Bali & Beyond Magazine March 2017

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M A R C H 2 017 VOLUME 18 NO. 202

COUNT YOUR

BLESSINGS ANCIENT BALINESE TREATMENT AT HOTEL TUGU BALI

THE SPIRITUAL

DEVOTION HOW THE BALINESE WORSHIP THEIR GOD

TRULY BALI AGE-OLD TRADITIONS, AUTHENTIC FOODS, AND MORE

www.baliandbeyond.co.id

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BALI&BEYOND MARCH 2017

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TEAMTALK

TRULY BALI ‘Om Swastiastu...’

On March 28, the Balinese people will celebrate Silent Day to mark a new beginning of Saka New Year. The lights will be out, the streets will be empty and even the airport is closed – no one is allowed to go out or do any outside activities as the Balinese rejoice in silence. One day prior to Silent Day, the Balinese people host an Ogoh-Ogoh Parade where giant bamboo structures depicting traditional or modern characters are paraded and burnt to clean the island from negative energy. Ogoh-Ogoh Parade has also become one of the attractive traditional rituals for tourists and residents to see. Therefore, if you’re staying in Bali on Silent Day, don’t miss

COVER Photo Courtesy of Mandapa, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve

an Ogoh-Ogoh Parade. Better yet, join a Monster-Doll making workshop and make your own ogoh-ogoh at Ganesha Cultural Centre in Four Seasons Resort Bali at Jimbaran Bay. You can also learn other Balinese traditional arts and crafts at this cultural center – turn to ‘Lifestyle & Leisure’ for more details. To honor this year’s Silent Day, we have compiled a number of stories that will make you see the real Bali. Our contributor Agung Parameswara shares the sincerity of the Balinese in worshipping their God and paying tribute to their ancestors in ‘Craft & Culture’. A photo series by Phil Green also captures the devotion of the Balinese in a number of ceremonies – flip through ‘Foto Folio’ to see the images. Our ‘Dine & Delights’ reveals authentic Balinese cuisine at Raja’s Balinese Restaurant at Nusa Dua Beach Hotel and Spa. Meanwhile, Edna Tarigan and Taufan Wijaya take us out of the island to see the making of Ondel-Ondel in ‘Capital Corner’ and the unique culture of Toraja in ‘Beyond Bali’ respectively. All in all, we hope our stories will be good company during your Silent Day in Bali. One more tip; if the night sky is clear during the Silent Day, don’t forget to look up… and stargaze.

‘Om Shanti Shanti Shanti Om…’ The Team

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BALI & BEYOND General Manager GOESTAMAR ARDIBRATA goestamar@baliandbeyond.co.id Managing Editor RISTY NURRAISA risty@baliandbeyond.co.id Editorial Advisors A.A. GEDE RAI, JOHN M. DANIELS Graphic Advisor WENIAR PRAMESTI Senior Graphic Designer I PUTU PARTAJAYA putu@baliandbeyond.co.id Web & Graphic Designer MELIYANA SANTOSO meli@baliandbeyond.co.id Advertising & MarComm. Manager D. ARIEF SENOAJI arief@baliandbeyond.co.id Senior Advertising Sales Executive MEE NOVITA mee@baliandbeyond.co.id F&A Supervisor A.A. KETUT SUKERTI agung@baliandbeyond.co.id Accounting Staff KADEK YULI MARISNA yuli@baliandbeyond.co.id GA & Personnel Adm I GEDE ADARA adara@baliandbeyond.co.id Distribution NYOMAN TRI HARIAN SAPUTRA nyoman@baliandbeyond.co.id

Contributors AGUNG PARAMESWARA, ANAIS AMANS, EDNA TARIGAN, KATIE TRUMAN, TAUFAN WIJAYA

Jakarta Marketing Services/Subscription Phone : 021 - 2765 1717 / 1718 Ext. 7344 Fax : 021 - 2765 1716 Publisher PT. BUMI DIAN KUSUMA Commissioner SOETIKNO SOEDARJO Director MAULANA INDRAGUNA SUTOWO Division Head MRA Printed Media INDRIATI WIRJANTO

OFFICE Gedung Bali White House - Block IV Jl. Dewi Sri No. 23, Kuta 80361- Bali Tel: 0361 9348339, 085 100 868601, 085 100 868602 Fax: +62 361 750075 E-mail:mag@baliandbeyond.co.id http://www.baliandbeyond.co.id

Bali & Beyond Magazine is published monthly by PT. Bumi Dian Kusuma under the direction of MRA Media, Jakarta. Although every care is taken, neither the publishers nor any of their designees assume responsibility for the opinions and information expressed by editorial contributors. All material in this publication is copyrighted and cannot be reproduced without written permission of the publisher or author. All trademark and rights to Bali & Beyond are reserved by PT Bumi Dian Kusuma. Editorial materials may be submitted for consideration to the editorial office. Bali & Beyond is not responsible for the return of unsolicited material. © 2006 Bali & Beyond ISSN 0216-4590

A member of

Endorsed by

BALI GOVERNMENT TOURISM OFFICE Jl. S. Parman, Niti Mandala Renon, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 222 387, 226 313 Fax: (0361) 226 313

CONTRIBUTORS

www. skal.org skalbali@dps.centrin.net.id

AGUNG PARAMESWARA is a Bali-based photographer who freelances for Getty Images News. His work has been published by Reuters,The New York Times and The Wall Street Journal among others. (www. agungparameswara.com)

ANAÏS AMANS

EDNA TARIGAN

KATIE TRUMAN

TAUFAN WIJAYA

is a French journalist and fashion designer. She is a travel lover, always ready for adventure. She never leaves her notebook to share her experiences and memories with us. Follow her on Instagram : @ana_amans

is a Jakarta-based travel writer. She began her professional carrier as a journalist, living in Bali for a year then moving back to Jakarta to chase another dream. www.edededan.com

waved goodbye to her native England fifteen years ago and has been living in Southeast Asia as a freelance writer ever since. She contributes to numerous international publications on her two big loves, Vietnam and Indonesia.

is working on an MA in Journalism in the Philippines and personal photojournalism projects on water & sanitation and women with cancer. Follow him on Twitter @ taufanwijaya_ or www.taufanwijaya.com

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THE SUN... THE SAND... THE SURF... THE CULTURE OF PARADISE AND OVER 18,000 SURROUNDING ISLANDS

contents 03.17 M A R C H 2017 Volume 18 No. 202

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SINCERELY BALI

COUNT YOUR BLESSINGS

INVITE&INDULGE

The devotion of Balinese people in worshipping their Gods

Ancient Balinese treatment at Waroeng Djamoe Spa

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STEP BY STEP

PHOTOS & FUN FACTS

LIFESTYLE&LEISURE A visit to Ganesha Cultural Centre

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SIGHTS&SOUNDS

Snapshots and quotes picked up throughout January and February

DINE&DELIGHTS

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DINE LIKE A KING

Indulge in Balinese cuisine at Raja’s restaurant

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PROFILE&PORTRAIT TRAVEL THROUGH TIME

Komang Ary talks about Indonesian heritage artefacts

14 PRIMEPROMOTION Hot deals and promotions of the month that shouldn’t be missed

16 NEW&NEWS This month’s select news updates from the island’s tourism industry and what’s new around the island

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6 2 BEYONDUPDATES News updates from the tourism industry and what’s new beyond Bali

64 SEE&SEEN

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REST&RELAXATION KINGDOM OF LOVE Stay at Ayodya Resort Bali

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FOTOFOLIO

THE SPIRITUAL HEART OF BALI Phil Green captures Balinese spiritual ceremonies 10

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Snapshots of events and happenings within the preceding month

66 BALIMAPS Map of Bali showing specific tourism areas and places of interest, as well as a distance scale between the island’s main destinations

70 INFOINDEX Useful directory of companies and island-based businesses

FIRST COLUMN PHOTO BY AGUNG PARAMESWARA, SECOND COLUMN PHOTO BY PHIL GREEN, THIRD COLUMN PHOTO COURTESY OF W BALI - SEMINYAK

CRAFT&CULTURE


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THE SUN... THE SAND... THE SURF... THE CULTURE OF PARADISE AND OVER 18,000 SURROUNDING ISLANDS

contents 03.17

M A R C H 2017 Volume 18 No. 202

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ACTION&ATTRACTION JUST RIDE!

BEYONDBALI

Cycling through lush greenery in Bali Bike Park

Reveal the unique tradition of Toraja in North Sulawesi

CAPITALCORNER

DISCOVER TORAJA

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THE HOME OF ONDEL-ONDEL

Witnessing the making of Ondel-Ondel 12

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TOP AND BOTTOM LEFT PHOTOS BY TAUFAN WIJAYA BOTTOM RIGHT PHOTO BY ANAIS AMANS AND VICTOR JEOFFRE

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PRIMEPROMOTION

FANTASTIC SIX W Bali – Seminyak presents six ways for guests to “Own the Moment” to celebrate the resort’s sixth anniversary throughout March. The celebration starts on March 5 where Purple Disco Machine will “Own the Moment” on a sunset session at Woobar. “Beats in Paradise” will let music enthusiasts create a masterpiece or take a masterclass with W Bali’s Music Curator Damian Saint at W Sound Suite – a music session is available from Rp. 2,000,000/two hours. If you want to hide from the crowd, “Vibrant Villas” program offers 20 percent off for their Marvelous One-Bedroom Villa with rates starting from Rp. 5,100,000++/room/night. Don’t forget the “Away Spa Launch Afterglow” that will pamper you with options from five minutes to one hour of either a Hot & Cold Face Massage, Express Mani-Pedi or a Head Rush Massage. The resort also offers “The Brunch of All Brunches” that indulges guests with selections of Pan-Asian cuisine at Starfish Bloo’s Sunday Brunch – the brunch is available from Rp. 535,000++/person, including a glass of bubbles and free-flow non-alcoholic beverages. And if you’re looking for some adventure, take the “Insider Adventure” to discover Bali’s culture, lush jungles, and hidden beaches – the resort’s DJI drone photographer will also capture your adventure and you can bring the photos home. W Bali – Seminyak Jalan Petitenget, Kerobokan, Seminyak, (0361) 3000-106 www.wretreatbali.com

A HEALING JOURNEY

ALL COURTESY PHOTOS

This year, Mandapa, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve will be welcoming three world-class wellness practitioners to be their healing masters in residence. The first one being Andrew Rosenstock, an international healing artist and yoga teacher. From March 6 to 25, Andrew will be holding a Thai and Yogabased massage as well as conducting healing sessions to help you find balance, release tensions and heal your mind, body and soul. Usui reiki master and practitioner Nicky Kassapian and Californian massage therapist Julian Eymann will also conduct classes and therapies from June 25 to July 8 and from September 4 to 15 respectively. Interested? Book a Healing Master InResidence treatment and get 20 percent off to stay at the resort’s Suites and Villas. Mandapa, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve Jalan Kedewatan, Banjar Kedewatan, Ubud (0361) 479-2777 www.mandapareserve.com

