TIME TRAVEL MAY 2013
ON THE COVER
2 Coco Chanel : the pioneer of the emancipation of women
FASHION EVOLUTIONS
13 From corset to the pants…
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American made blue jeans
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Charleston Fashion has VS always existed Waltz but it has changed a lot 8 through the The barbie doll : ages… a representation The TIME TRAVEL of women’s reminds you of fashion evolution how the road has been from the corset time FASHION WEEKS to the free self 10 expression in Fashion weeks today’s fashion ! over the centuries
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Women’s hair style through the twentieth century
22 From victorian era to the 30’s fashion
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…and God created the swimsuit
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‘’IT’’ bag?
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A new turning point for lingerie
COCO CHANEL (1883-1971)
Gabrielle Chanel's life is reprensatative of women's emancipation in the 20th century, not only in mirroring those radical changes, but by precipitating them with her liberative creations. Her love life and career as a business woman made her the modern woman ahead of her time. Very young, she worked in a fashion and dressmaking as an assistant. But when she met Etienne Blazan, a rich former soldier passioned by horses, she left her job and settled down in his house. There, she singled out by her love of simple lines and non-fussy clothes, which hardly contrasted with the embellished « Belle Epoque » style in vogue. Creating hats for Balzan's friends, she used his flat in Paris as her first millinery shop. The unique style of her designs distinguished her from other designers.
« A girl should be two things: classy and fabulous.” Then, Balzan was succeeded by Arthur « Boy » Capel, a british aristocrat, as the only love of Chanel's life. Thanks to his financial backing, Coco Chanel was able to open a larger shop on the mythical Rue Cambon. Many of her clients were influential women and Chanel's name soon appeared in m ag az i n e s . World War I was the time for Chanel to call for more practical dresses. Many women needed new wardrobes, more useful for the situation. Of course, Chanel's simple designs were perfectly suited to this need. And through her hard work and determination, she gained her independence.
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« Fashion fades, only style remains the same »
In the Twenties, understanding the « Elegance is not the prerogative of those who expectations of the female consumer, have just escaped from Gabrielle launched her famous No. 5 adolescence , but those perfume. At the same time, she created her who have already taken Little B lack Dress, the « Ford signed possession of their future » Chanel » according to US Vogue. Using black for day-to-day wear was obviously a strong breaking point with fashion custom, which allowed only black for mourning. However, black, white, beige and navy became signature tones. Chanel also introduced fake jewels to couture. The simplicity of her designs was complimented by costume jewellery. She believed that the aim of j ewels was to decorate and not to show off wealth. And because of their size, the imitations which could not be mistaken for the real thing completed the simple lines of her clothing. In 1 9 23 , Chanel's affair with the Duke of Westminster, who introduced her to In 1 9 45 , a newcomer on the fashion scene, Christian Dior, Churchill, influenced her later collections introduced the New Look. It was a look which, with the tiny waists and meters of fabrics, once again limited women's movements. Vowing to once again free women from restricting garments, Chanel employed new staff and sourcing materials. Nevertheless in 1 9 5 3 , Chanel's comeback collection of couture was not received well. But fortunately, a few years later, having updated her classic tweed suits, she one more time managed to return to success with a huge celebrity following.
« A woman is closest to being naked when she is well-dressed »
Nowadays, Karl Lagarfeld makes the Chanel a world trend by creating new perfumes, jewels, bags or even clocks.
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Charleston –vs. - Waltz The Waltz is the oldest of ballroom dance; it started in the middle of the 18th century in the German « Lander » such as a folklore dance. At that time it was referred to as « the Waltzer » which indicates a rotating motion. With the Napoleonian conquests it spread from Germany to France and then to the rest of the world. It was met firstly with indignation because it was the first dance by couple in a more intimate position (- the man’s hand around the lady’s waist). It was in the 1830s when two Austrians composers introduced the standard of the Viennese Waltz, that the Waltz was spread so widely and accepted. In the middle of the 19th century, the Waltz was firmly implanted in the United States’ society. The first position in the waltz, begins with the man’s right hand slightly beneath the woman’s left shoulder blade in a 90 degree angle, his left hand is raised so the woman’s can fit lightly in it at eye level. In turn the woman’s left hand is resting on the man’s shoulder, for a better balance she should look over the man’s right shoulder. It should create an elegant pose. Before beginning to waltz, the couple should isolate the music by counting the tempo and start at the third « boom-tick-tick ». The Basic pattern reassembles a box, and can be broken into half’s – forward and backward. Each half box occupies three steps. Partners dance opposite, so that the man does the backward half box, and the man does the forward half box, and vice versa.
