Bali & Beyond Magazine October 2015

THE SUN... THE SAND... THE SURF... THE CULTURE OF PARADISE AND OVER 18,000 SURROUNDING ISLANDS

O C T O B E R 2 015 VOLUME 17 NO. 185

TRADITIONAL

TEXTILE

PART OF OUR MODERN LIVES

WAYANG ORANG

BHARATA

A JAVANESE CULTURAL SHOW IN THE CAPITAL

MADE IN INDONESIA AUTHENTIC ICONS

www.baliandbeyond.co.id

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TEAMTALK

MADE IN INDONESIA ‘Om Swastiastu...’

Indonesia is a land in the Far East where the sun shines brightly almost all year long, and is home to much cultural diversity. And to say that it is rich with natural beauty is surely an understatement – from hidden pristine beaches to hectares of rice fields, from lush jungles to massive lakes, from various sea creatures to the top of the mountains higher than the clouds. Not to mention the history that goes all the way back to the glorious kingdoms of hundreds, if not thousands, of years ago.

There are a lot of reasons for tourists and travelers to fall in love with Indonesia – one of them being the friendly local people with their great sense for art, which you can see in their traditional fabrics and costumes like Batik, Songket, and Kebaya. Flip through our

COVER Photo by Made Yudistira

‘CRAFT & CULTURE’ to see the history of these textiles and costumes, and how they have now become a part of our modern lives. A photo collection by Made Yudistira in ‘FOTO FOLIO’ will also take you to see a number of traditional dances with intricate costumes and makeup.

In this issue we will take you exploring for all that is truly Indonesian in Ubud as well.

Get pampered with Manis Klepon, a signature treatment at the DaLa Spa in the Alaya Resort Ubud, which is inspired by klepon, an Indonesian traditional snack – find out all about it in ‘INVITE & INDULGE.’ Stay at the newly opened Mandapa, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve that will let you absorb the positive atmosphere of the lush greenery and also let you learn about the Balinese rice culture, which we reveal in ‘REST & RELAXATION.’ When you are visiting Jakarta, don’t forget to catch a performance by Wayang Orang Bharata, a Javanese human puppet show that our contributor Agi R. Andante shares in ‘CAPITAL CORNER.’ And if you are looking for more untouched beaches in Indonesia, head to the Selayar Islands that lie south of South Sulawesi – find out about our adventure in this pristine paradise in ‘BEYOND BALI.’ So, we wish you happy times while discovering all that is unique in this archipelago and, of course, welcome to Indonesia!

‘Om Shanti Shanti Shanti Om…’ The Team

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BALI & BEYOND General Manager GOESTAMAR ARDIBRATA goestamar@baliandbeyond.co.id Senior Editor RISTY NURRAISA risty@baliandbeyond.co.id Junior Editor JOSEPH WANG joseph@baliandbeyond.co.id Editorial Advisors A.A. GEDE RAI, JOHN M. DANIELS Graphic Advisor WENIAR PRAMESTI Senior Graphic Designer I PUTU PARTAJAYA putu@baliandbeyond.co.id Web & Graphic Designer MELIYANA SANTOSO meli@baliandbeyond.co.id Advertising & MarComm. Manager D. ARIEF SENOAJI arief@baliandbeyond.co.id Senior Advertising Sales Executive MEE WAURAN mee@baliandbeyond.co.id Advertising Sales Executive I PUTU RAI SUTRISMA rai@baliandbeyond.co.id F&A Supervisor A.A. KETUT SUKERTI agung@baliandbeyond.co.id Accounting Staff KADEK YULI MARISNA yuli@baliandbeyond.co.id GA & Personnel Adm GEDE ADARA adara@baliandbeyond.co.id Distribution NYOMAN TRI HARIAN SAPUTRA nyoman@baliandbeyond.co.id

Contributors AGI R. ANDANTE, BAYU RAHANATHA, MADE YUDISTIRA, NADIA BINTORO, PAUL V. WALTERS Jakarta Marketing Services/Subscription RISKA WAHYUNINGSIH riska.wahyuningsih@baliandbeyond.co.id Phone : 021 - 2765 1717 / 1718 Ext. 7344 Fax : 021 - 2765 1716 Publisher PT. BUMI DIAN KUSUMA Commissioner SOETIKNO SOEDARJO Director MAULANA INDRAGUNA SUTOWO Division Head MRA Printed Media INDRIATI WIRJANTO

Printing PT. SUBURMITRA GRAFISTAMA, JAKARTA OFFICE Gedung Bali White House - Block IV Jl. Dewi Sri No. 23, Kuta 80361- Bali Tel: 085 100 868601, 085 100 868602 Fax: +62 361 750075 E-mail:mag@baliandbeyond.co.id http://www.baliandbeyond.co.id

Bali & Beyond Magazine is published monthly by PT. Bumi Dian Kusuma under the direction of MRA Media, Jakarta. Although every care is taken, neither the publishers nor any of their designees assume responsibility for the opinions and information expressed by editorial contributors. All material in this publication is copyrighted and cannot be reproduced without written permission of the publisher or author. All trademark and rights to Bali & Beyond are reserved by PT Bumi Dian Kusuma. Editorial materials may be submitted for consideration to the editorial office. Bali & Beyond is not responsible for the return of unsolicited material. © 2006 Bali & Beyond ISSN 0216-4590

A member of

Endorsed by

CONTRIBUTORS

BALI GOVERNMENT TOURISM OFFICE Jl. S. Parman, Niti Mandala Renon, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 222 387, 226 313 Fax: (0361) 226 313

www. skal.org skalbali@dps.centrin.net.id

AGI R. ANDANTE

BAYU RAHANATHA

MADE YUDISTIRA

is a Jakarta-based travel writer. She began her professional carrier as a journalist, living in Bali for a year, then moved back to Jakarta to chase another dream.

is a lecturer at Udayana University and a Marketing Communication specialist. He recently started his own business in tourism yet still finds time to continue his writing hobby.

is a programmer on the weekdays and a photographer on the weekends. He loves exploring new places, local culture and people, then sharing their stories through photos. Check out his photo collection on www.flickr.com/ myudistira.

NADIA BINTORO

PAUL V. WALTERS

took a master’s degree in International Multimedia Journalism at the University of Newcastle, and now has turned her passion for writing and traveling into a series of travel pieces published in a number of media, and is working for an international environmental organization.

is the best selling author of several novels. In addition, he writes for numerous travel journals around the world. His latest book, “Looking For Lionel”, and other stories go into wide release in June 2015.

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THE SUN... THE SAND... THE SURF... THE CULTURE OF PARADISE AND OVER 18,000 SURROUNDING ISLANDS

contents 10.15 OCTOBER 2015 Volume 17 No. 185

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TRENDY TRADITION

DALA SPA

The history and the use of traditional Indonesian textiles

INVITE&INDULGE Manis Klepon, a treatment inspired by a traditional Indonesian snack

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SEEK IN SILENCE

PHOTOS & FUN FACTS

Contemplating at the Bali Silent Retreat

Snapshots and quotes picked up throughout August and September

LIFESTYLE&LEISURE

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SIGHTS&SOUNDS

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REST&RELAXATION NEW OLD BALI

Stay at Mandapa, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve for a luxurious getaway

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PONDERING&POINT “SEMUA BISA DIATUR”

Paul V. Walters shares why he loves living in Bali

FOTOFOLIO

THE DANCING SPIRIT Some sacred Balinese traditional dances captured by Made Yudistira

DINE&DELIGHTS

WHEN EAST MEETS WEST

+ 14 PRIMEPROMOTION Hot deals and promotions of the month that shouldn’t be missed

18. NEW&NEWS

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Remarkable dishes with an Asian twist at SPICE by Chris Salans

This month’s select news updates from the island’s tourism industry and what’s new around the island

68 BEYONDUPDATES News updates from the tourism industry and what’s new beyond Bali

70 COMMUNITYCALENDAR Schedules, calendar highlights and various happenings of interest, from art exhibitions to special events

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Snapshots of events and happenings within the preceding month

PROFILE&PORTRAIT BATIK AND BAMBOO

74 BALIMAPS

Batik Geek is creating phone casings with Indonesian icons

Map of Bali showing specific tourism areas and places of interest, as well as a distance scale between the island’s main destinations

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SHOPPINGSPREE

78 INFOINDEX

MY HERO

Cool T-Shirts by Bloodless Coup

Useful directory of companies and island-based businesses 10

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FIRST COLUMN PHOTO COURTESY OF SPICE BY CHRIS SALANS, SECOND COLUMN PHOTO BY MADE YUDISTIRA, THIRD COLUMN PHOTO COURTESY OF ALLURA

CRAFT&CULTURE

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contents 10.15 OCTOBER 2015

Volume 17 No. 185

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BEYONDBALI

THE WARRIOR DANCE

Capoeira, a beautiful synergy of self-defense and dance

SAIL TO SELAYAR Revealing the untouched beauty of the Selayar Islands

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CAPITALCORNER

JAVA MASTERPIECE

Watching Wayang Orang Bharata in the capital city

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TOP PHOTO COURTESY BY RISTY NURRAISA BOTTOM PHOTO BY CAPOEIRA BALI

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ACTION&ATTRACTION

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PRIMEPROMOTION

MUSICAL NIGHT On October 30, don’t miss the performance of talented violinist Fakhri Bagus Pratama at the Balai Raya Ballroom at The Laguna Bali. Fakhri, who learned to play the violin from the late legendary Indonesian violist Idris Sardi, has been wowing audiences not just in Indonesia but also in Vienna, Geneva, and Prague. Want to catch his show? The tickets are priced at Rp. 100,000 net/person, but you can also enjoy at sumptuous dinner buffet at the Banyubiru Restaurant along with the music for Rp. 550,000 net/person for adults and Rp. 325,000 net/child. This musical night will benefit the UNICEF Check Out for Children Challenge.

