THE SUN... THE SAND... THE SURF... THE CULTURE OF PARADISE AND OVER 18,000 SURROUNDING ISLANDS
J A N U A R Y 2 015 VOLUME 16 NO. 176
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TEAMTALK
MODERN TAKES ‘Om Swastiastu...’
There was once a time when it was considered ‘uncool’ to wear batik, but thank goodness that is no longer the case. These days Indonesians are quite proud of their cultural heritage and eager to share it, not only with the international community but more importantly with the younger generation. In this edition we explore a number of ways that people are bringing Indonesian history and culture into modern day life. In PROFILE & PORTRAIT we have an interview with Ibu Indra Tjahjani, a woman passionate about teaching Indonesian youth about
COVER By Brook Mitchell
batik and the meaning behind the patterns. In SHOPPING SPREE you’ll find stunning smartphone cases from BatikGeek, a company that pays homage to Indonesian mythical creatures, batik and shadow puppets through its eco-friendly products. The history of rijsttafel is an intriguing one, and in DINE & DELIGHTS we share with you three places in Bali that offer this lavish Dutch feast of Indonesian treats. And in REST & RELAXATION we give you a peek into the newly opened Centara Grand Villas Nusa Dua, where Peranakan style influences the interior design. The Peranakan are the Chinese immigrants who settled in the Indonesian archipelago from the 15th to 17th century – a very interesting part of this country’s history. There is so much more to read about, so flip through this edition to get a taste of the rich cultural experiences this country has to offer. We hope it inspires you to get a deeper understanding of the lovely people who are hosting you during your stay. And as always, we hope you have a great holiday!
‘Om Shanti Shanti Shanti Om…’ The Team
Note: In our December 2014 edition on page 14, the restaurant Lacalaca is misspelled as ‘Laca Laca.’ We apologize for any inconveniences.
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BALI & BEYOND General Manager GOESTAMAR ARDIBRATA goestamar@baliandbeyond.co.id Managing Editor MUTIA ARINI ADISOMA mutia@baliandbeyond.co.id Junior Editor JOSEPH WANG joseph@baliandbeyond.co.id Editorial Advisors A.A. GEDE RAI, JOHN M. DANIELS Graphic Advisor WENIAR PRAMESTI Senior Graphic Designer I PUTU PARTAJAYA putu@baliandbeyond.co.id Web & Graphic Designer MELIYANA SANTOSO meli@baliandbeyond.co.id Advertising & MarComm. Manager D. ARIEF SENOAJI arief@baliandbeyond.co.id Senior Advertising Sales Executive I PUTU RAI SUTRISMA rai@baliandbeyond.co.id Senior Advertising Sales Executive MEE WAURAN mee@baliandbeyond.co.id F&A Supervisor A.A. KETUT SUKERTI agung@baliandbeyond.co.id GA & Personnel Adm GEDE ADARA adara@baliandbeyond.co.id Distribution NYOMAN TRI HARIAN SAPUTRA nyoman@baliandbeyond.co.id Contributors ANGGARA MAHENDRA, KATIE TRUMAN, DEWI IRMA PHIL GREEN, BROOK MITCHELL, ARIKO AHMAD, DEWA AYU EKA PUTRI
Jakarta Marketing Services/Subscription RISKA WAHYUNINGSIH riska.wahyuningsih@baliandbeyond.co.id Tel: (021) 398 36061 (Ext. 224) Publisher PT. BUMI DIAN KUSUMA Commissioner SOETIKNO SOEDARJO Director MAULANA INDRAGUNA SUTOWO Division Head MRA Printed Media INDRIATI WIRJANTO
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Bali & Beyond Magazine is published monthly by PT. Bumi Dian Kusuma under the direction of MRA Media, Jakarta. Although every care is taken, neither the publishers nor any of their designees assume responsibility for the opinions and information expressed by editorial contributors. All material in this publication is copyrighted and cannot be reproduced without written permission of the publisher or author. All trademark and rights to Bali & Beyond are reserved by PT Bumi Dian Kusuma. Editorial materials may be submitted for consideration to the editorial office. Bali & Beyond is not responsible for the return of unsolicited material. © 2006 Bali & Beyond ISSN 0216-4590
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Endorsed by
CONTRIBUTORS
BALI GOVERNMENT TOURISM OFFICE Jl. S. Parman, Niti Mandala Renon, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 222 387, 226 313 Fax: (0361) 226 313
www. skal.org skalbali@dps.centrin.net.id
Anggara Mahendra
Dewi Irma
Phil Green
is a Balinese photographer currently based in Jakarta. He is working on personal documentary projects related to cultural, social, and environmental issues.
has a wide range of interests from fashion, art, design, music and food, to traveling. She dreams of having a cafe & bar of her own in the future.
is an avid traveler and a keen golfer with a passion for photography. Browse his growing collection of photographs at baliphotoblog. smugmug.com
Katie Truman waved goodbye to her native England fifteen years ago and has been living in Southeast Asia as a freelance writer ever since. She contributes to numerous international publications on her two big loves, Vietnam and Indonesia.
Brook Mitchell is an Australian travel and documentary photographer. His work has been published in numerous international publications, focusing on remote places and cultures. 8
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THE SUN... THE SAND... THE SURF... THE CULTURE OF PARADISE AND OVER 18,000 SURROUNDING ISLANDS
contents 01.15 JANUARY 2015 Volume 16 No. 176
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TRUNYAN’S ANCIENT MYTHOLOGY
THE MAGIC TOUCH
CRAFT&CULTURE
A special ceremony dedicated to ensuring village fertility and honoring Bali Mula mythology
INVITE&INDULGE
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Mind-blowing spiritual healing rituals at Fivelements in Ubud
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SIGHTS&SOUNDS
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PHOTOS & FUN FACTS
LIFESTYLE&LEISURE THE NEW MAESTROS
Modern Balinese art and where to find it in Ubud
Snapshots and quotes picked up throughout November and Decemcer
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LIFESTYLE&LEISURE
DINE&DELIGHTS A GRAND FEAST
Rijsttafel, a legacy left behind by the Dutch, showcases the rich variety of Indonesian cuisine
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A HINT OF THE ORIENT
The Peranakan heritage influences the Centara Grand Villas Nusa Dua, a refreshing new option in BTDC
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PROFILE&PORTRAIT
A DEEPER APPRECIATION
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MbatikYuuuk seeks to share batik knowledge with a greater audience, especially Indonesia’s youth
14 PRIMEPROMOTION
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18 NEW&NEWS
Hot deals and promotions of the month that shouldn’t be missed
This month’s select news updates from the island’s tourism industry and what’s new around the island
SHOPPINGSPREE COOL CASINGS
BatikGeek products make Indonesian art a part of urban life – a splurge we can really get behind!
70 BEYONDUPDATES News updates from the tourism industry and what’s new beyond Bali
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PONDERINGPOINT A MODERN AFFLICTION
Contemplating the pervasive use of smartphones…
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LITTLELOVES
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SEMINYAK’S NEWCOMERS Some of our favorite restaurants and hangouts that popped up in Seminyak in the 10 second half of 2014 BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2015
74 SEE&SEEN Snapshots of events and happenings within the preceding month
76 BALIMAPS Map of Bali showing specific tourism areas and places of interest, as well as a distance scale between the island’s main destinations
82 INFOINDEX Useful directory of companies and island-based businesses
FIRST COLUMN COURTESY OF FOUR SEASONS RESORT BALI AT SAYAN, SECOND COLUMN COURTESY OF FIVELEMENTS PURI AHIMSA, THIRD COLUMN COURTESY OF PADMA RESORT BALI
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THE SUN... THE SAND... THE SURF... THE CULTURE OF PARADISE AND OVER 18,000 SURROUNDING ISLANDS
contents 01.15 JANUARY 2015 Volume 16 No. 176
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60 BEYONDBALI
AIM & SHOOT!
The Bali Paintball Arena provides an ideal shooting range in the beautiful landscape of Ungasan’s limestone hill
A SURREAL SCENE Road trip, anyone? From Bali you can ‘pop over’ to East Java by car to visit the stunning Ijen Plateau
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CAPITALCORNER
THE DARLINGS OF JEWELRY DESIGN
These four talented Indonesian jewelry designers will blow you away with their creations 12
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TOP PHOTO BY PHIL GREEN BOTTOM PHOTO COURTESY OF BALI PAINTBALL ARENA
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ACTION&ATTRACTION
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PRIMEPROMOTION
MEET & GREET Although the Courtyard by Marriott Bali Seminyak attracts many leisure travelers, it also has ample facilities for hosting business travelers. The hotel offers 308 square meters of meeting spaces and a ballroom that fits up to 300 people, plus there’s currently a special running for a booking and stay period up to March 31. For groups of 20 or more, you can pay US$ 55 net per person and choose three out of 10 meeting perks available, including a massage corner during coffee breaks, five complimentary room upgrades, or triple Marriott Rewards points. Courtyard by Marriott Bali Seminyak Jalan Camplung Tanduk No. 103 SP, Seminyak (0363) 849-9600 www.marriott.com
GO WITH THE FLOW Escape to East Bali and take advantage of Villa Flow’s new wellness packages that are inspired by Balinese healing rituals, organic cuisine, restorative yoga and meditation. As a start to the new year, try their ‘Spiritual Bali’ package that includes a Balinese Water Purification Ceremony, said to cleanse physical and emotional trauma from the body (three nights at US$ 675 net per person). Alternatively, visit the boutique hideaway in Karangasem for a detox, to do yoga, or to try the ‘East Bali Adventure’ package that includes mountain biking through rice fields, a sunrise hike, and scuba diving (five nights at US$ 1,599 net per person). Villa Flow Bali West Seraya, Karangasem +62 81999454516, www.villaflowbali.com
Singapore Airlines Business Class customers can now enjoy the exquisite taste of the Prelude “Grands Crus” from Taittinger, made from the first pressings of an equal portion of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes selected from the best Grand Cru vineyards and aged for more than five years. Singapore Airlines is the only airline that serves the rare Grand Cru Red Burgundy and two prestige cuvées, Dom Perignon and Krug Grand Cuvee. Some 194,000 bottles of champagne are consumed on Singapore Airlines flights annually. www.singaporeair.com
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ALL COURTESY PHOTOS
AIR BUBBLES
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PRIMEPROMOTION
ROYAL PACKAGE If you’re thinking of honeymooning in Ubud, consider Alaya Ubud’s exclusive Royal Package. It includes romantic perks such as a Nasi Raja dinner with special Balinese decorations and a 2.5 hour ‘Palace Ritual’ spa treatment, and on top of that there are cultural visits that will make your experience extra memorable. You’ll take a guided tour of the 17th century Peliatan Royal Palace, famous for its beautiful Legong Kraton Dance and gamelan, and have the chance to meet Bali’s internationally acclaimed stone carver I Wayan Winten (creator of the Dewa Ruci statue). The 3-day 2-night package is US$ 1,400++/couple and valid until March 31. Alaya Ubud, Jalan Hanoman, Ubud (0361) 972-200, www.alayaubud.com
NEW IN JIMBARAN
BEAUTY SECRET Celebrating the 10th anniversary of Cellular Recovery Skin Bliss Capsules, Elemis has launched a limited edition package of two individual oversize jars, one pink (rose) and one green (lavender) of 60 capsules each, plus two mini travel pots perfect for when you are on the move. This skincare product with aroma-therapeutic power makes for a great gift, which you can find in the Grand Nikko Bali’s Mandara Spa for Rp. 1,440,000 net. Mandara Spa at Grand Nikko Bali Jalan Raya Nusa Dua Selatan, Nusa Dua (0361) 773-377, www.grandnikkobali.com
