B&B Mag December 2009 Edition

THE SUN... THE SAND... THE SURF... THE CULTURE OF PARADISE AND OVER 18,000 SURROUNDING ISLANDS

BALI & BEYOND DECEMBER 2009 VOLUME 11 NO. 115

REMARKABLE

LAND OF WARRIORS DISCOVER THE VIRGINAL BEAUTY AND LANDSCAPE OF NIAS ISLAND, AND ITS LIVING MEGALITHIC CULTURE

Twinkle, Twinkle

LIKE A STAR AN ECLECTIC RANGE OF FINE JEWELRY TO TREAT THAT SPECIAL PERSON OVER THE FESTIVE SEASON

COMPLIMENTARY

www.baliandbeyond.co.id

YEAR-END

Feasts n’ Festivities

HIGHLIGHTS AT VARIOUS HOTELS AND VENUES WITH CHRISTMAS AND NEW YEAR REVELRIES

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NEW & NEWS • INFO INDEX • MAP OF BALI • CLASSIFIED COLUMNS BALI&BEYOND

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TEAMTALK

teamtalk 12.09 THE YEAR’S-END IS NIGH UPON US...

‘Om Swastyastu...’

Welcome to Bali and the Indonesian archipelago!

It’s close to the year’s end as we present to you this last edition in our eleventh volume… Welcome to the December ‘09 edition of Bali & Beyond!

With only one month until another turn of the year, we have already received updates from our various hotel and tourism industry partners with their full list of festive plans and programs that will welcome 2010.

In dedicated pages, we chart the happenings that occur throughout the month, so flip through to the various program information that we have gathered through the generous support of various luxury hotels and venues for the Christmas and New Year cheer that colors the agenda.

Featured in this edition is information we think will be useful to you during your adventures on the island. First up, Craft & Culture presents to you some aspects of the agrarian Balinese life.

Along with the stretches of beautiful beaches and green terraced rice paddies that the island is best known for, there are also rich traditions and lore, practiced and passed down through the generations. Admire the flowing green hillside terraces that the Balinese farmers tend to daily, and learn about the Balinese version of pest control that keeps the traditions, and the harvests, going.

In the more modern lifestyle and luxury edge, with Lifestyle & Leisure this Christmas we take you to a boutique, smack-dab on a slightly curving wayside beside a rice field on Petitenget road. View the most eclectic and extensive range of fine ornaments

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at the Jemme Jewellery Boutique, and spoil your loved ones with something truly special and original this Christmas. Jemme also offers a collection of jewels to suit everyone’s price range, so go on and treat that special person over the festive season.

Through Action & Attraction, plunge into the Coral Reef Restoration Project in the waters off Nusa Dua. The dive sites just beyond the reefs there may not be the best, compared to the likes of Menjangan, Nusa Penida, Tulamben, Seraya, or other of the island’s famous dive sites, but these are easily accessible and boast quite a good variety of reef fish to admire. The restoration effort will ensure its appeal for generations. Find out how you can take part.

And in Beyond Bali, our team of contributors transports you into another era to Nias Island, located in a chain of islands parallel to the coast that is separated from Sumatra by the Mentawai Strait. Discover its exotic surfing, virginal beauty and rugged landscape, and one of the few remaining megalithic cultures in existence today.

These are just some of the features for you to enjoy this December.

For those who are still ‘beyond the archipelago’ and accustomed to viewing our monthly parallel online edition, we hope you can actually make it here and pay a visit to see the beauty, diverse highlights and colorful attractions for yourself!

See you next month, next year!

contributors

Fadil Aziz is a travel photographer whose main passion is capturing the archipelago’s beauty. View his portfolio at www.alcibbumphotography.com

Pariama Hutasoit is a seasoned correspondent, former editor and environmentalist. She now leads a recently launched coral reef restoration project.

Josua Alessandro loves to photograph human subjects, cultures and landscapes. His portfolio can be viewed at www.escapadepictures.com

Patricia Ivana loves writing, which also finances her travels. She loves the beach and wishes to go to all the beautiful beaches in the world.

Until then…

Happy reading and keep safe!

‘Om Shanti Shanti Shanti Om…’ The Team Nyoman Aditya Jaya is a photojournalist and freelances for various photo agencies (the likes of Reuters, AP, etc.) and other national news bureaus.

BALI & BEYOND Deputy General Manager Managing Editor

GOESTAMAR ARDIBRATA goestamar@baliandbeyond.co.id NYOMAN ARI GUNADI eric@baliandbeyond.co.id

Editorial Assistant

NI LUH DIAN PURNIAWATI dian@baliandbeyond.co.id

Editorial Advisors

A.A. GEDE RAI, JOHN M. DANIELS

Graphic Advisor Graphic Designer

WENIAR PRAMESTI PUTU PARTAJAYA putu@baliandbeyond.co.id MADE SUWARDANA suwardana@baliandbeyond.co.id

Advertising & MarComm. Manager

FANDY GUNAWAN A. fandy@baliandbeyond.co.id

F&A Supervisor

A.A. KETUT SUKERTI agung@baliandbeyond.co.id

GA & Personnel Adm

I GEDE ADARA adara@baliandbeyond.co.id

Distribution

NYOMAN TRI HARIAN SAPUTRA

Contributors JOSUA ALESSANDRO, DHARMA ARYAWAN, FADIL AZIZ (ALCIBBUM PHOTOGRAPHY), PARIAMA HUTASOIT, PATRICIA IVANA, MURDANI USMAN, NYOMAN ADI WIJAYA, YUNALDI YAHYA Jakarta Marketing Services/Subscription Tel: (021) 315 2683/84, 391 0969 Publisher PT. BUMI DIAN KUSUMA Commissioner SOETIKNO SOEDARJO Director MAULANA INDRAGUNA SUTOWO Division Head MRA Printed Media INDRIATI WIRJANTO Printing PT. SUBUR JARINGAN CETAK TERPADU, JAKARTA OFFICE Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai 120 C / Lt. 2, Kuta, Bali 80361 Tel: (62-361) 764 274, 752 684 Fax: (62-361) 762 096 E-mail:mag@baliandbeyond.co.id http://www.baliandbeyond.co.id Bali & Beyond Magazine is published monthly by PT. Bumi Dian Kusuma under the direction of MRA Media, Jakarta. Although every care is taken, neither the publishers nor any of their designees assume responsibility for the opinions and information expressed by editorial contributors. All material in this publication is copyrighted and cannot be reproduced without written permission of the publisher or author. All trademark and rights to Bali & Beyond are reserved by PT Bumi Dian Kusuma. Editorial materials may be submitted for consideration to the editorial office. Bali & Beyond is not responsible for the return of unsolicited material. Š 2006 Bali & Beyond ISSN 0216-4590

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A member of

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contents 12.09 THE SUN... THE SAND... THE SURF... THE CULTURE OF PARADISE AND OVER 18,000 SURROUNDING ISLANDS

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Discover the virginal beauty and rugged landscape of Nias Island, with one of the few remaining megalithic cultures in existence today.

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CRAFT&CULTURE PEST CONTROL À LA BALI Bali’s rich agrarian traditions and lore are practiced and passed down through generations. Here is the version of pest control that keeps the harvests going.

24 LIFESTYLE&LEISURE TWINKLE, TWINKLE LIKE A STAR Jemme Jewellery Boutique offers the most eclectic and extensive range of fine jewelry and collection of jewels to treat that special person over the festive season.

PHOTO COURTESY JEMME

BEYONDBALI SOUTH NIAS: THE REMARKABLE LAND OF WARRIORS

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PHOTO BY JOSUA ALESSANDRO

December 2009 Volume 11 No. 115

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contents 12.09 THE SUN... THE SAND... THE SURF... THE CULTURE OF PARADISE AND OVER 18,000 SURROUNDING ISLANDS

December 2009 Volume 11 No. 115

PROFILE&PORTRAIT PHOTO COURTESY BANYAN TREE RESORT

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BRIDGING DANCES

Tetsuro Koyano is one example of a foreigner who has picked up traditional Balinese dance and stuck to it, evolving into a Balinese himself.

COVER Silver Bells Photo by Sanja Gjenero (Stock.XCHNG)

30 FEASTS&FESTIVITIES In these dedicated pages we chart the happenings that will occur throughout the month, with various program information that we have gathered from various hotels and venues for the Christmas and New Year cheer that colors the agenda.

PHOTO BY ALCIBBUM PHOTOGRAPHY

12 NEW&NEWS This month’s select news updates from the island’s tourism industry and what’s new around the island.

40 ACTION&ATTRACTIONS DIVE NUSA DUA: JUST BEYOND THE REEF Plunge in with the Coral Reef Restoration Project in Nusa Dua, a site easily accessible and boasting a wide variety of reef fish.

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PHOTO BY YUNALDI YAHYA

CAPITALCORNER ESCAPE THE HEAT OF THE CAPITAL

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Jakarta’s highland holiday place, the Puncak mountain region, has become a mustvisit stop on the capital city’s tour itinerary.

58 BEYONDUPDATES News updates from the tourism industry and what’s new beyond Bali.

62 COMMUNITYCALENDAR Schedules, calendar highlights and various happenings of interest, from art exhibitions to special events.

64 SEE&SEEN Snapshots of events and happenings within the preceding month.

70 BALIMAPS Map of Bali showing specific tourism areas and places of interest, as well as a distance scale between the island’s main destinations.

73 CLASSIFIEDCOLUMNS Listings and product descriptions from various clientele.

74 INFOINDEX Useful directory of companies and island-based businesses.

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NEW&NEWS

FLAGSHIP STORE Atlas South Sea Pearl, one of the world’s leading producers of the rare and valuable South Sea pearl, opens their flagship store in the foyer of the Grand Hyatt Hotel, Nusa Dua early this month.

This new showroom will join the four existing showrooms located in Seminyak, Sanur, Ubud, and their farm site in North Bali. It will be the ultimate jewelry store in ambiance, service, and product offerings, ranging from the classic white pearl strand to contemporary ranges featuring gold, diamond, silver or natural leathers. www.atlassouthseapearl.com.au

UNVEILING IN UNGASAN Banyan Tree Ungasan is scheduled to welcome its first guests on December 15.

The new resort is perched 70 meters above sea level on the cliff-top of the island’s southernmost peninsula, offering stunning vistas of the Indian Ocean from its in-villa infinity pools, while featuring 73 individual pool villas. Be the first to enjoy the Ungasan Unveils package, a delightful sojourn that offers one complimentary night with a minimum of two consecutive nights’ stay. The package includes breakfast at the Bambu Restaurant and return airport limousine transfers for two people. For stays of four nights or more, guests will also enjoy a complimentary four-course set dinner at the Ju-Ma-Na restaurant. This introductory offer starts at US$620++ per night for a Pool Villa and is valid for reservations and stays from December 15 to March 31, 2010 (dates inclusive). Banyan Tree Ungasan’s best available rates start from US$535++ per night in a Pool Villa, inclusive of daily breakfast for two people. For stays of three nights and above, guests will enjoy one complimentary 90-minute Banyan Tree Spa massage session. Banyan Tree Ungasan, Jl. Melasti, Banjar Kelod, Ungasan, (0361) 300-7000; www.banyantree.com

SOOTHING MOVES Padma Resort Bali recently opened its new Lotus Beauty Salon.

After the completion of its renovation project, the Lotus Beauty Salon finally moved to a new location in the Facilities Complex just below the Taman Ayun Café and Lounge. With a new look and new view overlooking the fishpond, all the beauty treatments are done in a soothing environment. Their menu consists of extensive choices and favorites such as manicure, pedicure, hairstyling, waxing, and the signature sport foot massage. Lotus Beauty Salon at Padma Resort Bali is open for both in house and outside guests from 10 a.m. to 7 p.m.

Padma Resort Bali at Legian, Jalan Padma No. 1, Legian (0361) 752-111; www.padmaresortbali.com

SCRUMPTIOUS SETS BlueFin introduces its five new menu items in the third week of December, which are the Tom Jerry Roll, Unagi Crispy Roll, Sushi Set, Tempura Set, and Chicken Teriyaki Set. All are from the hands of the creative Sugiyono, the executive chef at BlueFin. The Tom Jerry Roll is comprised of salmon and spicy mayo, which gives it a spicy taste. The sushi set and tempura set rolls are made just for lunch. The restaurant already has 200 different Japanese fusion menu items, which will be renewed early next year.

BlueFin Japanese Fusion and Lounge, Kuta Sidewalk Complex no. 16, Jl. Kartika Plaza, Kuta (0361) 764-100 www.ramarestaurants.com/outlet/bluefin

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NEW&NEWS

BOARDWALK BREEZE ‘Breeze at The Samaya’ is a unique hotspot in Seminyak, combining a stunning location with delicious food. Guests can enjoy views of some of the best sunsets Bali offers, whilst experiencing some of the most beautiful backdrops and quality of service for any occasion. Breeze suits small group dinners, business lunches or a romantic dinner for two. A variety of seating is available; an interior overlooking the restaurant, front line beach side, birds’ eye views from boardwalk tables, and a separate cocktail and light dining area in the garden of Samaya.

The Samaya Seminyak Bali, Jalan Laksmana, Seminyak Beach, (0361) 731-149 www.thesamayabali.com

ON BOARD The Laguna announces the appointment of Andrew Fairbairn as its new Director of Sales & Marketing. Andrew commenced his career with Starwood Hotels & Resorts and has enjoyed an active role within the region’s ever evolving travel and hospitality industry. He holds a Bachelor of Business degree majoring in Marketing from the University of the Sunshine Coast in Australia, and an additional Diploma of Market Research from the Market Research Society of Australia.

