AFRIKA 1 | The Wildest Travel Stories | Tanzania - Congo - South Africa - Botswana

TA N Z A N I A

CONGO

SOUTH AFRICA

B O T S WA N A

Going out with the Masai and

Gorilla spotting in Virunga, the

Discover the most exclusive

Get lost with a canoe between the

tasting the Serengeti

oldest park in Africa.

luxury safari lodges around the

elephants deep in the Okavango

Kruger Park

delta

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AT E L I E R A F R I C A S A FA R I S

NAMIBIA AT E L I E R A F R I C A S A FA R I S

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DEAR TR AVELER, Karibu! Welcome to AFRICA, the wildest travel stories.

COLOFON PUBLISHER Atelier Africa Safaris info@atelier-africa.com www.atelier-africa.com

Atelier Africa Safaris, founded in 2012, has

“AFRICA, the wildest travel stories” will become

grown over the years to become the main

an annual source of inspiration for all journeys

reference for pure trips to Southern and East

to South and East Africa, our natural habitat

Africa. By combining our passion for Africa

that we have been traveling intensively for

and years of experience in the tourism industry

over 15 years and where we still discover new

in different corners of the continent with a

gems. In every edition of AFRICA you will find

personal, professional and creative approach,

at least four long detailed travel reports. This

we created a tailor-made solution that meets

magazine is not here to overwhelm you with

the needs of today’s travellers who are always

all kinds of promotions. On the contrary, it only

looking for added value.

wants to inform you in a pleasant way about the richness of beautiful Africa.

EDITORIAL BOARD Timothy Denys

And now we are launching “AFRICA, the

Michele Denys

Wildest Travel Stories”. This magazine

This magazine is there to make you dream, to

Kristof Vanderhoeven

is a concept that has been worked out

stimulate your senses with ‘experience’ as the

Arne Deprez

together with the various travel journalists

keyword, because pleasure is not prohibited! Of

and photographers who have been able to

course, all trips that you find in this magazine

discover beautiful pieces of Africa in recent

can be booked easily with Atelier Africa Safaris.

years through Atelier Africa. Why a magazine?

In this first issue we will take you to the oldest

Just as slow cooking is the new kitchen

park in Africa, Virunga in the Democratic

philosophy, we believe more than ever in this

Republic of Congo! We will also briefly fly into

DESIGN

historical communication tool. Because we are

the Okavango Delta, in Botswana. In South

Tigerous

convinced that we have to build a point of rest

Africa we will visit the three most exclusive

Glynn Denys

and revert back to printed paper that you can

luxury safari lodges around the Kruger Park.

info@tigerous.be

hold between your fingers, something that can

And in Tanzania, after a few days of walking

stand the test of time and you can pass on to

with the Masai, we will go on a safari in the

friends. It seems to us the most beautiful and

Ngorongoro Crater and the Serengeti.

EDITOR IN CHIEF Kosmonaut Arne Deprez info@studiokosmonaut.be

appropriate way to present the wildest travel stories along with the most beautiful photos to you.

We wish you a lot of reading pleasure, Michèle & Timo Denys Founders Atelier Africa Safaris

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AT E L I E R A F R I C A S A FA R I S

TANZANIA The most northern strip of Tanzania, on the border with Kenya and with the Kilimanjaro as a high supreme god, lies a magnificent setting for those who love vast safaris with a multitude of animals, but also want to taste authentic cultural experiences.

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CONGO Discover the vast Virunga National Park: tropical rain forests, volcanic mountains, buffaloes, hippos, elephants, lions and various monkeys. But above all it is known as one of the only places where mountain gorillas still exist. Go on an expedition and get face to face with these fascinating animals.

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AT E L I E R A F R I C A S A FA R I S

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SOUTH AFRICA Half of the time you will enjoy an eye-catching Afro-chic design villa with private swimming pool, while at sunrise and sunset you cruise with your private Land Rover through the jungle, gin and tonic in your hand. With the triangle combination Royal Malewane, Singita Sweni and Londolozi you will

BOTSWANA

experience the South African dream safari.

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Although located in the middle of the Kalahari desert, the Okavango delta in Botswana is home to a wide range of animal species due to annual flooding. That makes this area, declared Unesco World Heritage in June 2014, one of the most unique safari sites in Africa.

Atelier Africa specialises in African tours. And especially Africa trips to Namibia, Zimbabwe, Botswana, Congo, Kenya, Madagascar, Mozambique, Tanzania, Rwanda, Zambia, Zanzibar and South Africa. Why Africa? Because no continent offers a greater variety of natural beauty and travel experiences. You never get bored in Africa.

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AT E L I E R A F R I C A S A FA R I S

Atelier Africa specializes in African tours. And especially Africa trips to Namibia, Zimbabwe, Botswana, Congo, Kenya, Madagascar, Mozambique, Tanzania, Rwanda, Zambia, Zanzibar and South Africa. Why Africa? Because no continent has a greater variety of natural beauty and travel experiences to offer.

You never get bored in Africa.

LOVE FOR AFRICA

TAILOR MADE

Michèle and Timo De Nijs got to know each other in

Africa has so much to offer that you will soon be lost.

Namibia and have been travelling together in the African

Why get lost when you can be assisted by professionals

continent since 2010. Atelier Africa was initially the ideal

who know the ins & outs of the continent as well as their

way to share their travel stories and safari experiences with

own pockets? Michèle and Timo are both contact persons

others.

and point of contact as well as tour guides. They work together with the most magnificent lodges, the best guides

Over the years, Atelier Africa has grown into a professional

and the most reliable drivers. Do you want to see all your

tour operator with a love for and especially an expertise in

preferences united in a single safari?

Africa. Atelier Africa is now run from Namibia and Belgium.

LUXURY SAFARIS

PERSONALISED APPROACH

Safari means traveling in Swahili and owes its fame to none

Did you see a photo of a fantastic lodge in Zimbabwe

other than Ernest Hemingway. It was not until the American

somewhere? Or do you want to visit the Virunga National

writer returned after a three-month Africa trip with the

Park from that Netflix documentary? Let us know and

bestsellers The Green Hills of Africa and The Snows of the

we will create the perfect trip for you. No question is too

Kilimanjaro that the concept of ‘safari’ had been born.

difficult, no wish too crazy. In addition, we have personally tested every trip, lodge or travel experience. Only in this

Atelier Africa offers no less than six different types. From

way can we ensure optimum quality and reliability. Our offer

the fly-in safari to the bush & beach and wellness safari to

is therefore 100% safe and guaranteed to be unforgettable.

the golf safari, family safari and wedding trip safari.

Atelier Africa specialises in creating classic safaris in which

CONTACT US

contemporary comfort is linked to the most authentic experience possible.

Don’t know where to start or wondering whether your dream trip can be realised at all? Contact us via our website.

Refresh yourself surrounded by African wildlife and

We are happy to talk to you and would love to take you to

untouched nature while enjoying maximum luxury and

the wonderful world of Africa.

comfort.

AT E L I E R A F R I C A S A FA R I S

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Michèle & Timo Denys Zaakvoerders Atelier Africa Safaris Foto: Karel Duerinckx

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AT E L I E R A F R I C A S A FA R I S

TA N Z A N I A W I L D AT H E A R T

The most northern strip of Tanzania, on the border with Kenya and with the Kilimanjaro as a high supreme god, lies a magnificent setting for those who love vast safaris with a multitude of animals, but also want to taste authentic cultural experiences. Jambo!

TA N Z A N I A

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TA N Z A N I A

KARIBU, KARIBU! HELLO, SIR. HABARI GANI? HOW ARE YOU? There are normal days, and there are African days.