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ALL COURTESY PHOTOS
The quirky Fat Chow of Poppies Lane 2 in Kuta has opened a new branch in Jimbaran with a stunning view of Bali. Their tasty and non-pretentious menu of Asian comfort food is inspired by childhood favorites and street food, and the restaurant is currently offering a promo called ‘50 Days of Happiness’ where you can get 15% off your lunch (from 12 to 5 p.m.) by posting a photo of your meal on Facebook, Path or Instagram. This promo is valid until February 8 for minimum purchases of Rp. 100,000 (before tax). Fat Chow Temple Hill Jalan Raya Uluwatu No. 8D, www.fatchowbali.com
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NEW&NEWS
MIX & MINGLE A new dining option on Legian Street is the De Basilico Kitchen and Bar located on the ground floor of THE 101 Bali Legian. Open daily from 5 p.m. to 11 p.m., the restaurant features an inviting rustic wooden interior and the space itself is divided into three parts – the main area with its open kitchen, a deck, and a bar. We think that young travelers in Kuta are really going to dig this new place. De Basilico Kitchen and Bar Jalan Legian No. 117, Legian (0361) 300-1101, www.the101hotels.com
COMING SOON
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DOING THEIR PART In an effort to reduce its reliance on plastic water bottles, the Alila Villas Uluwatu now produces its own drinking water using a water purification system designed by Eco Pure Waters. Their large reverse osmosis plant is where filtration takes place, followed by UV sterilization and mineralization before being poured into recyclable glass bottles. This initiative not only reduces plastic bottle consumption but also reduces carbon emissions generated from transporting bottled mineral water to the resort. Bravo! Alila Villas Uluwatu Jalan Belimbing Sari, Pecatu (0361) 848-2166 www.alilahotels.com
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ALL COURTESY PHOTOS
The innovative hospitality group ARTOTEL Indonesia, known for boosting Indonesian contemporary artists by integrating their works into the interior design of their hotels, will be opening in Bali in 2015 after two successful locations in Jakarta and Surabaya. Located on Jalan Kusuma Sari, the boutique hotel ARTOTEL Sanur, Bali will feature 89 rooms, a rooftop pool, a restaurant, a spa, meeting facilities for up to 200 people, and of course an art gallery. The groundbreaking ceremony took place in December 2014 and the hotel is scheduled to open in late 2015. www.artotelindonesia.com
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NEW&NEWS
S.K.A.I.’S THE LIMIT Opening this month at Padma Bali is S.K.A.I. Beach Club (it stands for Sunset ‘Kocktail’ Alfresco Indulgence); a new place to enjoy designer cocktails, light bites and chill tunes from the live DJ while relishing the glow of the island’s beautiful sunset. The beach club features an edgy design from Singapore-based ARC22o2 Global Design Studio and is divided into indoor and outdoor areas with an infinity pool, cabanas and sun loungers that can accommodate up to 200 guests. We’re saying a hearty “Cheers!” to that. S.K.A.I. at Padma Resort Bali Jalan Padma No. 1, Legian (0361) 752-111 www.padmaresortbali.com
FAMILY RECIPES
MEET IN UBUD SenS Hotel & Spa + Conference Ubud Town Centre opened in December 2014 with 91 rooms, 6 suites, and MICE facilities that can accommodate up to 300 people. The hotel offers a team of event planners to assist you with your conference or event, and the location is very convenient – it is within walking distance from the Ubud Royal Palace, the Sacred Monkey Forest, museums, shops, cafés and bars. SenS Hotel & Spa + Conference Ubud Town Centre Jalan Sukma, Ubud (0361) 849-3328 www.senshotelsresorts.com
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ALL COURTESY PHOTOS
Kafe Batan Waru has been delivering delicious Indonesian food to customers in Ubud for almost two decades, and now we can enjoy their food down south at their newly opened branch in the Lippo Mall, Kuta! They do things the old-fashioned way, grinding spice paste with a mortar and pestle and freshly pressing their coconut milk. Their heirloom rice, herbs, vegetables and fruit come from local farmers and much of it is grown in the rich volcanic soil of organic farms in Kintamani. When you visit, don’t forget to order a delicious cup of Kintamani coffee to go with whatever it is you choose from their menu of local and international dishes! Kafe Batan Waru at Lippo Mall, Kuta Jalan Kartika Plaza, Kuta (0361) 897-8074 www.batanwaru.com
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CRAFT&CULTURE
TRUNYAN’S ANCIENT MYTHOLOGY WE TAKE A LOOK AT A SPECIAL CEREMONY HONORING BALI MULA MYTHOLOGY, WHICH IS DEDICATED TO ENSURING FERTILITY FOR THE VILLAGE’S INHABITANTS. believed to be the ancestors of the Trunyan people. In Trunyan mythology Ratu Ayu Pingit Dalem Dasar was the daughter of a goddess who had descended to the earth and was impregnated by the god of the sun. She married Ratu Sakti Pancering Jagat (or Betara Da Tonta), the eldest son of King Dalem Solo. Betara Da Tonta is considered to be a manifestation of Sang Hyang Widhi Wasa (God Almighty). The Barong Brutuk performance is a form of worship to their supreme god Betara Da Tonta and is dedicated to increasing fertility in the Trunyan village.
T
ADOLESCENT DANCERS runyan is a village
October 2014 was an auspicious
The holy Barong Brutuk performance
located in the crater
time for the Bali Mula to hold the
is a dance by adolescent Trunyan
area of Mount Batur that
Saba Gede temple ceremony for
boys who are first quarantined for
is inhabited by the Bali
their gods. The celebration was
42 days, during which time they are
Mula. The Bali Mula are
held for one month, ending with the
not allowed to consume alcoholic
Barong Brutuk performance. Brutuk is
drinks, gamble or date. They stay in
believe their ancestors descended
derived from the words baru tuwuk,
quarters called bangsal pekemitan
directly from heaven, while the
meaning ‘to meet.’ This performance
that are built specifically for the
ancestors of the mainland Balinese
symbolizes the meeting between
Kapat Lanang ceremony.
migrated from Java bringing
Ratu Ayu Pingit Dalem Dasar and
Majapahit Hindusim to the island.
Ratu Sakti Pancering Jagat, who are
the original inhabitants of Bali who
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Prior to their performance, the youth take off their normal clothes
and are dressed by the pedulu (traditional village council members). A loincloth made of new fabric is put on them and two sheets of selibah made from dried banana trunk skin are slung over the upper part of their body. Then strings of dried banana leaves or keraras – the main material of the Barong Brutuk costume – are attached to the selibah. Afterwards, the dancers are covered with wet powder – a mixture of white clay, turmeric, rice powder and fragrant oil. They carry 7 meter-long whips and wear masks representing the gods in Trunyan mythology – Betara Da Tonta and his
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queen Ratu Ayu Pingit Dalem Dasar,
WHIP LASHES AS A ‘CURE’ When the dancers enter the open stage in the outer part of the Pancering Jagat Village Temple (built in 10th century AD or 833 Çaka according to the Balinese calendar), the audience shouts out, “Meriki tu,
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PHOTOS BY ANGGARA MAHENDRA
as well as his ministers and guards.
AT THE PANCERING JAGAT VILLAGE TEMPLE (BUILT IN 10TH CENTURY AD OR 833 ÇAKA ACCORDING TO THE BALINESE CALENDAR) THE AUDIENCE SHOUTS OUT, “MERIKI TU, MERIKI” MEANING “COME HERE PLEASE, COME HERE,” WHICH IS THEN ANSWERED BY THE BARONG BRUTUK WITH WHIPPING
meriki” meaning “Come here please,
At the end of the performance the
come here,” which is then answered
Barong Brutuk dancers perform the
by the Barong Brutuk with whipping.
metambak procession, which is a
remaining unmarried for the rest of their lives. At the end of the performance
love scene between Betara Da Tonta
both characters embrace, then
a method to ensure fertility. Some
and Ratu Ayu Pingit Dalem Dasar.
dressed only in their loincloths, they
women make offerings in the form of
This final scene is considered to be
run into the lake to bathe and purify
sesari (donation money), cigarettes or
very important because it determines
themselves. Before leaving the lake
energy drinks for the Barong Brutuk,
the fertility of the universe and all
there is a small selamatan ceremony
and then tear a little piece off of the
its contents. If this scene fails, it is
done to return the masks to their
keraras leaves worn by the Barong
believed that the dancers will
large bamboo basket.
Brutuk to be used as a talisman.
suffer the unfortunate fate of
By Dewa Ayu Eka Putri
The whipping is believed to be
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LIFESTYLE&LEISURE
THE NEW MAESTROS By Joseph Wang
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A LOOK AT MODERN BALINESE ART AND WHERE TO FIND IT AMONG THE MANY GALLERIES IN UBUD.
T
he people of Bali are
(16th to 20th century) during the
known for their strong art
time of the Klungkung Kingdom
sense, and the beauty of
when art was primarily meant for
the Balinese landscape
ceremonial purposes. The classical
along with the rich culture
‘Kamasan’ painting style usually
make for plenty of painting subjects. Ubud, with its royal palaces and
depicts the epics of Mahabharata and Ramayana. It has very strict
grand temples, has been considered
guidelines and was normally
the center of Bali’s art scene for
drawn on cloth or bark paper using
centuries. It is not surprising that
natural dyes.
modern Balinese art blossomed
When artists such as Walter
here first.
Spies, Rudolf Bonnet, Arie Smit and
Prior to the era of modern Balinese art (early 20th century
Adrian-Jean Le Mayeur came to
until now) was the classical era
started to modernize the art form.
Bali in the early 20th century, they
Clockwise from far left: Artwork by I Ketut Soki (Neka Art Museum), I Nyoman Meja and I Ketut Budiana (Museum Puri Lukisan)
Story has it that in the early 60’s, Arie Smit saw two boys drawing in the sand when he was taking a walk in Penestanan village in Ubud. Amazed by their talent, he encouraged them to create by giving them paper and paint. Arie Smit never made any suggestions regarding the subjects or colors they chose, being very careful not to interfere with their artistic interpretation, nor did he allow the boys to see his paintings. This resulted in childlike paintings
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on canvas with bright colors
the oldest art museum in Bali. Their
and less details – still very much
first collection consisted of paintings
Balinese but with day-to-day life and
donated by Rudolf Bonnet along with
scenery as the subjects. This is what
other artists and friends who wanted
eventually led up to the ‘Young Artist
to help the museum.
movement’.
Located near the Ubud Palace
Notable artists of this movement
and the Ubud Art Market, this
include I Ketut Soki, I Ketut Tagen,
museum is comprised of three
and I Wayan Pugur, just to name a
main buildings that surround a
few. Their paintings can be found
serene lotus pond and manicured
at the Museum Puri Lukisan and the
gardens. The Pitamaha Gallery is
Neka Art Museum.
dedicated to ‘modern-traditional’ Balinese paintings (1930-1945)
MUSEUM PURI LUKISAN
while the Ida Bagus Made Gallery
Open since January 31, 1956, the
paintings from 1945 to the present
Museum Puri Lukisan is officially
day. The third building is the
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BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2015
houses ‘modern-traditional’ Balinese
Wayang Gallery, which is used for
parking lot for its visitors.
Aside from the paintings of
shadow puppets and temporary exhibitions.
Indonesian artists, this museum Museum Puri Lukisan
also houses the works of foreign
Jalan Raya Ubud, Ubud
artists who resided in Indonesia such
person while children under 12 enter
(0361) 971-159
as Arie Smit, Rudolf Bonnet, Antonio
for free (this arrangement does not
www.museumpurilukisan.com
Blanco and Miguel Covarrubias.