The Laguna, a Luxury Collection Resort & Spa BTDC Lot N2, Nusa Dua (0361) 300-5503, www.thelagunabali.com

STYLISH SILK Allura proudly introduces their latest design called “The Beauty of Indonesia: Wearable Silk Art”, a limited edition offering of their stylish silk printed with images of the natural beauty of Indonesia captured by eight travelers, including Flores

by Aima Farhana and Tanjung Bira by Mesty Ariotedjo. Other designs boast Raja Ampat, Ijen Crater, Mount Bromo, Mount Papandayan, and Wakatobi. Allura is also donating 10 percent of every sale to Yayasan Sayap Ibu. Log on to their website to check out these beautiful designs. www.allurastore.com

Imagine a plate of golden fried soft shell crabs that are super crispy and yet soft at the same time, so they virtually melt on the first bite. Tempted? All you have to do is come to the Golden Lotus Chinese Restaurant at the Bali Dynasty Resort and choose from their soft shell crab menu called “Ruan Ke Xie.” Available at Rp. 88,000 net per portion for three people, this dish is served with three different choices of flavors– you can opt to have it cooked with butter and salted egg, butter and oat sauce, or chili and garlic. Don’t waste time, as this special menu is only available until November 30.

Golden Lotus Chinese Restaurant Bali Dynasty Resort, Jalan Kartika, Tuban, Kuta (0361) 752-403, www.balidynasty.com

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ALL COURTESY PHOTOS

SOFT SHELL SURPRISE

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PRIMEPROMOTION

LET’S RIDE! What are your plans on a Thursday night? If you’re up to getting some adrenaline pumping, just head to the Waterbom Bali and join their “Flow & Feast,” where you get to ride their Flow Rider by the hour. And you can also relish some delish dishes at the THAITALIAN Theatre Kitchen Café and sip some refreshing drinks at the bar. The weekend comes early for sure!

Waterbom Bali Jalan Kartika, Tuban, Kuta (0361) 755-676 www.waterbom-bali.com

YOGA TREAT This October, Mulia Bali proudly launches their first ever Mulia Spa Wellness, available for a full day (five to six hours) or half day (four hours). This special package consists of Yoga Stretching and Aqua Aerobics at Mulia’s garden, and is combined with healthy cuisine and spa treatments such as facials and massages. The Mulia Spa Wellness also gives guests access to the resort’s Wellness Suite, including their Ice Room. Not only that, this October the Mulia Spa also launches their natural beauty products for retail sales.

The Mulia, Mulia Resorts & Villas – Nusa Dua, Bali Jalan Raya Nusa Dua Selatan, Kawasan Sawangan, Nusa Dua (0361) 301-7777 www.themulia.com

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ALL COURTESY PHOTOS

GERMAN TASTE Good news for foodies! The Mercure Resort Sanur is bringing you fantastic some German flavors by hosting “Octoberfest on the Beach.” Held on October 23 and 24 from 6.30 p.m. to 10 p.m., and on October 25 from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m., this food festival offers a great selection of German dishes and 10 international beers, and will even be merrier with a Sunday market. Don’t forget to come hungry!

Mercure Resort Sanur Jalan Mertasari, Sanur (0361) 288-833, www.mercureresortsanur.com

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NEW&NEWS

COFFEE TIME Coffee connoisseurs now have a great new place to get a perfect cup of coffee on this island. Grain Espresso, a newly opened café and bistro, offers unique coffee blends that are made of 100% Arabica beans – try their Indonesian Single Origin coffee – along with all day breakfast, bistro favorites, and Asian classic dishes. The café offers a high-speed internet connection and meeting space.

Grain Espresso Jalan Seminyak No. 16B info@grainespresso.com www.grainespresso.com

HAPPY SHOPPING!

ALL COURTESY PHOTOS

Looking for some stylish and comfortable clothes for your children, or even for yourself? The good news is that DUDUK, a Jakarta-based brand helmed by two Dutch designers, is now available at selected retailers in Bali. Just head out to Carga Utama in Petitenget or Little Fox in Kuta and find their great products made of hand-stamped and hand-dyed Batik.

DUDUK also offers a range of tipi tents made of cotton with bamboo poles and comfortable pillows, which are available at Indigo Kids on Jalan Laksmana in Seminyak, and at Alun Alun Bali at the Sogo Department Store as well. www.dudukshop.com

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NEW&NEWS

LADIES NIGHT OUT This October, ilLido Bali is ready to please your palate with their new four-course Dinner Set Menu that is curated from the specials in their la carte menu – expect Grilled Octopus with Nduja, Snapper with Fennel and Beetroot, and Rum and Raisin Coulant with Orange Chocolate Gelato.

A Lunch Set Menu is also available featuring seasonal ingredients and the chef’s specials that will surprise you each day. And for the ladies, you shouldn’t miss out on Ladies’ Night each Wednesday. Priced at Rp. 600,000++, Ladies’ Night at the ilLido Bali will gratify you and your best friends with their three-course menu and free-flow Prosecco, starting at 6 p.m. and finishing at 10.30 p.m. ilLido Bali Jalan Raya Kerobokan No. 38 (0361) 731-175, www.illidobali.com

HELPING HANDS Partnering with Yayasan Solemen Indonesia, the Grand Aston Bali Beach Resort in Tanjung Benoa gives back to society by helping the less fortunate people in Bali – the hotel recently collected donations directly from the hotel guests at the checkout counter, and all funds were given to Yayasan Solemen Indonesia. Not only that, the Grand Aston Bali Beach Resort also hosted a fun event for the less privileged children, taking them swimming in the pool and giving them the opportunity to meet with hotel guests.

Grand Aston Bali Beach Resort Jalan Pratama No. 68X, Tanjung Benoa (0361) 773-577, www.grandastonbali.com

For the third time in three consecutive years, Hatten Wines again won a number of medals at the China Wine & Spirits Awards in Hong Kong, the biggest and the most prestigious wine and spirits competition in China. And this year, Hatten Wines brought home a total of eight medals! Their Aga White and Alexandria were awarded gold medals, the Sparkling Rose Jepun and Sparkling Brut Tunjung won silver, while the Rosé took home a bronze and the Pino de Bali earned a double gold. Congratulations! www.hattenwines.com

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ALL COURTESY PHOTOS

WINNER WINE

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CRAFT&CULTURE

TRENDY TRADITION REVEALING THE HISTORY BEHIND SOME OF INDONESIA’S TRADITIONAL FABRICS AND COSTUMES, AND HOW THEY BECOME PART OF OUR MODERN LIVES…

BATIK

Papua also have their own version of

experts, the history

One of the most famous fabrics in

Batik, with no proof of any influence

of Indonesian textiles

Indonesia, Batik is basically made

from the Hindu pilgrims.

begins around the

with a wax-resist dyeing technique –

8th century B.C. with

a technique that has been practiced

be the ones who developed Batik to

the use of leaves, wood, and simple

by the Egyptians since the 4th

its best potential. Each king of the

weaving techniques. By the 3

Javanese royalty are believed to

century B.C. The Chinese actually

Javanese royalty had his very own

century B.C., the highland Chinese

also had their own version of fabric

Batik pattern, especially designed

wanderers arrived in Indonesia and

using this particular technique, as

by the royalty designers to meet

introduced the very first modern

well as the Japanese, Malaysians,

the king’s personality. By the year

weaved textile. Indonesia has 45

and Africans. But it was the Hindu

1900, Indonesian Batik designs

different types of trees across the

pilgrims who introduced this fabric

were transported by the Indonesian

archipelago that can be used as raw

along with its many patterns –

scholars to many different countries

materials for fabrics, and eventually

all were made in India – to the

including Malaysia and the

those natural resources put Indonesia

Indonesians.