It’s a mixed feeling. On the one hand, I feel like the white

Yesterday I landed in complete darkness at Kilimanjaro

colonial who visits a village and ends up in predictable

Airport, where the Airbus of KLM condensed through the

popular entertainment. On the other hand, I am very curious

temperature difference, as it were.

to hang out with a tribe for 24 hours, to go into the forest, to share the campfire, spend the night in a boma (British

After a few fresh pints and a short night at the Moivaro

Officers Mess Area), a round, secure eating place with in the

Lodge next to the airport, I was sitting early this morning

middle a big campfire and to drink instant coffee together

in a degraded Land Cruiser on my way to the highest

with the chickens in the morning. “Supai molelian, supai

mountain in Africa: the Kilimanjaro. In the morning gray it

molelian,” Kimani shouts. “The head of the village welcomes

doesn’t show its face yet, but nothing is what it seems: like

you”, the driver translates. We approach noon and the sun

a big ghost it lurks around the corner. The mountain lies

rises very high above the horizon. Together with the chef

more than five kilometres above its surroundings and is

- although he prefers not to use that word himself - I go

therefore the highest free-standing mountain in the world.

through the program.

I am on my way to Olpopongi, a Masai village at the foot of the mountain, in the middle of nowhere. The traffic is

After lunch we move into the plains. Tonight there will

bad, as is the case everywhere in Central Africa. Motors,

be dancing and after the meal we will settle around the

trucks, jeeps, dogs, cows and goats, every inch is being

campfire: for stories and fresh beers that are appropriately

fought over.

called Kilimanjaro Premium Lager and Serengeti Lager. Beer

But under the motto that good cars are only driven by

is big business in Tanzania; it is by far the national drink.

good drivers, I ignore the chaos pragmatically.

The standard bottle is half a litre.

TA N Z A N I A

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LISTENING LANDSCAPE

TO

THE

No sooner said than done. We walk through the bushes for hours, keep us busy with archery and study the rich flora. After the chicken on the grill with a portion of fried rice and vegetable pancakes, the room Nyumbu (literally: wildebeest) is assigned to me for the night. Luxury aficionados please refrain! This is a mud hut built by local women, without electricity, water or any other amenities.

Some encapsulated air holes, a hardened extracted soil for a fire in the winter maybe and a wooden bed with an arm-like straw bag: these are the only facilities. Genius in its simplicity. It was built by Oma, the 93-year-old village head, in a previous life as engineer. With a final premium lager I rinse away the first warm and especially dusty day, while enjoying the starry sky, the fire ... and dreaming of a shower. The university of life is open.

NO SHOW, BUT EDUCATION Nothing as delicious in the morning as a breakfast of the jungle, with hot coffee in high jugs and a freshly lit campfire as a comrade. I am exchanging ideas with the village head Kimani about the thin line between honourable cultural tourism and flat commercial violence. “Our tribe has long played with the idea of making our culture public,” he explains. “But we spent years discussing how we would do that. Eventually, this guest village with nine cabins became the compromise, especially to centralise tourism. Because if you don’t organise it yourself as a tribe, you get far too much à la carte visits, in the long run an untenable situation: sometimes people are well received, sometimes not at all.

Now there is structure, with the added plus that we transfer the limited yields directly to the community. Especially our school is benefiting. Moreover, we have now created a basis for preserving communication about our rich cultural Maasai heritage. It was a difficult balancing act, but we are satisfied.”

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TA N Z A N I A

THE FUTURE IS NOW

ALL CRITTERS

The Masai (also spelled Maasai or Massai) is the name given

In Arusha, a metropolis of 750,000 inhabitants, exactly

to a largely nomadic people in East Africa, mainly living in

halfway between Cairo and Cape Town, I switch vehicles.

Kenya and Tanzania.

Arusha lies on the plateau of the Great Rift Valley, at the foot of the Meruberg and between the Serengeti Plain, the

The total population of the Masai is estimated at 900,000,

Ngorongoro Crater, the Lake Manyara, the Olduvaikloof

half of which lives in Kenya. Exact data is not available since

and the Kilimanjaro National Park: it is the ideal base for

there are no accurate censuses taking place, but above all:

safaris. My new driver and guide is Richard, a tall guy with

they do not have national borders. The Maasai succeeded,

a generous smile. We go over the program for the next five

despite the growing modern civilization, to preserve their

days and all looks great. “You don’t want to know what’s

age-old traditions.

awaiting you,” Richard laughs. “But it will be worth it!” The degraded off-road vehicle has now been exchanged for

For various reasons, however, this traditional way of life is

a new Toyota, including a folding observation roof. And

under strong pressure in 2017. For example, the government

spacious captain seats, wonderful. But we’re on the road

of Kenya wants to take parts of their pasture for cattle to

for less than an hour, and things are already starting to go

add it to their national parks like Serengeti and Masai Mara.

wrong.

Cattle is indispensable for the Masai. They eat the meat, drink the blood and the milk, and use the skins for houses.

And from the bones they produce tools and combs.

“This village indirectly involved several hundred Masai,” Kimani explains. “It secures our past and gives us a fair future. Ashanti! Thank you for your visit.”

TA N Z A N I A

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HAKUNA MATATA ‘NO WORRIES’

Richard wants to make some obligatory stops along the showing souvenir shops. I first asked him in a friendly manner, and when he didn’t seem to listen, I firmly let him

WORLD WONDER AT YOUR FEET

know that this is not my idea of a trip through Tanzania. With lips that are showing an emotion

In the universe it is carnival every day and in Tanzania it’s

of anger and a look that screams dismay,

refreshingly chilly every morning. It is late autumn - the

he crawls deeper and deeper behind his wheel. I decide

ideal period for this type of tour - but it also has to do

to leave it for now and talk to him about it tonight. Today

with being at 2450 metres altitude. Today we visit the

we visit Park Lake Manyara; a warm-up, as it were, but not

Ngorongoro Crater, an area of immense beauty. Imagine

any less beautiful. This is one of the small parks, especially

that the Kilimanjaro mountain would implode - well, this is

known for the flamingos and the monkeys. Both appear to

what you would get: an intact caldera or collapsed volcanic

be massively present. Late in the afternoon we reach the

cone. It is the largest in the world.

Bougainvillea Lodge, a collection of chalets surrounded by hibiscus flowers where an army of staff is hastily running

This one probably originated two million years ago from a

around. After the rice meal, I speak to Richard about the

volcano that must have been about five kilometres high. The

shopping incident. He tells me honestly that he receives

crater has a diameter of twenty kilometres and the crater

a loyalty point on a loyalty card for every stop. For ten

bottom has a surface of approx. 260 square kilometres. The

points he receives a gift that he passes on to the local

edge of the crater is about six hundred metres above the

village school.

crater bottom. This creates different climate zones within.

We make a compromise: he can visit one shop a day as

In the middle - almost a kind of stage - there is a dazzling

of tomorrow, I wouldn’t want to be the bogey man either.

salt lake.

From one moment to the next he brightens up. For the first

Before descending downwards with the off-road vehicle,

time I hear ‘Hakuna matata’ - or: ‘No problem’ - coming

we have a stylish lunch at the Ngorongoro Crater Lodge,

from his mouth. And it will not be the last time.

an eclectic little place with chandeliers and a wide view of the natural phenomenon. I settle in the temporary luxury of the birds of paradise and enjoy the moment in silence. “And ... there are still exceptional characteristics,” Richard tells me, while I sip a glass of delicious South African sauvignon blanc. “The high and steep crater wall largely shields the area against the accidental migration of other animals.

The lion population therefore exhibits a strong inbreeding.

Because the Masai is also between this crater population and the other population, both species cannot meet. Herd animals, such as wildebeest, can however. The result: a cut-off population of an estimated 25,000 larger mammals lives inside the crater. This makes it one of the most densely populated wildlife areas in the world.”

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TA N Z A N I A

DOWN, SI R We send our Toyota down the rough, unpaved road. At the

for two nights. While the sun dips beneath the horizon

same time the temperature rises, and the wind decreases.

and the gas lamps are lit in the camp, I take a shower.