However, a new era begun in the 20th century; in 1923 Charleston was the rage; it became popular with the song « The Charleston » in the Broadway Musical « Runnin’ Wild ». Inspirited by jazz, with quick rhythms; it consists in both swaying arms and the fast motion of the feet. It became wildly popular in the 1920s with the Flappers. The dance could be done by oneself, with a partner, or in a group. The basic structure of Charleston begins with 6 basic and repeated steps: rock, step, kick, step, double kick forward and then backward, step; which are repeated indefinitely. This dance is performed with the man and woman close side-by-side, the man’s arm should be around the woman’s waist. On the first beat rock back with left foot (raising right foot off the ground), on the second step down with right foot, on the third kick forward with left foot, on the fourth step down with left foot, on the fifth kick forward with right foot, on the sixth retract right foot (but still keep in air), on the seventh kick back with right foot, on the eighth step down with right foot. The outside hand for both the lead and follow should be counter to the position of the outside foot.
Eventually, there is a big step from Waltz to Charleston. In the way the two partners are holding themselves, from the elegant posture of the Waltz to the destructuration of couple’s intimacy in Charleston, the way the limbs move, from the constrained hold of the couple’s dance to the free-tomove throw of arms and feet of Charleston. Indeed the way that the Charleston can be danced alone or in groups suggests that the 1930s made a big jump forward in liberty of movements which can also be transcribed with the emancipation of women, indeed if we can move how we want, we should be freer with our body and therefore be freer in our minds.
As fast as fashion evolves, so does Barbie The barbie doll : a representation of women’s fashion evolution
“Barbie has always represented that a woman has choices. Even in her early years, Barbie did not have to settle for only being Ken’s girlfriend or an inveterate shopper” Ruth Handler
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very second, three Barbie dolls are sold. They are the girl’s best friends, the teenage girl’s
model and they also reflect the women’s fashion evolution. How can Barbie mirror society? In March 1959 the first Barbie doll was introduced by Ruth Handler in a black and white swimsuit. At that time fashion was showing the body more than ever before. Her style mirrored the glamour of the 1950s stars as Marilyn Monroe, Rita Hayworth and Elisabeth Taylor. In the 1960s the role of the women in society was questioned. In The feminine mystique, Betty Friedan wonders if women were pleased with their lives as housewives. Barbie, as a response to the author became a nurse, a ballerina and a buisness executive. Influenced by the law wich forbids sex discrimination in education, athletics and oher school activities, Barbie does sport in the 1970s. She also became a disco superstar, maybe after seeing « Saturday Night Fever » by John Badham.
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Like everything in the 1980s, Barbie’s style was totally excessive. Barbie, in 1986 has her band named « Barbie and the rockers ». Indeed, a new wave of music appeared with MTV which changed the music industry. As Jennifer Beals in « Flashdance », Barbie wears leggings.
1992 was « the year of woman » in politics: twenty four women were elected into the House of Representatives in the United States. Therefore, the same year, Barbie decided to make her first presidential campaign.
In 2004, following break up of celebrity couples, Barbie and Ken broke up.
Nowadays, there are a lot of trends in fashion. Barbie can change her look whenever she wants. She has plenty of different accessories, jewelry and clothing. Barbie can be styled in a variety of ways! Barbie has her own car, home, hospital, pet shop..and even a McDonald’s. Barbie acts in movies, has her facebook fan page and her twitter account.
