Moroccan majesty The Djemaa El Fna bustles in Marrakech; (right page) traveling through Essaouira and the High Atlas
MOROCCO
John & Judith Johnson traveled to Morocco with Audley
W
ithin minutes of landing at Marrakech Airport, we were whisked into the fast-track lane and through and out in 15 minutes. We later met people who’d spent hours standing in line. Our private car took us to the Djemaa el Fna, the large public square in the heart of the city, and, from there, our guide led us on foot into the middle of the medina (old city) to the exquisite Riad Monceau. We stayed in a spacious ground-floor room that opened onto the tranquil courtyard garden, which was set around a pool. Having arrived to our hotel in the morning, we were ready for our private guide to show us around the medina. Having been to Marrakech as a student, some half a century ago, I know how easy it is to get lost in the teeming madness of the
medina. Luckily, our private guide, Ali, was born and bred here. He appeared to know every single person in the old city and they him. He was proud to show off his city, taking us to parts that other tour guides don’t tend to reveal to visitors. As darkness fell over the Djemaa el Fna, the last rays of the sun turned the tower of the Koutoubia Mosque fiery red against the lowering backdrop of the High Atlas. Lamps, flashlights and cooking fires were lit and the great square gradually flooded with people, as if bubbling up from underground springs. Locals and visitors together mixed with Berber dancers, street traders and cooks at smoking barbecues – children and old folk alike revelled in the joyous insanity of this square, whose size and atmosphere surely can’t be matched in all the world.
ESSENTIAL ESSAOUIRA
When we were planning this trip, Emma, our specialist, urged us to spend some days on the Atlantic coast, even though it normally wouldn’t have crossed our minds to do so. After three days in Marrakech, our driver took us on the half-day trip across the Argan Valley (where yes, the goats really do stand in trees) to the fishing port of Essaouira. As before, we were met by our guide and led into the medina – less frantic than Marrakech, but no less historic. Originally a Carthaginian seaport with a later Portuguese fort, it’s more recently famous for being a Game of Thrones location: Astapor, home of the Unsullied. In the heart of the medina, we arrived at the Riad Watier to a warm and genuine welcome and another delightful stay.
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