Bali & Beyond Magazine November 2013

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EXPLORE LEMBONGAN THE ALLURING LITTLE ISLAND AN OFF THE COAST OF BALI

www.baliandbeyond.co.id

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TEAMTALK

ARTISTS’ HAVEN ‘Om Swastiastu...’ Bali is a gorgeous island that is brimming with talented artists. Whether it’s wood carvers, painters, musicians, dancers or photographers, we’ve encountered many artistically gifted people here and continue to be blown away by them on a daily basis. Whether they are Balinese or hail from beyond Bali and have been drawn in by the island’s allure, there’s no denying that they collectively capture and create countless magical moments. Throughout the past year we have regularly featured articles on traditional Balinese dance, so in this edition we chose to focus more on paintings and photography. Check out LIFESTYLE & LEISURE to see our round up of noteworthy art spaces and museums in Bali, and turn to PROFILE & PORTRAIT to read our interview with artist Arin Sunaryo (the young Indonesian artist has works hanging in the Guggenheim New York). Also don’t forget to check out our coverage on a handful of Jakarta’s famous street artists in CAPITAL CORNER. Additionally, we share with you our visit to Seniman Coffee in Ubud, a coffee studio with eye-catching furniture and glassware that they’ve designed themselves from recycled items. These talented folks have been instrumental to the creation of the first Ubud Public Arts Festival – find our snapshots from the event in this month’s SIGHTS & SOUNDS. We realize that our coverage only skims the surface of what’s available on the island, but we hope it helps to whet your appetite and encourages you to explore and get involved with the local arts scene yourself. Have fun and keep creating, readers! ‘Om Shanti Shanti Shanti Om…’ The Team

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CONTRIBUTORS

1 3

2

4 4

5 1 Bayu Rahanatha is a lecturer at Udayana University and a Marketing Communications specialist. He also has his own business in tourism but still finds time to continue his writing hobby. 2 Anggara Mahendra is a Balinese photographer based in Denpasar. He is currently working on personal documentary projects related to cultural, social and environmental issues.

3 Paul V. Walters is the best selling author of two novels, Final Diagnosis and Blowback. The third in this trilogy, Counterpoint, is due for release in November 2013. 4 Fadil Aziz is a travel photographer whose main passion is capturing the archipelago’s beauty. www.alcibbum-photography.com 5 Anne Dewi is a writer based in Jakarta who loves traveling and trying out new places to eat in Indonesia’s capital.

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BALI & BEYOND General Manager

GOESTAMAR ARDIBRATA goestamar@baliandbeyond.co.id

Senior Editor

MUTIA ARINI ADISOMA mutia@baliandbeyond.co.id

Editor

ARIKO AHMAD ariko@baliandbeyond.co.id

Editorial Advisors Graphic Advisor

A.A. GEDE RAI, JOHN M. DANIELS WENIAR PRAMESTI

Graphic Designer

PUTU PARTAJAYA putu@baliandbeyond.co.id

Web & Graphic Designer

MELIYANA SANTOSO meli@baliandbeyond.co.id

Advertising & MarComm. Manager

D. ARIEF SENOAJI arief@baliandbeyond.co.id

Advertising Sales Executive

NOVENTY ARIANI venty@baliandbeyond.co.id MEE WAURAN mee@baliandbeyond.co.id

F&A Supervisor Accounting Staff GA & Personnel Adm Distribution

A.A. KETUT SUKERTI agung@baliandbeyond.co.id I GUSTI AYU MADE RINA ADIARI rina@baliandbeyond.co.id I GEDE ADARA adara@baliandbeyond.co.id NYOMAN TRI HARIAN SAPUTRA nyoman@baliandbeyond.co.id

Contributors ANGGARA MAHENDRA, PAUL V. WALTERS, FADIL AZIZ TIM HAIN, YOGA RAHARJA, ANNE DEWI, BAYU RAHANATHA

Jakarta Marketing Services/Subscription RISKA WAHYUNINGSIH riska.wahyuningsih@baliandbeyond.co.id Tel: (021) 398 36061 (Ext. 224) Publisher PT. BUMI DIAN KUSUMA Commissioner SOETIKNO SOEDARJO Director MAULANA INDRAGUNA SUTOWO Division Head MRA Printed Media INDRIATI WIRJANTO Printing PT. SUBURMITRA GRAFISTAMA, JAKARTA OFFICE Bali White House - Jl. Dewi Sri No. 23 Block IV, Kuta 80361- Bali Tel: +62 361 8868601-2, Fax: +62 361 750075 E-mail:mag@baliandbeyond.co.id http://www.baliandbeyond.co.id

Bali & Beyond Magazine is published monthly by PT. Bumi Dian Kusuma under the direction of MRA Media, Jakarta. Although every care is taken, neither the publishers nor any of their designees assume responsibility for the opinions and information expressed by editorial contributors. All material in this publication is copyrighted and cannot be reproduced without written permission of the publisher or author. All trademark and rights to Bali & Beyond are reserved by PT Bumi Dian Kusuma. Editorial materials may be submitted for consideration to the editorial office. Bali & Beyond is not responsible for the return of unsolicited material. © 2006 Bali & Beyond ISSN 0216-4590

Endorsed by

BALI GOVERNMENT TOURISM OFFICE Jl. S. Parman, Niti Mandala Renon, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 222 387, 226 313 Fax: (0361) 226 313

A member of

www. skal.org skalbali@dps.centrin.net.id

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THE SUN... THE SAND... THE SURF... THE CULTURE OF PARADISE AND OVER 18,000 SURROUNDING ISLANDS

contents 11.13 NOVEMBER 2013 Volume 15 No. 162

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INVITE&INDULGE GET IN TUNE

WELCOME TO BALI by Yoga Raharja

This blissful spa treatment at Ayana Resort will help you realign your chakras

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SIGHTS&SOUNDS

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PHOTOS & FUN FACTS

We take a look at the making of Uluwatu’s beautiful handmade Balinese lace

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REST&RELAXATION

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VILLAGE HIDEAWAY

LIFESTYLE&LEISURE LET’S GET ARTSY

Relax at Kampung Cenik, a tucked away haven in the middle of busy South Bali

A roundup of museums and art spaces that you should visit on the island

84 BEYONDUPDATES News updates from the tourism industry and what’s new beyond Bali

EASTERN OPULENCE A visit to Edogin Japanese Restaurant during their Teppanyaki buffet night

86 COMMUNITYCALENDAR

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An interview with artist Arin D. Sunaryo, whose artwork is displayed at the Guggenheim New York

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PONDERINGPOINT THE NEXT GENERATION Thoughts on raising kids these days and how the arts often get a back seat

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FOTOFOLIO THROUGH THE LENSE

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Hot deals and promotions of the month that shouldn’t be missed

This month’s select news updates from the island’s tourism industry and what’s new around the island

DINE&DELIGHTS

THE LATEST EXPORT

22 PRIMEPROMOTION

26 NEW&NEWS

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PROFILE&PORTRAIT

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Scenes from Bali captured by Yoga Raharja, a Bali-based award-winning 16 BALI&BEYOND NOVEMBER 2013 photograher

Schedules, calendar highlights and various happenings of interest, from art exhibitions to special events

88 SEE&SEEN Snapshots of events and happenings within the preceding month

92 BALIMAPS Map of Bali showing specific tourism areas and places of interest, as well as a distance scale between the island’s main destinations

98 INFOINDEX Useful directory of companies and island-based businesses

FIRST COLUMN PHOTO COURTESY OF EDOGIN JAPANESE RESTAURANT AT MULIA BALI SECOND COLUMN BY YOGA RAHARJA, THIRD COLUMN COURTESY OF JAKARTA HASHION WEEK 2013

PARADISE LACE

A special compilation of fun facts and quirky finds from September and October

CRAFT&CULTURE


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THE SUN... THE SAND... THE SURF... THE CULTURE OF PARADISE AND OVER 18,000 SURROUNDING ISLANDS

contents 11.13 NOVEMBER 2013 Volume 15 No. 162

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LITTLELOVES

COFFEE ART

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OFF TO LAKE TOBA Road tripping from North Sumatra’s capital to Indonesia’s largest lake

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ACTION&ATTRACTION LURE OF LEMBONGAN Nusa Lembongan island has lots of adventures in store for you!

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CAPITALCORNER STREET ART Read about some of Jakarta’s top street artists and the messages behind their works 18

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TOP PHOTO BY FADIL AZIS, BOTTOM PHOTO BY TIM HAIN

There’s a different kind of coffee scene brewing at Seniman Coffee Studio in Ubud


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PRIMEPROMOTION

ICY TREAT Cool yourself down with Mulia’s Shaved Ice after spending a day under the hot tropical sun. Available in a range of irresistible flavors like mango, lemon, milk tea and coffee, and topped with generous amounts of fresh fruit, jellies and rich syrups, it’s a refreshing way to complete a blissful day in paradise. The Mulia, Mulia Resort & Villas Jalan Raya Nusa Dua Selatan, Nusa Dua (0361) 301-7777 www.themulia.com

HOLIDAY SPIRIT Bring your loved ones to Jemme Dining for a traditional Christmas experience this coming holiday season. Savor their delicious Christmas set menu that includes roast turkey, blue cheese and warm steak winter salad, Christmas pudding, mulled wine and homemade mince pies, while being entertained by Christmas carol singers. There will also be an appearance by the jolly man in red himself! This dinner offer runs from December 24 - 26 for Rp. 650,000++ per person. There will be just three sittings per day so reserve your spot now! Jemme Dining Jalan Petitenget, Seminyak

CARNIVOROUS BEER LOVERS

(0361) 473-2392 www.jemmebali.com

Experience the first ever beer and meat festival at Le Méridien Bali Jimbaran, named ‘Beergasm Bali’. This four-day event is taking place each Saturday from October 19 to November 9 at the Smoqee Sky Bar. For Rp. 149,000 net per person you can enjoy two hours of free flow specially infused Bintang Beer, live bands and DJs. For an additional Rp. 249,000 net per person you’ll get to indulge in the all-you-can-eat barbecue that includes ribs, rotisserie duck, sausage, There will also be over 20 beer labels to try – a beer aficionado’s dream come true. Don’t miss out! Le Méridien Bali Jimbaran Jalan Bukit Permai, Jimbaran (0361) 846-6888 www.lemeridien.com

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ALL COURTESY PHOTOS

chicken chili wings and BBQ lamb shoulder, just to name a few.


