Brake & Front End by Babcox Media

■ Control Arm Replacement ■ Spotting California Converters ■ TPMS Corrosion Issues

MAGAZINE

BrakeandFrontEnd.com May 2013

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TECH FEATURE: ABS Function

CONTENTS 36

ABS Service

Control Arms

How software is changing braking. Changes in brake technology used to be hardware based. Today, electronics are driving most of the advancements in braking technology.

Why do they wear out? Ball and socket joints, like ball joints, tie rods and sway bar links, wear out. To properly inspect these joints for wear, you must use you hands and eyes.

Wheel Bearing & Wheel Speed Sensors Replacing a wheel bearing involves dealing with a wheel speed sensor.

The average wheel bearing job may require a scan tool, scope or a meter to verify the operation of the wheel speed sensor. Publisher Jim Merle, ext. 280 email: jmerle@babcox.com

Managing Editor Tim Fritz, ext. 218 email: tfritz@babcox.com

Ad Services Director Cindy Ott, ext. 209 email: cott@babcox.com

Editor Andrew Markel, ext. 296 email: amarkel@babcox.com

Technical Editor Larry Carley

Circulation Manager Pat Robinson, ext. 276 email: probinson@babcox.com

Graphic Designer Dan Brennan, ext. 283 email: dbrennan@babcox.com

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DEPARTMENTS Columns 6 Viewpoint 8 ASE Test Tip 12 Brake Lights 14 Industry Review 20 Gonzo’s Toolbox 24 Alignment Specs 34 Tool Cool: Caliper Gauges 42 Brake Pulsation 48 TPMS Sensor Corrosion 52 Catalytic Converters 64 Parasitic Draw 66 Tech Tips 72 Product Showcase 75 RAPID RESPONSE 76 Classifieds 80 Brake Job Pointers

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IN THIS ISSUE: Auto-Video Inc. TPMS Sensor Corrosion Catalytic Converter Replacement

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BRAKE & FRONT END (ISSN 0193-726X) (May 2013, Volume 85, Number 5): Published monthly by Babcox Media, 3550 Embassy Parkway, Akron, OH 44333 U.S.A. Phone (330) 670-1234, FAX (330) 670-0874. Periodical postage paid at Akron, OH 44333 and additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to BRAKE & FRONT END, P.O. Box 13260, Akron, OH 44334-3913. BRAKE & FRONT END is a trademark of Babcox Publications, Inc. registered with the U.S. Patent and Trademark office. All rights reserved. A limited number of complimentary subscriptions are available to individuals who meet the qualification requirements. Call (330) 670-1234, Ext. 260, to speak to a subscription services representative or FAX us at (330) 670-5335. Paid Subscriptions are available for non-qualified subscribers at the following rates: U.S.: $69 for one year. Canada: $89 for one year. Canadian rates include GST. Ohio residents add current county sales tax. Other foreign rates/via air mail: $129 for one year. Payable in advance in U.S. funds. Mail payment to BRAKE & FRONT END, P.O. Box 75692, Cleveland, OH 44101-4755. VISA, MasterCard or American Express accepted.

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Viewpoint

By Andrew Markel | Editor

Here is my list of what is “in and out” this month If you have your own, please send them to me at amarkel@babcox.com. In: Being able to re-flash and calibrate computer modules. Out: Longer than normal time downloading a file because someone is watching Netflix in the front office. In: Calling yourself a mechanic. Out: Everyone calling himself or herself a technician. In: Not leaving the bay by using your smartphone or tablet to look something up. Out: Realizing that you need your “cheater” glasses to read it. In: ABS, ESC and traction control preventing major accidents. Out: ABS and traction control preventing you from doing a wicked burnout or donut. In: Being able to rebuild a caliper. Out: Scratching the bore with a screwdriver trying to install the piston seal. In: Buying Google AdWord for mobile to attract new customers. Out: Dealing with a Facebook page for your shop.

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In: Getting control of your Yelp profile. Out: Realizing all the reviews are from your best buddy and are poorly written. In: Doing your own landscaping to improve the look of your shop. Out: Realizing that compressed air does not make a good gardening tool way too late. In: Wearing safety glasses. Out: Trying to find a pair that does not look too dorky. In: Buying a grill for the shop so your staff can enjoy a good burger or hot dog for lunch. Out: Having to clean it. In: Selling scrap metal for money. Out: Scary scrap collectors scaring away your customers. In: Having the right TPMS service kit in stock. Out: Breaking a stem because it is corroded. In: Talking to a counterman that understands what other parts might need to be replaced. Out: Customers bring in parts they bought on the Internet.

In: Using Motorist Assurance Program (MAP) (www.motorist.org) practices and standards for communicating with the customer. Out: Trying to sell a customer muffler bearings. In: Using a waste oil burner to keep your shop warm in the winter. Out: Running out of waste oil on the coldest day of the year. In: Customers who take care of their vehicles. Out: People who sell their car because they are afraid in might break down on them. Out: OEMs that feed this trend to increase sales. In: Finding a good fleet customer. Out: Used car dealers who want the least work done for the lowest price. In: Tool truck drivers that are consistent. Out: Tool truck drivers who drink your coffee and are never about to warrantee tools. In: Training. Out: Send cars to the dealer. ■

ASE A5 Quick Tip

New Stuff For The A5 Brought to You By AVI & Brake & Front End

f you took the ASE A5 test a few years ago and are retaking the test this year, there have been a few changes. The most dramatic changes are in section F of the required task list for electronic brake control. The section comprises seven question and counts towards 17% of your score.

HERE IS THE NEW STUFF • Diagnose electronic brake control system, electronic control(s), components, and circuits using on-board diagnosis and/or recommended test equipment; determine needed repairs. • Remove and install electronic brake control system components following manufacturers’ procedures and specifications; observe proper placement of components and routing of wiring harness. • Test, diagnose and service electronic brake control system sensors (such as speed, yaw, steering angle, brake pedal position, etc.) and circuits following manufacturers’ recommended procedures (includes output signal, resistance, shorts to voltage/ground, and frequency data). In a nutshell, they want you to be able to service and understand the operational theory behind Electronic Stability Control (ESC) systems. This includes how the sensors operate and the serial data buses they use to share information. In previous tests, scan tool usage was only vaguely discussed. This year, the test will discuss how to look at senor data from wheelspeed sensors, steering angle and yaw/accelerometers. While the

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test is tool brand neutral, know the basic theory of how the scan tool can monitor the brake system and bi-directionally control the system for testing and bleeding. Also, brush up on reflashing, recalibrating and reprogramming modules and sensors. There is sure to be a question on the test this year about “technician A” replacing a part and “technician B” saying it is defective. Also, brush up on your active wheel-speed sensor diagnostics. You need to know that these sensor produce a square wave and how they differ from passive sensors. Also, you need to know what type of resistance test works with what sensor.

LIST OF ARTICLES THAT CAN HELP YOU PASS THE A5: • Wheel-Speed Sensor Diagnostic: Meter and Scope Methods, Brake & Front End, September 2012, page 48; • Steering Angles Sensor Diagnostics, Brake & Front End, July 2012, page 40; • ABS HCU Diagnostics, Brake & Front End, October 2012, page 12; • Re-Flashing Repairs, Brake & Front End, October 2012, page 60; • Wheel Bearing Hub Q&A, Brake & Front End, March 2013, page 36; • ABS Solenoid Diagnostics, Brake & Front End, April 2013, page 30; and • Diagnosis of Accelerometers & Yaw Sensors, Brake & Front End, April 2013, page 22. ■

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Brake Lights

“A customer came in and said the brakes were making noise, and then stopped all of the sudden, we found this.”– Kyle Peterson -Sears Automotive, Grand Junction Colorado Do you have your own bad brakes story and pictures? If you do, it could be worth $75 and, if selected, your story could appear in

BRAKE & FRONT END. Send digital pictures and your contact information to:

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Industry Review

Tenneco’s Monroe Ride & Drive Program Expands Locations, Adds Industry Training Events in 2013 Tenneco announced plans to attract nearly 10,000 attendees to its 45-stop calendar for 2013. Tenneco also has plans to take the Monroe Ride & Drive seminar to several key industry training schools, including VISION Hi-Tech Training Expo in Kansas City, MO, which took place in March. Now in its 12th year, the Monroe Ride & Drive program was designed to help technicians identify the characteristics and differences of worn versus properly functioning ride control components and to recognize the impact these components have on overall vehicle safety. “We’re proud to continue to offer such a critical educational initiative to the aftermarket,” said Chuck Osgood, manager of training and sales operations, North American aftermarket, Tenneco. “It’s such a small investment of time compared to the remarkable value you’ll bring back to your customers.” The 2013 Monroe Ride & Drive program also fea-

tures enhanced curriculum, including key new ride control trends, exclusive training in innovative undercar technologies and the hands-on ride and drive training experience. This premier driving experience gives service technicians an opportunity to compare the steering, stopping and stability characteristics of vehicles with worn OE ride control components and new Monroe ride control replacement components. To find out when the Monroe Ride & Drive program will visit your region, visit the “Events” page on www.monroe.com to see the most current schedule, and to register to participate in an upcoming event.

NUCAP Announces Industry-First 100 Percent Brake Pad Performance Guarantee NUCAP has announced its industry-first 100 percent brake pad performance guarantee on all brake pads manufactured with NUCAP’s NRS technology. “Brake Pads produced using NUCAP’s NRS technology provide a mechanical bond that eliminates any chance for edge lift, rust jacking or delamination,” said Jayson Keever, vice president of global marketing for NUCAP. “Our extensive research indicates that edge lift is one of the main causes of brake pad failure. Our NRS technology was designed to eliminate this, and we feel so strongly about the benefits of NRS that we’re backing all pads that include it, regardless of the manufacturer.” Starting May 1, 2013, NUCAP

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will launch its guarantee on all brands of brake pads using its NRS Retention System. For brake pads experiencing delamination during their useful life, NUCAP will reimburse customers a flat $250 toward the cost of those brake pads and labor. “Brake pads featuring NRS are safer, experience less noise and last longer, and with our 100 percent guarantee, there’s never been a better time to switch to pads with NRS,” said Keever. “We’re certain that less delamination will result in more profitable installers and happier vehicle owners.” Learn more about the NUCAP 100 percent brake pad performance guarantee at www.nucap.com/guarantee.