The Laguna, (0361) 771-327 www.luxurycollection.com

SERENE SURROUNDS Bali Villa Properties were appointed to manage The Uma Villas located in the Umalas area. The soft opening was held on November 18 and attended by supporting partners, project developers, villa owners, tour operators, marketing agents and media. The Uma is situated in a serene area surrounded by rice fields and consists of 10 completely furnished units of 2 to 3 bedroom villas. Bali Villa Properties, Jl. Kunti 117x Seminyak, (0361) 885-3688; www.balivillaproperties.com

‘MIRACLE OIL’

DELICIOUS REBIRTH Patra Bali’s Yashi Japanese restaurant is reborn. The new touch of layout and interiors from the Sushi, Teppanyaki and Robatayaki counters, private Japanese Tatami and enlarged dining tables will give the guests more options for dining at both lunch and dinner while enjoying ocean views or the sunset to the tune of traditional Japanese pipe music. Sushi, Sashimi and tantalizing Teppanyaki will be the new signature of Tenku Japanese restaurant under supervision of a worldwinning Japanese Chef and his team. Open from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. The Patra Bali Resort & Villas, Jl. Ir. H. Juanda, South Kuta Beach, (0361) 751-161; www.patrabali.com 14

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Talaga Spa proudly presents its experience through Virgin Coconut Oil (VCO). Referring to it as the ‘miracle oil’, Talaga claims its VCO provides many benefits. Its fatty acids are equal to mother’s milk and improves the immune system, it suppports healthy metabolic and thyroid functions that promote weight loss, and fights the aging processes. VCO also softens dry skin, aids digestion, reduces cholesterol, and combats viruses and bacteria. Talaga Spa, Graha Ganesha Blok A-C, Jalan Dewi Sri Lc 16, Sunset Road, Kuta; (0361) 8733-831 www.talagaspabali.com

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INTERNATIONAL PLATINUM Skal Bali is the largest club in Southeast Asia and the world leader in membership growth, after receiving Skal International Platinum Award as the number one of five hundred Skal clubs in net membership growth and retention. On November 4 at the Skal World Congress in Budapest Hungary, World President Hulya Aslantas presented Skal Bali past President Keith Bell with the Skal International Platinum Award in Membership Development “for the highest net member growth for 2009 in the World” with 58 net new members.

Skal Bali Secretariat, (0361) 784-0212

STYLISH SURF STORE Beachculture Store has opened in Bali as one of the world’s leading surf wear groups’ first store ever in Asia. Its opening was marked with Beachculture Bali’s festive Hawaiian grand opening party in late October. The 240-square meter stylish store proudly houses brands Von Zipper, Billabong, Kustom, Nixon, Honolua and Sector 9. Beachculture Bali is located on the busy, tourist packed Kartika Plaza Street in Kuta and is currently the only store that boasts Von Zipper garments in Indonesia. “We are really happy to have this opportunity, because Beachculture already has huge credibility in the surfing industry,” said Made Bawayasa, Store Manager of Beachculture Bali. “This is definitely going to bring positive improvements to the Indonesian market.” Billabong, (0361) 769-157 www.billabongasia.com

PRIME COLLECTION Prime Plaza Hotels and Resorts consist of quality four star hotels catering to the needs of the international business and leisure travelers in prime locations throughout Indonesia. The Jogjakarta Plaza Hotel boasts distinctive Javanese architecture with luxurious appointed rooms and facilities and is located in the picturesque district of Jogjakarta, a short distance from the world famous Borobudur and Prambanan temple world heritage sites, and the golfing highlight on the slopes of the majestic Mt. Merapi. Kota Bukit Indah Plaza Hotel, at the end of the Jakarta - Cikampek toll road, is only an hour’s drive from Jakarta. Surabaya Plaza Hotel is strategically located in the Central Business District of Surabaya. Bali’s own Prime Plaza collections include Sanur Paradise Plaza Suites, located in the coastal village of Sanur, an ideal location from which to explore the island; and Sanur Paradise Plaza Hotel, which provides 329 guest rooms, with balconies and private courtyards, and ideal for families. Sanur Paradise Plaza Hotel’s newly renovated Sanur Harum Restaurant serves the finest of Chinese cuisine such as Peking Duck and Hot and Sour Seafood Soup “Sichuan Style”, as well as the all time favorite of “All you can eat Dim Sum Luncheon”.

The Bali Dynasty Resort in Tuban, South Kuta, focuses on the leisure traveler and is located within close proximity to Kuta’s shopping area, recreation parks, entertainment and nightlife. It recently announced the completion of its renovated 125 Deluxe and Family Rooms located in two wings of the hotel. 5 restaurants and 5 bars include the renowned Golden Lotus Chinese and Gracie Kelly’s Irish Pub. Bali Dynasty has also recently unveiled “The Den” – a club for teenagers 13-19 years of age, the first of its kind in Bali, with full indoor and outdoor activities to choose from. Prime Inn Hotel at Kota Bukit Indah in Jakarta is Prime Plaza’s brand of budget hotels, which focuses on the business traveler and is ideal for either short or long stays at very affordable prices with easy access to the Jakarta-Bandung toll road. www.primeplazahotels.com 16

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CRAFT&CULTURE

Pest Control À la Bali

Bhatara Gunung Batur preferred farming so he taught his

Shiva gathered his three sons, Bhatara Gunung

subjects land cultivation and agriculture in the central region of

Agung, Bhatara Gunung Batur, and Bhatara

Bali. Bhatara Gunung Andakasa, who controlled the coasts,

Gunung Andakasa (all which also happen to be

taught his subjects to catch fish and ‘harvest’ the seas. They

the name of the island’s three major mountain

were highly diligent at their work, which led to rapid development

peaks), they were granted land on the island

and satisfactory results.

and were ordered to manage and develop each of their areas.

Bhatara Gunung Agung’s livestock multiplied, leaving the

Thus the three deities or ‘Bhatara’ descended from the heavens

land in the east short of feed and fodder, so they traveled to the

and started their duties.

center where farming lands and plantations bloomed with fertility.

Bhatara Gunung Agung was fond of livestock so he developed cattle breeding in the eastern region of the island.

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They did not only graze over the lands but also ruined them in the process, sparking Bhatara Gunung Batur’s anger. He

TPG IMAGES

S

o this Balinese tale goes like this. When Lord

TPG IMAGES

Bali’s rich agrarian traditions and lore are practiced and passed down through generations. Here is the version of pest control that keeps the harvests going.

ordered his people to kill all the destructive

utterly desperate.

animals. Informed of the deaths of his

This event was observed by Shiva

livestock in the central region, Bhatara

himself from above, so he called upon the

Gunung Agung told off his brother.

three and explained to them that in life

But Bhatara Gunung Batur felt that

on December 16, and is performed in nearly all regions throughout Bali, which is fundamentally an agricultural island.

‘Nangluk’ means fence or barrier while

we cannot only care about our own self-

‘merana’ means pest or disturbance. In its

what he had done was not wrong, he was

interests. We live side-by-side with others,

free form, Nangluk Merana is defined as

just protecting his region from any kind of

thus at times our interests also do brush

a ‘ritual to ward off unwanted elements in

disturbance. Infuriated, Bhatara Gunung

against one another. We must learn to

aspects of human life relating to the rice

Agung left the cattle corpses to rot on site.

mutually care for the harmony amongst us.

fields, farmlands and plantations.’

Eventually the people of the central

After, Bhatara Gunung Agung ordered

Farmers believe that the purpose of

region became tired of the foul odor.

that stables, pens and barns be built to

pest control is not full extermination but

Bhatara Gunung Batur used his powers

contain the livestock so that they would not

controlling the population so that the

to summon the rain, which washed all the

trample over the tended fields.

harvests are kept from economic loss.

remains down the rivers and estuaries.

This in turn sparked Bhatara Gunung

Bhatara Gunung Andakasa was urged to teach his fish to consume the remains of

They are spared to the extent that they do not severely affect yields.

Andakasa’s anger. He pleaded with his

dead organisms. And thus it was generally

brother but again Bhatara Gunung Batur

believed that the sea is the universal place

sacred places among the Balinese;

just wouldn’t budge. The irritated Bhatara

of dissolution. All washes along rivers then

both are areas that support human

Gunung Andakasa then ordered his

down to the sea. Bhatara Gunung Batur

sustenance. This is one way to conserve

subjects to pick up the corpses.

was asked to take care of his plantations.

the environment. A method taught and

Bones, skin, and all remains were sent

One way to protect plants from pests is

Rice fields and water sources are

continued by generations of the farming

back to the central region, and eventually

through the ritual of Nangluk Merana, which

worms and various other plant destroying

is just one tale that underlies this ritual. It is

communities in Bali.

pests permeated the central region.

carried out every sixth new moon or tilem

pests by capturing or devising special

Bhatara Gunung Batur was annoyed and

kanem, that also happens to fall this month

techniques. However with the increase

In the beginning humans eradicated

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The rodents have souls, and it is their souls that are given the respect. It is hoped that no more pests will corrupt the fertile areas. This kind of crematory ritual is called Pretaka Merana.

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Global farming is now focused towards organic aspects, and one of its qualifications includes zero use of chemical pesticides. This is in accordance with the Balinese’ Nangluk Merana ritual that is still conducted today.

Thousands of rats and mice are gathered but not immediately disposed of. They are granted a ngaben cremation ceremony, as would a deceased human.

of farming areas and population growth,

boom and rapid increase in use all over the

towards organic aspects, and one of its

humans came up with new methods in

world including Indonesia.

qualifications includes zero use of chemical

overcoming pests such as using natural

Unfortunately, negative effects from

pesticides. This is in accordance with the

predators, parasitoids and the use of

the use of pesticides emerged gradually.

Balinese’ Nangluk Merana ritual that is still

organic chemicals.

Ground and water pollution and pesticide

conducted today.

These methods are mostly based

residue became known to be harmful

on biological and ecological knowledge

to humans and livestock, diminishing

with this ritual, especially among the

resulting in pest control with no negative

the pests’ natural enemies and building

agricultural demographic. This ritual is

effects on the environment and human

resistance among certain pests against the

carried out routinely every year around the

safety. Yet these methods are still

pesticides.

month of December. However, several

considered to be less effective and practical.

Balinese farmers themselves have and

Village societies are still very acquainted

villages do carry them out at differing

still apply pesticides. This was once in

times at different periods such as between

fact a government issuance that stemmed

December and February. In the aspect

with the emergence of insecticides

from the interest in practical pest control.

of climatology, around the month of

around the time of WWII, which

Yet this tendency is apparently changing.

December is when we see the start of the

included the introduction of DDT

Global society has started to consider the

rain, a condition when the spreading of

(dichlorodiphenyltrichloroethane). In the

dangers of pesticides to the environment

diseases is at its highest. This season is

beginning the use of these pesticides

and to human health.

then followed by the windy season, before

The practice of pest control changed

showed remarkable results, leading to its

Global farming is now focused

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The members of the subak farmer’s society ask a descendent of the royalty of Tabanan to go around the fields and sprinkle holy water as a symbol of cleansing.

month’ or sasih kedasa on the Balinese

down and kill the rodents. Thousands of

bamboo cane. Before his death he voiced

calendar, around March and April.

rats and mice were gathered and were not

his wish to be forever together with Bhatari

immediately disposed of but were granted

Sri. All of his body parts then turned into

holds high the principles of desa, kala, and

a ngaben cremation ceremony, as would a

various forms of pests.

patra, or place, time and situation. This

deceased human.

The concept of these rituals in Bali

exact concept is what results in several

The rodents have souls, and it is their

Rodents that were what to be the tail of Bawi Srenggi gained special attention

areas carrying out the ritual of Nangluk

souls that are given the respect. It is

from the agrarian communities of Bali.

Merana only when serious and close to

hoped that no more pests will corrupt the

They believe that rats and mice have

uncontrollable outbreaks of pests occur.

fertile areas. This kind of crematory ritual

enormous negative energy thus they take

In Tabanan for example, there once

is named Pretaka Merana. This form of

great caution so that this energy does not

occurred a severe rodent outbreak in the

ngaben is followed by a dispersal of the

accumulate and cause more disasters.

village of Riang Gede. The pests attacked

ashes to sea, which is regarded as the

Perhaps it does sound irrational,

40 hectares of rice fields and threatened

grand place of purification and release.

the harvest, so the members of the subak

There are many beliefs that surround the

how the farmers get rid of pests through conducting rituals. These specialties in Bali

farmer’s irrigational society decided

Nangluk Merana. One tale that has gained

and other religious societies do provide

to conduct the ritual. They asked a

much popularity among the people is the

different perspectives. We are somehow

descendent of the royalty of Tabanan to go

tale of I Bawi Srenggi. Bawi Srenggi was a

constantly reminded that every happening

around the fields and sprinkle holy water as

powerful man who wanted Bhatari Sri, the

and phenomenon is nature’s way, thus we

a symbol of cleansing.

goddess of fertility who is symbolized by

must give back in some way or the other. ■

rice, very much. He tried to disguise himself

Text by Ni Luh Dian Purniawati

as a boar but was soon killed by a yellow

Photos by Nyoman Adi Wijaya

At the beginning the members of the subak went down to the fields to hunt 22

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LIFESTYLE&LEISURE

TWINKLE, TWINKLE LIKE A STAR Dazzle with diamonds from Jemme this Christmas

J

emme is proudly celebrating

to frame and reflect the beauty of the

alongside hand-painted bronze pieces

its third Christmas at the

colored gems, further enhancing their

inspired by flowers and shells and also

flagship store on Jalan

natural beauty with their glorious glitter.

a wondrous collection of sterling silver

Petitenget with a dazzling

Of course diamonds alone are always

array of 18ct gold bespoke

a girl’s best friend, and even more so at

jewelry, including a stunning

Christmas time, so Jemme offers some

new collection of signed pieces.

hand-set with marcasite and brilliant semiprecious stones.

The marcasite designs offer glittering

spectacular examples – brilliant diamonds

jewelry with a timeless appeal at very

Come and view their most eclectic

set in abundance to create shimmering

affordable prices, inspired by original

and extensive range of fine jewelry ever,

necklaces, bracelets, earrings and rings.

Victorian, Edwardian, Art Deco and

and spoil your loved ones with something

With the use of claw-settings, micro-

contemporary designs. There is truly

truly special and original this Christmas.

settings and pave-settings to name but a

something for everyone this Christmas,

Jemme offers a collection of jewelry to suit

few, Jemme revels in exploring the endless

whatever the depth of pocket.

everyone’s price range... so go on, treat

potential for mounting and showcasing

that special person to something special

diamonds. Jemme also has a passion for

cornucopia of jewelry, visitors to Jemme

this festive season.

larger diamond stones, creating pieces

are invited to view the festive season’s

filled with the breathtaking beauty, mystery

collections at their leisure in a friendly

and playful fire that have mesmerized

and relaxed atmosphere. The exquisitely

jewelry-lovers through time.

fashioned environment has been described

THIS CHRISTMAS, WHAT WILL BE IN YOUR JEMME BOX? Jemme has a passion for colorful and

As with all of Jemme’s gemstones,

Presented with such a dazzling

by one of Jemme’s frequent customers

unusual precious and semi-precious

each one is carefully selected for its

as “a giant jewelry box filled with one’s

gemstones, from deep amethysts and

potential to tantalize, hypnotize and tell a

heart’s desires” – a true compliment and

vibrant citrines to luscious tourmalines and

unique piece of nature’s story.

testament to the unique appeal of Jemme.

aquamarines and delicious pink kunzites.

