Leaders in Education
Summer Volume 45 2020
Aesthetics Practitioners Journal is the official publication of the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network PTY LTD.
Bridging the gap between makeup and skincare.
APJ 1
C os met i c La s e r R e s u r f a c i n g , I P L and R a d i o f r e q u e n c y f o r A d v anc ed S k i n R e j u ve n a t i o n Lynton 3JUVE ® is an entirely customisable treatment that brings together the most indemand skin rejuvenation technologies in one stand-alone platform. Unlike any other device; the Lynton 3JUVE ® will give you the ultimate competitive advantage in your business. The only affordable system with true ablative laser technology, combined with a medical-grade IPL and a multi-polar Radio Frequency handpiece, this powerful, compact device allows you to target all of the most common signs of ageing, and deliver
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Lynton now partnering with Professional Beauty Solutions.
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the most advanced skin rejuvenation results in a safe and efficient way.
Take your business to the next level with 3JUVE® advanced anti-ageing treatments Three highly effective handpieces to offer over 20 separate revenue streams for your business including:
• Lines & Wrinkles
• Pigmentation
• Port Wine Stains
• Acne Pitting
• Age Spots
• Spider Naevi
• Surgical & Traumatic Scars
• Sun Damage
• Campbell De Morgan Spots
• Stretch Marks
• Freckles
• Telangiectasia
• Skin Laxity
• Vascular Lesions
• Poikiloderma Of Civatt
• Uneven Skin Texture
• Rosacea
• Milia
• Enlarged Pores
• Congestion & Acne
• Skin Rejuvenation
The Lynton Clinic
The Lynton Clinic
CL I N I C AL LY PROVEN R E SU LT S W I T H 3J U VE ®
AF T ER
B EFO R E
AF T ER
B EFO R E
AF T ER
B EFO R E
AF T ER
B EFO R E
AF T ER
B EFO R E
AF T ER
Jade’s Salon
The Lynton Clinic
Laser Skin Solutions
Christine Clarke Clinic
B EFO R E
For information call 1800 625 387 or visit WWW.LYNTONLASERS.COM.AU
IN THIS ISSUE SUMMER VOLUME 45. 2020 REGULATIONS, STANDARDS AND EDUCATION
54
22-23
BRING ON SKIN AGE MANAGEMENT
27
THE POWER OF KNOWLEDGE
68-69
PANDEMIC INFECTION CONTROL PROGRAM
74-75
SCIENTIFIC RESEARCH, TREATMENTS AND TECHNOLOGY 24-26
SKIN SENSITIVITY - CAUSES & TREATMENTS
38-39
THE CHARM AND BENEFITS OF ROSE GERANIUM
40-41
EXAMINING THE PATHOGENIC MECHANISM OF BACTERIA UNDER THE MICROSCOPE
50-51
TATTOOS & PIERCING: A TIMELESS PRACTICE AND ITS RISKS
76-77
UNCOVERING THE BENEFITS OF HELICHRYSUM ESSENTIAL OIL
50
88-90
RADIO-FREQUENCY AND ITS EFFECTS ON SKIN REJUVENATION
TRADITIONAL RETINOLS AND GREEN OPTIONS
87
THE CONCISE GUIDE TO DERMAL NEEDLING 91 ARE YOUR DOCUMENTS LEGALLY COMPLIANT AND UP-TO-DATE?
58
92-95
ANTI-AGEING AND THE EMERGING PHILOSOPHY OF POSITIVE AGEING
96-97
FIVE IMPORTANT FACTS ABOUT RETINOL
98-99
VITAMIN C IN THE SPOTLIGHT
BUSINESS, PERSONAL AND PROFESSIONAL DEVELOPMENT 18-21
58-59
28-29
78-79
SURVIVAL STORIES AND TIPS DURING COVID-19 ADVANCED NUTRITION PROGRAM
34
MONITORING YOUR PROFITS
56
IS YOUR DIGITAL MARKETING UP TO SCRATCH AND READY FOR A SUCCESSFUL 2021?
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80-81 RISK & CHALLENGES - THE EMERGING LANDSCAPE OF COSMETIC TATTOOING
SECURITY AND CYBER PROTECTION THE POWER OF COMPASSION AND HOW TO AVOID BURN-OUT
96
INDUSTRY REPORTS, NEWS, PRODUCTS AND COSMETIC MEDICINE 8-9
62-66
10-13
70-73
36-37
82-86
CEO’S REPORT COVER STORY GLOBAL BEAUTY SUMMIT
42
NON-SURGICAL SYMPOSIUM 2.1 REIMAGINED
48-49
APAN AESTHETICS ONLINE CONFERENCE 2021
AESTHETIC BULLETIN
PRODUCT INNOVATIONS
BUSINESS TIPS
100-105
SCIENTIFIC NEWS
Editor Dr Giulia D’Anna (07) 5593 0360 editor@apanetwork.com www.apanetwork.com
Printed For Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network ACN: 136 987 169 ABN: 25 136 987 169
Typesetting & Graphics Angus Thompson Georgia Shelby TEV Group Pty Ltd
Accounts Payable Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network PO Box 5448, Q Super Centre QLD 4218
Advertising & Marketing Tina Viney Phone: (07) 5593 0360 info@apanetwork.com Fax:(07) 5593 0367 Mobile: 0412 177 423 Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network PO Box 5448, Q Super Centre QLD 4218 Australia Publisher TEV Group Pty Ltd Design & Production Artwork and Editorial TEV Group Pty Ltd Unit 7D 76-84 Robina Town Centre Drive, Robina QLD 4226 Australia Phone: (07) 5593 0360 info@apanetwork.com Mobile: 0412 177 423
Journal Advisory Board Terry Everitt - Education Features Wendy Neely - PR and Marketing Dr Douglas Grose Scientific Content National Advisory Council John Fergusson Terry Everitt Chris Testa Gill Fish Carole Jackson Julia Grinberg ISSN: 1836-9812 Pint Post Approved [100000257] Circulation 6900
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Leaders in Education
Summer Volume 45 2020
Front Cover ISSADA 07 3904 2288 issada.com/partners For further information see pages 10-13
Aesthetics Practitioners Journal is the official publication of the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network PTY LTD.
Bridging the gap between makeup and skincare.
APJ 1
The Aesthetics Practitioners Journal is the official publication of the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd, a network organisation established to service the needs of the aesthetics industry in the area of professional development and business networking. The Aesthetics Practitioners Journal is published quarterly for the benefit of its members and subscribers and aims to inform and educate its members on better business practices and industry advancements. All editorials and articles that are submitted for publishing remain the property of Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd. Reproduction in part or in whole is not permitted without prior written authorisation by the publishers. Every effort has been made to ensure that all scientific and technical information presented is as accurate as possible at the time of publishing. However, members and readers are highly recommended to also seek external advice from their accountant, registered financial adviser or healthcare professional for their recommendations. APJ 5
Dr Giulia D’Anna
EDITOR’S LETTER Wow - What a year! We started with extreme bushfires, pollution and a crisis on the fireravaged areas of Australia. Shortly after COVID-19 started to rear its head. There was so much uncertainty about what the virus was, what it meant for us as individuals and for our businesses. We all went through the first lockdowns, with panic-buying and fear. Coming out of the first lockdown, we began to have a little more clarity about what the virus was, the effects it was having and how to look after ourselves. We navigated through that time and looked hopeful to our future. Soon after, Victoria faced a harsh and long lockdown again. We have seen the US election campaign unfold, the Black Lives Matter movement and the unrest that occurred for some time overseas. I think that this movement made us all take a look at ourselves, our way of life and the lives of those around us too. Meanwhile the Victorian Lockdown continued, with much lobbying by APAN behind the scenes, to get the industry moving again.
Coming out of lockdown in Victoria, we started to flourish as more and more services were opening up again. And finally, Christmas is upon us with the hope of a successful COVID vaccine in the meantime. And again, as a leading industry body, APAN has taken a faithful stride forward. There are a number of educational pathways being offered, with the most important being the PAN001 Pandemic Infection Control education. This is a self-regulation program that we hope will be seen as an important stride forward to keep the skin industry abreast with virus control, particularly at this important time before a vaccine is released. Through this Uber turbulent year, I have seen amazing hope, strength and unity as we stood together to face the future. So many of us used the lockdowns to re-organise and re-educate ourselves in new techniques and treatments. I have gained great inspiration through so many of you. It is so wonderful to see the strides everyone has been able to make given the challenges and setbacks we have all faced. I encourage you all to undertake the APAN infection control course that focuses on the pathophysiology and prevention in the spread of COVID-19 and beyond. I feel that this will be empowering and important step forward in showing the government as well as the medical community that we are implementing self-regulation and high standards. I truly believe that 2021 will certainly be an interesting year as we move forward with greater tools and confidence. I look forward to meeting you in person at the upcoming planned APAN conferences. What a delight it will be to attend a live event, connect, learn and grow together. I hope that you invest in your own education and support APAN in their fight to support the industry by undertaking the infection control course that has been set up in a bid to maintain a high standard. 2021 will certainly be a year of growth and I am so excited to go on this journey with all my skin friends! Together we can face the future with courage and confidence.
editor@apanetwork.com www.apanetwork.com APJ 6
APJ Contributers
Terry Everitt
Katherine McCann
Gay Wardle
Terry Everitt is regarded as a ‘Master Skincare Professional’ due to his extensive knowledge in the art and science of skincare. A very competent educator and regular lecturer on aesthetic and medical conferences where he presents up-to-date information from an evidence-based scientific perspective. Terry is the Director of Aesthetic Educators Pty Ltd.
Katherine McCann has moved to her new dual position within APAN. Her new title will now be Regulations and Standards Advisor and Press and Media Liaison. Additionally, Katherine will continue to contribute to APJ through articles on Cosmetic Tattooing as this is an area in which she is truly an expert.
Gay Wardle is a well-known multiawarding winning industry expert and a renowned lecturer who conducts advanced skin analysis training for businesses and their staff on all issue pertaining to skin science.
aestheticeducators@gmail.com.
Jacine GreenwoodDrummond Jacine Greenwood is an internationally recognised educator who is known within the industry for her up-to-date knowledge and her ability to deliver training in an easy to understand method. Jacine holds six Diplomas, including a Diploma of Cosmetic Chemistry and a Bachelor of Nursing. Her knowledge is highly respected in the cosmetic industry. With over 22 years experience in the industry and a background of cosmetic formulation, Jacine has an immense knowledge of current trends in research and new developments in the industry.
0418 708 455 gay@gaywardle.com.au.
0405 069 311 k_mccann@me.com
Deb Farnworth-Wood
Trish Hammond
We are delighted to welcome Deb Farnworth-Wood as our new business expert. Deb will be sharing her wealth of knowledge in each issue of APJ.Her column - Wisdom in Business will present valuable, business-boosting tips. Deb is a leading figurehead and business development expert with amazing achievements, also within our industry. She has an incredible reputation as a serial entrepreneur. Expect to gain winning strategies from this amazing woman.
Trish Hammond is an award-winning blog and social media expert and the director of Plastic Surgery Hub. She is renowned for her skilful writing and interviews in all facets of the social media space. Her company specialises in the Aesthetics, Cosmetic Surgery and Cosmetic Medicine industry sectors for which she provides personalised and comprehensive services to help businesses communicate powerfully, grow their brand and capture new clients and patients.
deb@ultimateskinandbody.com.au
0429 264 811 info@plasticsurgeryhub.com.au.
07 3807 1429 jacine@roccoco.com.au. APJ 7
CEO’S REPORT
Tina Viney APAN CEO
Dear Colleagues and Friends, I AM SURE YOU WOULD AGREE that it would be an understatement to say that this has been an intersting year. Shell-shocked by the events that transpired have created an environment for all of us to re-evaluate our own reality in moving forward. While some have stepped up and maximised their productivity during the pandemic others did not do so well, either way, please forgive yourself if you didn’t reach your full potential. What matters are the lessons learned and the wisdom we have gleaned from this experience. I am aware that many have been also soul searching and gaining a clearer understanding of what is important to them, evaluating their direction for their future and what will best serve them. While for some, growth is on the horizon, others are seeking to downsize. Coming to the end of the year, what will your new chapter be in 2021? You've had over 10 months to adjust to current circumstances. Whatever your circumstances happen to be, they're yours. I can't change them for you. Nobody can move the needle except you. So, how do you make sure that you will have a better year in 2021? To help you determine this let me share with you some of my own thought processes that have helped me. First, take a bit of time to reflect on how the year went. Analyse your behaviour, how you reacted to the circumstances you either found yourself in, or were forced on you, your mindset, your goals (or lack thereof), your wins, your losses, obstacles, missed opportunities - all of it. Today might be a good day to take out a journal and just reflect on everything. I'm going to do that myself over the summer break as I examine what has happened to me and how I can show up in 2021 and be more effective and purposeful in what I do. After you've taken the time to think about how the past year or so has gone, understand that it's in the past. It's over. Done with. You're never going to move onto a better future if you stay trapped in the past. Instead, use your past as a stepping stone to a stronger future.
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RE-WRITE YOUR STORY You can see the past through a variety of lenses. Often, we use the past as a way to re-live our trauma, further solidifying an identity we don't want. I believe that it is important that we examine the past, both achievements and regrets, but one discipline I am putting into place is to evaluate, learn the lesson and never look back – let it go! My focus must be to look at how I can move forward and support the industry to survive and become stronger. In this issue of APJ we featured the stories of some of wonderful women who are part of our community of practice. They shared their stories on how they coped and what worked for them during this turbulent year. Please check this report on pages 18-21. Reflecting on their experiences I found a few common threads that contributed to their success and achievements. However, the strongest and most consistent was their focus and efforts in helping others. This has also been my experience. When I focus my energy on helping others, the strength that I master to help them rises and sustains me as well. I am sure this is also your reality, so I want to encourage you to continue to refine those skills of compassion, care and understanding – we all need these more then ever in our current turbulent world. Moving forward, re-frame everything that's happened to you. Not just in 2020, but in your entire life as a whole. To get re-framing to work, you have to do drop habits that no longer serve you and determine the disciplines that you wish to become routine for you. Mine has been to not dwell on what is wrong with this world – it’s too traumatic. My deliberate focus will be on how my contribution can help create a better world. We should be the masters of our own story, but to change our life we have to change our narrative. Here are some thought processes I am putting in place to help me: •
Events don't happen to us, they happen for us We won't feel this way in the moment when certain events happen to us, but learning to see all events as useful to us, even if they're bad, will train us to focus on growth instead of ruminating.
•
Closed doors equal open windows - Even if it's not objectively true, take rejection and opportunities that didn't go your way as a sign that you were meant for something different, something better.
“GET READY TO RISE UP ! DEFEAT IS NOT AN OPTION” - Tina Viney •
What doesn't kill you makes you stronger - You're still here. This point is a bit of a combination of the first two points. We need to come to terms with the fact that life will always have shades of darkness as well as light. Looking back, I am a stronger person and better able to cope because of the choices I have made to stay focused on solutions. If you are still standing, I am sure you can say the same thing.
SETTING YOUR GOALS FOR 2021 In his best-selling book, The 7 Habits of Highly Effective People, Steven Covey coined the phrase 'begin with the end in mind' and that is a wise way to start planning for a better year ahead. If you want something to happen, you have to start with what you want to happen and reverse engineer to the present moment to get there. You have to see yourself winning before you actually win and trust the process along the way, even if you don’t exactly know 'how' you're going to get there. So, begin with the end in mind, right now. What would need to happen for you to feel that 2021 would be a major win? Imagine yourself a year from now, what has to change for you to be that person? Picture yourself at the end of 2021 reaching the benchmark you need to reach to feel like you're making progress. Start with your personal life – how would you like to see your health improve, your mental and emotional fortitude strengthened. Establish goals for these first, then move to your professional and business goals. Picture it, journal it and set the strategies that can help you get there. WHEN YOU ARE PRIMED TO SEE OPPORTUNITIES – THEY WILL FIND YOU Neuroscience tells us that when you don't have any intention to the way we live our lives, opportunities will fly right by us without we even noticing them. But when you're intentionally trying to improve your life and you picture the things you want to happen, your focus will help you identify when these opportunities show up and you will be able to seize them and shape your story. As an industry body, our focus must also be on what outcome we have in mind. At this present time, the issue of safety and survival are the industry’s top priorities. So, whatever we plan must have those key objectives. Here are a few key strategies that we delivered this year:
•
PAN001 PANDEMIC INFECTION CONTROL this program has stepped up from our COVID CLINICAL SAFETY POLICY KIT as a self-regulation initiative to position the industry with evidence-based safety measures that we can take to the Government and fight for you.
•
RESOURCE DOCUMENTS – Confidence comes from compliance and a strong business and professional identity. This year we updated our resource documents helping business streamline their operations with greater compliance.
•
WEBSITE FOR CONSUMERS – We launched two new websites to direct consumers to you with greater ease. Please register your business as this is free for you. These websites will be supported by an ongoing media campaign to help educate them on what you offer and how they can benefit from you.
These are just three of the many targeted initiatives that we supported the industry. We are already starting to plan 2021 with some exciting new developments. We can’t afford to be static and your needs are what determines our plans as this is our duty-of-care to you. As we come to the end of a year our team join me to wish you a peaceful, happy and Merry Christmas. May you find time to spend quality time with your loved ones. Thank you for trusting us to serve you. We look forward to working with you and for you in 2021. United we stand.
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COVER STORY
ISSADA Leading the way in Purity, Results and Business Growth SERIAL AUSTRALIAN ENTREPRENEUR DEB FARNWORTHWOOD has incredible passion and vision for the aesthetics industry where she has immersed herself for over a decade. Known in Australia for her successful medi-aesthetics franchise Australian Skin Clinics, Deb has now added to her portfolio another beauty business - ISSADA. Her vision is to expand its footprint and to continue to provide sustainable, ethically sourced, cruelty free and effective products into this dual range. ISSADA was originally launched in 2007 as a professional makeup range. However, since December 2020, Deb has expanded the concept to include an innovative clinicalstrength skincare products adding an exciting new dimension to the ISSADA story. Here Deb shares with us her journey with the acquisition of ISSADA makeup and the new and complementary addition of a quality skincare range as the perfect companion products. DEB, WHY DID YOU CHOOSE TO TAKE ISSADA ON AS A PRODUCT AND WHAT ARE THE COMPETITIVE ADVANTAGES OF THE BRAND? I have loved the Issada makeup brand since I first met Fiona Neale around 12 years ago. Fiona and I became friends, and over the years, I’ve seen the brand grow and flourish - and of course, I use the products! My forte is business growth and scaling-up, so in early 2019 Fiona approached me to see if I would be interested in buying the company to take it to the next level, which so many boutique brands do. We spent a great deal of time talking about how we would make that work, and we agreed that she would stay on as General Manager. Our competitive advantage is that we have not gone to one cosmetic house and pulled together an existing range
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under our logo. We source from all over the world - mainly Europe, USA and Australia. Our range is unique. It is carefully and thoughtfully pulled together. We have a long list of expectations that need to be met before we add a new product to the range. One of our competitors claimed that their product was “Issada but cheaper” - but it was not the same product at all. Not even close. Our motto is now “if it doesn't say Issada then it isn’t”. We are highly focused on salons, spas and clinics and you will not find Issada in department stores. We promise not to supply discount websites either. Over the years you will have heard me speak passionately about profitable partnerships with suppliers and this is one of the principles that underpin Issada. We want to help our stockists be profitable by providing quality products that customers will want to repurchase with great markups for the stockists. Of course, it goes without saying that we ethically source, are cruelty free, paraben free and vegan. Issada has been championing the fight against the use of talc in cosmetics for 15 years, and are delighted that the bigger companies are finally taking notice. WHO DOES ISSADA CATER FOR IN TERMS OF AGE DEMOGRAPHICS, SKIN-TYPES AND ETHNIC GROUPS? Issada is for everyone who understands that quality makeup is essential for healthy skin. We take the approach that every skin needs Issada and we have collections to suit a variety of tastes. Our foundations are second to none with something for every skin whether dry and dehydrated, prone to acne, or seeking light or heavier coverage, from loose, baked, cream and liquid. It’s fair to say that whatever your preferences or tastes we have a product for you.
WHO IS A GOOD POTENTIAL STOCKIST OF THE BRAND? We are highly focussed on salons/spas/aesthetic clinics that have quality services, great presentation, are serious about skin and are highly professional with sound commercial acumen. We have products for spa and beauty salons and also for aesthetic clinics too. HOW DOES ISSADA MAKEUP WORK IN SYNERGY WITH THE ISSADA SKINCARE, AND HOW CAN A SKIN CLINIC THAT HAS NEVER INTRODUCED MAKEUP EXPECT TO GAIN IN TERMS OF REVENUE INCREASE BY ISSADA MAKEUP? The key to success in any salon or clinic is understanding your clients, gaining their trust and making appropriate recommendations. In this respect we are suited to any spa, salon and clinic where a client consultation is considered to be core to their business and where businesses seek to support their clients with quality post-treatment and homecare products. Our point-of-sale retail presence Is strong too, positioned correctly, you should see an increase in impulse purchases as well. Of course, we give full training on all our products. In December we are launching Issada Clinical Formula Skincare comprising of retail and professional products to enhance your client results. Our mark-up on makeup is 100% and 250% on skincare. Both the makeup and skincare are designed to support skin health and work in synergy. WITH THE CURRENT IMPACT OF THE PANDEMIC ON CONSUMERS HOW IMPORTANT IS COLOUR COSMETICS IN SUPPORTING MENTAL HEALTH AND WELLBEING? Women have always loved colour - especially beautiful lipsticks and eye shadows and we encourage women to express themselves through the use of colour. There is lots
of science behind colour choices and perception of power, sexuality and professionalism, but in the modern day we encourage clients to wear what makes them feel happy! We’ve all lived in our pyjamas too much this year, seen ourselves looking stressed and tired on countless zoom and Skype meetings and obsessed about what it will feel like to be able to dress up and go out again, so now it’s time to pamper ourselves a little and make ourselves feel alive again. WHAT PRODUCTS WOULD YOU CONSIDER THE HERO PRODUCTS FOR ISSADA? MAKEUP: In the makeup range, all our foundations are exceptional and as I mentioned earlier, we have something for everyone. Our powder-to-cream mineral baked foundation is just one stand out and is a unique formula, but really, every product is a hero. My personal favourite is our CC8 cream because I have dry skin and it has beautiful lightreflecting properties leaving me looking hydrated and dewy. SKINCARE: In our new skincare range, again every product is a hero, but my personal favourite is our probiotic moisturiser, which is perfect for rosacea, sensitive and barrier impaired skin. As for our professional range, our post-treatment recovery complex is a must-have. For this product, I was looking for many qualities - soothing and calming, antiredness action and antibacterial. Also, it had to be suitable for use on the face and body. On the body, it needed to quickly cover large areas such as men’s shoulders and legs after laser treatments, which meant it needed to glide onto the skin easily and be rapidly absorbed. Finally, because laser rooms can sometimes smell unpleasant after laser hair removal, I wanted it to smell great with a scent that is safe, non-reactive, mentally calming and yet linger just enough for the next client to walk in and not smell singed hair. It was a big ask, but we finally achieved all those qualities! APJ Call ISSADA 07 3904 2288 or visit issada.com/partners APJ 11
MINERAL MAKEUP + CLINICAL SKINCARE Issada Mineral Cosmetics has been at the forefront of high-quality, skin-treating mineral makeup in Australia for over 15 years. Now, Issada is set to launch a range of advanced cosmeceutical skincare - ISSADA CLINICAL FORMULA
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Become an Issada Stockist.
Issada’s cohesive ranges complement each other as well as the treatments our stockists perform in their clinics. OUR AIM IS TO SUPPORT ALL ASPECTS OF HIGH FUNCTIONING, HEALTHY AND BEAUTIFUL SKIN
PURE MINERAL COSMETICS
ACTIVE COSMECEUTICAL SKINCARE
Safe for use post treatment, including laser, skin and cosmetic injectables.
Scientifically developed and tested in a skin clinic environment.
Non-comedogenic (won’t block pores).
Committed to achieving and supporting effective clinical results.
Hypoallergenic, dermatologically and opthamologically tested. Pharmaceutical and clinical grade ingredients to nourish skin. Anti-inflammatory and anti-microbial.
High-performance concentrations of vitamins, peptides, minerals, antioxidants, probiotics, acids and plant extracts.
Suitable for all skin types including acne-prone, rosacea and sensitive skin
Designed to meet the specific needs of clinics and medi-spas with the inclusion of gentle and high potency formulations.
Choose from a range of TALC-FREE mineral foundations and cosmetics.
Professional products, treatments and full retail range with a 250% markup.
CLEAN FORMULAS
ADVANCED ACTIVES
CRUELTY FREE
AUSTRALIAN
Call 07 3904 2288 or visit issada.com/partners for more information.
APJ 13
PRODUCT PROFILE
The UK’s #1 Laser & IPL Manufacturer has arrived in Australia FOR ALMOST TWO DECADES, one of Australia’s largest distribution companies – Professional Beauty Solutions (PBS) has been providing salon, spa and clinic partners with innovative results-driven brands that are leaders in their categories. We sat down with co-founder and CEO Matt Williams to talk about the devices that are set to play a bigger role than ever when it comes to client results – and in turn – clinic revenue. APJ Q1: You’ve expanded into the technology category with Dermalux LED and more recently, Lynton. Can you tell us more about your move into this space? The professional beauty industry has changed rapidly over the past 10 years, and alongside it, PBS has too. Initially starting off as a makeup, cosmeceutical and skincare distributor, we quickly saw the significance of the technology category within our industry as high-tech modalities and devices began to play a bigger role than ever before. With our introduction of the UK-manufactured, awardwinning Dermalux LED devices to Australia – came the proof of how powerful technology can be in accelerating and enhancing the results our salon partners were achieving for their clients. From pigmentation, scarring and ageing skin to acne and sensitised skin conditions – Dermalux LED quickly demonstrated its game-changing capabilities. The benefits of adding an effective, reliable, results-driven device can not only help you achieve extraordinary results for your clients, but can increase your business profitability and see your business transformed. Adding Lynton – the #1 UK Manufactured Laser & IPL brand – to the PBS portfolio has added a whole new dimension to our offerings, whilst their devices offer our salon partners an incredible return on investment alongside revolutionary results. APJ 14
APJ Q2: Why did you choose to partner with Lynton? When we learned about the history of the company, the decision was actually a very easy one. Lynton is the only laser and IPL manufacturer in the world that began as an academic project, with the sole purpose at the time being to develop medical grade equipment that could be used in hospital settings. Their journey began 26 years ago with two of the founders (Andy Berry, PhD and Andrew Charlton, PhD) developing the world’s first Q-switch laser. A few years later they were joined by another leading physicist at The University of Manchester (Jon Exley, PhD) who set out to develop the world’s first IPL device. Their technology remains some of the best in the world and their devices are found in over 1,000 clinics and hospitals across the UK, and when we learned that there were Lynton devices that were still in the marketplace over 20 years later, we knew this was a company we wanted to partner with. From their amazing results to the clinical papers and the quality of their manufacturing and training, there’s no comparison. APJ Q3: Why should clinics consider Lynton as their aesthetic technology IPL partner? When choosing any piece of equipment for your business, the two most important factors to consider are efficacy
and return on investment. No matter what the cost of a device, if it fails to achieve the results your clients expect it won’t add value to the business. Alternatively, a device that generates amazing results, but comes with an exorbitant price tag makes it almost impossible to run at a profit. Lynton represents the perfect synergy between efficacy and ROI. Lynton’s sub-millisecond pulsing and fully controllable pulse delays and allows you to treat even the finest and lightest hairs along with a wide range of advanced vascular lesions and skin concerns. Their IPL devices are equipped with the longest and most flexible pulse sequencing in the world which results in more effective treatments on darker skin types while improving client comfort and removing the need for contact cooling. Square Pulse Technology ensures consistent energy output every treatment, every time, while fixed filters reduce costly consumable and minimises the risks of burns associated with damaged filters. Lynton IPL devices also feature the longest light guides in the market for enhanced speed, precision, client safety and operator comfort, plus, industry leading light guide design for enhanced speed, precision, safety and client comfort. Lynton is also medically certified to EU standards and listed on the Australian Register of Therapeutic Goods – this approval acknowledges and ensures the safety, quality and efficacy of their devices.
A Lynton IPL is truly unlike anything else on the market. It functions like a laser and will yield results that rival even the most advanced lasers on the market. Lynton’s longstanding history of manufacturing safe, effective, high quality medical grade IPLs, used in hospitals throughout the UK, means you can be confident in achieving amazing results for your clients, time-after-time. It is these results that will foster repeat business and enable the highest possible return on your investment. APJ Q4: How do you support your salon, spa and clinic partners? Distributing high-quality, medical-grade equipment is only half of what we do. We are equally dedicated to guiding all of our clinic partners through the transitional process of settingup new aesthetic technologies within their business. One of our core beliefs is that high-quality training is essential before the delivery of any aesthetic treatment. Our clinical trainers will ensure you are all well placed to provide safe treatments with optimum results and ultimate success. With Professional Beauty Solutions you have an entire team dedicated to your ongoing success. This includes support around your treatment menu, marketing and a hotline to answer any treatment questions that may arise. APJ
For more information please call 1800 625 387 or visit www.probeautysolutions.com.au
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MEMBER PROFILE
SURVIVAL STORIES & Tips During COVID-19 Tina Viney THERE IS NOTHING LIKE GAINING INSIGHT FROM OTHER LIKE-MINDED BUSINESS OWNERS who have had to face the same challenges as you during this monumentally eventful year. Our beautiful APAN community has some incredible inspirational women. While we cannot interview all of you, we have selected a few to share their experiences and tips and what has worked for them. We are grateful to these amazing women and we trust that as they share their stories you will also be encouraged and inspired. LYNNE WATERFORD - EARTH N BEAUTY, COONAMBLE, NSW Living in remote NSW has been an advantage as we had less registered cases of infection. However, like everyone, I was very nervous at first as being a relatively new business of just four years I was not sure how the lockdown would impact my business. However, I have to say that I was pleasantly surprised that our business has managed to continue to grow. During the lockdown, my focus has been in expanding my education. I redeemed the time by undertaking lots of online educational courses, which allowed me to focus on expanding
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Lynne Waterford
my knowledge and focusing on positivity, growth and ways that I could provide my clients with greater value. I also felt very supported by my suppliers. Two of the brands we stock are Dermaviduals and Dermatonics. I loved the support and education I gained from Dermaviduals and also appreciated some of the new product developments from Dermatonics as they launched their amazing introductory skincare kits, which were extremely well received and very popular with our clients. Recently, I also completed APAN’s new PAN001: PANDEMIC INFECTION CONTROL PROGRAM, which I thoroughly enjoyed. As a registered nurse and also because I am continuing to work part-time at the local hospital, I have completed several infection control and COVID-19 courses, including those required of me from the hospital. However, I have to say the PAN001 was by far superior to any other course I have done and I learned so much from it. I felt the pathophysiology was excellent and I gained further insight into the behaviour of pandemics. The course was very comprehensive, evidence-based, thorough and well-worth investing in. I truly believe completing this course will help strengthen my reputation and I know that my clients will also appreciate it. I also believe the pledge to the safety charter will also help provide greater recognition and peace of mind to my clients. I really believe it will be amazing to gain government recognition of this course. It is something that will immensely benefit the industry. TERESSA RUSSO – VISIBLE CHANGES, ADELAIDE, SA Leading business and salon owner in Adelaide Teressa Russo had a unique experience with COVID-19. When COVID-19 hit I went into panic-mode and was quite anxious. I then considered that my clients would be going through the same thing. This made me realise that the most important thing we all needed was understanding and compassion, so I decided to reach out to every one of my clients and offer them exactly that. Each morning I picked up the phone and starting phoning each one of them. I did not send an email, I did not text, I did not ask my staff to do it. I did it.
