AFRIKA 3 | The Wildest Travel Stories | Ethiopia - Madagascar - Zambia - Rwanda

ETHIOPIA

M A DAG AS C A R

ZAMBIA

R WA N D A

Travel back in time to a country

The largest island in Africa with

Between the leopards and luxury

Besides the mountain gorillas,

full of culture and natural beauty.

exceptional fauna and flora.

lodges of South Luangwa Park.

this country has so much more to offer.

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AT E L I E R A F R I C A S A FA R I S

Adventure is everywhere, your outfit at asadventure.com

AT E L I E R A F R I C A S A FA R I S

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THANK YOU, Asante, Dankie, Enkosi, Misotra In English, Swahili, African, Xhosa, Malagasy, we say thank you .

In Zambia we go for a walk in South Luangwa National Park, the cradle of the “walking safari”, a place where the trees are so big that the

COLOFON

Thank you for picking up and reading this book,

elephants seem small and where a leopard is

thank you for being inspired by the beauty of

never far away.

Africa. And especially to everyone who already PUBLISHER Atelier Africa Safaris info@atelier-africa.com

did or will do it soon, thanks for traveling to

We traveled through Madagascar for a little

Africa!

over a month, passing every corner of the third largest island in the world. We would like to

In recent years we have really noticed the

introduce you to our highlights of that route

impact one trip can have on so many lives

here. Because it was separated from the rest

EDITORIAL

in Africa. Both that of the animals and of the

of the world millions of years ago, there is a

Timothy Denys

local communities. That’s why we’re here with

unique fauna and flora on the island.

Michele Denys

a book full of travel inspiration!

www.atelier-africa.com

Mare Hotterbeeckx Gerrit Op de Beeck

Finally, we are in Rwanda, the smallest country We are proud to present four wild travel

with the greatest progress in prosperity on the

stories to you, across four less-known African

African continent. A country that clearly has

destinations: Rwanda, Madagascar, Zambia and

much more to offer than their world famous

Ethiopia.

Gorillas in the mist.

DESIGN

In Ethiopia we are surprised by how green the

Have fun reading. If you have to catch one virus

Tigerous

country can be, we explore the highest national

in the future, let it be a travel virus. We’ve had

Glynn Denys

park in Africa and we also look for beautiful

that for a long time and we’ll be happy patients

info@tigerous.be

cultural gems hidden in the landscape.

to the end of our days.

FINAL EDITING Timothy Denys Michele Denys

Michèle & Timo Denys business managers Atelier Africa Safaris

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AT E L I E R A F R I C A S A FA R I S

ETHIOPIË Architectural treasures, desolated highlands, and the best coffee in the world: Ethiopia is a dream destination for travelers who like to combine culture and adventure. No wonder that the country is rapidly becoming the next hype in travel.

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MADAGASCAR More than sixty species of lemur, one hundred different types of chameleons, and almost a thousand varieties of orchids render Madagascar by far the most colorful destination in Africa!

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AT E L I E R A F R I C A S A FA R I S

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ZAMBIA The nature is untouched, the wild animals numerous, and the lodges both surprising and luxurious.

Welcome in South-Luangwa, one of the few places on earth where you count leopards instead of sheep to fall asleep.

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RWANDA What’s the first thing you think of when someone says ‘Rwanda’? Chances are that your answer will be ‘gorilla’. And/or genocide. And no one will blame you for that, especially not the Rwandans. Today, however, the small country has put itself on the tourism world map and is slowly becoming the newest luxurious hotspot of Sub-Saharan Africa.

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AT E L I E R A F R I C A S A FA R I S

Atelier Africa

IN CONVERSATION

Atelier Africa is the brainchild of Michele and Timo, two seasoned travel birds. Both flew away from the mother nest before they were 18 years old. Michele, from Werdau in East Germany, has ended up in Namibia after a few years in Munich, Salzburg and London. Timo, from Brakel in East Flanders, has ended up directly in Namibia, for what originally would have been only a few weeks after his secondary education. With the Namibian capital Windhoek as their base of operations, both have intensively traversed the region. All the way through Botswana, Zambia and Zimbabwe to Mozambique, or all the way around South Africa: those were the kind of long road trips that both Michele and Timo love. When they bumped into each other in Windhoek, their love for the African natural beauty only increased.

How did Atelier Africa come about?

Namibia is known as one of the most beautiful

Timo: “When we got to know each other, I also set out

countries in the world, with sun almost every day.

to explore Tanzania and Kenya as the marketing manager

Yet you decided to move to Belgium. Why?

for an African luxury lodge group. Unfortunately that was

Michele: “Namibia is indeed beautiful, but it is also the

without Michele. And I wanted to change that…”

most sparsely populated country in Africa. After years away from home, we both felt like living a little closer to

“That gave birth to the idea for Atelier Africa: an opportunity

our family. In addition, the plan was from day one to also

to share our passion for traveling and our knowledge of the

offer East and Central Africa with Atelier Africa, and from

region with others.

Namibia it is literally longer on the road to Congo, Tanzania, Kenya, Uganda or Rwanda than from Brussels. The move to

In 2011 we got engaged and we also officially founded the

Belgium was certainly a good move with the establishment

company in Namibia. Beyond our expectations, it quickly

of Congo Safaris.”

became a great success, and we were able to receive new customers in Windhoek almost every week. They received a very detailed route book with a lot of tips from us The very personal approach of the two of us in planning their route was clearly much appreciated, we got started.”

WE FOUNDED THIS C O M PA N Y B A S E D O N OUR FIRM BELIEF T H AT T R AV E L C A N B E A POSITIVE FORCE.

AT E L I E R A F R I C A S A FA R I S

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Why did you choose the Congo Safaris brand name?

Travel has been hit hard by the corona crisis. Do you

Didn’t Atelier Africa already exist?

see that going well?

Timo: “After our first visit to Virunga Park, we immediately

Michele: “Absolutely! The world is a book and those who

fell in love: with the destination, the people, the concept.

do not travel only read one page. Of course we are talking

Because Virunga is much more than a national park: the

about real travel here, I am sure this will come back. We

organization not only protects animals and nature, but also

founded this company based on our firm belief that travel

does a lot for the four million people who live around the

can be a positive force. Each of our guests makes a direct

park in Eastern Congo.”

contribution to conservation or development projects in the local community on every adventure.”

“We wanted to support Virunga extra hard, but we also know that Congo is not an obvious destination. That’s why we felt it was important to specialize extra hard, build

What do you mean by “real travel”?

connections and recruit the best local guides, so that we

“Goh, there is this famous quote: ‘A traveler discovers

can offer this product not only to direct customers, but

what he sees, a tourist sees what he wanted to visit’.

also to travel agents. And we succeeded. In four years we

Traveling should be much more than checking off a list.

became the largest supplier of customers to the park and

Such a list is good ofcourse, and that is how most people

we had someone in Virunga almost every week.”

come to us: with the desire to see a silverback gorilla, or the great migration over the Mara River, or the Victoria Falls… But then it is up to us to to build a beautiful route and a real experience around that wish, resulting in a truly unforgettable journey.”

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AT E L I E R A F R I C A S A FA R I S

How do you handle that?

Timo: “I’m not going to say that every trip has to be sustainable and responsible. There is nothing wrong with just seeking out the sun and rest, anywhere in the world.

But if you are planning a holiday to the destinations we offer, it seems to us a must to travel through them with the right organization and attitude.”

