M A R C H 2 017 VOLUME 18 NO. 202
COUNT YOUR
BLESSINGS ANCIENT BALINESE TREATMENT AT HOTEL TUGU BALI
THE SPIRITUAL
DEVOTION HOW THE BALINESE WORSHIP THEIR GOD
TRULY BALI AGE-OLD TRADITIONS, AUTHENTIC FOODS, AND MORE
www.baliandbeyond.co.id
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TEAMTALK
TRULY BALI ‘Om Swastiastu...’
On March 28, the Balinese people will celebrate Silent Day to mark a new beginning of Saka New Year. The lights will be out, the streets will be empty and even the airport is closed – no one is allowed to go out or do any outside activities as the Balinese rejoice in silence. One day prior to Silent Day, the Balinese people host an Ogoh-Ogoh Parade where giant bamboo structures depicting traditional or modern characters are paraded and burnt to clean the island from negative energy. Ogoh-Ogoh Parade has also become one of the attractive traditional rituals for tourists and residents to see. Therefore, if you’re staying in Bali on Silent Day, don’t miss
COVER Photo Courtesy of Mandapa, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve
an Ogoh-Ogoh Parade. Better yet, join a Monster-Doll making workshop and make your own ogoh-ogoh at Ganesha Cultural Centre in Four Seasons Resort Bali at Jimbaran Bay. You can also learn other Balinese traditional arts and crafts at this cultural center – turn to ‘Lifestyle & Leisure’ for more details. To honor this year’s Silent Day, we have compiled a number of stories that will make you see the real Bali. Our contributor Agung Parameswara shares the sincerity of the Balinese in worshipping their God and paying tribute to their ancestors in ‘Craft & Culture’. A photo series by Phil Green also captures the devotion of the Balinese in a number of ceremonies – flip through ‘Foto Folio’ to see the images. Our ‘Dine & Delights’ reveals authentic Balinese cuisine at Raja’s Balinese Restaurant at Nusa Dua Beach Hotel and Spa. Meanwhile, Edna Tarigan and Taufan Wijaya take us out of the island to see the making of Ondel-Ondel in ‘Capital Corner’ and the unique culture of Toraja in ‘Beyond Bali’ respectively. All in all, we hope our stories will be good company during your Silent Day in Bali. One more tip; if the night sky is clear during the Silent Day, don’t forget to look up… and stargaze.
‘Om Shanti Shanti Shanti Om…’ The Team
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BALI & BEYOND General Manager GOESTAMAR ARDIBRATA goestamar@baliandbeyond.co.id Managing Editor RISTY NURRAISA risty@baliandbeyond.co.id Editorial Advisors A.A. GEDE RAI, JOHN M. DANIELS Graphic Advisor WENIAR PRAMESTI Senior Graphic Designer I PUTU PARTAJAYA putu@baliandbeyond.co.id Web & Graphic Designer MELIYANA SANTOSO meli@baliandbeyond.co.id Advertising & MarComm. Manager D. ARIEF SENOAJI arief@baliandbeyond.co.id Senior Advertising Sales Executive MEE NOVITA mee@baliandbeyond.co.id F&A Supervisor A.A. KETUT SUKERTI agung@baliandbeyond.co.id Accounting Staff KADEK YULI MARISNA yuli@baliandbeyond.co.id GA & Personnel Adm I GEDE ADARA adara@baliandbeyond.co.id Distribution NYOMAN TRI HARIAN SAPUTRA nyoman@baliandbeyond.co.id
Contributors AGUNG PARAMESWARA, ANAIS AMANS, EDNA TARIGAN, KATIE TRUMAN, TAUFAN WIJAYA
Jakarta Marketing Services/Subscription Phone : 021 - 2765 1717 / 1718 Ext. 7344 Fax : 021 - 2765 1716 Publisher PT. BUMI DIAN KUSUMA Commissioner SOETIKNO SOEDARJO Director MAULANA INDRAGUNA SUTOWO Division Head MRA Printed Media INDRIATI WIRJANTO
OFFICE Gedung Bali White House - Block IV Jl. Dewi Sri No. 23, Kuta 80361- Bali Tel: 0361 9348339, 085 100 868601, 085 100 868602 Fax: +62 361 750075 E-mail:mag@baliandbeyond.co.id http://www.baliandbeyond.co.id
Bali & Beyond Magazine is published monthly by PT. Bumi Dian Kusuma under the direction of MRA Media, Jakarta. Although every care is taken, neither the publishers nor any of their designees assume responsibility for the opinions and information expressed by editorial contributors. All material in this publication is copyrighted and cannot be reproduced without written permission of the publisher or author. All trademark and rights to Bali & Beyond are reserved by PT Bumi Dian Kusuma. Editorial materials may be submitted for consideration to the editorial office. Bali & Beyond is not responsible for the return of unsolicited material. © 2006 Bali & Beyond ISSN 0216-4590
A member of
Endorsed by
BALI GOVERNMENT TOURISM OFFICE Jl. S. Parman, Niti Mandala Renon, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 222 387, 226 313 Fax: (0361) 226 313
CONTRIBUTORS
www. skal.org skalbali@dps.centrin.net.id
AGUNG PARAMESWARA is a Bali-based photographer who freelances for Getty Images News. His work has been published by Reuters,The New York Times and The Wall Street Journal among others. (www. agungparameswara.com)
ANAÏS AMANS
EDNA TARIGAN
KATIE TRUMAN
TAUFAN WIJAYA
is a French journalist and fashion designer. She is a travel lover, always ready for adventure. She never leaves her notebook to share her experiences and memories with us. Follow her on Instagram : @ana_amans
is a Jakarta-based travel writer. She began her professional carrier as a journalist, living in Bali for a year then moving back to Jakarta to chase another dream. www.edededan.com
waved goodbye to her native England fifteen years ago and has been living in Southeast Asia as a freelance writer ever since. She contributes to numerous international publications on her two big loves, Vietnam and Indonesia.
is working on an MA in Journalism in the Philippines and personal photojournalism projects on water & sanitation and women with cancer. Follow him on Twitter @ taufanwijaya_ or www.taufanwijaya.com
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THE SUN... THE SAND... THE SURF... THE CULTURE OF PARADISE AND OVER 18,000 SURROUNDING ISLANDS
contents 03.17 M A R C H 2017 Volume 18 No. 202
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SINCERELY BALI
COUNT YOUR BLESSINGS
INVITE&INDULGE
The devotion of Balinese people in worshipping their Gods
Ancient Balinese treatment at Waroeng Djamoe Spa
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STEP BY STEP
PHOTOS & FUN FACTS
LIFESTYLE&LEISURE A visit to Ganesha Cultural Centre
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SIGHTS&SOUNDS
Snapshots and quotes picked up throughout January and February
DINE&DELIGHTS
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DINE LIKE A KING
Indulge in Balinese cuisine at Raja’s restaurant
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PROFILE&PORTRAIT TRAVEL THROUGH TIME
Komang Ary talks about Indonesian heritage artefacts
14 PRIMEPROMOTION Hot deals and promotions of the month that shouldn’t be missed
16 NEW&NEWS This month’s select news updates from the island’s tourism industry and what’s new around the island
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6 2 BEYONDUPDATES News updates from the tourism industry and what’s new beyond Bali
64 SEE&SEEN
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REST&RELAXATION KINGDOM OF LOVE Stay at Ayodya Resort Bali
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FOTOFOLIO
THE SPIRITUAL HEART OF BALI Phil Green captures Balinese spiritual ceremonies 10
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Snapshots of events and happenings within the preceding month
66 BALIMAPS Map of Bali showing specific tourism areas and places of interest, as well as a distance scale between the island’s main destinations
70 INFOINDEX Useful directory of companies and island-based businesses
FIRST COLUMN PHOTO BY AGUNG PARAMESWARA, SECOND COLUMN PHOTO BY PHIL GREEN, THIRD COLUMN PHOTO COURTESY OF W BALI - SEMINYAK
CRAFT&CULTURE
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THE SUN... THE SAND... THE SURF... THE CULTURE OF PARADISE AND OVER 18,000 SURROUNDING ISLANDS
contents 03.17
M A R C H 2017 Volume 18 No. 202
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ACTION&ATTRACTION JUST RIDE!