Teressa Russo
The first thing I asked each client is “are you OK?” I didn’t try to make any bookings; all I did was show genuine care. The response was that every person I spoke to was so grateful and so appreciative of me reaching out to them. Having received the APAN COVID-19 Clinical Safety Policy I put all my staff through the protocols. I put all the signs up, set up the client screening policy and put my decal out. I therefore assured each client that we had put in place industry and government health regulation requirements and that when they were ready to come to us, we were prepared with the stringent of infection control measures. This was very much appreciated by each and every one of our clients. Within a few days the bookings started flooding in and they haven’t stopped since. We are currently booked out until next year. The other strategy I implemented is that I was only prepared to service our existing clients, as I was cautious with any new clients for safety reasons. This was also appreciated by my staff who felt that I was protecting them as well. There were quite a few people coming across from Victoria where the infection numbers were high, so when they approached us for bookings, we told them we were booked out, which we were anyway. In terms of consumer behaviour, our experience is that clients are prioritising to take extra care of themselves and taking up high-end treatments such as laser and Fraxel treatments which have definitely increased this year. The attitude has been, “I have always wanted to have this treatment, so I have decided not to wait for a better time, but to have it now.” Despite all the challenges we have all gone through, I am pleased to say that our figures are up from last year and COVID has not affected our business in a detrimental way. The key change we have made is to take more time to show our clients that we care for them. SIBINA MURVAT, COSMETIC TATTOO ART BY SIBINA, GOLD COAST, QUEENSLAND Internationally renowned and award-winning cosmetic tattoo specialist Sibina Murvat had this to say about her experience. As we were closed for approximately 10 weeks this was a good time to enjoy the family, home schooling the kids and the
Sibina Murvat
chance to experience a different pace of life. I decided to take care of myself and engaged a personal trainer, took long walks and exercised more. As a cosmetic tattooist no longer working on my craft, I had to get back to drawing eyebrows and continue to exercise my wrist to help maintain by strength and dexterity for when I returned to work. While I enjoyed the break, I did start to get bored and really missed my work. Once we opened in July we were flooded with appointments. Our clients were so thrilled to return and to be taken care of. It is interesting, but many did not believe that COVID-19 would last this long. I believe the lockdown made them make sure when they returned, they would no longer procrastinate, but make the decision to go ahead and to try different treatments. People who were postponing their treatments decided not to wait any longer. All our local clients returned in a frenzy, but as 30% of our clients are from other states, some were not able to cross the borders. Meanwhile our new clients continue to increase, so now that the borders are opening up we are becoming very busy. I have to say I now work longer hours than ever and we are booked out until next March 2021. Being on the Gold Coast we are lucky that we have not been hit hard with COVID, so let’s believe the good days will continue.
Shannen Simmons
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SHANNEN SIMMONS AESTHETICALLY YOU REJUVENATION CLINIC, ASHMORE, QLD Shannen Simmons is currently studying the Bachelor of Applied Health Science (Clinical Aesthetics) at the Australasian College of Health and Wellness and aspired to start her own business right in the middle of the global pandemic. This lady will also inspire you with her amazing story. The week I launched my business was the week that the lockdown measures were enforced in Queensland. It was a very scary time for me, but I decided not to focus on feeling sorry for, myself but to throw myself into reviewing my marketing and my business plan in light of the current changes. I realised that with the lockdown I would only be able to promote and sell products so I worked on my online presence, gift vouchers and explored the new options that were now available to me. I also threw myself into further studies, connected with webinars, checked with APAN to ensure that I was complying with regulations and the new changes. I expanded my modalities and completed a course in HIFU technology and dermaplaning and prepared myself to come back stronger. The preparation definitely paid off and since re-opening I am extremely busy. The key observation that I am seeing in terms of consumer behaviour is that clients are stressed and are seeking empathy and psychological support from me. They want reassurance that I will take care of them on a personal, as well as a professional level. This is a major consideration that I am seeing with nearly all of my clients. It is a skillset that I am definitely expanding. The main services that my clients are seeking are the more high-end anti-ageing treatments. They want leading skin treatment results, but also seek ways that I can assist them with their stress management. I am also identifying that safety is very much a priority for my clients. As the media is playing out that the risks of COVID infections continues, my clients want to know that my infection control measures are in place and that I am adequately qualified in this area as well. While I have completed an infection control qualification, I am also undertaking the PAN001 PANDEMIC INFECTION CONTROL PROGRAM that APAN has introduced, as I know this will also be appreciated by my clients and it will allow me to gain their on-going trust, as well as provide me with an additional competitive advantage in an important area, especially at this time. My advice to business owners is to stay focused on staying positive, offer hope and compassion to their clients and provide them with a happy and supportive environment that is both safe and progressive. My recommendation to others is, do not allow the current situation to intimidate you. Use any downtime to upskill and stay focused on your business and your values.
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Jeanette Elliott
JEANETTE ELLIOTT, SKIN RIVISION, BUNBURY WA Having recently moved from regional WA to Bunbury Jeanette Elliott had settled into her lovely apartment in Bunbury with her clinic located beneath her new residence. A dedicated dermal therapist Jeanette was excited to start building her business at the new location. However, as COVID hit with its subsequent lockdown I was originally terrified as I attempted to cope financially with the imposed restrictions. Working with DMK I was not permitted to have an online store however, I did reach out to all my clients offering my support and product care. My clients were grateful that I maintained my contact and communication with them and making sure they continued to appropriately look after their skin. I have to say, I tried to redeem the time by continuing my education and training programs which I undertook via Zoom. However, I progressively started to really enjoy the break. This was a great time for soul-searching and taking an honest look at my life and my future direction. I realised that I was comfortable to downsize as I am slowly approaching my senior years, I recognised the importance of authenticity and honesty about what is important for me at this stage. I now realise it is more important to have quality rather than quantity so I am comfortable to work with that philosophy with my clients. This has allowed me time for selfcare and moving towards expanding my knowledge in nutrition, which I believe is a valuable adjunct to skincare. HOLLY COPPING TERRITORY LASER CLINIC, DARWIN NT While the Northern Territory was last to close down, its turn eventually came and lockdown was implemented with the fury of the local councils who meticulously inspected salons and clinics to ensure compliance. Holly Copping is a hard-working dermal therapist and the owner of the Territory Laser Clinic who specialises in solving problematic skin conditions. While initially overwhelmed, she quickly adapted to what was required. I personally phoned all our clients and patients one by one and discovered that they were also feeling the pressure and appreciated talking to someone. As you can imagine, these phone calls where not brief, most of them lasted 2030 minutes each as many were relieved to be able to share their fears and anxiety with someone who cared and who felt that we were all in this thing together. While we were not permitted to perform any treatments, we were able to sell products and make appointments for the future, while observing social distancing. During the lockdown staff were encouraged to upgrade their knowledge. As we have seven skincare brands, they took this opportunity to improve their knowledge through various online interactive sessions with
Holly Copping
supply companies and gain more in-depth understanding of the brands we were working with. With our skincare clients, especially those with acne or problematic skin, we took extra care with them as most had their treatment plan disrupted. We gave them homecare packages at discounted rates and guided them how to take care of their skin to avoid further breakouts. On their return we prioritise to take them first and quickly returned them to their treatment plan. Since our return we have been extremely busy and we are booked out until next February. We attribute this to the fact that travel and holidays are still restricted, however, there is a real shift towards self-care and investing in what people feel will make them feel good. PIA KYNOCH, INSPIRATION PLACE, VICTORIA Pia Kynoch is a highly motivated thought-leader, salon owner and trainer, who is known for her incredible energy and commitment to helping her clients and those she trains to elevate their quality of life on many levels. Here she shares how this year has impacted her world. After 24 years of running my salon Skin, Beauty, Wellness I decided to rebrand, change my focus and become predominantly a skin clinic combined with a selfcommunication practice. I renamed my business the Inspiration Place changing my menu to provide 50% skin treatments and 50% personal development and holistic services. We launched this just a few months ago, which was in the middle of the COVID-19 disruption. Being based in Victoria, we experienced two lockdowns which spanned across eight months. While we launched the new concept, we were able to not just address skincare needs, but also address mental and emotional concerns. We introduce an online Facial Experience for our clients. This was a comprehensive 60-90 minutes coaching session, which included training into how to take care of their skin during the lockdown, education on the products they were using, as well as how to breathe properly as well as meditation techniques to help support them on many levels. This was a paid consultation and it was very well received by our clients. The objective of the Inspirational Place is to inspire people and is supported by an online mental and emotional portal to allow the public to access engagement and more personalised help on the various areas they need. It is a new concept but it has been positively welcomed by our clients and the public at large. For industry professionals I have set up Pia Kynoch Holistic Education, where I teach practitioners how to serve their clients better including holistic elements of personal
Pia Kynoch
growth and spiritual development. Over the break I was able to focus and work on developing my online education and refining our programs, while also changing all our menus to add new elements. Having only recently returned after our second lockdown I have to say that our staff love the change. They are very happy and find the work environment very uplifting as everything we do now is based on our core values. Evolving into the new concept is working well for us. While as yet the numbers of clients are not quite as high, our revenue is the same. We are optimistically looking forward to the future and feel we now have something more to offer our clients. MAJA ERCEGOVAC, HOLO ACADEMY, MELBOURNE VICTORIA Maja is a dedicated cosmetic tattooist and electrologist who is renowned for her meticulous work both as a practitioner as well as an educator. Her innovative techniques and infection control standards are unrivalled and her reputation is well-established both locally and internationally. Here is her experience. I have to say that COVID didn’t really impact us negatively. During the lockdown period, after overcoming the first shock of everything that was happening, I took advantage of this time to restructure my business and refine my online classes. I also remodeled my premises giving it a more clinical look. During lockdown I became acutely aware of the level of pain and confusion that so many were experiencing and I considered it my duty-of-care to step up my support and to give more generously in as many ways as possible. In the early days, supplies were often scarce. A medical centre not far from me ran out of supplies so I donated as much as I could to help – masks, gloves, cleaning products and other consumables. With my students I realised they were more vulnerable, so I gave them extra support, more online training and exercises to complete to keep them busy. I also developed more videos and helped them and made myself available to be there for them not just in their studies, but also to advise and support them with their personal insecurities and anxieties. I have to say that while the pandemic brought out their vulnerabilities, giving them extra help has allowed us to develop trust and a very special bond with many of our students. Coming back after the second lockdown, my clients were so thrilled to return and I have to say I am grateful that this year, my business will continue to thrive and grow. On a personal level, I am also investing in expanding my education and I have enrolled to do the Bachelor of Applied Health Science Degree (Clinical Aesthetics) which is keeping me busy, but I love learning, growing and constantly improving what I do, as well as sharing my knowledge. APJ
Maja Ercegivac
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CONSUMER EDUCATION
Bring on Skin Age Management A Consumer Educational Approach By Giulia D’Anna
DO YOU WANT TO EXPLAIN ANTI-AGEING REGIMES to your clients, but don’t want to get too science-y? I have written this article in a style and tone that is more consumer-friendly to help shed some light on common topics that arise in our salons or clinics. This one is for you to share with your clients. Everything you need to know about your skin’s natural renewal process and how you can boost it – so you can have smoother and younger-looking skin.
Fend off fine lines
production, improve cellular turnover and also slow collagen degradation in the process.
The story of wrinkles
2. Peptides on top Many studies have found that peptides improve the appearance of photo-damage, so these are essential for your skincare regime. Peptides are composed of amino acids, which can imitate the building blocks that make up collagen and elastin. Some peptides have also been shown to stimulate collagen and elastin production, which is perfect when we are targeting fine lines in the skin.
Where do crow’s feet, forehead furrows and laugh lines come from? The secret to preventing them is to know how they form. First up, the building blocks of healthy, youthfullooking skin are collagen, which gives skin firmness; elastin, responsible for elasticity and ‘bounce’ and glycosaminoglycans (also known as GAGs), which keep skin hydrated and plump. From the age of 25 we start producing around one per cent less collagen per year; elastin production slows; and our skin thins and becomes more fragile. This is where ‘intrinsic’ ageing is inevitable, but subtle. The real changes occur as a result of extrinsic ageing, which is primarily the result of environmental and external damage. This might be a combination of lifestyle habits (too much alcohol, poor diet or cigarette smoking), UV damage and exposure to pollution - all these factors result in down-regulation of collagen and elastin production within the dermis. This ultimately contributes to sagging skin and wrinkles, along with brown spots, dryness and uneven skin tone. WHAT CAN WE DO? It’s all about prevention – and it’s never too late to start. Shield your skin daily with a good SPF 50+ sunscreen, add an antioxidant, such as vitamin C serum, to bolster protection from UV rays and free radicals, plus try the following tricks to power-up your collagen stores: 1. Reach for retinoids Retinoids are vitamin A that include retinol and retinaldehyde (available over-the-counter) and trenitoin (a prescription medication). Scientifically proven to assist skin-cell regulation, retinol is one of the most powerful topicals for preventing the early signs of ageing, as well as helping to reduce the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles and discolouration. Retinoids are perfect for assisting the skin’s natural renewal process, especially for sun damage. They promote collagen
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3. Lasers have perfect focus Laser therapy works by heating the cells that produce collagen (the fibroblasts), thereby speeding up production, and also heating the collagen to ‘shrink’ it and make it tighter. This kind of laser is called non-ablative, as there is no removal of skin surface. The perfect thing about non-ablative laser is that it works from the inside out. Most people need around three to six treatments to really start to notice a difference, but this does depend upon how many wrinkles you have and also how deep they are. Lasers are generally best suited to people with a fair to medium skin tone. 4. You are what you eat Polyphenols in green tea, as well as Lutein - a carotenoid in leafy greens, broccoli and peas – can inhibit the natural enzymes that break down collagen. Phytonutrients in orange and yellow vegetables and fruits – think oranges, pumpkin, carrots and capsicums - help improve the skin brightness. Anti-oxidant fruits – raspberries, pomegranates and blueberries – contain a natural phenol called Ellagic acid. This antioxidant has been found to reduce collagen downregulation in animal studies, which is really promising. STAYING SPOT FREE Pigmentation is mainly caused by the sun. As UV rays hit your skin, they switch on an enzyme called tyrosinase that lives in your pigment-producing cells. These cells (called melanocytes) kick into action, creating pigment, which travels to the top
layers of your skin. Once dark spots have taken up residence, they’re constantly replaced by new pigment (sort-of-like a stubborn conveyer belt of sun-spot delivery), which is why fading them is such a tricky task.
What you can do There are a few effective ingredients and self-care management regimes that you can try to slow down your face’s pigment producing cells. 1. Use Vitamin C Numerous studies have shown that Vitamin C, aka ascorbic acid, improves skin texture and tone, boosts collagen production, brightens the complexion, fades dark spots and helps fend off photo-ageing due to sun exposure. I recommend using this every morning to help reduce the effects of the sun, since vitamin C is a potent anti-oxidant, but it also helps to brighten the skin, too, 2. Give Niacinamide a go Also known as Vitamin B3, niacinamide is a water-soluble vitamin that works to help visibly improve the appearance of enlarged pores, uneven skin tone and fine lines and wrinkles. Vitamin B upregulates cell metabolism and renewal. The amazing thing is that at a low concentration of just 5%, the elasticity of the skin will improve, whilst there will also be a noticeable reduction in redness, irritation and pigmentation. 3. Exfoliate Pigmentation usually lies in the top layers of the skin, so a good exfoliating product or treatment can reduce the appearance of sun spots. You have two options: manual exfoliation, using a scrub or cleansing brush; or a chemical exfoliation with alpha-hydroxy-acids (also known as AHAs), such as glycolic or lactic acids, which gently dissolve the bonds that hold the dead skin cells together. Go easy on exfoliation, or you will suffer skin sensitivity as that outer layer needs time to replenish. – give yourself a gentle exfoliation only once a week. 4. Wear sunscreen SPF50 is essential. The cells that produce pigment are called melanocytes and become active as a result of exposure to the sun. Wearing SPF shields the skin, so that the melanocytes don’t fire up, and this is important even on overcast days. It is estimated that up to 80% of the damage to our skin that makes us look older is caused by UV exposure. Even if you don’t burn, the rays responsible for ageing cut straight through windows and clouds. The good news is it’s never too late to start protecting yourself.
What you can do The absolute best thing you can do is feed your skin, and what I mean by that, is use amazing topical products that help to nourish your skin. But if you really want to up the ante, and tighten and tone, cosmetic injectable and certain dermal treatments can really make a difference. 1. Firm with fillers To fill lost volume in your face – especially the dreaded nasolabial folds, or marionette mouth lines, a cosmetic injector (Dentist, Doctor or Nurse) can inject one of the many different types of hyaluronic acid (HA) filler on the market. Each filler has a number of properties that make it suitable for different layers and areas on the face, which in turn determines the expected longevity or life-span of the product. When we inject HA, our skin begins to look younger again because the amount of water naturally held in the skin increases. This means that the cells communicate better, carry nutrients to the skin surface better and also lose waste more efficiently. Just make sure that you go to a trusted cosmetic injector, as the results you achieve are very dependent upon the skill and abilities that they possess. A good indicator is to look at the injectors face and that of their staff. You want to be in experienced hands where you have an idea of what they consider a good result. 2. The heat is on Non-invasive treatments like Radiofrequency and High Intensity Focused Ultrasound (HIFU) use intense heat energy to induce contraction of the skin, tightening its overall appearance. Dr D’Anna says that ultrasound can penetrate deeper than radiofrequency, so technically will give a better result. Both treatments can become quite intense as the treatment progresses and a little uncomfortable, but well worth the result that they achieve. An alternative treatment option is Venus Viva Radiofrequency treatment. It provides a treatment that is similar to that of a fractional laser treatment, but also sends radiofrequency heat energy down into the skin, which means we get rid of surface blemishes and wrinkles with the fractionated part of the treatment, but we also tighten the skin deeper down, too. APJ
5. Fight pigment with light The easiest and most effective option for age spots is Intense Pulsed Light, or IPL. Light targets the pigmented spots (usually brown in colour) and destroy the pigment. The spots will usually become darker (this is expected) and then the spots will eventually slough off after about one week. The spots usually need a few treatments to diminish further. Throughout the treatments, SPF is a must to help the IPL target the pigmented spot, and also to reduce the chance of further pigments. TIGHTEN UP Why does skin sag? Well gravity has a big part to play, but there are a number of other things going on too. Your facial skeleton becomes less bulky, the fat pads shift and change, and the skin itself becomes more-stretchy with less recoil due to the loss of collagen. Sounds good, right?!
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DERMATOLOGY
SKIN SENSITIVITY
Causes & Treatment Considerations Jacine Greenwood-Drummond
SENSITIVE SKIN CAN HAVE SEVERAL origins and with the current pandemic restrictions, the use of masks, strong alcohol-based sanitizers and increased stress levels, the issue of skin sensitivity is very much on the rise. In this article, Jacine Greenwood-Drummond discusses various categories of sensitive skin conditions, causes and solutions. Those with sensitive skin experience more intense and more frequent responses to both the use of personal care products and the environment - a phenomenon known as sensitive skin. However, consumer reports of sensitive skin are often self-diagnosed and can sometimes not be verified by objective signs of irritation. The incidences of sensitivity being reported is increasing, particularly with the regular use of facial masks to prevent the spread of COVID-19, however the issue you will need to consider is, is the condition truly sensitive, or environmentally sensitivity? Sensitive skin is characterised by subjective complaints of discomfort without predictable classical visible signs of irritation and without an immunological response. Although transient redness, itching, stinging dryness or tenderness may accompany adverse sensations and sensitive skin may be less supple or hydrated, subjects can often only experience sensory effects. It is important to note however, that sensitivity can be exacerbated by physical factors, chemical factors, psychological stress and hormones. PHYSICAL FACTORS Physical factors to consider include sunlight, heat, cold and wind, low humidity and the use of facial masks. When the skin is exposed to the elements and the skin barrier becomes disrupted, an inflammatory cytokine called interleukin 1a is released. Normally, this cytokine is released in response to barrier disruption and triggers the repair of the skin, however when it is continually released then it causes the breakdown of the barrier. Skin that is exposed to low humidity releases interleukin 1a at a significantly higher level, which is why the skin when exposed to arid climates, struggles to maintain hydration. CHEMICAL FACTORS On the other hand, chemical factors including cosmetics,
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can all play a role in the sensitivity of the skin. Products that have a high pH such as soap can lead to barrier disruption. Exposure to hard water releases abnormally high calcium levels to the skin, which changes the calcium gradient, leading to barrier disruption. PSYCHOLOGICAL STRESS Psychological stress has also been shown to affect the barrier function of the skin and its ability to repair itself. Psychological stress increases endogenous glucocorticoids by activating the automatic nervous system. Stress has been shown to delay wound healing and impair the permeability barrier of the skin, it reduces both the innate and adaptive immunity of the epidermis. HORMONAL CHANGES Hormonal surges and changes that occur during the menstrual cycle and also during menopause can influence the skin’s sensitivity. During menopause the oestrogen levels start to decline. Oestrogen loss is associated with dryness, impaired wound healing and epidermal thinning. Thinning skin is also a contributing factor to increased skin sensitivity. Skin sensitivity also changes during the menstrual cycle, with the skin being the most sensitive just before menstruation begins. Our hormones are linked with our nervous system and often as we get older the skin can become more sensitive due to this. SENSITIVE SKIN TYPE CLASSIFICATIONS As you would be aware there is a variety of sensitive skin types that are triggered by different reasons. Very sensitive skin is reactive to a wide variety of both endogenous and exogenous factors with both acute and chronic symptoms that can also be linked to a strong psychological component. Here is a brief summary of each: •
Environmentally sensitive skin is comprised of clear, dry, thin skin with a tendency to blush, or flush and reactive primarily to environmental factors.
•
Cosmetically sensitive skin is usually transiently reactive to specific and definable cosmetic products.
•
Delicate skin on the other hand, is characterised by easily disrupted barrier function that is sometimes not accompanied by a rapid or intense inflammatory response.
•
Stingers, are characterised by a heightened neurosensory perception to minor cutaneous stimulation. Asian skin types for example, are renowned for sensitivity with stinging.
CONTRIBUTING FACTORS TO SKIN SENSITIVITY What you will find with reactive skin is that it is characterised by a strong inflammatory response, without a significant increase in permeability. One of the largest contributors to sensitivity is barrier impairment. The permeability barrier of the stratum corneum requires the presence of intracellular lipids that are well packed together. It is also highly dependent on the lipid composition, with certain skin conditions such as rosacea showing altered lipid profiles. Increased neutral lipids and decreased sphingolipids are associated with barrier impairment and loss of water from the skin. The most reliable method of assessing barrier function is to measure transepidermal water loss. Transepidermal water loss is considered an indicator of the functional state of the stratum corneum, and has proven to be a better indicator of irritant susceptibility than clinical visual scoring. Clients who have a high baseline measurement of transepidermal water loss have one of the highest levels of reactivity. This means that if your skin is dehydrated, then you are going to feel cosmetics more and you are more likely to experience stinging and irritation. Once the barrier is corrected, in many instances the irritation disappears. So, what causes stinging and pain in the skin? The cause of pain and irritation is as a result of a receptor present on the surface of cells called Transient Receptor Potential Vanilloid (TRPV1). It is more commonly known as the pain receptor. The TRPV1 receptor is responsible for transmitting
Before
nerve endings are abnormally sensitive and the stimulation of them leads to the release of neuropeptides, including substance P and also histamine. SENSITIVITY AND THE IMPACT ON SKIN TREATMENTS With the increase in mask usage comes changes to the skin microbiome and also the permeability of the skin. Skin is much more prone to irritation due to the microflora change. Moisture trapped also softens skin cells, resulting in more fragile skin. This needs to be taken into consideration when performing procedures such as microdermabrasion and chemical peels.The skin is more permeable which means that potentially chemical peels may penetrate much deeper into the skin causing issues such as chemical burns, which may not have occurred under different circumstances. The peel may not stay restricted to the upper levels of the epidermis, meaning that clients who previously had no issues may now start experiencing issues because of the use of facial masks being worn. The same considerations need to be given to the performance of microdermabrasion. The skin will be much more sensitive now due to the changes in the population of the skin microbiome and also the subsequent removal of ceramides in the skin from friction. The consequences of exfoliating a skin that is hypersensitive, with compromised barrier function already could have disastrous consequences. Silicones are also a superior choice for maskne, due to their ability to act as a barrier and prevent friction. Silicones have been shown to prevent transepidermal water loss, without interfering in the repair of the barrier after acute barrier disruption. They form a vapour permeable barrier on the skin, preventing pollution particles from adhering and entering pores. Pollution is another cause of sensitive skins. SOLUTIONS The solution for sensitive skin is to reduce the reactivity of the skin by reducing TRPV1. One such ingredient is Mirabalis Jalapa Extract, which has been proven to improve the comfort of sensitive and reactive skin. It targets the root causes of
After After 2 weeks using Roccoco’s Soothing Cleansing Oil, Purifying Treatment Essence and Decongesting Porefection.
the sensation of pain upon contact with heat, chemicals and acids. This receptor is present in our skin, as the skin is the first line of defence to the environment. Individuals who have hypersensitive and hyper-reactive skin have been shown to have more nerve ending per square centimeter of skin, making them actually experience more sensations. They have been shown to also have massively elevated levels of TRPV1. This manifests itself as skin that feels tight, itching and even burning - even though there is nothing harming the skin. In hypersensitive skin, the free
sensitive skin by considering the epidermis as both a sensory organ and a physical barrier. Mirabilis Jalapa Extract has been shown to stimulate the synthesis of key components of the epidermis including ceramides and hyaluronic acid. It reinforces the stratum corneum and reduces redness by 54% in 21 days. Mirabilis reduces TRPV1, which reduces sensitivity at the root of the issue. It also reinforces the cell cohesion by 107%, making the skin barrier function stronger, therefore preventing irritants from easily penetrating the skin. Mirabilis Jalapa Extract also APJ 25
increases ceramides in the skin and hyaluronic acid, it helps to re-establish the skin barrier, which is its normal function when it is healthy. Another ingredient that has been shown to have benefits in reducing sensitivity is Hexapeptide-49. It has been shown to reduce neurogenic inflammation by reducing the sensation of pain and also itching. Hexapeptide-49 has also been shown to restore the skin barrier integrity and also reduces TRPV1 and substance p in the skin. AREAS MORE SENSITIVE TO REACTIONS The area of the face that is the most sensitive is the nasolabial fold, followed by the malar eminence, chin, forehead and upper lip. This area in particular, is affected by the use of facial masks, with a steep rise in the amount of perioral dermatitis occurring since COVID-19.
INGREDIENTS THAT SOOTHE The oligosaccharides derived from the brown algae Laminaria digitata, have been shown extensively to decrease skin reactivity and inflammation. They have also been shown to protect the Langerhans cells and optimise epidermal regeneration. Colloidal oatmeal has a long history of soothing the skin and reducing redness. It also aids moisturisation of the skin. Prickly Pear Extract offers extremely high performance with soothing the skin and is rich in piscidic acid and mucilages. Phytosphingosine is a skin-identical ingredient naturally present in the stratum corneum. It is said to improve the appearance of red, inflamed and blemished skin by soothing skin and balancing its microflora.
During mask wearing the skin is exposed to heat as well as moisture, which is trapped under the mask. This alters the microbiome, as many organisms over populate in hot and moist environments. Prebiotics are a good solution for maskne. Probiotics help to establish biodiversity, with many prebiotics encouraging the growth of only beneficial bacteria.
SENSITIVE SKIN CONDITIONS AND INGREDIENTS TO AVOID Artificial fragrance should be avoided in general with sensitive skins. Fragrances can contain thousands of compounds with many of them being allergens. Essential oils known to be an issue for sensitive skins include Ylang Ylang, Lemongrass Oil, Narcissus Absolute, Jasmine Absolute and Sandalwood Oil.
Researchers at Shiseido also discovered that there is a link to biodiversity of the microbiome and hydration levels of the skin, as well as redness. They analysed and extracted the flora of Japanese women in their 20s and 30s. The diversity of the skin flora was evaluated using the Shannon Diversity index, which evaluates the deviation from both the variety of bacteria and the abundance ratio, as well as the diversity of bacterial flora on each skin. Studies have shown that the abundance of bacteria on the skin correlated to the level of water in the skin. The number of bacteria was also directly correlated to the level of redness in the skin. Skin with less diversity was shown to be more sensitive and red.
Strongly anionic surfactants such as Sodium Lauryl Sulphate should be avoided, due to the ability of these surfactants to integrate into the skin barrier, displacing the ceramides and protective natural moisturising factors.
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Sensitive skins can be quickly restored to normal skin sensation with the correct actives and avoidance of ingredients that are known to be barrier disruptive. No single active is a miracle cure, with a combination of actives always being necessary to repair the barrier and soothe the skin. APJ
www.roccoco.com
roccocobotanicals APJ 27
PRODUCT LAUNCH
MargiFox Distributors Launches ADVANCED NUTRITION PROGRAM HIGHLY COMMITTED TO credible products of exceptional quality MargiFox Distributors, renowned for jane iredale mineral makeup and Environ Skincare, recently launched ADVANCED NUTRITION – an exciting, high-quality evidence-based nutritional program to help support wellbeing, as well as elevate skin treatment to a new level. To learn more above this new initiative we recently spoke with Margi. Q1: Margi, you have always been committed to doing everything with excellence, what prompted you to add the Advanced Nutrition Programme to your business? As a business we are serious about skincare and passionate about brands that are wellresearched and backed by science, while also being environmentally friendly and paving the way for a sustainable future. Advanced Nutrition Programme is the perfect complement to jane iredale mineral makeup and Environ Skincare that we already distribute (jane APJ 28
iredale Australia-wide, and Environ in QLD & VIC). Treatments can now start from within by Feeding the skin with the nutrients and vitamins it needs, followed by Fortifying with cosmeceutical skin care and Finishing with mineral makeup. Q2: What is Advanced Nutrition Programme’s point of difference from other products out there? Advanced Nutrition Programme have created an award-winning range of supplements designed to support healthy skin and overall wellbeing from the inside out. Using decades of expertise in nutrition and skin, the Advanced Nutrition Programme experts have synergised ingredients together that target skin concerns and feed the skin from within, elevating results gained in-clinic and at home. The Nutritional experts at Advanced Nutrition Programme focus on the 4 P’s to exemplify the difference with the supplements from research and results. These pillars are Purity, Potency, Production and Packaging.
Q3: What training do you provide for its introduction to clients and does the training include enhancing specific skin conditions e.g., sensitive skin, ageing skin, oily or acne skin? The training for Advanced Nutrition Programme has evolved with the times and is offered virtually to ensure every therapist that works with the brand can be educated individually, at a time of their convenience from the comfort of their own home. This also pre-empts an exciting new training platform, which will be launched in early 2021. The training has a strong focus on ensuring therapists are equipped to perform holistic consultations as soon as they begin stocking Advanced Nutrition Programme. We teach therapists about the integrity of the brand, key product ingredients and what effects they have on the skin, as well as recommendations on how to treat individual skin conditions such as dry skin, sensitivity and oily skin.
Q4: Since launching, how well is the product doing and what businesses are best suited to this product? There has been an increased demand for Advanced Nutrition Programme in Australia for many years, as the brand awareness has been growing globally since the UK launch in 2006. In November 2020 we were joined by over 100 eager businesses at our virtual launch event, and many have now begun proudly stocking the brand and already seeing amazing results. Businesses that are focussed on achieving the best results for their clients’ skin with a holistic approach are best suited to the use of the Feed, Fortify, Finish philosophy. APJ Margifox Distributors www.margifox.com.au 1300 850 008 APJ 29
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COMPANY PROFILE
LEDT.H.E.S BODY SYSTEM
The new revolutionary Body Remodelling Treatment with LED light has just arrived! SKEYNDOR
SCIENCE Creates Beauty®
SUMMER HAS ARRIVED and this is the season when cellulite and body concerns will once again become the focal point. Now there is a solution you can provide your clients that is highly effective, safe, and can be comfortably delivered in your treatment room. Leading the world in innovative aesthetic technologies SKEYNDOR once again has launched another first. The new LEDT.H.E.S BODY SYSTEM incorporates phototherapy with thermo-stimulation to provide a highly effective body remodelling treatments with amazing results. The physiological and health benefits of LED light are well-documented in the scientific literature. Now this amazing technology has been combined with thermo-stimulation and skincare products to provide thermogenesis and lymphatic stimulation working on cellulite and problematic fat deposits. The synergistic action of this system facilitates the release of wastes, contributing to effective remodelling and a smoother, more svelte physique. HOW DOES IT WORK? The LEDT.H.E.S BODY SYSTEM by Skeyndor is a revolutionary body remodelling treatment program. Utilising stateof-the art equipment with easy-toapply bands simultaneously combine three technologies with a photoactive cosmetic product activating the different layers of the skin to obtain a global remodelling action. The LEDT.H.E.S BODY SYSTEM combines: • Dynamic Cosmetic Phototherapy to rejuvenate the skin and from the intermediate tissue
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Thermo-stimulation reduces the orange peel appearance of cellulite and stimulates cell metabolism
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Electrostimulation firms muscles and deep tissue and reduces volume.
LEDT.H.E.S BODY SYSTEM by Skeyndor has been created to use together with Slim Drone, the new body line which incorporates the Cosmetic Drone ® technology, the most advanced active ingredient release system currently available. It brings together different technologies to guide the active substances directly to the target cell and releases them where they are needed. Its high cell selectivity make it more effective than other release systems. The combination of these technologies provides a comfortable, yet highly effective treatment that delivers impressive body remodelling results in just a few treatments. The amazing remodelling results through LED T.H.E.S BODY SYSTEM will impress your clients and help them get summer-ready, while supporting your business to continue to grow.