Barbie is at the cutting edge of fashion, she grows up with tendencies. Barbie reflects society, she embodies the period she lives in. Barbie is timeless : she matures with us. 9
Émilie Oddon
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FROM CORSETS TO PANTS Fashion is very important for women as the evolution of their clothes was accompanied by the changes of the society. Before they were forced to wear corsets and pants were forbidden. Fashion was restricted by men and the society. However, fashion plays a dominating role into women’s emancipation through the different centuries. While their dresses were getting shorter, women started to be more independent, to emancipate themselves. Fashion showed a way of living and thinking and adapted to the norms of the society. 1890 THE CORSET At the dawn of the 20th century Europeans and American women from the upper classes were still wearing corsets that outlined them with artificial lines. They had to suffer for being pretty. In fact, their bust was pound by metal corset and bitterly fitted at the waist by laces. Paddings in the hip and under the arms exaggerated the fitness of waist and the skirt dragging out on the floor completed the effect. However, every woman didn’t accept the tyranny of the corset like the English suffragettes which leap to a campaign against their oppressive clothes. 1920 THE ROARING TWENTIES Liberated from the corset in 1906 by the top designer Paul Poiret, women could gain breath. In addition they were freer in their movement and walk. At the end of the first world war, women became emancipated : often widowed they were forced to work. Women were thirsty for freedom and wanted above all to be comfortable in their clothes. Modernity was the word of order, women wore from then on short hair like boys. For the first time ever, women revealed their legs with dresses to the knee.
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1930 THE PANTS During the war, women worked replacing men who were at the front. So, the women didn’t want to wear corset anymore. They were now independent and free of their movements. The trend of the thirties was fluid clothes, comfortable and practical dresses. The curves were not fashionable at all. Women wore straight dresses which hid their femininity. Step by step, the woman could reveal a few parts of her body : arms, then the neck.
1940 THE WORLD WAR II More and more women wore pants. Fashion was transformed by deprivations : skirts were shorter than ever, and the « tailleur » was adopted because it was practical and comfortable. The war paralysed the textile industry, materials were rare and expensive.
1950 AFTER THE WORLD WAR II At the end of the Second World War, women searched for stylish and elegant clothes but at the same time modernity. Numerous technical progresses were realized to serve fashion like the new materials : polyester, polyamide and the acrylic. The particularity of the fifties were the trapezes dresses.
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1960 THE SIXTIES The Sixties, saw the development of consumption. Fashion was now more accessible to all kinds of people. The clothing forms were geometrical. A wind of liberty was blowing on the dresscode. This period symbolizes the best the sociocultural change of the decade with the clothes. Indeed, skirts and dresses were shorter and shorter. The “mini-skirt” and “blue jeans” became popular. This decade was also marked by the triumph of the bright and acidulous colors, the flower and dot designs. Clothes were worn loose and flowing. 1970 WOMEN’S LIBERATION In 1970, a huge variety of clothing became popular, including bell bottoms, increasingly short miniskirts and hot pants, and blue jeans. The « pants elephant » fitted at the thighs and wide after is one of the symbols of the seventies fashion. During the seventies, it was no longer shocking for women to wear pants on a daily basis, and many of the styles of the era were somewhat androgynous. Fashion became unisex. The women’s liberation and May 68 have heavily influenced the seventies fashion. While keeping the classic codes of fashion, the seventies explode the codes. The feminine emancipation led women to borrow clothes from boys.
2000 : “AS YOU WANT” The transition of the years 2000 marked the end of a kind of uniformity. There is no more diktat like the precedent decades and this makes the originality of the twenty first century. Nowadays, while walking in the street, we can notice that many styles mix. Women can now wear what they want. As we have noticed, there was a real evolution in fashion at the turn of the last century. There is no doubt that fashion helped women to emancipate themselves. 15
Women’s hair styles through the twentieth century The statue of women has changed over the centuries, first objects of desire and love; women have become more independent, strong and free. This evolution happens through their rights, but also through their clothes and their hairstyles. But we’ll focus on the hairstyles and their evolution since the beginning of the 20th century.
“Let’s begin with the 1900’s Hairstyle” The Victorian era sets a strict and proper hairstyle. So the long and short styles are very popular at that time.