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PRIMEPROMOTION

NEW KID ON THE BAY The Hai Bar & Grill is a brand new beachfront bar and restaurant that has just opened on the soft white sands of Mushroom Bay in Nusa Lembongan. It offers a diverse menu of fresh local seafood, international dishes and wood fire pizzas in an airy and relaxing space with a stunning view of the bay. Open every day, their Happy Hour runs from 5 to 7 p.m. on weekdays. They even offer free pick up service! Hai Bar & Grill Mushroom Beach, Nusa Lembongan

NATURAL BEAUTY

(0366) 559-6415

PURE Skin and Body Care beauty products from A.W. Lake Spa are now available at Rob Peetoom Hair Spa Bali. This skin care range is made with natural ingredients, is easy to use and is highly effective, combining PURE BASICS and SUPERCHARGED SERUMS containing bioactive ingredients to target specific skin concerns. Try these products out with a 90-minute Soothing and Rehydrating Facial at Rob Peetom; you’ll love the friendly staff there and the breezy, open-air spa atmosphere. Rob Peetoom Hair Spa Bali, Jalan Petitenget No. 16, Seminyak (0361) 738-363, www.robpeetoom.nl

KITCHEN MASTER Sharpen your cooking skills this month by taking a cooking class at Bali Niksoma Resort. Under the guidance of Chef Sumada you’ll learn how to prepare delectable dishes such as boiled sticky rice dumplings, young papaya salad, and grilled fish with Balinese spices. With a view of the sparkling waves at Legian Beach, it’s a great way to spend an afternoon! The program costs Rp. 195,000 net per person (includes a certificate and recipes to take home) and ALL COURTESY PHOTOS

is available until the end of this year. Please book two days in advance. Bali Niksoma Boutique Beach Resort Jalan Padma Utara, Legian (0361) 751-947 www.baliniksoma.com

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NEW&NEWS

CREATIVE SOLUTIONS Bali Turtle Island has been selected as the Southeast Asia regional hub for the Sustainable Development Solutions Network (SDSN), a global initiative of the United Nations. The SDSN aims to unlock solutions to sustainable development challenges faced around the world through global networking, crowd sourcing, and open-source problem solving. It is engaged in creating a system of think tanks, universities, NGOs and cutting edge businesses that will work with governments to take on complicated challenges. Launched by President Susilo Bambang Yudhoyono on October 6 during APEC 2013, the hub will be located at the United in Diversity Creative Campus. www.unsdsn.org www.unitedindiversity.org

SPREADING AWARENESS On October 18, Bali Pink Ribbon opened the first-ever breast cancer support center in Indonesia. Educational pamphlets in English and Bahasa Indonesia are available at the center and monthly seminars on early breast cancer detection will take place there as well. Currently there is a photographic exhibition on the second floor that shows the emotional journey of women around Indonesia who have been battling breast cancer. The center’s opening was supported by the British Ambassador to Indonesia, Mark Canning. Pink Ribbon House Jalan Dewi Sri IV No. 1, Kuta (0361) 835-2299 www.balipinkribbon.com

WINE LOVERS The Seminyak Beach Resort & Spa has launched a new wine shop called The Cellar, which offers over 150 fine wines and champagnes from around the world in an exquisitely designed space. The Cellar is resort and is open daily to both in-house and outside guests from 11 a.m. to 10:30 p.m. The Seminyak Beach Resort & Spa Jalan Kayu Aya, Seminyak (0361) 730-814 www.theseminyak.com

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ALL COURTESY PHOTOS

located within the lobby area of the beachfront


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NEW&NEWS

BLIND TESTS The Balinese premium whisky Drum Green Label has recently won a Bronze Award at the 2013 International Wine & Spirit Competition (IWSC). IWSC is considered to be the most prestigious competition of its kind in the world, where the products are tasted blind by expert panels and then subject to technical analysis. Drum Green Label is the only real whisky being produced in Indonesia that offers a unique taste by combining Scotch and Bourbon whisky making processes. It has a woody and oaky aroma, a buttery taste and a fruity finish.

ECO RESPONSIBILITY The Nusa Dua Beach Hotel & Spa has recently been awarded Silver Certified status by EarthCheck (the world’s leading certifier of travel and tourism organizations), proving the hotel’s ongoing commitment to the environment. With this honor it has officially joined industry leaders of the same status from more than 65 countries. Through sustainable practices and green initiatives in their daily operations, the hotel also recently received the “Green Hotel Award 2013” from Indonesia’s Minister of Tourism and Creative Economy Mari Elka Pangestu. Nusa Dua Beach Hotel & Spa, BTDC Lot. N4, Nusa Dua (0361) 771-210, www.nusaduahotel.com

MULTILINGUAL EASE made the accessibility of their website much easier with the launch of the Chinese version of their website. Potential guests from China, Asia and beyond now have three languages to choose from when booking their stay online – English, Indonesian and Chinese. www.favehotels.com/home/chn

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ALL COURTESY PHOTOS

Due to an ever-increasing Chinese following, favehotels has


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CRAFT&CULTURE

PARADISE LACE PEEK INSIDE THE FACTORY OF ULUWATU HANDMADE BALINESE LACE.

L

ace is not actually a

30’s that sewing machines began

traditional Balinese craft,

to make an appearance in Bali,

as originally the customary

and those were the manual and

dress for Balinese women

foot-paddled kind. In the 1940’s,

was a sarong around the

the Indonesian government began

waist and bare top. However,

to encourage Balinese women

Bali does produce extraordinary

to cover up with blouses. From

and intricate textiles for religious

then on, kebaya blouses became

ceremonies and dance costumes.

the garment of choice for women

It wasn’t until the 1920’s and

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to wear to the temple. With the


availability of sewing machines, the

the fad soon faded and many

stood firmly with their philosophy

Balinese quickly learned to make

switched to producing garments

of producing quality handmade

lace and master skills that were fast

without lace, as they were easier

Balinese lace. Prioritizing quality

disappearing elsewhere in the world.

and quicker to produce.

over quantity is what ultimately

Lace tops became popular in

enabled them to become the leader

the early 1980’s when surfer girls

ULUWATU LACE

began to don them, and from then

Uluwatu Handmade Balinese Lace

on hundreds of home industries

was one of those home industries

produces in small amounts compared

sprang up across Bali, popularizing

that fed the trend in the 80’s. Yet,

to other clothing or garment brands

the term “Balinese lace”. However,

as the trend died down the brand

out there. The company has never

BALI&BEYOND NOVEMBER 2013

of the market.

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Up until now, the brand still


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1

2

3

2

3

4

The seamstress spun the cotton thread preparing for the krawang process The fabric used for krawang has to be stretched on a bamboo hoop The seamstress starts the krawang process by embroidering the motif screen printed on to the fabric Trimming of the krawang to get rid of unwanted extra fabric and to create a more defined lines.

resorted to big production – Uluwatu

designer, Besti Lestari, to delve

has a small factory in Tabanan

deeper into the steps of producing

that employs only about 300 or so

the beautiful garments that Uluwatu

people (most of whom are women)

has long been known for.

to skillfully make Uluwatu’s lace using the finest quality materials.

“It starts off with a motif design for the lace. We decide on what kind of motif to use, whether it’s a

AN INTRICATE PROCESS

traditional flower motif like Uluwatu’s

The process of creating a kebaya

signature lotus flower, or something

blouse takes about a week and is

more modern like paisley,” she

handled by only one seamstress,

explained. “Afterwards, we

so each item produced is unique.

implement the designed motif into

We caught up with Uluwatu’s head

the pattern of the clothes, trace it

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PHOTOS COURTESY OF ULUWATU LACE

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“IT STARTS OFF WITH A MOTIF DESIGN FOR THE LACE. WE DECIDE ON WHAT KIND OF MOTIF TO USE, WHETHER IT’S A TRADITIONAL FLOWER MOTIF LIKE ULUWATU’S SIGNATURE LOTUS FLOWER OR SOMETHING MORE MODERN LIKE PAISLEY.” and screen print it onto the fabric we

starts the krawang sewing, which is a

followed by precise trimming of the

are going to use for the kebaya.”

painstaking process where the fabric

lace to the intended design.

She continued by explaining how

is stretched on bamboo hoops and

some garments must be sewn in

sewn on paddle-powered machines,

numerous phases, as the krawang

creating the delicate honeycomb-like

THE WOMAN BEHIND THE BRAND

production process is pretty

holes which will then turn into lace.

Made Jati is the founder of this long-

complicated.

Then comes the washing process

running Balinese lace brand and has

to strengthen the lace and fabric,

an inspiring story. Coming from very

After the screen print, their tailor

humble beginnings, she is the second child of nine and grew up in a poor fisherman’s family in the beach village of Kuta. Her entrepreneurial sense started to emerge as foreign visitors began to arrive in Kuta in the 1960’s. At the time, Made would go down to the beach with cold drinks, fresh fruit and a few sarongs to sell to Kuta’s first tourists. Some of them wanted to bring back handicrafts to sell in their own countries. From here, Made jumped at the opportunity and helped them find things to buy, organized their purchases and scheduled deliveries. By the time she was 17 years old she had her own small business, making lace blouses for tourists. In the early 80’s, when Balinese lace became all the rage for surfer girls, her business really took off. She started to export garments in the thousands every month. She named her company ‘Uluwatu’ after the temple that gave her so much inspiration for her early lace designs. By Ariko Ahmad

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LIFESTYLE&LEISURE

LET’S GET ARTSY OUT OF THE MANY GALLERIES THAT DOT BALI’S LANDSCAPE, HERE’S A SMALL HANDFUL THAT WE VISITED TO QUELL OUR CURIOSITY. ASIDE FROM SHOWCASING BEAUTIFUL PAINTINGS OR PHOTOGRAPHS, THEY ALL HAVE VERY DIFFERENT AMBIANCES AND EVEN OFFER AREAS TO HANG OUT!

BIASA ARTSPACE BALI BIASA sits right on the main drag, flanked by rows of boutiques and

AGUNG RAI MUSEUM OF ART (ARMA) To get your fix of Balinese

Adrien Jean Le Mayeur,

up of several buildings

vendors selling accessories

and the German painter

surrounded by gardens

and knickknacks. However,

Walter Spies.

and ponds. There is also

once you’ve set foot in

a stage for theatre and

the grey tiled entrance

and Indonesian paintings,

eeriness to its interiors,

dance performances.

hall, you’ll feel as though

ARMA is the place for

and you could probably

Admission is Rp. 30,000

you’ve been transported

you to go. The museum

hear a pin drop in this

and includes tea or coffee

somewhere far away

features works by famous

museum. Regardless, we

in outdoor bales with

from busy Raya Seminyak

Indonesian artists such as

loved seeing the intricate

views of the surrounding

Street.

I Gusti Nyoman Lempad,

Batuan paintings from

rice fields.

Ida Bagus Made, and

the 1930’s and 40’s as

Javanese artist Raden

well as the gorgeous

Open daily

looking, the grey tile

Saleh. You can also see

stone carvings on the

from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m.

covers both the floor and

the works of foreign artists

walls near the entrance

Jalan Pengosekan, Ubud

walls. There’s an expansive

who have lived in Bali

to the main building. The

(0361) 976-659

patch up above painted a

such as Rudolf Bonnet,

museum is actually made

www.armabali.com

There is a slight

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It’s quite an edgy space – almost industrial

BALI&BEYOND NOVEMBER 2013


KENDRA GALLERY

special exhibition goes up.

Lots of natural light floods

About 70 percent of the

this lovely little art space

paintings and installations

in Seminyak. The look is

were by local artists (most

simple and clean – white

hailing from Yogyakarta)

walls, whitewashed

while the other 30 percent

wooden floors and chunks

were international.

of wood that have been

At Kendra, jazzy tunes

sanded down to become

play in the background,

stair steps. There’s a

admission is free and

garden area that can be

visitors are welcome to

seen through the floor-to-

hang out in the library

ceiling glass window – so

after perusing the art. So

sophisticated a space that

feel free to have some

it’s even been used for

quiet time alone or invite

birthdays and weddings in

friends to chitchat and

the past.

linger in the pleasant

Hanging on the walls

atmosphere.

at the time of our visit

contrasting orange color

pieces from their extensive

and light pours in through

stock. Admission is free,

the skylights. You’ll hear

so duck in and have

just the sound of your

a look the next time

footsteps and a bit of

you’re out and about in

rustling from the offices

Seminyak.

was a youthful and eye-

Open Mon – Sat

catching hodgepodge

from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.

of contemporary pieces

Jalan Drupadi No. 88b,

from a number of artists,

Seminyak

a nice mix for visitors

(0361) 736-628

to enjoy before the next

www.kendragallery.com

upstairs. At the time of our visit

Open weekdays

we were able to catch

from 11 a.m. to 7 p.m.

the tail end of the exhibit

Saturdays 1 to 6 p.m.

“Observations of the

Jalan Raya Seminyak

Self” by visual artist Sara

No. 34

Nuytemans. In December,

(0361) 847-5766

the art space will feature

www.biasaart.com

BALI&BEYOND NOVEMBER 2013

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POSITIVE NEGATIVE VISUAL GALLERY

been known to enjoy

While the other galleries

space.

cheese and art in the cozy Currently lining their

mostly paintings, we just

walls are photographs

had to throw in this tiny

from 25 local and

gem in Seminyak – a

international exhibitors,

contemporary art space

including Yoga Raharja,

that was showcasing

whose work can be

photography at the time of

found in this edition’s

our visit.

FOTO FOLIO (pg. 56).

