels of cortisol are constantly being driven into cell receptors over a period of time, your body adapts to them and the result is a downgrade in the receptor leading to cortisol resistance and glucocorticoid receptor resistance that arises from chronic stress.

When inside the cell there is a starvation of cortisol this can effect our health on so many levels. You need a certain amount of cortisol, not too much, but just enough to assist with lowering inflammation and regulating blood sugar. When cortisol levels are out of balance this also leads to sugar cravings.

When it comes to the skin, low levels of cortisol result in hyperpigmentation, allergies and autoimmune disorders. To

counteract this you will need to consider lifeestyle changes, such as going for long walks and including gentle exercises such as yoga, pilates, or being in nature. Mindfulness is also a wonderful tool.

Ageing of the skin is commonly associated with structural deterioration of skin that compromises its barrier function, healing, and susceptibility to disease. Several lines of evidence show that these changes are driven largely by impaired tissue mitochondrial metabolism.

While exercise is associated with numerous health benefits there is evidence that short-term aerobic exercise intervention improves skin structure and increases tissue mitochondria. Specifically the research indicated that it benefits the skin by: 1. Thickening the stratum corneum 2. Thickening the stratum spinosum 3. Thickening he reticular dermis collagen content ESTABLISHING YOUR ROUTINE For some people regular exercise is simple, while for others it can be a challenge. However, exercise is a necessity for the health of our body and the skin. It is therefore important to determine a strategy that will best suit you and find a way that movement and exercise can best agree with you and commit to a regular routine.

Finding what works for you and sticking to it will bring enhancement to your life and health immediately and longterm. APJ

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INGREDIENTSCIENCE

HYALURONIC ACID

DOES SIZE MATTER?

By Tina Viney HYALURONIC ACID (HA) is being used in cosmetic products as a moisture booster, preventer of moisture loss, humectant, and anti-inflammatory. It is considered part of the gold standard together with retinol and vitamin C as a scientifically-validated ingredient in anti-ageing skincare.

weight formulations (LMW-HA) are now touted as actually being superior because they can penetrate the skin better.

However, new research is suggesting that rather than being better it actually has different benefits depending on what outcome you want from it.

There are several reasons why HA is so effective and skin-friendly. Here are just some interesting considerations: HA is an anionic polysaccharide that has great water binding activity that might work as an anti-wrinkle ingredient at low levels, like 0.1% to 2%.

Let’s take a closer look and HA and its role in the body.

It is found in the middle spinous layer of our skin, not in the stratum corneum, or stratum granulosum, but between these two layers of the epidermis. Its role in skin hydration is not completely known, but it is a very powerful humectant that can bind a thousand times its weight in water and it does help our skin in retaining water for hydration. Older and dry skin is characterised by lower levels of HA, with 50year old skin having about half the HA it had when younger.

Hyaluronic acid (HA) is ubiquitous in mammals, forming a key component of connective tissue in our bodies. The average person has roughly 15 grams of HA in the body, onethird of which is turned over (degraded and re-synthesised) every day. HA is an important structural molecule in the extracellular matrix of our skin. It is synthesised there by fibroblasts, fibrocytes, and by roving stem repair cells derived from bone marrow(MSC’s) that show up in case of wounding and other forms of damage.

So far studies are showing that topical application of HA won't penetrate your skin to increase the amount in the stratum spinosum as the molecules are too big, although it will make your stratum corneum feel nicer.

The question many ask is “If it doesn't penetrate through our skin, does it do it any good?” The answer is yes, it does. Studies are showing that the application of topical HA can form films on the skin that will increase moisture, reduce moisture loss, speed up wound healing, reduce inflammation, and decrease the formation of age spots. It softens the skin and restores elasticity to skin, which can reduce the look of fine lines and wrinkles.

THE ISSUE OF MOLECULAR WEIGHT In an attempt to improve its penetration rate low moleclar APJ 102

Diagram showing injury – HA fragmentation into LMW varieties – cytokine induction – inflammation cascade leading to fibrosis and scarring.

HA is used therapeutically – it is the stuff of facial fillers, and can be applied topically as a humectant. Being a very large molecule, it does not penetrate and instead sits of the skin surface where it binds to water to maintain hydration, and cross links with other HA molecules to knit together a temporary barrier. As a large molecule it is very useful to help maintain skin’s barrier function after minor injuries.

Because our bodies make it — it is completely natural to humans — and therefore very unlikely to cause an allergic reaction.

When wounding or damage (e.g. sunburn) occurs, there is released early on-set of hyaluronidase enzymes, which breaks HA down into fragments. The size of these can vary from low (LMW-HA) to medium (MMW-HA) molecular weights and this is where it gets interesting.

HMW-HA has been shown to attenuate the inflammatory response, suggesting that HMW-HA promotes regenerative healing in adult wounds because it creates a protective barrier over the wound.

On the other hand, LMW-HA and intermediate-weight HA increase the expression of macrophage inflammatory protein-1a and monocyte chemotactic protein-1, which may suggest that LMW-HA is important in the induction of the inflammatory cascade.

Other scientific peer-reviewed publications peg LMW-HA as pro-inflammatory by multiple mechanisms: they stimulate macrophages to produce inflammatory chemokines, induce interferons, recruit T-cells, induce IL12 cytokines, and induce nitric-oxide synthase to produce excess NO2.

disrupted, e.g. during microneedling.

Small fragments of the extracellular matrix component hyaluronic acid are typically produced at sites of inflammation and tissue injury and have been shown to be associated with tumour invasiveness and metastasis. Exposure of human melanoma cells to small HA fragments leads to nuclear factor kB (NFk-B) activation followed by enhanced expression of matrix metalloprotease (MMP) 2 and interleukin (IL)-8, factors that can contribute to melanoma progression. This suggests that LMW-HA in melanoma might promote tumour invasiveness by inducing MMP- and cytokine-expression. ` According to another study, low molecular weight HA may also play a role in breast cancer metastasis.

There is abundant experimental evidence from the human physiology and biochemistry literature to support the basic notion that LMW-HA is inflammatory, pro-fibrotic, and associated with adult scarring phenotypes rather than foetus-like, scar-free, truly regenerative healing. The latter is what we want in an any aesthetic procedure, or topical adjunct to a procedure, or just for topical use.

As you can see weight is important. However, these studies clearly support high molecular weight (HMW-HA) still plays an important role in skincare, if not different role to low molecular weight (LMW-HA).

These studies shed new light on how the molecular weight should be viewed in terms of their different functions. APJ

For a list of references, please contact the editor.

In both adults and foetuses, HA levels increase in response to wounding.

However, unlike adults, foetuses produce much more HMW-HA in response to injury. HAS-1 over-expression will promote dermal regeneration in part by decreasing the inflammatory response and by recapitulation of foetal ECM HMWHA content.

The type of collagen production to regenerate skin is affected by the relative presence of HMW vs LMW HA. A fine reticular pattern is produced in the non-inflammatory environment of HMS-HA, whereas a more disorganised pattern is seen when HA fragments abound. The results (scar free vs scarring) has aesthetic implications.