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THE FINE PAIR On March 17, Kayuputi Restaurant at The St. Regis Bali Resort is hosting its first wine pairing dinner of 2017. Delectable six-course menu will be presented, all are courtesy of the resort’s talented culinary team led by Chef Gunatika and supervised by Executive Chef Agung Gede. Each dish will be beautifully paired with Mazzei fine wine, such as Mazzei Fonterutoli Chianti Classico DOCG, Mazzei Siepi Rosso Toscana IGT, and more. The Mazzei Wine Dinner is available at Rp. 2,100,000 nett/person, and will start at 7.30 p.m. with a pre-dinner cocktail at 7 p.m. Kayuputi Restaurant The St. Regis Bali Resort ITDC Lot S6, Nusa Dua (0361) 8478-111 www.stregisbali.com

FLAWLESS SKIN Cocoon Medical Spa proudly launches the newest treatment named ND YAG Laser that will make your skin more aglow than ever. Laser treatment is gaining more popularity across the world as it improves your skin in an efficient and quick way, and ND YAG Laser can specifically help reduce pigmentation and freckles as well as remove tattoos. ND YAG Laser can also improve skin tone, reduce facial wrinkles and fine lines, stimulate new collagen, help firm and tighten the skin, and more. The treatment is safe as it doesn’t involve any surgery. Cocoon Medical Spa Sunset Road, Legian 0811-388-2240 www.cocoonmedicalspa.com

THE FOOD HAVEN Situated opposite Ubud’s central parking and a stone’s throw away from Monkey Forest, Habitat is bringing a new vibe to Ubud’s culinary scene. The restaurant presents delicious Pan-Asian cuisine with inspirations from South East Asia and embraces healthy foods and drinks. Habitat also aims to help promote sustainable business by working closely with local farmers, suppliers and community – the fruits and vegetables are sourced from Bedugul, while the coffee is handled by Seniman Coffee & Studio. Designed with modern tropical style with the use of terracotta, wood and bamboo elements, Habitat is the place to be for breakfast and lunch in Ubud. Habitat Jalan Monkey Forest No. 88x, Ubud, (0361) 971-633 www.habitatubud.com

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NEW&NEWS

HAPPILY EVER AFTER Jewel Box, the newly-revamped wedding venue at Sofitel Bali Nusa Dua Beach Resort, will make your dream wedding come true. Designed with custom-made crystal glass art installations, Jewel Box boasts the remarkable view of the ocean and the silhouette of Nusa Penida on the horizon. A ribbon-shaped chandelier hanging on the ceiling and the floor-to-ceiling windows with floral-fractal motif also add beautiful touches to the venue. Jewel Box can accommodate up to 80 guests, and is surrounded by manicured garden that can function as a reception venue with 200 guests. Sofitel Bali Nusa Dua Beach Resort ITDC Lot N-5, Nusa Dua, (0361) 849-2888, www.sofitel-bali-nusadua.com

KOREAN STYLE

ARTSY SEMINYAK “Nyaman” actually means “cozy” or “comfortable”, and Nyaman Gallery has successfully created a cozy space for art enthusiasts to enjoy the island’s contemporary art. Located in the heart of Seminyak, Nyaman Gallery is not only displaying paintings, photographs and sculpture, but also presenting Balinese jewelry and more. The gallery works closely with Indonesian and international artists to present the best of their creations. Nyaman Gallery also welcomes guests who seek for consultations on interior design and scenography. Nyaman Gallery Jalan Basangkasa No. 88, Seminyak (0361) 736-226 www.nyamangallery.com

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ALL COURTESY PHOTOS

Located at Samasta Lifestyle Village, Chir Chir Fusion Chicken Factory is bringing Korean-style dishes to the island. Choices of delicious chicken are offered – be it deep fried or roasted chicken, the dish you’re having will even be more flavorful with a special Korean sauce. At Chir Chir, you can also experience Chiamek, a new trend in Korea to pair your chicken dish with a cold beer. Chir Chir has Chir Cream Beer with whipped cream to accompany your dining experience. The restaurant is open for lunch and dinner. Chir Chir Fusion Chicken Factory Samasta Lifestyle Village Jalan Wanagiri No. 1, Jimbaran (0361) 472-5777 Instagram: @chirchirindonesia


A FAIRY-TALE WEDDING Make your fairy-tale dream wedding come true at The Glass House. The newest wedding garden resort by Tirtha Bridal has a unique architecture with warm lighting, and is surrounded by a beautiful tropical garden. The Glass House has a threebedroom villa and a number of wedding venues, one of them being The Moonlight Garden, a spill-out deck decorated with plants that can accommodate up to 150 people – it is perfect for dinner under the moonlight. The lobby area and lobby lounge can also serve an intimate dinner for 40 people, while the pool terrace can host an outdoor dinner for 70 people. The Plumeria Room is also another beautiful wedding venue at the resort – this room is decorated with glass walls and boasts 180-degree view of the tropical garden. It is as if you’re holding a wedding reception in the middle of a forest. The Glass House Tirtha Bridal, Jalan Uluwatu, Banjar Dinas Karang Boma, Pecatu, (0361) 847-1151 www.tirthabridal.com

FOREST TREAT RIMBA Jimbaran Bali by AYANA proudly announces the opening of its newest addition, the Forest Bar. Boasting the view of the resort’s lush greenery, Forest Bar indulges guests with delicious Brazilian- and Caribbean-style finger skewers – expect to taste some perfectly grilled Sandwich Cubano, marinated steak with chimichurri sauce, fresh vegetables, and more. Don’t forget to pair your dishes with the bar’s unique cocktails that are rich with exotic flavors inspired from Puerto Rico, Jamaica, Peru, Cuba and Mexico – try their Tiki cocktails, Mojitos, Margaritas. Forest Bar also has pressed juices for a healthy option. RIMBA Jimbaran BALI by AYANA Jalan Karang Mas Sejahtera, Jimbaran, (0361) 846-8468 www.rimbajimbaran.com

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A NEW TWIST MoVida Bali may only be one year old, yet the restaurant keeps on making innovations to satisfy the island’s food enthusiasts. Located on the ground floor of Katamama, MoVida Bali presents 20 new dishes alongside their all-time favorite menu. Some of the new highlights are Txangurro, a delicious Basque-style baked mud crab, and Cordero, a Pyreneesstyle lamb cooked with white wine and paprika sauce. The restaurant also offers the new Sardinas en Escabeche (saffronpickled sardines) and Vieira that consists of moon scallops, Iberico and potato foam. So, if you’re looking for some new authentic Spanish tapas on the island, you know where to go. MoVida Bali Katamama Jalan Petitenget No. 51 B, Seminyak (0361) 302-9940 www.katamama.com


CRAFT&CULTURE

SINCERELY BALI

HOW THE BALINESE STAY TRUE TO THEIR ROOTS TO WORSHIP THEIR GODS AND PAY TRIBUTE TO THEIR ANCESTORS…

A

present offerings – which are made of harvests and crops – to the spirits. Mount Agung (the highest mountain in Bali) is believed to be the home of the Gods and ancestors. Hence, the mountain is known as the Mother of the Mount, and it is sacred for the Balinese.

s the center of tourism

journalist myself, I was intrigued to

Three years ago, my family got

in Indonesia, Bali has

capture their bhakti – the sincerity

our turn to take care of our ancestral

experienced so many

of the Balinese in worshipping their

family temple in our hometown.

changes. According

God and paying tributes to their

Every Balinese family has to take

to the Tourism and

ancestors through a visual story that I

care of their family temple for three

am sharing with you here…

months. Once they’re done, another

Agriculture department of Bali, the island now has over 2,000 hotels

family will take over the duty for

with approximately 60,000 rooms.

MAN OF DUTY

another three months. Among the

Nearly 400 hectares of rice fields

The Balinese spiritual and religion

responsibilities are making daily

have been transformed into houses

are rooted back to Indian Hinduism,

offerings, performing ceremonies

and other establishments. At the

Buddhism and ancient animism belief.

on certain days such as during the

same time, the high economic

The theological basis of Hinduism in

Full Moon and Dead Moon, and

demand increases urbanization.

Bali comes from Indian philosophy

cleaning the temple.

However, despite the rapid

while animism belief inspires most of

development, the Balinese people

the rituals. The Balinese Hindu people

the temple, the Balinese celebrated

never forget their roots. Being

strongly believe that natural incidents

Galungan and Kuningan, two of

a Balinese Hindu and a photo

are caused by spirits. Therefore, they

the most important religious days

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During our three-month tending


as the Balinese celebrate the victory

prepared everything. Mind you, my

of dharma (virtue) over adharma

family and I live in Denpasar, while

(vice). So, our family prepared all of

the temple is in Gianyar, which

Village where the community holds

the offerings for our family temple,

means we had to travel around 35

a ritual named Ngusaba Puseh

including making and erecting the

km back and forth every day to

every year to honor their ancestors

Penjor (bamboo poles decorated

take care of the temple. And during

and to welcome the guardian spirits

with coconut leaves) which is a

the Galungan and Kuningan day,

of the village. On my visit, some

symbol of our respect towards nature

we had to be there before sunrise.

people were in trance and led the

and victory.

This experience made me see and

community to the temple, while

admire the sincerity of my parents

others came screaming from all

at 3 a.m. My mother said, “We

in practicing their beliefs. They have

around the temple. They ran to the

must deliver and place the offerings

sacrificed their time and materials to

center of the temple and danced

as early as we can. We should be

perform their bhakti to their ancestors.

in trance. The men were in a state

On the Galungan day, we woke

finished before 7 a.m., before people

villages in Karangasem Regency. The first one was Selumbung

of trance and started to hit their

since we have to serve the pilgrims

BHAKTI IN KARANGASEM

and help them place their offerings.”

My parents’ devotion to the Balinese

Meanwhile, Bugbug, Jasri,

That day, we also prepared the tirtha

ritual made me wonder whether other

Bebandem and Ngis Village hold

(holy water) and bija (rice grains

Balinese people in other parts of

the greatest ritual in Karangasem

soaked in flower-fragrant water to

Bali would do the same. Would they

named Ngusaba Gumang once

be put on the foreheads as a symbol

perform their bhakti to their Gods and

every two years. The ritual takes

that ‘God has blessed you’) for those

ancestors, just like my parents did?

place at the top of the Gumang Hill,

who come to pray.