Displayed in harmony with Jemme’s

Offering a further enhancement to the

The closest attention is paid to the cut and

rare and precious gems are truly

Jemme ‘experience’ is Café Jemme, a

finish of the high-quality gems in order to

impressive and comprehensive collections

similarly relaxed and sumptuous café/

truly unlock their life, brilliance and fire. On

of silver jewelry. Modern and bold designs

restaurant connected to the jewelry store.

many occasions these gorgeous stones

created from sterling silver are both

Adjoining the main boutique space is the

are set alongside brilliant diamonds, as

affordable and ideal for customers of all

cozy seating area that just happens to

they provide the perfect partnership, able

ages. Such contemporary designs sit

border Café Jemme next door, which also

24

BALI&BEYOND

DECEMBER 2009

The exquisitely fashioned environment has been described by one of Jemme’s frequent customers as “a giant jewelry box filled with one’s heart’s desires”.

BALI&BEYOND

DECEMBER 2009

25

26

BALI&BEYOND

DECEMBER 2009

Jemme has a passion for colorful and unusual precious and semi-precious gemstones, from deep amethysts and vibrant citrines to luscious tourmalines and aquamarines and delicious pink kunzites. As with all of Jemme’s gemstones, each one is carefully selected for its potential to tantalize, hypnotize and tell a unique piece of nature’s story.

What will be in your Jemme box this Christmas? Perhaps a nature-inspired elcectic piece? Or white topaz earrings, and a mixed stone pendant on diamond chain...

leads to an idyllic terrace with a view.

Here, after getting lost gazing at each

in Negara, in Bali’s western highlands.

The café saw its grand opening

the menu and the sparkles and luminous petites makes way for an exceptional

of the heavenly items in the boutique, you

on an auspicious full moon in August,

can allow yourself to unwind and take in

where fine dinners become ever more

‘appetite for luxury’.

the fresh air and open view of the calming

impressive with the subtle candlelight

ranging from light drinks, coffees and teas

rice field, which somehow is reassuring

and luminous chandeliers that enhance

to hot chocolate and iced drinks. For a

in that you know you are still in Bali and

the glimmer of the precious stones and

refreshing cool down during a hot day,

haven’t been taken off to a distant world...

jewels - multi-color jeweled necklaces

drop by for a Jemme’s fresh mix served

Here you can sip your heart away with a

fit for a queen, diamond, sapphire, ruby

on crushed ice with soda water, including

refreshing selection of relaxing beverages,

and emerald cocktail rings, Jemme’s

Blueberry Swoon, various smoothies,

and recollect your most favorite piece of

‘2-Tone’ collections in 18ct white gold,

fresh and mixed fruit juices and shakes.

jewelry over light menu selections prepared

and Deco inspired pieces in 18 ct white

On the ‘deeper’ beverage side, try out the

with the freshest of organic ingredients,

gold – all behind their glass displays. The

Jemme Martinis, and the one that suits the

harvested from Jemme’s own organic farm

combination of a delectable selection on

characteristic lavender hues of Jemme’s

The café has a vast beverage list

BALI&BEYOND

DECEMBER 2009

27

Jewelry to enhance beauty; be it a belt knuckle ruby to adorn the wrist, or other dazzling combination of gemstones.

interior, the Lychee & Lavender Martini. All of its martini cocktails may be ordered with Grey Goose premium vodka. Also on the drink list are a selection of premium spirits, liqueurs, wines and champagnes.

Café Jemme is perfect for both light refreshment and as a special dining experience.

The delicate fusion of both eastern and western cuisine results in a comprehensive menu with appealing flavors to suit every palette. The Christmas menu is ideal for that festive romantic meal or for fun and lively festive parties. Combine a delicious meal with the fantastic Christmas shopping opportunities and celebrate this party season in style. Twinkle, twinkle like a star! ■ Photos courtesy Jemme ■ Jemme Jewellery Boutique Jl. Raya Petitenget 125, Seminyak (0361) 733-508 28

BALI&BEYOND

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FEASTS&FESTIVITIES Unless stated otherwise, all prices are subject to tax and service charge.

THE LAGUNA RESORT & SPA An Enchanting Christmas Blooms Experience at Café Lagoon from 7 p.m. welcomes Christmas in a wonderful setting full of fresh flowers from around Bali. Savor an exquisite traditional meal after being welcomed by Christmas Eve cocktails, and the sounds of a children’s choir (Rp.575,000/ person). A Night in Bali with Delightful Christmas Evening is at the Mayang Sari Restaurant from 7 p.m., featuring rich flavors from the island served in an exquisite set menu. Celebrate with a fine wine selection from around the world (Rp.750,000/person with wine pairing and Rp.450,000/person without). A grand New Year’s Eve celebration at the Balai Raya Ballroom starts with a cocktail reception at the Cascade Bar from 7:30 p.m. until the Ballroom doors open. A great dance band will entertain together with a DJ until 2 a.m.

A succulent buffet dinner of Bali’s freshest grilled seafood and international specialties from around the globe is open from 8:30 – 10:30 p.m. (US$295/adult and US$147/child under 12 years).

The Laguna Resort & Spa, Nusa Dua, Bali, (0361) 771-327 www.luxurycollection.com

COMO SHAMBALA ‘Masquerade’ at Como Shambala and Uma Ubud features a five-course Christmas Eve Dinner at Uma Ubud’s Kemiri Restaurant (US$65/person) and a Christmas Day Brunch at Como Shambala Estate’s Glow Restaurant (US$75/person). A six-course New Year’s Eve Gala Dinner at Uma Ubud’s Kemiri Restaurant (US$95/person) is followed by a live DJ at the poolside; a welcome cocktail, canapés and midnight toast at Rp.300,000 nett from 9 p.m. onwards, and will also feature a guest performance by Chika Asamoto. A New Year’s Day Rejuvenating Brunch at Como Shambala Estate’s Glow Restaurant (US$55/person) starts 11 a.m.

Como Shambhala Estate, Banjar Begawan, Desa Melinggih Kelod, Payangan, (0361) 978-888 www.cse.comoshambhala.bz

KAMANDALU RESORT & SPA An Xmas Celebration Dinner on December 25 from 7 p.m. onwards at the Petulu Restaurant features an intimate candle-lit dinner with degustation specialties. In a naturally decorated site, enjoy Leko Traditional Dance, a children’s choir, and a duet acoustic performance, inclusive of a glass of sparkling wine, welcome cocktail and canapés, plus a Christmas gift (US$75/adults, US$45/child 6-12 years). New Year celebrations include a Kecak Dance with cocktails and delectable tapas at the Cempaka Lounge from 7 – 7:45 p.m., and then head to Bale Ketemu for champagne teasers and a gala dinner. Latin sounds, R&B, pop and jazzy tunes by a quartet group all lead to a champagne toast to start the brand new year until 12:30 a.m., and then house grooves and a DJ disco beats until 2 a.m. (US$110/adult, US$50/child 6-12 years). to Kamandalu Resort & Spa, Jl. Tegallalang, Banjar Nagi, (0361) 975-825 www.kamandaluresort.com

NIKKO BALI RESORT & SPA The Brasserie features a Christmas tradition set menu (US$35/person) from December 24-25 at 6:30-10:30 p.m. with a Jazz duo for entertainment, and an Around the World Buffet on January 1, 2010 (US$80/person). The Shore features a Rhythm of The Shore set menu on New Year’s Eve with half a bottle of champagne, welcome cocktails, and entertainment from Jazz Saxophone and fire dancers (US$175/ person), while Benkay serves a Tepannyaki set menu with background music, Yakiniku and a 180ml carafe of sake and green tea (US$130/person). The Graha Sawangan Ballroom features a New Year’s Eve Retrovaganza Gala Dinner with shows and cocktails, modern dancers, table-to-table tricks, and a DJ Battle from 7 p.m. onwards (US$250/ person). Ballroom registration starts from 8 p.m. to 1 a.m. Nikko Bali Resort & Spa, Jalan Raya Nusa Dua Selatan, (0361) 773-377; www.nikkobali.com 30

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TAO BALI Festive season celebrations at the Tao Bali Restaurant include a Christmas Eve Set Menu (Rp.350,000/person) with live music under the stars. On December 31, a degustation Asian buffet is offered with welcome cocktails and wine and live music (Rp.950,000/person).

Tao Bali, Jl.Pratama no.96 Tunjung Benoa, Nusa Dua, (0361) 772 902 www.taobali.com

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FEASTS&FESTIVITIES

Unless stated otherwise, all prices are subject to tax and service charge.

LE MÉRIDIEN NIRWANA GOLF & SPA RESORT

MAYA UBUD RESORT & SPA Christmas Eve festivities include Christmas Carols in the lobby performed by the Seeds of Hope Children’s Orphanage. Enjoy mulled wine and stollen with the resort’s compliments from 6 p.m. The Maya Sari Mas Restaurant offers an array of festive season flavors with a ‘Christmas Festive Buffet’ from 7:00 p.m. (US$60/person; US$25/ children 6-12 years). A Christmas Dinner at the Maya Sari Mas Restaurant offers a delightful a la carte dinner menu and a selection of Christmas specials, while the Maya Sari Lembah features an ‘Indochina Invitation’ buffet with which to experience the flavors of SE Asia.

On New Year’s Eve, a ‘Maya Sari Mas-querade Dinner’ starts at 7 p.m. with a traditional Balinese performance, cocktails and canapés, and an exquisite five-course gourmet gala feast (US$120/person).

Maya Ubud Resort & Spa, Jalan Gunung Sari Peliatan, Ubud, (0361) 977-888 www.mayaubud.com

PADMA RESORT BALI A Christmas set menu is prepared to entice with the warmth of Christmas at the Bella Rosa Restaurant from 6 p.m. to 9:30 p.m., with a Christmas Eve quartet performance (US$62/ person). A Christmas Buffet Dinner is served with tasty appetizers, a delicious main course and mouthwatering dessert at Taman Ayun Cafe & Lounge from 6 p.m. to 9:30 p.m., with a Christmas performance by the Smart Band and Christmas carols (US$40/person). A spectacular New Year’s gala dinner with an unforgettably sumptuous buffet menu of food from around the world combine with a colorful performance in a night to remember at Wantilan Ballroom from 8 p.m. onwards (US$158/ person). Padma Resort, Jl. Padma No. 1, Legian, (0361) 752-111 www.padmaresortbali.com 32

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A white and red Christmas Eve traditional buffet dinner at the Cendana Restaurant from 7 – 10 p.m. offers a selection of traditional Christmas fare, an acoustic quartet, children’s choir and a visit by Santa Claus delivering candies, chocolates and cookies. A Blue and White Christmas Eve set dinner at the Pool Grill restaurant serves a sixcourse menu with live string violin and acoustic guitar performances (Rp.400,000/person).

A Christmas Day Buffet Dinner at the Cendana Restaurant features a special buffet dinner from Chef Stephen plus enchanting performance from a pianist and singer (Rp.350.000/person). The New Year’s Eve “Pirates of Nirwana” marks the countdown to 2010 in the ballroom, with a special New Year’s Eve buffet dinner at the Pool Grill Restaurant, Cendana Restaurant and Le Patio from 7 – 9:30 p.m. Children under 12 enjoy a 50% discount.

Le Méridien Nirwana Golf & Spa Resort - Bali (0361) 815-900; www.lemeridien.com/bali

HOTEL SANUR BEACH BALI Celebrate with a special Christmas Eve Gala Dinner at the Tirta Restaurant. Start the evening with cocktails at 7:30 p.m. before moving on to the Christmas Buffet Dinner at 8 p.m. The highlight of the dinner is Christmas Turkey with all the traditional trimmings (Rp.395,000 net/person). The New Year’s Eve’s theme “Under the Rainbow” at Sanur Beach promises non-stop fun and excitement with a sumptuous buffet dinner and fantastic cocktail party starting at 7:30 p.m. Be entertained by a live band, modern dances, party packs and so on throughout the night (Rp.750,000 net/person).

Sanur Beach Hotel, Jl. Danau Tamblingan, Sanur, (0361) 288-011 www.sanurbeachotelbali.com

THE WESTIN RESORT Tales of Indonesia, a Westin New Year’s Eve Gala Dinner, features a pre-dinner at the Nusantara Ballroom and dinner at the Nusa Indah Hall from 7 p.m. until late (US$250/adult, US$125/child). A Westin Tropical Dinner Party is set for January 6, 2010, as the Nusantara wraps up the festive season with a sumptuous buffet including a selection of Russian dishes. Dance the night away to pulsating music from a live band and celebrate the beginning of another year (US$110/adult, US$ 55/child).

The Westin Resort, Nusa Dua, (0361) 771-906 www.westin.com/bali

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FEASTS&FESTIVITIES

Unless stated otherwise, all prices are subject to tax and service charge.

BALI HYATT

INTERCONTINENTAL BALI RESORT Christmas Eve at the Saraswati Lounge features a complimentary Egg Nog Cocktail Reception where children from a local orphanage perform a medley of carols. The Spirit of Bali at the Sunset Bar from 6:30 p.m. - 10.00 p.m. is a journey that explores the cultural and culinary delights of Bali with an extensive buffet dinner and the performance of traditional dance

A Christmas Eve Dinner at the Wantilan Café from 6:30 p.m. to 10.30 p.m. invites families and friends to enjoy some Christmas classics from carolers while enjoying a traditional Christmas buffet with favorite Christmas dishes (US$49/adult, US$25/child 6-12 years old). Christmas Lunch at Cupak Bistro has families celebrating with a four course set Christmas lunch including Game Paté with toasted brioche and Christmas pudding with brandy sauce (US$39/adult, US$19/children). A Balinese Village New Year at the Wantilan Café celebrates the New Year with a special five course set Balinese dinner including entertainment. Dinner includes a pre-dinner cocktail and a glass of sparkling wine at midnight (US$85/adult, US$40/ child 6-12 years old). Bali Hyatt, Sanur, (0361) 281-234; www.hyattintl.com

and music (Rp.375,000/person, 50% off for children 7 to 14 years old and complimentary for children under 7 years old). New Year’s Eve will be a night to remember at the Puri Kencana Ballroom. Guests will be invited to indulge with welcome cocktails, a gourmet buffet, big band, local performances and chill out tunes that will take the party into the early hours (Rp.2,750,000/ person). Young travelers under the age of 12 will also have their own fun-filled celebration right next door at the Pandawa Room hosted by the Planet Trekkers team.