“Then, the1940’s Hairstyle” brought back the elegant waves. They were very glamorous. But because of the war, women had to work like men and long hair was not practical. So they cut their hair and adapted their look with their new clothes.
“The 1970’s Hairstyle” was really different from the others. Personal expression was the key to a great hair style in this decade. These looks went against society and were funky and popular. We also saw the apparition of the afro style.
“The 1980’s Hairstyle”. We can see the evolution, Women can do what they want with their hair. The “80’s” were all about big hair. Rockers’ were big and everyone had huge long hair. There were also short hair as well, but the “mullet hair” was really famous at that time.
“The1990 to 2000’s Hairstyle” was really free. Women did what they wanted: wave of colors, short hair , long hair… They were also sexier. The new millennium brought back many blast from the past including many short and long hairstyles. The hairstyle became the identity of women and colorful hair is fashionable.
Hair became a true complement to the outfit and identity of women. A way for her to express herself. By Laura Sabatier.
CLOTHING EVOLUTION
For this new issue we focus on the
clothing evolution from the Victorian dress to the Thirties look.
Victorian Woman ✽ Sloping on the ✽ Very pale complexion
with rosy cheeks, red lips and perhaps a bit of eye-
forehead, wide extravagant hat with flowers, feither...
liner.
✽ Very long sleeves
named « engageantes » to hide arms. They were easy to remove.
✽ Bright colors like white,
blue, violet, green...
✽ Very, very, very
long dress.
✽ Slim and high waist.
The V waist.
✽ The terrible crinoline
hidden behind the layers of tissue.
✽ Variety of materials
like lace, slik, tull...
At that time, woman had to be obedient and submissive to her husband. She belonged to her husband so she wasn't allowed to show her skin. She just learnt to run the house and to educate © Océane FRADIN children.
Thirties look ✽ Women adopt the boyish haircut. The trend is the plucked eyebrows or
✽ Women wear sometimes wide-brimmed hat or cloche-hat to hide the eyebrows.
redesigned. ✽ With the boyish look the ✽ The V waist is
chest disappears.
abandoned for wide dress. ✽ The materials are rayon, cotton, lace, jersey, sparkle or fringe. ✽ Now women show their feminity with naked arms.
✽ The dresses or skirts are shorter. Because now, women want comfort or they pratise sport.
✽ They wear flat heels to dance easily.
Women emancipated themselves. That's why they took the boyish look. Now they practised sport, they danced. Moreover, the Thirties represent the emergence of the trousers for women. © Océane FRADIN
AND GOD CREATED THE SWIMSUIT The swimsuit, symbol of stylish summer fun. Artsy, classy, conservative or sexy, the swimsuit is an icon of summer style and fashion. But wearing something for the beach wasn’t so easy. At the beginning women had to wear beach dresses, and when the weather was hot it wasn’t comfortable. Step by step, women became freer, and swimsuit became shorter. Women wanted to show their body, and swimsuit became sexy clothing. And then the bikini appeared. Copacabana, Santa Barbara, St Tropez, famous beaches become a place to exhibit bodies, it became an asset of seduction.
But for now let’s see the evolution of the swimsuit over the last twentieth century. In the nineteenth century, only rich women went on vacation, and they used to wear skirt as swimsuit, because exhibiting their bodies was impossible. It lasted until the 1930’s.
And then, little by little, year by year, swimsuit became shorter, at the same time as the society evolved. And after the second world war, swimsuits allowed women to feel confident and attractive, their bodies appeared in movies and magazines.
Marilyn Monroe seems to be the greatest example to show the emancipation of women reprensented in a swimsuit.
The sixties were the apogée of the swimsuit, women were freer, the swimsuit became affordable for everyone.
Finally, since the seventeen’s fashion creators have innovated with new swimsuits inspired from the previous years.
Nowadays, the swimsuit is used by all of the women, there are many types of swimsuits, one piece or two, women choose the one that goes best with their morphology.
Victoria secret latest show.
Some adresses to find the best fashion swimsuits of the moment !
