❯❯ Gonzo’s Toolbox May 2013
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MAGAZINE
❯❯ Drum Brake Service
❯❯ Air Ride Systems
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CONTENTS 22
Volume 35, No. 5
42
Diagnostic Solutions
Kia Sportage
Drum Brake Service
4WD/AWD Hub Service While you may never have to replace the entire transfer case or tranny on the popular Sportage or Sorento SUVs, you will have to replace hubs, sensors and solenoids, advises Bob Dowie, import specialist contributor.
Because an incorrectly service drum brake can cause noise, pulling, grabbing and pulsation complaints, Import Specialist Contributor Gary Goms takes a look at how drum brakes operate and how to best repair them. ImportCar Staff Publisher Jim Merle, ext. 280 jmerle@babcox.com
Managing Editor Jennifer Clements, ext. 265 jclements@babcox.com
Graphic Designer Kelly Gifford, ext. 249 kgifford@babcox.com
Editor Mary DellaValle, ext. 221 mdellavalle@babcox.com
Technical Editor Larry Carley lcarley256@aol.com
Ad Services Director Cindy Ott, ext. 209 cott@babcox.com
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DEPARTMENTS Oil Change Customers: Columns 24%
6 Editor’s Notebook 8 News Update
A Percent Buying Other Services
17%
Contributing Writers
12%
11%
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16 Guess the Car Contest
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Bob Dowie, Village Auto Works, Chester, NY
11%
Gary Goms, formerly of Midland Engine Electronics & Diagnostics, Buena Vista, CO Bob Howlett, The Swedish Solution, Orange Village, OH Babcox Blue Superior Auto Electric, Scott “Gonzo” Weaver, Tulsa, OK
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Publication
Source: The NPD Group/Car Care Track®
r r g ce Ai t in g e/ tion Ca vi t / n d n r a i h a a e t in b Editorial Advisory Board Se as g Bl tall Ro anc e Tech Feature: Ca cem r W s n / k i e e l r il a Bob Dowie, Village Auto Works, Chester, NY ir Ba er la ip ill In Ca eta Br ilt ep Parasitic Draw TTesting W r f F Chris Klinger, Precision Incorporated, o D r rR Re Ai ilte Tucson, AZ F Tech Update: Steve Louden, Louden Motorcar Services,
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Dallas, TX
Air Ride Systems
Frank Scandura, Frank’s European Service, Las Vegas and Henderson, NV
60 Import Tech Tips
Joe Stephens, Stephens Automotive, Palatine, IL
68 Essentials (New Products)
John Volz, Volz Bros., Grass Valley, CA
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70 Ad Index
Babcox Media, Inc. 3550 Embassy Parkway Akron, OH 44333-8318
71 Classifieds 76 NASCAR Performance 60
President
Bill Babcox bbabcox@babcox.com
Vice President/ Chief Financial Officer
Greg Cira gcira@babcox.com
Vice President/ Group Publisher
Jeff Stankard jstankard@babcox.com
Controller
Beth Scheetz bscheetz@babcox.com
In Memoriam
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Founder of Babcox Publications
Edward S. Babcox (1885-1970)
Chairman
Tom B. Babcox (1919-1995)
IMPORTCAR (ISSN 1069-4714) (May 2013, Volume 35, Number 5): Published monthly by Babcox Media, Inc., 3550 Embassy Parkway, Akron, OH 44333 U.S.A. Phone (330) 670-1234, FAX (330) 670-0874. Periodical postage paid at Akron, OH 44333 and additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to IMPORTCAR, 3550 Embassy Parkway, Akron, OH 44333. IMPORTCAR is a trademark of Babcox Media, Inc. registered with the U.S. Patent and Trademark office. All rights reserved. A limited number of complimentary subscriptions are available to individuals who meet the qualification requirements. Call (330) 670-1234, Ext. 260, to speak to a subscription services representative or FAX us at (330) 670-5335. Paid Subscriptions are available for non-qualified subscribers at the following rates: U.S.: $69 for one year. Canada: $89 for one year. Canadian rates include GST. Ohio residents add current county sales tax. Other foreign rates/via air mail: $129 for one year. Payable in advance in U.S. funds. Mail payment to IMPORTCAR, P.O. Box 75692, Cleveland, OH 44101-4755. VISA, MasterCard or American Express accepted. Member BPA International, Inc. Founded 1979. 䊚2013 by Babcox Media, Inc.
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[ Editor’sNotebook
By Mary DellaValle|EDITOR
Increased Cross-Selling Incidents Will Improve Your Shop’s Bottom Line
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s miles rack up on your customers’ vehicles, are you getting the most mileage out of your oil change services and maximizing every service occasion? Oil change service is the leading driver of traffic through service bays and represents the greatest opportunity for crossselling other services, according to new car care research from The NPD Group. NPD’s Car Care Track, which monitors DIY and DIFM auto aftermarket consumer purchase behavior, finds that 24% of customers are purchasing tire rotations with their oil change, 17% buy an air filter or cabin air filter replacement, 12% of oil change customers purchase a
car wash or car detailing and 11% purchase wiper blades or brake service. “Service providers who are providing just the oil and filter service are missing out on significant revenue opportunities,” said David Portalatin, NPD executive director and aftermarket industry analyst. Repair shops are getting a higher percentage of brake service and related steering and suspension work, along with a variety of repair/replacement services including fuel system, electrical and engine work. Car dealers and tire shops are much more effective at crossselling tire rotation or balancing, according to NPD’s Car Care Track. And, quick lubes
24%
are more likely to cross-sell air filter replacements in conjunction with an oil change, but lag behind other service channels in all other categories. So, what’s the takeaway from the NPD Group: • Every car that enters your service bay represents a finite opportunity for revenue growth. • Unperformed maintenance and repairs represent lost sales that may be difficult to capture on a future repair occasion. • Thorough vehicle inspections provide your customers with complete car care service — and the peace of mind and safety that comes with properly working related vehicle systems. IC
Oil Change Customers: Percent Buying Other Services Source: The NPD Group/Car Care Track®
17% 12%
11%
11%
r g ar ce Ai t e/ tion vi tin g /C n d n r a i h a a e t in l ll Se as ab m Ro nc r B sta W ling /C ace ke e r n r ri e ala a i I l p e i l T rB Br Ca eta ilt ep W efil o D rF rR R i A ilte F
Mary DellaValle, mdellavalle@babcox.com
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[ NewsUpdate Autologic Diagnostics Partners with WORLDPAC for 2013 National Conference and Tech Sessions Autologic Diagnostics, in partnership with the WORLDPAC Training Institute (WTI), hosted their fourth annual National Conference and Tech Sessions (NCTS) March 14-17, 2013 at the Rosen Shingle Creek in Orlando, FL. The event was comprised of two days of intensive training classes that covered BMW, Mercedes-Benz, Jaguar, Porsche, Land Rover and Volkswagen/Audi nameplates, as well as WTI classes on BMW, Mini, Volvo and Shop/Business Management. More than 240 people from across the U.S and around the globe attended, some from as far away as Jamaica and Australia. “Two of the things that separate Autologic from our competitors are our world-class technical support and the extensive training we provide for our customers,” said Kevin FitzPatrick, CEO, Autologic Diagnostics, Inc. “The NCTS delivers a ton of valuable technical training in a span of a few days and continues to prove it is an important annual event for both Autologic and our customers. Our NCTS event, with the continued support of WTI, continues to grow in popularity, selling out for the second year in a row!” Training classes started early Friday morning and, for the first time, featured a four-hour class format, which allowed for more class options and maximum training. Attendees selected up to four classes, for a total of 16 hours of training.
Raybestos Training Module Expands Techs’ Professional Skills Technicians can further enhance their installation and service skills with e-learning training modules from Raybestos chassis parts — a member of the Affinia family of brands. The training module is available at www.RaybestosChassis.com and can be studied free of charge. The Raybestos Advanced Certified Education (ACE) program increases educational opportunities for technicians and service writers who sell Raybestos chassis product. The e-training module offered by Affinia Tech Training presents the ideal customer service engagement when assessing chassis repairs and addressing customer concerns.
[ NewsUpdate The e-training modules offer technicians these time-saving and money-saving benefits: • Identify and resolve undercar problems more effectively; • Make it easier to present and sell appropriate parts and service; • Learn key advantages of Professional Grade products; • Reduce comebacks for work that doesn’t meet customer expectations; and • Increase loyalty with existing customers and grow business with new customers. For more information, visit www.RaybestosChassis.com or call 800323-3022.