Mighty Auto Parts Celebrates 50 Years Of Automotive Industry Success Mighty Auto Parts, a Wall Street Journal “Top 25” franchisor and automotive aftermarket parts distributor headquartered in Norcross, Ga., is celebrating 50 successful years in the automotive industry. The privately held company has been supplying original equipment (OE) manufacturer-quality parts, along with training, technology, systems and sales support since founder Dallas “Dick” Wallace began direct-selling parts in 1963, using his VW as a mobile office. Continues on page 16

Industry Review Continued from page 14

Today, the company helps more than 12,000 auto repair professionals, including new and used car dealers, independent repair shops, tire centers and national quick-service chains, profitably manage and grow an exceedingly complex business, where both technical and operational skills must constantly evolve. In addition to a wide range of OE underhood and undercar replacement parts, Mighty provides technical training and systems support to help auto service businesses excel in every area of fixed operations. Mighty and its 114 locally owned franchisees provide inventory management based on local vehicles-in-operation data and trends, not national averages, along with customized marketing programs that help create customer satisfaction and retention. “We started with the simple idea of personalized, direct parts distribution to our nation’s auto service providers 50 years ago, and that philosophy of putting people first hasn’t changed,” said Ken Voelker, president and CEO of Mighty Auto Parts. “In fact, it’s our focus on the human factor that allows Mighty to consistently anticipate and meet the needs of our customers no matter how rapidly our industry changes.”

Raybestos Training Module Expands Techs’ Professional Skills Technicians can further enhance their installation and service skills with e-learning training modules from Raybestos chassis parts — a member of the Affinia family of brands. The training module is available at www.RaybestosChassis.com and can be studied free of charge. The Raybestos Advanced Certified Education (ACE) program increases educational opportunities for technicians and service writers who sell Raybestos chassis product. The e-train-

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Industry Review ing module offered by Affinia Tech Training presents the ideal customer service engagement when assessing chassis repairs and addressing customer concerns. The e-training modules offer technicians these time-saving and money-saving benefits: • Identify and resolve undercar problems more effectively; • Make it easier to present and sell appropriate parts and service; • Learn key advantages of Professional Grade products; • Reduce comebacks for work that doesn’t meet customer expectations; and • Increase loyalty with existing customers and grow business with new customers. For more information, visit www.RaybestosChassis.com or call 800-323-3022.

Standard Motor Products Named Federated Outstanding Vendor Of The Year

For the second consecutive year, the Federated Auto Parts membership has selected Standard Motor Products (SMP) as its Outstanding Vendor of the Year. “When we tallied up the votes for the Outstanding Vendor of the Year, it was nearly a photo finish between many competent suppliers, but one stood out as the overall winner, Standard Motor Products,” said Bo Fisher, Continues on page 18

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BrakeandFrontEnd.com 17

Industry Review Continued from page 17 chairman of Federated Auto Parts. “SMP earned our top honor again this year because of their commitment to excellence in areas such as education, plus their creativity in new products and market segments. We congratulate SMP and thank them for their dedication to the success of our membership.” Fisher presented Federated’s most prestigious vendor award to Standard Motor Products during the group’s national meeting and annual awards dinner held April 25 in Orlando, Fla. Accepting the award on behalf of SMP were Bill Collins, Robert Frick, Matt Guden, Bob Kimbro, Alex Simmons and Ken Wendling. In addition to the Outstanding Vendor of the Year award, Federated presented its Outstanding Supplier Support Awards to its supplier partners that excelled in five key categories: Education and Training Vendor of the Year – Denso Electronic Cataloging Vendor of the Year – Dorman Marketing Vendor of the Year – Federal-Mogul Order Fill Vendor of the Year – East Penn Sales Representation Vendor of the Year – Gates “Each year, Federated members choose the supplier partners that stand out in areas important to the overall success of Federated. It takes teamwork to be successful and we thank these deserving MVP suppliers for their outstanding performance for the Federated team,” said Federated CEO Rusty Bishop.

Automotive Parts Associates

Treats Race Fans To Kansas Speedway Weekend Continuing its tradition of assisting members in boosting profits with promotions, sweepstakes and incentive trips, Automotive Parts Associates (APA) recently treated six enthusiastic race fans to the excitement of Kansas Speedway in oncein-a-lifetime fashion. Mike and Lisa Wilson from Campbell’s Auto Service in Riverview, New Brunswick, Canada; Steve and Denise Doney from Hometown Tire in Williston, VT; and Larry and Larry Schultz from Larry’s Service Center in Linden, WI, were the lucky six people who came to Kansas City on an allexpenses paid trip. Beyond meeting NASCAR drivers, getting autographs and photos, and hanging out in the garages and even the pits, the winners watched two races with mostly cooperative weather. This Speedway Weekend is an annual promotion for Automotive Parts Associates, but this is the first year it’s been held in conjunction with the April race. The promotion ran from January through March of this year and Professionals’ Choice Warehouse Distributors gave every customer who purchased a product from one of the sponsoring manufacturers an entry form for a chance to win. The sponsors were: Airtex Fuel, ASC Industries, Bosch, Denso, Dorman, Federal-Mogul, FRAM, Gates, KYB, MAS, NGK and SKF. For more information, visit www.professionalschoice.com. Go to www.bfeRAPIDRESPONSE.com

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Gonzo’s Tool Box By Scott “Gonzo” Weaver Gonzosae@aol.com

Taking a Leap of Faith When Relying on Your Knowledge and Expertise is the Best Diagnostic Plan

ven with the best information available to the professional tech, there are times when some things just don’t add up or are omitted in the description of how a certain system works. Dealing with unforeseen problems ends up in a neverending stumbling block of false leads, misguided diagnostics, or, for the lack of better term, a typical “snafu.” There are a lot of situations when the tech just has to trust his own judgment and go with what seems right, rather than what all the information is suggesting. Call it a gut instinct, dumb luck or maybe a professional guess, but that may be all you have to go on. Case in point, a body shop sent over a pickup truck with the “Check Gauges” light stuck on. The gauges checked fine, there were no service codes, and no apparent reason why this warning light should be stuck on. They all matched their actual readings — from the segment tests on the individual gauges, to the values from each of the gauges. Plus, the gas gauge was spot on, and nothing regarding the water temp, charging system, etc. looked

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out of place. I called the body shop and asked them what they repaired and what components they changed. As it turns out, the problem was the result of a rather light hit on the driver’sside front fender area. There was no frame damage and no major components were replaced.

With my initial tests completed, everyone was leaning toward a problem with the dash cluster itself, but I wasn’t convinced. Since it was an insurance job, the pressure from the body shop and the insurance company to find the answer was by just replacing

the cluster, than it was to challenge the results. For me, it comes down to test, retest and test again. I just couldn’t bring myself to replacing the cluster just yet. I wanted some definitive proof before going through all the hassle of reprogramming, and setting the mileage and security system. If the gauges tested good, how can I justify calling them bad? The more I conducted various tests, the more confused I got. I poured over the description of how the “check gauges” functioned. I was hoping to find some clue that might tell me what I was missing. Nothing stood out — absolutely nothing. I needed to take that leap of faith that I was right and it wasn’t the cluster. It was a big gamble, I’ll have to admit. I stuck with the idea that the tests were accurate and the problem had to be around the damaged area. There again, not knowing what I was looking for put me in the position that it was all “blind faith” that my test results were right, that I was right and there was something else wrong. Then, after removing the inner fender, I found a two-wire

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Gonzo’s Tool Box

connector dangling all by itself. As I moved the wire through the space, using the wire length to give me some idea as to where it might go, it ended up at the bottom of the battery tray. It’s the battery temperature sensor connector. I’ve run across these being disconnected on older models before, and it’s always associated with a code, but not this time. After plugging it in, the “check gauges” warning went out. Just to verify the whole thing, I unplugged the sensor and tried it again, and, sure enough, the “check gauges” warning light stayed off. I still think it’s pretty odd that in all of the operating descriptions, there was never any mention of the battery temperature sensor as part of the “check gauges” warning system. It’s not the first time I’ve run into something that didn’t make sense or that wasn’t explained in a way where I could understand the engineering behind it. You’d like to think that every possible scenario has been checked and double-checked by the engineers, or Go to www.bfeRAPIDRESPONSE.com

at least they’d mention something about it like: “Oh, by the way, we tied the battery temp sensor to the ‘check gauges’ warning light, and thought you might like to know. And, don’t worry, the gauges are fine.” It seems that with all the sophistication we’ve added to these modern cars, there are still some things that haven’t been fully explored regarding the possibilities that could arise. These “leaps of faith” in today’s marketplace don’t leave any room for exploratory surgery to isolate these problems, and unless you knew about these quirky problems beforehand, your diagnostic time could get lengthy. I can’t say every answer is in a scanner or manual. Techs have always had to find solutions to a lot of problems that were not even thought to be problems when these systems were created, especially when a certain circuit or communication line gets crossed up and throws a monkey-wrench into your diagnostic plan. ■

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Alignment Spec

Sponsored by:

Bent Arms and Struts N ormal driving usually won’t knock the wheels out of alignment or damage the suspension. However, normal driving also involves encounters with the unexpected, which often includes potholes, curbs, railroad crossings (which are famous for being rough), parking lot speed bumps and other things that jar and stress the suspension. For this reason, periodic alignment checks are a good way to ensure proper wheel alignment and to detect damaged, worn or bent parts that might need attention. Take a bent steering arm, for example. A bent arm will change toe alignment. Toe misalignment can scrub the rubber off a set of tires as fast as any lead-footed teenager with an attitude. Only 1/8 inch of toe misalignment produces scrub equivalent to dragging the tire sideways 28 feet for every mile that’s traveled! So if you see a feathered wear pattern on the tires or what looks like camber wear on the inside or outside shoulders of both front tires (radials primarily), toe is probably out of alignment. Shoulder wear on both outside edges can be caused by toe-in while shoulder wear on both inside edges can result from toe-out. Measuring the distance between each control arm and wheel is another way to find a

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Damage in a knuckle may result in a distorted bearing bore.

bent steering arm. Both distances should be the same on both sides of the vehicle. If one arm is closer or further from the wheel than the other, it will not allow equal toe changes on both sides when the wheels are steered. Pulling down the suspension and checking for uneven toe changes side-to-side is yet another “trick” that can be used to find this kind of “hidden” damage. If a steering arm is bent, one side will show a greater toe change than the other. If you find evidence of a bent arm (unequal toe-out change or a difference in the distance from the steering arm to the wheel side-to-side), it may not be obvious which arm is the one that is bent. Obviously, there is a difference, but which arm is the one that is bent? You may have to compare steering arm to wheel meas-

urements on another vehicle of the same year, make and model to determine which arm is bent.