Tickets are Rp. 50,000 per
apply to groups). The museum is open daily from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. except for the Balinese holidays of Nyepi, Galungan and Kuningan. Museum Puri Lukisan also offers a wide range of art workshops, gamelan classes, and shadow puppet making classes that are a separate package from the admission fee. And quite conveniently, there is a spacious
Clockwise from far left: A row of sacred keris, the entrance to the Neka Art Museum, a painting by I Ketut Tagen at the Neka Art Museum
NEKA ART MUSEUM
The museum is open on
This art museum was built in 1982
Monday to Saturday from 9 a.m. to
and currently houses up to 300
5 p.m. and on Sunday from noon
artworks. The Neka Art Museum
until 5 p.m., but closed on public
not only has paintings but also a
holidays. The admission fee for
collection of keris or Indonesian
adults is Rp. 50,000
traditional daggers, some of which
while children under 12 enter
are so sacred that they have a
for free. After making your way
dedicated exhibition room.
through the museum, you can also
The Neka Art Museum is arranged to showcase the
Campuhan Valley prior to heading
development of Balinese paintings.
home. „
If you follow the recommended route, the exhibition will start
Neka Art Museum
with Kamasan style paintings and
Jalan Raya Campuhan, Ubud
continue to the more modern styles
(0361) 975-074
of Balinese paintings.
www.museumneka.com
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PHOTOS BY JOSEPH WANG
enjoy the view of the beautiful
DINE&DELIGHTS The jungle serves as the perfect backdrop for your rijsttafel dinner
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BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2015
A GRAND FEAST
RIJSTTAFEL, A LEGACY LEFT BEHIND BY THE DUTCH, SHOWCASES THE RICH VARIETY OF INDONESIAN CUISINE AND CAN ONLY BE FOUND IN SELECT RESTAURANTS THESE DAYS. By Joseph Wang
T
he Indonesian
because it is a reminder of the Dutch
beef dendeng and serapah cumi,
archipelago spans over
colonial times. However, there are a
or Kalimantan calamari stuffed
5,000 kilometers along
number of fine dining establishments
with minced fish and served with
the equator, and being
that offer this experience in Bali
curry sauce. The experience then
rich in spices it has seen
and we’ve listed a few of the most
concludes with three choices of
a number of European countries on its soil since the 16th century.
outstanding ones here for you.
desserts – pandan and kopyor ice
These same spices are what make
AYUNG TERRACE
the food culture in Indonesia so
If your accommodations are located
unique, and it varies incredibly from
outside of the Ubud area, it is worth
the former First Lady of Indonesia
region to region.
it to travel to Ubud just to enjoy the
Ani Yudhoyono to serve to state
cream, layered rice cake and klepet bugis. This rijsttafel was selected by
sheer beauty of the Four Seasons
guests during the APEC conference
AN INTRICATE FEAST
Resort Bali at Sayan. Add to that
in Bali in October 2013, and you
Rijsttafel, literary translated as
an exquisite rijsttafel dinner and
too can experience it on Monday
‘rice table’, is a tradition dating
the resort’s signature warm service,
evenings for Rp. 630,000++ per
back to Dutch colonial times where
and you’ve got the recipe for a most
person (reservations are essential).
numerous Indonesian dishes would
lovely night out.
As a tip for outside guests, come
be presented during one meal.
Their rijsttafel dinner is served at
early (around 6 p.m.) to catch
Back then it was not unheard of to
the Ayung Terrace and starts with
the Balinese dances that are held
serve up to 40 types of dishes, with
delicious homemade prawn and
at the Jati Bar, and performed by
every bowl presented by a different
cassava crackers and a plate of
members of the local community in
Indonesian server. The feast was
small appetizers. This is followed by
front of a gorgeous backdrop of
aimed to showcase the richness of
prawn soup and a selection of white,
jungle foliage.
Indonesian dishes, the textures, the
brown or yellow rice. Soon after,
flavors and all the different spices
a number of dishes are delivered
Four Seasons Resort Bali at Sayan
that Indonesian soil has to offer.
consecutively to your table and you
Jalan Raya Sayan, Ubud
will be asked whether you would
(0361) 977-577
like to sample them, including crispy
www.fourseasons.com/sayan
These days, rijsttafel is not so easily found in Indonesia, partly
BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2015
31
the taliwang chicken and grilled konro are particular standouts. The meal of course comes with a side of rice and sambal, and there is also a dedicated cracker station with an assortment of Indonesian crackers to choose from. Dessert is also served on a dulang, and you’ll have the opportunity to sample es campur and lumpia pisang as well as six other options. Civet coffee or kopi
DULANG RESTAURANT
can also look forward to The St.
luwak and Balinese brem (a type of
Located amidst lush tropical gardens,
Regis’ signature bespoke service.
local rice wine) are also included in
The rijsttafel starts with jamu,
the experience. At Rp. 595,000 nett
Bali Resort’s dedicated rijsttafel
a traditional drink made from
per person, Dulang offers a meal fit
restaurant that is open only for
turmeric, tamarind and honey,
for a king indeed.
dinner. The secluded and romantic
and continues with oxtail soup.
setting includes a hand-painted floor
Afterwards, a dulang (a large plate
The St. Regis Bali Resort
and a wooden pavilion reminiscent
used in the past to serve kings and
BTDC Lot S6, Nusa Dua
of colonial days long gone by. Aside
queens) with eight different dishes
(0361) 847-8111
from the best Indonesian dishes you
is brought out, and of those dishes
www.stregisbali.com
32
BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2015
ALL PHOTOS COURTESY
the Dulang restaurant is The St. Regis
LONG RICE TABLE Located in Kuta, The Stones Hotel – Legian Bali, Autograph Collection, offers a quiet environment in the middle of a busy neighborhood. This hotel serves rijsttafel for dinner at its Indonesian restaurant called the Long Rice Table. This modern contemporary restaurant is actually where the hotel serves breakfast to in-house guests every morning, but it transforms into a completely different setting once dinnertime rolls around. The rijsttafel starts with Jakarta beef and coconut soup followed by eight kinds of Indonesian dishes served on a small plate (including beef rendang, voted ‘The World’s
Most Delicious Food’ by CNNGo readers in 2011), as well as condiments, white rice and yellow rice. This is followed by three choices of dessert, including grilled cassava with shredded coconut, and The Stones’ special blend of coffee or tea. For Rp. 580,000++ for two persons, this is an experience not to be missed. The Stones Hotel Legian Jalan Raya Pantai Kuta, Legian (0361) 300-5888 www.marriott.com
BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2015
33
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BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2015
BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2015
35
PROFILE&PORTRAIT
A DEEPER UNDERSTANDING WE CHAT WITH INDRA TJAHJANI, THE FOUNDER OF MBATIKYUUUK, ABOUT THE MEANING BEHIND BATIK PATTERNS AND HER MISSION TO SHARE BATIK KNOWLEDGE WITH INDONESIA’S YOUTH.
more about batik can attend my workshops. We’ve had a four yearold child and even a 72 year-old man. Aside from students, employees of multinational companies such as Total Oil, Exxon Mobil, Nestle and General Electric have participated, as well as the Canadian Embassy and students of Fashion & Business at Queensland University of Technology. BB: Please tell us about your most memorable MbatikYuuuk experience. IT: I think seeing with my own eyes the batik artists making handwritten batik in the village… It is amazing what they do and how patient they are. I believe that batik-ing is a kind of meditation process. BB: What is unique about batik canting? IT: Before I answer that, I want to tell you that ‘to batik’ is to make patterns using malam, or wax, and a tool that’s called canting. If the process is without malam, it should not be called batik. No batik canting piece
Bali & Beyond (BB): Could you share
‘Griya Peni – Mbatik Yuuuk’ with
Similar yes, but not the exact same
with our readers how ‘MbatikYuuuk’
the mission of teaching the young
pattern. These subtle differences
came to be?
generation about the wonders
are what make batik canting pieces
Indra Tjahjani (IT): It started in
of Indonesian cultural heritage,
unique.
2000 – many of my students did
especially batik.
not know enough about Indonesian
BB: What is your favorite batik
culture to do their assignments, so I
BB: Who usually attends your
pattern and why?
decided to introduce them to various
workshops? Is it mainly students or
IT: It is hard to choose just one
aspects of our cultural heritage. From
do organizations participate as well?
because each batik pattern has a
October 2008 I named our activities
IT: Anyone who is interested to know
different philosophy. ‘Kart Jagad’
36
BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2015
PHOTOS COURTESY OF MBATIKYUUUK
can be 100% the same as another.
1
appearances and the meaning
the Royal Family, but if you browse
behind them?
the Internet you’ll find that celebrity
IT: The pattern worn during the
Jessica Alba has worn a modern
President’s meeting with Tony Abbott
dress with this pattern. Also, some
is a classic Solo pattern called
people do not realize that certain
‘Pisan Bali,’ 2 and the meaning
patterns need to be facing up. In the
behind it is ‘If you’ve already
‘Wahyu Tumurun’ pattern the crown
received an opportunity hopefully
should be facing up, and for the
you will get more and more.’
‘Semen Romo’ pattern the Garuda
Another pattern worn recently is
wing has to be facing up because
the classic Cirebon pattern ‘Singa
birds always fly towards the sky.
Barong,’ 3 with the meaning ‘We
The same goes for the ‘Sido Mukti,’
shall always win/be strong/be
‘Sido Mulyo’ and ‘Sido Luhur’
glorious in the sea (the head of
patterns.
elephant), on land (the lion body)
3
and in the sky (the Garuda wing).’ or sometimes referred to as ‘Sekar Jagad’ has the meaning ‘May you
BB: Many companies in Indonesia
conquer the world.’ Amazing isn’t
require their employees to wear
it? 1 I love this pattern because
batik on specified days, like on
it’s in line with my wish to travel
Friday. Do you think this has helped
the world introducing people to
to spread appreciation for batik?
Indonesian culture… Who knows,
IT: I believe it’s a start to ask
one day someone might be willing to
Indonesian people to appreciate
be my sponsor!
their own culture, and of course I hope this requirement later
BB: What are your recommendations
BB: What can you tell us about the
pushes people to invest in better
for our readers who would like to
batik patterns that President Joko
quality batik.
learn more about Indonesian batik? IT: If you want to know more
Widodo has been wearing at public 2
BB: Is there any wrong way to
about Indonesian cultural heritage,
wear batik?
especially batik, you should
IT: Yes, as many people do not
experience making batik but also
know that certain patterns have
learn about the meaning behind
special meanings and have
each pattern. We love to share and
been designed for people of a
can arrange private classes. Please
certain rank, like for the Sultan
visit our website www.mbatikyuuuk.
of Yogyakarta or for the Royal
com. I’ve also written a book called
Family. These are called ‘larangan’
‘Yuk, Mbatik!’ that is available at
patterns, or prohibited patterns.
Gramedia bookstores, but it is in
For example, the ‘Parang Barong’
Bahasa Indonesia.
pattern is actually meant only for
By Mutia Adisoma
BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2015
37
IF YOU FAVOR INCONSPICUOUS OR PLAIN SMARTPHONE CASES, YOU MIGHT CHANGE YOUR MIND AFTER SEEING THE ONES MADE BY BATIKGEEK.
B
rowsing through the
trees, needing just a few years to be
numerous stalls at the recent
harvested while other trees require tens
LocalTaste fair at Lippo Mall
of years.”
Kemang (Jakarta), I found a plethora of goods made with
Product specifications
love by aspiring local designers, from trendy
• Made from high quality bamboo
platform shoes to Herschel-esque backpacks to
• Engraved artwork with excellent detail
intricate handmade jewelry. I also came across a gem
• Eco-friendly
of a brand based out of Bandung (in West Java) called
• Easy access to device buttons
BatikGeek, which makes unique smartphone cases out of bamboo and I thought, “What a perfect fit for our
Price
January edition theme!”
Rp. 350,000 – 380,000 for smartphones In the words of the
Rp. 420,000 – 500,000 for tablets
BatikGeek founders:
Available for
“We are passionate
• Apple iPhone 4, 4s, 5, 5s, 6, 6
about gadgets and batik.
Plus, iPad Mini
We wanted to make
• Samsung Galaxy S4, S5, Note
Indonesian local art a
1, Note 2, Note 3
part of the life of urban
• Sony Xperia Z1, LG Nexus 5
dwellers, most of who
(Google Nexus 5)
cannot be separated from As of now they don’t have any
their handheld gadgets.
brick-and-mortar shops, but
We provide gadget accessories with Indonesian artwork made by local artists, and the patterns and illustrations
you can order online and they can ship anywhere in
we offer are a contemporary version of Indonesian
Indonesia and even internationally! For customers in
heritage. In our design process we paid close attention
Bandung, there is even the option of COD (Cash on
to the philosophy and heritage values, then combined
Delivery).
them with a ‘pop’ style design. And we chose bamboo
By Mutia Adisoma
because it’s eco-friendly and it grows faster than other BatikGeek +62 85641333258 / 85642086262 www.batikgeek.com Twitter / Instagram @batikgeek
38
BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2015
PHOTOS COURTESY OF BATIKGEEK
SHOPPINGSPREE
COOL CASINGS
BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2015
39
INVITE&INDULGE
THE MAGIC TOUCH
CONTRIBUTOR KATIE TRUMAN DISCOVERS MIND-BLOWING SPIRITUAL HEALING RITUALS IN UBUD.