Netherlands – so Batik became very

rd

on the map of the textile industry as

The Indonesians then developed

the locals started to create their own

a similar type of dyeing process with

fabric. To date, there are thousands

a unique pattern that is now known

that makes Batik stand out and

of traditional fabrics and costumes

as Batik. However, archeologist F.A.

be recognized as an Indonesian

across Indonesia, and some of them

Sutjipto believes that this dyeing

heritage, but also the pattern that

are now taking on the world, like

technique for Batik is originally from

is related to the country’s ancient

Batik, Songket, and the Kebaya for

Indonesia, as some parts of the

history. In 2009, UNESCO

example.

archipelago like Toraja, Flores, and

announced Indonesian Batik as a

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popular.

It is not only the craftsmanship PHOTOS BY JOSEPH WANG

A

ccording to some

Masterpiece of Oral and Intangible

and Arab merchants. The Sriwijaya

Heritage of Humanity to support

kingdom, with its capital city located

Indonesia in preserving this cultural

in Palembang, Sumatra, is thought

heritage.

to be one of the first royals to use

Batik is a must-have garment for

Songket in their daily lives. Not only

Indonesians. This fabric used to be

in Sumatra, Songket is also found

only for formal attire in traditional

in Kalimantan, Sulawesi, Lombok,

ceremonies and celebrations, but

Sumbawa, and Bali.

now Batik has become casual

There are two stages in producing

wear for daily activities. Clothing

Songket; first is to create the fabric

designs using Batik fabric are now

base, then to make the pattern using

varied due to the huge demand –

threads. In Bali, the Songket designs

chic skirts, stylish tops, and more,

have been modified to meet the

so Batik has become a trend in

market trend – you can find Songket

today’s pop culture. Yogyakarta

with patterns using gold, silver, or

is the mecca of Batik in Indonesia,

other colorful threads. Klungkung is

but you can also find this textile in

the center of Songket production in

other parts of Java, Bali, and many

the island, but that doesn’t mean you

Kebaya is considered to represent

other areas of Indonesia.

have to go all the way to Klungkung

the most ideal concept of

to find it, because Songket is

femininity. The Kebaya also holds

available in most art markets in Bali.

a philosophical value that reminds

SONGKET This hand-woven fabric made of silk

Kebaya was announced as the national costume of Indonesia in the ‘40s

To Indonesian women, the

the nation of the fight for women’s

or cotton with gold or silver-thread

KEBAYA

rights. In the ‘40s, the Indonesia’s

patterns is believed to have been

This traditional Indonesian female

first President Ir. Soekarno

introduced to Indonesia by Indian

top is made of silk, thin cotton,

announced the Kebaya as the

and nylon with floral embroidery.

national costume of Indonesia.

Songket are available with patterns using gold, silver, or other colorful threads

The Kebaya is usually paired with

Lately, more Indonesian fashion

a sarong for formal occasions like

designers are striving to make the

traditional ceremonies in Java, Bali,

Kebaya part of our modern lives.

and Sumatra.

Years ago the Kebaya could only be

The Kebaya was originally

paired with Batik or other traditional

inspired by the Arab and Chinese

Indonesian fabrics, but now you can

travelers who came to Indonesia in

see it in modern looks anywhere.

the 15th century. Prior to 1600, the

You can even wear a Kebaya with a

Kebaya was only for the royal and

pair of trousers or a skirt. If you are

noble families while others remained

looking for a Kebaya to bring back

topless. With the influence of the

home, just go straight to any local

Muslim pilgrims that women should

art market in Indonesia, including

cover themselves, it didn’t take long

in Bali, and find one that is most

for the Kebaya to become one of the

suitable for you.

characteristics of Indonesian ladies.

By Bayu Rahanatha

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LIFESTYLE&LEISURE

SEEK IN SILENCE TAKE A DEEP BREATH AND FIND YOUR INNER PEACE…

A

s human beings,

Ubud as its capital. But faraway

a common lounge, and a meditation

can we ever stop

in the middle of the quaint village

bale – all are surrounded by

talking? When our

of Mongan in Tabanan, Bali Silent

rice paddies and dense tropical

phone is glued

Retreat had me captivated with its

jungle. The rooms are modest yet

to our hand and

humble charm.

comfortable, but please note that

becomes the extension of our limbs,

there is no designated butler to

it’s hard to imagine a day without

THE ASHRAM

serve you. Once you are done with

“communicating.” Yet over the

Nestled in a four-hectare parcel

registration, you will be given a bag

years, the silent retreat has become

of land and amidst the tranquil

with a set of linens, towels, and a

a new trend, even among celebrities

atmosphere of a village, Bali

blanket – yes, you will need to set up

like Oprah and Gisele Bundchen.

Silent Retreat is the place to be

your own room.

And of course Bali is the leading

for rejuvenation and restoration.

But don’t be intimidated just yet.

place for this experience, as the

The retreat is a building complex

Bali Silent Retreat is not as strict as

island is considered to be a mecca

designed in ashram style,

other meditation retreats, where

for healing and meditation, with

encompassing an accommodation,

even eye contact and talking are

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BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2015

forbidden. This retreat is open to

very own garden. This place truly

morning class I came across and

anyone, and has no fixed schedule

highlights the meaning of meditation;

shared a smile with some local

for any practices aside from regular

to be conscious of your own energy

farmers who were ready to start their

activities like the morning and

source and consumption, be it

work for the day. This majestic view

evening meditation and yoga. The

electricity or food.

of Mount Batu Karu and the rice

morning class starts at 6 a.m., while

Guided by Luke, the volunteer

paddies, and the humble smiles from

the evening class has a more flexible

instructor of the night, eight guests

the locals already calmed my mind.

schedule.

sat in circle in the octagon bale for

I felt even more at peace as my

the Chakra Balancing class. The

morning meditation began, followed

activities such as walks around the

There are also spontaneous

class helped me go deeper into my

by some Hatha yoga for relaxation.

rice paddies, a jungle tour, and a

subconscious to balance each of my

trip to a hot spring – though they

chakra points – I have to say, this

time for breakfast in the garden.

all depend on the availability of the

meditation soothed my mind and I

As a practitioner of slow food and

volunteers. But even if you don’t get

slept really well that night.

conscious eating, Head Chef Simon

to do these fun activities, it is not

Once the yoga was done, it was

The next morning, Mount Batu

Jongenotter introduced New Earth

a problem because actually doing

Karu greeted me from afar as I left

Cooking as a food philosophy that

nothing is much encouraged. After

my bungalow, and the golden rice

entails taking responsibility for

all, that’s why you come to a silent

paddies were spread out as far as

sourcing, preparing, and eating

retreat, isn’t it? To spend some time

my eyes could see. Walking to my

food in unprecedentedly unique

alone with the one person you need to take care of…yourself.

FINDING BALANCE On my first night I took my first meditation class, Chakra Balancing.

Walking from my bungalow to the octagon bale I could feel the chilly night engulfing me, and saw almost nothing but darkness as the path had limited lighting – I’ve been warned that the electricity supply is limited – and I could hear some night animal sounds. This total silence was pretty intense.

As a non-profit eco-community, Bali Silent Retreat employs extreme green measures. All electricity is generated from in-house solar panels; the water is derived from distilling a local spring, while all vegetables are harvested from their

The ashram offers tranquil atmosphere of a Balinese village

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2015

25

pilings, each carrying a massive crystal rock on top. As you walk into the labyrinth, please be mindful with each step and feel the sensation as your feet touch the wet grass. You can also pray, depending on your belief. Meditating in a labyrinth is also believed to induce a receptive state of consciousness. As you Bali Silent Retreat holds on to the New Earth Cooking philosophy

meander back and forth in the labyrinth and your direction shifts, you also shift your awareness from right brain to left brain, and that

and healthy ways. The results are

And so I decided to meditate

selections of vibrant and healthy

in the labyrinth located next to the

meals that kept the guests munching

octagon bale, which turned out to

perhaps it’s the fresh air, but I did

on in silence.

be a highly personal experience.

feel a sense of freedom as I finally

It is a chance to ask yourself some

reached the inner center of the

FINDING PEACE

questions and find your own

labyrinth, so I decided to stay there

There is no agenda after breakfast,

answers. Meditating in a labyrinth

to absorb all the positivity from my

and guests are left to their own

is actually an ancient practice, and

surroundings. My mind started to get

devices. During this “me time”,

quite common in countries like India,

clear, and things began to unravel.

I was surprised to see how my

America, Egypt, and Indonesia – but

And in that total silence, I felt

mind wandered from one thing to

Bali Silent Retreat is the one and

peace.

another so quickly. And that’s how

only place in Bali that provides a

By Nadia Bintoro

meditation helps, not to calm the

labyrinth for meditation.

into perspective.

