EXPLORE LEMBONGAN THE ALLURING LITTLE ISLAND AN OFF THE COAST OF BALI
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TEAMTALK
ARTISTS’ HAVEN ‘Om Swastiastu...’ Bali is a gorgeous island that is brimming with talented artists. Whether it’s wood carvers, painters, musicians, dancers or photographers, we’ve encountered many artistically gifted people here and continue to be blown away by them on a daily basis. Whether they are Balinese or hail from beyond Bali and have been drawn in by the island’s allure, there’s no denying that they collectively capture and create countless magical moments. Throughout the past year we have regularly featured articles on traditional Balinese dance, so in this edition we chose to focus more on paintings and photography. Check out LIFESTYLE & LEISURE to see our round up of noteworthy art spaces and museums in Bali, and turn to PROFILE & PORTRAIT to read our interview with artist Arin Sunaryo (the young Indonesian artist has works hanging in the Guggenheim New York). Also don’t forget to check out our coverage on a handful of Jakarta’s famous street artists in CAPITAL CORNER. Additionally, we share with you our visit to Seniman Coffee in Ubud, a coffee studio with eye-catching furniture and glassware that they’ve designed themselves from recycled items. These talented folks have been instrumental to the creation of the first Ubud Public Arts Festival – find our snapshots from the event in this month’s SIGHTS & SOUNDS. We realize that our coverage only skims the surface of what’s available on the island, but we hope it helps to whet your appetite and encourages you to explore and get involved with the local arts scene yourself. Have fun and keep creating, readers! ‘Om Shanti Shanti Shanti Om…’ The Team
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CONTRIBUTORS
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5 1 Bayu Rahanatha is a lecturer at Udayana University and a Marketing Communications specialist. He also has his own business in tourism but still finds time to continue his writing hobby. 2 Anggara Mahendra is a Balinese photographer based in Denpasar. He is currently working on personal documentary projects related to cultural, social and environmental issues.
3 Paul V. Walters is the best selling author of two novels, Final Diagnosis and Blowback. The third in this trilogy, Counterpoint, is due for release in November 2013. 4 Fadil Aziz is a travel photographer whose main passion is capturing the archipelago’s beauty. www.alcibbum-photography.com 5 Anne Dewi is a writer based in Jakarta who loves traveling and trying out new places to eat in Indonesia’s capital.
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BALI & BEYOND General Manager
GOESTAMAR ARDIBRATA goestamar@baliandbeyond.co.id
Senior Editor
MUTIA ARINI ADISOMA mutia@baliandbeyond.co.id
Editor
ARIKO AHMAD ariko@baliandbeyond.co.id
Editorial Advisors Graphic Advisor
A.A. GEDE RAI, JOHN M. DANIELS WENIAR PRAMESTI
Graphic Designer
PUTU PARTAJAYA putu@baliandbeyond.co.id
Web & Graphic Designer
MELIYANA SANTOSO meli@baliandbeyond.co.id
Advertising & MarComm. Manager
D. ARIEF SENOAJI arief@baliandbeyond.co.id
Advertising Sales Executive
NOVENTY ARIANI venty@baliandbeyond.co.id MEE WAURAN mee@baliandbeyond.co.id
F&A Supervisor Accounting Staff GA & Personnel Adm Distribution
A.A. KETUT SUKERTI agung@baliandbeyond.co.id I GUSTI AYU MADE RINA ADIARI rina@baliandbeyond.co.id I GEDE ADARA adara@baliandbeyond.co.id NYOMAN TRI HARIAN SAPUTRA nyoman@baliandbeyond.co.id
Contributors ANGGARA MAHENDRA, PAUL V. WALTERS, FADIL AZIZ TIM HAIN, YOGA RAHARJA, ANNE DEWI, BAYU RAHANATHA
Jakarta Marketing Services/Subscription RISKA WAHYUNINGSIH riska.wahyuningsih@baliandbeyond.co.id Tel: (021) 398 36061 (Ext. 224) Publisher PT. BUMI DIAN KUSUMA Commissioner SOETIKNO SOEDARJO Director MAULANA INDRAGUNA SUTOWO Division Head MRA Printed Media INDRIATI WIRJANTO Printing PT. SUBURMITRA GRAFISTAMA, JAKARTA OFFICE Bali White House - Jl. Dewi Sri No. 23 Block IV, Kuta 80361- Bali Tel: +62 361 8868601-2, Fax: +62 361 750075 E-mail:mag@baliandbeyond.co.id http://www.baliandbeyond.co.id
Bali & Beyond Magazine is published monthly by PT. Bumi Dian Kusuma under the direction of MRA Media, Jakarta. Although every care is taken, neither the publishers nor any of their designees assume responsibility for the opinions and information expressed by editorial contributors. All material in this publication is copyrighted and cannot be reproduced without written permission of the publisher or author. All trademark and rights to Bali & Beyond are reserved by PT Bumi Dian Kusuma. Editorial materials may be submitted for consideration to the editorial office. Bali & Beyond is not responsible for the return of unsolicited material. © 2006 Bali & Beyond ISSN 0216-4590
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BALI&BEYOND NOVEMBER 2013
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THE SUN... THE SAND... THE SURF... THE CULTURE OF PARADISE AND OVER 18,000 SURROUNDING ISLANDS
contents 11.13 NOVEMBER 2013 Volume 15 No. 162
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INVITE&INDULGE GET IN TUNE
WELCOME TO BALI by Yoga Raharja
This blissful spa treatment at Ayana Resort will help you realign your chakras
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SIGHTS&SOUNDS
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PHOTOS & FUN FACTS
We take a look at the making of Uluwatu’s beautiful handmade Balinese lace
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REST&RELAXATION
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VILLAGE HIDEAWAY
LIFESTYLE&LEISURE LET’S GET ARTSY
Relax at Kampung Cenik, a tucked away haven in the middle of busy South Bali
A roundup of museums and art spaces that you should visit on the island
84 BEYONDUPDATES News updates from the tourism industry and what’s new beyond Bali
EASTERN OPULENCE A visit to Edogin Japanese Restaurant during their Teppanyaki buffet night
86 COMMUNITYCALENDAR
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An interview with artist Arin D. Sunaryo, whose artwork is displayed at the Guggenheim New York
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PONDERINGPOINT THE NEXT GENERATION Thoughts on raising kids these days and how the arts often get a back seat
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FOTOFOLIO THROUGH THE LENSE
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Hot deals and promotions of the month that shouldn’t be missed
This month’s select news updates from the island’s tourism industry and what’s new around the island
DINE&DELIGHTS
THE LATEST EXPORT
22 PRIMEPROMOTION
26 NEW&NEWS
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PROFILE&PORTRAIT
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Scenes from Bali captured by Yoga Raharja, a Bali-based award-winning 16 BALI&BEYOND NOVEMBER 2013 photograher
Schedules, calendar highlights and various happenings of interest, from art exhibitions to special events
88 SEE&SEEN Snapshots of events and happenings within the preceding month
92 BALIMAPS Map of Bali showing specific tourism areas and places of interest, as well as a distance scale between the island’s main destinations
98 INFOINDEX Useful directory of companies and island-based businesses
FIRST COLUMN PHOTO COURTESY OF EDOGIN JAPANESE RESTAURANT AT MULIA BALI SECOND COLUMN BY YOGA RAHARJA, THIRD COLUMN COURTESY OF JAKARTA HASHION WEEK 2013
PARADISE LACE
A special compilation of fun facts and quirky finds from September and October
CRAFT&CULTURE
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contents 11.13 NOVEMBER 2013 Volume 15 No. 162
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LITTLELOVES
COFFEE ART
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OFF TO LAKE TOBA Road tripping from North Sumatra’s capital to Indonesia’s largest lake
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ACTION&ATTRACTION LURE OF LEMBONGAN Nusa Lembongan island has lots of adventures in store for you!
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CAPITALCORNER STREET ART Read about some of Jakarta’s top street artists and the messages behind their works 18
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TOP PHOTO BY FADIL AZIS, BOTTOM PHOTO BY TIM HAIN
There’s a different kind of coffee scene brewing at Seniman Coffee Studio in Ubud
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PRIMEPROMOTION
ICY TREAT Cool yourself down with Mulia’s Shaved Ice after spending a day under the hot tropical sun. Available in a range of irresistible flavors like mango, lemon, milk tea and coffee, and topped with generous amounts of fresh fruit, jellies and rich syrups, it’s a refreshing way to complete a blissful day in paradise. The Mulia, Mulia Resort & Villas Jalan Raya Nusa Dua Selatan, Nusa Dua (0361) 301-7777 www.themulia.com
HOLIDAY SPIRIT Bring your loved ones to Jemme Dining for a traditional Christmas experience this coming holiday season. Savor their delicious Christmas set menu that includes roast turkey, blue cheese and warm steak winter salad, Christmas pudding, mulled wine and homemade mince pies, while being entertained by Christmas carol singers. There will also be an appearance by the jolly man in red himself! This dinner offer runs from December 24 - 26 for Rp. 650,000++ per person. There will be just three sittings per day so reserve your spot now! Jemme Dining Jalan Petitenget, Seminyak
CARNIVOROUS BEER LOVERS
(0361) 473-2392 www.jemmebali.com
Experience the first ever beer and meat festival at Le Méridien Bali Jimbaran, named ‘Beergasm Bali’. This four-day event is taking place each Saturday from October 19 to November 9 at the Smoqee Sky Bar. For Rp. 149,000 net per person you can enjoy two hours of free flow specially infused Bintang Beer, live bands and DJs. For an additional Rp. 249,000 net per person you’ll get to indulge in the all-you-can-eat barbecue that includes ribs, rotisserie duck, sausage, There will also be over 20 beer labels to try – a beer aficionado’s dream come true. Don’t miss out! Le Méridien Bali Jimbaran Jalan Bukit Permai, Jimbaran (0361) 846-6888 www.lemeridien.com
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ALL COURTESY PHOTOS
chicken chili wings and BBQ lamb shoulder, just to name a few.
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PRIMEPROMOTION
NEW KID ON THE BAY The Hai Bar & Grill is a brand new beachfront bar and restaurant that has just opened on the soft white sands of Mushroom Bay in Nusa Lembongan. It offers a diverse menu of fresh local seafood, international dishes and wood fire pizzas in an airy and relaxing space with a stunning view of the bay. Open every day, their Happy Hour runs from 5 to 7 p.m. on weekdays. They even offer free pick up service! Hai Bar & Grill Mushroom Beach, Nusa Lembongan
NATURAL BEAUTY
(0366) 559-6415
PURE Skin and Body Care beauty products from A.W. Lake Spa are now available at Rob Peetoom Hair Spa Bali. This skin care range is made with natural ingredients, is easy to use and is highly effective, combining PURE BASICS and SUPERCHARGED SERUMS containing bioactive ingredients to target specific skin concerns. Try these products out with a 90-minute Soothing and Rehydrating Facial at Rob Peetom; you’ll love the friendly staff there and the breezy, open-air spa atmosphere. Rob Peetoom Hair Spa Bali, Jalan Petitenget No. 16, Seminyak (0361) 738-363, www.robpeetoom.nl
KITCHEN MASTER Sharpen your cooking skills this month by taking a cooking class at Bali Niksoma Resort. Under the guidance of Chef Sumada you’ll learn how to prepare delectable dishes such as boiled sticky rice dumplings, young papaya salad, and grilled fish with Balinese spices. With a view of the sparkling waves at Legian Beach, it’s a great way to spend an afternoon! The program costs Rp. 195,000 net per person (includes a certificate and recipes to take home) and ALL COURTESY PHOTOS
is available until the end of this year. Please book two days in advance. Bali Niksoma Boutique Beach Resort Jalan Padma Utara, Legian (0361) 751-947 www.baliniksoma.com
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NEW&NEWS
CREATIVE SOLUTIONS Bali Turtle Island has been selected as the Southeast Asia regional hub for the Sustainable Development Solutions Network (SDSN), a global initiative of the United Nations. The SDSN aims to unlock solutions to sustainable development challenges faced around the world through global networking, crowd sourcing, and open-source problem solving. It is engaged in creating a system of think tanks, universities, NGOs and cutting edge businesses that will work with governments to take on complicated challenges. Launched by President Susilo Bambang Yudhoyono on October 6 during APEC 2013, the hub will be located at the United in Diversity Creative Campus. www.unsdsn.org www.unitedindiversity.org
SPREADING AWARENESS On October 18, Bali Pink Ribbon opened the first-ever breast cancer support center in Indonesia. Educational pamphlets in English and Bahasa Indonesia are available at the center and monthly seminars on early breast cancer detection will take place there as well. Currently there is a photographic exhibition on the second floor that shows the emotional journey of women around Indonesia who have been battling breast cancer. The center’s opening was supported by the British Ambassador to Indonesia, Mark Canning. Pink Ribbon House Jalan Dewi Sri IV No. 1, Kuta (0361) 835-2299 www.balipinkribbon.com
WINE LOVERS The Seminyak Beach Resort & Spa has launched a new wine shop called The Cellar, which offers over 150 fine wines and champagnes from around the world in an exquisitely designed space. The Cellar is resort and is open daily to both in-house and outside guests from 11 a.m. to 10:30 p.m. The Seminyak Beach Resort & Spa Jalan Kayu Aya, Seminyak (0361) 730-814 www.theseminyak.com
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ALL COURTESY PHOTOS
located within the lobby area of the beachfront
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NEW&NEWS
BLIND TESTS The Balinese premium whisky Drum Green Label has recently won a Bronze Award at the 2013 International Wine & Spirit Competition (IWSC). IWSC is considered to be the most prestigious competition of its kind in the world, where the products are tasted blind by expert panels and then subject to technical analysis. Drum Green Label is the only real whisky being produced in Indonesia that offers a unique taste by combining Scotch and Bourbon whisky making processes. It has a woody and oaky aroma, a buttery taste and a fruity finish.
