Bali & Beyond Magazine January 2015

THE SUN... THE SAND... THE SURF... THE CULTURE OF PARADISE AND OVER 18,000 SURROUNDING ISLANDS

J A N U A R Y 2 015 VOLUME 16 NO. 176

www.baliandbeyond.co.id

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BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2015

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TEAMTALK

MODERN TAKES ‘Om Swastiastu...’

There was once a time when it was considered ‘uncool’ to wear batik, but thank goodness that is no longer the case. These days Indonesians are quite proud of their cultural heritage and eager to share it, not only with the international community but more importantly with the younger generation.

In this edition we explore a number of ways that people are bringing Indonesian history and culture into modern day life. In PROFILE & PORTRAIT we have an interview with Ibu Indra Tjahjani, a woman passionate about teaching Indonesian youth about

COVER

By Brook Mitchell

batik and the meaning behind the patterns. In SHOPPING SPREE you’ll find stunning smartphone cases from BatikGeek, a company that pays homage to Indonesian mythical creatures, batik and shadow puppets through its eco-friendly products.

The history of rijsttafel is an intriguing one, and in DINE & DELIGHTS we share with you three places in Bali that offer this lavish Dutch feast of Indonesian treats. And in REST & RELAXATION we give you a peek into the newly opened Centara Grand Villas Nusa Dua, where Peranakan style influences the interior design. The Peranakan are the Chinese immigrants who settled in the Indonesian archipelago from the 15th to 17th century – a very interesting part of this country’s history.

There is so much more to read about, so flip through this edition to get a taste of the rich cultural experiences this country has to offer. We hope it inspires you to get a deeper understanding of the lovely people who are hosting you during your stay.

And as always, we hope you have a great holiday!

‘Om Shanti Shanti Shanti Om…’ The Team

Note: In our December 2014 edition on page 14, the restaurant Lacalaca is misspelled as ‘Laca Laca.’ We apologize for any inconveniences.

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BALI & BEYOND General Manager GOESTAMAR ARDIBRATA goestamar@baliandbeyond.co.id Managing Editor MUTIA ARINI ADISOMA mutia@baliandbeyond.co.id Junior Editor JOSEPH WANG joseph@baliandbeyond.co.id Editorial Advisors A.A. GEDE RAI, JOHN M. DANIELS Graphic Advisor WENIAR PRAMESTI Senior Graphic Designer I PUTU PARTAJAYA putu@baliandbeyond.co.id Web & Graphic Designer MELIYANA SANTOSO meli@baliandbeyond.co.id Advertising & MarComm. Manager D. ARIEF SENOAJI arief@baliandbeyond.co.id Senior Advertising Sales Executive I PUTU RAI SUTRISMA rai@baliandbeyond.co.id Senior Advertising Sales Executive MEE WAURAN mee@baliandbeyond.co.id F&A Supervisor A.A. KETUT SUKERTI agung@baliandbeyond.co.id GA & Personnel Adm GEDE ADARA adara@baliandbeyond.co.id Distribution NYOMAN TRI HARIAN SAPUTRA nyoman@baliandbeyond.co.id Contributors ANGGARA MAHENDRA, KATIE TRUMAN, DEWI IRMA PHIL GREEN, BROOK MITCHELL, ARIKO AHMAD, DEWA AYU EKA PUTRI

Jakarta Marketing Services/Subscription RISKA WAHYUNINGSIH riska.wahyuningsih@baliandbeyond.co.id Tel: (021) 398 36061 (Ext. 224) Publisher PT. BUMI DIAN KUSUMA Commissioner SOETIKNO SOEDARJO Director MAULANA INDRAGUNA SUTOWO Division Head MRA Printed Media INDRIATI WIRJANTO

Printing PT. SUBURMITRA GRAFISTAMA, JAKARTA OFFICE Bali White House Jl. Dewi Sri No. 23 Block IV, Kuta 80361- Bali Tel: +62 361 8868601-2, Fax: +62 361 750075 E-mail:mag@baliandbeyond.co.id http://www.baliandbeyond.co.id

Bali & Beyond Magazine is published monthly by PT. Bumi Dian Kusuma under the direction of MRA Media, Jakarta. Although every care is taken, neither the publishers nor any of their designees assume responsibility for the opinions and information expressed by editorial contributors. All material in this publication is copyrighted and cannot be reproduced without written permission of the publisher or author. All trademark and rights to Bali & Beyond are reserved by PT Bumi Dian Kusuma. Editorial materials may be submitted for consideration to the editorial office. Bali & Beyond is not responsible for the return of unsolicited material. © 2006 Bali & Beyond ISSN 0216-4590

A member of

Endorsed by

CONTRIBUTORS

BALI GOVERNMENT TOURISM OFFICE Jl. S. Parman, Niti Mandala Renon, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 222 387, 226 313 Fax: (0361) 226 313

www. skal.org skalbali@dps.centrin.net.id

Anggara Mahendra

Dewi Irma

Phil Green

is a Balinese photographer currently based in Jakarta.

He is working on personal documentary projects related to cultural, social, and environmental issues.

has a wide range of interests from fashion, art, design, music and food, to traveling.

She dreams of having a cafe & bar of her own in the future.

is an avid traveler and a keen golfer with a passion for photography. Browse his growing collection of photographs at baliphotoblog. smugmug.com

Katie Truman waved goodbye to her native England fifteen years ago and has been living in Southeast Asia as a freelance writer ever since.

She contributes to numerous international publications on her two big loves, Vietnam and Indonesia.

Brook Mitchell is an Australian travel and documentary photographer. His work has been published in numerous international publications, focusing on remote places and cultures.

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THE SUN... THE SAND... THE SURF... THE CULTURE OF PARADISE AND OVER 18,000 SURROUNDING ISLANDS

contents 01.15 JANUARY 2015 Volume 16 No. 176

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TRUNYAN’S ANCIENT MYTHOLOGY

THE MAGIC TOUCH

CRAFT&CULTURE

A special ceremony dedicated to ensuring village fertility and honoring Bali Mula mythology

INVITE&INDULGE

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Mind-blowing spiritual healing rituals at Fivelements in Ubud

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SIGHTS&SOUNDS

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PHOTOS & FUN FACTS

LIFESTYLE&LEISURE THE NEW MAESTROS

Modern Balinese art and where to find it in Ubud

Snapshots and quotes picked up throughout November and Decemcer

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LIFESTYLE&LEISURE

DINE&DELIGHTS A GRAND FEAST

Rijsttafel, a legacy left behind by the Dutch, showcases the rich variety of Indonesian cuisine

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A HINT OF THE ORIENT

The Peranakan heritage influences the Centara Grand Villas Nusa Dua, a refreshing new option in BTDC

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PROFILE&PORTRAIT

A DEEPER APPRECIATION

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MbatikYuuuk seeks to share batik knowledge with a greater audience, especially Indonesia’s youth

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18 NEW&NEWS

Hot deals and promotions of the month that shouldn’t be missed

This month’s select news updates from the island’s tourism industry and what’s new around the island

SHOPPINGSPREE COOL CASINGS

BatikGeek products make Indonesian art a part of urban life – a splurge we can really get behind!

70 BEYONDUPDATES News updates from the tourism industry and what’s new beyond Bali

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PONDERINGPOINT A MODERN AFFLICTION

Contemplating the pervasive use of smartphones…

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LITTLELOVES

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SEMINYAK’S NEWCOMERS Some of our favorite restaurants and hangouts that popped up in Seminyak in the 10 second half of 2014 BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2015

74 SEE&SEEN Snapshots of events and happenings within the preceding month

76 BALIMAPS Map of Bali showing specific tourism areas and places of interest, as well as a distance scale between the island’s main destinations

82 INFOINDEX Useful directory of companies and island-based businesses

FIRST COLUMN COURTESY OF FOUR SEASONS RESORT BALI AT SAYAN, SECOND COLUMN COURTESY OF FIVELEMENTS PURI AHIMSA, THIRD COLUMN COURTESY OF PADMA RESORT BALI

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THE SUN... THE SAND... THE SURF... THE CULTURE OF PARADISE AND OVER 18,000 SURROUNDING ISLANDS

contents 01.15 JANUARY 2015 Volume 16 No. 176

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60 BEYONDBALI

AIM & SHOOT!

The Bali Paintball Arena provides an ideal shooting range in the beautiful landscape of Ungasan’s limestone hill

A SURREAL SCENE Road trip, anyone? From Bali you can ‘pop over’ to East Java by car to visit the stunning Ijen Plateau

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CAPITALCORNER

THE DARLINGS OF JEWELRY DESIGN

These four talented Indonesian jewelry designers will blow you away with their creations 12

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TOP PHOTO BY PHIL GREEN BOTTOM PHOTO COURTESY OF BALI PAINTBALL ARENA

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ACTION&ATTRACTION

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PRIMEPROMOTION

MEET & GREET Although the Courtyard by Marriott Bali Seminyak attracts many leisure travelers, it also has ample facilities for hosting business travelers. The hotel offers 308 square meters of meeting spaces and a ballroom that fits up to 300 people, plus there’s currently a special running for a booking and stay period up to March 31. For groups of 20 or more, you can pay US$ 55 net per person and choose three out of 10 meeting perks available, including a massage corner during coffee breaks, five complimentary room upgrades, or triple Marriott Rewards points.

Courtyard by Marriott Bali Seminyak Jalan Camplung Tanduk No. 103 SP, Seminyak (0363) 849-9600 www.marriott.com

GO WITH THE FLOW Escape to East Bali and take advantage of Villa Flow’s new wellness packages that are inspired by Balinese healing rituals, organic cuisine, restorative yoga and meditation. As a start to the new year, try their ‘Spiritual Bali’ package that includes a Balinese Water Purification Ceremony, said to cleanse physical and emotional trauma from the body (three nights at US$ 675 net per person). Alternatively, visit the boutique hideaway in Karangasem for a detox, to do yoga, or to try the ‘East Bali Adventure’ package that includes mountain biking through rice fields, a sunrise hike, and scuba diving (five nights at US$ 1,599 net per person).

Villa Flow Bali West Seraya, Karangasem +62 81999454516, www.villaflowbali.com

Singapore Airlines Business Class customers can now enjoy the exquisite taste of the Prelude “Grands Crus” from Taittinger, made from the first pressings of an equal portion of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes selected from the best Grand Cru vineyards and aged for more than five years. Singapore Airlines is the only airline that serves the rare Grand Cru Red Burgundy and two prestige cuvées, Dom Perignon and Krug Grand Cuvee.

Some 194,000 bottles of champagne are consumed on Singapore Airlines flights annually. www.singaporeair.com

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ALL COURTESY PHOTOS

AIR BUBBLES

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PRIMEPROMOTION

ROYAL PACKAGE If you’re thinking of honeymooning in Ubud, consider Alaya Ubud’s exclusive Royal Package. It includes romantic perks such as a Nasi Raja dinner with special Balinese decorations and a 2.5 hour ‘Palace Ritual’ spa treatment, and on top of that there are cultural visits that will make your experience extra memorable. You’ll take a guided tour of the 17th century Peliatan Royal Palace, famous for its beautiful Legong Kraton Dance and gamelan, and have the chance to meet Bali’s internationally acclaimed stone carver I Wayan Winten (creator of the Dewa Ruci statue). The 3-day 2-night package is US$ 1,400++/couple and valid until March 31.

Alaya Ubud, Jalan Hanoman, Ubud (0361) 972-200, www.alayaubud.com

NEW IN JIMBARAN

BEAUTY SECRET Celebrating the 10th anniversary of Cellular Recovery Skin Bliss Capsules, Elemis has launched a limited edition package of two individual oversize jars, one pink (rose) and one green (lavender) of 60 capsules each, plus two mini travel pots perfect for when you are on the move.

This skincare product with aroma-therapeutic power makes for a great gift, which you can find in the Grand Nikko Bali’s Mandara Spa for Rp. 1,440,000 net.