With this question in mind, I started

and is attended by around 10,000

my quest to capture the Balinese

people from the four surrounding

performing their bhakti in several

villages. They come by foot and

come flocking to the temple to pray,

It was 4 a.m. when we arrived at our ancestral family temple and

BALI&BEYOND MARCH 2017

abdomens or arms with a dagger without feeling any pain.

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the knight, the queen’s brother and more. During the dance, the audience will try to steal the banana leaves, while the dancers will whip them to prevent them from stealing. Banana leaves stolen during the performance are believed to be lucky charms and good for fertility. From traveling 35 km every day to take care of the ancestral family temple like my family did to going by foot to the top of the hill for a ceremony like the villagers of

walk to the top of the hill. The ritual is held to celebrate the reunion of their ancestors – they believe that the Gods from the four villages will gather together with the God of Gumang Hill. On top of the hill, the villagers will show their gratitude to the Gods by offering roasted pigs. A different kind of ritual is revealed in Trunyan Village, which is located in the crater area of Mount Batur. This village is home to Bali Mula, the original inhabitants of Bali who believe their ancestors were ancestors of the majority Balinese

Dasar and Ratu Sakti Pancering

Bugbug, Jasri, Bebandem and Ngis,

who migrated from Java and brought

Jagat, who are believed to be the

or holding performances like the

Hinduism from Majapahit Kingdom

ancestors of the Trunyan people. The

Selumbung and Trunyan Village, the

to the island. On October 2014,

Barong Brutuk is a rare ritual where

Balinese show a true devotion and

the Trunyan villagers held the Saba

the performers wear costumes made

sincerity when it comes to worshiping

Gede ceremony for their Gods. The

of dried banana leaves and wooden

their Gods and honoring their

celebration lasted for one month

masks. This dance is only performed

ancestors. And as a young Balinese

and ended with the Barong Brutuk

by young Trunyan men who have

person, I believe these rituals must be

been selected, purified, and gone

preserved as our precious heritage.

through a 42-day quarantine.

These rituals bring the Balinese

performance. Brutuk is derived from “baru tuwuk” which means “to meet.” This

There are 21 masks of Barong

performance symbolizes the meeting

Brutuk – each one represents one

to their age-old traditions. n

between Ratu Ayu Pingit Dalem

role, from the king to the queen,

By Agung Parameswara

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BALI&BEYOND MARCH 2017

people together while paying respect

PHOTOS BY AGUNG PARAMESWARA

descended from heaven, unlike the


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LIFESTYLE&LEISURE

painting class and some Jimbaran people to teach rindik (a Balinese traditional musical instrument), Balinese dance and canang (offering) making.”

FOLLOW THE WOODS I approached the four sculpture artists that were sitting on a bale in front of the cultural center for the wood-carving workshop. With friendly smiles, the artists welcomed me as I sat on the bale and talked to them. The three craftsmen and one craftswoman first began learning wood-carving when they were children. That day, each one of them had a sculpture they were

Step by Step LEARN BALINESE ARTS AND CRAFTS AT GANESHA CULTURAL CENTRE…

changed in July 2016 with the hope

working on – the men were carving

of preserving Balinese traditions.

a piece of wood, while the lady was

“We want to explore the real side

polishing a statue using sandpaper.

of Bali and remind people of what

“There are six steps to make a

made Bali famously known in the

wooden sculpture,” said one of

old days,” said Luhgde Suryatini

the men with a statue of Rama and

(Surya), the curator of the resort’s

Shinta, the Balinese legendary love

cultural program. “We sell their

icon, in his hands. “I’m currently on

artworks here, but that’s not our

the second phase where I need to

main purpose. We want to show the

smoothen the statue using one of

daily lives of Balinese people, what

these tools.”

they used to do before the tourism

L

industry grew on the island.” ocated within the area of

To reach this purpose, Ganesha

Four Seasons Resort Bali at

Cultural Centre scouted talented

Jimbaran Bay, the Ganesha

Balinese local artists and invited

Cultural Centre takes guests

them to hold a workshop once a

closer to Balinese arts and

week at the center. “We have artists

crafts. Workshops conducted by

from Bangli to teach Sokasi-weaving,

Balinese artists – who still produce

women from Karangasem for the

artworks in their hometown – are

songket-making, and craftsmen

available every day based on a

from Ketut Puja Gallery in Gianyar

schedule.

for the wood-carving workshop,”

Ganesha Cultural Centre used to be Ganesha Gallery. The function

Surya continued. “We also invite artists from Gianyar for the ceramic

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He showed me a number of tools and explained the process of woodcarving. “It all depends on the type and the size of the wood,” he said. “The design follows the wood.” The first process is to draw a design on a big chunk of wood. Using an axe, they then carve the wood following the design. And then, the process continues with carving the details, polishing the wood, and making ornaments, before the sculpture is finally ready to display and sell. He gave me one of the sharp tools to smoothen a small part of his Rama-Shinta wooden sculpture. This process was like peeling a fruit, but the sculpture was quite big. I can’t imagine how much time they invest to make one statue. No wonder a sculpture can take days, weeks or even months to finish. “The most difficult process is making the ornaments for details,” the artist continued while showing me the headpieces that Rama and Shinta were wearing that were full of small contortions. “Every detail counts.”

FOLLOW THE THREADS After the wood-carving workshop was done, I could hear the sound of “tok… tok…” like a knock on wood from one corner of the cultural centre. The sound came from wooden tools used to create a songket. Songket is one of Indonesian traditional handmade fabrics. Every region in the archipelago has its own songket style, including in Bali where they are made of pure silk. “This is Ibu

One of the craftsmen from Ketut Puja Gallery was working his sculpture at Ganesha Cultural Centre.

Nyoman Murni from Karangasem, our songket artist,” Surya introduced

BALI&BEYOND MARCH 2017

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threads attached to the tool – there were so many of them, I couldn’t help but wondering how a songket artist knows which thread to go which way every time they weave. It is quite complicated. But then again, they have been weaving since they were children, and are still producing songket for a living – Murni said she could spend two to five hours a day at her home to weave a songket. Slowly but surely I began to understand the pattern although I believe it takes years to actually master this art. These workshops made me see me to the lady who was busy

firsthand how complicated it is to

weaving a piece of fabric.

make a songket and a wooden

“I started learning to weave a

sculpture. And I truly admired the

songket when I was 12 years old,”

passion, patience and persistence

said Murni. She was sitting with two

that these traditional artists have.

pieces of wood tied on her body,

I had a newfound respect and

one on her stomach and the other on

appreciation for these artists at the

her back. Those wood pieces were

end of the day. n

tied to a bigger wooden tool where

By Risty Nurraisa

threads stretched neatly like strings to a harp. That day, Murni was

Ganesha Cultural Centre

making a black songket with golden

Four Seasons Resort Bali at Jimbaran

that I heard earlier was from another wooden tool that she used to press

Ibu Nyoman Murni, the songket weaver from Karangasem.

(0361) 701-010 www.fourseasons.com/jimbaranbay

the threads. Murni then told me to take her place. I was curious but nervous,

To celebrate this year’s Silent Day that falls on March 28, Ganesha Cultural

afraid that I would make a mistake

Centre is hosting a Monster Doll-Making workshop where guests can craft

that could ruin her creation. If

their own Ogoh-Ogoh (Monster Dolls) from March 20 to 24. Ogoh-Ogoh

somehow a mistake is done, the

is a Balinese giant effigy which is believed to represent bad evil. On the

artist has to redo everything all over

eve of Silent Day, an Ogoh-Ogoh parade is held across the island, and the

again. I couldn’t do that to her. With

giant dolls are burnt at the end of the night to banish the negative spirits.

two pieces of wood were tied to

The Monster Doll-Making class is available at Rp. 200,000/person for

my body, I continued where she left

non-staying guests and is a complimentary for the staying guests. Guests

off – Murni has done a part of the

can also make a mini Ogoh-Ogoh and take it home as a souvenir (with

fabric beautifully. While listening

additional charge) or bring their creation to the Ogoh-Ogoh Parade at the

to Murni’s instructions, I studied the

resort on March 27.

24

BALI&BEYOND MARCH 2017

FIRST PAGE PHOTOS COURTESY OF GANESHA CULTURAL CENTRE, ALL OTHERS BY RISTY NURRAISA

Bay, Jimbaran

motifs. The sound of “tok… tok…”


BALI&BEYOND MARCH 2017

25


DINE&DELIGHTS

DINE LIKE A KING

INDULGE IN REFINED AUTHENTIC BALINESE CUISINE IN A LUXURIOUS ROYAL SETTING…

T

he tables are covered with

hotel’s swimming pool, Raja’s takes

traditional dishes. Here in Raja’s, we

white flower-patterned

Balinese cuisine to a whole new

present these traditional dishes with

tablecloths. On each table,

level by recreating age-old Balinese

a five-star presentation.”

bronze plates and cutlery

recipes using premium local produce

are placed neatly, and a

and serving them in a sophisticated

Dua Beach Hotel & Spa around a

bronze goblet becomes the center

presentation. “Raja” means “king”

year to do research on the Balinese

piece. Some Balinese wooden

and at Raja’s, diners will be treated

traditional dishes and cooking

artworks adorn the walls, while on

like one…

techniques for authenticity. “We

It took the culinary team of Nusa

gathered some chefs and cooks

the other side of the room, a sphere and a kober (usually used for a

REAL BALI

from several areas in Bali. We held

Balinese ceremony) and several

The dishes at Raja’s are inspired

a competition where they had to

silver bokor (to place offerings

by several areas in Bali, one of

present the signature food of their

during a ritual) are on display.

them being the Puri Klungkung. The

hometown,” the resort’s Senior Sous

resort’s Sous Chef Tournant Ida

Chef Ketut Mudana explained how

Raja’s Balinese Restaurant at Nusa

Bagus Oka stated, “Puri Klungkung

they did the research before opening

Dua Beach Hotel & Spa which is

is the pioneer of Balinese food.

Raja’s. “Then we researched

very much inspired by Balinese

The people there often make

different kind of cooking techniques.

royal families. Located near the

new innovations that become our

We tried to implement modern

That is the luxurious setting of

Selections of Balinese Tapas.

26

BALI&BEYOND MARCH 2017


Raja’s has a luxurious interior design

techniques to elevate the traditional

hospitality service. When my friends

dishes.”

and I sat on our table, a waitress

The result, Raja’s was born in

put a bowl of rempeyek (Indonesian

2001 with the hope of introducing

crackers) in the bronze goblet in the

and preserving Balinese dishes

middle of our table.

to the world. But it’s not the only

As we munched on the crackers,

unique value that Raja’s has. Raja’s

the waitress patiently described

is different from any other Balinese

the menu to us. The selections of

restaurants as it is certified as a

Balinese dishes at Raja’s all seem

halal dining venue – meaning, all

delicious, it was quite hard for us

the dishes are made with ingredients

to decide. With the help of the

that contain no pork.

waitress, we finally decided to start our dinner with some appetizers

Another highlight from the tapas

TASTE OF BALI

from the Tapas sections. We were

menu was the delicious Crabmeat

On the night I had dinner at

still enjoying our talk and the

and Green Papaya Soup.