ECO RESPONSIBILITY The Nusa Dua Beach Hotel & Spa has recently been awarded Silver Certified status by EarthCheck (the world’s leading certifier of travel and tourism organizations), proving the hotel’s ongoing commitment to the environment. With this honor it has officially joined industry leaders of the same status from more than 65 countries. Through sustainable practices and green initiatives in their daily operations, the hotel also recently received the “Green Hotel Award 2013” from Indonesia’s Minister of Tourism and Creative Economy Mari Elka Pangestu. Nusa Dua Beach Hotel & Spa, BTDC Lot. N4, Nusa Dua (0361) 771-210, www.nusaduahotel.com
MULTILINGUAL EASE made the accessibility of their website much easier with the launch of the Chinese version of their website. Potential guests from China, Asia and beyond now have three languages to choose from when booking their stay online – English, Indonesian and Chinese. www.favehotels.com/home/chn
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ALL COURTESY PHOTOS
Due to an ever-increasing Chinese following, favehotels has
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CRAFT&CULTURE
PARADISE LACE PEEK INSIDE THE FACTORY OF ULUWATU HANDMADE BALINESE LACE.
L
ace is not actually a
30’s that sewing machines began
traditional Balinese craft,
to make an appearance in Bali,
as originally the customary
and those were the manual and
dress for Balinese women
foot-paddled kind. In the 1940’s,
was a sarong around the
the Indonesian government began
waist and bare top. However,
to encourage Balinese women
Bali does produce extraordinary
to cover up with blouses. From
and intricate textiles for religious
then on, kebaya blouses became
ceremonies and dance costumes.
the garment of choice for women
It wasn’t until the 1920’s and
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to wear to the temple. With the
availability of sewing machines, the
the fad soon faded and many
stood firmly with their philosophy
Balinese quickly learned to make
switched to producing garments
of producing quality handmade
lace and master skills that were fast
without lace, as they were easier
Balinese lace. Prioritizing quality
disappearing elsewhere in the world.
and quicker to produce.
over quantity is what ultimately
Lace tops became popular in
enabled them to become the leader
the early 1980’s when surfer girls
ULUWATU LACE
began to don them, and from then
Uluwatu Handmade Balinese Lace
on hundreds of home industries
was one of those home industries
produces in small amounts compared
sprang up across Bali, popularizing
that fed the trend in the 80’s. Yet,
to other clothing or garment brands
the term “Balinese lace”. However,
as the trend died down the brand
out there. The company has never
BALI&BEYOND NOVEMBER 2013
of the market.
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Up until now, the brand still
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2
3
2
3
4
The seamstress spun the cotton thread preparing for the krawang process The fabric used for krawang has to be stretched on a bamboo hoop The seamstress starts the krawang process by embroidering the motif screen printed on to the fabric Trimming of the krawang to get rid of unwanted extra fabric and to create a more defined lines.
resorted to big production – Uluwatu
designer, Besti Lestari, to delve
has a small factory in Tabanan
deeper into the steps of producing
that employs only about 300 or so
the beautiful garments that Uluwatu
people (most of whom are women)
has long been known for.
to skillfully make Uluwatu’s lace using the finest quality materials.
“It starts off with a motif design for the lace. We decide on what kind of motif to use, whether it’s a
AN INTRICATE PROCESS
traditional flower motif like Uluwatu’s
The process of creating a kebaya
signature lotus flower, or something
blouse takes about a week and is
more modern like paisley,” she
handled by only one seamstress,
explained. “Afterwards, we
so each item produced is unique.
implement the designed motif into
We caught up with Uluwatu’s head
the pattern of the clothes, trace it
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PHOTOS COURTESY OF ULUWATU LACE
1
“IT STARTS OFF WITH A MOTIF DESIGN FOR THE LACE. WE DECIDE ON WHAT KIND OF MOTIF TO USE, WHETHER IT’S A TRADITIONAL FLOWER MOTIF LIKE ULUWATU’S SIGNATURE LOTUS FLOWER OR SOMETHING MORE MODERN LIKE PAISLEY.” and screen print it onto the fabric we
starts the krawang sewing, which is a
followed by precise trimming of the
are going to use for the kebaya.”
painstaking process where the fabric
lace to the intended design.
She continued by explaining how
is stretched on bamboo hoops and
some garments must be sewn in
sewn on paddle-powered machines,
numerous phases, as the krawang
creating the delicate honeycomb-like
THE WOMAN BEHIND THE BRAND
production process is pretty
holes which will then turn into lace.
Made Jati is the founder of this long-
complicated.
Then comes the washing process
running Balinese lace brand and has
to strengthen the lace and fabric,
an inspiring story. Coming from very
After the screen print, their tailor
humble beginnings, she is the second child of nine and grew up in a poor fisherman’s family in the beach village of Kuta. Her entrepreneurial sense started to emerge as foreign visitors began to arrive in Kuta in the 1960’s. At the time, Made would go down to the beach with cold drinks, fresh fruit and a few sarongs to sell to Kuta’s first tourists. Some of them wanted to bring back handicrafts to sell in their own countries. From here, Made jumped at the opportunity and helped them find things to buy, organized their purchases and scheduled deliveries. By the time she was 17 years old she had her own small business, making lace blouses for tourists. In the early 80’s, when Balinese lace became all the rage for surfer girls, her business really took off. She started to export garments in the thousands every month. She named her company ‘Uluwatu’ after the temple that gave her so much inspiration for her early lace designs. By Ariko Ahmad
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LIFESTYLE&LEISURE
LET’S GET ARTSY OUT OF THE MANY GALLERIES THAT DOT BALI’S LANDSCAPE, HERE’S A SMALL HANDFUL THAT WE VISITED TO QUELL OUR CURIOSITY. ASIDE FROM SHOWCASING BEAUTIFUL PAINTINGS OR PHOTOGRAPHS, THEY ALL HAVE VERY DIFFERENT AMBIANCES AND EVEN OFFER AREAS TO HANG OUT!
BIASA ARTSPACE BALI BIASA sits right on the main drag, flanked by rows of boutiques and
AGUNG RAI MUSEUM OF ART (ARMA) To get your fix of Balinese
Adrien Jean Le Mayeur,
up of several buildings
vendors selling accessories
and the German painter
surrounded by gardens
and knickknacks. However,
Walter Spies.
and ponds. There is also
once you’ve set foot in
a stage for theatre and
the grey tiled entrance
and Indonesian paintings,
eeriness to its interiors,
dance performances.
hall, you’ll feel as though
ARMA is the place for
and you could probably
Admission is Rp. 30,000
you’ve been transported
you to go. The museum
hear a pin drop in this
and includes tea or coffee
somewhere far away
features works by famous
museum. Regardless, we
in outdoor bales with
from busy Raya Seminyak
Indonesian artists such as
loved seeing the intricate
views of the surrounding
Street.
I Gusti Nyoman Lempad,
Batuan paintings from
rice fields.
Ida Bagus Made, and
the 1930’s and 40’s as
Javanese artist Raden
well as the gorgeous
Open daily
looking, the grey tile
Saleh. You can also see
stone carvings on the
from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m.
covers both the floor and
the works of foreign artists
walls near the entrance
Jalan Pengosekan, Ubud
walls. There’s an expansive
who have lived in Bali
to the main building. The
(0361) 976-659
patch up above painted a
such as Rudolf Bonnet,
museum is actually made
www.armabali.com
There is a slight
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It’s quite an edgy space – almost industrial
BALI&BEYOND NOVEMBER 2013
KENDRA GALLERY
special exhibition goes up.
Lots of natural light floods
About 70 percent of the
this lovely little art space
paintings and installations
in Seminyak. The look is
were by local artists (most
simple and clean – white
hailing from Yogyakarta)
walls, whitewashed
while the other 30 percent
wooden floors and chunks
were international.
of wood that have been
At Kendra, jazzy tunes
sanded down to become
play in the background,
stair steps. There’s a
admission is free and
garden area that can be
visitors are welcome to
seen through the floor-to-
hang out in the library
ceiling glass window – so
after perusing the art. So
sophisticated a space that
feel free to have some
it’s even been used for
quiet time alone or invite
birthdays and weddings in
friends to chitchat and
the past.
linger in the pleasant
Hanging on the walls
atmosphere.
at the time of our visit
contrasting orange color
pieces from their extensive
and light pours in through
stock. Admission is free,
the skylights. You’ll hear
so duck in and have
just the sound of your
a look the next time
footsteps and a bit of
you’re out and about in
rustling from the offices
Seminyak.
was a youthful and eye-
Open Mon – Sat
catching hodgepodge
from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.
of contemporary pieces
Jalan Drupadi No. 88b,
from a number of artists,
Seminyak
a nice mix for visitors
(0361) 736-628
to enjoy before the next
www.kendragallery.com
upstairs. At the time of our visit
Open weekdays
we were able to catch
from 11 a.m. to 7 p.m.
the tail end of the exhibit
Saturdays 1 to 6 p.m.
“Observations of the
Jalan Raya Seminyak
Self” by visual artist Sara
No. 34
Nuytemans. In December,
(0361) 847-5766
the art space will feature
www.biasaart.com
BALI&BEYOND NOVEMBER 2013
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POSITIVE NEGATIVE VISUAL GALLERY
been known to enjoy
While the other galleries
space.
cheese and art in the cozy Currently lining their
mostly paintings, we just
walls are photographs
had to throw in this tiny
from 25 local and
gem in Seminyak – a
international exhibitors,
contemporary art space
including Yoga Raharja,
that was showcasing
whose work can be
photography at the time of
found in this edition’s
our visit.
FOTO FOLIO (pg. 56).