Surrounded by lush greenery, the labyrinth is cornered by eight

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BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2015

Perhaps it’s the lush trees,

Bali Silent Retreat www.balisilentretreat.com

PHOTOS BY NADIA BINTORO

mind but to observe and put things

helps improve your consciousness.

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2015

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DINE&DELIGHTS

Prawn tempura served in “rujak” style

When East Meets West SPICE BY CHRIS SALANS IS A CASUAL RESTAURANT, WITH THE CHEF’S HIGH STANDARDS FOR FINE FOOD…

A

nyone who is already

Restaurant. Chef Salans now proudly

Mozaic Beach Club. However, this

familiar with Bali’s

opens his latest restaurant in Ubud,

affordable all-day gastro bar still

dining scene must

SPICE by Chris Salans, a casual

embraces the chef’s high standards

have heard about

food joint that shows a different

for food.

celebrity chef Chris

side of him as the restaurant is

Salans, famously known for his

a deliberate departure from the

FUNKY COCKTAILS

refined creations at the Mozaic

sophisticated Mozaic Restaurant and

SPICE by Chris Salans is located

28

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2015

on the side of Jalan Raya Ubud, so

Even before your food is served

after a long hot day. All drinks are

finding a parking spot might be quite

you will feel a whole different dining

made of exotic local ingredients with

a challenge if you drive a car. The

experience. First, the staff will give

a tasteful punch.

best way to visit the restaurant is to

you a form consisting of a list with

park near the Ubud traditional market

little boxes on the side. All you need

ASIAN TWIST

and walk your way down – this

to do is fill in the boxes with a

A wide selections of foods are

also gives you the chance to tune in

number that shows the size of portion

offered, from raw food such as

with the atmosphere of Ubud before

you want for that specific item.

carpaccio or tataki, to sliders. The

munching on the chef’s delish dishes.

Now that your orders are in, time

food is created with an exquisite

Once you get to the restaurant

to sip one of their funky cocktail

taste that is sure please your palate,

the staff will welcome you warmly

concoctions, like the Jackfruit or

and each plate is a perfect marriage

with a Balinese greeting. And as you

Kemangi infused Bourbon – they

between East and West that will

walk in, you can see that SPICE by

are also available in mocktails if

remind Indonesians and Westerners

Chris Salans is thoughtfully designed

you are not up for any alcoholic

of their homeland. SPICE by Chris

with plenty of natural light – you can

drinks. You can also opt for some

Salans also cleverly incorporates

opt to sit either by the bar and watch

young coconut water, which is true

ingredients you thought would never

the skillful team prepare your meal

to Ubud’s spirit of holistic healing. If

work together, but of course under

or at the communal table on the

you are with your kids, don’t worry

the supervision of Chef Chris Salans,

side of the window, while watching

as the little ones will surely love a

these ingredients become a mind-

people passing by on the street.

Jackfruit and Passionfruit Milkshake

blowing treat.

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2015

29

The team behind fabulous food at SPICE by Chris Salans

a number of delectable vegetarian dishes for you. All of the ingredients at SPICE by Chris Salans are locally sourced, and most of the spices are indigenous to the Indonesian archipelago.

SPICE by Chris Salans is open Tuesday through Saturday from 12 p.m. to 11 p.m. The restaurant also offers Lunch Express (Rp. 95,000++) from 12 p.m. to 2 p.m., a special package that includes a sandwich with the choice of tapioca fries or green salad on the side, and a cup of coffee. Or you can come for dinner to enjoy the four-course menu

Cocktails with a twist of indegenous ingredients of Indonesia

available at Rp. 275,000++.

So after a long day of walking and shopping in Ubud, now you

My personal favorite is the Beef Carpaccio, which visually looks just like any other carpaccio. However,

Brisket fat noodles is the star of the

know where to go for a great dining

house.

experience. Just head out to SPICE

And what is a western restaurant

by Chris Salans and relish their

with the first bite you can taste the

without some good fries? But instead

uniquely delicious dishes.

Rendang flavor, which is absolutely

of serving regular French fries, SPICE

By Joseph Wang

brilliant. Another favorite is the Beef

by Chris Salans offers up a twist

brisket served with fat noodles. I

by using local Tapioca Roots and

SPICE by Chris Salans

have met a few people who have

serving them with Base Gede, an

Jalan Raya Ubud No. 23, Ubud

had lunch here, and every single

authentic Balinese mix of spices. For

(0316) 479-2420

one of them agreed that the Beef

vegetarians, the restaurant also has

www.spicebali.com

PHOTOS COURTESY OF SPICE BY CHRIS SALANS

Sit by the table, and watch Ubud’s life unravels while you are enjoying a cocktail

30

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2015

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2015

31

PROFILE&PORTRAIT

we already sold accessories for cell phones, we thought why not combine these two ideas: making accessories for gadgets with Indonesian designs.

BB: What happened after you made that business plan?

BG: Our lecturer enrolled us in Entrepreneurstar 2012, a competition by SBM Institut Teknologi Bandung. We won second place and used the prize money for research and to perfect our products. Then we did a market test on the internet, and surprisingly customers loved our products.

BATIK AND BAMBOO

By the end of 2014 we also received the 20 Top Product

THE BEAUTY OF INDONESIA IS NOW IN YOUR HANDS…

Bandung 2014 achievement by the Bandung governor.

BB: Could you tell us about the process of making the

ade in Bandung, West Java, the

BG: First we make a bamboo block, which is quite

unique selection of phone casings

complicated because bamboo is different from wood – it

by Batik Geek are irresistible,

needs extra care in the production process. Then these

especially to those who admire

bamboo blocks are shaped using a CNC machine for

the beauty of Indonesian art.

high-quality precision, followed by doing the finishing

These phone casings are made of high-quality bamboo

touches by hand, before finally they are engraved with

and are engraved with icons of Indonesia in detailed

a detailed design using a special machine. Each of

designs such as Wayang (shadow puppets) characters,

our products uses polycarbonate, bamboo, suede, and

a Garuda, and batik patterns. To Bali & Beyond (BB),

synthetic leather. We also do detailed quality control on

Afrizal and Nurulita, the owners of Batik Geek (BG),

each product to make sure that they all have the same

open up about their business.

level of quality.

BB: How did you first start this business?

BB: How do you decide on the design and the designers?

BG: We started by selling a bunch of products on

BG: First we settle on the concept, like which icons we

the internet in 2009, among them accessories for cell

want to expose and how the design should be. Then

phones. In 2012 we wanted to do something more

we research their philosophy and values – we try to

serious so we did a little bit of research. At that time

find as many sources as we can, like reading books,

we also had an assignment from a lecturer to make

going to museums, interviewing cultural expertise, or

a business plan. So we decided to create a business

visiting traditional fabric artisans. Once we got all the

plan that we hoped would become a real business in

information we need, we collaborate with a designer

the future. In 2011 and 2012, Aztec

whose style and visions are in line with

and tribal motives became a trend in

our concept – we collaborate with a

Indonesia and caught our attention.

lot of designers, and each of them has

After traveling to some other areas in

their own unique style. Sometimes, we

Indonesia, we realized that this country

(Nurulita and Afrizal) do some designs

has amazing inspirations for designs.

on our own from scratch.

We wanted to bring Indonesian

Like we mentioned before, we

motives and icons to a whole new level

started this business when we were

and help preserve our heritage. Since

still in college, majoring in Visual

32

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2015

PHOTOS COURTESY OF BATIK GEEK

M

phone casings?

Communication Design. That’s when we first looked for talented designers in many forums and communities from all parts of Indonesia, like Yogyakarta, Jakarta, Bandung, and elsewhere. Sometimes, we also went to art exhibitions to see if there were any talented designers we could work with.

BB: What are your visions in running this business?

BG: We want Batik to become a part of the urban lifestyle – and of course, cell phones are a big part of modern life. We hope with Batik Geek, batik and other Indonesian art will always be in our customer’s hands.

BB: To all young entrepreneurs who are interested in a creative business, what would you say?

BG: Indonesia is rich with diverse cultural heritage that we can explore and mold into a business. The most important part is to start with what you like so that you can enjoy every part of the process. And of course, start now before anyone else “steals” your opportunity.

BB: Are you planning on making more than phone casings?

BG: For now we only offer bamboo phone casings, but we are currently brainstorming for other products that probably will be launched by end of this year or early next year.

BB: Where can we find Batik Geek?

BG: We are available at several online shops like Zalora, Lazada, Shopedeca, and more, and of course you can contact us via WhatsApp or text messages. You can also come to our store, or follow us at exhibitions in Jakarta and Bandung. As for outside Indonesia, we have exported our products to Germany, Canada, Holland, Switzerland, England, Korea, Japan, and more.