Y
ou go to the dentist to
A HEALING HOTEL
designed grounds amidst Mambal’s
get your teeth fixed, to
One of Bali’s two Healing Hotels of
rain-forested hills, practically induces
the salon to get waxed
the World, Fivelements is founded
regeneration and spiritual harmony.
and to the doctor
on deeply rooted Balinese traditions
for health problems,
and eco-conscious principals,
is ‘Healing Rituals,’ administered
but where do you go for heavy-
nurturing the body, mind and spirit
by authentic native healers using
duty healing and spiritual ‘spring
with ancient Balinese rituals and
ancient wisdom passed down
cleaning’? The answer to that would
therapies, healing practices, gourmet
through generations of Balinese
be to the Fivelements Puri Ahimsa in
vegan foods and sacred arts. Even
families and engaging the help of
Ubud, or more specifically, to Pak
the setting, a rustic (albeit luxurious)
higher divine sources while following
Wayan.
retreat on sacred Balinese Vastu-
indigenous Sekala-Niskala principals
40
BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2015
Award-winning Fivelements’ forte
(parallel conscious and psychic
everything on Fivelement’s healing
worlds). Healing Rituals combines
and spa menu, took place in one of
meditation, deep body work and
their private healing huts along the
Prana energy, but ‘Healing Energy’
banks of the Ayung River, with semi-
is their heavy-duty signature that
open bathtubs crafted in polished
provides out-of-world experiences
bamboo, reclaimed wood and spiral
with spiritual healing and cleansing.
thatched roofs. In a pre-session
This includes ‘Chakra Balancing,’
consultation I revealed that I sensed
which re-activates and balances
there was bad energy within me
the body’s seven energy centers
and needed it taken out. Then I lied
(Chakras) and ‘Prana Healing,’
motionless with my eyes closed
which scans and clears the aura
on a low-level bed, consumed in
of any imbalances. However, for
swirling incense.
the two sessions I experienced at
After initial prayers, meditation
Fivelements, I opted for the mind-
and a spine-tingling “Ohmmm,” Pak
blowing and powerful Panca
Wayan got to work balancing my
Mahabhuta or ‘Five Elements’
body’s five elements (or microcosm,
(Rp. 1,250,000++), where for 90
buana alit) then channeled a
minutes local healer Pak Wayan
connection with the universe’s five
AN ‘UPLIFTING’ EXPERIENCE
balanced the five elements of earth,
elements (or macrocosm, buana
Succumbing to a deep trance and
water, fire, air and ether within the
agung), uniting them to create an
what sounded to my ears like Native
body as well as cleared unhealthy
almighty harmony. Passing his
American chanting, I could feel the
energy originating from emotional
hands over my body, he looked to
young healer physically shake as he
and mental burdens and physical
locate and clear out all unhealthy
clasped his hands on my head and
demons. Just what the doctor
emotional, physical and mental bad
upper body.
ordered!
energy that had accumulated.
It was an uplifting experience
IT’S ALL ELEMENTARY Rewind to my first session three years ago: My first impression of Pak Wayan was that he not only looked alarmingly young for a healer, but was also a tad ‘too handsome’. I was assured he was the real-deal – almost priest-like, as he was initiated into energy healing by his father at an early age and is a native of Nusa Penida, a small island off Bali’s southern coast renowned for its gifted healers. My customized treatment, like
BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2015
41
Pak Wayan balances the five elements of earth, water, fire, air and ether within the body as well as clears unhealthy energy from emotional and mental burdens and physical demons.
jolt was the precise moment the bad
out of a deep slumber maybe half
energy flew out of my body.
and don’t think too much.
breath and suddenly jolted upwards,
nervously enquired. Pak Wayan
A POWERFUL ENERGY
before landing back on the bed,
hesitated, shooting me a half-
Fast forward to late 2014 when I
re-awakened – literally – in every
smile, and confirmed, “Yes,
booked another session with the
sense. During the post-session
you’re balanced.” He also offered
same healer, but this time apart
consultation, Pak Wayan informed
suggestions related to my health and
from the usual proceedings, things
me via a translator that my sudden
well-being: stretch more, meditate
were different. Pak Wayan’s English
an hour in, I took a sharp intake of
“But am I balanced now?” I
42
BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2015
PHOTOS COURTESY OF FIVELEMENTS
in more ways than one. As if lulled
heating up like a Korean barbecue; my toes felt almost aflame. Post-session (sipping on ginger tea), Pak Wayan disclosed that he hadn’t detected any bad energy but had helped to improve my blood circulation. Again he advised, “Stretch more, meditate and don’t think so much.” Oh, and he also opened up all my Chakras. I left feeling spiritually rejuvenated and primed for anything. And what a feeling to have – in this fast-paced and had dramatically improved so there
running blood circulation problem.
competitive world, it’s vitally
was no need for a translator, and I
After silent bouts of meditation, Pak
important to have all your Chakras
noticed that he smiled more.
Wayan latched onto the ailment and
open.
while chanting, redirected my blood
By Katie Truman
Three years later I didn’t think there was any bad energy lurking about but asked him to check
flow like a traffic policeman. Fivelements Puri Ahimsa
I felt his powerful energy
anyway, remarking, “I’m sure you’ll
channeling through my chest so
Banjar Baturning, Mambal
find lots of other stuff.” And find
strongly that the blood felt like it
(0361) 469-206
stuff he did, including my long-
was hurtling around my body and
www.fivelements.org
BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2015
43
ck at SKY. The from the wedding de Late afternoon scene but apparently it’s g, win sho this in for green canopy was put d Spa Bali). (at AYANA Resort an available on request
Many of the employees at the John Hardy workshop carve the handles of their own hand tools. There’s just so much creativity flowing abou t there.
Yogi… é in Ubud called Frozen Found this sign at a caf m! there’s truth to the sarcas
t Ponco Setyohadi’s We attended the opening for artis had no idea he would and ’ ation sform Tran exhibition ‘My there would be dancers and be live painting in water, or that at the Le Méridien Bali bited live musicians! His art was exhi Jimbaran until Dec 26. 44
BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2015
PONCO SETYOHADI AND SKY PHOTOS BY MUTIA ADISOMA, ALL OTHERS BY JOSEPH WANG
SIGHTS&SOUNDS
Our cork board of photos, quotes and fun facts that we picked up while exploring in November and December...
Follow us on Instagram!
Calling all Instagram lov ers! Did you know we have an Instagram account? Fol low @baliandbeyondm agazine for vibrant photos from our magazine and unp ublished snapshots from our tea m!
d at the Grand party we attende Snapped this at a dedicated urse there was a Hyatt Bali. Of co mbal – we sa d an ers ck d cra station for assorte them! can’t live without Indonesians just
We love the bright and spacious interior at Hbsejo, next to Mirror (Petitenget Street).
Our snapshot of the new Seminyak club Mirror. It is equa lly, if not more, im pressive at night.
BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2015
45
REST&RELAXATION
A HINT OF THE ORIENT
T
he first of Thailand’s
intimate villa property. It’s an ideal
and three-bedroom pool villas. Upon
Centara brand in Bali,
option for those craving a quiet
pushing open the wooden double
the Centara Grand Villas
escape from the day-to-day demands
doors of a One Bedroom Luxury Pool
Nusa Dua officially
of their profession, and especially
Villa, you’ll instantly breathe a sigh
opened in August 2014
nice for couples who are looking to
of relief as you’re greeted by the
spend quality time together.
view of open space.
in the exclusive BTDC enclave of Nusa Dua. With just 14 pool villas
Boasting 225 square meters of
that are tucked away in tropical
ROOM TO BREATHE
living space, the villa has an outdoor
gardens, at times it can feel as
The walkway is flanked by lush
area with an open-air kitchen
though you are the only guest at this
gardens and leads to the one, two
and table, a pool with a waterfall
46
BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2015
TABLE DETAIL PHOTO BY MUTIA ADISOMA ALL OTHERS COURTESY OF CENTARA
THE ‘PERANAKAN’ HERITAGE INFLUENCES THE NEW CENTARA GRAND VILLAS NUSA DUA, A REFRESHING OPTION FOR THOSE LOOKING FOR A UNIQUE AND SURPRISINGLY ROMANTIC VILLA.
feature, two loungers and a sundeck,
Pool Villas are perfect for families
perfect for laying out or doing a bit
and groups of up to four adults and
of yoga. Glass doors lead to the
three children, while the resort’s
sleeping quarters where a plush
one and only Three Bedroom Luxury
bed, a desk, and ample seating for
Pool Villa provides over 680 square
reading and lounging await.
meters of living space and can
Most notable perhaps is the
accommodate up to six adults and
bathroom, located partly indoors
two children. All villas are designed
but with doors that open up to an
with Peranakan accents per the
impossibly romantic outdoor bathing
special request of the villa property
area with a shower and a circular
owners.
freestanding bathtub, which can be sealed off with sheer white curtains
PERANAKAN STYLE
or left open to enjoy the view of the
It is quite rare to find
pool’s waterfall. As an added bonus,
accommodations that pay homage
the bathroom amenities are all from
to Indonesia’s Peranakan history – a
Salvatore Ferragamo.
blend of Chinese and Indonesian
The larger Two Bedroom Luxury
culture that came about in the 15th
BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2015
47
to 17th centuries when Chinese immigrants settled in the Indonesian
paintings of misty mountain scenes. Their spa also honors this history
archipelago. However, the Centara
with their signature treatment
Grand Villas Nusa Dua does so
‘The Peranakan Heritage’. The
by showcasing beautiful teak and
experience begins with a ‘Malay
rosewood furnishings (some with
Lulur’ scrub of ground rice, turmeric,
intricate carved detailing), bronze
nutmeg and galangal, and continues
accessories on the walls, antique
with a bath in lemon verbena
wooden sculptures, and gold leaf
floral tea (a Chinese remedy for
48
BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2015
eradicating negative energy that is traditionally done during New Year’s to promote good health). The finale to this treatment is the ‘Urut Melayu’ massage, which uses fragrant rose oils to promote relaxation, followed by an organic mulberry facial pouch to impart cooling energy. Also not to miss is their Ru Yi restaurant with its delicious menu of mainland China and Hong Kong cuisine. Their ‘Discovery Menu’ (Rp. 288,000++/person) comes highly recommended with seven courses for you to discover, including delicious
fried prawns cooked in salted egg and adventurous delicacies with intriguing textures like their spicy jellyfish. Spa Cenvaree and the Ru Yi restaurant are open to both in-house and outside guests. Although Centara is not beach front, it does have a complimentary shuttle that can take guests to Nusa Dua Beach where the resort has its own beach club. Compared to some other BTDC properties Centara Grand Villas Nusa Dua may be small, but their warm hospitality and homey atmosphere are a welcome addition to the neighborhood. By Mutia Adisoma Centara Grand Villas Nusa Dua BTDC Lot NW 2 & 3, Nusa Dua (0361) 773-300 www.centarahotelsresorts.com
BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2015
49
PONDERINGPOINT
A MODERN AFFLICTION
commended her on “how well she had done” as if we
CONTRIBUTOR KATIE TRUMAN CONTEMPLATES THE PERVASIVE USE OF SMARTPHONES… WHILE BEGGING US ALL TO PLEASE, LOOK UP!
assertion of power, i.e. Look how important I am, I must
M
had just weaned her off a life threatening addiction. In some cases, smartphone misuse is like a modern check my messages because I’m indispensable at my job, or, Look at me, I’m so popular within my social network. True, some people are company big shots or in the first flush of love, making it necessary to obsessively check messages. But surely not all of us are dictated to
aybe it’s because I’m old-school British and was taught that good
by Wall Street or by our hearts! If we think it’s bad in Indonesia, it seems to be the
grace, manners and conversation
same sad story elsewhere (although I’ve heard that the
are of paramount importance,
unfailingly polite Japanese keep their phones turned off
but I suspect that people half my
and in their bags when out in company).