Located not too far
Admission is free so check
from Kendra Gallery (it’s
it out before the exhibition
actually within walking
ends later this month.
distance), Positive Negative sits next door
Open daily
THE BLANCO RENAISSANCE MUSEUM
captivated him, which
to Kzu, a relatively
from 9:30 a.m. to 8 p.m.
you can see in the heavily
new lunch spot that has
(9 p.m. on weekends)
framed portraits lining
quickly grown a devoted
Jalan Drupadi No. 92,
This museum in Ubud is
the walls. You might even
following. The gallery is
Seminyak
set amongst an expansive
run into his son Mario
quite small but manages
(0361) 714-2838
garden that includes a
Blanco in the studio on the
to fit in two tall tables
facebook.com/pngallery
small bird park located
museum grounds.
surrounded by tall chairs.
not too far from the entrance. The birds are
Admission is Rp. 50,000, which includes
not to miss – they won
an iced tropical welcome
our hearts over with their
drink. You can elect to
vibrant feathers and their
have your drink at the
tame and lovable nature.
end of your tour rather
The museum itself
We hear that guests have
than at the beginning, so
is several floors and
take a seat and have a
features the works of Don
rest in the restaurant area
Antonio Blanco, a rather
surrounded by beautiful
eccentric Spanish artist
orchids growing straight
who passed away in
out of the tree barks.
1999. He devoted much of his work to capturing
Open daily from 9 a.m.
the beauty of Balinese
to 5 p.m.
women. Since arriving
Jalan Campuhan, Ubud
in Bali in 1952, the
(0361) 975-502
beauty of their form really
www.blancomuseum.com
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BALI&BEYOND NOVEMBER 2013
By Mutia Adisoma
BIASA AND KENDRA PHOTOS COURTESY, POSITIVE NEGATIVE BY YOGA RAHARJA ARMA AND BLANCO PHOTOS BY ARIKO AHMAD
in this article feature
leisurely evenings of wine,
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DINE&DELIGHTS
EASTERN OPULENCE FRESH INGREDIENTS AND IMMACULATE PRESENTATION. THE SELECTION OF JAPANESE CUISINE AT EDOGIN’S ALL-YOU-CAN-EAT NIGHTS IS TRULY A SIGHT TO BEHOLD.
W
hether it’s
The tantalizing selection makes it
have access to all the sushi, sashimi,
the Wagyu
incredibly difficult to decide what
tempura and teppanyaki that their
beef from
to eat first and what to save for the
little hearts (and hungry bellies)
Kagoshima
next round.
desire. The buffet is also available on
Prefecture
Located on the Promenade level
Saturday evenings.
in Japan or the slices of blue fin tuna
of Mulia Resort in Nusa Dua, Edogin
from the famous Tsukiji fish market in
Japanese Restaurant is open daily for
A FEAST FOR THE EYES
Tokyo, everything looks so fresh at
lunch and dinner. We visited Edogin
Walking into the buffet area,
Edogin that you can’t help but feel
on a Friday evening specifically for
we were blown away by how
the urge to pile it all onto your plate.
the all-you-can-eat offer, where diners
immaculately arranged every piece
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BALI&BEYOND NOVEMBER 2013
order. I even noticed my friend
and ramen noodles, Japanese-style
arranging the items on his plate
curry with white rice, and prawn
as he paced around the buffet,
and vegetable tempura. Not too far
perhaps unintentionally mirroring the
from that is an area where chefs
aesthetically pleasing surroundings.
offer just-grilled robatayaki, which is
It wasn’t long before the
basically skewered meat grilled over
restaurant began to fill up with
hot charcoal.
patrons. The majority seemed to
The chefs grill the robatayaki
be guests of Mulia Bali but there
continually but also grill to order if
were definitely diners from outside
you prefer to choose your own slices
the hotel and villas as well. With
of meat, seafood and vegetables.
a seating capacity of 105 persons
There is also a teppanyaki counter
in the main dining area, it did not
that flanks one side of the dining
feel cramped whatsoever. However,
room, with chairs surrounding the
those craving more privacy can
flat griddle so guests can enjoy the
opt for a private dining room that
live cooking show.
accommodates up to 10 people.
SWEET ENDINGS
Hovering quietly around the dining rooms are the incredibly
Make sure to save some space
attentive staff, clad in kimonos. They
for the vast selection of bite-sized
fold tossed-aside cloth napkins neatly
desserts incorporating Japanese
while guests are up at the buffet
ingredients or local fruits and flavors.
and make sure every single guest
The night we visited, the colorful
has enough Japanese green tea or
selection included green tea tiramisu,
refreshment of choice.
coconut jelly, fruit tarts, coffee jelly,
of food was, in particular the sushi
peanut butter chocolate mousse and
and sashimi area. The colors were
OFF THE GRILL
zenzai – a dessert with Japanese red
fantastic – the vibrant orange of
Aside from the sushi and sashimi
bean and mochi balls.
the salmon slices, the bright red
area, there is also an area with soba
salmon roe spheres, the juicy yellow lemon wedges accompanying the Canadian oysters and the refreshing green of the wakame (seaweed) at the salad bar. Speaking of the salad bar, the tangy honey yuzu dressing is not to be missed. Boasting just the right amount of acidity, it might just make you go back for a second helping of these fresh vegetables. Since we were the first table to be seated that night, everything was still untouched and it seemed almost a shame to disrupt the
BALI&BEYOND NOVEMBER 2013
39
Also not to be missed are the
many exotic ice cream flavors
it all to perfection before handing it
such as red bean, white sesame,
back over to you.
sorbet. Don’t fret if your children
NOVEMBER EVENT: SAKE PAIRING
want nothing other than familiar
If you’re looking for a more formal
flavors – Edogin also keeps vanilla,
dinner experience rather than the
all paired beautifully with the lavish
chocolate, and strawberry on hand.
buffet, a unique dinner has been
seven course set menu. Ozeki Sake’s
As if all the delicious flavors
planned for November 7 at Edogin.
Rie Maeda will be on hand to share
weren’t enough, there are also
The ‘Ozeki Sake Pairing Dinner’ will
her expertise throughout the dinner.
numerous ice cream toppings to
feature the ultra premium Judan-
For reservations email edogin.
choose from such as chocolate
Jikomi Junmai-Dai-Ginjo sake (“The
reception@themulia.com.
sprinkles, almonds, fresh fruit,
Masterpiece”), hand carried from
By Mutia Adisoma
raisins, coconut shavings, chocolate
Japan exclusively for the event.
orange, banana fudge and lychee
chips and Oreo cookie crumbles.
Aside from this premium sake,
Edogin at The Mulia, Mulia Resort &
Ask one of the chefs to mix the
you’ll be able to taste the recently
Villas - Nusa Dua, Bali
toppings into your ice cream if
released Hana-Awaka sake
Jalan Raya Nusa Dua Selatan,
you like – they have a cold stone
(“Sparkling Flower”) as well as
Nusa Dua, (0361) 301-7777
imported from Italy where they mix
Edogin’s signature sake cocktails,
www.themulia.com
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PHOTOS COURTESY OF EDOGIN AT MULIA BALI
ginger, green tea, white chocolate
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41
PROFILE&PORTRAIT
THE LATEST
EXPORT HERE WE CHAT WITH ONE OF INDONESIA’S MOST SUCCESSFUL YOUNG ARTISTS, ARIN DWIHARTANTO SUNARYO, ABOUT HIS WORK FEATURED AT THE GUGGENHEIM NY, HIS INSPIRATIONS, AND ABOUT ART IN GENERAL.
Bali & Beyond (BB): Hi! Please tell our readers briefly about yourself. Arin Dwihartanto Sunaryo (ADS): I’m a 35-year-old Indonesian pursuer of dreams, working in art, trying is an artist and my mother is a
ADS: It started with me having
New York, called “Volcanic Ash
traditional wedding makeup artist.
June Yap, a Singaporean curator,
Series #4”.
I’m the second son of three siblings,
come to my studio to see my work.
all of whom work in art. I took my
She was researching Indonesian
ADS: The series came up as a
graduate and masters studies in art,
artists to be shown at an exhibition
continuation of my exploration
but I feel like I have been making art
featuring works from Southeast Asia
in using resin, a material that I
since I was a kid.
and South Asia. I’m just glad that
consider important in the process
she likes my work and decided to
of preservation. The ash has to
include me in the show.
do with my memory of the Merapi
BB: It’s really exciting that one of your artworks is featured at the
eruption that happened in 2010.
Guggenheim New York. How did
BB: Tell us more about your work
It left Indonesians with much grief
this come about?
that is featured at the Guggenheim
and suffering. What I’m trying to do
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BALI&BEYOND NOVEMBER 2013
PHOTOS COURTESY OF ARIN DWIHARTANTO SUNARYO
to make my life better. My father
is to preserve the remnants of the
recognition since the 1990’s. And
Nyoman Nuarta, Setiawan Sabana,
event as a form of memorial, which
in Southeast Asia, Indonesia is still
Tisna Sanjaya, and others. They
is one thing that art can do for its
the biggest scene for contemporary
are great teachers who have
audience.
art. Young artists now have a more
nurtured the current and upcoming
fruitful terrain to develop compared
generation. It is also useful to check
to the previous era.
out the museums, galleries and art
BB: Who influences your art?
spaces that have played a great
ADS: I can’t deny the fact that my father is one of the most influential
BB: You are currently based in
role by conducting exhibitions and
figures in my career.
Bandung. Who are some noteworthy
projects for young artists: Galeri
artists there that you think our
Soemardja, Selasar Sunaryo Art
BB: Where do you find inspiration?
readers should check out online?
Space, Galerikita, Common Room,
ADS: I tend to absorb everything I
ADS: Bandung has become
Nu-Art Sculpture Park, Lawang
see in this world as inspiration.
an active axis in Indonesian
Wangi, Platform3, S14,
contemporary art mainly because
and others.
BB: What do you think makes a
of the existence of the art school at
successful exhibition?
ITB. It’s one of the oldest art schools
BB: What message can you give to
ADS: I like exhibitions that can give
in the country that produces not only
the aspiring young Indonesian artists
an impression of wholeness, a unity
great artists but also art historians,
out there?
that is meaningful to the public.
critics and curators. You can browse
ADS: I don’t think I have anything
the names of historical figures like
to say or to give just yet. For now, I
BB: What do you think about
Ahmad Sadali, Syafei Soemardja,
prefer to keep learning from others.
Indonesian artists, particularly
Mochtar Apin, G. Sidharta, Sanento
painters?
Yuliman, Sudjoko, But Mochtar, Umi
BB: Any plans to do any solo
ADS: Visual art is not only about
Dachlan, Kaboel Suadi, Srihadi,
exhibitions in Indonesia anytime
painting. Indonesian artists have
Rita Widagdo, AD Pirous, Sunaryo,
soon? How about in Bali?
gathered much more international
Haryadi Suadi, Jim Supangkat,
ADS: Hopefully soon!
BALI&BEYOND NOVEMBER 2013
43
INVITE&INDULGE
GET IN TUNE
WITH THE HELP OF GEMSTONES AND TUNING FORKS, YOU’LL FEEL A NEWFOUND SENSE OF CALM AND BALANCE AFTER THE SEVEN CHAKRA DARA TREATMENT. 44
BALI&BEYOND NOVEMBER 2013
T
ucked away amongst the trees on an expansive plot of land in Jimbaran, the AYANA Resort & Spa Bali boasts villas
with dreamy views of the ocean, an exclusive bar set on ocean rocks, and at the time of my visit it looked as if the jogging paths had just received a dusting of snow due to the cotton trees in bloom.
GLIDE THROUGH GARDENS
a multilingual locker attendant.
The Thermes Marins Thalasso Spa
is equipped with showers, large
incorporates treatment rooms, a
mirrors, beauty amenities and ample
reflexology and relaxation lounge,
room to sit.
Cool and quiet, the locker area
steam and sauna rooms, and one Seawater Jet Pools for French
REALIGN YOUR CHAKRAS
thalassotherapy.
When I was ready, I was escorted to
of the world’s largest Aquatonic®
the second floor of the spa complex.
