AFRIKA 2 | The Wildest Travel Stories | Kenya - Zimbabwe - Namibia - Malawi by Atelier Africa

KENYA

ZIMBABWE

NAMIBIA

MALAWI

Spot the big migration in the

On safari along the Zambezi river

The ultimate self-drive safari

On an adventure around the

maasai mara

in the footsteps of Livingstone

through the emptyest country

crystal clear waters of Lake

in Africa

Malawi

ATELIER AFRICA SAFARIS

Nothing is out of reach. Adventure is everywhere.

ATELIER AFRICA SAFARIS

D E A R T R AV E L E R , Karibu! Welcome to AFRICA, the wildest travel

all kinds of promotions. On the contrary, it only

stories.

wants to inform you in a pleasant way about the richness of beautiful Africa.

Atelier Africa Safaris, founded in 2012, has

COLOFON

grown over the years to become the main

This magazine is here to make you dream, to

reference for pure trips to Central, Southern

stimulate your senses with ‘experience’ as the

and East Africa. By combining our passion for

keyword, because pleasure is not prohibited! Of

Africa and years of experience in the tourism

course, all trips that you find in this magazine

industry in different corners of the continent

can be booked easily with Atelier Africa Safaris.

with a personal, professional and creative PUBLISHER Atelier Africa Safaris info@atelier-africa.com www.atelier-africa.com

approach, we created a tailor-made solution

In this second issue we take you to the

that meets the needs of today’s travelers who

birthplace of African Safari, the Maasai Mara in

are always looking for added value.

Kenya, where Ernest Hemingway wrote his first adventurous books and thus made the word

EDITORIAL OFFICE

This is the second edition of AFRICA, the

“safari” known to the general public.

Timothy Denys

Wildest Travel Stories. This magazine is a

In Zimbabwe we ourselves drive around the

Michele Denys

concept that has been worked out together

south of the country and fly with a small

Mare Hotterbeeckx

with the various travel journalists and

Cessna over the North past the largest

photographers who have been able to discover

man-made lake in the world to the Mana Pools,

beautiful pieces of Africa in recent years

a home for the last large wild dog population.

through Atelier Africa.

Namibia is the specialty of the house at Atelier

Gerrit Op de Beeck Arne Deprez

FINAL EDITING

Africa Safaris and in this story our journalist

Timothy Denys Michele Denys

“AFRICA, the wildest travel stories” will become

goes on an ultimate self-drive of over 3000

an annual source of inspiration for all journeys

kilometres through the most diverse country

DESIGN

to Central, South and East Africa, our natural

in Africa, where more animals live than people!

Tigerous

habitat that we have been traveling intensively

The last travel story in this edition plays out

Glynn Denys

for over 15 years and where we still discover

in Malawi, where Mare follows an active route

new gems. In every edition of AFRICA you will

through hills from tea plantations to the crystal

find at least four long detailed travel reports.

clear waters of Lake Malawi.

info@tigerous.be

This magazine is not here to attack you with

We wish you a lot of reading pleasure, Michèle & Timo Denys Managers Atelier Africa Safaris 1

ATELIER AFRICA SAFARIS

KENYA Southwestern Kenya, on the border with Tanzania and with the Kilimanjaro as snow-covered supreme god, is a wonderful backdrop for those who love safaris with a multitude of animals - especially during the migration period, the largest animal relocation in the

ZIMBABWE

world - and want to combine this seamlessly with a final beach vacation. Jambo!

Zimbabwe is back on the African safari scene. After

Âť P 6

very difficult years under controversial President Robert Mugabe, the country is now back on the map, fully supported by foreign investors who are building new lodges. A pearl reveals itself.

Âť P20

ATELIER AFRICA SAFARIS

NAMIBIA Like a grasshopper traveling through one of the least populated countries in the world; a track of 3200 kilometres per off-road vehicle through a blistering emptiness, immeasurably wide landscapes and a stunning natural beauty. On the way to the horizon we discover the soul of the country.

MALAWI » P 38 A trip around the world in just one holiday? It’s possible in Malawi, where in just a few hours of driving you’re met with surreal blue lakes, vast tea plantations and the big five. Whomever is looking for a versatile holiday destination, they can already book their ticket.

» P5 2

ATELIER AFRICA SAFARIS

Atelier Africa specialises in African tours. And especially Africa trips to Namibia, Zimbabwe, Botswana, Congo, Kenya, Madagascar, Mozambique, Tanzania, Rwanda, Zambia, Zanzibar and South Africa. Why Africa? Because no continent offers a greater variety of natural beauty and travel experiences. You never get bored in Africa.

LOVE FOR AFRICA

TAILOR-MADE

Michèle and Timo De Nijs got to know each other in

Africa has so much to offer that you will soon be lost.

Namibia and have been traveling together in the African

Why get lost when you can be assisted by professionals

continent since 2010. Atelier Africa was initially the ideal

who know the ins & outs of the continent as well as their

way to share their travel stories and safari experiences with

pockets? Michèle and Timo are both contact persons

others.

and point of contact as well as tour guides. They work together with the most magnificent lodges, the best guides

Over the years, Atelier Africa has grown into a professional

and the most reliable drivers. Do you want to see all your

tour operator with a love for and especially an expertise in

preferences united in a single safari?

Africa. Atelier Africa is now run from Namibia and Belgium.

LUXURY SAFARIS

PERSONALISED APPROACH

Safari means traveling in Swahili and owes its fame to none

Did you see a photo of a fantastic lodge in Zimbabwe

other than Ernest Hemingway. It was not until the American

somewhere? Or do you want to visit the Virunga National

writer returned after a three-month Africa trip with the

Park from that Netflix documentary? Let us know and

bestsellers The Green Hills of Africa and The Snows of the

we will create the perfect trip for you. No question is too

Kilimanjaro that the concept of ‘safari’ had been born.

difficult, no wish too crazy. In addition, we have personally tested every trip, lodge or travel experience. Only in

Atelier Africa offers no less than six different types. From

this way are you sure of optimum quality and reliability.

the fly-in safari over the bush & beach and wellness safari

Our offer is therefore 100% safe and guaranteed to be

to the golf safari, family safari and wedding trip safari.

unforgettable.

Atelier Africa specialises in creating classic safaris in which contemporary comfort is linked to the most authentic

experience possible. Don’t know where to start or do you wonder whether your Refresh yourself surrounded by African wildlife and

dream trip can be realised at all? Contact us via our website.

untouched nature while enjoying maximum luxury and

We are happy to talk to you and would love to take you to

comfort..

the wonderful world of Africa. Surf to www.atelier-africa. com or call us on +32 474 31 14 86.

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WHAT WILL BECOME YOUR NEXT DESTINATION?

Atelier Africa Safaris is happy to guide you in planning the ultimate journey through these countries

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KENYA

KENYA I N TO A F R I C A

Southwestern Kenya, on the border with Tanzania and with the Kilimanjaro as snow-covered supreme god, is a wonderful backdrop for those who love safaris with a multitude of animals - especially during the migration period, the largest animal relocation in the world - and want to combine this seamlessly with a final beach vacation. Jambo!

KENYA

BUSH & B EACH IN KENYA Hello, Sir! Karibu, welcome! There are regular days, and

in the front who goes into battle with both hands on the

there are Nairobi days. Early this morning we landed in

wheel.

a typical African twilight at Jomo Kenyatta International Airport, where the Boeing Dreamliner of Kenya Airways

The domestic airport of the Kenyan capital Nairobi is an

fully condensed due to the temperature difference. Now

organised chaos. Aircraft are parked so close to each other

we are thundering over a highway that is unworthy of that

that you think itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a joke. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s not. Somehow we checked

name in the direction of Nairobi Wilson, the city airport,

in on time and then take a seat in a neat Cessna Grand

from where a small aircraft will take us to Kichwa Tembo

Caravan. The aircraft leaves perfectly on time and an hour

airstrip. The traffic is bad, as it is everywhere in Central

later, after a large exploratory turn skimming over giraffes,

Africa. Motorcycles, decrepit buses, overloaded trucks,

drops us off with a kiss landing in the Maasai Mara National

jeeps, dogs, and thousands of people along the road... For

Reserve. We see one off-road vehicle, one driver and twenty

every centimetre they are fighting and honking. But with

zebras. Good morning everybody!

the motto that good cars like ours are only driven by good drivers, we ignore the chaos and count on the sweet man

KENYA

BLENDING INTO THE LANDSCAPE

The latter in particular is famous for migration. Most rain falls in the northern part of the park and that also means that the density of game varies considerably from time to

The Maasai Mara is a nature reserve in southwestern Kenya.

time.”

It is 1700 square kilometres in size and it borders the Serengeti plain. The big attraction for safari lovers is the massive seasonal migration of the wildebeest and zebras.

MAASAI AS A POLICE

“Within the park there is an extensive network of unpaved roads that can be driven by all types of cars in the dry season,” explains driver and guide Richard, en route to our

Short-sighted luxury aficionados will snub at Kilima Camp.

home for the next three days: the charming Kilima Camp.

Who would sleep in a tent? Except when the tent is sixty

“But in the rainy season the roads are difficult even for an

square metres in size and is equipped with a rain shower.