CAMBER CLUES Camber can affect directional stability. A vehicle will lead towards the side with the most camber. So always compare camber readings on both sides. More than half a degree difference can cause a steering pull. If camber is off on one side only, a close encounter with a pothole or curb may have bent a spindle, control arm or strut. A shift in the position of a strut tower can cause the same thing. A shift in the position of a crossmember, on the other hand, will usually change camber on both sides. One way to identify hidden damage that may be affecting camber is to do a “jounce/rebound camber check.” Raise the suspension

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Alignment Spec

Even with the toe adjusted and the steering wheel straight, a bent steering arm can cause the SIA to be out of specification. The same also applies to bent strut rods and camber.

four inches and read camber on both sides. Then compress the suspension four inches and read the camber angles for both wheels again. Different camber readings sideto-side with a jounce/rebound camber check usually indicates a bent strut that needs to be replaced or straightened. If the readings are the same, a check of the “steering axis inclination” (SAI) angle side-to-side should also be made.

SAI, THE DIAGNOSTIC ANGLE You can zero in on the hidden damage (a bent or mislocated strut, bent control arm and/or bent spindle) by comparing the SAI angle, camber reading and “included angle” (the angle between camber and SAI). Here’s another way to check for strut problems. Loosen the two camber adjustment cam bolts on the strut (if provided), push the steering knuckles in as far as they’ll go towards negative camber and measure the distance between the strut and brake rotor on both sides. Then compare readings. If both distances are the same, you can rule out misalignment at the bottom end of the strut or a bent spindle. If they’re Go to www.bfeRAPIDRESPONSE.com

different, one of the struts is bent. Bending a strut to “realign” the front end is no answer because you shouldn’t fix one problem by creating another. Bending a strut may bring camber back into range — assuming the wheel isn’t off more than one and a half degrees (which is the maximum limit for bending any strut). But bending a perfectly good strut to compensate for misalignment elsewhere is going to create unequal camber changes side-to-side during jounce and rebound which may create a bump steer condition. There is also a risk of weakening the strut, which may lead to strut failure later. To check for a bent strut shaft, loosen the large shaft nut at the top of each strut and rotate the shaft 360 degrees while keeping an eye on the camber reading. If the shaft is bent, the top of the wheel will wobble in and out, and the camber reading will change as the shaft turns. No change in the camber reading means there’s nothing wrong with the strut. A strut with a bent shaft must be replaced. There’s no way to safely straighten this kind of damage because attempting to bend a hardened shaft will likely crack it. ■

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ABS Function

HOW SOFTWARE IS T By Larry Carley

here was a time when advancements in brake technology were entirely hardware based. The change from drum brakes to disc brakes, the introduction of semi-metallic and ceramic brake pads, and the addition of power brakes as standard equipment were all changes that were all achieved by redesigned and improved brake system components. Today, electronics is driving most of the advancements in braking technology. It started with anti-lock brakes (ABS). When ABS became part of the brake system, the ability to control individual brake circuits electronically opened up a whole new

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world of possibilities. One was to get rid of the mechanical brake proportioning valve so the rear brakes could handle a greater percentage of the braking load to reduce stopping distances. Electronic Brake Distribution is now common on many vehicles. Traction control and stability control came next. With the help of the ABS pump and high pressure accumulator, traction control can apply the brakes as needed to prevent or control wheel spin. On some applications, it functions like a limited slip differential to improve traction on slippery surfaces. Stability control employs individual wheel braking to counter oversteer

and understeer. This improves handling stability and reduces the risk of rollovers in SUVs and other vehicles.

BRAKE PRE-CHARGING As braking technology evolved, the next step was to make the brake system smarter. On some vehicles, the brakes can now anticipate stops even before the driver can react. By monitoring throttle position and vehicle speed, software changes allow the brake system to pre-charge the brakes the instant the driver's foot lets up on the accelerator pedal. Light pressure is applied to the brakes in anticipation that the brakes will soon be applied. According to research per-

ABS Function formed by Audi, priming the brakes reduces the time it takes to apply the brakes by 100 to 200 milliseconds. At 80 mph, this can reduce the overall stopping distance by 23 feet or about one car length â&#x20AC;&#x201D; which may be enough to avoid or mitigate a collision. "Brake Assist" is a variation of this approach that senses when the driver is braking hard as opposed to braking normally. By monitoring the rate at which the brake pedal is being depressed, the system can increase the amount of brake force to help the vehicle stop more quickly. Additional inputs from the ABS wheel speed sensors, vehicle speed sensor, yaw and acceleration sensors and accelerator pedal may also be used to determine if the vehicle is braking normally or if the driver is slamming on the brakes.

One some Mercedes applications, things get a bit tricky. To deactivate the brake system, remove the keyless entry fob from the vehicle, then lock the doors. Move the key out of range from the vehicle so the system cannot be accidentally activated. After 30 seconds, the Sensotronic braking system should time out and go into sleep mode. Do not unlock the vehicle while any brake work is being performed and do not touch the brake pedal. Once the work has been completed, the system needs to be reactivated using a multi-step procedure that involves cycling the ignition on and off once, then quickly cycling the steering wheel side to side. This will wake up the system and cause it to pre-charge the brakes.

REDUCING BRAKE FADE On some vehicles, the brake controller monitor brakes use when the ABS, traction control or stability control systems are intervening. The controller keeps track of vehicle speed and to what extent the brakes are being used so the brakes don't get too hot. If the controller estimates the brakes are overheating

CHANGING BRAKING

One caution you have to keep in mind when working on vehicles that have some type of brake precharging system is that the brakes have to be disabled before you begin any work on them. If the vehicles does not have a manual deactivation switch, this may require using a factory scan tool or aftermarket bidirectional scan tool to access the vehicle's brake controller so it can be turned off. Another option would be to locate the brake controller fuse and remove it. On applications where the ABS pump and high pressure accumulator are used for power-assisted braking, the high pressure accumulator should be completely discharged before you open any hydraulic lines. Pumping the brake pedal 30 to 40 times with the ignition key OFF can do this.

(which occurs around 900 degrees F.), it may temporarily discontinue ABS, traction control and/or stability control to give the brakes a chance to cool down. A similar approach is used by BMW with their "Brake Fade Compensation" system. In 2006, BMW made software changes to its ABS systems on its 3-series models that allows the brake controller to compensate for brake fade under hard use by increasing the amount of power-assist provided by the ABS pump. The software algorithm can estimate fairly accurately the temperature of the brake pads without using an actual brake pad temperature sensor to predict how much the brakes are starting to fade. As the calculated pad temperature goes up, the sysBrakeandFrontEnd.com 29

ABS Function

tem applies more power assist to compensate for any loss of friction. This provides a more consistent pedal feel without decreasing braking effectiveness or increasing stopping distances. On most vehicles, the driver has to press harder and harder on the brake pedal when the brakes are getting really hot to maintain the same braking effectiveness. On some cars and SUVs, the brakes start to fade rather quickly when they are subjected to repeated hard braking. But it does provide a feedback signal to the driver to back off a bit so the brakes can cool. If the driver fails to realize what is happening, and continues to ride the brakes, the brakes may get so hot that they fail completely â&#x20AC;&#x201D; and that's something nobody wants! Because brake fade compensation is programmed for the hot friction characteristics of the original equipment brake pads, it should be obvious that any

replacement brake

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pads for these vehicles should have friction characteristics that closely match the original pads. If somebody installs pads that vary too much from the original pads, the amount of brake fade compensation applied may not match the fade characteristics of the new pads, resulting in too much compensation or not enough. This is something that both friction suppliers and technicians will have to keep in mind as these more sophisticated braking systems come into greater use.

HILL HOLDING Software tweaks to the brake controller can also provide a "Hill Holding" feature on some vehicles. Monitoring the movement of the wheels via the wheel speed sensors and the position of the gear shift lever and clutch pedal position allows the brake controller to detect any rolling forwards or backwards when the vehicle stops on an incline. The system applies the brakes to prevent the vehicle from rolling while it is

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ABS Function stopped, then releases the brakes when the clutch starts to engage. This makes it easier for drivers who are not very adept at driving a stick shift to stop on hilly terrain. On some SUVs, such as Jeeps, software changes allow the brakes and stability control system to provide a "Hill Descent" feature. This allows the driver to concentrate on steering and take his foot completely off the brake pedal when descending a steep offroad trail. The hill descent system monitors the rate of decent and uses individual wheel braking to keep the vehicle straight as it descends the hill at a safe pace.

"Adaptive Cruise Control" systems that allow a vehicle to maintain a consistent following distance as the pace of traffic changes. Most use radar to measure the distance to the vehicle in front, but some use optical systems. When the lead vehicle slows, the adaptive cruise control system automatically applies gradual braking to maintain a safe following distance. If the vehicle ahead suddenly brakes, some systems will give a hard pulse to the brake to alert the driver while others will take over and apply the brakes if the driver fails to react in time.