It is of considerable interest that organic “contact sensitise induce production of reactive oxygen species (ROS) and a concomitant breakdown of the extracellular matrix (ECM) component hyaluronic acid (HA) to pro-inflammatory low molecular weight fragments in the skin. So, in some ways, adding LMW-HA topically may replicate that cascade of events. This makes it especially problematic when you consider the application of HA when the skin barrier has been APJ 103

SCIENTIFIC NEWS

Research and Scientific New Developments

WE are changing the format of our Scientific News section and handing it over to Terry Everitt with his wealth of knowledge in skin science and scientific data. Terry will not just present interesting current scientific findings from the research community, but also at the end of each section, he will include useful comments so when your clients may mention something they have read, you will be in an advantageous position to give the correct facts and increase your value to the client.

HARD WATER DAMAGES THE SKIN magnesium ions using an ion-exchange water softener could mitigate the negative effects of hard water on the skin. This is in fact what happened, which reduced the harmful effects of surfactants, potentially decreasing the risk of developing or, increasing the severity of atopic dermatitis.

Effect of Water Hardness on Surfactant Deposition Following Washing and Subsequent Skin Irritation in Atopic Dermatitis Patients and Healthy Controls.

Not surprisingly, researchers from the University of Sheffield and King’s College London have discovered that exposing the skin to hard water damages the skin barrier, which increases the sensitivity of the skin to potential irritants found in everyday wash products such as soap, or washing powder.

Hard water contains high levels of calcium and magnesium ions that bind to surfactants, such as sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS) and sodium lauryl ether sulphate (SLES) — which act as detergents or wetting agents — making them insoluble, so they precipitate onto the skin.

As you are aware, skin pH is acidic. Hard water has high alkalinity, which means it can raise the skin surface pH. A shift towards alkaline pH disturbs the skin’s natural function as a physical barrier and leaves it prone to several negative effects, including sensitivity.

Those with Atopic Dermatitis (formerly known as eczema), have a genetic predisposition to a skin barrier defect brought about by mutations in the gene encoding filaggrin. Filaggrin is a structural protein important for the formation of our skin’s barrier to the outside environment, with up to half of all people with atopic dermatitis carry a filaggrin gene.

Researchers examined whether removing the calcium and

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Hard water is not much of a problem in most urban areas in Australia; however, in some rural areas, it does remain a concern. If you are in an area of hard water, then this study shines some light on what possibly may be the cause of increased sensitivity in and on the skin and what you can do about it. You may need to check all surfactants and penetration ingredients — don’t think just the cleansers may be the problem. A lot of moisturisers also use penetration to get actives into the skin beyond the superficial Corneum.

Danby, S.G. Brown, K. Wigley, A.M. Chittock, J., Pyae, P.K. Flohr, C. Cork, M.J. (2017). The Effect of Water Hardness on Surfactant Deposition Following Washing and Subsequent Skin Irritation in Atopic Dermatitis Patients and Healthy Controls. Journal of Investigative Dermatology. DOI: 10.10.16/j.jid2017.08.037 [Epub ahead of print]

AUSTRALIA LEADS THE WORLD IN SKIN CANCER The incidence and multiplicity rates of keratinocyte cancers in Australia.

A massive research project with a data set of over 1.7 million patients, during 2011–2014, concluded that “Australia

can expect to remain a global leader in rates of skin cancers for the next couple of decades”. This is the first time that an accurate accounting of keratinocyte cancers on such a scale has been undertaken.

The estimated standardised incidence rates for Basal Cell

all localised strange growths or colouration changes on the skin checked at least by a GP, preferably a dermatologist.

Pandeya, N. Olsen, C. Whiteman, D. (2017). The incidence and multiplicity rates of keratinocyte cancers in Australia. Medical Journal of Australia. 2017; 207 (8): 339-343. doi: 10.5694/mja17.00284

SOCIO-ECONOMIC DATA FINDINGS AND CANCER Research finds higher rates of cancer in world's ‘better’ countries.

Carcinomas (BCC) and Squamous Cell Carcinomas (SCC) were 770 per 100 000 and 270 per 100 000 respectively; not surprisingly the study found that incidence increased with age, and was higher for men than women.

What we have known for some time is that the incident rate increases once the person has had a skin cancer. This research has put the incident rate higher than first thought at eight times as high among people with a prior history of skin cancer excisions as among those without. 3.9% of Australians had one keratinocyte cancer excised and 2.7% had more than one excised; 74% of skin cancers were excised from patients who had two or more previous lesions removed.

Queensland remains the ‘skin cancer state’, the keratinocyte cancer incidence climbed to 2679 per 100 000, New South Wales and the ACT were at the national average of 1495, while Victoria and Tasmania were below the average at 966.

This shows a very distinct latitude gradient; the closer to the equator, the higher the rates of these types of cancers.

While some think these are trivial cancers, they can spread and cause much damage beneath the epidermis, particularly SCC, which can also result in metastases.

Your job is to remain vigilant and while you cannot make a medical diagnosis, you must be aware of the presentations of keratinocyte cancers-both Basal Cell Carcinomas and Squamous Cell Carcinomas, along with the Melanocyte Melanomas.

You have a duty-of-care to advise your clients to have any and

Coming from the University of Adelaide emerges new research that found countries with better access to healthcare, experience much higher rates of cancer than the countries with less access to healthcare.

Researchers say this is the result of relaxed "natural selection", because modern medicine is enabling people to survive cancers, and their genetic backgrounds are passing from one generation to the next, resulting in the rate of some cancers doubling and even quadrupling in the world over the past 100 years.

Comparative anatomy and human evolution expert Professor Maciej Henneberg and PhD student Wenpeng You, both from the University's Adelaide Medical School, have been studying global cancer data from the World Health Organisation, as well as other health and socioeconomic data from the United Nations and the World Bank of 173 countries and have found an accumulation of cancer incidence over four to five generations.

Countries with low mortality rates may allow more people with cancer genetic background to reproduce and pass cancer genes/mutations to the next generation.

The percentage increase in ‘healthy’ countries as opposed to ‘unhealthy’ countries are amazing, such as: Testicular cancer 14 times higher, Lung cancer 12 times higher, Skin melanoma 10 times higher, Brain cancer 6.5 times higher, Pancreatic cancer 5.1 higher, Prostate cancer 3.5, higher, Leukemia 3.5 higher, Breast cancer 2.7 times higher and Ovarian cancer 2 times higher.

APJ 105

SCIENTIFIC NEWS

Research and Scientific New Developments

The authors conclude with an interesting observation “It may be that the only way humankind can be rid of cancer once and for all is through genetic engineering — to repair our genes and take cancer out of the equation”.

In knowing this information, how can this help your client care?

Think about this one a little.

You, W. Henneberg, M. (2017). Cancer incidence increasing globally: The role of relaxed natural selection. Evolutionary Applications. 2017. 00. pp1–13. http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/ eva.12523/pdf

to have lower rates of body skin problems between 1 and 3 months (42.1% vs 55.2%). Additionally the intervention group had a lower face TEWL (mean ± standard deviation, 14.69 ± 7.38 vs 17.08 ± 8.26 g/m2 per h), higher face stratum corneum hydration (SCH) (60.38 vs 53.52) and higher body SCH (58.89 vs 53.02).

All skin requires hydration and of course, in the initial months post-partum the infant has not a completed barrier defence.

While we know this, it is good to have this very recent study to prove it. Moisturising skincare was effective for improving skin barrier function and preventing newborns' diaper dermatitis.

Use this knowledge to impart to your clients with babies the importance of moisturising not only themselves, yet their babies as well.