The Ngorongoro crater was part of the Serengeti nature

Finally. Afterwards I fraternise around a big fire in the boma

reserve since its inception in 1951, but in 1959 it became

with the other guests, all like-minded people who are still

an independent nature reserve. Since 1979 the crater has

enjoying the unique decor.

been on the Unesco World Heritage list. A few hours later I saw what Richard told me this afternoon. Almost all large African animals live in the crater: zebras, wildebeests, black rhinos, elephants, lions, cheetahs, and masses of hippos.

A notable absentee is the giraffe: their long neck and long legs have prevented them from making the steep descent

FOR ME, BEING IN A

to the bottom of the crater. “Crocodiles, impalas, lyre

PA R K I S L I K E B E I N G

antelopes and oribi’s are not found in the crater,” Richard clarifies. Just before sunset, after a spectacular ride, we enter the Ndutu Lodge. We will be here, on the edge of Serengeti,

TA N Z A N I A

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IN THE EDEN

FLIRTING WITH THE BORDER We spend the next two days on true safari work. That

But the region is mainly known for the migration that takes

means: touring, stopping a lot, observing. Safari therefore

place every year around October. In addition, about one and

means ‘journey’ in Swahili. I switch into ‘slow’ mode and try

a half million herbivores move from the northern hills to the

to live to the rhythm of the jungle. Don’t worry about what

southern plains because of the drought.

you’d like to see, but be happy with what you’re served.

To do so, they have to cross the Mara River, and that’s guaranteed to be a spectacle. For the crocodiles, it’s an

Nesting in the silence. Like Karen Blixen - the Danish author

unmissable annual party. After the rains around the month

of ‘Out of Africa’ who stayed in Kenya for years and ran

of April, the groups will return via a western detour. But

a plantation - once wrote: “For me, being in a park is like

because I’m late in the season, I keep it for a next trip. So

being in Eden... The air of the African highlands rose to my

we choose the outers, which is no less interesting according

head like wine, I was slightly drunk all the time, and the joy

to Richard.

of that period was indescribable...” We flirt continuously

But we’re being served a real stunt at the lodge in the

with the border of the Serengeti, probably the most famous

evening. While we’re all enjoying a gin and tonic around

park in Tanzania. The name is derived from the Masai

the fire, suddenly hell breaks loose. Four buffaloes, chased

language (Siringet), and literally means “Endless plains”, a

by two lions, storm through the lodge’s garden. Glasses

region of savannas and forest landscapes spread over the

crash into the ground, and under the hellish noise of the

north of Tanzania and the south of Kenya.

game that’s being played in front of us, we flee inside.

Immediately there is a curfew for all guests. Extra fires are

The total surface area is 30,000 square kilometres, 80

lit and guards are summoned. Whoever wants to go to his

percent of which are located in Tanzania. Around 1.6 million

room gets an armed escort. “I don’t trust this,” the New

herbivores and thousands of predators live in the area.

Zealand owner says. “We really have to be careful now.”

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TA N Z A N I A

AN ARMY OF ELEPHANTS I start the day with a small ritual. When the legendary explorer Henry Morton Stanley wandered through the dark jungle of eastern Congo - beset by diseases, wild beasts and hostile tribes - the man had the discipline to shave every morning. If necessary, with cold water and a dull knife. He survived the expedition, while eighty percent of his men died. Safe and sound - thank god - we left early in the morning from Ndutu, and now drive down a freshly rained down sandy road - short rain showers are pure poetry in Africa - to the tented camp of Moivaro. The Toyota lives up to its 4x4 reputation. The Hadzabe commune lives in Moivaro; it offers travellers the opportunity to hunt with them. I don’t really know what to think of it, and the confusion becomes even greater when, the following morning, after a wonderful night in a waving tent on the Eyasi lake, I am ridden deep into the forest at sunrise and suddenly come face to face with two bushmen, literally dressed in animal skins.

Supai, Hello Sir. Keiyaa, How are you?

Molelian, Welcome!

Richard was accompanied by a local guide who immediately took care of all the translation work. When father Bala and son Shakwa immediately start to poach a freshly shot rabbit, I become completely suspicious. But no, this is not an organised Flintstones show, but the real thing. “This family lives like nomads, and feeds only of the hunt”, says Richard. “Only the proceeds from the homemade hunting arrows that they sell as souvenirs generate some financial income for them. All the rest is authentic.” And then we leave. At a surprisingly high pace father and son go barefoot and only loaded with bow and arrow through the savannah. With that bow you wouldn’t even be able to shoot a cow from two metres, I think, that’s how amateurish it looks. Until junior all of a sudden fires a shot. The distance is so great that I did not even see the prey, but it’s a direct hit. Humbled, I reconsider my first impression.

Hunters with high-tech weapons sipping from flasks: eat your heart out! This little boy enjoys the necessary attention. Speaking of a cliff-hanger; this asks for more. Four hours later we bring home six birds, two rabbits and one fox.

In this bushman tribe, happiness goes on foot. .

TA N Z A N I A

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THROUGH HILL AND PARK In the afternoon we visit the smaller Arusha National Park,

and a fine dining restaurant. I refreshed myself in one of

as well as the beautiful Tarangire Park the next day - where

the beautiful rooms and I sit with Dirk on the terrace to

we are treated to baobabs and a mass of elephants. 2,500

muse about life, the indefinable African feeling and the call

of them live here. Before jumping onto the KLM night flight

of the jungle. “You don’t have to live in Africa for long to

back to Amsterdam, I visit fellow countryman Dirk Janssens

become aware of the luxury position of the Belgians. What

in Arusha, co-owner of a charming B&B, a boutique hotel

is evident to us is abnormal here in Africa,” he remarks. “Did

and a restaurant.

you know that if I want to send my children to an upscale school in Tanzania, it would cost me a small car every year?

His goal: to deliver price/quality in a project that also

And on the other hand: the population here has little or

benefits the locals. A noble initiative. After a career at

nothing at all, but they never complain. They keep smiling,

luggage manufacturer Samsonite, his wife Inneke was

even though some are without work or half the family is

suddenly offered a job at the UN - a vacancy in International

dying of AIDS. And in Belgium everyone is complaining

Criminal Law - in Arusha. Dirk applied for time credit and

about everything, even though the facilities are heavenly.

left. In July 2006 he opened Onsea House, a B&B with five

Well...’’

rooms. That quickly turned out to be a hit. Onsea House was supplemented in September 2011 with a neighbour

The journey ends as it began: “Naomba kili baridi, bring us

project: Machweo, a nine-room boutique hotel that presents

another cold lager! “Hakuna matata!

itself as an upscale address, including a wellness retreat

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TA N Z A N I A

TA N Z A N I A

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TA N Z A N I A CLIMB THE KILIMANJARO SERENGETI TREK

NGORONGORO C R AT E R

PEARL WHITE BEACHES OF ZANZIBAR

L A K E M A N YA R A

PR AC TI C AL :

BEST TRAVEL TIME:

Tanzania - full name: United Republic of Tanzania - is

You can theoretically travel to Tanzania throughout the year.

an independent country in East Africa. It is bordered by

But northern Tanzania has a rainy season from mid-March

Kenya and Uganda to the north; Rwanda, Burundi, and the

to the end of May, and these months are less favourable to

Democratic Republic of the Congo to the west; Zambia,

go on safari. From July to October is the dry season, and

Malawi, and Mozambique to the south; and the Indian

therefore ideal to travel through the north, as well as the

Ocean to the east. The capital is Dodoma, but the largest

months of December to March. November can be plagued

city is Dar es Salaam. It is a republic with a federal structure.

by a short rainy season.

In 1992 a multi-party system and a free-market economy were introduced. The currency is the Tanzanian shilling.

Observers call Tanzania the land of the silent revolution.

BOOKING A TRIP:

East Africa is booming, the region seems immune to the global crisis.

Interested in making this trip yourself? Atelier Africa Safaris has been selling this custom trip for years. Each trip is made

Tanzania is one of the top safari islands on a touristic

to your wishes.

level. The parks are large and great, richly equipped with

For more information visit our website:

game. Tourism plays a very important role, although the

www.atelier-africa.com or send an email to info@

absolute number of visitors is modest, four times less than

atelier-africa.be

neighbouring Kenya.