By Risty Nurraisa Batik Geek Komp. Sariwangi Regency Blok Cemara II No. 9, Bandung, West Java 0856-4208- 6262, www.batikgeek.com

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2015

33

COOL T-SHIRTS THAT REMIND US OF THE SPIRIT OF OUR FOUNDING FATHERS…

W

hen my

collections. I immediately contacted

Through their collections,

sister gave

them via email and got to talk to the

Bloodless Coup hopes their

me this

owners, and eventually found out

customers become interested in

T-shirt she

about their true visions.

finding out more about these heroes.

got from

All the prints are inspired by

“When they see someone wearing

Jakarta, I was captivated. With

real photos, then designed by hand

a shirt with the drawing of Sutan

the illustration of the late Mahatma

by owner/illustrator Syailendra

Syahrir (Indonesia’s Prime Minister

Gandhi printed in great detail on

Anggara with a little help from his

from 1945 to 1947), for instance,

the front, this white top is unlike any

wife, Oktariana. However, before

they will start asking questions about

that process began, Bloodless Coup

him, and eventually get to know him

did thorough research on each

better,” Anggara explains. “This is

of the figures to make sure they

a simple way for our customers to

understood the history of the hero.

learn a little bit more about history.”

Bloodless Coup also aims to invite

Bloodless Coup now has various

the young generations to reminisce

heroes printed on their T-shirts,

about the spirit of those who were

ranging from Indonesian leaders like

other. My sister then showed me

before us, and to never forget about

Pangeran Diponegoro, Adam Malik,

what she got for herself – a white

our founding fathers that made

and Bung Karno with Agus Salim,

shirt printed with an illustration of the

Indonesia – or the world for that

to world-class figures like Malcolm

late Muhammad Hatta, Indonesia’s

matter – as we know it today.

X and Mahatma Gandhi. All the

first vice president.

T-shirts are made of Gildan Soft

To find shirts with drawings of

Style, which is really comfortable

our heroes in this modern fashion

for daily wear, and are available at

industry is pretty rare I have to say,

Rp. 140,000.

and that’s why I think Bloodless

Interested? You can contact them

Coup is a brand to be reckoned

via email at syailendra_anggara@

with. I couldn’t resist my curiosity to

yahoo.com and WhatsApp at 0811

know more about the brand – and

807 411, or like their fan page on

of course, to find out what other

Facebook.

heroes they have printed on their

By Risty Nurraisa

34

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2015

PHOTOS COURTESY OF BLOODLESS COUP

SHOPPINGSPREE

My Hero

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2015

35

INVITE&INDULGE

The Sweetest Escape GET PAMPERED BY A SPECIAL TREATMENT FOR BRIGHTER SKIN, INSPIRED BY A TRADITIONAL INDONESIAN SNACK…

D

products at their Spa Classes. There are three spa lessons available; the Making of Jamu and Home Care Body Mask or Scrub (each at Rp. 395,000++) and Home Care Refresher Facial (Rp. 595,000++) – all are conducted prior to your treatment on a long table adjoining the spa lobby, where the fresh botanical ingredients are on display.

aLa is the Sanskrit

open-air pavilion, where the friendly

But even if you don’t take any

word for leaf – and

staff and the view of the rice paddies

of the classes, the therapist will still

a leaf is the symbol

greet you, you will forget that you

introduce you to the ingredients that

of the cycle of life as

are actually in downtown Ubud.

are going to be applied to your

well as a source of

This spa has a list of old

skin before your treatment begins.

nutrition. The DaLa Spa at the Alaya

Indonesian healing and beauty

On my visit I was up for one of

Ubud embraces the meaning of the

rituals, and uses homemade products

DaLa Spa’s signature treatments,

name perfectly by being a sanctuary

with the purest natural ingredients

the Manis Klepon – manis meaning

where you can recharge your mind,

– and the good news is that you

sweet and klepon is a traditional

body, and soul. As you walk into the

can learn how to make some of the

Indonesian snack made of rice

36

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2015

powder, pandanus leaves, coconut, and palm sugar. Before taking me to the treatment room, my therapist explained all about the benefits of young coconut for my skin while having the ingredients prepared right in front of me on the long table.

SEVEN FLOWERS The two-hour Manis Klepon treatment (Rp. 845,000++ for a single) consists of five different rituals with a refreshing footbath as the starter.

leaf and ginger to help overcome

The therapist then asked which type

tiredness, Invigorating with lavender

calming my mind, so I opted for the

of oil I would like for the Balinese

and eucalyptus to relax your body

Invigorating – and I can assure you

massage, the second ritual. DaLa

and relieve headaches, Tuti Fruity

it was the right choice because once

Spa has five oil selections for you

with mandarin, peppermint and lime

my therapist began the massage

to choose from; Romance with

to attain balance, and Purifying with

treatment I was into a completely

sandalwood and jasmine to arouse

juniper, cypress and lemon as a

relaxed state of mind. Her massage

your senses, Comfort with cinnamon

body purifier.

technique – which consisted of on-

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2015

I was looking forward to

37

One of the treatment rooms at DaLa Spa

Recharge your mind in this open-air pavilion where the view of rice paddies greets you

pandanus leaves. And of course,

relishing some authentic Indonesian

and thumb pressure – combined

some drops of kenanga and jasmine

dishes at the Petani Restaurant. The

with the aroma of Invigorating oil

oil. This 15-minute flower bath helps

best time to have a treatment is on

instantly took me into a deep sleep.

improve your immune system as well

Friday at around 4 p.m., so that

This massage is an amazing way to

as recharges your energy.

when you are done you can have

improve your blood circulation and

dinner at the Petani Restaurant with

MEET THE KLEPON

the company of a Balawan or Gus

After the treatment is done, you

Teja live performance. Better yet,

using grated young coconuts with

should spend some time at The Spa

book a room and stay overnight

palm sugar to gently exfoliate dead

Terrace just adjacent to the spa

at the Alaya Resort Ubud so you

skin cells and brighten up the skin.

lobby, where you will be served

can continue your day of being

This ritual is then followed by a body

a cup of herbal tea and some

pampered by enjoying the view of

mask, using pandanus leaves for the

Klepon – the local snack that the

rice paddies from your room terrace

ultimate in skin rejuvenation.

Manis Klepon treatment name is

and having a great night’s sleep in

derived from. This is to show that

one of their deluxe rooms.

the Manis Klepon treatment is

the ingredients applied to your skin

By Risty Nurraisa

actually the fifth ritual – the flower

are edible too, meaning we should

bath. After the body mask my

only take natural food for our body,

DaLa Spa

therapist drew me a bath with seven

inside and out.

Alaya Resort Ubud

relieve tension.

The next ritual was a body scrub

But what I loved the most about

Jalan Hanoman, Ubud

types of flowers – pacah merah,

With the spa ritual complete, do

pacah seribu, cempaka kuning,

not go back home immediately but

(0361) 972-200

cempaka putih, sandat, gemitir, and

continue your holistic getaway by

www.alayahotels.com

38

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2015

PHOTOS COURTESY OF ALAYA RESORT UBUD

point long strokes, stretches, palm

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2015

39

JJ Goodman, the mixolo gist master-slash-owner of London Cocktail Club, was rocking the Potato Head Beach Club with his drin k creations including this Bump & Grind, a concoc tion of salted caramel, Ketel One, Tia Maria, and cof fee mix.

40

Capture d at Con rad Bali coconut . Blue sk trees alo y, a tran ng the s is all ab quil oce wimmin out. an, and g pool – this is w hat Bali

Colorful kites fly high in the sky at the Denp Festival at Mer asar Kite tasari Beach in Sanur. Beautif ul!

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2015

PHOTOS BY RISTY NURRAISA R AISA AND JOS JOSEPH EPH PH WANG G

SIGHTS&SOUNDS

Our cork board of photos, quotes and fun facts that we picked up while exploring in August and September ...

s Season e Four th t e a e r d th class covere master late rclass colate te choco o s h a a c , m a k n e in h o r T h d . lr n a te bara y not to The V hocola ortunit li at Jim ts; a c p a h p this B g o t li r n e o Res lot from late d was a choco ned a tart. It r r a te la le u la p y o po reall choc lat. and a cipants Choco soufÊ e parti th s a r a , G nd d u e s d is le o be m om Ec chef fr master

e of art, y dish is a piec re where ever vo ca Lo ! at in g od Di s.

Delish fo ced ingredient of locally-sour and is made

Made of choc olate, vanilla ice cream, an Choco Iceber d whiskey, th g at the Rock is Ba r, AYANA Re Bali is surely sort and Spa a guilty pleasu re!