SUV. Fortunately, tourism is limited in this period.” Although

Genius in its simplicity. Call it ‘staying in Out of Africa style’.

it is already late in the morning, we notice the cold. Not

Moreover: what a view! The panorama from the terrace of

suprisingly, as Mare is at an altitude of 1500 to 2100 metres.

our luxury tent is breathtaking. We overlook the savannah

After a first introduction to the lodge and a lunch under

for miles, the Mara river shines in the sun. Nothing is as

the patio, we set off. The landscape consists mainly of

delicious as breakfast in the morning chill of the jungle,

grassy plains with occasional acacias and river forest. “Two

with hot coffee in high jugs and a freshly lit campfire as a

important rivers flow through the park,” Richard explains.

comrade. Remarkable is the presence of the Maasai (also

“The Talek and the Mara.

written as Masaï or Massai) that appear everywhere as trained bodyguards. Sweet, but ubiquitous. Maasai is the name given to a largely nomadic people in East Africa, mainly living in Kenya and Tanzania. The total population of the Maasai is estimated at 900,000, half of that in Kenya. Exact data is not available since there are no accurate censuses taking place, but above all: they do not have national borders. Livestock is essential for the Maasai. They eat the meat, drink the blood and the milk, and use the skins for houses. And from the bones they produce tools and combs. The Maasai succeeded, despite the growing modern civilization, to preserve their age-old traditions. For various reasons, however, this traditional way of life is under strong pressure nowadays. For example, the government of Kenya wants to take parts of their pasture for cattle to join national parks like Serengeti and Masai Mara. “A few dozen Maasai are indirectly involved in this village,” the lodge manager explains. “It secures our past and gives us a fair future. Moreover, we appreciate that they are actively involved in tourism.”

KENYA

ALL CRITTERS We spend the next three days on true safari work, the main

It is a region of savannas and forest landscapes, spread over

reason for the trip. Goal: to see a part of the migration. That

northern Tanzania and southern Kenya. The total surface

means: touring, stopping a lot, observing. Safari therefore

area is 30,000 square kilometres, of which 80 percent

means ‘journey’ in Swahili. We get ourselves into slow mode

are located in Tanzania. Around 1.6 million herbivores and

and try to live to the rhythm of the jungle. Do not worry

thousands of predators live in the area. But the region is

about what you would like to see, but be happy with what

best known for migration. Almost two million wildebeest,

you get served. Nesting in the silence. As Karen Blixen - the

gazelles and zebras migrate from the Serengeti Park

Danish author of ‘Out of Africa’ who spent years in Kenya

to Maasai Mara in Kenya every year. And back. It is and

and ran a plantation - once wrote: “…For me, visiting a park

remains one of the most spectacular animal migrations on

is like being in an Earthly Paradise... The air of the African

the planet. To do so, they have to cross the Mara River, and

highlands rose to my head like wine, I was slightly drunk

that’s guaranteed to be a spectacle. For the crocodiles, it’s

all the time, and the joy of that period was indescribable...”

an unmissable annual party.

We drive along the border of the Serengeti, probably the most famous park in Tanzania. The name is derived from Siringet, a Maasai word that literally means ‘endless plains’.

KENYA

FLIRTING WITH CROCS The Great Trek of the grazers of the Serengeti National Park

road to the lodge. He is satisfied, the goal has been

is, to put it prosaically, walking in rounds for a year. From

achieved. In the afternoon we settle on the terrace with

late spring, the animals head north from the south of the

some reading material. While the sun dives towards the

Serengeti in search of fresh grazing lands and water. A few

horizon and the gas lamps are lit in the camp, we take a

months later, they all move back south, again to the grassy

shower. Afterwards, we join the other guests in the boma for

plains of the southern Serengeti, where it is basically green

a big fire, all travelers who still intensively enjoy the unique

again by November, depending on rainfall.

decor. A nice bottle of cabernet sauvignon appears in the wine glasses. In the distance rumbles a first thunderstorm.

We miss out on the first day, and on the second. Are

we just too early in the season? Or are we in the wrong places? Richard starts to worry, he wants to be able to show us a crossing, his pride as a guide and tracer is at stake. But in the morning of our last day we hit the jackpot. As if it was an agreed signal, we are witnessing a herd of zebras suddenly wading through the river, among hungry crocodiles. That often produces dramatic images and we see it happen right in front of us. About five crocodiles,

YOU KNOW YOU ARE

each in turn, strike, but miss. “Zebras stomp dangerously

TRULY ALIVE WHEN

with their hind legs, because that’s what the crocodiles try to grab,” Richard explains. “And that often helps.” The

YOU’RE LIVING

herd reaches the other side without shedded blood. Phew!

AMONG LIONS.

Though, the crocodiles are likely not very happy. What an experience, a wonder of the world at our feet.

- KAREN BLIXEN -

Richard steers our Toyota back onto the rugged, unpaved

KENYA

TO THE ELEPHANTS We start the new day with a small ritual in front of the shaving mirror. When the legendary explorer Henry Morton Stanley wandered through the dark jungle of eastern Congo - beset by diseases, wild beasts and hostile tribes - the man had the discipline to shave every morning. If necessary, with cold water and a dull knife. He survived the expedition, while eighty percent of his men died. Safe and sound - thank God - we departed early in the morning from Kilima, flew on to Amboseli airstrip, and are now driving on a freshly sand road - short rain showers are pure poetry in Africa - to Tawi Lodge. The Toyota lives up to its 4x4 reputation. This lodge is of a completely different order: no tents, but thirteen cottages, a large swimming pool in the middle overlooking the Kilimanjaro and an encapsulated bar under the largest tree. We are welcomed by lodge manager Peter. “Be careful with the monkeys,” he says. “Before you know it they are inside.” In the evening we toast around the campfire with the other guests. For some, the journey is over, we are halfway there. Peter discreetly entertains the international company at the long table with a great deal of humor and a strong hint of irony.

KENYA

THE PURE SAVANNAH Amboseli National Park is a conservation area with an area

classified in 1974 as a national park managed by the Kenya

of 392 square kilometres, located in the Kenyan district of

Wildlife Service. At the end of 2005, the Kenyan president

Kajiado. The Kilimanjaro lies forty kilometres south of the

stated that from now on the park would be managed by

park, just across the border with Tanzania. The mountain

the Maasai in collaboration with the district administration.

watches, oversees and follows you wherever you go.

Since then peace has reigned.

Amboseli is the most popular national park in Kenya after Maasai Mara, which is why it also has a small airport, which makes a smooth combination of both possible. The Maasai have been living in the park area for thousands of years. They called it the Empusel region, which means “salty, dusty area.” In 1883, the British geologist and explorer Joseph Thompson was the first European to visit the area. In his reports he described the great biodiversity and the

SHORT RAIN SHOWERS

great contrast of the dry area and the fertile swamps. In

A R E P U R E P O E T RY

1906 the area was designated by the Germans as a reserve

IN AFRICA

for the Maasai. In 1948 it came under the control of the British colonial government and became a… hunting reserve, called Maasai Amboseli Game Reserve. The area was

KENYA

LIVING IN THE SHADE “The park is part of an ecosystem of savannas and marshes,

the mighty Kilimanjaro is both hard and wonderful. The

which covers an area of about 8,000 square kilometres

marshes in the park are visited by a large number of animal

and extends beyond the border with Tanzania,” the young

species. But the park is famous as the best place to see

guide/driver Ron explains to us the following morning.

wild savanna elephants, and they clearly claim their place.

“There are two of the five main marshes of this eco-region

“You always have to watch out with elephants,” smiles Ron.

in the park, which are largely irrigated by water from the

“The population is actually bursting at the seams and that

Kilimanjaro. As a result, the park has a relatively large

creates tensions.”

biodiversity in an area where there is little rainfall. There is also a dried-up lake from the Pleistocene in the park.” It soon becomes clear to us that living in the shadow of

KENYA

INDIAN OCEAN AS A SHOWER After days of lots of dust and elephants in various scents

eat fresh mangoes and paper-thin pizzas baked in the

and sizes, the ocean beckons. A final flight takes us to Diani

wood-burning oven. It feels like a Moroccan riad, but a bit

Ukunda and from there it is another half hour by car to

more southerly. Our snow-white room is very sexy and

the ultimate place to wash off the dust of the savannah.

spacious. Mosquito nets, a spacious terrace and ceiling fans

Belgian citizen Frederik Vanderhoeven opened his dream

give the whole a colonial atmosphere, the vintage wooden

house ten years ago on the Indian Ocean, in Kwale on the

furniture does the rest.

southernmost tip of Kenya, a stone’s throw from the border post with Tanzania.

On the advice of other guests, we order a massage in the beach cabin and enjoy the luxury. We contemplate: this is

Msambweni Beach House, a white building in Lamu style, in

rural Africa, authentic, sometimes a bit slow and sloppy,

other words: a marriage between Swahili-look and Arabic

with a nod to Belgian cuisine and so many square metres

architecture. A beach house on a twelve-metre-high chalk

that other hotels would turn the same into ten rooms.

cliff, but also a home away from home, with only three oversized rooms, three detached villas (all with private

It is not surprising that this accommodation is popular, just

swimming pools) and one Ocean Suite, Robinson Crusoë

like the entire region where it is located. Because what did

genre. It soon became a popular place for no-nonsense

the former top man of the sportswear brand Puma buy as a

value seekers to end a safari. The almost thirty employees

country retreat? A mountain in Kenya with 500 hectares of

(dressed in white djellaba’s and sandals) make the guests

land. “The wild paradise,” he called it. Who contradicts him?

happy, we immediately learn. For example, we eat whenever and wherever we want. Time does not apply here. We get cosy around the central XL infinity swimming pool, drink bitter Kenyan coffee and

KENYA

KENYA LAMU ARCHIPELAGO

NAIROBI M O U N T K E N YA

LAKE NAKURU T S AV O PA R K MAASAI MARA

A M B O S E L I PA R K

MOMBASA

DIANI BEACH

PRACTICAL:

BEST TRAVEL TIME:

Calling Kenya a great travel destination is kicking in an open

In theory, you could travel Kenya throughout the year. But

door. The total number of visitors has grown again in recent

southern Kenya has a rainy season from mid-March until the

years, after a difficult period. The country profiles itself in

end of May, and these months are less favorable to go on

the slightly more budget-friendly safaris segment. Kenya

safari. The dry season is from July to October, and therefore

is more northern than, for example, safari competitors

ideal for traveling through the south, as well as the moment

Botswana, Zimbabwe or South Africa, and has a slightly

to spot the great trek in the Mara.

rougher feel, call it the atmosphere of the real black Africa for the sake of convenience. You can fly to Kenya quickly from Brussels with Ethiopian Airlines.