age from anywhere in the world would agree that it
In Sydney I noticed school friends congregating
is a scary addiction to always be looking down at
at Starbucks and other locales, sitting together yet
smartphone screens.
completely emotionally detached as they were wrapped
As magical as this tropical island can be, it is
up in their cyber pals and not their real ones.
unfortunately not immune to this modern scourge. The
In Singapore I find myself constantly tripping over
overuse of smartphones and slavish obsession with
or bumping into Singaporeans looking down at their
checking emails, text messages, Twitter, Instagram and
screens while walking around town. It beats me why
Facebook is definitely prevalent here as well. Social
there aren’t more accidents or cases of people falling
media? More like anti-social media!
down potholes (but then I remember, Singapore doesn’t
On numerous occasions I’ve seen couples on dinner dates with both looking down at their screens rather than
have potholes). As for checking messages just before take-off or
gazing into each other’s eyes or at the stunning sunset,
nanoseconds after the airplane lands, don’t get me
and groups of friends out at parties, social gatherings
started! No, no, don’t worry about passenger safety,
or fashion shows all checking their messages. I assume
your latest messages are far more important…
they are doing so to contact more friends, but it makes
I’m incredulous that people want to live their lives
me wonder whether they are not happy with the ones
missing out on the art of conversation, friendship or a
already with them.
handsome stranger’s face, especially in a place that
On one occasion, I visited a professional healer who
emanates natural beauty like Bali. However, I must
checked their phone while simultaneously concluding
confess that I’ve craftily learned to use this modern
my healing session with the prognosis. And worse,
affliction to my own advantage in sticky situations.
a businessman suitor continually flicked through his
In my regular scenario of getting lost in Singapore,
messages while I was revealing my life story on our first
when I frantically approach locals on the street for
date (that was a complete no-no… Next!).
directions, they’ll kindly turn to their smartphones to
A friend of mine has the unfortunate habit of cutting
locate my destination quicker than I can say “Where
me off mid-sentence to obsessively check work messages
is it?” And when I am flying solo at a Bali function or
or even arrange her work schedule while I sit opposite
waiting on someone who is running very late, I put my
her in increasingly frustrated silence. I recently invited this
head down too, pretending to be deep in message
pal to accompany me on an upscale restaurant review
land. I’ve found this helps to stave off boredom, or any
on the condition that she keep her phone switched off
anticipated looks of pity.
and in her bag, and after she successfully managed this task (surprising me, but even more, herself) I ridiculously
50
Well, if you can’t beat ‘em, might as well join ‘em. By Katie Truman
BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2015
BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2015
51
LITTLELOVES
SEMINYAK’S NEWCOMERS CONTRIBUTOR ARIKO AHMAD HAS ZIGZAGGED AROUND TOWN ON HIS SCOOTER TO CHECK OUT THE NEWCOMERS IN SEMINYAK AND SHARE HIS FAVORITES WITH YOU.
Gardin’s signature Lamb Rack cooked to perfect tenderness
52
BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2015
I
t seemed as though new restaurants and hangouts were popping up almost weekly in Seminyak during the second half of 2014. So much so that it
can be hard to decide which ones to try first or where to start. For those who need some help, I’ve compiled a handful that really stood out for me. I’ve even taken
Delicious options from Sisterfield’s menu
the liberty of matching each place to a likely situation you might find
restaurant and club combo offers a
gin-based cocktail featuring a mix
yourself in while in Bali. So if
unique experience where culinary
of cucumber, mint and zesty lemon.
you need a brunch nook, a cozy
treats meet sophistication and fun.
Another Gardin cocktail worth
hangout, a place for pre-drinks or a
The Gardin restaurant presents a
mentioning is their Irish Tiramisu
table for two, I’ve got you covered!
wide range of delectable Indonesian
(Rp. 125,000++), a sweet but lethal
and European dishes that are simple
concoction of Bailey’s Irish cream,
FOR PRE-DRINKS & DANCING
but presented with a unique twist.
Kahlua peanut liqueur and vanilla
If you find yourself in a situation
their signature Lamb Rack (Rp.
where you want to have dinner and
228,000++), which is cooked to
for a night of partying, all you need
pre-drinks before hitting a club but
perfect tenderness. It comes with
to do is head to the back of Gardin
don’t want to travel far between
savory potato gratin, roast garlic
and into their Mirror club. This brand
the two places, just remember these
sauce and crunchy asparagus. Pair
new club will definitely amaze you
words: Gardin and Mirror.
this dish with the Gardin of Eden
with its grand décor, superb lighting
(Rp. 125,000++), their signature
and thumping beats. Just remember
Located on Petitenget Street, this
A personal favorite of mine is
ice cream. Once you are nicely warmed up
to leave your flip-flops and Bintang singlets at home (after all, you are in Seminyak). Open daily from 11 a.m. to 1 a.m. Gardin Bistro & Patisserie And Mirror Lounge & Club Jalan Petitenget No. 106, Seminyak (0361) 849-9799 www.facebook.com/gardinbali
FOR BRUNCH Sisterfields has quickly gained a reputation as one of the best places for brunch in Seminyak, offering a
BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2015
53
FOR TWO Having already gained recognition in Singapore as one of the best places to dine out, Kilo has spread its wings and landed on this paradise island. Tucked away on Drupadi Street and offering a stylish ambience, this new restaurant presents a unique sharing concept that combines all the best parts of Mexican, Italian and another winner. As for drinks, try their healthy
Japanese cuisine. Kilo is definitely the one to try if you’re looking
casual yet chic Melbourne feel and a
juice with spinach, green apple,
for somewhere to take a special
menu that packs a delicious punch.
cucumber, celery and mint. It’s
someone.
For a quintessential brunch, order
super refreshing and I imagine it
To start, opt for their Wasabi
their Eggs Benedict (Rp. 60,000++)
would be a great hangover cure too.
Tuna Tartare (Rp. 90,000++)
that comes with beautifully poached
Sisterfields is open daily from 7 a.m.
featuring fresh tuna mixed with
eggs and crispy bacon on grilled
to 5 p.m., and you can enjoy your
avocado and sesame. This comes
sourdough bread, topped with
meal indoors or al fresco on their
with flour chips that are perfect for
hollandaise sauce. It’s so good that
terrace or in their backyard.
dipping. For the greens, I personally
it might have you wishing the portion
recommend their Roasted Beetroot
were even bigger! Their Chicken
Sisterfields
Salad (Rp. 80,000++) presented
Schnitty Sandwich (Rp. 70,000++)
Jalan Kayu Cendana No. 7,
with local arugula, crispy pecans
with zesty Creole chutney, fresh
Seminyak
and dill, and topped off with zesty
cabbage coleslaw, roasted tomato
(0361) 905-0507
herb dressing and feta yoghurt.
and wholegrain mustard mayo is
www.sisterfields.com
For dessert, go for their Pistachio Cake with crème fraiche and lemon (Rp. 65,000++) or their heavenly Chocolate Lava Cake topped with a scoop of vanilla ice cream and a sprinkle of walnuts (Rp. 85,000++). Kilo is open daily for lunch from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. and dinner from 6 p.m. to 11 p.m., while their bar
Kilo Jalan Drupadi No. 20XX, Seminyak (0361) 474-1006
Kilo’s Wasabi Tuna Tartare with fresh avocado and sesame
www.facebook.com/kilobali
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ALL COURTESY PHOTOS
stays open until midnight.
Corner House has a Happy Hour that runs from 5 to 8 p.m. daily as well as a special Thirsty Thursday program at their upstairs bar starting from 8 p.m. until late.
finely chopped olive tapenade. Meat lovers should opt for their hearty Lamb Burger (Rp. 92,000++) with fresh mint yoghurt, balsamic glazed onion, cheese and cucumber (it comes with mixed greens and crisp French fries too). Have a delicious Iced Café Latte (Rp. 25,000++) with your meal; you can even grab one in the morning, as they’re open daily from 7 a.m. But back to the business of meetups. Corner House has a Happy Hour that runs from 5 to 8 p.m. daily as well as a special Thirsty Thursday program at their upstairs bar starting
FOR A WEEKEND MEET-UP
offers a calm and cozy atmosphere,
from 8 p.m. until late. So what are
despite being located right beside
you waiting for?
Located right on the corner of
one of Seminyak’s busiest roads.
By Ariko Ahmad
Drupadi and Kayu Aya Street, the
Try their Nicoise Style Salad (Rp.
Corner House is a great spot for a
67,000++) featuring slow cooked
Corner House Bali
get together or a catch up session
tuna with beans, broccoli, egg,
Jalan Kayu Aya No. 10A, Seminyak
with friends. Their shady terrace
capers, crunchy romaine lettuce,
(0361) 730-276
area is perfect for lingering and
basil, and a generous amount of
www.cornerhousebali.com
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55
ACTION&ATTRACTION
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AIM AND SHOOT!
BALI PAINTBALL ARENA PROVIDES AN IDEAL SHOOTING RANGE IN THE BEAUTIFUL LANDSCAPE OF UNGASAN’S LIMESTONE HILL.
W
ith three
LEARN TO SHOOT
arenas in
If you are new to paintball, start at
a natural
their shooting range with targets
outdoor
placed at distances of 20 to 30 meters. The various targets are made
environment, professional paintball
of paper, cardboard and soft plastic
training sessions and state-of-the-art
container lids, and here you will be
equipment and safety gear, this is
able to hone your shooting skills and
a great place to go with friends,
practice accuracy with ‘aim and
colleagues or family, whether rain
shoot’ activities.
or shine.
players with a time-based shooting
You can even challenge other
competition. This involves shooting from a sitting position, although some targets must be shot from a kneeling or standing position in order to add to the fun and challenge of the competition. This is an excellent way to introduce people to target shooting in the outdoors. The package price for this activity is Rp. 400,000 net per person, which is inclusive of one air gun rental, one box of pellets (80 rounds) and mineral water. Also included is hotel transfer (minimum 4 persons), which is a good thing to take advantage of since it can be a bit of a challenge to find the location.
BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2015
57
rules of the game, you’ll be reminded
If you’re feeling comfortable with
how to operate the semi-automatic
your shooting skills, another option
paintball gun, including handling,
is to take advantage of a package
loading, aiming and shooting. Then
where you can join forces with other
you’ll get to do a few practice rounds
players and go head-to-head against
prior to entering the battlefield.
another team. You’ll start with a welcome drink
In the first battlefield, the two teams are separated by a line of
at the reception area, and then suit
trees, drums, and big balloons
up in a camouflage jumpsuit and face
to take cover behind. Clutching
protector. After being briefed on the
your paintball gun tightly, relish in
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BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2015
PHOTOS COURTESY OF BALI PAINTBALL ARENA
GO HEAD-TO-HEAD
CLUTCHING YOUR PAINTBALL GUN TIGHTLY, RELISH IN THE ADRENALINE RUSH AS YOU DUCK, ROLL AND MANEUVER THROUGH THE FIELD, AIMING AND SHOOTING AT YOUR OPPONENTS AND AVOIDING THE PAINT BULLETS RUSHING PAST YOU.
the adrenaline rush as you duck,
when trying to take over the
roll and maneuver through the
opposing team’s area.
field, aiming and shooting at your
At the end of the exciting
opponents and avoiding the paint
paintball session you’ll be provided
bullets rushing past you.
with a light meal to enjoy while
A horn is blown to signal the end
taking in the view of the limestone
of the first game, which is followed
hill. Although the packages vary, for
by a short break. Then the second
Rp. 700,000 nett/person you can
game commences in a village-like
get 200 rounds of paintball ammo,
scene with wooden huts, fences and
two game sessions at different
bushes. This terrain provides more
playing fields, complimentary
hiding spots and more challenges
refreshments, one light meal and insurance for each player. A morning paintball game is definitely recommended as you’ll be able to finish by lunch and it gives you enough time to treat your gun shot ‘wounds’ and rest after being so active. Then you’ll be free to enjoy Bali’s renowned sunset from the southern part of the island. Bali Paintball Arena Jalan Alas Arum, Kuta Selatan +62 82247006999 www.balipaintballarena.com
BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2015
59
BEYONDBALI
A SURREAL SCENE
CONTRIBUTOR PHIL GREEN ‘POPS OVER’ TO EAST JAVA TO VISIT THE STUNNING IJEN PLATEAU, THEN SHARES WITH US HIS EXPERIENCE. ANYONE ELSE INSPIRED TO EMBARK ON A ROAD TRIP?