Intercontinental Bali Resort, Jalan Uluwatu 45, Jimbaran, (0361) 701-888 www.intercontinental.com

ALILA

THE CONRAD BALI RESORT & SPA

Enjoy five courses of ‘modern Asian cuisine’ at the ‘Seasalt’ or at a ‘Table by the Ocean’, celebrating the best of East Bali’s locally grown produce for Christmas Eve (US$45/person or US$80/person with wine pairing). ‘A Royal Merry Christmas’ features a traditional royal ‘Megibung’ feast dinner with all the trimmings and entertainment fit for royalty (US$75/person).

Thursday, December 31 features ‘The Last Supper under the Full Moon’ with a casual party around the pool and by the ocean with a wood-fired BBQ dinner, fire dancing and fireworks at midnight (US$65/person). Alila Hotels, Bali (0361) 975-963 ubud@alilahotels.com manggis@alilahotels.com

The Christmas Eve Dinner at Suku from 6:30 p.m. to 10 p.m. offers a splendid five-course gourmet dinner with the angelic voices of a Balinese Children’s Choir (Rp.525,000/person and 50% off for children under 12). Christmas Dinner at RIN features a Christmas feast and culinary delights with a five-course gourmet dinner from 7 p.m. – 11 p.m. (Rp.750,000/person). A romantic festive dinner at Eight Degrees South from December 22 to January 6, from 7:30 p.m. to 11:30 p.m., celebrates the festive season with loved ones in an intimate candlelight dinner, offering a five-course gourmet dinner with a glass of sparkling wine and entertainment by a Batak Duo (Rp.1,050,000/person). A New Year’s Eve Dinner on the Beachfront of Eight Degrees South serves seafood and lobster with the option of dining in your own personal bale in an intimate candlelight dinner accompanied by the sounds of crashing waves. Conrad Bali Resort & Spa, Nusa Dua, (0361) 778-788 bali.conradmeetings.com

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THE OBEROI, BALI A Christmas Eve gala dinner is featured at the Kura Kura Restaurant from 7 – 10:30 p.m. with a children’s choir singing favorite Christmas carols (US$150 net/ person). The New Years Eve gala dinner at the Kura Kura Restaurant features entertainment by a Jazz band from 8 p.m. to 1 a.m. (US$250 net/person).

Oberoi Hotels & Resorts Indonesia, Jalan Kayu Aya, Seminyak, (0361) 730-361 www.oberoihotels.com

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PROFILE&PORTRAIT

BRIDGING DANCES Koyano Tetsuro is one example of a foreigner who has picked up traditional Balinese dance and stuck to it, ‘evolving into a Balinese’ himself.

M

ore and more

achievement of awards from the Embassy

My mother was a pioneer in restoring

people are attracted

of the Republic of Indonesia in Tokyo.

paintings; she repaired damaged paintings

to learn about

Bali & Beyond got to interview him

in Japan. And my father was crazy for

things Indonesian,

for this year end edition. Consider it a

opera. So it can be said that I had many

especially Balinese

very important turning point in answering

opportunities to brush close with arts since

arts. Japan is a

recent questions as to whether traditional

an early age.

nation that has significantly large Balinese

Balinese arts would survive amidst strongly

and Javanese gamelan ensembles. There

impending ‘globalization’. If the Japanese

have been many Japanese who have

were able to fall in love with Bali, how

How was your initial phase in learning dance?

picked up gamelan and Balinese dance,

could the Balinese themselves possibly

My professor loved Bali in that he had

and not just a few have been able to

overlook their own culture?

a house here. I first visited the island

perform the Balinese dances gracefully

Koyano left the island after attending

following an invitation from him. I tried to

and play the gamelan beautifully. One of

and performing at temple ceremonies

start with gamelan because music was

them is Koyano Tetsuro.

during the preceding months, and has only

my background at the time, but there

planned to touchdown on the island again

were several Balinese friends who said,

before that he would become a fluent

this December 23, so as we were to go to

“Your facial features and your figure is

performer of Balinese dance. Koyano was

press, we interviewed Koyano via e-mail.

perfect for Balinese dance. You must take

born in Japan and recently celebrated his

Amidst his busy performance preparatory

up dance!” I witnessed and encountered

birthday on November 18. Artistic blood

routines, he humbly answers in this

Balinese dance for the first time in Bali,

ran through his veins early, which perhaps

interview by Ni Luh Dian Purniawati.

but me dancing was because of all that

Perhaps Koyano never imagined

he got from his parents. While studying

surrounding impetus.

continued on to college and achieved

How did you become attracted to the performing arts?

a Master of Fine Art (MFA) degree in

Actually that’s hard to answer. Before I

Was it by autodidact or from learning with a maestro?

Ethnomusicology and Soundscape from

studied Balinese dance, I took up music at

I started to learn closely under the guidance

Japan’s Tokai University. Unexpectedly,

my university in Japan. During Junior High

of maestro Anak Agung Gede Oka Dalem

his professor introduced him to Bali. The

and High School I joined a rock band. So I

from the village of Peliatan. He is a famous

nature, culture, traditions, music, and

could say that I had lived with music since

dancer and so was his father, Anak Agung

dances had him love struck. Now he

early and thus would easily get attracted

Gede Ngurah Mandera, is known as a

has made Bali his second home, where

to another form of art. But the main reason

great artist who for the first time in history

every year he allots his time for a visit.

Balinese dance really hit me was that I felt I

took a Balinese dance troupe abroad in

His activities in developing dance and

was destined for it.

1931 to perform in Paris, France. After

at high school he joined a rock band. He

that I started to learn from maestro I Made

gamelan music is considered a positive effort in the conservation of the traditional arts in Indonesia. This has led to his 36

BALI&BEYOND

DECEMBER 2009

Were you raised in a family of artists?

Djimat from the village of Batuan and still do until now, specializing in Tari Topeng

BALI&BEYOND

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37

Koyano, playing the traditional flute with the Cudamani art group from Pengosekan, and in full costume dancing during a ceremony at the Batuan temple. (mask dance) and Gambuh. Besides them,

and perhaps, Japanese?

I had learned from other Balinese maestros

Currently I am really deep in the Topeng

as well, the likes of Ida Bagus Oka Wirjana

and Gambuh. And indeed I love classical

or fondly known by the nickname ‘Gus

dance and music. Honestly I have never

Aji Belansinga.’ He taught me the Tari

taken up other dance forms not even

Kebyar Duduk dance. Dewa Putu Berata,

Japanese but I frequently participate in

the director of the ‘Cudamani’ dance

contemporary performances, bringing

workshop from the village of Pengosekan

in some techniques of Balinese dance.

taught me gamelan. The learning processes

For example, I frequently participate in

Indonesian arts, especially Balinese?

continued with various collaborations in

the world-famous “Pappa Tarahumara”,

Many Japanese are fond of traditional

Bali arts projects in Bali and Japan. I was

a Japanese contemporary theater

Indonesian arts be it Balinese or other

also guided by Made Keranca, a maestro

group. The performances are indeed

parts like central Java. Because I think

of the gong kebyar music from the village of

contemporary but I adjust the techniques

that if we dig deeper into the culture and

Jagaraga, Buleleng. And one teacher dear

I have learned from Balinese dance in

traditions of Japan and Indonesia, we

to me and whom I frequently visit is I Made

creating something new.

could discover many similarities. That’s

Sija. Sija is a puppeteer from the village of

why the Japanese easily accept Indonesian

from him but up until now the dream has

How would you describe Balinese dance?

yet to become reality. These times we often

I feel that Balinese dance is not only about

converse and discuss Balinese culture and

body movements. It is very spiritual with

I admit that my views on Bali have been

strong, deep feelings. As a performer

Have many of them taken Balinese dance or gamelan?

heavily influenced by him. I have been

of Balinese dance I always try to sense

Many. And many of them also come to

able to learn a lot about the culture and

another dimension. I frequently join

the island specifically to learn the forms.

philosophies of Bali. Hopefully it will lead

ngayah during odalan temple ceremonies,

Besides, now there are many artists from

to my deeper understanding before my

performing the Topeng and Gambuh,

Japan who are attracted to Balinese dance

eventual taking up of puppetry as well.

which I enjoy very much.

and music, so I myself or my gamelan

What dances have you mastered, besides Balinese

How enthusiastic are the Japanese towards traditional

Bona. I longed to learn shadow puppetry

culture and traditions. And when they like it, they get stuck to it.

group in Japan often are invited to

38

BALI&BEYOND

DECEMBER 2009

collaborate in producing new creations. ■ Photos from personal archives

BALI&BEYOND

DECEMBER 2009

39

PHOTO BY YUNALDI YAHYA

ACTION&ATTRACTION

Nusa Dua reefs have slightly better coral coverage than those of Sanur, and can be found at from 3 to 12 meters in depth. Here a clownfish snuggles amidst a waving anemone.

40

BALI&BEYOND

DECEMBER 2009

DIVE NUSA DUA: JUST BEYOND THE REEF Plunge in with the newly initiated Coral Reef Restoration Project in Nusa Dua, a site easily accessible and suprisingly teeming with marine life and a wide variety of reef fish.

T

he dive sites just beyond

completed a dive course. If you don’t dive

out a few hundred meters from the beach

the reefs of Nusa Dua are

no need to worry either, as you can just

to the dive location, just beyond the line

not the greatest compared

enjoy snorkelling around the reef, and

where the waves break in around 15

to other of the island’s

if you can’t swim a glass-bottom boat

minutes.

famous dive sites such as

can take you to see the beauty of Nusa

Menjangan, Nusa Penida,

Dua’s underwater assets without you even

low degree of visibility, approximately

getting wet.

6-8 meters, but can reach 5 meters on

Tulamben, Seraya, but they are easily accessible and boast quite a good variety

There are lots of dive operators and

The current is moderate with a rather

occasion. The majority of fish are at a

of reef fish to admire. These dives serve

water sport companies in the Nusa

depth of 8-10 meters. During the rainy

perfectly as a quick refresher if you haven’t

Dua area that can take you on diving or

season (November through March),

dived for quite awhile, or if you have just

snorkelling trips. A small boat takes you

visibility in the Nusa Dua waters is reduced significantly, but the water temperature is generally quite comfortable at from 24° to 26°C (75°-79°F). During the period between July and August, the temperature in Nusa Dua’s coastal waters drops to 21°C (70°F), and sometimes to a low of 19°C (66°F).

But as a matter of fact, the Nusa Dua reefs have slightly better coral coverage than those of Sanur, and can be found at from 3 to 12 meters in depth. The reef type is flat and sloped. Coral coverage here

PHOTO BY DHARMA ARYAWAN

is not so fantastic, as it is dominated by hard coral from the genus Seriatopora sp., Hydnophora sp. and Acropora sp., and some areas are covered with soft coral.

The diversity of marine life is surprisingly good here though, with the families of Acanthuridae (surgeonfish), Chaetodontidae (butterflyfish), BALI&BEYOND

DECEMBER 2009

41

Dives in the waters of Nusa Dua will probably not offer such a show very often, but it’s still worth making the effort for the variety of fish here, and to elevate our concerns about saving the reefs. (boxfish and puffers), and Gobiidae

THE EFFORT: CORAL REEF RESTORATION PROJECT

(gobies, dartfishes, sand-divers) commonly

Osha Gray Davidson, in his book The

inhabiting and thriving within this area.

Enchanted Braid: Coming to Terms with

Pomacentridae (damselfish), Diodontidae

Some species of Nudibranchia, Moray

Nature on the Coral Reef (1998), wrote: “In

eels, Anemone fish, Angel fish, Moorish

some areas human activity has destroyed

idols, Coconut octopus, Lionfish, Batfish,

entire reefs, converting them to algal-

Crocodile Flatheads, Goatfish, Sweet lips,

covered rubble. Who knows what species,

Reddish/Big eyes, Cuttlefish, Stingrays,

known and unknown alike have already

Trumpet fish, Clown Triggerfish, and even

been wiped out? Who can say which

lobsters are also found here. You may also

ones will be winking out in the near future,

be able to find schooling Dusky sweeper

their intricate genetic codes, formed over

and also Fusilier fish form aggregations in

millennia, suddenly gone...”

and under ledges.

Like coral reefs all around the world,

Dives spots in the waters of Nusa Dua

Nusa Dua’s reefs are under enormous

will probably not offer such a show very

pressure. Climate change, destructive

often, but it’s still worth making the effort

fishing methods using bomb and cyanide

for the variety of fish here, especially to

potassium and other human activities

elevate our concerns about saving the

have contributed to the destruction of this

coral reefs through restoration projects that

environment. It leads to the loss of the

have been underway there.

natural ecosystem, the urge for coastal

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BALI&BEYOND

DECEMBER 2009

protection, less income, lack of food supply, and less scientific discoveries.

The Bali Tourism Development Corporation (BTDC), the management company of the Nusa Dua resorts, has initiated a project to restore the degraded coral reef ecosystems in Nusa Dua, with the full support of the hotels, the local community, dive operators, local fishermen, the government, NGO’s, tourists, and various other stakeholders.

The restoration program is applying the use of artificial reefs aptly named ‘Submarine Reefs’, specially designed according to the existing environment.

Submarine Reefs are artificial reefs made to restore ailing coral reefs and to create new habitats as well as new fishing, diving and snorkelling sites, beach protection, and promoting many other purposes.

“The restoration is very important and just a first step for the BTDC in an effort to conserve the Nusa Dua coral reefs. We are carrying out this restoration effort with the hope that it can be supported continuously

PHOTO BY YUNALDI YAHYA

by the Nusa Dua hoteliers, tourists, and

BALI&BEYOND

DECEMBER 2009

43

also local people, contributing towards coral restoration,” said the President Director of BTDC, I Made Mandra.

Meanwhile Nyoman Sayun, chief of KUD Mertha Segara Samuh, a local fishermen’s community in Nusa Dua, said

PHOTO BY MURDANI USMAN

Everyone can become an important partner in helping to preserve and restore the Nusa Dua coral reefs, one way to participate is through an ‘Adopt a Coral’ program.

be on the frontline to protect this area.

“We also hope the government and other stakeholders will join in the effort to protect these coral reefs, especially in creating zonings so that the area can be saved from destructive fishing acts such as potassium cyanide and bombing,” he said.

The unique Submarine Reef have been deployed in the waters of Nusa Dua’s coast with adopters’ names and adopted baby corals transplanted to these structures.