THE NETWORK HOSTS HUNDREDS OF DISCUSSIONS BETWEEN MEMBERS, VENDOR PARTNERS DURING SPRING MEETING The Automotive Distribution Network hosted 450 one-on-one discussions between its members and manufacturer partners during its recent spring membership meeting in Atlanta, according to Mike Lambert, president of the Network. “This was a unique opportunity for our Network members to meet face to face with several of our vendors in one day to examine any issues, provide feedback from the street and discuss promotional opportunities,” Lambert said. “The mini-sessions were fast-paced yet still enabled our manufacturers to have quality time with the members.” Over the three-day proceedings, the Network’s members also reviewed primary product lines, received updates on the group’s cutting-edge IT initiatives and discussed marketing plans for 2013. Committee members also met to help chart the future direction of the Network. “As a member-driven organization, our spring and fall meetings help to ensure that the Network is continually developing programs and making product decisions that will benefit our members and their customers at the street level,” Lambert said. The gathering also featured appearances by Parts Plus driver Clay Millican and Auto Pride’s Bob Vandergriff Jr., who race together as a multicar team under the BVR banner in the NHRA Mello Yello Drag Racing Series. Go to www.ICRapidResponse.com
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[ NewsUpdate Standard Motor Products Named Federated Outstanding Vendor of the Year For the second consecutive year, the Federated Auto Parts membership selected Standard Motor Products (SMP) as its Outstanding Vendor of the Year. The award was presented during the group’s national meeting and annual awards dinner held April 25 in Orlando, FL. “When we tallied up the votes for the Outstanding Vendor of the Year, it was nearly a photo finish between many competent suppliers, but one stood out as the overall winner, Standard Motor Products,” said Bo Fisher, chairman of Federated Auto Parts. “SMP earned our top honor again this year because of their commitment to excellence in areas such as education, plus their creativity in new products and market segments. We congratulate SMP and thank them for their dedication to the success of our membership.” In addition to the Outstanding Vendor of the Year award, Federated presented its Outstanding Supplier Support Awards to its supplier partners that excelled in five key categories: Education and Training Vendor of the Year – Denso Electronic Cataloging Vendor of the Year – Dorman Marketing Vendor of the Year – Federal-Mogul Order Fill Vendor of the Year – East Penn Sales Representation Vendor of the Year – Gates “Each year, Federated members choose the supplier partners that stand out in areas important to the overall success of Federated. It takes teamwork to be successful and we thank these deserving MVP suppliers for their outstanding performance for the Federated team,” said Federated CEO Rusty Bishop.
Bo Fisher, chairman of Federated Auto Parts (fourth from left) presents the Federated Outstanding Vendor of the Year Award to Standard Motor Products (L to R): Ken Wendling, Bob Kimbro, Matt Guden, Fisher, Bill Collins, Robert Frick and Alex Simmons.
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[ NewsUpdate TENNECO’S MONROE RIDE & DRIVE PROGRAM EXPANDS LOCATIONS, ADDS INDUSTRY TRAINING EVENTS IN 2013 Tenneco announced plans to attract nearly 10,000 attendees to its 45-stop calendar for 2013. Tenneco also has plans to take the Monroe Ride & Drive seminar to several key industry training schools, including VISION Hi-Tech Training Expo in Kansas City, MO, which took place in March. Now in its 12th year, the Monroe Ride & Drive program was designed to help technicians identify the characteristics and differences of worn
versus properly functioning ride control components and to recognize the impact these components have on overall vehicle safety. “We’re proud to continue to offer such a critical educational initiative to the aftermarket,” said Chuck Osgood, manager of training and sales operations, North American aftermarket, Tenneco. “It’s such a small investment of time compared to the remarkable value you’ll bring back to your customers.” The 2013 Monroe Ride & Drive program also features enhanced curriculum, including key new ride control trends, exclusive training in innovative undercar technologies and the hands-on ride and drive training experience. This premier driving experience gives service technicians an opportunity to compare the steering, stopping and stability characteristics of vehicles with worn OE ride control components and new Monroe ride control replacement components. To find out when the Monroe Ride & Drive program will visit your region, visit the “Events” page on www.monroe.com to see the most current schedule, and to register to participate in an upcoming event.
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NewsUpdate] Automotive Parts Associates Treats Race Fans to Kansas Speedway Weekend Continuing its tradition of assisting members in boosting profits with promotions, sweepstakes and incentive trips, Automotive Parts Associates (APA) recently treated six enthusiastic race fans to the excitement of Kansas Speedway in once-in-a-lifetime fashion. Mike and Lisa Wilson from Campbell’s Auto Service in Riverview, New Brunswick, Canada; Steve and Denise Doney from Hometown Tire in Williston, VT; and Larry and Larry Schultz from Larry’s Service Center in Linden, WI, were the lucky six people who came to Kansas City on an allexpenses paid trip. Beyond meeting NASCAR drivers, getting autographs and photos, and hanging out in the garages and even the pits, the winners watched two races with mostly cooperative weather. “It was such a thrill to see Lisa Wilson walk up to me with the biggest smile on her face, to tell me she had just been next to Dale Jr. when he stepped out of his car and she got his autograph,” said Caprice Caster, director of events & promotions for
APA. This Speedway Weekend is an annual promotion for Automotive Parts Associates, but this is the first year it’s been held in conjunction with the April race. The promotion ran from
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January through March of this year and Professionals’ Choice Warehouse Distributors gave every customer who purchased a product from one of the sponsoring manufacturers an entry form for a chance to win. The sponsors were: Airtex Fuel, ASC Industries, Bosch, Denso, Dorman, Federal-Mogul, FRAM, Gates, KYB, MAS, NGK and SKF. For more information, visit www.professionalschoice.com.
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[ NewsUpdate NUCAP Announces Industry-First 100% Brake Pad Performance Guarantee NUCAP has announced its industry-first 100% brake pad performance guarantee on all brake pads manufactured with NUCAP’s NRS technology. “Brake pads produced using NUCAP’s NRS technology provide a mechanical bond that eliminates any chance for edge lift, rust jacking or delamination,” said Jayson Keever, vice president of global marketing for NUCAP. “Our extensive research indicates that edge lift is one of the main causes of brake pad failure. Our NRS technology was designed to eliminate this, and we feel so strongly about the benefits of NRS that we’re backing all pads that include it, regardless of the manufacturer.”
Starting May 1, 2013, NUCAP will launch its guarantee on all brands of brake pads using its NRS Retention System. For brake pads experiencing delamination during their useful life, NUCAP will reimburse customers a flat $250 toward the cost of those brake pads and labor. “Brake pads featuring NRS are safer, experience less noise and last longer, and with our 100% guarantee, there’s never been a better time to switch to pads with NRS,” said Keever. “We’re certain that less delamination will result in more profitable installers and happier vehicle owners.” Learn more about the NUCAP 100% brake pad performance guarantee at www.nucap.com/guarantee. IC
GUESS THE CAR! WIN $50! What vehicle MAKE does the engine on the left represent? Submit your guess with our online contest form by visiting www.ImportCar.com/guessthecar.
#14
The winner will be randomly selected from correct entries and awarded $50. Entries must be received by June 1, 2013. #13
April Solution: Kia Sephia Solved by: Roger Kaufman, Owner, Kaufman’s Auto Repairs, Inc., Sarasota, FL
CONGRATULATIONS Roger! Employees of Babcox Media, industry manufacturers and ImportCar advertisers are not eligible to enter.