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TA N Z A N I A

CONTINUE TRAVELING TO ZANZIBAR Zanzibar belongs to Tanzania and is therefore the perfect option for a combination. This archipelago with an enormous amount of history used to be the connection between the Western and Arab world. Thanks to the cultural exchange, even the beautiful Swahili language arose there. One of the most interesting visits is Stonetown, the city where Freddy Mercury was born and where you can perfectly sniff the atmosphere of the ancient spice route that runs through small alleys and past authentic shops.

To relax, the white beaches that surround the entire island are excellent. Atelier Africa knows the best destinations from family-friendly resorts to very small camps and private islands in the Zanzibar archipelago.

TA N Z A N I A

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MAURITIUS

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AT E L I E R A F R I C A S A FA R I S

CONGO

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CONGO R AW W I T H PA S S I O N

Discover the vast Virunga National Park: tropical rain forests, volcanic mountains, buffaloes, hippos, elephants, lions and various monkeys. But above all it is known as one of the only places where mountain gorillas still live. Go on an expedition and be face to face with these fascinating animals. A unique experience!

Texts; Kristof Vanderhoeven. Photography; Timothy Denys

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CONGO

AR R IVAL I N RWAN DA The Virunga National Park had to be the highlight of this

The Marriott hotel, which is now pontifically present, was

trip. The oldest national park in Africa - founded in 1925

not even there eight months ago. Things that require a lot

by our very own Albert I - has a name like a clock and a

of time and effort in Belgium, are achieved in Kigali in just

reputation that dazzles even the bravest African traveller.

a few months. And President Kagame has even more big

In fact, an actual Netflix documentary was dedicated to it

plans. On the way to hotel Gloria - where we spend the first

in 2014. And no matter how great Virunga National Park

night after a pleasant flight of barely ten hours - it is also

was, it was not the only highlight of this eight-day trip

striking that a lot of houses have a cross on the façade.

through Central Africa. The first thing you notice when you

“Those are the people who will be expropriated between

arrive in Rwanda is that the capital Kigali is a big city in full

now and three years, in the context of the revaluation of

expansion. A metropolis in the making.

Kigali centre”, guide Kevin explains. .

CONGO

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CO N G O MA S SAG E Day 2 is all about moving to Bukima Camp in the Virunga

Arriving at the border crossing in Gisenyi immediately

National Park. We exchange the almost Western-like

makes it clear that it is often faster and more structured

Rwanda for the chaos that seems to be so typical for

here than it is in Belgium.

Congo. The bus ride to Goma is then typified by spotting cyclists who hold on to trucks and cars in the hope of

Here and there, an acute case of documentaritis sometimes

crossing the many hills as smoothly as possible. Second

appears, but in general it is progressing well. Yellow fever

remarkable fact: our van is equipped with a black box that

check? Check. Passport check? Check. We exchange our

prevents the driver from driving too fast. If he ventures

van and the comfortable asphalt roads of Rwanda for a

above 60 km/h, the engine simply turns off. Dangerous?

Defender jeep and the sandy roads of Congo. In Goma city

A tad, but efficient most of all. Anyone who is caught by

it is still somewhat comfortable, but as soon as we leave

the mass police patrols may have to pay 100 dollars. If you

the asphalt, we end up on something that can hardly be

know that the average Rwandan has to work a month for

called a dirt road. The Defenders collide from pit to pit and

that amount, you also understand why drivers try to warn

are tested to the limit. The numerous Yamaha’s that are

each other with little clear hand signals in case of speed

present here are overloaded, just like the gigantic wooden

checks.

tricycles. People sit with four on one bike, as if it is the way it should be.

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Between all that involuntary jumping around in the car after you’ve hit your head against the roof for the fourth time, you’re starting to get used to it - you can marvel at the splendour of those few dozen stone buildings that you see popping up in the street scene. Turns out the Congolese are fond of bright colours and the big telecom operators respond to that. They provide the paint and the Congolese paint their houses willingly in the colours - including the logo - of the Vodafones and Oranges of this world.

Advertising couldn’t possibly be any cheaper.

In Bukima Camp there are no bright colours or painted logos. But there is a camp of army tents so large that you can fit in a complete scouts regiment. The fact that a full bed, shower (with hot water) and toilet is present ensures that the scouts feeling quickly disappears into the background. The view of the surrounding volcanoes - the one that we will conquer within three days is the middle one of the three - is ideal to dream away. Having a night to catch our breath, because tomorrow we will go into Virunga to spot mountain gorillas.

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S P OT TI N G S I LVER BAC KS After a morning briefing - putting on a mouth mask, keeping seven metres distance and being submissive at all times - the journey begins. Explorers went into the park three hours before us to locate the gorillas and to clear the way. We are guided by ranger Pierre who makes a trip in an impenetrable rain forest look like a walk in the park.

Pierre is in direct (radio) contact with the scouts and thus knows the exact moment we arrive at the gorillas’ location.

Just before the most wonderful encounter in your life, we go over the basics.

EXCITED CHATTER M A K E S WAY F O R S I L E N C E AND WONDER.

And then it’s on: mouth mask on, cameras at the ready and enjoy. There you are, in the heart of Virunga National Park, surrounded by silverbacks. Excited chatter makes way for silence and wonder. After a while you even forget to take pictures, they are so beautiful. Never before have you been so close to an animal that could kill you with one well-intentioned blow.

The reason you dare to do this here is because everything is arranged down to the smallest detail, the rangers know perfectly what they are doing and gorillas are no aggressive animals. Even the giants - a silverback measures up to 1m90 and easily weighs 180 kilograms - of the gang are mainly focused on the leaves they are eating all day long.

No less than 25 kilos per day. On your way back, you are so euphoric about the fauna you have just seen that you forget to enjoy the beauty of the flora that you pass by.

However, the best news is that we can go again tomorrow!

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New day, new visit to a family of mountain gorillas. The briefing remains the same, the journey takes an hour longer (2h30 instead of 1h30) and the weather conditions are a bit disappointing this time. The rain not only ensures wet clothes and feet, but also makes for hungry silverbacks.

After all, they have waited the whole morning for the rain and have not yet eaten enough. Ranger Pierre warns us to be extra careful. As if they had been planning it together, one of the silverback’s charges just three minutes later. “For play”, Ranger Pierre knows, because “he likes to scare the tourists”. But even then the ranger and the scouts threw themselves in front of us as if to protect their own children.

You will never feel safer.

And certainly not more privileged. In Uganda you pay a sloppy 900 euros for a gorilla visit, whereas they charge you 500 euros in Rwanda. Congo, the only other country where you can find the mountain gorillas, is by far the cheapest of the three at 400 euros. Because tourism is still in its infancy over there? Definitely. You can only benefit from it. After the trip we pick up our stuff at Bukima Camp and drive towards Mikeno Lodge. .

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H Y PN OTI C L AVA A short stopover at the headquarters of Virunga - those lodges, you cannot believe your eyes - is all we need to recharge the batteries. The vervet monkeys and colobus monkeys make your breakfast extra special with a real tree choreography. Dozens of monkeys swing from tree to tree, while you enjoy a delicious tree tomato juice. The drive towards the Nyiragongo volcano is another drive the Congolese people bring under the denominator of Congo massage. We have been used to this for a long time, of course.

It wouldn’t be the hardest test of the day either. Canes are sold at the foot of the Nyiragongo volcano. Superfluous, you’d think at first.

Until one of the backpack carriers forces a cane in your hands and makes it clear that you will need it.