To introduce this system contact Vogue Image Group 03 9821 0033. APJ
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BUSINESS WISDOM
Deb Farnworth-Wood
Monitoring Your Profits One of the most common questions I’m asked by business owners is “how can I keep track of my profitability during the year”. It’s a fair question especially from those in the industry who were trained on the tools and not on the admin. This scenario is certainly not something that’s exclusive to the beauty industry either - back in the UK I was regularly asked the same question by medical professionals and professions allied to medicine who were often overwhelmed by managing their business.
norms are 12-15% COGS, 26-30% salaries and 6-11% rent. In most businesses in this industry the highest outgoings will be Wages, Rent and stock purchases.
The fact is, it isn’t necessary to be an accountant but you do need to have some basic KPI and headline numbers to help you assess performance because in simple terms, there is no point in being in business unless you have more money coming in from sales of products/services than you have going out in wages, cost of goods, expenses and operating costs.
Breaking down your costs to a daily level gives you meaningful information. If your costs are $3000 a day then it’s a no brainer to understand that your sales need to exceed that figure every single day. Share the basics with your staff - make it part of their daily targets (and I mean daily targets as providing monthly targets is the least effective mechanism that I know for driving profit).
A few quick profitability markers include cost of goods, wages and rent as a percentage of fees coming in. Industry
Please direct any questions you would like Deb to answer to info@apanetwork.com.
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These are simple high-level figures and every business owner needs to know them. From there, there are more detailed markers to keep track of including margins, discounts and so on and of course targets for staff revenue. While many salon owners may find finances, spreadsheets, margins and mark-ups boring, stressful or even frightening, they needn’t be. It’s not helpful to only review your finances at year end, which is often a common practice in small businesses. Instead, business owners should assess performance on a regular basis so that corrective action can be taken if necessary to hit targets.
As for the bigger issue of getting to grips with your balance sheet and P&L, invest in some good training. It doesn’t take long but the investment is well worth it. Once you practice and develop a routine to eyeball the numbers you will quickly spot areas of concern. APJ
THE WORLD’S FIRST BODY PHOTOTHERAPHY SYSTEM The combining of advanced technologies Dynamic Cosmetic Phototherapy, Thermal Stimulation, & Electrostimulation. Work together to create a global remodeling action unlike ever before. Created to use with Slim Drone, the new body line which incorporates Cosmetic Drone® technology, developed exclusively by Skeyndor. The professional programs will bring dramatic results to Orange Peel Skin, Overall Volume & Firmness. Visible results in a matter of 3 weeks. Call Skeyndor Australia’s Head Office For More Information 1800 55 45 45
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INDUSTRY REPORT
Official Report 2020 : Creating Open Streams of Borderless Exchange
GLOBAL Beauty Industry SUMMIT Tina Viney THE INAUGURAL OPENSTREAMS GLOBAL BEAUTY INDUSTRY SUMMIT was a landmark event that took place on October 23, 2020 hosted by the Openstreams Foundation, a non-profit organisation dedicated to fostering collaboration and education within the beauty sector. It was sponsored and curated by BEAUTYSTREAMS, the Global Beauty Industry Reference platform.
info@apanetwork.com and I can send you the full report. Reviewing the report I believe it is a must for business owners or managers, but in particular, product companies can gain valuable understanding of global trends that may impact their business direction. The report covers seven specific areas:
While the live event was originally booked to be hosted in New York at the United Nations building, due to COVID-19 the various organisation leaders were individually interviewed over a six-week period. The culmination of the content was then presented at an online event on October 23, 2020 and the final report was sent to each one of us at the end of November. It was my honour to be invited to contribute to the information exchange and address common concerns and to share with others insights into the Australian reality. Participating were 17 national beauty associations and 15 trade show organisations – all key players in the beauty sector who participated in the Summit, dialled in from across the globe. The 2020 Official Report highlights the key findings through the information exchange of this event. In the spirit of open exchange, I would like to offer the complete report to our members or anyone in our industry who would like to access a copy of this report. The report is 32 pages and while I will attempt to summarise some of the key findings here, a more comprehensive understanding of what was presented is summarised in the full report. If you would like a copy please email me at
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Digitalisation: Reshaping Business Practices
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The future of bricks-and-mortar
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Home office work style
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Safety
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Beauty: an essential sector
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Sustainability
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Equality
In this report I would like to briefly highlight some of the key findings from the various sectors of the report. FUTURE OUTLOOK OF TRADE SHOWS: This section, of course, reported findings from the 15 tradeshow organisers including Reed Exhibitions, In-Cosmetics Group, Informa Beauty Exhibitions, Cosmoprof Bologna, Asia and USA as well as Beautyworld Middle East. Key findings indicated that digital technology promises more exciting experiences in the future and in keeping client relationships alive and thriving in between reallive events. There was a lot of talk of hybrid events as the future of exhibitions. This involves the combination of onsite face-to-face benefits with an additional benefit of digital offerings. However, almost all participants said that digital technology cannot replace human-to-human, in-person meetings. “Even with the general feeling among companies in the business world that things may not go back to the way they were before, we’re sure that trade shows and exhibitions are tactile and offer opportunities that simply cannot be reproduced in the digital world, even in the most realistic VR world,” noted Joao Paulo Picolo, CEO, FCE Cosmetique. It was reported that beauty is a very tactile business and buyers want to feel design, want to smell fragrances and want to look at colour with their eyes. However, our own conference experience in Australia was different, due to the extensive demographic and land mass many delegates, particularly in regional areas, were thrilled that an event could be presented digitally, especially as it was an educational conference and not an expo. Within Australia I believe we will see a 50/50 preference to live versus digital trade/conference events. FUTURE OUTLOOK ON RETAIL The crisis has accelerated digitalisation forcing brands and retailers to hasten
their transition to online platforms and underscored that consumers are hungry for in-person interaction. Bricks-andmortar still has an important role to play in beauty. While online retail offers convenience and safety, face-to-face promises luxury, superior experience and discovery. It was reported that online consultation will continue beyond lockdowns, however professional services elevate the beauty experience and enable brands to test novelty and innovation when interacting with their consumers. To compete with the online offerings, it was reported that face-to-face purchase will need to offer hyper-specialisation through well-trained, trustworthy and knowledgeable staff to attract clients who often feel lost in the jungle of online shopping. As consumers are seeking to connect with others, the smaller stores, as opposed to malls and department stores, will appeal to consumers in search of trust and personal connection. * 57% expected that due to the need for human interaction, salespeople will become more important than ever. * 72% of respondents stated that online retail will grow and bricks-and-mortar will decrease. * 84% stated that the main role of the face-to-face store should be to offer consumers sensorial interactive experiences in order to compete with online retail. In essence, the observation was that if salons and clinics wish to survive, they need to step-up and advance the client experience, making it more appealing in terms of information and experience if they are to purchase their products instore as opposed to online. FUTURE OUTLOOK ON SKIN AND PERSONAL CARE Personal care, considered the cornerstone of well-being and self-care was proven to be resilient during the crisis. By contrast, premium skincare was noted as being downtrending as a result of cautious consumer spending. The sizable opportunity forecasted was for personal care to apply the “masstige” principle that is already prevalent in fashion and colour cosmetics. So, what is the “masstige principle?” Masstige (Mass Prestige) marketing is a strategic term for market penetration for premium, but attainable, brands based on brand equity, thus aiming to create brand knowledge, likability, love, and attachment grounded in prestige. It’s about brands repositioning their message and approach to gain greater consumer engagement by becoming more likable and attainable rather than “out-of-reach” of the average budget. Examples are companies like Coach, Godiva, Starbucks and Victoria’s Secret - kind of the ‘average person’s’ affordable indulgence. This whole approach is a marketing strategy as to how a product is perceived. BEAUTYSTREAMS also saw great potential for hyperspecialisation of skincare and personal care. Rather than pursuing the latest fast fad, brands that are synonymous with a particular ingredient or claim will garner trust if they step-up and provide evidence of why their products or ingredients are superior and why the consumer should continue to invest in their products. They stated that as consumers move away from quick trend cycles to a more measurable pace, products will be valued for their quality and efficacy. FUTURE OUTLOOK ON COLOUR COSMETICS Colour cosmetics has been the category most impacted
by the crisis. This was due to the reduced use of makeup during lockdowns, social distancing and mask-wearing. The more elusive, yet very important consideration is how colour cosmetics can instantly boost consumer morale and self-esteem, particularly during the uncertainty of crisis. Psychological well-being plays a crucial role in a lockdown situation. The report also stated that escapism through makeup will become an important part of consumer need. This is leading to the launched of bright, primary colours that are currently on-trend in the upcoming season. However, the non-sustainable, seasonal aspect of low-quality trends will be re-evaluated, as consumers seek selective quality purchases. Eco-friendly packaging solutions will continue to be in highdemand, as we move away from extraneous waste. FUTURE OUTLOOK ON FRAGRANCE The fragrance sector is evolving from its role as a status symbol and tool for self-expression, towards functional fragrances that bring positive emotional benefit and physical wellbeing. In the past, fragrance was a means to communicate with and seduce others. Today, new developments have catapulted the category towards a “fragrance-for-me” approach that inspires new avenues of innovation. For example, scents that balance hormone levels and trigger the production of endorphins or oxytocin offer exciting paths of exploration. FUTURE OUTLOOK ON SAFETY As we emerge from lockdown, the primary aim will be to establish health and safety guidelines to recover consumer trust in the physical shopping experience, as well as the salon/clinic environment. The issue of sustainability, ingredient safety and clean products have come under the spotlight in a greater way since the pandemic as consumers are looking at every aspect of how safety can impact their life. Sanitary measures will become the new normal and will redesign our events in the coming years. APAN’s Pandemic Infection Control program was highlighted and its support by the international safety charter were both praised on a national and global initiative. It was agreed that there is a need for uniform safety standards to be established and implemented and are a priority consideration. It was also agreed that these initiatives are early indicators that safety and transparency will continue to be key industry drivers in the years to come even beyond COVID. FUTURE OUTLOOK FOR ASSOCIATIONS Many agreed that increased cooperation and information exchange will render the global industry stronger and more agile. A lot of growth is going on with information exchange and partnerships. It was envisaged that bridges can be created between companies, promoting matchmaking between ingredient producers and manufacturers and associations were recommended to play a key role in supporting businesses and networks across borders. Regular communication between associations was deemed to be essential. Many also agreed that the crisis has introduced an opportunity to accelerate change in sustainability, to revisit ethics and standards and associations have a big social responsibility to nurture and lead in this area. I am pleased to say that we have forged some excellent international alliances as APAN continues to innovate and provide leadership with problem-solving solutions. We are happy to learn from others, while also refining our own offerings. APJ GLOBAL BEAUTY INDUSTRY SUMMIT REPORT info@apanetwork.com APJ 37
ESSENTIAL OIL
THE CHARM AND BENEFITS OF
Rose Geranium Eva Boyd
THE AROMA OF ROSES IS SO ENCHANTING that it is known to evoke an immediate sense of relaxation and delight, especially for women. The pure essential oil of rose however is frightfully expensive, due to the incredible quantity of petals needed to extract the oil. So, what is the next best thing? Let me introduce to you - Rose Geranium. While rose and rose geranium are not the same flowers; subsequently rose and rose geranium essential oil are not the same oil, although they share many of the same traits and therapeutic properties. As rose oil is so expensive, it is often adulterated or extended by mixing it with rose geranium as their aromas are highly compatible. So, it would be correct to say that rose geranium can be considered the next best thing to authentic rose extract. Having just gone through a gruelling winter with the addition of COVID restrictions, the change of longer, sunnier days is most welcoming for most of us, inviting us to explore the external world again. The smell of the summer breeze and sunlight dancing on nature’s flora, heralds the arrival of a new season with the promise of better days ahead. There is no doubt that each season brings with it, its own unique fragrances and summer flowers are also part of the seasonal charm. One such flower is rose geranium with its burst of colour and aroma that are found in abundance during the summer months. The beauty of essential oils for our industry is that we can capture some of these delights and introduce them to our clients through the use of essential oils in a multitude of ways within our treatment environment. Let’s look at rose geranium and what it brings in terms of benefits and in enhancing the client experience. BOTANICAL PROFILE OF ROSE GERANIUM Rose Geranium is known botanically as Pelargonium graveolens. It belongs to the Geraniaceae plant family and is a perennial shrub with pointy, serrated leaves and small, pink or red, aromatic flowers. Like rose, there are many species and cultivars of geranium (in a variety of colours) but Pelargonium graveolens is generally the species used for aromatherapy purposes.
Pelargonium graveolens var. roseum. Despite sharing virtually all the same qualities, Rose Geranium is the type most often preferred for its scent, as it is reputed to emit the strongest, most superior notes of rose, the floral nuance that contributes to its uplifting effect on the mood. Native to South Africa, Pelargoniums came to be known for having soothing effects on the skin, and thus became popular in traditional medicinal applications. Accordingly, they were used in remedies for burns and other topical ailments. For centuries, they were also largely used to soothe respiratory ailments, such as coughs and tuberculosis, as well as gastritis and dysentery. Over time, Pelargoniums – especially the lemon, rose and peppermint-scented varieties – came to be used as flavouring agents in culinary applications. The Rose Geranium also became a popular ingredient in cosmetics as well as perfumery. In the perfume industry, both Geranium and Rose Geranium oils are often used in conjunction with Rose due to their aromatic compatibility.
Rose Geranium has a rose-like aroma and offers not only many benefits for its use in aromatherapy, but is also very appealing and uplifting to the senses due to its amazing fragrance.
THERAPEUTIC PROPERTIES OF ROSE GERANIUM NERVOUS SYSTEM: Used in aromatherapy applications, the sweet, floral, citrusy nuances of Rose Geranium essential oil’s earthy and herbaceous aroma is known to have a soothing sedative effect that promotes greater feelings of relaxation, emotional stability, and optimism. These balancing qualities make this oil’s crisp scent beneficial for those who may be suffering from fatigue, anxiety, restlessness, tension, and grief. It has been reported that Rose Geranium can also have an uplifting effect. Whether sedative or energizing, it uplifts the mood. This is great news not just for your clients, but also for you the practitioner who is administering the treatment.
There are many different types of geranium which are identified by the botanical name Pelargonium graveolens, however, Rose Geranium’s specific botanical name is
WELLBEING: In terms of overall wellbeing, Rose Geranium antiviral and antifungal activities helps to not only strengthen the immune function, but also soothe ailments of the
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respiratory system by eliminating bacterial infections. As with Rose oil, Rose Geranium is believed to help regulate hormones. Studies also confirm that it helps improve symptoms of menstruation and menopause. SKIN: Used in skincare, Rose Geranium is reputed to balance the skin’s natural oil production, minimise the appearance of enlarged pores and minimise acne-causing bacteria. Rose Geranium enhances and improves circulation and is excellent for dull or mature skin that needs rejuvenating. It is known to help fade scars and soothe sensitive skin. For the body, Rose Geranium will help to reduce the appearance of varicose veins and cellulite due to its positive effect on the circulation. MUSCLES: When used on the body, Rose Geranium can provide a soothing and anti-inflammatory effect for stiff or aching muscles. In fact, when used in body care treatments it is known to encourage the body’s relaxation, deodorize,
promote the faster fading of scars and blemishes, soothe the symptoms of eczema, acne, dermatitis, fungal infections, rashes, and generally rejuvenate the complexion. Used in a natural formula for shampoo, it is known to eliminate lice, calm scalp inflammation and balance oil production to prevent dandruff. Used medicinally, Rose Geranium works as a haemostatic that helps stem the flow of blood when applied to minor wounds, bites, sores and other abrasions (similar to helichrysum). This activity helps to protect against the development of infections, while also helping to speed up the healing process. Additionally, its anti-inflammatory property helps to reduce the discomforts of musculoskeletal ailments and skin conditions characterised by inflammation. It is reputed to function as a diuretic that helps support the body’s lymphatic system, thereby addressing fluid retention, relieving swelling and restoring the proper function of the body’s waste elimination systems to purge bodily toxins.
Aromatic Category
Can smell like...
Rosy
Rose
Citrusy
Orange, Lemon, Lime
Fruity
Strawberry, Apricot, Apple, Coconut
Nutty
Filbert
Minty
Peppermint, Camphor
Pungent
Nutmeg, Spice, Ginger
As illustrated, Rose Geranium essential oil is reputed to have many therapeutic properties. In brief these can be summarised as follows: COSMETIC: Anti-inflammatory, astringent, balancing, rejuvenating. ODOROUS: Balancing, relaxant, deodorant, aphrodisiac, uplifting. MEDICINAL: Analgesic, anti-inflammatory, antifungal, antispasmodic, antiviral, astringent, balancing, cytophilactic, digestive, emmenagogic, vulnerary, diuretic. IN CONCLUSION Without a doubt, Rose Geranium offers not just a pleasurable experience, but also endless benefits for the skin nervous system, lymphatic and circulatory system as well as excellent support in rebalancing the endocrine system. An overall winner, would you not agree? APJ
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SKIN SCIENCE
Examining the Pathogenic Mechanisms of Bacteria Under the Microscope Gay Wardle
BACTERIA IS SOMETHING WE ARE CONSTANTLY SURROUNDED WITH, both good and bad. However, understanding their activity and behaviour is paramount to the prevention of disease, especially when working with the skin. In this article Gay Wardle takes a closer look at the mechanisms of microorganisms, how they invade the body and contributing factors to the transmission of disease.
forms also on teeth and can be problematic as the bacteria is very difficult to control and remove. The bacteria in biofilm creates a physical barrier that prevents immune cells from breaking through. To add to this challenge, biofilm bacteria is less susceptible to antibiotic treatments because of the layers of polysaccharide which protect the bacteria resulting in inflammation, such as we see in inflammatory acne.
Most microorganisms enter the body by way of the mucous membrane, or where there is a break in the skin. This is called the portal of entry, which can be anything from a wound, scratch or simply barrier function that has been compromised in some way.
BACTERIAL TOXINS Toxins are produced by microorganisms and these interfere with the normal functioning of host cells by altering the normal cellular processes. Bacterial toxins can be either exotoxins or endotoxins.
Once microorganisms enter the body, they seek a host to attach themselves to. The host allows them to create damage to that particular tissue and to commence invading other tissues and cells. This is achieved by releasing substances that causes cellular dysfunction. Pathogens that cause disease and damage to cells can then remain localised mostly at the site of entry and the substances they release may circulate through the body. The circulation of these substances will be either via the blood or the lymphatic system. This allows toxic substances to be transported to other parts of the body.
Exotoxins secrete into the host tissue where bacteria are developing and growing. They are heat-liable proteins that continue to release as the organisms grow. Bacteria can produce a single exotoxin, the extent and manifestation of the disease will rely on the action of that toxin, while others produce many toxins. Producing many toxins allows the bacteria to have different effects on the host. Bacteria can also secrete toxins into food. When digested they will continue growing in the host itself.
When a microorganism attaches itself to a host this is call adherence. Most pathogenic organisms that enter the body via mucous membranes must go through this process to create disease. Fibronectin is a protein found on the surface of many human cells and is the receptor through which bacteria, such as Streptococcus, attach themselves to in the upper respiratory tract. The substance on the surface of microorganisms that allows them to attach to cells is called adhesins. These tiny hair-like structures are called pili or fimbria that extend from the surface of a cell. Other bacteria can adhere to cell surfaces by releasing a sticky substance called polysaccharides. Polysaccharides form a network of fibrils that extend from the surface of a cell. Bacteria that secretes polysaccharides form multiple layers called biofilms on the surfaces. Biofilm is a plaque that APJ 40
Exotoxins damage the host cell membrane resulting in cellular death. The membrane becomes more permeable to water and because of the higher solute concentration of the cytoplasm, water rushes into the cell, causing it to swell and rupture. S. aureus and S. pyogenes secrete toxins called leucocidins that destroy macrophages and neutrophils. They do this by releasing lysosomal enzymes into the cytosol of the cell. These lysosome enzymes are normally contained within a membrane but once they are released into the cytosol of the cell, they destroy that cell’s organelles. Lysosomal enzymes released from a dead phagocyte cell can cause further damage to the surrounding tissue. There are bacteria that secrete enzymes to break down tissues, this allows the bacteria to break through membranes
which allows further invasion of the bacteria. Examples are Staphylococci and streptococci, which release enzymes that break down hyaluronic acid and ground substance of nearly all connective tissue making the tissue easier to penetrate. Collagenases and elastase are enzymes that break down the body’s own collagen and elastin proteins. Our skin has its own barrier that protects the body of microbial invasion and infection. This mechanism is achieved as a result of the protein called keratin. Fungi however, are able to infect the skin by secreting keratin-degrading enzymes called keratinase. Other organisms secrete an enzyme called mucinase, which digests glycoprotein in mucous. This enables bacteria to colonise in the mucous membranes. PORTALS OF ENTRY When we look at the many different portals of bacterial entry and how they can invade and cause disease, we can truly marvel. The body will always try to defend itself against local infection by creating a layer of fibrin around an infected site. This layer of fibrin helps to prevent the spread of invading microorganisms into adjacent tissues. Kinases are a group of enzymes that is produced by some bacteria that dissolves fibrin clots, allowing the bacteria to break through. Enzymes produced by streptococci called streptokinase break down fibrin clots by converting plasminogen into the proteolytic enzyme which helps the bacteria to spread and produce disease. Endotoxins are the lipopolysaccharides of cell walls of gramnegative bacteria. As they are a component of the bacterial cell membrane, endotoxins can only be effective once the cell membrane is deteriorated. When there is an infection, lipopolysaccharides can all fall off as the cell grows or are released as older bacterial cells die. Expiration of bacteria and the release of endotoxin can be accelerated once phagocytes begin to digest them.
THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN ENDOTOXINS AND EXOTOXINS There are some very major differences between exotoxins and endotoxins with endotoxins being less toxic and not being able to form into toxoids. Regardless of the source of endotoxins they can cause a variety of responses within the host. Fevers are very common with endotoxins caused by the release of endogenous pyrogens from mononuclear phagocytes. These cytokines that are released create changes to the hypothalamus. The hypothalamus regulates the temperature within our bodies. When the cytokines are released, they reset the temperature set point to a higher temperature level creating a fever. When there are increased amounts of endotoxin released during systemic infection, they can contribute to severe effects on the body. Septic shock is one of those effects that can be in some cases fatal. Endotoxins also release cytokines from many types of cells – monocytes, macrophages and lymphocytes. This action damages blood capillaries where large amounts of fluid leak into the tissues causing a severe drop in blood pressure and the result is shock. Blood coagulation is another disorder that can be caused by endotoxins resulting in thrombosis, which causes tissue necrosis. IN CONCLUSION We need to understand that disease is a complex process. It may be triggered by the activation of just one microorganism, or the response the body has to infection, or to both. Our body is truly a machine that needs to be looked after for our survival. The skin and its barrier function must be supported to help ward-off pathogens from entering the body. There is so much more to write on this topic and I am always fascinated with how our body functions and responds to invasion. APJ
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INDUSTRY REPORT
THE LATEST IN REVOLUTIONARY FACIAL AND BODY REJUVENATION
Non-Surgical Symposium 2.0 – Reimagined Dr Naveen Somia President – Australasian Society of Aesthetic Plastic Surgery (ASAPS)
THE AUSTRALASIAN SOCIETY OF AESTHETIC PLASTIC th SURGERY (ASAPS) presented on the 28-29 November 2020, the leading event for non-surgical aesthetics in Australasia – The Non-Surgical Symposium 2.0 – Reimagined in a virtual format. Delegates had the opportunity to join globally renowned plastic surgeons, cosmetic physicians, dermatologists, ophthalmologists, nurse practitioners, nurse aestheticians and dermal therapists hearing about the latest in ‘appearance medicine’ from injectables, cosmeceuticals, hair restoration as well as the development in laser/light devices and nonsurgical body contouring tools to name a few. As the ASAPS Immediate Past President & NSS Program Convenor I am pleased to report that the 2020 provided ASAPS with the opportunity to offer the NSS as a dynamic virtual Symposium and ensure that the NSS community continues to grow, thrive and improve patient safety through their experience learning from an array of global leading experts. In a year riddled with uncertainty, the certainty of learning and upskilling offered by the NSS was a welcome respite. Over 500 participants including delegates, speakers, sponsors and media attended the event over the two days and participated in lively interaction through polling, Q&A and discussion forums. THE PROGRAM This year's virtual event covered the entirety of the aesthetic spectrum over two days and two streams. World leading experts presented aesthetic treatments covering the following topics:
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Master the Lips
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Body Sculpt, the New Frontier
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Successful Treatment of the Asian Face and Nose
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Laser and IPL – Add Glow to Your Practice
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Latest Advances in Acne, Skin of Colour & Hair Restoration
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Threads – New Techniques and Technologies
th 2021 will celebrate the 10 Anniversary of the NSS and the meeting will revert back to a face-to- face meeting with a hybrid offering for those who wish to attend virtually.
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The Future of Aesthetics
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Master the Periorbital Area
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Combining Cosmeceuticals and Gut Health – Good or Bad? We Present the Evidence and You Decide
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Cutting Edge Body Sculpting & Intimate Rejuvenation
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Filler Complications
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Advanced Uses for Injectables
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Injecting
th Non-Surgical Symposium – 10 Anniversary 11-13 June 2021 Gold Coast Convention and Exhibition Centre APJ
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Master the Lips, Lower Face and Submentum
For further information please visit https://bit.ly/3oQgCtU
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Save the date for 2021: Anatomical Dissection and Cosmetic Procedures Workshop 10 June 2021 MERF Brisbane
“If you can’t explain it simply, you don’t understand it well enough” Albert Einstein
INTRODUCING TWO NEW PROGRAMS Online Study Units
Upskill your knowledge, grow your confidence, enhance your results.
Mentoring Program: Shadowing Gay
An exciting one-on-one mentoring program. Learn the winning protocols to grow your reputation and your business.
If you are a Nurse, Dermal Therapist or a Beauty Therapist wanting to expand your knowledge or returning to the industry, these training programs are for you!
+61 418 708 455 education@gaywardle.com www.gaywardle.com
MENTORING PROGRAM SCHEDULE DAY 1 •
Review questions completed by the work shadow.
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Discuss 7 Habits of Highly Successful Salon Owners
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Gay’s Signature Skin Analysis – the secret weapon
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Learn how this vital step can set you and your client up for successful treatment outcomes
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Skin treatment program
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Prescription of skin products
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Starting point and protocols for tracking progress.
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Work Shadow Gay while she performs treatments on clients
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Lunch provided
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Work Shadow Gay while she performs treatments on clients
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Reflections and check-out
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Question and answer time.
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Written assignment
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Personal development
DAY 2 •
Review learning from the previous day.
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Lunch Provided
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Discuss 7 Habits of Highly Successful Salon Owners – what did you see yesterday?
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Work Shadow Gay while she performs treatments on clients
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Work Shadow Gay while she performs treatments on clients
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Reflections and check-out
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Reflection writing and learning objectives.
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PRODUCT PROFILE
CHI FUSION bringing together Science and Nature KYLIE PASCOE IS A DEDICATED THERAPIST AND AN ASTUTE BUSINESS OWNER with a real passion for helping businesses move forward towards sustainable growth. Having worked with Chi Australia, an innovative Australian-owned skincare range, Kylie was so impressed and passionate about its potential that she decided to invest in purchasing the company. Despite disruptive times due to the current pandemic, Kylie is confident the brand will be well received by salons and clinics due to its multiple benefits and because she believes it will be instrumental in helping salon and clinics achieve excellent skincare results, as well as amazing business growth. Recently, we spoke with Kylie to learn more about this brand and her new venture.
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APJ Q1: Kylie, congratulations on acquiring ownership of the Chi Fusion Professional Product line. Tell us what was your previous experience with this brand? Thank you, yes, I am very excited to be the new owner and distributor of this incredible product. I originally used this brand not only personally, but also in my clinic for nearly four years. I had seen the exceptional results that it could achieve with both personal and professional use. Very quickly I also experienced the increased product sales that I was able to achieve, as a result of clients loving the benefits and difference to their skin. We now have a very loyal clientele who wouldn’t use anything else. Even when I was just a stockist, I became so invested in this brand as I could see the amazing potential for the distribution of this product to other salons or clinics that could also benefit from such amazing results. I was constantly hassling the previous owner about expanding and doing more with the range because it was too good to be kept a secret. I think she got sick of me so she finally sold me the brand. APJ Q2: What are some of the special features and benefits of the product? The brand focuses on using minimal but quality ingredients, while maintaining the integrity and stability of the product. There are no parabens, SLSs, artificial colours or fragrances, therefore limiting irritants. The actives in the range are derived from nature wherever possible, which is where the Chi Fusion name comes from as we have fused science and nature to create the best products available. The range caters to all skin types and can assist with a variety of skin concerns including: mature and ageing skin, acne, scarring, rosacea, eczema/dermatitis and pigmentation concerns. The comprehensiveness of the brand in addressing a wide spectrum, of skin concerns means that salons and clinics don’t need a second or third brand to cater to their clientele.
keep the brand contemporary and attractive to clients. The professional range is very reasonably priced and provides stockists with a variety of treatments as either stand-alone services, or as upsell options. The range includes the new Kojic and Phytic peels which have been yielding amazing results for acne, pigmentation, dry and thickened skin. We will also be launching an aftercare range for post laser, electrolysis and plasma treatments, which should be available by the end of the year. This will include professional and retail size products. APJ Q5: Tell us about your serum range and what are some of the benefit and results you can expect from this range? Our serums are incredible! There are six in the range with two more being formulated with plans to launch them next year. Currently the range consists of: Aqua: Rich in Liquorice, Ceramides and Beta Glucan which soothe, hydrate and help brighten the skin along with Hyaluronic Acid and y-PGA to alleviate dehydration. Vital A+C: A liposome encapsulated system of Retinol, Vitamin C and Amino Acids. It softens and smooths while helping to improve skin firmness. It targets the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, age spots, sun damage and large pores. It is also sensational for acne-prone skins. Glow: Contains 10% B3 which visibly improves enlarged
APJ Q3: In terms of distribution what can businesses expect from introducing the products to their business? Having owned a clinic for nine years I have dealt with so many brands and unfortunately some just don’t live up to their promises. Chi was the third skincare brand I had tried due to one brand selling stock online cheaper than I could match it and the other lacked the ongoing support that they had offered prior to placing a large opening order. None of this will happen with Chi Fusion as our greatest strength will be our support. We offer staff support sheets and training for the products, facial protocols to assist the implementation of treatments and marketing materials. We also offer postcode exclusivity so stockists can rest assured they won’t spend time and money creating a following in their area only to have someone else capitalise on that hard work. Additionally, we are only a phone call, email or even carrier pigeon away if stockists need anything. APJ Q4: Is there a minimum opening order and what mark-up does the product have. With Chi Fusion there is no minimum opening order, as we completely understand the difficulties when introducing a new range. We can also assist a business with what products will work best according to the demographic of their clientele. This will ensure that their investment in our brand will support them with maximum benefit for them as stockists. My philosophy is ‘the more successful the stockist, the more successful the brand will become’, so I will work just as hard to ensure that success. There is 100% mark up on all retail items and prices range from $59rrp to $125rrp. We also have gift with purchase promotions, new products, etc to
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pores, uneven skin tone, fine lines and wrinkles, dullness and an impaired skin barrier. It is a slightly viscous serum and is sensational for all skin types except a true dry rosacea skin. Illuminate: A powerful serum that breaks down the clusters of pigmentation fibres. This slightly viscous serum uses Bearberry, Mantellic Acid and Liquorice to help combat pigmentation, Kakadu Plum for Vitamin C infusion, Vitamin B3 to even skin tone and y-PGA to hydrate. We recommend this serum to all clients to use two weeks prior to any pigmentation treatment, or a series of Kojic peels, to increase the efficacy. Repair: This serum speeds up the skin regeneration and wound healing helping to repair damaged and scarred skin. It will also soften the wrinkles and fine lines, increase the moisture in the skin and smooth out rough and dry skin. This is a favourite as the results for damaged skin are amazing. Renew: Helps tighten the cell connections improving skin firmness by stimulating collagen and elastin production due to the substantial amount of marine collagen, wheat extract and multi-peptides in the formula. Renew effectively restores skin elasticity and increases skin cell renewal. This serum used during the day in combination with Vital A+C at night is fabulous for anti-ageing. Our Aqua, Repair and Renew serums can also be used with skin needling to increase their efficacy and maximise skin treatment results. For all our wholesale customers we support them with comprehensive protocols to assist in gaining maximum benefits to their treatments. We even have a small number of CIT pens available as an introductory special for new stockists. I am extremely excited and passionate about Chi Fusion as I am confident in what the brand can do both for skin treatment results as well as helping boost business performance. I am so looking forward to the brand’s progress in the next five years. APJ We would love to hear from potential stockists who would like to experience how Chi Fusion help their clients and business and consider how it can create a great addition to their salon or clinic. Please contact Kylie Pascoe at CHI AESTHETICS 1300 033 244 info@chiaustralia.com
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Blending Science & Nature We have developed clinical-strength prescriptive skincare formulations that deliver results through evidence-based ingredients with a focus on efficacy and safety. Chi Fusion will help you grow your business with confidence.