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[ Gonzo’sToolbox
By Scott “Gonzo” Weaver, owner Superior Auto Electric, Tulsa, OK
Taking a Leap of Faith When Relying On Your Knowledge And Expertise Is The Best Diagnostic Plan
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ven with the best information available to the professional tech, there are times when some things just don’t add up or are omitted in the description of how a certain system works. Dealing with unforeseen problems ends up in a never-ending stumbling block of false leads, misguided diagnostics, or, for the lack of better term, a typical “snafu.” There are a lot of situations when the tech just has to trust his own judgment and go with what seems right, rather than what all the information is suggesting. Call it a gut instinct, dumb luck or maybe a professional guess, but that may be all you have to go on. Case in point, a body shop sent over a pickup truck with the “Check Gauges” light stuck on. The gauges checked fine, there were no service codes, and no apparent reason why this warning light should be stuck on. They all matched their actual readings — from the segment tests on the individual gauges, to the values from each of the gauges. Plus, the gas gauge was spot on, and nothing regarding the water temp, charging system, etc. looked out of place. I called the body shop and asked them what they repaired and what components they changed. As it turns out, the problem was the result of a rather light hit on the driver’s-side front fender area. There was no frame damage and no major components were replaced. With my initial tests completed, everyone was leaning toward a problem with the dash cluster
itself, but I wasn’t convinced. Since it was an insurance job, the pressure from the body shop and the insurance company to find the answer was looming to just replace the cluster, than it was to challenge the results. For me, it comes down to test, retest and test again. I just couldn’t bring myself to replacing the cluster just yet. I wanted some definitive proof before going through all the hassle of reprogramming, and setting the mileage
Scott “Gonzo” Weaver, gonzostoolbox.com
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[ Gonzo’sToolbox and security system. If the gauges tested good, how can I justify calling them bad? The more I conducted various tests, the more confused I got. I poured over the description of how the “check gauges” functioned. I was hoping to find some clue that might tell me what I was missing. Nothing stood out — absolutely nothing. I needed to take that leap of faith that I was right and it wasn’t the cluster. It was a big gamble, I’ll have to admit. I stuck with the idea that the tests were accurate and the problem had to be around the damaged area. There again, not knowing what I was looking for put me in the position that it was all “blind faith” that my test results were right, that I was right and there was something else wrong. Then, after removing the inner fender, I found a two-wire connector dangling all by itself. As I moved the wire through the space, using the wire length to give me some idea as to where it might go, it ended up at the bottom of the battery tray. It’s the battery temperature sensor connector. I’ve run across these being disconnected on older models before, and it’s always associated with a code, but not this time. After plugging it in, the “check gauges” warning went out. Just to verify the whole thing, I unplugged the sensor and tried it again, and, sure enough, the “check gauges” warning light stayed off. Go to www.ICRapidResponse.com
I still think it’s pretty odd that in all of the operating descriptions, there was never any mention of the battery temperature sensor as part of the “check gauges” warning system. It’s not the first time I’ve run into something that didn’t make sense or that wasn’t explained in a way where I could understand the engineering behind it. You’d like to think that every possible scenario has been checked and double-checked by the engineers, or at least they’d mention something about it like: “Oh, by the way, we tied the battery temp sensor to the ‘check gauges’ warning light, and thought you might like to know. And, don’t worry, the gauges are fine.” It seems that with all the sophistication we’ve added to these modern cars, there are still some things that haven’t been fully explored regarding the possibilities that could arise. These “leaps of faith” in today’s marketplace don’t leave any room for exploratory surgery to isolate these problems, and unless you knew about these quirky problems beforehand, your diagnostic time could get lengthy. I can’t say every answer is in a scanner or manual. Techs have always had to find solutions to a lot of problems that were not even thought to be problems when these systems were created, especially when a certain circuit or communication line gets crossed up and throws a monkey-wrench into your diagnostic plan. IC
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[ DiagnosticSolutions
DRUM BRAKES By Gary Goms, Import Specialist Contributor
Drum Brake Service Focus on Single-Anchor, Floating Shoe Designs
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lthough four-wheel disc brakes currently dominate the import brake service market, millions of drum brakes are serviced each day in independent import shops. Thanks to their age, many drum brakes present problems related not only to normal wear, but also to extended age and mileage. Because an incorrectly serviced drum brake can cause noise, pulling, grabbing and pulsation complaints, we’ll look at how drum brakes operate and how they can best be repaired. We’ll limit our discussion to the single-anchor, floating shoe designs we currently see on modern production vehicles, and leave designs like dual-anchor, dual-cylinder drum brakes to the pages of history.
SERVO ACTION The upside of single-anchor drum brakes is that they create a “servo action” that multiplies the hydraulic force applied against the brake lining. When applied, the wheel cylinder piston forces the primary shoe against the rotating brake drum surface. The primary shoe tends to rotate with the brake drum, which forces the secondary shoe against the brake drum surface. The secondary shoe is held in place by the anchor pin located at the top or bottom of the backing plate. This creates an “internal expanding” or self-activated “servo” braking action. The simplicity of the drum brake allows it to act as a park brake by using a cable, lever and strut assembly to expand the primary and secondary shoes against the drum. Thanks to servo action, the parking brake feature in a drum brake
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DRUM BRAKES
DiagnosticSolutions]
DRUM BRAKE SERVICING TIPS: works better going forward than backward. The downside of drum brakes is that, because the brake linings aren’t exposed to moving air, they don’t easily dissipate heat during extended braking or shed water after being driven through a flooded intersection.
DRUM BRAKE HYDRAULICS During the 1970s when front disc brakes became universally popular, engineers were faced with making disc and drum braking systems compatible. Because a disc brake develops no servo action, it usually achieves braking torque by using vacuum booster to increase hydraulic pressure. But, thanks to servo action, drum brakes require much less hydraulic pressure to achieve the same amount of braking torque. Before anti-locking braking systems became popular during the 1990s, brake engineers designed a “combination valve” that usually contains a metering, proportioning and pressure differential valve. To prevent front wheel skid on slick roads, a metering valve was integrated into the combination valve that delays front disc application until a specific hydraulic pressure is reached in the front hydraulic circuit. And, since servo action would cause the rear brakes to prematurely lock up well before the disc brakes, engineers integrated a proportioning valve that limits the hydraulic pressure delivered to the rear wheel cylinders. Last, engineers integrated a pressure
(Above photo): Soak the axle hub with quality penetrating oil before removing the brake drum. A light coat of synthetic caliper grease applied to the hub will help prevent corrosion after the drum is reinstalled. (Below photo): Rapping the brake drum between the lug bolts with a two-pound or larger hammer will generally loosen the drum. In some applications, the brake drum incorporates two threaded puller screw holes designed to expedite drum removal.
Story continues on page 26
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[ DiagnosticSolutions DRUM BRAKES
When inspecting a drum brake, always inspect the wheel cylinder for leakage by prying away the rubber end cap. Because they can’t be successfully honed, aluminum wheel cylinders should be replaced.
Brake return springs not only retract the wheel cylinder pistons, they also allow the brake shoe’s self-adjusters to work correctly. Drum brakes usually require special tools to remove and install hold-down and return springs.
The presence of a chamfer usually indicates if a brake drum can be resurfaced. At the minimum, I recommend a shallow cut to true the surface and remove the inner and outer wear ridges.
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[ DiagnosticSolutions
DRUM BRAKES
Continued from page 23
differential warning light feature into some combination valves indicating when a fluid leak is causing a pressure differential to exist between the front and rear brake hydraulic systems. A suspension height-sensing valve was also added to some light trucks that reduces hydraulic pressure to the rear drum brakes when the truck is driven empty. Most of this hydraulic hardware was eliminated when anti-locking brake systems came into popular use during the 1990s. While most disc/drum hydraulic systems are split between front and rear, the brake hydraulics are split diagonally on some vehicles, meaning that the left front is hydraulically connected to the right rear and the right front to the left rear. In the absence of manufacturers’ recommendations, the front/rear split system-bleeding sequence is gener-
ally right rear, left rear, right front and left front. Dual/diagonal is generally bled right rear, left front, left rear and right front.
DRUM BRAKE FRICTION Because the primary and secondary brake shoes serve two distinctly different purposes, their frictional compositions and frictional areas are, in most cases, different. Since the primary purpose of the primary shoe is to apply pressure against the secondary shoe, its lining is generally shorter in length and develops less friction coefficient. The secondary lining, on the other hand, is generally longer and develops a higher friction coefficient. Unintentionally switching the two linings from front to rear will consequently modify drum brake performance
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[ DiagnosticSolutions
DRUM BRAKES
and reduce lining life. As a point of awareness, the “arc” or curvature of replacement linings is normally ground to a slightly smaller diameter than the brake drum. As a rule of thumb, about 0.020” of clearance will exist at the ends of the secondary lining when the shoe’s center is pressed against the drum. This shorter arc allows the brake lining to gradually seat into the drum and reduces brake squeal and chatter. In most cases, a lining is considered safe if 1/16” of the lining remains above the rivets, or if the remaining bonded lining thickness meets manufacturers’ specifications. As with disc brakes, different grades and brands of drum brake linings should never be mixed from carton-to-carton or from sideto-side in any application because each brand of lining usually develops different friction coefficients at different operating temperatures. As a cautionary note, small amounts of axle oil and brake fluid on the brake linings will magnify the servo effect, thus causing a premature wheel lockup or grabbing complaint. Since drum brake linings absorb fluids, the oil or brake fluid leak must be repaired, all parts cleaned, and the contaminated linings replaced to restore normal drum brake operation. Before installing the brake drum, always remove greasy fingerprints from the new brake linings with shop towels soaked in aerosol brake parts cleaner.
floor or tossing them into the bed of a pickup truck can cause an out-of-round condition. Similarly, the drums on a vehicle driven with the parking brake applied can develop a severe out-of-round condition when the brake cools. Either condition can cause a brake pulsation or grabbing complaint. While most imports utilize onepiece, cast-iron brake drums, many domestic or re-badged domestic vehicles utilize a two-piece drum consisting of a stamped metal hub mated to a cast-iron drum. In some cases, a two-piece drum can fit loosely on the axle hub, which allows the drum to rotate off-center. If the drum surface isn’t concentric with the axle hub, the shoes can’t be accurately adjusted. A drum concentricity problem can be detected when the shoes are adjusted to drag against the drum. If the drum isn’t concentric, the drum will bind and release when rotated. Most brake drums are manufactured with a chamfer cut into the edge of the drum surface indicating a general discard specification of 0.060” oversize for most cars and light trucks. But, in any case, it’s nearly impossible to estimate drum taper wear or out-of-round without using a brake drum
While most imports utilize one-piece, cast-iron brake drums, many domestic or re-badged domestic vehicles utilize a two-piece drum consisting of a stamped metal hub mated to a cast-iron drum.