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And it’s effective, just two hours later you find yourself

Even though you’re watching at a bird’s-eye view of 450

amidst a mass of loose lava stones. At such a moment you

metres. You don’t feel the glow, but the spectacle that takes

are glad that you can find support with your cane. The four

place before your eyes is hard to beat. The only reason to

stopovers are welcome, because people who have to bridge

end up in your mini-hut on the flanks of the crater is the

1500 vertical metres in six hours time are in need of a break

biting cold wind. That, and the knowledge that you will be

now and then. The breath-taking view, of course, does not

awakened for breakfast the next day at 6:00 AM. After that

help. Once you have reached the top, after a climbing party

breakfast the descent starts and for that you better have

on all fours to bridge the last 750 metres, you are glad that

rubbed all the sleep out of your eyes. Four and a half hours

a campfire has been made where you can warm your hands.

later you are safely at the foot of Nyiragongo and it is time

The fact that there’s warm food awaiting you less than hour

to set course for Lake Kivu.

after arrival is not only slightly decadent but also amazing.

Once the darkness has made its entrance, lava gazing can begin. Nothing works more hypnotically than staring at lava.

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TOO B E AUTI FU L After a moment of registration that worked more on the

Congo is a patchwork of overly individual, but noble

laughter muscles than the last show of Philip Geubels we

initiatives - the Virunga National Park in the lead - which

can take the boat to Tchegera Island for a day of relaxing,

hopefully lead to a situation in the relatively short term that

whether or not with a kayak. The welcome was warm, the

benefits the local population.

food delicious - I’ve never eaten better anywhere else! -

The fact of the matter is that we didn’t feel unsafe for one

and the surroundings majestic. A day of relaxation in the

minute in any of the two countries. Everything was well-

middle of the Kivu lake, in the shadow of the home of Kabila

organised. The atmosphere was always warm. There was no

himself, we can recommend it to everyone.

downside at all? There was. There is too much beauty on

After the last bumpy jeep ride and a slightly less smooth

this trip. After a few days you drive past the most beautiful

border crossing. we see Kevin. He takes us to the Hotel

views without even noticing them. You are so satisfied after

des Mille Collines in Kigali. The perfect end to a journey

a few days of Congo and Rwanda. The natural beauty, the

with more impressions and stimuli than any other trip.

many impressions, the encounters with humans and animals,

The difference between Congo and Rwanda could not be

the sight of the volcano, the desolated character of the

greater. Rwanda lives, Congo survives. Or at least makes an

island. Everything was so beautiful that it hurts. Because

attempt at it. Rwanda overcame the horrible genocide in

of both emotion and desperation. If this trip doesn’t touch

1994 and now seems to be a (more or less) united country.

you, nothing will.

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CONGO RWENZORI M O O N M O U N TA I N S V I R U N G A N AT I O N A L PA R K

LULIMBI

G O R I L L A S E C TO R NYIRAGONGU VOLCANO

PR AC TI C AL :

B E ST TR AVEL TI M E:

C L I M AT E

Daily and direct flights with Brussels Airlines to Kigali in

Virunga National Park has a pleasant climate throughout the

Rwanda are the fastest way. From the airport it is a smooth

year. Thanks to the height of the park and the mountains it

ride to the border with Congo.

is never very hot. From mid-March to May and also in the month of November there is a rainy season, which is the ideal period for many.

VEILIGHEID

BOO K I N G A TR I P :

The Virunga National Park communicates very clearly about possible problems in the region and will always inform the

This report was drawn Ă la carte by Atelier Africa Safaris,

tour operator if a problem occurs. The region has been

a Belgian tour operator based in Africa and specialised in

perfectly safe for tourists for several years now and the

demanding and high quality tailor-made safari trips, in all

park also does everything to keep it that way.

price ranges. Each journey and each program are unique, reflecting the needs of the customer. www.atelier-africa.com - www.congosafaris.com

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CONTINUE TRAVELING TO RWANDA All our trips to Congo always start and end in Kigali, so

the chimpanzee and the gorilla. Also in the Volcanoes

Rwanda is the logical addition to a trip in Congo. Rwanda

National Park, where the world famous Diane Fosey Center

is an incredibly modern African country that is very clean

is, you can see chimpanzees and gorillas. Or maybe you are

and has magnificent sights such as the genocide museum

lucky and spot the golden monkey. The beautiful Musanze

in Kigali itself. The Rwandan government is currently also

Cave in Ruwangeri appears to be an ideal ending to your

busy with the reconstruction of their national parks. There

trip.

are countless natural paradises. The Akagera National park is a beautiful location where you can see the Big Five and a large wealth of antilopes. In Nyungwe forest you can do a canopy walk and in the meantime try to spot all 13 different kinds of primates such as the Colobus monkey,

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34

M E E R I N FO A B O U T V I R U N G A N AT I O N A L PA R K ?

W W W.CO N G OSAFAR I . B E

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CONGO

ETHIOPIA

AT E L I E R A F R I C A S A FA R I S

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AT E L I E R A F R I C A S A FA R I S

SOUTH AFRICA LUXURIOUS WILDLIFE

Half of the time you will enjoy an eye-catching Afro-chic design villa with private swimming pool, while at sunrise and sunset you cruise through your private Land Rover through the jungle, gin and tonic in your hand. With the triangle combination Royal Malewane, Singita Sweni and Londolozi you will experience the South African dream safari.

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LUXU R IO US WI LD LI FE A sandwich and a coffee ago we stayed in the metropolis

But especially because Royal Malewane is so pure, and

Johannesburg, now we stand with our feet in the loose sand

breathes the perfect ‘Out of Africa’ atmosphere - Robert

next to a moss green Land Rover Defender, the workhorse

Redford and Meryl Streep not included. Nicolas Sarkozy

of the Royal Malewane Lodge. Five members of staff are

and Carla Bruni also spent their honeymoon here in early

waiting for us in bright white uniform. Yes, this is really

2008. “We are indeed trying to create the perfect safari,”

‘royal’. Royal Malewane is not the first camp with just seven

says British hotel manager Liza.

rooms.

“And sometimes we go very far to accomplish that. Last week a somewhat silly Australian guest wanted to go

Bono, Elton John: they and other world stars choose this

jogging in the morning. He did that every morning, he would

site for their annual trip to the bush. “The only place in the

have done that now. Not a problem. But I did have a jeep

world where Microsoft’s CEO switches off his smartphone,”

with an armed ranger follow him... “The host immediately

according to the story. And not only because this top lodge,

introduces us to the new friends: the burly ranger Juan and

which opened more than ten years ago, houses the largest

the silent tracker Wilson. “Tea at three-thirty, we’re gone

suite in the savannah, or provides an average of eight staff

at four o’clock,” Juan says in a tone that clearly does not

per room.

accept any argument. “And don’t forget the warm clothes,

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40

it’s gonna be cold after sunset.” Upon arrival at the lodge,

What was fun was the American guest who misinterpreted

the chef has lit the barbecue and the evening is brightened

the prescription of his malaria pills. Instead of one tablet

in the same way they solve everything in Africa - with dance

per week, he took one per day. This not only gave him

and singing. The staff, dressed in local costumes for the

hallucinatory images of man-devouring lions, but also a

occasion, started acting out in no time. They’re jumping

near-death experience. And then there was the baboon

around fire pits, stomping on the floor and singing loudly.

who had entered a room and sat on a tree a moment later showing off a passport in his hand and a purple G-string on his head. Yeah, yeah, safaris...

BABOON WITH PURPLE U N D ER PANTS We fill the next two days according to a fixed pattern.

Getting up at half past five, departing at sunrise around six o’clock. Coffee at eight and driving around until half past nine. Then have breakfast and laze. Lunch. When the midday devil strikes, taking a short nap, and leaving again at about four o’clock, when the heat diminishes rapidly.

Driving until half past eight, dinner around eight, bedtime at ten o’clock.

During the last evening, guests and rangers fraternise around an immense campfire. “You can ask for anything, even if you’re a blonde,” a colonial traveller who was unable to get his own TV show jokes. The ice is broken. And as it goes; the later in the evening, the more spectacular the stories.