Checking into the expansive facility, I noticed a number of guests
Choosing the Seven Chakra Dhara
gliding around the gardens in
treatment, I looked forward to
bathrobes and slippers, and sipping
reaping the benefits of Ayurvedic
drinks from small cups in bales
massage, aromatherapy blends,
surrounded by koi ponds. Since
gemstone therapy and chakra sound
guests of this spa must be at least 17
healing to unwind after a particularly
years of age, the spa environment
demanding week.
remains tranquil, and the only things
The two-hour treatment began
you will hear are the sounds of
with a footbath, followed by an
splashing fountains and the chirping
Ayurvedic massage that pinpointed
of birds up above.
maram energy zones to relax my tired muscles and open a pathway
Upon checking in, guests are ushered into a spacious locker
for revitalized energy flow. The long
room and greeted warmly by
flowing massage combined with
Having once visited the AYANA’s ballroom for a private event, I was curious to get a taste of the hospitality and services offered at this resort. So I booked an appointment at their Thermes Marins Thalasso Spa, and this is how I came to pass through the cotton-covered winding road as I made my way to their sprawling 22,000 square meter spa facility.
BALI&BEYOND NOVEMBER 2013
45
to all seven of the chakras. Different gemstones were then placed on
WISHLIST: ON THE ROCKS Although the koi-filled ponds at
properties of natural volcanic lava that is rich in minerals. Apparently, this treatment is perfect for achieving
each chakra as a tuning fork was
the spa complex and the view from
the kind of flawless skin that brides-
played to balance the chakras.
the sunny second floor treatment
to-be dream of having on their
rooms were quite enchanting, there
wedding day.
This Seven Chakra Dhara treatment also includes a face and
is another part of the Thermes
scalp massage, but does not include
Marins Bali Spa that will really get
try this first hand, but I must say, I’m
a soak in the bath, as it is advised
your attention: Spa On The Rocks.
absolutely intrigued. Have you ever
to keep the oils on your skin for a
Imagine the unparalleled bliss of
I haven’t had the opportunity to
had the opportunity to try Spa On
couple hours after the treatment for
being perched at the tip of a rock
the Rocks? If so, why not sound off
optimum benefits.
in an open-air spa villa with views
on Bali & Beyond’s Facebook wall
of only the vast ocean. It’s just you,
and share your experience? We
quiet and I moved slightly slower
your therapist and the sound of the
would love to hear from you!
through the locker room. I had an
pounding waves, and nothing will
By Regina Indraswari
appointment to get to afterwards,
get in the way of you feeding off of
but I must say that my muscles
the positive energy of the surrounds.
After the treatment my mind was
were so relaxed that I wouldn’t
Spa On The Rocks has launched
AYANA Resort & Spa Bali Jalan Karang Mas Sejahtera
have minded a nap in one of the
a new treatment called Lava Me
(0361) 702-222
bales instead!
Tender, which utilizes the healing
www.ayanaresort.com
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BALI&BEYOND NOVEMBER 2013
PHOTOS COURTESY OF AYANA RESORT & SPA BALI
synergistic aromatherapy catered
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47
Photos and fun facts that we picked up while exploring the island throughout September and October…
SIGHTS&SOUNDS
JALAN MONSTER We visited a small street in Ubud that had been transformed into an innovative outdoor exhibit space – the first Ubud Public Arts Festival. Jakarta artist Kemalezedine told us that plans for next year’s fest are already in the works, and here’s a hint: in place of monsters, it will be all about lights!
DID YOU KNOW? It takes a month at the very least to carve Balinese doors like this one out of teak wood, according to these nice gentlemen at the ARMA museum. No blueprints to be seen here, folks!
TOURISTS, REJOICE! Guess what? A new Value Added Tax (VAT) refund counter has been opened inside the new Ngurah Rai International Airport! Here is Finance Minister Chatib Basri officially opening the new counter on October 4.
FLYING COLORS We were so amazed by the colors of this Macaw at the Blanco Museum. It was like looking at a living and breathing Pantone book.
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VAT REFUND BOOTH PHOTOS BY ANGGARA MAHENDARA ALL OTHERS BY ARIKO AHMAD
LIKE A RAINBOW If you caught Miss World 2013, you might have noticed the ladies dressed in traditional Indonesian costumes from across the archipelago. Did you know that more than 120 of Indonesia’s top designers were involved with the costume design? Now that’s what we call teamwork!
NOM NOM NOM We tried this little Italian restaurant on Jalan Pengosekan in the south end of Ubud based on friendly recommendation. Mamma Mia’s pizza and salad were so good that it left us wanting more!
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49
REST&RELAXATION
VILLAGE HIDEAWAY IMAGINE SITTING ON YOUR PORCH WITH THE
BREEZE BLOWING THROUGH, SIPPING TEA WHILE LISTENING TO YOUR NEIGHBOR PLAY A TRADITIONAL TUNE ON HIS BAMBOO FLUTE… 50
BALI&BEYOND NOVEMBER 2013
W
hile it may be hard to believe, this scene is not taking
place at a small village in Ubud or Singaraja – it’s actually right in the middle of Bali’s most-visited
WHAT IS “JOGLO”? The term joglo refers to a unique style of traditional Javanese roof with a rising central part supported by four or more wooden columns (saka guru), adorned with intricate carvings on the inside. This kind of structure is found mostly in Central Java and considered sacred, traditionally reserved for Javanese royalty and aristocrats (ningrat).
“golden triangle” area of Legian,
Kampung Cenik offers simple yet
village, which usually can only found
Kuta and Seminyak. This is what
unique accommodations that are
in areas outside of South Bali.
I encountered during my stay at a
ideal for those seeking traditional
quaint little boutique guesthouse
décor and a serene atmosphere
welcomed by the warm and friendly
called Kampung Cenik.
while still being close to Bali’s
staff in an airy reception area that
busiest areas. This boutique
boasts a majestic joglo structure
LITTLE GEM
guesthouse provides you with the
featuring intricate wood carvings
Literally translated as “small village”,
sense of living in a small traditional
on the ceiling. Standing in the
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51
When you arrive you will be
• Krisna Oleh-Oleh Bali is practically next door! It’s less than a five-minute walk away (through the back entrance) and you can get all your Balinese mementos at this gigantic souvenir shop. • Right around the corner, you can indulge yourself at Talaga Spa. Try their traditional Javanese or Balinese coconutbased treatments. • Looking for a new surfboard? You can get a custom-made board at Studer Surfboards, just a stone’s throw away on Dewi Sri Street.
• On the same street you can savor local Javanese delicacies like Mbok Limbok’s Ayam Goreng Kremes (fried chicken with crispy batter) or Warung Indra’s Nasi Tempong. • At night, shake your groove thing at Pyramid Club Bali where international resident and guest DJs are on the decks from Wednesday to Saturday. • In the morning, go a bit further down the street to a little café called Espress for your coffee fix. Place an order for their Shakerato and try not to get hooked!
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reception area, you will be able to see the entire grounds of this little haven that oozes the charm of a quaint Indonesian village. It will immediately put you in a relaxed state.
A TOUCH OF JAVA At Kampung Cenik there are eight small traditional handmade wooden houses and a larger joglo house that have been turned into comfortable guestrooms, all surrounding a sparkling blue swimming pool in the center. The houses were all brought in from Central Java and have been set within lush tropical gardens.
OPENING PAGE PHOTO BY ARIKO AHMAD ALL OTHERS COURTESY OF KAMPUNG CENIK
THINGS TO DO IN THE NEIGHBORHOOD
Choose to either savor the view from
facilities such as satellite TV, air
MAKE IT YOUR OWN
your porch or immerse yourself in
conditioning, a coffee and tea
If you are traveling in a large group,
the cool water during one of Bali’s
maker and other amenities. Also,
it is possible to rent out all the rooms
typically hot and sunny days.
the in-room breakfast option is really
and take pleasure in creating your
convenient, especially if you are
own private little village community.
which is the biggest room at the
there for a romantic getaway.
You’ll be free to have barbecue
property. It features a traditional
By the way, if it is romance
dinners by the pool under starry
I stayed in the Rumah Joglo,
joglo structure with a carved
you are seeking, I recommend the
night skies with those nearest and
wooden ceiling that is different, but
Bawean Tentrem room. It is smaller
dearest to you, either to celebrate
no less beautiful, than the one in
than the Rumah Joglo, in the shape
something special or just have a
the reception area. It also boasts
of a small stilt house tucked privately
different kind of stay in Bali.
a canopied bed, a semi-alfresco
in the corner of the premises within
By Ariko Ahmad
bathroom, a small outdoor backyard
an enclosed space. There is a cozy
and a porch with a view of the
platform underneath the stilt house
Kampung Cenik
swimming pool.
with a mattress and some plush
Jalan Dewi Sri I No. 3, Kuta
cushions – a perfect place to linger
(0361) 894-7343
for two.
www.kampungcenik.com
Kampung Cenik’s rooms are equipped with modern room
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PONDERINGPOINT
THE NEXT GENERATION GADGETS AND GRADES ARE GETTING PRIORITY OVER DANCE LESSONS AND PLAYTIME. SO HOW WILL THE LOCAL ARTS AND CULTURAL VALUES FAIR IN THE FUTURE?
“Nama kamu siapa? Kamu pintar
I just don’t understand how
sekali.” (What’s your name little
some parents can feel proud of
girl? Aren’t you clever.) She looked
their child’s ability to manipulate
confused and asked her mother what
all sorts of gadgets but can’t speak
I had said. Her mother told me that
a word of their mother tongue. The
her daughter couldn’t understand
number of parents that believe in the
me because Indonesian wasn’t her
importance of passing down cultural
main language. This came as quite
values and fostering an appreciation
a surprise to me, because according
for traditional language and art
to the mother they were both native
seems to be dwindling.
Indonesians! conversation about how kids are
TEACH YOUR LITTLE ONES
being raised these days and I
Dear parents, remember that one day
realized how lucky I was to be a
your lovely children will be on their
young student in the early 90s. For
own. Spend time with them while
me, school was not so hard and I
you can and let them enjoy their
had plenty of opportunities to play
childhood. To push them to study over
and lots of time to spend with my
10 hours a day just isn’t worth it,
parents. My mother and father
especially if it causes you to miss out
encouraged me to fill my free time
on precious moments with them.
We ended up having a long
with learning traditional Balinese dance, language and music.
Among the knowledge and skills that your children can acquire, make sure to pour the values of
FOR FUTURE’S SAKE
your culture into the mix as well.
These days, many Indonesian
In order for them to become strong
parents seem to have very different
contenders when facing life in
priorities for their children. For
the real world they need to have
n a bright and
the sake of a promising future,
a strong identity. Culture helps to
sunny day not
parents think that the more time
make a country strong, and it is our
too long ago, I
their kids spend at school the more
responsibility to preserve and pass
decided to enjoy
languages they will know and the
down the Indonesian traditions and
some quiet time
more technological gadgets they will
the art forms that are so intriguing
master, so the better off they will be.
and enthralling to tourists from
at a café. As I sat and sipped my cappuccino, admiring the smiley face
I agree one hundred percent with
around the globe.
in the foam, I noticed a woman and
the idea of giving our children as
her little daughter sitting next to me.
many opportunities to learn and grow
becoming a dancer, at least I know
They were both absorbed with their
as possible. I also understand that
how to explain to others the stories
gadgets – the little girl was playing
our children will face much fiercer
and meanings behind Balinese
“Candy Crush” while her mother was
competition than we ever had to go
dance performances. I am ever so
busily texting on her smart phone.
through. But I believe that on the list
grateful for all the lessons I had when
of parenting priorities, there are some
I was a child growing up in Bali.
crucial things missing these days.
By Bayu Rahanatha
I decided to make small talk with them, so I asked the little girl,
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BALI&BEYOND NOVEMBER 2013
Even though I never ended up PHOTO BY ANGGARA MAHENDRA
O
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55
FOTOFOLIO
“Master Of Puppets”
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BALI&BEYOND NOVEMBER 2013
THROUGH THE LENSE We stumbled upon the photographic works of Yoga Raharja while researching this edition’s LIFESTYLE & LEISURE article (pg. 34), and were so taken that we immediately thought to feature him in FOTO FOLIO. Born in Semarang, Yoga moved to Bali in 1995 and has since made the island his home. “There is no other place that is as perfect as Bali. It’s a heaven for photography,” he professed to us during a meeting in Denpasar. Yoga is particularly interested in human interest and cultural photography and he’s one of three winners at the 2013 Indonesian Photo Exhibition, which had almost 21,000 photo entries from around Indonesia. Having previously exhibited in Japan and Singapore, this month his photography can be found at Positive Negative Visual Gallery or Husk Restaurant at the Royal Beach Seminyak Bali. For inquiries, email noufron@indosat.net.id or call 08123948631.