BEYONDBALI
Cycling through lush greenery in Bali Bike Park
Reveal the unique tradition of Toraja in North Sulawesi
CAPITALCORNER
DISCOVER TORAJA
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THE HOME OF ONDEL-ONDEL
Witnessing the making of Ondel-Ondel 12
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TOP AND BOTTOM LEFT PHOTOS BY TAUFAN WIJAYA BOTTOM RIGHT PHOTO BY ANAIS AMANS AND VICTOR JEOFFRE
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PRIMEPROMOTION
FANTASTIC SIX W Bali – Seminyak presents six ways for guests to “Own the Moment” to celebrate the resort’s sixth anniversary throughout March. The celebration starts on March 5 where Purple Disco Machine will “Own the Moment” on a sunset session at Woobar. “Beats in Paradise” will let music enthusiasts create a masterpiece or take a masterclass with W Bali’s Music Curator Damian Saint at W Sound Suite – a music session is available from Rp. 2,000,000/two hours. If you want to hide from the crowd, “Vibrant Villas” program offers 20 percent off for their Marvelous One-Bedroom Villa with rates starting from Rp. 5,100,000++/room/night. Don’t forget the “Away Spa Launch Afterglow” that will pamper you with options from five minutes to one hour of either a Hot & Cold Face Massage, Express Mani-Pedi or a Head Rush Massage. The resort also offers “The Brunch of All Brunches” that indulges guests with selections of Pan-Asian cuisine at Starfish Bloo’s Sunday Brunch – the brunch is available from Rp. 535,000++/person, including a glass of bubbles and free-flow non-alcoholic beverages. And if you’re looking for some adventure, take the “Insider Adventure” to discover Bali’s culture, lush jungles, and hidden beaches – the resort’s DJI drone photographer will also capture your adventure and you can bring the photos home. W Bali – Seminyak Jalan Petitenget, Kerobokan, Seminyak, (0361) 3000-106 www.wretreatbali.com
A HEALING JOURNEY
ALL COURTESY PHOTOS
This year, Mandapa, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve will be welcoming three world-class wellness practitioners to be their healing masters in residence. The first one being Andrew Rosenstock, an international healing artist and yoga teacher. From March 6 to 25, Andrew will be holding a Thai and Yogabased massage as well as conducting healing sessions to help you find balance, release tensions and heal your mind, body and soul. Usui reiki master and practitioner Nicky Kassapian and Californian massage therapist Julian Eymann will also conduct classes and therapies from June 25 to July 8 and from September 4 to 15 respectively. Interested? Book a Healing Master InResidence treatment and get 20 percent off to stay at the resort’s Suites and Villas. Mandapa, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve Jalan Kedewatan, Banjar Kedewatan, Ubud (0361) 479-2777 www.mandapareserve.com
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THE FINE PAIR On March 17, Kayuputi Restaurant at The St. Regis Bali Resort is hosting its first wine pairing dinner of 2017. Delectable six-course menu will be presented, all are courtesy of the resort’s talented culinary team led by Chef Gunatika and supervised by Executive Chef Agung Gede. Each dish will be beautifully paired with Mazzei fine wine, such as Mazzei Fonterutoli Chianti Classico DOCG, Mazzei Siepi Rosso Toscana IGT, and more. The Mazzei Wine Dinner is available at Rp. 2,100,000 nett/person, and will start at 7.30 p.m. with a pre-dinner cocktail at 7 p.m. Kayuputi Restaurant The St. Regis Bali Resort ITDC Lot S6, Nusa Dua (0361) 8478-111 www.stregisbali.com
FLAWLESS SKIN Cocoon Medical Spa proudly launches the newest treatment named ND YAG Laser that will make your skin more aglow than ever. Laser treatment is gaining more popularity across the world as it improves your skin in an efficient and quick way, and ND YAG Laser can specifically help reduce pigmentation and freckles as well as remove tattoos. ND YAG Laser can also improve skin tone, reduce facial wrinkles and fine lines, stimulate new collagen, help firm and tighten the skin, and more. The treatment is safe as it doesn’t involve any surgery. Cocoon Medical Spa Sunset Road, Legian 0811-388-2240 www.cocoonmedicalspa.com
THE FOOD HAVEN Situated opposite Ubud’s central parking and a stone’s throw away from Monkey Forest, Habitat is bringing a new vibe to Ubud’s culinary scene. The restaurant presents delicious Pan-Asian cuisine with inspirations from South East Asia and embraces healthy foods and drinks. Habitat also aims to help promote sustainable business by working closely with local farmers, suppliers and community – the fruits and vegetables are sourced from Bedugul, while the coffee is handled by Seniman Coffee & Studio. Designed with modern tropical style with the use of terracotta, wood and bamboo elements, Habitat is the place to be for breakfast and lunch in Ubud. Habitat Jalan Monkey Forest No. 88x, Ubud, (0361) 971-633 www.habitatubud.com
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NEW&NEWS
HAPPILY EVER AFTER Jewel Box, the newly-revamped wedding venue at Sofitel Bali Nusa Dua Beach Resort, will make your dream wedding come true. Designed with custom-made crystal glass art installations, Jewel Box boasts the remarkable view of the ocean and the silhouette of Nusa Penida on the horizon. A ribbon-shaped chandelier hanging on the ceiling and the floor-to-ceiling windows with floral-fractal motif also add beautiful touches to the venue. Jewel Box can accommodate up to 80 guests, and is surrounded by manicured garden that can function as a reception venue with 200 guests. Sofitel Bali Nusa Dua Beach Resort ITDC Lot N-5, Nusa Dua, (0361) 849-2888, www.sofitel-bali-nusadua.com
KOREAN STYLE
ARTSY SEMINYAK “Nyaman” actually means “cozy” or “comfortable”, and Nyaman Gallery has successfully created a cozy space for art enthusiasts to enjoy the island’s contemporary art. Located in the heart of Seminyak, Nyaman Gallery is not only displaying paintings, photographs and sculpture, but also presenting Balinese jewelry and more. The gallery works closely with Indonesian and international artists to present the best of their creations. Nyaman Gallery also welcomes guests who seek for consultations on interior design and scenography. Nyaman Gallery Jalan Basangkasa No. 88, Seminyak (0361) 736-226 www.nyamangallery.com
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ALL COURTESY PHOTOS
Located at Samasta Lifestyle Village, Chir Chir Fusion Chicken Factory is bringing Korean-style dishes to the island. Choices of delicious chicken are offered – be it deep fried or roasted chicken, the dish you’re having will even be more flavorful with a special Korean sauce. At Chir Chir, you can also experience Chiamek, a new trend in Korea to pair your chicken dish with a cold beer. Chir Chir has Chir Cream Beer with whipped cream to accompany your dining experience. The restaurant is open for lunch and dinner. Chir Chir Fusion Chicken Factory Samasta Lifestyle Village Jalan Wanagiri No. 1, Jimbaran (0361) 472-5777 Instagram: @chirchirindonesia
A FAIRY-TALE WEDDING Make your fairy-tale dream wedding come true at The Glass House. The newest wedding garden resort by Tirtha Bridal has a unique architecture with warm lighting, and is surrounded by a beautiful tropical garden. The Glass House has a threebedroom villa and a number of wedding venues, one of them being The Moonlight Garden, a spill-out deck decorated with plants that can accommodate up to 150 people – it is perfect for dinner under the moonlight. The lobby area and lobby lounge can also serve an intimate dinner for 40 people, while the pool terrace can host an outdoor dinner for 70 people. The Plumeria Room is also another beautiful wedding venue at the resort – this room is decorated with glass walls and boasts 180-degree view of the tropical garden. It is as if you’re holding a wedding reception in the middle of a forest. The Glass House Tirtha Bridal, Jalan Uluwatu, Banjar Dinas Karang Boma, Pecatu, (0361) 847-1151 www.tirthabridal.com
FOREST TREAT RIMBA Jimbaran Bali by AYANA proudly announces the opening of its newest addition, the Forest Bar. Boasting the view of the resort’s lush greenery, Forest Bar indulges guests with delicious Brazilian- and Caribbean-style finger skewers – expect to taste some perfectly grilled Sandwich Cubano, marinated steak with chimichurri sauce, fresh vegetables, and more. Don’t forget to pair your dishes with the bar’s unique cocktails that are rich with exotic flavors inspired from Puerto Rico, Jamaica, Peru, Cuba and Mexico – try their Tiki cocktails, Mojitos, Margaritas. Forest Bar also has pressed juices for a healthy option. RIMBA Jimbaran BALI by AYANA Jalan Karang Mas Sejahtera, Jimbaran, (0361) 846-8468 www.rimbajimbaran.com
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A NEW TWIST MoVida Bali may only be one year old, yet the restaurant keeps on making innovations to satisfy the island’s food enthusiasts. Located on the ground floor of Katamama, MoVida Bali presents 20 new dishes alongside their all-time favorite menu. Some of the new highlights are Txangurro, a delicious Basque-style baked mud crab, and Cordero, a Pyreneesstyle lamb cooked with white wine and paprika sauce. The restaurant also offers the new Sardinas en Escabeche (saffronpickled sardines) and Vieira that consists of moon scallops, Iberico and potato foam. So, if you’re looking for some new authentic Spanish tapas on the island, you know where to go. MoVida Bali Katamama Jalan Petitenget No. 51 B, Seminyak (0361) 302-9940 www.katamama.com
CRAFT&CULTURE
SINCERELY BALI
HOW THE BALINESE STAY TRUE TO THEIR ROOTS TO WORSHIP THEIR GODS AND PAY TRIBUTE TO THEIR ANCESTORS…
A
present offerings – which are made of harvests and crops – to the spirits. Mount Agung (the highest mountain in Bali) is believed to be the home of the Gods and ancestors. Hence, the mountain is known as the Mother of the Mount, and it is sacred for the Balinese.
s the center of tourism
journalist myself, I was intrigued to
Three years ago, my family got
in Indonesia, Bali has
capture their bhakti – the sincerity
our turn to take care of our ancestral
experienced so many
of the Balinese in worshipping their
family temple in our hometown.
changes. According
God and paying tributes to their
Every Balinese family has to take
to the Tourism and
ancestors through a visual story that I
care of their family temple for three
am sharing with you here…
months. Once they’re done, another
Agriculture department of Bali, the island now has over 2,000 hotels
family will take over the duty for
with approximately 60,000 rooms.
MAN OF DUTY
another three months. Among the
Nearly 400 hectares of rice fields
The Balinese spiritual and religion
responsibilities are making daily
have been transformed into houses
are rooted back to Indian Hinduism,
offerings, performing ceremonies
and other establishments. At the
Buddhism and ancient animism belief.
on certain days such as during the
same time, the high economic
The theological basis of Hinduism in
Full Moon and Dead Moon, and
demand increases urbanization.
Bali comes from Indian philosophy
cleaning the temple.
However, despite the rapid
while animism belief inspires most of
development, the Balinese people
the rituals. The Balinese Hindu people
the temple, the Balinese celebrated
never forget their roots. Being
strongly believe that natural incidents
Galungan and Kuningan, two of
a Balinese Hindu and a photo
are caused by spirits. Therefore, they
the most important religious days
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During our three-month tending
as the Balinese celebrate the victory
prepared everything. Mind you, my
of dharma (virtue) over adharma
family and I live in Denpasar, while
(vice). So, our family prepared all of
the temple is in Gianyar, which
Village where the community holds
the offerings for our family temple,
means we had to travel around 35
a ritual named Ngusaba Puseh
including making and erecting the
km back and forth every day to
every year to honor their ancestors
Penjor (bamboo poles decorated
take care of the temple. And during
and to welcome the guardian spirits
with coconut leaves) which is a
the Galungan and Kuningan day,
of the village. On my visit, some
symbol of our respect towards nature
we had to be there before sunrise.
people were in trance and led the
and victory.
This experience made me see and
community to the temple, while
admire the sincerity of my parents
others came screaming from all
at 3 a.m. My mother said, “We
in practicing their beliefs. They have
around the temple. They ran to the
must deliver and place the offerings
sacrificed their time and materials to
center of the temple and danced
as early as we can. We should be
perform their bhakti to their ancestors.
in trance. The men were in a state
On the Galungan day, we woke
finished before 7 a.m., before people
villages in Karangasem Regency. The first one was Selumbung
of trance and started to hit their
since we have to serve the pilgrims
BHAKTI IN KARANGASEM
and help them place their offerings.”
My parents’ devotion to the Balinese
Meanwhile, Bugbug, Jasri,
That day, we also prepared the tirtha
ritual made me wonder whether other
Bebandem and Ngis Village hold
(holy water) and bija (rice grains
Balinese people in other parts of
the greatest ritual in Karangasem
soaked in flower-fragrant water to
Bali would do the same. Would they
named Ngusaba Gumang once
be put on the foreheads as a symbol
perform their bhakti to their Gods and
every two years. The ritual takes
that ‘God has blessed you’) for those
ancestors, just like my parents did?
place at the top of the Gumang Hill,
who come to pray.
With this question in mind, I started
and is attended by around 10,000
my quest to capture the Balinese
people from the four surrounding
performing their bhakti in several
villages. They come by foot and
come flocking to the temple to pray,
It was 4 a.m. when we arrived at our ancestral family temple and
BALI&BEYOND MARCH 2017
abdomens or arms with a dagger without feeling any pain.