Yonezawa, K. Haruna, M. Matsuzaki, M. Shiraishi, M. Kojima, R. (2017). Effects of moisturizing skincare on skin barrier function and the prevention of skin problems in 3-month-old infants: A randomized controlled trial. Journal of Dermatology. Oct 6. 2017. doi: 10.1111/1346-8138.14080. [Epub ahead of print]

DO MOISTURISING SKINCARE BENEFIT BABIES? Effects of moisturising skincare on skin barrier function and the prevention of skin problems in 3-month-old infants.

We all know that moisturising the skin is recommended for many reasons including reducing Tran-epidermal water loss (TEWL). In a study of 227 babies up to 3-months old they tested the hypothesis that moisturising skincare would improve skin barrier function. The study compared bathing every day and using lotion daily (n=113) to the control group who had daily bathing without lotion (control, n = 114).

Each baby had skin barrier function (Trans-epidermal water loss [TEWL], stratum corneum hydration [SCH], skin pH and sebum secretion) tested monthly.

Compared with the control, newborns in the intervention group had significantly lower rates of diaper dermatitis between birth and 1-month old (6.3% vs 15.9%), and tended APJ 106

BREAST IMPLANTS AND LYMPHOMA New studies identified the role interaction of bacteria with implant surfaces may contribute to inflammation and the transformation of lymphocytes into cancer.

Therapeutic Goods Administration (TGA) was the first regulatory authority in the world to confirm the likelihood of a causal link between breast implants and breast implant-associated anaplastic large cell lymphoma (BIA-ALCL) in December of 2016. The TGA confirmed that 53 cases of

BIA-ALCL had occurred in Australia between 2007 and 2017, including three deaths in Australia. The cases occurred 3–14 years after implantation, with a median interval of 8 years.

according to a study. Research funded by The Woolmark Company has demonstrated benefits of wearing superfine Merino.

BIA-ALCL has been associated with textured implants with large surface area, which have become increasingly used in Australia in the belief that they reduce the risk of capsular contracture.

According to the report, dermatology trials have shown that adult and infant eczema sufferers have reduced symptoms when wearing superfine Merino wool garments next to the skin.

There is such a thing as the Australian Breast Device Registry although the registry was only as good as the quality of its data. The registry is not yet compulsory, so is not capturing all cases and it does not capture complications that do not need surgery.

The report states: “When worn next to skin, superfine Merino wool works as a dynamic buffer, helping maintain a more stable humidity and temperature in the micro-climate between the fabric and the skin.

While patients with implants for post-cancer breast reconstruction were well studied, Professor Deva, (Professor of Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery at Macquarie University) said that relatively little was known about the long-term outcomes for patients with implants for cosmetic purposes.

Professor Deva is also soon to publish research in Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery investigating the role of infection in the development of BIA-ALCL. “What we have shown over 10 years is that the commonest cause of contracture and re-operation is actually infection — the interaction of bacteria with these implant surfaces,” he said, adding that “this infection may play a role in causing inflammation and the transformation of lymphocytes into cancer”.

It must be stressed that not everyone with a seroma is going to have an ALCL, but certainly if someone has had implants for a period of time and presents with swelling it should really be treated as ALCL until proven otherwise.

Mackee, N. (2017). Breast implants and lymphoma. Medical Journal of Australia. 33. August.

“Wool garments are the most breathable of the common apparel types, absorbing and releasing twice as much moisture vapour as cotton and thirty times as much as polyester. It appears superfine Merino wool acts like a second skin for these people whose ‘first’ skin is too dry.”

The theory that wool’s unique moisture-management could benefit eczema sufferers was put to the test in a 12-week clinical trial, which confirmed the beneficial findings of wearing superfine Merino wool garments with a mean fibre diameter less than or, equal to 17.5 micron.

A study of approximately 40 babies and young children under 3 years old, at the Murdoch Children’s Research Institute (MCRI) in Melbourne, showed significant advantages of superfine Merino wool base-layers rather than cotton in improving the symptoms of eczema.

Published in the British Journal of Dermatology, the study concluded that traditional management guidelines classing all wool-based clothing as irritants should be modified to include superfine Merino wool as a recommended clothing choice in childhood atopic dermatitis.

MERINO WOOL THERAPEUTIC FOR SKIN The theory that wool’s unique moisture management could benefit eczema sufferers was put to the test in a 12-week clinical trial, which confirmed some interesting findings.

Wool garments are the most breathable of the common apparel types, absorbing and releasing twice as much moisture vapour as cotton and thirty times as much as polyester.

Wearing superfine Merino wool next to the skin is therapeutic, and can offer natural relief to those suffering from eczema, APJ 107

SCIENTIFIC NEWS

Research and Scientific New Developments

“A major focus of The Woolmark Company’s Fibre Advocacy investment program is validating the health and wellbeing benefits of wool products,” said Stuart McCullough, Managing Director of The Woolmark Company.

With eight per cent of consumers not buying wool because they consider it itchy, it is important to challenge these myths and champion wool’s therapeutic benefits. Sponsoring these clinical trials and publishing the findings in credible peer-reviewed medical journals not only promotes wool’s wellness benefits and also provides eczema sufferers with a natural alternative to traditional treatment.

In 2006, dementia was the fourth leading cause of death in Australia. Yet in barely 10 years, Alzheimer’s and specifically dementia, has risen to become the biggest threat to women’s health and the second leading cause of death in Australians overall.

Australia is now ranked 2nd in the world (according to World Health Organisation) for death because of dementia.

1-in-12 had dementia as the underlying cause of death (13,126 deaths). This equates to around 36 deaths per day.

Treating a very mature skin has its own concerns. Now be a little kinder to your older clients as they forget things, like appointments. In this case you need to send reminders to the client as to their upcoming appointment. As with all clients, provide your homecare advice and recommendations in print.

Australian Bureau of Statistics. (2017). Australia’s leading causes of death, 2016. http://www.abs.gov.au/ausstats/abs@.nsf/Lookup/by%20Subject/3303.0~2016~Main%20Features~Australia’s%20 leading%20causes%20of%20death,%202016~3 APJ

MYTH BUSTER Myth: Birthmarks are caused by the physical process of birth.

Fact: Birthmarks result from overgrowth of normal skin structures.

Birthmarks have long been a source of mystery for humans, attracting a raft of myths and superstitions.

Birthmarks generally result from an overgrowth of a structure that is normally present in the skin.

DID YOU KNOW? Dementia is now the leading cause of death in Australian women.

Sadly, in 2016, dementia, including Alzheimer’s disease, overtook heart disease as the leading cause of death in Australian women. This sobering development in population health was reported by the Australian Bureau of Statistics, 27th September 2017.

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Overgrowth of blood vessels produces vascular birthmarks or haemangiomas; an overgrowth of pigment cells produces congenital naevi or moles.

Birthmarks come in all different forms, including café au lait macules, congenital melanocytic naevi, Mongolian spots, strawberry naevi, port wine stains.

“For most babies, they don’t create major problems and many birthmarks do not require any treatment.”

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AESTHETIC INDUSTRY BULLETIN

NUTRICOSMETICS – THE BUSINESS OF BEAUTY INSIDE OUT ACCORDING to a recent report conduction by Kline Research Consulting the new age of beauty has dawned where it is no longer defined by heavy makeup or performance creams, but rather beauty that comes from within.