PHOTO BY DHARMA ARYAWAN

that they fully support this project and will

18 Submarine Reef structures have been deployed in the waters of Nusa Dua’s coast with various baby corals transplanted

in your own name or you can give it as

the personal and institutional adopters of

to these structures and with the names of

an important and meaningful ‘gift’ to your

the Submarine Reefs, and other personal

its ‘adopters’ tagged on to them.

loved one. The adopter will get a certificate

and group adopters have also continuously

and a digital picture of the measurement of

contributed to supporting this project.

Just a few weeks after the artificial reef structures were deployed; many fish had

their coral by email. And for US $500, you

already made use of these Submarine

can adopt a whole Submarine Reef, an

small part of the grand effort to save the

Reefs as their new homes, as well as an

artificial reef with 20 coral transplantations

ailing coral reefs island-wide. There are

entirely new habitat and serving as an

in your own name or you can give it as a

even bigger areas out there in this vast

attractive sight during diving sessions.

gift too, for your loved one. The adopter

archipelago with degrading coral reefs.

will also get a certificate and an updated

We can work together and show our

digital picture of the measurements of their

willingness to support this effort for better

Submarine Reefs by email.

coral reefs for our future generations.

AWARENESS AND FUNDING: ‘ADOPT A CORAL’ Everyone can become an important

There were 71 coral fragments (baby

Nevertheless, this restoration is only a

For further information on how you

partner in helping to preserve and restore

corals) and 5 Submarine Reefs recently

can be a baby coral or Submarine Reef

the Nusa Dua coral reefs by participating in

adopted since the inaugural launch during

adopter as well as part of the effort,

the ‘Adopt a Coral’ program. Adopt a Coral

the week long Nusa Dua Fiesta that began

contact Nusa Dua Coral Restoration

has been designed in an effort to raise

on October 17. Two former Indonesian

Project at 081-735-0344. ■

public awareness as well as to raise funds

Tourism Ministers (Joop Ave and Gde

Text and photos by Pariama Hutasoit

to support this project.

Ardika), the Westin Resort Nusa Dua and

(Project Leader, Nusa Dua Coral

DIAGEO Singapore Pte Ltd. were some of

Restoration Project)

For only US $25, you can adopt a coral 44

BALI&BEYOND

DECEMBER 2009

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45

BEYONDBALI

SOUTH NIAS

THE REMARKABLE LAND OF WARRIORS

Standing on top of an ancient stairway entirely made of stones, the gateway of one of South Nias’ traditional villages, watching as the sun slowly rises on the horizon above the bay, you will have the feeling that you were transported into another era by a time machine.

46

BALI&BEYOND

DECEMBER 2009

N

ias Island is located in a

in front of their house, oblivious to the

chain of islands parallel

fact that a hundred years ago the stone

to the coast that is

was actually the king’s throne and below

separated from Sumatra

the very ground that they are running on,

by the Mentawai Strait.

enemy’s heads were buried.

The largest island of the

Megalithic sites in South Nias

lot, Nias is a famous international surfing

are unintentionally abandoned, with

destination and its Sorake and Lagundri

modernization seeping in subconsciously.

Beach in South Nias, which has hosted

TV antennae sprout on top of traditional

many international surfing tournaments in

wooden houses that date back to 900

the past, were part of the legendary hippie

years ago, and women hanging out their

trail in the 60s, travelled mainly by surfers

laundry on ancient stone carvings are

en route to Bali.

common sights. Everything was just there

But surfing is only one of the many facets of Nias. Its lack of convenient access means untouched virginal beauty

naturally, without anyone giving much thought to it.

In South Nias traditional villages were

and rugged landscape. Its geographic

designed as fortresses. In the ancient days,

isolation means a truly unique cultural

villages were at war with one another,

practice, one of the few remaining

therefore it was absolutely necessary

megalithic cultures in existence today.

for the village to be impenetrable. The

In the traditional villages of South Nias,

traditional wooden houses were built

children run around with bare feet, playing

connected to one another, with entrances

hide and seek around a giant stone carving

from the side only, so that nobody could BALI&BEYOND

DECEMBER 2009

47

In South Nias traditional villages were designed as fortresses. In the ancient days, villages were at war with one another, therefore it was absolutely necessary for the village to be impenetrable.

Nias is a famous international surfing destination and its Sorake and Lagundri Beach in South Nias, has hosted many international surfing tournaments in the past.

enter a house without the knowledge of its next door neighbor. The Omo Sebua, the king’s palace, was located in the centre of the village, to be securely guarded by the whole village.

Guests of the village were only allowed to walk in the pathway in the middle of the village called the girinafalo. They were not allowed to walk near the houses for fear of enemy surveillance.

Nias’ hostile past gave birth to a war culture that is evident in its art performances. The internationally famous Nias stone jumping is one of the most well known examples of the manifestation of the rugged warring culture, where every boy was raised to be a headhunting warrior. The famous stone jumping for example, symbolizes a sign of maturity.

In the ancient days, a boy had to jump across a stone heap as high as two meters before he could be called a man and be 48

BALI&BEYOND

DECEMBER 2009

permitted to marry. If he failed he would

decorated with a carving in the shape of

trance. The dance is a symbolic gesture of

still be perceived as an immature child.

a dragon’s head. Simply producing the

a ship sailing in the sea. The coffin is the

The agility of the men and their hostile

coffin is no easy feat. It is believed that the

ship and the dance represents the sailing.

war spirits are clearly evident in the Faluaya

dragon’s head invites dark spirits, therefore

It is their way to see the deceased off to

Dance, a war dance where warriors armed

a pig or a boar must be slaughtered first

his final destination.

with mighty spears ask the gods to protect

as an offering and a shaman must pray to

them as they marched into the battlefield.

keep dark spirits away.

A truly unnerving sight.

In the ancient days, the coffin would not be buried but be hung near the entrance of

The coffin is then put in the assembly

the village. The practice was stopped by a

area in front of the Omo Sebua, and the

cholera outbreak during the Dutch colonial

the women to wait for the men to come

family members of the deceased will sit

era, and nowadays the coffins are buried.

home from battle carrying the heads of

circling the coffin. A host will then open the

their enemies. The women would then

ceremony by greeting the honorary guests

clean the heads before they displayed

and engaged in the Orahu, a welcoming

the skulls in their homes as prizes. The

speech, which is truly spectacular as it

more skulls a man could collect, the more

involves a lot of yelling and chanting.

It was common practice in the past for

respected he would be.

Another phenomenal cultural attraction

Ancient tribes were known to be highly spiritual and the people of Nias are no

The family of the deceased who are circling the coffin cry out loud to express

is the funeral of a nobleman, which is

their deep sadness. As soon as the family

usually an amazingly elaborate and costly

bid their final farewell, a group of warriors

event. The cadaver is put inside a wooden

comes to take the coffin. They carry the

coffin, which is beautifully carved and

coffin on their shoulders, dancing in a

Nias’ hostile past gave birth to a war culture that is evident in its art performances. The agility of the men and their hostile war spirits are clearly evident in the Faluaya Dance, a war dance asking the gods for protection as troops marched into the battlefield.

BALI&BEYOND

DECEMBER 2009

49

NIAS

INDONESIA exception, as evident in their arts and

eradicating the hostile spirit. However, the

crafts. Each carving was meticulously

men of Nias remain as tough and resilient

handcrafted, with the precision and details

as always. Five-year-old boys carrying

of inhuman standards. Their crafts were

spears to hunt fish in the middle of the

their offerings to the gods; therefore

day is a common sight. As common as

everything had to be flawless.

seeing these same boys carrying surf

The most well known sacred ritual is

boards much bigger than themselves

Famadaya Harimau, a sin purification ritual.

and conquering the unforgiving waves of

In this solemn practice, warriors made a

Sorake, or diving into the depths of the

tiger statue, because tigers are believed

aggressive Indian Ocean.

to be the carrier of sins and misdoings.

But ruggedness is only one side of the

The tiger statue would then be carried and

coin. On the other side, South Nias boasts

disposed in the Jumali waterfall.

natural beauty very virginal and untouched.

Most of the ancient traditions

Lush, green forests. Magnificent flora

are no longer in practice today but

and fauna. Magical waterfalls and rivers.

performed mainly as part of a tourist

And beautiful, secluded beaches like the

attraction. Modernization has brought

perfect Moale.

with it practicality and common sense,

Almost inaccessible, Moale Beach

is located in the perfect coordinates of

LOTU

the hemisphere, so it is blessed with the most impeccable sunset. The way the sky

LAHEWA

o

GUNUNGSITOLI

changes colors and the roundness of the

GUNUNGSITOLI HARBOR

ALASA

sun as it sets into the horizon is magically

NIAS

j

The island was badly damaged by the

BINAKA AIRPORT

December 2004 tsunami, leaving a lot of

MORO’O ONOLIMBU

picturesque.

beaches scarred and people homeless. But IDANOGAWO

amidst the chaos, the beauty remained.

The fighting spirit in the people remains. It

ASU ISLAND

BAWOLATO

HINAKO ISLAND GOMO

BAWA ISLAND

is what the island is made of. It is what the island is rebuilt with. It is what makes this small and isolated island truly remarkable. â– Text by Patricia Ivana Photos by Josua Alessandro www.escapadepictures.com

50

BALI&BEYOND

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TELUK DALAM

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51

CAPITALCORNER

Jakarta has its highland holiday place: Puncak. This mountain region is even known nationwide and has become a sort of tourism object on its own, becoming a must-visit stop on the capital city tour itinerary.

52

BALI&BEYOND

DECEMBER 2009

Escape the heat of the CAPITAL

I

ndonesia: a hot and humid region

become a sort of tourism object on its

History records that Bandung at that time

in the tropics. No wonder its people

own, becoming a must-visit stop on the

had many monikers: “the first modern

prefer spending their holidays in the

capital city tour itinerary.

city in the Indies,” “the most European of

highlands and up in the mountains.

Puncak in the local lexicon means

Especially among the metropolitans

“a high or the top-most place”. But for

who are for all time busy in their hectic

Jakartans, Puncak also defines the area

Java’s cities” and the most famous, “Paris van Java”.

This advancement of “the town of

routines and stuck in traffic; all easily

on the rim of the Gunung Gede-Pangrango

Priangan” brought a big impact to the area

rendering the big city dwellers weary

range located approximately 50 km to

of Puncak (this name apparently started

from time to time, yearning for refreshing

the south of Jakarta. Mention “Puncak”

to emerge around the second half of the

options.

to Jakartans, and what will easily come

20th century), which is located between

to their minds is the cool and misty tea

two large cities, Batavia and Bandung.

plantations, roast corn, and of course,

Surprisingly, the Dutch chose this area

vast green panoramas. All the things that

to be cut through by the main road that

You do not need to go far to see this

Jakarta on its own lacks, thus the weekend

connected both cities. The route also

phenomenon. There’s Candi Kuning and

exodus.

crosses Cianjur, an equally important rice

Cool and Misty Tea Plantations Bedugul Lake right here on our island of

Before we go further, bear in mind that

producing area. It proved to be a very strategic route.

Bali. Each week this place becomes a

Puncak refers to an area, not a specific

‘refuge’ from Denpasar and its citizens.

point. When lined up in order from Jakarta

How about the nation’s capital city – with

(ascending) there are: Gadog, Cipayung,

back in the 1800s there was no intention

an approximate population of 12 million?

Cisarua, Tugu, the Gunung Mas tea

whatsoever for it to become a touristic area

Fortunately, Jakarta also has a highland

plantations, Puncak Pass (highest point),

(around the beginning of the 20th century a

holiday place: Puncak. This mountain

before you descend to the east: Cimacan,

hotel was established in Cipanas, possibly

region is even known nationwide and has

Cibodas and Cipanas (after Cipanas is

for transits). Europeans in Batavia at that

Cianjur, by which you exit the Puncak area

time chose Buitenzorg as a sanctuary

again). These ‘villages’ are then collectively

(Buitenzorg means ‘care free’). The Istana

referred to as the Puncak Area or simply

Bogor presidential palace was one of its

“Puncak”.

legacies; the palace began as a sort of rest

Two Centuries of Highland Holidaying Trends In the beginning, Puncak was a

That’s how the area developed. Clearly,

house for travelers fleeing their routines in Batavia, and at the same time served as a stopover along the way to Bandung.

So the trend to release the people from

mountainous area enveloped by dense

their problems and the heat of the capital

tropical rainforests. Several small villages

city was really started two centuries ago by

had indeed already speckled the area but

the Europeans. Yet it remains vague as to

with a still small population. Development

when the area of Puncak truly became the

dawned as the areas around Bandung

main choice among Jakartans. Obviously

were opened into numerous plantation

it was a gradual development. Around the

sites and as a consequence this “town

1960s, villas had already started to speckle

of Priangan” gradually grew under the

the Puncak area, although hotels were still

colonial Dutch rule together with the

scarce. Back then vacationers to these

plantations run by businessmen, eventually

cooler places were still small in number,

successfully evolving into a large city.

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53

Puncak also defines the area on the rim of the Gunung Gede-Pangrango range, approximately 50 km south of Jakarta.

there (no longer only Europeans). Then

it has what Jakarta is short of: cool fresh

especially for families is the Taman Safari

in the 1990s, Puncak started booming

air and vast greenery. Those are the main

Cisarua. This is Indonesia’s first wildlife

and became a main destination for

advantages of Puncak. And its proximity

safari park and boasts many species in

weekenders. This relates to economic

is relatively close, only from 50 to 70

its collection that are setup to resemble

development, Jakarta’s population, and

kilometers away. Traffic congestion aside,

the animals natural habitats, providing a

the ownership of private transportation.

it can be reached in 45 minutes to an hour

memorable experience for kids.

This decade saw trips to Puncak truly

from the city center.

becoming a necessity, if not a lifestyle.

Therefore, many tourists come only

Amongst other activities that are currently becoming trendy is outward-

Every weekend the area is now packed.

to nibble roast corn on the roadside,

bound activities. A number of hotels in the

Hotels and restaurants are full. Even a

sip hot tea or coffee or warm ‘bandrek’,

area conduct these. The Taman Wisata

number of houses have been established in

while taking in the soothing view of the

Matahari holiday park in Cisarua is targeted

the Cipanas area.

undulating and green Dutch-established

towards corporate outings, outbound and

Gunung Mas tea plantations, which spread

team building activities, and more.