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M O N ITO R I N G TH E R E S PEC TFU L TO U R IS M E “The bad news is that more and more lodges are opening

The message is to remember this. With a refreshing glass

their doors,” says Marlon du Toit, the chief of Singita Sweni

of chenin blanc, we take a look at the map at night under

- our second stop - in safari shirt, shorts and brown leather

the light of the oil lamp. Singita Sweni and neighbor

boots. This morning, a Federal Air Taxi sport plane flew us

hotel Singita Lebombo are located in a private park of

in stylishly, departing from no more than a dash of paved

fifteen thousand hectares, just next to an eastern corner

country road. No building, nothing. Only a windsock and a

of the Kruger Park, on the border with Mozambique. The

rack with two fire extinguishers. But there was a lot of dust,

difference with Kruger is that this park is not operated by

a vast steppe and a scorching heat. “The good news is that

the government but with private capital and is therefore

for compensation more and more areas are classified as

only accessible to those who are staying there. In other

‘game reserve’ and old hunting areas are being transformed

words, you can drive around for hours without meeting

into a photo-safari location. Relatively speaking, everything

another car, in contrast to the public parks where every

remains as it was’’, he completes. We immediately get an

animal that stops near a road is almost being stormed.

extensive answer to our spontaneous comment ‘that it’s busy’. We were referring to the situation that our plane had to commence the landing twice because of giraffes on the track during the first attempt. But the dear man interpreted it differently. “I’m not going to drive too fast”, Marlon calls once he is seated in the Land Rover. “Elephants always

LOVE N E ST B E T WEEN TH E TR EE S

cross the road without looking. They never learn...” On the way he explains the main house rules with a hoarse voice and big gestures.

The price tag for a safari varies, just like all other types of travel, from budget to super-deluxe. From simple colonial tents to dazzling lodges designed by trendy designers.

After sunset (which is already around five o’clock in the

Singita Sweni Lodge belongs to the top without a mistake.

afternoon in the winter months) you can’t walk around

“When the architects drew these lodges, they had one

alone. If you want to move around, you have to call an

assignment: create an unbeatable place with an all-in

(armed) ranger.

concept”, says sommelier Henrico van Lill. Singita is his

ZUID AFRIKA

42

animals counted. The accommodation and meals were a sideshow. Just like the practical facilities: if you wanted to

ZEN IS THE MAGIC W O R D.

go to the toilet, you simply had to go to the nearest tree.

This has changed. Whoever can and wants to pay for this, demands a total experience. Beautiful rooms and a top kitchen are part of that.”

walhalla and large playground. Because downstairs, buried in the ground, there is a spectacular wine cellar with 15,000 bottles of the best that the world - and especially the Cape - has to offer. Singita Sweni is an oasis with just six suites,

G R E ATER K RU G ER AR E A , B I G GAM E

where the privacy of the guests is an absolute priority.

Zen is the magic word. We know few hotels that are so right about that. We are assigned Suite 6, a central house

Time for action again. Each villa has its own Land Rover,

overlooking the river surrounded by seven-hundred-year-

a driver-guide and a tracker, a track finder. ‘Land Rover

old trees. At the least, the architecture is surprising and

Jockeys’ is their nickname. In our case they are called

refined. And has nothing to do with the upgraded camping

Marlon and Glass. Together they have more than thirty years

tents that used to be in charge around here. “This hotel is

of experience and form a close team. Marlon controls the

a response to the latest safari trend”, the host tells us the

open Land Rover with one hand, the gaze permanently

next morning during coffee. “Twenty years ago only the

aimed at the environment and the right hand of tracker

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ZUID AFRIKA

Glass, which determines the direction through firm

Our first day was already a hit, even though ‘shot’ is not

directions. “We have a network of more than a hundred

really the right word in a nature reserve where they do

kilometres of dirt roads here, of which I could ride most with

everything to keep the population up to standard. In the

my eyes closed,” Marlon says without a hint of pretension.

afternoon we settle down at our pool and we enjoy the

A fleece blanket and a hot water bottle are waiting on our

dosed winter sun.

chair. Glass sits impatiently on the tracker seat, hat far over the ears, with thick gloves and two coats on. Gas pedal, a

A few hours later we are ready for the afternoon ride. Even

black cloud: here we go again. Glass works according to the

now the animals are numerous. And that’s pretty unusual.

known principle; read traces (often excrement), progress,

“The actual bush area is much larger than about twenty

observe. “Hima, hima (stop)”, he beckons. He saw elephants

years ago, so one has to search longer. And this produces

and zebras in the distance.

stubborn rumours,” says Marlon, who is again dressed in a perfect safari shirt. “But that there are generally fewer

The sun has only just risen, the air still feels freezing cold.

animals than in the early days is a fable. Although there are

We see a large herd, only elephant cows and their calves.

animals that are in (great) danger, such as the rhino, the

A small specimen is still unsteady on the legs.

rest of the population remains constant.”

We have never seen them so young. “How old do you

At sunset we choose a large, thick tree and we stop for

think he is?” I ask in a whisper. “Less than four weeks”,

a gin & tonic. Glass spreads his table: white linen, crystal

he answers. The calf looks cartoon-chubby. Rubbery too.

glasses, an oil lamp at the lowest branch. We eat some old

“Elephants are like whales, but different,” Marlon joins

cheese and toast, nobody says anything. We enjoy each

the conversation. “Gentle, powerful and intelligent.” We

other’s company, the golden evening light and the silence

continue driving and immediately pass a whole zoo: zebras,

of the vast savannah. This is the pure, wild Africa. “Life is so

hippos, impalas, monkeys. “Every traveller wants to see the

beautiful in Kruger Park,” muses Marlon. “Not for a million

Big Five: lion, rhinoceros, buffalo, leopard and elephant”,

bucks would I want to live anywhere else.”

says Marlon. “And that’s basically no problem. The only one that’s harder to find is the leopard. Especially because it is a nocturnal animal.”

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44

PR IO R IT Y FRO M E VERY WH ER E On the way back - in the meantime it has become pitch

that suddenly spread their ears; then it’s serious.

dark - what everyone hopes for finally happens. We hit a group of hunting lions. Marlon immediately stops the

Make sure you’re getting out of there.” Half an hour later

engine, reports the confrontation via the on-board radio at

the lodge calls us. “Everything okay, Marlon?” We confirm.

the lodge and turns off the lights. It is pitch dark and quiet.

“Right, the chef must not wait! It’s barbecue time in the

We are now alone with the origin of our existence, the ‘circle

‘boma’.” Boma stands for ‘British Officers Mess Area’,

of life’. Suddenly there is a sound in the bushes. Ten males

a round, secure eating place with a big campfire in the

and eight females walk past the Land Rover. They slowly

middle. On the menu: fresh springbok (legally hunted)

make their way through the desiccated tall grass. “Because

with freshly picked tomatoes, lime and sweet potatoes.

they grew up with our cars, they do not see us as a threat,”

Everything topped with a bottle of Springfield Wild Yeast

whispers Glass, who exchanges his forward seat for a place

chardonnay from 2006 and Adi Badenhorst’s beloved RWT

in the SUV for safety purposes. “And they will not respond

red blend from 2005. Terribly tasty!

to flash light either. Only if you leave the vehicle will you get their attention. But beware especially for elephants

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ZUID AFRIKA

S EC U R I N G M I N I M U M I M PAC T During dinner we get to chat with Mike, a hobby photographer and fanatic ecologist from Durban. “What’s so remarkable about this lodge is the minimal impact on nature,” he explains. “The suites are spacious stilt houses made of wood and steel, but nevertheless seem as if they were dropped into place from a helicopter. No pipes and utilities were buried, everything was neatly hidden between the bushes. Hypothetically speaking, if necessary, they could leave here within 24 hours without anyone noticing that there has ever been a hotel here: “They touch the earth lightly, you know!” Ranger Marlon joins the company. And he has a nice story. About that thirsty buffalo who tried to take a swig of pool water but could not get his head deep enough over the edge. He took a run-up, splashed into the pool with his seven hundred kilos, splattered everything, quenched his thirst and stepped back into the bush via the steps in the shallow part. Even Glass, who might have heard the story a hundred times, laughs about it. Before bedtime the barkeeper has an important announcement: “Do not forget your thermo-poncho, it’s likely gonna be cold during the morning drive. And don’t forget to lock your room either. Last week the monkeys have stolen a bunch

G I R AFFE AGAI N H I N D ERS PL AN E

of keys and a wallet.”