ASOS : http://www.asos.fr/Femme-Maillots-de-bain/zvgy0/?cid=2238#parentID=-1&pge=0&pgeSize=20&sort=-1 BIKINI BAR : http://www.bikinibar.fr/index.php?p=collection KIWI ST TROPEZ : http://www.kiwi.fr/ PRINCESSE TAM TAM : http://www.princessetamtam.com/fr/r3-maillot-de-bain/sgball-tous-les-bas ERES : http://www.eres.fr/fr#/retourHome,fr
By Léa Bernabeo
The ‘it’ Bag What would our days be like without the help of bags? Nowadays, a bag is the friendliest companion we could have. Throughout time, the bag has always had a place in everyday life; but It was used as an accessory to complete women’s outfits. During the 18th century, women started to take care of their appearance and started to have their own style. With this, they learned to accessorize their clothes with bigger purses called reticules. Reticules could carry the personal items of a lady of fashion during that period. These items included a laced fan, a laced and perfumed hankie, compact powder, rouge, perfume bottle, and smelling salt. In the 1900's, we know that men were to be seen with cases with hand-held handles. In that same year, emancipated women adopted the boy-ish look with the same handbags and turned them into a practical accessory. However, it was not meant to replace the purses which were more a fashion object. The 1940's saw a change in bag materials due to the war austerity program. Wood, cloth and other non-leather materials were used. In the 1950's, handbags turned into an 'avant garde' look with the rise of designer houses like Louis Vuitton, Hermes, and Chanel. This is when the bag really started to be a “must-have” for every women. They needed to travel, move, plan, and organize their journeys since they were independent and productive women at that time. The bag became more than an accessory. These fashion icons pushed the ‘it’ bags into an image that matches the trend of clothes fashion and even of technology. Nowadays, the bags are arranged in sizes from small to large, according to the dictated fashion trend. The classic style still lives along with the ultra-modern design and everyone is having fun with his own choice of bag.
Chloë Cétran
A new turning point for Lingerie Do you think that lingerie only appeared during the 20 th century ? You are wrong. At the beginning there were only ideas about lingerie, not really the same as today. First of all it appeared during antiquity in old Greece and old Roma as the traditional chiton :
Then, from Antiquity to the Renaissance, lingerie didn't evolve so much. In the late sixteenth century, the corset became the centrepiece of intimate apparel, which was going to reign for more than three centuries.
The Renaissance deals a lot with the evolution of lingerie, it's when the first corset bones appeared and changed women's way of life. It started in Spain, expanded through Europe and represented a new feminine ideal. But we had to wait till the 17th and 18th century for most of the population to start to wear corset.
During the following years, a new kind of corset appeared : the lace up corset , worn by Marie-Antoinette. Women wore tight corsets that shaped their bodies into an ideal hourglass figure. Made with whalebone, corsets were often restrictive and women required assistance to dress and undress. Even though corset led to health problems and doctors were against corset because it brought malformation to women's body, many women continued to adhere to the maxim that suffering for beauty was part of a woman’s life.
In the 1800's,the first padded bra appeared which provided more support to the breast, it was named « brassiere » which in French refers to « support ».
The 19th century introduced stockings,which were the forerunners of modernday thigh-highs. Stockings were held up by suspenders and garters attached to the corsets.
The nineteenth century also marked the beginning of a revolution in lingerie design : new kind of corset appeared ornamented with ribbons, they also became smaller and less rigid like the elastic model so women could put them on without assistance, it also permitted free movement and easier breathing, it had to be light enough to be worn in hot and stifling work conditions. Then, during the Second Empire , the crinoline appeared . Until 1904, crinoline, corset, and lingerie, remained about the same.
In 1904, lingerie radically changed , thanks to Mary Phelps Jacob who, for the first time paid attention to women's well-being by inventing the bra.
The 1920s brought about a change in attitudes about sexuality and beauty, Flapper Girls popularized boyish physiques : the light-weight chemise, bloomers, and bodice were introduced . For the first time in the history of lingerie, panties and bras were available in an assortment of colors. The Roaring Twenties also saw the end of corsets.
Nowadays, lingerie still evolves and continues to surprise everybody by adding eccentric accessories as we can see in Victoria's Secret fashion shows, for example :
By Sara Hamchaoui