BOOKING A TRIP: Atelier Africa has been selling tailor-made safaris to Kenya

C L I M AT E :

for years. Each trip is made to your wishes.

In theory, you could travel Kenya throughout the year, but

For more information visit our website:

the period from July to October is a must, especially for

www.atelier-africa.com or send an email to info@

those who want to see the migration. March to May is rainy

atelier-africa.be

season, just like December.

We are already looking forward to your email.

KENYA

CONTINUE ON TO THE FAR CORNERS OF TANZANIA Tanzania & Kenya manage to maintain their reputation as

In 1982, the Selous Game Reserve was declared a UNESCO

top African locations for a safari adventure. However, if you

World Heritage Site and recognized for its spectacular

are looking for spectacular sightings of wildlife, beautiful

diversity in both flora and fauna. It remains a refuge for

landscapes and an intimate connection with nature, but

nature lovers. Only a handful of travelers are in the park

without a lot of extra tourists, look no further than South

at any time, which means that your visit will be peaceful,

and West Tanzania. It is also the ideal extension for those

so you can really make contact with your environment.

who are slightly less crazy about the beach area, and would

The area is home to Africaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s largest population of the

like some more adventure. In addition to the incredible

endangered wild dog.

diversity of wild species and ecosystems, this part of Africa is also under the tourist radar, so you can enjoy a carefree

The region also houses buffalo, elephants, leopards, lions

journey away from vehicles and crowds.

and the rare sable antelope. There is a huge variety of bird species, with more than 400 species in the area, and a

Important destinations are the Selous Game Reserve, the

number of different ecosystems, including swamps, forests,

Ruaha National Park and the Rubondo Island National

open plains and the Rufiji River that runs through the

Park. Each of these locations guarantees you an adventure

reserve.

that you will never forget.

STAY AT JABALI RIDGE OF ASILIA TO EXPLORE THE RUAHA NATIONAL PARK

ADVERTORIAL

ASILIA RUNS THE ONLY CAMP OF RUBONDO ISLAND

Northwest of Selous lies the Ruaha National Park, which is

There are many fantastic destinations in Africa, but

part of the Rungwa-Kizigo-Muhesi ecosystem. This park

few can offer a perfect mix of varied ďŹ&#x201A;ora and fauna,

is distinguished by its wide range of nature and vegetation

spectacular scenery and freedom from crowds. The

zones, due to its location at the meeting of North, South

secrets of these remote corners of Tanzania are unknown

and East Africa. The park takes its name from the Great

to so many, and yet they are the most beautiful adventure

Ruaha River, which flows along the southeastern border

you could hope for.

and offers fantastic opportunities for viewing wildlife. A striking feature of the park is the large population of lions, protected by the Ruaha Carnivore Project, which started in 2009. The park not only serves as a spectacular tourist destination, but also as one of the largest protected areas in Africa. If you are looking for more adventure, you should visit the Rubondo Island National Park. The park consists of 10 islands in the southwestern corner of Lake Victoria, the largest being Rubondo. Here you will find the ultimate

ROHO YA SELOUS IS LOCATED IN THE HEART OF THE SELOUS RESERVE

seclusion, because the island is uninhabited by people, apart from guards, researchers and the staff of Rubondoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s only camp. The vegetation consists largely of evergreen and semi-evergreen forests, with the occasional grassland or acacia forest. The area houses a number of chimpanzees that were introduced in the 1960s as part of a rehabilitation program. Other wildlife animals are elephants, giraffes, crocodiles, otters and antelope.

ZIMBABWE

ZIMBABWE COMEBACK

Zimbabwe is back on the African safari scene. After very difficult years under controversial President Robert Mugabe, the country is now back on the map, fully supported by foreign investors who are building new lodges. A pearl reveals itself.

ZIMBABWE

C ALL M E ZI M Zimbabwe is the newest hype in the African safari

tents, this is anything but a campsite. Because with

landscape. After very difficult years under controversial

wooden Moroccan and Indian doors incorporated into the

President Robert Mugabe, the country is now back on the

canvas and a private swimming pool in front of the door,

map, fully supported by foreign investors who are building

this super-luxury chain is putting itself at the top of what

new lodges. A pearl reveals itself.

Zimbabwe has to offer today in terms of unique safari accommodation.

“Finally, we were really worried!” The friendly boy in moss-green uniform including militarily polished leather

The hostess Dasnee serves a late lunch with roasted chicken

boots, raises the eyebrows with an air of ‘relief’ and

fillet, vegetable pie and cheese. This includes, of course,

immediately calls the lodge. “I got them”, we hear him

a fine glass of white wine, chenin blanc from the Cape.

fiddling. A little later, seated in the back seat of a Land

“Ranger Charlton will soon take you on a game drive,” she

Cruiser SUV, we get to hear the story. African bureaucracy

says, while we learn that the entire lodge runs on solar

(read: why make things simple if you can make it

energy stored in Tesla batteries. “A first for Zimbabwe,”

complicated with heaps of documents) ensured that

explains Dasnee. “Due to political unrest, investments were

nobody knew with which flight we would arrive. So they

not made here for years.

were at the ready with every arrival today. Only at the fifth arrival of the day, did they receive a response to the

Now that new and especially promising times are coming,

nameplate. But hey, we are in Africa, where time is not

this chain has decided to invest here in the Zambezi

expensive and nobody really cares, let alone get angry.

national park. And of course you do that with the latest

“Ha mi amukela” - “welcome” in the Shangaan dialect - the

technologies, such as solar energy and water recovery.”

crew shouts when we enter the non-walled Mpala Jena

In the evening we decide to leave the ventilation holes of

camp. This new address of the boutique chain Great Plains

the canvas wide open so as not to miss the sunrise. And so

Conservation has only four XL tents, all overlooking the

we are able to listen to the roaring hippos.

mighty Zambezi River. And even though they are literally

ZIMBABWE

ZI M BABWE I S LOO K I N G FO R A N E W TO U R I S T O PEN I N G “It can go in any direction, and the failed introduction of

to go deeper into the country, to Hwange National Park, to

an own currency in 2018 was certainly no boost, let alone

the Lake Kariba region, to Mana Polish National Park and to

something to be proud of. But we all hope from the bottom

Matobo. Previously it was a limited market, to which almost

of our heart that Zimbabwe climbs out of the valley and

exclusively British people traveled. Certainly not Americans,

slowly sets itself on the tourism world map. Again, because

who watched the falls and flew back. But now we regularly

Zimbabwe was attractive for tourists, and even exclusive,

receive requests for the rest of Zimbabwe. As a safari island

before the Mugabe era.” The speaker is Belgian Timo De

it is less known, but because it is less touristic, it houses

Nijs, managing director of the small-scale à la carte tour

incredible pearls... And lots of animals.

operator Atelier Africa, who comes to take a look at how the country is developing and especially what the new

Supported by large chains such as Great Plains

lodges and safari camps have to offer. We sit on the terrace

Conservation, Wilderness Safaris, African Bush Camps and

of the glorious Victoria Falls Hotel, Zimbabwe’s most chic

‘uncrowned king’ Singita, Zimbabwe works its way back into

and oldest classic luxury hotel, built in 1904 by the British

the offers and brochures. What Namibia realised about ten

and one of The Leading Hotels of the World. It overlooks

years ago (read: from barely anything to being sold out a

the Victoria Falls, the widest waterfalls in Africa. The decor

year in advance) is now also happening here. Cautious, but

is idyllic. For us, a water curtain of 1708 metres wide and

very promising.”

100 metres high with a maximum fall height of 128 metres forms a wall of natural disasters. 500 million litres of water pour down the rock wall every minute. This waterline forms part of the natural border between Zambia and Zimbabwe. Two waiters in uniform are moving behind us. They serve coffee in porcelain cups. The staff seems to have come straight from the British TV series Upstairs, Downstairs. “In recent years, many tour operators and investors have considered throwing in the towel,” says Timo. “But the elections came just in time: thanks to the new government and the Mugabe exit, they decided to give it another try. And yes, the tide turned immediately.” We chat and enjoy the moment. It feels as if David Livingstone - the Scottish missionary and one of the most famous explorers of southern Africa, who discovered the falls in 1855 - is looking over our shoulders. “No other view in England can surpass the beauty of this” and “such lovely images must have been watched by the angels with admiration during their flights,” he wrote later. “Zimbabwe has never been as interesting in the last 25 years as it is now,” says Timo. “The country is being rediscovered with great speed. And not just Victoria Falls, a kind of island in Zimbabwe. That has always continued to do well, of course thanks to the falls. But there is renewed interest from real travelers

ZIMBABWE

TH E R I S E O F A G IANT After the obligatory visit to the hiking terraces in front of and next to the falls, we get comfy into the back seat of the Toyota. Claude is our driver and he estimates the ride to Hwange national park to take two hours. “That is where the lodge takes over from me,” he explains. So there was enough time to take a closer look at the current challenges of Zimbabwe. “In the fall of 2018, things were difficult,” Timo explains. “The introduction of the Zimbabwean union, linked to the US dollar, had failed, so that the US dollar was taken back in half panic. The immediate result: empty supermarkets due to hoarding and an acute shortage of gasoline with hours of queues at the pump as a result. This in turn fed a black market activity. This situation makes Zimbabwe a more expensive destination, mainly because of the relationship with the dollar. Many neighbouring countries are related to the rand, the South African currency. And because it has been cheap for years, those countries are also doing well in terms of tourism.” However, Timo believes that Zimbabwe (invariably abbreviated to ‘Zim’ by locals) will get back on its feet in the short to medium term and will take a definitive place in the tourist landscape. “Many travelers who have seen Kenya, Tanzania, South Africa and Botswana are looking for new countries. Zambia is one of them, just like Zimbabwe, Mozambique and Rwanda. All destinations on the eve of a relaunch.” Or as he summarises it so beautifully: “We are now watching how a heavyweight steps back into the ring after a break.”