I
’ve wanted to visit Banyuwangi and the Ijen Plateau for a number of years, so when my son visited me here in Bali we decided at
the spur of the moment to ‘just do it.’ Hastily getting together cold weather gear and hiking boots, we set off by car from Denpasar before sunrise. As they say, the best adventures are never planned...
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Despite wet weather, Ijen is certainly accessible during the rainy season (photos were taken during the rainy season). However, the best time to visit Ijen would be during the dry season (April – November).
FERRYING ACROSS
journey I would take the northern
was crystal clear and the volcanic
Our first destination was Gilimanuk
route to Singaraja, and then head
mountains of Ijen loomed large as
and the ferry crossing to Java. The
south over the mountains through
the ferry approached Java. After
southern Bali route to Gilimanuk from
Bedugul and on to Denpasar. This
some caffeine, pisang goreng
Denpasar is reputedly one of the
proved to be a wise choice!
(banana fritters) and dangdut tunes
most dangerous roads in Indonesia,
After five hours (that included a
on the 40-minute ferry ride, I felt as
and I can attest to its fearsome
couple of breaks to calm the nerves)
reputation – the hairpin bends and
we finally reached Gilimanuk. The
very tired truck drivers arriving at the
facilities and organization at the
TWO-WHEEL DRIVE
end of their overnight from Surabaya
port are excellent and in no time we
After exiting the port facility we
to Denpasar are absolutely nerve-
had our car on the ferry and were
headed south along the main coast
wracking. I vowed that on the return
on our way to Java. The morning sky
road towards Banyuwangi proper.
BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2015
61
good as new.
We quickly arrived and to my surprise there were a number of signs for our destination ‘Kawah Ijen.’ I found this highly unusual, as often in Indonesia there are no signs at all, or if there are I’m suspicious they are pointing in the wrong direction! The way up to Ijen is comprised of picturesque rice paddies set against the mountain backdrop. We followed yet more ‘Kawah Ijen’ signs and by lunchtime had arrived at the ‘Ijen Resto and Homestay’ in Licin. This homestay consists of basic yet clean bungalows, even with hot water facilities. Later in the afternoon we decided to further investigate the road beyond Licin. As we snaked our way higher the road narrowed and was covered by a beautiful canopy of rain forest trees, vines and superb tree ferns. At around 14 kilometers the vegetation thinned out, the road flattened, and we had reached the drier plateau. A couple of kilometers later we arrived at Paltuding, the starting point for the Kawah Ijen trek. Most advice on the web warns that the Licin route to Paltuding is simply impassable without a good 4WD, but we found this was not the case. The road has been upgraded in recent years (in support of the Banyuwangi Tour de Ijen, a 600 km bicycle road race around East Java) and although there are some pretty
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“The trek to Ijen crater is simply unforgettable. The terrain and views are superb, but perhaps the most enduring memory of all is that of the miners. Despite their enormous physical ordeal, they are very good-natured and even humorous with the tourists sharing their track. They accept the challenges of the job they have taken on, and do it with dignity, humility, and without complaint.�
BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2015
63
steep parts, we had no problems in our 2WD Toyota.
A CHALLENGING TREK Under a dark but brilliantly starry sky we began the trek to Ijen crater. It is around three kilometers to the rim and the track is well traveled by around 300 sulphur miners daily. Some 15 minutes into the trek the path begins to steepen, and was made even more difďŹ cult by the darkness of the night. An hour and a half later the silhouette of the crater rim was visible against a faint early dawn sky. We pushed on quickly and soon arrived at the rim. Peering down, we were absolutely blown away by the breathtaking sight below. The lake itself had an eerie greenish glow, contrasting with the bluish and yellow glow from the burning sulphur and a gas cloud drifting across the lake. The scene was an awesome spectacle reminiscent of Dante’s Inferno.
We spent the next couple of hours on the crater rim track and then down at the sulphur mine site by the lake. The crater rim track offers superb views of Ijen crater and the volcanic terrain of the whole Ijen Plateau further to the west. The terrain is spectacular, surreal, and just as grand as the more famous Mount Bromo. The trip from the crater rim down to the mining site is very
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PHOTOS BY PHIL GREEN (BALIPHOTOBLOG.SMUGMUG.COM)
CRATER RIM VIEWS
steep and difficult, and not to
Once enveloped by the fumes, you
trek back up to the crater rim was
be underestimated. Once down
cough and your eyes start to sting –
again challenging, but my simple
near the sulphur operations all is
this is an acidic gas after all!
backpack was nothing compared to
fine until the wind stops, changes
It’s hard to believe that the
the miners who were carrying 70 to
direction, and you are enveloped
sulphur miners work here for hours
in thick sulphur fumes. Although we
on end, and I was glad to see that
had taken hand-towels to breathe
some of them had gas masks and
into Paltuding for a well-deserved
through, this was barely enough.
proper rubber boots and gloves. The
late breakfast of banana pancakes
90 kilograms of sulphur blocks. Two hours later we stumbled back
and coffee, and later in the day
INDONESIA
we drove to a number of sites around the plateau including the hot springs at Catimor and the nearby waterfalls. I highly recommend an hour of soaking in the springs after the Ijen climb, particularly when local brewed coffee is served as you relax in the steamy hot ponds.
EAST JAVA
By Phil Green
BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2015
65
CAPITALCORNER
THE DARLINGS OF JEWELRY DESIGN TAKE NOTE OF THESE TALENTED INDONESIAN JEWELRY DESIGNERS BECAUSE YOU’LL BE BLOWN AWAY BY THEIR CREATIONS. By Dewi Irma
Heaven Tanudiredja worked for John Galliano before setting up his own label
W
earing
spotlight. Read on to learn more about
its distinct sculptural elements and
accessories
some of our favorites!
technical innovations.
jewelry can
HEAVEN TANUDIREDJA
jewelry designer’s career in fashion
do wonders
Why be ordinary when you can be
began when he moved to Europe in
to your look, adding boldness
extraordinary? Heaven Tanudiredja
2004 and trained in womenswear
or uniqueness to an otherwise
understands this sentiment for sure,
at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in
basic outfit. As it turns out, young
and has created a collection of bold
Antwerp. He then worked for John
Indonesian jewelry designers are
and heavily-detailed statement jewelry
Galliano at Christian Dior Haute
quite a talented bunch who are
dedicated to women with strong
Couture, followed by Dries van
poised to take the national fashion
characters. Heaven’s work is noted for
Noten, and finally in 2007 set up his
such as
This Bali-born and Belgium-based
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BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2015
own label. His unique handcrafted pieces have led him to collaborate with international fashion designers such as Juun.J and Iris van Herpen, and in 2013 with Bruno Pieters’ label Honest By. Although living and working in Antwerp, the designer has not forgotten his homeland of Indonesia. In September 2014 he showcased his creations in an exhibit called ‘Subject to Object’ at The Papilion
Audrey Akman’s pieces are dedicated to modern women who dare to look different
Duo in Pacific Place, Jakarta. He amazed local fashion, art, and
as Pyromania, Trichotillomania,
AUDREY AKMAN
jewelry enthusiasts with his sculptural
Anorexia Nervosa or Agoraphobia.
New York City is where Audrey
pieces that combine gold, enamel,
began to bring her design dreams
Heaven’s creations are sold from US$ 435 to over US$ 11,000
into realization, and although she
and can be found in boutiques like
actually studied clothing design
keywords in Heaven’s mind when
Liberty in London, 10 Corso Como
(she was the brains behind Nicki
he creates, and he always strives
in Milan, Blake in Chicago, Le Bon
Minaj’s dance costumes at the
to show the beauty behind chaos
Marche in Paris, Dover Street Market
2012 Grammy Awards) she later
with his designs, which often
in London, Tokyo and New York, as
discovered a passion for making
have extraordinary names such
well as Joyce in Hong Kong.
jewelry. Working with various
and vintage crystals. ‘Robotic’ and ‘exotic’ are
metals and scavenged objects, she combines them into sculptural pieces under her label Audrey Akman New York (since 2013).
BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2015
67
Rosalyn Cita’s pieces are hammered and left raw, featuring twisted edges, unique shapes and rustic imperfections to accentuate eccentric character
Striking a perfect balance between classy and edgy is what drives Audrey Akman to make jewelry. The young jewelry designer is inspired by things that are contradictory, and her collections feel erotic and sensual yet at the same time innocent, dark but at the same time elegant and hauntingly beautiful. They’re an embodiment of the conflict between good and bad, and show the transition from innocence to enlightenment. Her earrings, necklaces and elements and are dedicated to
unique take on gold and silver-plated
the Wabi Sabi philosophy from
modern and independent women
accessories. Her debut collection
Japan, where ‘beauty lies in the
who dare to look different. Every
was featured in Vogue Talent Corner
imperfections’, her stunning pieces
product is created with the superb
2012 and she was also named one
are intentionally unpolished and not
craftsmanship of dedicated artisans
of the Most Promising Accessories
necessarily perfect, because Rosalyn
in Bali. Head to Audrey Akman’s
Brands at the Cleo Fashion Awards
feels that clean, beautiful, and very
website to browse the stunning
during the recent Jakarta Fashion
polished designs can often feel quite
jewelry or visit her gallery at The
Week (JFW) 2014.
tiresome. Her pieces are hammered
Akmani Hotel in Jakarta.
As one of the participants of the
and left raw, featuring twisted
Indonesia Fashion Forward (IFF)
edges, unique shapes and rustic
ROSALYN CITTA
program during JFW 2015, her
imperfections to accentuate eccentric
Rosalyn Citta, a graduate of Istituto
presentation successfully conveyed
character.
Marangoni Milano, is known for her
‘luxury in simplicity’. Based on
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Rosalyn often explores metals
ALL PHOTOS COURTESY OF DESIGNERS
bracelets often featuring Swarovski
and can enjoy looking through the selection of necklaces, bangles and earrings that evoke a sense of history and cultural pride. Says Ina Symonds, one of the founders of the brand, “That’s what Manjusha Nusantara is all about, to share what we’ve learned, the connection between Indonesian history and its traditional jewelry.
and turns them into sleek modern designs. This fills the gap in the market for metal accessories that is often dominated by overly traditional designs. To browse her designs go to Bobobobo.com. This brand is also available at selective stores in Shanghai, Beijing, and Guangzhou.
MANJUSHA NUSANTARA Apart from being used to enhance one’s appearance, jewelry also has historical value. The brand Manjusha Nusantara, established in 2011, focuses on preserving Indonesia’s jewelry heritage and shares with
The women behind Manjusha Nusantara are lovers of Indonesian antique jewelry
people the richness of the country’s collection is mostly made of alpaca
We try to make traditional jewelry
metal, which is then plated with silver
more accessible to modern women
Ria W. Glenn, Terry W. Supit, Ina
and gold. Their pieces are not mass-
as part of our contribution to pass on
Symonds and Yasmin Wirjawan,
produced in order to retain specific
Indonesian heritage.”
are all passionate about Indonesian
artistic touches.
traditional jewelry. The four women behind the brand,
culture, especially Indonesia’s antique
For jewelry enthusiasts who want
Past collections have been named
to experience wearing traditional
jewelry. Manjusha Nusantara means
The Swarnadipa, The Peranakan,
jewelry in these modern times,
‘jewelry box from the archipelago,’
The Sulawesi and Kalingga. Every
check out the Manjusha Nusantara
and they specialize in producing
time they hold a trunk show or
collection available at Hadiprana
replicas of Indonesian heritage
fashion show, visitors are able to
Gallery and Dia.lo.gue Artspace
jewelry from all over Indonesia. The
learn the history behind the jewelry
in Jakarta.
BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2015
69
BEYONDUPDATES
BANYUWANGI JAZZ The second annual Banyuwangi Beach Jazz Festival took place in December at Boom Beach in Banyuwangi, aimed at promoting the natural beauty and cultural diversity of the Banyuwangi Regency. Apart from enjoying the lovely atmosphere, festivalgoers were treated to performances from Tohpati & Friends, Kahitna, Kua Etnika featuring Trie Utami, and collaborations between the visiting and local artists. www.jazzpantai.com
THE BIG 5 JAZZ PANTAI PHOTOS COURTESY OF BBJF 2014 OTHER COURTESY OF TURKISH AIRLINES
Turkish Airlines celebrated its 5th year of flying to Jakarta in November. The airline strives to provide the best service for its loyal customers in Indonesia, and has been awarded ‘Best Airline in Europe’ by Skytrax for four consecutive years as well as ‘World’s Best Business Class Lounge Dining’ in 2014. www.turkishairlines.com.com
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BEYONDUPDATES
GO FOR GOLD For those headed to Jakarta, you will want to consider staying at the Gran Melia Jakarta, which was awarded The Best City Hotel-Jakarta at the 25th TTG Travel Awards in Bangkok. The win was determined through a vote by readers, with criteria such as best service and facilities, best value added benefits, and most professional sales and marketing team. The hotel’s team was proud to bring the 24K gold-plated Hermes trophy back to Indonesia’s capital. Gran Melia Hotel Jakarta Jalan H.R. Rasuna Said Kav. X-0, Kuningan (021) 526-8080 www.granmeliajakarta.com
EXPERT OF PRINCE DIPONEGORO
ALL COURTESY PHOTOS
The Samana Foundation recently awarded the ‘Sang Hyang Kamahayanikan Award 2014’ to British historian Peter Carey. Dedicated to Southeast Asia’s history, he has thoroughly studied Prince Diponegoro’s life and is adept not only at explaining his war tactics against Dutch colonialism but also gets into the national hero’s psyche. The award was presented at the Borobudur Writers & Cultural Festival. www.borobudurwritersfestival.com
BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2015
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On December 10 the Gianyar Regency held an event called ‘Gianyar Cultural Wonders Design and Fashion’ featuring veteran designers Bintang Mira, Tjok Abi and Tude Togog, who are well known for their use of Balinese textiles. The event was held at Puri Agung Gianyar and was aimed at keeping the Balinese textile tradition alive by promoting it’s modern and innovative use. www.gianyarkab.go.id
FRENCH FUSION The French hip hop dance troupe Compagnie Pyramid collaborated with local hip hop dancers Aerial Crew in a performance titled Bersama (meaning ‘together’). The dynamic event was held on December 1 at the Bale Banjar Ballroom of the Le Méridien Bali Jimbaran. www.lemeridienbalijimbaran.com
WHITE PARTY On December 6 the Nikki Beach Bali had their Grand Opening White Party. With about 1,500 attendees, the fabulous event featured DJs and entertainers from Nikki Beach Clubs around the world. A highlight of the night was a mesmerizing performance by a dancer suspended from a giant balloon in the sky. www.nikkibeach.com 74
BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2015
FASHION SHOW PHOTOS COURTESY OF PEMKAB GIANYAR OTHERS COURTESY OF NIKKI BEACH & LE MERIDIEN BALI JIMBARAN
SEE&SEEN
LOCAL TEXTILES
SURFING WITH SANTA On December 7 the Odysseys Surf School held fun surfing lessons at Kuta Beach for the orphans of the Hope Children’s Home. The instructors, dressed as Santa, also taught the kids about safety in the water and beach cleaning. www.odysseysurfschool.com
SCHOOLIES HOLIDAY
SURF’S UP The Asian Surfing Championships (ASC) held their 4th annual awards party on December 13 at the Mantra Dine & Cocktail Bar in Seminyak. The event was attended by more than 80 surfers, who congratulated Asia’s 2014 Men’s, Women’s, and Junior surfing champions. It was the first time the ASC crowned a junior women’s champion (16 years and under). www.asiansurfingtour.com BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2015
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AWARD PHOTOS BY BALI HOLIDAY FOR ASC OTHERS COURTESY OF THE 101 BALI LEGIAN & ODYSSEYS
THE 101 Bali Legian proudly hosted the Sunblast Ultraglow Festival on November 26. Their rooftop was crowded with youthful partygoers from 3 p.m. who enjoyed the atmosphere of live DJs (including Some Blonde and Reecelow) and marathon shots. www.the101bali.com
Negara
JEMBRANA
Medewi
West Bali National Park
Pemuteran
Menjangan Island
Gilimanuk
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M
Nusa Dua
Candi Dasa
Nusa Lembongan Island
Semarapura
Nusa Penida Island
Nusa Ceningan Island
Tanjung Benoa
Sanur
Tenganan
Amlapura
Amed
Tulamben M. Agung
KARANGASEM
Besakih
Lake Batur
KLUNGKUNG GIANYAR
DENPASAR
Taman Ayun
BADUNG
Ubud
Bangli
BANGLI
M. Batur Kintamani Bedugul
Kerobokan Seminyak Legian NGURAH RAI Kuta Tuban INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT Jimbaran Uluwatu
Canggu
Tanah Lot
Tabanan
TABANAN
M. Batukaru
Laker Buyan Lake Tamblingan Lake Bratan
BULELENG
Lovina
Singaraja
BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2015
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W Hotel
H
Gado Gado
R
The Oberoi
uk
H
ra
C
H
Mercure
Rosso Vivo
C
Kuta Sea View
Road
W
H
Kuta Square
R
Gabah
Jl. Tegal Wangi
Kuta Center
Kuta beach
S
S
N
KUTA
Jl. Nakula
Jl. Plawa
Hard Rock Starbucks Jl. Pantai Kuta
H R
nset
Jl. kunti I
Jl. Su
Jl. Tangkuban Perahu
H Istana rama Beachwalk H Harris
Jl. Melasti
Legian Beach
H
Jl.
a Padm
Amaris Legian
kuda Jl. Wer
Jl. Arjuna
Jl. Camplung Tand
Jl. Laksamana
Jl. Mertasari
LEGEND: + Medical C Cafe H Hotel M Market H S M Museum Kartika Plaza Shopping S S R Restaurant Discovery Shopping Mall V Villa CD Corps Diplomatique
H
H
The Seminyak
Jemme Cafe
Jl. Petitenget
C
Danoya
ix
le S
oub
Jl. D
Jl. Raya Basangkasa
Jl. Raya Seminyak
V
ra
a Uta
adm
Jl. P
Jl. Mertanadi
ian
Jl. Leg
Jl. Raya Kerobokan
a
dew
aha
Jl. S
i Kuta
Panta
aya
Jl. R
za
aP la
rtik
Ka
Jl.
an
Jl. Raya Tub
S
n Da
au
Be
Tuah
ra
ta
S
N
Mercure
E
H
H
H
Puri Santrian
H
R
Jl. Sindu
C
Sindu Beach
CD
Bali Hyatt
C
Batu Jimbar
The Village
LEGEND: + Medical C Cafe H Hotel M Market M Museum S Shopping R Restaurant CD Corps Diplomatique
H
H
H
Sector
Sweden & Finland Consulate
Telaga Naga
French Consulate
Sanur Paradise Plaza Suite
M Le Mayeur
Inna Grand Bali Beach
Jl. Segara Ayu
Sanur Paradise Plaza
Tuah Jl. Hang
H
CD
H
Czech Rep. Consulate
Jl. Danau Poso
Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai
W
CD
Jl. Danau Buyan
Jl. Tegeh Agung
n
SANUR
Jl. Tukad Bilok
Jl.
Jl. Hang
CD Italy Consulate
Sanur Beach
Bali Galleria
S
Jl. kunti II
Istana Kuta Galleria
E
apahit Jl. Maj
Kuta aya Jl. R
Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai
i
Jl.
S
latan
H
inge
en
G
iM
H
H
Grand Nikko Bali Resort & Spa
H
nta
gia
t
H
Art Market
Medical Center
SAKALA
Tao Bali
Melia Bali
The Laguna
The Bay
LEGEND: + Medical C Cafe H Hotel M Market M Museum S Shopping R Restaurant G Golf CD Corps Diplomatique
Grand Hyatt Bali
R
Museum PasiďŹ ka
H
H
Bali Collection
M
Nusa Dua Beach Westin Resort
H H
H
Club Med Bali Kayumanis Nusa Dua
H
Art Market
S
H
Melia Benoa
The Royal Santrian
Conrad Bali
H
H
H
The Oasis
Aston Bali Resort
Grand Mirage
Ina Putri Bali
S
R R +
S
H Novotel Bali Benoa H The Bali Khama
Ayodya Resort bali
H
Bali National Golf Club
Pa
+
Village Market
Clinic
uda
M iray
+
+
H
The St. Regis Bali Resort
Jl.
Jl. W
Amaris Pratama Nusa Dua
Dental Clinic
Clinic
H H
H
H
Fish Market
Ramada Benoa
The Mulia, Mulia Resort & Villas
+
Medical Center
Amanusa
Pem
Tragia
S
E
Jl. Pratama Raya
ai
a Se Nusa Du
H
The Bale
ntai
3
Jl. Pa
Jl. Kurusetra
W
N
NUSA DUA
M
Jl. Pratama
Jl. Batubelig
J
Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai
h Ra gura ss N
hR
l. By pa
i
Jl. Danau Tamblingan
ra
sar
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Me
BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2015
as
Jl.
a
78
tam
et Road
Jl. P ra
Jl. Suns Jl. Srikandi
Jl. p By
BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2015
79
Bumbak
Canggu River
Pantai Brawa
Raya Semer Peng
uben
gan
KUWUM
ka
n
Perancak Temple
SEMER
Subaksari
Canggu SurďŹ ng
~~ ~~ ~~ ~~
To Denpasar
yan
TIBUBENENG
er
Nela
BUMBAK
wa
em
Pantai Bra
aS
~~ ~~ ~~ ~~ Canggu Beach
International Community School
To Kerobokan
Ray
CANGGU
Ke
lec
un
g
Jl.