Mandara Spa at Grand Nikko Bali Jalan Raya Nusa Dua Selatan, Nusa Dua (0361) 773-377, www.grandnikkobali.com

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ALL COURTESY PHOTOS

The quirky Fat Chow of Poppies Lane 2 in Kuta has opened a new branch in Jimbaran with a stunning view of Bali. Their tasty and non-pretentious menu of Asian comfort food is inspired by childhood favorites and street food, and the restaurant is currently offering a promo called ‘50 Days of Happiness’ where you can get 15% off your lunch (from 12 to 5 p.m.) by posting a photo of your meal on Facebook, Path or Instagram. This promo is valid until February 8 for minimum purchases of Rp. 100,000 (before tax).

Fat Chow Temple Hill Jalan Raya Uluwatu No. 8D, www.fatchowbali.com

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NEW&NEWS

MIX & MINGLE A new dining option on Legian Street is the De Basilico Kitchen and Bar located on the ground floor of THE 101 Bali Legian. Open daily from 5 p.m. to 11 p.m., the restaurant features an inviting rustic wooden interior and the space itself is divided into three parts – the main area with its open kitchen, a deck, and a bar. We think that young travelers in Kuta are really going to dig this new place.

De Basilico Kitchen and Bar Jalan Legian No. 117, Legian (0361) 300-1101, www.the101hotels.com

COMING SOON

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DOING THEIR PART In an effort to reduce its reliance on plastic water bottles, the Alila Villas Uluwatu now produces its own drinking water using a water purification system designed by Eco Pure Waters. Their large reverse osmosis plant is where filtration takes place, followed

by UV sterilization and mineralization before being poured into recyclable glass bottles. This initiative not only reduces plastic bottle consumption but also reduces carbon emissions generated from transporting bottled mineral water to the resort. Bravo!

Alila Villas Uluwatu Jalan Belimbing Sari, Pecatu (0361) 848-2166 www.alilahotels.com

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ALL COURTESY PHOTOS

The innovative hospitality group ARTOTEL Indonesia, known for boosting Indonesian contemporary artists by integrating their works into the interior design of their hotels, will be opening in Bali in 2015 after two successful locations in Jakarta and Surabaya.

Located on Jalan Kusuma Sari, the boutique hotel ARTOTEL Sanur, Bali will feature 89 rooms, a rooftop pool, a restaurant, a spa, meeting facilities for up to 200 people, and of course an art gallery.

The groundbreaking ceremony took place in December 2014 and the hotel is scheduled to open in late 2015. www.artotelindonesia.com

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NEW&NEWS

S.K.A.I.’S THE LIMIT Opening this month at Padma Bali is S.K.A.I. Beach Club (it stands for Sunset ‘Kocktail’ Alfresco Indulgence); a new place to enjoy designer cocktails, light bites and chill tunes from the live DJ while relishing the glow of the island’s beautiful sunset. The beach club features an edgy design from Singapore-based ARC22o2 Global Design Studio and is divided into indoor and outdoor areas with an infinity pool, cabanas and sun loungers that can accommodate up to 200 guests. We’re saying a hearty “Cheers!” to that.

S.K.A.I. at Padma Resort Bali Jalan Padma No. 1, Legian (0361) 752-111 www.padmaresortbali.com

FAMILY RECIPES

MEET IN UBUD SenS Hotel & Spa + Conference Ubud Town Centre opened in December 2014 with 91 rooms, 6 suites, and MICE facilities that can accommodate up to 300 people.

The hotel offers a team of event planners to assist you with your conference or event, and the location is very convenient – it is within walking distance from the Ubud Royal Palace, the Sacred Monkey Forest, museums, shops, cafés and bars.

SenS Hotel & Spa + Conference Ubud Town Centre Jalan Sukma, Ubud (0361) 849-3328 www.senshotelsresorts.com

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ALL COURTESY PHOTOS

Kafe Batan Waru has been delivering delicious Indonesian food to customers in Ubud for almost two decades, and now we can enjoy their food down south at their newly opened branch in the Lippo Mall, Kuta! They do things the old-fashioned way, grinding spice paste with a mortar and pestle and freshly pressing their coconut milk. Their heirloom rice, herbs, vegetables and fruit come from local farmers and much of it is grown in the rich volcanic soil of organic farms in Kintamani. When you visit, don’t forget to order a delicious cup of Kintamani coffee to go with whatever it is you choose from their menu of local and international dishes!

Kafe Batan Waru at Lippo Mall, Kuta Jalan Kartika Plaza, Kuta (0361) 897-8074 www.batanwaru.com

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CRAFT&CULTURE

TRUNYAN’S ANCIENT MYTHOLOGY WE TAKE A LOOK AT A SPECIAL CEREMONY HONORING BALI MULA MYTHOLOGY, WHICH IS DEDICATED TO ENSURING FERTILITY FOR THE VILLAGE’S INHABITANTS. believed to be the ancestors of the Trunyan people.

In Trunyan mythology Ratu Ayu Pingit Dalem Dasar was the daughter of a goddess who had descended to the earth and was impregnated by the god of the sun. She married Ratu Sakti Pancering Jagat (or Betara Da Tonta), the eldest son of King Dalem Solo. Betara Da Tonta is considered to be a manifestation of Sang Hyang Widhi Wasa (God Almighty).

The Barong Brutuk performance is a form of worship to their supreme god Betara Da Tonta and is dedicated to increasing fertility in the Trunyan village.

T

ADOLESCENT DANCERS runyan is a village

October 2014 was an auspicious

The holy Barong Brutuk performance

located in the crater

time for the Bali Mula to hold the

is a dance by adolescent Trunyan

area of Mount Batur that

Saba Gede temple ceremony for

boys who are first quarantined for

is inhabited by the Bali

their gods. The celebration was

42 days, during which time they are

Mula. The Bali Mula are

held for one month, ending with the

not allowed to consume alcoholic

Barong Brutuk performance. Brutuk is

drinks, gamble or date. They stay in

believe their ancestors descended

derived from the words baru tuwuk,

quarters called bangsal pekemitan

directly from heaven, while the

meaning ‘to meet.’ This performance

that are built specifically for the

ancestors of the mainland Balinese

symbolizes the meeting between

Kapat Lanang ceremony.

migrated from Java bringing

Ratu Ayu Pingit Dalem Dasar and

Majapahit Hindusim to the island.

Ratu Sakti Pancering Jagat, who are

the original inhabitants of Bali who

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Prior to their performance, the youth take off their normal clothes

and are dressed by the pedulu (traditional village council members).

A loincloth made of new fabric is put on them and two sheets of selibah made from dried banana trunk skin are slung over the upper part of their body. Then strings of dried banana leaves or keraras – the main material of the Barong Brutuk costume – are attached to the selibah.

Afterwards, the dancers are covered with wet powder – a mixture of white clay, turmeric, rice powder and fragrant oil. They carry 7 meter-long whips and wear masks representing the gods in Trunyan mythology – Betara Da Tonta and his

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queen Ratu Ayu Pingit Dalem Dasar,

WHIP LASHES AS A ‘CURE’ When the dancers enter the open stage in the outer part of the Pancering Jagat Village Temple (built in 10th century AD or 833 Çaka according to the Balinese calendar), the audience shouts out, “Meriki tu,

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PHOTOS BY ANGGARA MAHENDRA

as well as his ministers and guards.

AT THE PANCERING JAGAT VILLAGE TEMPLE (BUILT IN 10TH CENTURY AD OR 833 ÇAKA ACCORDING TO THE BALINESE CALENDAR) THE AUDIENCE SHOUTS OUT, “MERIKI TU, MERIKI” MEANING “COME HERE PLEASE, COME HERE,” WHICH IS THEN ANSWERED

BY THE BARONG BRUTUK WITH WHIPPING

meriki” meaning “Come here please,

At the end of the performance the

come here,” which is then answered

Barong Brutuk dancers perform the

by the Barong Brutuk with whipping.

metambak procession, which is a

remaining unmarried for the rest of their lives.

At the end of the performance

love scene between Betara Da Tonta

both characters embrace, then

a method to ensure fertility. Some

and Ratu Ayu Pingit Dalem Dasar.

dressed only in their loincloths, they

women make offerings in the form of

This final scene is considered to be

run into the lake to bathe and purify

sesari (donation money), cigarettes or

very important because it determines

themselves. Before leaving the lake

energy drinks for the Barong Brutuk,

the fertility of the universe and all

there is a small selamatan ceremony

and then tear a little piece off of the

its contents. If this scene fails, it is

done to return the masks to their

keraras leaves worn by the Barong

believed that the dancers will

large bamboo basket.

Brutuk to be used as a talisman.

suffer the unfortunate fate of

By Dewa Ayu Eka Putri

The whipping is believed to be

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LIFESTYLE&LEISURE

THE NEW MAESTROS

By Joseph Wang

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A LOOK AT MODERN BALINESE ART AND WHERE TO FIND IT AMONG THE MANY GALLERIES IN UBUD.

T

he people of Bali are

(16th to 20th century) during the

known for their strong art

time of the Klungkung Kingdom

sense, and the beauty of

when art was primarily meant for

the Balinese landscape

ceremonial purposes. The classical

along with the rich culture

‘Kamasan’ painting style usually

make for plenty of painting subjects.

Ubud, with its royal palaces and

depicts the epics of Mahabharata and Ramayana. It has very strict

grand temples, has been considered

guidelines and was normally

the center of Bali’s art scene for

drawn on cloth or bark paper using

centuries. It is not surprising that

natural dyes.

modern Balinese art blossomed

When artists such as Walter

here first.

Spies, Rudolf Bonnet, Arie Smit and

Prior to the era of modern Balinese art (early 20th century

Adrian-Jean Le Mayeur came to

until now) was the classical era

started to modernize the art form.

Bali in the early 20th century, they

Clockwise from far left: Artwork by I Ketut Soki (Neka Art Museum), I Nyoman Meja and I Ketut Budiana (Museum Puri Lukisan)

Story has it that in the early 60’s, Arie Smit saw two boys drawing in the sand when he was taking a walk in Penestanan village in Ubud. Amazed by their talent, he encouraged them to create by giving them paper and paint.

Arie Smit never made any suggestions regarding the subjects or colors they chose, being very careful not to interfere with their artistic interpretation, nor did he allow the boys to see his paintings.

This resulted in childlike paintings

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on canvas with bright colors

the oldest art museum in Bali. Their

and less details – still very much

first collection consisted of paintings

Balinese but with day-to-day life and

donated by Rudolf Bonnet along with

scenery as the subjects. This is what

other artists and friends who wanted

eventually led up to the ‘Young Artist

to help the museum.

movement’.

Located near the Ubud Palace

Notable artists of this movement

and the Ubud Art Market, this

include I Ketut Soki, I Ketut Tagen,

museum is comprised of three

and I Wayan Pugur, just to name a

main buildings that surround a

few. Their paintings can be found

serene lotus pond and manicured

at the Museum Puri Lukisan and the

gardens. The Pitamaha Gallery is

Neka Art Museum.

dedicated to ‘modern-traditional’ Balinese paintings (1930-1945)

MUSEUM PURI LUKISAN

while the Ida Bagus Made Gallery

Open since January 31, 1956, the

paintings from 1945 to the present

Museum Puri Lukisan is officially

day. The third building is the

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houses ‘modern-traditional’ Balinese

Wayang Gallery, which is used for

parking lot for its visitors.

Aside from the paintings of

shadow puppets and temporary exhibitions.

Indonesian artists, this museum Museum Puri Lukisan

also houses the works of foreign

Jalan Raya Ubud, Ubud

artists who resided in Indonesia such

person while children under 12 enter

(0361) 971-159

as Arie Smit, Rudolf Bonnet, Antonio

for free (this arrangement does not

www.museumpurilukisan.com

Blanco and Miguel Covarrubias.

Tickets are Rp. 50,000 per

apply to groups). The museum is open daily from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. except for the Balinese holidays of Nyepi, Galungan and Kuningan.