W E H AV E T E S T E D E V E RY R O U T E W E P L A N O U R S E LV E S

“That is: not just being a tourist and flying back home with a smartphone full of selfies, but experiencing a journey that leaves a positive impact on both yourself and the country

You also became a mom and dad for the first time

you are visiting.”

in mid-corona...

“That is: not just being a tourist and flying back home with

Michele: “Yes, luckily we had only just had a beautiful

a smartphone full of selfies, but experiencing a journey that

‘babymoon’ through Namibia before the world literally

leaves a positive impact on both yourself and the country

closed. After that we had some very emotional and

you are visiting.”

uncertain weeks, with new cancellations and problems to solve every day. So that our little one came to join us at the beginning of June, it was literally a gift from heaven: for a while we only had time to spend on a pink cloud.”

AT E L I E R A F R I C A S A FA R I S

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Last question. In addition to all your projects, you also make time for Wind & Roots. What is that exactly?

Michele: “Wind & Roots is the result of a few months of sitting semi-still in times of corona, and trying to answer various cries for help from Africa.”

“Nelson Mandela said that education is the best weapon for a better world. What are small amounts for us here quickly makes a world of difference in Africa, and that is why we want to support a few schools there, where we know the teachers and principals ourselves. Especially girls’ schools, because girls still have few opportunities to go to school in Africa.”

Timo: “In addition, nature conservation in Africa is something that we absolutely must not lose sight of, especially in places where there is little or no tourism. That

So soon on safari with the three of you?

is why we support a huge tree plantation near Idiofa, my

Timo: “Absolutely, we are already completely satisfied! By

mother’s hometown in Congo, where we want to help

the way, more than half of our customers go on safari with

reforest several thousand hectares of former forest.”

their kids and that too from a fairly young age. Of course a baby is still a bit young. But from the age of five or six, a child is well aware of what is happening. A customer recently informed us that his two kids at home would go outside and play more after the trip, ‘because those kids there don’t have an iPad either’, was the child’s mouth. The dad immediately thought: ‘mission accomplished’. We are therefore also looking forward to showing our offspring more of the world!”

A LAND FULL OF AMAZING AND WITHOUT EVIDENCE

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AT E L I E R A F R I C A S A FA R I S

ETHIOPIË

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ETHIOPIA AT Y P I C A L A F R I C A

Architectural treasures, desolated highlands, and the best coffee in the world: Ethiopia is a dream destination for travelers who like to combine culture and adventure. No wonder that the country is rapidly becoming the next hype in travel.

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ETHIOPIË

For people who travel to escape, Ethiopia is the place to

a melting pot of nationalities and cultures. The streets are

be. Here, you swap the daily hustle for peace, the rain for

packed with ultra-modern offices, impressive skyscrapers,

sunshine, and the rut for continuous amazement. This is my

and fancy hotels. The local youth migrate to this city,

conclusion after a ten-day trip to the north. It’s the most

looking for a job or a future. As a tourist, you come here to

popular and beautiful region of the country, as I am told by

catch your breath and to get acquainted with the delicious

some excited locals upon my arrival.

Ethiopian cuisine.

It definitely is beautiful; the popularity appears to be not

In the National Museum you can indulge yourself in a crash

too bad in practice. Even in the most amazing places,

course on ‘Ethiopian history for beginners’. I am tempted

Ethiopia has not become a victim of mass tourism yet. Yet,

into taking a guided tour, after which I retire to my luxurious

because unfortunately, this type of country is at the verge

room of the brand-new Skylight Hotel for a shower and

of extinction.

a nap, felled by the night flight which was a little too short.

I begin my journey in the busy capital: Addis Abeba,

ETHIOPIË

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FIFTY SHADES OF BLUE Without a delay, I hop on another plane that same day to Bahir Dar, the perfect base for water enthusiasts and rest seekers. I’m staying at the Kiruftu Resort and Spa, a beautiful hotel at the foot of the gigantic Lake Tana. From my balcony I have an amazing view of the endless surface of water, which seems to dissolve into the light blue horizon.

‘No wonder they used to think that the earth was flat’, my mind tells me, while I enjoy my homemade cocktail.

Lake Tana is the largest lake of Ethiopia and its surface covers about one tenth of Belgium. It is dotted with small islands on which monks built monasteries and churches en masse in the 14th century. How that managed to do so, remains a mystery to me. It is, however, impressive: you cannot claim they were lazy.

The monasteries are built for and by men. As a woman you cannot set a foot inside. A boat ride of about one hour brings me to a church that I may actually enter. On my way there I enjoy the wonderful sunshine, the refreshing breeze, and the swell of the waves that is almost meditative.

I aim my gaze at the horizon, where – apart from a couple of fisherman and pelicans – nothing or nobody passes by. It doesn’t take long for me to feel the calmness of the environment transform into peace in my mind. This is the perfect cure for stress and overstimulation.

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ETHIOPIË

COFFEE CEREMONY The island itself is tiny and heavily vegetated: stunning,

The contrast with our western way of consuming coffee

but I can hardly imagine people living here. Nevertheless,

couldn’t be bigger: hasty, on the road, and often with our

I am cheerfully greeted by some islanders, who carry me

gaze fixated on our smartphones. Could it be that we, in

along to a market. Apart from scarves, colorful paintings,

our rush to develop ourselves at top speed, lost something?

and Christian crucifixes, they also sell coffee, made of

I almost become nostalgic while staring into my white

hyper-local coffee beans.

porcelain cup.

‘Do you want to participate in a coffee ceremony?’, the

The church visit is equally surprising. Contrary to the

salesman asks me with an utterly sweet smile. Refusal is

churches I know, this one has a round shape. Colorful

impossible in such an idyllic setting, so I meekly settle down

scenes from the Bible are painted on the walls, in the center

on the colorful carpet. According to the guide, the black

a mysterious relic is preserved. Only a handful of high-level

gold has an important social purpose in Ethiopia. ‘Everyone

priests know what it looks like exactly. Unfortunately, you

gathers in the same place to chat. Coffee ceremonies are

are not allowed to enter the room as an ordinary visitor.

the time and place to discuss important events or gossip.’

Usually, my lack of religious background doesn’t bother me, but right now I’m pretty bummed. As a human being, you’re always longing for that which is out of reach.

ETHIOPIË

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“ C O U L D I T B E T H AT W E , IN OUR RUSH TO DEVELOP O U R S E L V E S AT T O P S P E E D , LOST SOMETHING?”

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ETHIOPIË

WONDERFUL SPECTACLE

WAT E R

The next day a guide and his 4x4 take me to the Blue Nila Falls, arguably the Niagara Falls of Ethiopia, and the most important attraction in the region. It’s not hard to see why: the access road is an adventurous rock path that takes you past the most various landscapes. Along the way I encounter countless locals with cows, children, or merchandise.

We pass by the idyllic bridges and extensive fields, and often need to cross the Nile. The latter itself is more than worthwhile coming here, and we haven’t even reached the waterfall yet. I am beyond lucky with the conditions on the day of my visit. It is dry season, but thanks to the heavy rainfall of the day before, I am blessed with a true water spectacle that I can admire all by myself. At least if I don’t take into account the grazing goats in front of the waterfall.