N OT LOO K I N G AT TEN ELEPHANTS Somalisa Acacia Camp - operated by the small-scale African Bush Camps chain - is such an address that even the most spoiled traveler should take a moment to swallow. The location, the structure and decoration of the tents, everything is so right. Completely overwhelming! When driver Clement took over from Claude, and we changed from a closed off-road vehicle to an open safari vehicle, we were warned: the ride will take three hours, but it is worth

ZIMBABWE

the trip, even though you will be regularly shaken because

of Zimbabwe, is one of the largest man-made lakes in

the roads are rural. But Clement is also joking about that.

the world, an artificial reservoir about 385 kilometres

“This is your free bush massage...” Somalisa is known for

downstream of the Victoria Falls. It has a length of 290

its elephants. That has everything to do with the immense

kilometres and extends to 32 kilometres. The total surface

drinking troughs that were built in front of the lodge. The

area is six thousand square kilometres. From the higher

animals know this and descend several times a day for a

elevated Bumi Hills Lodge, built from steel containers

fresh drink. In the evening we enjoy the barbecue in the

that were covered with canvas, we overlook the water

boma (a kraal: a walled place where people eat) and we

and the numerous small islands. In the late afternoon,

get up early. Because tomorrow coffee will be served at

ranger Maxwell takes us on a cruise. “Once, Lake Kariba, a

five o’clock: not to be missed, because the sunrise is the

project from the fifties, was the St. Tropez of Zimbabwe,”

busiest moment of the day to watch the crowds of drinking

he explains. “All you could see was luxury motorboats on

elephants.

Lake Kariba. But the political situation changed everything, tourism disappeared. Now it’s more like crocodiles and

There they are. More than thirty. They come to drink at

hippos. Nowhere else in the world do as many crocodiles

our feet, undisturbed, their matte black skin lighting in the

live as in Lake Kariba. There is a crocodile in the reservoir

first sunlight of the day. The scene becomes less idyllic

for every metre of the coastline.” The beautiful bays and

in the late afternoon. At the edge of a natural pool lies

numerous dead trees that protrude from the water form

the carcass of an elephant. “A natural death, age”, guide

a unique backdrop, especially when the sun starts to turn

Clement suspects. Lions indulge in the feast while the

red and Maxwell makes the gin tonics. In the evening we

first vultures have landed and await their turn. Eating in

try to divide the little time we have optimally. First swim

the jungle follows a pecking order, that much is clear. The

in the panoramic pool, then enjoy dinner on the terrace

bloody scene perfectly illustrates that safaris can be both

with front view of the lake. Because tomorrow we will fly

enchantingly beautiful and ruthlessly hard. After two days

on again. At seven o’clock sharp in the morning we fly to

of fantastic game drives and enjoying the atypical lodge,

Mana Polish National Park.

we fly on. Next stop is Bumi Hills, a completely different experience, we notice, as soon as the Cessna Grand Caravan starts landing next to Lake Kariba. Lake Kariba, in the north

ZIMBABWE

AFR I C A AT ITS PU R E S T We land on Manga Mana West airstrip in a setting that is not in the least reminiscent of where we left an hour ago. “One of the arguments for going on a tour in Zimbabwe,” says Timo as he unloads the kit bag from the propeller plane. “This country is so diverse, the vegetation changes so much, that you feel you’re in a different African country every day.” Ruckomechi Camp belongs to the South African group of Wilderness Safaris. Hostess Joan welcomes us with green iced tea and chilled towels to get the dust off our face. After all, a strong wind has covered the park in a sandstorm.

THERE ARE FEW PLACES IN AFRICA WHERE YOU CAN EXPERIENCE SUCH M A R I T I M E S A FA R I S

After breakfast, we are assigned to guide Edelbert and track finder Lucky (what’s in a name...), the duo that will assist us in all game drives and boat trips in the next 48 hours. Mana Pools, in the far north of Zimbabwe, is part of the lower stream of the Zambezi River and also forms part of the natural border with Zambia. After every rainy season, the floodplain changes to large lakes. When they slowly dry up and become smaller, the park attracts many large animals, including elephants, buffalo, leopards and cheetahs in search of water. This makes it one of the best places in Africa to view large game. The word “mana” means “four” in the Shona language. This refers to the four large permanent lakes in this part of the Zambezi. In 1984, Mana Pools, along with the Sapi and Chewore safari areas, was included in Unesco’s World Heritage List. The camp therefore explicitly works with the river. In the morning we go on a game drive by off-road vehicle (the Kalahari Ferrari, they say here), and in the afternoon by canoe or pontoon boat. “There are few places in Africa where you can experience such maritime safaris,” Timo notes. “Only the Okavango Delta in Botswana offers a similar atmosphere.”

ZIMBABWE

O N L AN D, O N WATER AN D I N TH E A S PHALT PITS Harare Airport welcomes us as if a nuclear war has just

And there we are the next morning, ready for 480

begun: no soul to be found. This morning we flew from

kilometres of African inland. Our little Japanese sloshes

Ruckomechi Camp by turbo plane to the capital where we

through the outskirts of Harare. We soon learn that at this

now, under the guidance of the pilot, walk to the exit. We’ve

hour red traffic lights are considered purely indicative, half

rarely seen an airport of a capital city that is so deserted.

of the minibuses (which operate here as privatised public transport) ignore them anyway. We drive straight through

For the desk clerk of the car rental company it must be a

Harare and are confronted with the real black Africa.

big day: a customer! Travelers who rent a car in Harare, let

That means litter, wells like craters in the road surface,

alone Europeans, are unique. He takes all the time for the

pedestrians who take the road as a footpath and a mass

enormous administration work and personally guides us

of people who are begging for a lift. That Africa fascinates

to the parking. “Sorry for the dust,” says the man with the

many travelers and gets under their skin is obvious. But of

tie. “It was washed this morning, but the wind is carrying

course nothing is perfect all of the time. The continent also

a lot of sand.” We take a seat in an eclectic blue Japanese

has its shadow sides, its poverty and decline. Downtown

SUV and drive across wide avenues with little traffic to

Harare is such a place, we conclude. We are therefore not

Armadale Lodge, a gem of a guesthouse from 1904 in a

unhappy that an hour later we are rolling through vast

suburb of the city. It has been in the hands of the same

green hills away from chaos. A toll booth suddenly appears.

family for three generations. In the evening chef Michael

“Two dollars”, the man says, the receipt already in hand. It

cooks us an excellent piece of chicken with coconut and

seems like our ticket to peace, a babbling road through the

we make open up a bottle of South African pinotage. For

countryside of Zimbabwe, where cows run free and children

dessert some wise advice: leave early, just before dawn.

still play football in the street. Villages are still villages here,

Harare is busy, later in the day it will take you two hours to

houses are huts, shops a corrugated iron loft brightened up

get out of the city.

by billboards of the world’s most drunk soft drinks

ZIMBABWE

An unexpected roadblock makes the eyebrows frown. In

G OO D, B E T TER , S I N G ITA

Africa, anything could happen. Soldiers and police are too happy to organise such roadblocks. Especially since the intentions are not always clear, we are not fans. ‘Police

Just after noon we do exactly what the program prescribes

checkpoint’ is written on a large rusted board next to an

for us: register at the gate of the Malilangwe Wildlife

empty oil barrel. The officer on duty is dressed in an old

Reserve, park our car next to the staff blocks and wait

raincoat that is two sizes too large and has an oversized

for the Singita SUV to pick us up. That’s Alex, a pur sang

old military cap on his head. Fortunately, we cannot see

adventurer who found love and work here after half a

any weapons. “How were things on the road”, he asks

world trip. His open Land Rover seems to come from the

cryptically. And apparently we have to take that literally.

showroom, but then again, this is Singita, perhaps the best

Of course, he had long seen that we are foreigners in a

safari chain in the world. “Welcome to Noah’s Ark,” he

rental car, so he also knows that the vehicle papers are in

welcomes us, while we set course to the lodge: “This is one

order. Only a friendly chat remains. So he wants to know,

of Africa’s best kept secrets.” Malilangwe in southeastern

among other things, whether there aren’t too many pits in

Zimbabwe is a private park of 40,000 hectares that is run

the asphalt. When he asks us from which country we come,

by the foundation of a wealthy American. To generate a

a smile appears on his weathered face. “Football… Eden

fixed source of income, he allowed the superlative Singita

Hazard… Fantastic… He is magic,” he suddenly calls out.

chain to build a lodge. Only their customers have the right

As a farewell, he also has a message for us: “Make a lot of

to visit this concession. “This policy means that two percent

publicity for Zimbabwe, Sir. We can use every tourist! Have

of the total world population of the black rhino lives here,”

a nice day,” he says as he slaps gently on our roof with one

Alex says. “Just like masses of giraffes, zebras, antelopes,

hand, the signal that we can leave. We continue, smiling. “If

buffalos, lions, hyenas and leopards.” And with that we also

we had asked for a selfie, he certainly would have agreed,”

discover the biggest problem of the more than 500 square

says Timo. We might not ever know.

kilometre park: poaching. “We employ 20 rangers who patrol 24 hours a day, seven days a week,” Alex explains. “But our greatest asset is the close cooperation with the locals. Involving them in the park, explaining how much natural wealth we have here, is crucial. No gun or helicopter can compete with that.” The Singita Pamushana Lodge is built on top of a rock. The level is out of category. This is for those who have already seen everything, or for whom only the best is good enough. Barely six suites (say villas) and one large mansion together form this bush hotel.