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2015

41

REST&RELAXATION On the top of the cliff approximately 100 meters from the ground. The view is breath-taking

NEW OLD BALI A NEW PLACE TO STAY THAT WILL IMMERSE YOU IN THE BALINESE CULTURE ALONG WITH HIGH-QUALITY SERVICE IN THE HEART OF UBUD’S JUNGLE…

T

he highly anticipated

welcomes you to the resort. This bold

and coconut water. When you are

Mandapa, a Ritz-Carlton

structure is reminiscent of a Candi

ready, your butler – called a patih at

Reserve is now finally

or a local temple, which fits to the

this resort – will escort you directly

open! Nestled in the

name of the resort as mandapa

to your room. There is no check-in

lush valley of the Ayung

actually means temple.

or checkout counter, as everything

River, this new establishment is

After passing through a

will be taken care of by your patih in

screaming the hotel group’s blue

huge door you will find yourself

blood status. A Ritz-Carlton Reserve

standing on the top of the reserve,

is a smaller boutique version of its

approximately a hundred meters

TRUE TO BALI

sister property, the Ritz-Carlton, and

above the ground. From the top you

With only 60 suites and villas, this

they only open in the most exotic

can see the majestic Ayung River

reserve is actually inspired by a real

destinations in the world. Albeit the

valley, a view you can only find in

Balinese village. With a rice field

hotel is designed to meet the local

this particular area of Ubud – this is

laid out in the middle of the land

culture, the service quality must

also a very good spot to enjoy some

complete with a granary and a fully

uphold the reputation of the Ritz-

quiet time, especially at sunset.

functional Balinese family temple,

Carlton name.

Take your time to marvel on this natural wonder as you enjoy your

your suite or villa.

Mandapa, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve is indeed a small village in any sense.

ABOVE AND BEYOND

welcome drink, a traditional Balinese

There are two swimming pools

A circular terracotta entrance

herbal loloh made out of honey, lime

overlooking the rice paddies – and

42

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2015

one of them is heated – but that doesn’t mean you should take your private pool in the villa for granted as it can be heated too. All you have to do is tell your patih and in 24 hours time you will have your own private hot pool. How awesome is that?

A river view villa is the best option for your retreat. The surroundings are so pristine with almost no sounds but the rustling

paintings. And although the

are plenty of slots for you to charge

leaves and the water gushing down

bedroom is designed with a

your gadgets.

below – although sometimes you

modern and simple interior, the

can hear the excitement from people

wood paneled walls add the old

RICE CULTURE

going rafting in the river, and it

Balinese charm.

When morning comes, start your

Another thing I love about the

day with an amazing breakfast at

room is that they put in quite a few

the Sawah Terrace, which boasts

The spacious bedroom is

USB power outlets. So for us gadget

the most stunning view of the Ayung

also distinct in its own way, as

enthusiasts, if somehow you left your

River. Perched on top of the river,

it is adorned with local Balinese

adaptor at home don’t worry. There

this all-day dining restaurant is no

somehow makes the place feel more alive.

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2015

43

system. Being Balinese means you

getting dirty you can always watch

enjoy your most important meal of

manage your own rice fields, so at

the process from the side of the rice

the day. Breakfast is served at the

this reserve you will do exactly that

field. Refreshments will be served

buffet station, but you can also order

as one of the many activities for the

afterwards at the rice granary,

from the a la carte menu. Fresh daily

guests.

which includes Balinese coffee and

juices also will be served along with the high-quality food.

Once your breakfast is done

local snacks.

you will be introduced to how the Balinese work in their rice fields. Be

LIKE A ROYAL

is the Balinese rice culture. The

ready to get dirty as you will have

After spending the morning on the

Balinese rice terrace incorporates an

to level the surface of the mud, all

rice fields, you might just want to

irrigation system called subak,

under the guidance of the hotel

enjoy a spa treatment afterwards.

which is acknowledged by

staff, before finally planting the rice

So just head out to the Mandapa

UNESCO as a world heritage

paddy grass. If you don’t feel like

Spa, which is located at the corner

One of Mandapa’s core concepts

44

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2015

PHOTOS COURTESY OF MANDAPA, A RITZ-CARLTON RESERVE

question one of the best spots to

Balinese village within the reserve. The rice culture is the core DNA of the establishment

of the reserve and is slightly elevated from the riverbank.

When it is time for dinner, the

Surrounded by lush greenery and

reserve’s signature Kubu Restaurant

complete with top-notch hospitality,

is ready to welcome you. Located

Mandapa, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve,

accompany you while you are

on the bank of the Ayung River,

is definitely one of the newest upper

pampered with ESPA products. A

this eco-bamboo structure offers

scale establishments that you should

24 hour very well equipped fitness

Mediterranean-European cuisine

experience for a luxurious getaway.

center is also available, and of

and gives you the option of

By Joseph Wang

course the reserve has a yoga

relishing dishes either from the

pavilion as well. A complimentary

a la carte or degustation menus.

Mandapa, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve

open-air vitality pool with an air and

The Kubu Restaurant also provides

Jalan Kedewatan,

water massage system is also an

nine private dining rooms inside a

Banjar Kedewatan, Ubud

option for wellness if you are not into

bamboo cocoon, each sitting only

(0361) 479-2777

a spa treatment.

four persons.

www.ritzcarlton.com

The sound of the river will

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2015

45

PONDERINGPOINT

putting down tentative roots while children were raised

“SEMUA BISA DIATUR”

and careers pursued. Yet all the time I’m thinking, “Where to next?” The taproot seemed never to be strong enough to hold me in that particular place’s soil, and now it is time to test Indonesia to see if she will take me into her heart.

I’m often asked, “Why Indonesia?” These days I simply answer, “Semua bisa diatur” – which translates

OUR CONTRIBUTOR PAUL V. WALTERS SHARES WHAT IT FEELS LIKE FOR A FOREIGN TRAVELER TO LIVE IN THIS ARCHIPELAGO...

to “things can be arranged.” Those words to me sum up everything that is good in this country. If I were a president I would try to have them etched into the constitution and woven into the national flag. It is right up there in the positivity stakes with that all time great copy line, “Just do it.”

I

Countries everywhere contain within their borders that ndonesia. You’re a puzzle, an enigma, a complex

most precious of all commodities, its people, as does

algorithm, a place full of wonder, and yet you’re a

Indonesia with its nearly 300 million souls occupying

Pandora’s Box whose contents baffle and confuse

over 6,000 of its islands. The diversity of cultures,

those who choose to make your shores their ‘home.’

religions, languages, and thousands of dialects go a

Each time I look at a map I am amazed by just

how huge you are. To the uninitiated it’s a lot to take in; 17,000 islands, 5,160 kilometers from east to west,

long way towards the making up the complex puzzle that is at the core of this great nation.

If I lived here for the rest of my life I would be able to

over 60 archipelagos that lie like broken spines in seas

glean only a tiny glimpse of how it functions because,

so azure – so unbelievably vibrant they are almost too

quite simply, it just does! To an outsider, its customs, its

beautiful to look at. And all of this is surrounded by

way of life is a little like trying to decipher an intricate

majestic volcanoes and mountains whose sole purpose

map that can only be navigated in the “Indonesian way,”

seems to be to reach up and touch a sky delicious with

for any other way will lead to paths that head nowhere.

stars.

Of course, virtually everybody will try to help guide you

If you allow it, Indonesia will certainly seduce you

through your early torturous months, and of course each

with her charms and beauty. And when you have

one will have a completely different view and an even

succumbed, she will call you like a plaintive siren from

more confusing set of instructions to follow.

the sea each time you try to leave her. It takes no time at all to become ensnared in her intriguing web.

Lately I have come to understand the two basic fundamentals that dominate every strata of society

What is it that makes her so appealing, intriguing,

throughout the country, faith, and family – and not

beguiling and at times so tortuously frustrating? I ponder

necessarily in that order. These two values are the glue

this point a lot lately. I suspect my initial feelings of intense

that binds together millions of people, many of them

desire have moved into what has become a long-term love

so very different in terms of language, beliefs, and

affair, with all of the baggage that comes with it.

even appearance – and yet they are all one thing,

I’ve been a wanderer for most of my life, drifting aimlessly like flotsam from country to country, sometimes

46

‘Indonesians.’

I am a foreigner in a foreign land and no matter

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2015

how long I stay here I will always be a foreigner, but not necessarily an outsider. The spirit of giving and acceptance must be part of the nation’s collective DNA, as I encounter such genuine hospitality and generosity of spirit wherever I go.

The majority of my life to date has been spent in countries where its citizen’s worship at that alter of ambition whose goals are the pursuit of money, power, and status, and beware of those who happen to get in the way. Age is not revered in the way it is in Indonesia. In the ‘west,’ the old and the infirm become an irritant to be stashed away in soulless institutions with dishonest names like ‘Tranquility Gardens’ or ‘Peaceful Meadows.’ There the aged will live out their twilight years surrounded only by those as ancient as they are, bereft of family.