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the knight, the queen’s brother and more. During the dance, the audience will try to steal the banana leaves, while the dancers will whip them to prevent them from stealing. Banana leaves stolen during the performance are believed to be lucky charms and good for fertility. From traveling 35 km every day to take care of the ancestral family temple like my family did to going by foot to the top of the hill for a ceremony like the villagers of
walk to the top of the hill. The ritual is held to celebrate the reunion of their ancestors – they believe that the Gods from the four villages will gather together with the God of Gumang Hill. On top of the hill, the villagers will show their gratitude to the Gods by offering roasted pigs. A different kind of ritual is revealed in Trunyan Village, which is located in the crater area of Mount Batur. This village is home to Bali Mula, the original inhabitants of Bali who believe their ancestors were ancestors of the majority Balinese
Dasar and Ratu Sakti Pancering
Bugbug, Jasri, Bebandem and Ngis,
who migrated from Java and brought
Jagat, who are believed to be the
or holding performances like the
Hinduism from Majapahit Kingdom
ancestors of the Trunyan people. The
Selumbung and Trunyan Village, the
to the island. On October 2014,
Barong Brutuk is a rare ritual where
Balinese show a true devotion and
the Trunyan villagers held the Saba
the performers wear costumes made
sincerity when it comes to worshiping
Gede ceremony for their Gods. The
of dried banana leaves and wooden
their Gods and honoring their
celebration lasted for one month
masks. This dance is only performed
ancestors. And as a young Balinese
and ended with the Barong Brutuk
by young Trunyan men who have
person, I believe these rituals must be
been selected, purified, and gone
preserved as our precious heritage.
through a 42-day quarantine.
These rituals bring the Balinese
performance. Brutuk is derived from “baru tuwuk” which means “to meet.” This
There are 21 masks of Barong
performance symbolizes the meeting
Brutuk – each one represents one
to their age-old traditions. n
between Ratu Ayu Pingit Dalem
role, from the king to the queen,
By Agung Parameswara
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BALI&BEYOND MARCH 2017
people together while paying respect
PHOTOS BY AGUNG PARAMESWARA
descended from heaven, unlike the
BALI&BEYOND MARCH 2017
21
LIFESTYLE&LEISURE
painting class and some Jimbaran people to teach rindik (a Balinese traditional musical instrument), Balinese dance and canang (offering) making.”
FOLLOW THE WOODS I approached the four sculpture artists that were sitting on a bale in front of the cultural center for the wood-carving workshop. With friendly smiles, the artists welcomed me as I sat on the bale and talked to them. The three craftsmen and one craftswoman first began learning wood-carving when they were children. That day, each one of them had a sculpture they were
Step by Step LEARN BALINESE ARTS AND CRAFTS AT GANESHA CULTURAL CENTRE…
changed in July 2016 with the hope
working on – the men were carving
of preserving Balinese traditions.
a piece of wood, while the lady was
“We want to explore the real side
polishing a statue using sandpaper.
of Bali and remind people of what
“There are six steps to make a
made Bali famously known in the
wooden sculpture,” said one of
old days,” said Luhgde Suryatini
the men with a statue of Rama and
(Surya), the curator of the resort’s
Shinta, the Balinese legendary love
cultural program. “We sell their
icon, in his hands. “I’m currently on
artworks here, but that’s not our
the second phase where I need to
main purpose. We want to show the
smoothen the statue using one of
daily lives of Balinese people, what
these tools.”
they used to do before the tourism
L
industry grew on the island.” ocated within the area of
To reach this purpose, Ganesha
Four Seasons Resort Bali at
Cultural Centre scouted talented
Jimbaran Bay, the Ganesha
Balinese local artists and invited
Cultural Centre takes guests
them to hold a workshop once a
closer to Balinese arts and
week at the center. “We have artists
crafts. Workshops conducted by
from Bangli to teach Sokasi-weaving,
Balinese artists – who still produce
women from Karangasem for the
artworks in their hometown – are
songket-making, and craftsmen
available every day based on a
from Ketut Puja Gallery in Gianyar
schedule.
for the wood-carving workshop,”
Ganesha Cultural Centre used to be Ganesha Gallery. The function
Surya continued. “We also invite artists from Gianyar for the ceramic
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BALI&BEYOND MARCH 2017
He showed me a number of tools and explained the process of woodcarving. “It all depends on the type and the size of the wood,” he said. “The design follows the wood.” The first process is to draw a design on a big chunk of wood. Using an axe, they then carve the wood following the design. And then, the process continues with carving the details, polishing the wood, and making ornaments, before the sculpture is finally ready to display and sell. He gave me one of the sharp tools to smoothen a small part of his Rama-Shinta wooden sculpture. This process was like peeling a fruit, but the sculpture was quite big. I can’t imagine how much time they invest to make one statue. No wonder a sculpture can take days, weeks or even months to finish. “The most difficult process is making the ornaments for details,” the artist continued while showing me the headpieces that Rama and Shinta were wearing that were full of small contortions. “Every detail counts.”
FOLLOW THE THREADS After the wood-carving workshop was done, I could hear the sound of “tok… tok…” like a knock on wood from one corner of the cultural centre. The sound came from wooden tools used to create a songket. Songket is one of Indonesian traditional handmade fabrics. Every region in the archipelago has its own songket style, including in Bali where they are made of pure silk. “This is Ibu
One of the craftsmen from Ketut Puja Gallery was working his sculpture at Ganesha Cultural Centre.
Nyoman Murni from Karangasem, our songket artist,” Surya introduced
BALI&BEYOND MARCH 2017
23
threads attached to the tool – there were so many of them, I couldn’t help but wondering how a songket artist knows which thread to go which way every time they weave. It is quite complicated. But then again, they have been weaving since they were children, and are still producing songket for a living – Murni said she could spend two to five hours a day at her home to weave a songket. Slowly but surely I began to understand the pattern although I believe it takes years to actually master this art. These workshops made me see me to the lady who was busy
firsthand how complicated it is to
weaving a piece of fabric.
make a songket and a wooden
“I started learning to weave a
sculpture. And I truly admired the
songket when I was 12 years old,”
passion, patience and persistence
said Murni. She was sitting with two
that these traditional artists have.
pieces of wood tied on her body,
I had a newfound respect and
one on her stomach and the other on
appreciation for these artists at the
her back. Those wood pieces were
end of the day. n
tied to a bigger wooden tool where
By Risty Nurraisa
threads stretched neatly like strings to a harp. That day, Murni was
Ganesha Cultural Centre
making a black songket with golden
Four Seasons Resort Bali at Jimbaran
that I heard earlier was from another wooden tool that she used to press
Ibu Nyoman Murni, the songket weaver from Karangasem.
(0361) 701-010 www.fourseasons.com/jimbaranbay
the threads. Murni then told me to take her place. I was curious but nervous,
To celebrate this year’s Silent Day that falls on March 28, Ganesha Cultural
afraid that I would make a mistake
Centre is hosting a Monster Doll-Making workshop where guests can craft
that could ruin her creation. If
their own Ogoh-Ogoh (Monster Dolls) from March 20 to 24. Ogoh-Ogoh
somehow a mistake is done, the
is a Balinese giant effigy which is believed to represent bad evil. On the
artist has to redo everything all over
eve of Silent Day, an Ogoh-Ogoh parade is held across the island, and the
again. I couldn’t do that to her. With
giant dolls are burnt at the end of the night to banish the negative spirits.
two pieces of wood were tied to
The Monster Doll-Making class is available at Rp. 200,000/person for
my body, I continued where she left
non-staying guests and is a complimentary for the staying guests. Guests
off – Murni has done a part of the
can also make a mini Ogoh-Ogoh and take it home as a souvenir (with
fabric beautifully. While listening
additional charge) or bring their creation to the Ogoh-Ogoh Parade at the
to Murni’s instructions, I studied the
resort on March 27.
24
BALI&BEYOND MARCH 2017
FIRST PAGE PHOTOS COURTESY OF GANESHA CULTURAL CENTRE, ALL OTHERS BY RISTY NURRAISA
Bay, Jimbaran
motifs. The sound of “tok… tok…”
BALI&BEYOND MARCH 2017
25
DINE&DELIGHTS
DINE LIKE A KING
INDULGE IN REFINED AUTHENTIC BALINESE CUISINE IN A LUXURIOUS ROYAL SETTING…
T
he tables are covered with
hotel’s swimming pool, Raja’s takes
traditional dishes. Here in Raja’s, we
white flower-patterned
Balinese cuisine to a whole new
present these traditional dishes with
tablecloths. On each table,
level by recreating age-old Balinese
a five-star presentation.”
bronze plates and cutlery
recipes using premium local produce
are placed neatly, and a
and serving them in a sophisticated
Dua Beach Hotel & Spa around a
bronze goblet becomes the center
presentation. “Raja” means “king”
year to do research on the Balinese
piece. Some Balinese wooden
and at Raja’s, diners will be treated
traditional dishes and cooking
artworks adorn the walls, while on
like one…
techniques for authenticity. “We
It took the culinary team of Nusa
gathered some chefs and cooks
the other side of the room, a sphere and a kober (usually used for a
REAL BALI
from several areas in Bali. We held
Balinese ceremony) and several
The dishes at Raja’s are inspired
a competition where they had to
silver bokor (to place offerings
by several areas in Bali, one of
present the signature food of their
during a ritual) are on display.
them being the Puri Klungkung. The
hometown,” the resort’s Senior Sous
resort’s Sous Chef Tournant Ida
Chef Ketut Mudana explained how
Raja’s Balinese Restaurant at Nusa
Bagus Oka stated, “Puri Klungkung
they did the research before opening
Dua Beach Hotel & Spa which is
is the pioneer of Balinese food.
Raja’s. “Then we researched
very much inspired by Balinese
The people there often make
different kind of cooking techniques.
royal families. Located near the
new innovations that become our
We tried to implement modern
That is the luxurious setting of
Selections of Balinese Tapas.
26
BALI&BEYOND MARCH 2017
Raja’s has a luxurious interior design
techniques to elevate the traditional
hospitality service. When my friends
dishes.”
and I sat on our table, a waitress
The result, Raja’s was born in
put a bowl of rempeyek (Indonesian
2001 with the hope of introducing
crackers) in the bronze goblet in the
and preserving Balinese dishes
middle of our table.
to the world. But it’s not the only
As we munched on the crackers,
unique value that Raja’s has. Raja’s
the waitress patiently described
is different from any other Balinese
the menu to us. The selections of
restaurants as it is certified as a
Balinese dishes at Raja’s all seem
halal dining venue – meaning, all
delicious, it was quite hard for us
the dishes are made with ingredients
to decide. With the help of the
that contain no pork.
waitress, we finally decided to start our dinner with some appetizers
Another highlight from the tapas
TASTE OF BALI
from the Tapas sections. We were
menu was the delicious Crabmeat
On the night I had dinner at
still enjoying our talk and the
and Green Papaya Soup.