ETHIOPIË

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INJERA BEFORE LUNCH The next stop is Gondar, a medium-sized city at the foot of the Simien Mountains. Up until 1855, this place was the capital, which is still noticeable today. A healthy bustle is omnipresent, and you can feel the history as you walk around. I decide to visit Fasil Ghebbi, a number of castles that have made UNESCO’s World Heritage list.

On our tour we are accompanied by a guide, which I can only recommend: the trivia that he tells us about the castle, gives the place a new dimension. In the animal cages, for example, real lions were kept until 1991. Today, holding an endangered species captive in a cage of 50 square meters is hard to imagine.

I process my visit during a delicious lunch at The Four Sisters. It is a traditional restaurant that combines the best of the Ethiopian cuisine on your plate. You compose your own menu based on the available buffet, but it’s almost impossible to make a wrong choice here.

“ E V E RY T H I N G I S S O D E L I C I O U S T H AT I A M AT A L O S S F O R W O R D S . ”

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ETHIOPIË

THE SUBLIME SIMIENS From Gondar it only takes you about two hours to reach the Simien Mountains, an enormous mountain area which is also listed as UNESCO World Heritage. ‘Welcome in our own Grand Canyon’, the guide smiles. In terms of view, the park does have a lot in common with its American counterpart, but it’s less busy and far more exciting here. If you’re lucky, you might spot one of the four hundred last Ethiopian wolves, but you’re sure to encounter a whole herd of gelada monkeys.

I’m staying the night at the almost magical LimaLimo Lodge: an insanely beautiful eco hotel right in the center of the park. My minimalistic wooden room has giant windows that overlook the mountains. The only thing I see is nature, the only thing I hear are animal sounds. The hotel is a great starting point for various hikes, although it’s equally enjoyable to just relax on the terrace. Thanks to the unique view, the great wine, and the overwhelming quietness, it’s not hard to do so.

After this refreshing day of rest, I make my way deeper into the park. The goal? Meeting the gelada monkeys, the ibex, and the Ethiopian wolf. Not much later, the mission appears to be much easier than expected: ‘sshhhttt, there they are’, the guide points out after barely ten minutes of walking.

ETHIOPIË

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I follow his finger and notice a group of about 70 monkeys grazing diligently. Carefully, I sneak closer by, but the animals are more interested in the grass than in my presence. They have this kind of unshakable focus of which you become instantly jealous as a human. The females have a striking heart-shaped red spot on their chest. ‘When they want to mate, the heart becomes a little brighter’, the guide explains. These are the type of facts that warm the heart, although the environment might have something to do with that too.

I continue towards the top of the mountain, about 4.550 meters high, by jeep. Once again, it’s just me and my guide here. In front of me, an ibex hops determinedly towards his peers. Next to me, a monkey is peacefully enjoying the sun below a palm tree. ‘I have found one of the last undiscovered places on earth’, I tell myself gratefully while I stare at the horizon. Some things are so big that cannot be translated into words. This view is one of them.

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ETHIOPIË

CHURCHES AND CULTURE My final stop is Lalibela, a city that is mostly known for its unique rock churches. I visit all twelve of them over the course of two short days, but this definitely not a must.

After all, Lalibela has a lot of other things to offer as well.

The legendary restaurant, Ben Abeba, for example, is worth a visit simply because of its architecture and spectacular sunset.

And I haven’t even mentioned the amazing, honeyed wine that they serve in one of the most infamous dance bars in the city. I decide to go there on my last evening. After two glasses I am tipsy enough to engage in a dance battle with a couple of local professional dancers. My dance moves are met with jeers, but the freeing euphoria that I feel while doing so perfectly summarizes this trip.

Ethiopia is in no way comparable to other African destinations. It’s a country full of amazement and where nothing is guaranteed: an experience to remember.

ETHIOPIË

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“ A C O U N T RY F U L L OF AMAZEMENT AND WHERE NOTHING IS GUARANTEED”

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ETHIOPIË

ETHIOPIA

AKSUM OBELISK

S I M I E N M O U N TA I N S

LALIBELA

GONDAR

BAHIR DAR E R TA A L E

D I R E D AWA HARAR

OMO N AT I O N A L PA R K

B A L E M O U N TA I N N AT I O N A L PA R K ADDIS ABABA LUCY

PRACTICAL:

BEST TI ME TO TRAVE L :

Ethiopia is easy to visit with a daily, direct flight departing

The dry season in Ethiopia covers the entire European

from virtually every European capital to Addis Ababa.

spring and winter. From September until April, the country

Ethiopian Airlines is the African airline of choice and

is at its most beautiful. Especially in early fall season, shortly

connects almost every African country via Ethiopia with

after the rain, Ethiopia is gorgeously green!

the rest of the world. Therefore, you can easily combine any other African destination on your wish list with a stopover in Ethiopia. Even inland Ethiopian Airlines offers

BOOKI NG YOUR TR I P :

easy connections to all the highlights of the country. And in every remote corner, we have the perfect guide waiting

Thanks to the easy connections of Ethiopian Airlines, Atelier

for you!

Africa Safaris has travelled through the different regions of Ethiopia multiple times. Our booklet is stuffed with amazing local guides, wonderful walking trails, and secret corners.

We take pride in the fact that our trips through Ethiopia are always unique and far from the crowds!

ETHIOPIË

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Stellenbosch

Rouseu Wijnen & Likeuren Kortrijksesteenweg 147 St Martens-Latem

www. rouseu.be 21

ETHIOPIË

M A DAG AS C A R

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M A DAG AS C A R MAGNIFICENT MADAGASCAR

More than sixty species of lemur, one hundred different types of chameleons, and almost a thousand varieties of orchids render Madagascar by far the most colorful destination in Africa!

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M A DAG AS C A R

About 88 million years ago, Madagascar tore itself away

Ever since the arrival of humans, about 2,000 years ago,

from the rest of the world. As a result, the local plant and

about 90 percent of the original jungle has unfortunately

animal species evolved in complete isolation. Therefore, the

disappeared, and thereby also animal species such as

largest island of Africa and the fourth largest island of the

the almost three-meter-high elephant bird (an enormous

world is absolutely unique in terms of fauna and flora. Upon

ostrich), and a lemur species the size of a gorilla!

arrival, you immediately notice that the local population consists of a unique mixture as well, with both Asian and

Fortunately, well-organized tourism today contributes to

African influences.

the preservation of this wonderful part of the world.

M A DAG AS C A R

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C ALL M E TANA After a comfortable flight from Brussels with Ethiopian Airlines, with a layover in Addis Abeba, we land around noon in ‘Tana’, the much easier nickname of Madagascar’s capital, where about one and a half million of the 225 million Malagasy live.

A visit to the city leads us past narrow shops selling meat, vegetables, and fruit, which is simply displayed at the front door. At the small stalls, past streets filled with old Renault 5’s, fresh banana fritters, mangoes, and whole branches of ripe lychees are also being advertised. Suddenly, we notice a man on a bike with a bunch of baguettes under his arm, definitely not a regular sight in Africa. But one that is nevertheless easy to explain, because Madagascar used to be a French colony until 1958. When we are handed the menu at night, France isn’t too far away either.

The menu contains dishes such as local Zebu steak with pommes dauphinoise and crème brûlée. The wines on the other hand, all come from the South-African Kaap, which is promising for the remainder of the trip.