Raja’s with some friends of mine, I

crackers when our appetizers were

knew I was about to embark on a

served; Prawn Sate, Sate Lilit, and

were served. The Udang Pantung

remarkable Balinese culinary journey

Shredded Chicken with chili and

Mebase Kalas was the perfect option

as I entered the restaurant. Raja’s

lime sambal. But my favorite was the

for me – it was a lobster dish that

has a luxurious interior design, yet

12-Hour Braised Beef Cheek – the

had my jaw dropping, it looked so

the restaurant feels unintimidating

meat was so tender and flavorful

appetizing. The lush Balinese lobster

with warm lighting and top-notch

with aromatic Balinese spices.

meat was cooked to perfection and

BALI&BEYOND MARCH 2017

27

Not long after, the main courses


The crackers are put in the bronze bowl.

was served in delicious coconut

only make the meat tender, but also

turmeric curry sauce. Another

makes the spices blend beautifully

jaje ketan, kacang hijau and more.

highlight from the main course is

together. And unlike the other dishes

The cendol is another delicious

the Sate Gede which is a gigantic

that are served on a plate, the Bebek

option inspired by street food. Raja’s

barbecued chicken, lamb and beef

Betutu is especially presented on a

also has selections of ice cream

skewer served with long bean salad

trolley, and the waiter or waitress

made of local ingredients, like the

and sweet chili coriander dressing.

will carve the meat and serve it to

red bean ice cream. n

the diners.

By Risty Nurraisa

Of course, as the signature menu

coconut ice cream, dadar gulung,

of Raja’s, the Bebek Betutu is not to

To have a sweet ending, don’t

be missed. Served for four persons,

forget to save some room for dessert.

Raja’s Balinese Restaurant

the slow-cooked whole duck is

The Balinese Sweets is the star of

Nusa Dua Beach Hotel & Spa

marinated with 16 different Balinese

the dessert list as it elevates Balinese

BTDC Lot-N4, Nusa Dua

spices and wrapped in palm leaves.

street-food sweets to a high-quality

(0361) 771-210

The slow cooking technique does not

dish, consisting of fried bananas,

www.nusaduahotel.com

28

BALI&BEYOND MARCH 2017

FIRST PAGEAND SECOND PAGE BOTTOM PHOTOS COURTESY OF NUSA DUA BEACH HOTEL & SPA, ALL OTHERS BY AGUNG PARAMESWARA (INSTAGRAM: @SANGAVISUAL)

The Balinese sweet delight.


BALI&BEYOND MARCH 2017

29


PROFILE&PORTRAIT

descendant of dalang (puppet masters), keris makers (traditional blacksmiths) and Topeng dancers. BB: What made you decide to open Komang Ary Indonesian Arts Gallery? What where the challenges when opening the gallery? KA: This gallery is more than just a business for me, it is also my medium to express my hobby and passion in antiques and arts. It is a place to show my devotion to quality artworks. The gallery was opened in 2005. There were no significant challenges during the pre-opening because I was merely driven by my love towards these historical objects. However, the first challenge

KOMANG ARY, OWNER OF KOMANG ARY INDONESIAN ARTS GALLERY, TALKS ABOUT HIS PASSION IN COLLECTING ANTIQUES TO HELP PRESERVE THE COUNTRY’S HISTORICAL OBJECTS…

N

antiques, especially Balinese antiques, to the younger generation and local tourists because they often think that these beautiful centuries-old heritage artefacts from our ancestors are “out of date”, which is understandable due to modernization. International tourists are more enthusiastic probably because they know the importance of understanding the culture of a nation and it makes them appreciate these artworks more.

estled in Lodtunduh

introduce Indonesian historical arts

Village in Ubud,

to the world and preserve them for

BB: What are your visions and

Komang Ary

future generations. To Bali & Beyond

missions in opening the Komang Ary

Indonesian Arts

(BB), he shares the importance of

Indonesian Arts Gallery?

Gallery is home

protecting national treasures…

KA: My mission is to make the

to age-old art objects from statues,

younger generation fall in love with

textiles, artefacts, paintings and

BB: What made you interested in

Indonesian antiques. I hope they

more. All are sourced across the

antiques?

are also encouraged to preserve

archipelago. For owner Komang

KA: I’ve been interested in antiques

and appreciate the high values

Ary (KA), this gallery does not only

since 2004 when I was only 22

and history of the objects. As an

serve as a place to display his

years old. I think my love for

art dealer, I believe I have the

collection but also as a way to help

antiques is in my DNA. I am the

responsibility to save and preserve

30

BALI&BEYOND MARCH 2017

PHOTOS COURTESY OF KOMANG ARY INDONESIAN ARTS GALLERY

Travel through Time

I found was to introduce these


antiques. When I go hunting for

is everything that is related to death

antiques in the villages, I often find

and black magic in the old days,

people don’t really understand the

like the door of a tomb from Toraja

historical values in these items and

which is really rare as it has a

therefore they are not interested in

human (an ancestor) figure. I also

preserving them. Old artefacts are

have an ancient Balinese statue that

often forgotten and easily replaced

I got from a balian (Balinese healer

with new ones. The old ones are

or shaman) who used to practice

either damaged due to the weather

black magic.

or destroyed by people – some are

This may sound odd, but for

burnt while others are thrown away

me, death is not the end but

into the ocean.

rather a beginning to infinity and

An artefact from Toraja.

enlightenment. There are a lot

BB: What are your wishes for

of ancient cultures in the world,

Indonesian arts and history through

including in Indonesia, that considers

this gallery?

death rituals as more important than

KA: Not only do I wish to preserve

other ceremonies, like weddings.

historical objects, I also want to

Some Indonesian tribes have a

in South Sulawesi, Batak in North

encourage people to have a good

special death ritual, like the Toraja

Sumatra, and Bali.

sense of art and appreciate it. I believe our appreciations of historical arts is one of the foundations that

BB: Do you have a message for

The balian statue.

Indonesian younger generation to encourage them in preserving local

makes us a great nation.

culture? BB: Your collection is sourced from

KA: I’m not anti-modernization or

across the archipelago, not just from

against western culture – I still listen

Bali. How do you collect them?

to their music too although not as

KA: To collect historical objects from

often as I enjoy local art. I just find it

outside of Bali, I used to go hunting

strange for Indonesians – especially

in certain areas. However, it’s quite

Balinese because I’m a Balinese – to

challenging because I often encounter

know western culture better than

technical problems and it’s not really

their own. Our culture is a legacy

safe because there are bandits in

from our ancestors that becomes

several areas. So, I decided to build

our identity, and it breaks my heart

a system in Bali to help me collect

that it is often considered “old” or

arts and artefacts from all over

“out of date”. I believe that we have

Indonesia. The result is beyond my

to know and understand our own

expectation as this system often helps

“home” first before we know other

me find Indonesian historical objects

people’s home. n

in other countries and return them

By Risty Nurraisa

home to Indonesia. Komang Ary Indonesian Arts Gallery BB: Do you have a personal favorite

Jalan AA Gede Rai, Lodtunduh

collection?

Village, Ubud, (0361) 981-619

KA: My personal favorite collection

www.komangary.com

BALI&BEYOND MARCH 2017

31


INVITE&INDULGE

Count Your Blessings HEAD TO THE DIVINE AND SPIRITUALLYINCLINED HOTEL TUGU BALI TO INCORPORATE ANCIENT BALINESE TRADITIONS AND RITUALS TO YOUR SPA AND WELLNESS REGIME…

D

edicated to preserving

Peranakan and Balinese therapies

mind, meditating, awakening

and celebrating

and health treatments; traditions that

the consciousness, and finding

Javanese and Balinese

combine spirituality with physical

unexpected sources of inner power.

spirituality and their

healing to achieve the ultimate

Like the rest of the property, these

old artistic cultural

harmony of mind, body and soul

chambers are littered with old

heritage and traditions, Hotel Tugu

and enhance total deep relaxation

objects and artworks, recounting

Bali is set to be a unique, living-

and state of peacefulness.

stories from the archipelago’s rich

breathing museum hotel, home to its

Waroeng Djamoe Spa is

Indonesian proprietor’s vast personal

comprised of six intoxicatingly

collection of artworks, antiquities

charming garden kamar (chambers),

CHAMBER OF SECRET

and vintage furnishings from across

individually spaced out amongst

Waroeng Djamoe Spa has two

the archipelago. Amongst the

the pretty beachside gardens and

stand-out rituals that are intrinsic to

rapid development in Canggu, this

linked by stone walkways dissecting

ancient Balinese Hindu traditions.

internationally-acclaimed boutique

manicured lawns. Each offers a

One is “Purnama (Full Moon) and

hotel is one of the originals and

different theme and ambiance

Tilem (New Moon) Massage Energy

evocative of bygone times that rests

specific to certain treatments and

of the Bali Moon” that celebrates

alongside Canggu’s surf beach. Hotel

a natural setting for relaxing the

the highly significant and sacred Full

Tugu Bali is standing on a sacred blessed ground and neighbouring a revered temple. Nestled within the hotel is a spa sanctuary that is equally wildly atmospheric and mystical, like none other on the island. Waroeng Djamoe Spa – the name is derived from ancient Javanese for traditional apothecary – connects with ancient mystical East rituals, focusing on centuries-old authentic Javanese,

The Kamar Mantra.

32

BALI&BEYOND MARCH 2017

cultural heritage.


Have a flower bath in the Kamar Molek Seger Waras.

and New Moon days and the good

expressions of enlightened

sarong, I found my therapist slowly

fortunes and energies emitting from

awareness, achieved through

pan-frying locally grown, organic

these magical rays. It incorporates

a verbal formula repeated in a

herbs, roots and spices – galangal,

a rhythmic hand massage and

meditation or incantation. “Good”

ginger, lemon grass and cloves to

moon-lit sunken bath strewn with

Gods and spirits are believed to

name a few – over a gas flame on

frangipani petals, ended with a

reside in this room, maybe within the

the floor. This natural concoction,

Hindu beachside cleansing ritual and

several Hindu stone statues standing

blessed beforehand by a local

blessing ceremony at Tugu’s sacred

here. The walls are adorned with

Mangku (priest), is then poured

Barong Temple which makes it more

ancient artworks, a sunken stone

into cotton pouches, kept warmed

of a spiritual experience rather than

bath is edged with candles, and

and administered as heated herbal

a spa treatment. The other one is

Tibetan red box lanterns hang from

compresses, and finally repeatedly

“Pijitan” Mantra or Eastern Spirituality

the ceiling. Traditional gamelan

massaged in a circular motion over

Massage (available for 90 minutes at

music plays softly in the background

my entire body. This is alternated with

Rp. 874,500++) which is a part of

and balcony doors are left open,

a firm hand massage using warmed

the spa’s “Pijitan” Eastern Massages

allowing natural ocean breeze to

cold-pressed virgin coconut oil,

series. This ritual is a must-try and for

flow in. The stage is set.

freshly made in-house using cooking

that reason, I opted for this treatment on my last visit to the spa.