Raja’s with some friends of mine, I
crackers when our appetizers were
knew I was about to embark on a
served; Prawn Sate, Sate Lilit, and
were served. The Udang Pantung
remarkable Balinese culinary journey
Shredded Chicken with chili and
Mebase Kalas was the perfect option
as I entered the restaurant. Raja’s
lime sambal. But my favorite was the
for me – it was a lobster dish that
has a luxurious interior design, yet
12-Hour Braised Beef Cheek – the
had my jaw dropping, it looked so
the restaurant feels unintimidating
meat was so tender and flavorful
appetizing. The lush Balinese lobster
with warm lighting and top-notch
with aromatic Balinese spices.
meat was cooked to perfection and
BALI&BEYOND MARCH 2017
27
Not long after, the main courses
The crackers are put in the bronze bowl.
was served in delicious coconut
only make the meat tender, but also
turmeric curry sauce. Another
makes the spices blend beautifully
jaje ketan, kacang hijau and more.
highlight from the main course is
together. And unlike the other dishes
The cendol is another delicious
the Sate Gede which is a gigantic
that are served on a plate, the Bebek
option inspired by street food. Raja’s
barbecued chicken, lamb and beef
Betutu is especially presented on a
also has selections of ice cream
skewer served with long bean salad
trolley, and the waiter or waitress
made of local ingredients, like the
and sweet chili coriander dressing.
will carve the meat and serve it to
red bean ice cream. n
the diners.
By Risty Nurraisa
Of course, as the signature menu
coconut ice cream, dadar gulung,
of Raja’s, the Bebek Betutu is not to
To have a sweet ending, don’t
be missed. Served for four persons,
forget to save some room for dessert.
Raja’s Balinese Restaurant
the slow-cooked whole duck is
The Balinese Sweets is the star of
Nusa Dua Beach Hotel & Spa
marinated with 16 different Balinese
the dessert list as it elevates Balinese
BTDC Lot-N4, Nusa Dua
spices and wrapped in palm leaves.
street-food sweets to a high-quality
(0361) 771-210
The slow cooking technique does not
dish, consisting of fried bananas,
www.nusaduahotel.com
28
BALI&BEYOND MARCH 2017
FIRST PAGEAND SECOND PAGE BOTTOM PHOTOS COURTESY OF NUSA DUA BEACH HOTEL & SPA, ALL OTHERS BY AGUNG PARAMESWARA (INSTAGRAM: @SANGAVISUAL)
The Balinese sweet delight.
BALI&BEYOND MARCH 2017
29
PROFILE&PORTRAIT
descendant of dalang (puppet masters), keris makers (traditional blacksmiths) and Topeng dancers. BB: What made you decide to open Komang Ary Indonesian Arts Gallery? What where the challenges when opening the gallery? KA: This gallery is more than just a business for me, it is also my medium to express my hobby and passion in antiques and arts. It is a place to show my devotion to quality artworks. The gallery was opened in 2005. There were no significant challenges during the pre-opening because I was merely driven by my love towards these historical objects. However, the first challenge
KOMANG ARY, OWNER OF KOMANG ARY INDONESIAN ARTS GALLERY, TALKS ABOUT HIS PASSION IN COLLECTING ANTIQUES TO HELP PRESERVE THE COUNTRY’S HISTORICAL OBJECTS…
N
antiques, especially Balinese antiques, to the younger generation and local tourists because they often think that these beautiful centuries-old heritage artefacts from our ancestors are “out of date”, which is understandable due to modernization. International tourists are more enthusiastic probably because they know the importance of understanding the culture of a nation and it makes them appreciate these artworks more.
estled in Lodtunduh
introduce Indonesian historical arts
Village in Ubud,
to the world and preserve them for
BB: What are your visions and
Komang Ary
future generations. To Bali & Beyond
missions in opening the Komang Ary
Indonesian Arts
(BB), he shares the importance of
Indonesian Arts Gallery?
Gallery is home
protecting national treasures…
KA: My mission is to make the
to age-old art objects from statues,
younger generation fall in love with
textiles, artefacts, paintings and
BB: What made you interested in
Indonesian antiques. I hope they
more. All are sourced across the
antiques?
are also encouraged to preserve
archipelago. For owner Komang
KA: I’ve been interested in antiques
and appreciate the high values
Ary (KA), this gallery does not only
since 2004 when I was only 22
and history of the objects. As an
serve as a place to display his
years old. I think my love for
art dealer, I believe I have the
collection but also as a way to help
antiques is in my DNA. I am the
responsibility to save and preserve
30
BALI&BEYOND MARCH 2017
PHOTOS COURTESY OF KOMANG ARY INDONESIAN ARTS GALLERY
Travel through Time
I found was to introduce these
antiques. When I go hunting for
is everything that is related to death
antiques in the villages, I often find
and black magic in the old days,
people don’t really understand the
like the door of a tomb from Toraja
historical values in these items and
which is really rare as it has a
therefore they are not interested in
human (an ancestor) figure. I also
preserving them. Old artefacts are
have an ancient Balinese statue that
often forgotten and easily replaced
I got from a balian (Balinese healer
with new ones. The old ones are
or shaman) who used to practice
either damaged due to the weather
black magic.
or destroyed by people – some are
This may sound odd, but for
burnt while others are thrown away
me, death is not the end but
into the ocean.
rather a beginning to infinity and
An artefact from Toraja.
enlightenment. There are a lot
BB: What are your wishes for
of ancient cultures in the world,
Indonesian arts and history through
including in Indonesia, that considers
this gallery?
death rituals as more important than
KA: Not only do I wish to preserve
other ceremonies, like weddings.
historical objects, I also want to
Some Indonesian tribes have a
in South Sulawesi, Batak in North
encourage people to have a good
special death ritual, like the Toraja
Sumatra, and Bali.
sense of art and appreciate it. I believe our appreciations of historical arts is one of the foundations that
BB: Do you have a message for
The balian statue.
Indonesian younger generation to encourage them in preserving local
makes us a great nation.
culture? BB: Your collection is sourced from
KA: I’m not anti-modernization or
across the archipelago, not just from
against western culture – I still listen
Bali. How do you collect them?
to their music too although not as
KA: To collect historical objects from
often as I enjoy local art. I just find it
outside of Bali, I used to go hunting
strange for Indonesians – especially
in certain areas. However, it’s quite
Balinese because I’m a Balinese – to
challenging because I often encounter
know western culture better than
technical problems and it’s not really
their own. Our culture is a legacy
safe because there are bandits in
from our ancestors that becomes
several areas. So, I decided to build
our identity, and it breaks my heart
a system in Bali to help me collect
that it is often considered “old” or
arts and artefacts from all over
“out of date”. I believe that we have
Indonesia. The result is beyond my
to know and understand our own
expectation as this system often helps
“home” first before we know other
me find Indonesian historical objects
people’s home. n
in other countries and return them
By Risty Nurraisa
home to Indonesia. Komang Ary Indonesian Arts Gallery BB: Do you have a personal favorite
Jalan AA Gede Rai, Lodtunduh
collection?
Village, Ubud, (0361) 981-619
KA: My personal favorite collection
www.komangary.com
BALI&BEYOND MARCH 2017
31
INVITE&INDULGE
Count Your Blessings HEAD TO THE DIVINE AND SPIRITUALLYINCLINED HOTEL TUGU BALI TO INCORPORATE ANCIENT BALINESE TRADITIONS AND RITUALS TO YOUR SPA AND WELLNESS REGIME…
D
edicated to preserving
Peranakan and Balinese therapies
mind, meditating, awakening
and celebrating
and health treatments; traditions that
the consciousness, and finding
Javanese and Balinese
combine spirituality with physical
unexpected sources of inner power.
spirituality and their
healing to achieve the ultimate
Like the rest of the property, these
old artistic cultural
harmony of mind, body and soul
chambers are littered with old
heritage and traditions, Hotel Tugu
and enhance total deep relaxation
objects and artworks, recounting
Bali is set to be a unique, living-
and state of peacefulness.
stories from the archipelago’s rich
breathing museum hotel, home to its
Waroeng Djamoe Spa is
Indonesian proprietor’s vast personal
comprised of six intoxicatingly
collection of artworks, antiquities
charming garden kamar (chambers),
CHAMBER OF SECRET
and vintage furnishings from across
individually spaced out amongst
Waroeng Djamoe Spa has two
the archipelago. Amongst the
the pretty beachside gardens and
stand-out rituals that are intrinsic to
rapid development in Canggu, this
linked by stone walkways dissecting
ancient Balinese Hindu traditions.
internationally-acclaimed boutique
manicured lawns. Each offers a
One is “Purnama (Full Moon) and
hotel is one of the originals and
different theme and ambiance
Tilem (New Moon) Massage Energy
evocative of bygone times that rests
specific to certain treatments and
of the Bali Moon” that celebrates
alongside Canggu’s surf beach. Hotel
a natural setting for relaxing the
the highly significant and sacred Full
Tugu Bali is standing on a sacred blessed ground and neighbouring a revered temple. Nestled within the hotel is a spa sanctuary that is equally wildly atmospheric and mystical, like none other on the island. Waroeng Djamoe Spa – the name is derived from ancient Javanese for traditional apothecary – connects with ancient mystical East rituals, focusing on centuries-old authentic Javanese,
The Kamar Mantra.
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BALI&BEYOND MARCH 2017
cultural heritage.
Have a flower bath in the Kamar Molek Seger Waras.
and New Moon days and the good
expressions of enlightened
sarong, I found my therapist slowly
fortunes and energies emitting from
awareness, achieved through
pan-frying locally grown, organic
these magical rays. It incorporates
a verbal formula repeated in a
herbs, roots and spices – galangal,
a rhythmic hand massage and
meditation or incantation. “Good”
ginger, lemon grass and cloves to
moon-lit sunken bath strewn with
Gods and spirits are believed to
name a few – over a gas flame on
frangipani petals, ended with a
reside in this room, maybe within the
the floor. This natural concoction,
Hindu beachside cleansing ritual and
several Hindu stone statues standing
blessed beforehand by a local
blessing ceremony at Tugu’s sacred
here. The walls are adorned with
Mangku (priest), is then poured
Barong Temple which makes it more
ancient artworks, a sunken stone
into cotton pouches, kept warmed
of a spiritual experience rather than
bath is edged with candles, and
and administered as heated herbal
a spa treatment. The other one is
Tibetan red box lanterns hang from
compresses, and finally repeatedly
“Pijitan” Mantra or Eastern Spirituality
the ceiling. Traditional gamelan
massaged in a circular motion over
Massage (available for 90 minutes at
music plays softly in the background
my entire body. This is alternated with
Rp. 874,500++) which is a part of
and balcony doors are left open,
a firm hand massage using warmed
the spa’s “Pijitan” Eastern Massages
allowing natural ocean breeze to
cold-pressed virgin coconut oil,
series. This ritual is a must-try and for
flow in. The stage is set.
freshly made in-house using cooking
that reason, I opted for this treatment on my last visit to the spa.