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M A DAG AS C A R

SAL AMA VA Z A The next day, we hop on a small plane from Tana to Morondava, a city on the west coast of the island, where it is remarkably warmer. We notice it right away on the tarmac, where our guide Tienna awaits us. We are staying right here on the beach in a small lodge. Palissandre Côte Ouest will be our first base from which we will explore this unique corner of Madagascar.

In the afternoon we sail in a traditional pirogue, which is actually a hollowed-out tree trunk, to the local fishermen’s village, where a group of small children immediately runs towards us. “Salama vaza!” – “Hello stranger!” we hear everywhere we pass by. About 40% of the population of Madagascar is younger than 18, which we notice right away here.

The men of the village have just returned from fishing and are cleaning their nets, while the women are preparing a fire and cooking. The chickens and the pigs wander around peacefully. I wonder how they know which animal belongs to whom.

Back at the hotel, we enjoy an ice cold Three Horses Beer while watching a spectacular sunset over the Indian Ocean.

We decide to tuck in early because tomorrow will be quite a busy day.

I WONDER HOW THEY KNOW WHICH ANIMAL BELONGS TO WHOM.

M A DAG AS C A R

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De meest spectaculaire vondst, en voor mij ook meteen de meest impressionante kameleon, werd door de lokale gids Kongo gespot vlak naast onze volgende lodge. Ik verdenk er hem nog steeds van dat het beestje al in zijn broek stak, want deze jonge dwerg-kameleon is slechts 1,5cm lang en was onmogelijk te zien voor het ongetrainde oog!

Tijdens dezelfde zoektocht vond Kongo ook nog een girafkever. Met knalrood lijf en een lange nek (toch in verhouding tot de rest van zijn lijf) was dit ook een zeer merkwaardig beestje om te spotten. Zo hadden we meteen al twee soorten van Madagaskars ‘Mini Five’ gevonden.

TS I N GY The word ‘tsingy’ means ‘walking on the tips of your toes’

the dark grey rocks, which makes it easy for us to spot

in Malagasy, and ‘very careful’ seems to us the best way

them. Our first lemur can be checked off the list!

indeed to walk between these razor-sharp stones! This park is also called ‘the stone knife forest’ and is the result of years

We are handed a harness and a helmet and are ready

of erosion and monsoon rain. This part of Madagascar has

to defy the limestone towers after a short briefing. The

only been accessible for tourists since 1998, although you

highlight is the hanging bridge across an enormous

still need a sturdy 4x4 to defy this ‘Route Nationale’. The

canyon… with razor-sharp rocks beneath us!

park is closed from December 1st until April 1st, because that’s when the rainfall is too heavy, and it becomes

This will by far be the most exciting moment of our trip,

impossible to reach the park through the sludge.

along with the crossing of a river which we attempt a few hours later, with our Mitsubishi Pajero placed on a very

However, anyone who travels here at the right time of

simply lashed together wooden raft. Fortunately, Tienna

the year is rewarded with an incredible adventure. This

had done this before: he was much more comfortable than

spectacular geological phenomenon of limestone pillars,

we were.

caves, and cliffs up to 100 meters high, is also the home of one of the most beautiful lemur species: the silky sifaka.

Thanks to their fur of pure white fluff, they stand out against

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M A DAG AS C A R

BAO BAB L AN E To finish the day, we stop at one of the most iconic locations of Madagascar at sunset: the ‘Avenue des Baobab’. The lane consists of 25 enormous trees of almost 1000 years old, the remains of what once was a tropical forest.

The Malagasy call these trees “Renala”, which means ‘mother of the forest’. The fact that many of these ‘mothers’ were cut over time to make place for rice cultivation is deplorable. What remains, is all the more worthwhile to visit.

A little further down the road, you can find two hugging baobabs that are therefore called “Baobab amoureux”.

IT SEEMS LIKE ENDED UP UPSIDE DOWN

Only nine types of baobab trees exist on our planet, of which six can solely be found on Madagascar. Baobabs can grow as high as 30 meters and their stem can stock up to 120,000 liters of water to use during dry season.

“If you look too quickly, it seems like they ended up upside down!” Tienna tells me. “An old legend of the bush men even claims that these are the trees that used to be in the gods’ gardens and were thrown from heaven on earth during a tantrum, whereby they landed upside down…”

Beautiful, right?

M A DAG AS C A R

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The most spectacular finding, and in my opinion also the most impressive chameleon, was spotted by our local guide Congo right next to our next lodge. I keep suspecting him of hiding the animal in his pockets, because this young dwarf

A CO U NTRY FU LL O F CO LO R

chameleon is only 1,5 centimeters long and was impossible to see with unexperienced eyes.

During the same search Kongo also found a giraffe

Before we continue our route around Madagascar, we

weevil. With a bright red body and a long neck (at least in

are given the opportunity to explore a local market. An

comparison to the rest of his body), this was also quite a

incredibly colorful experience with hundreds of people

remarkable little animal to spot. By doing so, we had already

on the road who sometimes walk or bike 20 kilometers

found two species of Madagascar’s ‘Mini Five’ right away.

towards the coast to trade or sell their products from the mountains.

Later on, when we drive deeper into the mountains, we spot beautiful, bright green rice fields and banana plantations that clearly stand out against the dark read soil upon which the various terrasses are built.

Suddenly, the guide hits the breaks abruptly. We don’t quite understand why, because there is nothing or nobody to see on the road. Or at least that’s what we think… Tienna asks us to get out of the car, because he did see something: a chameleon! The same scene will repeat itself multiple times during our trip.

With our next guide we are equally amazed by the fact that these men are able to spot a chameleon, which is literally built to go unnoticed, while we drive by at a speed of 70 kilometers per hour. With more than 100 different species, every stop is definitely interesting: after all, the chameleons all have different sizes and colors.

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A M O N K E Y ’ S L AN D In all but one, Madagascar is the country with the highest number of primate species. There are more than 60 different kinds of lemurs or makis, and scientist expect to discover even more variants still, but Brazil does top the mist with 72 species. I doubt whether this record can be broken…

Arrived at our next location, now in the south of Madagascar, a number of safaris are on the agenda. Not with an open 4x4, like we are traditionally used to in Africa: this time it’s all by foot.

We find ourselves in the Mandrare River Camp. As the name of the lodge already suggests, this is where we tackle the river by canoe, to a holy island without any human inhabitants, but where the very popular ring-tailed lemur lives! After a short walk through the tropical vegetation, the guide signals us to sit down.

Not much later we are surrounded by a family of almost 20 beautiful animals, that are occupied collecting food. We sit under a type of berry tree and thus literally find ourselves in their kitchen. It is a true pleasure to watch them do their thing, so we remain seated here for a while.

In the late afternoon, we make our way to a completely different type of vegetation, the so-called Spinny Forest, consisting of huge cactus-like trees and bushes. This is the home of the sifakas, also known as the dancing lemurs, because they put their front legs, or hands, up in the air when they walk up straight. It’s not hard to see where the Madagascar movies found their inspiration for their

To end this adventure, we venture into the bar afterwards

cheerfully dancing gang.

to sample the local rums. A large range of rum can be found in almost every lodge in Madagascar, preserved

The night’s falling does not immediately imply the end of

in big laboratory flasks and fragranced with the familiar

our safari. “Now is when it gets really interesting’, Kongo

Madagascar vanilla, cinnamon, lychee, and even mangoes!

says. After all, it is much easier to spot the very small

In fact, everything local and delicious can be found in a

lemurs at night, including the mouse and dwarf lemur,

bottle of rum here. It thus goes beyond saying that each

who are incredibly cute thanks to their mere 25 grams and

and every one is delightful.

eyes larger than their brains. Armed with just a flashlight we follow the guide’s trail through the bush and are immediately immersed in the nightlife of the jungle.