The concept of beauty and personal care has evolved over the past several years as part of a holistic approach to selfcare, which promotes the notion of eating healthy and organic foods, taking supplements, exercising, and managing stress.

Nutricosmetics — often referred to as ingestible beauty or beauty supplements —are taking the notion of beauty from within further. An array of products that serve different purposes, from promoting reduction in fine lines, to improving skin texture, to achieving lustrous, thick, and strong growing hair and nails are flooding the market to address the needs of experimental consumers. Products include collagen supplements, dust powders, and shakes are the new forms of supplements offered by several nutricosmetic brands.

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Nutricosmetics is a market seeing rapid growth as consumers embrace the inside-out phenomenon. For example, probiotic supplements help improve digestive health and immunity and have grown significantly over the past decade as revealed in Kline’s recently published study Digestive Health, Immunity and Probiotics – US Market Analysis Opportunity.

Consumers buy in to the notion that they can improve their overall health and wellbeing from the inside-out by taking probiotic supplements on a regular basis. Consumers understand “you are what you eat” and that to have smooth skin, shiny hair, or long strong nails supplements that can add key nutrients to their diet will help improve outward appearance.

Scientific research on the benefits of collagen, biotin, and other ingredients helps boost the appeal of such supplements.

However, what are the key drivers of nutricosmetics, and where do the opportunities lie? What channels of distribution are utilised by brands to reach consumers, and which brands are ahead of the curve? The Kline report presented the fast moving brands, trends and opportunities and urgedd businesses to take the nuticosmetics trend seriously.

This section presents the latest news, training dates and other Aesthetic Industry information

Celsius before using the laser. The researchers set the cryogen for 40 milliseconds (ms) of application, followed by a 20-ms delay before treating with the Candela laser.

LASER HAIR REMOVAL COOLING METHODS AND OPERATOR SAFETY Operators who use refrigerated air, or cryogen spray cooling rather than contact cooling during laser hair removal procedures could be breathing in potentially dangerous carcinogens and toxins found in plume released during treatment, according to a recent Cutera-funded study.

They found post treatment perifollicular oedema occurred with both devices. But as long as providers used the contact cooling device, maintained contact and used aloe vera gel, no detectable plume escaped during treatment. That was in stark contrast to 72-fold increase in plume levels from baseline with the cryogen cooling device. The odour was also noticeably less with contact cooling, according to the study.

Ref: www.AestheticsChannel.com

NEW SKIN CANCER WARNING: NOT ALL SUSPECT MOLES ARE DARK

Dr. Ross, the study’s lead author, dermatologist E. Victor Ross, M.D. says the finding itself, wasn’t that surprising.

Rather, it was the significance of the finding that got his attention. Submicron nanoparticles released during laser hair removal have been shown to contain chemical compounds, including carcinogens and environmental toxins. To protect themselves from burning hair plume, laser operators should use smoke evacuators, respiratory protection and good ventilation, according to the paper.

This study examined the plume effect of using contact cooling, or sapphire skin cooling, during laser hair removal with Cutera’s excel HR device compared to cryogen skin cooling with GentleMax (Candela). The researchers didn’t use a smoke evacuator.

They applied a layer of clear aloe vera gel to the treatment area and set the sapphire window temperature to 4 degrees

Until now, public health messages about skin cancer haven't warned about paler, less obvious lesions.

"Typically, a lot of people assume, wrongly, that melanomas are associated with dark pigmented moles," said Chris McMillan, the CEO of Cancer Council Queensland.

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But research has shown that risks missing a significant number of potential lethal melanomas.

"And it takes decades for a melanoma to develop — decades. Which makes prevention vital.”

"Realistically, we find that 20 per cent of melanomas are pale-coloured lesions," Mr McMillan said.

"Change is the hallmark of cancer, and it's the hallmark of melanoma," Ms Aitken said.

Cancer Council Australia recently announced changes to its melanoma diagnosis guidelines for doctors.

"So things that are changing are things that people should be having checked."

The previous guidelines were based on the ABCD method with doctors assessing: • Asymmetry

Ms Angus is living proof of the importance of regular skin checks.

• Border • Colour, and

"If I hadn't have gone for the skin check-up, I would have died — that's just the bottom line," she said.

• Diameter But now they're being asked to also add the EFG assessment — looking at Elevation, Firmness and Growth.

The guideline change means a change in public health messaging.

A 2012 Cancer Council TV advertisement features an animation of a growing black melanoma, but Mr McMillan agrees that this could be misleading.

"Those sort of scary images don't have a great effect," he said. "A slightly tweaked message will be out there."

A Melbourne woman Rachel Angus, had a near miss with a melanoma nine years ago. She pointed out a pink spot on her leg to her doctor during a routine skin check.

"He had a look at it and said 'oh, it doesn't look like anything at all, but we'll take it off just in case'," she said.

Skin cancer doctor Dr Tony Dicker, was shocked when the biopsy result showed the spot was a melanoma.

"It scares you," he said. “As a doctor, you suddenly see these spots and realise ‘wow, I could easily miss this.”

Dr Dicker says the new guidelines are very useful. "They get you thinking the right way about what you need to consider, which lumps and bumps to be concerned about. It helps lead you to the right diagnosis. If it’s changing, it needs checking" he said.

Australia has the highest incidence of melanoma in the world. About 30 Australians are diagnosed with the skin cancer every day — and more than 1,000 people die of the disease each year. There is evidence that decades of public health campaigns, such as Slip Slop Slap, are working. However, the incidence of melanomas is continuing to rise.

"The reason for this is that there's a very long latency period," the head of research at Cancer Council Queensland, Joanne Aitken, said.

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IDEAS ON BEAUTY ARE CHANGING ANALYSIS SHOWS Slowly, it appears, the world of glossy magazines is acknowledging that beautiful people are not all young and white.

An analysis published in the journal JAMA Dermatology found that the composition of the annual World’s Most Beautiful list, published by the US People Magazine has changed Significantly — if not dramatically — over the past 25 years.

The study, led by Mayra Maymone, of the Boston University School of Medicine, used gender, age and skin colour to compare the 50 celebrities in the magazine’s 1990 list to the 135 that made the 2017 version, published in April.

Skin colour was graded according to the Fitzpatrick scale, with the scale ranging from level one — pale white — to level six — dark brown.

Maymone and her colleagues found that in 1990 88% of people the magazine deemed in terms of skin tone, beauty was defined to sit within the Fitzpatrick levels one to three (topping out, thus, at “cream-white”) and just 12% had darker skins.

This year the balance has changed with 30% of the “beautiful people” falling into the three darker grades.

Gender balance swung heavily towards women, with men accounting for 48% in 1990 but falling to only 12% in the latest list.

The mean age of the “beautiful people” crept up slightly, moving from 33.2 years in 1990 to 38.9 in 2017.

Beauty, however, whether male or female, continued to be interpreted as an unblemished and smooth skin. Combining the lists, the researchers found that only five out of 185 people had any sort of “visible skin condition or lesion that marred the even distribution of texture and/or colour”.

While some critics might reasonably interpret the analysis results to indicate that mass media depictions of aesthetic perfection still fall well short of reflecting the diversity of modern society, Maymone’s team opted for an optimistic conclusion.