As for all treatments, my therapist
and extraction methods handed
collects me from the hotel lobby
down from village grandmothers. The
This profoundly meditative and
– which is another sensational,
wafting aromas of sweet incense,
blissful therapy must be administered
historically-charged kamar – to
aromatic fresh herbs and coconut oil
in the Kamar Mantra; a spiritually
lead me to Kamar Mantra that is
is additionally sensuous.
charged, exquisite chamber inspired
secluded away on the first floor of an
by Hindu mantras – multifaceted
outer wing. Once changed into my
BALI&BEYOND MARCH 2017
33
This deep healing tissue massage is simultaneously combined with the
manicured gardens. The therapist guided me through this ritual – my head was first sprinkled with holy water before I drank the pure rice wine from cupped hands (which was then smeared over my face and hair). Rice grains then deposited on my throat chakra and Third Eye, while a Frangipani flower was tucked behind one of my ears. I was then instructed to chant three times, “Om Shanti Shanti Shanti Om” which means “peace in your heart, on earth and always” with my hands clasped and raised to my forehead. Be sure, as I do, to book this therapist chanting ancient eastern
making my hairs stand on end, but
divine treatment for late afternoon
mantras – soft mesmerizing and
along with the blissfully soothing
so you can enjoy your post-treatment
mystic incantations repeated during
massage, they help balance my
blessing while watching the sun
the massage, believed to infiltrate
mind and soul and open up my
sink behind coconut palms and
into the spirit and soul and improve
chakras. Apparently, my therapist
experience the enchanting Kamar
well-being through the unconscious
has been given special powers from
Mantra aglow with candles and red
mind. In Balinese culture, mantras
the local Mangku to administer
lanterns. I feel totally relaxed and
are believed to be the conduit
these Hindu mantras, formulated
calmed, and physically and spiritually
connecting to the Gods and direct
specifically for this Tugu ritual.
recharged – at the very least, my skin
energy powers and a traditional
is super-soft and well-nourished from
way of healing practiced in the
POWERFUL MANTRAS
villages. These prayers are chanted
Afterwards I was given a Balinese
in slow, elongated and articulated
Hindu blessing on a narrow
handed a souvenir gift of the sacred
verses repeated three times, almost
wooden balcony, overlooking lovely
Mantras spoken that afternoon,
the lusciously rich coconut oil. Before the day ended, I was
printed on faux old scroll papers. On those papers written uplifting mantras for me to chant at home, like, “Ong Purnamabhuantu Tatatuastu” that with you and of everything that you experience in life.” Seems I really am truly blessed! n By Katie Truman Waroeng Djamoe Spa Hotel Tugu Bali Jalan Pantai Batu Bolong, Canggu (0361) 473-1701 www.tuguhotels.com
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BALI&BEYOND MARCH 2017
PHOTOS COURTESY OF HOTEL TUGU BALI
means “bliss and contentment, be
BALI&BEYOND MARCH 2017
35
We took a closer look at the photo s sent to our Instag account, and could ram n’t help but fall in love with them all So we decided to . repost one of our favorites here. Ke tagging @baliand ep beyondmagazine on Ins photos might be tagram and your in our next issues!
@soul_ofa_gypsy beautifully captured sunset in Tanah Lot Temple.
It was one be autiful day at Alila Seminya to indulge in k. Don’t forget some healthy dishes at The you’re around Restaurant whe . n 36
BALI&BEYOND MARCH 2017
AYANA AYA YA NA RES RESORT O AN OR ORT AND D SPA S PA BAL BALII COURTESY CO TESY PHOTOS, COUR ALL OTHERS BY RISTY NURRAISA
SIGHTS&SOUNDS
Our cork board of photos, quotes and fun facts that we picked up while exploring in January and February...
Located on Sunset Road in Seminya delicious Ja k, SumoBoo panese dess Bali offers erts – their star of the m ice cream bo enu. SumoB wls are the oo savory dish Bali also se es, like nood rves selectio ns of les and chic ken popcor n.
All the more reaso n to visit AYANA Resort and Spa BA the resort’s Dama LI as r Restaurant now serves selections and cold drinks as of hot well as desserts usi ng Tsujiri, a 155-y old Japanese gre earen tea brand. De licious O-matcha, cream, shaved ice soft ice , and more are wa itin g a.m. to 1 p.m. Tsu for you from 11 jiri’s O-matcha po wder and various of tea bags are als blend o available for pu rchase.
A traditiona l dance perfo rmed at Puri cremation ce Ubud, befo remony of on re a e of the roya began. l family mem bers BALI&BEYOND MARCH 2017
37
REST&RELAXATION
KINGDOM OF LOVE
WELCOME TO THE RAMAYANA-INSPIRED RESORT IN NUSA DUA…
O
nce upon a time in a land far away, a princess named Shinta was captured by
Rahwana, an evil spirit of Alengka. Her lover, Prince Rama, soon made it his mission to rescue her with the help of his loyal supporters, among a few of them were his brother Laksmana and the monkey advisor of Anggada, General Hanoman. The mission took 12 years to accomplish, and it wasn’t until Hanoman burnt down the capital city of Alengka that Rama finally put an end to Rahwana’s life and retrieved Shinta back to his arms. Together, Prince Rama and Princess Shinta returned to Ayodya Palace, where they lived happily ever after with their twin sons. That is the summary of the epic love story of “Ramayana” or also known as “Rama-Shinta”. The legend has an important place in the hearts of the Balinese that it is often depicted in a traditional dance performance, including the Kecak Fire Dance. This particular
38
BALI&BEYOND MARCH 2017
BALI&BEYOND MARCH 2017
39
“Ayodya” is the name of palace Princess “Ayodya” is Princess Shinta’s Shinta’sResort palace and Ayodya Bali and Ayodya Bali lives up to Resort its name. truly lives up to its name.
story is also where the inspiration
while a statue of Princess Shinta
greeted me, while splashing some
of Ayodya Resort Bali in Nusa Dua
stands proudly in the lobby, as if the
holy water to my face. “Please sit
derived from. “Ayodya” is the name
princess is welcoming guests to her
down.” She escorted me to a sofa on
of Princess Shinta’s palace, and
home.
the left side of the lobby and served
Ayodya Resort Bali lives up to its
Providing over 500 rooms,
me a refreshing welcome drink while
name with a number of wooden and
Ayodya Resort Bali offers three
her friend helped me check in. Once
stone craftsmanship decorating the
different categories; Ayodya Resort
everything was ready, a bellboy
resort and friendly hotel staff treating
(Deluxe and Grande Room), Suites
escorted me to my room.
guests like royalty…
and Ayodya Palace. I stayed at the
The Ayodya Garden View room
Ayodya Garden View room in the
at the Ayodya Palace has a classical
STAY AT THE PALACE
Ayodya Palace, and I truly enjoyed
look with teak-wood furniture.
It has been 26 years since Ayodya
the privacy it offered. As a guest
Touches of Indonesian design
Resort Bali first opened its doors
to the Ayodya Palace, I had the
highlight the room, like batik pillows
– the hotel is one of the first three
privilege to check in at the Ayodya
on the bed and a batik fabric on the
hotels to stand on the Nusa Dua
Palace’s private lobby, which I
wall. The bathroom is luxurious, with
luxury hotel stretch. The property
personally found like a royal living
marbled floor and bathtub – one of
is designed with rich Balinese
room. A beautiful lady welcomed me
my favorite features in the room is the
heritage which becomes quite rare
with a warm smile when I arrived.
window by the bathtub that allowed
in this modern era where a lot of
She was standing in front of a
me to watch my favorite TV show
new hotels are constructed with
marbled pond at the center of the
while having a bath. The room also
modern design. A beautiful pond
lobby. Beside her was a goblet of
has a spacious wardrobe, a king-size
with Balinese stone crafts adorns
holy water.
bed, and a balcony overlooking the
the hotel’s manicured front yard,
“Welcome to Ayodya Palace,” she
resort’s beautiful pond.
PHOTOS COURTESY OF AYODYA RESORT BALI
Watch a cultural performance while indulging in a dinner at the Balinese Theater.
40
BALI&BEYOND MARCH 2017
UNWIND IN NUSA DUA Guests who stay at Ayodya Palace have a lot of privileges, one of them being daily afternoon tea that indulges guests with light bites, coffee and tea from 3 p.m. to 4.30 p.m. at Ayodya Lounge. The lounge has an indoor and outdoor area – during a sunny day, the outdoor area is a better option because Ayodya Palace’s private swimming pool is located right next to the lounge. Once the afternoon tea is done, guests can continue to unwind at the lounge with some refreshing drinks during the cocktail session. Ayodya Lounge also serves breakfast for Ayodya Palace’s guests. Aside from those privileges, guests at Ayodya Palace can of course still enjoy the resort’s other facilities and dining venues. Located on the beachfront area of the hotel, Lagoona Beach Bar offers a different kind of Nusa Dua sunset session where guests can unwind on one of the colorful beanbags under the eyecatching umbrellas. For full-fulfilling
Sneak a peek the Grande Room.
meals, head to Lagoona restaurant that nestled adjacent to the beach bar. The restaurant offers steak and seafood BBQ – their Smoker’s steak
curious about the “Rama-Shinta”
the seniors have been there since the
is one of the highlights of the menu
love story, don’t forget to join this
day the hotel opened. This means,
that is worth to try.
Balinese dinner on a Saturday
they understand the hotel’s facilities
Other restaurants include Genji
to watch a live Kecak Dance
and hospitality standard by heart.
that serves Japanese cuisine
performance. Ayodya Resort Bali
The resort has become their second
specializing in a Teppanyaki set,
has complete facilities for leisure,
home and they treat their guests
Octopus that offers Italian food,
like an infinity swimming pool,
with love, just like they treat a family
Waterfall for international breakfast
children’s playground, a squash
member.n
and Indonesian dinner, and more.
court, spa and gym, and more.
By Risty Nurraisa
Ayodya Resort Bali also has an
Another highlight from my stay
open-air Balinese Theater that
experience is how well the hotel’s
Ayodya Resort Bali
serves Balinese-themed dinner only
staff treat all guests with warmth.