As for all treatments, my therapist

and extraction methods handed

collects me from the hotel lobby

down from village grandmothers. The

This profoundly meditative and

– which is another sensational,

wafting aromas of sweet incense,

blissful therapy must be administered

historically-charged kamar – to

aromatic fresh herbs and coconut oil

in the Kamar Mantra; a spiritually

lead me to Kamar Mantra that is

is additionally sensuous.

charged, exquisite chamber inspired

secluded away on the first floor of an

by Hindu mantras – multifaceted

outer wing. Once changed into my

BALI&BEYOND MARCH 2017

33

This deep healing tissue massage is simultaneously combined with the


manicured gardens. The therapist guided me through this ritual – my head was first sprinkled with holy water before I drank the pure rice wine from cupped hands (which was then smeared over my face and hair). Rice grains then deposited on my throat chakra and Third Eye, while a Frangipani flower was tucked behind one of my ears. I was then instructed to chant three times, “Om Shanti Shanti Shanti Om” which means “peace in your heart, on earth and always” with my hands clasped and raised to my forehead. Be sure, as I do, to book this therapist chanting ancient eastern

making my hairs stand on end, but

divine treatment for late afternoon

mantras – soft mesmerizing and

along with the blissfully soothing

so you can enjoy your post-treatment

mystic incantations repeated during

massage, they help balance my

blessing while watching the sun

the massage, believed to infiltrate

mind and soul and open up my

sink behind coconut palms and

into the spirit and soul and improve

chakras. Apparently, my therapist

experience the enchanting Kamar

well-being through the unconscious

has been given special powers from

Mantra aglow with candles and red

mind. In Balinese culture, mantras

the local Mangku to administer

lanterns. I feel totally relaxed and

are believed to be the conduit

these Hindu mantras, formulated

calmed, and physically and spiritually

connecting to the Gods and direct

specifically for this Tugu ritual.

recharged – at the very least, my skin

energy powers and a traditional

is super-soft and well-nourished from

way of healing practiced in the

POWERFUL MANTRAS

villages. These prayers are chanted

Afterwards I was given a Balinese

in slow, elongated and articulated

Hindu blessing on a narrow

handed a souvenir gift of the sacred

verses repeated three times, almost

wooden balcony, overlooking lovely

Mantras spoken that afternoon,

the lusciously rich coconut oil. Before the day ended, I was

printed on faux old scroll papers. On those papers written uplifting mantras for me to chant at home, like, “Ong Purnamabhuantu Tatatuastu” that with you and of everything that you experience in life.” Seems I really am truly blessed! n By Katie Truman Waroeng Djamoe Spa Hotel Tugu Bali Jalan Pantai Batu Bolong, Canggu (0361) 473-1701 www.tuguhotels.com

34

BALI&BEYOND MARCH 2017

PHOTOS COURTESY OF HOTEL TUGU BALI

means “bliss and contentment, be


BALI&BEYOND MARCH 2017

35


We took a closer look at the photo s sent to our Instag account, and could ram n’t help but fall in love with them all So we decided to . repost one of our favorites here. Ke tagging @baliand ep beyondmagazine on Ins photos might be tagram and your in our next issues!

@soul_ofa_gypsy beautifully captured sunset in Tanah Lot Temple.

It was one be autiful day at Alila Seminya to indulge in k. Don’t forget some healthy dishes at The you’re around Restaurant whe . n 36

BALI&BEYOND MARCH 2017

AYANA AYA YA NA RES RESORT O AN OR ORT AND D SPA S PA BAL BALII COURTESY CO TESY PHOTOS, COUR ALL OTHERS BY RISTY NURRAISA

SIGHTS&SOUNDS

Our cork board of photos, quotes and fun facts that we picked up while exploring in January and February...


Located on Sunset Road in Seminya delicious Ja k, SumoBoo panese dess Bali offers erts – their star of the m ice cream bo enu. SumoB wls are the oo savory dish Bali also se es, like nood rves selectio ns of les and chic ken popcor n.

All the more reaso n to visit AYANA Resort and Spa BA the resort’s Dama LI as r Restaurant now serves selections and cold drinks as of hot well as desserts usi ng Tsujiri, a 155-y old Japanese gre earen tea brand. De licious O-matcha, cream, shaved ice soft ice , and more are wa itin g a.m. to 1 p.m. Tsu for you from 11 jiri’s O-matcha po wder and various of tea bags are als blend o available for pu rchase.

A traditiona l dance perfo rmed at Puri cremation ce Ubud, befo remony of on re a e of the roya began. l family mem bers BALI&BEYOND MARCH 2017

37


REST&RELAXATION

KINGDOM OF LOVE

WELCOME TO THE RAMAYANA-INSPIRED RESORT IN NUSA DUA…

O

nce upon a time in a land far away, a princess named Shinta was captured by

Rahwana, an evil spirit of Alengka. Her lover, Prince Rama, soon made it his mission to rescue her with the help of his loyal supporters, among a few of them were his brother Laksmana and the monkey advisor of Anggada, General Hanoman. The mission took 12 years to accomplish, and it wasn’t until Hanoman burnt down the capital city of Alengka that Rama finally put an end to Rahwana’s life and retrieved Shinta back to his arms. Together, Prince Rama and Princess Shinta returned to Ayodya Palace, where they lived happily ever after with their twin sons. That is the summary of the epic love story of “Ramayana” or also known as “Rama-Shinta”. The legend has an important place in the hearts of the Balinese that it is often depicted in a traditional dance performance, including the Kecak Fire Dance. This particular

38

BALI&BEYOND MARCH 2017


BALI&BEYOND MARCH 2017

39

“Ayodya” is the name of palace Princess “Ayodya” is Princess Shinta’s Shinta’sResort palace and Ayodya Bali and Ayodya Bali lives up to Resort its name. truly lives up to its name.


story is also where the inspiration

while a statue of Princess Shinta

greeted me, while splashing some

of Ayodya Resort Bali in Nusa Dua

stands proudly in the lobby, as if the

holy water to my face. “Please sit

derived from. “Ayodya” is the name

princess is welcoming guests to her

down.” She escorted me to a sofa on

of Princess Shinta’s palace, and

home.

the left side of the lobby and served

Ayodya Resort Bali lives up to its

Providing over 500 rooms,

me a refreshing welcome drink while

name with a number of wooden and

Ayodya Resort Bali offers three

her friend helped me check in. Once

stone craftsmanship decorating the

different categories; Ayodya Resort

everything was ready, a bellboy

resort and friendly hotel staff treating

(Deluxe and Grande Room), Suites

escorted me to my room.

guests like royalty…

and Ayodya Palace. I stayed at the

The Ayodya Garden View room

Ayodya Garden View room in the

at the Ayodya Palace has a classical

STAY AT THE PALACE

Ayodya Palace, and I truly enjoyed

look with teak-wood furniture.

It has been 26 years since Ayodya

the privacy it offered. As a guest

Touches of Indonesian design

Resort Bali first opened its doors

to the Ayodya Palace, I had the

highlight the room, like batik pillows

– the hotel is one of the first three

privilege to check in at the Ayodya

on the bed and a batik fabric on the

hotels to stand on the Nusa Dua

Palace’s private lobby, which I

wall. The bathroom is luxurious, with

luxury hotel stretch. The property

personally found like a royal living

marbled floor and bathtub – one of

is designed with rich Balinese

room. A beautiful lady welcomed me

my favorite features in the room is the

heritage which becomes quite rare

with a warm smile when I arrived.

window by the bathtub that allowed

in this modern era where a lot of

She was standing in front of a

me to watch my favorite TV show

new hotels are constructed with

marbled pond at the center of the

while having a bath. The room also

modern design. A beautiful pond

lobby. Beside her was a goblet of

has a spacious wardrobe, a king-size

with Balinese stone crafts adorns

holy water.

bed, and a balcony overlooking the

the hotel’s manicured front yard,

“Welcome to Ayodya Palace,” she

resort’s beautiful pond.

PHOTOS COURTESY OF AYODYA RESORT BALI

Watch a cultural performance while indulging in a dinner at the Balinese Theater.

40

BALI&BEYOND MARCH 2017


UNWIND IN NUSA DUA Guests who stay at Ayodya Palace have a lot of privileges, one of them being daily afternoon tea that indulges guests with light bites, coffee and tea from 3 p.m. to 4.30 p.m. at Ayodya Lounge. The lounge has an indoor and outdoor area – during a sunny day, the outdoor area is a better option because Ayodya Palace’s private swimming pool is located right next to the lounge. Once the afternoon tea is done, guests can continue to unwind at the lounge with some refreshing drinks during the cocktail session. Ayodya Lounge also serves breakfast for Ayodya Palace’s guests. Aside from those privileges, guests at Ayodya Palace can of course still enjoy the resort’s other facilities and dining venues. Located on the beachfront area of the hotel, Lagoona Beach Bar offers a different kind of Nusa Dua sunset session where guests can unwind on one of the colorful beanbags under the eyecatching umbrellas. For full-fulfilling

Sneak a peek the Grande Room.

meals, head to Lagoona restaurant that nestled adjacent to the beach bar. The restaurant offers steak and seafood BBQ – their Smoker’s steak

curious about the “Rama-Shinta”

the seniors have been there since the

is one of the highlights of the menu

love story, don’t forget to join this

day the hotel opened. This means,

that is worth to try.

Balinese dinner on a Saturday

they understand the hotel’s facilities

Other restaurants include Genji

to watch a live Kecak Dance

and hospitality standard by heart.

that serves Japanese cuisine

performance. Ayodya Resort Bali

The resort has become their second

specializing in a Teppanyaki set,

has complete facilities for leisure,

home and they treat their guests

Octopus that offers Italian food,

like an infinity swimming pool,

with love, just like they treat a family

Waterfall for international breakfast

children’s playground, a squash

member.n

and Indonesian dinner, and more.

court, spa and gym, and more.

By Risty Nurraisa

Ayodya Resort Bali also has an

Another highlight from my stay

open-air Balinese Theater that

experience is how well the hotel’s

Ayodya Resort Bali

serves Balinese-themed dinner only

staff treat all guests with warmth.