A S I S C U S T O M A RY FOR SINGITA, WE ARE IMMEDIATELY B L O W N AWAY

ZIMBABWE

PL AC E O F M I R AC LE S As is customary for Singita, we are immediately blown away

Singita literally means ‘place of miracles’, we discover at

when assigned to our suite; it not only comes with a private

half past five in the morning, when the guests slowly stroll

swimming pool, but also with a large outdoor shower and

into the outpost coffee bar for the first cappuccino of the

sun terrace, all with 100 percent privacy. “Only the animals

day. Here rangers, trackers and guests gather for cake and

can see you,” says hostess Helene. “But they are not very

coffee before leaving for a trip. And as befits a Singita

interested in that.” Hiya amkhela: Welcome! Together with a

address, everything is served of the highest quality. Half

regular butler, we are also assigned a waiter who, it is said,

an hour later, warm water jug in the back and blanket on

will serve us every meal at a different location. That same

our legs, we set course. In the afternoon we have lunch in

evening, the first location appears to be next to the pool,

the shelter of the central salon, after a refreshing dip in our

but candles, perfectly cooled award-winning chenin blanc

private swimming pool, we climb back into the SUV. It is

from the Heaven & Earth valley in Hermanus and plates of

already dark when we notice that Alex is not looking for

marinated salmon and beef fillet that are too good to eat.

the regular route back to the lodge, but is dropping us on unknown ground: a gigantic tree lighted with a hundred oil lamps under which dinner is served. Yes, the entire kitchen team has been working outdoors, including cool boxes with our favorite wine.

ZIMBABWE

Saying goodbye the next morning is difficult for us...

visitors. Why? Nobody? These ruins, according to legend

Because who doesn’t want to stay here for a week? Tatenda

once the capital of the Queen of Sheba, are otherwise a

and famba zvakanaka: Thank you and goodbye! But duty

unique settlement from the eleventh century. Once upon

calls. Next stop: Great Zimbabwe, UNESCO World Heritage

a time, this city of 800 hectares and 18,000 inhabitants

and perhaps THE formal landmark of the country. For this,

was the most important settlement of Banthan civilization.

we cruise the southern A9. That sounds like a highway, but in reality it is a glorified field road, although it’s asphalted,

Already in 1986, UNESCO classified this trade centre as a

it’s also richly supplied with stray cattle and children, huge

World Heritage Site. In a nearby lodge we embrace the local

wells - and toll booths. Actually, that’s an expensive word

simple but welcoming reception and oversized rooms. We

for two ladies under an umbrella working for a telecom

decide to leave early tomorrow morning for the last stop

operator who block the road with a large branch and ask

of the trip: Matobo National Park.

you for two dollars. But the receipt confirms that it is official.

We reach the Great Zimbabwe national monument one hour before closing time. Looking at the parking, we are the only

ZIMBABWE

N E VER SAY H OTEL TO TH I S H O U S E Matobo national park covers 44,500 hectares and was

different, the wow effect also reinforces the implantation in

established in 1953. In 2003 it was placed on the list

the midst of large granite boulders that appear to be strewn

of Unesco’s Cultural World Heritage. It is an ‘Intensive

like salt grains. When we enter the house, we are struck by

Protection Zone’, where a large population of white and

an eclectic design of African colours and materials. This is

black rhinos is successfully bred. It is also where the grave

really different. We are assigned a spacious room under the

of Cecil John Rhodes (founder of the British colony of

roof - literally under the corrugated sheets, with an ‘Out of

Rhodesia, ed.) is located. He is buried on the summit of

Africa’ bathtub for the canopy bed and a panoramic terrace

Malindidzimu or “the hill of benevolent spirits.” He referred

with sun beds you never want to leave. Yes guys, it’s not

to this hill because you have a ‘view of the world’ from

going to get any better.

there. In the meantime, they are cooking for us downstairs and Matobo National Park is located in the beautiful Matobo

we are kindly asked to choose a bottle of wine in the cellar.

Hills that are formed by a range of domes, towers and

Before sunset we accompany ranger Mickey for a mountain

balancing rock formations carved after millions of years of

bike ride, when we return the campfire is lit and the table

erosion and weathering from a solid granite plateau. The

is set. “Whenever”, the girls say. “Maybe you first want to

Monument Valley of Africa.

freshen up? Your bath is ready.” While sitting around the fire

Matobo therefore means ‘bald heads’ and the area has great

with a final glass of wine in the evening, we discuss the trip.

spiritual and cultural significance for the local population.

“Zim lives in hope and you can feel it,” Timo summarises.

One more reason for the owner of African Bush Camps to

“They are reawakening, they do everything they can to

build his summer house here - once intended as a private

redeem part of the safari world again.”

place to relax with the family - and recently opened to travelers. The building is called Khayelitshe, and that

In the evening we notice a small photo frame with a glorious

means ‘rural house where the family lives together’. It is

quote from David Livingstone next to the stairs. It states:

just outside the national park and we feel exactly what that

“God, send me anywhere, only go with me.” Every traveler

stands for when, after a search of more than an hour - we

is very welcome in Zim. Even without God.

drove three times past the gate before realising that we had to be here - we were welcomed by the two hostesses. Not only is the recuperation architecture exceptionally

ZIMBABWE

MANA POOLS

LAKE KARIBA

HARARE V I C TO R I A FA L L S G R E AT H WA N G E PA R K

ZIMBABWE RUINS

M AT O B O H I L L S GONAREZHOU N AT I O N A L PA R K

PR AC TI C AL :

B E ST TR AVEL TI M E:

Daily and direct flights from Brussels with Ethiopian Airlines

In Zimbabwe, the seasons are the opposite of ours. Winter

to Harare and Victoria Falls

falls in the months of June, July and August. Summer falls

For Zimbabwe you need a passport that is valid for at least

in the months of November to March. This is also the wet

another six months after departure. For Zimbabwe you also

season. In theory, Zimbabwe can be visited in any season.

need a visa, which you can buy on the spot for 30 USD. This allows you to visit the country once. .

BOO K I N G A TR I P :

The dry, cool winter months are very good for viewing wildlife. Just after the wet season, in April and May, the Victoria Falls are the most spectacular. At the end of the dry season, in the months of October to

This report was also created Ă la carte by Atelier Africa

December there is less spray, so you can see more of the

Safaris. We are based in Africa and specialise in demanding

surroundings of the falls. Everything is in bloom in April

tailor-made quality safaris in all price ranges. Each journey

and May.

and each program are unique, reflecting the needs of the customer. More about Zimbabwe and our other destinations can be found at www.atelier-africa.com

ZIMBABWE

CONTINUE YOUR TRIP TO ETHIOPIA The highlight mill of Ethiopia is perhaps the most extensive

If you grew up with Live Aid famine images of a dry, dusty

of any African country.

Ethiopia as a reference, then green Gondar and the Simien Mountains will surprise you.

This multifaceted Horn of Africa star is the ideal destination

The city is compared to the mythical Camelot, but the royal

for an adventurous and culture-filled journey.

architecture of the former capital of the Ethiopian empire is

In the extreme south of the country, the Lower Omo is

more reminiscent of a Tolkien story in the misty mountain

home to a spectacle of cultural diversity. Eight strains

landscape.

are aesthetically totally different here. The whole area is

From Gondar, you go on a journey through the Simien

on the World Heritage List, thanks to fascinating cultural

Mountains to an altitude of 4500m where you can spot

oddities such as the famous Mursi lip plates and important

many wild animals along the way. You share the place

discoveries of early fossils of human beings such as “Lucy”.

with gelada baboons, ibex (huge big horned mountain goats) and if you are really lucky you could observe the

More to the north, high in the mountains, you will find

endangered Ethiopian wolf (resembling a coyote).

churches carved out of rocks in Lalibela. This is one of the most amazing religious places in the

Unlike a few African cities we could name, Addis Ababa in

world! The thirteenth-century monoliths are interconnected

Ethiopia is well worth a visit and offers a comprehensive

by passages and together form the so-called “new

picture of the paradoxes and people of the country.

Jerusalem.”

ATELIER AFRICA SAFARIS

From Brussels to over 55 destinations in africa

www.ethiopianairlines.com et.be@kales.com 35

ZIMBABWE

AFRICA ESSENTIALS THROUGH THE COMING ADVENTURE

start of an unforgettable, exotic adventure. Or maybe Africa

DON’T FORGET ABOUT YOUR TRAVEL PHARMACY

is not new to you, but you have never participated in a safari

Before departure, you should have received the necessary

trip before. Not only the journey itself, but also packing your

vaccinations from your doctor or the Institute of Tropical

suitcase is a real challenge. What do you take on a safari?

Medicine. However, there are still some annoying creatures

We are here to guide you!

in Africa that can make life miserable for you. Do you want

When you travel to Africa for the first time, you are at the

to be completely safe?

P R O T E C T YO U R S E L F AG A I N S T T H E TROPICAL SUN

BUG SPRAY. A week-long mosquito bite can be

The sun is much hotter near the equator than it is over here,

annoying, but the bite of the malaria mosquito

so extra protection for your head and skin is an absolute

can make you dangerously sick. Spray regularly,

must.

wear long sleeves, trouser legs and socks, and always sleep under a mosquito net.

SUNSCREEN. Use sunscreen with the highest possible factor and apply again every two

FIRST AID KIT. Open wounds can get infected quickly in a

hours (or more frequently if you sweat a lot or

warm and humid climate. Don’t give bacteria a chance and

go swimming).

take care of them as quickly as possible. Also think about medication for nausea if you have to get

UV-RESISTANT CLOTHING. Wear tightly woven clothing

used to the African kitchen.

with long sleeves and legs and a high UPF value to prevent harmful UV rays. Normal cotton is not enough in the tropics!