Proudly Australian Owned Kylie Pascoe 1300 033 244 info@chiaustralia.com
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A PA N
AESTHETICS C ONE RE NCE
2021
Following the success of the 2020 ONLINE AESTHETIC CONFERENCE APAN will once again launch the online educational event. Over 90% of delegates indicated that they gained exceptional value from the online conference and were supportive of another similar event in 2021. Delegates will be able to access and revisit the sessions at their convenience for 30 days. Plans for 2021 are already in motion to expand on the topics of your choice. The event will present an exciting and comprehensive educational content featuring world-class national and international authorities and experts to share their knowledge on a diverse range of topics. An additional face-to-face conference event will be staged in Queensland, pending permission. If you are serious about your profession and business this event will provide you comprehensive, leading, up-to-date industry knowledge.
REGISTRATION APAN MEMBERS $249 Staff $12ea NON-MEMBERS $299 Staff $14ea
WHO SHOULD ATTEND:
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Cosmetic tattooists
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Aestheticians
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Trainers
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Dermal therapists
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College principals and staff
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Dermal clinicians
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Students
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Cosmetic Medicine practitioners
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Industry suppliers
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Cosmetic nurses
THIS PROGRAM WITH FEATURE 30 LECTURES INCLUDING
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Social Media education
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Cosmetic tattooing advances
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New equipment technology
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Injectable techniques and strategies
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Ingredient science
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Global Trends and industry advances
New modalities to expand your consumer reach
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Regulation updates
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Updates to the Wellness Revolution
Personal development – achieving the winning mindset
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Winning Business strategies in the postCOVID era
This is a certified professional development event and will secure delegates 15 CPD Points. APJ 48
Register Today
info@apanetwork.com APJ 49 www.apanconf.com
COSMETIC TATTOO
Antonella Tammaro, MD
TATTOOS & PIERCING: A timeless practice and its risks PROFESSOR ANTONELLA TAMMARO is a dermatologist, researcher and lecturer in skin and venereal diseases at the Department of Dermatology Sant'Andrea General Hospital, Sapienza University, Rome, Italy, and is also a specialist in Aesthetic Dermatology as well as Allergologic Dermatology. This is an abstract from a recent research paper that investigated the risks association with various pigments and risks associated with the practice of tattooing and piercing. Authors: Antonella Tammaro, Ganiyat Adenike Ralitsa Adebanjo, Camilla Chello, Francesca Romana Parisella, Prabneet Reen, Gabriella De Marco, Dermatology Department, Sapienza University of Rome, Italy, Faculty of Medicine, Queensland University, Brisbane, Australia. INTRODUCTION The social meaning of practices like piercing and tattooing have been evolving throughout the centuries. in fact, they have been associated with
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religion, loyalty to a community leader, bravery and health. Recently, they have been identified as symbols of belonging to certain groups, rebellion and deviancy. Piercing and tattooing are extremely popular among younger individuals and because of their diffusion it is important to raise awareness of the risks associated to them and provide medical regulations to the tattoo artists. DEFINITIONS Body piercing is the practice in which metal objects like nails, rings, spheres and pins are inserted into the skin, or other body part (tongue, lips, nose, ear lobes, eyebrows, nipples, genitals, etc.). The healing of the piercing occurs in two phases: at first the hole stops producing exudate and stabilises itself and then it becomes an integral part of the body. Tattoos are considered permanent modifications of the skin, which are obtained through the application
of pigments under the epidermis with puncturing devices. Hence, tattooing may be used for the correction of defects, for example, vitiligo, eyebrow alopecia, etc, or the reconstruction of body structures such as nipple areola, facial asymmetries caused by surgery or trauma. Interestingly, tattooing must be differentiated from micropigmentation. In fact, the former is characterised by the insertion of coloured pigment in the dermis, while the latter is associated with the insertion of pigment in the basal layer of the epidermis. Semi-permanent make up is yet another technique, which must be distinguished from tattooing as its effect lasts only between 15 and 20 days. Because of the abovementioned reasons, tattoo removal is associated with a number of issues, such as scarring, the length and cost of the procedure and pain. The methods of removing tattoos that were used in the past relied on the destruction of the tattooed area leading to the formation of large scars and chromatic anomalies. Luckily, the recent introduction of tools like Q-switched lasers allows for better results to be obtained. Nevertheless, multiple laser sessions are needed and the results may vary. Usually, older monochromatic tattoos are the easiest to remove. ADVERSE REACTIONS Both systemic and local complications may be associated with tattooing and piercing and they may be caused by multiple factors: the inexperience of the operator and the use of inadequate tools are some of them. Moreover, other factors may be the use of contaminated instruments and allergic reactions.
reaction, especially when it is necessary to make the distinction between foreign body granulomas and allergic granulomas. LOCAL REACTIONS Pigments may derive from mineral, vegetal or animal substances. Metal compounds are also used such as mercury, chromium, copper, cobalt, manganese and iron oxide salts are some examples. Red pigment. This is the pigment that has been associated with the most adverse events so far. It the past, it used to be made from cinnabar, which contains mercury sulphate and has had been associated with the majority of side effects. Alternative forms of red pigment currently in use are sienna/ red ochre, sandalwood and brazilwood. Yellow pigment. The pigment that was used the most in the past was cadmium sulphate. Cadmium sulphate is harmless at low concentrations, but it can trigger irritative and phototoxic reactions after light exposure. Hence, nowadays there are other alternatives, like ferric oxide hydrate or lemon yellow. Blue pigment. It is made with cobalt salts and it can cause allergic reactions in individuals who have predisposing factors. Moreover, cobalt is a potentially toxic substance. Black pigment. Adverse reactions may occur because of Pelikan 17 black, which is considered safe as it is used in medical tattoos in endoscopy and radiotherapy. It is made with Indian ink, iron oxide and titanium oxide. Patch tests may be negative even in the presence of abnormal reactions.
Bleeding, loss of tissues and organ rupture may occur when piercing is performed on the tongue, urethra and nipple.
Gold pigment. This pigment rarely causes allergic reactions, however adverse incidents have been reported such as granulomatous, lichenoid and allergic reactions.
The most common bacterial infections associated to tattooing are the ones caused by Staphylococcus aureus and Pseudomonas aeruginosa. However, warts have been reported as well.
Pigments are diluted in suspensions, which contain alcoholic and glyceride solvents that are FDA approved. Ethylene glycol is forbidden as it is toxic and dangerous. In Australia, these pigments are currently under review for their safety profile.
Foreign body granulomas may form as a reaction to colored pigments and metal objects.
Ammonia, formaldehyde and glutaraldehyde should not be used as they cause protein breakdown and may induce cutaneous necrosis.
People with psoriasis and lichen ruber planus should be evaluated carefully before tattooing or piercing as they may develop unusual skin reactions. For example, the so-called Koebner phenomenon is a mechanism which highlight the predisposition of such individuals to develop lesions typical of their disease after a spontaneous or provoked stimulus. Adverse reaction may not only be induced by pigments and metals, but also by disinfectants and latex gloves used by the artist. Interestingly, adverse reactions may be non-allergic, like irritant contact dermatitis and lichenoid reactions, or allergic like allergic contact dermatitis and systemic eczematous reactions. Contact urticaria and granulomatous reactions may have either an allergic or non-allergic etiology. Needles and other metal objects may induce physical urticaria and allergic contact dermatitis or granulomas, which are the most common. The analysis of the pigments contained in tattoos is important to understand the components of each colour and to predict possible allergic reactions. Biopsy is a useful tool to determine the type of adverse
SYSTEMIC REACTIONS Tattooing and piercing are practices which may potentially allow the transmission of pathogens through the bloodstream. The transmission of hepatitis B and C is an important public health issue because of the popularity of tattooing and piercing: in fact, a lot of case reports have been published in the medical literature. Hepatitis may be transmitted through the use of unsterilised tools which have been shared among costumers and contaminated ink. The use of instruments that have not been sterilised increases the risk of HIV transmission as well. CONCLUSIONS Given all the potential adverse reactions associated with tattooing and piercing and the popularity of these practices, caution should be taken before getting tattooed or pierced. All the measures necessary to ensure the safety of the person being tattooed or pierced should be implemented, including using sterile equipment. Moreover, tattoos and piercings should be monitored correctly during the healing phase and beyond. APJ
COMPANY PROFILE
The Evolution of a New-generation Brand An interview with Dr Donna Lee Marçal, PhD
Australian made and owned DERMATONICS step-up their formulations to provide much-needed support to clinics during COVID-19. CHANGE IS AN ESSENTIAL ELEMENT OF PROGRESS. It is necessitated as part of adaptation in order to meet with constantly changing market needs, even more so, with the current disruption brought about by the pandemic. One company that has made some positive moves in support of clinics is Dermatonics. We caught up with Dr Donna Marçal, owner and formulator of the brand to find out how these changes have better served their salon and clinic partners. APJ Q1: Donna, since COVID, the interest in DERMATONICS has actually increased, tell us in what way the brand is more adaptable to the changing consumer behaviour?
retail sales up while they couldn’t perform treatments. Not only during this time, we are always listening to the needs and requirements of our clinic partners so we can respond and develop products that will help them with their clients. Several Dermatonics products have come to market as a result of the amazing feedback and discussions we have had personally with our clinic partners. APJ Q2: What are some of the key competitive advantages of Dermatonics as a salon and clinic brand, where are you finding it is providing excellent solutions for businesses?
We found that once business owners settled into having their businesses closed, many were reassessing their businesses and the skincare ranges they offered. Consumers and businesses were looking to support Australian businesses more than ever. For these reasons, and the reputation we had built, we experienced a big increase in new enquiries about our range. Our existing clinic partners are truly wonderful in recommending our range. As a result, we have grown quite a bit as a business during this crazy year.
We support all kinds of businesses, including qualified therapists that are operating from home. Especially with the effects of COVID, this influenced some businesses to bring their business to a home-based business environment. We fully support those therapists not working in a 'shop front' and also really help those businesses that start small and grow as they and their clients start implementing our brand. We appreciate that bringing on a new skincare range, or changing a skincare range can be a big deal and sometimes quite a prohibitive investment. This even goes for larger shop front businesses. We allow clinic partners to introduce our range at a pace that is comfortable for them. We are also a relatively new skincare brand to the industry and therefore we are a refreshing and new range that not every salon or clinic will have in an area. This imparts a bit of exclusivity when a clinic takes on our range. We are a registered, Australian-made skincare brand, with natural actives and without harsh chemicals, as well as clinic-exclusive, which ticks many boxes that clinic owners seek.
My husband (Dr Helder Marçal) and I are the formulators of our products. This is one of the reasons we are quite easily able to adapt to what needs to change in response to industry demands. This was quite relevant for this current year. We were easily able to adapt and bring to market some key retail products that allowed clinics to retail home care kits, while everyone was in lockdown. This gave our clinics additional tools for them to support their clients and help keep their
As the founders of Dermatonics, we are also the formulators. This gives us an advantage in developing our products and also our clinic partners truly enjoy that their products are formulated by medical scientists with a real understanding of the body and how cell signalling pathways work and how our products can support this, both in the short-term and in the long-term goals for addressing skin concerns. Our formulas provide them with results-based solutions for their clients.
When everyone was ordered to lockdown on March 25 this year, of course we were devastated and wondering what this would do for our business. We had confidence in the groundwork we had done over the past four years to build our brand and our reputation. Especially once lockdown hit, we put a lot of effort into our existing clinics, providing them support and online education.
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APJ Q3: We believe that the delivery system and purity of the ingredients of Dermatonics are quite unique to other brands out there, can you please shed some light? Yes, we use a unique, relatively uncomplicated and very effective formulation to provide results-driven solutions. Our products are often quite different to what many clinics and clients have used in the past. The reason being, they absorb very well and won’t just sit on the surface of the skin. Using our in-house Nutridermaceutical® Technology, our formulation base helps deliver nutrients and actives ‘Nutri’ into the deeper skin layers ‘derma’ to impart their health promoting effects ‘ceutical’. We do this using natural molecules that our body is used to. This helps facilitate effective product absorption. In addition to a unique technology that helps our products absorb, we strive to use the purest of active ingredients. We use a technology (that both myself and my husband used during our years of medical research) called Supercritical Fluid Extraction. This is a very green technology, which is so important for our environment, that is also very gentle on the active itself thus ensuring the maintenance of its active molecules. This technology allows us to provide an ultra-pure active ingredient that is nearly eliminated of trace harmful chemicals, toxins and heavy metals that can exist in the soil, water table and air that the plants breathe. Conventional methods of extraction do not facilitate the elimination of trace elements and contaminants, without also damaging the active molecules. Our unique formulation technologies and also supply of ultrapure actives is one of the reasons our products work very well for the skin, while also being gentle, nourishing and helping repair the skin barrier. APJ Q4: You recently introduced starter packs – what is included in these and how can businesses use these to introduce new clients to the product? Our new starter kits (introduced mid 2020) include trial sizes of key products that are targeted for specific skin goals. Each of these kits contains enough product to last approximately 2-3 weeks. At the moment we have four starter kits and these will be expanded to five by early 2021. These include: •
Dermatonics Clearskin® Starter Kits (we have two to
address different grades of breakouts) •
Skin Brightening Starter Kit (to help manage skin with hyperpigmentation)
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Calm & Hydrate Kit (replacing our current Hydration & Antioxidant Kit) to help skin that is dry/dehydrated or also prone to eczema or rosacea
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Anti-Ageing Starter Kit that will include all the key amazing products to help boost antioxidants and collagen production to help fight the signs of ageing.
These kits allow new clients to experience our products for a couple of weeks prior to investing in full sizes of the products that are key for their skin goals and to complement their inclinic professional treatments. This also allows them to start seeing the benefits and improvements in their skin over the first 1-2 weeks. For new clinics taking on our range, these kits are a fantastic and affordable addition to their retail range in order to start implementing Dermatonics products and introduce them into their clients’ homecare. Additionally, these kits make really great travel kits for their existing clients. APJ Q5: Tell us about your new Copper Peptide Spray, what are its benefits and what skin type is it suited to? Our Copper Peptide Calming Spray was formally introduced to our range in early 2020. We developed this product as a tool for our clinic partners to use in their treatments. This mist is really great at calming this skin, and therefore is fabulous for applying to the skin post laser or facials where the skin may be slightly sensitive. The key ingredient in this mist is a small tripeptide (glycylL-histidyl-L-lysine) that is complexed to copper. The GHK peptide is present in the human body, however, as with many molecules, it decreases with age. Several research studies have shown its amazing benefits at assisting wound healing, promoting collagen synthesis, improving skin elasticity and calming inflammation, just to name a few. It was so popular in the clinic and we could see so many benefits that we also launched it as an at home skincare product, particularly for those clients that suffer from eczema and rosacea. It has been a highly welcomed addition to our range and now central to both the in-clinic treatment protocols and homecare prescriptions. APJ
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SKINCARE
THE SYNERGY OF NATURAL BOTANICALS WITHIN CLINICAL FORMULATIONS An interview with Michelle Reeve IN A SPACE WHERE AESTEHTICS HAS BEEN THE TRADITIONAL MODEL for skin and body treatments, we are currently witnessing a rapid health-focused renaissance. Skincare has become a ritual of self-care. People are becoming more conscious of what they are applying to their skin and why — questioning ingredient listings, brand philosophies and how (and where) the products they apply to their skin are actually made. In turn, the skin and beauty industry has seen a demand from consumers for skincare that combines looking after their skin as a key part of a holistic approach to their wellness. These consumer considerations have been further heightened by COVID-19, with a renewed interest in how we look after our skin, and how to effectively combine wellness in the skincare they use at home, and in the spa and salon services they invest in. But, how exactly do we make wellness the cornerstone of skincare? And, what are the elements that transform a spa treatment into a ritual of healthy wellbeing? To answer these questions, we approached Michelle Reeve – owner and formulator of Waterlily Skin, Body Spa to share with us her knowledge and experience and how her brand has addressed the crossover to better meet the ever-growing consumer expectations. “The answer to how to make wellness the cornerstone of skincare is very much the focus of Waterlily,” Michelle confirmed. “Waterlily is a professional clinical brand that was launched in 2004. It was these questions about embedding wellness into skincare that we set out to answer 15 years ago. Today, the brand includes the WATERLILY, SPACEUTICALS and AROMA THERAPY and LIME CAVIAR Collections stocked in leading day spas in Australia and New Zealand and used by people at home in their self-care rituals right around the world. Instead of the commonly held remedial aesthetic approach, the Waterlily philosophy is about strengthening dermal resilience of the skin through nutritionally-complex formulations, to activate skin with clean and green cosmeceuticals synergised with precious botanical actives. This ethos has given rise to a revolutionary age-proofing skin solution; an authentic wellness brand that delivers real results. Michelle Reeve, Waterlily founder and formulator, explains, “Stress and inflammation are the precursors to ageing and disease. How we experience our rituals and
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products directly impacts our wellbeing. The opportunity to combat stress through thoughtful touch points and authentic aromatherapy within our treatment delivery directly influences our body chemistry and in turn affects cortisol, inflammation and other indicators of stress”. The Future Laboratory Report states that, “growing health concerns over synthetic chemicals are turning consumers away from mass produced, over-processed cosmetics and towards fresh, small-batch concoctions with ingredients that address their safety concerns and avoid the need for harmful preservatives.” With this, global trends indicate that the beauty movement is adopting these same mindful green slow food behaviours to ingredient selection and preparation. “We want to know not only what is in our products, but where these ingredients have come from, and how they were extracted. Ultimately people want to know the story behind how their skincare has been manufactured, to align with the values of these companies,” Michelle explains. NOT JUST ABOVE FLUFF AND PAMPERING Clinical-grade aromaceuticals provide the cornerstone of each of Waterlily’s formulations. The therapeutic value of these concentrated actives, serve as a remedial approach to skin indications, while the aromatic touchpoints activate deep relaxation.
Waterlily formulations optimise with nutrient rich botanicals, ensuring the skincare and treatment rituals intensify results at every opportunity. NEXT-GEN COSMECEUTICALS The most recent addition to the Waterlily range is SPACEUTICALS, a collection that integrates clean and green cosmeceuticals with omega rich botanical bases to provide an anti-ageing corrective solution while age-proofing with naturopathic infusions of botanical nutrients. At the heart of the SPACEUTICALS collection is a meticulous selection of advanced cosmeceutical actives in clinically trialled concentrations captured in a blend of powerful phytoactives. Think resveratrol to boost collagen, skin perfecting niacinamide in concentrations as high as 15%, coenzyme Q10 to reverse wrinkles, alpha lipoic acid to protect against ageing and oxidation, folic acid for DNA repair, stabilized Vitamin C for connective tissue, Heptapeptide-7 and Granactive Retinoid for anti-ageing, AHA’s and BHA’s to refine and resurface, along with anti-ageing vitamins, probiotics, and the list goes on!
It’s important to note that a holistic approach to treatment rituals isn’t about fluff and pampering. A holistic approach engages the parasympathetic nervous system to activate transformational change, both topically and internally. Returning to the traditional way to deliver these results through touch and massage elevates the body’s rest and digest responses to transform from the inside out.
INGREDIENT SYNERGY A wellness formulation means activating all of the formulation with nutrient-rich ingredients. Niacinamide serums are a great example. Instead of just focusing on delivering a stand-alone active, for example Vitamin B3, SPACEUTICALS dispenses niacinamide with synergistic skin identical actives that amplify the benefits. Their niacinamide formula includes N-acetyl glucosamine and hyaluronic acid. Then instead of water and glycerine, the base is optimised with healing aloe vera and lavender hydrosol. To reinforce the synergy of the cosmeceuticals, therapeutic botanicals reinforce the benefits, think licorice to inhibit tyrosine, milk thistle to promote brightness and lime caviar naturally rich in L-ascorbic acid along clinical grade aromaceuticals.
FIRST, DO NO HARM Waterlily has a Hippocratic wellness philosophy that embraces a naturopathic approach to the skin, where prevention is hailed over cure. The formulations focus on building resilience in the skin, to promote and repair barrier function, protect the skin pH and minimise inflammation. Inflammation is the precursor to indications like acne, rosacea and ageing disorders. Naturopathy celebrates an ‘age-proofing’ solution that negates the need for invasive correctives. By nourishing skin with an intense dose of antioxidants, vitamins, essential fatty acids, omega rich oils, enzymes, proteins and minerals, skin is luminous.
THE ROLE OF COMMUNITY Health doesn’t happen in a vacuum. We see this reflected globally in the centenarian blue zones; community is key when considering health and longevity. Waterlily recognises the powerful impact of support and collaboration. This is one of the many reasons leading salons and destination day spas choose to partner with the brand. In turn, Waterlily Spa Partners invest in their communities, creating and holding space for their guests. Touch, care and connection are key pillars of wellbeing, and unsurprisingly first principles of Waterlily.
FRESH BATCHED BEAUTY Every product is handcrafted in Brisbane in their Botanical Laboratory. Formulations are created in house by founder and formulator Michelle Reeve, then her paddock to plate ethos underlies the artisanal hand-crafting approach to manufacturing. Each product is created fresh each month. It’s a breathtaking slow skincare approach that’s vastly different to anything else on the market; a slow skincare anecdote infused with care and love. The opposite to mass production.
“Michelle and the team at Waterlily provide unwavering business support from practical digital content in a changing beauty landscape, to consistently accessible guidance from skilled business development experts,” explains Rachel McNeil, owner of Heart Space Beauty in Brisbane.
CLEAN AND GREEN BEAUTY Think about your diet. The complexity of vitamins, minerals, trace elements, amino acids, protein, enzymes, antioxidants, omega rich fatty acids which fill a plate to optimise health. “Considering skin is our largest organ, it’s surprising how relaxed we are exposing it to an abundance of synthetic chemicals. The kind that we would never be comfortable ingesting from our dinner plate.” Michelle explains, “And while these ingredients may not be bad for us, it’s more that they lack nutrition and benefit. It’s the opportunity cost of actionpacking our cosmeceutical formulation with nutrient rich botanicals essential to intensify results.”
Another beautiful example of this community approach is Waterlily’s partnership with the Wellness Tourism Summit, hosted in Noosa, Queensland in March 2021. The summit will bring together like-minded people to share, learn, engage and expand the conversation of what wellness travel can be — a conversation of which spa and beauty business holders are key stakeholders in. As custodians of wellness for 15 years now, Waterlily continues to return to their heartfelt heritage in the face of new technology, trends and ingredients to ensure that the values of health, holding space, and connection stay at the forefront of each product and spa ritual. APJ Waterlily www.waterlilyskinbodyspa.com.au | +61 7 3390 3988
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SOCIAL MEDIA
Trish Hammond Plastic Surgery Hub
Is Your Digital Marketing Up to Scratch & Ready for a Successful 2021?
IN BUSINESS OUR PRIMARY FOCUS is how to get our clients through the door. To achieve this, we need to realise the potential benefit of the huge audience available to us through the online marketplace. To maximise your client acquisition, you need to be sure that your digital presence is up to scratch. TRISH HAMMOND is considered a leading expert in helping businesses establish winning strategies for growth in the area of Social Media. In this article she shares the most important key areas you need to master to achieve success in 2021. As you prepare to face the new year, here are the four must-haves to help you boost your SEO, your organic traffic, your social media, and your leads: WEBSITE – this is really the key foundation that will help to generate leads for your business, so if it’s not up to scratch, this is a good place to start. Make sure your website is working for you, and if not, get help to make sure it is! Ask yourself these questions, and if you need help, reach out: •
Does your website need help for fast-paced communication through the various online social media outlets?
•
Is your content engaging enough to attract your target audience and lead them to become your clients?
•
Are you using social media and digital marketing in an effective way?
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CONTENT – do you have a content strategy? You need to be sure you have a plan and strategy in place for creating content, and then sticking to it. Consistency is key here. Blogging is one of my favourites, and it’s not hard to do. It can be as simple as talking, recording, then transcribing and editing it – blog done! And of course, once you’ve done your blog, you can repurpose the blog to posts for Instagram, Facebook, Google My Business, and any other social platforms you choose to use. You might even get creative and turn it into a video. Think outside the box and have fun with this. SOCIAL MEDIA – we all know there is a strong correlation with social media and improving your SEO. First, choose the social media platforms you decide you want to use. I always recommend keeping them to a minimum and doing them well. Once again consistency is key here. You want to be sure you have a regular posting schedule, and make sure you include the fun stuff like creating stories and reels. It gives potential clients an inside look into your clinic. You can share information about team members, staff birthdays, the fun moments and anything that is going to help people to connect with you. You may want to consider getting an agency (like ours) to help you with this. Don’t think you can outsource your social media and press set and forget. It’s a team effort so be prepared to consistently communicate with your social media agency on a regular basis. ADS – these days most social platforms run on the pay-to-play system, so we can’t stress the importance of doing ads. Be prepared to have ads knocked back, so it may take a while to get your head around doing ads. Successful online marketing helps increase traffic to your website, your social media platforms and that will lead to an increased return on investment. If you need help, feel free to get in touch with me trish@trishhammond.com APJ
LACTIC CLEANSER 10% L-lactic acid blended with fermented papaya, licorice and apple enriched with neroli, cypress and grapefruit.
CELL THERAPY A multi-vitamin infusion boosted with coenzyme Q10, alpha lipoic acid and botanicals to energise skin cells.
A professional clinical brand born form a naturopathic approach to skin where health is at the heart of each formulation. The philosophy focuses on strengthening dermal resilience through nutritionally complex formulations, clean cosmeceuticals and precious botanical actives. The result is a revolutionary age-prooďŹ ng
PHYTO-B3 SERUM Professional strength niacinamide formulated in a superfood skin smoothie to deliver the ultimate anti-ageing skin perfector.
skin solution. An authentic wellness brand delivering real results. www.waterlilyskinbodyspa.com.au or call +617 3390 3988 APJ 57
BUSINESS
SECURITY AND CYBER PROTECTION
Is your business and client confidential information secure? Professor Terry Everitt
HOW SECURE ARE YOUR COMPUTER SYSTEMS AND ALL THAT IT HOLDS? Most importantly, how safe are your client records. Departing from his usually scientific evidence-based topics, Terry ventures in the area of cyber security, and keeping your clients’ records safe. As we rely more on computerisation of information flow, so does the risks to that flow increase. Many make it easy for the information flow to be hacked by a lack of security around the information holding or transfer. It has been said there are two types of organisations: those who know they have been hacked and those who do not. Nearly every day there is news about a hacked company, regardless of size (Ozkya, E. 2019. Cybersecurity. Packt Publishing). The Australian Competition and Consumer Commission (ACCC) identified a loss of over $634 million to cyber scams in 2019. However, the real cost has industry estimating a figure of over $29 billion lost to cyber-crime with malicious cyber activity increasing in frequency, scale, and sophistication. The Australian Cyber Security Centre (ACSC) reported in the last financial year (July 2019 and June 2020) that there were in Australia 2,266 major cybersecurity incidents. More importantly, they received 59,806 cyber-crime reports at an average of 164 cybercrime reports per day. That is one reported incident every ten minutes. Nobody knows the real number of incidences as many are not reported, particularly from individuals or small businesses. MALWARE AND PHISHING EMAILS Malware is almost anything that is malicious to computer information and comes in forms such as viruses, worms, trojans, spyware. Generally, they come in the form of links in emails; however, many now are embedded in apps and websites pages. APJ 58
Almost anyone can create malware, needing only computer technical skills, with many methods available on the dark web to use against you. They are not really after you personally, it is just their business to get into your business. There are two main types termed Phishing and Spearphishing within emails. These are the standard ways criminals access your details. The difference used to be that phishing campaigns targeted hundreds, if not thousands of recipients at a time. I am sure you have had an email from a solicitor advising the death of a long-lost friend who has left you lots of money or perhaps the Nigerian prince who just happened to pick you from all the other people in the world to leave their fortune with. Spearfishing is targeted to a specific individual (be a person or organisation), usually high net worth assets and the email detail is more sophisticated. Sometimes, they have blurred together, so we talk of phishing (the ‘ph’ pronounced as an ‘F’, appropriate as they do go fishing), although some refer to this now as Whale phishing. Much more sophisticated than previous, they may appear from your bank, an insurance company, government agencies in fact, anywhere. They are using the real entity’s branding and logo, asking you to contact them by clicking a provided link or downloading an attachment which has malware within it. Government agencies and large companies will not ask you to confirm your details via email so always be super suspicious if the email asks you to, no matter how real it looks. Also, they will not ask you for money to pay an outstanding debt by clicking a link. Now, of course, it is not only emails – with more technology, there are more ways to get you to give your information, even without you knowing of it via SMS, social media, instant messaging, and such. Please do not click on links from such
“When a health service provider collects health information, they should make sure you understand why they are collecting it, how they will store and protect it, and if there are other parties, they may disclose it to. They can tell you this verbally or in writing – it’s often included on forms you fill out.A health service provider must also have a privacy policy that tells you how they handle health information. You can ask for your health service provider’s privacy policy at any time”. https://bit.ly/2JJl5Qc
messages, as it will connect your information to other search engines who will target you. A couple of years ago, Google staring going all through all the apps that could be downloaded to test for any spyware and they found significant numbers and had them deleted; however, you may still be using some of them. The Australian Cyber Security Centre has a quiz to take to see how aware you are regarding scam emails. https://www. cyber.gov.au/acsc/view-all-content/programs/stay-smartonline/scam-messages RANSOMWARE Possibly the most damaging is ransomware, which allows for a high-reward, low-risk situation for the cybercriminal. Again ransomware ‘kits’ are available on the dark web so it is not so difficult to set up. These ‘do it yourself’ kits would not be enough to take on a significant bank; perhaps, however, most small businesses, which are becoming the most significant target area, are unprepared to deal with ransomware attacks. Most ransomware encrypts a user’s files not to be opened, then demand a ransom to restore access. Bitcoin has become the ransom payment of choice due to the anonymity of the transaction. However, if this is the case, it is recommended not to pay the ransom as many have found post-payment, the files are not released. UPDATING YOUR COMPUTER A most effective way of protection is having all your computerising devices updated and having this set on automation rather than manual to ensure currency. Such updating includes the computer and accessories such as a printer, routers, and other web devices. All software needs to be current against all threats. Make sure you still have support for your computer soft and hardware. You do not want to be running anything that has reached ‘End of Support’.