AUTOMATIC BRAKING ADAPTIVE BRAKING Software has also allowed the brakes to be integrated with

By adding hardware that can see the road ahead (radar or optical cameras, or both), automatic brak-

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ing has even become a reality on some high-end luxury vehicles. Volvo, Mercedes and others now offer some type of automatic braking system that will apply the brakes if the driver fails to react. These systems detect cars and other objects ahead of the vehicle with their radar or optical systems. The relative rate of closure is constantly being calculated to determine if the driver needs to be warned. If the driver fails to slow down or brake, a warning light may flash or a chime sound. If the driver still fails to react, the automatic braking system takes over and either begins to slow down the vehicle (collision mitigation braking) or bring it to a complete stop. Some of these systems only slow the vehicle above a certain speed while others may apply full braking as needed. It's essential that the drivers of these vehicles fully understand how their automatic braking system works, what it will do and won't do, and when it will and won't intervene. On Volvo's XC60 City Safe system, for example, full automatic braking is only used at low speeds and does not intervene at speeds above 18 mph. Volvo says up to 75% of all accidents occur at speeds of less than 30 km/h. So an automatic braking system that can prevent or lessen the severity of accidents within this speed range has the potential of significantly reducing insurance claims and repair costs. Some SUVs are also combining automatic braking with object detection when backing up. Visibility behind many SUVs is very limited from the driver's seat, so automatic braking kicks in if the ultrasonic backup sensors detect anything behind the vehicle while it is backing up. â&#x2013;

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Tool Cool

By Andrew Markel, Editor

Caliper Clamping Force Gauges I n most cases, the clamping force gauges are installed in place of the inner brake pad. Once in place, the caliper pistons are pumped out to take up the gap and then clamping pressure is measured. This is not a direct measure of the pressure in the brake system. It is the amount of force being generated by the caliper pistons. If you had the caliper piston’s diameter, you could use the result of this test to calculate the pressure in the brake system. The clamping force of each caliper should be roughly equal. There is not much in the way of guidelines to say how much side-to-side difference is acceptable, so you have to use common sense. Again, theoretically, the clamping

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force should be equal, but real-world results will not always show this. A rule of thumb I follow is unless the side-to-side difference can be associated with a symptom, such as premature pad wear or brake pull, don’t worry about it. These tools will directly help identify sticking caliper pistons and indirectly help identify hydraulic restrictions.

ABS APPLICATIONS A clamping force gauge can also be used to diagnosis ABS and Electronic Brake Distribution (EBD) HCU problems. One of the most common failures for HCUs can be dump/isolation valves that are stuck open. This problem can be the most elusive to diagnose. Solenoid valves can remain open due to contaminated brake fluid, rust and sediment. Also, copper from the brazing materials in the hard lines is attracted to the valves and seats of the solenoids. Symptoms can range from the rear pads wearing out early to pulling condition going away only when the ABS is activated. Use the clamping force gauge in the bay to measure differences side-to-side and frontto-back. ■

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Control Arm

By Andrew Markel

Why do Automotive Ball Joints, Tie Rods and Control Arms Wear Out?

he ball and socket joint has been around on animals and humans for millennia. This simple design has been used on vehicles since the turn of the century because it works. But, just like our hip joints, ball and socket joints, like ball joints, tie rods and sway bar links, wear out. If you went to the doctor and in the examination he pulled out a pry bar and a large set of pliers, you might get a little scared and fear that his diagnosis might be more damaging than the actual problem. The same is true for ball joints and tie rods. Any OEM- or suspension manufacturer-recommended procedure for inspecting a ball-type joint rarely involves a pry bar and almost never involves a set of pliers. Just like a doctor, you must use your hands and eyes.

BALL JOINTS Unlike a rubber bushing, a spherical ball joint is designed to pivot through multiple planes. Of course, because the ball joint constantly pivots at different angles, it tends to wear more rapidly than do bushings. Ball joints can be broken down into the load-bearing and non-load (follower) bearing categories. A load-bearing ball joint is designed to support the weight of the vehicle while providing a hinge point for the steering system. Most load-bearing ball joints are designed to cancel the effects of normal wear by centering themselves in their own sockets. Non-load-bearing ball joints or follower style, on the other hand, are designed to

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Control Arm

maintain precise dimensional tolerances in a steering or suspension system. Wear in a nonload-bearing ball joint will cause a noticeable change in the camber, caster or toe angle of a front suspension. Consequently, non-load-bearing joints are preloaded in order to compensate for wear. Unloaded control arm ball joints, for example, should be tested for preload when the suspension system is disassembled. A ball joint is made up of a housing, ball stud, bearings, end cover and Belleville washer or spring. A Belleville washer is a conical-shaped spring designed to be loaded in the axial direction. The joint is attached to a control arm by pressing the joint into the arm or riveting the joint to the arm. If the joint is pressed into the arm, it will require a special tool to remove the old joint and install the new one. Failed pressed joints can be difficult to remove because of corrosion between the control arm and joint. This is especially true

where a steel ball joint housing is pressed into an aluminum control arm. When the joint is riveted to the control arm, the rivets are drilled out or cut with a air chisel. The new joint is replaced using bolts and locking nuts. Tie rod end ball joints, on the other hand, are more tolerant of wear. Providing an assistant is available to turn the steering wheel of the vehicle in a parked position, the “dry-park” testing method will indicate excessive wear in most tie rod ends. Inner tie rod ends found on steering racks should be tested for excess wear by listening for a knocking or clicking noise as the steering is turned. Whatever the method used, remember that small amounts of wear in each tie rod end can add up to a major variation in toe angle. Technicians often have a problem locating valid specifications for ball joint testing. In many cases, a vehicle manufacturer’s warranty tolerances are simply too liberal for real-world alignment situations. In other cases, a manufacturer simply leaves the issue to the technician’s individual judgment. This allows for the realworld effects that cumulative bushing and ball joint wear will have on the steering and suspension system as a whole. If you use a pry bar and brute strength, your inspection could

be influenced by the bushings in the control arms. If you use a set of “water pump pliers” to compress a tie rod, it will give you a false reading almost every time and is not a measure of wear for some types of tie rods; even some new tie rods will compress. It may look dramatic to the customer, but it could get you in a load of trouble. Many disreputable shops have used this technique to increase sales and many repair shop regulators disapprove of this method. Ford and other OEMs recommend technicians use their hands to pull and push on tie rods to feel for play.

BrakeandFrontEnd.com 37

Control Arm BALL JOINT INSPECTION Some ball joints that have a grease fitting use the fitting as a wear indicator. If a grease gun will not couple to the fitting, the joint needs to be replaced. As the joint wears, the Belleville washer or spring maintains the

tension on the bearings to maintain zero axial endplay as the control arms move. Lateral wear causes the ball stud to move inside the bearing. It can affect camber and tire wear. The Belleville washer or spring will not compensate for lateral wear.

INSPECTION Loaded Joint: To check a loaded ball joint, place a jack or jack stand under the lower control arm to support the weight of the vehicle. Attach a dial indicator to the lower control arm and locate the dial in a vertical position to measure axial runout at the steering knuckle. In the case of an all-wheel-drive front ride strut or independent RWD, it may be necessary to mount the dial at the CV joint. Moving the steering knuckle can check lateral runout. For a SLA suspension that has the coil spring over the top arm, the upper joint is loaded. To check the joint, the upper control arm is supported to unload the joint. If the ball joint has a built-in wear indicator, joint play should be checked while the vehicle is on its wheels. Follower Joint: To check a follower-type joint, the Belleville washer or spring is loaded or compressed to check for axial end play. For a strut-type suspension, place a jack stand under the cradle to allow the strut to fully extend. Attach the dial indicator clamp to the lower control arm and locate the dial in a vertical position to measure axial runout at the steering knuckle. Place a jack under the ball joint and load the joint by raising the jack. Turn

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Control Arm the steering wheel and observe the ball joint to check lateral runout. For a SLA suspension, the upper control arm can be blocked and the joint can be compressed. Attach a dial indicator to the steering knuckle and place in a vertical or parallel position to measure axial runout at the lower control arm. Moving the steering knuckle can check lateral runout. There are specifications for alignment, ride height and ball joint end play. The overall condition of the chassis is important to the safety and performance of the vehicle. In the area of safety, it is a good practice to cover your assets. Try to convince the owner of the vehicle that it is important to correct all of the conditions that could cause the vehicle not to perform safely. If this is not possible, make sure that all conditions not repaired that affect safety are made a part of the repair order and a disclaimer is attached.

TIE ROD INSPECTION BY THE NUMBER 1. Check the outer tie rod ends by grasping BY

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HAND and push up and down. DO NOT USE A PRY BAR. Check the inner tie rod ends, pushing them front to rear. If any free play is observed in a joint, it is worn and should be replaced. Keep reading for additional Ford and Lincoln tie rod inspection tips. 2. While vehicle is on the ground or on a driveon hoist, have an assistant rotate the steering wheel rapidly back and forth from 10 o’clock to 10 o’clock while observing the inner and outer tie rods. If the outer tie rod ends have any vertical movement or the inner tie rod ends have any horizontal movement, the tie rod end with the observed movement should be replaced. 3. Raise the vehicle and remove the front wheels. The wheels will need to be turned to the right in order to inspect the passenger-side inner tie rod end and to the left to inspect the driver’sside inner tie rod end. Inspect all four seals for tears, perforations and wear. If there is any indication of wear or perforations on the seal, that tie rod end should be replaced. 4. Stud Corrosion: Using a putty knife or other hard, flat, dull object, lift the bottom of the seal up, exposing the stud. If any water escapes from the seal in the form of bubbles or in a liquid form, that tie rod end should be replaced. Closely examine the stud for signs of corrosion, especially around the knuckle. A rag might be needed to clean off any grease on the stud that impairs a good visual inspection. If there is any sign of corrosion, that tie rod end should be replaced. If you find play at the inner tie rod, confirm that it’s the joint, and not the rack bushings, that are worn. If the rack boot allows it, squeeze the boot to feel that the joint is the problem and the rack isn’t loose and moving in the housing. This will also give you an indication if the rack boot needs to be replaced. It’s always a good practice to replace the boot, but you may find it’s easier to obtain a tie rod end rather than a direct-fit boot. Some of the universals fit well, but if you have to order the tie rod end, add the boot kit to the order. With outer joints, it’s a good practice to make note of the length of the rod before the end is removed to get the toe in the ballpark on reassembly; many techs simply count the turns when the rod is removed, but a measurement from the center of the joint to a known point is a good back up. Either way, be sure the toe is within specs before the car is returned. ■

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Brake Job

By James A. Blair, Contributing Writer

A DIFFERENT “ANGLE” ON BRAKE PULSATION THE PROBLEM By now, the majority of technicians know that brake rotor thickness variation is the condition that generates your typical brake pulsation concerns. Hopefully, they also understand that “lateral runout” of the rotor is the underlying culprit. There are many great articles written on the topic of lateral runout and methods of preventing and eliminating it, including, but by no means limited to, cleaning the rotor mounting surfaces, properly torqueing the wheel assembly, and use of an on-the-car brake lathe. In this article however, I would like to examine two atypical causes of thickness variation that can have a “problem vehicle” back at your shop again and again if not addressed. (A problem vehicle will typically be back in about 3000 miles or so!) First of all, even if lateral runout were corrected to absolute zero, it’s only temporary! As a matter of fact, even after refinishing the rotor with an on-the-car brake lathe, you will probably have some runout right after re-installing the wheel! Unless of course, you torque ALL the lug-nuts to specification by turning them equally and at exactly at the same time like the factory installs them!