Located not too far

Admission is free so check

from Kendra Gallery (it’s

it out before the exhibition

actually within walking

ends later this month.

distance), Positive Negative sits next door

Open daily

THE BLANCO RENAISSANCE MUSEUM

captivated him, which

to Kzu, a relatively

from 9:30 a.m. to 8 p.m.

you can see in the heavily

new lunch spot that has

(9 p.m. on weekends)

framed portraits lining

quickly grown a devoted

Jalan Drupadi No. 92,

This museum in Ubud is

the walls. You might even

following. The gallery is

Seminyak

set amongst an expansive

run into his son Mario

quite small but manages

(0361) 714-2838

garden that includes a

Blanco in the studio on the

to fit in two tall tables

facebook.com/pngallery

small bird park located

museum grounds.

surrounded by tall chairs.

not too far from the entrance. The birds are

Admission is Rp. 50,000, which includes

not to miss – they won

an iced tropical welcome

our hearts over with their

drink. You can elect to

vibrant feathers and their

have your drink at the

tame and lovable nature.

end of your tour rather

The museum itself

We hear that guests have

than at the beginning, so

is several floors and

take a seat and have a

features the works of Don

rest in the restaurant area

Antonio Blanco, a rather

surrounded by beautiful

eccentric Spanish artist

orchids growing straight

who passed away in

out of the tree barks.

1999. He devoted much of his work to capturing

Open daily from 9 a.m.

the beauty of Balinese

to 5 p.m.

women. Since arriving

Jalan Campuhan, Ubud

in Bali in 1952, the

(0361) 975-502

beauty of their form really

www.blancomuseum.com

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BALI&BEYOND NOVEMBER 2013

By Mutia Adisoma

BIASA AND KENDRA PHOTOS COURTESY, POSITIVE NEGATIVE BY YOGA RAHARJA ARMA AND BLANCO PHOTOS BY ARIKO AHMAD

in this article feature

leisurely evenings of wine,


BALI&BEYOND NOVEMBER 2013

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DINE&DELIGHTS

EASTERN OPULENCE FRESH INGREDIENTS AND IMMACULATE PRESENTATION. THE SELECTION OF JAPANESE CUISINE AT EDOGIN’S ALL-YOU-CAN-EAT NIGHTS IS TRULY A SIGHT TO BEHOLD.

W

hether it’s

The tantalizing selection makes it

have access to all the sushi, sashimi,

the Wagyu

incredibly difficult to decide what

tempura and teppanyaki that their

beef from

to eat first and what to save for the

little hearts (and hungry bellies)

Kagoshima

next round.

desire. The buffet is also available on

Prefecture

Located on the Promenade level

Saturday evenings.

in Japan or the slices of blue fin tuna

of Mulia Resort in Nusa Dua, Edogin

from the famous Tsukiji fish market in

Japanese Restaurant is open daily for

A FEAST FOR THE EYES

Tokyo, everything looks so fresh at

lunch and dinner. We visited Edogin

Walking into the buffet area,

Edogin that you can’t help but feel

on a Friday evening specifically for

we were blown away by how

the urge to pile it all onto your plate.

the all-you-can-eat offer, where diners

immaculately arranged every piece

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BALI&BEYOND NOVEMBER 2013


order. I even noticed my friend

and ramen noodles, Japanese-style

arranging the items on his plate

curry with white rice, and prawn

as he paced around the buffet,

and vegetable tempura. Not too far

perhaps unintentionally mirroring the

from that is an area where chefs

aesthetically pleasing surroundings.

offer just-grilled robatayaki, which is

It wasn’t long before the

basically skewered meat grilled over

restaurant began to fill up with

hot charcoal.

patrons. The majority seemed to

The chefs grill the robatayaki

be guests of Mulia Bali but there

continually but also grill to order if

were definitely diners from outside

you prefer to choose your own slices

the hotel and villas as well. With

of meat, seafood and vegetables.

a seating capacity of 105 persons

There is also a teppanyaki counter

in the main dining area, it did not

that flanks one side of the dining

feel cramped whatsoever. However,

room, with chairs surrounding the

those craving more privacy can

flat griddle so guests can enjoy the

opt for a private dining room that

live cooking show.

accommodates up to 10 people.

SWEET ENDINGS

Hovering quietly around the dining rooms are the incredibly

Make sure to save some space

attentive staff, clad in kimonos. They

for the vast selection of bite-sized

fold tossed-aside cloth napkins neatly

desserts incorporating Japanese

while guests are up at the buffet

ingredients or local fruits and flavors.

and make sure every single guest

The night we visited, the colorful

has enough Japanese green tea or

selection included green tea tiramisu,

refreshment of choice.

coconut jelly, fruit tarts, coffee jelly,

of food was, in particular the sushi

peanut butter chocolate mousse and

and sashimi area. The colors were

OFF THE GRILL

zenzai – a dessert with Japanese red

fantastic – the vibrant orange of

Aside from the sushi and sashimi

bean and mochi balls.

the salmon slices, the bright red

area, there is also an area with soba

salmon roe spheres, the juicy yellow lemon wedges accompanying the Canadian oysters and the refreshing green of the wakame (seaweed) at the salad bar. Speaking of the salad bar, the tangy honey yuzu dressing is not to be missed. Boasting just the right amount of acidity, it might just make you go back for a second helping of these fresh vegetables. Since we were the first table to be seated that night, everything was still untouched and it seemed almost a shame to disrupt the

BALI&BEYOND NOVEMBER 2013

39

Also not to be missed are the


many exotic ice cream flavors

it all to perfection before handing it

such as red bean, white sesame,

back over to you.

sorbet. Don’t fret if your children

NOVEMBER EVENT: SAKE PAIRING

want nothing other than familiar

If you’re looking for a more formal

flavors – Edogin also keeps vanilla,

dinner experience rather than the

all paired beautifully with the lavish

chocolate, and strawberry on hand.

buffet, a unique dinner has been

seven course set menu. Ozeki Sake’s

As if all the delicious flavors

planned for November 7 at Edogin.

Rie Maeda will be on hand to share

weren’t enough, there are also

The ‘Ozeki Sake Pairing Dinner’ will

her expertise throughout the dinner.

numerous ice cream toppings to

feature the ultra premium Judan-

For reservations email edogin.

choose from such as chocolate

Jikomi Junmai-Dai-Ginjo sake (“The

reception@themulia.com.

sprinkles, almonds, fresh fruit,

Masterpiece”), hand carried from

By Mutia Adisoma

raisins, coconut shavings, chocolate

Japan exclusively for the event.

orange, banana fudge and lychee

chips and Oreo cookie crumbles.

Aside from this premium sake,

Edogin at The Mulia, Mulia Resort &

Ask one of the chefs to mix the

you’ll be able to taste the recently

Villas - Nusa Dua, Bali

toppings into your ice cream if

released Hana-Awaka sake

Jalan Raya Nusa Dua Selatan,

you like – they have a cold stone

(“Sparkling Flower”) as well as

Nusa Dua, (0361) 301-7777

imported from Italy where they mix

Edogin’s signature sake cocktails,

www.themulia.com

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PHOTOS COURTESY OF EDOGIN AT MULIA BALI

ginger, green tea, white chocolate


BALI&BEYOND NOVEMBER 2013

41


PROFILE&PORTRAIT

THE LATEST

EXPORT HERE WE CHAT WITH ONE OF INDONESIA’S MOST SUCCESSFUL YOUNG ARTISTS, ARIN DWIHARTANTO SUNARYO, ABOUT HIS WORK FEATURED AT THE GUGGENHEIM NY, HIS INSPIRATIONS, AND ABOUT ART IN GENERAL.

Bali & Beyond (BB): Hi! Please tell our readers briefly about yourself. Arin Dwihartanto Sunaryo (ADS): I’m a 35-year-old Indonesian pursuer of dreams, working in art, trying is an artist and my mother is a

ADS: It started with me having

New York, called “Volcanic Ash

traditional wedding makeup artist.

June Yap, a Singaporean curator,

Series #4”.

I’m the second son of three siblings,

come to my studio to see my work.

all of whom work in art. I took my

She was researching Indonesian

ADS: The series came up as a

graduate and masters studies in art,

artists to be shown at an exhibition

continuation of my exploration

but I feel like I have been making art

featuring works from Southeast Asia

in using resin, a material that I

since I was a kid.

and South Asia. I’m just glad that

consider important in the process

she likes my work and decided to

of preservation. The ash has to

include me in the show.

do with my memory of the Merapi

BB: It’s really exciting that one of your artworks is featured at the

eruption that happened in 2010.

Guggenheim New York. How did

BB: Tell us more about your work

It left Indonesians with much grief

this come about?

that is featured at the Guggenheim

and suffering. What I’m trying to do

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BALI&BEYOND NOVEMBER 2013

PHOTOS COURTESY OF ARIN DWIHARTANTO SUNARYO

to make my life better. My father


is to preserve the remnants of the

recognition since the 1990’s. And

Nyoman Nuarta, Setiawan Sabana,

event as a form of memorial, which

in Southeast Asia, Indonesia is still

Tisna Sanjaya, and others. They

is one thing that art can do for its

the biggest scene for contemporary

are great teachers who have

audience.

art. Young artists now have a more

nurtured the current and upcoming

fruitful terrain to develop compared

generation. It is also useful to check

to the previous era.

out the museums, galleries and art

BB: Who influences your art?

spaces that have played a great

ADS: I can’t deny the fact that my father is one of the most influential

BB: You are currently based in

role by conducting exhibitions and

figures in my career.

Bandung. Who are some noteworthy

projects for young artists: Galeri

artists there that you think our

Soemardja, Selasar Sunaryo Art

BB: Where do you find inspiration?

readers should check out online?

Space, Galerikita, Common Room,

ADS: I tend to absorb everything I

ADS: Bandung has become

Nu-Art Sculpture Park, Lawang

see in this world as inspiration.

an active axis in Indonesian

Wangi, Platform3, S14,

contemporary art mainly because

and others.

BB: What do you think makes a

of the existence of the art school at

successful exhibition?

ITB. It’s one of the oldest art schools

BB: What message can you give to

ADS: I like exhibitions that can give

in the country that produces not only

the aspiring young Indonesian artists

an impression of wholeness, a unity

great artists but also art historians,

out there?

that is meaningful to the public.

critics and curators. You can browse

ADS: I don’t think I have anything

the names of historical figures like

to say or to give just yet. For now, I

BB: What do you think about

Ahmad Sadali, Syafei Soemardja,

prefer to keep learning from others.

Indonesian artists, particularly

Mochtar Apin, G. Sidharta, Sanento

painters?

Yuliman, Sudjoko, But Mochtar, Umi

BB: Any plans to do any solo

ADS: Visual art is not only about

Dachlan, Kaboel Suadi, Srihadi,

exhibitions in Indonesia anytime

painting. Indonesian artists have

Rita Widagdo, AD Pirous, Sunaryo,

soon? How about in Bali?

gathered much more international

Haryadi Suadi, Jim Supangkat,

ADS: Hopefully soon!

BALI&BEYOND NOVEMBER 2013

43


INVITE&INDULGE

GET IN TUNE

WITH THE HELP OF GEMSTONES AND TUNING FORKS, YOU’LL FEEL A NEWFOUND SENSE OF CALM AND BALANCE AFTER THE SEVEN CHAKRA DARA TREATMENT. 44

BALI&BEYOND NOVEMBER 2013

T

ucked away amongst the trees on an expansive plot of land in Jimbaran, the AYANA Resort & Spa Bali boasts villas

with dreamy views of the ocean, an exclusive bar set on ocean rocks, and at the time of my visit it looked as if the jogging paths had just received a dusting of snow due to the cotton trees in bloom.


GLIDE THROUGH GARDENS

a multilingual locker attendant.

The Thermes Marins Thalasso Spa

is equipped with showers, large

incorporates treatment rooms, a

mirrors, beauty amenities and ample

reflexology and relaxation lounge,

room to sit.

Cool and quiet, the locker area

steam and sauna rooms, and one Seawater Jet Pools for French

REALIGN YOUR CHAKRAS

thalassotherapy.

When I was ready, I was escorted to

of the world’s largest Aquatonic®

the second floor of the spa complex.