MAYA UBUD

When I first arrived in Indonesia, I used to walk the streets of my neighborhood and cries of “Pagi, Papa!” would greet me from doorways and windows. I was a little taken aback at the audaciousness of those who would glibly refer to my age. Now I know that it is a term of respect as I supposedly have an abundance of wisdom and now I wear that particular salutation like a badge of honor. Here, old people are cool….

I think!

It’s easy for a newly arrived resident to don a pair of rose-colored glasses and gaze through those tinted lenses at this strange new world, seeing only the things they want to see. It’s not ‘perfect’ here to be sure, as no place anywhere can attain that lofty status. I battle with the learning of a new language, I struggle to make sense of what should be simple, straightforward paperwork, and along the way I learn to have infinite patience.

Should I stumble when confronted with what seems to be an insurmountable problem, a few locals will gather, then a few more, and a long chat will ensue. And with smiles all around, they will look at me and say, “Don’t worry. Semua bisa diatur.”

I do so love it here!

By Paul V. Walters

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2015

47

FOTOFOLIO

THE DANCING SPIRIT The unique culture of Indonesia, especially Bali, has drawn talented Balinese photographer Made Yudistira to combine two of his passions; exploring local culture and sharing its stories through photos. In this collection, Made Yudistira gives us a closer look at some of the sacred Balinese traditional dances and the performers’ detailed makeup and costumes, showing how the Balinese have an amazing sense of art. www.ickr.com/myudistira

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THE INVINCIBLE HANOMAN The most attractive part of the Kecak and Fire Dance at the Uluwatu Temple is when Hanoman, the white monkey, tries BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2015 to burn down the city.

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2015

49

THE LEGONG DANCER The detailed makeup and costume show how the Balinese ancestors had an excellent taste for the artistic.

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BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2015

THE TRANCE OF SANG HYANG DEDARI One of the many Sang Hyang Dedari dancers.

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2015

51

A STAGE PERFORMANCE A Barong mask or tapel is considered sacred. Before the show starts, a priest has to give an offering and a blessing to the holy spirits.

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53

BETWEEN SMOKE AND FIRE Sanghyang Jaran is known as a sacred Balinese dance.

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LIKE A FIRE The performers of the Kecak Dance chant “Cak cak” in harmony while their hands are up in the air, resembling a fire.

ACTION&ATTRACTION

THE WARRIOR DANCE

CAPOEIRA IS A DEMANDING PHYSICAL ACTIVITY THAT BEAUTIFULLY BLENDS THE ART OF SELF-DEFENSE AND DANCE...

A

group of people were

eventually started the roda – they

to show superiority without making

standing in circle on

were about to play Capoeira.

contact and causing any injury.

a beautiful beach in

Two persons then moved into

the afternoon. They

the middle of the circle as the

CULTURAL HERITAGE

seemed to be having

tone of the berimbau regulated

Born out of a resistance against

a great time talking to each other

the pace or the style of the game.

all forms of oppression, Capoeira

when suddenly a high note from a

Capoeira consists of a lot of kicks

incorporates songs with martial

string percussion instrument called a

and acrobatic movements, but the

arts and dance movements, and

berimbau filled the air. The leader

participants should never knock

is performed and transferred from

of the group started singing a

down their opponents. In fact, they

Capoeira masters to their disciples

soulful Portuguese song, and after a

have to collaborate to show the skills

all around the world. It is originally

verse, all of them sang together and

of the other Capoeiristas. Kicks are

from Brazil, but is believed to have

clapped their hands to the beat of

launched in slow motion only a few

been developed by West African

the berimbau. This hypnotizing ritual

inches away from their opponent

slaves with Brazilian influences in

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BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2015

Acrobatics is a part of the game although it is only to show the skills of the Capoeristas

the 16th century as a defence against the armed colonists who were suppressing them.

By the end of the 19th century, slavery was banned in Brazil and things started to go down. Capoeira began to be misused for crime, as a lot of Capoeiristas were hired as hitmen and bodyguards for the warlords. In fact, a group of Capoeiristas raided the city of Rio de Janeiro, which eventually resulted in Capoeira being prohibited in the whole country in the 1890’s.

But by 1920, Capoeira started to make its way back, and since 1970 Capoeira mestres began to preserve this cultural heritage. Now Capoeira attracts foreign students and tourists to Brazil, and renowned Capoeira mestres even teach this martial art abroad and establish their own schools. Known for its acrobatic and complex movements, as well as an unpredictable pattern of kicks, spins, and other techniques, Capoeira was acknowledged as one of the world’s Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity in 2014 by UNESCO.

A BEAUTIFUL SYNERGY The good news is that Capoeira classes are now available in many areas of Bali – in Ubud, Seminyak, Jimbaran, and Sanur. If you want to burn all those calories from the extensive food and beer you have consumed, Capoeira is what you should be doing at the end of your day, as classes are normally conducted in the evening.

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2015

57

The method of practice in Capoeira is pretty simple. For beginners, the master will teach

This game is open to any age, and could be played anywhere

you all the basic moves, which are almost the same as with other martial arts. And you will get a lot of lunges,

without getting bloody. Around 98

Capoeira schools have their own

believe me.

percent of the game is based on

levels of color for the cordao, but

The key to Capoeira is to never

evasive movements that combine

white is normally for the beginners

stand still. You have to be constantly

launching and avoiding attacks

after their inauguration in a

moving or rolling, or at least simply

in slow motion – which explains

ceremonial roda also known as the

swaying your body from the left to

why watching two persons battling

batizado.

the right the whole time – this works

in Capoeira is like watching a

your core muscles as you have to be

choreographed dance with beautiful

about the instruments and the songs,

engaged with your abdomen and

synergy.

as well as Brazilian and Portuguese

Do not be fooled by its graceful

culture, and Samba – so it is not

game. Not only that, if you keep on

movement though, as Capoeira

just about the martial art. There are

moving it will be easier for you to

also has some deadly movements

no limitations as to why you should

avoid attacks, to mislead and trick

in its arsenal. There have been

learn Capoeira – whether you want

your opponent, and to strike back

a few cases where a fighter has

to learn self-defense or the Brazilian

when your opponent leasts expect it.

been knocked down directly after

culture, or just want to stay healthy,

Kicks are mostly launched to attack, but you can also use your

successfully beating the opponent.

Just like other martial arts,

Capoeira is surely fun!

By Joseph Wang

hands to distract your opponent. Just

Capoeira also has levels, also

remember this one thing; the essence

called as cordao, and each level is

Capoeira Bali

of Capoeira is to show superiority

marked by the color of the belt. Most

www.capoeirabali.com

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BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2015

PHOTOS COURTESY OF CAPOEIRA BALI

lower back to stay strong during the

In Capoeira, you will also learn

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The unique layout allows for a subtle but effective division between the couple and family market. Couples can enjoy the famous Gracie Kelly’s Irish Pub and relax at the adults-only Lazy Pool, while kids enjoy a 56-metre waterslide flowing into their own pool and complimentary entrance to the Enchanted Garden Kids’ Club. A wide variety of rooms catering to the family market are available, sleeping up to five people.

Kupu-kupu Kids’ Club for kids from the age of 4 to 12 and The Den Teens’ Club for children from 10 to 16 years of age are located adjacent to the kids’ pool. A professional trained team is always on hand to ensure the utmost safety and security of all children, with a full, action-packed list of games and activities, ensuring fun for the kids and a relaxing break for the parents. The kids’ playground area provides kids’ slides, climbing frame, see saw, swings, table tennis and much more.

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BEYONDBALI

SAIL TO SELAYAR

FRIENDLY PEOPLE AND PRISTINE BEACHES. THE SELAYAR ISLANDS ARE THE NEXT ‘IT’ TOURIST DESTINATION IN THE ARCHIPELAGO…

W

hat is this

Islands region that is rich with

place? Is

historical treasures.

this for real? Am I

OLD VILLAGE

in heaven?

It was 8 a.m. when our flight took

Those questions came rushing

off from Makassar, the capital city of

through my mind as I arrived on the

South Sulawesi, and headed south

pristine Big Tinabo Island, one of

to Selayar Island. During those 30

the islands within the Taka Bonerate

minutes of flight, excitement was

National Sea Park in the Selayar

all I could feel, as I knew that the

Islands just south of South Sulawesi.

adventure of a lifetime was waiting.