M A DAG AS C A R

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This alone makes travelling to Madagascar worthwhile!

After a full half our of climbing in the jungle, we hear the indris communicate between the treetops in the distance.

Their sound is similar to that of dolphins or whales who sing serenade each other with shrill, high notes. This chanting can easily be heard up to two kilometers away, so they may still be far.

But we are lucky: not much later, we literally find ourselves below a family of indris who are actively and loudly chatting with each other. At this proximity, the sound chills you to the bone, which renders this moment a memory to never forget.

We stay close for about half an hour, until my ears and neck become too tired to admire them any longer. The time has come to leave for the airport once again and fly to our final destination.

PAN DA- LEM U R The final lemur that we must check off the list is the indri.

The biggest lemur of all has been nicknamed ‘panda’ because of his white belly and black legs. It is also the most endangered species of all.

Indris cannot survive outside of their habitat in Madagascar.

All of the indri lemurs that were every taken off the island, eventually undertook a hunger strike and died. Compared to the other ring-tailed lemurs and even some sifakas, you will not be able to admire an indri anywhere else in the world.

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N OSY CO M BA The destination of our flight is Nosy Be (Big Island). Here, we take a small boat that brings us to Nosy Komba (Lemur Island) on the north-west coast of Madagascar.

The almost perfectly round island has a diameter of only 5 kilometers and contains no more than a dozen small beach houses and lodges. We are rounding up here in a National Geographic Unique Lodge: Tsara Komba. With only eight rooms, the focus here is ‘barefoot luxury’. The next couple of days, we no longer wear footwear and only enjoy the beautiful white beach and the amazing kitchen that combines the best of the Malagasy and the French cuisine: fish with vanilla, carpaccio of pineapple with rum liqueur and smoked swordfish, just to give a few examples.

The place to be to reminisce and look back on a magnificent safari through Madagascar.

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M A DAG AS C A R

NOSY BE ISLAND

M O N ATA G N E D ’A M B R E

TSINGY

ANDASIBE M A N TA D I A

M O R O N D A VA

ISALO N AT I O N A L PA R K

A N TA N A N A R I V O

TO L I A R A FORT DAUPHIN

PR AC TI C AL :

B E S T TI M E TO TR AVEL :

With Ethiopian Airlines, you can easily fly from Brussels to

Madagascar has a long dry season and is sublime to visit

Antanarivo multiple times per week. You can also choose

from April until December. During this time, the conditions

to fly back home with them from Nosy Be, which spares

are ideal for walking, diving, and spotting lemurs!

you from having to book an extra night in the capital, if you were to decide to end your trip at the beach in the far north

BOO K I N G YO U R TR I P :

of Madagascar. There are no mandatory vaccinations, only a valid passport for at least another 6 months, and a visa which you will be handed at the airport.

Madagascar has been part of the portfolio of Atelier Africa Safaris for quite a while, and we also went to explore here ourselves multiple times.

With our local connections, personal experiences, and feedback of everyone who has visited Madagascar through us, we would love to create your tailor-made Madagascar trip!

M A DAG AS C A R

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WAT WORDT JOUW VOLGENDE BESTEMMING?

Atelier Africa Safaris is happy to guide you in planning the ultimate journey through these countries www.atelier-africa.com

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M A DAG AS C A R

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ZAMBIA

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CHASING THE SUNSET IN ZAMBIA

ZAMBIA The nature is untouched, the wild animals numerous, and the lodges both surprising and luxurious.

Welcome in South-Luangwa, one of the few places on earth where you count leopards instead of sheep to fall asleep.

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ZAMBIA

Five days in one national park? The average traveler might

of the park’, my guide Patrick claims while we drive to the

deem it too long. Nothing, however, could be further from

camp. I strongly doubt that, but his enthusiasm concerning

the truth in the Zambian South-Luangwa, where every day

the leopard population does put me in a true safari mood.

comes as a gift.

This place can easily compete with the Massai Mara in Kenia or Serengeti in Tanzania in terms of fauna and flora, but without the mass tourism.

Your chances of spotting a lion during a morning safari are higher than those of encountering a fellow tourist. Because of this, South-Luangwa is a delightful haven of peace, yet one where you can be surprised at any time.

The total area of the park covers about 9,000 square kilometers. My first stop is Kaingo Camp, which can be freely translated as ‘leopard lodge’, a name that couldn’t be more fitting. ‘More leopards than giraffes live in this part

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M O R E L E O PA R D S T H A N GIRAFFES LIVE IN THIS PA RT O F T H E PA R K .

T H E R E ’ S N O P L AC E LI K E HOME Kaingo Camp was founded in 1992 by Derek and Jules Shenton, a couple that values the sense of family highly.

Upon your arrival, you are named and shamed right away.

Before you know it, you’re admiring the beautiful pictures of Jules on the lobby walls while holding a homemade cocktail.

The corresponding stories are included free of charge. This once again proves that a home is not a physical place, but a feeling that strikes you once you set foot somewhere where every detail feels just right.

It’s almost a shame that a little later the guide makes it clear that it’s time for my first Zambian safari. ‘What’s on your

A D R E N A L I N E L E V E L TO TH E MA X

wish list?’, photography enthusiast and guide Patrick asks me while I climb into the big 4x4. Fortunately, I seem to be an easy customer: leopards can be found here virtually

He has only just uttered the words when we see about four

everywhere, and lions can easily be spotted in the river area

lionesses forming a formation. ‘I think we got a hit’, Patrick

during this time of year. ‘During the migration months is

whispers with a twinkle in his eyes. Even after more than

when it gets the busiest around here, but the dry season is

fifteen years of experience as a guide, his enthusiasm hasn’t

actually my favorite time of the year’, Patrick reveals. The

worn off. He parks the car strategically, turns of the engine

reason? ‘The vegetation is gone completely, which makes

and we wait in silence together. With a watchful gaze the

all the animals gather around the river. And because the

lionesses come our way. The animals are fully focused on

prey animals are weakened by the lack of food, chances

the ignorant warthog about 100 meters away. The tension

are high that you get to witness some action.’

too much, all the more because the lionesses pass right by our vehicle.

‘What if they suddenly realize that I am a much fatter, slower, and easier prey?’ is what flashes through my mind when I meet the hungry eyes of one of the four hunting animals. ‘That chance is virtually non-existent’, Patrick whispers to reassure me when he sees the panic in my eyes. At the last minute, the lionesses decide to let the prey slip. A shame, even though I suspect that my adrenaline level had maxed out already.

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BETTER THAN THE LION KING Meanwhile, the spotless blue daytime sky is turning light orang. This can only mean one thing: time for the sundowner. Patrick sets course towards the river. There, a scene straight out of ‘The Lion King’ is unravelling. A hippo is taking his time to walk past the riverbanks, perfectly lit by the final sunbeams of the day. The clouds are painted a beautiful pink, just like the local gin and tonic that Patrick pours me. It doesn’t take long for my thoughts to become

M O R N I N G WALK

drenched in a similar pinky optimism. This park has already stolen my heart on day one.