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The one cause that is not typically addressed, in no small part due to lack of a method, is the brake caliper not releasing the pads sufficiently, which can really only be caused by two things: • The caliper slide mechanism binding causing the outside pad to not properly release; and • The piston sticking in its bore causing both pads to not properly release. Sure, we all clean and lube the caliper slide mechanism(s), right? But what if for example, a caliper bolt has been cross-threaded or bent causing the bolt to be crooked? Or, on a sliding caliper, the knuckle is bent so that the caliper does not slide freely enough? How do we check that?

CHECKING THE SLIDE MECHANISM The easiest and most effec-

tive way to check this is to first clean and service the slide mechanism, then with piston fully retracted and pads removed, bolt the caliper back on. (And, yes, torque the bolts!) Then manually slide the caliper back and forth through its full range of travel while keeping it parallel with the rotor. It should slide smoothly and freely from one end to the other.

CHECKING THE CALIPER PISTON Now, before the piston sticking issue can be addressed, we need to make sure we understand the mechanism that causes the piston to retract in the first place. The caliper piston seal is of a “square cut” design. Note that on the earliest disc brake systems the seal resided in a square groove and the piston did not retract at all. Newer cars, however, have one

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Brake Job minor, but very important modification; the outside edge of the groove (the edge of the groove nearest the inner brake pad) is cut at a slight angle (the angle varies between 15 and 30 deg. depending on manufacturer design). (Fig 1) This angle allows the seal to flex slightly on brake apply (Fig. 1) Then when the brake is released the seal then returns to its normal shape pulling the piston back to its original position. (Fig 2) (It’s important to note that if the pads have worn enough, the seal will actually make contact with the angled edge and stop. The piston will then continue to move, slipping on the seal allowing the piston to adjust for wear.)

Figure 3: Mount the dial indicator

NOW THE QUESTION BECOMES, HOW DO WE VERIFY THAT: 1. The piston is not sticking in its bore. 2. The piston is retracting the desired amount. For example, we could check for piston sticking by using a spring gauge to measure the force required to push the piston back in. Question is, how much force should it take? There is no service specification published that I’m aware of. But I’ll get back to this in a minute. Measuring the retraction is actually fairly easy using the following procedure. CAUTION: Leave the other caliper(s) installed or place a suitable piston stop in it to prevent the piston being pumped out of the caliper! With pads removed, brake hose still connected and piston fully retracted: 1. Mount a dial indicator to the caliper housing and load it 0.020” or so (Fig 3). 2. Have a helper push the brake pedal down SLOWLY until the indicator moves 0.020 or so then hold it until the reading on the dial indicator stabilizes. (Fig 4) 3. Zero the indicator. (Fig 5) 4. Release the brake pedal. 5. Now read the relative movement indicated. (Fig 6) How much did piston retract? It better be at least 0.002” MORE than the manufacturer published lateral runout specification! The 0.002” is based on personal observation after measuring many vehicles, so your mileage may vary. But you got the idea. So, if the piston retracts 0.006”, your spec is 44 May 2013 | BrakeandFrontEnd.com

Figure 4: Load the dial indicator by depressing the brake pedal.

Figure 5: Zero the dial indicator.

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Brake Job

Figure 6: Take the reading. (Note that the dial moves backwards in this application.)

probably going to be 0.004” giving you 0.002” clearance when the brake is released. And, this checks the piston for sticking at the same time as it can’t retract properly if it is sticking in its bore. Piston retraction can also be measured at various intervals throughout the pistons travel. (I have seen several of them stick in only one area.) This works on multiple piston calipers as well due to the fact that it is NOT the hydraulic system, but the piston SEAL that is doing the retracting. So as long as you can depress the brake pedal and get the piston to move the 0.020” or so you need, if working properly it should still retract regardless of the action of the other pistons. So you may have to block the other piston(s) to get the piston you’re checking to move but it still works. Although it really doesn’t take much time once you get the hang of it, I do not check this on every disc brake job that comes through the door. I’ve found it Go to www.bfeRAPIDRESPONSE.com

invaluable however for problem vehicles or those with high mileage and/or calipers too expensive to replace simply on a hunch.

JAMES A. BLAIR • ASE Master Certified • ASE L1 Certified • ASE P2 Certified • ASE Master Engine Machinist Certified From technician, service and parts management, contract trainer, technical representative to shop owner/operator, Blair has worked nearly every facet of the automotive service industry since those parttime jobs at service stations during high-school. Blair has been a full time automotive instructor since 2000. In August 2012, he accepted the lead instructor position at New River Community and Technical College in Ghent, WV, and was tasked with developing both a new automotive and diesel program. ■

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TPMS

By Andrew Markel, Editor

Sensor Corrosion 5 Tips to Help Avoid a Snapped Stem S

ince TPMS became standard equipment in 2008, many sensors are starting to show their age. While some of these sensors may have a lot of battery life left, the sensors stems are starting to fall victim to corrosion. Here are five tips that can help you avoid snapping stems and have the shop eat a sensor.

from seizing. Many manufacturers are finding that their cars in the salt belt states that have the correct aluminum valve caps are still experiencing corrosion and caps are sticking to the stems. Some manufacturers are recommending that you change all the valve stem caps to plastic caps. Depending on where you live, this may be a good proactive course of action.

1. REPLACE VALVE CAPS If someone put a chrome or steel valve cap onto an aluminum stem, there will be galvanic action causing the cap to seize to the stem. The appropriate valve caps are plastic or aluminum or a valve caps that have a nickel coating on the outside to prevent them

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2. ADVISING A CUSTOMER ABOUT STUCK VALVE CORES A valve core stuck in the stem can be a productivity killer and potential problem for your shop and customer. The core can become stuck due to corrosion or crossed threads. You have three options and all options involve telling the customer before possibly snapping off the stem. The first option is to leave it alone and tell the customer about the condition. This can prevent getting a car stuck in the bay or the cus-

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TPMS tomer stuck in your waiting room. The second option is to exceed torque limit when trying to remove the valve core. It could come loose or it could snap the stem. Make sure to sell the customer a sensor before attempting this. The third option is to drill out the old stem, tap the opening and install a specialty replacement stem. All three methods involve telling the customer ahead of time before attempting to remove the valve core. It is not your fault if a stem breaks due to corrosion.

4. NO MORE DISH SOAP AND WATER Water and dish soap have always been the tire technician’s best friend. But, to the TPMS sensor, it can be it’s worst enemy. Water inside the rim and tire can cause corrosion. Also, dry air and humid air have different properties. It will cause the TPMS light to come on sooner as the tire cools or heats up. Use only mounting paste. The price of a small bucket of paste is less than the cost of a comeback.

5. ALWAYS INSTALL A NEW NUT 3. ASK IF PREVIOUS TPMS WORK HAS BEEN PERFORMED If a customer brings a car in with a TPMS light on, ask them if there has been any previous work performed on the vehicle and if any sensors have been replaced. Hopefully, your shop replaced the sensor, but if another shop did the work, you need to check the sensors before you give the customer an accurate estimate. If one or more sensors do not look like the others, you could be stuck in a diagnostic conundrum. Some aftermarket sensors need to be programmed by proprietary methods to clone the OE sensor. This can be a problem if your shop does not have the tool.

The best way to prevent corrosion is to replace the kit every time the sensor is removed or disturbed. The typical kit includes a nut, valve core, grommets and valve cap. Each component has a specific function and lifespan that is not only determined by time, but what happens when – and after – it is installed. This goes for sensors that are six months old or six years old. TPMS fastener nuts are designed in anodized aluminum to eliminate the contact of two dissimilar metals that would create galvanic corrosion and material deterioration. The nut has a bonded lubricant to help provide the proper torque required for seating a new grommet. If a nut is reused, the anodized surface may be scratched away and corrosion could occur between the sensor, wheel and the stem. ■

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Converter

CATALYTIC

CONVERTER Replacement is Changing

f your shop is not in California, the replacement of the catalytic converter is simple and typically there is only one replacement option. Most shops understand that they must replace the converter and that using a test pipe or bypassing the converter is bad for business and against the EPA regulations and could result in big fines. Converters must be certified and be labeled with the correct codes that are stamped into the shell. You can not just install a converter that matches the size and shape. Certified converters may have more precious metals and catalyst biscuits. Another problem is within the calibration of the ECM of the vehicle. California emissionscertified vehicles may have more sensitive oxygen sensor calibrations. If a non-certified converter is used, the efficiency codes may go away at first. But, they could return after the catalyst becomes loaded with contaminates. This year, things are getting complicated. It is starting in New York and will probably impact the other 48 states. The issue is vehicles that were manufactured for the California market find their way to other states. New York is the first state to mandate that a vehicle with California emissions and converters must always be replaced with a CARB-certified converter, even if it is never going back to California. There have been long standing policy debates in Maine, Washington State and other states on emissions testing and standards. But so many of these proposals are stuck in limbo as the fine

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points and funding for these initiatives are discussed and lobbied for on both sides. As a shop, you are charged under the EPA Clean Air Act to keep vehicles running within the emissions parameters they were initially sold with. It is a broad interpretation, but it is the safest for shops to follow. Additionly, also be aware of local emission requirements that can change not only from state to state, but county to county.