Museum Puri Lukisan also offers a wide range of art workshops, gamelan classes, and shadow puppet making classes that are a separate package from the admission fee. And quite conveniently, there is a spacious

Clockwise from far left: A row of sacred keris, the entrance to the Neka Art Museum, a painting by I Ketut Tagen at the Neka Art Museum

NEKA ART MUSEUM

The museum is open on

This art museum was built in 1982

Monday to Saturday from 9 a.m. to

and currently houses up to 300

5 p.m. and on Sunday from noon

artworks. The Neka Art Museum

until 5 p.m., but closed on public

not only has paintings but also a

holidays. The admission fee for

collection of keris or Indonesian

adults is Rp. 50,000

traditional daggers, some of which

while children under 12 enter

are so sacred that they have a

for free. After making your way

dedicated exhibition room.

through the museum, you can also

The Neka Art Museum is arranged to showcase the

Campuhan Valley prior to heading

development of Balinese paintings.

home. „

If you follow the recommended route, the exhibition will start

Neka Art Museum

with Kamasan style paintings and

Jalan Raya Campuhan, Ubud

continue to the more modern styles

(0361) 975-074

of Balinese paintings.

www.museumneka.com

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PHOTOS BY JOSEPH WANG

enjoy the view of the beautiful

DINE&DELIGHTS The jungle serves as the perfect backdrop for your rijsttafel dinner

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A GRAND FEAST

RIJSTTAFEL, A LEGACY LEFT BEHIND BY THE DUTCH, SHOWCASES THE RICH VARIETY OF INDONESIAN CUISINE AND CAN ONLY BE FOUND IN SELECT RESTAURANTS THESE DAYS.

By Joseph Wang

T

he Indonesian

because it is a reminder of the Dutch

beef dendeng and serapah cumi,

archipelago spans over

colonial times. However, there are a

or Kalimantan calamari stuffed

5,000 kilometers along

number of fine dining establishments

with minced fish and served with

the equator, and being

that offer this experience in Bali

curry sauce. The experience then

rich in spices it has seen

and we’ve listed a few of the most

concludes with three choices of

a number of European countries on its soil since the 16th century.

outstanding ones here for you.

desserts – pandan and kopyor ice

These same spices are what make

AYUNG TERRACE

the food culture in Indonesia so

If your accommodations are located

unique, and it varies incredibly from

outside of the Ubud area, it is worth

the former First Lady of Indonesia

region to region.

it to travel to Ubud just to enjoy the

Ani Yudhoyono to serve to state

cream, layered rice cake and klepet bugis.

This rijsttafel was selected by

sheer beauty of the Four Seasons

guests during the APEC conference

AN INTRICATE FEAST

Resort Bali at Sayan. Add to that

in Bali in October 2013, and you

Rijsttafel, literary translated as

an exquisite rijsttafel dinner and

too can experience it on Monday

‘rice table’, is a tradition dating

the resort’s signature warm service,

evenings for Rp. 630,000++ per

back to Dutch colonial times where

and you’ve got the recipe for a most

person (reservations are essential).

numerous Indonesian dishes would

lovely night out.

As a tip for outside guests, come

be presented during one meal.

Their rijsttafel dinner is served at

early (around 6 p.m.) to catch

Back then it was not unheard of to

the Ayung Terrace and starts with

the Balinese dances that are held

serve up to 40 types of dishes, with

delicious homemade prawn and

at the Jati Bar, and performed by

every bowl presented by a different

cassava crackers and a plate of

members of the local community in

Indonesian server. The feast was

small appetizers. This is followed by

front of a gorgeous backdrop of

aimed to showcase the richness of

prawn soup and a selection of white,

jungle foliage.

Indonesian dishes, the textures, the

brown or yellow rice. Soon after,

flavors and all the different spices

a number of dishes are delivered

Four Seasons Resort Bali at Sayan

that Indonesian soil has to offer.

consecutively to your table and you

Jalan Raya Sayan, Ubud

will be asked whether you would

(0361) 977-577

like to sample them, including crispy

www.fourseasons.com/sayan

These days, rijsttafel is not so easily found in Indonesia, partly

BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2015

31

the taliwang chicken and grilled konro are particular standouts. The meal of course comes with a side of rice and sambal, and there is also a dedicated cracker station with an assortment of Indonesian crackers to choose from.

Dessert is also served on a dulang, and you’ll have the opportunity to sample es campur and lumpia pisang as well as six other options. Civet coffee or kopi

DULANG RESTAURANT

can also look forward to The St.

luwak and Balinese brem (a type of

Located amidst lush tropical gardens,

Regis’ signature bespoke service.

local rice wine) are also included in

The rijsttafel starts with jamu,

the experience. At Rp. 595,000 nett

Bali Resort’s dedicated rijsttafel

a traditional drink made from

per person, Dulang offers a meal fit

restaurant that is open only for

turmeric, tamarind and honey,

for a king indeed.

dinner. The secluded and romantic

and continues with oxtail soup.

setting includes a hand-painted floor

Afterwards, a dulang (a large plate

The St. Regis Bali Resort

and a wooden pavilion reminiscent

used in the past to serve kings and

BTDC Lot S6, Nusa Dua

of colonial days long gone by. Aside

queens) with eight different dishes

(0361) 847-8111

from the best Indonesian dishes you

is brought out, and of those dishes

www.stregisbali.com

32

BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2015

ALL PHOTOS COURTESY

the Dulang restaurant is The St. Regis

LONG RICE TABLE Located in Kuta, The Stones Hotel – Legian Bali, Autograph Collection, offers a quiet environment in the middle of a busy neighborhood.

This hotel serves rijsttafel for dinner at its Indonesian restaurant called the Long Rice Table. This modern contemporary restaurant is actually where the hotel serves breakfast to in-house guests every morning, but it transforms into a completely different setting once dinnertime rolls around.

The rijsttafel starts with Jakarta beef and coconut soup followed by eight kinds of Indonesian dishes served on a small plate (including beef rendang, voted ‘The World’s

Most Delicious Food’ by CNNGo readers in 2011), as well as condiments, white rice and yellow rice. This is followed by three choices of dessert, including grilled cassava with shredded coconut, and The Stones’ special blend of coffee or tea. For Rp. 580,000++ for two persons, this is an experience not to be missed.

The Stones Hotel Legian Jalan Raya Pantai Kuta, Legian (0361) 300-5888 www.marriott.com

BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2015

33

34

BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2015

BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2015

35

PROFILE&PORTRAIT

A DEEPER UNDERSTANDING WE CHAT WITH INDRA TJAHJANI, THE FOUNDER OF MBATIKYUUUK, ABOUT THE MEANING BEHIND BATIK PATTERNS AND HER MISSION TO SHARE BATIK KNOWLEDGE WITH INDONESIA’S YOUTH.

more about batik can attend my workshops. We’ve had a four yearold child and even a 72 year-old man. Aside from students, employees of multinational companies such as Total Oil, Exxon Mobil, Nestle and General Electric have participated, as well as the Canadian Embassy and students of Fashion & Business at Queensland University of Technology.

BB: Please tell us about your most memorable MbatikYuuuk experience.

IT: I think seeing with my own eyes the batik artists making handwritten batik in the village… It is amazing what they do and how patient they are. I believe that batik-ing is a kind of meditation process.

BB: What is unique about batik canting?

IT: Before I answer that, I want to tell you that ‘to batik’ is to make patterns using malam, or wax, and a tool that’s called canting. If the process is without malam, it should not be called batik. No batik canting piece

Bali & Beyond (BB): Could you share

‘Griya Peni – Mbatik Yuuuk’ with

Similar yes, but not the exact same

with our readers how ‘MbatikYuuuk’

the mission of teaching the young

pattern. These subtle differences

came to be?

generation about the wonders

are what make batik canting pieces

Indra Tjahjani (IT): It started in

of Indonesian cultural heritage,

unique.

2000 – many of my students did

especially batik.

not know enough about Indonesian

BB: What is your favorite batik

culture to do their assignments, so I

BB: Who usually attends your

pattern and why?

decided to introduce them to various

workshops? Is it mainly students or

IT: It is hard to choose just one

aspects of our cultural heritage. From

do organizations participate as well?

because each batik pattern has a

October 2008 I named our activities

IT: Anyone who is interested to know

different philosophy. ‘Kart Jagad’

36

BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2015

PHOTOS COURTESY OF MBATIKYUUUK

can be 100% the same as another.

1

appearances and the meaning

the Royal Family, but if you browse

behind them?

the Internet you’ll find that celebrity

IT: The pattern worn during the

Jessica Alba has worn a modern

President’s meeting with Tony Abbott

dress with this pattern. Also, some

is a classic Solo pattern called

people do not realize that certain

‘Pisan Bali,’ 2 and the meaning

patterns need to be facing up. In the

behind it is ‘If you’ve already

‘Wahyu Tumurun’ pattern the crown

received an opportunity hopefully

should be facing up, and for the

you will get more and more.’

‘Semen Romo’ pattern the Garuda

Another pattern worn recently is

wing has to be facing up because

the classic Cirebon pattern ‘Singa

birds always fly towards the sky.

Barong,’ 3 with the meaning ‘We

The same goes for the ‘Sido Mukti,’

shall always win/be strong/be

‘Sido Mulyo’ and ‘Sido Luhur’

glorious in the sea (the head of

patterns.

elephant), on land (the lion body)

3

and in the sky (the Garuda wing).’ or sometimes referred to as ‘Sekar Jagad’ has the meaning ‘May you

BB: Many companies in Indonesia

conquer the world.’ Amazing isn’t

require their employees to wear

it? 1 I love this pattern because

batik on specified days, like on

it’s in line with my wish to travel

Friday. Do you think this has helped

the world introducing people to

to spread appreciation for batik?

Indonesian culture… Who knows,

IT: I believe it’s a start to ask

one day someone might be willing to

Indonesian people to appreciate

be my sponsor!

their own culture, and of course I hope this requirement later

BB: What are your recommendations

BB: What can you tell us about the

pushes people to invest in better

for our readers who would like to

batik patterns that President Joko

quality batik.

learn more about Indonesian batik?

IT: If you want to know more

Widodo has been wearing at public 2

BB: Is there any wrong way to

about Indonesian cultural heritage,

wear batik?

especially batik, you should

IT: Yes, as many people do not

experience making batik but also

know that certain patterns have

learn about the meaning behind

special meanings and have

each pattern. We love to share and

been designed for people of a

can arrange private classes. Please

certain rank, like for the Sultan

visit our website www.mbatikyuuuk.

of Yogyakarta or for the Royal

com. I’ve also written a book called

Family. These are called ‘larangan’

‘Yuk, Mbatik!’ that is available at

patterns, or prohibited patterns.

Gramedia bookstores, but it is in

For example, the ‘Parang Barong’

Bahasa Indonesia.

pattern is actually meant only for

By Mutia Adisoma

BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2015

37

IF YOU FAVOR INCONSPICUOUS OR PLAIN SMARTPHONE CASES, YOU MIGHT CHANGE YOUR MIND AFTER SEEING THE ONES MADE BY BATIKGEEK.

B

rowsing through the

trees, needing just a few years to be

numerous stalls at the recent

harvested while other trees require tens

LocalTaste fair at Lippo Mall

of years.”

Kemang (Jakarta), I found a plethora of goods made with

Product specifications

love by aspiring local designers, from trendy

• Made from high quality bamboo

platform shoes to Herschel-esque backpacks to

• Engraved artwork with excellent detail

intricate handmade jewelry. I also came across a gem

• Eco-friendly

of a brand based out of Bandung (in West Java) called

• Easy access to device buttons

BatikGeek, which makes unique smartphone cases out of bamboo and I thought, “What a perfect fit for our

Price

January edition theme!”

Rp. 350,000 – 380,000 for smartphones In the words of the

Rp. 420,000 – 500,000 for tablets

BatikGeek founders:

Available for

“We are passionate

• Apple iPhone 4, 4s, 5, 5s, 6, 6

about gadgets and batik.

Plus, iPad Mini

We wanted to make

• Samsung Galaxy S4, S5, Note

Indonesian local art a

1, Note 2, Note 3

part of the life of urban

• Sony Xperia Z1, LG Nexus 5

dwellers, most of who

(Google Nexus 5)

cannot be separated from As of now they don’t have any

their handheld gadgets.

brick-and-mortar shops, but

We provide gadget accessories with Indonesian artwork made by local artists, and the patterns and illustrations

you can order online and they can ship anywhere in

we offer are a contemporary version of Indonesian

Indonesia and even internationally! For customers in

heritage. In our design process we paid close attention

Bandung, there is even the option of COD (Cash on

to the philosophy and heritage values, then combined

Delivery).

them with a ‘pop’ style design. And we chose bamboo

By Mutia Adisoma

because it’s eco-friendly and it grows faster than other BatikGeek +62 85641333258 / 85642086262 www.batikgeek.com Twitter / Instagram @batikgeek

38

BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2015

PHOTOS COURTESY OF BATIKGEEK

SHOPPINGSPREE

COOL CASINGS

BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2015

39

INVITE&INDULGE

THE MAGIC TOUCH

CONTRIBUTOR KATIE TRUMAN DISCOVERS MIND-BLOWING SPIRITUAL HEALING RITUALS IN UBUD.