The next morning, I move to Mwamba Bush Camp, Kaingo Camps smaller sister. ‘Mwamba’ can be translated as ‘sky’, which in its turn refers to the open roofs of the cabins in which you sleep. Here, you literally sleep underneath the stars. It doesn’t get more romantic than this.

The 4x4 is not taking us to the camp, only our luggage. ‘We go by foot, on a walking safari’, Patrick announces.

Walking safaris are one of the many things that make South-Luangwa unique. The idea is simple: accompanied by a guide, you walk into the park. It sounds a bit terrifying, but in reality, it’s just a healthy dose of excitement. ‘As long as you do as I say, you are perfectly safe’, thus guide Patrick.

Easier said than done, because I do have to suppress the urge to run when encounter a herd of about 200 curious buffalos later on. An impressive experience, which is exactly what I’m looking for as a traveling millennial.

AS LONG AS YOU DO A S I S A Y, Y O U A R E P E R F E C T LY S A F E .

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O N E WITH NATU R E In terms of set-up, Mwamba Bush Camp is a little smaller

to ask whether you would like something to eat or drink.

and a bit more sober than Kaingo Camp, which also makes

This kind of service does not exist in the average western

it a bit more affordable. The camp does have one big selling

café. Besides, the hideout in the camp is not one of a kind:

point: a personal hideout at the riverbank, just 100 meters

the Shenton family owns three of them in total.

walking distance from the lobby. You could easily spend an entire day in that camouflaged hut.

‘To us, a safari means studying the animals in the park in their natural habitat, without disturbing them for even a

The wild animals take turns drinking, showering, and

moment. Patient observation is key, even though this is

messing around at not even ten meters away, which almost

not always met with enthusiasm. Many tourists desire that

makes you feel like you are one of them. During barely

we are able to predict the animals or that we can elicit a

one hour, I am blessed with the sight of a bathing baby

certain type of behavior. But that, of course, is not how it

elephant and one of the cutest zebras in the world. As if

works’, the management explains.

this isn’t enough, a staff member passes by every half hour

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G I R AFFE I N TH E LO B BY After that morning walk, I was firmly convinced that my trip could not become any better, until I arrived at destination number three: Kakuli. The rooms are incredibly large, beautifully decorated, and open at the side that looks out over the river. You shower, sleep, and relax while overlooking the life surrounding the water. Relaxing and exciting at the same time. Shortly after, I hear turmoil in the lobby. A herd of elephants, including youngsters, is paddling in the water just a few meters from the terrace. The setting is complete when a giraffe also appears right in front of us, while the bar staff is offering me a delicious, freshly baked piece of cake. This tastes like pure bliss.

B E YO N D AMA ZEM ENT The lodges of Kakuli are located on the riverbank. During the rainy season, they also organize boat safaris, but I’m visiting a little too early for that. I am appointed two rangers during my stay: the ever-friendly James and Friday. They maneuver me time and again to the most desolate places.

I’m not sure what’s happening to me when the car stops at what looks a lot like an improvised bar. My suspicions prove correct: the crew has planted little chairs, a table, snacks, and a true stock of drinks here in no time. While the sun is starting its daily spectacle, I am already happily sipping my cocktail again. I could get used to this.

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SU PER L ATIVE D EG R EE The following day, however, it’s already time to move on to the last location. In my case, this means a two-day stay in the impressive Chinzombo, that easily eliminates all competition in terms of luxury. The lodge is located on the other side of the Luangwa River and can only be reached by boat, which obviously contributes to the Hollywood-like feeling that won’t go away for another two days.

The rooms here aren’t big, they’re insanely big. The interior isn’t just stylish, but insanely stylish. This is the kind of place where you smile politely and friendly at the fellow guests and staff, but where you also dance of joy the moment they are no longer in sight. The units are equipped with Wi-Fi, hairdryers, and air-conditioning, but this is in fact not even important.

gliding away. Still, you don’t necessarily need to stay glued to your chair here: you can arrange safari activities à la carte with the present staff.

As I feel a little decadent after a full day of doing nothing, I decide to venture out on one last safari. One hour later, I stand face-to-face with an adult leopard and her cub. The little animal frolics merrily while the mother observes vigilantly. Seasoned nature photographers often have to cruise through the park for days to be able to witness this, while I stumble upon this almost by accident. I couldn’t have imagined a better trip.

Even without this western pampering, this place is one of a kind. Chinzombo is located right next to the entrance of

It is therefore with regret that I climb into the jeep towards

the park, which makes it the perfect place to unwind after

the exit the next day. If anyone were to ask me what I would

experiencing the hectic safari rhythm. If you like to sleep

like to do if I had only one more day to live, I would like to

in, book a spa treatment, or just like to read a book on your

return to this park, its magical lodges, and the ever-perfect

terrace, let this be the place where you do so. The peace

sunsets. But until then, I will mostly continue to reminisce

here is so overwhelming that you can literally feel the stress

about these precious memories.

ZAMBIA

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ZAMBIA

BANGWEULU WETLANDS

KAFUE

NORTH L U A N G WA

L I U WA P L A I N N AT I O N A L PA R K

SOUTH L U A N G WA

LOWER ZAMBEZI V I C TO R I A FA L L S

PRACTICAL:

BEST TIME TO TRAVEL :

The Republic of Zambia, perhaps still known as Northern

The dry months in Zambia take place from April until the

Rhodesia to some, has been independent since 1964 and is

end of October. From December to March, you can still do

mostly visited for its beautiful safari parks and the seventh

quite a lot, but the Zambezi River’s water level is usually

wonder of the world: the Victoria Falls.

too high to be able to do a safari on the riverbanks. The most popular period is from July until October, when the

While the country is top-notch in terms of safari experience,

bush gets very dry, and it is sublime to spot all the action

there still aren’t a lot of lodges and camps in and around

around a waterhole or next to the river! But even during the

the parks, which still makes it a very exclusive and authentic

remainder of the year, Zambia is spectacular to visit and

safari destination. The roads in Zambia aren’t very great

definitely worthwhile for every Africa-lover.

either, so flying from park to park is recommended. Apart from a walking safari in South Luangwa, a visit to the Lower Zambezi, where you can do a safari by boat or kayak, is an

BOOKI NG YOUR T RI P :

absolute must-do!

Atelier Africa Safaris has, thanks to their base in Namibia, over 15 years of experience in travelling through Zambia.

The Zambezi River, the South Luangwa Park, the Victoria Falls, and Livingstone hold no more secrets for us.

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R WA N D A

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rwandair.com

Indulge in world class comfort With full flat beds in Business Class Airbus A330

+32 (0)2 669 8268 sales.brussels@rwandair.com

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R WA N D A

50

T O U C H I N G LY BEAUTIFUL

R WA N D A What’s the first thing you think of when someone says ‘Rwanda’? Chances are that your answer will be ‘gorilla’. And/or genocide. And no one will blame you for that, especially not the Rwandans. Today, however, the small country has put itself on the tourism world map and is slowly becoming the newest luxurious hotspot of Sub-Saharan Africa.

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To put in the cheesiest way possible: the first introduction

practice.. In fact, Rwanda is almost obsessed with tidiness

to Rwanda blows you away, no matter what your share of

and ecology. Plastic has been banned here for nearly ten

Africa experience might be. This is because of a number of

years and the government selects private companies

remarkable reasons. Rwanda is often called the Switzerland

through public procurements who are responsible for

of Africa for good reason. Not in terms of banks, watches,

the cleanliness in the capital. They take care of garbage

or cheese, bet in terms of cleanliness. “You will have to look

collection and processing both industrial and street waste

very hard to find a piece of paper on the ground here”,

in the city and region.