Jalan Pantai Mengiat, Nusa Dua

on Mondays, Wednesdays and

Most of the staff have been working

(0361) 771-102

Saturdays. For those who are still

at the property for years, many of

www.ayodyaresortbali.com

BALI&BEYOND MARCH 2017

41


FOTOFOLIO

The Spiritual Heart of Bali

More than three million Balinese people practice Hinduism. Their faith is at the very center of their lives, family and community. The Balinese pray to their Gods every day and are involved in various ceremonies and celebrations virtually every week. To the majority of Balinese, being devoted to their spiritual life, family, and community is their highest priority unlike most western cultures where material wealth often becomes a measure of life success. While many tourists and expats visit the more famous Hindu temples and witness traditional dances and ceremonies, very few appreciate the level of devotion and commitment of the Balinese to their spiritual lives. The Balinese spiritual ceremonies are often referred to as the “hidden or secret life of Bali” by western authors. However, the reality is in fact the exact opposite. The Balinese are remarkably open and inclusive with regard to their religion and various ceremonies. While many Balinese temples are architecturally interesting, they really come to life during ceremonies when they are abuzz with activities such as prayers, the giving and blessing of offerings, sacrifices, music and dances. The strong sense of spirituality, colors, sounds, and never-ending activity is a wonderful spectacle to experience. However, finding out what ceremonies are on, when and where across Bali is not so straightforward. The best resource for this is definitely not the internet but simply the annual Balinese calendar, which is readily available across the island. The calendar contains many details such as special Hindu religious days, Balinese days and week periods (which are not Gregorian!), full and new moon nights, and major Balinese holy days like Galungan, Kuningan and Nyepi. The most valuable is a separate listing of all odalan (temple ceremonies) by date and temple across the island – for the larger temples, these are a major spectacle. This is where to find out in advance what’s on, when, and where. In conclusion, to experience the real Bali, try to see some “non-tourist” Balinese temple ceremonies. I have found without exception that the Balinese are very welcoming and open to visitors. The only strong advice is to dress appropriately, behave respectfully with a low profile. Sadly some tourists believe if they have a camera in their hand they can freely wander around during ceremonies as they please. Thankfully nowadays the pecalang (Balinese security) are generally in attendance to quickly sort out such indiscretions! By Phil Green Photos by Phil Green (www.baliphotoblog.smugmug.com)

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Kehen Dancers

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Masceti Offerings 44

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Going Home


The Balinese Boys

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Foursome Friends

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Holy Spring for All BALI&BEYOND MARCH 2017

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ACTION&ATTRACTION

JUST

seekers. And that is what Austrian Alexander Springenschmidt, creator of the Bali Bike Park and successful entrepreneur, had fully understood. Two years ago, he opened the

Ride! CYCLING THROUGH BALI’S LUSH GREENERY IN BALI BIKE PARK…

first and only bike park in Bali. Originally established for the expert riders, Bali Bike Park also gives a sensational experience for beginners and those who are simply curious to discover downhill, a discipline that is closer to an extreme sport than to an easy ride!

HEART OF BEDUGUL Armed with my heart and basic cycling skills, I decided to give up my beach time for a day full of adventure. Bali Bike Park, here I come! My day began early in the morning at an area next to Chillhouse, a meeting place for surfers that Alexander created when Canggu was still undiscovered. With the help of the staff and Victor, my boyfriend who loves to ride a bike in France, I chose my bike and my helmet. Elbow pads and kneepads are optional but highly

P

aradise beaches, tropical heat and dream waves – those are probably the first pictures you have when you think about Bali.

However, Bali is much more than just white sandy beaches and bikinis. If you go to the inland regions, you will discover a whole new world where active volcanoes, rice fields and lush forest become incredible playgrounds for the adrenaline

Welcome to Bali Bike Park!

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Ride a bike through Bali’s lush greenery and pump up your adrenaline.

recommended, even for the most audacious. Considering I had no idea what to expect, I decided to wear all of them for safety. I mean, we never know, right? Then, we moved further to reach the basecamp located in the heart of Bedugul. During our journey, we went beyond the touristic areas and discovered the Balinese daily life – we encountered farmers and school children with smiles you can only find in Bali. Lye, my guide for the journey, is proud of “his”

DOWN THE HILL

chance to escape: I must go down

bike park which is a windfall for

After a quick briefing, it was time

on my bike. Bali Bike Park offers

local employment with close to 20

for me to go up in one of the pick-

seven different tracks for riders to

employees – Bali Bike Park has

up trucks that brought me to the

tumble down the 200 meters drop.

workers to handle the maintenance

starting point of the tracks, around

The two blue tracks are the easiest

of the tracks, shuttle services and

1400 meters above the sea level.

level, then there are four red and

of course, marketing and sales.

The way up was an experience

one black tracks. There are also

Mahesa Pratama, the co-managing

on its own, and already I was

jumps for the experienced riders

partner of Bali Bike Park, defined

enjoying big thrills – and I could

and the hotheads. Judging by my

the park as “a way to incite people

see the importance of being fully

boyfriend’s look, we decided to

to work together, federated by this

equipped!

start with the “Berm line” and the

project.”

Before I knew it, I had no

BALI&BEYOND MARCH 2017

“Hipsta”, the two smooth and family-

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While Lye and Victor were racing

BE FREE!

That morning, due to the rainy

in the red tracks, I decided to take

By the time I reached the finish line,

season, the soil was slippery, and

a break to catch my breath and

I definitely had a lot of fun – the

I literally spent my first run on my

captured some nice photos. I realized

sensation of speed and adrenaline

bottom, enjoying memorable cold

that everyone went at their own pace

rush were truly exhilarating. I was

sweat and an astonishing quantity of

and the staff was available to make

tired but happy. It was 2 p.m.

mud on my trousers.

the day a the real custom-made

already, and it was time for the bike

experience. After a well-deserved

park to close for the day. After a

experience, I tried again. This time,

one hour break and against all

full day of new experience, I was

I was more confident and getting

expectation, I was ready to try again

ready to head down to one of Bali’s

used to my bike. I was beginning to

– and this time, I was fully energized

beautiful beaches again.

feel the ground. Slowly but surely, I

as I was surrounded by kids in the

After riding with Bali Bike Park, I

could feel the excitement and started

pick-up area who were even more

could understand more clearly what

to understand why Victor left me

excited than I was! Bali Bike Park is

Victor, Lye and Mahesa have been

every summer for a ride week in the

open to all – there is no age limit and

telling me; that riding a bike gives

French Alps to enjoy some thrilling

no fun limit. However, the guides are

you a sensational feeling of being

bike riding.

more advisers than professors.

free, even more so when you’re

Determined to have the best

surrounded by nature. You feel the pleasure of the present moment and enjoy some adrenaline surge and speed. Yes, I agree, but please, let my legs and arms rest for a few days before I get on another bike again. I feel carried away by the sensations and… aches. This is maybe the price to pay to participate in this new amazing experience! n By Anaïs Amans and Victor Jeoffre www.balibikepark.com

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PHOTOS BY ANAÏS AMANS AND VICTOR JEOFFRE

friendly tracks… as it says on paper.


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BEYONDBALI

Di scover

Toraja

OUR CONTRIBUTOR TAUFAN WIJAYA TOOK A TRIP TO TORAJA AND REVEALED ITS UNIQUE RITUAL TO RESPECT THE DEAD …

R

ainfall made the soil damp

valued by their shape, size, color,

and the scent of wet earth

and horns. The special buffaloes

lingered in the air. Green

are saleko and bonga that have

paddy fields pleased

a combination of white and black

my eyes. A number of

color. The price of these dual-color

Tongkonan (Toraja traditional

buffaloes is about ten times higher

houses) adorned the landscape with

than regular black buffalo of the

their exquisite ornaments and buffalo

same size.

horns. This is the beautiful scenery

There are hundreds of buffaloes

that welcomed me in Toraja, an

in the market. The government

area in South Sulawesi that is also

provides a special holding lot for

known as the “Land of The Heavenly

the herd. Men wearing sarongs with

Kings.”

a cigarette between their fingers

Toraja is famous for the way local

were roaming around in the market,

people see death differently than

some are selling their stocks while

any other region in the Indonesian

others are checking out to buy some.

archipelago. The Torajan burial

Some colorful painted kiosks stand

sites, mummification and rituals for the dead are the most unique and attractive traditions for visitors to see. However, a friend of mine told me that Toraja is more than all that. It didn’t take me long to agree with him once I arrived there.

LIVESTOCK FOR LIFE My journey in Toraja started at Bolu Traditional Market at Rantepao in North Toraja. The market is known as a livestock market. It is the center

A visitor and a buffalo installation art at Rantepao Art Festival.

of buffalo exchange for the entire Torajan people. Here, buffaloes are

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The Lemo burial site where Tau Tau (the wooden statues) are displayed to represent the deceaced burried in the graves.

along the buffalo market selling

and Rambu Solo’, a funeral ritual

STORY OF THE DEAD

daily needs and meals. On the other

where family and relatives take the

In Toraja, a buffalo can also be used

side of the market is the pig market

body or the remains of the deceased

as a token to pay a debt or other

which is filled with the sound of their

to their last resting place like a

transaction. Buffaloes also symbolize

squeals as they are transferred from

grave, a cave or a silo. The Torajans

hierarchy, and that’s why many of

one vehicle to another. It is as if they

believe that the dead people are

the Tongkonan have buffalo’s horns.

know that destiny awaits them.

in a state of illness, and they will

The more horns they have, the higher

become eternal beings when they

position they sit in the society.

It is heart breaking to see these

Tongkonan is a boat-shaped

animal transactions, but livestock

are taken to their last resting place.

plays an important part in the

Rambu Solo’ ritual costs a lot of

traditional Toraja house made of

Torajan life. Buffaloes have a crucial

money, thus it can take months to

wood and bamboo. Tongkonan is

role in the tradition – they often

years for a family to hold this ritual

derived from “tongkon” which means

become an offering in Rambu Tuka

after a family member passes away.

“to sit together.” It is actually more

BALI&BEYOND MARCH 2017

55


Torajan people practice matriarchy.

that makes the air so fresh and

of a main building, several smaller

Each Tongkonan is beautifully

clear. The buildings have a grand

ones for family members and a

painted in red, black and orange,

structure, and the thatched-roofs

rice storage building which is the

and decorated with carvings. This

have vines sprawling on them.

smallest one. The main building is

iconic structure is also often applied

There is also a small museum where

where the body of the deceased

to government and public building

travelers can learn the history of

is kept before the Rambu Solo’

design, like those in Rantepao.

Toraja, including how they used to

burial ceremony is held. It can be

I visited a Tongkonan in Kete

live and dress in the past.

easily recognized by the stack of

Kesu, one of the best well-known

horns at the center of the house.