Jalan Pantai Mengiat, Nusa Dua
on Mondays, Wednesdays and
Most of the staff have been working
(0361) 771-102
Saturdays. For those who are still
at the property for years, many of
www.ayodyaresortbali.com
BALI&BEYOND MARCH 2017
41
FOTOFOLIO
The Spiritual Heart of Bali
More than three million Balinese people practice Hinduism. Their faith is at the very center of their lives, family and community. The Balinese pray to their Gods every day and are involved in various ceremonies and celebrations virtually every week. To the majority of Balinese, being devoted to their spiritual life, family, and community is their highest priority unlike most western cultures where material wealth often becomes a measure of life success. While many tourists and expats visit the more famous Hindu temples and witness traditional dances and ceremonies, very few appreciate the level of devotion and commitment of the Balinese to their spiritual lives. The Balinese spiritual ceremonies are often referred to as the “hidden or secret life of Bali” by western authors. However, the reality is in fact the exact opposite. The Balinese are remarkably open and inclusive with regard to their religion and various ceremonies. While many Balinese temples are architecturally interesting, they really come to life during ceremonies when they are abuzz with activities such as prayers, the giving and blessing of offerings, sacrifices, music and dances. The strong sense of spirituality, colors, sounds, and never-ending activity is a wonderful spectacle to experience. However, finding out what ceremonies are on, when and where across Bali is not so straightforward. The best resource for this is definitely not the internet but simply the annual Balinese calendar, which is readily available across the island. The calendar contains many details such as special Hindu religious days, Balinese days and week periods (which are not Gregorian!), full and new moon nights, and major Balinese holy days like Galungan, Kuningan and Nyepi. The most valuable is a separate listing of all odalan (temple ceremonies) by date and temple across the island – for the larger temples, these are a major spectacle. This is where to find out in advance what’s on, when, and where. In conclusion, to experience the real Bali, try to see some “non-tourist” Balinese temple ceremonies. I have found without exception that the Balinese are very welcoming and open to visitors. The only strong advice is to dress appropriately, behave respectfully with a low profile. Sadly some tourists believe if they have a camera in their hand they can freely wander around during ceremonies as they please. Thankfully nowadays the pecalang (Balinese security) are generally in attendance to quickly sort out such indiscretions! By Phil Green Photos by Phil Green (www.baliphotoblog.smugmug.com)
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Kehen Dancers
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Masceti Offerings 44
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Going Home
The Balinese Boys
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Foursome Friends
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Holy Spring for All BALI&BEYOND MARCH 2017
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ACTION&ATTRACTION
JUST
seekers. And that is what Austrian Alexander Springenschmidt, creator of the Bali Bike Park and successful entrepreneur, had fully understood. Two years ago, he opened the
Ride! CYCLING THROUGH BALI’S LUSH GREENERY IN BALI BIKE PARK…
first and only bike park in Bali. Originally established for the expert riders, Bali Bike Park also gives a sensational experience for beginners and those who are simply curious to discover downhill, a discipline that is closer to an extreme sport than to an easy ride!
HEART OF BEDUGUL Armed with my heart and basic cycling skills, I decided to give up my beach time for a day full of adventure. Bali Bike Park, here I come! My day began early in the morning at an area next to Chillhouse, a meeting place for surfers that Alexander created when Canggu was still undiscovered. With the help of the staff and Victor, my boyfriend who loves to ride a bike in France, I chose my bike and my helmet. Elbow pads and kneepads are optional but highly
P
aradise beaches, tropical heat and dream waves – those are probably the first pictures you have when you think about Bali.
However, Bali is much more than just white sandy beaches and bikinis. If you go to the inland regions, you will discover a whole new world where active volcanoes, rice fields and lush forest become incredible playgrounds for the adrenaline
Welcome to Bali Bike Park!
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Ride a bike through Bali’s lush greenery and pump up your adrenaline.
recommended, even for the most audacious. Considering I had no idea what to expect, I decided to wear all of them for safety. I mean, we never know, right? Then, we moved further to reach the basecamp located in the heart of Bedugul. During our journey, we went beyond the touristic areas and discovered the Balinese daily life – we encountered farmers and school children with smiles you can only find in Bali. Lye, my guide for the journey, is proud of “his”
DOWN THE HILL
chance to escape: I must go down
bike park which is a windfall for
After a quick briefing, it was time
on my bike. Bali Bike Park offers
local employment with close to 20
for me to go up in one of the pick-
seven different tracks for riders to
employees – Bali Bike Park has
up trucks that brought me to the
tumble down the 200 meters drop.
workers to handle the maintenance
starting point of the tracks, around
The two blue tracks are the easiest
of the tracks, shuttle services and
1400 meters above the sea level.
level, then there are four red and
of course, marketing and sales.
The way up was an experience
one black tracks. There are also
Mahesa Pratama, the co-managing
on its own, and already I was
jumps for the experienced riders
partner of Bali Bike Park, defined
enjoying big thrills – and I could
and the hotheads. Judging by my
the park as “a way to incite people
see the importance of being fully
boyfriend’s look, we decided to
to work together, federated by this
equipped!
start with the “Berm line” and the
project.”
Before I knew it, I had no
BALI&BEYOND MARCH 2017
“Hipsta”, the two smooth and family-
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While Lye and Victor were racing
BE FREE!
That morning, due to the rainy
in the red tracks, I decided to take
By the time I reached the finish line,
season, the soil was slippery, and
a break to catch my breath and
I definitely had a lot of fun – the
I literally spent my first run on my
captured some nice photos. I realized
sensation of speed and adrenaline
bottom, enjoying memorable cold
that everyone went at their own pace
rush were truly exhilarating. I was
sweat and an astonishing quantity of
and the staff was available to make
tired but happy. It was 2 p.m.
mud on my trousers.
the day a the real custom-made
already, and it was time for the bike
experience. After a well-deserved
park to close for the day. After a
experience, I tried again. This time,
one hour break and against all
full day of new experience, I was
I was more confident and getting
expectation, I was ready to try again
ready to head down to one of Bali’s
used to my bike. I was beginning to
– and this time, I was fully energized
beautiful beaches again.
feel the ground. Slowly but surely, I
as I was surrounded by kids in the
After riding with Bali Bike Park, I
could feel the excitement and started
pick-up area who were even more
could understand more clearly what
to understand why Victor left me
excited than I was! Bali Bike Park is
Victor, Lye and Mahesa have been
every summer for a ride week in the
open to all – there is no age limit and
telling me; that riding a bike gives
French Alps to enjoy some thrilling
no fun limit. However, the guides are
you a sensational feeling of being
bike riding.
more advisers than professors.
free, even more so when you’re
Determined to have the best
surrounded by nature. You feel the pleasure of the present moment and enjoy some adrenaline surge and speed. Yes, I agree, but please, let my legs and arms rest for a few days before I get on another bike again. I feel carried away by the sensations and… aches. This is maybe the price to pay to participate in this new amazing experience! n By Anaïs Amans and Victor Jeoffre www.balibikepark.com
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PHOTOS BY ANAÏS AMANS AND VICTOR JEOFFRE
friendly tracks… as it says on paper.
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53
BEYONDBALI
Di scover
Toraja
OUR CONTRIBUTOR TAUFAN WIJAYA TOOK A TRIP TO TORAJA AND REVEALED ITS UNIQUE RITUAL TO RESPECT THE DEAD …
R
ainfall made the soil damp
valued by their shape, size, color,
and the scent of wet earth
and horns. The special buffaloes
lingered in the air. Green
are saleko and bonga that have
paddy fields pleased
a combination of white and black
my eyes. A number of
color. The price of these dual-color
Tongkonan (Toraja traditional
buffaloes is about ten times higher
houses) adorned the landscape with
than regular black buffalo of the
their exquisite ornaments and buffalo
same size.
horns. This is the beautiful scenery
There are hundreds of buffaloes
that welcomed me in Toraja, an
in the market. The government
area in South Sulawesi that is also
provides a special holding lot for
known as the “Land of The Heavenly
the herd. Men wearing sarongs with
Kings.”
a cigarette between their fingers
Toraja is famous for the way local
were roaming around in the market,
people see death differently than
some are selling their stocks while
any other region in the Indonesian
others are checking out to buy some.
archipelago. The Torajan burial
Some colorful painted kiosks stand
sites, mummification and rituals for the dead are the most unique and attractive traditions for visitors to see. However, a friend of mine told me that Toraja is more than all that. It didn’t take me long to agree with him once I arrived there.
LIVESTOCK FOR LIFE My journey in Toraja started at Bolu Traditional Market at Rantepao in North Toraja. The market is known as a livestock market. It is the center
A visitor and a buffalo installation art at Rantepao Art Festival.
of buffalo exchange for the entire Torajan people. Here, buffaloes are
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The Lemo burial site where Tau Tau (the wooden statues) are displayed to represent the deceaced burried in the graves.
along the buffalo market selling
and Rambu Solo’, a funeral ritual
STORY OF THE DEAD
daily needs and meals. On the other
where family and relatives take the
In Toraja, a buffalo can also be used
side of the market is the pig market
body or the remains of the deceased
as a token to pay a debt or other
which is filled with the sound of their
to their last resting place like a
transaction. Buffaloes also symbolize
squeals as they are transferred from
grave, a cave or a silo. The Torajans
hierarchy, and that’s why many of
one vehicle to another. It is as if they
believe that the dead people are
the Tongkonan have buffalo’s horns.
know that destiny awaits them.
in a state of illness, and they will
The more horns they have, the higher
become eternal beings when they
position they sit in the society.
It is heart breaking to see these
Tongkonan is a boat-shaped
animal transactions, but livestock
are taken to their last resting place.
plays an important part in the
Rambu Solo’ ritual costs a lot of
traditional Toraja house made of
Torajan life. Buffaloes have a crucial
money, thus it can take months to
wood and bamboo. Tongkonan is
role in the tradition – they often
years for a family to hold this ritual
derived from “tongkon” which means
become an offering in Rambu Tuka
after a family member passes away.
“to sit together.” It is actually more
BALI&BEYOND MARCH 2017
55
Torajan people practice matriarchy.
that makes the air so fresh and
of a main building, several smaller
Each Tongkonan is beautifully
clear. The buildings have a grand
ones for family members and a
painted in red, black and orange,
structure, and the thatched-roofs
rice storage building which is the
and decorated with carvings. This
have vines sprawling on them.
smallest one. The main building is
iconic structure is also often applied
There is also a small museum where
where the body of the deceased
to government and public building
travelers can learn the history of
is kept before the Rambu Solo’
design, like those in Rantepao.
Toraja, including how they used to
burial ceremony is held. It can be
I visited a Tongkonan in Kete
live and dress in the past.
easily recognized by the stack of
Kesu, one of the best well-known
horns at the center of the house.