Checking into the expansive facility, I noticed a number of guests

Choosing the Seven Chakra Dhara

gliding around the gardens in

treatment, I looked forward to

bathrobes and slippers, and sipping

reaping the benefits of Ayurvedic

drinks from small cups in bales

massage, aromatherapy blends,

surrounded by koi ponds. Since

gemstone therapy and chakra sound

guests of this spa must be at least 17

healing to unwind after a particularly

years of age, the spa environment

demanding week.

remains tranquil, and the only things

The two-hour treatment began

you will hear are the sounds of

with a footbath, followed by an

splashing fountains and the chirping

Ayurvedic massage that pinpointed

of birds up above.

maram energy zones to relax my tired muscles and open a pathway

Upon checking in, guests are ushered into a spacious locker

for revitalized energy flow. The long

room and greeted warmly by

flowing massage combined with

Having once visited the AYANA’s ballroom for a private event, I was curious to get a taste of the hospitality and services offered at this resort. So I booked an appointment at their Thermes Marins Thalasso Spa, and this is how I came to pass through the cotton-covered winding road as I made my way to their sprawling 22,000 square meter spa facility.

BALI&BEYOND NOVEMBER 2013

45


to all seven of the chakras. Different gemstones were then placed on

WISHLIST: ON THE ROCKS Although the koi-filled ponds at

properties of natural volcanic lava that is rich in minerals. Apparently, this treatment is perfect for achieving

each chakra as a tuning fork was

the spa complex and the view from

the kind of flawless skin that brides-

played to balance the chakras.

the sunny second floor treatment

to-be dream of having on their

rooms were quite enchanting, there

wedding day.

This Seven Chakra Dhara treatment also includes a face and

is another part of the Thermes

scalp massage, but does not include

Marins Bali Spa that will really get

try this first hand, but I must say, I’m

a soak in the bath, as it is advised

your attention: Spa On The Rocks.

absolutely intrigued. Have you ever

to keep the oils on your skin for a

Imagine the unparalleled bliss of

I haven’t had the opportunity to

had the opportunity to try Spa On

couple hours after the treatment for

being perched at the tip of a rock

the Rocks? If so, why not sound off

optimum benefits.

in an open-air spa villa with views

on Bali & Beyond’s Facebook wall

of only the vast ocean. It’s just you,

and share your experience? We

quiet and I moved slightly slower

your therapist and the sound of the

would love to hear from you!

through the locker room. I had an

pounding waves, and nothing will

By Regina Indraswari

appointment to get to afterwards,

get in the way of you feeding off of

but I must say that my muscles

the positive energy of the surrounds.

After the treatment my mind was

were so relaxed that I wouldn’t

Spa On The Rocks has launched

AYANA Resort & Spa Bali Jalan Karang Mas Sejahtera

have minded a nap in one of the

a new treatment called Lava Me

(0361) 702-222

bales instead!

Tender, which utilizes the healing

www.ayanaresort.com

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BALI&BEYOND NOVEMBER 2013

PHOTOS COURTESY OF AYANA RESORT & SPA BALI

synergistic aromatherapy catered


BALI&BEYOND NOVEMBER 2013

47


Photos and fun facts that we picked up while exploring the island throughout September and October…

SIGHTS&SOUNDS

JALAN MONSTER We visited a small street in Ubud that had been transformed into an innovative outdoor exhibit space – the first Ubud Public Arts Festival. Jakarta artist Kemalezedine told us that plans for next year’s fest are already in the works, and here’s a hint: in place of monsters, it will be all about lights!

DID YOU KNOW? It takes a month at the very least to carve Balinese doors like this one out of teak wood, according to these nice gentlemen at the ARMA museum. No blueprints to be seen here, folks!

TOURISTS, REJOICE! Guess what? A new Value Added Tax (VAT) refund counter has been opened inside the new Ngurah Rai International Airport! Here is Finance Minister Chatib Basri officially opening the new counter on October 4.

FLYING COLORS We were so amazed by the colors of this Macaw at the Blanco Museum. It was like looking at a living and breathing Pantone book.

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BALI&BEYOND NOVEMBER 2013

VAT REFUND BOOTH PHOTOS BY ANGGARA MAHENDARA ALL OTHERS BY ARIKO AHMAD

LIKE A RAINBOW If you caught Miss World 2013, you might have noticed the ladies dressed in traditional Indonesian costumes from across the archipelago. Did you know that more than 120 of Indonesia’s top designers were involved with the costume design? Now that’s what we call teamwork!

NOM NOM NOM We tried this little Italian restaurant on Jalan Pengosekan in the south end of Ubud based on friendly recommendation. Mamma Mia’s pizza and salad were so good that it left us wanting more!


BALI&BEYOND NOVEMBER 2013

49


REST&RELAXATION

VILLAGE HIDEAWAY IMAGINE SITTING ON YOUR PORCH WITH THE

BREEZE BLOWING THROUGH, SIPPING TEA WHILE LISTENING TO YOUR NEIGHBOR PLAY A TRADITIONAL TUNE ON HIS BAMBOO FLUTE… 50

BALI&BEYOND NOVEMBER 2013

W

hile it may be hard to believe, this scene is not taking

place at a small village in Ubud or Singaraja – it’s actually right in the middle of Bali’s most-visited


WHAT IS “JOGLO”? The term joglo refers to a unique style of traditional Javanese roof with a rising central part supported by four or more wooden columns (saka guru), adorned with intricate carvings on the inside. This kind of structure is found mostly in Central Java and considered sacred, traditionally reserved for Javanese royalty and aristocrats (ningrat).

“golden triangle” area of Legian,

Kampung Cenik offers simple yet

village, which usually can only found

Kuta and Seminyak. This is what

unique accommodations that are

in areas outside of South Bali.

I encountered during my stay at a

ideal for those seeking traditional

quaint little boutique guesthouse

décor and a serene atmosphere

welcomed by the warm and friendly

called Kampung Cenik.

while still being close to Bali’s

staff in an airy reception area that

busiest areas. This boutique

boasts a majestic joglo structure

LITTLE GEM

guesthouse provides you with the

featuring intricate wood carvings

Literally translated as “small village”,

sense of living in a small traditional

on the ceiling. Standing in the

BALI&BEYOND NOVEMBER 2013

51

When you arrive you will be


• Krisna Oleh-Oleh Bali is practically next door! It’s less than a five-minute walk away (through the back entrance) and you can get all your Balinese mementos at this gigantic souvenir shop. • Right around the corner, you can indulge yourself at Talaga Spa. Try their traditional Javanese or Balinese coconutbased treatments. • Looking for a new surfboard? You can get a custom-made board at Studer Surfboards, just a stone’s throw away on Dewi Sri Street.

• On the same street you can savor local Javanese delicacies like Mbok Limbok’s Ayam Goreng Kremes (fried chicken with crispy batter) or Warung Indra’s Nasi Tempong. • At night, shake your groove thing at Pyramid Club Bali where international resident and guest DJs are on the decks from Wednesday to Saturday. • In the morning, go a bit further down the street to a little café called Espress for your coffee fix. Place an order for their Shakerato and try not to get hooked!

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reception area, you will be able to see the entire grounds of this little haven that oozes the charm of a quaint Indonesian village. It will immediately put you in a relaxed state.

A TOUCH OF JAVA At Kampung Cenik there are eight small traditional handmade wooden houses and a larger joglo house that have been turned into comfortable guestrooms, all surrounding a sparkling blue swimming pool in the center. The houses were all brought in from Central Java and have been set within lush tropical gardens.

OPENING PAGE PHOTO BY ARIKO AHMAD ALL OTHERS COURTESY OF KAMPUNG CENIK

THINGS TO DO IN THE NEIGHBORHOOD


Choose to either savor the view from

facilities such as satellite TV, air

MAKE IT YOUR OWN

your porch or immerse yourself in

conditioning, a coffee and tea

If you are traveling in a large group,

the cool water during one of Bali’s

maker and other amenities. Also,

it is possible to rent out all the rooms

typically hot and sunny days.

the in-room breakfast option is really

and take pleasure in creating your

convenient, especially if you are

own private little village community.

which is the biggest room at the

there for a romantic getaway.

You’ll be free to have barbecue

property. It features a traditional

By the way, if it is romance

dinners by the pool under starry

I stayed in the Rumah Joglo,

joglo structure with a carved

you are seeking, I recommend the

night skies with those nearest and

wooden ceiling that is different, but

Bawean Tentrem room. It is smaller

dearest to you, either to celebrate

no less beautiful, than the one in

than the Rumah Joglo, in the shape

something special or just have a

the reception area. It also boasts

of a small stilt house tucked privately

different kind of stay in Bali.

a canopied bed, a semi-alfresco

in the corner of the premises within

By Ariko Ahmad

bathroom, a small outdoor backyard

an enclosed space. There is a cozy

and a porch with a view of the

platform underneath the stilt house

Kampung Cenik

swimming pool.

with a mattress and some plush

Jalan Dewi Sri I No. 3, Kuta

cushions – a perfect place to linger

(0361) 894-7343

for two.

www.kampungcenik.com

Kampung Cenik’s rooms are equipped with modern room

BALI&BEYOND NOVEMBER 2013

53


PONDERINGPOINT

THE NEXT GENERATION GADGETS AND GRADES ARE GETTING PRIORITY OVER DANCE LESSONS AND PLAYTIME. SO HOW WILL THE LOCAL ARTS AND CULTURAL VALUES FAIR IN THE FUTURE?

“Nama kamu siapa? Kamu pintar

I just don’t understand how

sekali.” (What’s your name little

some parents can feel proud of

girl? Aren’t you clever.) She looked

their child’s ability to manipulate

confused and asked her mother what

all sorts of gadgets but can’t speak

I had said. Her mother told me that

a word of their mother tongue. The

her daughter couldn’t understand

number of parents that believe in the

me because Indonesian wasn’t her

importance of passing down cultural

main language. This came as quite

values and fostering an appreciation

a surprise to me, because according

for traditional language and art

to the mother they were both native

seems to be dwindling.

Indonesians! conversation about how kids are

TEACH YOUR LITTLE ONES

being raised these days and I

Dear parents, remember that one day

realized how lucky I was to be a

your lovely children will be on their

young student in the early 90s. For

own. Spend time with them while

me, school was not so hard and I

you can and let them enjoy their

had plenty of opportunities to play

childhood. To push them to study over

and lots of time to spend with my

10 hours a day just isn’t worth it,

parents. My mother and father

especially if it causes you to miss out

encouraged me to fill my free time

on precious moments with them.

We ended up having a long

with learning traditional Balinese dance, language and music.

Among the knowledge and skills that your children can acquire, make sure to pour the values of

FOR FUTURE’S SAKE

your culture into the mix as well.

These days, many Indonesian

In order for them to become strong

parents seem to have very different

contenders when facing life in

priorities for their children. For

the real world they need to have

n a bright and

the sake of a promising future,

a strong identity. Culture helps to

sunny day not

parents think that the more time

make a country strong, and it is our

too long ago, I

their kids spend at school the more

responsibility to preserve and pass

decided to enjoy

languages they will know and the

down the Indonesian traditions and

some quiet time

more technological gadgets they will

the art forms that are so intriguing

master, so the better off they will be.

and enthralling to tourists from

at a café. As I sat and sipped my cappuccino, admiring the smiley face

I agree one hundred percent with

around the globe.

in the foam, I noticed a woman and

the idea of giving our children as

her little daughter sitting next to me.

many opportunities to learn and grow

becoming a dancer, at least I know

They were both absorbed with their

as possible. I also understand that

how to explain to others the stories

gadgets – the little girl was playing

our children will face much fiercer

and meanings behind Balinese

“Candy Crush” while her mother was

competition than we ever had to go

dance performances. I am ever so

busily texting on her smart phone.

through. But I believe that on the list

grateful for all the lessons I had when

of parenting priorities, there are some

I was a child growing up in Bali.

crucial things missing these days.

By Bayu Rahanatha

I decided to make small talk with them, so I asked the little girl,

54

BALI&BEYOND NOVEMBER 2013

Even though I never ended up PHOTO BY ANGGARA MAHENDRA

O


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55


FOTOFOLIO

“Master Of Puppets”

56

BALI&BEYOND NOVEMBER 2013


THROUGH THE LENSE We stumbled upon the photographic works of Yoga Raharja while researching this edition’s LIFESTYLE & LEISURE article (pg. 34), and were so taken that we immediately thought to feature him in FOTO FOLIO. Born in Semarang, Yoga moved to Bali in 1995 and has since made the island his home. “There is no other place that is as perfect as Bali. It’s a heaven for photography,” he professed to us during a meeting in Denpasar. Yoga is particularly interested in human interest and cultural photography and he’s one of three winners at the 2013 Indonesian Photo Exhibition, which had almost 21,000 photo entries from around Indonesia. Having previously exhibited in Japan and Singapore, this month his photography can be found at Positive Negative Visual Gallery or Husk Restaurant at the Royal Beach Seminyak Bali. For inquiries, email noufron@indosat.net.id or call 08123948631.