Y

ou go to the dentist to

A HEALING HOTEL

designed grounds amidst Mambal’s

get your teeth fixed, to

One of Bali’s two Healing Hotels of

rain-forested hills, practically induces

the salon to get waxed

the World, Fivelements is founded

regeneration and spiritual harmony.

and to the doctor

on deeply rooted Balinese traditions

for health problems,

and eco-conscious principals,

is ‘Healing Rituals,’ administered

but where do you go for heavy-

nurturing the body, mind and spirit

by authentic native healers using

duty healing and spiritual ‘spring

with ancient Balinese rituals and

ancient wisdom passed down

cleaning’? The answer to that would

therapies, healing practices, gourmet

through generations of Balinese

be to the Fivelements Puri Ahimsa in

vegan foods and sacred arts. Even

families and engaging the help of

Ubud, or more specifically, to Pak

the setting, a rustic (albeit luxurious)

higher divine sources while following

Wayan.

retreat on sacred Balinese Vastu-

indigenous Sekala-Niskala principals

40

BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2015

Award-winning Fivelements’ forte

(parallel conscious and psychic

everything on Fivelement’s healing

worlds). Healing Rituals combines

and spa menu, took place in one of

meditation, deep body work and

their private healing huts along the

Prana energy, but ‘Healing Energy’

banks of the Ayung River, with semi-

is their heavy-duty signature that

open bathtubs crafted in polished

provides out-of-world experiences

bamboo, reclaimed wood and spiral

with spiritual healing and cleansing.

thatched roofs. In a pre-session

This includes ‘Chakra Balancing,’

consultation I revealed that I sensed

which re-activates and balances

there was bad energy within me

the body’s seven energy centers

and needed it taken out. Then I lied

(Chakras) and ‘Prana Healing,’

motionless with my eyes closed

which scans and clears the aura

on a low-level bed, consumed in

of any imbalances. However, for

swirling incense.

the two sessions I experienced at

After initial prayers, meditation

Fivelements, I opted for the mind-

and a spine-tingling “Ohmmm,” Pak

blowing and powerful Panca

Wayan got to work balancing my

Mahabhuta or ‘Five Elements’

body’s five elements (or microcosm,

(Rp. 1,250,000++), where for 90

buana alit) then channeled a

minutes local healer Pak Wayan

connection with the universe’s five

AN ‘UPLIFTING’ EXPERIENCE

balanced the five elements of earth,

elements (or macrocosm, buana

Succumbing to a deep trance and

water, fire, air and ether within the

agung), uniting them to create an

what sounded to my ears like Native

body as well as cleared unhealthy

almighty harmony. Passing his

American chanting, I could feel the

energy originating from emotional

hands over my body, he looked to

young healer physically shake as he

and mental burdens and physical

locate and clear out all unhealthy

clasped his hands on my head and

demons. Just what the doctor

emotional, physical and mental bad

upper body.

ordered!

energy that had accumulated.

It was an uplifting experience

IT’S ALL ELEMENTARY Rewind to my first session three years ago: My first impression of Pak Wayan was that he not only looked alarmingly young for a healer, but was also a tad ‘too handsome’. I was assured he was the real-deal – almost priest-like, as he was initiated into energy healing by his father at an early age and is a native of Nusa Penida, a small island off Bali’s southern coast renowned for its gifted healers.

My customized treatment, like

BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2015

41

Pak Wayan balances the five elements of earth, water, fire, air and ether within the body as well as clears unhealthy energy from emotional and mental burdens and physical demons.

jolt was the precise moment the bad

out of a deep slumber maybe half

energy flew out of my body.

and don’t think too much.

breath and suddenly jolted upwards,

nervously enquired. Pak Wayan

A POWERFUL ENERGY

before landing back on the bed,

hesitated, shooting me a half-

Fast forward to late 2014 when I

re-awakened – literally – in every

smile, and confirmed, “Yes,

booked another session with the

sense. During the post-session

you’re balanced.” He also offered

same healer, but this time apart

consultation, Pak Wayan informed

suggestions related to my health and

from the usual proceedings, things

me via a translator that my sudden

well-being: stretch more, meditate

were different. Pak Wayan’s English

an hour in, I took a sharp intake of

“But am I balanced now?” I

42

BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2015

PHOTOS COURTESY OF FIVELEMENTS

in more ways than one. As if lulled

heating up like a Korean barbecue; my toes felt almost aflame.

Post-session (sipping on ginger tea), Pak Wayan disclosed that he hadn’t detected any bad energy but had helped to improve my blood circulation. Again he advised, “Stretch more, meditate and don’t think so much.”

Oh, and he also opened up all my Chakras. I left feeling spiritually rejuvenated and primed for anything. And what a feeling to have – in this fast-paced and had dramatically improved so there

running blood circulation problem.

competitive world, it’s vitally

was no need for a translator, and I

After silent bouts of meditation, Pak

important to have all your Chakras

noticed that he smiled more.

Wayan latched onto the ailment and

open.

while chanting, redirected my blood

By Katie Truman

Three years later I didn’t think there was any bad energy lurking about but asked him to check

flow like a traffic policeman.

Fivelements Puri Ahimsa

I felt his powerful energy

anyway, remarking, “I’m sure you’ll

channeling through my chest so

Banjar Baturning, Mambal

find lots of other stuff.” And find

strongly that the blood felt like it

(0361) 469-206

stuff he did, including my long-

was hurtling around my body and

www.fivelements.org

BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2015

43

ck at SKY. The from the wedding de Late afternoon scene but apparently it’s g, win sho this in for green canopy was put d Spa Bali). (at AYANA Resort an available on request

Many of the employees at the John Hardy workshop carve the handles of their own hand tools. There’s just so much creativity flowing abou t there.

Yogi… é in Ubud called Frozen Found this sign at a caf m! there’s truth to the sarcas

t Ponco Setyohadi’s We attended the opening for artis had no idea he would and ’ ation sform Tran exhibition ‘My there would be dancers and be live painting in water, or that at the Le Méridien Bali bited live musicians! His art was exhi Jimbaran until Dec 26.

44

BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2015

PONCO SETYOHADI AND SKY PHOTOS BY MUTIA ADISOMA, ALL OTHERS BY JOSEPH WANG

SIGHTS&SOUNDS

Our cork board of photos, quotes and fun facts that we picked up while exploring in November and December...

Follow us on Instagram!

Calling all Instagram lov ers! Did you know we have an Instagram account? Fol low @baliandbeyondm agazine for vibrant photos from our magazine and unp ublished snapshots from our tea m!

d at the Grand party we attende Snapped this at a dedicated urse there was a Hyatt Bali. Of co mbal – we sa d an ers ck d cra station for assorte them! can’t live without Indonesians just

We love the bright and spacious interior at Hbsejo, next to Mirror (Petitenget Street).

Our snapshot of the new Seminyak club Mirror. It is equa lly, if not more, im pressive at night.

BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2015

45

REST&RELAXATION

A HINT OF THE ORIENT

T

he first of Thailand’s

intimate villa property. It’s an ideal

and three-bedroom pool villas. Upon

Centara brand in Bali,

option for those craving a quiet

pushing open the wooden double

the Centara Grand Villas

escape from the day-to-day demands

doors of a One Bedroom Luxury Pool

Nusa Dua officially

of their profession, and especially

Villa, you’ll instantly breathe a sigh

opened in August 2014

nice for couples who are looking to

of relief as you’re greeted by the

spend quality time together.

view of open space.

in the exclusive BTDC enclave of Nusa Dua. With just 14 pool villas

Boasting 225 square meters of

that are tucked away in tropical

ROOM TO BREATHE

living space, the villa has an outdoor

gardens, at times it can feel as

The walkway is flanked by lush

area with an open-air kitchen

though you are the only guest at this

gardens and leads to the one, two

and table, a pool with a waterfall

46

BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2015

TABLE DETAIL PHOTO BY MUTIA ADISOMA ALL OTHERS COURTESY OF CENTARA

THE ‘PERANAKAN’ HERITAGE INFLUENCES THE NEW CENTARA GRAND VILLAS NUSA DUA, A REFRESHING OPTION FOR THOSE LOOKING FOR A UNIQUE AND SURPRISINGLY ROMANTIC VILLA.

feature, two loungers and a sundeck,

Pool Villas are perfect for families

perfect for laying out or doing a bit

and groups of up to four adults and

of yoga. Glass doors lead to the

three children, while the resort’s

sleeping quarters where a plush

one and only Three Bedroom Luxury

bed, a desk, and ample seating for

Pool Villa provides over 680 square

reading and lounging await.

meters of living space and can

Most notable perhaps is the

accommodate up to six adults and

bathroom, located partly indoors

two children. All villas are designed

but with doors that open up to an

with Peranakan accents per the

impossibly romantic outdoor bathing

special request of the villa property

area with a shower and a circular

owners.

freestanding bathtub, which can be sealed off with sheer white curtains

PERANAKAN STYLE

or left open to enjoy the view of the

It is quite rare to find

pool’s waterfall. As an added bonus,

accommodations that pay homage

the bathroom amenities are all from

to Indonesia’s Peranakan history – a

Salvatore Ferragamo.

blend of Chinese and Indonesian

The larger Two Bedroom Luxury

culture that came about in the 15th

BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2015

47

to 17th centuries when Chinese immigrants settled in the Indonesian

paintings of misty mountain scenes.

Their spa also honors this history

archipelago. However, the Centara

with their signature treatment

Grand Villas Nusa Dua does so

‘The Peranakan Heritage’. The

by showcasing beautiful teak and

experience begins with a ‘Malay

rosewood furnishings (some with

Lulur’ scrub of ground rice, turmeric,

intricate carved detailing), bronze

nutmeg and galangal, and continues

accessories on the walls, antique

with a bath in lemon verbena

wooden sculptures, and gold leaf

floral tea (a Chinese remedy for

48

BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2015

eradicating negative energy that is traditionally done during New Year’s to promote good health).

The finale to this treatment is the ‘Urut Melayu’ massage, which uses fragrant rose oils to promote relaxation, followed by an organic mulberry facial pouch to impart cooling energy.

Also not to miss is their Ru Yi restaurant with its delicious menu of mainland China and Hong Kong cuisine. Their ‘Discovery Menu’ (Rp. 288,000++/person) comes highly recommended with seven courses for you to discover, including delicious

fried prawns cooked in salted egg and adventurous delicacies with intriguing textures like their spicy jellyfish. Spa Cenvaree and the Ru Yi restaurant are open to both in-house and outside guests.

Although Centara is not beach front, it does have a complimentary shuttle that can take guests to Nusa Dua Beach where the resort has its own beach club. Compared to some other BTDC properties Centara Grand Villas Nusa Dua may be small, but their warm hospitality and homey atmosphere are a welcome addition to the neighborhood.

By Mutia Adisoma Centara Grand Villas Nusa Dua BTDC Lot NW 2 & 3, Nusa Dua (0361) 773-300 www.centarahotelsresorts.com

BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2015

49

PONDERINGPOINT

A MODERN AFFLICTION

commended her on “how well she had done” as if we

CONTRIBUTOR KATIE TRUMAN CONTEMPLATES THE PERVASIVE USE OF SMARTPHONES… WHILE BEGGING US ALL TO PLEASE, LOOK UP!

assertion of power, i.e. Look how important I am, I must

M

had just weaned her off a life threatening addiction.

In some cases, smartphone misuse is like a modern check my messages because I’m indispensable at my job, or, Look at me, I’m so popular within my social network. True, some people are company big shots or in the first flush of love, making it necessary to obsessively check messages. But surely not all of us are dictated to

aybe it’s because I’m old-school British and was taught that good

by Wall Street or by our hearts!