If you transfer any information between your computer and another device (like your phone), everything needs updating including current anti-malware protection. Of course, be very careful of ‘free wi-fi’ areas as most do not have encryption of data transfer so anyone can copy and interpret your data as it goes across this unsecured space. If you need to use these, it is sensible to have a VPN (Virtual Private Network). However, these are not without risks as they do not provide total security either for there are VPN servers or VPN services to complicate the issue. Constant secure backup of all data is also essential, ideally simultaneously; however, that has risks if the transfer is not secured in the encryption used to transfer the information. MULTI-FACTOR AUTHENTICATION Multi-Factor Authentication (MFA) requires a second form of identification beyond a logon password or pin. Most of you would be aware of two-factor authentications (2FA) where the site sends you a code via email or your phone to input. The more secure you need the information, the more factors you can use so perhaps you get a code sent and then put in a second password (also sent) and then use facial recognition, fingerprint, or retinal identification. All nowadays easily arranged (at a price point) with current technology. A straightforward method uses a phrase or sentence rather than a password (your business’s name is not an excellent idea for this purpose). And much more comfortable to remember than a string of random characters and numbers. You need this easy to remember yet hard to crack, such as I do not like late clients! This phrase has 22 characters (26 with spaces), with an apostrophe, blank spaces, and exclamation mark. YOUR WEBSITE Your website better supports HTTPS (Hypertext Transfer Protocol Secure), which uses encryption to increase data APJ 59
transfers’ security and privacy, rather than HTTP, which does not use encryption. Many web browsers already mark non-HTTPS websites as “not secure” in the URL bar. Others, put up a window advising that they cannot guarantee the site is secure – you do not want this to happen to your prospective clients – their first experience of your place, your website, is seen as not safe thus possibly being vulnerable to attack or that their information may not be secure. You will not know this, of course, as they will not be in contact with you. Does your web host keep you up to date? Do they send you information about how they have updated your security – not only your website, but also any plug-in used. Having updated security with all your information devises is essential, but also so that you also comply with a few legislative Acts in law to make sure you do keep your client information secure. LEGALITIES Any business that stores and use personal information has a legal obligation to protect that information. This obligation commences as information is gathered or retrieved, to the point when that information is securely destroyed. Such law comes under the Office of the Australian Information Commissioner (OAIC) control. Each state also has an Office of the Information Commissioner (sites at the end of the article). While all are under the Privacy Act 1998, almost every State and Territory has enacted their Privacy Acts. Many are specific to health records, such as NSW Health Records and Information Privacy Act 2002; ACT Health Records (Privacy and Access) Act 1997; VIC Health Records Act 2001. PRIVACY ACT1998 Generally, the Privacy Act 1998 (current compilation 84, dated July 29, 2020) covers any organisation with a turnover of $3 million or more a year. However, there are exceptions to small businesses operators that earn less than this 3 million; one being a private health sector service provider. Does this concern you – are you a health service provider? The Privacy Act 1998 defines a health service as ‘assessing, maintaining or improving a person’s physical or psychological health’. While the definition of a health service provider does not specify skin as health, I believe any lawyer, would argue that you do provide health services in providing healthy skin, thus improving a person’s physical and psychological health. If you are serious about skin, you’re in the skin health business. The Privacy Act 1998 includes 13 Australian Privacy Principles that encapsulates areas such as collecting, using, and disclosing personal information, integrity and correction of personal data, governance, accountability, and individuals’ rights to access their data. A breach of an Australian Privacy Principle is an ‘interference with an individual’s privacy and can lead to regulatory action and penalties. Under the law, you the business owner has responsibilities to keep client information secure and confidential. That means where the data is obtained, maintained, and accessed. The client has the right to see their information you are keeping and know how you are keeping it. Australian Privacy
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Principle 6 ‘Use or disclosure of personal information’ with the 77 subpoints is specific to your responsibilities in keeping client information secure and confidential. How are you keeping the client information? Australian Privacy Principle 11 ‘Security of personal information’ has the guidance and requirements regarding reasonable steps to protect the information from misuse, interference, and loss, as well as unauthorised access, modification, or disclosure. APP 11 includes the interesting note ‘an entity is not excused from taking particular steps to protect information by reason only that it would be inconvenient, time-consuming or impose some cost to do so’. Are you safeguarding client information in the cloud? Sounds great, yet my favourite question here is ‘Do you know where the cloud is?’ – overseas perhaps? If so, you are sending client information offshore – do you have their permission to do that? You are still responsible for that information. The servers’ location is a vital consideration in choosing a cloud service provider – Australian based servers are recommended. Australian privacy law requires that before personal information is disclosed overseas, a business must take reasonable steps to ensure that the overseas recipient does not breach the Australian Privacy Principles. In particular, yet not limited, to Australian Privacy Principle 8 ‘Cross-border disclosure of personal information’ deals with issues in 64 subpoints of having information offshore (i.e., in a cloud). I Would suggest downloading the ‘Guide to securing personal information’ from https://www.oaic.gov.au/privacy/guidanceand-advice/guide-to-securing-personal-information While extensive, it also contains lots of great resources. DATA BREACH A data breach happens when personal information is accessed or disclosed without authorisation or is lost. Such is known as the Notifiable Data Breach (NDB) scheme. Under the Privacy Act 1988, the business must notify affected individuals and the OAIC when a data breach involving personal information is likely to result in serious harm. Vigilance and measures to combat cyber-criminal activity must be consistently ongoing, due to the ever-increasing evolving technology. Criminals are continually probing for vulnerabilities and weaknesses in cyber systems. Do not think it is only a concern for a big corporation. Cybercriminals may not be interested in your business per sae, your client list with all those details is much more valuable to them. Don’t follow other organisations that have had data breaches and the resulting consumer outflow form that organisation. As much as you would want your information secure, do the same for your clients – they are, after all, the only reason you are in business. As a responsible business owner who gathers personal information from your clients you are required to have a PRIVACY POLICY in place. If you do not have this please contact APAN. You can access a legally-written Privacy Policy as well as a public statement to display in your business. Please phone 07 55930 360 email: info@ apanetwork.com with your contact details and we will get in touch with you. For this and other resource documents please visit APAN’s website www.apanetwork.com APJ
For a list of references, please contact the editor.
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AESTHETICS INDUSTRY BULLETIN that there were almost 1.4 million console sales in the first half of 2020, rising from 811,068 in the first half of 2019; while 49% of online console gamers indicated playing more often (on a static games
a Givenchy logo design to their avatar – further boosting brand awareness.
console) since the COVID-19 outbreak.
ON-TREND WELLNESS THEMES
Collaborating with Animal Crossing: New Horizons – a non-competitive, openworld game popular with younger demographics – also helps prestige players such as Givenchy build brand awareness and enter the psyche of younger generations. APJ
Instagram/@givenchy
THE GAME IS ON FOR SKINCARE BRANDS AS CONSUMERS SPEND MORE TIME AT HOME, brands are altering the way they reach potential customers. Some are fully immersing themselves within the lucrative gaming world in an effort to drive engagement, maintain or build brand awareness, align with on-trend beauty themes and promote new products. Below is a roundup of recent gaming-inspired innovations and concepts, with Nintendo’s Animal Crossing: New Horizons the ‘go-to’ game for a number of beauty brands in 2020. With a COVID-19 ‘second wave’ and the necessity of ‘nights-in’ skincare and makeup brands are taking on the gaming marketing approach. Gaming is already big business – global sales are set to rise by 74% in 2020 (vs 2015) to reach $159 billion – and engagement especially spiked during the COVID-19 lockdowns of March 2020. In the UK, data from gaming analyst firm VGChartz found
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Capitalising on the ‘second wave’ of COVID-19, it is expected that people will be spending more time indoors and skincare companies believe that gaming consoles/devices will provide consumers not just entertained, but also feeling part of a community as well as exposing them to fun ways of using their products. They believe that beauty/gaming concepts can allow for the ‘safe’ virtual trial of ‘real-life’ products. While in-store hygiene concerns persist due to COVID-19, beauty brands can use gaming as a way to allow players to safely and hygienically trial and experiment with their products, using gaming avatars. This was a route taken by Givenchy when it debuted its iconic makeup products on Nintendo’s Animal Crossing: New Horizons. Players are able to beautify their gaming avatars with virtual makeup designs inspired by Givenchy’s iconic ‘real-world’ products (e.g. Le Rouge Lipstick and Prisme Libre Loose). Gamers can also apply a 4G tattoo in
© Gillette Venus
Companies are now going beyond just beauty in venturing into the gaming world, they are also focusing on the on-trend ‘wellness’ themes that are appealing to the 65-85% of gamers in the US and China who play video/online games to relax. Indeed, self-care concepts in beauty/ personal care markets are on the rise and in demand as stress and mental health issues linked to the COVID-19 surge. Focusing on gaming’s relaxing merits is beauty brand, Tatcha. The brand is inviting Animal Crossing: New Horizons players on a virtual self-care break, while also promoting its new Rice Wash Cleanser. Amid a disrupted ‘real world’ holiday market, the Tatcha gaming concept (created with wellness brand Alo, and Nook Street Market) allows players to holiday virtually and visit ‘Tatchaland’ – Tatcha’s virtual island where players can relax and meditate in virtual spas, bamboo forests and more. APJ
This section presents the latest news, training dates and other Aesthetic Industry information
she explains. K-beauty staples like toners, essences and sheet masks are the most effective hydrators, according to Chao. Is this a term you should be adopting? The decision is up to you.
‘GLASS SKIN’ A NEW CONCEPT THAT IS GAINING CONSUMER MOMENTUM IT’S BEEN A FEW YEARS SINCE KOREAN SKINCARE first landed on the social media radars – Twitter and Instagram, but the beauty world’s collective fascination for all things K-beauty shows no signs of slowing down. Just a quick look at some of the innovative concepts that are leading the skincare trends including some of their ground-breaking formulations, surprising ingredients and flat-lay-ready packaging. They started the boom in sheet masks, introduced the benefits of ‘bee venom’ and ‘snail mucin’ and even prompted in Google priority listing for words such as ‘ampoule’ and ‘essence.’ And thanks to makeup artist Ellie Choi’s now-viral skin care routine and accompanying selfie showcasing her impeccably smooth, translucent skin, another term has been added to the ever-expanding K-beauty lexicon: glass skin. WHAT IS GLASS SKIN? As professionals, we may roll our eyes and state “here we go, another marketing ploy”, and you would be right in saying so. However, words can create powerful images that result in marketing concepts leading to strong consumer demand, so, let’s look at this new trend. “Glass skin is a term for exceptionally smooth, even-toned and lustrous
skin that’s so flawless it has the appearance of glass,” says skin care blogger and K-beauty expert Jude Chao. “It’s simply a clear and elegant way of describing a certain type of enviable complexion,” she adds. Like its predecessors, “honey” and “dewy” skin, glass skin aims for an intensely moisturised skin that gives off an almost transparent complexion and a very youthful, lit-from-within glow. THE REGIMEN “While some skin care trends are focused on particular products that promise instant visible results, achieving glass skin requires a multidimensional approach”, says Chao. “The surface of the skin must be extremely smooth, without bumps or rough texture. Directly beneath the surface, there should be a large amount of water in order to create the moist and lustrous appearance that catches and reflects light. Finally, the skin should look plump and firm,” Chao explains. Achieving this coveted dream-like visage requires “a specific skin care routine consisting of a cleanser, toner, serum, exfoliator and a hydrating moisturiser,” says K-beauty. And because intense hydration lies at the core of a glass skin regimen, Chao recommends opting for “watery products with humectants like hyaluronic acid and glycerine and considering using either multiple layers of one hydrating product or several layers of different ones,”
APJ
STUDY LINKS VITAMIN D DEFICIENCY TO ACNE ACCORDING TO A STUDY PUBLISHED IN DERMATOLOGY TIMES, December 2020 (Vol. 41, No. 12), Volume 41, Issue 12, patients with acne should be screened for vitamin D deficiency and insufficiency, according to researchers of a recent study investigating vitamin D’s link to acne. Vitamin D deficiencies are more frequent in people with acne than in healthy controls, report Ghadah Alhetheli and her co-authors in a first-ever study on this topic. “This difference is statistically significant with P-value=0.003,” adds Alhetheli, MD, assistant professor, Department of Dermatology and Cutaneous Surgery, College of Medicine, Qassim University, Buraidah, Saudi Arabia. However, researchers found no significant difference between lower serum 25-hydroxyvitamin D (25 OH) levels and the severity of acne, nor were there substantive variations based on age, gender and sun exposure.
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AESTHETICS INDUSTRY BULLETIN “The precise purpose of vitamin D has yet to be established,” writes Alhetheli and her col- leagues. However, because of vitamin D’s regulatory effect on the immune system, as well as its antioxidant and anti-comedogenic properties, deficiencies could contribute to the pathogenesis of acne. Alhetheli’s cross-sectional study evaluates serum levels of vitamin D through a representative sample and investigates any correlation with acne severity. They conducted their study in outpatient dermatology clinics at Qassim University, Saudi Arabia between October 2016 and March 2017 to minimise the effect of seasonal variations on serum vitamin D levels. They enrolled 68 patients with acne vulgaris (27 male, 41 female) and 50 matched healthy controls (24 male, 26 female). Subjects in the patient and control groups had not taken any vitamin D supplementation and were not suffering from any comorbidity or complication of vitamin D deficiency. Acne grading was classified as mild in 21 patients (30.88%), moderate in 24 (38.24%), and severe in 21 (30.88%). Inclusion criteria required that male and female patients had been diagnosed with acne vulgaris according to the global acne grading system (GAGS) score. Baseline demographics show that patients with acne were younger than healthy
controls, with a mean standard deviation (SD) for males with acne in the study of 20.7 ± 3.8 and 21.3 ± 3.6 for females with acne versus 39.8 ± 11.8 for males in the control group and 39.8 ± 14.85 for females. Blood samples were collected from patients’ veins and analysed within 24 hours of sampling using the Roche Cobas e411 (Roche Diagnostic Systems, Rotkreuz, Switzerland). Serum 25-hydroxyvitamin D3 [25 (OH) D] in patients and controls were categorised into adequate(>20 ng/ mL), inadequate (12–20 ng/ mL), or deficient (<12 ng/mL),2 following the guidelines of the Food and Nutrition Board of Medicine. “Our results indicate that serum concentrations of vitamin D in controls were significantly higher than those in acne vulgaris patients (P-value = 0.003),” writes Alhetheli. “These results are in line with several other studies that found no elevation of serum vitamin D levels in acne patients.” She adds that the study data showed no relationship between sun exposure and improvement in vitamin D readings in patients with acne. “This can be explained by several factors, such as the impact of psychological distress on patients with acne’s avoidance of spending extended periods outdoors. This suggests a possible explanation of low vitamin D levels in patients with acne vulgaris,” writes Alhetheli. “These results were consistent with Lim et
al who revealed that lower levels of serum vitamin D in severe acne vulgaris patients might be due to psychological stress. “We found no significant association between vitamin D deficiency and gender (P-value = 0.199),” says Alhetheli. “The results of our study indicate the mean value of vitamin D was abetted higher in moderate acne (31.4±6.9) than in mild and severe acne. (26±9.4 and 28.4±6.7, respectively). This difference was not statistically significant (P-value =0.067), perhaps due to the small sample size of our study. Also, we found no significant relationship between vitamin D deficiency and the severity of acne vulgaris.” She adds, “This study reveals a statistical significantly low serum vitamin D levels in patients with acne vulgaris. This highlights the importance of screening patients with acne for vitamin D insufficiency and deficiency. Further clinical trials are needed to determine if acne treatment with both topical vitamin D analogs and vitamin D supplementation is of significant effect.” Disclosures: The authors report no conflicts of interest in this work. References: Toossi P, Azizian Z, Yavari H, Fakhim T H, Amini S H, Enamzade R. Serum 25- hydroxy vitaminD levels in patients with acne vulgaris and its association with disease severity. Clin Cases Miner Bone Metab. 2015;12(3):238–242. doi:10.11138/ ccmbm/2015.12.3.238 APJ
LINK BETWEEN AIR POLLUTION AND COVID-19 SPIKES IDENTIFIED RESEARCHERS HAVE IDENTIFIED A LINK between localised peaks of COVID-19 and air pollution due to either temperature inversions or dust storms. The findings, which appear in the journal Earth Systems and Environment, suggest that localised air pollution may be a contributing factor in COVID-19 peaks, according to the researchers.
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This section presents the latest news, training dates and other Aesthetic Industry information
Weather, pollution, and respiratory illness COVID-19 is a disease that primarily affects a person’s respiratory system. Severe cases of the disease can cause an exaggerated immune response, resulting in an inflammatory cascade known as a cytokine storm, which can be fatal. Scientists have long been aware of a relationship between air pollution — specifically, fine particulate matter — and respiratory illnesses, such as influenza. Fine particulate matter can increase the levels of inflammation in a person’s body, potentially raising the risk of some lung diseases, as well as giving the blood a higher tendency to clot. High concentrations of fine particulate matter are associated with thermal inversions — a situation in which cool air becomes trapped near the earth’s
surface underneath a pocket of warmer air. Saharan dust storms for example, can also significantly increase fine particulate matter and researchers have linked these to localised increases in mortality. Given that research has shown air
pollution to exacerbate respiratory diseases and weather events to increase air pollution, the researchers behind the present study wanted to see whether there was evidence for weather events increasing localized COVID-19 peaks. To do this, the researchers focused on four cases of significant COVID-19 peaks. These were in Tenerife, Spain; the Canton of Ticino, Switzerland; Greater London, England; and Paris and its surrounding regions, in France.
Greater London saw significant peaks of fine particulate matter on March 26 and April 9, 2020. In the weeks following these, London saw a rate of COVID-19 deaths per 100,000 that was significantly higher than in all other parts of England.
The researchers analysed publicly available data on the levels of fine particulate matter for these regions and found a correlation between increased levels and peaks in COVID-19.
Finally, in Paris and its surrounding regions, researchers retrospectively confirmed the first case of COVID-19 as having taken place in December 2019. However, it was not until March 2020, after significant increases in air pollution, that cases began to spike. The increase in cases coincided with high concentrations of fine particulate matter immediately after a strong thermal inversion on March 28, 2020.
In Tenerife, there was a major dust storm on February 23, 2020. In the following days, there was a significant outbreak of COVID-19 noted in a hotel. In the Canton of Ticino, around February 24, 2020, a thermal inversion
This study points to the importance of ventilation and in minimising the impact of pollution in both the home and work environment as a potential risk-management strategy against COVID-19. APJ
trapped cool air on the surrounding valley floor and significantly increased fine particulate matter. During this time, hospitalisations due to COVID-19 surged. The number of cases was significantly higher than in Zurich on the other side of the Alps, which also saw lower levels of fine particulate matter.
EXPERTS IDENTIFY THAT LOCKDOWN 2.0 IS CONTRIBUTING TO WORSE OUTCOMES THAT THE FIRST LOCKDOWN THERE ARE NOW SEVERAL REASONS WHY SECOND
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AESTHETICS INDUSTRY BULLETIN LOCKDOWNS ARE REGISTERING WORSE OUTCOMES THAN THE FIRST. During the first lockdown it appeared that the collective hysteria, while alarming, kept everyone busy as they were coming to terms with the new reality. But as the weeks rolled into months, the novelty slowly wore off and was replaced by the bitter realities of a global pandemic. Loss of loved ones, chronic illness, redundancies, loneliness the list goes on. While returning to work was a relief for many for several reasons, when lockdown 2.0 appeared this was a very different experience for those who had this imposed on them once again. The level of stress experienced by many was heightened and both dermatologists and skin therapists are seeing much higher conditions of acne, rosacea and eczema compared to the first lockdown. With new research confirming the role of Vitamin D in skin health dermatologist are confirming that the results of Vitamin D deficiency can range from hormonal imbalances to low energy levels, to poor immunity - many of which take a toll on our skin. “As vitamin D deficiency is associated with poor immune function, increased inflammation, and decreased insulin sensitivity, deficiency can absolutely negatively impact the skin,” explains Dr Paul Nassif, skin specialist and owner of NassifMD Medical Spa in the UK. “Poor immune function weakens the skin barrier, increasing dryness. Increased inflammation can worsen inflammatory conditions like acne, eczema and psoriasis and insulin sensitivity can lead to worsened acne as well as glycosylated collagen (this process makes collagen stiff causing premature ageing).” Stress No one can deny that 2020 has been stressful. All that stress increased the release of cortisol levels, which can cause a variety of problems in terms of our physical health, including insomnia, high blood pressure and skin problems.
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“The effect of stress on the skin is massive,” says Dr Cunningham. “The skin is more inflamed and the immune system is impaired, which is a problem if you have immune-related skin disorders like psoriasis and eczema. Stress has a negative effect on our skin’s barrier function. The lipids and proteins within the barrier are reduced, and there’s more water loss causing irritation and dryness. It can also deregulate sebum production causing acne breakouts.”
all day, especially for regions where they are still under Stage 3 restrictions.
While it’s important to try and figure out the underlying cause of your stress with the aim to address it, there are ways to treat the impact of the stress on the skin. “To strengthen the skin barrier, you can use barrier repairing ingredients like ceramides and different humectants including glycerin and hyaluronic acid,” advises Dr Cunningham. “You can also stop your skin from dealing with additional environmental stressors like UV light and wear sunscreen, as well as including antioxidants in your skincare regime.”
Sugar rush While indulging in a few sweet treats during the festive season is only to be expected, too much sugar over a prolonged period of time could have a negative effect on our skin. “Indulging in refined carbohydrates and sugary treats can have a negative impact on skin health and accelerate skin ageing through glycation. As we know, glycation is a chemical reaction that occurs when excess sugar molecules bind to our healthy collagen and elastin fibres of the skin causing them to become stiff, fragmented and dysfunctional as structural proteins. Collagen and elastin are fundamental to skin health, and damage can cause an increase in wrinkles, sagging and a loss of radiance.
Maskne While wearing a mask is one of the easiest and cheapest ways to protect yourself and others from infection, it does have a few downsides. One downside in particular is the effect it can have on our skin, which has been dubbed ‘maskne’. Dermatologists are confirming that a prolonged period of mask wearing will create a humid environment where sweat, oil and bacteria build up and occlude the skin leading to clogged pores, breakouts or worsening of pre-existing skin conditions, such as acne, rosacea and eczema. They warn that without appropriate skincare measures, the cumulative effects of maskne could lead to impaired skin barrier function, chronic inflammation and a long-term exacerbation of skin conditions. APAN also confirmed that they are receiving several calls from the industry who are seeking advice on what to do with maskne, especially as they are obligated to wear their mask
The medical advice we have received is to make sure to remove your mask whenever you do not need to wear it, to allow the skin to breathe and reduce a build-up of moisture. Plus, it’s important to wash your mask regularly (ideally after every use) or replace it. It is also worth considering switching to a breathable fabric or silk, which helps reduce skin irritation.
As well as glycation, sugar can also cause inflammation throughout the whole body. “Sugar is an inflammatory food,” says Dr Nassif. “Too much sugar can also aggravate inflammatory skin conditions such as rosacea, eczema, psoriasis and acne.” As a professional, there are numerous excellent skincare brands that provide products and protocols to help restore skin barrier function. If you are seeking a reputable company that includes specialty products for such conditions please feel free to contact APAN, we have several brands that can assist you. On the other hand, if you can provide solutions for such skin conditions and would like to access more clients the Eczema Association of Australasia Inc would welcome trained and qualified therapist who can assist their members. APAN has a strategic alliance with EAA, please register your business with us https://bit.ly/37Nvy50 APJ
THE POWER OF KNOWLEDGE In a time of turbulence and change, it is truer than ever that KNOWLEDGE IS POWER. - John F. Kennedy APAN is pleased to announce that in collaborations with several accredited institutions we have expanded our professional development courses available through online study. Additionally, each course has been reviewed and has been allocated CPD Points acknowledging ongoing professional development. There is no better way in boosting your confidence and improving your business position than through structured and credible education.
Courses Include • Pandemic Infection Control • Pandemic Clinical Infection Control • Safe Use of Topical Anaesthetic • Dr Setterfield’s Skin Needling Course • And much more …
How You Can Benefit • Increase client retention • Build and strengthen confidence • Expand your recognition and credibility • Re-energise your staff • Improve efficiency • Enhance your competitive advantage
ENROL TODAY! (07) 5593 0360
info@apanetwork.com
www.apanetwork.com/courses
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SELF-REGULATION
Join the international movement towards a safer world!
PAN001
Pandemic Infection Control Program
gains international momentum
FAR-REACHING ACROSS THE GLOBE THE PAN001 PANDEMIC INFECTION CONTROL PROGRAM is being implemented by several countries – Italy, UK, Florida (USA) Chile and Spain, with many more reviewing it to introduce it to their professional networks. Additionally, the International Professional Standards Network (IPSN) – a global leading organisation in standards across many industries, has requested to promote this program through their network. We are also pleased to report that the Australasian College of Health and Wellness will be incorporating the PAN001 PANDEMIC INFECTION CONTROL PROGRAM within the third year of the Bachelor of Applied Health Science (Clinical Aesthetics). IT’S NOW YOUR TURN This program was launched not as just another course, but as a SELFREGULATION PROGRAM designed to APJ 68
introduce a uniform standard of safety across various jurisdictions, both nationally and internationally. Developed by Professor Laurence J. Walsh – a leading authority in infection control standards who has been instrumental in the establishment of clinical safety standards through various regulatory initiatives. The two chapters on the Pathophysiology of Viruses alone sets it apart as a unique program of the highest standard. It is further supported by the International Safety & Infection Control Charter, uniting practitioners across the globe. By undertaking this programme, you will be joining the global movement for a safer world. You will also allow us to gain government endorsement of this program to protect you during future disruptions. A movement can only be achieved through the power of numbers. The more of us who undertake this program the stronger our voice for better protection and change. Developing and launching this program has been an expensive process however, you can complete the program for just $355 or $255 if you are a current member of APAN. You can access and complete it online. We urge you to prioritise completing this program as it will further validate your compliance to the highest standard of safety and provide you with an additional competitive advantage within your business or professional environment. The collective benefits of this program are unique and important to the integrity of our profession. To access further information and to register visit bit.ly/2WphF86
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Pandemic Infection Control Program We pledge safety for all
Join the International Movement Towards a Safer World This certified online study unit will equip you to gain: • The latest information on the pathophysiology of viruses and pandemics • Update your safety protocols in line with the latest evidence-based information • Join the global movement • Assure your clients or patients that they are in safe hands • Fight against the need for lockdowns
Enrol Today! 07 5593 0360 www.apanetwork.com
Developed by
Professor Laurence J. Walsh AO Leading authority in immunopathology and infection control.
Supported by
The International Safety & Infection Control Charter APJ 69
PRODUCT INNOVATIONS
ISSADA Recovery Complex
ISSADA Collagen + Support Serum A supercharged serum infused with Marine Collagen, antioxidants, Vitamin Cand Hyaluronic Acid to strengthen and repair skin tone and elasticity. ISSADA Collagen+ Support Serum will plump, brighten, smooth and restore the skin’s vibrancy and vitality.
A lightweight formula to soothe, calm and hydrate the skin with anti-inflammatory properties. Supports the skin’s natural skin barrier function and strengthens the skin’s immunity. Ideal for use following laser, micro-needling, injectables and other non-surgical treatments. Contains soothing Aloe Vera, Ginger Root Extract, Bisabolol, Jojoba Oil and Vitamin E. To become a stockist call ISSADA 07 390 42288 or visit issada.com/partners
ISSADA Calming Probiotic Moisturiser This amazing moisturiser from ISSADA is ideal for inflamed or sensitive skin prone to acne and with a compromised skin barrier. Contains Probiotic lactobacillus, Agave, Tasmanian Blue Gum extract, Willow Bark (Salicylic Acid) and much more. It restores healthy bacteria to the skin’s biome to balance, purify and brighten, while also optimising the skin’s hydration.
CHI FUSION Active Serums Combining the best of science and proven natural botanicals Chi Fusion have released a serious of clinical-strength serums to help accelerate your skin treatment results. Glow contains 10% B3 which visibly improves enlarged pores, uneven skin tone, fine lines and wrinkles, dullness and an impaired skin barrier. It is a slightly viscous serum and is sensational for all skin types except a true dry rosacea skin. Illuminate is a powerful and effective serum for pigmentation. It contains Bearberry, Mantellic Acid and Liquorice extract. Kakadu Plum for Vitamin C infusion, Vitamin B3 to even skin tone and y-PGA to hydrate. Repair is excellent to speed up skin rejuvenation and wound healing and will help to repair damaged and scarred skin. This is a favourite as the results for damaged skin are amazing. Contact Kylie Pascoe at CHI AESTHETICS 1300 033 244 info@chiaustralia.com
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Dermatonics Copper Peptide Calming Mist
Dermatonics Skin Brightening Starter Kits
A unique, yet simple and effective calming mist. Dermatonics Copper Peptide Calming Mist contains the tripeptide glycylL-histidyl-L-lysine complexed to copper. This complexed peptide helps calm and repair the skin. With jasmine extract and hyaluronic acid, this mist is hydrating and effective for both in-clinic treatments and homecare, especially for those clients with rosacea or eczema-prone skin.
Dermatonics Starter Kits are the latest addition to the range and are extremely popular. They are a great way to introduce key products to your clients. The Skin Brightening Starter Kit contains essential products for client homecare in managing skin with hyperpigmentation. The amazing Dermatonics Melasmacare® and Dermatonics Curascar® will help specifically address various types of unwanted pigmentation and also includes their luxurious daily moisturiser Brightening Essence. This pack of Dermatonics skincare will help your clients see skin improvement within 2-3 weeks. Also works great as a travel kit for clients. Contact Dermatonics 02 9188 8819 | info@dermatonics.com.au
Dr. Anne-Marie’s Dermal Care Just in time for summer Dr. Anne-Marie’s Dermal Care ‘magic-trio’ will provide the perfect protection, support and maintenance for a youthful skin appearance. Hydrating Toning Mist combines Aloe Vera, Kakadu plum and Rose Absolute. Sprayed chilled onto the skin it will refresh, awaken the senses and revive even the most fatigued skin. Follow with Brightening “C” Serum containing Rosehip Oil, Evening Primrose Oil Apple Fruit Extract, Seaweed Extract, Beta-Glucan and Marine Collagen this powerful formula will brighten and lighten pigmentation as well as provide much-needed antioxidant protection during the summer months. Finish with Hydrating Moisturiser enriched with Avocado, Australian Sandalwood, Shea Butter and Vitamin E to enhance and seal in hydration. Ingredients are organically sourced and all products are proudly Australian made. Dr. Anne-Marie’s Dermal Care on info@dramdermalcare.com.au dramdermalcare.com.au or +61 403 846 622
Dermaviduals EGCG Liposomes EGCG Liposomes has potent anti-inflammatory and anti-ageing properties, as well as being a free radical blocker. Derived from the soothing properties of camellia sinensis, it’s extremely effective in treating irritated, reddened, and cracked skin. By modulating the protein kinase inhibitor p57, EGCG Liposomes is able to control and promote keratin and filaggrin formation in your skin. EGCG Liposomes 20ml dermaviduals.com.au, 1300 420 223, enquiries@skincorrection.com.au
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PRODUCT INNOVATIONS
SUPER C+ The Ultimate C Serum
SUPER Proof â&#x20AC;&#x201C; B3 Perfecting Serum The Super Proof Serum by SPACEUTICALS is a next generation serum combining skin perfecting niacinamide (Vitamin B3) dispensed in clinical concentrations of N-acetyl glucosamine, a skin-identical active to treat pigmentation, sun damage, fine lines and age spots to visibly brighten and lighten skin tone while boosting hydration and repairing barrier function. Intensified with an active dose of hyaluronic acid, aloe vera, panthenol and marine collagen this quenching, botanically active skin treatment is ideal for rejuvenating fine lines while treating acne, skin blemishes, congestion and sensitivity.
SUPER Smart Wrinkle Rejuvenator
The Super C+ Serum by SPACEUTICALS is a stable and intense dose of antioxidant-rich Vitamin C in crushed citrus synergistically activated with Ferulic Acid and Vitamin E to lighten and brighten skin tone by suppressing melanin production. Skin elasticity is boosted, fine lines are minimised and collagen synthesis is enhanced. Intensified with smoothing fruit acids and a hydrating infusion of aloe vera, lime caviar, Kakadu plum, licorice, and milk thistle extracts to moisture lock, improving luminosity and suppress inflammation.
The Super Smart Serum by SPACEUTICALS is a luxury skin treatment harnessing a revolutionary smart peptide, Heptapeptide-7 with advanced cosmeceuticals of resveratrol and hyaluronic acid in an omega rich anti-ageing vitamin infusion incorporating an advanced active Vitamin A retinoid complex. The result is a boost in epidermal growth factors and cell regeneration, which may visibly reverse wrinkles, activate collagen, increase skin elasticity, smoothness and firmness while defending against oxidative stress, DNA damage, dryness and sensitivity.
SPACEUTICALS Lactic Cleanser SPACEUTICALS Lactic Cleanser is a creamy daily cleanser combining a mini power peel with an intensely nourishing botanical skin treatment. This skin smoothing formula is enriched with 10% L-lactic acid to exfoliate, brighten and hydrate while activating collagen production for a refined and flawless complexion. Blended with age-proofing vitamins and a naturopathic infusion of over 20 plant extracts including fermented papaya and licorice, apple and white tea to cleanse and redefine tone while enhancing texture and hydration. The formula is enriched with concentrates of neroli, geranium, cypress and grapefruit to reveal a visibly refined, revitalised and luminous complexion. To become a stockist contact Waterlily 07 3390 3988 www.waterlilyskinbodyspa.com.au
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THE POWER OF SYNERGY FOR ACNE AND SENSITIVE SKIN Three synergistic formulations from Roccoco are making waves in the treatment of acne-prone, sensitive skin conditions. Soothing Cleansing Oil contains a blend of omega 3 rich oils will gently clean the skin while replenishing vital lipids. High antioxidant content enriched with Vitamins A and C and Elderberry extract will promote the skins immunity. Purifying Treatment Essence is a unique formula that gently encourages skin exfoliation, preparing it for optimum absorption of serums and moisturiser. Contains Willow Bark Extract and Niacinamide (vitamin B3) to brighten, even skin tone, and regulate sebum production. Decongesting Porefection is the ultimate moisturiser for impure or oily skin. Contains a blend of antioxidant, antibacterial and anti-inflammatory ingredients to calm, sooth and boost cell renewal, while reducing the appearance of breakouts.