BALI&BEYOND NOVEMBER 2013

57


This page: “In Between” Opposite page: “Backstage”

58

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59


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“The Prayer”

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BALI&BEYOND NOVEMBER 2013


This page: “Before The Storm” Opposite page: “Dare To Be Different”

BALI&BEYOND NOVEMBER 2013

63


“Melasti Ceremony”

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65


LITTLELOVES

COFFEE

ART

WE’RE NOT TALKING ABOUT DRAWING IN YOUR LATTE OR CAPPUCCINO. THIS MONTH WE’RE EXPLORING SENIMAN COFFEE STUDIO’S ARTISTIC APPROACH IN MAKING AND SERVING UP THEIR CUPS OF JOE.

HAUTE CAFFE In the short time that they have been serving coffee (one and a half years to be exact), Seniman Coffee has managed to gain a loyal following and a reputation as the go-to place for outstanding joe. Some restaurants treat coffee as an afterthought, but Seniman Coffee Studio puts a lot of thought and heart into it. Just like an artist producing artwork, this little coffee haven produces their coffee with passion and vigor – from bean selection and roasting to brewing methods. The founders, David Sullivan and Rodney

I

Glick, spent years refining and never used to be much of a

realizing their vision of a great cup

coffee guy, and back in the day

of coffee, from roasting the beans to

I was more than content to have

using the manual brewing method.

just a cup of instant coffee. But as time went on I learned

Manual brew is a method of drip brewing that uses unique

more about coffee and to be frank,

contraptions such as Syphon, Pour

I became fussier about it. Coffee

Over Drip, Aeropress, Chemex,

flavors are not just bitter or chocolaty

Clever, or Cafetiere. This method

– they can be so much more than

allows the barista to control every

that. And after a visit to Seniman

variable in the brewing process,

Coffee Studio in Ubud I realized that

creating a cup that’s exactly suited

I still have so much to learn!

to one’s preferences and highlights

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BALI&BEYOND NOVEMBER 2013


the unique character of the coffee. For example, The Light Roast has a tangy and bright taste with a tea-like structure that can only be produced through manual brew using a Syphon, with the barista consistently watching the temperature.

MORE THAN A CAFÉ The name Seniman Coffee Studio was derived from the original concept that this café would be more than just an ordinary coffee shop; it is a melting pot where contemporary art, design sensibilities, and delicate coffee techniques and science blend together. This unique blend of art and science is reflected through every aspect, from the furniture and fittings to the drink and food presentations. As you walk through this unique space, you will

BALI&BEYOND NOVEMBER 2013

67


encounter many quirky details like their original iconic rocking chairs dubbed “Bar Rocker Chairs”, the up-cycled glassware, and the unique serving stick that they use to present the manual brew coffee that comes with complementing nibbles. I particularly liked the Bar Rocker Chairs. At first sight they look to be just your everyday plastic garden chairs, but once you sit on one, you’ll soon realize that these chairs are actually rocking chairs! In fact, they are really comfortable and chic looking, with reclaimed teak wood details that turn the chairs into

who want to learn about coffee in

– from bean selection to roasting to

rocking chairs.

great detail. These classes are run

brewing – in their brand new coffee

by Seniman Coffee’s co-founder,

factory building that is just opposite

this unique venue is the fact that

David Sullivan. You can learn

the coffee shop.

they have a coffee school for those

about all aspects of coffee making

By Miko Harada

David Sullivan, Co-founder of Seniman Coffee

How long have you lived

I have always been a

They use tools and methods

in Bali?

coffee lover, especially

like the Syphon and Pour

I’ve lived here for four

during my time working

Over, which produce a

years, but I’m originally

at an ad agency where I

gourmet coffee taste.

from London, UK.

got to travel around the world and taste many

So, what makes good

How did you start Seniman

different kinds of coffee.

coffee?

Coffee?

But it wasn’t until I lived in

That’s a tough question.

Actually it started off as a

Tokyo and found out about

Well, for me it’s like

‘kaki lima’ (street vendor)

the Japanese coffee scene

science and art. You

concept. We had a cart,

that I really fell in love with

got to understand what

which we still do, selling

coffee.

happens when you brew, like the temperature and

gourmet coffee to Ubud’s streets. We opened up

Thoughts on the different

how much coffee you

a pop-up coffee shop

coffee scenes?

are putting in it. It is also

using our cart at the Ubud

Well there is the Italian

about the roasting. The

Writers Festival, and we

way, which is very

roaster should also have

were coffee partner of the

popular everywhere with

the science and a sense

festival. From the cart we

the espresso, using the

of artistry, and when they

opened up the shop about

big machine and all that.

come together, it will

one and a half years ago.

And there is the manual

produce an awesome

brew, which is very much

result.

When did you start to be

adopted in Japanese and

interested in coffee?

Taiwanese coffee culture.

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PHOTOS COURTESY OF SENIMAN COFFEE STUDIO

Another thing that I liked about


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69


ACTION&ATTRACTION

THE LURE OF LEMBONGAN FROM BOAT TO MOTORBIKE TO SURFBOARD, MAKE YOUR WAY FROM ONE METHOD OF TRANSPORT TO THE NEXT AND HAVE AN EXCITING ADVENTURE JUST OFF THE COAST OF BALI.

I

t begins with a mighty sea journey across the Badung Strait on a speedboat, powered by five 250 horsepower engines. The boat whisks you away

from the Sanur shore, and for the next twenty minutes you find yourself on one of the most remarkable and deepest stretches of water anywhere in the world. On this journey I always get a magical feeling of mystery as we cross the Java trench and the Wallace Line, with all of the

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BALI&BEYOND NOVEMBER 2013


unknowns that lurk 3,000 meters

Underdeveloped and lacking a

tourists frolic, the water becomes

under the surface. There is a

reliable water source, it looks slightly

shallow and presents us with a

point exactly in the middle of the

dry and withered.

kaleidoscope of colors in exquisite

trench where the waves follow

What it does do however, is to

blue, green and topaz hues.

the convergence of the powerful

shelter its smaller sister island of Nusa

Lembongan’s coastline drifts by,

currents swirling beneath you. But

Lembongan, wrapping itself around

her salacious curves wooing us with

the skipper, accustomed to the

her protectively to shelter her from the

her beauty.

vagrancies of the trench, navigates

worst of the wet season’s storms.

his way through the huge swells with casual aplomb.

Beneath us the seaweed farms, from which the locals derive a

We round the cliffs at the far western edge of the island where

meager living, drift by. The farms

Suddenly the sea flattens out as

the surf beats itself against the rocks.

here are in trouble as lately the

we round the point of Nusa Penida.

Gigantic plumes of spray are thrown

seaweed refuses to grow. It is

This seldom spoken-about island

high into the air before falling back

thought that the run-off from the villas

is perhaps Bali’s poorest cousin.

down. At Dream Beach, where

that cling to the hillside like limpets,

BALI&BEYOND NOVEMBER 2013

71


it’s an entirely different road trip. The potholes that are connected by thin strips of bitumen make one feel like a competitor in the Dakar Rally! and the spillage from the myriad of

at seeing me again is reinforced by

tourist boats plying these waters are

backslaps and hugs all around. In a

cry out cheerfully as we weave our

impeding its growth.

way, it’s a little like coming home.

way inland past the mangroves and

downside.

Once settled in our

into the “interior”. We stop at a small

accommodation (where the view can

school to have a peek inside and

make even the most hardened cynic

are welcomed by the children and

the beach at Jungut Batu. The

weep), the pleasures of the island

teachers as if we are rock stars. There

white sand stretches east to the

await. A motorcycle ride is the best

is no sense that we have intruded

famous surfing break aptly named

way to see the island in its entirety.

upon them or disrupted their day.

Shipwrecks. Meeting me on the

On the roads, prison rules apply,

beach is Kecho and his naughty

as it’s everyone for themselves. This

allows for the opportunity to visit

sidekick Hendra, friends of mine from

is not the chaotic, exhaust filled

the wonders of the Mushroom and

long ago. Their genuine happiness

experience of riding a bike in Bali;

Coconut Bays, where white sand

The boat eventually drifts onto

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BALI&BEYOND NOVEMBER 2013

The ride is essentially easy and

TOP AND LEFT PHOTOS THIS PAGE BY PAUL V. WALTERS ALL OTHER PHOTOS BY TIM HAIN

Tourism, as always, has its

The locals wave and the children


and warm water waits. Drinks at

teeming with multicolored fish and

sunset, at one of the myriad of bars

coral. It’s literally like being dropped

and restaurants that line the beach,

into a tropical fish tank.

are a must. If surfing is your thing, paddle out

Jungat Batu has a plethora of restaurants that line the boardwalk

from Coconut Beach to the perfect

and the beach; they are all good

barrels of Lacerations (right on top

so just take your pick. You won’t

of the coral!) or the mellower break

be disappointed! Accommodations

of Playgrounds. Or you can try

there vary from 5 star to basic

Shipwrecks, which is a bit further

backpacker, so there is truly

away and requires a boat to access.

something for everyone.

For the less adventurous, ask for

Nusa Lembongan can make your

a boatman named Pingy, who is

soul dance and your heart sing,

a third generation fisherman and

and it’s a place where time has not

guide, and he will take you to some

too much relevance. Ensnared in

of the most spectacular snorkeling

her clutches, whilst exploring and

spots in all of Indonesia. The Wall,

enjoying simple pleasures, time

Crystal Bay and the warm waters

simply loses its meaning.

right off of the mangroves are

By Paul V. Walters

BALI&BEYOND NOVEMBER 2013

GETTING THERE Scoot Fast Cruises (www.scootcruise. com) and Rocky Fast Cruises (www. rockyfastcruise.com) depart from Sanur Beach, run 4x daily (to and from), cost Rp. 500,000 Return (includes hotel pick up and drop off), and the trip takes no more than half an hour. DIVING Lembongan Dive Center Full range PADI courses English, French & Indonesian www.lembongandivecenter.com MOTOR BIKE HIRE You can hire a bike most places but beware – the roads aren’t that great and the bikes can be unpredictable. BEACH DAYS Coconut Beach, Sandy Bay, Mushroom Beach and Dream Beach

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BEYONDBALI

OFF TO LAKE TOBA

FASTEN YOUR SEATBELTS! THIS MONTH, OUR CONTRIBUTOR IS TAKING US ALONG ON HIS ROAD TRIP AROUND NORTH SUMATRA, ENDING AT INDONESIA’S LARGEST LAKE.

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BALI&BEYOND NOVEMBER 2013

75


N

orth Sumatra

Chinese from Malacca came into

photographs, I took an abandoned

is one of

the city following a plantation boom

but beautiful route to Lake Toba’s

Indonesia’s most

in the 20’s and 30’s. This area is

northernmost tip. Tongging is a

popular tourist

also known as the center of Medan’s

peaceful little hamlet, but not many

destinations, and

street food scene, and several

travelers make it there because most

one might even be overwhelmed by

historical buildings such as Café Tip

of them end their Toba tour at the

how many places there are to go to

Top, PT. London Sumatra, and Tjong

waterfall. I decided to stay overnight

and see in this province. The best

A Fie’s mansion can be found here.

as it was already pretty late by the

way to enjoy the land of the Bataks

After spending several hours

time I got there. In the morning, I hiked up a

is to have a road trip. So fasten

exploring these historical spots,

your seat belt and I will take you

I went south on Jamin Ginting

twisting path to one of the best views

along on my scenic journey to North

Street, which connects the city to

of the lake I’ve ever seen. By the

Sumatra’s largest and most popular

North Sumatra’s highlands. As I

end of it, the majestic Sipisopiso

gem, Lake Toba.

left Medan behind, the road took

Waterfall came into sight. The 120-

me through green scenery. Driving

meter waterfall hurls itself from a

START YOUR ENGINE

further south through rainforest,

cave on the side of the Lake Toba

The road trip started at North

I reached Brastagi, a small town

and is one of the top five tallest

Sumatra’s capital, Medan. I

in the Sibolangit region that is a

waterfalls in Indonesia.

took my time exploring the city’s

popular weekend destination for

historical treasures, like the Grand

Medanites.