Converter

READING THE LABELS Every vehicle sold since the 1970s has a label under the hood on the hood underside, strut tower, radiator support, fan shroud or firewall indicating the emissions calibration. California Emissions Certified models have California, CARB or ARB on the label. This information is vital when looking up parts in the application catalog, to ensure proper fit and also in navigating state-mandated aftermarket replacement converter regulations. In New York, starting June 1st 2013, replacement converters for California emissions-certified vehicles licensed in the state of New York must be CARB-compliant. This includes 1993, 1994 or 1996 models. It is still legal to use EPA-compliant converters in these two circumstances: 1.) Vehicle model year 1995, or vehicle models older than 1993; and 2.) Federal / EPA Only Emissions Certified vehicles, regardless of model year. NOTE: CARB does not certify any aftermarket converter for any Go to www.bfeRAPIDRESPONSE.com

vehicle less than six years old.

READING CATALYTIC CONVERTER LABELING Aftermarket replacement catalytic converters are labeled with important information necessary to ensure that installations comply with California law. New aftermarket converters produced and sold before January 1, 2009 are labeled according to U.S. EPA requirements. A code in the following format will be stamped or affixed to the shell of the converter:

T/CA/MC XXXX YYYY T: Either “N” (for new aftermarket converters), or “U” (for certified used converters). ARB staff has found that this character is sometimes omitted on new aftermarket converters. CA: Indicates that the converter has been ARB approved. MC: A two character code for the converter manufacturer. XXXX: The converter’s part or

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Converter series number. The number may be longer than 4 digits. YYYY: The date of manufacture. The first two digits indicate the month, and the last two the year. The manufacturer code and part number information can be used with the manufacturers’ catalog to verify that the converter is approved for installation in California on a particular vehicle model. Converters currently California certified for use on OBD II vehicles also have “OBD II” (or “OBD2”) stamped or affixed to the shell of the converter. Below is a list of valid manufacturer codes for California.

MANUFACTURER CODES AD: Advanced Car Specialties Ltd (RiteCat). AE: The Automotive Edge (Hermoff) AT: AirTek, Inc. (Catco) BN: Brown Recycling & Manufacturing, Inc. BO: Bosal Mexico SA DECV CA: approved for California CE: Car Sound Exhaust System, Inc. (Magnaflow)

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CT: Valina, Inc. (CarTex) CV: Cateran Pty Ltd. EM: Eastern Manufacturing, Inc. EQ: Equipo Industrial Automotriz S.A. de C.V. ES: ESW America, Inc. ET: Emico Technologies, Inc. LP: LaPointe Exhaust System Equipment MC: Miller Catalyzer Corp MM: Maremont N: new aftermarket converter PA: Perfection Auto Prod. Corp PP: Products For Power TA: Walker Manufacturing/Tenneco TD: TRI-D Industries Inc. TP: Tested Products (DEC) An example of what the labeling looks like is provided on page 54. For this example, the label indicates: •“N” - this was produced as a new aftermarket converter •“CA” - approved for use in California •“TA” - produced by Tenneco, but marketed under the Walker brand name. •The series number is 200300 •“09 05” - It was manufactured in September 2005 •“OBD II” - It is approved for use on specific OBD II applications. The label for converters approved for use in California after January 1, 2009 are slightly different: D-XXX-XX YYYYYY ZZZZ. D-XXX-XX: This is the ARB approval number for the converter (known as the “EO number”). Every EO number will begin with “D”. The first three X’s are a 3 digit number corresponding to the manufacturer. The last two digits are the specific approval number for the manufacturer. The EO number can be used to obtain information about the approval status of the converter on ARB’s website in the same manner that other aftermarket add-on and performance parts can be looked up. The website address is http://www.arb.ca.gov/msprog/aftermkt/devices/am query.php. YYYYYY: The part number for the converter (assigned by the manufacturer). ZZZZ: The date of manufacture. The first two digits indicate the month, and the last two the year. ■

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Wheel Bearings

By Gene Markel

Wheel Bearings & Wheel Speed Sensors I

f you are replacing a wheel bearing on a latemodel vehicle, you will be dealing with a wheel speed sensor. In the past decade, wheel speed sensors have been moving from differentials, axles and knuckles to inside or on the wheel bearing or hub unit. At this location, the sensors are more accurate and often more protected from the elements. The average wheel bearing job may require a scan tool, scope or meter to verify the operation of the sensor. Most vehicles in use today use two types of wheel speed sensors â&#x20AC;&#x201D; variable reluctance (passive) and magnetoresistive (active).

VARIABLE RELUCTANCE (PASSIVE) The variable-reluctance magnetic sensor has a permanent magnet pickup core and coil surrounding the magnet. These are typically found on pre-2003 vehicles. The sensor is mounted at a specific gap from a notchand-tooth reluctor ring. These sensors are less accurate and might read 3-5 mph on a scan tool when the vehicle is sitting still. The rotation of the reluctor

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Wheel Bearings

ring increases and decreases the magnetic field between the notch and the tooth to generate a voltage in the coil. As the gap between the notch and the ring changes with the rotation of the reluctor, the sensor generates an analog sine wave voltage signal. The voltage signal will increase in amplitude with an increase with the speed of the reluctor ring. The change in amplitude can affect the switching toggle to the computer where a cracked reluctor ring may produce an extra switching toggle. The variable-reluctance sensor is a two-wire sensor in a hub unit between the bearing races.

MAGNETORESISTIVE (ACTIVE) A Magnetoresistive sensor has a sensing element that contains an output module mounted on a substrate and magnetic material. These magnetic rings are often located on the seal of the bearing. The magnetoresistive sensorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s main advantage is the ability to sense direction and operate with a wide air gap. The sensor is more stable in high

vibration conditions and operates more efficiently than the reluctance sensor. The sensor can detect the direction of rotation of the reluctor ring and zero speed. The sensorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s compact size allows it to be incorporated into a hub bearing utilizing a alternating magnetic pole reluctor ring that is built into the rubber seal. A magnetoresistive sensor can be a two- or threewire sensor. The three-wire sensor has a power, ground and signal connector pin. The two-wire sensor has a power and signal connector pin. The ground is a part of the mounting for the sensor. The Philips magnetoresistive wheel speed sensor power input can range from 12 to 5 volts from the ABS controller. The sensor produces a square wave signal with a high signal of 1.93 volts, and a low signal of 0.64 volts. The high signal must cross 1.29 volts and the low signal must cross 0.97 volts to low. The main advantage is that the amplitude of the signal does not change.

BrakeandFrontEnd.com 59

Wheel Bearings DIAGNOSTIC PROCEDURES The diagnosis of a trouble code or problem condition requires an investment in information and tools. The information and scan tool are expensive and are a

good reason to charge for diagnostics. Diagnosing a DTC or failure condition should start by conducting a Technical Service Bulletins (TSB) search from your information data base. The condition may already exist and

there is a known fix that can save time and money.

SCAN TOOL RETRIEVAL OF DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODES AND DATA The scan tool is the most efficient tool for diagnosing ABS sensor problems. If you are servicing three and four year old vehicles, your shop cannot function well without it. A Digital Volt Meter (DVM) and oscilloscope are used to verify a DTC or problem. An oscilloscope is the ultimate DVM. It measures voltage and time and many scan tools have a built-in scope. You can survive without a scope, but you have to have a good DVM that can measure frequency. Frequency can provide information that a signal is present.

OSCILLOSCOPE The use of an oscilloscope can be a time consuming process that requires a certain amount of information to accurately display a wheel speed sensor wave pattern. The following contains information for setting up an oscilloscope. The average automotive tire ranges from 24 to 28 inches in diameter. At one revolution per second, the vehicle would be traveling at a speed of four to five miles per hour. The frequency of the sensor would give you an estimate of the number of teeth on the reluctor. This information will help you set the time base for your scope. The time base is set to allow all of the signals per revolution to appear on the display. If a wheel rotates at one revolution per second, the sensor and tone Reader Service: Go to www.bfeRAPIDRESPONSE.com

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Wheel Bearings OSCILLOSCOPE PATTERNS NORMAL

DAMAGED

Cracked

CRACKED MISSING 1.93V 1.29V

DAMAGED

1.13V 0.97V 0.64V

MISSING

32 Teeth

TIME

DIGITAL

RELUCTANCE

DIGITAL

ring produces a 32-Hertz (Hz) frequency signal, the time base is calculated by dividing the frequency by 1. This would be 0.03125 second, or 30 millisecond (mS) rounded down to the nearest mS. Set the time base for 30 to 40 mS. The amplitude of the signal for a inductive sensor will change as the speed of the reluctor increases. This will also affect the oscilloscope display. A low amplitude signal can indicate an air gap or high resistance connector condition. If the oscilloscope you are using has a feature that will allow you to capture a series of frames, it will allow you examine the trace of one revolution of the reluctor. A cracked, damaged or missing reluctor can produce a signal that may not be processed by the BCM. The square wave signal does not need to be processed by the BCM; it is a direct input. Trouble Codes C1141 thru C1144 can be caused by a missing tooth and can be verified with a scope. The aftermarket technician has to be more proficient in diagnosing system failures. He or she has to be familiar with more than one manufacturer 62 May 2013 | BrakeandFrontEnd.com

and be able to understand their methods of diagnosis verses the dealership technician who deals with one manufacturer. The scan tool and service information are the primary tools, but a thorough knowledge of fundamental mechanical and electronic component operation is also an important tool in finding the right fix the first time. â&#x2013;

Electrical Draw

By Scott “Gonzo” Weaver, Contributing Writer

PARASITIC DRAW

Hunting With A Voltmeter

n the past, I’ve always hunted down parasitic draws with my multimeter set on the amperage scale in series with the battery cable, along with jumper leads to open and close the connection, so I could watch for the amperage drop. I also needed to know what a safe level was in order to see the actual draw (or lack of). Some techs use a dead-man switch attached to the battery post instead of jumper wires. For me, it’s whatever I have handy at the time, and time is money so the quicker I can get to the source of the problem, the better that is for my bottom line. Sometimes, these draw tests can take hours to complete, depending on what module you’re looking at and the length of time it takes to power down (Sleep Mode). I find it not only awkward, but a little confusing, to have all of these devices on an adjacent worktable or balancing precariously on the edge of the fender. One thing you need to know to properly perform the draw test is the correct values for each system’s parasitic draw. I find it a lot easier to watch the meter values dropping off to their sleep mode when I have a pretty good idea as to which module it is. But this requires me to stand over the meter and be ready to pull fuses (if needed) at a moment’s notice, all of which is time consuming, involves lots of