BRAKE DRUMS Remember that carelessly dropping drums on the
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[ DiagnosticSolutions DRUM BRAKES
micrometer and, in most cases, a brake drum will not be as good as it looks. So investing in a good brake drum micrometer will pay for itself in terms of reduced comebacks and brake safety.
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DRUM BRAKE HYDRAULICS Moisture absorbed by the brake fluid will quickly corrode the wheel cylinders and eventually cause an intermittent brake pulling complaint when the wheel cylinder pistons begin to stick in their bores. While a wheel cylinder can be repaired by honing the cylinder and installing a wheel cylinder repair kit, replacing with new reduces potential liability and is more cost-effective. And, while you’re replacing the wheel cylinders, remember that weak brake springs will aggravate any tendency of the brake shoes to pull or drag. As standard procedure, the brake hoses, steel lines and master cylinder should also be inspected. If the vehicle comes through the door with brake application complaints like rear wheel lockup or premature disc brake application on slick road surfaces, it’s possible that the combination valve is inoperative. If you’re servicing an ’80s or earlier vehicle, be aware that most
drum brake master cylinders contain a residual check valve that increases pedal response by maintaining a small amount of hydraulic pressure in the system. To test for residual pressure, firmly apply the brake pedal and then check for a small spurt of fluid when the wheel cylinder bleeder screw is opened. Although it’s old technology, be aware that installing a drum brake master cylinder equipped with residual check valves on a disc brake system will cause the disc brakes to drag and wear prematurely. Remember also that residual check valves were designed out of later drum brake designs because they were no longer required. IC
Gary Goms is a former educator and shop owner who remains active in the aftermarket service industry. Gary is an ASE-certified Master Automobile Technician (CMAT) and has earned the L1 advanced engine performance certification. He also belongs to the Automotive Service Association (ASA) and the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE).
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[ TechFeature
PARASITIC DRAIN By Scott “Gonzo” Weaver, Contributing Writer
Parasitic Draw Hunting With A Voltmeter
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n the past, I’ve always hunted down parasitic draws with my multimeter set on the amperage scale in series with the battery cable, along with jumper leads to open and close the connection, so I could watch for the amperage drop. I also needed to know what a safe level was in order to see the actual draw (or lack of). Some techs use a dead-man switch attached to the battery post instead of jumper wires. For me, it’s whatever I have handy at the time, and time is money so the quicker I can get to the source of the problem, the better that is for my bottom line. Sometimes, these draw tests can take hours to complete, depending on what module you’re looking at and the length of time it takes to power down (Sleep Mode). I find it not only awkward, but a little confusing, to have all of these devices on an adjacent worktable or balancing precariously on the edge of the fender. It wouldn’t be the first time I’ve knocked something over and had to set it up all over again. I want to get in there, find out what’s wrong, inform the customer, and get the job done. And, it almost never fails that I’m the guy who will pick up the meter and find the amp fuse is blown because I never bothered to switch the leads back over before putting the meter away. I’m usually aware of this only after I’ve got everything all set up and ready to start my amperage draw tests. When this happens, it’s time to slow
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PARASITIC DRAIN
down, take the meter apart, remember where I hid the extra fuses so I wouldn’t lose them and then have to start over all again. The other thing you need to do to properly perform the draw test is the correct values for each system’s parasitic draw. I find it a lot easier to watch the meter values dropping off to their sleep mode when I have a pretty good idea as to which module it is. But this requires me to stand over the meter and be ready to pull fuses (if needed) at a moment’s notice, all of which is time consuming, involves lots of
connections that have to be working correctly, as well as a lot of patience on my part. With too many variables, something can, and usually does, go wrong. When it does, I think there has to be a better way. I really would like to have a way to at least isolate the offending circuit quickly, efficiently and accurately without all these hassles. How about a way I can see the draw without disconnecting anything? No pulling fuses, no need for a deadman switch and no need for that temperamental amp meter hook-up, which we all (me included)
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[ TechFeature forget to switch back when we check voltage the next time we need the meter. Well, there is‌ Before parasitic draw testing, it was the tried-and-true old test
PARASITIC DRAIN
light method between the battery post and cable. While it wasn’t precise as far as voltage or amperage, it was accurate enough and it got the job done. If the test light
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Parasitic Draw Test on Serial Data Bus Vehicles By Andrew Markel, Editor Brake & Front End A scan tool can be used as part of parasitic current draw test. As a general rule, a current draw of 100 mAmp or more is an indication something is not right. But, on modern import vehicles, a draw of less than 100 mAmp is not achieved immediately after the key is removed from the ignition. It might take up to 15 minutes for the computers and networks to become inactive. Also, while the vehicle is parked, system checks from the EVAP system or the telematics system can draw more than 100 mAmps. So, when is a modern vehicle really inactive enough to perform a draw test? Is it when the key is turned off? After 20 seconds? When the door is opened or closed? It can be confusing and might require advanced diagnostic strategies. The key to diagnosing the serial bus traffic and parasitic draws is in the OBD II connector on some latemodel vehicles. Some scan tools can watch the module go to sleep and drop off the bus, but some scan tools can keep a bus awake because it becomes a node on the bus and can, therefore, keep some modules awake when the key is off. The serial data bus wires for most of the buses on the vehicle can be found in the OBD II connector. A bus will toggle voltage typically for 0 to 7 volts to communicate binary information, and when a bus goes to sleep, the shifts in voltage stop. Connect or probe the appropriate pins in the OBD II connector to a meter or scope for the bus you think is causing the draw. Shut off the car, watch the bus go to sleep and eventually go to zero volts, and then carry out a draw test.