Tongkonan with a burial sites,

see that Kete Kesu is very well

Members living in one complex are

situated on a hill. Kete Kesu complex

maintained. The area is clean with

of the same ancestor line from their

is nestled away from the main road,

cobbled pavement for easy access.

grandmother’s side (Nene’) – the

and is surrounded by rice fields

The burial site at the back of Kete

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From the entrance, we can already

PHOTOS BY TAUFAN WIJAYA

like a private complex consisting


The unique Tongkonan, the Toraja traditional house.

near these remains, perhaps to show respect as they believe the deceased

The statue of Jesus at Buntu Burake.

continue on living. The area is quite humid, so some of the coffins are covered in mold. Most burial sites in Toraja are well preserved – and several have souvenir shops for visitors. Some of the most interesting sites are Londa where coffins are planted in caves and Lemo where coffins are kept within the mountain walls. There are many more burial sites in Toraja, but the few I mentioned here are easy to access and remarkable to see for travelers who have limited time.

LIVELY SITES

statue of Jesus at Buntu Burake,

Having seen enough of the burial

which somewhat looks like Christ

sites, next on my agenda is to find

the Redeemer in Brazil. He stands

some tenun (traditional fabric) in

in glory with His hands wide open.

Galugu in the north of Rantepao.

I was pretty lucky to get the chance

Here, the weavers are middle-aged

to see this statue because by early

mothers who work in their workshop

January 2017 this site is closed to

which is also their showroom. At

the public until further notice due to

the end of my trip, I visited the

infrastructure development – which is much needed, as I found it quite challenging to drive up the hill through the rocky road. For me personally, a trip to Toraja is a cultural journey that

Kesu Tongkonan belongs to family

imprints many memories in my

members from one lineage. There are

mind. Its traditions, customs and

also several permanent silos there,

culture are so unique to see from

which are homes for the deceased.

up close, especially the way the

Some have a photo of the deceased

Torajan people prepare for death

hung in front of the silo, while

and respect the dead. To modern

others have a memorial monument

people it may seem odd, if not

that represents the deceased. Next

unconventional, but perhaps it is just

to these houses or silos, stands a

a different perspective or approach

mountain where the remains of

about life and death from a different

the deceased lie. Skulls are neatly

culture, which actually makes

organized and stacked. People often

Indonesian culture so rich. n

leave some drinks and cigarettes

By Taufan Wijaya

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CAPITALCORNER

THE HOME OF ONDEL-ONDEL OUR CONTRIBUTOR EDNA TARIGAN WITNESSED THE MAKING OF ONDELONDEL, THE ICON OF BETAWI CULTURE IN JAKARTA…

A

midst the unstoppable

a man who will control it from the

wear the doll to busk on the streets

development in

inside.

or around the housing complex in

Jakarta, there is a

On my recent visit to Pasar

Jakarta.

small area near Pasar

Gaplok, I saw how the local people

Gaplok (Gaplok

make ondel-ondel, not only to

to be called barongan. The name

Market) at Kramat Pulo in Central

preserve their Betawi culture but

changed when Betawi legendary

Jakarta that is home to ondel-ondel,

also to earn a living. The residents

artist Benyamin Sueb sang the

In the old days, ondel-ondel used

the icon of Jakarta. Ondel-ondel is a

of Kramat Pulo very much depend

“Ondel-ondel” song (a Betawi

giant effigy from Betawi (the original

on ondel-ondel. For years, they have

traditional song about the giant dolls

tribe of Jakarta) that has become

been making barongan – a different

parade) at a Betawi cultural event.

the symbol of Betawi culture in the

name for ondel-ondel – for artistic

Some said ondel-ondel means “to

capital city. The huge doll can fit

performances. They also often

swing” which is derived from their

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movements – an ondel-ondel looks like it is swinging from side to side every time it moves.

BEHIND THE SCENE It is easy to find ondel-ondel craftsmen in Pasar Goplok. Almost everyone at this small area can take you to an ondel-ondel maker who will be ready to make the kind of ondel-ondel you want. There are three groups of ondel-ondel makers in Kramat Pulo; they all live and work along the small river on Jalan Kembang Pacar which is located less than 200 meters from the Kramat District Office. The craftsmen begin to work in the morning until before 12 p.m. During my visit, I met Dede Sulaiman, one of the craftsmen in the area. He explained everything I needed to know about making an ondel-ondel – for a start, he told me that it takes four people to make one ondel-ondel. They use bamboos to construct the body of the effigies and a hula hoop to bind the bamboos together. Ondel-ondel dolls are huge – the tallest one can reach up to two meters. The most artistic, yet difficult, process is making the kedok which is the mask or the face of the ondelondel. Ondel-ondel is usually a pair of a male and a female doll, so the kedok is designed to resemble either a man’s face or a woman’s face. The face of the male ondelondel is usually painted in red with a mustache, while the female is painted in white and has a friendlier The male mask is painted with red, while the female is with white.

look. The kedok is made of paper pulp and cement, but now the

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59


craftsmen make improvements by

where Betawi traditional songs will

musical instruments such as tanjidor

using some chemical ingredients and

also be played.

ensemble or kendang, ningnong and

When the dolls are ready, it is

These huge dolls can be found

rebana is more expensive than the

around Jakarta’s administrative

one that uses recorded songs from

time to dress them. The dolls are

office, Betawi cultural centers, and

an MP3 player. Every ondel-ondel

usually dressed in Betawi traditional

other tourist destinations in Jakarta.

performance is accompanied by

clothes. The three ondel-ondel maker

The dolls are also usually paraded

Betawi traditional songs, such as

groups in Kramat Pulo receive

along the road around residences.

Kicir-Kicir and Jali-Jali.

clothes and other ornaments for their

Ondel-ondel is believed to protect

ondel-ondel from other residents in

humans from bad spirit or bad luck,

performed at special events.

the area.

Ondel-ondel is not only

and that’s why ondel-ondel is often

According to Dede, the people in his

seen at events that are related to

neighborhood sometimes go busking

BRING IT HOME

Betawi culture, such as a traditional

on the streets or around a housing

The craftsmen in Kramat Pulo also

Betawi wedding, a circumcision

complex. They usually go by trucks

produce ondel-ondel in a smaller

celebration or a house-warming

to the southern part of Jakarta, such

size, only 30 centimeters tall. These

party.

as Kebayoran Lama or even further

small-sized ondel-ondel dolls are

The fee for an ondel-ondel

mostly popular for souvenirs that

performance varies, depending

to perform ondel-ondel every day

are made to order. People usually

on the music that accompanies

from 12 p.m. and go back home to

request ondel-ondel for display or

the performance. An ondel-ondel

Kramat Pulo at 12 a.m. n

performances on special events

performance with live acoustic

By Edna Tarigan

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to Tangerang or Tangerang Selatan

PHOTOS BY EDNA TARIGAN

fiberglass.


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BEYONDUPDATES

SAVING GILI

ALL COURTESY PHOTOS

If you’re visiting Gili Trawangan, you can give a little something back by giving your holiday trash to Gili Eco Trust before you leave the island. Gili Eco Trust now can collect, separate and recycle PET bottles, hard plastics, cardboards, books, magazines, newspapers, tins, aluminum cans, plastic bags, plastic glasses and more. All the wastes will be compressed and sent to Lombok where they will be sold – the profits will be used to support Gili Eco Trust’s future projects. Or better yet, give more contribution and join the “Debris Free Friday” to help clean the beaches at Gili Divers (March 3), Gili Teak (March 10), Pondok Santi (March 24) and DSM (March 31) from 5 p.m. to 6 p.m., and enjoy a free beer as a reward at the end of the day. Gili Eco Trust Jalan Ikan Hiu, Gili Trawangan Lombok 0813-3960-0553 www.facebook.com/Giliecotrust

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SEE&SEEN

A FUN WEEKEND Yoga by the beach, BBQ dinner and Sunday Brunch at Shiki Japanese Restaurant – “A FunFilled Island Getaway” event by Hilton Bali was surely a weekend full of joy. www.baliresort.hilton.com

THE FOOD ALCHEMIST “The Alchemy of Chef Theo” at S.K.A.I Beach Club at Padma Resort Legian indulges guests with delectable five to seven courses, courtesy of Chef Theodorus Setyo. Mushroom mousse with tempura crumbs, double chicken consommé, slow roasted tenderloin and deconstructed black forest cake are some of the highlights. The dinner that is also titled “Alchemy & Juju 5” is available from Rp.495,000++ for a five-course and from Rp.580,000++ for a seven-course. www.padmaresortlegian.com

HELPING HANDS Anantara Uluwatu Bali Resort is striving to provide hygienic products for underprivileged families in Bali by joining ROLE Foundation’s “Soap for Hope” program. Through this program, the resort together with the foundation collects used hotel guest soaps and bring them to a center where the used soaps will be broken down, sanitized and reconstructed – organic fragrances are also incorporated. Then, the recycled soaps are distributed to a number of orphanages as well as elderlies and disadvantage people in Bali for free. The soaps are also available for purchase in ROLE Foundation’s shop. www.bali-uluwatu.anantara.com

Located at SATTU Studio in Kerobokan, Terralogical hosted an exhibition displaying photographs captured by their two new brainchildren; Lenterra and Venterra. Titled “A Humble Beginning”, this exhibition showcased fashion, food and lifestyle photos by Lenterra and a series of event photos by Venterra. www.terralogical.com 64

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ALL COURTESY PHOTOS

THROUGH THE LENS


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ILLUSTRATION MAPS BY ADE PARTHA & RIO WEDAYANA

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INFOINDEX

AIRLINES

Tel: (0361) 286-465, Fax: (0361) 286-408 E-mail: bali@honorary.mzv.cz

Renon, Denpasar Fax: (0361) 263-310 E-mail: rtc_bali@thaimail.com

■ AIRPORT OPERATOR Tel: (0361) 751-011

■ FRANCE

■ CATHAY PACIFIC AIRWAYS

Jl. Mertasari Gg. II No. 8, Sanur Tel: (0361) 285-485, Fax: (0361) 286-406 E-mail: consul@dps.centrin.net.id

■ TIMOR LESTE Jl. Prof. Yamin No. 4, Renon, Denpsar Tel: (0361) 235-093, Fax: (0361) 235-092 E-mail: cgtl@dpsbali.com

■ GERMANY

■ UNITED STATES

Tel: (0361) 768-358, Fax: (0361) 768-369

Jl. Pantai Karang 17, Batujimbar, Sanur Tel: (0361) 288-535, Fax: (0361) 288-826 Email: germanconsul@bali-ntb.com

Jl. Hayam Wuruk 188, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 233-605, Fax: (0361) 222-426 E-mail: amcobali@indosat.net.id