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This page: “In Between” Opposite page: “Backstage”
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59
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“The Prayer”
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This page: “Before The Storm” Opposite page: “Dare To Be Different”
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“Melasti Ceremony”
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LITTLELOVES
COFFEE
ART
WE’RE NOT TALKING ABOUT DRAWING IN YOUR LATTE OR CAPPUCCINO. THIS MONTH WE’RE EXPLORING SENIMAN COFFEE STUDIO’S ARTISTIC APPROACH IN MAKING AND SERVING UP THEIR CUPS OF JOE.
HAUTE CAFFE In the short time that they have been serving coffee (one and a half years to be exact), Seniman Coffee has managed to gain a loyal following and a reputation as the go-to place for outstanding joe. Some restaurants treat coffee as an afterthought, but Seniman Coffee Studio puts a lot of thought and heart into it. Just like an artist producing artwork, this little coffee haven produces their coffee with passion and vigor – from bean selection and roasting to brewing methods. The founders, David Sullivan and Rodney
I
Glick, spent years refining and never used to be much of a
realizing their vision of a great cup
coffee guy, and back in the day
of coffee, from roasting the beans to
I was more than content to have
using the manual brewing method.
just a cup of instant coffee. But as time went on I learned
Manual brew is a method of drip brewing that uses unique
more about coffee and to be frank,
contraptions such as Syphon, Pour
I became fussier about it. Coffee
Over Drip, Aeropress, Chemex,
flavors are not just bitter or chocolaty
Clever, or Cafetiere. This method
– they can be so much more than
allows the barista to control every
that. And after a visit to Seniman
variable in the brewing process,
Coffee Studio in Ubud I realized that
creating a cup that’s exactly suited
I still have so much to learn!
to one’s preferences and highlights
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the unique character of the coffee. For example, The Light Roast has a tangy and bright taste with a tea-like structure that can only be produced through manual brew using a Syphon, with the barista consistently watching the temperature.
MORE THAN A CAFÉ The name Seniman Coffee Studio was derived from the original concept that this café would be more than just an ordinary coffee shop; it is a melting pot where contemporary art, design sensibilities, and delicate coffee techniques and science blend together. This unique blend of art and science is reflected through every aspect, from the furniture and fittings to the drink and food presentations. As you walk through this unique space, you will
BALI&BEYOND NOVEMBER 2013
67
encounter many quirky details like their original iconic rocking chairs dubbed “Bar Rocker Chairs”, the up-cycled glassware, and the unique serving stick that they use to present the manual brew coffee that comes with complementing nibbles. I particularly liked the Bar Rocker Chairs. At first sight they look to be just your everyday plastic garden chairs, but once you sit on one, you’ll soon realize that these chairs are actually rocking chairs! In fact, they are really comfortable and chic looking, with reclaimed teak wood details that turn the chairs into
who want to learn about coffee in
– from bean selection to roasting to
rocking chairs.
great detail. These classes are run
brewing – in their brand new coffee
by Seniman Coffee’s co-founder,
factory building that is just opposite
this unique venue is the fact that
David Sullivan. You can learn
the coffee shop.
they have a coffee school for those
about all aspects of coffee making
By Miko Harada
David Sullivan, Co-founder of Seniman Coffee
How long have you lived
I have always been a
They use tools and methods
in Bali?
coffee lover, especially
like the Syphon and Pour
I’ve lived here for four
during my time working
Over, which produce a
years, but I’m originally
at an ad agency where I
gourmet coffee taste.
from London, UK.
got to travel around the world and taste many
So, what makes good
How did you start Seniman
different kinds of coffee.
coffee?
Coffee?
But it wasn’t until I lived in
That’s a tough question.
Actually it started off as a
Tokyo and found out about
Well, for me it’s like
‘kaki lima’ (street vendor)
the Japanese coffee scene
science and art. You
concept. We had a cart,
that I really fell in love with
got to understand what
which we still do, selling
coffee.
happens when you brew, like the temperature and
gourmet coffee to Ubud’s streets. We opened up
Thoughts on the different
how much coffee you
a pop-up coffee shop
coffee scenes?
are putting in it. It is also
using our cart at the Ubud
Well there is the Italian
about the roasting. The
Writers Festival, and we
way, which is very
roaster should also have
were coffee partner of the
popular everywhere with
the science and a sense
festival. From the cart we
the espresso, using the
of artistry, and when they
opened up the shop about
big machine and all that.
come together, it will
one and a half years ago.
And there is the manual
produce an awesome
brew, which is very much
result.
When did you start to be
adopted in Japanese and
interested in coffee?
Taiwanese coffee culture.
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68
PHOTOS COURTESY OF SENIMAN COFFEE STUDIO
Another thing that I liked about
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69
ACTION&ATTRACTION
THE LURE OF LEMBONGAN FROM BOAT TO MOTORBIKE TO SURFBOARD, MAKE YOUR WAY FROM ONE METHOD OF TRANSPORT TO THE NEXT AND HAVE AN EXCITING ADVENTURE JUST OFF THE COAST OF BALI.
I
t begins with a mighty sea journey across the Badung Strait on a speedboat, powered by five 250 horsepower engines. The boat whisks you away
from the Sanur shore, and for the next twenty minutes you find yourself on one of the most remarkable and deepest stretches of water anywhere in the world. On this journey I always get a magical feeling of mystery as we cross the Java trench and the Wallace Line, with all of the
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BALI&BEYOND NOVEMBER 2013
unknowns that lurk 3,000 meters
Underdeveloped and lacking a
tourists frolic, the water becomes
under the surface. There is a
reliable water source, it looks slightly
shallow and presents us with a
point exactly in the middle of the
dry and withered.
kaleidoscope of colors in exquisite
trench where the waves follow
What it does do however, is to
blue, green and topaz hues.
the convergence of the powerful
shelter its smaller sister island of Nusa
Lembongan’s coastline drifts by,
currents swirling beneath you. But
Lembongan, wrapping itself around
her salacious curves wooing us with
the skipper, accustomed to the
her protectively to shelter her from the
her beauty.
vagrancies of the trench, navigates
worst of the wet season’s storms.
his way through the huge swells with casual aplomb.
Beneath us the seaweed farms, from which the locals derive a
We round the cliffs at the far western edge of the island where
meager living, drift by. The farms
Suddenly the sea flattens out as
the surf beats itself against the rocks.
here are in trouble as lately the
we round the point of Nusa Penida.
Gigantic plumes of spray are thrown
seaweed refuses to grow. It is
This seldom spoken-about island
high into the air before falling back
thought that the run-off from the villas
is perhaps Bali’s poorest cousin.
down. At Dream Beach, where
that cling to the hillside like limpets,
BALI&BEYOND NOVEMBER 2013
71
it’s an entirely different road trip. The potholes that are connected by thin strips of bitumen make one feel like a competitor in the Dakar Rally! and the spillage from the myriad of
at seeing me again is reinforced by
tourist boats plying these waters are
backslaps and hugs all around. In a
cry out cheerfully as we weave our
impeding its growth.
way, it’s a little like coming home.
way inland past the mangroves and
downside.
Once settled in our
into the “interior”. We stop at a small
accommodation (where the view can
school to have a peek inside and
make even the most hardened cynic
are welcomed by the children and
the beach at Jungut Batu. The
weep), the pleasures of the island
teachers as if we are rock stars. There
white sand stretches east to the
await. A motorcycle ride is the best
is no sense that we have intruded
famous surfing break aptly named
way to see the island in its entirety.
upon them or disrupted their day.
Shipwrecks. Meeting me on the
On the roads, prison rules apply,
beach is Kecho and his naughty
as it’s everyone for themselves. This
allows for the opportunity to visit
sidekick Hendra, friends of mine from
is not the chaotic, exhaust filled
the wonders of the Mushroom and
long ago. Their genuine happiness
experience of riding a bike in Bali;
Coconut Bays, where white sand
The boat eventually drifts onto
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BALI&BEYOND NOVEMBER 2013
The ride is essentially easy and
TOP AND LEFT PHOTOS THIS PAGE BY PAUL V. WALTERS ALL OTHER PHOTOS BY TIM HAIN
Tourism, as always, has its
The locals wave and the children
and warm water waits. Drinks at
teeming with multicolored fish and
sunset, at one of the myriad of bars
coral. It’s literally like being dropped
and restaurants that line the beach,
into a tropical fish tank.
are a must. If surfing is your thing, paddle out
Jungat Batu has a plethora of restaurants that line the boardwalk
from Coconut Beach to the perfect
and the beach; they are all good
barrels of Lacerations (right on top
so just take your pick. You won’t
of the coral!) or the mellower break
be disappointed! Accommodations
of Playgrounds. Or you can try
there vary from 5 star to basic
Shipwrecks, which is a bit further
backpacker, so there is truly
away and requires a boat to access.
something for everyone.
For the less adventurous, ask for
Nusa Lembongan can make your
a boatman named Pingy, who is
soul dance and your heart sing,
a third generation fisherman and
and it’s a place where time has not
guide, and he will take you to some
too much relevance. Ensnared in
of the most spectacular snorkeling
her clutches, whilst exploring and
spots in all of Indonesia. The Wall,
enjoying simple pleasures, time
Crystal Bay and the warm waters
simply loses its meaning.
right off of the mangroves are
By Paul V. Walters
BALI&BEYOND NOVEMBER 2013
GETTING THERE Scoot Fast Cruises (www.scootcruise. com) and Rocky Fast Cruises (www. rockyfastcruise.com) depart from Sanur Beach, run 4x daily (to and from), cost Rp. 500,000 Return (includes hotel pick up and drop off), and the trip takes no more than half an hour. DIVING Lembongan Dive Center Full range PADI courses English, French & Indonesian www.lembongandivecenter.com MOTOR BIKE HIRE You can hire a bike most places but beware – the roads aren’t that great and the bikes can be unpredictable. BEACH DAYS Coconut Beach, Sandy Bay, Mushroom Beach and Dream Beach
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BEYONDBALI
OFF TO LAKE TOBA
FASTEN YOUR SEATBELTS! THIS MONTH, OUR CONTRIBUTOR IS TAKING US ALONG ON HIS ROAD TRIP AROUND NORTH SUMATRA, ENDING AT INDONESIA’S LARGEST LAKE.
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BALI&BEYOND NOVEMBER 2013
BALI&BEYOND NOVEMBER 2013
75
N
orth Sumatra
Chinese from Malacca came into
photographs, I took an abandoned
is one of
the city following a plantation boom
but beautiful route to Lake Toba’s
Indonesia’s most
in the 20’s and 30’s. This area is
northernmost tip. Tongging is a
popular tourist
also known as the center of Medan’s
peaceful little hamlet, but not many
destinations, and
street food scene, and several
travelers make it there because most
one might even be overwhelmed by
historical buildings such as Café Tip
of them end their Toba tour at the
how many places there are to go to
Top, PT. London Sumatra, and Tjong
waterfall. I decided to stay overnight
and see in this province. The best
A Fie’s mansion can be found here.
as it was already pretty late by the
way to enjoy the land of the Bataks
After spending several hours
time I got there. In the morning, I hiked up a
is to have a road trip. So fasten
exploring these historical spots,
your seat belt and I will take you
I went south on Jamin Ginting
twisting path to one of the best views
along on my scenic journey to North
Street, which connects the city to
of the lake I’ve ever seen. By the
Sumatra’s largest and most popular
North Sumatra’s highlands. As I
end of it, the majestic Sipisopiso
gem, Lake Toba.
left Medan behind, the road took
Waterfall came into sight. The 120-
me through green scenery. Driving
meter waterfall hurls itself from a
START YOUR ENGINE
further south through rainforest,
cave on the side of the Lake Toba
The road trip started at North
I reached Brastagi, a small town
and is one of the top five tallest
Sumatra’s capital, Medan. I
in the Sibolangit region that is a
waterfalls in Indonesia.
took my time exploring the city’s
popular weekend destination for
historical treasures, like the Grand
Medanites.