FOCUS ON THE ESSENTIALS Your trip to Africa is an adventurous,

SUN HAT OR SUN CAP. Put on some

unique experience that takes you to the

headgear to keep the sun out of your

most beautiful, unspoilt places. So keep

face and prevent your scalp from

it simple and leave unnecessary things at

burning. That way your head stays

home. »There is often a strict weight limit for your luggage

cooler, which reduces the risk of a sun

on national flights. So do not bring too much clothing and

stroke..

make use of the laundry service in your lodge. »With zip-off pants you have long pants and shorts in one.

PUT YOUR LUGGAGE IN A DUFFEL BAG

These come in handy when it is still a little chilly in the

In a tight, crowded bus or dala dala (the Tanzanian version

morning, but it warms up quickly as the sun rises.

of a public taxi) or on a domestic flight there is often little room for your luggage. With a travel bag made of light, flexible material you can ‘cram’ in more and get in and out

WEAR NEUTRAL TONES

faster.

»Avoid bright colours, because they stand out quickly and chase away the wild animals on your path. With the typical safari hues such as khaki, beige, brown and olive green you play it safe.»Did you know that... the tsetse fly can see colours? More specifically, she prefers royal blue and black.

ATELIER AFRICA SAFARIS

CHOOSE THE RIGHT FOOTWEAR

and waterproof. This way you keep grains of sand out of the

The African landscape can be merciless for your feet.

viewer, you avoid condensation

Always wear the right shoes for your activities, so you are

on the inside of the lenses and

protected against blisters, thorns and stones..

you get a clearer image. »A lightweight model with a wide

TROPICAL SHOES. These canvas

field of vision makes it easier to

shoes with rubber sole are sturdy,

follow a herd of zebras running

yet light and airy. Ideal for a safari

away.

at high temperatures on a sandy or

» Do not be tempted by a device with a large magnification

muddy surface.

factor: it is difficult to handle and produces an unstable image without a tripod.

WALKING SHOES. Are you going on foot in search of

» Binoculars with a high light output are interesting to spot

wildlife? During longer, intensive hikes on rough terrain,

predators during the morning or evening twilight.

your feet will be more comfortable in a sturdy pair of hiking boots with a good grip.

HEAD LAMP » Are you looking for nocturnal animals in the dark? Then

SANDALS OR FLIP FLOPS. After a dusty, warm safari ride,

use a head lamp with colour filters. That way you don’t

a day at the beach or at the pool at your lodge is a pleasant

attract insects and you don’t scare the wildlife.

change. Flip flops also come in handy in the shower.

» With a lamp on your head, you also have your hands free to operate your camera.

DON’T FORGET YOUR GADGETS Nowadays in Africa, you cannot live without a minimum of

CAMERA

electronics while traveling.

» Always keep your camera in a dust and waterproof photo bag or put it in your backpack when traveling.

TRAVEL PLUG. You might carry an array of devices in your

» Wear a hip belt to hang your camera on during a hiking

luggage, without a universal adapter you will not be able

trip or walking safari. This way you have your hands free

to charge them everywhere in Africa.

for your binoculars or other matters. » Take a UV filter with you for your lens. Especially in the

POWE R BAN K . If you spend a

equatorial zone you will have to deal with strong light and

few days in the bush during your

high contrasts.

safari, you can extend the battery life of your smartphone or camera with a mobile travel charger. ACTION CAMER A . The GoPro H E R O 7, w i t h i t s f i n g e r - f a s t

ARE YOU LEAVING FOR AFRICA FOR A SAFARI SOON?

operation, is a handy and robust

THEN BE SURE TO STOP BY AN A.S.ADVENTURE STORE

pocket-sized camera to record your travel adventures.

IN YOUR AREA. WE ARE HAPPY TO HELP YOU ON

YOUR WAY.

BRING THE WILDLIFE CLOSER TO YOU BINOCULARS » Go for a gas-filled viewer that is dust

For an overview of our stores: www.asadventure.com

ATELIER AFRICA SAFARIS

NAMIBIA

NAMIBIA T H E U LT I M A T E SELF DRIVE

Like a grasshopper traveling through one of the least populated countries in the world; a track of 3200 kilometres per off-road vehicle through a blistering emptiness, immeasurably wide landscapes and a stunning natural beauty. On the way to the horizon we discover the soul of the country.

NAMIBIA

The B1 that takes us from the capital Windhoek to the south is in good shape and we have absolutely no problems with any traffic. We got shocked this morning. Hosea Kutako, the international airport of Namibia, is the size of a glorified shed and the forty kilometre long connecting road to the capital was almost free. Then we discovered that there are newspaper vendors here at the crossroads and that everyone simply stops in the middle to buy ‘The Namibian’: we have to thoroughly adjust our impressions about the concepts of bustle and space. Namibia is, after Mongolia, the least populated country in the world. Not much more than two million inhabitants and one million square kilometres in size. Or in human language: 27 times the size of Belgium. Those crushing figures become even clearer when we enter the Intu Africa reserve 260 kilometres later along an unpaved road. “Welcome to the silence of the Kalahari,” says the guard in tropical shirt and logo cap. “We are expecting you. The lodge is seven kilometres away, follow the river and moderate your speed. There is a lot of wildlife.” The Zebra Lodge is a classic safari villa bathed in a decor and tranquility that city dwellers experience as oppressive. This former cattle farm was renovated in a colonial style. We make ourselves comfortable on the terrace with the roadbook and enjoy a 180-degree panorama of pure nature. Late afternoon we jump in the open Land Cruiser and take a trip on the terrain. Following a great safari tradition, the ranger sets the table on top of the highest sand dune and ends the game drive with some nuts and gin and tonic during a stunning sunset. We are only here for a few hours, but the empathy is rising. In the morning on the road with the San, called Bushmen by the settlers. Once driven to infertile territory, they developed a keen field knowledge, coupled with sophisticated observation techniques of everything that

empty Namibia may be, no space was reserved for us,” says

lives and grows here. The five boys wear goatskin skirts,

the leader. “Even though we are the carriers of a unique

are small, skinny, petite, agile and tough and, by way of

culture. But it may be our culture that has now entered its

greeting, make it a sport to guess our age. When it comes

final stage. That is why we are grateful for this initiative. But

to my travel partner, they’re spot on, however, my gray hair

now we are silent, the animals can hear us...”

confuses them. They are clear about the how and why of these walking tours with visitors. “No matter how large and

NAMIBIA

TO TH E C AN YO N O F TR AN Q U I LIT Y AN D S I M PLI CIT Y

WI LD H O RS E S AN D ABAN DO N ED H O U S E S A day-long connection ride takes us via Aus to Lüderitz,

The word desert causes confusion, because it evokes

a seaside town of nothing. There is a high ‘Puerto Natales’

associations with sand dunes, while sand deserts are rather

feeling here; ‘a windy city’ in Chilean Patagonia where there

rare. Today we are racing further south, through the desert,

is so little to see that it becomes cosy.

but these are more transitional forms of landscape. Along the asphalted B4 and dirt road D463 we progress towards

After a refreshing night, we are the first to arrive at the

Fish River Lodge. A design hotel on the edge of the largest

entrance to Kolmanskop, an official ghost town. This place,

canyon in Africa and the second largest in the world, after

owned by De Beers, was a German miner’s settlement,

the Grand Canyon in the US.

named Sperrgebiet because of the rich presence of diamonds. When the area was exhausted, the families

The Fish River Lodge, with its 25 kilometre long access road,

moved away and it was finally closed in 1954. Since then,

can only be reached by SUV. It’s the hotel of our dreams

nature has taken over and the sand is up to a meter high

after more than 1500 hotel nights in all corners of the world.

in the houses in some places. “Waarskuwing!” (Warning),

Minimalistic, lots of air and light, natural materials and a lot

We read on a galvanised board in the former gym where

of style, especially in the details. We let all invitations for

now a nice cafe is housed and we have just ordered ‘a

trips and activities pass us by and make ourselves comfy

baby diggers breakfast’. “Die publiek word gewaarskut een

ourselves on a bench at the ravine, enjoying the beauty of

oortreding in die verbode diamant gebied sonder permitte.”

nature. A good book and a perfectly chilled glass of wine do

Fortunately, you can walk around freely here today and

the rest. This place is wild at heart, but is ruled by the sound

enjoy the phenomenon that has been used several times

of silence. We ponder: lodges like these make the star of

in feature films such as ‘The King is Alive’ and ‘Dust Devil’.

a country shine exponentially, regardless of the intrinsic qualities that the destination already has.