RELAX IN TIMES OF STRESS Harnessing the therapeutic benefits of lemon balm, passionflower and fucoidan, RELAX is a nutritional supplement from Regul8. It is formulated to help you remain calm and reduce stress during the day, while assisting for a better sleep at night. It can also assist with re-establishing alertness and clarity during times of mental fatigue or strain. RELAX will aid in the relief of nervousness and restlessness whilst supporting cognitive, mental and adrenal functions. To become a stockist contact REGUL8 02 8424 6688 enquiries@regul8.com.au or visit www.regul8.com.au/stockist-enquiry/
SENSTIVE SKIN COMBO COVID has not been kind to skin, with the use of masks, stress and anxiety contributing to breakouts and an increase in skin inflammation. Roccoco has come to the rescue with three amazing products. Rescue Balm offers intense hydration and calm to irritated and inflamed skin. Containing botanical actives to provide an antihistaminelike effect, reinforcing the skin’s natural protective barrier. Radiance is designed specifically for hyper-reactive and sensitive skins that flush easily or suffer from permanently diffuse redness. Contains Dragon Blood Extract and Peony Extract provide anti-inflammatory support and accelerate healing. Reactive Skin Cream Intense is enriched with the luxury of over 500 roses. It rejuvenates the appearance of aged and flushed skin, visibly diminishing the appearance of capillaries. Peptides smooth the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines; skin is visibly calmer and less flushed in appearance. Contact Roccoco Botanicals 07 3807 1429 jacine@roccoco.com, www.rococco.com
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INGREDIENT SCIENCE
Traditional Retinols and the Green Option Giulia Dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Anna BOTH WITH MY CLIENTS, AS WELL AS THROUGH MY TEACHING OF INDUSTRY PROFESSIONALS I am regularly asked to provide answers about the safe use of retinols and potential alternatives for those for whom it is contraindicated. Here are some of the most common questions I am asked and my answers. WHY ARE RETINOLS POPULAR FOR ANTI-AGEING RESULTS? Our skin is constantly undergoing self-renewal, while battling environmental damage on a daily basis. This can be in the form of chemicals, pollution and especially UV from the sun, which has a detrimental effect otherwise known extrinsic ageing. Fundamentally, all of those little traumas are oxidants and we need cell renewal and antioxidants to help intervene and repair the damage. This then helps to reduce the appearance of skin ageing. Topical retinols, which are derivatives of Vitamin A, were first discovered to have a positive effect and have some age-reversal effects in 1983. In those early studies, retinol was shown to reduce surface roughness, pigmentation and improve fine lines and wrinkles. As the improvement was cumulative, further studies were done to show that the change happens deeper within the skin, in the dermis. The dermis looked more and more like that of a young skin. Since that time, retinol has probably become one of the most studied ingredients in skincare. There are many permutations as the Vitamin A family is large, so the choice of products that include some form of retinol is huge. HOW DO RETINOLS SLOW DOWN THE SKIN-AGEING PROCESS? Retinol helps to resurface and rejuvenate the skin, leaving it more vibrant, clear and youthful. Vitamin A cannot be synthesized by our body, so it needs to be supplied topically or orally. When applied topically to the skin, retinol helps the skin cell communicate. This means that damaged skin cells can return to better function. When UV hits the skin, healthy skin cells can be attacked and that leads to somewhat abnormal function of those cells. Retinol helps to stop the negative energy by attaching itself to the damaged cells, allowing the cells to repair. This will improve the collagen and elastin quality, reducing wrinkles. Aside from this deeper function, retinol also helps to break the bonds on the very surface of your skin so that dead skin cells gently fall away. This regulates your skin cell cycle, so
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that the epidermis turns over more frequently. The skin will glow as the skin is replaced frequently and pigmentation is reduced as the already pigmented cells are lost in a regular manner. WHY DO SOME PEOPLE NOT LIKE RETINOLS AND WHAT ARE THE DISADVANTAGES TO ITS USE? When our skin cycle is sluggish, using vitamin A for the first time can cause irritation, especially if the topical application is a higher strength retinol. This is called a Retinoid reaction, where there can be redness, irritation and dermatitis. This occurs because too many cells are lost and activated all at once. It is better to start with a very low concentration retinolderivative, and use it every third day. Once the skin cycle slowly becomes more active, recommend the use the retinol everyday. Once the skin is working more efficiently, as a skincare professional you can step things up and recommend a slightly more concentrated retinol to work deeper and faster. Since retinol can dry out the skin and boost sensitivity, you need to make sure that it is supported with a great moisturiser to seal moisture in. Also use an SPF sunscreen (which you should do anyway) to further protect the skin. The main problems with Vitamin A occur when we take it in the form of a supplement. Pregnant women consuming an increased level of vitamin A early in the pregnancy are also at risk for birth defects. For this reason, topical retinol use is contra-indicated for pregnant women so that no possible increase in risk is introduced through this happy stage of life. WHY DO YOU THINK SOME ARE TURNING AWAY FROM RETINOLS AND OPTING FOR GREENER SKINCARE? Progressively, consumers are becoming more aware of ingredients and what they are doing to our bodies. That is a good thing. However, I believe we need to be wary of believing hype or hysteria where there is no science to back up a claim. Some time ago, there was a small study undertaken on mice that concluded that Vitamin A was
associated with an increased susceptibility to developing tumours. However, if you read that particular study closely, the mice were “coated” in vitamin A and then subjected to UV radiation at maximum intensity. It is not surprising that the mice developed tumours under those conditions, and likely would have done so regardless of the use of vitamin A. I feel that most people understand that sunlight increases your risk of sun-related cancers, so the study was unethical and biased from the outset. IN YOUR OPINION DO NATURAL ALTERNATIVES TO RETINOLS WORK? HOW DOES THEIR USE ON THE SKIN DIFFER FROM THE CHEMICAL VERSION? Regular topical retinol isn’t for everyone. Those people with rosacea and pregnant women should avoid its use. In rosacea the skin’s barrier is compromised, so sloughing away dead skin cells in the form of a regular topical retinol can be too much. As mentioned earlier, excess amount of Vitamin A has been shown to interfere with foetal development, so retinol should be avoided during this time. “Green” products are those that have a much shorter ingredient list, without as many chemicals such as sulphates and parabens. Retinol is a safe product, but to maintain its efficacy, it needs to have a preservative added. So, anyone who wishes to use a Green retinol should look for a natural, plant-based retinol alternative such as “Bakuchiol”. This ingredient has been studied and has some scientific backing of its retinol-like activity.
HOW DOES BAKUCHIOL COMPARE TO RETINOLS IN TERMS OF RESULTS? Bakuchiol has been studied, and definitely has comparable effects to retinol. In one study undertaken in 2014, it was concluded that people that used bakuchiol twice a day for 12 weeks saw a vast improvement in fine lines, wrinkles, pigmentation, skin elasticity and firmness. It had the additional benefit of stimulating collagen production. However, I would like to see more studies to support these retinol-like effects, before we cast retinol aside. Bakuchiol seems to work along a similar pathway to retinol, but does not make the skin as dry or flaky as retinol sometimes can. Bakuchiol works to regulate the skin cell cycle, meaning that it facilitates cell turnover regularly helping the skin to appear fresher through the renewal of skin cells on the surface of the skin. However, at this stage, I would recommend sticking with Retinol if you skin is tolerating it well, as this ingredient is seriously impressive. Before implementing anything new, you need to check for allergic potential even for this plant-based ingredient, because just like anything natural, that is always a possibility. WOULD BAKUCHIOL WORK FOR SOMEONE WHO CANNOT TOLERATE NORMAL RETINOLS?
Retinol is usually synthetically made, but can be sourced from animals, as it is found in liver, kidneys and eggs. Bakuchiol comes from the seeds and leaves of Psoralea Corylifolia, a plant found in Eastern Asia.
For those who can tolerate retinol, there is no reason to phase it out and use anything else. However, for those that have rosacea or very sensitive skin, this can be a great alternative. As mentioned earlier Bakuchiol seems to work along a similar pathway to retinol, encouraging up-regulation of the skin cell cycle, so using Bakuchiol in the absence of retinol would be a great choice.
WHAT HAPPENS WHEN WE APPLY BETA CAROTENE ONTO THE SKIN?
WOULD BAKUCHIOL BE SAFE TO USE DURING PREGNANCY AND BREASTFEEDING?
Beta-carotene is sometimes called “proVitamin A” as it is a precursor to Vitamin A. It is found in many fruits and vegetables, giving them their orange colour. It is an antioxidant, helping to protect against free radical breakdown.
Since retinol is a derivative of Vitamin A, and vitamin A is associated with foetal development interruption it cannot be used through pregnancy. However, Bakuchiol is not vitamin A, so there is no restriction on its use through pregnancy or breast-feeding. It is a botanical extract from the seeds and leaves of the psoralea corylifolia plant and has traditionally been used in Ayurvedic and Chinese medicine to treat skin diseases for many years. APJ
Beta-carotene is used in the cosmetics industry, mainly in suntan products, hair care products and other cosmetics. When applied topically on skin, there is no conclusive evidence to show that beta-carotene will convert to Vitamin A, so this means it may not have the same anti-ageing effects of retinol. Additionally, the orange colour of betacarotene makes it challenging to have it included in topical formulations. The best way to ensure you have adequate beta-carotene is to ingest it in your diet, particularly throught your fruits and vegetables. CAN ROSEHIP OIL HAVE THE SAME TYPE OF EFFECT ON THE SKIN AS VITAMIN A? Rosehip oil has been shown to have great effects on the skin, but acting like a vitamin A is not one of them. It just doesn’t contain enough retinoic acid (another form of retinol) to be potent enough. Rosehip oil is made from the seeds of wild rose. Whilst it does contain small amounts of Vitamin A, it contains higher levels of vitamin C, which is the building block for collagen in the skin. This then naturally increases skin firmness and elasticity, but not in the same way that retinol does. Rosehip oil is a great moisturiser, and because it has such low levels of Vitamin A, it can be used on all people, including those with rosacea.
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ESSENTIAL OIL
Uncovering the Benefits of Helichrysum Essential Oil and Why You Should Use It Tina Viney
WHAT I LOVE ABOUT ESSENTIAL OILS is that once you understand their chemistry you can use them not just to address skin conditions, but also to lower stress levels and enhance immunity – a perfect combination at this time. This is because their molecular structure is minute enough to allow them to cross the blood/brain barrier and effectively work on several systems of the body simultaneously. How amazing is that? Several years ago, I was introduced by Dr Daniel Pénoël to the amazing essential oil known as helichrysum, sometimes also known as Everlasting. Dr Daniel Pénoël is one of the most highly-respected essential oil authorities in the world. He is a medical doctor, educator, researcher, and author who is based in France. It was 1988 and he was conducting a course in Australia on the chemistry of essential oils. His extensive education, which was delivered with a great deal of zest and passion left an indelible impression on me and fuelled my own commitment to research on essential oils, their chemistry and their therapeutic use. Coming back to helichrysum, Dr Pénoël explained to us among other benefits, the amazing haemostatic properties of this oil. Since then I was able to use this knowledge to immediately halt a severe haemorrhage as a result of a deep cut that a friend had experienced. It was incredible to see how a few drops of helichrysum were able to stop the extensive bleeding instantly when everything else failed. However, this amazing oil can provide many more benefits, so let’s take a closer look at helichrysum. OVERVIEW Helichrysum essential oil comes from the Helichrysum italicum plant, which is generally found in the Mediterranean and Southern Europe. A perennial herb, helichrysum produces golden yellow flower blossoms that have been used in herbal health practices since ancient times in Greece. The golden flowers of this small shrub are used to produce Helichrysum essential oil through the process of steam distillation. Because of the significant benefits of Helichrysum for the skin, it is often referred to as the Everlasting or Immortal Flower. Its aroma is quite spicy, but fresh and it can be enhanced when blended with frankincense, lavender, myrrh or eucalyptus. So, what are the amazing properties of helichrysum for which it can be used?
human cells, as well as compatibility to hormone-like compounds. Helichrysum’s molecular weight is so minute that it is able to penetrate human cells and when applied to the skin, it can reach the body’s cellular structure within minutes, releasing its benefits.
THERAPEUTIC PROPERTIES AND BENFITS OF HELICHRYSUM ITALICUM Each one of us is different and we all have our own unique body chemistry. One reason why the helichrysum essential oil is so valuable to our health is because of its amazing synergy with our body. For example, helichrysum is compatible with human proteins, it has similarities to the chemical structure of
Integumentary System: consisting of the skin, hair, nails, sense receptors, sweat glands, oil glands.
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One of the reasons why helichrysum is beneficial is that it is homeostatic – it is therefore able to support the body by stabilising equilibrium between interdependent elements, especially as maintained by physiological processes. When delivered to the skin in its purest form helichrysum can provide benefit to 13 key body systems that work harmoniously in support of body health and immunity. These include:
Skeletal System: consisting of bones, marrow, cartilage and joints. Muscular System: skeletal muscles, smooth muscles, cardiac muscles.
Nervous System: brain, spinal cord, nerves, brain stem, sensory organs. Endocrine System: pituitary gland, pineal gland, adrenals, testes, ovaries, hypothalamus, thyroid gland, parathyroid, thymus, pancreas. Cardiovascular System: blood, heart, arteries, veins, blood vessels, capillaries. Immune System: portions of many different systems that fight disease via the anatomic, inflammatory and immune responses. Respiratory System: nose, pharynx, larynx, trachea, bronchi and lungs. Urinary System: kidneys, ureters, bladder, urethra. Reproductive System: (male) testes, vas deferens, urethra, prostate, penis, scrotum; (female) ovaries, uterus, uterine tubes, vagina, vulva, mammary glands. Digestive System: mouth, tongue, teeth, salivary glands, pharynx, oesophagus, stomach, intestines, liver, gallbladder, pancreas, appendix, anal canal, rectum.
Limbic System: Basic emotions, basic drives, memories, hypothalamus, hippocampus, amygdala. Lymphatic System: lymph nodes, lymphatic vessels, thymus, spleen, lymph, tonsils. Studies also confirm that helichrysum has anti-inflammatory and anti-microbial properties helping to fight infections such as staphylococcus aureus (as we know, commonly found in skin infections, abscesses and pneumonia), fungal yeast infection such as candida albicans and streptococcus mutans, a bacterium commonly found in the mouth that can cause cavities and gum infections. For the purpose of skin treatments here are some conditions that helichrysum can be very useful. Vitiligo: While melasma and pigmentation conditions result in pigment disorders that are characterised by brown patches through uneven melanin distribution, vitiligo is a condition where there is a loss of skin pigment colour, creating white patches. Vitiligo affects about 2% of world population and close to 8% of Indian and Mexican populations. Helichrysum has been shown to optimise skin health and contribute to the rebalancing of pigment distribution. Dermatitis, Eczema, Psoriasis: Due to its calming and anti-inflammatory effect, a dilution of 1-3% helichrysum in hazelnut oil has been shown to be highly effective in calming and soothing these skin conditions. Antimicrobial/antiseptic: Due to its strong antimicrobial activity helichrysum essential oil is beneficial in treating skin disorders such as acne and rosacea, as well as to protect the skin after a more invasive procedures such as cosmetic tattooing, dermal needling or microdermabrasion. Where there is a wound, such as with cuts or abrasions, helichrysum applied topically, is an excellent oil to the rescue against infections.
Haemostatic: As I mentioned above, helichrysum has excellent haemostatic properties helping to prevent excessive bleeding. Cytophylactic: Helichrysum essential oil also promotes cell turnover and cell renewal, so it is an excellent anti-ageing agent for mature skin, offering excellent skin hydration and rejuvenation benefits. The advantage of helichrysum is that it is gentle enough for even the most sensitive skin, making it a valuable ingredient for all skin types. Another huge draw is that helichrysum can serve multiple purposes and therefore can be effectively used across many skin conditions delivering cosmetic, as well as therapeutic benefits from acne with it anti-inflammatory and anti-microbial properties, to mature skin conditions that require improvement in cell turnover, hydration, skin tone and elasticity, as well as pigment irregularities. SUPPORT FOR THE NERVOUS SYSTEM The other amazing benefits of helichrysum essential oil is its positive effect on the nervous system, through properties such as nervine, anti-phlogistic and antispasmodic. Helichrysum strengthens the nervous system, and protects it from nervine disorders. Its anti-phlogistic properties supports the body when a patient is exhausted during a fever acting as a tonic, while its anti-spasmodic properties help in relieving headaches, migraines, asthma, bronchitis and irritable bowels. Helichrysum can give a quick relief in case of sever coughing, breathlessness, cramps and abdominal pain. With its amazing benefits for both skin and in supporting the nervous system, helichrysum is an excellent all-round essential oil to explore further and investigate its potential uses in your practice. For me, this is one oil I would not be without and itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a must-have within my essential oil pharmacy cabinet. APJ
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PERSONAL DEVELOPMENT
The Power of Compassion and How to Avoid Burnout Tina Viney HONOURABLE ATTRIBUTES are the foundation that underpin our character and integrity. As part of supporting our community we regularly feature articles that look at such topics as COURAGE, RESILIENCE, INTEGRITY, HONESTY and numerous other human characteristics that are worthy of cultivating, as they provide us with strength, conviction and personal respect to stay in control of our life and situations. At this time in our world one attribute that is highlighted as the most essential is COMPASSION. In this article we explore what it means to be compassionate and how compassion differs from empathy and sympathy. Empathy, sympathy, and compassion are three words that many may use interchangeably, but they are not synonymous with one another even though they are close cousins. Let’s take a closer look at how to differentiate them. Sympathy means you can understand what the person is feeling. Empathy means that you feel what a person is feeling. Compassion is the willingness to relieve the suffering of another. Let’s unpack this more to understand the difference between compassion, sympathy, and empathy. SYMPATHY To feel sympathy means you are able to understand what the person is feeling. With sympathy, one can understand or imagine why someone is either going through a hard time or why someone might be feeling happy or sad. For example, although you might not feel the same grief, you can understand why someone might be grieving if their close friend passed away.
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EMPATHY Empathy is viscerally feeling what another feels. Thanks to what researchers have deemed “mirror neurons,” empathy may arise automatically when you witness someone in pain. For example, if you saw me slam a car door on my fingers, you might feel pain in your fingers as well. That feeling means your mirror neurons have kicked in. You may not always automatically feel how another is feeling, and that’s when you need to rely on your imagination. You have most likely heard the phrase, “Put yourself in someone else’s shoes.” That’s the other route to being an empathetic person. For example, perhaps you saw me slam my fingers in a car door, but you didn’t automatically feel that pain. Instead, you can empathise by imagining what it might be like to have your fingers slammed in a door, and that may allow you to feel my pain. Or, it can be as simple as noticing someone’s facial expressions and then feeling those same emotions yourself. By the way, empathy isn’t just for unpleasant feelings. You can feel empathy when you see someone happy, too. Isn’t it great when someone walks in the room smiling, and that makes you smile? EMPATHY VERSUS SYMPATHY It’s not easy to differentiate sympathy and empathy. The main difference between sympathy and empathy is understanding a feeling versus actually experiencing another’s feelings. For example, if someone’s father has passed away, you may not be able to viscerally feel that person’s pain. However, you can employ your cognitive skills and emotional intelligence to understand that your friend is sad. It makes sense, then, to send a sympathy card. You are not feeling that person’s pain, but you want them to know you are aware of their suffering.
Typically, people can sympathise much easier than they can empathise. COMPASSION Compassion takes empathy and sympathy a step further. It is the more powerful option. This is why. When you are compassionate, you feel the pain of another (i.e., empathy) or you recognise that the person is in pain (i.e., sympathy), and then you do your best to alleviate the person’s suffering from that situation. At its Latin roots, compassion means “to suffer with.” When you’re compassionate, you’re not running away from suffering, you’re not feeling overwhelmed by suffering, and you’re not pretending the suffering doesn’t exist. When you are practicing compassion, you can stay present with suffering. Showing compassion can help gain perspective or a new point of view because it puts you in someone else's shoes and makes you put time and thought into alleviating someone's suffering. Thupten Jinpa, Ph.D., author of the course Compassion Cultivation Training states that there are four-steps to the process of compassion: •
Awareness of suffering
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Sympathetic concern related to being emotionally moved by suffering
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Wish to see the relief of that suffering
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Responsiveness or readiness to help relieve that suffering
EMPATHY VERSUS COMPASSION An important distinction between feeling empathy and compassion is how they can affect your overall well-being. If you are frequently feeling the pain of another, you may experience a great deal of burnout. This is a common problem for caregivers and health care providers, and it has been labelled “empathy fatigue.” Compassion, however, is a renewable resource. When you have the ability to feel empathy for the other person, but then extend a hand to alleviate someone’s pain, you are less likely to burn out. Research indicates that compassion and empathy employ different regions of the brain and that compassion can combat empathetic distress. Neuroscience explains why. Empathic people feel the pain of others acutely. Is it possible to be too empathic? Could feeling too deeply for someone else’s pain or sorrow actually hurt you? Indeed, too much empathy can be debilitating. When we become too distressed about the suffering of others, we don’t have the cognitive and emotional resources available to do much to help them. Having compassion, a cognitive understanding of how they’re feeling, is better for our own well-being and the well-being of those in need. Instead of focusing on empathy to the point of draining ourselves emotionally, studies suggest that the practice of compassion is not only more beneficial for the person you are connecting with, it is also a healthier state of mind for you. The difference is that while you are sharing in the other person’s suffering and have concern for another, compassion allows you to have a level of objectivity in that you feel for the person, but not feel with that person. There is a real advantage to these differences. As compassion feels, but does not totally yields to the emotion of the pain, the compassionate individual is able to evaluate the situation and determine actions that can help alleviate the pain of the
sufferer, helping them gain support and relief from their condition to move forward. A compassionate person views their role as one who can move the situation towards a more positive solution. For example, a compassionate person would say, “I feel your pain and sympathise with your situation, but let’s see what we can do today to help you experience support and make you feel better”. Compassion moves away from camping around the pain and moves towards improving the situation by focusing on identifying and establishing a solution. This is not only beneficial for the sufferer, it is also healthier for the carer, as they are using their influence to provide and support emotional equilibrium. Studies also confirm this. Neuroscientists Tania Singer and Olga Klimecki conducted studies comparing empathy and compassion. Two separate experiment groups were trained to practice either empathy or compassion. Their research revealed fascinating differences in the brain’s reaction to the two types of training. First, the empathy training activated motion in the insula (linked to emotion and self-awareness) and motion in the anterior cingulate cortex (linked to emotion and consciousness), as well as pain registering. The compassion group, however, stimulated activity in the medial orbitofrontal cortex (connected to learning and reward in decision-making) as well as activity in the ventral striatum (also connected to the reward system). Second, the two types of training led to very different emotions and attitudes toward action. The empathytrained group actually found empathy uncomfortable and troublesome. The compassion group, on the other hand, created positivity in the minds of the group members. The compassion group ended up feeling kinder and more eager to help others than those in the empathy group. AVOIDING BURNOUT Now that you know the difference between empathy and compassion, consider if you are experiencing empathic distress. If you are, here are a couple of ways to support and protect yourself. Breathe: When we see something distressing, it activates the fight-flight response and our breathing becomes fast and shallow, which increases our anxiety and gives our emotions momentum. Research shows that slow, steady deep breathing activates the vagus nerve, which comes from the brain and controls the parasympathetic nervous system that controls the relaxation response. A few deep breaths will help you feel calmer. Feel your body: When you’re witnessing strong emotions in others, intent to stay with yourself rather than getting caught up in their experience. Feel your feet on the ground and wiggle your toes. Bend your knees slightly if you are standing, and feel your butt in the chair supporting you if you’re sitting. Be aware of body sensations and imagine yourself holding the sensations and emotions as they move through your body. And, of course, keep the option open to physically remove yourself situations that become too distressing. Move towards a solution: Focus your energy of identifying ways to help relieve the situation and support the other person to gain comfort, strength with move towards recovery. Your compassion is an amazing way where you can improve someone’s quality of life and help them gain tangible support. By understanding how to protect yourself, you can allow compassion to bring hope to others, while staying strong and in control. APJ
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COSMETIC TATTOO
RISKS & CHALLENGES THE EMERGING LANDSCAPE OF COSMETIC TATTOOING Katherine McCann
COSMETIC TATTOOING is an ever-emerging and exciting industry that is evolving at a rapid rate and with the abundance of new and improved education, training, online courses and workshops on offer. People are not only thirsty for knowledge they are eagerly jumping on board to learn new skills and techniques. The popularity of cosmetic tattooing is as apparent as is the commercial promotion of a financially-rewarding and lucrative career, which over the past 5-10 years has seen an explosion of newcomers and a sharp rise in those entering the profession with varying levels of training, which in itself poses risks. However, these procedures require not just comprehensive training in the first place, but also on-going practical and technical skills-development. What is often underestimated, is the commitment it takes to not only learn and execute a skill, but the tenacity needed to build a portfolio and a strong consistent base of clients, in addition to running a business and often simultaneously balancing family commitments. The cycle often takes a few different forms after people do their basic training. Some will dig-in and go on to become great, while others simply float along, existing for a while and flitter out, or simply move on. What is apparent, is the fact that we are beginning to experience a real melting-pot with people performing these procedures on clients, but with differing levels of base training, commitment, enthusiasm, motivation, not to mention experience, which brings me to my topic here today the emerging landscape of Cosmetic Tattooing. APJ 80
THE BROW PHENOMENON Using history as a predictor let’s highlight brow trends. First, we saw thin brows, then thicker brows, on to feathery brows and now the stronger ombre, or combination look. We can clearly identify how brows have changed over the years and in line with these changes are peoples’ tastes, expectations and consequently their decisions to want to try something new. But what happens when you’ve tattooed brows in one way and then decide to do something else and then again something else? Or potentially you get a particular brow style, but for whatever reason that style just doesn’t suit, the pigment won’t hold, or hairstrokes fall out. Even worse, you’ve ended up with a build-up of multi-colours on top of colours or left-over residual from a botched job that you’re now wanting to correct, amend or soften. The fact is that common scenarios such as the above, will walk through the door time-and-time again and you as the cosmetic tattoo ‘professional’ will be faced with all kinds of challenges, some easily rectifiable, while others may require more technical knowledge and skill to correct. In some cases, they may be totally irreparable, or better off referred to someone else completely. The point is, these kinds of challenges are and will continue to become more and more common as there are now so many more people tattooing. The reality is that people can only do what they can do and will only sell what they know, which in many cases may be less than ideal if the experience of the cosmetic tattooist does not match the espoused output, or client expectations.
These days it’s pretty rare for new clients (and existing ones) not to have had some kind of cosmetic tattooing work done and unlike nails or lashes, it’s much harder to turn people away saying that you won’t work over anyone else’s work. The time is coming where it now comes down to mapping out a strategy of how you can work with what is in front of you – either for corrective work, or a new procedure and how you will get the client to be on the same page. Sounds pretty simple, right? The fact is that no one face is the same and unlike body tattooing, the illustrious young and sought-after virgin skin you are now faced with in the more modern reality of ‘improving’ older, often sun damaged, scarred, uneven or mottled skin, not mention trying to even out differing colours, levels of saturation and work with that wonderful word, which begins with ‘T’ - titanium. All of which add extra layers of complexity to the job and the task of predicting how your current choices will work, heal, implant and most importantly, how they will look in the skin a good 6-8 weeks post initial procedure. In this ‘new world’ and I say that because this is the way of the future - not only will your clients be buying your creative abilities, but also a combination of your technical, psychological and educational skills, all of which are absolutely critical in being able to decode expectations and essential to you being able to explain the ‘why’ behind whatever strategy you and your client decide on moving forward. You will need to consider their understanding of what they can expect as they go through the current plan and process, irrespective as to any previous experiences they may have had. There is no denying it, this landscape is changing. BE TRUTHFUL ABOUT EXPECTATIONS I must also stress - don’t be shy to keep it real. Remember, these are real people and we need to ensure we maintain real expectations - especially when you’re working over previous work. It’s very likely that a lay person may not realise that just because their previous tattoo ‘has faded’ or is almost gone that the job may be more technical and not so straight forward. Picture trying to wash a yellow paint brush out in a murky cup of water, things aren’t always so easy and in fact, once in the skin, things can quickly change. During the consultation, it’s also a timely reminder to ensure our clients understand that even if they show you the latest Instagram filters or flattering makeup look, its super important to make it clear to them that you’re working ‘within’ the skin and not on top of it. Considerations will include facial shape, volume loss, elasticity, ageing, symmetry, skin type and integrity, colour, lifestyle, pigment choice, residual scarring, tattooing technique used, levels of saturation, underlying injury, previous placement of an older tattoo and the list goes on - all major factors when determining your objectives. All of these issues and more are going to impact that long-sought after and consistent 'perfect' healed result whenever you’re performing any cosmetic tattoo procedure. MAINTAIN YOUR CURRENCY OF KNOWLEDGE Perfecting your skill and technique will only be achieved as you keep on top of the latest in education and research, as this will become one of your greatest assets as a cosmetic tattooist. Longitudinal outcomes begin to reveal patterns that you can in turn use as predictors for your own work. These should ultimately strengthen your own knowledgebase, as well as demonstrate evidence of any outcomes you’re working towards.
Ensuring the client is totally informed and fully understands their role and what they will encounter, or expect to experience and have to go through as this is especially helpful when the treatment strategy or action plan is quite long, technical or requires a greater level of involvement by both parties. Technical considerations for cosmetic tattooing won't be decreasing anytime soon. In fact, it’s expected that these factors will not only increase, but the more saturated the market becomes, they will simply become a common occurrence. So, it’s highly probable as raised above, that due to the fact there is no one-size-fits-all solution, there is also not one modality or technique that will aid a successful correction each and every time. It would therefore be prudent to look at how you can diversify and begin to build successful inter-industry association and relationships in order to work collaboratively and concurrently when required. I personally provide multiple types of removal, lightening, dissolving and corrective tattooing options and depending on what condition “walks through the door”. After a thorough and comprehensive consultation, I am then able to break down the individual components and map out a technical approach as to how we can tackle each 'layer' or essentially prepare the skin in order to be the most receptive to the ongoing corrective journey. There have been instances where I’ve had clients come in and their brows were so badly and irretrievably damaged that excision was the only option and they were ultimately referred onto a skilled surgeon for a consultation. But there were other times when I’ve had clients with terminal cancer come through the door and I’ve 'gone over the top' of brows to simply neutralise or try and even-out previous tattooing. It would have been far too stressful or taxing on their body to do anything other than get their brows to an 'improved' stage where they are happy and their quality of life enhanced as an immediate result. Many times, you will be faced with 'should I do this - or should I do that' scenario, so your decisions need to be weighed up using experience, ethics and wisdom, as well as how the procedure will age over time. THE NEW NORM At the end of the day, times are changing and gone are the days when the pursuit of perfection outweighs the reality of what someone may realistically be able to achieve. Of course, our aim is always to ensure we can get the most appropriate and optimal outcomes for our clients, but the real onus now is on you as the cosmetic tattooist to be able to work with what’s in front of you and exercise your ability to improve, enhance and educate the client, especially when there may be no set rules as to how you tackle what they present. The hard and fast rules are now being replaced by the need for adaptation and change. This is becoming the new norm and by ensuring your skillsets are continually developed, expanded and refined you will go a long way to ensuring you are not only future-proofing yourself as an industry professional, but also doing your part in educating the consumer and improving the quality of output and choices made whether is it is a new procedure, they are having, or rectifying previous work. The future of successful procedures sits firmly with us all. APJ
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TIPS FOR BETTER BUSINESS
THE POWER OF 1ST IMPRESSIONS IN BUSINESS AND THE FIVE WAYS TO NAIL THEM As the saying goes, “You never get a second chance to make a first impression.” First impressions last – and once made, they will either go in your favour or against. If it’s not a favourable impression, you may never get to rectify it. Even worse, this impression happens in the first seven seconds of meeting someone. So, if you want people to do business with you, you MUST know the five simple rules. If you can nail these key ways to make a good first impression, your business is already on its way to success. Anyone can be good, but only great businesses are memorable and the ones that clients continuously come back to. So, here are the five rules to amazing first impressions: Always smile If it takes seven seconds to make a good impression, why not fill it up with three things: a greeting, their name, and a SMILE. “Hello, Jane, my name is Mary. It’s wonderful to meet you.” It’s not hard to say these things, but
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it sounds so much better when there’s a smile on your face and in your voice. When you smile at someone, in this case, Jane, it makes her more likely to like and trust you. It makes you seem more approachable and caring. Research shows that a genuine smiling face creates customer joy and enhances brand appeal. Notice, we said genuine? We are not talking about encouraging cheesy, fake smiles that people straight away pick as superficial. We are talking about a welcoming and caring attitude. But in saying that, any smile — even if it is a little forced, is better than none. Smiling also helps you speak slower and clearer! Have you ever called a business and the employee answers the phone by rattling off their company name like they’re reciting the alphabet, there’s no deliberate engagement, or the sound of a smile in their tone? Ask your team to take a breath and smile BEFORE they pick up the phone. The tone of a smiling person is undeniably warm and helps the talker pause mentally ready to make that GREAT first impression. HAVE A SYSTEM FOR EVERYTHING Systems are the backbone to optimal functionality. You need to have good systems in place so that your team, and even you, have something reliable to lean on. A trusted and
secure system to fall back on can make all the difference between being mediocre or being memorable. You can’t always remember everyone’s name for example, but you can ensure it’s in the system and accessible to everyone on the team immediately. This way whenever a client walks in, every single staff member knows who they are and why they are there. Systems should include: • How to greet people •
How to handle a complaint
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How to answer the phone
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What to say to a difficult client?