What Jakarta Lacks

out as far as the eye can see, or merely

Puncak has its own appeal among

Then what really made this area, cradled

to experience the cold mist of the Puncak

Muslim tourists: shalat at the At-ta’awun

at from 400 to 900 meters above sea level,

Pass from a roadside warung, or have a

mosque boasts cold floors while mists

so exotic and attractive in the eyes of the

meal at the famed Rindu Alam restaurant.

permeate the inner sanctums of the

metropolitans? One thing for sure is that 54

BALI&BEYOND

DECEMBER 2009

One of the main destinations in the area

mosque, providing impressive nuances.

Shalat and visits are not only favored

surrounds the area, making it one of the

among locals, but also foreign tourists,

hidden gems of Puncak.

especially those from the Middle East.

This increasingly frequented area serves

For an adrenalin rush, hang gliding is an option. For something milder, but still

hundreds of types of cuisine; from Sunda of

sensational, visit the tea plantations. Here

course, to Middle Eastern. From roadside

you can sip and taste the freshest brews of

stalls and tea plantation perimeters, to fast

the Gunung Mas plantation, straight from

food chains, all can be found. Among the

the harvest. Or you might want to walk

new entries currently favored by visitors at

among the giant Araucaria Bidwilii trees

this time is Cimory fresh milk.

from Australia, or take a look at the Kebun

Don’t Miss These…

Some Hidden Gems

Raya Cibodas botanical gardens’ Auracaria Avenue. A walk amongst these giants is indeed humbling. And ferns are not plants

Cilember is a place frequently missed.

that we get to see every day. The highland

It is indeed located rather inward and

cryptogamous plants can also be seen

the entrance seems rather narrow. Yet

here. This mountainous botanical garden

Cilember promises refreshing nature tours

also has Ciwalen Leutik, a river that runs

boasting seven waterfalls! Lush foliage

through the road. You can take a stroll BALI&BEYOND

DECEMBER 2009

55

But for this one you need to bring special equipment such as rations, flashlights, a change of clothing, a raincoat, outdoor footwear, a sleeping bag and mattress (mountain huts are available for resting).

And don’t forget, enthusiasts of local history can enjoy the beauty of the Cipanas Palace that is often missed.

Small Hope across the stepping stones or drive across

number of monkeys and birds in the

Puncak’s appeals are so infinite. That’s

the river. Be careful, as the water is very,

trees, or merely take in the calm of the

why this place is always a magnet. With

very cold.

forest. Not far stand the three spectacular

the various attractions and activities it

waterfall spouts of the Cibereum falls.

promises, the area has through time not

Many other exotic highlights provide new sensations and experiences in the

Want more? At the peaks of Puncak

only evolved into a necessity but also a

area. Take your family on an adventure

Gede (2,958 m) and Pangrango (3,019

lifestyle. Hopefully it will always serve as

to the Gede Pangrango National Park.

m) located around 9 km from Cibereum

an “escape”, specifically among Jakartans

A 2.5 kilometer journey will take visitors

falls, there are Edelweiss in bloom. From

themselves; and hopefully Puncak will be

through rare Javanese rainforests,

Puncak Gede, the sunrise and fantastic

able to keep its charm running overtime. ■

crossing boardwalks 1 to 3 meters above

views towards the town of Cipanas can be

Text and photos by

the ground from where you can see any

seen. Both are highlights of this adventure.

Alcibbum Photography

Suggestions: For first-timers: take the family to Taman Safari. And for those

hotels are the Novus Puncak Resort and Spa, approximately

who already have, the night safari feature can be a different

1 km from the Istana Cipanas palace. The most gorgeous villas

experience. They say, “You haven’t been to Puncak if you

include: Ever Green, Maxus and Collibah (most can be rented).

haven’t dined at the Rindu Alam”. Meanwhile the Simpang

Golfing is at Gunung Geulis Resort & Country Club in Gadog.

Raya and Sederhana (both in Cipanas) are two other sought

56

after restaurants. Sate Bang Kadir (in Cipayung) is also on the

Tips:

recommendation list. Try the Cimory fresh milk – a new trend.

Many places are full on the weekends. Maximize your

Several beautiful places that are often overlooked include:

experience by visiting on weekdays. Hotels give up to 30%

Melrimba (Puncak Pass), Kebun Raya Cibodas botanical

discounts during these ‘quiet’ periods. And then you’ll have

gardens and Cilember (Cipayung). Among the recommended

Puncak all to yourself!

BALI&BEYOND

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57

BEYONDUPDATES

SEASONS OF ENCHANTMENT Crowne Plaza Jakarta celebrates the festive season with a program to suit each occasion and ensure a memorable celebration with family and friends. For New Year’s Eve, “Season of Enchantment” has been selected as this year’s theme. Guests dining on New Year’s Eve will have a chance to win a trip to the exotic destinations of Hanoi and Bangkok.

The hotel’s Beranda Café offers an Enchanting Christmas Eve Lunch and Dinner that serves welcome mocktails, eggnog or draft beer. Specially prepared attractive hampers of Christmas goodies and a wide selection of cakes and pastries are prepared for guests. A combination of a gala dinner and a night getaway has been designed. Call and ask for “Festive Season Reservations” and a coordinator will pleasantly assist you in confirming the arrangements. Crowne Plaza Jakarta, Jl. Gatot Subroto Kav 2-3, Jakarta, (021) 526-8833; www.crowneplaza.com/jakarta

SPARE THE SPARROW

BIENNALE JOGJA X Biennalle Jogja X-2009 hits the town of Yogyakarta with a full month schedule (from December 10 to January 10, 2010) where 130 sculptors and no less than 150 artists/groups will change the face of Yogyakarta into a town of arts, culture and producer of artists from various walks of life. Hundreds of these artists will colour the town with artwork on the streets, walls, stations, bus stops, stalls, at heritage sites and a public transportation stops. The theme of Biennalle X-2009 is ‘Jogja Jamming’: Artistic Archives Movement, reflecting the town as a producer and sanctuary of Indonesian artists. Biennale Jogja X-2009 venues include Taman Budaya Yogyakarta, Jogja National Museum, Sangkring Art Space, and the Bank Indonesia building. Taman Budaya Yogyakarta, Jl. Sriwedani no. 1 Yogyakarta, (0274) 587-712, www.biennalejogja.com 58

BALI&BEYOND

DECEMBER 2009

Melia Purosani Jogja and Yayasan Kutilang have launched a new Java Sparrow conservation program. The program was launched with nest boxes, bird feeders and casuarina tree installations in the hotel’s parking area and coconut trees in Melia’s garden. These are expected to help increase the Java Sparrow’s population at Melia Purosani. Another program is bird watching at the Parangsari Restaurant, in cooperation with the BKSDA nature conservation office. The Java Sparrow is endemic to Java and Bali and its population is decreasing and is in the ‘Vulnerable’ status. The birds can be found in Malang, Magelang, Kepurun, Candi Prambanan, and at Gua Luweng and Gunung Kidul.

Melia Purosani, Jogja, (0274) 589-521, www.meliajogja.com

BALI&BEYOND

DECEMBER 2009

59

BEYONDUPDATES

IN A JIFFY! The 11th Jakarta International Film Festival (JiFFest) is being held from December 4 to 12 at the Blitz Megaplex Grand Indonesia & Pacific Place in Jakarta. JiFFest has been held since 1999, with the goal of increasing the level of film appreciation among younger audiences. JiFFest offers a strong slate of foreign and domestic films, internationally renowned guests, and riveting panels and workshops.

With approximately 70% of the screenings held for free, everyone is invited to come and share in the community experience. The opening film is Sang Pemimpi (The Dreamer), sequel to one of Indonesia’s best movies, Laskar Pelangi (Rainbow Squad).

Jakarta International Film Festival, Jl. Sutan Syahrir I C/3-4, Jakarta, (021) 319-25-115; www.jiffest.org

SECOND CENTENNIAL Erasmuis Huis Jakarta presents an exhibition that coincides with the 200-year commemoration of Franz Wilhelm Junghuhn, a researcher on the island of Java from 1809-1864. The exhibition at Erasmus Huis Jakarta (in cooperation with the Goethe Institute) is held through January 10, 2010. To its people and to foreign visitors, the island of Java is beautiful and admirable and no one knew it so well and loved it like Junghuhn, who was of German-Dutch descent. He committed 19 years of his life to research, and the result is a book of thousands of pages of detailed Java nature sketches. Indonesian nature conservationists might well refer to him as one who had given early warnings of ecological disasters in Indonesia.

His botanicals geographic are still relevant to this day.

Erasmuis Huis Jakarta, (021) 524-1069 kultur@jakarta.goethe.org

SPIRIT OF NEW YEAR A painting exhibition organized by Talenta titled “Spirit of New Year,” is being held at Jakarta’s Pacific Place Mall, Halls B & F, from December 11 to 20. The event also features performances by more than 50 artists the likes of Arok, Ketut Soki, Soenarto, Jan Camerone, Mulyadi, Nico Sutanto Tan, Ari Sugiarto, Suprapto Diono, Wirapati, Mozes Misdy, Syumidjo Est and many others. This event is being held to further introduce and socialize art. At the end of the exhibition’s agenda, the artists present painting demonstrations.

This New Year themed exhibition is the continuation of a previous exhibition titled “Colours of Life” that was held in July this year. (Information courtesy talentaorg.blogspot.com)

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BALI&BEYOND

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HOTELHIGHLIGHTS HIGHLIGHT: Bali Masari Villas is a hotel with a difference and features four one-bedroom and eight two-bedroom luxury villas each with their own private plunge pool beautifully situated overlooking a ravine in the valley of the Petanu River. A place to be at one with nature, to soothe the senses - mind, body and soul.

Self-contained villas are perfect for honeymooners, for discerning travelers and executives.

FACILITIES: Restaurant providing a range of Asian and European food; bars, a spa, a large swimming pool and a smaller childrens pool. The villas have recently been refurbished to four star standards, each featuring its own dip pool and equipped with television, air conditioning, hot and cold water, telephone, electronic safety deposit box and kitchen. Spacious rooms boast high Balinese roofs, marble floors, a large central living area and a pull out sofa double bed.

LOCATION: The 1.6 hectare resort is situated near the Sukawati village in the Gianyar Regency.

45 minutes drive from the Ngurah Rai International Airport, 30 minutes from Ubud, 20 minutes from Sanur. Shopping and art markets are nearby in Sukawati.

CONTACT: Jl. Pantai Purnama, Banjar Gelumpang, Sukawati, Gianyar, Tel: (0361) 290-029, Fax: (0361) 290-050; E-mail: reservations@balimasarivillas.com; Website: www.balimasarivillas.com

HIGHLIGHT: The Mentari Sanur Hotel is tucked away down a small side street just off Jalan Hangtuah at the northern end off Sanur, Bali’s most enchanted village. Shaded by frangipani trees, this two-storey 28 rooms hotel offers the ideal combination of modern facilities and a charming Balinese atmosphere with family style hospitality and service.

FACILITIES: A large luxury private swimming pool is the right place for you to pamper your self and relax in a privacy atmosphere under a warm tropical sun.

Tunjung Restaurant offers a combination of continental and traditional Balinese dining, cozy lounge is the area where you can sit down, relax, and bar will serves you varieties of drinks.

Free exclusive broadband internet access.

LOCATION: Located in a tranquil coastal village of Sanur make the Mentari Sanur Hotel is situated in an ideal location with immediate access to the main highway and just minutes from many great tourist activities and attraction, 25 minutes drive to the Ngurah Rai International Airport, 20 minutes drive to Kuta Beach, 5 minutes drive to the Sanur shopping area, 10 minutes drive to Denpasar and 30 minutes to Ubud.

CONTACT: Jl. Hangtuah III No.3, Sanur, Tel: (0361) 283-286, Fax: (0361) 283-017 E-mail: sales@mentarisanur.com; Website: www.mentarisanur.com

HIGHLIGHTS: The Maxi Hotel & Spa is situated in the heart of Bali’s shopping and nightlife district. Centrally located, the property offers an ideal base for visitors wishing to explore Bali while keeping all the island’s best shops, bars, restaurants and beaches within easy walking distance.

FACILITIES: Hotel facilities and services include restaurant, bar, meeting room, massage and spa, room service, swimming pool with Jacuzzi, children’s pool, laundry and dry cleaning service, airport pickup and transfer, snack bar, tour desk, doctor on call, free car park, baby sitter upon request, broadband internet connection, major credit cards accepted, individually controlled air-conditioning, local and IDD telephone, satellite TV, daily mineral water, private bathroom with bathtub and shower, mini bar, personal electronic safe deposit, tea & coffee maker. The balcony overlooking the swimming pool and landscaped tropical garden offers a private area for relaxing.

LOCATION: The hotel is less than 15 minutes from Ngurah Rai International Airport; 20 minutes drive to Denpasar, 30 minutes from Sanur, Nusa Dua and within 45 minutes drive to the artistic centre of Ubud and about 350 meters from Bali’s famous Kuta Beach.

CONTACTS: Jl. Legian 83A, Legian, Tel: (0361) 754-082, Fax: (0361) 750-792 E-mail: info@maxi-hotel.com; Website: www.maxi-hotel.com

HIGHLIGHTS: Pioneering three in one concept, hotel, suites and villas located in the heart of hippest Seminyak Area. Famous area for clubs, boutiques and restaurants. Walking distance to beaches.

With perfect concept “Naturally Elegant” post Perfect palace for honeymooners, party goers and fashionista.

FACILITIES: 96 hotel rooms, 60 spacious suites, 7 villas with private pool in each, function and meeting rooms, Three Main swimming pools, Atma Spa, SABEEN Healthy Restaurant, Gym, Library, Tirta Pool bar, butler services, Limousine service, LCD TV’s, Broadband Internet connection.

Honeymoon package, Meeting package, Bed and breakfast package and Photo-shoot wedding Package.

LOCATION: 15 Minutes from Ngurah Rai International Airport, walking distance to beaches, Shopping area, and Boutiques.

CONTACTS: The Haven Hotel, Jl. Raya Seminyak 500 – Bali, Tel: (0361) 738-001 The Haven Suites & Villas, Gg. Raja, Jalan Double Six – Seminyak - Bali Tel: (0361) 738-001, Fax: (0361) 738-002, Sales: (0361) 738-008 E-mail: info@thehavenbali.com; Website: www.thehavenbali.com

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PORTRAITS

BY JARED COLLINS Tony Raka Art Gallery presents a solo exhibition

by Jared Collins, with an opening on December 26 at 6.30 p.m. The exhibition runs through January 26.