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PARASITIC DRAIN
was even partially lit up, there was a draw. I never worried about the actual amount; it wasn’t as important as the “where is it.” So, how about a way to locate these draws in a late-model car and not worry so much about the exact values; just find the problem and leave all that technical mumbo-jumbo aside. There is a way, and all it takes is your voltmeter. Start with a good multimeter (DVOM) with an mV scale (millivolts) and a couple of good test leads with sharp, pointed ends. Put the meter on the millivolt scale and your test leads on the two test points on the back of the suspected fuse, and then measure the voltage. Yes, put the negative lead from your meter on one of the fuse test terminals and the positive lead on the other. (On some fuses, these little test spots on top of the fuses are quite small, so this is where the sharpened points
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of the test leads will help out.) A good practice session for this method is to try this on a car that is working. Find the dome light fuse and watch the meter. If there is no current flow across the fuse, the meter will read a flat zero. If there is a current flow in the fuse, you will measure a steady voltage drop of some sort from the time the door is opened to the time the dome light finally goes off. It doesn’t matter what the voltage is, just that it is there. The reason this works is that all circuits have some resistance in them. This resistance to current flow causes a minute change in the voltage readings from the source to the load itself. Current flow also creates heat, heat increases resistance and current flow through this resistance is seen on your meter as a voltage drop. Any voltage measured across the fuse then indicates some current flow. If you get a small, fluctuating voltage, you’re probably not on the fuse test points. This is where those sharp test probes really help out again. There should be either no voltage at all, or some sus-
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[ TechFeature tained voltage level that will be constant. Just like any other testing method, practice makes perfect, and trying this out on a car with no problems is a good way
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PARASITIC DRAIN
to see how this whole thing works. Some mV meters are so sensitive that you may even see a fluctuating voltage reading as you
get close to the fuse, or in the air around the circuit when it’s not hooked to anything. If so, try touching the two leads together before you hook it up. If all is well, the meter should read zero voltage at that point. I prefer this method to the amp meter testing method. During the process, I’m not disconnecting anything, I’m still looking at a voltage drop (not amperage) and I’m less likely to screw up another amp fuse in my meter. I’ve even had success with this by starting at the MAXI fuse, then following the wiring diagram to break it down even further until I found the source of the draw. The only time I start pulling fuses is after I’ve gotten the draw isolated to one section of the wiring diagram or fuse box. I’m not concerned so much with accurate values or amperage loads, just where the draw is originating. The fact that I’m seeing voltage on the meter in a circuit that shouldn’t have any current movement is enough information for me to suspect that this circuit is the culprit. This is as close to using the old test light method as I’ve ever found. Mind you, the reason the test light worked at all is for the same reasons this test works. The presence of any load requires both positive and negative to create current flow. Thus, the reason the test light lit at all. Give it a try; I’m sure you’ll be impressed. Good hunting! IC
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HUB SERVICE By Bob Dowie, Import Specialist Contributor
Detecting and Solving Common Complaints
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n the past 15 years, Kia four-wheel-drive (4WD) and all-wheel drive (AWD) systems have evolved from vacuum hubs and manual shifting transfer cases to fully electronic systems that use magnetic clutches for push-button operation. While you may never have to replace the entire transfer case or transmission on the popular Sportage and Sorento SUVs, you will have to replace hubs, sensors and solenoids on your customers’ vehicles. In this article, we’ll start with the early systems on the 2000 Sportage. The most common complaint you’ll encounter is no 4WD operation, which can usually be traced to problems with the vacuum-actuated front hubs. Kia requires that the driver shift the transfer case into four-wheel-drive, choosing either high- or low-range gearing. The driver must then flip a switch that opens a vacuum-control valve, sending vacuum to the locking front hubs and engaging them to the drive axles. If there’s a weak link in the system, it’s the hubs. The hubs can cause a couple of problems. The first, and most common, is no engagement. Many times, these troubles can be traced to the vacuum supply, rather than a mechanical problem with the
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hubs themselves. The first step is to be sure you have vacuum at the hubs with 4WD engaged and the engine running. If not, work backward looking for the vacuum leak; a convenient test point is the “T” fitting by the master cylinder where the lines branch off to the left and right sides. This “T” is downstream of the control solenoid and vacuum storage tank, so if you have vacuum here, you should have it at the hubs. Many times, the problem is as simple as broken or disconnected vacuum hoses leading to the hub. But, there have been reports of problems with the steel lines running to the wheels. Over the years, these lines can rust, restricting flow and, in the worst cases, causing leaks. There are updated parts available, and Kia has issued a TSB on the subject (see sidebar on page 44), but line replacement can be a tedious task. Many techs report good success with alternate methods of repair, but you’ll have to make the choice as to what’s the best course of action for your situation. Another problem you can run into with the hubs involves engagement when it’s not called for. Usually described as a noise, in this case the hubs are sticking, and the wheels are engaging and disengaging the drive, the axles and front differential while the transfer case is in the twowheel-drive position. Many times, simply backing up the truck will take care of this problem, but often it’s an indication that the hubs should come apart to be cleaned and lubed. Depending on the condition of the original units,
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[ KiaFeature replacement hubs may be in order. In the case of the Sportage, road grime that’s finding its way into the hub through the previously discussed vacuum system can cause this problem. If the 4WD isn’t used very often, the broken or disconnected vacuum lines could have been overlooked for quite a while.
REPLACEMENT HUBS Should you find yourself in the position where replacement hubs are required, or if the customer values reliability over convenience, consider changing over to the almost-bulletproof aftermarket manually operated hubs. These units provide a low-cost
HUB SERVICE
alternative to the automatic units and, while they require the driver to lock the hubs when 4WD is anticipated or required, many customers find it an attractive alternative. If you do go with the manual hubs, be sure to seal any of the vacuum fittings to prevent debris from getting into the hubs, and disconnect the supply solenoid to prevent a manifold leak when 4WD is selected. It’s also a good time to service the wheel bearings or, at the very least, make any bearing adjustment that’s required. The rest of the 4WD system on these vehicles presents more service opportunities than diagnostic challenges. Be sure to Story continues on page 48
4WD Control Vacuum Line Condition: Four-wheel-drive mode inoperative (diagnosed either during or after replacing knuckles and hub seals) due to insufficient vacuum being applied to the hubs. In some cases, moisture has entered the vacuum system and the vacuum lines have become corroded, plugged or have developed a leak. Corrective Action: Verify that with the 4WD mode selected, vacuum is present at the Tfitting downstream from the solenoid. If not, diagnose and repair as required. Otherwise, use the following procedure to replace the vacuum lines: Go to www.ICRapidResponse.com
Note: Refer to section 4360 of the parts catalog for part numbers, etc. Procedure applies to the right-side line; the left side needs no further information. Service Procedure: 1. Disconnect and remove the battery and battery tray. 2. Leaving ground cables attached, remove the clamp bracket from the battery tray bottom and move it out of the way. 3. Remove the plastic air resonator and disconnect the throttle cable (plus A/T control cable, if equipped). 4. Disconnect the MAF and IAC connectors, and the 6 mm bolt
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[ KiaFeature holding the DLC and MAF brackets to the air cleaner housing. 5. Disconnect the air intake tube from the throttle body, and the MAF sensor from the air filter housing. 6. Remove the tube, duct and sensor assembly and set aside. 7. Loosen the rear engine hanger bracket and front surge tank support bracket. 8. Disconnect the coolant lines from the throttle body, or (alternatively) remove the throttle body from the surge tank but leave the coolant lines attached. Remove the surge tank. 9. Cover the intake to prevent anything from falling in. 10. Mark the steering column shaft and coupling for later reference. See Photo 1. 11. Loosen the clamps on both sides of the coupling and slide the coupling back on the intermediate shaft, disconnecting it Photo 1 from the steering column. 12. Disconnect the vacuum hoses in the right wheel well and from the T-fitting below the 4WD solenoid on the driver’s side of the engine compartment. 13. Pry the vacuum line loose from the four plastic retainer clips; two on the bulkhead, two on the inner wheel wells. 14. Using the slack in the harness and carefully bending the vacuum line only as necessary, free the line from behind the harness bundle
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HUB SERVICE
against the RF inner wheel well. 15. Free the vacuum line from behind the brake line attached to the outboard position of the differential pressure valve. Note: Try leaving the old line intact while removing it and carefully observe the “route” you use to get it out. This will serve as “practice” that will come in handy when you install the new one.
16. Starting from the driver’s side, free up the old line and move it up until it clears the cylinder head at the location of rear engine hanger. Move and “snake” the line carefully as required to free it up and pull it out. 17. Install the new line the same way, and assemble everything in reverse order. Observe the reference mark on steering shaft when reassembling. 18. Test-drive and check 4WD operation. Courtesy of Kia Motors America.
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[ KiaFeature
HUB SERVICE
Story continued from page 44
figure on changing the fluid in both differentials as well as the transfer case when doing a major service on a Sportage. Of course, any work on the hubs will have you also checking the brakes.
4WD & AWD ON LATE-MODEL KIAS Looking at the later-model 4WD Kias, we see them moving away from locking hubs that engage the 4WD, and moving toward systems that de-couple the 4WD differential from the primary drive. After a short hiatus, the reinvented Sportage was back on the market in 2005. Kia made big changes, one of which was going with a lighter duty, crossovertype FWD platform vehicle that engages the rear wheels to provide AWD as needed with a driver-controlled, lockup option. By looking at various sensors, the control unit decides when torque will be delivered to the rear wheels and at what percentage. By looking at individual wheel speeds and throttle position, brake input and steering angle, the control module will send a command to the rear differential-mounted coupler, applying the appropriate pressure to the internal clutch pack for the given conditions. While the coupler handles the varying load, the continuously engaged, transaxle-mounted transfer case does the job of keeping the driveshaft spinning. If the conditions require 4WD operation, the driver can choose to lock into FWD, providing the maximum 50/50 split to both axles. Designed for
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low-speed operation, the control unit will begin to disable the lock at 18 mph, and, at 25 mph, the lock system is fully disabled. As speeds come down, the lock feature will re-engage. Being speed dependent, if there is a problem with the wheel speed sensors, the lock option is disabled.