NAMIBIA

B U R N I N G SAN D

From the lodge it is only twenty kilometres to Sesriem, gateway to the main dish of Namibia: Sossusvlei and Dead Vlei. Normally, people go here at dawn to see the sun rise

Only a stop at the Helmeringhausen hotel along the way,

and to avoid the suffocating heat. But stubborn as we are,

the first coffeeshop along 300 kilometres of gravel road,

we go at midday with the logic that it is much less crowded

brings some diversion. And apple pie, the best in the

and that we have this Unesco site for ourselves.

country, is written on the chalkboard. The C13, where we don’t encounter a single car for a hundred kilometres (the

So we eat late and extensively at the lodge and arrive late

Brussels Ring is far, very far) brings us finally to Sesriem,

morning on the best asphalt road in the country. This takes

the heart of the Namib Desert.

us to the visitor’s car park seventy kilometres away. On both sides of the ride are high, red, impressive dunes. A vlei is a plain in Afrikaans, that sometimes fills up with rainwater, then drying out and leaving a broken crust. In a nutshell, Sossusvlei is a warm colour palette of all shades of red, with the highest dunes in the world. The sand here has been supplied by the northwest wind, lasting for millions of years, and the colours are a consequence of the oxidation process in the mineral composition of the sand. Today, all of this together yields 106,000 square kilometres of protected area. Unique in the world and that is an understatement. Real travelers do not park at the end of the approach road, but work their way with the 4x4 to the end point five kilometres away. There we go up the high dunes in goose step until we get an overview of the holiest of saints: Dead Vlei, a magical place where the dead and withered camel thorn trees stand as silent witnesses of better times. Hallucinatory. And we were right: we have the place for ourselves. What we’ve longed dreamed of, now we are here. ’

In the evening the wind is howling around Le Mirage Desert Lodge, a kind of royal castle in the desert with spacious romantic rooms and handsome terraces, the architectural style of which offers ideal protection against the harsh desert whims. A full moon illuminates the surrounding plains. The view makes us go to bed way too late, knowing full well that we’ll regret this decision the next day. But nature is too impressing.

NAMIBIA

C H I LD R EN I N TH E D E S ERT In the afternoon we set sail for Solitaire. “You are now in

them and eventually stayed there for three years. I started

the oldest desert in the world, we read in the roadbook.

a small campsite and a restaurant in Solitaire. It was the

The only settlement nearby is the hamlet of Solitaire,

start of a stormy development; there is now a hotel and fifty

known from Ton Van der Lee’s book. “ We look forward to

people live there.” That’s Ton’s story. Our end goal today

stretching our legs here, like true travelers. For the name,

is situated near Solitaire, the Moon Mountain Lodge. This

the gas station, the car wrecks, the toilet and the story. “In

lodge is also a perfect place to admire the stars and we

1996 I had given up my life as a film producer and I had

get lots of them when, in the evening after dinner in the

left for Africa without clear plans,” writes Dutchman Ton

main tent, we get comfy in the brick-built mini pool that is

in the introduction to the work that was reprinted many

built next to the canvas. We play Out of Africa, the bath in

times. “I bought a car in Cape Town and drove north. I

the prairie, including candlelight. How much silence can a

ended up in the desert hamlet of Solitaire in Namibia,

person tolerate?

which consisted of a gas pump (without gasoline), a shop and an old house. Two men lived there. They mainly lived from hunting. A car came by once or twice a week. I joined

NAMIBIA

TH E ROAD TO WALVI S BAY Our Toyota Hilux, equipped with raised suspension and

A bottle of Chocolate Block syrah and a grilled piece of

off-road tires, has interesting extras such as a 140-litre

meat, in the company of other seasoned travelers, end the

diesel tank and a minibar. We push the gas once again

day with more than a good feeling.

and head west. Rough cobblestone roads through the two beautiful mountain passes make way for optimistic improved versions and we end up on a sort of unpaved desert highway towards the coast. These roads have a destructive effect on people and machines. Treacherous pits force the driver to be vigilant and slow down. In the meantime, the sun creates dancing heat equators and the desert wind mercilessly crams the diesel filter. Tired of this ride, we are not unhappy when we drive into the misty sea air of Walvis Bay. The Skeleton Coast stretches over five hundred kilometres and deserves its name. Due to a combination of frequent morning mist and the presence of exceptional amounts of metal in the ground (which confuse ship compasses) several boats got stuck over time. Most visitors opt for a bed for the night in Swakopmund or Walvis Bay; the Saint-Tropez light version of Namibia. But we go for the great adventure: the Pelican Point Lodge, an active lighthouse with luxury rooms at the end of a narrow headland that you can only reach via a stretch of sand without roads. We were warned, but it still feels strange; once we have passed the salt factory on a narrow asphalt road, we have to drive through the sea, so to speak, and then suddenly arrive in a sandbox. We lower the pressure of our tires to 1 bar, put the Toyota in 4x4 low and increase the speed to four thousand. Like a jet ski on land we plow through the sand, swinging and pulling, the engine constantly in the high rpm to not get stuck. The lighthouse is our goal, it beckons and points the way to the end of the world. Many hotels in Namibia are entitled to listing â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;unique locationâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; in their description, but this surpasses everything. Having gained an experience and lost half a petrol tank, we arrive in the tower just before sunset where a generator provides the mini suites with warm water and electricity at suitable times.

NAMIBIA

H I G H FIVE WITH TH E S E AL

A PI N C H O F AU S TR ALIA Twijfelfontein is a unique place in mountainous Damaraland.

Walvis Bay or Walvisbaai is not only the most important

This area is home to an estimated 2,500 rock inscriptions

seaport of Namibia, it is also a nature reserve where masses

and paintings, all attributed to the Bushmen. Some signs

of flamingos, dolphins, pelicans and seals can be found. The

refer to trance dances and moon phases. There are plenty of

question is simply: for how long?

interpretations, but the scientific evidence is lacking. Even the precise age is uncertain. The fact that the drawings are

The lagoon, which attracts more than 160,000 birds a year

up to two thousand years old seems plausible to our guide,

and is a feeding place for another 200,000 migratory birds

who is now sweating from every pore. To admire this site,

per year, clogs up at high speed due to salinisation. The

declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO, we left the

government responded by declaring the area a wetland in

lodge early with pain in our hearts. We realise that traveling

1995 and the Coastal Environmental Trust of Namibia is now

at lightning speed results in heartaches in Namibia.

trying to have the lagoon declared a protected natural area. On the other hand, we now benefit from the peace and This U-shaped bay is best explored by boat. We opt for the

quiet, because soon the heat will come... and the minibuses.

pleasant Mola Mola from Pieter, a skipper who is known

In the stylish visitor centre (built entirely from recycling

for operating the best mini cruise in the bay. That means

material, especially oil barrels), we enjoy a chat with the

not only that he has a sea lion on board to say hello to

guide who can be called Albi for the sake of convenience.

the travelers, but that the tour (after many dolphins and

“That this area has been inhabited for millennia is due to its

pelicans traveling along) ends with an oyster buffet and

mysterious source,” said Albi. “Most of the time the water

ice-cooled sparkling. Tasty!

pushes up, sometimes it falls dry. Nobody knows why, but it has nothing to do with rain or drought.” In short, it is what it is in Afrikaans: a ‘twijfelfontein’, a fountain of doubt. That language is therefore full of imaginative words. Take the meager bush between the boulders: it is simply called ‘kanniedood’.

NAMIBIA

SCO RC H I N G PER FEC TI O N I N DAMAR AL AN D If space is the ultimate form of luxury, then the Mowani Mountain Camp must be paradise, at least for those who are willing to turn their back on some superfluous comfort (TV, WiFi, etc.). Perfectly camouflaged between a granite cobblestone pitch, immense reinforced canvas tents were planted. Thanks to the thatched roofs, the entire lodge is completely absorbed in the landscape. The gatekeeper first performs a dance of joy and then makes it clear to us that we should immediately head for the sundowners terrace, an out of this world viewpoint. With a glass of fresh South African chenin blanc in hand, relaxing on oversized cushions, we enjoy the plain of rock marbles that turn more yellow, orange, red and purple every minute; the African evening ritual. When we visit our Flintstones de luxe tent with the flashlight after dinner, the ranger on duty has one more message: â&#x20AC;&#x153;Sleep with the shutters fully open, so you can better experience the African night!â&#x20AC;?

NAMIBIA

DO U BTI N G B E T WEEN TR ADITI O N AN D FUTU R E

I N TH E LI O N ’ S D EN We spend our last nights on the route in Ongava. Flirting

Whoever travels to Namibia must follow the rhythm of

with the border of Etosha National Park you can’t dream of

nature. Getting up early is key. It is still cool when we get

a better setting to end your journey than the Ongava game

out of the entrance gate of Mowni and set course for the

reserve. Located at the top of a “cup”, actually a large rock,

Himbas via the bumpy road D2612. There are no signposts

you get a beautiful view from the lodge and the rooms

for this tribe, let alone billboards. You can find them by

across the plains of the reserve and Etosha Park.

following the advice of others. The village consists of a dozen huts and a round bead, built from thick branches

We can visit the park ourselves through the Andersons’

to house the animals. A dented kettle simmers on a tiny

Gate and by following the route along the various water

fire, and women and children sit around in bright sunlight.

sources that are partly natural and partly man-made, we

Silent. They are covered with brown-red ocher and only

soon stand face to face with a bunch of elephants and at

wear a kind of leather skirt and eye-catching jewelry.

the same time more than fifty zebras and springboks. But

Slow motion and a strange elegance go hand in hand

what we can spot later on the Ongava reserve will be the

here. The Himba tribes live on meat and milk and lead a

umpteenth highlight of the trip. Because the reserve is

semi-nomadic existence. According to tradition, they never

only accessible to guests of the lodge, you can go off-road

wash themselves, but they put a mixture of clay and fat

here compared to the park. So it is not long before the

on their skin. The hairs also receive the same treatment

ranger and his “tracker”, who reads the tracks in the ground

and cover the head in cigar-shaped tangles. The Himbas

at the front of the car, brings us nearly in the midst of a

are a dying breed. When the drought struck mercilessly

group of twelve lions. “The reserve covers almost 30,000

several times, many left their traditional existence. These

hectares and is currently home for three Prides,” says David

are persistent and receive a limited amount of guests. A

the ranger.

South African lady from the next village helps out as an

When in the evening while dining under the rich starry

interpreter. There is something melancholic about it, but

sky another three black rhinos accompany us nearby, it

the guide knows that these people are happy.

suddenly becomes very quiet. Isn’t there a saying that goes something like ‘Collect moments, not things’?