In 2007, National Geographic award winning fine-art portrait photographer Jared Collins relocated his studio from New York City to Ubud in Bali, where he set out to create a dramatic series of images documenting the most distinctive Balinese women adorned in ornate ceremonial costumes.

Collins had expected that the age of the models would likely range from 18 to 21 years old, but during the casting process Collins came to discover that by the time the Balinese women had reached their late teens and early 20´s, something had gotten lost - “their energy wasn´t strong enough.” Only the kids that he had seen still had it. Tony Raka Art Gallery Jl. Raya Mas No. 86, Mas, Ubud, (0361) 781-6785 www.tonyrakaartgallery.com

FREE ZONE Maha Art Gallery at Sector Bar in Sanur presents Free Zone, a joint art exhibition that runs through January 9, 2010. Astari is rooted in Indonesia’s traditional and social concerns, specifically cultural gender issues that deal with tradition versus modernity.

Arahmaiani is a key figure in the current art scene in Indonesia. She gets around a lot and although her international reputation mainly comes from her performances, she also works with painting, drawing, installation, poetry, dance, and music. Ito Joyoatmojo was born and raised in Jakarta. He has loved painting since 1973.He studied art formally at the Indonesian Art School (ISI) in Jogyakarta, and continued his art education at the Jakarta Art Academy (now the Jakarta Art Institute - IKJ). Made Djirna is one of Indonesia’s leading modern painters. Tatang Bsp was born in Tegal, Central Java, on 1965. He studied at Faculty of Veterinary at Udayana University, Bali and received top ten winners in Philip Morris Indonesia Art Awards on 1998. Maha Art Gallery, Club House Bali Beach Golf Course, Jl. Hang Tuah 58, Sanur (0361) 289-566, www.mahaartgallery.com

ARSENIC FANTASY Gaya Art Space presents a solo exhibition by Sinta Tantra through December 15 titled Arsenic Fantasy. Although she has exhibited internationally in the past, it is her first time showing in Indonesia. Sinta was born in New York, but her Balinese family lived in Indonesia, Singapore, America and the UK. Growing up she developed quite a strong affinity for Bali, considering it one of her many ‘homes,’ and quickly learned that ‘identity’ was neither fixed nor stable. ‘Identity’ was not about where you lived or about where your parents came from; rather it was about developing a series of differences; establishing a role in the world that was culturally constructed, wholly transient and constantly changing in relation to a globalised economy.

Gaya Fusion, Jl. Raya Sayan, Ubud (0361) 979-252 www. gayafusion.com; www.sintatantra.com 62

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INDONESIAN PULSES

ART[I]CULATION Hanna Artspace hosts an exhibition titled “Art[i]culation” from December 12 to January 12, 2010 that is curated by Arif Bagus Prasetyo. Art(i)culation” is a year-end art exhibition from Hanna Artspace which that is dedicated to welcoming the prosperous hope of the coming year and presenting works of artists from 5 major cities who have become art icons in Indonesia, namely Sigit Santosa, Dyan Anggraeni, Gusti Alit, Lulus Santosa, Putu Sutawijaya, Wayan Cahya, Budi Ubrux, Entan Wiharso, Katirin, Nasirun, Ridi Winarno, Syahrizal Koto, Muhamad Rusnoto (Yogyakarta), Teguh Ostentrik, Neneng S. Ferrier, Yani Mariani Sastranegara, Ade Artie Tjakra (Jakarta), Tisna Sanjaya, Diyanto, Tiarma Sirait (Bandung), Ivan Haryanto, Djunaidi Kenyut, Anas Etan, Bilaningsih, Agung Tato (Surabaya), Antonius Kho, I Wayan Kun Adnyana,Nyoman Erawan, Suklu, Sucipto Adi, Nyoman Sujana Kenyem, Sura Ardana, Bambang Adi Pramono, Nyoman Kardana, Diyano Purwadi, Nyoman Erawan and Ketut Teler (Bali).

Hanna Artspace, Jalan Raya Pengosekan, Ubud (0361) 978-216; www.hannaartspace.blogspot.com

Indonesian Pulses is a joint photography exhibition displaying the works of Meliana Salim and Leon Vrielink.

Meliana Salim’s first showing of her works reveals her two favorite gratifications in life: traveling and scuba diving.

29-year-old Meliana hails from Jakarta and currently manages an established publishing company in Bali. She’s also a contributing photojournalist for magazines. Leon Vrielink was pronounced Bali’s youngest known photographer at 18 last year before he left for studies at The Royal Art Academy in De Hague, Holland - but decided he missed Bali so came back to the island he loves. This exhibition includes new works through a more mature artistic sense.

Indonesian Pulses takes place at the Swiss-Belhotel Bay View in Nusa Dua, and runs through December 26.

Swiss-Belhotel Bay View, Nusa Dua, Jl. Kebo Iwa, Taman Mumbul, Nusa Dua, (0361) 848-000 www.swiss-belhotelbayview.com

REVIVAL 80 years since the establishment of Pita Maha, 58 Balinese traditional painters from Ubud, Batuan, Tegalalang, and Pengosekan hold a painting exhibition titled Kehadiran Kembali or ‘Revival’ (80 years after Pita Maha). The exhibition opens on December 12 and runs through January 12, 2010. Pita Maha was the first Balinese artist’s organization entity and was sponsored

by Tjokorda Gde Agung Sukawati (the King of Ubud), Walter Spies and Rudolf Bonnet. Following Pita Maha’s birth, there were almost no creative innovations from that generation who continued the Bali traditional style.

Tangkas Gallery, Jl. Raya Ubud, (0361) 975-793 www.tangkasgallerybali.com

FOLLOW THE WHITE RABBIT Biasa Artspace presents Mondo: Follow the White Rabbit, a solo exhibition by Mondo that is curated by Valentine Willie. The exhibition is being held through December 20. The White Rabbit is a fictional character in Lewis Caroll’s book Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland, who appears at the very beginning of the book.

Alice follows him down the rabbit hole into Wonderland. Mondo (full name Edmondo Zanolini) first came to Bali 20 years ago after a successful career in Italy as a theatre director and designer, and film/video artist. And with occasional forays into Southeast Asian countries like Thailand, Vietnam and Cambodia, he continues to live in the hills of Ubud, Bali. Though he often exhibits with the late Murni, his Balinese life partner, this is his first major solo exhibition in Bali since he first came here 20 years ago, and it constitutes a summary of his life to date in the “wonderland” of Southeast Asia and Bali in particular. Biasa Artspace, Jalan Raya Seminyak 34, Kuta, (0361) 847-5766; www.biasaart.com

PICTURE THIS Harris Hotels & Resorts Bali hosts a photo exhibition by Camille Vivier through January 15. Vivier was born in 1977 in Paris and her photographs have been published in various magazines like Mixte, Purple, L’Express Style, The New Yorker, and exhibited in galleries and art centers.

In 1998, Camille (who lives in Paris) won the photography award on the 12th Festival de Hyres, an international photography and fashion festival. www.harris-hotels.com BALI&BEYOND

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SEE&SEEN

WHAT A WEEK! Aravane Rezai won the Commonwealth Bank Tournament of Champions at the BICC Westin Resort Nusa Dua on November 8, as Marion Bartoli was forced to retire with injuries in an all-French final after losing the opening set 7-5. The five days leading up to the finals saw various off-court highlights including coaching clinics, pot-painting, cooking, skincare and beauty classes, and charity events. www.commbanktennis.com

A CULTURAL EVENT Runa Museum had a full agenda in early November that included a collaborative exhibition titled “Timeless Change” with works

by Adriaan Palar (founder of Runa Museum) and jewelry by Runi Palar (jewelry designer) shown at the Ganesha Gallery in the Four Seasons Resort in Jimbaran, a classical Balinese dance showcase with senior masters titled “Dancing with Time,” and a photography exhibition by Doddy Obenk.

The dance and photography exhibitions were showcased at the Runa Museum in Ubud on November 6.

Runa Museum, Banjar Abiansemal, Lodtunduh, Ubud, (0361) 980-710

FROZEN LANDINGS Sour Sally Frozen Yogurt, has finally arrived in Bali, with the opening of its first outlet at the Mall Bali Galleria in Kuta on November 2. Sour Sally has 19 outlets in several cities in Indonesia. The next outlet in Bali will be opening soon at the Discovery Shopping Mall. The Sour Sally ‘FroYo’ franchise hails from the US and provides 3 sensations of yogurt: plain original, pinklicious, and green tea, with at least 20 choices of fruit and cereal toppings. www.mysoursally.com

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FLAWLESS SKIN Pevonia Botanica treated the women tennis players to a skin care awareness session at the Laguna Resort & Spa amidst their weeklong tournament. Six tennis players, Yanina Wickmayer, Vera Dushevina, Sabine Lisicki, Aravane Rezai, Melinda Czink and Kimiko Date-Krumm participated in the ‘Pevonia Journey to Flawless Skin’ sessions and enjoyed the presentations on the importance of skin care by Kellie Baker Baker from Pevonia. www.pevonia.co.id

SEE&SEEN

JUST FREAKS Hard Rock Cafe Bali threw a Halloween party at the end of October, thinking that the ‘day of the dead’ was the right time to call in and invite all of the floating ghosts and ghouls that included dead stars from Michael Jackson and Playboy Bunnies to Captain Jack Sparrow, all scattered over the venue. On the entertainment side, the band Asia Line rocked it up along with DJ Buche until the wee hours.

Hard Rock Cafe Bali, Jl. Pantai Kuta Banjar Pande Mas, (0361) 755-661

FINALE! Hard Rock Hotel Bali’s Following the conclusion of the 6-star prime Quiksilver Open surfing competition at Keramas, the winner’s presentation took place at the CenterStage of the Hard Rock Hotel Bali in November.

The event was kicked off by MC’s Tipi Jabrik and Matt Hoy with a Roxy Short Short Competition. The 11 finalists from Bali and Jakarta competed for a chance to become the next Roxy model. The event finished off with the screening of the Quiksilver Open 2009 video highlights followed by the presentation of trophies to the winners. www.quiksilver; www.isctour.com

FUN WEEKEND Nikko Bali Resort & Spa held a fun day event called “Nikko & I” on Sunday, November 15 a token of gratitude and appreciation and to celebrate the joyful and amazing world of children. The event that took place mainly at the Graha Sawangan Ballroom featured interactive games and activities based on different age groups, facilitated by a professional team. From the simple entertainment of balloon animals to a fun interactive treasure hunt around the resort, Nikko & I was highlighted by a special musical performance from the children of the Purwacaraka Music School and a comedy magic show.

Nikko Bali Resort and Spa, Nusa Dua (0361) 773-377; www.nikkobali.com

CHEFS ‘N KIDS The Bali Culinary Professionals (BCP) joined together with Bali Safari and Marine Park on November 12 to host over 100 underprivileged kids in the dual celebration of International Chefs Day and the Second Anniversary of the Bali Safari & Marine Park. Safari adventures, the park’s elephant show, games, prizes and a wildly popular cake decorating competition provided the children from four of Bali’s orphanages with fun and laughs. www.balichefs.com

RED DROPS FOR LIFE Hard Rock Hotel Bali together with the Indonesian Red Cross from Sanglah Hospital conducted a blood donation drive on Friday, November 13. The donated blood will be used for transfusions or to assist in giving someone else another chance at life. Up to three lives can be saved with just one donation. The blood donation program is held twice annually as part of Hard Rock Hotel Bali’s contribution to the local community. More than 150 participants from the Hard Rock Hotel Bali joined in on the program. Hard Rock Hotel Bali, Jalan Pantai, Banjar Pande Mas, Kuta, (0361) 761-869

UNVEILED The Akasha Bali Private Beach Villas launched on October 30. The soft opening was attended by supporting partners and unveiled the 12 private exclusive villas on offer to valued customers, both honeymooners and families. Each spacious villa compound is approximately 600 square meters, complete with modern facilities and DECEMBER 2009 65 a spa.BALI&BEYOND Villa Akasha, www.theakashabali.com

SEE&SEEN z

SOLEMNLY Bali hosted the First Annual International Bali Meditators Festival in downtown Ubud from November 14-16. The creation of the Indonesian author, educator and spiritual leader Anand Krishna, the Bali conference sought to explore and expand the role that meditation plays in the world’s great faiths and religions. Seminars and workshops featured top figures and practitioners in the subject, the likes of Merta Ada and L. K. Suryani, who discussed different topics.

The festival closed with a Sufi Night, with Balinese singer Ayu Laksmi singing spiritual songs. The Sufi Night took place at the Bale Banjar Ubud Kelod and attracted many locals and westerners. International Bali Meditators Festival, (0361) 8779752, www.balimeditators.com

INTER-ISLAND MEETS Members of the Inter-Island Tourism Policy Forum held their 13th annual meeting at the Sanur Beach Hotel in November. The governors and vice governors of Bali, South Ceylon, Okinawa, Hainan, and Jeju signed a petition for “Building Partnerships on Sustainable Marine Tourism Development for Island Tourism.” Sanur Beach Hotel, Jl. Danau Tamblingan, Sanur, (0361) 288-011 www.sanurbeachotelbali.com

CHILEAN CHEERS BAR ‘N BREEZE The Patra Bali Resort & Villas held a cocktail party on October 30 on the lawn of the resort that was attended by members of the island’s tourism industry and media. The occasion was hosted by the PR & Sales team of the resort and was aimed at maintaining good relations with all the media components and increase awareness of The Patra Bali Resort & Villas as well as introducing its new beach bar, The Bar. The Patra Bali Resort & Villas; Jl. Ir. H. Juanda, South Kuta Beach; (0361) 751-161 www.patrabali.com

InterContinental Bali Resort’s Bella Singaraja featured a six-course menu accompanied by wine from Chile. Taste buds were transported to regional Chile with a selection of wines under the celebrated Undurraga label. Estate owners and viticulturists Jose Yuraszeck and Rafael Tapia presented a captivating overview of each wine as it was served. InterContinental Bali Resort, Jimbaran (0361) 701-888

PEDALING CHEERS

MUSIC RUSH Soundrenaline 2009 was themed ‘An “A” Experience Soundrenaline: Lead The Beat!’ and was held on November 15 at the Garuda Wisnu Kencana (GWK), featuring top national musicians and bands the likes of The Rock, Superman Is Dead, Saint Loco, The Changcuters, Andra and The Backbone, Nidji, Gigi, Slank, local Balinese guitar prodigy Balawan and many others from various genres. The gigs were dispersed throughout several venues around GWK; at two Festival Park stages, the Lotus Pond, the Amphitheatre, and featured a Street of Beat that was the focus of the activities.