REPAIR ISSUES When it comes to potential problems, most will be mechanical issues, noises or vibrations. Instead of two CV axles there are four, and you have to consider the driveshaft as the shakes and noises are diagnosed. The wheel bearings and hubs are no different than what we see on any 4WD or AWD vehicle. The only serviceable items in the coupler are the bearings. If you’re faced with a blinking 4WD lamp on the dash, or a suspect a problem with the system, it will be difficult to go much further without a scan tool that has enhanced software that will give you access to codes and data. Even with the very good information on the free Kia service information site (www.kiatechinfo.com), you would be hard-pressed to have a successful outcome without the tooling. With the transfer case mounted to the transaxle, when it comes to maintenance on the system, it’s easy for an inexperienced tech to think they share lubrication. That is not the case with the Kia and it’s important that the fluid level in the transfer case be checked and replaced on the same interval as you recommend for the transaxle.
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[ KiaFeature
HUB SERVICE
THE SORENTO SYSTEM The Kia Sorento models up to 2009 offered both a part-time on-demand system, as well as an optional full-time AWD system. We’ll take a look at the parttime system that Kia refers to as “Electronic Shift Transfer (EST),” that uses an electrically controlled transfer case as well as an air pump system to engage the front axle. This allows for shifting “on the fly,” from 2WD to 4WD, applying a fixed amount of torque. When in 2WD, the front “free running differential” is decoupled from the driveshaft, eliminating any noise or vibration while also eliminating the need for locking hubs. When the 4WD switch is selected, an electric air pump is commanded on to pressurize the coupler, engaging the front differential pinion to the driveshaft, while the transfer case-mounted motor moves the shift forks. Then, finally, the magnetic clutch closes, providing torque to the front driveshaft. This is all controlled and monitored by the transfer case control module (TCCM). With either system, the vehicle has to be stopped to engage 4WD low range.
Like the Sportage, if the TCCM sees a problem, the 4WD lamp will flash. No tool is required to retrieve codes with the EST system. When no codes are present, turning the key on should result in the 4WD lamp lighting for 0.6 seconds as a bulb check, and then it will turn off. If codes are present, the bulb check will be followed by a flash code in three seconds. There are seven codes available using ones and zeros. A short 0.5-second flash represents a zero, while a one-second flash indicates a one. The code will repeat itself three times; for example two shorts and one long flash is 001 (see flash diagram above). There have been some problems with both the
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transfer case motor and air pump used for the differential coupler. That’s not too surprising, considering that the system spends most of the time in two-wheel operation. Sometimes, a simple tap on the transfer case shift motor or air pump will shorten the diagnostic process. Of course, a motor that comes back to life with a tap is certainly suspect and should be replaced, but that’s between you and the customer. If you do find yourself diagnosing the front differential coupler, keep in mind that it operates on 5-8 psi, so don’t just put the shop air to it. When it comes to maintenance, the transfer case fluid is critical to long bearing and clutch life, so much so that transfer case oil pumps are used to keep it moving; be sure it’s checked and changed with the recommended fluid. On all 4WD or AWD systems, tire size conformity is critical. The first diagnostic step for any problem should be to measure tire circumference. While the method doesn’t matter (we measure circumference with a narrow tape), just be sure they are the same size. Ideally, they will all be within 1/16”. Much more than that should bring up the discussion of tire replacement, especially if the problem involves binding or engagement issues in an on-demand system that appears to operate as expected. On automatic or AWD systems, tire size is even more critical as the system sees the speed differential of the tire size as slippage and adjusts accordingly. It’s easy to see how this would shorten the life of the clutches. This is why it’s so important that tires be replaced only in sets of four. IC
Bob Dowie has been in the automotive service business for 43 years, and his shop, Village Auto Works in Chester, NY, specializes in Honda, Toyota, Mazda and Nissan repair. Dowie owns and runs a Honda Civic and Nissan Sentra SER in SCCA GT Lite Class racing, and gets his technicians involved in various aspects of the sport.
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[ TechUpdate
Air ride system By Andrew markel, editor, Brake & Front End magazine
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hen an air ride system fails, it can fail in a big way. It’s a rarity when just one component fails. More than likely, it will be a cascade of failures that can lead to a huge repair bill. So make it a point to inspect the system before a health check turns into an autopsy. The first signs of a failing system may be a compressor that runs a little longer than expected or a blown fuse. These are symptoms of a problem with the system, but they are also a problem on their own.
AIR COMPRESSORS When a compressor runs more than normal, it can cause debris to enter the system. It can also increase the amount of moisture in the system. Both scenarios can damage the valves and other sensitive components in the air ride system. Most passenger and light truck compressors are a diaphragmtype that supplies an oil-free air supply to the springs. A pistontype compressor is available for custom systems; it’s designed for intermittent service to inflate the air springs. Running the compressor for extended periods can also overheat the compressor and damage the diaphragm or piston. It’s very important to ensure that the source of air for the compressor is as clean and dry as possible. Another thing to remember is that most compressors operate in not in the cleanest of environments. Most are mounted under vehicles, where they can be subjected to road spray. Most systems are equipped with a dryer that is connected to the compressor outlet to absorb the water entering the system. The dryer contains a moisture-absorbing desiccant such as silica gel. The desiccant can hold a given amount of water,
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Air ride system
but once it becomes saturated, it can no longer prevent water from entering the system. The dryers that are installed on most systems do not have an indicator that will show when they’re saturated and no longer able to absorb water. An additional dryer with a moisture indicator can be added to the original equipment dryer. Some are not serviceable and are incorporated into the compressor unit. They have a limited
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life and any compromises in the system can lead to an early demise.
FLUSHING THE LINES It’s a common practice to flush transmission lines after a transmission has failed internally. The same is true for air ride systems. The lines of a damaged system can hold moisture and debris from a failed compressor. Failing to flush the lines can lead to the premature failure of a new
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[ TechUpdate
Air ride system
component, including the air struts and shocks. Flushing the lines with compressed air should remove any debris. Do not use brake cleaner as the solvents could damage the lines.
AIR BLADDERS Air bags and bladders are not the weakest link in the system. Advances in the synthetic materials that are used to make the air bag help the air chamber resist leaks and tears. Internal damage caused by compressor debris can
cause a leak in the air bag. Oil from the compressor may also cause damage to the internal surfaces of the bladder. This can weaken the spring and cause it to fail. Nothing is worse than a come-
back or having to warranty a repair you already performed. Besides hurting your bottom line, it hurts your reputation with the customer and your suppliers. Piece-mealing out an air suspension repair by replacing the next failed component is not fixing a vehicle, putting your shop at risk for a costly comeback. IC
Andrew Markel is the editor of Brake & Front End and Servicio Automotriz magazines. He has been with Babcox Media for 13 years. He is a technician and former service writer and holds several automotive certifications from ASE and aftermarket manufacturers. He can be reached at amarkel@babcox.com.