~~ ~~ ~~ ~~
Brawa Beach
Ra
ya
Ke
ro
bo
Dukun Indah
BRAWA
UMALAS
Batub
Batubelig
elig
Gunung Tangkuban Perah
Batubelig
BATUBELIG
KEROBOKAN
H
Villa Lumbung
nget Petite
ri Mertasa
et
Bali Clinic Laksam
a
i
ana
Drupadi
SEMINYAK
aya
Bida
Su
kasa
Ay
H
yu
The Legian
Jl. R
+
Ka
S
T Petitenget Temple Petiteng
Obero
E
Basang
LEGEND: + Medical T Tourism Spot H Hotel/Resort M Market M Museum S Shopping R Restaurant
Jl. Raya Kerobokan
N W
R
H
W Bali
KEROBOKAN CANGGU
Warisan Australian International School
Mertanadi
~~ ~~ ~~ ~~
Batubelig Beach
u
State Prison of Kerobokan
ns
UBUD
To Kintamani
M Neka Museum
N
Jl. Sandat
W
an
Jl. Campuhan
To Payangan
KEDEWATAN
Jl. Andong
g ajen
M
Market
M
Cok Putra S wah
Rai ede ok G
T
Pusering Jagad Tample
Jl. C
Jl. IB
Lamak
H
Maya Ubud Resort
iwa
R
Jl. Sugr
Forest
Medical
nkey
+
Jl. Jemba
+
Jl. Mo
LEGEND: + Medical T Tourism Spot H Hotel/Resort M Market M Museum S Shopping R Restaurant
Medical
Jl. Dewi Sita
SAYAN
Ganding
Ubud Palace
d
Jl. Jero
Ubu
Manik
PENESTANAN
aya
Jl. Sand
Jl. R
M Antonio Blanco Museum
man
H
ANDONG
at
Painting Museum
Kayu Manis
TAMAN
Jl. Hano
Ay
un
g
CAMPUHAN
E S
Jl. Su
H Four Season
Jl. K
Riv
er
weta
Jl. Tirta Tam
UBUD
T
Penataran Sasih Tample
T
Keboedan Tample
Monkey Forest
T
To Denpasar
Jl. Nyuh bulan
PELIATAN
KATIK LANTANG
NYUH KUNING
M Afchaeological Museum
BEDULU
T
Elephant Cave
80
Rudana BALI&BEYOND JANUARYTEGES 2015 Museum M
PANGOSEKAN
To Denpasar
To Kemenuh
TENGKULAK
To Gianyar
et
dari
Ro
ad
BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2015
81
INFOINDEX
AIRLINES
Tel: (0361) 286-465, Fax: (0361) 286-408 E-mail: bali@honorary.mzv.cz
Renon, Denpasar Fax: (0361) 263-310 E-mail: rtc_bali@thaimail.com
■ AIRPORT OPERATOR Tel: (0361) 751-011
■ FRANCE
■ TIMOR LESTE
■ CATHAY PACIFIC AIRWAYS
Jl. Mertasari Gg. II No. 8, Sanur Tel: (0361) 285-485, Fax: (0361) 286-406 E-mail: consul@dps.centrin.net.id
Jl. Prof. Yamin No. 4, Renon, Denpsar Tel: (0361) 235-093, Fax: (0361) 235-092 E-mail: cgtl@dpsbali.com
■ GERMANY
■ UNITED STATES
Tel: (0361) 768-358, Fax: (0361) 768-369
Jl. Pantai Karang 17, Batujimbar, Sanur Tel: (0361) 288-535, Fax: (0361) 288-826 Email: germanconsul@bali-ntb.com
Jl. Hayam Wuruk 188, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 233-605, Fax: (0361) 222-426 E-mail: amcobali@indosat.net.id
■ ROYAL BRUNEI
■ HUNGARY
Tel: (0361) 757-292
■ SINGAPORE AIRLINES
Marintur, Jl. By Pass Ngurah Rai 219, Sanur. Tel: (0361) 287-701, Fax: (0361) 287-456 Email: huconbali@telkom.net
Jl. I Gusti Ngurah Rai, Airport Tel: (0361) 936-8388, Fax: (0361) 936-8383
■ INDIA
■ GARUDA Jl. Jalan Sugianyar, 5 Denpasar
Jl. Raya Puputan 163, Renon - Denpasar Tel. (0361) 259-502/259-503 Fax.(0361) 259-505
Wisthi Sabha Building, 2nd Floor Ngurah Rai International Aiprort Call Centre: 0804-1-888888
■ CONTINENTAL MICRONESIA
Tel. (0361) 227-824, Fax: (0361) 226-298 24-hour access: 08071-807-807
■ MERPATI Jl. Gatot Subroto Tengah, 26 Denpasar Tel: (0361) 411-364 Airport Tel: (0361) 9351-011, ext. 5240/5242 Hotline: Tel: (0361) 722-740, 722-741
■ MANDALA AIRLINES Komp. Plaza Kertawijaya Jl. Diponogoro No. 98, Denpasar, Reservation Call center 08041234567
■ NGURAH RAI AIRPORT Tel/Fax: (0361) 759-761
HEALTH&MEDICAL
■ ITALY Lotus Enterprises Building Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai, Jimbaran Tel: (0361) 701-005, Fax: (0361) 701-005 E-mail: italconsbali @italconsbali.org
■ JAPAN Jl. Raya Puputan 170, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 227-628, Fax: (0361) 265-066 E-mail: denpasar@dp.mofa.go.jp
■ MALAYSIA Alam Kulkul Boutique Resort Jl. Pantai Kuta Tel: (0361) 752-520, Fax: (0361) 766-373 E-mail: info@consulmalaysia-bali.com
■ THAI INTERNATIONAL Grand Bali Beach Sanur, Tel: (0361) 288-141
■ QATAR AIRWAYS Discovery Kartika Plaza Hotel, South Kuta Beach Tel: (0361) 752-222; Fax: 753-788. Departure International Terminal, 2nd fl. – Room OP.II.8 East Wing Ngurah Rai International Airport Tel: (0361) 9360274; Fax : (0361) 9360275 ■ DEPARTURE Arrive at the airport two hours prior to departure. A Rp. 150,000 international departure tax is required. Domestic departure fee is Rp 75,000. No Fiscal tax-exempt to pay for Indonesian and expatriates holding KITAS for International departure. Ngurah Rai Intíl Airport, Tel: (0361) 751-011
■ MEXICO PT Puri Astina Putra Building Jl. Prof. Moh. Yamin 1A, Renon, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 223-266, Fax: (0361) 244-568 E-mail: consulmex@astinatravel.com
Call an ambulance by dialing 118, but it is a lot more practical and quicker to hire a taxi. Most hotels have on-call doctors on standby. For “Bali Belly”, Lomotil and Imodium eliminate symptoms, but not gastro-related infections. A fever along with symptoms requires doctor-prescribed antibiotics. Drink as much liquid as possible. Isotonic drinks under various brand names are widely available and are known to replenish body hydration and replace fluids. For discomfort, diarrhea and cramping, drink strong, hot tea; avoid fruits and spicy foods. Some day-biting mosquitoes carry dengue fever, but this is not a problem in tourist areas. Bali is non-malarial and prophylaxis is not required. Mosquito bites, cuts or abrasions easily become infected in the tropics. Treat them immediately. Drink only bottled or boiled water. Peel fruit before eating; avoid raw vegetables except at reputable restaurants. Ice in restaurants is safe. Protect yourself from the intense equatorial sun. Use high SPF sunblock and a hat. AIDS and sexually transmitted diseases are increasing in Indonesia. Local sex workers have multiple partners from around the world. They are not checked for sexually transmitted diseases. Act responsibly and use condoms, available over the counter at pharmacies.
■ NETHERLANDS
■ ROYAL DANISH Sunset Road No. 89 Ruko Sunset Indah I Kav. 3 Tel: (0361) 821-6979, Fax: (0361) 7666-38 E-mail: danishconsbali@gmail.com
CLINIC&HOSPITAL 24-hour emergency medical clinic services, medical evacuation, multilingual staff. Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai 505X, Kuta 80361 Tel: (0361) 710-505, Fax: (0361) 710-515
(ARMA) Ubud, Tel: (0361) 976-659, Fax: 974-229. Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud, open daily 8 am-6pm
■ ABIAN KAPAS Jl. Nusa Indah, East Denpasar Tel: (0361) 227-176
■ ANTONIO BLANCO Ubud , Tel: (0361) 975-502, 975-551 open daily 8 am-5 pm
■ ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM Pejeng, Tel: (0361) 942-352 Open 8 am - 3 pm weekdays
■ GEDONG KIRTYA HISTORICAL LIBRARY Tel: (0362) 25141, Jl. Veteran, Singaraja. Open 7am - 3pm Monday Thursday, until Fridaynoon, closed on weekends
■ GALLERY SENIWATI Jl. Ubud Raya, Gianyar. Tel: (0361) 975-485
■ MUSEUM BALI Tel: (0361) 235-059, 222-680, Jl. Let. Kol Wisnu, Denpasar
■ MUSEUM LE MAYEUR Tel: (0361) 286-164, Jl. Hang Tuah, Sanur. Open 8 am - 2 pm, Tuesday - Sunday.
■ MUSEUM MANUSA YADNYA Mengwi, open daily, but often unattended
■ MUSEUM NEKA Tel: (0361) 975-074, 975-034, Jl. Raya Campuan, Ubud open daily 9 am - 5 pm.
Tel: (0361) 975-136, 971-159, Jl. Raya Ubud, Ubud, www.mpl-ubud.com
■ MUSEUM RUDANA Tel: (0361) 975-779, 976-479, Peliatan, Ubud
■ MUSEUM SUBAK Tel: (0361) 810-315, Jl. Raya Kediri, Desa Sanggulan, Tabanan
■ BIMC Hospital Kuta ■ POLAND
■ BRITAIN
■ SPAIN
■ BIMC Hospital Nusa Dua
Jl. Tirta Nadi 20, Sanur, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 270-601, Fax: (0361) 287-804 E-mail: bcbali@dps.centrin.net.id
Istana Kuta Galeria, Blok Vallet 2, No. 11 Jl. Patih Jelantik, Kuta Tel: (0361) 769-296, Fax: (0361) 769-296 E-mail: espana_bali@blueline.net.id
24h Accident and Emergency Centre, 24h Medical Centre, international standard hospital with fully equipped ambulances, emergency room, intensive care unit, operating theatres, radiology and pathology, ward rooms, international and multilingual team of medical experts, CosMedic Centre, Dialysis Centre, Dental Centre. Kawasan BTDC, Blok D, Nusa Dua 80363, Tel: (0361) 3000-911, Fax: (0361) 3001-150
NEW ZEALAND Jl. Tantular No. 32, Renon - Denpasar 80234 Tel: (0361) 241-118, Fax: (0361) 221-195 E-mail: bali.congen@dfat.gov.au www.bali.indonesia.embassy.gov.au
■ AGUNG RAI MUSEUM OF ART
■ INTERNATIONAL SOS CLINIC
Jl.Gunung Agung 93, Denpasar 80118 Tel: (0361) 426-171, Fax: (0361) 426-477 E-mail: konsulslowakbali@yahoo.com
■ AUSTRALIA, CANADA,
MUSEUMS
■ MUSEUM PURI LUKISAN
KCB Travel, Jl. Raya Kuta 127, Kuta Tel: (0361) 761-502, Fax: (0361) 752-777 E-mail: dutchconsulate@kcb-tours.com
24h Accident and Emergency Centre, 24h Medical Centre, international standard hospital with fully equipped ambulances, emergency room, intensive care unit, operating theatres, radiology and pathology, ward rooms, international and multilingual team of medical experts, CosMedic Centre for non-invasive and invasive cosmetic and aesthetic treatments. Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai 100X, Kuta 80361 Tel: (0361) 761-263, Fax: (0361) 767-701
CONSULATES
■ RUMAH SAKIT UMUM PUSAT SANGLAH (General Hospital): Jl. Diponegoro, Sanglah, Denpasar. Tel: (0361) 227-911/15
Jl. Raya Petitenget No. 11, Block I/C, Banjar Umasari, Kerobokan Tel: (0361) 732-165, Fax: (0361) 732-165 E-mail: consul@balipolandconsulate.com
■ SLOVAKIA
TOURIST INFO. ■ INTEGRATED TOURISM INFORMATION CENTER (ITIC) A one-stop tourist information complex of ten provinces in Indonesia comprising Bali, Lampung, Jakarta, Banten, West Java, Central Java, East Java, Jogjakarta. Jl. Raya Kuta 2, Kuta, 80361; Tel: (0361) 766-188
■ NGURAH RAI INTERNATIONAL
■ BRAZIL Jl. Raya Legian No. 186, Kuta Tel: (0361) 757-775, Fax: (0361) 751-005 E–mail: brazilconsul@bali.net
■ SWEDEN & FINLAND Segara Village Hotel, Jl. Segara Ayu Tel: (0361) 282-211, Fax: 282-211 E-mail: sweconsul@yahoo.com
■ CHILE Jl. Jl. Pengembak Gg 1 No. 3, Sanur, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 756-781, Fax: (0361) 756-783 E-mail: chilehonconsulate@bali-villa.com
■ SWITZERLAND & AUSTRIA Jl. Ganetri 9 D, Gatot Subroto Timur, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 878-4343, Fax: (0361) 878-4466 E-mail: bali@honrep.ch
■ CZECH REPUBLIC Jl. Pengembak 17 Sanur.
■ THAILAND Jl. Puputan Raya No. 81,
82
■ SILOAM HOSPITALS 24-hour emergency 779-911 Jl. Sunset Road No. 818, Kuta, Badung, Bali Tel: +62-361-779-900 E-mail: info.bali@siloamhospitals.com
BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2015
AIRPORT Tel: (0361) 751-011
■ BADUNG GOVERNMENT TOURISM OFFICE Jl. Kuta Raya 2, Kuta Tel: (0361) 756-175/76 ■ BALI GOVERNMENT TOURISM OFFICE Jl. Supratman, Niti Mandala, Renon, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 222-387 ■ SINGARAJA TOURIST INFORMATION OFFICE Jl. Veteran 23, Singaraja Tel: (0362) 251-41
■ UBUD TOURIST INFORMATION SERVICE Jl. Raya Ubud, Gianyar Tel: (0361) 96-285, 973-285; 8 am - 9 pm
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BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2015