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How to ensure the place is clean and tidy
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How to communicate with team members
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How to ensure clients are happy
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How to begin and continue relationships
The list can go on and on. In short, systems should be in place for all important business processes. If you ever find yourself asking someone how to do something, make another system! If you had to ask, I’m sure others did too. Think about some systems you can implement today that will make your business more client-focused.
Business & Legislation, New Tools and Research Outcome
PERFECT YOUR SCRIPTS To make systems work, it’s important to use scripts. These help people feel at ease with the interactions that will inevitably pop up in business. Why not arm your staff with conversational ammunition and armour? Scripts help your team convey a warm, inviting presence every time. It’s critical. The first person they interact with can decide if they do business with you or not. If your receptionist is having a bad day, the script can save them and help ease the tension of the day. Scripts aren’t supposed to be recitations, they’re supposed to take the pressure off staff and give them guidance. It’s really a form of branding and way to ensure a good customer experience every time. Remember, scripts aren’t just for the phone, but for all greetings, or for answering frequently asked questions. It might be obvious to you what to say if someone asks ‘How to book an appointment’ – but write a
service may in fact be very annoying to your client. You need to look deeper than the standard approach, deeper than the sale. You need to look at the person and see what they want. Read in-between the lines and deliver. That’s the difference between good client service and memorable customer service.
not! That’s old school business. The new way of doing business is making it an experience.
Some clients want to make fast decisions, some want to move slow. It’s up to you to find out what they want, how they like to think, how they like to be treated, how they like to make decisions — and let them do that.
Surprises don’t have to be big statements. We are not talking about being Oprah and surprising an entire room with a note under their seat and giving them a new car. We are talking about intimate surprises; meaningful moments they’re not expecting. It’s their birthday, surprise them with a special gift and an addition to their treatment at no extra charge. If you know they love golf, buy them a golfing magazine. If it’s Mother’s Day and you know they have children, offer them a “Mother’s Day” treat.
Service isn’t just the “would you like fries with that?” method. That’s just upselling, it’s not about discovering what they like and who they are. You can still upsell but upsell the product that is personal to them. ALWAYS SURPRISE YOUR CLIENTS Good business is not enough. You
Good client service is a great basic ingredient — but it won’t get you to rise beyond mediocre. These days people expect good client service, and they complain if they don’t get it.
If you can follow these five simple steps, you’ll be creating memorable moments that will put a smile on their face well after they have left. Be the best, offer the best and stay the best. Do this and your business is bound to succeed. APJ
I HAVE FACEBOOK, DO I REALLY NEED A WEBSITE? YES, HERE’S WHY A recent survey in our industry found that there are numerous businesses that do not have a website. Their excuse is “but I have Facebook, isn’t that enough?” The answer unfortunately is “no, you still need a website”. Here are what business studies show:
short script so that everyone feels just as confident. GET YOUR SERVICE RIGHT Treat others as you would like to be treated? WRONG. Treat others how THEY want to be treated. What you believe is great customer
need to be memorable, and you need to stand out from your competitors. The tiny little thing that will help do that? The art of SURPRISE or the wow factor! Put the DELIGHT back into business. Many believe that providing good client service is the wow factor, it’s
Statistical evidence: A recent study found that 90% of customers prefer to check a business’s website before approaching them for business purposes. Credibility: According to a recent survey, 84% of consumers believe a business with a website is more credible than one with social media only. Having a professional website
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TIPS FOR BETTER BUSINESS makes you and your business look professional. It drives the perception of you as an expert in your field. Trustworthy: Additionally, having your own website allows you to create a branded email address. Incorporating your business name into your email address once again increases the public’s perception of your business as a trustworthy one.
Attract new clients to you: Some business owners feel they have plenty of clients who know how to find them. However, attrition rates are real and any savvy business owner should be consistently wooing new clients. One of the easiest ways to do this is to make your business searchable on Google. Having a highly-optimised website can (and will) help you attract new clients. And, in the current age of on-the-go searching for businesses (thanks, smartphones!), having a website ensures customers who are looking for your services can actually find you. It eliminates confusion: Regardless of what business you’re in, you have competitors in your area offering similar services. By creating a well-branded website, you are providing a clear explanation of who you are as a business and how you
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are differentiating yourself from the competition. It allows you to sing your own praises: Your website is the perfect place to showcase positive reviews from satisfied customers, which also helps potential clients understand why they should choose your business over others. Allowing clients access to what others think of and have
experienced with your business boosts your social proof — the signals that indicate yours is a legitimate and trustworthy business. It puts control in your hands: You’re in control of your business. You should also control how your business is viewed by others. When you have your own website, you have the power to craft content that is relevant to your customers and on brand. You don’t have to worry about whether a marketing service is going to understand the vision of your business. It allows clients to reach you instantly: Clients come to a website because they want to know what you do and how to reach you for additional information. Having your contact information readily available on the homepage of your site helps clients get in touch. You can also provide opt-in options for customers,
allowing them to share their email address and sign up for promotional emails and/or newsletters. If you already have a website, then make sure that the functionality you have provide you with exceptional communication. This of course requires that you have an excellent professional content. But that is another matter. APJ
CRITICAL ELEMENTS TO BUILDING AN IMPACTFUL EMPLOYEE RELATIONS STRATEGY FOR YOUR BUSINESS Every business would agree that employee relations are important if you want a productive team. COVID-19 has provided businesses with the opportunity to consciously enhance and curate business culture harnessing the insights learned from the unprecedented overnight change from world health and economic crisis. Now is the time to decide the legacy you will leave behind as you lead your team or business successfully out of a pandemic. The question to ask yourself is; will you create something that both you and your employees are proud to be a part of, one of genuine connection, care, and empowerment that produces an engaged, productive, successful business for the future, or are you going to leave it all to chance? The term ’employee relations’ refers to a business’s efforts to manage relationships between the employers and employees and in its essence, it sets the foundations for a positive workplace culture/environment. Here are a few tips to help you refine this process: Build authentic connections This step doesn’t begin when the employee joins your business, rather, it’s from the first interaction they have with you and your business. True to laying a solid foundation in any relationship, there needs to be a mutual understanding of the benefit from investment both parties in the relationship will receive. Where managers and employers go wrong is when they believe business relationships are purely transactional. The more time you spend building,
Business & Legislation, New Tools and Research Outcome
nurturing, and understanding one another the stronger the employees’ commitment. When we meet with businesses we often meet with multiple employees throughout the business and a great way to conduct a ‘health check’ on the relationships that exist is by asking the question; Does the business/your manager care about you beyond what they get from you? So how do you begin to build these authentic connections? Recognise that each employee is much more than the role they fill in your team and organisation. They have their values and interests outside their employment and they are in your team or business for their own purpose/reason. Take the time to get to know and understand each person. Understanding their purpose, motivations, interests outside work, their passions; all the intricacies that make them who they are. It is through this investment that you begin engaging their head and their heart. Put your people first – they’re powerful One of our core pillars is “embrace who we are”. This pillar recognises all the unique differences that each person possesses that cannot be replicated by another person. These unique combinations of skills, knowledge, and attributes make every individual uniquely valuable to each business. When businesses begin to embrace each person for who they are, they can unlock their full potential. Align yourself, your team and your business True alignment can only occur where there is a genuine connection and those individuals in leadership positions are committed to increasing their understanding of their team. When managers and senior leadership seek first to understand, they begin to actively listen to the information that is being given and can work to develop ways to respond that is meaningful to their employees. Be clear and be kind In a world of distraction and interruption, clarity aids productivity and enables people to feel a sense
of accomplishment. Gone are the days of power management where hoarding information was seen to be an effective management strategy; it simply does not work. In a world where nearly everything has become instantaneous, it is easy to get lost in low-value tasks such as responding to every email in your inbox. If you identify that someone is getting stressed out, stop and re-evaluate. Resolve the issue before it becomes a disappointment that breeds further problems. Having clear HR Policies in place is a wonderful way to secure clear communication of expectations and what to do if a grievance arises.
grow it, and businesses that leave their culture up to chance. The reality is that every time you hire a new member of a team/business, their presence (whilst welcomed) dilutes what you have worked to create in your conscious culture. As such, it is important to understand that with this, you must re-invest in curating it. Everything noted above is not just something that you can do once and tick off your to-do list. People, businesses and teams are living organisms that are constantly changing and evolving as a consequence of their environment, and so too is the work required. APJ
Show meaningful appreciation Businesses need to recognise when individuals or teams go above and beyond to achieve an outcome or deadline without this then becoming the new expectation. Immediately following such an effort, effective managers will know how to show meaningful appreciation based on their teams’ needs, motivators, and interests (because they have created authentic connection!!) Too often people forget to show appreciation for the effort teams and individuals display as many businesses adopt the mindset that this is “just part of their job”. Communication is key Communicating with employees solely through memos or emails is not only inefficient but impersonal. Teams and individuals will feel as though they are not an integral part of your company if all you ever do is talk at them. Your employees are some of the most important resources you have so having two-way personal communication is essential. It is important when standards are established that they are first verbally communicated with clarity about their purpose, then they need to be delivered in writing. Choose a conscious culture, work at it, maintain it and keep refining it At the core of employee relations, we are talking about the culture of your business. We certainly see stark differences in businesses that see culture as important, invest in it, make it a priority, consciously nurture and
THE NSW GOVERNMENT IMPOSES DIGITAL CUSTOMER CHECK-IN MANDATORY FOR ALL VENUES This means all businesses across the state must use QR codes or other electronic forms to record contact details of customers, or risk facing strict penalties. This announcement was released on the 23rd November however, we are still receiving enquiries from salons who are not complying.
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TIPS FOR BETTER BUSINESS NSW Minister for Customer Service Victor Dominello said there will be “no excuses” for business that do not comply. “We can’t respond to a pandemic with paper,” he said. “We must be fast and precise and digital is the best way forward. “We have to move away from the walk-in culture to the checkin culture. This is about building resilience as we continue to open up as safely as possible heading into summer.” NSW Government has clarified the new digital check-in rule applies to function centres and any corporate events taking place across the state. Scanning a NSW Government QR code captures the business name, address and the customer’s contact details, which are stored for 28 days for the purpose of contact tracing. After this time, the customer’s details are destroyed. For customers who do not have access to a smartphone, venues are encouraged to record their contact details and time of entry using a digital device. Dominello said while the overwhelming majority of businesses are doing the right thing, there are
still some venues with “inadequate check-in systems”. “Complacency is our greatest threat and any business that thinks they are above the law will face serious penalties,” he said. Use QR codes for contactless check in and help NSW stay in business and stop the spread of COVID-19. If any customers are unable to use the QR code, businesses should have an alternative check in method available, such as an SMS service or manual check in with a staff member. Salons and clinics have indicated that some of their clients do not come with their phones, in those instances please continue to use the client screening process. If you need to access this template please contact APAN. You can access it for free. If you require further information on introducing QR-Code to your business visit www.nsw.gov.au/covid-19/ covid-safe/qr-codes APJ
THE GOVERNMENT INTRODUCES MENTAL HEALTH AND WELLBEING SUPPORT FOR BUSINESS OWNERS While the level of resilience during these challenging times in our
industry has been admirable, running a business can be stressful and may contribute to exhaustion from mental health challenges. The Australian Government in November this year introduced a special program to help support businesses who are struggling mentally with the impact of COVID. The program provides tuition on why it is important to manage risk of mental health in the workplace and introduces strategies to help you gain the tools to overcome your challenges. You can access mental health support through various means, such as: • general practitioner (GP) or Telehealth services •
online and phone-based counselling sessions
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chat and email based mental health services
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online workshops and webinars
Additionally, Beyond Blue has a free 24/7 service to help you deal with the impact of the COVID-19 pandemic on your mental health and wellbeing. The Coronavirus Mental Wellbeing Support . Service includes: • online information and self-help tools •
phone counselling from trained mental health professional
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peer support
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tips to help run your small business from home
If you, a staff or family member is struggling, please be bold and seek support. If you are struggling with your business, please note that APAN offers a Help Line. Just book a consultation and let us help you. Sometimes all it takes is to speak to someone who understands your business and can provide you with potential solutions that were not initially obvious to you. Reach out to APAN we have helped hundreds of businesses. However, if you wish to access the government program you will find further information from their website https://bit.ly/3gV1g4r APJ
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UPGRADE YOUR SKILLS AND KNOWLEDGE IN
MICRONEEDLING Dr Lance Setterfield, M.D. Online study course now available in Australia WORLD-RENOWNED as one of the leading masters in Collagen Induction Therapy, Dr Lance Setterfield has updated his on-line study course in line with his manual The Concise Guide to DERMAL NEEDLING: Revised and Expand Manual - Third Medical Edition.
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Enable clinicians to achieve and maintain the best result using this modality
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Enable clinicians to grow their business substantially through the introduction of micro-needling services as the foundation for all other cosmetic treatments
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Determine the appropriate skincare products to use (which ingredients to use and which to avoid)
The course is non-product aligned and covers the application of both rollers and pens. However, the knowledge you will gain will go far beyond the use of Micro-needling. It includes valuable information on how you can combine this “treatment” with a variety of other modalities to optimise results, while avoiding complications.
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Determine which device to use and what needle depth for the desired outcome
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Determine if the inflammatory response should be provoked and sustained
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Gain the skills and knowledge on how to combine micro-needling with other modalities for optimising results
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Gain the knowledge on how to avoid complications
WHO SHOULD UNDERTAKE THIS COURSE? Medical professionals and non-medical professionals. (Clinicians who are performing or overseeing microneedling procedures.) COURSE GOALS AND EXPECTATIONS: •
Expand practitioner's scope of practice by ensuring enhanced foundational knowledge accepted as standard practice in the industry
COURSE OBJECTIVES AND COMPETENCIES:
COST: $699 – If you do not have The Concise Guide to Dermal Needling – Third Medical Edition you will need to also purchase that. The cost is $135 + freight. Completing this course will earn you 10 CPD points toward your professional development. WHAT DO I DO TO ENROL? Contact APAN to make your payment. You will then be given the access Code to download the study course. You will also need to read and agree to the terms and conditions of accessing the course. TO REGISTER CONTACT APAN 07 5593 0360 www.apanetwork.com info@apanetwork.com APJ 87
TECHNOLOGY
Radio-Frequency and its effects on Skin Rejuvenation Professor Terry Everitt DEVICES THAT USE radiofrequency are gaining popularity. This article by Professor Terry Everitt discusses how radiofrequency impacts the skin for tightening and rejuvenation and while he refers to Thermage, this is purely for your information. Thermage® is the original manufacturer of radiofrequency technology for skin tightening treatments, however, be aware that there are other companies and machines using radiofrequency modality. Thermage® uses monopolar RF, while other machines may use unipolar or dual mode. Terry confirms that he has no financial or other interest in the company or procedure modality. When Thermage® was first introduced it was a doctor and nurse operated only deal, as it was considered outside the area of the beauty therapist. However, as educational level has increased and manufacturers have identified ways for safer use of radiofrequency, this technology is now more readily available also for non-medical practitioners. So, what does the technology provide? Thermage® is often thought of as a laser modality, which is incorrect. The procedure (also referred to as ThermaCool), employs a patented monopolar capacitive radiofrequency (CRF) technology and not light, as in the case of lasers. The procedure is non-invasive, non-ablative and non-laser. It has been described, as many other modalities have been, as a non-surgical facelift. It achieves its outcomes by working on the skin’s collagen to reduce wrinkles and sagging skin, not only on the face, but also applicable to the entire body. The Thermage RF energy actually denatures collagen causing a wound response and fresh collagen to be produced by the body and as a result, causes Fibrous Septae to shrink due to energy passing through and back to the Thermage system. There are therefore three mechanisms of action. THE ORIGIN OF THERMAGE The company’s literature states that Thermage® is a completely non-invasive, safe and clinically-proven way to tighten and contour skin, with improvements in tone, contour and texture occurring naturally through the stimulation of collagen. APJ 88
Thermage® was originally founded in 1995, by Dr. Edward W. Knowlton, who has authored over 20 patents that relate to its unique radiofrequency technology (As the inventor of the ThermaCool device, Dr. Knowlton's fundamental concepts and research in reverse thermal gradients provided the basis of the technology behind Thermage®, which has 33 issued patents and an additional 55 patent applications pending. This system, initially approved by Food and Drug Administration (FDA) of America in November 2002, is now available in 70 countries, including Australia. The Thermage® technology and machine was approved by the Therapeutic Goods Administration (TGA) here in Australia for use since May 2005.
Dr E. Knowlton HOW DOES THERMAGE® WORK? The method is based on the ability of radio-waves of a certain frequency to penetrate and be absorbed by body tissues. The absorption of radio-waves causes tissue heating as well as some structural molecular changes. (An essentially similar effect is used in microwave ovens where high-frequency radio waves heat and cook food.)
Thermage® uses a patented technique using a specially controlled CRF energy (capacitive radiofrequency) to both heat and cool the skin at the same time. With each touch to the skin, the ThermaTip™ device uniformly heats a volume of collagen in the deeper layers of the skin and its underlying tissue, while simultaneously helping to protect the outer layer of the skin with cooling. Each energy pulse takes two to seven seconds. The entire face may require between 600 and 900 pulses.
is able to provide some of the improvements that cosmetic facial surgery gives to people, but it is important to note that in a small portion of people no great improvements will be seen after the procedure.
Unlike other approaches, generally only one treatment is needed for the patient to see the effects and therefore multiple sessions are generally not required. Generally, patients may feel mild sunburn-like sensation or a bit of swelling after the procedure, but are able to immediately return to their normal daily lives. Directly, after the procedure the skin may feel tighter, smoother and more youthful. Published studies show that measurable tightening improvements appear gradually over two to six months after a single treatment session. However, many patients have reported seeing an earlier response (and some not much at all). Most people return to their regular activities immediately following the Thermage® procedure. No special care is needed after treatment unless otherwise instructed.
It also appears to work best in people with thin faces who are just on the verge of considering cosmetic facial surgery. People with very loose skin, sagging jowls and a turkey gobbler may see little improvement and are better suited for cosmetic surgery. If surgery is not an option, then Thermage® may provide some improvements but expectations need to be managed.
BEST CANDIDATES This procedure is not for everyone as it seems to work best for individuals who require 1-2 millimetres of tightening, compared with one or more centimetres offered in a brow lift. Good candidates are healthy, both physically and psychologically. Candidates should be well educated about the procedure and have realistic expectations. Although the procedure has been touted as a “non-surgical face lift”, it is not a substitute for a facelift. Thermage®
SIDE AFFECTS The Thermage® procedure has an excellent safety record. With over 310,000 estimated worldwide patient treatments to date the reported incidence of side effects is less than 0.11 per cent. The most frequently reported incidents are swelling and redness, risk of burn, blistering and scarring, tingling and/ or burning sensation for a few days after treatment, soreness, particularly around the jaw line. These side effects may resolve in a few days or weeks.
Thermage® is best performed during the early signs of ageing such as early jowls appearing on the jawline, loosening skin, creasing around the nose and mouth, wrinkling around the nose and mouth.
Considering its relatively modest tightening effect, it seems to best for those in their late thirties and forties who are only beginning to show facial sag. A great advantage over laserbased modalities for remodelling, is it works well on people with all skin types, unlike laser that can cause permanent loss or variable pigmentation in darker skinned individuals.
A more serious complication is the formation of dents in the skin (rare, <0.08%). This is attributed to overheating of tissue causing fat atrophy or excessive tightening. Doctors adhering to treatment guidelines and responding to patient feedback throughout the procedure should prevent this.
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BRIEF OUTLINE OF THE THERMAGEÂŽ PROCEDURE: A treatment grid is applied to guide and direct treatment so all necessary areas are treated without inadvertent overlapping of RF delivery. A fluid, called coupling fluid, is applied to the treatment areas. This provides a conductive medium to ensure good electrical and thermal contact with the skin and the treatment tip. Via the treatment tip, a combination of cooling spray and RF energy is delivered. The cooling spray continuously cools the outer layers of the skin to prevent any burning. Depending on pain threshold, the patient may feel nothing, mild warmth, intense warmth (heat), or possibly a little pain with each application of energy. RECOVERY Some redness and swelling may be experienced after the procedure, which may last for 1-2 hours, or at most, for a few days. The redness can easily be covered with makeup. Results are difficult to predict. As mentioned, it appears to be ineffective for some people. Some see an improvement immediately or within a few weeks, while others only see improvement after 2-3 months. New collagen will grow for up to six months after treatment, so improvements should be visible right up till this time. While still a relatively new cosmetic procedure, individuals treated in the early years still appear to be showing benefits from the treatment. It is thought that benefits from ThermageÂŽ may last as long as 5-10 years but only time will tell. ThermageÂŽ may be seen as a mid-range procedure - between topical treatments on one end, and a facelift and ablative resurfacing on the other. It seems to reduce sagging far less dramatically than a facelift and softens wrinkles less noticeably than ablative laser. However, the risks, recovery time and side effects profile are significantly better. All have to be taken into consideration when deciding on the best possible solution to the presenting concern. This radio frequency modality is yet just another in the range available to the cosmetic consumer. Whether it is better or not than something else, needs to be considered within the limitations of it power and expectations of the patient. To provide possible balance, the last word will be left to patients who have undergone the procedure and have posted their comments and experience, good and bad on this website. DEFINITIONS Capacitance The ratio of the electric charge transferred from one to the other of a pair of conductors to the resulting potential difference between them. The property of a capacitor or other device to hold a charge. It is measured in Farads (F). Radio frequency A frequency in the range within which radio waves may be transmitted, from about 3 kilohertz to about 300,000 megahertz. IMAGES: The images were supplied by the New Zealand Dermatological Society APJ
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ARE YOUR DOCUMENTS LEGALLY COMPLIANT AND UP-TO-DATE? With the support of their lawyers APAN has developed 48 REGULATORY AND BEST PRACTICE DOCUMENTS to help you streamline your business’s backend, ensure your regulatory compliance and achieve a level of excellence and order in how you run your business.
LEGALLY COMPLIANT INFORM CONSENT FORMS FOR • IPL/Laser • Skin Needling • Cosmetic Tattooing • Photographing your clients • And much more …
ARE YOUR POLICIES LEGALLY WRITEN AND UP-TO-DATE? • Privacy Policy • Cancellation Policy • Refund Policy
STAFFING AGREEMENTS REGULATIONS BUSINESS DEVELOPMENTS
ESTABLISHING COMPLIANCE WILL ALLOW YOU TO INTRODUCE A LEVEL OF CALM, ORDER AND GREATER PEACE OF MIND. (07) 5593 0360
info@apanetwork.com
www.apanetwork.com/courses
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RESEARCH
Anti-ageing and the Emerging Philosophy of Positive Ageing Tina Viney
MY ASSOCIATION OVER 10 YEARS WITH THE AUSTRALASIAN ACADEMY OF ANTI-AGEING MEDICINE (A5M) has allowed me to gain a wealth of knowledge from academic experts on what science is saying about staying healthy and youthful, as much as possible - and who doesn’t want that? Our society is obsessed with the notion of “staying youthful” and pushing back the appearance of ageing with all the wrinkles and aches and pains that come with it. Yet, while the world’s appetitive for anti-ageing solutions is unsatiable, we are seeing the dawn of a new movement towards healthy, or positive ageing. Whether we like it on not we cannot freeze our existence in time, however, what is more attainable is to celebrate life and invest in strategies that will allow ageing to be experienced with optimism, wisdom and with strategies that are more realistic, focusing on making the most of our life and improving the quality, rather than stopping the clock. In this article, we explore some of these strategies and revisit the notion of what it means to optimise healthy and positive ageing. HEALTHY AGEING How do you feel about growing old? For some, it’s a scary time filled with change and loneliness. But it doesn’t need to be that way. In fact, it shouldn’t. We’re social creatures and growing old isn’t a solo sport. That’s what positive ageing is all about. How we choose to define, view and accept the changes is crucial to our ability to “age gracefully.” Positive ageing allows us to weather the expected and unexpected changes we experience. We’re living longer. How will we plan and prepare for the next decades of your life? So, what is positive ageing? This is an interesting question. Worldwide cultures don’t define it the same way. Those who revere their elders look to them for wisdom and guidance. These cultures don’t see their APJ 92
elders as a burden or hinderance. They respect them. Other cultures — those who value youth and physical beauty more than the wisdom that can come with age — have a different perspective. Oftentimes, it’s those in this group who choose to fight ageing. Ageing is inevitable. We all know this to be true, but as you continue reading, you will learn that while some people believe ageing is a disease and they believe it is curable, others take on a more philosophical approach. But, let’s first start with looking at how the concept of ageing is defined by various cultures. I think you will find this interesting: UNITED KINGDOM: A way of living rather than a state of being – http://positiveageing.org.uk/ AUSTRALIA: The process of maintaining a positive attitude, feeling good about yourself, keeping fit and healthy, and engaging fully in life as you age. – Positive Psychology Institute. NEW ZEALAND: Positive ageing reflects the attitudes and experiences older people have about themselves and how younger generations view the process of ageing. It takes into account the health, financial security, independence, selffulfilment, personal safety and living environment of older New Zealanders. – Ministry of Social Development. UNITED STATES: Successful ageing is multidimensional, encompassing the avoidance of disease and disability, the maintenance of high physical and cognitive function, and sustained engagement in social and productive activities. – Rowe & Kahn, 1997. WORLD HEALTH ORGANIZATION (WHO): The process of developing and maintaining the functional ability that enables wellbeing in older age. JAPAN: Japanese conceptions of ageing are rooted in Buddhist, Confucian, and Taoist philosophical traditions that characterise ageing as maturity. Old age is thus understood
as a socially valuable part of life, even a time of “spring” or “rebirth” after a busy period of working and raising children. – Karasawa, Curhan, Markus, Kitayama, Love, Radler, & Ryff (2011). CHINA: The criteria are sufficiently inclusive, encompassing physical health, mental health, social engagement, and nutritional status, which in principle are in conformity with both the WHO definition and the Rowe and Kahn model. – Zhou, Liu, & Yu (2018) referencing the Chinese health criteria for the elderly. EASTERN EUROPE: Active ageing is concerned with facilitating the rights of older people to remain healthy (reducing the costs of health and social care), remain in employment longer (reducing pension costs), while also participating in community and political life. – Foster & Walker (2015). As we can see, successful ageing and active ageing aren’t defined the same way worldwide. The former tends to follow the definition put forth by Rowe & Kahn (1997). The latter is akin to a life course-oriented perspective (Foster & Walker, 2015). Also, the studies indicated that positive ageing is closer to the definition of active ageing. These terms are sometimes used interchangeably. So, it’s good to know where the research originates. Other terms you might read are healthy ageing, positive ageing, productive ageing, and competent ageing (Foster & Walker, 2015). Again, each differs in meaning, but successful and active ageing dominate the research. Cathleen Toomey discusses the upside of ageing in her Tedx Piscataqua River talk, The Secret of Successful Ageing. The key? Don’t let loneliness take over your life. Real conversations are the answer. We’re social beings and need to stay connected to others. She also suggests these three things: •
Celebrate your age
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Defy expectations
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Grow friendships
ECONOMIES AND OPPORTUNITIES You might be curious why this is such a hot topic. The World Health Organisation (WHO) estimates that by the year 2050, the number of people over the age of 60 will be two-billion? In 2020 this age group has out-numbered children less than 5-years old. Because people are living longer, many countries must adapt their health policies. Now more than in the past, we must consider how to better assist the transition from middle to old-age. We must also re-evaluate what “old” means. As campaigns encourage engaging in an active lifestyle, more older adults continue working. This can ease the burden placed on pension programs. It also creates business opportunities. The greying of societies shifts the economic focus. Businesses can develop products and services to address the needs of older adults. A LOOK AT THE PSYCHOLOGY OF AGEING Ageing can be difficult to accept. Our body might not be able to do the things it did when we were young. Bones break easier. Aches and pains can be a daily occurrence. Our vision becomes impaired. Our hair turns grey or white. Sometimes it falls out. Our noses and ears stretch. We get shorter. These experiences have a psychological impact on us. This is especially true in cultures that don’t revere their elders. As we age and become less valued in our society, we struggle to find our place. We have to redefine who we are and identify our purpose. Studies suggest that by 2030, it’s estimated that 15 million older adults will need mental and behavioural care. Coping with one’s disease or the disease of a loved one can contribute to anxiety and depression. The loss of autonomy and loneliness also contributes to poor mental health.