Salim my driver says while leaving the airport parking.

I cannot get used to this thoroughness along the way. Never We have a four-hour drive ahead of us, so plenty of time to

before have I visited an African country like Rwanda. It is

immerse myself in some Rwanda facts. According to Salim,

so raked, tidy, and clean here. For example, scooter taxis

‘safe, friendly, and clean’ are the key terms here, the golden

that are neatly waiting in line at their parking spot, every

triangle that the popular president Paul Kagame (the man

driver carrying an extra helmet for the passenger (only 1!).

who was elected in 2000 with 95 percent of the votes and who is currently in his third term of office) put into

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52

And Rwanda’s figurative mille collines, the thousand hills

Kigali soon lays behind us and through the window of the

with their tea plantations, look like they have been brushed

moss green Toyata Landcruiser I know see red soil and

by landscape architects. Of course, I also see typical African

bright green banana trees, teenagers with yellow jerry cans

scenes.

on their head, Dutch cows, men in a white suit with a hoe over their shoulder and waving children who yell “Mzungu!”

Loaded bikes (the bicycle seems mistaken for a small van),

at you (literally: ‘wanderer’, actually: ‘white human’).

carelessly honking traffic (yet no craziness on the road, rather for safety reasons, so that children would notice the

The air smells like dust and tropical flowers, along the road

cars), women dressed in eclectic colors with half a forest

I see countless waste bins and we swish over tarmac roads

of felled wood on their head, forever commuting to God

without holes and cracks. This is absolutely not the norm

knows where.

in many African countries south of the Sahara, but it does feel like it in small Rwanda, sandwiched by Congo, Uganda, and Tanzania.

S A F E , F R I E N D LY, & C L E A N ARE THE KEY TERMS HERE

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TH E B I G FIVE PR E S ENT One of the biggest misunderstandings about Rwanda is that it is not a safari country in the traditional sense. The whole world knows the endangered mountain gorilllas – the celebrities that can also be found in Uganda and East-Congo – on the volcanic slopes in the north.

Only few people know that you can also find a savannah in the east, where the big five are present: lion, leopard, buffalo, rhino, and elephant. Akagera National Park, the wooden sign says, and I am awaited here at the North Gate

by Hein, a smiley South-African ranger of the Magashi Camp that opened in 2019. Small (there are only six luxury tents) but amid all the action. “Rwanda offers foggy volcanoes, lakes, tea plantations, and rainforest, but until recently had a lack of traditional safari experiences”, Hein explains.

“That’s why the government together with nature organization African Parks brought the big five back into the country, in Akagera National Park, close to the border with Tanzania. A very authentic place for these animals.

They put an electric fence into place, trained forest rangers, and reintroduced lions, elephants, and rhinos. Besides, the latter animal is much rarer than the mountain gorilla… And it doesn’t cost you 1500 dollar to see one (laughs).”

I find myself in the open Toyota of Hein and we cruise through the park. He’s having a bad day. This morning, he had a flat tire (it took him only seven minutes to replace it), and right before noon one wheel ended up in a deep hole and the off-road car had to be jacked up.

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“The government monitors every important animal with

On a high hill 1850 meters above sea level with a

transmitters, sends patrols (rhinos are being slaughtered

magnificent view, we enjoy our gin and tonic, after which

illegally worldwide and literally need to be protected from

we follow a group of thirteen lions when they leave to hunt

poachers), and at a later stage every visitor will be mapped

at dusk. Luckily, Hein brought blankets along, because

out as well”, Hein explains. “In short, they are even better

Rwanda does cool off fiercely after sunset, especially in an

organized here than the Swiss (laughs). That’s why we are

open four-wheeler.

currently the most talked-about safari destination.

My first day didn’t bring about a lot of enthusiasm. If you like to see a lot of animals quickly, you should go on safari elsewhere, I believe. But after a cozy drink with the other

T H AT ’ S W H Y W E A R E

guests around the fire, a nice dinner and a chilly night in

C U R R E N T LY T H E M O S T

my luxury tent (with heating pad), I tack back those words the next morning. Akagera might still be in the making quantitively speaking, the park does offer a lot of variety.

A boat takes us past hippos, crocodiles, and reed belts full

TA L K E D - A B O U T S A FA R I D E S T I N AT I O N

of water birds, but a 4x4 also drives us to vast plains with acai trees filled with zebras and impalas.

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L AK E S AN D VO LC AN O E S

The idyllic Kivu Lake is one the lakes – and the eye-catcher – in what is called the Great Lakes Region of Africa. Its features are equally unique and reviled. The Kivu Lake

We leave early in the morning, my guide Eddy told me

is in its current state young and relatively deep, up until

last night. He had come down to the desolate camp and

480 meters in some places, which makes it the fifteenth

planned to stay the night to be able to leave first thing

deepest lake in the world. At the beginning of this century,

in the morning after breakfast to the western corner of

large amounts of gasses were found underneath the lake, a

Rwanda: Rubavu at the Kivu Lake, close to the border with

minimum of 256 billion cubic meters of carbon dioxide and

Congo.

65 billion cubic meters of methane gas. The first gas creates a risk of limnic eruptions (an eruption in fresh water), that

“Then we’ll be there before dark”, Eddy’s strategy was.

could potentially kill the two million people living around

“Right away the most beautiful time of the day to oversee

the lake.

the lake.” There, it swings through mountains and valleys towards Congo. Eddy’s timing was perfect, because heavily

Rwanda has already built a small power station that uses

loaded trucks that climbed the mountains excruciatingly

the methane gas as fuel. But at the Congolese riverbank,

slow lowered our average speed significantly.

the Kivu Lake is also used by rebel groups as a tactical line of defense.

When the sky’s color becomes deep blue and daylight disappears rapidly – typical for the equator area – we arrive

The local Serena Hotel – call it the best in town – has

at the public beach of the village, which overlooks 2700

everything, except for contemporary charm. But it does

square kilometers of water at 1460 meters above sea level.

have a frontal view of the lake, where locals come to swim and play soccer on the beach.

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IT SWINGS THROUGH M O U N T A I N S A N D VA L L E Y S T O WA R D S C O N G O

J U N G LE AN D C APE WI N E Having breakfast while the morning fog slowly lifts above the lake, the wind chill rises nicely, and the volcano slowly becomes visible again at the horizon… There’s something to it. Rwanda’s ‘something’ mostly is ‘something different’.

Not the savannah of Kenia, the desert of Namibia, or the wetlands of Botswana. But more humid, cooler, greener, and more mountainous.

Next, we move to the south, to the steamy Nyungwe rainforest. Eddy drives the Toyota through the hilly landscape in a thousand shades of green: banana plantations, rice fields, tea plantations, eucalyptus trees.

The lake mirrors cobalt blue in the bright midday sun.

A three-headed, drumming little orchestra welcomes me in the One & Only Nyungwe House, the youngest member of the renowned hotel group that recently had her eye on this active tea plantation in Gisakura and turned it into an upscale hotel.

I’m having lunch on the panoramic terrace while the last couple of low clouds, heated by the bright sun, evaporate from the jungle. “Another glass of Cape sauvignon blanc?”, the waiter whispers. I answer with a resounding yes. This afternoon is all about rest, the heated pool looks inviting, and I intend to go to bed early tonight. Because tomorrow, the day not only starts very early, but it’s supposed to be the best day of the trip.