If we think it’s bad in Indonesia, it seems to be the

grace, manners and conversation

same sad story elsewhere (although I’ve heard that the

are of paramount importance,

unfailingly polite Japanese keep their phones turned off

but I suspect that people half my

and in their bags when out in company).

age from anywhere in the world would agree that it

In Sydney I noticed school friends congregating

is a scary addiction to always be looking down at

at Starbucks and other locales, sitting together yet

smartphone screens.

completely emotionally detached as they were wrapped

As magical as this tropical island can be, it is

up in their cyber pals and not their real ones.

unfortunately not immune to this modern scourge. The

In Singapore I find myself constantly tripping over

overuse of smartphones and slavish obsession with

or bumping into Singaporeans looking down at their

checking emails, text messages, Twitter, Instagram and

screens while walking around town. It beats me why

Facebook is definitely prevalent here as well. Social

there aren’t more accidents or cases of people falling

media? More like anti-social media!

down potholes (but then I remember, Singapore doesn’t

On numerous occasions I’ve seen couples on dinner dates with both looking down at their screens rather than

have potholes).

As for checking messages just before take-off or

gazing into each other’s eyes or at the stunning sunset,

nanoseconds after the airplane lands, don’t get me

and groups of friends out at parties, social gatherings

started! No, no, don’t worry about passenger safety,

or fashion shows all checking their messages. I assume

your latest messages are far more important…

they are doing so to contact more friends, but it makes

I’m incredulous that people want to live their lives

me wonder whether they are not happy with the ones

missing out on the art of conversation, friendship or a

already with them.

handsome stranger’s face, especially in a place that

On one occasion, I visited a professional healer who

emanates natural beauty like Bali. However, I must

checked their phone while simultaneously concluding

confess that I’ve craftily learned to use this modern

my healing session with the prognosis. And worse,

affliction to my own advantage in sticky situations.

a businessman suitor continually flicked through his

In my regular scenario of getting lost in Singapore,

messages while I was revealing my life story on our first

when I frantically approach locals on the street for

date (that was a complete no-no… Next!).

directions, they’ll kindly turn to their smartphones to

A friend of mine has the unfortunate habit of cutting

locate my destination quicker than I can say “Where

me off mid-sentence to obsessively check work messages

is it?” And when I am flying solo at a Bali function or

or even arrange her work schedule while I sit opposite

waiting on someone who is running very late, I put my

her in increasingly frustrated silence. I recently invited this

head down too, pretending to be deep in message

pal to accompany me on an upscale restaurant review

land. I’ve found this helps to stave off boredom, or any

on the condition that she keep her phone switched off

anticipated looks of pity.

and in her bag, and after she successfully managed this task (surprising me, but even more, herself) I ridiculously

50

Well, if you can’t beat ‘em, might as well join ‘em.

By Katie Truman

BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2015

BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2015

51

LITTLELOVES

SEMINYAK’S NEWCOMERS CONTRIBUTOR ARIKO AHMAD HAS ZIGZAGGED AROUND TOWN ON HIS SCOOTER TO CHECK OUT THE NEWCOMERS IN SEMINYAK AND SHARE HIS FAVORITES WITH YOU.

Gardin’s signature Lamb Rack cooked to perfect tenderness

52

BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2015

I

t seemed as though new restaurants and hangouts were popping up almost weekly in Seminyak during the second half of 2014. So much so that it

can be hard to decide which ones to try first or where to start.

For those who need some help, I’ve compiled a handful that really stood out for me. I’ve even taken

Delicious options from Sisterfield’s menu

the liberty of matching each place to a likely situation you might find

restaurant and club combo offers a

gin-based cocktail featuring a mix

yourself in while in Bali. So if

unique experience where culinary

of cucumber, mint and zesty lemon.

you need a brunch nook, a cozy

treats meet sophistication and fun.

Another Gardin cocktail worth

hangout, a place for pre-drinks or a

The Gardin restaurant presents a

mentioning is their Irish Tiramisu

table for two, I’ve got you covered!

wide range of delectable Indonesian

(Rp. 125,000++), a sweet but lethal

and European dishes that are simple

concoction of Bailey’s Irish cream,

FOR PRE-DRINKS & DANCING

but presented with a unique twist.

Kahlua peanut liqueur and vanilla

If you find yourself in a situation

their signature Lamb Rack (Rp.

where you want to have dinner and

228,000++), which is cooked to

for a night of partying, all you need

pre-drinks before hitting a club but

perfect tenderness. It comes with

to do is head to the back of Gardin

don’t want to travel far between

savory potato gratin, roast garlic

and into their Mirror club. This brand

the two places, just remember these

sauce and crunchy asparagus. Pair

new club will definitely amaze you

words: Gardin and Mirror.

this dish with the Gardin of Eden

with its grand décor, superb lighting

(Rp. 125,000++), their signature

and thumping beats. Just remember

Located on Petitenget Street, this

A personal favorite of mine is

ice cream.

Once you are nicely warmed up

to leave your flip-flops and Bintang singlets at home (after all, you are in Seminyak). Open daily from 11 a.m. to 1 a.m.

Gardin Bistro & Patisserie And Mirror Lounge & Club Jalan Petitenget No. 106, Seminyak (0361) 849-9799 www.facebook.com/gardinbali

FOR BRUNCH Sisterfields has quickly gained a reputation as one of the best places for brunch in Seminyak, offering a

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53

FOR TWO Having already gained recognition in Singapore as one of the best places to dine out, Kilo has spread its wings and landed on this paradise island.

Tucked away on Drupadi Street and offering a stylish ambience, this new restaurant presents a unique sharing concept that combines all the best parts of Mexican, Italian and another winner.

As for drinks, try their healthy

Japanese cuisine. Kilo is definitely the one to try if you’re looking

casual yet chic Melbourne feel and a

juice with spinach, green apple,

for somewhere to take a special

menu that packs a delicious punch.

cucumber, celery and mint. It’s

someone.

For a quintessential brunch, order

super refreshing and I imagine it

To start, opt for their Wasabi

their Eggs Benedict (Rp. 60,000++)

would be a great hangover cure too.

Tuna Tartare (Rp. 90,000++)

that comes with beautifully poached

Sisterfields is open daily from 7 a.m.

featuring fresh tuna mixed with

eggs and crispy bacon on grilled

to 5 p.m., and you can enjoy your

avocado and sesame. This comes

sourdough bread, topped with

meal indoors or al fresco on their

with flour chips that are perfect for

hollandaise sauce. It’s so good that

terrace or in their backyard.

dipping. For the greens, I personally

it might have you wishing the portion

recommend their Roasted Beetroot

were even bigger! Their Chicken

Sisterfields

Salad (Rp. 80,000++) presented

Schnitty Sandwich (Rp. 70,000++)

Jalan Kayu Cendana No. 7,

with local arugula, crispy pecans

with zesty Creole chutney, fresh

Seminyak

and dill, and topped off with zesty

cabbage coleslaw, roasted tomato

(0361) 905-0507

herb dressing and feta yoghurt.

and wholegrain mustard mayo is

www.sisterfields.com

For dessert, go for their Pistachio Cake with crème fraiche and lemon (Rp. 65,000++) or their heavenly Chocolate Lava Cake topped with a scoop of vanilla ice cream and a sprinkle of walnuts (Rp. 85,000++).

Kilo is open daily for lunch from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. and dinner from 6 p.m. to 11 p.m., while their bar

Kilo Jalan Drupadi No. 20XX, Seminyak (0361) 474-1006

Kilo’s Wasabi Tuna Tartare with fresh avocado and sesame

www.facebook.com/kilobali

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BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2015

ALL COURTESY PHOTOS

stays open until midnight.

Corner House has a Happy Hour that runs from 5 to 8 p.m. daily as well as a special Thirsty Thursday program at their upstairs bar starting from 8 p.m. until late.

finely chopped olive tapenade. Meat lovers should opt for their hearty Lamb Burger (Rp. 92,000++) with fresh mint yoghurt, balsamic glazed onion, cheese and cucumber (it comes with mixed greens and crisp French fries too). Have a delicious Iced Café Latte (Rp. 25,000++) with your meal; you can even grab one in the morning, as they’re open daily from 7 a.m.

But back to the business of meetups. Corner House has a Happy Hour that runs from 5 to 8 p.m. daily as well as a special Thirsty Thursday program at their upstairs bar starting

FOR A WEEKEND MEET-UP

offers a calm and cozy atmosphere,

from 8 p.m. until late. So what are

despite being located right beside

you waiting for?

Located right on the corner of

one of Seminyak’s busiest roads.

By Ariko Ahmad

Drupadi and Kayu Aya Street, the

Try their Nicoise Style Salad (Rp.

Corner House is a great spot for a

67,000++) featuring slow cooked

Corner House Bali

get together or a catch up session

tuna with beans, broccoli, egg,

Jalan Kayu Aya No. 10A, Seminyak

with friends. Their shady terrace

capers, crunchy romaine lettuce,

(0361) 730-276

area is perfect for lingering and

basil, and a generous amount of

www.cornerhousebali.com

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ACTION&ATTRACTION

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AIM AND SHOOT!

BALI PAINTBALL ARENA PROVIDES AN IDEAL SHOOTING RANGE IN THE BEAUTIFUL LANDSCAPE OF UNGASAN’S LIMESTONE HILL.

W

ith three

LEARN TO SHOOT

arenas in

If you are new to paintball, start at

a natural

their shooting range with targets

outdoor

placed at distances of 20 to 30 meters. The various targets are made

environment, professional paintball

of paper, cardboard and soft plastic

training sessions and state-of-the-art

container lids, and here you will be

equipment and safety gear, this is

able to hone your shooting skills and

a great place to go with friends,

practice accuracy with ‘aim and

colleagues or family, whether rain

shoot’ activities.

or shine.

players with a time-based shooting

You can even challenge other

competition. This involves shooting from a sitting position, although some targets must be shot from a kneeling or standing position in order to add to the fun and challenge of the competition. This is an excellent way to introduce people to target shooting in the outdoors.

The package price for this activity is Rp. 400,000 net per person, which is inclusive of one air gun rental, one box of pellets (80 rounds) and mineral water. Also included is hotel transfer (minimum 4 persons), which is a good thing to take advantage of since it can be a bit of a challenge to find the location.

BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2015

57

rules of the game, you’ll be reminded

If you’re feeling comfortable with

how to operate the semi-automatic

your shooting skills, another option

paintball gun, including handling,

is to take advantage of a package

loading, aiming and shooting. Then

where you can join forces with other

you’ll get to do a few practice rounds

players and go head-to-head against

prior to entering the battlefield.

another team.

You’ll start with a welcome drink

In the first battlefield, the two teams are separated by a line of

at the reception area, and then suit

trees, drums, and big balloons

up in a camouflage jumpsuit and face

to take cover behind. Clutching

protector. After being briefed on the

your paintball gun tightly, relish in

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BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2015

PHOTOS COURTESY OF BALI PAINTBALL ARENA

GO HEAD-TO-HEAD

CLUTCHING YOUR PAINTBALL GUN TIGHTLY, RELISH IN THE ADRENALINE RUSH AS YOU DUCK, ROLL AND MANEUVER THROUGH THE FIELD, AIMING AND SHOOTING AT YOUR OPPONENTS AND AVOIDING THE PAINT BULLETS RUSHING PAST YOU.

the adrenaline rush as you duck,

when trying to take over the

roll and maneuver through the

opposing team’s area.

field, aiming and shooting at your

At the end of the exciting

opponents and avoiding the paint

paintball session you’ll be provided

bullets rushing past you.

with a light meal to enjoy while

A horn is blown to signal the end

taking in the view of the limestone

of the first game, which is followed

hill. Although the packages vary, for

by a short break. Then the second

Rp. 700,000 nett/person you can

game commences in a village-like

get 200 rounds of paintball ammo,

scene with wooden huts, fences and

two game sessions at different

bushes. This terrain provides more

playing fields, complimentary

hiding spots and more challenges

refreshments, one light meal and insurance for each player.