Mosque and the nearby Maimun
This small and hilly town located
After spending hours marveling at Sipisopiso Waterfall, I continued my road trip by heading towards Taman
Palace (built by the Sultan of Deli,
between two mountains (Sibayak
Simalem. It’s a 200-hectare resort
Sultan Makmum Al Rasyid Perkasa
and Sinabung) is known for its fruit
that sits on the northwestern hills of
Alamsyah, from 1887-1891). The
and flower market, as well as a hot
Lake Toba, boasting cool breezes
city also has other historical sites
spring halfway up the Sinabung
and an unparalleled view of the
like the Kesawan area, where the
Mountain. On weekends the town
glistening lake. The resort also has
is packed with tourists, so I decided
its own coffee plantation, passion
to go up to Gundaling Hill instead
fruit farm, a 9-hole golf course, a
to enjoy a breathtaking bird’s eye
small zoo, and is neighbor to 130
view of the entire town and the
hectares of tropical jungle with two
surrounding area.
other natural waterfalls.
THE MAJESTIC SIPISOPISO WATERFALL CAME INTO SIGHT. THE 120-METER WATERFALL HURLS ITSELF FROM A CAVE ON THE SIDE OF THE LAKE TOBA AND IS ONE OF THE TOP FIVE TALLEST WATERFALLS IN INDONESIA
After spending a night at Simalem,
EDGES OF TOBA
the next destination was Tele, on the
My goal was to reach Sipisopiso
western side of the lake. It is one of
Waterfall by the end of the day,
the best places to enjoy the beauty
located on the northern edge of Lake
of the Batak highlands before going
Toba. I traversed through unmarked
down to Samosir, located right in
paths and roads less known and
the middle of Lake Toba. There is a
almost missed several turns in the
watch tower where you can go up to
heavy rain. But finally, the lake
the top for a 360-degree panoramic
revealed itself with its bright blue
view of the neighboring green hills,
waters.
waterfalls and some picturesque
After a brief stop to take some
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BALI&BEYOND NOVEMBER 2013
lakeside villages.
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77
THE FINAL LEG After an hour in Tele, I embarked on the final leg of my journey. Carefully making my way down one of the most spectacular and dangerous roads in all of Sumatra, I reached Pangunguran on the western side of Samosir through an isthmus connecting the island to Tele, proving that Samosir is not an island, contrary to the common belief. time to indulge in its rich culture. I left
culture, and marveling at the
Bataks, I circled tranquil Samosir to
no stone unturned, visiting the Batak
houses, rice fields and the unique
explore the landscape. I decided
villages where people’s lives are still
burial grounds.
to stay there for a bit, giving myself
very much deeply rooted in traditional
Arriving at the home of the Toba
It was a very special experience that I wouldn’t mind repeating, and it’s one that you should definitely try yourself. To end this
NORTH SUMATRA
Tuk-Tuk, on the eastern side of Samosir. Catching a ferry across the lake to Prapat, I reminisced on my journey before my five-hour drive back to Medan.
INDONESIA
By Fadil Aziz
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BALI&BEYOND NOVEMBER 2013
ALL PHOTOS BY FADIL AZIZ
memorable road trip, I drove to
BALI&BEYOND NOVEMBER 2013
79
CAPITALCORNER
STREET
ART
THESE JAKARTA STREET ARTISTS ARE FAR FROM BEING LABELED AS VANDALS, AS PROVEN BY THEIR UNIQUE ARTWORK.
misinterpreted as vandalism. Police
always had an
often can’t differentiate between
instinct to express
the two.
themselves through art, as proven by
As members of the public, we can judge which graffiti and street
paintings by cavemen on cave walls.
art is considered littering and which
These days, people who choose to
are works to be admired. In big
put their art on walls or other public
cities like Bandung and Jakarta,
areas often want to communicate a
many members of the public have
political or social issue to a larger
already accepted street art as
audience. Perhaps the best example
works of art. In Bandung, when
of this is street artist Banksy, a U.K.
you pass through Siliwangi Street,
based graffiti artist famous for his
you can see murals all along the
politically motivated street art.
walls done by the Art and Design
However, the number of vandals
students of ITB (Bandung Institute
or street punks who litter city
of Technology). This street art is
streets, walls and public facilities
much appreciated and has even
with meaningless words definitely
managed to break the record for
outnumbers the artists with a
the longest mural in Indonesia.
message. They often spray paint
In Jakarta, you can see
profanity or their gang’s name,
murals and graffiti flanking
which is why street art is commonly
lots of streets. Some are bad,
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BALI&BEYOND NOVEMBER 2013
ALL COURTESY PHOTOS
H
uman beings have
unfortunately, but some are also
DARBOTZ
good. The good ones convey
Darbotz is one of the founders of
canvas, but he admits that creating
messages to passersby and are awe-
www.tembokbomber.com, one of
art on the streets has its own special
inspiring because they make people
the largest street art and graffiti
appeal. For example, there’s no
wonder how someone could paint
communities in Indonesia. He has
space limit and he derives much
something so sophisticated in such a
a unique style of using only black
inspiration from the cars, pollution,
short amount of time.
and white, done intentionally to
wind and traffic jams. His signature
differentiate his work from some
character is a squid, which
who have emerged to share their
of those that have started to use
represents his alter ego in dealing
thoughts through street art.
street art as a means of commercial
with the big city.
Here are some artists in Jakarta
He also applies this style on
advertising.
Darbotz was one of the judges for Google Openspaces, a project
Jakarta’s traffic as depicted by the artist Darbotz
BALI&BEYOND NOVEMBER 2013
81
This piece and Twitter piece on opposite page by the artist Popo
mixing digital and street art. Even
in various mediums. This band
though Jakarta is congested and can
member of The Adams and White
seem “messed up” at times, Darbotz
Shoes & The Couples Company
still loves the city and expresses
held his first solo exhibition in 2012
this love through his work. The
called “Riwayat Saudagar” (The
piece called “Jakarta’s Monster”
History of Merchants). The exhibition
(a collaboration with artist Tutu) is
was centered on the themes of
a prime example of this, where the
immigration and the amalgamation
monsters represent the Metromini and
of culture and identity. Aside from
buses that crowd Jakarta’s streets.
murals, he also experiments with other mediums such as charcoal on
SALEH HUSEIN As if being a guitarist for two bands
paper and acrylic on canvas. The mural called “Photography:
didn’t keep him busy enough, Saleh
one of the most powerful
Husein also creates visual artworks
weapons (Rethinking the history
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BALI&BEYOND NOVEMBER 2013
PHOTOS COURTESY OF EACH ARTIST
Saleh Husein’s work at Imagerie Gallery
of photography and the city)” is
any superhero characters coming
that initially got him interested in
his collaboration with Kemalreza
out of Indonesia, which is why he
murals. Popo has now been creating
Gibran that is exhibited at Imagerie
has chosen Petruk and Buto as his
murals for about ten years. He
Gallery at the Fairgrounds Jakarta.
signature characters.
has also participated in national
Inspired by Eddie Adams’ photo
Koma also likes Indonesian
and international exhibitions and
that won a Pulitzer, capturing the
wayang characters such as
even held his own solo exhibition
moment where General Nguyen
Rangda, Cakil, and Punakawan.
at Galeri Ruang Rupa in 2010,
Ngoc Loan executed a Viet Cong
Many Indonesian youngsters don’t
winning “The Best Mural Artist”
officer in Saigon, the mural has a
recognize these characters because
at Tembok Bomber Award 2010.
camera in place of the gun from the
perhaps their parents haven’t made
Beside murals, he also experiments
original photo and the city setting is
it a priority to teach them. This is
with paintings, installations and
distorted – an anti-war and anti-
why Koma wants to make them
digital prints.
violence piece.
popular again by mixing them with
By Anne Dewi
“happening” urban culture.
KOMA Ever since he was a kid, the artist
POPO
Koma has collected Petruk comics
This artist’s real name is Ryan Riyadi,
by Tatang S., (famous in the
but people started to call him Popo
80’s) and has always been of the
after the character he invented. This
opinion that local characters from
Popo character is humorous and often
Indonesia can be just as cool as
makes whoever sees it laugh, but his
Dragon Ball characters or any other
murals also contain social criticism.
Western superheroes. These days, he has noticed that there aren’t
It was graffiti near his house made by a mural artist in 2000
BALI&BEYOND NOVEMBER 2013
Vibrant use of color by the artist Koma
83
BEYONDUPDATES
FASHION CAPITAL Last month, Jakarta’s glitziest and most glamorous crowd gathered at Senayan City Mall for the largest fashion event in Southeast Asia. Back for its sixth year, the Jakarta Fashion Week (JFW) was held from October 19 to 25 and featured 240 designers and labels including seven international designers. With 77 fashion shows showcasing 3,000 looks on 350 models, it was an event not to be missed for the capital’s fashionistas. Featured Indonesian designers included Oscar Lawalata, Jeffry Tan, Friedrich Herman, and Tex Saverio, who is known for dressing the likes of Lady Gaga and recently had his ready-to-wear collection shown at Paris Fashion Week.
ALL COURTESY PHOTOS
www.jakartafashionweek.co.id
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BALI&BEYOND NOVEMBER 2013
85
COMMUNITYCALENDAR
CONQUERING NEW GROUND You’re invited to take part in the Bali Highway Half Marathon on November 17, which will be the first running event to be held on the brand new toll road in Nusa Dua. The event will take place at sunset time and will consist of three race categories; a 21 km longdistance half marathon, a 10 km fun run, and the family-friendly Pi fun run/walk (3.14 km with pies at the finish line!). In support of this event, Garuda Indonesia is offering special flight rates to all the participants with 13% and 20% discounts for domestic economy class and international economy class flights respectively. Register now! www.balisporti.weebly.com
DELICATE DRAPERIES For three months, the Bridges Restaurant will hold an exhibition of stunning Indonesian wall hangings and tapestries. The event and enjoy delicious canapés and live music performances. The Bridges Restaurant will donate 20% of the exhibition’s proceeds to John Fawcett Foundation’s Yayasan Kemanusiaan Indonesia, known for providing sight restoration, education and health assistance to youngsters in Bali. Bridges Restaurant, Jalan Raya Campuhan, Ubud (0361) 970-095 www.bridgesbali.com
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ALL COURTESY PHOTOS
will be launched with a party on November 1 from 4 to 8 p.m., where guests are invited to explore as well as to have a drink
BALI&BEYOND NOVEMBER 2013
87
SEE&SEEN
TEACH A MAN TO FISH On October 7 the U.S. Secretary of State John Kerry was seen at Benoa Harbor inspecting a ship’s catch with Indonesian Maritime and Fisheries Minister Sharif Cicip Sutardjo and Anova Asia’s program director of fishing and living. The visit was made to enhance U.S. cooperation with Indonesia concerning fisheries.