66 BALI&BEYOND DECEMBER 2009 www.amild.com

Celebrating the 12th Anniversary of Le Méridien Nirwana Golf & Spa Resort, staff and management of the resort held a Nirwana’s Fun Bike and Durian Party on November 14. This event officially signaled the opening of a series of activities that celebrates their anniversary, from November 14 to January 15, 2010.

Cheerful participants rode to the resort’s central park through scenic rice fields and past various villages of Bali’s pristine eastern coast, and then back to the resort for the frenzied durian party and door prizes.

Le Meridian Nirwana Golf & Spa Resort Bali (0361) 815-900; www.lemeridien.com/bali

SPIRIT OF ART InterContinental Bali Resort hosted ‘The Spirit of Art – Bali’ by Museum Rudana in November. This exclusive three day event celebrated the rich diversity of local fine arts with an exhibition of works by some of the most respected painters. The exhibition showcased over 45 paintings inspired by the universal theme of eternal love.

There were several works by Nyoman Gunarsa as well as vibrant abstracts by Made Wianta and contemporary masterpieces by Srihadi Soedarsono amongst others.

Many pieces depicted personal interpretations that reflected the grace of traditional Balinese dance. www.museumrudana.com

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SKAL INTERNATIONAL BALI An International Association of Travel and Tourism Professionals Doing Business Among Friends

BIG WINNERS IN BUDAPEST AND BALI

Almost at the same time as Skal Bali’s Past President Keith Bell was in cool Budapest accepting the Skal International Platinum Award for Bali as the number one of five hundred Skal clubs in net membership growth and retention, a convivial group of members and guests, some pictured here, were enjoying a Bali sun drenched day and lunch at the Hu’u Bar and Nutmegs Restaurant in Petitenget. Bread and sambal rolls, watermelon gazpacho salad with coriander pesto preceded the main course of blackened swordfish with crayfish potatoes and saffron thyme aioli. Those who still had room then enjoyed macadamia double fudge warm chocolate brownie with caramel ice cream. Another winner!

COMING EVENTS AT THE BEST VENUES IN BALI The 160 members of Skal Bali meet monthly for a great meal, fellowship, fun, networking and an opportunity to bond and get to know industry colleagues. On the calendar are: January 8 – Melia Bali Villas & Spa Resort – Nusa Dua February 5 – Sanur Paradise Plaza Hotel – Sanur March 5 – Holiday Inn Resort Baruna Bali - Tuban ABOUT SKAL AND SKAL BALI Skal International, founded in Paris in 1934, is the World’s largest travel and tourism organization with over 20,000 members in 500 clubs in 90 countries.

Members are tourism industry management and professionals providing accommodation, transportation, tours, travel, marine and cruise tourism, attractions, restaurants, golf, spas and travel media.

Skal Bali is the largest club in Southeast Asia and World Leader in Membership Growth Membership and Information: Gede Juwena Telephone: 7840212; email: gede@skalbali.com skalbali@dps.centrin.net.id

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ACCOMMODATION

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ACTION & ATTRACTION

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Name: _________________________________________________ Address: _______________________________________________ City: ___________________________________________________ Country: ___________________ Postcode: ___________________ Phone: _________________________________________________ E-mail: _________________________________________________ Payment Method by Transfer Delivery fees: Within Indonesia : Rp. 150.000/year Asia, Australia & Africa : US$ 220/year Europe & America : US$ 240/year Please settle payment to the following account: PT. Bumi Dian Kusuma, (A/C. IDR) 434.01.00210.00.4 CIMB NIAGA - CAB. KUTA GRAHA, KUTA-BALI Fax this form and proof of transfer to (0361) 762-096 Please reconfirm your fax by calling (0361) 764-274 BALI&BEYOND

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THE SUN... THE SAND... THE SURF... THE CULTURE OF PARADISE AND OVER 18,000 SURROUNDING ISLANDS

BALI & BEYOND

INFOINDEX AIRLINES

Tel: (0361) 285-485, Fax: 286-406 E-mail: consul @dps.centrin.net.id

■ AIRPORT OPERATOR: Tel: (0361) 751-011 ■ CATHAY PACIFIC AIRWAYS: Wisthi Sabha Building, 2nd Floor Ngurah Rai International Aiprort Call Centre: 0804-1-888888 ■ CONTINENTAL MICRONESIA: Tel: (0361) 768-358, Fax: 768-369

■ GERMANY: Jl. Pantai Karang 17, Sanur Tel: (0361) 288-535; Fax: 288-826 Email: dtkonsbali@denpasar.wasantara.net.id ■ HUNGARY: Marintur, Jl. By Pass Ngurah Rai 219, Sanur.

Tel: (0361) 287-701 Fax: 287-456 Email: cristofoli@denpasar.wasantara.net.id ■ ITALY: Lotus Enterprises Building Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai, Jimbaran Tel: (0361) 701-005 E-mail: italconsbali @italconsbali.org

■ ROYAL BRUNEI: Tel: (0361) 757-292 ■ SINGAPORE AIRLINES: Jl. I Gusti Ngurah Rai, Airport Tel: (0361) 768-388, Fax: 768-383 ■ GARUDA: Jl. Jalan Sugianyar 5 Denpasar Tel. (0361) 227-824, Fax: 226-298 24-hour access: 08071-807-807

■ JAPAN: Jl. Raya Puputan 170, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 227-628; Fax: 265-066 ■ MEXICO: PT Puri Astina Putra Building Jl. Prof. Moh. Yamin 1A, Renon Tel: (0361) 223-266 E-mail: yudhara@astinatravel.com

■ MERPATI: Jl. Melati No. 51, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 235-358 Airport Tel: (0361) 751-011, ext. 5240/5242 Hotline: Tel: (0361) 722-740, 722-741

■ NETHERLANDS: KCB Travel, Jl. Raya Kuta 127, KutaTel: (0361) 751-517, Fax: 752-777 E-mail: purwa@denpasar.wasantara.net.id

■ MANDALA AIRLINES: Komp. Plaza Kertawijaya, Jl. Diponogoro No. 98, Denpasar Reservation Call center 08041234567

■ NORWAY & DENMARK: Mimpi Resorts, Jimbaran, Tel: (0361) 701070 E-mail: mimpi@mimpi.com

■ NGURAH RAI AIRPORT: Tel/Fax: (0361) 759-761

■ SLOVAKIA: Jl.Gunung Agung 93, Denpasar 80118 Tel: (0361) 426171; Fax: 426-477 E-mail: konsulslowakbali@yahoo.com

■ THAI INTERNATIONAL: Grand Bali Beach Sanur, Tel: (0361) 288-141 ■ QATAR AIRWAYS: Discovery Kartika Plaza Hotel, South Kuta Beach Tel: (0361) 752-222; Fax: 753-788.

Wisti Sabha Building, 2nd Floor, Ngurah Rai International Aiprort, Tel: (0361) 760-274 Fax: 760-275 ■ DEPARTURE Arrive at the airport two hours prior to departure.

A Rp. 150,000 international departure tax is required. Domestic departure fee is Rp 30,000.

Residents pay an additional Rp. 2.5 million Fiscal tax for international departures, whereas holders of official tax registration (NPWP) numbers are Fiscal tax-exempt.

Ngurah Rai Intíl Airport, Tel: (0361) 751-011

■ SPAIN: Jl.Raya Sanggingan, Br. Lungsiakan Kedewatan, Ubud. Tel: (0361) 975-736 Fax: 975-726; E-mail: rabik@indo.net.id ■ SWEDEN & FINLAND: Jl. Segara Ayu (Segara Village Hotel) Tel: (0361) 288-407, Fax: 287-242 E-mail: segara1@denpasar.wasantara.net.id

■ BRITAIN: Jl. Mertasari 2, Sanur, Denpasar 80227. Tel: (0361) 270-601 Fax: 270-570 E-mail: tamarin@dps.centrin.net.id ■ CZECH REPUBLIC: Jl. Pengembak 17 Sanur. Tel: (0361) 286-465, Fax: 286-408 E-mail: bali@honorary.mzv.cz ■ FRANCE: Jl. Mertasari Gg. II No. 8, Sanur

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HOSPITAL ■ MEDICAL EVACUATIONS: Contact your consulate.

■ BIMC HOSPITAL: Provides medical attention for emergencies and evacuations. Jl. Ngurah Rai 100X, at the KutaSanur-Nusa Dua roundabout.

Tel: (0361) 761-263.

■ INTERNATIONAL SOS CLINIC: 24-hour emergency medical clinic services, medical evacuation, multilingual staff.

Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai 505X, Kuta 80361.

Tel: (0361) 710-505, Fax: 710-515.

■ RUMAH SAKIT UMUM PUSAT SANGLAH (General Hospital): Jl. Diponegoro, Sanglah, Denpasar. Tel: (0361) 227-911/15.

■ KASIH IBU HOSPITAL: (Private Hospital) 24-hour emergency traumatology unit, maternity center, complete facilities and a full list of specialists, Jl. Teuku Umar 120, Denpasar.

Tel: (0361) 223-036; Fax: 238-690 Email: marketing@kasihibu.co.id www.kasihibu.co.id

MUSEUMS

■ SWITZERLAND & AUSTRIA: Istana Kuta Galeria Blok Valet 2 No 12, Kuta Tel: (0361) 751-735, Fax: 754-457 E-mail: swisscon@telkom.net

■ ABIAN KAPAS: Tel: (0361) 227-176 East Denpasar.

■ UNITED STATES: Jl. Hayam Wuruk 188, Denpasar. Tel: (0361) 233-605 E-mail: amcobali@indosat.net.id

■ AGUNG RAI MUSEUM OF ART (ARMA): Ubud, Tel: (0361) 976-659, Fax: 974-229.

Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud, open daily 8 am-6pm.

CONSULATES ■ AUSTRALIA, CANADA, NEW ZEALAND: Jl. Tantular No. 32, Renon - Denpasar 80234 Tel: (0361) 241-118, Fax: 221-195 E-mail: bali.congen@dfat.gov.au www.dfat.gov.au

fever, but this is not a problem in tourist areas.

Bali is non-malarial and prophylaxis is not required. Mosquito bites, cuts or abrasions easily become infected in the tropics. Treat them immediately.

Drink only bottled or boiled water. Peel fruit before eating; avoid raw vegetables except at reputable restaurants. Ice in restaurants is safe. Protect yourself from the intense equatorial sun. Use high SPF sunblock and a hat.

AIDS and sexually transmitted diseases are increasing in Indonesia. Local sex workers have multiple partners from around the world.

They are not checked for sexually transmitted diseases. Act responsibly and use condoms, available over the counter at pharmacies.

HEALTH & MEDICAL Call an ambulance by dialing 118, but it is a lot more practical and quicker to hire a taxi.

Most hotels have on-call doctors on standby.

For “Bali Belly”, Lomotil and Imodium eliminate symptoms, but not gastro-related infections. A fever along with symptoms requires doctor-prescribed antibiotics.

Drink as much liquid as possible. Isotonic drinks under various brand names are widely available and are known to replenish body hydration and replace fluids. For discomfort, diarrhea and cramping, drink strong, hot tea; avoid fruits and spicy foods.

Some day-biting mosquitoes carry dengue

DECEMBER 2009

■ ANTONIO BLANCO: Tel: (0361) 975-502, 975-551, Ubud, open daily 8 am-5 pm.

■ ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM: Tel: (0361) 942-352, Pejeng. Open 8 am - 3 pm weekdays.

■ GEDONG KIRTYA HISTORICAL LIBRARY: Tel: (0362) 25141, Jl. Veteran, Singaraja. Open 7am - 3pm Monday - Thursday, until Fridaynoon, closed on weekends.

■ GALLERY SENIWATI: Jl. Ubud Raya, Gianyar. Tel: (0361) 975-485 ■ MUSEUM BALI: Tel: (0361) 235-059, 222-680, Jl. Let. Kol Wisnu, Denpasar.

■ MUSEUM LE MAYEUR: Tel: (0361) 286-164, Jl. Hang Tuah, Sanur.

Open 8 am - 2 pm, Tuesday - Sunday.

■ MUSEUM MANUSA YADNYA: Mengwi, open daily, but often unattended.

■ MUSEUM NEKA: Tel: (0361) 975-074, 975-034, Jl. Raya Campuan, Ubud open daily 9 am - 5 pm.

■ MUSEUM PURI LUKISAN: Tel: (0361) 975-136, 971-159, Jl. Raya Ubud Ubud, www.mpl-ubud.com ■ MUSEUM RUDANA: Tel: (0361) 975-779, 976-479, Peliatan, Ubud.

■ MUSEUM SUBAK: Tel: (0361) 810-315, Jl. Raya Kediri, Desa Sanggulan, Tabanan.

TELECOMMUNICATIONS ■ CELLULAR SERVICES Indonesia applies GSM (Global Services for Mobiles). You can purchase prepaid calling cards at lower cost than calling on your home card. Major Service Providers are Telkomsel, Satelindo, Pro XL and Indosat. Look for kiosks and outlet signs or banners with product variants and brand markings.

■ TELKOMSEL The major GSM provider, Telkomsel, is reputed to have the widest national coverage area, minimizing connection and signal relay inconvenience.

Graha Telkomsel, Jl. Diponegoro 134 Denpasar. Tel: (0361) 228-811.

TOURIST INFORMATION ■ INTEGRATED TOURISM INFORMATION CENTER (ITIC) A one-stop tourist information complex of ten provinces in Indonesia comprising Bali, Lampung, Jakarta, Banten, West Java, Central Java, East Java, Jogjakarta.

Jl. Raya Kuta 2, Kuta, 80361 Tel: (0361) 766-188 ■ NGURAH RAI INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT: Tel: (0361) 751-011 ■ BADUNG GOVERNMENT TOURISM OFFICE: Jl. Kuta Raya 2, Kuta Tel: (0361) 756-175/76 ■ BALI GOVERNMENT TOURISM OFFICE: Jl. Supratman, Niti Mandala, Renon, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 222-387 ■ SINGARAJA TOURIST INFORMATION OFFICE: Jl. Veteran 23, Singaraja Tel: (0362) 251-41 ■ UBUD TOURIST INFORMATION SERVICE: Jl. Raya Ubud, Gianyar Tel: (0361) 96-285, 973-285; 8 am - 9 pm.

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