The results, they wrote, indicate that “beauty standards are evolving as people learn how to integrate the effects of media with exposure to new cultures and different norms.”

The 2017 Most Beautiful list, by the way, was headed by the actress Julia Roberts. It was her fifth time as winner.

Ref: Cosmo Magazine

studies confirm that most consumers pick up their phone approximate 100 – 150 times a day. This means that your clients have incredible accessibility to data that will influence their purchasing habits. Using a smart phone is about immediacy and instant gratification, researchers tell us.

Value, comparisons and social Although this focus on mobile technology has dominated consumer habits in recent years, experts warn that brands have been slow to adapt to this trend to provide a seamless, friction-free, multi-channel experience for the customer.

They stress that value-conscientiousness is a key factor influencing consumers. Shoppers in Australia are inclined to spend a considerable amount of time researching and comparing to aggregator/comparison sites. Consumers today also use social media channels to confer and confirm with friends and family prior to making a purchase.

Preferred aggregator, comparison and social media sites vary so brands need to conduct their own research for comparison.

Customer behaviour trends Understanding the specific customer journey is paramount and each market has its unique flavour and customer journeys, that differ across markets and categories, experts say.

Today, many brands are investing in hiring consulting and research firms to identify buyer personas.

For each persona, they track and discover the corresponding customer touchpoints and journey permutations.

Experts emphasise how mapping this customer behaviour is a continual, ongoing process as consumers may have their favourite channels, but sometimes they change subject to recommended feedback from friends and family, especially, the tech-savvy younger generation.

MAPPING THE CUSTOMER JOURNEY – SMARTPHONES AND MARKETING TOUCH-POINTS With the technological landscape becoming more and more diverse, research experts advice that brands need to examine their clients’ habits to identify how they can best utilise these channels to market their their services and new launches.

This research suggest that in today’s market clinics and salons should also research their clients on their social media habits and identify the preferred channels they use to research and gain information on products and services. They may be surprised to find that not everyone is a fan of Facebook.

There is no doubt that communication styles are constantly evolving. Experts suggest that a mix of platforms is always wise, however, there is nothing like researching your own client-base to determine their habits. You know you have got it right when your appointment book is full. APJ

Many of us start and end our day with our smartphones and

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BUSINESSPRACTICES

“Courage is the first virtue that makes all other virtues possible.” — ­­ Aristotle

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AS the CEO of APAN I am always studying and researching on how I can continue to become better at what I do in leading others and the industry. Every business owner needs to be a leader and not just a manager, as there is a difference.

Leaders conceptualise and define the business’s vision, culture, what the business stands for and the position it will hold in the market place. Who are their target clients and how they will provide them with solutions to their problems and give them what they need? Leaders need to also articulate the vision and inspire their staff to own it and benefit themselves and the organisation. They are not afraid to be first to embrace change when it is needed and they communicate clearly to others, why they also need to embrace change.

On the other hand, managers need to possess exceptional skills in putting the vision into policies and procedures and making sure it happens. They need to possess skills to ‘fleshing out’ the vision, giving it form by establishing policies and procedures and feedback and reporting systems to measure performance and ways of continually improving processes.

Every business owner needs to be a leader. They can also be the manager, but as the business grows they can delegate that task to someone else with strong organisational skills

For the courageous leader adversity is a welcoming test. Like a blacksmith’s moulding of a red-hot iron, adversity is a trial by fire that refines leaders and sharpens their game. Adversity emboldens courageous leaders and leaves them more committed to their strategic direction.

Leaders who lack courage simply toe the company line. They follow the safest path — the path of least resistance — because they’d rather cover their backside than lead and grow in the direction that will best meet the needs of the business. Often businesses that struggle and do not get out of their problems will find that the reason they are stuck can come back to one thing — lack of courage to identify and implement the changes that are needed.

2. EFFECTIVE COMMUNICATION “The more elaborate our means of communication, the less we communicate.” — Joseph Priestley Communication is the real work of leadership. It’s a fundamental element of how leaders accomplish their goals each and every day. You simply can’t become a great leader until you are a great communicator.

Great communicators inspire people. They create a connection with their followers that is real, emotional, and person-

BECOMING AN EXCEPTIONAL LEADER

By Tina Viney

who can put systems in place and make sure that staff follow through with them.

Great leadership is indeed a difficult thing to pin down and understand. You know a great leader when you’re working for one, but even they can have a hard time explaining the specifics of what they do that makes their leadership so effective.

Great leadership is dynamic; it blends a variety of unique skills into an integrated whole. Of all my studies on the subject of leadership the attributes below are by far the best that resonated with me. If you can follow these 12 attributes I guarantee you, you will become a great leader.

1. COURAGE “Courage is the first virtue that makes all other virtues possible.” ­­— Aristotle If you don’t possess courage it will be very difficult for you to lead others. Your staff will wait to see if as a leader, you are courageous before they’re willing to follow your lead. People need courage in their leaders. They need someone who can make difficult decisions and watch over the good of the group. They need a leader who will stay the course when things get tough. Your staff are more likely to show courage themselves when they witness you doing the same.

al, regardless of any physical distance between them. Great communicators forge this connection through an understanding of people and an ability to speak directly to their needs in a manner that they are ready to hear.

3. GENEROSITY “A good leader is a person who takes a little more than his share of the blame and a little less than his share of the credit.” — John Maxwell Great leaders are generous. They share credit and offer enthusiastic praise. They’re as committed to their followers’ success as they are to their own. They want to inspire all of their employees to achieve their personal best, not just because it will make the team more successful, but because they care about each person as an individual.

4. HUMILITY “Humility is not thinking less of yourself, it’s thinking of yourself less.” — C.S. Lewis Great leaders are humble. They don’t allow their position of authority to make them feel that they are better than anyone else. As such, they don’t hesitate to jump in and do the dirty work when needed. They won’t ask their followers to do anything they wouldn’t be willing to do themselves.

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5. SELF-AWARENESS

9. AUTHENTICITY

“It is absurd that a man should rule others, who cannot rule himself.” — Latin Proverb

“Just be who you are and speak from your guts and heart – it’s all a person has.” — Hubert Humphrey

Leaders' gaps in self-awareness are rarely due to deceitful, Machiavellian motives, or severe character deficits. In most cases, leaders – like everyone else — view themselves in a more favourable light than other people do.

Authenticity refers to being honest in all things – not just what you say and do, but who you are. When you’re authentic, your words and actions align with who you claim to be.

Your followers shouldn’t be compelled to spend time trying to figure out if you have ulterior motives. Any time they spend doing so erodes their confidence in you and in their ability to execute.Leaders who are authentic are transparent and forthcoming. They aren’t perfect, but they earn people’s respect by walking their talk.

Self-awareness is the foundation of emotional intelligence, a skill that 90% of top performing leaders possess in abundance. Great leaders’ high self-awareness means they have a clear and accurate image, not just of their leadership style, but also of their own strengths and weaknesses. They know where they shine and where they’re weak, and they have effective strategies for compensating for those weaknesses.

6. ADHERENCE TO THE GOLDEN RULE +1 “The way you see people is the way you treat them, and the way you treat them is what they become.” — Jon Wolfgang von Goethe The Golden Rule — treat others as you want to be treated — assumes that all people are the same. It assumes that, if you treat your followers the way you would want a leader to treat you, they’ll be happy. It ignores that people are motivated by vastly different things. One person loves public recognition, while another loathes being the centre of attention.