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[ TechUpdate
BRAKE PAD DELAMINATION By Andrew Markel, Editor, Brake & Front End Magazine
How Long Should a Brake Job Last? The Pressure Is On With New Customer Expectations
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very technician knows it’s impossible to estimate how long a set of brake pads will last. But, due to changing ownership cycles, your customers are developing new expectations. According to R.L. Polk, the typical consumer held onto a vehicle for 57 months in 2012. This is up from 38 months in 2002. So, if a customer drives 15,000 miles a year, the customer will accumulate 23,000 more miles before they trade it in. These extra miles could mean an extra front brake job, or rear pads during their ownership cycle. These repair incidents create points of reference that form certain customer expectations that were not there just a decade ago. But, in some cases, reality may not meet customer expectations. Why? Each time the brakes are serviced, the pads could be compromised by the previous brake jobs that did not restore the brakes to like-new condition. The brake hardware might not have been replaced during the first brake job. Halfway through the customer-expected life of the pads, the abutment clips may have corroded and lost their spring. The guide pins could have been neglected on the next brake job. Now, the pads wear really unevenly and the customer will notice that mileage between pad changes has significantly dropped. Performing a complete brake job will break the cycle. A normal customer-expected wear interval cannot be achieved if a low-quality brake pad set is used. One area that is consistently compromised is the quality of the backing plate and how it retains
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the friction material during the life of the brake job. Keeping a friction material attached to a piece of metal under more than 1,400 psi and shearing forces is not something to take for granted when selecting a replacement brake pad. If the attachment method and implementation is sub-standard, it can result in noise and, eventually, failure of the pad before it’s worn to the OEM specifications. This is called edge lift or delamination. It’s caused by failure of the attachment method and can be hastened by corrosion. The first symptom of the failure is noise. The noise is a result of the separation, causing irregularities in the braking surface and the pad now having completely different NVH properties. Some manufacturers are using mechanical attachment methods that can prevent delamination in a brake pad. The technology allows brake pads to be run down to the last few millimeters of friction material. The bond can be resistant to shear loads, corrosion and heat. This makes for a pad that can meet or exceed a customer’s expectations for pad life. In a recent survey of technicians and shops conducted by ImportCar magazine, noise was the primary reason why a customer brought their vehicle in to have the brakes inspected. They did not bring it in for a low-priced brake job. Customers are concerned about safety, not a low price. They can see the value in getting more miles out of a complete brake job, over a cheap brake job that has them returning to you sooner than expected. IC
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[ ImportTechTips HONDA HARD START/LONG CRANK TIME
Applies To: 2003 Accord V6 — All 2004 Accord V6 2-door — From VIN 1HGCM8...4A000001 through 1HGCM8...4A024092 2004 Accord V6 4-door — From VIN 1HGCM6...4A000001 through 1HGCM6...4A1 00943 If a customer complains that one of the above models is experiencing excessive cranking or hard starting, Software Information: there are two possible causes: Year Program ID Program Part Number 1. Contamination in the fuel pres2003 CA3150 37805-RCA-315 sure regulator causes the regulator CA 3160 37805-RCA-316 to stick or intermittently stick, CAA060 37805-RCA-A06 which causes a delay in fuel presCAL060 37805-RCA-L06 sure at start-up. 2004 CAA250 37805-RCA-A25 2. Exhaust gas backflow into the CAA750 37805-RCA-A75 intake manifold at engine shutCAL250 37805-RCA-L25 down may cause a poor mixture of CAL750 37805-RCA-L75 intake air and fuel at the next HDS Software Version: 2.004.004 or later, PGM-FI Software Versions or later. engine start-up. Diagnosis: Corrective Action: 1. Install a fuel pressure gauge. (Refer to steps Replace the fuel pressure regulator, if needed, 1 and 2 on page 11-332 of the 2003-’06 Accord V6 and use the HDS to update the PGM-FI software Service Manual Supplement, or online, enter keyin the ECM/PCM. word GAUGE TEST, and select Fuel Gauge Note: 2004 Accords within the following VIN Sending Unit Test [V6 Engine] from the list.) ranges already have an improved fuel pressure 2. Start the engine and let it idle for 2 minutes. regulator. For these vehicles, skip Diagnosis, and 3. Turn off the engine. Check the fuel pressure go to step 10 of the Repair Procedure on page 62 gauge. Pressure should be 380 to 430 kpa (55 to to update the PGM-FI software in the 63 psi). ECM/PCM: 4. Monitor the fuel pressure reading. If the fuel — VIN 1HGCM8...4A018621 through pressure bleeds down quickly after the engine is 1HGCM8...4A024092 turned off, go to the Repair Procedure. If the fuel — VIN 1HGCM6...4A068600 through pressure does not drop quickly, go to step 10 of the 1HGCM6...4A100943 Repair Procedure to update the PGM-FI software. Note: There is no specification for the fuel presParts/Tool Information: sure bleed rate. Many variables can affect fuel Fuel Pressure Regulator: P/N 16015-SDB-A00 line pressure, such as the fuel pump and fuel Fuel Pump Module Gasket Set: P/N 17046injectors. A bad regulator will lose most of the SDA-A30 fuel pressure in the first few minutes after shutFuel Sender Wrench: P/N 07AAA-S0XA100
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[ ImportTechTips
Fig. 2: Honda Fig. 1: Honda
ting off the engine. Repair Procedure: 1. Relieve the fuel pressure. 2. Remove the fuel tank unit. 3. Remove the fuel tank unit from its case. — Disconnect the fuel tank sending unit connector. See Fig. 1. — Release the three clips, and then pull out the fuel tank unit from the case. See Fig. 2. 4. Release the clips, then remove the fuel pressure regulator mount from the fuel tank unit. 5. Remove the clip, then remove the fuel pressure regulator. Install the new regulator with new O-rings. Reassemble the fuel tank unit. 6. Place the new gasket onto the tank body. 7. Align the marks on the fuel tank unit and the fuel tank.
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(See page 11-327, step 11 of the 2003-’06 Accord V6 Service Manual Supplement.) Install the fuel tank unit into the tank without dislodging the gasket. Using hand pressure only, slide the fuel tank unit into the tank until it is properly seated. 8. Using the fuel sender wrench, torque the new fuel tank locknut to 93 Nm (69 lb.ft). Note: Do not use the locknut to force the pump into the tank. 9. Reinstall all removed parts. 10. Use the HDS to update the PGM-FI software in the ECM/PCM, using HDS version 2.004.004 or later. To update the PGM-FI software, refer to service bulletin 01-023, Updating Control Units/Modules. 11. Do the idle learn procedure: — Make sure all electrical items (A/C, audio unit, defogger, lights, etc.) are off.
— Start the engine, and let it warm up to its normal operating temperature (the cooling fans cycle twice). — Let the engine idle (throttle closed and all electrical items off) for 10 minutes. 12. Do the low-rpm CKP pattern learn procedure: — Test-drive the vehicle on a level road. With the A/T in second gear or the M/T in second or third gear, decelerate (with the throttle fully closed) from an engine speed of 2,500 rpm down to 1,000 rpm. — Stop the vehicle, and put the transmission into Park or Neutral. Set the parking brake. Do not turn off the ignition. 13. Connect the HDS to the DLC, and check the status of PULSER F/B LEARN: — On the Selection Menu, select PGM-FI. — On the Mode Menu, select
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ImportTechTips] Data List. — Check the value of PULSER F/B LEARN. — If the value is Completed, go to step 14. — If the value is Not Completed, be sure the engine is at normal operating temperature (the ECT SENSOR [1] value is 176 or higher), and repeat step 12. 14. Do the high-rpm CKP pattern learn: Note: The low-rpm CKP pattern learn must be completed before you do the high-rpm CKP pattern learn. — Test-drive the vehicle on a level road. With the transmission in first gear, decelerate (with the throttle fully closed) from an engine speed of 5,000 rpm down to 3,000 rpm. — Stop the vehicle and put the transmission into Park or Neutral. Set the parking brake. Do not turn off the ignition. 15. Connect the HDS to the DLC (if not already connected), and check the status of PULSER F/B LEARN (HIGH RPM): — On the Selection Menu, select PGM-FI. — On the Mode Menu, select Data List. — Check the value of PULSER F/B LEARN (HIGH RPM). — If the value is Completed, you’ve completed the CKP pattern learn procedure. — If the value is Not Completed, be sure the engine is at normal operating temperature (the ECT SENSOR [1] value is 176 or higher), and repeat step 14. 16. Start the vehicle a couple of times to make sure the symptom is repaired. If it’s not, continue with normal troubleshooting procedures for hard-starting problems. Courtesy of ALLDATA.
FUEL FILLER NECKS AND RELATED CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CONDITIONS
Since the introduction of the OBD II system, manufacturers have continued to improve on the monitoring of evaporative emissions, with the complete evaporative system being under a scrutinized surveillance. Codes like P0440 to P0456 are all related Reader Service: go to www.ICRapidResponse.com
to the fuel vapor control, including leaks. Starting early this century, manufacturers have increased the development of fuel vapor retention, preventing the vapors from escaping into the atmosphere. This prompted many changes in the design and location of certain components such as charcoal canisters mounted near the fuel tank. A fuel tank pressure sensor is used to monitor the pressure decay in the system during the testing and will turn on the check engine light if the pressure decay moves out of specification. Remember that the evaporative system test will not be performed if the fuel level is below a 1/4, as it would cause for too much pressure buildup in the tank or simply would take too much time to build any pressure. A helpful tool to identify leaks is a smoke-generating machine. During the smoke machine process, loose or broken hoses are usually identified as the main cause of evaporative failures. An additional component has started to surface and is becoming the leading cause of evaporative emissions leaks — the fuel filler neck. Most fuel filler necks are made of steel and are secured to the fuel tank via a rubber hose. The fuel filler neck is usually enclosed in the rear fender well, where an accumulation of dirt and debris causes the filler neck to rust and leak. These models are hard to diagnose, as the inner fender protection must be removed to get access. Others are totally exposed behind the fender where plashing and road debris erosion removes paint and perforates the filler neck. The filler cap, which besides not being properly secured after refueling, may cause multiple failures of the system as well. The fuel filler cap may have a defective control valve and prevent pressure hold in the system. Second, the filler neck itself may have rust on the outer seam, which will prevent the cap from sealing properly to the filler neck. On some models, the part where the cap screws on is made of plastic and can be damaged by the fueling nozzle when inserted during refill, which will prevent proper sealing. All of these situations will cause the check Import-Car.com
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[ ImportTechTips engine light to turn on. Make sure to implement fuel filler neck inspection into your regular vehicle maintenance or during fuel tank removal to prevent comebacks. Courtesy of Spectra Premium.