COASTAL CLEANUP On September 21, members of Anantara Seminyak Resort & Spa, the Bali Hotels Association (BHA), Rotary Club Seminyak, local schools and the media got together to clean Seminyak Beach. As part of the Ocean Conservancy’s International Coastal Cleanup campaign, the group covered a distance of 2 km and collected over 142.6 kg of trash. www.bali.anantara.com
LEAN & GREEN The South Kuta Beach Business Association (SKBBA) in conjunction with American Express/Bank Danamon launched a “Be Clean, Green and Lean” program in September. In total, 67 bikes were distributed to SKBBA member hotels and are available to guests for free use as part of their “All the Fun Under the Sun” program for 2013/14. www.southkutabali.com
TRICKS OF THE TRADE On October 11 members of the Young Chefs Club Indonesia (YCCI) Bali Chapter visited Bambu Restaurant for a Thai cooking workshop led by Chef Sitanan Ladsa-Nga. The guest chef was visiting from Banyan Tree Koh Samui as part of the “Thai Delights” promotion that took place from October 4 - 11 at the Banyan Tree Ungasan. www.banyantree.com
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ALL COURTESY PHOTOS
CONSULS DO LUNCH Bene Italian Restaurant at the Sheraton Bali Kuta Resort welcomed 21 consuls for a postAPEC Consulate Luncheon on October 10. Executive Chef Rossano prepared a 5-course Rome-inspired Italian menu with a touch of home style. This event was organized by the Sheraton Bali Kuta and Beachwalk. www.beachwalkbali.com
BALI&BEYOND NOVEMBER 2013
89
SEE&SEEN
FILM FEST The 7th annual BALINALE International Film Festival saw the likes of Raditya Dika, Happy Salma, Rima Melati, Didi Petet, festival co-founder Christine Hakim and the Minister of Tourism and Creative Economy Mari Elka Pangestu in attendance. Visiting filmmakers included Donna Smith, Michael Altman, Jan Chapman, Emmanuel Palo, Jong Pil Lee and Ryu Hyun-Kyung, amongst others. The festival was held from October 4 - 10 and saw an increase in young audience members this year. www.balinale.com
FUN RUN On September 21 over 750 runners participated in the Sheraton 3K Kuta Beach Fun Run. The runners gathered bright and early at 6:30 a.m., then ran along Kuta beach and raised over US$ 11,000 for the UNICEF Check Out for Children Challenge. After the race they were invited to savor Kuta’s longest pizza (over 100 meters), prepared by the Sheraton Bali Kuta’s culinary team. www.sheratonbalikuta.com
HOT POCKET October 14 marked the official grand opening of the Harper Kuta Hotel. The hotel is quickly growing in popularity and enjoyed high occupancy levels during its soft opening. Strategically located just a stone’s throw away from Kuta’s hottest clubs, it’s still able to offer a quiet atmosphere by being set back from Jalan Raya Legian. www.harperhotels.com
ORANGE YOU GLAD
TRENDY TREATS A stylish crowd amassed at the Sentosa Seminyak Resort on September 21 for the grand opening of Salt tapas Bali. VIP attendees enjoyed delicious canapés and tapas from Chef Luke Mangan, together with cocktails, champagne, DJ sets and a 30-minute fashion parade set atop the pool. The festive opening was in conjunction with the launch of Design-Dope. www.salttapasbali.com 90
BALI&BEYOND NOVEMBER 2013
ALL COURTESY PHOTOS
Guests came dressed in black and orange but walk-ins were more than welcome to enjoy the fun atmosphere at the Alibi Bar on October 5. Held in conjunction with Jagermeister, partygoers enjoyed fruity Jager cocktails and shots infused with nutty aromas. The dance floor was packed late into the night. www.upaashaseminyak.com
Maxi Hotel & Spa The Maxi Hotel & Spa is situated in the heart of Bali’s shopping and nightlife district. Centrally located, the property offers an ideal base for visitors wishing to explore Bali while keeping all the island’s best shops, bars, restaurants and beaches within easy walking distance. Hotel facilities and services include restaurant, bar, meeting room, massage and spa, room service, swimming pool with Jacuzzi, children’s pool, laundry and dry cleaning service, airport pickup and transfer, snack bar, tour desk, doctor on call, free car park, baby sitter upon request, broadband internet connection, major credit cards accepted, individually controlled air-conditioning, local and IDD telephone, satellite TV, daily mineral water, private bathroom with bathtub and shower, mini bar, personal electronic safe deposit, tea & coffee maker. The balcony overlooking the swimming pool and landscaped tropical garden offers a private area for relaxing. The hotel is less than 15 minutes from Ngurah Rai International Airport; 20 minutes drive to Denpasar, 30 minutes from Sanur, Nusa Dua and within 45 minutes drive to the artistic centre of Ubud and about 350 meters from Bali’s famous Kuta Beach.
Jl. Legian 83A, Legian Tel: (0361) 754-082 Fax: (0361) 750-792 E-mail: info@maxi-hotel.com Website: www.maxi-hotel.com
BALI&BEYOND NOVEMBER 2013
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Negara
JEMBRANA
Medewi
West Bali National Park
Pemuteran
Menjangan Island
Gilimanuk
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M
Nusa Dua
Candi Dasa
Nusa Lembongan Island
Semarapura
Nusa Penida Island
Nusa Ceningan Island
Tanjung Benoa
Sanur
Tenganan
Amlapura
Amed
Tulamben M. Agung
KARANGASEM
Besakih
Lake Batur
KLUNGKUNG GIANYAR
DENPASAR
Taman Ayun
BADUNG
Ubud
Bangli
BANGLI
M. Batur Kintamani Bedugul
Kerobokan Seminyak Legian NGURAH RAI Kuta Tuban INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT Jimbaran Uluwatu
Canggu
Tanah Lot
Tabanan
TABANAN
M. Batukaru
Laker Buyan Lake Tamblingan Lake Bratan
BULELENG
Lovina
Singaraja
BALI&BEYOND NOVEMBER 2013
93
Gado Gado
R
The Oberoi
Jl. Mertasari
uk
H
ra
C
H
Mercure
Rosso Vivo
C
Kuta Sea View
Road
W
H
Kuta Square
R
Gabah
Jl. Tegal Wangi
Kuta Center
Kuta beach
S
S
N
KUTA
Jl. Nakula
Jl. Plawa
Hard Rock Starbucks Jl. Pantai Kuta
H R
nset
Jl. kunti I
Jl. Su
Jl. Tangkuban Perahu
H Istana rama Beachwalk H Harris
Jl. Melasti
Legian Beach
H
Jl. Pa
dma
Amaris Legian
kuda Jl. Wer
Jl. Arjuna
Jl. Camplung Tand
Jl. Laksamana
Jl. Raya Kerobokan
LEGEND: + Medical C Cafe H Hotel M Market H S M Museum Kartika Plaza Shopping S S R Restaurant Discovery Shopping Mall V Villa CD Corps Diplomatique
H
H
The Seminyak
W Hotel
H
ix
le S
Jl. Petitenget
Jemme Cafe
ra
a Uta
adm
Jl. P
oub
Jl. D
Jl. Raya Basangkasa
Jl. Raya Seminyak
C
i Kuta
Panta
aya
Danoya
a
dew
aha
Jl. S
Jl. Mertanadi
ian
Jl. Leg
V
S
n Da
au
Be
Tuah
ra
ta
S
N
Mercure
E
H
H
H
Puri Santrian
H
R
Jl. Sindu
C
Sindu Beach
CD
Bali Hyatt
C
Batu Jimbar
The Village
LEGEND: + Medical C Cafe H Hotel M Market M Museum S Shopping R Restaurant CD Corps Diplomatique
H
H
H
Sector
Sweden & Finland Consulate
Telaga Naga
French Consulate
Sanur Paradise Plaza Suite
M Le Mayeur
Inna Grand Bali Beach
Jl. Segara Ayu
Sanur Paradise Plaza
Tuah Jl. Hang
H
CD
H
Czech Rep. Consulate
Jl. Danau Poso
Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai
W
CD
Jl. Danau Buyan
Jl. Tegeh Agung
n
SANUR
Jl. Tukad Bilok
Jl.
Jl. Hang
CD Italy Consulate
Sanur Beach
Bali Galleria
S
Jl. kunti II
Istana Kuta Galleria
E
apahit Jl. Maj
Kuta aya Jl. R
Jl. R
za
aP la
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Ka
Jl.
an
Jl. Raya Tub
i
Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai
i
Jl.
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H
Grand Nikko Bali Resort & Spa
H
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H
Pa
gia
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H
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+
H
Ayodya Resort bali
iM
+
+
S
R R +
S
Art Market
Medical Center
SAKALA
Tao Bali
Melia Bali
The Laguna
The Bay
LEGEND: + Medical C Cafe H Hotel M Market M Museum S Shopping R Restaurant CD Corps Diplomatique
Grand Hyatt Bali
R
Museum PasiďŹ ka
H
H
Bali Collection
M
Nusa Dua Beach Westin Resort
H H
H
Club Med Bali Kayumanis Nusa Dua
H
Art Market
S
H
Melia Benoa
The Royal Santrian
Conrad Bali
H
H
H
The Oasis
Aston Bali Resort
Grand Mirage
H Novotel Bali Benoa H The Bali Khama
Ina Putri Bali
Village Market
Clinic
uda
M iray
The St. Regis Bali Resort
Jl.
Jl. W
Medical Center
Dental Clinic
Clinic
H H
H
H
Fish Market
Ramada Benoa
The Mulia, Mulia Resort & Villas
+
Jl. Pratama Raya
ai
a Se Nusa Du
Amanusa
H
inge
Tragia
S
i Pem
The Bale
H
Jl. P
Jl. Kurusetra
W
N
NUSA DUA
M
Jl. Pratama
Jl. Batubelig
J
Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai
h Ra gura ss N l. By pa
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Jl. Danau Tamblingan
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BALI&BEYOND NOVEMBER 2013
as Jl. Srikandi
et Road
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94
ma
Jl. Suns
Jl. P
Jl. p By
BALI&BEYOND NOVEMBER 2013
95
Bumbak
Canggu River
Pantai Brawa
Raya Semer Peng
uben
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Perancak Temple
SEMER
Subaksari
Canggu SurďŹ ng
~~ ~~ ~~ ~~
To Denpasar
yan
TIBUBENENG
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BUMBAK
wa
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Pantai Bra
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~~ ~~ ~~ ~~ Canggu Beach
International Community School
To Kerobokan
Ray
CANGGU
Ke
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Jl.