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WHAT DOES THE RESEARCH SAY AND THE TELOMERE THEORY? It all begins with Elizabeth Blackburn’s childhood fascination with life. She wanted to know everything she could about chromosomes. Blackburn was specifically interested in the ends where the telomeres are. She wanted to know what’s inside telomeres, but she needed a lot of them to figure this out. Pond scum was the answer. Every time DNA gets copied in humans, the telomeres at the ends get worn down. She learned that telomeres found in pond scum don’t shorten. Blackburn set out to find out what kept them from shortening and dying off. As she studied, her research led to the discovery of telomerase. This is an enzyme that fixes the caps at the end of our chromosomes. The shortening of telomeres is what creates the signs of ageing. For example, grey hair, wrinkles, and a weak immune system. The longer our telomeres, the less the effects of ageing. How do we get more telomerase? On the surface, it’s not an easy answer. As she points out, we can’t go to Amazon and buy a big jug of telomerase. Having less leads to certain diseases associated with ageing, but too many increases our risk of some cancers. Blackburn defines health span as the number of years we’re healthy, disease-free, and have a zest for life. How do we do that? And, what role can or do telomeres play? Blackburn, along with a fellow researcher, set their sights on a real-world telomeres question. So, they decided to also look at what happens to people under consistent and constant psychological stress? They studied caregivers whose children had a chronic condition. The more years a mother cared for their child, the shorter their telomeres. The woman’s age didn’t matter. The more the mother perceived her situation as stressful the less telomerase she had. Some mothers maintained their telomeres. They were resilient and viewed their situation as a challenge. This reduced their perceived stress. Life events and the way we respond to them is something we can control. She and her research partners received the 2009 Nobel Prize in Physiology or Medicine. Over 10,000 papers up to 2017 support Blackburn’s findings. WHAT CAN WE DO? One study Blackburn referenced used meditation. The caregivers practiced for 12 minutes/day for two months. This improved their maintenance level of telomeres. Another study highlighted the issue of attitude. Change your attitude and you will live longer. If you’re negative, your body gets a surge of the stress hormone cortisol. This hurts your telomerase and telomeres. Approaching stressful situations as a challenge, creates a surge of cortisol, too. But, in this case, it’s temporary and useful. Your telomeres are fine. Can outside factors affect our telomeres? Are they social? Violence, bullying and being subjected to aggressive behaviour have a long-term negative affect on a person’s telomeres. People living in a dangerous neighbourhood with no sense of community, have shorter telomeres. On the other hand, healthy communities, being in a marriage long-term, and having lifelong friendships, maintain telomeres. Healthy
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relationships give us purpose to live and our telomeres like that, so they support us. HOW DOES THE DEFINITION OF WELLBEING CHANGE WITH AGE? There’s no consensus around a definition of well-being. At its core it is, “judging life positively and feeling good,” From this perspective, any major life event can positively or negatively affect it. Age doesn’t matter. From a general perspective, cultural differences predict subjective well-being. These include, cultural differences about the wealth of a nation and its effect on SWB. Some studies show that people in wealthier countries don’t feel more positive emotions. They think they’re happier, but they’re not when compared to people in poorer countries. Personal factors predict emotional well-being (Suh, E. M. & Choi, S., 2018). There also are cultural differences in defining happiness. Several studies compare collectivistic and individualistic cultures. The former tends to view it from an external, societal vantage point. The latter takes a more internal, personal perspective (Suh, E. M. & Choi, S., 2018). BRAIN PLASTICITY AND AGEING This is another interesting one. What the studies confirm is that neuroplasticity doesn’t stop at age 55. The plasticity in the older brain is in a different area than in younger brains. In older brains, the change is in white matter. White matter houses the brains axons covered in myelin. Myelin makes the transfer of signals faster. In Yotsumoto & Chang’s (2014) study, when older adults learned a new visual task, the white matter in their brains changed. This change was significant. Younger brains show changes in the cortex. Park & Bischof (2013) examined the effect of brain training on adult learners. They wanted to know if the aged brain changes in response to stimulation. From their findings, they believe that changes in activation might be due to strategies employed by the participants. Park & Bischof couldn’t rule out that changes in neural activity indicated neural plasticity. Cognitive training or participation in demanding tasks can improve cognitive function. This training-specific activity doesn’t have “far-transfer.” Far-transfer is the ability to apply the training to other tasks with similar processes. Park & Bischof acknowledged that the “persistence of training effects” is “impressive.” The researchers argue that pleasurable leisure activities are better than computer-based training. Pauwels, Chalavi, and Swinnen (2018) found that older adults learned tasks better when using a random practice schedule. In their study, they compared young and old participants’ ability to learn three versions of a bimanual visuomotor tracking task. They split participants between a block or random training schedule. Block schedules are more sequential and less demanding. Training happened over a 3-day period with follow-up after six days. Both groups experienced temporary bad performance during the acquisition stage. This was due to contextual interference effects. In the retention phase, both groups demonstrated superior skills. The bottom line is as we age, not only can we still learn
that Sardinia has the most male centenarians. They wrote about this for the Journal of Experimental Gerontology. Blue Zones founder, Dan Buettner, decided to see if there were other ‘hot spots’ like Sardinia. In collaboration with demographers and researchers, Buettner identified nine specific lifestyle habits of the Blue Zones. So, here are the magical 10 strategies that were common to all within these locations. Move Naturally People in the Blue Zones live in areas that push them to move without thinking much about it. Their exercise includes activities like gardening. Purpose Called ‘Ikigai’ by the Okinawans, this is your reason for getting up in the morning. Find it and you’ll live about seven years longer.
complex tasks, we can retain our learning as well as a younger person. Older adults also have the benefit of crystallised intelligence. This is one’s ability to combine learned knowledge with experience to tackle new problems. This form of intelligence grows with age. DISENGAGEMENT THEORY AND THE ACTIVITY THEORY This is also very interesting. The activity theory proposes that ageing adults who engage in daily activities, which they perceive as productive, age successfully. It takes into account the value of social interactions in ageing gracefully. People are happier when engaged in activities they enjoy. The study highlighted the importance of autonomy, competence, and relatedness to increase intrinsic motivation. Combining the two concepts it’s easy to see why a person’s day-to-day happiness is greater. On the other hand, the disengagement theory discusses that as people age, they may feel that they are not as agile or able to perform tasks as they use to, so they prefer to disengage for fear of embarrassing themselves. This ultimately leads to lowering of self-esteem and their purpose for living. The importance of maintaining meaningful activities was considered paramount to healthy ageing. HOW DOES ATTITUDE IMPACT AGEING? The Irish Longitudinal Study on Ageing (TILDA) offers a plethora of data. Its comprehensive research studies have garnered international attention. In 2016, their researchers shared, you are only as old as you feel! The report highlights two important findings about attitude. Older adults with negative attitudes towards ageing had slower walking speed and worse cognitive abilities two years later, compared to older adults with more positive attitudes towards ageing. This was true even after participants’ medications, mood, their life circumstances and other health changes that had occurred over the same two-year period were accounted for. Their conclusion? “Negative perceptions of ageing may modify the association between frailty and frontal cognitive domains in older adults.” 10 TIPS AND STRATEGIES TO PROMOTE POSITIVE AGEING There are five places in the world where people live longer than anywhere else. Known as The Blue Zones they include Ikaria, Greece; Loma Linda, California; Sardinia, Italy; Okinawa, Japan; and, Nicoya, Costa Rica. Researchers, Gianni Pes and Michel Poulain discovered
Down Shift Learn how to manage stress. People in Blue Zones pray, remember their ancestors, take naps, or engage in happy hour. 80% Rule Stop eating before you’re full. Eat your smallest meal in the late afternoon or early evening, and don’t eat anything else. This is how Blue Zone people live longer. They control their weight. Plant Slant Eat more beans. Some people in the Blue Zones eat pork, but not more than a handful of times in a month. Serving sizes are 3-4 oz. Wine at 5 Buettner discovered that everyone in the Blue Zones except Adventists, drink alcohol. They drink 1-2 glasses/ day with friends and/or with food. He suggests Sardinian Cannonau wine. Belong Most of the centenarians belonged to a faith-based community. Their research shows that attending services four times per month adds 4-14 year to your life. Loved Ones First Blue Zone people put family and their partners first. Ageing parents and grandparents often live in the same home with their children, or nearby. This lowers disease and mortality rates of children in the home, according to Buettner’s team. Right Tribe Centenarians either chose their social circles or were born into them. Those circles supported healthy behaviours. IN CONCLUSION If we were to sum up the keys to healthy ageing and longevity, we would come back to the seven pillars of anti-ageing – it is never about one thing. Several studies indicate that longevity is about balance of all these areas to sustain health living. These are: • Diet •
Movement
•
Sleep and stress management
•
Cognitive health
•
Positive mental attitude
•
Purpose
•
Love, belonging and community
While we work on improving the appearance of our clients, we also need to be mindful to foster a health and wellbalanced attitude to quality of life and wellbeing. APJ
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SKIN
FIVE IMPORTANT FACTS ABOUT RETINOL
Can you have too much of a good thing? Dr Tiina Meder Meder Beauty Science
COMING INTO SUMMER THERE ARE CERTAIN precautions that we need to bear-in-mind, especially when using highly active ingredients in our prescriptive skincare. One such ingredient no-doubt is retinol. By now, you are most likely familiar with how amazing retinoids are for the skin – and for good reason. They have been proven in study-after-study to encourage cellular turnover and stimulate collagen production, help treat acne, fade pigmentation, soften wrinkles and give the skin an overall youthful glow. Their existence to the skincare industry is highly esteemed due to the incredible amount of scientifically-validated studies that support their efficacy. However, this class of actives also carry certain risks that we need to be made aware of. To give us some valuable tips, renowned dermatologist and formulator of Meder Beauty Science Dr Tiina Meder shares with us five important facts about retinols.
1. Retinoic acid and retinoids are derivatives of vitamin A. They play a major role in the development of many organs as well as contribute to the metabolic processes of different tissues. While we know that retinoic acid and retinoids contribute to skin improvement, they
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also carry risks as they can penetrate beyond the skin. Therefore, retinol and its derivatives should be treated with caution, even if applied only topically. For example, retinol and its derivatives could interact with the embryo’s nervous system, which is why they are not recommended during pregnancy and breastfeeding. Most well-respected dermatologists also recommend that such skincare products be stopped even if a woman is just in the planning stages of starting a family. 2. Retinol is one of the most powerful and well-known cosmetic ingredients and one of the few that is capable of penetrating through cellular membranes directly into skin cells. Once retinol or its derivatives are inside the cells, they alter the expression of genes involved in cellular proliferation and differentiation, which means they are technically epigenetically active. Retinol is able to prevent both specific collagen-destroying enzyme activation and oxidative stress, while also stimulating the regeneration of deep skin structure. 3. Here are some fun facts about retinoid molecules: They can absorb UV light, acting as an SPF filter. Unfortunately, they also increase the skin’s sensitivity
to UV radiation because they can significantly speed up skin renewal. The risk of sun-induced dermatitis or pigmentation is very high when using retinolcontaining products, so dermatologists are tirelessly advising their patients to religiously protect their skin from the sun at all times when using retinol-based skincare. For this reason, it is advisable to apply retinol-based skincare during the evening rather than during the day. 4. Retinyl acetate and Retinyl palmitate are considered to be the least effective topical retinoids, as well as Retinyl propionate, which doesn’t demonstrate any difference from placebo in clinical trials. The most effective (and the most aggressive) ingredients are retinol itself and retinoic acid. Both of them demonstrate clinical improvement in fine lines and skin elasticity after a few weeks of treatment, but the recommended duration of treatment is only three months. Side effects, nevertheless, could be significant, including skin dryness, high sensitivity and irritation, photosensitivity and redness which can persist for weeks. Another effective form is Retinaldehyde, which is well tolerated and allows comfortable prolonged use on the face and neck area.
5. The duration of retinol (retinaldehyde, retinoic acid) treatment is a subject of debate. The first noticeable effects of retinol are achieved in about four weeks of use. Sadly, side effects could manifest earlier than that and demotivate patients to prolong the treatment, although this is a rare case. To obtain maximum results, dermatologists recommend using retinol-based skincare for 18-20 consecutive weeks. Longer use, however, can diminish the results, so one must be careful. The effect after 44 weeks of use is still significant but less pronounced, and the skin can become hypersensitive, dry, flaky and prone to redness. Retinol speeds up the process of epidermal renewal in a similar way as AHAs and BHAs, such as glycolic acid, salicylic acid and others. It is strongly advised to avoid the use of retinol in conjunction with acids such as glycolic acid and salicylic acid as this could be dangerous. The only exception being certain chemical peels — but these should only be applied by qualified and appropriately trained professionals. APJ
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INGREDIENT RESEARCH
Vitamin C in the Spotlight Tina Viney
WHEN WORKING WITH FORMULATIONS it is important to seek the scientific evidence behind what is proven in terms of delivery capabilities and results. Becoming familiar with this data will allow you to determine potential outcomes when planning a treatment program. The following is an extract from a study conduction by Indian Dermatology Online Journal that examined the different types of Vitamin C and the level of penetration enhancement when combined with equipment technologies. ABSTRACT Vitamin C (Vit. C) is one of the naturally occurring antioxidants in nature. Most plants and animals are able to synthesise Vit. C in vivo from glucose. Humans and certain other vertebrates lack the enzyme L-glucono-gamma lactone oxidase required for in vivo synthesis of Vit. C; hence, they must acquire it from natural sources such as citrus fruits, green leafy vegetables, strawberries, papaya and broccoli. The word “Ascorbus” means no Scurvy. Traditionally, Vit. C-rich foods like lemons were carried by sailors on long journeys to avoid Scurvy, a disease of bleeding gums. In 1937, Dr. Albert Szent Goyrgi was awarded the Nobel Prize for his work in isolating the Vit. C molecule from red peppers and identifying its role in Scurvy. L-ascorbic acid (LAA) is the chemically active form of Vit. C. In nature, Vit. C is found in equal parts as LAA and D-ascorbic acid. These are essentially isomeric molecules and are mutually interchangeable. However, only LAA is biologically active and thus useful in medical practice. The absorption of Vit. C in the gut is limited by an active transport mechanism and hence a finite amount of the drug is absorbed despite high oral dosage. Furthermore, bioavailability of Vit. C in the skin is inadequate when it is administered orally. The use of topical ascorbic acid is therefore favoured in the practice of dermatology. THE BIOCHEMISTRY OF VITAMIN C Vit. C has a 5-hydrocarbon ring similar to that of glucose. With an attached hydrogen ion, LAA becomes a weak sugar acid, similar to other alfa hydroxy acids used in dermatology. With a metal ion, it forms a mineral ascorbate. There is a marked
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interest in synthesis of physiologically active and chemically stable ascorbate molecules as LAA is unstable in nature, especially when exposed to light. MECHANISM OF ACTION OF VITAMIN C WITH REFERENCE TO DERMATOLOGY Topical formulations of Vitamin C Vit. C is available in the market as a variety of creams, serum and transdermal patches. Of these, only the serum contains active Vit. C in an almost colourless form provide the best results. However, Vitamin C is unstable and on exposure to light, gets oxidized to Dehydro Ascorbic Acid (DHAA), which imparts a yellow colour. The stability of Vit. C is controlled by maintaining a pH of less than 3.5. At this pH, the ionic charge on the molecule is removed and it is transported well across the stratum corneum. From a clinical point of view, it is important to note that the efficacy of the Vit. C serum is proportional to the concentration, but only up to 20%. The half-life in the skin after achieving maximum concentration is four days. A persistent reservoir of Vit. C is important for adequate photoprotection, and can be achieved by regular 8-hourly applications. As UV light lowers tissue Vit. C levels, topical Vit. C is best used after exposure to UV light and not prior. A combination of tyrosine, zinc and Vit. C has been shown to increase the bioavailability of Vit. C 20-times vis-à-vis using just Vit. C. A variety of creams with Vit. C derivatives are available in the market. As a dermatologist or skincare practitioner, it is important to know that not all preparations are physiologically effective. Some are not delivered into the dermis in an adequate quantity, while others do not chemically convert to the biologically active form of Vit. C in the skin. Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (MAP) is the most stable and preferred ascorbyl ester. This lipophilic molecule is easily absorbed into the skin, and the rate-limiting step for absorption is its release from the vehicle, and not the rate of diffusion across the stratum corneum as one might suppose. MAP has a hydrating effect on the skin and decreases trans-
epidermal water loss. It is also a free radical scavenger that is photoprotective and increases collagen production under laboratory test conditions. Other useful stable esterified derivatives are:
1. Ascorbyl 6 palmitate, a lipophilic free radical scavenger that hydrolyses to Vit. C and palmitic acid. 2. Disodium isostearyl 2-0 L-ascorbyl phosphate (VCPIS-Na), another reliable and popular derivative of Vit. C with a C8 alkyl chain attached to the stable ascorbyl moiety. This ensures increased permeability across the epidermis 3. Ascorbic acid sulphate is a metabolite of vitamin C. 4. Tetraisopalmitoyl ascorbic acid, a lipophilic provitamin and sodium ascorbate, are derivatives under research. Adverse reactions of topical Vitamin C Topical Vit. C is largely safe to use on a daily basis for long durations. It can safely be used in conjunction with other common topical anti-ageing agents such as sunscreens, tretinoin, other antioxidants and alfa hydroxy acids such as glycolic acid. Minor adverse reactions include a yellowish discoloration of the skin, hypopigmented hair and staining of clothes, which occur due to oxidative changes of Vit. C. Once applied, Vit. C cannot be fully washed or wiped off the skin. Rarely, stinging, erythema and dryness are observed after use of topical Vit. C. These can easily be treated using a moisturiser. Care must be taken while applying Vit. C around the eyes. Urticaria and erythema multiforme following the use of topical Vit. C, have been documented. The toxic doses of Vit. C that leads to cellular apoptosis under laboratory conditions are 100-200-times the daily recommended dose, giving Vit. C a very high safety profile. Future developments As Vit. C is hydrophilic, there is a marked interest to find methods of efficient trans-epidermal delivery of the stable active compound. If antioxidants could be delivered in high concentration through the stratum corneum barrier, then a
dermal reservoir of protective antioxidant could be increased and thus photoprotection would be enhanced. As stated earlier, the use of stable lipophilic esterified derivatives of Vit. C is being explored for the purpose. Extensive research is underway to investigate microspheres, nanoparticles and multilayered microemulsions for graded topical delivery. Trials have been performed with Vit. C and Vit. E in the same multilayered emulsions together. Technologies to enhance Vitamin C penetration Both electroporation and iontophoresis have been used to enhance penetration of Vit. C into the dermis. Application of Vit. C to the treated skin surface after microdermabrasion and CO2Â or Er-Yag resurfacing increases the trans-epidermal penetration of Vit. C by 20-times. It has also been observed that Vit. C is a good priming agent and a post-operative agent for the prevention of erythema following laser resurfacing. Smokers have been found to have low Vit. C levels in the dermis, akin to UV-damaged skin. Smoking-related skin ageing is another area where efficacy of Vit. C is being explored. Another very useful application of Vit. C may be striae, where a study has shown that daily application of Vit. C combined with 20% glycolic acid over three months can significantly improve striae. CONCLUSION To summarise, the study concluded that Vit.C is a naturally occurring drug with multiple desirable effects. The findings of this study confirmed that Vit.C has an excellent safety profile and is beneficial in in addressing conditions such as photoageing, hyperpigmentation, tissue inflammation and the promotion of tissue healing. Ongoing research has been directed toward improving its delivery into the dermis for stimulating collagen production and scavenging free radicals. Vit. C thus holds promise as a mainstream drug in future dermatology practice. While there are many forms of Vit.C their efficacy in a formulation will depend on the delivery system used and how the stability of the active has been secured. When working with cosmeceuticals it is important to ask questions of the formulator and be convinced of the integrity of the productâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s ability to deliver the outcome you are looking for. APJ
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SCIENTIFIC NEWS
SARS-COV-2 CAN LIVE ON THE SKIN FOR 9 HOURS AND SURFACES FOR 28 DAYS A new study from the Kyoto Prefectural University of Medicine has found that SARS-CoV-2 can live on the skin for much longer than the influenza A virus. The researchers found that SARSCoV-2 lived for 9.04 hours on the skin and influenza A virus lived for 1.82 hours. When the researchers mixed the virus with mucus, COVID-19 lasted an additional two hours. The study highlights the need for active handwashing and hygiene. Fortunately, both viruses were deactivated in just 15 seconds after 80 per cent ethanol hand sanitizer was applied. In another study that has just been published, Australia’s national science agency CSIRO found the virus was extremely robust at 20 degrees Celsius, which is about room temperature, surviving for 28 days on smooth surfaces such as stainless steel, glass, as well as Australian plastic banknotes, yet survived for less time at hotter temperatures. Researchers point out that the persistence on glass is an important finding, given that touchscreen
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devices such as mobile phones, bank ATMs, supermarket self-serve checkouts and airport check-in kiosks are all high touch surfaces, which may not be regularly cleaned and therefore pose a transmission risk of SARS-CoV-2. Riddell, S., Goldie, S., Hill, A., Eagles, D., & Drew, T. (2020). The effect of temperature on persistence of SARS.CoV.2 on common surfaces, Virology Journal, 17(145). doi. org/10.1186/s12985-020-01418-7 There have been many studies regarding the life cycle viability of SARS-CoV-2, with more recent expanding the life cycle of the virus in terms of infection capabilities, apart from the new evidence regarding strain modifications and the spike adaptations. APJ
RATE AND RISK FACTORS FOR KERATOACANTHOMA AMONG RESIDENTS OF QUEENSLAND, AUSTRALIA A recent study of data from 40,438 of 193,344 randomly selected residents of Queensland, reported a high incidence of KA (409 individuals per 100000 person-years). The mean age of respondents was 56, with 18,240 being male.
Keratoacanthoma (KA) is a common and generally benign keratinocyte skin tumour, that is similar to cutaneous squamous cell carcinoma (cSCC). Not surprisingly, the main independent risk factors for Keratoacanthomas were found to be males over 60, with sensitivity to UV radiation, indications of high sun exposure (e.g. previous excisions of keratinocyte cancers), smoking and high alcohol use. Such etiologic factors of KA are similar to those of other keratinocyte cancers, especially to those of cSCC. Claeson, M., Pandeya, N., Dusingize, C., Thompson, B., Green, A., Neale, R., Olsen, C., & Whiteman, D. (2020). Assessment of Incidence Rate and
Research and Scientific New Developments In every issue of the journal, Terry Everitt our scientific educator, conveys a few items of scientific interest. In italics, are his thoughts on the subject matter of the research study.
Risk Factors for Keratoacanthoma Among Residents of Queensland, Australia. JAMA Dermatology, [E-pub October 7, 2020], doi:10.1001/ jamadermatol.2020.4097 The incidence of KA in this study is 2.5 times higher than that documented in a 1979 study conducted in three Australian pathology departments, which found incidence of approximately 150 cases per 100,000. [Sullivan, J. J. (1997). Keratoacanthoma: the Australian experience. Australasian Journal of Dermatology, 38(suppl 1), S36-S39. doi:10.1111/j.1440-0960.1997.tb01007.x]
used the same method of testing as used to detect mad cow’s disease. Parkinson’s disease arises from misfolded alpha-synuclein proteins that accumulate in the brain leading to neuronal damage, however getting brain biopsies has been difficult
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Manne, S., Kondru, N., Jin, H., Serrano, G., Anantharam, V., Kanthasamy, A., Adler, C., Beach, T., & Kanthasamy, A. (2020). Blinded RT‐QuIC Analysis of α‐Synuclein Biomarker in Skin Tissue from Parkinson’s Disease Patients. Movement Disorders, [e-published 22 September 2020]. DOI: 10.1002/ mds.28242 Obviously more testing needs to occur, however this does lead to the possibility of early testing and treatment for Parkinson’s. Such early detection is necessary for the prevention of accumulative brain damage. While this may not impact you in practice, it adds to a plethora of skinbased diagnostics that while still in the laboratory, in time will be available via the medical profession and those that directly deal with the skin as their profession. APJ
A small proof-of-concept study of a single botulinum neurotoxin A (BoNT-A) injection at a dilution of 5 units per cm2, with a maximum of 50 units. Total clinical score on desquamation, erythema, and infiltration parameters all showed improvement, from mean average of 8 to 4.92, a significant difference with no adverse effects. These results are concordant with other studies that have shown an improvement of psoriasis plaques following BoNT injections which is showing some remarkable results in treatment of recalcitrant psoriasis lesions. González C, Franco M, Londoño A, Valenzuela F. Breaking paradigms in the treatment of psoriasis: Use of botulinum toxin for the treatment of plaque psoriasis [published online September 19, 2020]. Dermatology Therapies. doi: https://doi.org/10.1111/dth.14319 While this small study is not generalisable by itself, it does add
A SIMPLE SKIN TEST CAN ACCURATELY IDENTIFY PARKINSON’S DISEASE Although widespread in the population, Parkinson’s disease is diagnosed by clinical signs and symptoms, but only definitively diagnosed at autopsy, which obviously is a little late. Recently, the skin has given another of its remarkable secrets in being about to detect Parkinson’s in the early stages. Researchers showed how a chemical assay can detect clumping of the protein alpha-synuclein in skin samples to help diagnose Parkinson’s disease, accurately diagnosing 49 of 50 Parkinson’s cases and no indication in non-Parkinson control samples. Strangely, the research
BOTULINUM TOXIN SHOWS PROMISE FOR PSORIASIS Yet another study has shown promise for recalcitrant psoriatic lesions to standard therapy.
to the medical literature showing the lethal toxin has greater use than first thought. Just another example of the breadth and depth of medical research, not looking for new substances, yet using the ones we have in completely different ways. APJ
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SCIENTIFIC NEWS ahead of print 2020. https://doi. org/10.1016/j.jaci.2020.05.048 While the sample collection is much simpler, the time-consuming RNA isolation process is complicated. Yet, with current technological progress, I am sure it will not be too long before such testing is commercially available. Tape strips provide complete discrimination between AD and psoriasis with accurate detection of diseaseassociated cytokines and pathways. This may provide a useful alternative to biopsies for tracking cutaneous disease activity in longitudinal studies and clinical trials. APJ
DISTINGUISH ATOPIC DERMATITIS AND PSORIASIS WITH NONBIOPSY ACCURACY Researchers have developed a simple tape strip method of clinically
cytokines, which are known distinct to psoriasis. Additionally, the researchers found a single gene biomarker, nitride oxide synthase 2 (NOS2) that can distinguish with 100 per cent accuracy between atopic dermatitis (AD) and psoriasis.
DOES DIET MATTER WHEN IT COMES TO ADULT ACNE?
and histopathological determining a clear difference between atopic dermatitis (AD) and psoriasis. While these are different, clinically in the early stages, they may be similar in presentation. Skin biopsy is the gold standard diagnostic yet causes pain, scarring, and increased risk of infection. Tape stripping showed expressed cell markers related to T helper 2 (Th2) immune response, characteristic to AD, different to Th1 and Th17
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Graphic representation - Tape strips detect distinct immune and barrier profiles in atopic dermatitis and psoriasis He, H., Bissonnette, R., Wu, J., Diaz, A., Saint-Cyr Proulx, E., Maari, C., Jack, MD, C., Louis, M., Estrada, Y., Krueger, J., Zhang, N., Pavel, A., Guttman-Yassky, E. (2020). Tape strips detect distinct immune and barrier profiles in atopic dermatitis and psoriasis. Journal of Allergy and Clinical Immunology. E-press
Adult acne, which is a common condition, is exceptionally complicated in aetiology. Three prime factors need to occur â&#x20AC;&#x201C; hyperkeratosis, increased sebum and increased bacterial count. So how can food affect these factors? A recent study indicated some interesting findings that suggested that it does not play as strong as role as frequently presented in the media. The next step, however, is to review the inflammatory response and the immune system reaction. The study revealed that some foods can induce or increase inflammation in susceptible
Research and Scientific New Developments In every issue of the journal, Terry Everitt our scientific educator, conveys a few items of scientific interest. In italics, are his thoughts on the subject matter of the research study.
people with diary and sugar identified as responsible for significant triggers for some individuals. The study was quite extensive reviewing 24,000 adults. However, here are the limitations that come in: The average age was 57 years. Each participant undertook a 24-hour food diary however, such methodology is not considered the most convincing scientific study. Dietary records can be faulty due to recall bias. The acne was also self-diagnosed by the respondents so who knows what they might have had. It appears that there was no correlation as to the many confounders, such as those who drank more milk, had an overall healthy diet, or who consumed diary. Not surprisingly, however, those with a diet high in the combination of high-fat and high-sugar foods selfreported higher association with acne.
BIOMECHANICAL EFFECTS OF SKIN RUBBING
The authors correctly state that ‘consumption of milk, sugary beverages, and fatty and sugary products appeared to be associated with current acne in adults.’ Notice the ‘appeared to be’, not an absolute causative.
We all know that rubbing the skin can help with product penetration, but exactly how has been somewhat a mystery. A recent study conducted by the Tohoku University researchers has found exactly how this occurs.
Penso, L., Touvier, M., Deschasaux, M., Szabo de edelenyi, F., Hercberg, S., Ezzedine, K., & Sbidian, E. (2020). Association Between Adult Acne and Dietary Behaviors: Findings from the NutriNet-Santé Prospective Cohort Study. JAMA Dermatology, 156(8), 854–862. doi:10.1001/ jamadermatol.2020.1602
The study identified that rubbing caused keratinocytes and wrinkles to shrink in the direction of the rubbing, creating gaps between the deform keratinocytes, degrading the skin’s barrier function via increasing the extremely small (130 Å) gaps in the lipid bilayers of the lamellar structure.
Did the acne or the diet come first? I have always believed that foods do not cause acne; however, high intake of some foods – dairy and sugar is not helpful if one has acne. Moderation in diet choice rather than extremes of anything seems to remain the best course of food choice and this was supported by the study. As further knowledge on acne continues to grow, a clear guideline may appear regarding dietary interactions. The study confirmed that no one diet or food will cause or cure acne. It is the personal biochemistry that allows some people to eat whatever they wish without significant consequences, while others are more sensitive. APJ
Using a gear rotated against skin samples at differing rates and pressures, the damage that occurred by rubbing was measured by the uptake of fluorescent dye as it permeated, due to increasing damage to the corneum barrier. It was possible to evaluate cell deformation in terms of the aspect ratio, area, and orientation angle applied simulating pressure equating to clothing, facial mask with strings, surgical tape and sportswear. While it is known that rubbing the skin will damage it; this study shows how little rubbing is needed to cause damage and how this occurs by increasing the tiny gaps in the lipid bilayers of the extracellular matrix.
Image shows normal keratinocytes (control) and the deformational
structures with applied rubbing. Kikuchi, K., Shigeta, S., Numayama-Tsuruta, K., & Ishikawa, T. (2020). Vulnerability of the skin barrier to mechanical rubbing. International Journal of Pharmaceutics, 587, 119708. DOI: 10.1016/j.ijpharm.2020.119708. Certainly, it is the state of the epidermal cells of the corneum that is the underlying factor, however, how this can occur with so little pressure from contact is amazing. The deformation of keratinocytes due to pressure opens the gap (generally around 130 angstroms) between the cells, thus increasing TEWL while allowing better transdermal drug delivery. APJ
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SCIENTIFIC NEWS
WANT ROACCUTANE FOR ANTI-AGEING? For almost 20 years, I have heard of oral isotretinoin (13-cis-retinoic acid) being great for anti-ageing. Some people, of course, will try anything due to what they hear in the media. Hernandez-Perez et al., (2000) released a paper noting such antiageing benefits of 60 clients with the addition of 10-20 mg of isotretinoin three times weekly over two months, with another 60 being a control group showing fewer benefits. What the media did not report was all had also received light chemical peels and neuromuscular injections, which
6 papers with a total of 251 patients. They found that four studies were in favour of isotretinoin to improve photoaged skin, 1 study showed no benefit, and 1 study showed no benefit when compared to topical tretinoin treatment. The real problem, as with the Hernandez-Perez et al. (2020) paper, was that the studies were hampered by methodological challenges that made the outcome disputable and non-substantiated. In all studies performed using oral isotretinoin to improve photoageing, the main adverse effects were skin and mucosal dryness and desquamation. Not at all surprising as we know this is what the drug does, among a host of other adverse effects. The drug that was prescribed was at lower dosages than when it is usual for severe cystic acne, as it was used to reduce hyper-keratinisation, thus reducing comedogenesis, along with the drying of sebum via reduction of sebaceous gland activity.
makes a big difference. Honeybrook & Bernstein (2020) have just released a review study of
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The high-risk profile, including the teratogenic effects of 13-cis-retinoic acid, far outweighs the possible benefit of use for anti-ageing, mainly when there are so many other viable and effective methods in combatting the visible signs of ageing within the
skin. So then, if you get a client who asks about isotretinoin for anti-ageing, there is inconclusive evidence to support the use of this drug for anti-ageing. In contrast, there is solid conclusive proof of the myriad of side effects it produces. In Australia, isotretinoin is under the trade names of Oratane- Rocta, Dermatane, Isotretinoin, Isohexal, Isotrex, Roaccutane and Accure. I sincerely hope that you donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t just ask your clients if they are using Roaccutane. Please check as it may come under a different name. Honeybrook, A., & Bernstein, E. (2020). Oral isotretinoin and photoaging: A review. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 19, 1548â&#x20AC;&#x201C;1554. DOI: 10.1111/jocd.13467. Isotretinoin is medically known to be able to provide intrusive therapy on the skin with low dose, such as chemical peels and fractional ablative laser at lower dosage; however, its use is not recommended by non-medically trained practitioners. For a complex carbohydrate (C20H28O2) this packs a powerful punch with long lasting effects in the skin, due to the extended single does half-life of 24.7 hours. Of course, your clients do not take just one pill, so the overall half life is much longer, dependant on amount taken and for how long. APJ
Research and Scientific New Developments In every issue of the journal, Terry Everitt our scientific educator, conveys a few items of scientific interest. In italics, are his thoughts on the subject matter of the research study.
AUSTRALIAN REGULATORY GUIDELINES FOR SUNSCREENS AND BROADSPECTRUM PROTECTION I thought I should provide an update on sunscreen regulation, as there have been a few changes since 2019. In Australia, there are two main divisions of sunscreens – therapeutic and cosmetic, each being similar, but also hugely different, which creates a lot of confusion. Therapeutic sunscreens are listed on the Australian Register of Therapeutic Goods (ARTG) maintained by the Therapeutic Goods Administration (TGA) needing to comply with all Australian and New Zealand Sunscreen Standard AS/NZS 2604 Sunscreen products— Evaluation and classification requirements and ISO 24443:2012. Thus, having an Aust L number on each container. This new standard brought in multiple changes in 2019 which you may not be aware of, so here is the concise story, without all the details. All sunscreens need testing for UVB protection; not for other UV radiation.
To be noted as ‘Broard Spectrum’, the product needs to be tested against UVB and then UVA. In doing so, the product must comply with an additional standard ISO 24443:2012. Broad-spectrum performance is mandatory for all primary sunscreens as well as those secondary sunscreens classified as ‘therapeutic sunscreens’ and regulated by the TGA. Always go with broad-spectrum, not sunscreen (which is better than nothing, but does not provide as much protection). It is no longer allowed to include SPF 30+ on labels, only even numbers until 50. Then the product can have SPF50+ (which need testing to SPF 60 level and tighter control of water-resistant claims). Also, it is no longer allowed for a sunscreen to provide claims as waterproof. SPF protection is now classified ‘low’ (SPF 4-10), ‘medium’ or ‘moderate’ (SPF 15- 25), ‘high’ (SPF 30- 50) or ‘very high’ (SPF 50+).
sun protection according to the Industrial Chemicals (Notification and Assessment) Act 1989, regulated by Australian Inventory of Industrial Chemicals (AICIS) [previously the National Industrial Chemicals Notification & Assessment Scheme (NICNAS)] not TGA as therapeutic goods. Various labelling changes allowing claims are allowed, ingredients changes and shelf-life testing also apply which is a story in itself, with only allowable ingredients and excipients permitted as listed in the Therapeutic Goods (Permissible Ingredients) Determination. https://search.tga.gov.au/s/search. html?collection=tga-websites web&q uery=+regulatory+guidelines+for+su nscreens I have been pushing for a long time that no one should be using a sunscreen, only a broad-spectrum sun protection product. This is more than word choice, as sunscreens only protect against UVB. APJ
Skin products may contain sunscreens, but cannot be used for the primary purpose of therapeutic
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Supporting Australian Salons in these hard times. As part of its commitment to the industry APAN has launched two independent websites allowing salons and clinics to register their business and services. The websites will be supported by an on going multimedia campaign, as well as social media, directing the public to support these businesses to survive during the COVID-19 disruption. All setup and maintenance costs for these websites will be absorbed by APAN. There is no charge to you registering your business as this is a FREE SERVICE to help you expand your reach and gain new clients.
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