A morning paintball game is definitely recommended as you’ll be able to finish by lunch and it gives you enough time to treat your gun shot ‘wounds’ and rest after being so active. Then you’ll be free to enjoy Bali’s renowned sunset from the southern part of the island.

Bali Paintball Arena Jalan Alas Arum, Kuta Selatan +62 82247006999 www.balipaintballarena.com

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59

BEYONDBALI

A SURREAL SCENE

CONTRIBUTOR PHIL GREEN ‘POPS OVER’ TO EAST JAVA TO VISIT THE STUNNING IJEN PLATEAU, THEN SHARES WITH US HIS EXPERIENCE. ANYONE ELSE INSPIRED TO EMBARK ON A ROAD TRIP?

I

’ve wanted to visit Banyuwangi and the Ijen Plateau for a number of years, so when my son visited me here in Bali we decided at

the spur of the moment to ‘just do it.’ Hastily getting together cold weather gear and hiking boots, we set off by car from Denpasar before sunrise. As they say, the best adventures are never planned...

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Despite wet weather, Ijen is certainly accessible during the rainy season (photos were taken during the rainy season).

However, the best time to visit Ijen would be during the dry season (April – November).

FERRYING ACROSS

journey I would take the northern

was crystal clear and the volcanic

Our first destination was Gilimanuk

route to Singaraja, and then head

mountains of Ijen loomed large as

and the ferry crossing to Java. The

south over the mountains through

the ferry approached Java. After

southern Bali route to Gilimanuk from

Bedugul and on to Denpasar. This

some caffeine, pisang goreng

Denpasar is reputedly one of the

proved to be a wise choice!

(banana fritters) and dangdut tunes

most dangerous roads in Indonesia,

After five hours (that included a

on the 40-minute ferry ride, I felt as

and I can attest to its fearsome

couple of breaks to calm the nerves)

reputation – the hairpin bends and

we finally reached Gilimanuk. The

very tired truck drivers arriving at the

facilities and organization at the

TWO-WHEEL DRIVE

end of their overnight from Surabaya

port are excellent and in no time we

After exiting the port facility we

to Denpasar are absolutely nerve-

had our car on the ferry and were

headed south along the main coast

wracking. I vowed that on the return

on our way to Java. The morning sky

road towards Banyuwangi proper.

BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2015

61

good as new.

We quickly arrived and to my surprise there were a number of signs for our destination ‘Kawah Ijen.’ I found this highly unusual, as often in Indonesia there are no signs at all, or if there are I’m suspicious they are pointing in the wrong direction!

The way up to Ijen is comprised of picturesque rice paddies set against the mountain backdrop.

We followed yet more ‘Kawah Ijen’ signs and by lunchtime had arrived at the ‘Ijen Resto and Homestay’ in Licin. This homestay consists of basic yet clean bungalows, even with hot water facilities.

Later in the afternoon we decided to further investigate the road beyond Licin. As we snaked our way higher the road narrowed and was covered by a beautiful canopy of rain forest trees, vines and superb tree ferns. At around 14 kilometers the vegetation thinned out, the road flattened, and we had reached the drier plateau. A couple of kilometers later we arrived at Paltuding, the starting point for the Kawah Ijen trek.

Most advice on the web warns that the Licin route to Paltuding is simply impassable without a good 4WD, but we found this was not the case. The road has been upgraded in recent years (in support of the Banyuwangi Tour de Ijen, a 600 km bicycle road race around East Java) and although there are some pretty

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“The trek to Ijen crater is simply unforgettable. The terrain and views are superb, but perhaps the most enduring memory of all is that of the miners. Despite their enormous physical ordeal, they are very good-natured and even humorous with the tourists sharing their track. They accept the challenges of the job they have taken on, and do it with dignity, humility, and without complaint.�

BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2015

63

steep parts, we had no problems in our 2WD Toyota.

A CHALLENGING TREK Under a dark but brilliantly starry sky we began the trek to Ijen crater.

It is around three kilometers to the rim and the track is well traveled by around 300 sulphur miners daily.

Some 15 minutes into the trek the path begins to steepen, and was made even more difďŹ cult by the darkness of the night.

An hour and a half later the silhouette of the crater rim was visible against a faint early dawn sky. We pushed on quickly and soon arrived at the rim. Peering down, we were absolutely blown away by the breathtaking sight below. The lake itself had an eerie greenish glow, contrasting with the bluish and yellow glow from the burning sulphur and a gas cloud drifting across the lake. The scene was an awesome spectacle reminiscent of Dante’s Inferno.

We spent the next couple of hours on the crater rim track and then down at the sulphur mine site by the lake. The crater rim track offers superb views of Ijen crater and the volcanic terrain of the whole Ijen Plateau further to the west. The terrain is spectacular, surreal, and just as grand as the more famous Mount Bromo.

The trip from the crater rim down to the mining site is very

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BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2015

PHOTOS BY PHIL GREEN (BALIPHOTOBLOG.SMUGMUG.COM)

CRATER RIM VIEWS

steep and difficult, and not to

Once enveloped by the fumes, you

trek back up to the crater rim was

be underestimated. Once down

cough and your eyes start to sting –

again challenging, but my simple

near the sulphur operations all is

this is an acidic gas after all!

backpack was nothing compared to

fine until the wind stops, changes

It’s hard to believe that the

the miners who were carrying 70 to

direction, and you are enveloped

sulphur miners work here for hours

in thick sulphur fumes. Although we

on end, and I was glad to see that

had taken hand-towels to breathe

some of them had gas masks and

into Paltuding for a well-deserved

through, this was barely enough.

proper rubber boots and gloves. The

late breakfast of banana pancakes

90 kilograms of sulphur blocks.

Two hours later we stumbled back

and coffee, and later in the day

INDONESIA

we drove to a number of sites around the plateau including the hot springs at Catimor and the nearby waterfalls. I highly recommend an hour of soaking in the springs after the Ijen climb, particularly when local brewed coffee is served as you relax in the steamy hot ponds.

EAST JAVA

By Phil Green

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65

CAPITALCORNER

THE DARLINGS OF JEWELRY DESIGN TAKE NOTE OF THESE TALENTED INDONESIAN JEWELRY DESIGNERS BECAUSE YOU’LL BE BLOWN AWAY BY THEIR CREATIONS.

By Dewi Irma

Heaven Tanudiredja worked for John Galliano before setting up his own label

W

earing

spotlight. Read on to learn more about

its distinct sculptural elements and

accessories

some of our favorites!

technical innovations.

jewelry can

HEAVEN TANUDIREDJA

jewelry designer’s career in fashion

do wonders

Why be ordinary when you can be

began when he moved to Europe in

to your look, adding boldness

extraordinary? Heaven Tanudiredja

2004 and trained in womenswear

or uniqueness to an otherwise

understands this sentiment for sure,

at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in

basic outfit. As it turns out, young

and has created a collection of bold

Antwerp. He then worked for John

Indonesian jewelry designers are

and heavily-detailed statement jewelry

Galliano at Christian Dior Haute

quite a talented bunch who are

dedicated to women with strong

Couture, followed by Dries van

poised to take the national fashion

characters. Heaven’s work is noted for

Noten, and finally in 2007 set up his

such as

This Bali-born and Belgium-based

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BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2015

own label. His unique handcrafted pieces have led him to collaborate with international fashion designers such as Juun.J and Iris van Herpen, and in 2013 with Bruno Pieters’ label Honest By. Although living and working in Antwerp, the designer has not forgotten his homeland of Indonesia.

In September 2014 he showcased his creations in an exhibit called ‘Subject to Object’ at The Papilion

Audrey Akman’s pieces are dedicated to modern women who dare to look different

Duo in Pacific Place, Jakarta. He amazed local fashion, art, and

as Pyromania, Trichotillomania,

AUDREY AKMAN

jewelry enthusiasts with his sculptural

Anorexia Nervosa or Agoraphobia.

New York City is where Audrey

pieces that combine gold, enamel,

began to bring her design dreams

Heaven’s creations are sold from US$ 435 to over US$ 11,000

into realization, and although she

and can be found in boutiques like

actually studied clothing design

keywords in Heaven’s mind when

Liberty in London, 10 Corso Como

(she was the brains behind Nicki

he creates, and he always strives

in Milan, Blake in Chicago, Le Bon

Minaj’s dance costumes at the

to show the beauty behind chaos

Marche in Paris, Dover Street Market

2012 Grammy Awards) she later

with his designs, which often

in London, Tokyo and New York, as

discovered a passion for making

have extraordinary names such

well as Joyce in Hong Kong.

jewelry. Working with various

and vintage crystals.

‘Robotic’ and ‘exotic’ are

metals and scavenged objects, she combines them into sculptural pieces under her label Audrey Akman New York (since 2013).

BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2015

67

Rosalyn Cita’s pieces are hammered and left raw, featuring twisted edges, unique shapes and rustic imperfections to accentuate eccentric character

Striking a perfect balance between classy and edgy is what drives Audrey Akman to make jewelry. The young jewelry designer is inspired by things that are contradictory, and her collections feel erotic and sensual yet at the same time innocent, dark but at the same time elegant and hauntingly beautiful. They’re an embodiment of the conflict between good and bad, and show the transition from innocence to enlightenment.

Her earrings, necklaces and elements and are dedicated to

unique take on gold and silver-plated

the Wabi Sabi philosophy from

modern and independent women

accessories. Her debut collection

Japan, where ‘beauty lies in the

who dare to look different. Every

was featured in Vogue Talent Corner

imperfections’, her stunning pieces

product is created with the superb

2012 and she was also named one

are intentionally unpolished and not

craftsmanship of dedicated artisans

of the Most Promising Accessories

necessarily perfect, because Rosalyn

in Bali. Head to Audrey Akman’s

Brands at the Cleo Fashion Awards

feels that clean, beautiful, and very

website to browse the stunning

during the recent Jakarta Fashion

polished designs can often feel quite

jewelry or visit her gallery at The

Week (JFW) 2014.

tiresome. Her pieces are hammered

Akmani Hotel in Jakarta.

As one of the participants of the

and left raw, featuring twisted

Indonesia Fashion Forward (IFF)

edges, unique shapes and rustic

ROSALYN CITTA

program during JFW 2015, her

imperfections to accentuate eccentric

Rosalyn Citta, a graduate of Istituto

presentation successfully conveyed

character.

Marangoni Milano, is known for her

‘luxury in simplicity’. Based on

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BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2015

Rosalyn often explores metals

ALL PHOTOS COURTESY OF DESIGNERS

bracelets often featuring Swarovski

and can enjoy looking through the selection of necklaces, bangles and earrings that evoke a sense of history and cultural pride.

Says Ina Symonds, one of the founders of the brand, “That’s what Manjusha Nusantara is all about, to share what we’ve learned, the connection between Indonesian history and its traditional jewelry.

and turns them into sleek modern designs. This fills the gap in the market for metal accessories that is often dominated by overly traditional designs. To browse her designs go to Bobobobo.com. This brand is also available at selective stores in Shanghai, Beijing, and Guangzhou.

MANJUSHA NUSANTARA Apart from being used to enhance one’s appearance, jewelry also has historical value. The brand Manjusha Nusantara, established in 2011, focuses on preserving Indonesia’s jewelry heritage and shares with

The women behind Manjusha Nusantara are lovers of Indonesian antique jewelry

people the richness of the country’s collection is mostly made of alpaca

We try to make traditional jewelry

metal, which is then plated with silver

more accessible to modern women

Ria W. Glenn, Terry W. Supit, Ina

and gold. Their pieces are not mass-

as part of our contribution to pass on

Symonds and Yasmin Wirjawan,

produced in order to retain specific

Indonesian heritage.”

are all passionate about Indonesian

artistic touches.

traditional jewelry.

The four women behind the brand,

culture, especially Indonesia’s antique

For jewelry enthusiasts who want

Past collections have been named

to experience wearing traditional

jewelry. Manjusha Nusantara means

The Swarnadipa, The Peranakan,

jewelry in these modern times,

‘jewelry box from the archipelago,’

The Sulawesi and Kalingga. Every

check out the Manjusha Nusantara

and they specialize in producing

time they hold a trunk show or

collection available at Hadiprana

replicas of Indonesian heritage

fashion show, visitors are able to

Gallery and Dia.lo.gue Artspace

jewelry from all over Indonesia. The

learn the history behind the jewelry

in Jakarta.

BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2015

69

BEYONDUPDATES

BANYUWANGI JAZZ The second annual Banyuwangi Beach Jazz Festival took place in December at Boom Beach in Banyuwangi, aimed at promoting the natural beauty and cultural diversity of the Banyuwangi Regency. Apart from enjoying the lovely atmosphere, festivalgoers were treated to performances from Tohpati & Friends, Kahitna, Kua Etnika featuring Trie Utami, and collaborations between the visiting and local artists. www.jazzpantai.com

THE BIG 5 JAZZ PANTAI PHOTOS COURTESY OF BBJF 2014 OTHER COURTESY OF TURKISH AIRLINES

Turkish Airlines celebrated its 5th year of flying to Jakarta in November. The airline strives to provide the best service for its loyal customers in Indonesia, and has been awarded ‘Best Airline in Europe’ by Skytrax for four consecutive years as well as ‘World’s Best Business Class Lounge Dining’ in 2014. www.turkishairlines.com.com

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BEYONDUPDATES

GO FOR GOLD For those headed to Jakarta, you will want to consider staying at the Gran Melia Jakarta, which was awarded The Best City Hotel-Jakarta at the 25th TTG Travel Awards in Bangkok. The win was determined through a vote by readers, with criteria such as best service and facilities, best value added benefits, and most professional sales and marketing team. The hotel’s team was proud to bring the 24K gold-plated Hermes trophy back to Indonesia’s capital.

Gran Melia Hotel Jakarta Jalan H.R. Rasuna Said Kav. X-0, Kuningan (021) 526-8080 www.granmeliajakarta.com

EXPERT OF PRINCE DIPONEGORO

ALL COURTESY PHOTOS

The Samana Foundation recently awarded the ‘Sang Hyang Kamahayanikan Award 2014’ to British historian Peter Carey. Dedicated to Southeast Asia’s history, he has thoroughly studied Prince Diponegoro’s life and is adept not only at explaining his war tactics against Dutch colonialism but also gets into the national hero’s psyche. The award was presented at the Borobudur Writers & Cultural Festival. www.borobudurwritersfestival.com

BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2015

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73

On December 10 the Gianyar Regency held an event called ‘Gianyar Cultural Wonders Design and Fashion’ featuring veteran designers Bintang Mira, Tjok Abi and Tude Togog, who are well known for their use of Balinese textiles.

The event was held at Puri Agung Gianyar and was aimed at keeping the Balinese textile tradition alive by promoting it’s modern and innovative use. www.gianyarkab.go.id

FRENCH FUSION The French hip hop dance troupe Compagnie Pyramid collaborated with local hip hop dancers Aerial Crew in a performance titled Bersama (meaning ‘together’). The dynamic event was held on December 1 at the Bale Banjar Ballroom of the Le Méridien Bali Jimbaran. www.lemeridienbalijimbaran.com

WHITE PARTY On December 6 the Nikki Beach Bali had their Grand Opening White Party. With about 1,500 attendees, the fabulous event featured DJs and entertainers from Nikki Beach Clubs around the world. A highlight of the night was a mesmerizing performance by a dancer suspended from a giant balloon in the sky. www.nikkibeach.com 74

BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2015

FASHION SHOW PHOTOS COURTESY OF PEMKAB GIANYAR OTHERS COURTESY OF NIKKI BEACH & LE MERIDIEN BALI JIMBARAN

SEE&SEEN

LOCAL TEXTILES

SURFING WITH SANTA On December 7 the Odysseys Surf School held fun surfing lessons at Kuta Beach for the orphans of the Hope Children’s Home. The instructors, dressed as Santa, also taught the kids about safety in the water and beach cleaning. www.odysseysurfschool.com

SCHOOLIES HOLIDAY

SURF’S UP The Asian Surfing Championships (ASC) held their 4th annual awards party on December 13 at the Mantra Dine & Cocktail Bar in Seminyak. The event was attended by more than 80 surfers, who congratulated Asia’s 2014 Men’s, Women’s, and Junior surfing champions. It was the first time the ASC crowned a junior women’s champion (16 years and under). www.asiansurfingtour.com BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2015

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AWARD PHOTOS BY BALI HOLIDAY FOR ASC OTHERS COURTESY OF THE 101 BALI LEGIAN & ODYSSEYS

THE 101 Bali Legian proudly hosted the Sunblast Ultraglow Festival on November 26. Their rooftop was crowded with youthful partygoers from 3 p.m. who enjoyed the atmosphere of live DJs (including Some Blonde and Reecelow) and marathon shots. www.the101bali.com

Negara

JEMBRANA

Medewi

West Bali National Park

Pemuteran

Menjangan Island

Gilimanuk

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M

Nusa Dua

Candi Dasa

Nusa Lembongan Island

Semarapura

Nusa Penida Island

Nusa Ceningan Island

Tanjung Benoa

Sanur

Tenganan

Amlapura

Amed

Tulamben M. Agung

KARANGASEM

Besakih

Lake Batur

KLUNGKUNG GIANYAR

DENPASAR

Taman Ayun

BADUNG

Ubud

Bangli

BANGLI

M. Batur Kintamani Bedugul

Kerobokan Seminyak Legian NGURAH RAI Kuta Tuban INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT Jimbaran Uluwatu

Canggu

Tanah Lot

Tabanan

TABANAN

M. Batukaru

Laker Buyan Lake Tamblingan Lake Bratan

BULELENG

Lovina

Singaraja

BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2015

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W Hotel

H

Gado Gado

R

The Oberoi

uk

H

ra

C

H

Mercure

Rosso Vivo

C

Kuta Sea View

Road

W

H

Kuta Square

R

Gabah

Jl. Tegal Wangi

Kuta Center

Kuta beach

S

S

N

KUTA

Jl. Nakula

Jl. Plawa

Hard Rock Starbucks Jl. Pantai Kuta

H R

nset

Jl. kunti I

Jl. Su

Jl. Tangkuban Perahu

H Istana rama Beachwalk H Harris

Jl. Melasti

Legian Beach

H

Jl.

a Padm

Amaris Legian

kuda Jl. Wer

Jl. Arjuna

Jl. Camplung Tand

Jl. Laksamana

Jl. Mertasari

LEGEND: + Medical C Cafe H Hotel M Market H S M Museum Kartika Plaza Shopping S S R Restaurant Discovery Shopping Mall V Villa CD Corps Diplomatique

H

H

The Seminyak

Jemme Cafe

Jl. Petitenget

C

Danoya

ix

le S

oub

Jl. D

Jl. Raya Basangkasa

Jl. Raya Seminyak

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Jl. Mertanadi

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Jl. Raya Kerobokan

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Puri Santrian

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Sindu Beach

CD

Bali Hyatt

C

Batu Jimbar

The Village

LEGEND: + Medical C Cafe H Hotel M Market M Museum S Shopping R Restaurant CD Corps Diplomatique

H

H

H

Sector

Sweden & Finland Consulate

Telaga Naga

French Consulate

Sanur Paradise Plaza Suite

M Le Mayeur

Inna Grand Bali Beach

Jl. Segara Ayu

Sanur Paradise Plaza

Tuah Jl. Hang

H

CD

H

Czech Rep. Consulate

Jl. Danau Poso

Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai

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CD

Jl. Danau Buyan

Jl. Tegeh Agung

n

SANUR

Jl. Tukad Bilok

Jl.

Jl. Hang

CD Italy Consulate

Sanur Beach

Bali Galleria

S

Jl. kunti II

Istana Kuta Galleria

E

apahit Jl. Maj

Kuta aya Jl. R

Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai

i

Jl.

S

latan

H

inge

en

G

iM

H

H

Grand Nikko Bali Resort & Spa

H

nta

gia

t

H

Art Market

Medical Center

SAKALA

Tao Bali

Melia Bali

The Laguna

The Bay

LEGEND: + Medical C Cafe H Hotel M Market M Museum S Shopping R Restaurant G Golf CD Corps Diplomatique

Grand Hyatt Bali

R

Museum PasiďŹ ka

H

H

Bali Collection

M

Nusa Dua Beach Westin Resort

H H

H

Club Med Bali Kayumanis Nusa Dua

H

Art Market

S

H

Melia Benoa

The Royal Santrian

Conrad Bali

H

H

H

The Oasis

Aston Bali Resort

Grand Mirage

Ina Putri Bali

S

R R +

S

H Novotel Bali Benoa H The Bali Khama

Ayodya Resort bali

H

Bali National Golf Club

Pa

+

Village Market

Clinic

uda

M iray

+

+

H

The St. Regis Bali Resort

Jl.

Jl. W

Amaris Pratama Nusa Dua

Dental Clinic

Clinic

H H

H

H

Fish Market

Ramada Benoa

The Mulia, Mulia Resort & Villas

+

Medical Center

Amanusa

Pem

Tragia

S

E

Jl. Pratama Raya

ai

a Se Nusa Du

H

The Bale

ntai

3

Jl. Pa

Jl. Kurusetra

W

N

NUSA DUA

M

Jl. Pratama

Jl. Batubelig

J

Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai

h Ra gura ss N

hR

l. By pa

i

Jl. Danau Tamblingan

ra

sar

gu

rta

sN

Me

BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2015

as

Jl.

a

78

tam

et Road

Jl. P ra

Jl. Suns Jl. Srikandi

Jl. p By

BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2015

79

Bumbak

Canggu River

Pantai Brawa

Raya Semer Peng

uben

gan

KUWUM

ka

n

Perancak Temple

SEMER

Subaksari

Canggu SurďŹ ng

~~ ~~ ~~ ~~

To Denpasar

yan

TIBUBENENG

er

Nela

BUMBAK

wa

em

Pantai Bra

aS

~~ ~~ ~~ ~~ Canggu Beach

International Community School

To Kerobokan

Ray

CANGGU

Ke

lec

un

g

Jl.

~~ ~~ ~~ ~~

Brawa Beach

Ra

ya

Ke

ro

bo

Dukun Indah

BRAWA

UMALAS

Batub

Batubelig

elig

Gunung Tangkuban Perah

Batubelig

BATUBELIG

KEROBOKAN

H

Villa Lumbung

nget Petite

ri Mertasa

et

Bali Clinic Laksam

a

i

ana

Drupadi

SEMINYAK

aya

Bida

Su

kasa

Ay

H

yu

The Legian

Jl. R

+

Ka

S

T Petitenget Temple Petiteng

Obero

E

Basang

LEGEND: + Medical T Tourism Spot H Hotel/Resort M Market M Museum S Shopping R Restaurant

Jl. Raya Kerobokan

N W

R

H

W Bali

KEROBOKAN CANGGU

Warisan Australian International School

Mertanadi

~~ ~~ ~~ ~~

Batubelig Beach

u

State Prison of Kerobokan

ns

UBUD

To Kintamani

M Neka Museum

N

Jl. Sandat

W

an

Jl. Campuhan

To Payangan

KEDEWATAN

Jl. Andong

g ajen

M

Market

M

Cok Putra S wah

Rai ede ok G

T

Pusering Jagad Tample

Jl. C

Jl. IB

Lamak

H

Maya Ubud Resort

iwa

R

Jl. Sugr

Forest

Medical

nkey

+

Jl. Jemba

+

Jl. Mo

LEGEND: + Medical T Tourism Spot H Hotel/Resort M Market M Museum S Shopping R Restaurant

Medical

Jl. Dewi Sita

SAYAN

Ganding

Ubud Palace

d

Jl. Jero

Ubu

Manik

PENESTANAN

aya

Jl. Sand

Jl. R

M Antonio Blanco Museum

man

H

ANDONG

at

Painting Museum

Kayu Manis

TAMAN

Jl. Hano

Ay

un

g

CAMPUHAN

E S

Jl. Su

H Four Season

Jl. K

Riv

er

weta

Jl. Tirta Tam

UBUD

T

Penataran Sasih Tample

T

Keboedan Tample

Monkey Forest

T

To Denpasar

Jl. Nyuh bulan

PELIATAN

KATIK LANTANG

NYUH KUNING

M Afchaeological Museum

BEDULU

T

Elephant Cave

80

Rudana BALI&BEYOND JANUARYTEGES 2015 Museum M

PANGOSEKAN

To Denpasar

To Kemenuh

TENGKULAK

To Gianyar

et

dari

Ro

ad

BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2015

81

INFOINDEX

AIRLINES

Tel: (0361) 286-465, Fax: (0361) 286-408 E-mail: bali@honorary.mzv.cz

Renon, Denpasar Fax: (0361) 263-310 E-mail: rtc_bali@thaimail.com

■ AIRPORT OPERATOR Tel: (0361) 751-011

■ FRANCE

■ TIMOR LESTE

■ CATHAY PACIFIC AIRWAYS

Jl. Mertasari Gg. II No. 8, Sanur Tel: (0361) 285-485, Fax: (0361) 286-406 E-mail: consul@dps.centrin.net.id

Jl. Prof. Yamin No. 4, Renon, Denpsar Tel: (0361) 235-093, Fax: (0361) 235-092 E-mail: cgtl@dpsbali.com

■ GERMANY

■ UNITED STATES

Tel: (0361) 768-358, Fax: (0361) 768-369

Jl. Pantai Karang 17, Batujimbar, Sanur Tel: (0361) 288-535, Fax: (0361) 288-826 Email: germanconsul@bali-ntb.com

Jl. Hayam Wuruk 188, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 233-605, Fax: (0361) 222-426 E-mail: amcobali@indosat.net.id

■ ROYAL BRUNEI

■ HUNGARY

Tel: (0361) 757-292

■ SINGAPORE AIRLINES

Marintur, Jl. By Pass Ngurah Rai 219, Sanur.