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TH EN TH E Y WER E 4 0 0 The most important reason for travelers to Rwanda to

Anyway, one good turn deserves another: who wants to

come down to this south-west corner of the country, are

bake cake, needs to break eggs..

the chimpanzees. A short explanation: the world-famous mountain gorillas find themselves in the north of the

After a 75-minute drive, Eddy drives the car on a long-

country. Since the number of guests that is allowed to

stretched, unpaved road. Right across the Nyungwe

visit them is limited to 80 – maximum 100 – per day, and

National Park, the largest classic rainforest in Central-Africa.

demand exceeds supply, the price was raised to 1500

Six rangers pop up out of nowhere, dressed in a simple,

American dollar per person. For your information: at the

green uniform and equipped with black rubber boots. They

other side of the border in Virunga Park (Congo) the price

look more like car wash employees but are, nevertheless,

is 400 dollars, and Uganda remains at 700 dollars.

our guides.

The chimpanzees are a worthy alternative. Admittedly a

A short briefing, a quick energy bar, a stick for everyone

little less spectacular and less close to you, but in a similar

to hold (to avoid falling on the slippery surface) and

style for a fraction of the price. Hence my 4 o’clock alarm

we’re ready to go. The system is well thought-out. The

in the morning, after which I find myself in the four-wheeler

chimpanzees are permanently monitored by a ranger, who

after coffee and cake.

passes on their location via phone to the departing group.

By doing so, the guides can choose the shortest route

The staff has provided me with extra tight leg protection.

without having to make the hike too long and intense. It

“Better safe than sorry. Ants dare to spoil the fun, because

takes us about an hour to eventually hear the shrill yelling

they can bite viciously”, Eddy laughs. This, our small group

of this African great ape announcing our arrival.

of eight will experience firsthand later on.

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There they are, the closest living relatives of humans. With their big ears, long arms (that can reach a wingspan of three meters), and tailless back. “The DNA of a chimpanzee matches for 98.5 percent with that of humans”, the head ranger explains. “This makes them even more closely related to humans than to gorillas.

They are almost as big as humans, but far lighter and a

WAT C H I N G T H E M H E R E I N T H E I R N AT U R A L H A B I T AT C A N N O T B E C O M PA R E D T O A N Y T H I N G

little less smart. They are stronger, can climb much better, but prefer to stay on the ground. Finally: chimpanzee can recognize themselves in the mirror. They also walk up straight, but not for a whole kilometer.” According to the

What an adventure! You can go observe your brothers

guide, there are about 400 left of them (depending on

and sisters in the zoo one hundred times but watching

the source this number can be doubled) in this part of the

them here in their natural habitat cannot be compared to

world, divided over Rwanda, Congo, and Burundi.

anything.

We stick around for half an hour to observe them in silence.

The amazing day is ended in style with a local dance group

I wonder: is he half human or am I half animal? Until the

during our pre-dinner drink and a barbecue in the boma

rangers signal that it is time to wander away. Slipping and

– the local forest camp. And while the guests taste their

wet because of our sweat due to walking on small, just

glass of wine, little monkeys nestle unabashedly on top of

rained upon forest paths that have only dried up halfway,

the tea leaves and accompany us. It’s the same as with the

we reach the jeeps again just before noon.

chimpanzees: one big family.

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N E VER AGAI N No trip to Rwanda is complete without a confrontation with the genocide. To many, the country is still inextricably linked to the bloody spring of 1994, when more than 800.000 people died during this organized massacre. This, by the way, is the official number. Other estimations go up to one million: bodies are still found every week.

Talking politics is not always easy in Rwanda – you always touch upon Tutsi and Hutu sensitivities – but you immediately create an atmosphere in which the folks in the street always praise the president, the charismatic leader who offers them safety and (almost) free education and healthcare.

At first you may think: this cannot be true. It smells like propaganda; the people are being paid by the PR department of President Paul Kagame. “Rwanda is just different than the rest of Africa”, Eddy says discretely. “The government checks my insurance papers, my activities, and the state of my vehicle four times per year. This is unimaginable in the countries surrounding us. We feel a joint responsibility, you know. If we continue in this way, we can accomplish many things.”

It was Paul Kagame, leader of the rebellion at the time, who called upon all the survivors after 1994 (the genocide is used as a marker of time here, everything happens ‘before’ or ‘after’) to make another sacrifice. He claimed that you could not continue to hate your neighbor. The genocide explains the extreme speed, but Rwanda has always been an orderly country. Already in the 19th century, explorers were amazed by the strictly organized little kingdom.

Even today, politicians from all over the world come here to watch the Rwandans clean up their neighborhood on the last Saturday of the month. Or repairing the roof of the school. This Umaganda tradition is obligatory: whoever doesn’t show, risks a good chat with the neighborhood leader, or a fine. The result is not hard to guess.

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K I GALI R ENAIS SAN C E Most travelers skip the capital Kigali. And that’s a shame.

The metropole where no one eats, drinks, or smokes on the street, plastic bags have been banned since 2008, and twice a month a car-free Sunday takes place, is more than worthwhile visiting. Eddy drops me off at the Hôtel des Mille Collines, a former Sabena hotel built in 1973, mostly known from the movie Hotel Rwanda that was filmed here.

In the midst of the genocide, the hotel pool used to be the only source of water for 1268 refugees who found (paid) shelter here, protected by the staff and he reputation of the hotel, which functioned as a kind of embassy. No matter how impressive the history here, the hotel itself is yellowed and outdated.

A better stay can be found at The Retreat, a fancy boutique hotel with a restaurant and a pool in the heart of the residential district, where my bed for the last night is located. The American owners, Alissa and Josh, once working in the healthcare field, are competing against the rising hotel chains with their twelve rooms and eight villas.

I do indeed not feel like I’m in a hotel when I’m having a candlelight dinner at night next to the pool; it rather feels as though I’m visiting friends.

When I went for another walk before dinner, I noticed it once again: every one hundred meters, a recycling bin can be found here. Or, as Eddy says the next morning while saying goodbye in the airport building of Kigali that is way too small: “Rwanda is cleaner than most western countries!”.

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R WA N D A P A R K N AT I O N A L

AKAGERA

DES VOLCANES

N AT I O N A L P A R K

LAC KIVU

KIGALI

NYUNGWE FOREST

PRACTICAL:

at the end of September and lasts until the second half of December. The months in between are considered the

The Republic of Rwanda is a small country (26,338 m2)

dry season, with July and August being the driest in most

in East-Africa and borders Congo-Kinshasa, Uganda,

places. In the capital Kigali, only 7 millimeters of rain is

Tanzania, and Burundi. The country has no coastline and

registered for an entire month.

lies a few degrees south of the equator. The hilly landscape of Rwanda is covered with meadows and small farms. In the north-west, a volcanic area can be found, from which a mountain ridge stretches in the south-east direction.

BOOKI NG YOUR TRI P :

Mount Karisimbi is with its height of 4507 meters the highest mountain of the country. About 93 percent of the

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population is Christian.

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B E ST TIM E TO TR AVEL :

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The first wet season starts in February and lusts until the end of May. The second rain season is less intense and starts

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64 Afgebeeld

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AT E L I E R A F R I C A S A FA R I S

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