Mosque and the nearby Maimun

This small and hilly town located

After spending hours marveling at Sipisopiso Waterfall, I continued my road trip by heading towards Taman

Palace (built by the Sultan of Deli,

between two mountains (Sibayak

Simalem. It’s a 200-hectare resort

Sultan Makmum Al Rasyid Perkasa

and Sinabung) is known for its fruit

that sits on the northwestern hills of

Alamsyah, from 1887-1891). The

and flower market, as well as a hot

Lake Toba, boasting cool breezes

city also has other historical sites

spring halfway up the Sinabung

and an unparalleled view of the

like the Kesawan area, where the

Mountain. On weekends the town

glistening lake. The resort also has

is packed with tourists, so I decided

its own coffee plantation, passion

to go up to Gundaling Hill instead

fruit farm, a 9-hole golf course, a

to enjoy a breathtaking bird’s eye

small zoo, and is neighbor to 130

view of the entire town and the

hectares of tropical jungle with two

surrounding area.

other natural waterfalls.

THE MAJESTIC SIPISOPISO WATERFALL CAME INTO SIGHT. THE 120-METER WATERFALL HURLS ITSELF FROM A CAVE ON THE SIDE OF THE LAKE TOBA AND IS ONE OF THE TOP FIVE TALLEST WATERFALLS IN INDONESIA

After spending a night at Simalem,

EDGES OF TOBA

the next destination was Tele, on the

My goal was to reach Sipisopiso

western side of the lake. It is one of

Waterfall by the end of the day,

the best places to enjoy the beauty

located on the northern edge of Lake

of the Batak highlands before going

Toba. I traversed through unmarked

down to Samosir, located right in

paths and roads less known and

the middle of Lake Toba. There is a

almost missed several turns in the

watch tower where you can go up to

heavy rain. But finally, the lake

the top for a 360-degree panoramic

revealed itself with its bright blue

view of the neighboring green hills,

waters.

waterfalls and some picturesque

After a brief stop to take some

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BALI&BEYOND NOVEMBER 2013

lakeside villages.


BALI&BEYOND NOVEMBER 2013

77


THE FINAL LEG After an hour in Tele, I embarked on the final leg of my journey. Carefully making my way down one of the most spectacular and dangerous roads in all of Sumatra, I reached Pangunguran on the western side of Samosir through an isthmus connecting the island to Tele, proving that Samosir is not an island, contrary to the common belief. time to indulge in its rich culture. I left

culture, and marveling at the

Bataks, I circled tranquil Samosir to

no stone unturned, visiting the Batak

houses, rice fields and the unique

explore the landscape. I decided

villages where people’s lives are still

burial grounds.

to stay there for a bit, giving myself

very much deeply rooted in traditional

Arriving at the home of the Toba

It was a very special experience that I wouldn’t mind repeating, and it’s one that you should definitely try yourself. To end this

NORTH SUMATRA

Tuk-Tuk, on the eastern side of Samosir. Catching a ferry across the lake to Prapat, I reminisced on my journey before my five-hour drive back to Medan.

INDONESIA

By Fadil Aziz

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BALI&BEYOND NOVEMBER 2013

ALL PHOTOS BY FADIL AZIZ

memorable road trip, I drove to


BALI&BEYOND NOVEMBER 2013

79


CAPITALCORNER

STREET

ART

THESE JAKARTA STREET ARTISTS ARE FAR FROM BEING LABELED AS VANDALS, AS PROVEN BY THEIR UNIQUE ARTWORK.

misinterpreted as vandalism. Police

always had an

often can’t differentiate between

instinct to express

the two.

themselves through art, as proven by

As members of the public, we can judge which graffiti and street

paintings by cavemen on cave walls.

art is considered littering and which

These days, people who choose to

are works to be admired. In big

put their art on walls or other public

cities like Bandung and Jakarta,

areas often want to communicate a

many members of the public have

political or social issue to a larger

already accepted street art as

audience. Perhaps the best example

works of art. In Bandung, when

of this is street artist Banksy, a U.K.

you pass through Siliwangi Street,

based graffiti artist famous for his

you can see murals all along the

politically motivated street art.

walls done by the Art and Design

However, the number of vandals

students of ITB (Bandung Institute

or street punks who litter city

of Technology). This street art is

streets, walls and public facilities

much appreciated and has even

with meaningless words definitely

managed to break the record for

outnumbers the artists with a

the longest mural in Indonesia.

message. They often spray paint

In Jakarta, you can see

profanity or their gang’s name,

murals and graffiti flanking

which is why street art is commonly

lots of streets. Some are bad,

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BALI&BEYOND NOVEMBER 2013

ALL COURTESY PHOTOS

H

uman beings have


unfortunately, but some are also

DARBOTZ

good. The good ones convey

Darbotz is one of the founders of

canvas, but he admits that creating

messages to passersby and are awe-

www.tembokbomber.com, one of

art on the streets has its own special

inspiring because they make people

the largest street art and graffiti

appeal. For example, there’s no

wonder how someone could paint

communities in Indonesia. He has

space limit and he derives much

something so sophisticated in such a

a unique style of using only black

inspiration from the cars, pollution,

short amount of time.

and white, done intentionally to

wind and traffic jams. His signature

differentiate his work from some

character is a squid, which

who have emerged to share their

of those that have started to use

represents his alter ego in dealing

thoughts through street art.

street art as a means of commercial

with the big city.

Here are some artists in Jakarta

He also applies this style on

advertising.

Darbotz was one of the judges for Google Openspaces, a project

Jakarta’s traffic as depicted by the artist Darbotz

BALI&BEYOND NOVEMBER 2013

81


This piece and Twitter piece on opposite page by the artist Popo

mixing digital and street art. Even

in various mediums. This band

though Jakarta is congested and can

member of The Adams and White

seem “messed up” at times, Darbotz

Shoes & The Couples Company

still loves the city and expresses

held his first solo exhibition in 2012

this love through his work. The

called “Riwayat Saudagar” (The

piece called “Jakarta’s Monster”

History of Merchants). The exhibition

(a collaboration with artist Tutu) is

was centered on the themes of

a prime example of this, where the

immigration and the amalgamation

monsters represent the Metromini and

of culture and identity. Aside from

buses that crowd Jakarta’s streets.

murals, he also experiments with other mediums such as charcoal on

SALEH HUSEIN As if being a guitarist for two bands

paper and acrylic on canvas. The mural called “Photography:

didn’t keep him busy enough, Saleh

one of the most powerful

Husein also creates visual artworks

weapons (Rethinking the history

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BALI&BEYOND NOVEMBER 2013

PHOTOS COURTESY OF EACH ARTIST

Saleh Husein’s work at Imagerie Gallery


of photography and the city)” is

any superhero characters coming

that initially got him interested in

his collaboration with Kemalreza

out of Indonesia, which is why he

murals. Popo has now been creating

Gibran that is exhibited at Imagerie

has chosen Petruk and Buto as his

murals for about ten years. He

Gallery at the Fairgrounds Jakarta.

signature characters.

has also participated in national

Inspired by Eddie Adams’ photo

Koma also likes Indonesian

and international exhibitions and

that won a Pulitzer, capturing the

wayang characters such as

even held his own solo exhibition

moment where General Nguyen

Rangda, Cakil, and Punakawan.

at Galeri Ruang Rupa in 2010,

Ngoc Loan executed a Viet Cong

Many Indonesian youngsters don’t

winning “The Best Mural Artist”

officer in Saigon, the mural has a

recognize these characters because

at Tembok Bomber Award 2010.

camera in place of the gun from the

perhaps their parents haven’t made

Beside murals, he also experiments

original photo and the city setting is

it a priority to teach them. This is

with paintings, installations and

distorted – an anti-war and anti-

why Koma wants to make them

digital prints.

violence piece.

popular again by mixing them with

By Anne Dewi

“happening” urban culture.

KOMA Ever since he was a kid, the artist

POPO

Koma has collected Petruk comics

This artist’s real name is Ryan Riyadi,

by Tatang S., (famous in the

but people started to call him Popo

80’s) and has always been of the

after the character he invented. This

opinion that local characters from

Popo character is humorous and often

Indonesia can be just as cool as

makes whoever sees it laugh, but his

Dragon Ball characters or any other

murals also contain social criticism.

Western superheroes. These days, he has noticed that there aren’t

It was graffiti near his house made by a mural artist in 2000

BALI&BEYOND NOVEMBER 2013

Vibrant use of color by the artist Koma

83


BEYONDUPDATES

FASHION CAPITAL Last month, Jakarta’s glitziest and most glamorous crowd gathered at Senayan City Mall for the largest fashion event in Southeast Asia. Back for its sixth year, the Jakarta Fashion Week (JFW) was held from October 19 to 25 and featured 240 designers and labels including seven international designers. With 77 fashion shows showcasing 3,000 looks on 350 models, it was an event not to be missed for the capital’s fashionistas. Featured Indonesian designers included Oscar Lawalata, Jeffry Tan, Friedrich Herman, and Tex Saverio, who is known for dressing the likes of Lady Gaga and recently had his ready-to-wear collection shown at Paris Fashion Week.

ALL COURTESY PHOTOS

www.jakartafashionweek.co.id

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BALI&BEYOND NOVEMBER 2013

85


COMMUNITYCALENDAR

CONQUERING NEW GROUND You’re invited to take part in the Bali Highway Half Marathon on November 17, which will be the first running event to be held on the brand new toll road in Nusa Dua. The event will take place at sunset time and will consist of three race categories; a 21 km longdistance half marathon, a 10 km fun run, and the family-friendly Pi fun run/walk (3.14 km with pies at the finish line!). In support of this event, Garuda Indonesia is offering special flight rates to all the participants with 13% and 20% discounts for domestic economy class and international economy class flights respectively. Register now! www.balisporti.weebly.com

DELICATE DRAPERIES For three months, the Bridges Restaurant will hold an exhibition of stunning Indonesian wall hangings and tapestries. The event and enjoy delicious canapés and live music performances. The Bridges Restaurant will donate 20% of the exhibition’s proceeds to John Fawcett Foundation’s Yayasan Kemanusiaan Indonesia, known for providing sight restoration, education and health assistance to youngsters in Bali. Bridges Restaurant, Jalan Raya Campuhan, Ubud (0361) 970-095 www.bridgesbali.com

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ALL COURTESY PHOTOS

will be launched with a party on November 1 from 4 to 8 p.m., where guests are invited to explore as well as to have a drink


BALI&BEYOND NOVEMBER 2013

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SEE&SEEN

TEACH A MAN TO FISH On October 7 the U.S. Secretary of State John Kerry was seen at Benoa Harbor inspecting a ship’s catch with Indonesian Maritime and Fisheries Minister Sharif Cicip Sutardjo and Anova Asia’s program director of fishing and living. The visit was made to enhance U.S. cooperation with Indonesia concerning fisheries.