Great leaders don’t treat people how they themselves want to be treated. Instead, they take the Golden Rule a step further and treat each person as he or she would like to be treated. Great leaders learn what makes people tick, recognise their needs in the moment, and adapt their leadership style accordingly.

7. PASSION “If you just work on stuff that you like and are passionate about, you don’t have to have a master plan with how things will play out.” — Mark Zuckerberg Passion and enthusiasm are contagious. So are boredom and apathy. No one wants to work for a boss that’s unexcited about his or her job, or even one who’s just going through the motions. Great leaders are passionate about what they do, and they strive to share that passion with everyone around them.

8. INFECTIOUSNESS “The very essence of leadership is that you have to have a vision.

It’s got to be a vision you articulate clearly and forcefully on every occasion. You can’t blow an uncertain trumpet.” — Reverend Theodore Hesburgh Great leaders know that having a clear vision isn’t enough.

You have to make that vision come alive so that your followers can see it just as clearly as you do. Great leaders do that by telling stories and painting verbal pictures so that everyone can understand not just where they’re going, but what it will look and feel like when they get there. This inspires others to internalise the vision and make it their own.

10. BEING APPROACHABLE “Management is like holding a dove in your hand. Squeeze too hard and you kill it, not hard enough and it flies away.” — Tommy Lasorda Great leaders make it clear that they welcome challenges, criticism, and viewpoints other than their own. They know that an environment where people are afraid to speak up, offer insight, and ask good questions is destined for failure.

By ensuring that they are approachable, great leaders facilitate the flow of great ideas throughout the organisation.

11. ACCOUNTABILITY “The ancient Romans had a tradition: Whenever one of their engineers constructed an arch, as the capstone was hoisted into place, the engineer assumed accountability for his work in the most profound way possible: He stood under the arch.” — Michael Armstrong Great leaders have their followers’ backs. They don’t try to shift blame, and they don’t avoid shame when they fail.

They’re no afraid to say, “The buck stops here,” and they earn people’s trust by backing them up.

12. SENSE OF PURPOSE “You don’t lead by pointing and telling people some place to go.

You lead by going to that place and making a case.” — Ken Kesey Whereas vision is a clear idea of where you’re going, a sense of purpose refers to an understanding of why you’re going there. People like to feel like they’re part of something bigger than themselves. Great leaders give people that feeling.

BRINGING IT ALL TOGETHER Becoming a great leader doesn’t mean that you have to incorporate all of these traits at once. Focus on one or two at a time; each incremental improvement will make you more effective. Life is a learning process for all of us. It’s okay if you act some of these qualities at first until they become part of you and second nature. The more you practice, the more instinctive it will become and the more you’ll internalise your new leadership style that will define you.

We never stop growing — that’s what makes life interesting. I am constantly looking at ways to continue to grow and hopefully inspire others as well. APJ Ref. Travis Bradberry – 12 Habits of Exceptional leaders

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SOCIALMEDIA

FIVE MOST COMMON BLOGGING MISTAKES PEOPLE MAKE

By Trish Hammond — Plastic Surgeons Hub WHEN I tell people I blog for a living they think I’ve got the easiest job in the world. That I sit in my pyjamas at home and blurt out whatever I feel like rambling about at that particular moment. But that’s not how it works. To use blogging as a tool that will help your business grow, takes vision, insight, understanding about the market, your customers, what makes a blog Google friendly and many other little tricks.

Otherwise, you’ll just be sending content into the stratosphere of the internet where it will be lucky to be read, or be of any use to you or your business.

So, I want to give you the five most common blogging mistakes that people make and how to avoid them.

1. Your blogs don’t have a purpose All blogs should have a bigger picture in mind. Even if they’re of a light hearted, casual or fun-natured, they should ultimately direct the reader to your business e.g. you might write about the problems of hairy legs during summer, but you should also indirectly promote a special on laser for hair removal in your clinic.

The trick is to identify what you are trying to promote, who your customers are and find an entertaining angle to write from. Identify the purpose of your blog before you start writing so that it has a clearer direction.

2. You’re not writing to your target market Surgeons, clinics and businesses in the aesthetics industry are passionate people. But sometimes they forget that their target market, or potential patients or clients, don’t understand all the industry lingo. If you’re trying to communicate the value of a particular treatment or procedure, you need to remember that the general public don’t know all the technical talk, or care much about the subtle differences in how a laser works — for them it’s more about what results they can get. You’ll probably lose them if you ramble about how important it is to target the subcutaneous layers of your fat instead of the other layers and so forth. While a bit of information about a procedure or treatment is good, too much can bog the blog down.

Keep it light, entertaining, but remember your purpose and know your audience.

3. Layout, Layout, Layout Readers get drawn in by a catchy title, then the first paragraph. They don’t like long, rambling blogs without pauses or a break. Images are good. Short paragraphs and short senteneses are essential, and sub-headings with promise or interest help to make a blog user-friendly. Google will reward you for a well-laid-out blog, so make it your priority to learn how a blog should look visually to draw in, and keep your target audience.

4. Your blog is too “self-promoting” Obviously, your goal is ultimately to direct readers to your business and increase clients. But people generally don’t like feeling as though they are being “sold to” or want to read a page of business promotion. It’s more about highlighting something that they can relate to and suggesting what you can do for them.

Talking about a topic that addresses a problem or an issue a reader might have and then, how you might be able to help them with that problem is going to be more successful than listing your qualifications, awards and other allocations. People’s eyes and ears glaze over when they hear too obvious self-promotion.

5. Not knowing what SEO is What is Search Engine Optimisation? This is knowing what keywords or phrases people are going to be searching for.

Being “clever” is not necessarily being too witty or standing out from the crowd with a super unique title that no one is going to think to search for. There are also rules to follow when it comes to headings, sub-headings, content in the first paragraph, etc. Knowing these rules will go a long way to your blog being read by the greater masses and appearing higher in a Google search someone might do. Do your research. Find out what keywords and urls are and get aware of the basics of good blogging.

These are just some of the main mistakes that rookie bloggers make. I know it was a huge learning curve for me to realise that just because I wrote something and put it on a website, this would automatically mean people would read it. It’s definitely not as easy as most people think. APJ Contact Trish 0429 264 811, info@plasticsurgeryhub.com

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BUSINESSCOLLABORATION

ARE YOU TAKING NEW BOOMING

by Miesha Marie THE industry is slowly reaching saturation point as more and more salons and clinics are providing laser and IPL services. The competition is becoming progressively more fierce as businesses are seeking to attract new clients and to ensure their services â&#x20AC;&#x153;stand-outâ&#x20AC;? for their uniqueness.

So what is your competitive advantage? How can you provide additional services that meet with client expectations and provide a more comprehensive solution to their needs?

In this article Miesha Marie discusses the rising wellness boom and how businesses can effectively incorporate wellness strategies to retain their existing client with additional services, as well as attract new ones. She brings great clarity to how expert naturopathic care can help improve not just skin treatment outcomes, but also support overall health and wellbeing.

Why are clients visiting complementary health practitioners?