A DAY IN THE LIFE OF A CONTAMINATED O2 SENSOR
Since the oxygen sensor is in Watch for the bias voltage to the exhaust stream, it can beFigure 3: Antifreeze contamigradually lower as the sensor come contaminated over time. nated O2 sensor heats. Much like a spark plug, the • Watch for the sensor to oxygen sensor can be examcome down to less than 100 mV ined and “read” to determine within three minutes of KOEO what the cause of contaminatime. After three minutes, all tion might be. sensors should have about the • Black sooty deposits same voltage with the KOEO. would indicate an excessiveA failed or contaminated sensor ly rich fuel mixture condition may be slow or may not get down to 100 mV at all. or oil blow-by in an older engine. • If one of the sensor voltages remains high, • A common type of contamination is due to that sensor could be causing a no DTC coolant being burnt in the combustion chamber driveability concern. likely due to an engine gasket leak. See Fig. 3. • Lead poisoning is no longer common, due to Oxygen Sensor Replacement the lack of leaded fuel, but the emulsifying of the • The primary sensor is on the manifold or the “terne” plating inside a steel fuel tank due to the exhaust pipe; late-model vehicles also have sensors excessive use of fuel system cleaners or alcohol farther downstream. Because many late-model can cause this same condition. vehicles have multiple oxygen sensors, be sure you correctly identify the bad sensor so you do not misTypical Switching Oxygen Sensor Diagnosis takenly replace the wrong one. • Look at the sensor voltage when the engine Vehicle manufacturers identify “bank1” vs. is cold and the ignition is first switched on. The “bank2” and “front/rear” vs. “pre/post” positions heaters will cause the sensor to conduct current. somewhat differently, so care should be taken to make sure you’ve identified the right (problem) sensor. • Unplug the wire Toyota Mode $06 data related to the O2 sensor and heater.
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[ ImportTechTips Fig. 4: Mazda
connection, then spray penetrating lubricant onto the threaded connection. • Use an appropriate oxygen sensor removal tool. • Most oxygen sensors come with a special electrically conductive anti-seize compound applied to the threads, so it’s merely a matter of threading the new sensor into the void left by the old one. • If the new sensor does not have anti-seize pre-applied, be sure to apply some to the threads prior to installing the sensor. Do not put excessive amounts of anti-seize onto the threads. Getting anti-seize compound on the sensing area will contaminate it. • Always check the appropriate reference material for the required torque specification. Once it’s snug, plug the connector into the vehicle’s factory wiring to finish the task. • Using Mode $06 Test Data – Once an oxygen sensor repair is made, Mode $06 data can be useful to determine if the oxygen sensor is operating correctly and the repair was effective. – Mode $06 is the actual system test data that OBD II looks at when it decides to set a pending or current fault code. • The chart on page 64 is an example of the Mode $06 data that can be obtained with regard to the oxygen sensors. Courtesy of Delphi Product and Service Solutions.
MAZDA AIR INTAKE SELECTOR MODE SWITCH FAILURE
Applies To: 2003-’06 Mazda6 vehicles equipped with manual air conditioning system. Some vehicles may experience an air selector mode switch that will not switch into recirculation mode. This condition may be caused by a lack of continuity in the mode switch. Repair Procedure: 1. Verify the customer’s concern. 2. Record the customer’s preset radio stations. 3. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 4. Remove the climate control unit assembly. See Fig. 4. 5. Replace the mode switch with a modified part. See Fig. 5. 6. Reinstall the climate control unit assembly. 7. Reconnect the negative battery cable. 8. Re-enter the customer’s pre-set radio stations. 9. For 2006 models only:
Fig. 5: Mazda
Perform the “Power Window Initialization Procedure.” 10. Verify the repair. Power Window Initialization Procedure: 1. Turn the ignition to the On position. 2. From the driver’s seat, ensure the window lockout switch is not depressed. See Fig. 6. 3. Press the window switch down to fully open the door window. 4. Pull the window switch up to fully close the door window; hold the switch up for two seconds and then release it. 5. Move to the front passenger seat and repeat steps 3 and 4 on the passenger window switch. 6. Verify the proper window operation using each door switch. Courtesy of Mitchell 1. IC
Fig. 6: Mazda
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Track Talk Pit Pro: NASCAR Tech Grad Boasts Two Championships in the Pits The success of a single athlete or sports team is measured by one thing — championships. Just ask NASCAR pit crewman Colin Fambrough who’s already been a part of two NASCAR Sprint Cup Series Championship teams during his relatively short tenure in the pits. The Tyler, TX, native is currently employed by Penske Racing as the rear-tire changer on the No. 2 Miller Lite Ford Fusion driven by 2012 NASCAR Sprint Cup Series Champion Brad Keselowski. While Fambrough, 29, has quickly achieved the success some accumulate over the course of a career, he has no plans of slowing down anytime soon. In 1992, Fambrough’s journey to the top of one of the nation’s most popular sports began in the living room of his childhood home. Fambrough questioned his mother’s taste in television when she flipped over to the NASCAR race that happened to be Richard Petty’s last. Fambrough couldn’t have been less interested, and recalls asking his mother, “Why are you watching this?” She shared that she once had the opportunity to meet Petty, and showed him photos of her and Petty’s legendary No. 43 racecar. “From that point on, I began watching NASCAR,” Fambrough said. “I started
going to the local dirt tracks and watching the races live.” But it wasn’t until 1999 when Fambrough saw the pack hit turn one at Daytona International Speedway that his true passion for the sport was ignited. “It was the coolest thing I had ever seen. It was an amazing experience.” After seeing a commercial about NASCAR Technical Institute (NASCAR Tech) a few years later, he realized this was the avenue he had been searching for to break into the sport. “I realized there was a practical application to attending NASCAR Tech,” he said. “The first portion of the program is focused around automotive technology where you acquire skills and knowledge that are manufacturer specific. They provide a foundation for a career as a technician, regardless of the desire to work for a NASCAR team.” After some discussion, Fambrough’s parents were on board and he was soon in “Race City, USA” (Mooresville, NC) going to school. To his surprise, he was learning more than just automotive skills. “It was remarkable meeting different people and seeing diverse perspectives of life,” Fambrough said. “I was around people who had the
the hard work would pay dividends down the road. Copp helped Fambrough secure an interview with Roush Fenway Racing, and after a series of interviews and tryouts, he made the team. At the same time, Fambrough befriended a young, developmental driver coming up the ranks named Joey Logano. By chance, Logano’s own race team at the time was down a pit crew Since graduating from NASCAR member. Asking for volunTech, Colin Fambrough, right-rear tire changer on the No. 2 Miller Lite teers, Fambrough jumped on Ford Fusion, has spent much of his the opportunity and the next NASCAR career in victory lane. day was at the track getting his (Photo Credit: John Harrelson, first real-life taste of pit road. Getty Images) When Logano signed with same interests and goals, and Joe Gibbs Racing, Fambrough that really helped me undersoon followed, inking a deal stand who, and what, I wantwith the team as a pit crew ed to be. For the first time, I member. Since then, was doing much more than Fambrough has spent much what I needed to do to get by. of his career in victory lane, It was the first thing that realpitting cars for some of the ly had me interested.” sport’s best drivers including As Fambrough approached Jimmie Johnson, who graduation, he began the Fambrough pitted for during process of looking for a job the 2010 season when he capand turned to his instructors tured the NASCAR Sprint Cup for guidance. Fambrough’s Series Championship. instructor, D.J. Copp, advised Fambrough credits drive, him to learn how to pit cars, determination and a great continue practicing and begin education as the keys to his talking to race teams to get success. “NASCAR Tech prohis foot in the door. vided me with an opportunity “My instructor said being a to begin my career, and withpart of a pit crew opens out them I don’t think I another set of doors outside would be where I am today,” of being a technician,” he said. “NASCAR Tech Fambrough said. Fambrough offered options that provided was now a NASCAR Tech stume with a successful career dent by day and training vigand that is really hard to orously at night to hone his beat.” pit crew skills. Times were tough, but Fambrough knew By Josh Reed, NASCAR
Follow NASCAR Performance on Twitter and Facebook www.twitter.com/NASCARauto www.facebook.com/NASCARPerformance
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