Tongkonan with a burial sites,
see that Kete Kesu is very well
Members living in one complex are
situated on a hill. Kete Kesu complex
maintained. The area is clean with
of the same ancestor line from their
is nestled away from the main road,
cobbled pavement for easy access.
grandmother’s side (Nene’) – the
and is surrounded by rice fields
The burial site at the back of Kete
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From the entrance, we can already
PHOTOS BY TAUFAN WIJAYA
like a private complex consisting
The unique Tongkonan, the Toraja traditional house.
near these remains, perhaps to show respect as they believe the deceased
The statue of Jesus at Buntu Burake.
continue on living. The area is quite humid, so some of the coffins are covered in mold. Most burial sites in Toraja are well preserved – and several have souvenir shops for visitors. Some of the most interesting sites are Londa where coffins are planted in caves and Lemo where coffins are kept within the mountain walls. There are many more burial sites in Toraja, but the few I mentioned here are easy to access and remarkable to see for travelers who have limited time.
LIVELY SITES
statue of Jesus at Buntu Burake,
Having seen enough of the burial
which somewhat looks like Christ
sites, next on my agenda is to find
the Redeemer in Brazil. He stands
some tenun (traditional fabric) in
in glory with His hands wide open.
Galugu in the north of Rantepao.
I was pretty lucky to get the chance
Here, the weavers are middle-aged
to see this statue because by early
mothers who work in their workshop
January 2017 this site is closed to
which is also their showroom. At
the public until further notice due to
the end of my trip, I visited the
infrastructure development – which is much needed, as I found it quite challenging to drive up the hill through the rocky road. For me personally, a trip to Toraja is a cultural journey that
Kesu Tongkonan belongs to family
imprints many memories in my
members from one lineage. There are
mind. Its traditions, customs and
also several permanent silos there,
culture are so unique to see from
which are homes for the deceased.
up close, especially the way the
Some have a photo of the deceased
Torajan people prepare for death
hung in front of the silo, while
and respect the dead. To modern
others have a memorial monument
people it may seem odd, if not
that represents the deceased. Next
unconventional, but perhaps it is just
to these houses or silos, stands a
a different perspective or approach
mountain where the remains of
about life and death from a different
the deceased lie. Skulls are neatly
culture, which actually makes
organized and stacked. People often
Indonesian culture so rich. n
leave some drinks and cigarettes
By Taufan Wijaya
BALI&BEYOND MARCH 2017
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CAPITALCORNER
THE HOME OF ONDEL-ONDEL OUR CONTRIBUTOR EDNA TARIGAN WITNESSED THE MAKING OF ONDELONDEL, THE ICON OF BETAWI CULTURE IN JAKARTA…
A
midst the unstoppable
a man who will control it from the
wear the doll to busk on the streets
development in
inside.
or around the housing complex in
Jakarta, there is a
On my recent visit to Pasar
Jakarta.
small area near Pasar
Gaplok, I saw how the local people
Gaplok (Gaplok
make ondel-ondel, not only to
to be called barongan. The name
Market) at Kramat Pulo in Central
preserve their Betawi culture but
changed when Betawi legendary
Jakarta that is home to ondel-ondel,
also to earn a living. The residents
artist Benyamin Sueb sang the
In the old days, ondel-ondel used
the icon of Jakarta. Ondel-ondel is a
of Kramat Pulo very much depend
“Ondel-ondel” song (a Betawi
giant effigy from Betawi (the original
on ondel-ondel. For years, they have
traditional song about the giant dolls
tribe of Jakarta) that has become
been making barongan – a different
parade) at a Betawi cultural event.
the symbol of Betawi culture in the
name for ondel-ondel – for artistic
Some said ondel-ondel means “to
capital city. The huge doll can fit
performances. They also often
swing” which is derived from their
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movements – an ondel-ondel looks like it is swinging from side to side every time it moves.
BEHIND THE SCENE It is easy to find ondel-ondel craftsmen in Pasar Goplok. Almost everyone at this small area can take you to an ondel-ondel maker who will be ready to make the kind of ondel-ondel you want. There are three groups of ondel-ondel makers in Kramat Pulo; they all live and work along the small river on Jalan Kembang Pacar which is located less than 200 meters from the Kramat District Office. The craftsmen begin to work in the morning until before 12 p.m. During my visit, I met Dede Sulaiman, one of the craftsmen in the area. He explained everything I needed to know about making an ondel-ondel – for a start, he told me that it takes four people to make one ondel-ondel. They use bamboos to construct the body of the effigies and a hula hoop to bind the bamboos together. Ondel-ondel dolls are huge – the tallest one can reach up to two meters. The most artistic, yet difficult, process is making the kedok which is the mask or the face of the ondelondel. Ondel-ondel is usually a pair of a male and a female doll, so the kedok is designed to resemble either a man’s face or a woman’s face. The face of the male ondelondel is usually painted in red with a mustache, while the female is painted in white and has a friendlier The male mask is painted with red, while the female is with white.
look. The kedok is made of paper pulp and cement, but now the
BALI&BEYOND MARCH 2017
59
craftsmen make improvements by
where Betawi traditional songs will
musical instruments such as tanjidor
using some chemical ingredients and
also be played.
ensemble or kendang, ningnong and
When the dolls are ready, it is
These huge dolls can be found
rebana is more expensive than the
around Jakarta’s administrative
one that uses recorded songs from
time to dress them. The dolls are
office, Betawi cultural centers, and
an MP3 player. Every ondel-ondel
usually dressed in Betawi traditional
other tourist destinations in Jakarta.
performance is accompanied by
clothes. The three ondel-ondel maker
The dolls are also usually paraded
Betawi traditional songs, such as
groups in Kramat Pulo receive
along the road around residences.
Kicir-Kicir and Jali-Jali.
clothes and other ornaments for their
Ondel-ondel is believed to protect
ondel-ondel from other residents in
humans from bad spirit or bad luck,
performed at special events.
the area.
Ondel-ondel is not only
and that’s why ondel-ondel is often
According to Dede, the people in his
seen at events that are related to
neighborhood sometimes go busking
BRING IT HOME
Betawi culture, such as a traditional
on the streets or around a housing
The craftsmen in Kramat Pulo also
Betawi wedding, a circumcision
complex. They usually go by trucks
produce ondel-ondel in a smaller
celebration or a house-warming
to the southern part of Jakarta, such
size, only 30 centimeters tall. These
party.
as Kebayoran Lama or even further
small-sized ondel-ondel dolls are
The fee for an ondel-ondel
mostly popular for souvenirs that
performance varies, depending
to perform ondel-ondel every day
are made to order. People usually
on the music that accompanies
from 12 p.m. and go back home to
request ondel-ondel for display or
the performance. An ondel-ondel
Kramat Pulo at 12 a.m. n
performances on special events
performance with live acoustic
By Edna Tarigan
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to Tangerang or Tangerang Selatan
PHOTOS BY EDNA TARIGAN
fiberglass.
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61
BEYONDUPDATES
SAVING GILI
ALL COURTESY PHOTOS
If you’re visiting Gili Trawangan, you can give a little something back by giving your holiday trash to Gili Eco Trust before you leave the island. Gili Eco Trust now can collect, separate and recycle PET bottles, hard plastics, cardboards, books, magazines, newspapers, tins, aluminum cans, plastic bags, plastic glasses and more. All the wastes will be compressed and sent to Lombok where they will be sold – the profits will be used to support Gili Eco Trust’s future projects. Or better yet, give more contribution and join the “Debris Free Friday” to help clean the beaches at Gili Divers (March 3), Gili Teak (March 10), Pondok Santi (March 24) and DSM (March 31) from 5 p.m. to 6 p.m., and enjoy a free beer as a reward at the end of the day. Gili Eco Trust Jalan Ikan Hiu, Gili Trawangan Lombok 0813-3960-0553 www.facebook.com/Giliecotrust
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SEE&SEEN
A FUN WEEKEND Yoga by the beach, BBQ dinner and Sunday Brunch at Shiki Japanese Restaurant – “A FunFilled Island Getaway” event by Hilton Bali was surely a weekend full of joy. www.baliresort.hilton.com
THE FOOD ALCHEMIST “The Alchemy of Chef Theo” at S.K.A.I Beach Club at Padma Resort Legian indulges guests with delectable five to seven courses, courtesy of Chef Theodorus Setyo. Mushroom mousse with tempura crumbs, double chicken consommé, slow roasted tenderloin and deconstructed black forest cake are some of the highlights. The dinner that is also titled “Alchemy & Juju 5” is available from Rp.495,000++ for a five-course and from Rp.580,000++ for a seven-course. www.padmaresortlegian.com
HELPING HANDS Anantara Uluwatu Bali Resort is striving to provide hygienic products for underprivileged families in Bali by joining ROLE Foundation’s “Soap for Hope” program. Through this program, the resort together with the foundation collects used hotel guest soaps and bring them to a center where the used soaps will be broken down, sanitized and reconstructed – organic fragrances are also incorporated. Then, the recycled soaps are distributed to a number of orphanages as well as elderlies and disadvantage people in Bali for free. The soaps are also available for purchase in ROLE Foundation’s shop. www.bali-uluwatu.anantara.com