This is a question I am asked more and more, particularly by those who doubt the veracity and the efficacy of complementary medicine. Those that are skeptics through ignorance refute the very idea that complementary healthcare can provide a worthwhile and dynamic contribution to improving client care, while also ignoring the fundamental potential for

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business growth. The fact that complementary health does heal, that it does have a valid role to play alongside traditional medicine and allied healthcare, and more importantly, that clients themselves are seeking these services should be enough reason to examine the option of what this modality can offer. There is little suggestion of persuasion, only that consumers are seeking for a more personalised health-centric, client-practitioner approach is now becoming a growing trends bringing with it exciting possibilities for both treatment solutions and business development.

THE SCOPE OF PRACTICE OF A NATUROPATH There seems to be a lot of misconception about naturopathy â&#x20AC;&#x201D; what it can and cannot do, so I am outlining a brief summary to help bring some clarity to this matter.

We initially evaluate our clients through a thorough case history analysis where we investigate the current health status to determine deficiencies. Once these are assessed we implement treatment strategies through a client-specific, targeted program. A qualified naturopath will take a scientific approach, based on evidence-based research in both clinical applications and products. Of course, as with any profession, a complementary health provider must work within the scope of their qualification and industry guidelines.

ADVANTAGE OF THE CONSUMER TREND? Dip BTh, Dip Naturopathy It is important that you ensure the practitioner you introduce to your clients is qualified and registered with the appropriate healthcare body. A naturopath cannot obtain insurance, or HICAPS provider status without these. This is an essential element of their practice as naturopaths typically more often than not, see clients with difficult, or complex cases.

NATUROPATHY AND THE BENEFITS OF PARTNERING COMPLEMENTARY HEALTH WITH AESTHETICS There are several benefit for such a collaboration however, the most important is that through this modality we are able to target any underlying systemic imbalances that may be causing or, contributing to the skin complaints. The combination of naturopathic care and practical aesthetic treatment options can render a much better treatment outcome.

By providing a collaborative approach to the treatment plan, utilising naturopathic expertise in partnership with your aesthetic disciplines you are offering your clients a more comprehensive approach.

Additionally, extending services with this multi-disciplinary approach will attract new clients who are more likely to favour skin improvement with a wellness approach.

EXPLORING THE SKIN-MANAGEMENT AXIS If you want to be known as a skin expert you will encounter some more difficult conditions. To achieve positive outcomes, it’s not enough that we simply look to target the skin from one angle. A much more comprehensive treatment strategy is required, particularly when addressing persistent, problematic skin conditions. As such, we really must consider the skin as an organ and bring together the knowledge that enables us to treat the skin, literally from the inside-out.

SKIN-MANAGEMENT AXIS: FUNDAMENTALS Here are some fundamentals we need to consider when taking this approach.

• We will need to examine what we directly put into the skin, on the skin and do to the skin • Identify co-contributing factors and what role they play in driving further systemic disease • Maximise the full spectrum of health and wellness by promoting a balanced and supportive treatment approach • The synchronicity of all key three axis points, and why each is equally as critical for optimum skin health and ageing • Target contributing factors of underlying root causes of

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imbalances and ill-health, not simply the resulting symptoms By taking such an approach we can substantially enhance clinical outcomes for clients on various levels. Let’s now take a closer look at each of the skin-management axis points that we need to consider: Axis #1: What we put INTO the skin • Nutrition — dietary options and moderation • Water — other liquid intake, caffeine, alcohol etc, • Supplements — vitamins, minerals, herbal formulas • Drugs and pharmaceuticals — prescription, OTC or recreational drugs Axis #2: What we put ON the skin • Skincare products: professional and personal care that are applied to the skin • Prescriptive approach taking into considerations additional information • Recommend the right products for each stage of their treatment plan • Explain to client action plan of the products and appropriate us Axis #3: What we DO to the skin • Primarily mechanical, professional services • Advanced techniques • Dedicated skin program • Pre and post-care • Environmental influence • Sun exposure considerations • Client responsibility (outside of professional care) • Identifying the collaborative clinical role and strategies of the aesthetician working with the naturopath Co-contributing factors • Sleep: quality, consistency, environment • Movement: fitness, exercise, capacity, body composition, active vs sedentary • Relaxation: stress management, fun • Psychology: mindset, happy ageing • Client responsibility vs practitioner’s role Any or all of these might have an important role to play.

In summary, let’s look at the client and business benefits in establishing a collaborative partnership, how do you go about establishing this professional relationship and how do you implement it? What are the client and business benefits?

Client advantage include: • Build trust and confidence: a more comprehensive approach to treatment • Greater depth of support available to address other underlying issues • Qualified expert: professional advice vs unqualified advice APJ 120

• Complete health review: a full health (aesthetic health) assessment, coupled with targeted advice • Identify and addressing key systemic issues that may require specific consideration.

Business advantage: • Stream-lined professional services delivered side-by-side • Enhanced treatment outcomes • Client loyalty: customer satisfaction, build rapport and trust • Enhance reputation • Competitive advantage: point of difference (ahead of competitors, both direct and indirect, real-world and online).

• Additional revenue source • Possibility of building a health and wellness treatment ‘arm’: expanding the business • Seizing opportunity of booming health and wellness trend

ESTABLISHING YOUR NICHE Understanding how to build rock-solid, trustworthy relationships with your clients requires some practical exploration and investigation. If you truly desire giving exemplary customer service you need to consider building your professional client-relationships as you would with a friend: get to know them and research their needs to gain a better understanding on what is important to them.

Identify why your clients are coming to you? Is this based upon economic reasons, scarcity reasons, geographical availability, or because you are offering a specialised service? Are they perceiving you as a market leader? What are their needs and wants and how are they changing? You must understand this so that your business can differentiate itself from your competitors.

Are you meeting with the evolving client expectation. These are not static. As a problem gets solved the need to resolve another issue may arise. Have you identified this and do you have a plan to resolve those issues? Quite simply, you need to fully understand your client, not just their priorities, but also underlying issues so that you can create appropriate solutions for them? Just because they have addressed one problem with you does not mean that is their only concern.

Remember that with a service-based business your role is to facilitate and provide on-going solutions for your client.

Too many businesses think first about themselves as their primary motivation and forget that their business success will ultimately be determined by how effective they are in providing solutions for their clients’ needs.

By determining and completing a client avatar, this will allow you to build a substantial profile that can detail your clients’ motivations and expectations. Here, you will be able to discern vital clues that can enable you to better position your business product and services so that they best matches their needs. As you better understand your client you will be in a strong position to determine how your business can adapt and change to attract the clients you most want to work with.

As a business owner, or aesthetic practitioner, it’s important to be happy with the work that you do. There’s no shame in admitting to wanting to build on the client portfolio that you most desire. Your satisfaction, or dissatisfaction will always filter across to those you communicate and associate with, most especially clients.

By having a deeper understanding of your clients as people (alongside of their reasons for seeking your services) means you have an immediate advantage: you can better cutthrough, directly to the heart of their concerns.

As such, you will be able to better meet their expectations, and to provide more achievable, long-lasting outcomes.

FORMALISING THE COLLABORATION There are several ways a business could negotiate their strategic partnership with a qualified naturopath. These can be through a contracting of services, or perhaps a commission-based sales arrangement. Other options are through the renting, or leasing of available rooms that you may have.

Other important considerations you should include: • Identify where your business sits in the spectrum of services. Are you predominantly offering beauty or grooming services, or are you focused on skin treatments?