~~ ~~ ~~ ~~
Brawa Beach
Ra
ya
Ke
ro
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BRAWA
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Batubelig
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Batubelig
BATUBELIG
KEROBOKAN
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Su
kasa
Ay
H
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The Legian
Jl. R
+
Ka
S
T Petitenget Temple Petiteng
Obero
E
Basang
LEGEND: + Medical T Tourism Spot H Hotel/Resort M Market M Museum S Shopping R Restaurant
Jl. Raya Kerobokan
N W
R
H
W Bali
KEROBOKAN CANGGU
Warisan Australian International School
Mertanadi
~~ ~~ ~~ ~~
Batubelig Beach
u
State Prison of Kerobokan
ns
UBUD
To Kintamani
M Neka Museum
N
Jl. Sandat
W
an
Jl. Campuhan
To Payangan
KEDEWATAN
Jl. Andong
g ajen
M
Market
M
Cok Putra S wah
Rai ede ok G
T
Pusering Jagad Tample
Jl. C
Jl. IB
Manik
R
Lamak
H
Maya Ubud Resort
iwa
Forest
Medical
nkey
+
Jl. Jemba
+
Jl. Mo
LEGEND: + Medical T Tourism Spot H Hotel/Resort M Market M Museum S Shopping R Restaurant
Medical
Jl. Dewi Sita
SAYAN
Ganding
Ubud Palace
d
Jl. Jero
Ubu
Jl. Sugr
PENESTANAN
aya
Jl. Sand
Jl. R
M Antonio Blanco Museum
man
H
ANDONG
at
Painting Museum
Kayu Manis
TAMAN
Jl. Hano
Ay
un
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CAMPUHAN
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Jl. Su
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Jl. K
Riv
er
weta
Jl. Tirta Tam
UBUD
T
Penataran Sasih Tample
T
Keboedan Tample
Monkey Forest
T
To Denpasar
Jl. Nyuh bulan
PELIATAN
KATIK LANTANG
NYUH KUNING
M Afchaeological Museum
BEDULU
T
Elephant Cave
96
Rudana BALI&BEYOND 2013 M NOVEMBERTEGES Museum
PANGOSEKAN
To Denpasar
To Kemenuh
TENGKULAK
To Gianyar
et
dari
Ro
ad
BALI&BEYOND NOVEMBER 2013
97
INFOINDEX AIRLINES
Tel: (0361) 286-465, Fax: (0361) 286-408 E-mail: bali@honorary.mzv.cz
Renon, Denpasar Fax: (0361) 263-310 E-mail: rtc_bali@thaimail.com
■ AIRPORT OPERATOR Tel: (0361) 751-011
■ FRANCE
■ TIMOR LESTE
■ CATHAY PACIFIC AIRWAYS
Jl. Mertasari Gg. II No. 8, Sanur Tel: (0361) 285-485, Fax: (0361) 286-406 E-mail: consul@dps.centrin.net.id
Jl. Prof. Yamin No. 4, Renon, Denpsar Tel: (0361) 235-093, Fax: (0361) 235-092 E-mail: cgtl@dpsbali.com
■ GERMANY
■ UNITED STATES
Tel: (0361) 768-358, Fax: (0361) 768-369
Jl. Pantai Karang 17, Batujimbar, Sanur Tel: (0361) 288-535, Fax: (0361) 288-826 Email: germanconsul@bali-ntb.com
Jl. Hayam Wuruk 188, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 233-605, Fax: (0361) 222-426 E-mail: amcobali@indosat.net.id
■ ROYAL BRUNEI
■ HUNGARY
Tel: (0361) 757-292
Marintur, Jl. By Pass Ngurah Rai 219, Sanur. Tel: (0361) 287-701, Fax: (0361) 287-456 Email: huconbali@telkom.net
Wisthi Sabha Building, 2nd Floor Ngurah Rai International Aiprort Call Centre: 0804-1-888888
■ CONTINENTAL MICRONESIA
■ SINGAPORE AIRLINES Jl. I Gusti Ngurah Rai, Airport Tel: (0361) 936-8388, Fax: (0361) 936-8383
HEALTH&MEDICAL
■ INDIA
■ GARUDA Jl. Jalan Sugianyar, 5 Denpasar
Jl. Raya Puputan 163, Renon - Denpasar Tel. (0361) 259-502/259-503 Fax.(0361) 259-505
Tel. (0361) 227-824, Fax: (0361) 226-298 24-hour access: 08071-807-807
■ ITALY
■ MERPATI Jl. Gatot Subroto Tengah, 26 Denpasar Tel: (0361) 411-364 Airport Tel: (0361) 9351-011, ext. 5240/5242 Hotline: Tel: (0361) 722-740, 722-741
■ MANDALA AIRLINES Komp. Plaza Kertawijaya Jl. Diponogoro No. 98, Denpasar, Reservation Call center 08041234567
Lotus Enterprises Building Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai, Jimbaran Tel: (0361) 701-005, Fax: (0361) 701-005 E-mail: italconsbali @italconsbali.org
■ JAPAN Jl. Raya Puputan 170, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 227-628, Fax: (0361) 265-066 E-mail: denpasar@dp.mofa.go.jp
■ MALAYSIA
Tel/Fax: (0361) 759-761
Alam Kulkul Boutique Resort Jl. Pantai Kuta Tel: (0361) 752-520, Fax: (0361) 766-373 E-mail: info@consulmalaysia-bali.com
■ THAI INTERNATIONAL
■ MEXICO
Grand Bali Beach Sanur, Tel: (0361) 288-141
PT Puri Astina Putra Building Jl. Prof. Moh. Yamin 1A, Renon, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 223-266, Fax: (0361) 244-568 E-mail: consulmex@astinatravel.com
■ NGURAH RAI AIRPORT
■ QATAR AIRWAYS Discovery Kartika Plaza Hotel, South Kuta Beach Tel: (0361) 752-222; Fax: 753-788 Wisti Sabha Building, 2nd Floor, Ngurah Rai International Aiprort, Tel: (0361) 760-274 Fax: (0361) 760-275
■ NETHERLANDS
■ ROYAL DANISH Sunset Road No. 89 Ruko Sunset Indah I Kav. 3 Tel: (0361) 821-6979, Fax: (0361) 7666-38 E-mail: danishconsbali@gmail.com
CLINIC&HOSPITAL 24-hour emergency medical clinic services, medical evacuation, multilingual staff. Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai 505X, Kuta 80361 Tel: (0361) 710-505, Fax: (0361) 710-515
■ SPAIN
■ BIMC Hospital Nusa Dua
Jl. Tirta Nadi 20, Sanur, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 270-601, Fax: (0361) 287-804 E-mail: bcbali@dps.centrin.net.id
Istana Kuta Galeria, Blok Vallet 2, No. 11 Jl. Patih Jelantik, Kuta Tel: (0361) 769-296, Fax: (0361) 769-296 E-mail: espana_bali@blueline.net.id
■ BRAZIL
■ SWEDEN & FINLAND
Jl. Raya Legian No. 186, Kuta Tel: (0361) 757-775, Fax: (0361) 751-005 E–mail: brazilconsul@bali.net
Segara Village Hotel, Jl. Segara Ayu Tel: (0361) 282-211, Fax: 282-211 E-mail: sweconsul@yahoo.com
24h Accident and Emergency Centre, 24h Medical Centre, international standard hospital with fully equipped ambulances, emergency room, intensive care unit, operating theatres, radiology and pathology, ward rooms, international and multilingual team of medical experts, CosMedic Centre, Dialysis Centre, Dental Centre. Kawasan BTDC, Blok D, Nusa Dua 80363, Tel: (0361) 3000-911, Fax: (0361) 3001-150
■ CHILE
■ SWITZERLAND & AUSTRIA
Jl. Jl. Pengembak Gg 1 No. 3, Sanur, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 756-781, Fax: (0361) 756-783 E-mail: chilehonconsulate@bali-villa.com ■ CZECH REPUBLIC Jl. Pengembak 17 Sanur.
Istana Kuta Galeria Blok Valet 2 No 12, Kuta Tel: (0361) 751-735, Fax: (0361) 754-457 E-mail: bali@honorarvertretung.ch
■ BRITAIN
(ARMA) Ubud, Tel: (0361) 976-659, Fax: 974-229. Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud, open daily 8 am-6pm
■ ABIAN KAPAS Jl. Nusa Indah, East Denpasar Tel: (0361) 227-176
■ ANTONIO BLANCO Ubud , Tel: (0361) 975-502, 975-551 open daily 8 am-5 pm
■ ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM Pejeng, Tel: (0361) 942-352 Open 8 am - 3 pm weekdays
■ GEDONG KIRTYA HISTORICAL LIBRARY Tel: (0362) 25141, Jl. Veteran, Singaraja. Open 7am - 3pm Monday Thursday, until Fridaynoon, closed on weekends
■ GALLERY SENIWATI Jl. Ubud Raya, Gianyar. Tel: (0361) 975-485
■ MUSEUM BALI Tel: (0361) 235-059, 222-680, Jl. Let. Kol Wisnu, Denpasar
■ MUSEUM LE MAYEUR Tel: (0361) 286-164, Jl. Hang Tuah, Sanur. Open 8 am - 2 pm, Tuesday - Sunday.
■ MUSEUM MANUSA YADNYA Mengwi, open daily, but often unattended
■ MUSEUM NEKA Tel: (0361) 975-074, 975-034, Jl. Raya Campuan, Ubud open daily 9 am - 5 pm.
Tel: (0361) 975-136, 971-159, Jl. Raya Ubud, Ubud, www.mpl-ubud.com
■ MUSEUM RUDANA Tel: (0361) 975-779, 976-479, Peliatan, Ubud
■ MUSEUM SUBAK Tel: (0361) 810-315, Jl. Raya Kediri, Desa Sanggulan, Tabanan
■ BIMC Hospital Kuta ■ POLAND
Jl.Gunung Agung 93, Denpasar 80118 Tel: (0361) 426-171, Fax: (0361) 426-477 E-mail: konsulslowakbali@yahoo.com
■ AUSTRALIA, CANADA, NEW ZEALAND Jl. Tantular No. 32, Renon - Denpasar 80234 Tel: (0361) 241-118, Fax: (0361) 221-195 E-mail: bali.congen@dfat.gov.au www.bali.indonesia.embassy.gov.au
■ AGUNG RAI MUSEUM OF ART
■ INTERNATIONAL SOS CLINIC
24h Accident and Emergency Centre, 24h Medical Centre, international standard hospital with fully equipped ambulances, emergency room, intensive care unit, operating theatres, radiology and pathology, ward rooms, international and multilingual team of medical experts, CosMedic Centre for non-invasive and invasive cosmetic and aesthetic treatments. Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai 100X, Kuta 80361 Tel: (0361) 761-263, Fax: (0361) 767-701
CONSULATES
MUSEUMS
■ MUSEUM PURI LUKISAN
KCB Travel, Jl. Raya Kuta 127, Kuta Tel: (0361) 761-502, Fax: (0361) 752-777 E-mail: dutchconsulate@kcb-tours.com
■ DEPARTURE Arrive at the airport two hours prior to departure. A Rp. 150,000 international departure tax is required. Domestic departure fee is Rp 40,000. No Fiscal tax-exempt to pay for Indonesian and expatriates holding KITAS for International departure. Ngurah Rai Intíl Airport, Tel: (0361) 751-011
Call an ambulance by dialing 118, but it is a lot more practical and quicker to hire a taxi. Most hotels have on-call doctors on standby. For “Bali Belly”, Lomotil and Imodium eliminate symptoms, but not gastro-related infections. A fever along with symptoms requires doctor-prescribed antibiotics. Drink as much liquid as possible. Isotonic drinks under various brand names are widely available and are known to replenish body hydration and replace fluids. For discomfort, diarrhea and cramping, drink strong, hot tea; avoid fruits and spicy foods. Some day-biting mosquitoes carry dengue fever, but this is not a problem in tourist areas. Bali is non-malarial and prophylaxis is not required. Mosquito bites, cuts or abrasions easily become infected in the tropics. Treat them immediately. Drink only bottled or boiled water. Peel fruit before eating; avoid raw vegetables except at reputable restaurants. Ice in restaurants is safe. Protect yourself from the intense equatorial sun. Use high SPF sunblock and a hat. AIDS and sexually transmitted diseases are increasing in Indonesia. Local sex workers have multiple partners from around the world. They are not checked for sexually transmitted diseases. Act responsibly and use condoms, available over the counter at pharmacies.
■ RUMAH SAKIT UMUM PUSAT SANGLAH (General Hospital): Jl. Diponegoro, Sanglah, Denpasar. Tel: (0361) 227-911/15
Jl. Raya Petitenget No. 11, Block I/C, Banjar Umasari, Kerobokan Tel: (0361) 732-165, Fax: (0361) 732-165 E-mail: consul@balipolandconsulate.com
■ SLOVAKIA
TOURIST INFO. ■ INTEGRATED TOURISM INFORMATION CENTER (ITIC) A one-stop tourist information complex of ten provinces in Indonesia comprising Bali, Lampung, Jakarta, Banten, West Java, Central Java, East Java, Jogjakarta. Jl. Raya Kuta 2, Kuta, 80361; Tel: (0361) 766-188
■ NGURAH RAI INTERNATIONAL
■ THAILAND Jl. Puputan Raya No. 81,
98
■ SILOAM HOSPITALS 24-hour emergency 779-911 Jl. Sunset Road No. 818, Kuta, Badung, Bali Tel: +62-361-779-900 E-mail: info.bali@siloamhospitals.com
BALI&BEYOND NOVEMBER 2013
AIRPORT Tel: (0361) 751-011
■ BADUNG GOVERNMENT TOURISM OFFICE Jl. Kuta Raya 2, Kuta Tel: (0361) 756-175/76 ■ BALI GOVERNMENT TOURISM OFFICE Jl. Supratman, Niti Mandala, Renon, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 222-387 ■ SINGARAJA TOURIST INFORMATION OFFICE Jl. Veteran 23, Singaraja Tel: (0362) 251-41
■ UBUD TOURIST INFORMATION SERVICE Jl. Raya Ubud, Gianyar Tel: (0361) 96-285, 973-285; 8 am - 9 pm
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BALI&BEYOND NOVEMBER 2013