COASTAL CLEANUP On September 21, members of Anantara Seminyak Resort & Spa, the Bali Hotels Association (BHA), Rotary Club Seminyak, local schools and the media got together to clean Seminyak Beach. As part of the Ocean Conservancy’s International Coastal Cleanup campaign, the group covered a distance of 2 km and collected over 142.6 kg of trash. www.bali.anantara.com

LEAN & GREEN The South Kuta Beach Business Association (SKBBA) in conjunction with American Express/Bank Danamon launched a “Be Clean, Green and Lean” program in September. In total, 67 bikes were distributed to SKBBA member hotels and are available to guests for free use as part of their “All the Fun Under the Sun” program for 2013/14. www.southkutabali.com

TRICKS OF THE TRADE On October 11 members of the Young Chefs Club Indonesia (YCCI) Bali Chapter visited Bambu Restaurant for a Thai cooking workshop led by Chef Sitanan Ladsa-Nga. The guest chef was visiting from Banyan Tree Koh Samui as part of the “Thai Delights” promotion that took place from October 4 - 11 at the Banyan Tree Ungasan. www.banyantree.com

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ALL COURTESY PHOTOS

CONSULS DO LUNCH Bene Italian Restaurant at the Sheraton Bali Kuta Resort welcomed 21 consuls for a postAPEC Consulate Luncheon on October 10. Executive Chef Rossano prepared a 5-course Rome-inspired Italian menu with a touch of home style. This event was organized by the Sheraton Bali Kuta and Beachwalk. www.beachwalkbali.com


BALI&BEYOND NOVEMBER 2013

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SEE&SEEN

FILM FEST The 7th annual BALINALE International Film Festival saw the likes of Raditya Dika, Happy Salma, Rima Melati, Didi Petet, festival co-founder Christine Hakim and the Minister of Tourism and Creative Economy Mari Elka Pangestu in attendance. Visiting filmmakers included Donna Smith, Michael Altman, Jan Chapman, Emmanuel Palo, Jong Pil Lee and Ryu Hyun-Kyung, amongst others. The festival was held from October 4 - 10 and saw an increase in young audience members this year. www.balinale.com

FUN RUN On September 21 over 750 runners participated in the Sheraton 3K Kuta Beach Fun Run. The runners gathered bright and early at 6:30 a.m., then ran along Kuta beach and raised over US$ 11,000 for the UNICEF Check Out for Children Challenge. After the race they were invited to savor Kuta’s longest pizza (over 100 meters), prepared by the Sheraton Bali Kuta’s culinary team. www.sheratonbalikuta.com

HOT POCKET October 14 marked the official grand opening of the Harper Kuta Hotel. The hotel is quickly growing in popularity and enjoyed high occupancy levels during its soft opening. Strategically located just a stone’s throw away from Kuta’s hottest clubs, it’s still able to offer a quiet atmosphere by being set back from Jalan Raya Legian. www.harperhotels.com

ORANGE YOU GLAD

TRENDY TREATS A stylish crowd amassed at the Sentosa Seminyak Resort on September 21 for the grand opening of Salt tapas Bali. VIP attendees enjoyed delicious canapés and tapas from Chef Luke Mangan, together with cocktails, champagne, DJ sets and a 30-minute fashion parade set atop the pool. The festive opening was in conjunction with the launch of Design-Dope. www.salttapasbali.com 90

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ALL COURTESY PHOTOS

Guests came dressed in black and orange but walk-ins were more than welcome to enjoy the fun atmosphere at the Alibi Bar on October 5. Held in conjunction with Jagermeister, partygoers enjoyed fruity Jager cocktails and shots infused with nutty aromas. The dance floor was packed late into the night. www.upaashaseminyak.com


Maxi Hotel & Spa The Maxi Hotel & Spa is situated in the heart of Bali’s shopping and nightlife district. Centrally located, the property offers an ideal base for visitors wishing to explore Bali while keeping all the island’s best shops, bars, restaurants and beaches within easy walking distance. Hotel facilities and services include restaurant, bar, meeting room, massage and spa, room service, swimming pool with Jacuzzi, children’s pool, laundry and dry cleaning service, airport pickup and transfer, snack bar, tour desk, doctor on call, free car park, baby sitter upon request, broadband internet connection, major credit cards accepted, individually controlled air-conditioning, local and IDD telephone, satellite TV, daily mineral water, private bathroom with bathtub and shower, mini bar, personal electronic safe deposit, tea & coffee maker. The balcony overlooking the swimming pool and landscaped tropical garden offers a private area for relaxing. The hotel is less than 15 minutes from Ngurah Rai International Airport; 20 minutes drive to Denpasar, 30 minutes from Sanur, Nusa Dua and within 45 minutes drive to the artistic centre of Ubud and about 350 meters from Bali’s famous Kuta Beach.

Jl. Legian 83A, Legian Tel: (0361) 754-082 Fax: (0361) 750-792 E-mail: info@maxi-hotel.com Website: www.maxi-hotel.com

BALI&BEYOND NOVEMBER 2013

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Negara

JEMBRANA

Medewi

West Bali National Park

Pemuteran

Menjangan Island

Gilimanuk

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M

Nusa Dua

Candi Dasa

Nusa Lembongan Island

Semarapura

Nusa Penida Island

Nusa Ceningan Island

Tanjung Benoa

Sanur

Tenganan

Amlapura

Amed

Tulamben M. Agung

KARANGASEM

Besakih

Lake Batur

KLUNGKUNG GIANYAR

DENPASAR

Taman Ayun

BADUNG

Ubud

Bangli

BANGLI

M. Batur Kintamani Bedugul

Kerobokan Seminyak Legian NGURAH RAI Kuta Tuban INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT Jimbaran Uluwatu

Canggu

Tanah Lot

Tabanan

TABANAN

M. Batukaru

Laker Buyan Lake Tamblingan Lake Bratan

BULELENG

Lovina

Singaraja


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Gado Gado

R

The Oberoi

Jl. Mertasari

uk

H

ra

C

H

Mercure

Rosso Vivo

C

Kuta Sea View

Road

W

H

Kuta Square

R

Gabah

Jl. Tegal Wangi

Kuta Center

Kuta beach

S

S

N

KUTA

Jl. Nakula

Jl. Plawa

Hard Rock Starbucks Jl. Pantai Kuta

H R

nset

Jl. kunti I

Jl. Su

Jl. Tangkuban Perahu

H Istana rama Beachwalk H Harris

Jl. Melasti

Legian Beach

H

Jl. Pa

dma

Amaris Legian

kuda Jl. Wer

Jl. Arjuna

Jl. Camplung Tand

Jl. Laksamana

Jl. Raya Kerobokan

LEGEND: + Medical C Cafe H Hotel M Market H S M Museum Kartika Plaza Shopping S S R Restaurant Discovery Shopping Mall V Villa CD Corps Diplomatique

H

H

The Seminyak

W Hotel

H

ix

le S

Jl. Petitenget

Jemme Cafe

ra

a Uta

adm

Jl. P

oub

Jl. D

Jl. Raya Basangkasa

Jl. Raya Seminyak

C

i Kuta

Panta

aya

Danoya

a

dew

aha

Jl. S

Jl. Mertanadi

ian

Jl. Leg

V

S

n Da

au

Be

Tuah

ra

ta

S

N

Mercure

E

H

H

H

Puri Santrian

H

R

Jl. Sindu

C

Sindu Beach

CD

Bali Hyatt

C

Batu Jimbar

The Village

LEGEND: + Medical C Cafe H Hotel M Market M Museum S Shopping R Restaurant CD Corps Diplomatique

H

H

H

Sector

Sweden & Finland Consulate

Telaga Naga

French Consulate

Sanur Paradise Plaza Suite

M Le Mayeur

Inna Grand Bali Beach

Jl. Segara Ayu

Sanur Paradise Plaza

Tuah Jl. Hang

H

CD

H

Czech Rep. Consulate

Jl. Danau Poso

Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai

W

CD

Jl. Danau Buyan

Jl. Tegeh Agung

n

SANUR

Jl. Tukad Bilok

Jl.

Jl. Hang

CD Italy Consulate

Sanur Beach

Bali Galleria

S

Jl. kunti II

Istana Kuta Galleria

E

apahit Jl. Maj

Kuta aya Jl. R

Jl. R

za

aP la

rtik

Ka

Jl.

an

Jl. Raya Tub

i

Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai

i

Jl.

S

anta

3

latan

E

H

Grand Nikko Bali Resort & Spa

H

nta

H

Pa

gia

t

H

en

+

H

Ayodya Resort bali

iM

+

+

S

R R +

S

Art Market

Medical Center

SAKALA

Tao Bali

Melia Bali

The Laguna

The Bay

LEGEND: + Medical C Cafe H Hotel M Market M Museum S Shopping R Restaurant CD Corps Diplomatique

Grand Hyatt Bali

R

Museum PasiďŹ ka

H

H

Bali Collection

M

Nusa Dua Beach Westin Resort

H H

H

Club Med Bali Kayumanis Nusa Dua

H

Art Market

S

H

Melia Benoa

The Royal Santrian

Conrad Bali

H

H

H

The Oasis

Aston Bali Resort

Grand Mirage

H Novotel Bali Benoa H The Bali Khama

Ina Putri Bali

Village Market

Clinic

uda

M iray

The St. Regis Bali Resort

Jl.

Jl. W

Medical Center

Dental Clinic

Clinic

H H

H

H

Fish Market

Ramada Benoa

The Mulia, Mulia Resort & Villas

+

Jl. Pratama Raya

ai

a Se Nusa Du

Amanusa

H

inge

Tragia

S

i Pem

The Bale

H

Jl. P

Jl. Kurusetra

W

N

NUSA DUA

M

Jl. Pratama

Jl. Batubelig

J

Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai

h Ra gura ss N l. By pa

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sar

Jl. Danau Tamblingan

ra

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BALI&BEYOND NOVEMBER 2013

as Jl. Srikandi

et Road

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ma

Jl. Suns

Jl. P

Jl. p By


BALI&BEYOND NOVEMBER 2013

95


Bumbak

Canggu River

Pantai Brawa

Raya Semer Peng

uben

gan

KUWUM

ka

n

Perancak Temple

SEMER

Subaksari

Canggu SurďŹ ng

~~ ~~ ~~ ~~

To Denpasar

yan

TIBUBENENG

er

Nela

BUMBAK

wa

em

Pantai Bra

aS

~~ ~~ ~~ ~~ Canggu Beach

International Community School

To Kerobokan

Ray

CANGGU

Ke

lec

un

g

Jl.

~~ ~~ ~~ ~~

Brawa Beach

Ra

ya

Ke

ro

bo

Dukun Indah

BRAWA

UMALAS

Batub

Batubelig

elig

Gunung Tangkuban Perah

Batubelig

BATUBELIG

KEROBOKAN

H

Villa Lumbung

nget Petite

ri Mertasa

et

Bali Clinic Laksam

a

i

ana

Drupadi

SEMINYAK

aya

Bida

Su

kasa

Ay

H

yu

The Legian

Jl. R

+

Ka

S

T Petitenget Temple Petiteng

Obero

E

Basang

LEGEND: + Medical T Tourism Spot H Hotel/Resort M Market M Museum S Shopping R Restaurant

Jl. Raya Kerobokan

N W

R

H

W Bali

KEROBOKAN CANGGU

Warisan Australian International School

Mertanadi

~~ ~~ ~~ ~~

Batubelig Beach

u

State Prison of Kerobokan

ns

UBUD

To Kintamani

M Neka Museum

N

Jl. Sandat

W

an

Jl. Campuhan

To Payangan

KEDEWATAN

Jl. Andong

g ajen

M

Market

M

Cok Putra S wah

Rai ede ok G

T

Pusering Jagad Tample

Jl. C

Jl. IB

Manik

R

Lamak

H

Maya Ubud Resort

iwa

Forest

Medical

nkey

+

Jl. Jemba

+

Jl. Mo

LEGEND: + Medical T Tourism Spot H Hotel/Resort M Market M Museum S Shopping R Restaurant

Medical

Jl. Dewi Sita

SAYAN

Ganding

Ubud Palace

d

Jl. Jero

Ubu

Jl. Sugr

PENESTANAN

aya

Jl. Sand

Jl. R

M Antonio Blanco Museum

man

H

ANDONG

at

Painting Museum

Kayu Manis

TAMAN

Jl. Hano

Ay

un

g

CAMPUHAN

E S

Jl. Su

H Four Season

Jl. K

Riv

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weta

Jl. Tirta Tam

UBUD

T

Penataran Sasih Tample

T

Keboedan Tample

Monkey Forest

T

To Denpasar

Jl. Nyuh bulan

PELIATAN

KATIK LANTANG

NYUH KUNING

M Afchaeological Museum

BEDULU

T

Elephant Cave

96

Rudana BALI&BEYOND 2013 M NOVEMBERTEGES Museum

PANGOSEKAN

To Denpasar

To Kemenuh

TENGKULAK

To Gianyar

et

dari

Ro

ad


BALI&BEYOND NOVEMBER 2013

97


INFOINDEX AIRLINES

Tel: (0361) 286-465, Fax: (0361) 286-408 E-mail: bali@honorary.mzv.cz

Renon, Denpasar Fax: (0361) 263-310 E-mail: rtc_bali@thaimail.com

■ AIRPORT OPERATOR Tel: (0361) 751-011

■ FRANCE

■ TIMOR LESTE

■ CATHAY PACIFIC AIRWAYS

Jl. Mertasari Gg. II No. 8, Sanur Tel: (0361) 285-485, Fax: (0361) 286-406 E-mail: consul@dps.centrin.net.id