“Avuxeni!” says Glass: “Good morning!”

It is freezing cold again in the Land Rover and it will stay that way for another two hours. Only when the sun climbs above the horizon will we be able to warm ourselves. That quality tourism in South Africa - with more than seven million visitors per year - are not empty words, is proved by these guys it every day. The tracker has seen an empty pack of cigarettes. We stop, pick it up and take it with us.

Driving off of the usual paths is also limited to a minimum.

When they both suddenly, after a serious message from the onboard radio, burst out in laughter, we don’t really know why. “A bush pilot is asking for assistance because there are giraffes on the runway again,” says Jenny. “We have to go and play policemen. When are you flying to Londolozi?

Tomorrow morning? Okay, we’ll tell the giraffes right away.

That saves us work...”

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46

AD D ITIO NAL PROTEC TIO N During the day, the lodge shows us what real luxury means. In the late morning we’re offered a small wine tasting, lunch we do tête-à-tête on a rock above the river and then we are massaged with local oils in the spa centre. What a life…

When the sun turns orange again, we go on a tour for the last time. We drink the last aperitif at the edge of the river.

Everything is peacefully quiet. Or at least, so it seems. “The most dangerous animal is the hyena,” says Glass. “It’s right up there in the top three. The lion’s number one, but what makes the hyena so dangerous is that it is so sneaky and silent.” On the way to the lodge we are granted an impressive last spectacle.

A leopard is lazing on a branch in the deep grey shade of a low tree. Its coat is spotless, honey-coloured. His nose is pink, his belly is ivory-coloured. This oversized cat feels completely at ease. We drive a little closer, prepare our cameras and photograph it. Suddenly his poisonous green eyes look at us in a piercing way.

His gaze seems to pierce us. He yawns and then rests again. False alarm. Phew.

A soup of roasted red peppers followed by fillet steak of impala grilled over the smouldering coals of hawthorn wood...

That is our farewell dinner. We drink a deep red merlot and listen to the hippopotamus in the river. Again, we realise in our deepest core what ‘The Call of Africa’ means.

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LO N DO LOZI H O N O U RS TH E ECO - L AB EL Quality tourism is the highest priority for South Africa. “The

for example, but considers the local safaris better

government is really making huge efforts,” says the cheerful

than those in that other big safari country, Kenya. He

ranger Richard on our third and final short stop: Londolozi.

describes it as old-fashioned, especially when it comes to

Okay, the rhino is in real jeopardy and must be protected.

accommodation. “But it has to be said: we owe the success

But as for the rest, the population remains constant,

of the South African safaris mainly to the traveller himself”,

although they are spread over a much larger area than

says Richard. “Yes, you should not be frightened of that: I

in the early years of organised tourism. So one needs to

do notice that the environment is being dealt with more

search for animals for longer, and that produces persistent

respectfully as time passes. And luckily, now there are

rumours.” Londolozi is a family business since 1926 and was

camera shots and no longer gun shots.”

always the favourite of the late Nelson Mandela.

At bedtime we find a nice card on the pillow in our Tree The cluster of lodges - there are five different styles and the

Camp villa. “Londolozi is always looking for a fusion

same amount of price classes - is increasingly becoming

between Ancient African Wisdom, Modern Technology and

the perfect eco-safari. ‘Protector of all living things’ is the

Nature. In the words of Dave Varty, “The age of restoration

credo, the literal translation of Londolozi.

will be born from the age of information.” Dankie.

In order to reinforce this, they are even experimenting with electric off-road vehicles. Tracker Oxide readily admits that South Africa is not the super-wilderness Tanzania is

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SOUTH AFRICA DRAKENBERG

K R U G E R PA R K

STELLENBOSH

W H A L E WAT C H I N G

PENGUINS GOLFING

BEST TRAVEL TIME:

PRACTICAL: No one will argue with the fact that South Africa is a

Those who go on safari in South Africa have two options.

beautiful travel destination and the number of visitors has

Either you choose the summer (our winter) and you enjoy

grown spectacularly in recent years. Since the abolition of

high temperatures but also humidity and mosquitoes.

apartheid in South Africa - this was a new start for many.

In the winter months (our summer) it is 25 degrees during

It did not always go smoothly and race problems and

the day but the sun sets early and the nights are (very)

poverty remain a daily occurrence - international tourism

cold. Mosquitoes are not an issue at this time, however.

grew by seven hundred percent. For many travellers the Kruger Park sounds like the safari area, but the lesser known and quieter private reserves are certainly equally

BOOKING A TRIP:

interesting!

These lodges are more expensive, but there are many advantages: all-in, personalised and quiet.

Interested in making this trip yourself? Atelier Africa Safaris has been selling this custom trip for years. Each trip is made

South Africa, the southernmost country of the African

to your wishes. For more information visit our website:

continent, has 53 million inhabitants, is seventeen times

www.atelier-africa.com or send an email to info@

larger than the Netherlands, easily accessible and a culinary

atelier-africa.be We are already looking forward to your

heaven.

email.

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ZUID AFRIKA

CONTINUE TRAVELING TO MOZAMBIQUE Since the Kruger park with its eastern side is completely adjacent to Mozambique, an extension to Mozambique is the logical choice. With a variety of flights from the Kruger Park to Mozambique you create the ideal safari/beach combination. Imagine the tranquil oasis of the Baza Rutu archipal where you are surrounded by azure water, pearly white beaches and emerald green nature. Mozambique is known for its unique cuisine with the local specialty, Peri-peri Chicken. Besides relaxing in one of the luxury private resorts or private islands, you can also enjoy a wide range of water sports such as diving and snorkelling.

Afterwards you can rest with the feet in the sand and a delicious fresh grilled fish.

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KENYA

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AT E L I E R A F R I C A S A FA R I S

B O T S WA N A

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B O T S WA N A TO T H E R H Y T H M OF THE RIVER

Although located in the middle of the Kalahari desert, the Okavango delta in Botswana is home to a wide range of animal species due to annual flooding. That makes this area, declared Unesco World Heritage in June 2014, one of the most unique safari sites in Africa.

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TO U C H DOWN I N BOTSWANA Our departure from Kasane Airport was something

The warning from our pilot for ‘some bumps’ was no joke,

amateurish, or should we say ‘pleasant’? Even though they

the toy airplane is buckling and shaking. Two stopovers and

try to achieve international standards, it doesn’t work.

ninety minutes later we land on an unpaved, dusty track

Perhaps because the metal detector plug was not plugged

where the terminal is a wooden shed. Some joker painted

into the socket. With a plane that begs for turbulence, a

‘Terminal 5’ on the welcome plate.

twelve-seater Kodiak from the regional society Safari Link,

A few giraffes watch unmoved at a distance. Next to them,

piloted by a good-looking bush pilot in shorts, we fly at four

a moss-green Toyota Land Cruiser, our transfer to Okuti

hundred metres above the savannah. We are struck by the

Camp, a nice spot along the Maunachira River, one of four

brown green and blue colour palette, the vast expanse and

lodges of the small-scale Ker & Downey chain. And they

the unimaginable void; no roads, no settlements.

take that serious here. Maximum ten guests is the motto. .

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N O STR E S S B ROTH ER Camp manager and joker Bujos, having the looks of an African Mathias Schoenaerts and a voice that keeps unwanted wild animals at a distance, leads the staff with natural authority and with a smile. “Our shop is the only store in a radius of 200 kilometres,” he explains. “And the chance that you need the umbrellas in the room is small.