Tel: (0361) 287-701, Fax: (0361) 287-456 Email: huconbali@telkom.net

Jl. I Gusti Ngurah Rai, Airport Tel: (0361) 936-8388, Fax: (0361) 936-8383

■ INDIA

■ GARUDA Jl. Jalan Sugianyar, 5 Denpasar

Jl. Raya Puputan 163, Renon - Denpasar Tel. (0361) 259-502/259-503 Fax.(0361) 259-505

Wisthi Sabha Building, 2nd Floor Ngurah Rai International Aiprort Call Centre: 0804-1-888888

■ CONTINENTAL MICRONESIA

Tel. (0361) 227-824, Fax: (0361) 226-298 24-hour access: 08071-807-807

■ MERPATI Jl. Gatot Subroto Tengah, 26 Denpasar Tel: (0361) 411-364 Airport Tel: (0361) 9351-011, ext. 5240/5242 Hotline: Tel: (0361) 722-740, 722-741

■ MANDALA AIRLINES Komp. Plaza Kertawijaya Jl. Diponogoro No. 98, Denpasar, Reservation Call center 08041234567

■ NGURAH RAI AIRPORT Tel/Fax: (0361) 759-761

HEALTH&MEDICAL

■ ITALY Lotus Enterprises Building Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai, Jimbaran Tel: (0361) 701-005, Fax: (0361) 701-005 E-mail: italconsbali @italconsbali.org

■ JAPAN Jl. Raya Puputan 170, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 227-628, Fax: (0361) 265-066 E-mail: denpasar@dp.mofa.go.jp

■ MALAYSIA Alam Kulkul Boutique Resort Jl. Pantai Kuta Tel: (0361) 752-520, Fax: (0361) 766-373 E-mail: info@consulmalaysia-bali.com

■ THAI INTERNATIONAL Grand Bali Beach Sanur, Tel: (0361) 288-141

■ QATAR AIRWAYS Discovery Kartika Plaza Hotel, South Kuta Beach Tel: (0361) 752-222; Fax: 753-788. Departure International Terminal, 2nd fl. – Room OP.II.8 East Wing Ngurah Rai International Airport Tel: (0361) 9360274; Fax : (0361) 9360275 ■ DEPARTURE Arrive at the airport two hours prior to departure. A Rp. 150,000 international departure tax is required. Domestic departure fee is Rp 75,000. No Fiscal tax-exempt to pay for Indonesian and expatriates holding KITAS for International departure. Ngurah Rai Intíl Airport, Tel: (0361) 751-011

■ MEXICO PT Puri Astina Putra Building Jl. Prof. Moh. Yamin 1A, Renon, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 223-266, Fax: (0361) 244-568 E-mail: consulmex@astinatravel.com

Call an ambulance by dialing 118, but it is a lot more practical and quicker to hire a taxi. Most hotels have on-call doctors on standby. For “Bali Belly”, Lomotil and Imodium eliminate symptoms, but not gastro-related infections. A fever along with symptoms requires doctor-prescribed antibiotics.

Drink as much liquid as possible. Isotonic drinks under various brand names are widely available and are known to replenish body hydration and replace fluids. For discomfort, diarrhea and cramping, drink strong, hot tea; avoid fruits and spicy foods.

Some day-biting mosquitoes carry dengue fever, but this is not a problem in tourist areas.

Bali is non-malarial and prophylaxis is not required. Mosquito bites, cuts or abrasions easily become infected in the tropics. Treat them immediately.

Drink only bottled or boiled water. Peel fruit before eating; avoid raw vegetables except at reputable restaurants. Ice in restaurants is safe.

Protect yourself from the intense equatorial sun.

Use high SPF sunblock and a hat.

AIDS and sexually transmitted diseases are increasing in Indonesia. Local sex workers have multiple partners from around the world.

They are not checked for sexually transmitted diseases. Act responsibly and use condoms, available over the counter at pharmacies.

■ NETHERLANDS

■ ROYAL DANISH Sunset Road No. 89 Ruko Sunset Indah I Kav. 3 Tel: (0361) 821-6979, Fax: (0361) 7666-38 E-mail: danishconsbali@gmail.com

CLINIC&HOSPITAL 24-hour emergency medical clinic services, medical evacuation, multilingual staff.

Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai 505X, Kuta 80361 Tel: (0361) 710-505, Fax: (0361) 710-515

(ARMA) Ubud, Tel: (0361) 976-659, Fax: 974-229.

Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud, open daily 8 am-6pm

■ ABIAN KAPAS Jl. Nusa Indah, East Denpasar Tel: (0361) 227-176

■ ANTONIO BLANCO Ubud , Tel: (0361) 975-502, 975-551 open daily 8 am-5 pm

■ ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM Pejeng, Tel: (0361) 942-352 Open 8 am - 3 pm weekdays

■ GEDONG KIRTYA HISTORICAL LIBRARY Tel: (0362) 25141, Jl. Veteran, Singaraja. Open 7am - 3pm Monday Thursday, until Fridaynoon, closed on weekends

■ GALLERY SENIWATI Jl. Ubud Raya, Gianyar. Tel: (0361) 975-485

■ MUSEUM BALI Tel: (0361) 235-059, 222-680, Jl. Let. Kol Wisnu, Denpasar

■ MUSEUM LE MAYEUR Tel: (0361) 286-164, Jl. Hang Tuah, Sanur.

Open 8 am - 2 pm, Tuesday - Sunday.

■ MUSEUM MANUSA YADNYA Mengwi, open daily, but often unattended

■ MUSEUM NEKA Tel: (0361) 975-074, 975-034, Jl. Raya Campuan, Ubud open daily 9 am - 5 pm.

Tel: (0361) 975-136, 971-159, Jl. Raya Ubud, Ubud, www.mpl-ubud.com

■ MUSEUM RUDANA Tel: (0361) 975-779, 976-479, Peliatan, Ubud

■ MUSEUM SUBAK Tel: (0361) 810-315, Jl. Raya Kediri, Desa Sanggulan, Tabanan

■ BIMC Hospital Kuta ■ POLAND

■ BRITAIN

■ SPAIN

■ BIMC Hospital Nusa Dua

Jl. Tirta Nadi 20, Sanur, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 270-601, Fax: (0361) 287-804 E-mail: bcbali@dps.centrin.net.id

Istana Kuta Galeria, Blok Vallet 2, No. 11 Jl. Patih Jelantik, Kuta Tel: (0361) 769-296, Fax: (0361) 769-296 E-mail: espana_bali@blueline.net.id

24h Accident and Emergency Centre, 24h Medical Centre, international standard hospital with fully equipped ambulances, emergency room, intensive care unit, operating theatres, radiology and pathology, ward rooms, international and multilingual team of medical experts, CosMedic Centre, Dialysis Centre, Dental Centre.

Kawasan BTDC, Blok D, Nusa Dua 80363, Tel: (0361) 3000-911, Fax: (0361) 3001-150

NEW ZEALAND Jl. Tantular No. 32, Renon - Denpasar 80234 Tel: (0361) 241-118, Fax: (0361) 221-195 E-mail: bali.congen@dfat.gov.au www.bali.indonesia.embassy.gov.au

■ AGUNG RAI MUSEUM OF ART

■ INTERNATIONAL SOS CLINIC

Jl.Gunung Agung 93, Denpasar 80118 Tel: (0361) 426-171, Fax: (0361) 426-477 E-mail: konsulslowakbali@yahoo.com

■ AUSTRALIA, CANADA,

MUSEUMS

■ MUSEUM PURI LUKISAN

KCB Travel, Jl. Raya Kuta 127, Kuta Tel: (0361) 761-502, Fax: (0361) 752-777 E-mail: dutchconsulate@kcb-tours.com

24h Accident and Emergency Centre, 24h Medical Centre, international standard hospital with fully equipped ambulances, emergency room, intensive care unit, operating theatres, radiology and pathology, ward rooms, international and multilingual team of medical experts, CosMedic Centre for non-invasive and invasive cosmetic and aesthetic treatments.

Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai 100X, Kuta 80361 Tel: (0361) 761-263, Fax: (0361) 767-701

CONSULATES

■ RUMAH SAKIT UMUM PUSAT SANGLAH (General Hospital): Jl. Diponegoro, Sanglah, Denpasar. Tel: (0361) 227-911/15

Jl. Raya Petitenget No. 11, Block I/C, Banjar Umasari, Kerobokan Tel: (0361) 732-165, Fax: (0361) 732-165 E-mail: consul@balipolandconsulate.com

■ SLOVAKIA

TOURIST INFO. ■ INTEGRATED TOURISM INFORMATION CENTER (ITIC) A one-stop tourist information complex of ten provinces in Indonesia comprising Bali, Lampung, Jakarta, Banten, West Java, Central Java, East Java, Jogjakarta. Jl. Raya Kuta 2, Kuta, 80361; Tel: (0361) 766-188

■ NGURAH RAI INTERNATIONAL

■ BRAZIL Jl. Raya Legian No. 186, Kuta Tel: (0361) 757-775, Fax: (0361) 751-005 E–mail: brazilconsul@bali.net

■ SWEDEN & FINLAND Segara Village Hotel, Jl. Segara Ayu Tel: (0361) 282-211, Fax: 282-211 E-mail: sweconsul@yahoo.com

■ CHILE Jl. Jl. Pengembak Gg 1 No. 3, Sanur, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 756-781, Fax: (0361) 756-783 E-mail: chilehonconsulate@bali-villa.com

■ SWITZERLAND & AUSTRIA Jl. Ganetri 9 D, Gatot Subroto Timur, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 878-4343, Fax: (0361) 878-4466 E-mail: bali@honrep.ch

■ CZECH REPUBLIC Jl. Pengembak 17 Sanur.

■ THAILAND Jl. Puputan Raya No. 81,

82

■ SILOAM HOSPITALS 24-hour emergency 779-911 Jl. Sunset Road No. 818, Kuta, Badung, Bali Tel: +62-361-779-900 E-mail: info.bali@siloamhospitals.com

BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2015

AIRPORT Tel: (0361) 751-011

■ BADUNG GOVERNMENT TOURISM OFFICE Jl. Kuta Raya 2, Kuta Tel: (0361) 756-175/76 ■ BALI GOVERNMENT TOURISM OFFICE Jl. Supratman, Niti Mandala, Renon, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 222-387 ■ SINGARAJA TOURIST INFORMATION OFFICE Jl. Veteran 23, Singaraja Tel: (0362) 251-41

■ UBUD TOURIST INFORMATION SERVICE Jl. Raya Ubud, Gianyar Tel: (0361) 96-285, 973-285; 8 am - 9 pm

BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2015

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BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2015