Jl. Prof. Yamin No. 4, Renon, Denpsar Tel: (0361) 235-093, Fax: (0361) 235-092 E-mail: cgtl@dpsbali.com

■ GERMANY

■ UNITED STATES

Tel: (0361) 768-358, Fax: (0361) 768-369

Jl. Pantai Karang 17, Batujimbar, Sanur Tel: (0361) 288-535, Fax: (0361) 288-826 Email: germanconsul@bali-ntb.com

Jl. Hayam Wuruk 188, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 233-605, Fax: (0361) 222-426 E-mail: amcobali@indosat.net.id

■ ROYAL BRUNEI

■ HUNGARY

Tel: (0361) 757-292

Marintur, Jl. By Pass Ngurah Rai 219, Sanur. Tel: (0361) 287-701, Fax: (0361) 287-456 Email: huconbali@telkom.net

Wisthi Sabha Building, 2nd Floor Ngurah Rai International Aiprort Call Centre: 0804-1-888888

■ CONTINENTAL MICRONESIA

■ SINGAPORE AIRLINES Jl. I Gusti Ngurah Rai, Airport Tel: (0361) 936-8388, Fax: (0361) 936-8383

HEALTH&MEDICAL

■ INDIA

■ GARUDA Jl. Jalan Sugianyar, 5 Denpasar

Jl. Raya Puputan 163, Renon - Denpasar Tel. (0361) 259-502/259-503 Fax.(0361) 259-505

Tel. (0361) 227-824, Fax: (0361) 226-298 24-hour access: 08071-807-807

■ ITALY

■ MERPATI Jl. Gatot Subroto Tengah, 26 Denpasar Tel: (0361) 411-364 Airport Tel: (0361) 9351-011, ext. 5240/5242 Hotline: Tel: (0361) 722-740, 722-741

■ MANDALA AIRLINES Komp. Plaza Kertawijaya Jl. Diponogoro No. 98, Denpasar, Reservation Call center 08041234567

Lotus Enterprises Building Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai, Jimbaran Tel: (0361) 701-005, Fax: (0361) 701-005 E-mail: italconsbali @italconsbali.org

■ JAPAN Jl. Raya Puputan 170, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 227-628, Fax: (0361) 265-066 E-mail: denpasar@dp.mofa.go.jp

■ MALAYSIA

Tel/Fax: (0361) 759-761

Alam Kulkul Boutique Resort Jl. Pantai Kuta Tel: (0361) 752-520, Fax: (0361) 766-373 E-mail: info@consulmalaysia-bali.com

■ THAI INTERNATIONAL

■ MEXICO

Grand Bali Beach Sanur, Tel: (0361) 288-141

PT Puri Astina Putra Building Jl. Prof. Moh. Yamin 1A, Renon, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 223-266, Fax: (0361) 244-568 E-mail: consulmex@astinatravel.com

■ NGURAH RAI AIRPORT

■ QATAR AIRWAYS Discovery Kartika Plaza Hotel, South Kuta Beach Tel: (0361) 752-222; Fax: 753-788 Wisti Sabha Building, 2nd Floor, Ngurah Rai International Aiprort, Tel: (0361) 760-274 Fax: (0361) 760-275

■ NETHERLANDS

■ ROYAL DANISH Sunset Road No. 89 Ruko Sunset Indah I Kav. 3 Tel: (0361) 821-6979, Fax: (0361) 7666-38 E-mail: danishconsbali@gmail.com

CLINIC&HOSPITAL 24-hour emergency medical clinic services, medical evacuation, multilingual staff. Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai 505X, Kuta 80361 Tel: (0361) 710-505, Fax: (0361) 710-515

■ SPAIN

■ BIMC Hospital Nusa Dua

Jl. Tirta Nadi 20, Sanur, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 270-601, Fax: (0361) 287-804 E-mail: bcbali@dps.centrin.net.id

Istana Kuta Galeria, Blok Vallet 2, No. 11 Jl. Patih Jelantik, Kuta Tel: (0361) 769-296, Fax: (0361) 769-296 E-mail: espana_bali@blueline.net.id

■ BRAZIL

■ SWEDEN & FINLAND

Jl. Raya Legian No. 186, Kuta Tel: (0361) 757-775, Fax: (0361) 751-005 E–mail: brazilconsul@bali.net

Segara Village Hotel, Jl. Segara Ayu Tel: (0361) 282-211, Fax: 282-211 E-mail: sweconsul@yahoo.com

24h Accident and Emergency Centre, 24h Medical Centre, international standard hospital with fully equipped ambulances, emergency room, intensive care unit, operating theatres, radiology and pathology, ward rooms, international and multilingual team of medical experts, CosMedic Centre, Dialysis Centre, Dental Centre. Kawasan BTDC, Blok D, Nusa Dua 80363, Tel: (0361) 3000-911, Fax: (0361) 3001-150

■ CHILE

■ SWITZERLAND & AUSTRIA

Jl. Jl. Pengembak Gg 1 No. 3, Sanur, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 756-781, Fax: (0361) 756-783 E-mail: chilehonconsulate@bali-villa.com ■ CZECH REPUBLIC Jl. Pengembak 17 Sanur.

Istana Kuta Galeria Blok Valet 2 No 12, Kuta Tel: (0361) 751-735, Fax: (0361) 754-457 E-mail: bali@honorarvertretung.ch

■ BRITAIN

(ARMA) Ubud, Tel: (0361) 976-659, Fax: 974-229. Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud, open daily 8 am-6pm

■ ABIAN KAPAS Jl. Nusa Indah, East Denpasar Tel: (0361) 227-176

■ ANTONIO BLANCO Ubud , Tel: (0361) 975-502, 975-551 open daily 8 am-5 pm

■ ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM Pejeng, Tel: (0361) 942-352 Open 8 am - 3 pm weekdays

■ GEDONG KIRTYA HISTORICAL LIBRARY Tel: (0362) 25141, Jl. Veteran, Singaraja. Open 7am - 3pm Monday Thursday, until Fridaynoon, closed on weekends

■ GALLERY SENIWATI Jl. Ubud Raya, Gianyar. Tel: (0361) 975-485

■ MUSEUM BALI Tel: (0361) 235-059, 222-680, Jl. Let. Kol Wisnu, Denpasar

■ MUSEUM LE MAYEUR Tel: (0361) 286-164, Jl. Hang Tuah, Sanur. Open 8 am - 2 pm, Tuesday - Sunday.

■ MUSEUM MANUSA YADNYA Mengwi, open daily, but often unattended

■ MUSEUM NEKA Tel: (0361) 975-074, 975-034, Jl. Raya Campuan, Ubud open daily 9 am - 5 pm.

Tel: (0361) 975-136, 971-159, Jl. Raya Ubud, Ubud, www.mpl-ubud.com

■ MUSEUM RUDANA Tel: (0361) 975-779, 976-479, Peliatan, Ubud

■ MUSEUM SUBAK Tel: (0361) 810-315, Jl. Raya Kediri, Desa Sanggulan, Tabanan

■ BIMC Hospital Kuta ■ POLAND

Jl.Gunung Agung 93, Denpasar 80118 Tel: (0361) 426-171, Fax: (0361) 426-477 E-mail: konsulslowakbali@yahoo.com

■ AUSTRALIA, CANADA, NEW ZEALAND Jl. Tantular No. 32, Renon - Denpasar 80234 Tel: (0361) 241-118, Fax: (0361) 221-195 E-mail: bali.congen@dfat.gov.au www.bali.indonesia.embassy.gov.au

■ AGUNG RAI MUSEUM OF ART

■ INTERNATIONAL SOS CLINIC

24h Accident and Emergency Centre, 24h Medical Centre, international standard hospital with fully equipped ambulances, emergency room, intensive care unit, operating theatres, radiology and pathology, ward rooms, international and multilingual team of medical experts, CosMedic Centre for non-invasive and invasive cosmetic and aesthetic treatments. Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai 100X, Kuta 80361 Tel: (0361) 761-263, Fax: (0361) 767-701

CONSULATES

MUSEUMS

■ MUSEUM PURI LUKISAN

KCB Travel, Jl. Raya Kuta 127, Kuta Tel: (0361) 761-502, Fax: (0361) 752-777 E-mail: dutchconsulate@kcb-tours.com

■ DEPARTURE Arrive at the airport two hours prior to departure. A Rp. 150,000 international departure tax is required. Domestic departure fee is Rp 40,000. No Fiscal tax-exempt to pay for Indonesian and expatriates holding KITAS for International departure. Ngurah Rai Intíl Airport, Tel: (0361) 751-011

Call an ambulance by dialing 118, but it is a lot more practical and quicker to hire a taxi. Most hotels have on-call doctors on standby. For “Bali Belly”, Lomotil and Imodium eliminate symptoms, but not gastro-related infections. A fever along with symptoms requires doctor-prescribed antibiotics. Drink as much liquid as possible. Isotonic drinks under various brand names are widely available and are known to replenish body hydration and replace fluids. For discomfort, diarrhea and cramping, drink strong, hot tea; avoid fruits and spicy foods. Some day-biting mosquitoes carry dengue fever, but this is not a problem in tourist areas. Bali is non-malarial and prophylaxis is not required. Mosquito bites, cuts or abrasions easily become infected in the tropics. Treat them immediately. Drink only bottled or boiled water. Peel fruit before eating; avoid raw vegetables except at reputable restaurants. Ice in restaurants is safe. Protect yourself from the intense equatorial sun. Use high SPF sunblock and a hat. AIDS and sexually transmitted diseases are increasing in Indonesia. Local sex workers have multiple partners from around the world. They are not checked for sexually transmitted diseases. Act responsibly and use condoms, available over the counter at pharmacies.

■ RUMAH SAKIT UMUM PUSAT SANGLAH (General Hospital): Jl. Diponegoro, Sanglah, Denpasar. Tel: (0361) 227-911/15

Jl. Raya Petitenget No. 11, Block I/C, Banjar Umasari, Kerobokan Tel: (0361) 732-165, Fax: (0361) 732-165 E-mail: consul@balipolandconsulate.com

■ SLOVAKIA

TOURIST INFO. ■ INTEGRATED TOURISM INFORMATION CENTER (ITIC) A one-stop tourist information complex of ten provinces in Indonesia comprising Bali, Lampung, Jakarta, Banten, West Java, Central Java, East Java, Jogjakarta. Jl. Raya Kuta 2, Kuta, 80361; Tel: (0361) 766-188

■ NGURAH RAI INTERNATIONAL

■ THAILAND Jl. Puputan Raya No. 81,

98

■ SILOAM HOSPITALS 24-hour emergency 779-911 Jl. Sunset Road No. 818, Kuta, Badung, Bali Tel: +62-361-779-900 E-mail: info.bali@siloamhospitals.com

BALI&BEYOND NOVEMBER 2013

AIRPORT Tel: (0361) 751-011

■ BADUNG GOVERNMENT TOURISM OFFICE Jl. Kuta Raya 2, Kuta Tel: (0361) 756-175/76 ■ BALI GOVERNMENT TOURISM OFFICE Jl. Supratman, Niti Mandala, Renon, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 222-387 ■ SINGARAJA TOURIST INFORMATION OFFICE Jl. Veteran 23, Singaraja Tel: (0362) 251-41

■ UBUD TOURIST INFORMATION SERVICE Jl. Raya Ubud, Gianyar Tel: (0361) 96-285, 973-285; 8 am - 9 pm


BALI&BEYOND NOVEMBER 2013

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BALI&BEYOND NOVEMBER 2013


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