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Electrical Draw connections that have to be working correctly, as well as a lot of patience on my part. With too many variables, something can, and usually does, go wrong. When it does, I think there has to be a better way. I really would like to have a way to at least isolate the offending circuit quickly, efficiently and accurately without all these hassles. How about a way I can see the draw without disconnecting anything? No pulling fuses, no need for a dead-man switch and no need for that temperamental amp meter hook-up, which we all (me included) forget to switch back when we check voltage the next time we need the meter. Well, there is… Before parasitic draw testing, it was the tried-andtrue old test light method between the battery post and cable. While it wasn’t precise as far as voltage or amperage, it was accurate enough and it got the job done. If the test light was even partially lit up, there was a draw. I never worried about the actual amount; it wasn’t as important as the “where is it.” So, how about a way to locate these draws in a late-model car and not worry so much about the exact values; just find the problem and leave all that technical mumbo-jumbo aside. There is a way, and all it takes is your voltmeter. Start with a good multimeter (DVOM) with an mV scale (millivolts) and a couple of good test leads with sharp, pointed ends. Put the meter on the millivolt scale and your test leads on the two test points on the back of the suspected fuse, and then measure the voltage. Yes, put the negative lead from your meter on one of the fuse test terminals and the positive lead on the other. (On some fuses, these little test spots on top of the fuses are quite small, so this is where the sharpened points of the test leads will help out.) A good practice session for this method is to try this on a car that is working. Find the dome light fuse and watch the meter. If there is no current flow across the fuse, the meter will read a flat zero. If there is a current flow in the fuse, you will measure a steady voltage drop of some sort from the time the door is opened to the time the dome light finally

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goes off. It doesn’t matter what the voltage is, just that it is there. The reason this works is that all circuits have some resistance in them. This resistance to current flow causes a minute change in the voltage readings from the source to the load itself. Current flow also creates heat, heat increases resistance and current flow through this resistance is seen on your meter as a voltage drop. Any voltage measured across the fuse then indicates some current flow. If you get a small, fluctuating voltage, you’re probably not on the fuse test points. This is where those sharp test probes really help out again. There should be either no voltage at all, or some sustained voltage level that will be constant. Just like any other testing method, practice makes perfect, and trying this out on a car with no problems is a good way to see how this whole thing works. Some mV meters are so sensitive that you may even see a fluctuating voltage reading as you get close to the fuse, or in the air around the circuit when it’s not hooked to anything. If so, try touching the two leads together before you hook it up. If all is well, the meter should read zero voltage at that point. I prefer this method to the amp meter testing method. During the process, I’m not disconnecting anything, I’m still looking at a voltage drop (not amperage) and I’m less likely to screw up another amp fuse in my meter. I’ve even had success with this by starting at the MAXI fuse, then following the wiring diagram to break it down even further until I found the source of the draw. The only time I start pulling fuses is after I’ve gotten the draw isolated to one section of the wiring diagram or fuse box. I’m not concerned so much with accurate values or amperage loads, just where the draw is originating. The fact that I’m seeing voltage on the meter in a circuit that shouldn’t have any current movement is enough information for me to suspect that this circuit is the culprit. ■ BrakeandFrontEnd.com 65

Tech Tips This month is sponsored by:

CORROSION ISSUES WITH FUEL FILLER NECKS Since the introduction of the OBD II system, manufacturers have continued to improve on the monitoring of evaporative emissions, with the complete evaporative system being under a scrutinized surveillance. Codes like P0440 to P0456 are all related to the fuel vapor control, including leaks. Starting early this century, manufacturers have increased the development of fuel vapor retention, preventing the vapors from escaping into the atmosphere. This prompted many changes in the design and location of certain components such as charcoal canisters mounted near the fuel tank. A fuel tank pressure sensor is used to monitor the pressure decay in the system during the testing and will turn on the check engine light if the pressure decay moves out of specification. Remember that the evaporative system test will not be performed if the fuel level is below a 1/4, as it would cause for too much pressure buildup in the tank or simply would take too much time to build any pressure. A helpful tool to identify leaks is a smoke-generating machine. During the smoke machine process, loose or broken hoses are usually identified as the main cause of evaporative failures. An additional component has started to surface and is becoming the leading cause of Go to www.bfeRAPIDRESPONSE.com

66 May 2013 | BrakeandFrontEnd.com

evaporative emissions leaks â&#x20AC;&#x201D; the fuel filler neck. Most fuel filler necks are made of steel and are secured to the fuel tank via a rubber hose. The fuel filler neck is usually enclosed in the rear fender well, where an accumulation of dirt and debris causes the filler neck to rust and leak. These models are hard to diagnose, as the inner fender protection must be removed to get access. Others are totally exposed behind the fender where plashing and road debris erosion removes paint and perforates the filler neck. The filler cap, which besides not being properly secured after refueling, may cause multiple failures of the system as well. The fuel filler cap may have a defective control valve and prevent pressure hold in the system. Second, the filler neck itself may have rust on the outer seam, which will prevent the cap from sealing properly to the filler neck. On some models, the part where the cap screws on is made of plastic and can be damaged by the fueling nozzle when inserted during refill, which will prevent proper sealing. All of these situations will cause the check engine light to turn on. Make sure to implement fuel filler neck inspection into your regular vehicle maintenance or during fuel tank removal to prevent comebacks. Courtesy of Spectra Premium.

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Tech Tips

02 SENSOR

A Day in the Life of a Contaminated 02 Sensor Since the oxygen sensor is in the exhaust stream, it can become contaminated over time. Much like a spark plug, the oxygen sensor can be examined and “read” to determine what the cause of contamination might be. • Black sooty deposits would indicate an excessively rich fuel mixture condition or oil blow-by in an older engine. • A common type of contamination is due to coolant being burnt in the combustion chamber likely due to an engine gasket leak.

• Lead poisoning is no longer common, due to the lack of leaded fuel, but the emulsifying of the “terne” plating inside a steel fuel tank due to the excessive use of fuel system cleaners or alcohol can cause this same condition.

Typical Switching Oxygen Sensor Diagnosis • Look at the sensor voltage when the engine is cold and the ignition is first switched on. The heaters will cause the sensor to conduct current. Watch for the bias voltage to gradually lower as the sensor heats.

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• Watch for the sensor to come down to less than 100 mV within three minutes of KOEO time. After three minutes, all sensors should have about the same voltage with the KOEO. A failed or contaminated sensor may be slow or may not get down to 100 mV at all. • If one of the sensor voltages remains high, that sensor could be causing a no DTC driveability concern.

Oxygen Sensor Replacement • The primary sensor is on the manifold or the exhaust pipe; latemodel vehicles also have sensors farther downstream. Because many late-model vehicles have multiple oxygen sensors, be sure you correctly identify the bad sensor so you do not mistakenly replace the wrong one. Vehicle manufacturers identify “bank1” vs. “bank2” and “front/rear” vs. “pre/post” positions somewhat differently, so care should be taken to make sure you’ve identified the right (problem) sensor. • Unplug the wire connection, then spray penetrating lubricant onto the threaded connection. • Use an appropriate oxygen sensor removal tool. • Most oxygen sensors come

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Tech Tips

02 SENSOR / PONTIAC GTO

with a special electrically conductive anti-seize compound applied to the threads, so it’s merely a matter of threading the new sensor into the void left by the old one. • If the new sensor does not have anti-seize preapplied, be sure to apply some to the threads prior to installing the sensor. Do not put excessive amounts of anti-seize onto the threads. Getting antiseize compound on the sensing area will contaminate it. • Always check the appropriate reference material for the required torque specification. Once it’s snug, plug the connector into the vehicle’s factory wiring to finish the task. • Using Mode $06 Test Data – Once an oxygen sensor repair is made, Mode $06 data can be useful to determine if the oxygen sensor is operating correctly and the repair was effective. – Mode $06 is the actual system test data that OBD II looks at when it decides to set a pending or current fault code. • The chart on page 64 is an example of the Mode $06 data that can be obtained with regard to the oxygen sensors. Courtesy of Delphi Product and Service Solutions.

GTO Front End Noise Some 2004-2006 Pontiac GTO customers may comment on a knock noise from the front when driving at low speeds over bumps or uneven road surfaces. This condition may be caused by the lower coil of the spring touching on the side lip of the spring seat. The illustration shows the rub mark on the spring coil. The spring coils contacting the body sheet metal within the wheelhouse area may also cause this condition. To make the appropriate repairs, follow the inspection and service guidelines below.

SERVICE PROCEDURES Inspection 1. Inspect the tightness of all front suspension fasteners. If they are OK, proceed to Step 2. 2. Inspect the body sheet metal around the inside of the strut tower for signs of spring coil rubbing. 3. Inspect the second lower coil on the inboard side of the spring for signs of chipped or marked paint, as shown in the illustration. 4. If marks are found as described in Steps 2 and 3, proceed to Procedure A.

Tech Tips Procedure A 1. Remove the spring from the strut assembly and re-install it upside down (with the thin coil end resting on the spring seat). 2. Carefully reinstall the upper bearing (yellow plastic housing), ensuring that it is located correctly in the upper spring seat. 3. While the strut is removed from the vehicle, cycle the control arm up and down. If a noise is heard from the lower control arm rod front insulator bushing, reinstall the strut assembly to the vehicle and proceed to Procedure B. If no noise is heard, install new strutto-steering knuckle attaching bolts (Pontiac P/N 11090821) and nuts (Pontiac P/N 92138205). Tighten the nuts while applying pressure to the top of the brake rotor. This will ensure that the camber adjustment bolt is against the strut tube, eliminating the need to perform a front end alignment.

Tightening Procedure

1. Tighten the nuts to 85 N.m (62 lb ft). 2. Tighten the nuts to 100 N.m (74 lb ft). Tighten the nuts an additional 90 degrees.