■ ROYAL BRUNEI

■ HUNGARY

Tel: (0361) 757-292

■ SINGAPORE AIRLINES

Marintur, Jl. By Pass Ngurah Rai 219, Sanur. Tel: (0361) 287-701, Fax: (0361) 287-456 Email: huconbali@telkom.net

Jl. I Gusti Ngurah Rai, Airport Tel: (0361) 936-8388, Fax: (0361) 936-8383

■ INDIA

■ GARUDA Jl. Jalan Sugianyar, 5 Denpasar

Jl. Raya Puputan 163, Renon - Denpasar Tel. (0361) 259-502/259-503 Fax.(0361) 259-505

Wisthi Sabha Building, 2nd Floor Ngurah Rai International Aiprort Call Centre: 0804-1-888888

■ CONTINENTAL MICRONESIA

Tel. (0361) 227-824, Fax: (0361) 226-298 24-hour access: 08071-807-807

■ MERPATI Jl. Gatot Subroto Tengah, 26 Denpasar Tel: (0361) 411-364 Airport Tel: (0361) 9351-011, ext. 5240/5242 Hotline: Tel: (0361) 722-740, 722-741

■ MANDALA AIRLINES Komp. Plaza Kertawijaya Jl. Diponogoro No. 98, Denpasar, Reservation Call center 08041234567

■ NGURAH RAI AIRPORT Tel/Fax: (0361) 759-761

HEALTH&MEDICAL

■ ITALY Lotus Enterprises Building Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai, Jimbaran Tel: (0361) 701-005, Fax: (0361) 701-005 E-mail: italconsbali @italconsbali.org

■ JAPAN Jl. Raya Puputan 170, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 227-628, Fax: (0361) 265-066 E-mail: denpasar@dp.mofa.go.jp

■ MALAYSIA Alam Kulkul Boutique Resort Jl. Pantai Kuta Tel: (0361) 752-520, Fax: (0361) 766-373 E-mail: info@consulmalaysia-bali.com

■ THAI INTERNATIONAL Grand Bali Beach Sanur, Tel: (0361) 288-141

■ QATAR AIRWAYS Discovery Kartika Plaza Hotel, South Kuta Beach Tel: (0361) 752-222; Fax: 753-788. Departure International Terminal, 2nd fl. – Room OP.II.8 East Wing Ngurah Rai International Airport Tel: (0361) 9360274; Fax : (0361) 9360275 ■ DEPARTURE Arrive at the airport two hours prior to departure. A Rp. 150,000 international departure tax is required. Domestic departure fee is Rp 75,000. No Fiscal tax-exempt to pay for Indonesian and expatriates holding KITAS for International departure. Ngurah Rai Intíl Airport, Tel: (0361) 751-011

■ MEXICO PT Puri Astina Putra Building Jl. Prof. Moh. Yamin 1A, Renon, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 223-266, Fax: (0361) 244-568 E-mail: consulmex@astinatravel.com

Call an ambulance by dialing 118, but it is a lot more practical and quicker to hire a taxi. Most hotels have on-call doctors on standby. For “Bali Belly”, Lomotil and Imodium eliminate symptoms, but not gastro-related infections. A fever along with symptoms requires doctor-prescribed antibiotics. Drink as much liquid as possible. Isotonic drinks under various brand names are widely available and are known to replenish body hydration and replace fluids. For discomfort, diarrhea and cramping, drink strong, hot tea; avoid fruits and spicy foods. Some day-biting mosquitoes carry dengue fever, but this is not a problem in tourist areas. Bali is non-malarial and prophylaxis is not required. Mosquito bites, cuts or abrasions easily become infected in the tropics. Treat them immediately. Drink only bottled or boiled water. Peel fruit before eating; avoid raw vegetables except at reputable restaurants. Ice in restaurants is safe. Protect yourself from the intense equatorial sun. Use high SPF sunblock and a hat. AIDS and sexually transmitted diseases are increasing in Indonesia. Local sex workers have multiple partners from around the world. They are not checked for sexually transmitted diseases. Act responsibly and use condoms, available over the counter at pharmacies.

■ NETHERLANDS

■ ROYAL DANISH Sunset Road No. 89 Ruko Sunset Indah I Kav. 3 Tel: (0361) 821-6979, Fax: (0361) 7666-38 E-mail: danishconsbali@gmail.com

CLINIC&HOSPITAL 24-hour emergency medical clinic services, medical evacuation, multilingual staff. Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai 505X, Kuta 80361 Tel: (0361) 710-505, Fax: (0361) 710-515

(ARMA) Ubud, Tel: (0361) 976-659, Fax: 974-229. Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud, open daily 8 am-6pm

■ ABIAN KAPAS Jl. Nusa Indah, East Denpasar Tel: (0361) 227-176

■ ANTONIO BLANCO Ubud , Tel: (0361) 975-502, 975-551 open daily 8 am-5 pm

■ ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM Pejeng, Tel: (0361) 942-352 Open 8 am - 3 pm weekdays

■ GEDONG KIRTYA HISTORICAL LIBRARY Tel: (0362) 25141, Jl. Veteran, Singaraja. Open 7am - 3pm Monday Thursday, until Fridaynoon, closed on weekends

■ GALLERY SENIWATI Jl. Ubud Raya, Gianyar. Tel: (0361) 975-485 ■ MUSEUM BALI Tel: (0361) 235-059, 222-680, Jl. Let. Kol Wisnu, Denpasar ■ MUSEUM LE MAYEUR Tel: (0361) 286-164, Jl. Hang Tuah, Sanur. Open 8 am - 2 pm, Tuesday - Sunday.

■ MUSEUM MANUSA YADNYA Mengwi, open daily, but often unattended

■ MUSEUM NEKA Tel: (0361) 975-074, 975-034, Jl. Raya Campuan, Ubud open daily 9 am - 5 pm.

Tel: (0361) 975-136, 971-159, Jl. Raya Ubud, Ubud, www.mpl-ubud.com

■ MUSEUM RUDANA Tel: (0361) 975-779, 976-479, Peliatan, Ubud

■ MUSEUM SUBAK Tel: (0361) 810-315, Jl. Raya Kediri, Desa Sanggulan, Tabanan

■ BIMC Hospital Kuta ■ POLAND

■ BRITAIN

■ SPAIN

■ BIMC Hospital Nusa Dua

Jl. Tirta Nadi 20, Sanur, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 270-601, Fax: (0361) 287-804 E-mail: bcbali@dps.centrin.net.id

Istana Kuta Galeria, Blok Vallet 2, No. 11 Jl. Patih Jelantik, Kuta Tel: (0361) 769-296, Fax: (0361) 769-296 E-mail: espana_bali@blueline.net.id

24h Accident and Emergency Centre, 24h Medical Centre, international standard hospital with fully equipped ambulances, emergency room, intensive care unit, operating theatres, radiology and pathology, ward rooms, international and multilingual team of medical experts, CosMedic Centre, Dialysis Centre, Dental Centre. Kawasan BTDC, Blok D, Nusa Dua 80363, Tel: (0361) 3000-911, Fax: (0361) 3001-150

NEW ZEALAND Jl. Tantular No. 32, Renon - Denpasar 80234 Tel: (0361) 241-118, Fax: (0361) 221-195 E-mail: bali.congen@dfat.gov.au www.bali.indonesia.embassy.gov.au

■ AGUNG RAI MUSEUM OF ART

■ INTERNATIONAL SOS CLINIC

Jl.Gunung Agung 93, Denpasar 80118 Tel: (0361) 426-171, Fax: (0361) 426-477 E-mail: konsulslowakbali@yahoo.com

■ AUSTRALIA, CANADA,

MUSEUMS

■ MUSEUM PURI LUKISAN

KCB Travel, Jl. Raya Kuta 127, Kuta Tel: (0361) 761-502, Fax: (0361) 752-777 E-mail: dutchconsulate@kcb-tours.com

24h Accident and Emergency Centre, 24h Medical Centre, international standard hospital with fully equipped ambulances, emergency room, intensive care unit, operating theatres, radiology and pathology, ward rooms, international and multilingual team of medical experts, CosMedic Centre for non-invasive and invasive cosmetic and aesthetic treatments. Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai 100X, Kuta 80361 Tel: (0361) 761-263, Fax: (0361) 767-701

CONSULATES

■ RUMAH SAKIT UMUM PUSAT SANGLAH (General Hospital): Jl. Diponegoro, Sanglah, Denpasar. Tel: (0361) 227-911/15

Jl. Raya Petitenget No. 11, Block I/C, Banjar Umasari, Kerobokan Tel: (0361) 732-165, Fax: (0361) 732-165 E-mail: consul@balipolandconsulate.com

■ SLOVAKIA

TOURIST INFO. ■ INTEGRATED TOURISM INFORMATION CENTER (ITIC) A one-stop tourist information complex of ten provinces in Indonesia comprising Bali, Lampung, Jakarta, Banten, West Java, Central Java, East Java, Jogjakarta. Jl. Raya Kuta 2, Kuta, 80361; Tel: (0361) 766-188

■ NGURAH RAI INTERNATIONAL

■ BRAZIL Jl. Raya Legian No. 186, Kuta Tel: (0361) 757-775, Fax: (0361) 751-005 E–mail: brazilconsul@bali.net

■ SWEDEN & FINLAND Segara Village Hotel, Jl. Segara Ayu Tel: (0361) 282-211, Fax: 282-211 E-mail: sweconsul@yahoo.com

■ CHILE Jl. Jl. Pengembak Gg 1 No. 3, Sanur, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 756-781, Fax: (0361) 756-783 E-mail: chilehonconsulate@bali-villa.com

■ CZECH REPUBLIC Jl. Pengembak 17 Sanur.

■ THAILAND Jl. Puputan Raya No. 81,

70

■ BADUNG GOVERNMENT TOURISM OFFICE Jl. Kuta Raya 2, Kuta Tel: (0361) 756-175/76

■ BALI GOVERNMENT TOURISM OFFICE Jl. Supratman, Niti Mandala, Renon, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 222-387

■ SILOAM HOSPITALS

■ SINGARAJA TOURIST INFORMATION OFFICE Jl. Veteran 23, Singaraja Tel: (0362) 251-41

24-hour emergency 779-911 Jl. Sunset Road No. 818, Kuta, Badung, Bali Tel: +62-361-779-900 E-mail: info.bali@siloamhospitals.com

■ UBUD TOURIST INFORMATION SERVICE Jl. Raya Ubud, Gianyar Tel: (0361) 96-285, 973-285; 8 am - 9 pm

■ SWITZERLAND & AUSTRIA Jl. Ganetri 9 D, Gatot Subroto Timur, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 264-149, Fax: (0361) 243-747 E-mail: bali@honrep.ch

AIRPORT Tel: (0361) 751-011

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