NAMIBIA

NAMIBIA H I M B Aâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; S

O K AV A N G O RIVIER E TO S H A PA R K

DAMARALAND WINDHOEK W A LV I S B A A I

KALAHARI SOSSUSVLEI F I S H R I V E R C A N YO N

KO L M A N S KO P P E

PRACTICAL:

BEST TRAVEL TIME:

The republic of Namibia has been independent since 1990

The dry season runs from May to October and this is also

after a colonial period in which both the Germans and the

considered the high season.

British left their mark.

On average, this country has 300 sunny days a year.

The country is as big as France and Italy combined and can be traveled very well. In Windhoek it is one hour earlier than

BOOKING A TRIP:

in Brussels and the Namibian dollar is linked to the South African rand, which is now historically low.

After living there for almost 15 years, we can say with certainty that we are really specialised in Namibia at Atelier

Namibia has become a very popular destination in

Africa. You can book this tour with us, but we are also

recent years. To be able to reserve the best locations and

happy to work out a tailor-made trip through Namibia for

accommodation, it is best to start planning this trip one

you. With the car or with a small airplane, or a combination

year in advance.

of both. Everything is possible.

NAMIBIA

ZIMBABWE

WA N T TO K N OW M O R E A B O U T V I R U N G A N AT I O N A L PA R K ?

W W W.CO N G OSAFAR I . B E

ZIMBABWE

MALAWI

THE MAGIC OF

MALAWI

A trip around the world in just one holiday? It’s possible in Malawi, where you’ll encounter surreal blue lakes, vast tea plantations and the big five within a few hours’ drive. Those looking for a versatile holiday destination can already book their ticket.

MALAWI

TH E MAG I C O F MAL AWI :

I N T H E FO OTS T E P S O F MADO N NA

In our busy world, authentic travel destinations are becoming increasingly rare. Those who want to visit iconic

That feeling is only strengthened as soon as I sit down at

landscapes, dying species or historic buildings often do so

the table. The menu features dishes with local ingredients

in the company of many fellow tourists. Not so in Malawi, a

that almost seem to melt on your tongue. After dessert, I

pearl of a place where the modern-day tourist has not yet

treat myself to a cocktail to finish the first evening right. If

started his conquest.

that also turns out to be a hit, I am completely convinced. This is the perfect place to relax and unwind for one or

I fly into the country via the capital Lilogwe, the political

two days. No wonder Madonna comes down here to take

center of the country that surpasses the rest in terms of

a break.

population. There is a pleasant activity on the street that

Fully relaxed, we leave the next morning for the Nkhotakota

points to the economic importance of the city. Ideal for a

Wildlife Reserve, a three-hour drive from the capital. This

short introduction.

park has had a turbulent history. Mismanagement, famine and poaching almost killed the wildlife, but at present

For our first night we head for Kumbali Country Lodge, a

Nkhotakota is primarily the model of the largest and

hotel about forty minutes’ drive from the airport. Kumbali

most successful reallocation project in African history.

means ‘out of town’ and that is exactly the feeling that

There are around 500 elephants walking around that were

prevails here. Both the spacious bungalows and the large

successfully relocated from Liwonde and Majete. The animal

dining area have a terrace that overlooks a large lawn and

population will be further restored in the coming years.

an orchard where dogs are happily and freely jumping

However, that does not mean that you have to wait so long:

around. Instant holiday feeling: check.

there is also a lot to experience now. For example, you can enjoy morning safaris in a canoe, hike up the hill or fish for a few days in the Bua River. You have plenty of possibilities here, but you don’t have to. A true relief.

MALAWI

DI N N ER I N TH E S K Y In the park itself I sleep in Tongole Wilderness Lodge, the only luxury location in the area. The bungalows overlook the Bua River, where you can see thousands of birds pass from your terrace in addition to elephants. You can have breakfast and dinner in the stylish main building, which looks a lot like the upgraded tree house that I dreamed of as a child. Incidentally, romantic dining is literally and figuratively raised to a higher level: a kind of raised platform has been built for a stylish tête à tête with your travel partner. “Alone in the world” meets “Indiana Jones.” For The Big Five you have to go to the Liwonde National Park in Malawi. The park itself is not very large and that is practical: you don’t have to drive for hours to spot some interesting things. We sleep there at Mvuu Camp in the middle of the park. Elephants, monkeys and warthogs parading in between the bungalows, as if they are in charge here. The latter is confirmed once again when one of the fat male monkeys runs away with my piece of bread in a moment of inattention. To the delight of the rest of the guests. Mvuu Camp organises both boat and jeep safaris. There are nine rhinos living in the park, so anyone who wants to increase their chances of spotting one should book a boat trip. I myself opt for the classic jeep safari to see as much of the park as possible. Along the way we pass a lot of ‘small game’, such as zebras, buffalo and pigs, before we arrive at the big guns: a family of cheetahs that is cosily warming up in the morning sun. We park our car at a safe distance and enjoy the playing animals in silence, who clearly have not lost their wild character yet.

MALAWI

M O D ER N RO B I N SO N C R U SO E That lovely scene could have been the highlight of my trip, were it not for the fact that I still have two spectacular stops on my list. The first is Mumbo Island, a remote island in the spectacular blue Lake Malawi. To get there I sit on a noisy old motorboat for about 45 minutes. The silence that comes over me as soon as the engine stops is therefore twice as intense. Mumbo Island is one of the best eco lodges in the world and has managed to minimise its ecological footprint. Yet you never have the feeling that you have to lose out on

THE SILENCE OV E RW H E L M E D M E

luxury. On the contrary: when I look out of my private cabin at the clear blue water, the adjacent private beach and the star-studded sky, I feel like a spoiled Robinson Crusoe. This must be the most beautiful place on earth, I contemplate before I fall asleep satisfied.

MALAWI

FI F T Y S HAD E S O F O R AN G E Yet the remote nature is not the only reason why people come here. You can snorkel, canoe, hike and dive on the island. The lodge itself also organises boat trips. I let myself be tempted by the sunset cruise. With a small motor boat I sail a long way away from the island with some other guests, so that we are almost only surrounded by water. With a fresh gin and tonic in our hands we watch breathlessly how everything around us changes colour from blue to orange. Even a small tear appears in the corner of my eye. Damn, life can be beautiful. After a night on the island you never want to leave. The regret I feel when my feet touch the mainland, soon makes way for curiosity about the next destination. That is, the stylish Huntington House in the middle of the tea plantations, both equally spectacular. The building itself was completely built in the British style of the 1930s, when the Maclean family moved in. Although renovation work has been done in the meantime, every effort has been made to retain its authentic character. This also applies to the rooms, which have largely retained the style of the original occupant. This may be taken in the wrong way, but believe me: father and mother Maclean were a lot more stylish than the average Flemish couple. There is plenty to do in the Huntington House area to keep you busy for a few days. Those who have completed a hectic journey can relax in the private garden with a cup of Malawian fair trade tea. Those who fancy a little more action can go for a walk between the tea plantations, visit the tea factories or go mountain biking. However, I choose to show myself from my most lazy side and opt for a jeep ride to the top of the tea plantations. A small picnic table has been installed there, where I see the African sun setting for the last time with a cocktail in my hand. I could not have dreamed of a better end to this wonderful journey.

MALAWI

L A K E M A L AW I

LILONGWE

L I WO N D E PA R K

L E N G W E N AT I O N A L PA R K

BEST TRAVEL TIME:

PRACTICAL: Malawi borders Zambia, Tanzania and Mozambique. Lake

The best time for Malawi are the drier and cooler months

Malawi largely determines the borders of Malawi and

from April to October. For hippopotamus spotting and

takes up 1/5 of the total area of the country. The lake was

following other large game you are better off at the end

discovered by the famous explorer David Livingstone and is

of the dry season. Malawi is almost on the equator and in

on the UNESCO World Heritage List. Lake Malawi is part of

the middle of Africa, in full summer the sun can get very

the large African rift valley, a breach in the Earthâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s crust that

strong here.

runs through East Africa from the Red Sea to Mozambique and therefore also marks the landscape in Malawi. Malawi is almost 4 times the size of Belgium. The length of the land

BOOKING A TRIP:

is 800 km, the width between 80 and 160 km. To the south lies the highest mountain in the country, Mount Mulanje

Interested to travel to Malawi yourself. Atelier Africa can

(3,000 metres) During our summer time there is no time

help you book Malawi as a destination on your own or

difference, during our winter time it is 1 hour later in Malawi.

as an ideal beach holiday in combination with Zambia

Flying to Malawi from Belgium is the easiest with Ethiopian

or Zimbabwe. Each trip is made to your wishes. If you

Airlines.

want more information about Malawi, contact us via info@atelier-africa.be

MALAWI

CONTINUE YOUR TRIP TO SOUTH LUANGWA IN ZAMBIA Combining a tour of Malawi with South Luangwa Park in

hundred at a time. In the Luangwa River you will also find

Zambia is actually a fairly logical choice! The park borders

huge numbers of crocodiles and hippos. It is said that there

almost entirely with Malawi in the east, and a car takes you

are 50 hippos here per km from the Luangwa River, there

there quicker from Lilongwe, the capital of Malawi than

are at least 6000 in South Luangwa!

from Lusaka, which is the capital of Zambia. There are daily flights from Lusaka directly to the park, so that is of course

If you would like to know more or would like to read an

also possible if you prefer not to travel through Malawi.

exciting travel story through South Luangwa, you should definitely purchase the following AFRICA magazine,

South Luangwa is a park that you may never have heard

because we travel through the various lodges, camps and

of, but it actually has one of the largest concentrations of

hides that the park has to offer.

wildlife in Southern Africa! South Luangwa is a home for large populations of Thornicroftâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Giraffe and huge herds of elephants and buffalo, where you often spot several

MALAWI

SOME DREAMS

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MALAWI

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WWW. ATELIER-AFRICA.COM MALAWI

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