And as far as the alarm horn in your room is concerned, you only use it when there is an elephant in your room. In case he stands in front of it, you just take a photo.” Okuti was built ten years ago and has already been modernised.

The unique location, the distinctive architecture (mosasa, a kind of oversized hut, but with five stars) and the small scale make it a unique place. Or as operator Ker & Downey likes to describe it: “A safari for connoisseurs.”

After an excellent sandwich lunch with a Sauvignon blanc from the Cape, we meet Mozes and Solly, guide/track seeker and driver respectively. The Moremi Game Reserve

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is the playground of Okuti, and what beautiful landscapes the domain contains. We see zebras, suspicious footprints of hippos (by far the most dangerous animals in the jungle)

A NATU R AL TR E A SU RY

and a multitude of elephants.

In a part of the world that is known for its grand landscapes Near the off-road vehicle two impala’s are embarking on an

and wide panoramas, the Okavango delta manages to take

impressive power meeting, in which they hit their antlers

it a step further and touch every traveller. With sixteen

loudly against each other. And we spot giraffes and a lion

thousand square kilometres, Okavango is the world’s

family at a few water pools. “Botswana isn’t the ideal place

largest inland delta, a water rich forest area with countless

to see the Big Five in a hurry,” Moses explains. “This is not a

canals and ribbon-like branches. An extreme ecosystem

been there, done that destination, but a mysterious region

that originated in the deciduous forests of Angola, from

where you just let nature work.

where the water flows from the highlands of Botswana and spreads for months and finds a way to finally evaporate

This is the real Africa. “When the sun almost disappears,

in the sand of the Kalahari desert. Nowhere is the water

the Land Cruiser stops in an open plain and a sundowner

system connected to an ocean. The whole is a pleasant

is drunk while in the distance a hurdle of impala’s and

place of green and fertile plains, hundreds of kilometres

baboons are watching us from the tall trees. All the sounds

long, a jumble of small rivers, crystal clear because a lot

we absorb seem shrieks of primal happiness.

of sediment is deposited on the ground. The shape of the delta is often compared to a hand: the palm is the permanent swamp area and the fingers form watercourses.

.

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As home to more than five hundred different bird

less tourists who each pay more.” Thus, Botswana is not

species, the basin is also called the Garden of Eden. An

the first destination people think about when they want

understatement, some travellers find. Because of the

to go on a safari in Africa. Unlike more famous countries

channel structure, it is also described as the ‘Venice of

such as Kenya, Tanzania or South Africa, Botswana is still

nature’.

unspoilt and not overrun with tourists. Going for exclusive and expensive sounds elitist, but also has a deeper reason.

PR IVI LEG E PER S P O RT PL AN E

“This perhaps controversial choice means that we do not squander our fragile biotopes on mass tourism,” says T-man.

“Botswana is not an ordinary zoo, but a framework that gives you the chance to perceive animals in a responsible manner, as is impossible otherwise.”

Forty-eight hours later we move to Kanana Camp, also a short stay from Ker & Downey, 25 minutes flying and located deeper in the south-western side of the delta. A female pilot, first name unknown and the age estimated at eighteen, does so with panache and bravura. In the VIP lounge - another one of those jokes - T-man and Doctor are waiting for us, our new guide and driver for the next two days. After a first safari trip, it becomes immediately clear: in the heart of the Okavango the nature experience is more intense and richer than in the margin of the delta.

It is a fact, a difficult but inevitable choice for those who want to travel Okavango. Kanana Camp is located on one arm of the Xudum River. This time we stay in a kind of pile dwelling, finished with canvas. Luxury accommodations with sumptuous bed, colonial nostalgia with fans instead of modern air conditioning, including outdoor shower to afternoon tea or ice-cooled Windhoek lager. .

E XPEN S IVE B UT U N FO RG E T TAB LE “Botswana, which recently celebrated its fifty years of independence, has been pursuing a sustainability policy for years,” explains T-man at the bush dinner in the evening.

“The focus is on the high cost, low impact principle. The result is that we have acquired the status of class safari.

The price tag fits the bill, because the only way is to attract

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N O IS ELE S S BY C AN O E Noiseless, the boatman Doctor pushes the mokoro, our canoe, through the reflecting water with his long stick.

A trip by mokoro offers the possibility to view the delta

Meanwhile, we marvel at bright blue kingfishers, white

from the water level, the attention focused on the small life.

spoonbills and dozens of other birds that we didn’t even

Originally the mokoros were made from old straight trees.

know existed. Yes, ornithologists can check off a long list

But today they use canoes made of fiberglass, which is

of bird species here every day. The canoe sways between

better for the environment. “The animals play an important

high papyrus plants, elephant grass and water lilies. Now

role in the formation of the landscape,” explains Doctor on

and then the water level appears to be just a little too low,

the way. “Hippos keep the marshes accessible with their

and Doctor has to leave his gondolier position to give us

large bodies. Elephants, with their seemingly disastrous

a push. The scammer of hippos in the distance makes him

eating habits - trees are eaten root and all - ensure an open

beware. Because soon we will have to return to the camp by

landscape that provides food and space for birds, insects

motorboat, and then suddenly emerging hippos will be the

and numerous grasses. Termites, in turn, provide the basis

only obstacle. At home it would be annoying to have to get

for island formation with their hills.” As a dessert we moor

up so early. However, here it’s wonderful to sniff the scent

under the trees where the pelicans stay in mating season.

of Africa in the blue morning twilight in a half tree trunk.

Hundreds are hanging around, making noise, winding themselves up for the intended partner.

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WAITI N G FO R TH E R AI N The last evening of our four-day dinner we dine on the wooden walkway under a rich starry sky. In the distance rumbles a first thunderstorm. “Within a few weeks there will be regular rains,” says T-man, “and the level of the canals will rise by almost a metre in the long term. Until a second thunderclap, which suddenly seems much closer, scares us all. In the wilderness, the drama is never far away.

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B O T S WA N A V I C TO R I A FA L L S

O K A VA N G O D E LT A

CHOBE

MOREMI KALAHARI

M A KG A D I KG A D I

PRACTICAL:

BEST TRAVEL TIME:

With its unique contrast between the breath-taking

Most popular places to visit in Botswana are the Okavango

Kalahari Desert and the Okavango Delta, Botswana is a

delta, Moremi Park and Chobe Park. These are best visited

top destination for anyone who likes to be amazed by

from May to September. Then it is winter and the dry

blissful views. It is located in southern Africa between

season causing milder temperatures. Be careful because

Namibia, South Africa and Zimbabwe and with its 2 million

the Okavango is flooding from June to October.

inhabitants it is one of the least densely populated countries in the world.

Since its independence, Botswana has had such a growing income that it evolved from one of the poorest countries

BOOKING A TRIP:

in the world to a medium-income country.

Interested in making this trip yourself? Atelier Africa Safaris With the largest population of African elephants in the

has been selling this custom trip for years. Each trip is made

world, a rich lion population and an abundance of different

to your wishes. For more information visit our website:

animal species, Botswana is simply the place to be. No

www.atelier-africa.com or send an email to info@

excuses not to go!

atelier-africa.be We are already looking forward to your email.

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CONTINUE TRAVELING TO VICTORIA FALLS The Victoria Falls are less than an hour’s drive from the border of Botswana. The perfect opportunity to see the largest waterfalls in the world discovered by David Livingstone. You can stay in Livingstone in Zambia or in Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe.

The waterfalls form the border between these two countries. If you opt for the Royal Livingstone hotel, you will have a typical high tea and you can watch the sunset on the mighty Zambezi river in the evening by boat. For the daredevils among us, you can go bungee jumping or swim in the devil pool on the abyss of the waterfall. This natural pool is completely surrounded by the waterfall and offers spectacular views over the abyss of the falls.

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ZIMBABWE 63

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MADAGASCAR

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M O R E SAFAR I I N S PI R ATIO N W W W. AT E L I E R-A F R I C A .CO M

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