Located at SATTU Studio in Kerobokan, Terralogical hosted an exhibition displaying photographs captured by their two new brainchildren; Lenterra and Venterra. Titled “A Humble Beginning”, this exhibition showcased fashion, food and lifestyle photos by Lenterra and a series of event photos by Venterra. www.terralogical.com 64
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ALL COURTESY PHOTOS
THROUGH THE LENS
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ILLUSTRATION MAPS BY ADE PARTHA & RIO WEDAYANA
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INFOINDEX
AIRLINES
Tel: (0361) 286-465, Fax: (0361) 286-408 E-mail: bali@honorary.mzv.cz
Renon, Denpasar Fax: (0361) 263-310 E-mail: rtc_bali@thaimail.com
■ AIRPORT OPERATOR Tel: (0361) 751-011
■ FRANCE
■ CATHAY PACIFIC AIRWAYS
Jl. Mertasari Gg. II No. 8, Sanur Tel: (0361) 285-485, Fax: (0361) 286-406 E-mail: consul@dps.centrin.net.id
■ TIMOR LESTE Jl. Prof. Yamin No. 4, Renon, Denpsar Tel: (0361) 235-093, Fax: (0361) 235-092 E-mail: cgtl@dpsbali.com
■ GERMANY
■ UNITED STATES
Tel: (0361) 768-358, Fax: (0361) 768-369
Jl. Pantai Karang 17, Batujimbar, Sanur Tel: (0361) 288-535, Fax: (0361) 288-826 Email: germanconsul@bali-ntb.com
Jl. Hayam Wuruk 188, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 233-605, Fax: (0361) 222-426 E-mail: amcobali@indosat.net.id
■ ROYAL BRUNEI
■ HUNGARY
Tel: (0361) 757-292
■ SINGAPORE AIRLINES
Marintur, Jl. By Pass Ngurah Rai 219, Sanur. Tel: (0361) 287-701, Fax: (0361) 287-456 Email: huconbali@telkom.net
Jl. I Gusti Ngurah Rai, Airport Tel: (0361) 936-8388, Fax: (0361) 936-8383
■ INDIA
■ GARUDA Jl. Jalan Sugianyar, 5 Denpasar
Jl. Raya Puputan 163, Renon - Denpasar Tel. (0361) 259-502/259-503 Fax.(0361) 259-505
Wisthi Sabha Building, 2nd Floor Ngurah Rai International Aiprort Call Centre: 0804-1-888888
■ CONTINENTAL MICRONESIA
Tel. (0361) 227-824, Fax: (0361) 226-298 24-hour access: 08071-807-807
■ MERPATI Jl. Gatot Subroto Tengah, 26 Denpasar Tel: (0361) 411-364 Airport Tel: (0361) 9351-011, ext. 5240/5242 Hotline: Tel: (0361) 722-740, 722-741
■ MANDALA AIRLINES Komp. Plaza Kertawijaya Jl. Diponogoro No. 98, Denpasar, Reservation Call center 08041234567
■ NGURAH RAI AIRPORT Tel/Fax: (0361) 759-761
HEALTH&MEDICAL
■ ITALY Lotus Enterprises Building Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai, Jimbaran Tel: (0361) 701-005, Fax: (0361) 701-005 E-mail: italconsbali @italconsbali.org
■ JAPAN Jl. Raya Puputan 170, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 227-628, Fax: (0361) 265-066 E-mail: denpasar@dp.mofa.go.jp
■ MALAYSIA Alam Kulkul Boutique Resort Jl. Pantai Kuta Tel: (0361) 752-520, Fax: (0361) 766-373 E-mail: info@consulmalaysia-bali.com
■ THAI INTERNATIONAL Grand Bali Beach Sanur, Tel: (0361) 288-141
■ QATAR AIRWAYS Discovery Kartika Plaza Hotel, South Kuta Beach Tel: (0361) 752-222; Fax: 753-788. Departure International Terminal, 2nd fl. – Room OP.II.8 East Wing Ngurah Rai International Airport Tel: (0361) 9360274; Fax : (0361) 9360275 ■ DEPARTURE Arrive at the airport two hours prior to departure. A Rp. 150,000 international departure tax is required. Domestic departure fee is Rp 75,000. No Fiscal tax-exempt to pay for Indonesian and expatriates holding KITAS for International departure. Ngurah Rai Intíl Airport, Tel: (0361) 751-011
■ MEXICO PT Puri Astina Putra Building Jl. Prof. Moh. Yamin 1A, Renon, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 223-266, Fax: (0361) 244-568 E-mail: consulmex@astinatravel.com
Call an ambulance by dialing 118, but it is a lot more practical and quicker to hire a taxi. Most hotels have on-call doctors on standby. For “Bali Belly”, Lomotil and Imodium eliminate symptoms, but not gastro-related infections. A fever along with symptoms requires doctor-prescribed antibiotics. Drink as much liquid as possible. Isotonic drinks under various brand names are widely available and are known to replenish body hydration and replace fluids. For discomfort, diarrhea and cramping, drink strong, hot tea; avoid fruits and spicy foods. Some day-biting mosquitoes carry dengue fever, but this is not a problem in tourist areas. Bali is non-malarial and prophylaxis is not required. Mosquito bites, cuts or abrasions easily become infected in the tropics. Treat them immediately. Drink only bottled or boiled water. Peel fruit before eating; avoid raw vegetables except at reputable restaurants. Ice in restaurants is safe. Protect yourself from the intense equatorial sun. Use high SPF sunblock and a hat. AIDS and sexually transmitted diseases are increasing in Indonesia. Local sex workers have multiple partners from around the world. They are not checked for sexually transmitted diseases. Act responsibly and use condoms, available over the counter at pharmacies.
■ NETHERLANDS
■ ROYAL DANISH Sunset Road No. 89 Ruko Sunset Indah I Kav. 3 Tel: (0361) 821-6979, Fax: (0361) 7666-38 E-mail: danishconsbali@gmail.com
CLINIC&HOSPITAL 24-hour emergency medical clinic services, medical evacuation, multilingual staff. Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai 505X, Kuta 80361 Tel: (0361) 710-505, Fax: (0361) 710-515
(ARMA) Ubud, Tel: (0361) 976-659, Fax: 974-229. Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud, open daily 8 am-6pm
■ ABIAN KAPAS Jl. Nusa Indah, East Denpasar Tel: (0361) 227-176
■ ANTONIO BLANCO Ubud , Tel: (0361) 975-502, 975-551 open daily 8 am-5 pm
■ ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM Pejeng, Tel: (0361) 942-352 Open 8 am - 3 pm weekdays
■ GEDONG KIRTYA HISTORICAL LIBRARY Tel: (0362) 25141, Jl. Veteran, Singaraja. Open 7am - 3pm Monday Thursday, until Fridaynoon, closed on weekends
■ GALLERY SENIWATI Jl. Ubud Raya, Gianyar. Tel: (0361) 975-485 ■ MUSEUM BALI Tel: (0361) 235-059, 222-680, Jl. Let. Kol Wisnu, Denpasar ■ MUSEUM LE MAYEUR Tel: (0361) 286-164, Jl. Hang Tuah, Sanur. Open 8 am - 2 pm, Tuesday - Sunday.
■ MUSEUM MANUSA YADNYA Mengwi, open daily, but often unattended
■ MUSEUM NEKA Tel: (0361) 975-074, 975-034, Jl. Raya Campuan, Ubud open daily 9 am - 5 pm.
Tel: (0361) 975-136, 971-159, Jl. Raya Ubud, Ubud, www.mpl-ubud.com
■ MUSEUM RUDANA Tel: (0361) 975-779, 976-479, Peliatan, Ubud
■ MUSEUM SUBAK Tel: (0361) 810-315, Jl. Raya Kediri, Desa Sanggulan, Tabanan
■ BIMC Hospital Kuta ■ POLAND
■ BRITAIN
■ SPAIN
■ BIMC Hospital Nusa Dua
Jl. Tirta Nadi 20, Sanur, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 270-601, Fax: (0361) 287-804 E-mail: bcbali@dps.centrin.net.id
Istana Kuta Galeria, Blok Vallet 2, No. 11 Jl. Patih Jelantik, Kuta Tel: (0361) 769-296, Fax: (0361) 769-296 E-mail: espana_bali@blueline.net.id
24h Accident and Emergency Centre, 24h Medical Centre, international standard hospital with fully equipped ambulances, emergency room, intensive care unit, operating theatres, radiology and pathology, ward rooms, international and multilingual team of medical experts, CosMedic Centre, Dialysis Centre, Dental Centre. Kawasan BTDC, Blok D, Nusa Dua 80363, Tel: (0361) 3000-911, Fax: (0361) 3001-150
NEW ZEALAND Jl. Tantular No. 32, Renon - Denpasar 80234 Tel: (0361) 241-118, Fax: (0361) 221-195 E-mail: bali.congen@dfat.gov.au www.bali.indonesia.embassy.gov.au
■ AGUNG RAI MUSEUM OF ART
■ INTERNATIONAL SOS CLINIC
Jl.Gunung Agung 93, Denpasar 80118 Tel: (0361) 426-171, Fax: (0361) 426-477 E-mail: konsulslowakbali@yahoo.com
■ AUSTRALIA, CANADA,
MUSEUMS
■ MUSEUM PURI LUKISAN
KCB Travel, Jl. Raya Kuta 127, Kuta Tel: (0361) 761-502, Fax: (0361) 752-777 E-mail: dutchconsulate@kcb-tours.com
24h Accident and Emergency Centre, 24h Medical Centre, international standard hospital with fully equipped ambulances, emergency room, intensive care unit, operating theatres, radiology and pathology, ward rooms, international and multilingual team of medical experts, CosMedic Centre for non-invasive and invasive cosmetic and aesthetic treatments. Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai 100X, Kuta 80361 Tel: (0361) 761-263, Fax: (0361) 767-701
CONSULATES
■ RUMAH SAKIT UMUM PUSAT SANGLAH (General Hospital): Jl. Diponegoro, Sanglah, Denpasar. Tel: (0361) 227-911/15
Jl. Raya Petitenget No. 11, Block I/C, Banjar Umasari, Kerobokan Tel: (0361) 732-165, Fax: (0361) 732-165 E-mail: consul@balipolandconsulate.com
■ SLOVAKIA
TOURIST INFO. ■ INTEGRATED TOURISM INFORMATION CENTER (ITIC) A one-stop tourist information complex of ten provinces in Indonesia comprising Bali, Lampung, Jakarta, Banten, West Java, Central Java, East Java, Jogjakarta. Jl. Raya Kuta 2, Kuta, 80361; Tel: (0361) 766-188
■ NGURAH RAI INTERNATIONAL
■ BRAZIL Jl. Raya Legian No. 186, Kuta Tel: (0361) 757-775, Fax: (0361) 751-005 E–mail: brazilconsul@bali.net
■ SWEDEN & FINLAND Segara Village Hotel, Jl. Segara Ayu Tel: (0361) 282-211, Fax: 282-211 E-mail: sweconsul@yahoo.com
■ CHILE Jl. Jl. Pengembak Gg 1 No. 3, Sanur, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 756-781, Fax: (0361) 756-783 E-mail: chilehonconsulate@bali-villa.com
■ CZECH REPUBLIC Jl. Pengembak 17 Sanur.
■ THAILAND Jl. Puputan Raya No. 81,
70
■ BADUNG GOVERNMENT TOURISM OFFICE Jl. Kuta Raya 2, Kuta Tel: (0361) 756-175/76
■ BALI GOVERNMENT TOURISM OFFICE Jl. Supratman, Niti Mandala, Renon, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 222-387
■ SILOAM HOSPITALS
■ SINGARAJA TOURIST INFORMATION OFFICE Jl. Veteran 23, Singaraja Tel: (0362) 251-41
24-hour emergency 779-911 Jl. Sunset Road No. 818, Kuta, Badung, Bali Tel: +62-361-779-900 E-mail: info.bali@siloamhospitals.com
■ UBUD TOURIST INFORMATION SERVICE Jl. Raya Ubud, Gianyar Tel: (0361) 96-285, 973-285; 8 am - 9 pm
■ SWITZERLAND & AUSTRIA Jl. Ganetri 9 D, Gatot Subroto Timur, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 264-149, Fax: (0361) 243-747 E-mail: bali@honrep.ch
AIRPORT Tel: (0361) 751-011
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