Wherever you fall, there’ll be an opportunity to establish client programs and to develop health and wellness products and/or services.

• Identify how the collaboration would work to improve client outcomes.

• Determine how this collaboration would look like in your business. From this you can design and plan how you can visually and strategically introduce the concept to your clients. This must be done within the appropriate regulatory guidelines that relate to healthcare practitioners.

DEVELOPING PROGRAMS When determining the development of a structured health program for your clients there are several models that you can consider. Identify which program model would be best suited to your business?

• Tailored: This is one that is tailored to the specifics of the individual client. This model will allow you to establish baseline measurements and determine the best course of treatment for them.

• Targeted: Addresses specific disease/disorders, or skin conditions and promote expert support towards solutions.

• Group: Designed with larger audience in mind. This model is more educational and covers broader topical overview, for example educating you clients on useful strategies for a ‘Summer Skin Detox’ or addressing “Cellulite”.

• Branded: Consider you would review your company philosophy and brand identity and incorporate your unique

• ‘selling point’ that reflects your values, for example Pete Evans and the Paleo Diet.

So how do you decide which health, wellness, and/or lifestyle program would best meet your clients’ needs? If you are unsure I recommend that you test the options with your clients. You can do this through a survey that incorporates question for your clients to answer. On a less-formal basis you can individually ask your clients what they would prefer and determine preferences.

IMPLEMENTING YOUR PROGRAM For any program to be successful, there are a number of factors to consider: • Evaluate business objectives: How will a program add value to your clients and your business? What type of program would be best suited to your business?

• Design your programs with your ideal client-base in mind: Highly-targeted demographics to attract the client/audience you wish to work with (whether this will advance your current client-base, or attract your ideal client demographic).

• Where appropriate, market programs as a package: Do you want to include treatment and product packages or keep these two separate?

• How will you promote the benefits of treatment outcomes to your client? What medium will you use to communicate?

Discretional consumer spending is down. In this economic climate when we tighten our spending accessory luxuries are usually the first to go. How do your clients view your services, as a luxury, or a necessity? The more beneficial it will be for them the higher up it will be positioned on their priority list.

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Diversification of your product and service offerings can also buffer you against any further downward trends in spending. Your clients should see you as the only option, they should value your expertise and your product and/or service as being exactly what they value and need.

The market for digital content is there — a significant audience is already paying your competitors to purchase products, services and information online that you already sell.

When promoting your business will you be using digital or service-based products? It is now most important than ever for your business to offer both!

They will purchase from you if you understand who your client/audience are and can target their pain-problems, by offering them appropriate solutions. It’s simple, but not easy: understanding the tactics involved in strategic digital marketing.

DIGITAL MARKETING

AUDIT YOUR DIGITAL ASSETS

The ‘digital world’ has already sprinted ahead when it comes to health and wellness, including beauty and aesthetics. Are you in the race? Do you as a practitioner and business owner want to be considered cutting-edge, or are you willing to be left behind? This is no longer a maybe. Consumers now have an expectation of value — they expect a high level of service, education and expert knowledge and skill. This will play a part in their decision-making process, in determining whether you can be trusted you need to also present them with a social proof and this should be supported by a strong digital footprint that promotes that you have the expertise and confidence to deliver what you say. Can you compete at this level? Don’t restrict access to your qualified information and services, consider having content and revenue opportunities available 24/7 through on-line platforms.

By knowing where your business is presently positioned in the market, you can then take measurable steps to move in the desired direction and to plan for future growth.

It’s not simply about talking ‘at’ your clients/audience, but about building a relationship with them and demonstrating to them that you intimately understand their deepest needs, their pains and their reasons for taking action. By doing this, trust is established, and they’re more likely to recognise that you can help them, so they will be more willing to invest with you.

YOU CAN’T SIMPLY ‘BUILD IT’ AND EXPECT THEM TO COME

•Assess your digital footprint — what does the internet say about you and your business when you search?

• Review of digital assets (website, copy/content, social media channels, online advertising) • What is the potential for additional revenue: diversify beyond your current maximum revenue limit of the service-based model (consider the percentage of people you’re currently capable of seeing in a day vs with a 24/7 digital portal) • Client engagement: Determine your communication channel and your business voice • Strategic promotion and marketing: there are so many avenues available, that it’s essential to know which promotional and marketing strategy would best move you towards meeting your business objectives.

WELLNESS REVOLUTION: THE FACTS

There are billions of people online, of which a percentage are your ideal niche client/audience. To target in and ‘speak’ to this unique audience there are very specific tools and strategies required. Here is where a partnership with a digital strategic expert, one who understands the aesthetics industry, can work with you to help design and build your businesses digital assets.

The statistics are very clear. The wellness industry in Australia is estimated at 1.3 billion dollars annually. The market is already well established and supported with consumers accessing products, services and supplements with a well-document consumer attitude constantly moving towards a culture of prioritising issues that support health.

The digital environment is complex. Positioning of your business requires you to know your audience so that you can create your individual communication style — your voice.

For this you will need to further, consider:

This demand for health and wellness solutions is now progressively spilling into the aesthetic arena and the astute business owners are capitalising on this growing trends by incorporating solutions within their business model.

• How consumers (especially your ideal client/audience) are using the internet to get the information they want (how are they consuming the information)

Let’s be honest, the public by and large is becoming more and more consumed with their appearance. This is not necessarily a bad thing. They’re spending an ever-increasing amount of both time and money to not just look good, but also feel good with the continued demand for ‘wellness’ products rising at an exponential rate.

• Your ‘audience’ does not have to be limited by geography (you’re not restricted to those only local to you) • Scale your pre-existing service model into digital format • Consider that a percentage of consumers will purchase online if you make your goods and services available to them • Develop your signature program: your unique selling proposition • You have an opportunity to compete in the digital market as the expert you are • Cast a wider net: the global audience

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As an aesthetics business, why ignore this? Take advantage of the amazing new growth opportunities that will not only best service your clients, but also support a robust growth tho your business. APJ

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OxyDerm’s® unique interaction between the capsule and the treatment gel creates abundance of CO2 on the skin that triggers the Bohr Effect which oxygenates the skin, naturally. APJ

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Advanced Technology Pty Ltd

www.aesthetictechnolgy.com.au APJ 123

The Highest Professional Standards now has a New Name As the Aesthetics industry continues to advance so has the need to identify its leading practitioners through a new Standards Recognition Registration Classification.

APAN REGISTERED AESTHETICS PRACTITIONERÂŽ (ARAP)

Is the new industry Registration. Applicants will be assessed on their qualifications, knowledge, skills and standards. Industry professionals are invited to apply for Registration.

There are five Registration Classifications:

] Registered Aesthetics Practitioner Clinician ] Registered Aesthetics Practitioner ] Registered Aesthetics Practitioner Associate ] Registered Aesthetics Practitioner Master Educator ] Registered Aesthetics Practitioner Educator

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APAN

PRACTITIO N

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Who can apply:

ARAP

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Dermal Clinicians Dermal Therapists Cosmetic Nurses Skin Therapists Aesthetic Practitioners Educators A Quality Assurance Officer will assess each application on their qualifications and merits and determine eligibility.

APPLY TODAY For further information visit www.apanetwork.com and complete an ARAP Online Application Form.

If you require further details please phone APAN 07 5593 0360.