Procedure B NOTE: Only perform this procedure if Step 3 from Procedure A confirms that it is necessary. 1. Remove the front lower control arm rod nut (1) (Pontiac P/N 11076363).

2. Install a new nut, but do not fully tighten. 3. Bounce the front of the vehicle up and down several times to stabilize the suspension. 4. Tighten the lower control arm rod nuts to 148 N.m (109 lb ft). â&#x2013; Courtesy of AllData

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Product Showcase

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The optimum control derived from the ADVICS total braking system results in a comfortable and safe ride every time. With applications for passenger cars and light trucks, ADVICS products meet or exceed OE specifications, assuring industry-leading braking performance. Visit www.ADVICS-na.com to learn more about ADVICS braking systems or email amsales@advics-na.com.

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2001-2004 Dodge/Chrysler vehicles that have been trudging through the ice, snow and salt this winter are especially susceptible to Electronic Automatic Transmission Control (EATX) module problems. This is evident through poor shift quality, hesitation, decreased fuel mileage or even the vehicle switching into Limp Mode. Until now, your only option for replacement EATX modules was the expensive O.E. dealer. CARDONE’s 11 exclusive part numbers of A1 CARDONE Reman EATX Modules offer O.E. performance without the high price and are instock, ready to ship. For additional information, visit www.cardone.com.

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Centric Parts announced several upgrades to its Brake Shoe programs. The new CTek Brake Shoe (110-Series) program offers a competitively priced entry-level option covering more than 1,000 of the most popular applications. The Centric Premium Brake Shoe (111-Series) program now includes higher friction formulas specifically engineered for parking brakes. Centric has also taken this opportunity to update its Heavy Duty Brake Shoe (112-Series) program with enhancements to both the formulations and coverage.

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Hunter Engineering Company’s fast floor-to-floor SmartWeight Touch balancer provides superior wheel service with an intuitive touchscreen interface for unmatched technician support and guidance. New software features include on-demand videos that simplify training, and 3D graphics that provide live navigation through the selection and placement of wheel weights. The SmartWeight Touch also uses Hunter’s patented eCal auto-calibration to electronically and automatically calibrate the balancer without any input from the operator, making it a truly “self-calibrating” balancer.

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CRP Automotive, a leading source of OE-quality replacement parts for Asian and European import vehicle applications, offers a wide range of Pentosin OE-quality transmission fluids to cover a wide range of European vehicles, including popular makes such as Audi, BMW, Jaguar, Land Rover, Porsche, Volkswagen and Volvo. The Pentosin transmission fluid line is formulated on a fully synthetic base oil technology and incorporates special anti-wear chemistry and friction modifiers to deliver safe and stable friction performance in various types of transmissions – manual, automatic, and double clutch. For more information, visit www.pentosin.net

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Product Showcase Dana Holding Corporation has expanded its Spicer ring and pinion gear options for Dana 44TM (226 mm) and Dana 60TM (248mm) rear axles to include additional ratios, while ensuring top-of-the-line part quality through the manufacturing processes. New ratios available for the Dana 44 and 60 axles include 4.56, 4.88, and 5.13, adding to existing ratios of the Dana 60 axle that range from 3.54 to 7.17 and the Dana 44 axle that range from 3.07 to 5.13.

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Federal-Mogul has introduced replacement front brake pads for the 2013 Ford Fusion and rear pads for 2013 Dodge Dart passenger cars. These Wagner ThermoQuiet CeramicNXT pads are among several new pad sets now available for leading latemodel foreign nameplate and domestic applications. Wagner ThermoQuiet CeramicNXT brake pads represent the next-generation of automotive ceramic friction technology, with proprietary formulations and other features that help ensure quieter and more consistent braking performance.

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Until now, those needing to replace a worn out or clicking high speed CV Joint on the driveshaft of a 2007-’13 Jeep JK were required to purchase an expensive driveshaft assembly, as high speed driveshaft service components aren’t available from the OEM. Rockford Driveline now offers a money-saving alternative with their 2007-’13 Jeep JK Wrangler High Speed CV Joint. The Rockford Driveline High Speed CV Joint fits both front and rear driveshafts, and comes “fully loaded.” The joint assembly is produced to meet the design requirements of the original equipment manufacturer and includes Rockford’s super-strength housing with precision-engineered internal components, as well as the new CV boot, end cap, grease, and hardware needed to do the job right.

Standard Motor Products, Inc. (SMP) has added seven new clone-able sensors to its growing TPMS sensor line. These new clone-able sensors match the original for fit, form and function; and due to their advanced engineering, they can easily be cloned with the existing sensor ID, eliminating the need for a factory relearn. These new Standard and Intermotor part numbers cover an additional 11 million VIO for Acura, Honda, Ford, Chevrolet, Cadillac, Ford truck and Toyota truck through the 2013 model year.

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Reader Service: Go to www.bfeRAPIDRESPONSE.com AMSOIL INC. has re-positioned two of its synthetic automatic transmission fluids to be included in the company’s Signature Series family. The new designation reflects the premium quality of AMSOIL Multi-Vehicle Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid and AMSOIL Fuel-Efficient Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid, said the company. The robust performance was proven during severe-service field testing, validating the expanded service life recommendations. AMSOIL Signature Series ATF is recommended for twice the vehicle manufacturers’ severe-service drain interval. The products also feature new packaging.

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Product Showcase WIX Filters has launched a new XP line of high premium oil filters engineered to withstand the toughest of driving conditions and scientifically designed to maximize the performance of synthetic motor oils. XP filters are ideal for vehicles subject to: towing trailers, boats and heavy equipment; high idling conditions in stop-and-go city driving; harsh driving environments, such as dusty and muddy roads; and extremely high temperatures. Premium oil filters such as XP provide severalbenefits, including: wire-backed, fully synthetic media to trap more dirt, dust and grime, and a greater resistance to hardening and cracking due to silicone anti-drain-back valve.

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BendPakâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s new ToughPads fit later year BendPak two-post lifts and offer the grip of natural rubber combined with the ultimate in abrasion- and tear-resistance of polyurethane. The durable, wear-resistant polymer compound extends the life of the contact pads, which helps increase workplace safety and reduces operating costs. The round slip-over design makes installation quick and easy. Other features include: abrasionresistant, oil- and solvent-resistant, higher load bearing capacity, tear-resistant, heat- and cold-resistant. ToughPads replace earlier BendPak contact pads made of natural rubber.

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NAPA Ultra Premium disc brake pads are the ideal choice for keeping vehicle braking systems in likenew condition, even under the harshest conditions. All pads are designed to exactly match the fit, form and function of the vehicle, just like OE pads. Plus, they are designed with exact OE noise-dampening characteristics and backed by a noise-free guarantee for the life of the pads. Visit NAPAonline.com to learn more.

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Tracer Products has introduced its new TP-9775-0008 Hybrid A/C Compressor Oil for use in all hybrid vehicles. This OEM-based ester lubricant provides excellent lubricity and compressor protection, while its high dielectric properties help reduce the risk of shock hazard to technicians. Packaged in a convenient 8 oz. (237 ml) easy-pour bottle, this formula is ideal for technicians who prefer adding oil to a compressor prior to installation. For more information about the Tracerline TP-9775-0008 Hybrid A/C Compressor Oil, call toll-free 1-800-641-1133 or visit www.tracerline.com.

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Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Fast, Easy and Accurate! Get FREE PRODUCT AND SERVICE INFO from the companies featured in this issue of Brake and Front End. >> VISIT www.bfeRapidResponse.com and click on the company from which you want information. >> OR, go to www.BrakeandFrontEnd.com and click on the Brake and Front End Rapid Response logo.

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ADVICS

Raybestos Brakes

Akebono Corporation

Raybestos Chassis

APA Management Group

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Volkswagen Parts & Accessories

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Brake Story

BRAKE PAD DELAMINATION By Andrew Markel, Editor, Brake & Front End Magazine

How Long Should a Brake Job Last? The Pressure Is On With New Customer Expectations

very technician knows it’s impossible to estimate how long a set of brake pads will last. But, due to changing ownership cycles, your customers are developing new expectations. According to R.L. Polk, the typical consumer held onto a vehicle for 57 months in 2012. This is up from 38 months in 2002. So, if a customer drives 15,000 miles a year, the customer will accumulate 23,000 more miles before they trade it in. These extra miles could mean an extra front brake job. These repair incidents create points of reference that form certain customer expectations that were not there just a decade ago. But, in some cases, reality may not meet customer expectations. Why? Each time the brakes are serviced, the pads could be compromised by the previous brake jobs that did not restore the brakes to like-new condition. The brake hardware might not have been replaced during the first brake job. Halfway through the customer-expected life of the pads, the abutment clips may have corroded and lost their spring. The guide pins could have been neglected on the next brake job. Now,

the pads wear really unevenly and the customer will notice that mileage between pad changes has significantly dropped. Performing a complete brake job will break the cycle.

A normal customer-expected wear interval cannot be achieved if a low-quality brake pad set is used. One area that is consistently compromised is the quality of the backing plate and how it retains the friction material during the life of the brake job. Keeping a friction material attached to a piece of metal under more than 1,400 psi and shearing forces is not something to take for granted when selecting a replacement brake pad. If the attachment method and implementation is substandard, it can result in noise and, eventually, failure of the pad before it’s worn. This is called edge lift or delamination. It’s caused by failure of the

attachment method and can be hastened by corrosion. The first symptom of the failure is noise. The noise is a result of the separation, causing irregularities in the braking surface and the pad now having completely different NVH properties. Some manufacturers are using mechanical attachment methods that can prevent delamination in a brake pad. The technology allows brake pads to be run down to the last few millimeters of friction material. The bond can be resistant to shear loads, corrosion and heat. This makes for a pad that can meet or exceed a customer’s expectations. In a recent survey of technicians and shops conducted by Brake & Front End magazine, noise was the primary reason why a customer brought their vehicle in to have the brakes inspected. They did not bring it in for a low-priced brake job. Customers are concerned about safety, not a low price. They can see the value in getting more miles out of a complete brake job, over a cheap brake job that has them returning to you sooner than expected. ■

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