I had heard about the Selayar

Once we got to the island we

Islands before, but my adventure

began our adventure by sipping

there gave true meaning to the

some local coffee at Kopi Culang,

phrase “seeing is believing.” You

the governor’s favorite coffee shop,

have to experience it yourself to

and munching on sticky rice called

actually see just how jaw-droppingly

songkolo – a great introduction to

beautiful this part of Indonesia truly

the local culture. The friendliness of

is. On Big Tinabo Island you will find

the local people instantly made us

white sand beaches so pure it is as

feel at home – from the children to

old, they are still very productive.

if no human has ever set foot there,

elderly, they easily shared their smile

This village is known for its unique

ocean water that is so crystal clear

with us tourists, as well as the sellers

traditional houses that look like

you can actually see fish swimming

we met at the traditional market.

nests up in the air, as Holasa

right from the shore, and of course,

This humble attitude was spread

Liang Lipan, the stalagmite and stalactite cave that is surrounded by clear water

wooden poles as high as 12 meters

the island is so quiet that you will

across the land as we met more

support them – and these poles

forget all your troubles in a moment.

friendly people at Old Bitombang

have been there for hundreds of

Village, which is located only 7 km

years. Why that high, you might

this heaven on earth, let’s rewind a

from Benteng, the capital city of

wonder. Legend has it that during

couple of days back when our small

Selayar Island. And although most

wartime, enemies would attack from

group first arrived on Selayar Island,

of the villagers in Old Bitombang

below using spears. The villagers

the jumping off point of the Selayar

Village are more than 90 years

protected themselves from these

But before I take you exploring in

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BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2015

sudden attacks by building their

which proves how the Selayar

the spots you really should explore.

houses very high.

Islands were an important harbor

As for me, watching the sun setting

thousands of years ago. But what

on the horizon from a jukung was

HIDDEN BEACHES

once a world-class harbor is now

already a treasure to behold.

The Selayar Islands are located right

“just” a fishermen’s village.

at the center of Indonesia, which

From this fishermen’s village we

HEAVEN ON EARTH

made this region an international

went beach-hopping using a jukung

On our second day we went to the

hub that connected all parts of the

to reach some hidden beaches. Liang

Taka Bonerate National Sea Park,

world in the 17th century. The Old

Kareta and Liang Tarrusu Beach

the third biggest atoll in the world,

Anchor Museum is home to anchors

were only two out of several beautiful

so rich with marine biodiversity that

that once belonged to a Chinese

beaches on the western part of the

it is the perfect spot for diving and

merchant in the Padang village,

Selayar Islands. For divers, these are

snorkeling. There are 21 islands

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2015

61

in this national sea park, and Big

think about was meeting the “stars”

beauty, I will never forget the huge

Tinabo Island is the main attraction –

of the island – the baby black tip

oyster and stingray that I saw when

so this is we were headed.

sharks. Imagine sunbathing at the

I went snorkeling. This island also

beach or swimming in the ocean

boasts remarkable sunset and sunrise

takes from three to five hours by

all day, like I did, with baby sharks

views, and for adrenaline junkies,

speedboat – but trust me, the long

swimming freely around you. How

kitesurfing in the morning is surely

journey is beyond worth it as your

cool is that? Don’t worry, they are

great to start your day.

eyes will be filled to overflowing

harmless. And if you want to get a

Traveling back to Selayar Island

with the view of atolls and clear blue

little bit closer to them, try feeding

is another long journey, but the view

sea, and sometimes flying fish, along

them. They are so adorable! As

of the atolls will once again take

the way – some people even saw

for the island’s natural underwater

your breath away. And please spare

The journey to Big Tinabo Island

some wild dolphins! And once we arrived at Big Tinabo Island, I almost couldn’t believe that such paradise is accessible by speedboat.

It felt surreal to be there as I left my footprints on the untouched white sand beach and walked to the Tinabo Island Dive Resort, the only resort on the small island. It was even more unbelievable that there were no other guests there during our visit.

The resort was ours alone. In fact, the whole island felt like our own.

Lunch was served, but all I could

Big Tinabo Island is truly heaven on earth

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BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2015

PHOTOS BY RISTY NURRAISA

Kitesurfing in Big Tinabo Island

INDONESIA A house at the Old Bitombang Village

SELAYAR ISLAND

preserved. This gong, originally from the delta of the Red River in North Vietnam, is believed to have been produced in 600 B.C., and was used to mark the start of a war or some other sacred rituals.

Not far from the historical gong is the Nekara Museum another place you should visit. Designed as a traditional Selayar house, the museum displays artifacts, traditional fabrics, and other historical treasures from Selayar’s golden era. some time to visit Liang Lipan, the

One more activity that is a must

stalagmite and stalactite cave that

on this island is chitchatting with

is surrounded by clear water. There

the locals at a coffee shop – that’s

are two options for going into the

what we did on our last night, as

cave; you can ask the boat to stop at

we wanted to have the best closure

the front of the cave mouth and go in

before our journey back home the

without getting wet, or you can swim

next day. At 9 p.m., Benteng was

TIPS: • The best time to visit the Taka Bonerate National Sea Park is between September-November and April-June.

• In Big Tinabo Island, electricity is only available during the night, and phone signal is almost no existent. Better leave your phone in your bag.

• Book everything in advance, as flights from and to Selayar Island are only available three times a week.

WHERE TO STAY: Syafira Hotel Jalan Jenderal Sudirman No. 21, Benteng, Selayar Island Tinabo Island Dive Resort www.tinaboisland.com

your way in. I preferred the second –

already asleep and there were

trust me, when you see a lagoon that

only two coffee shops open until

is so crystal clear, you won’t be able

midnight. Over a cup of coffee the

to resist the desire to jump out of the

locals shared their dreams about

boat and swim.

improving and developing the tourism industry in their homeland

LOCAL DREAMS

for a better future. They are ready to

Once you got back to the mainland,

repeat the glorious years of Selayar.

there is no need to rush flying back

All they need is the support of

to Makassar as Selayar Island has

conscientious travelers and investors

more history to reveal. Located in

to help them develop their resources

Matalalang, just 10 minutes away

as well as preserve their historical

from Benteng, a bronze Nekara

treasures and natural beauty.

Gong found in 1868 is kept

By Risty Nurraisa

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2015

63

CAPITALCORNER

JAVA MASTERPIECE

WATCHING A TRADITIONAL JAVANESE PERFORMANCE IN THE CAPITAL CITY…

I

the Dutch colonial era, this building used to be for spice storage, but then it was transformed into a theatre called the Realto. Now it hosts the Wayang Orang Bharata (Javanese human puppet) performance every Saturday.

The history of the Wayang Orang

n the hectic area of Senen in

at Jalan Kalilio No. 15, not far from

Bharata group goes way back to

Central Jakarta – an area that

the Senen bus station, a three-story

early ‘60s. In 1963 a human puppet

is renowned as a trade center

building with “Bharata Purwa”

group called Panca Murti was first

since the Dutch colonial era –

written above the entrance door has

established, but it dispersed in

you would never expect to find

been showcasing Javanese theatrical

1972. Some members then formed

art for more than 40 years. During

a new group called Wayang Orang

a Javanese cultural center. Located

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BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2015

Bharata, and they started to perform

Bharata show for six years. But then

a week, but since the production

at Bharata Purwa. At that time there

the Jakarta ofďŹ cials encouraged the

costs were pretty high they agree to

were hundreds of human puppet

group to get back on stage. Marsam

only perform once a week. Years

groups in Java, but now, there are

Mulyo Atmojo, the leader of the

have passed and now the current

only three groups left, one each in

group, called all the members and

group is the ďŹ fth generation of the

Jakarta, Semarang, and Surakarta.

their families, and invited them to

Wayang Orang Bharata family,

Wayang Orang Bharata is among

help preserve this traditional human

which consists of 140 members, who

the rare, and it is based in Jakarta.

puppet performance. For him,

all inherited their roles from their

continuing on with performing is

parents and grandparents.

THROUGH GENERATIONS The renovation of the building

the only way to pass on this cultural heritage to their descendants.

No wonder the performers really understand, not just the storyline

And so the Wayang Orang

but also each of the characters in

near the end of 1999 necessitated

Bharata group was reborn. The

the story, as well as the dance, the

a hiatus for the Wayang Orang

group planned to act three days

costumes, and even the makeup.

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2015

65

The group event prepares their

WATCH AND LEARN

own costumes and make up for

If you think that this cultural show

every performance. The group has

attracts only a limited number of

performs regularly on Saturdays

380 wayang stories, including the

people, you should think again.

at 8.00 p.m. at the Bharata Purwa

Ramayana and Mahabharata from

When I bought my ticket to watch a

building with tickets ranging in

India that are adapted to the culture

performance, I saw that there were

price from Rp. 40,000 to Rp.

of Java and Bali. Every story in every

many enthusiastic people lined up

60,000 – booking your tickets prior

performance is even more epic with

waiting to see the show. I was even

is advisable as they are likely to be

the sounds of traditional gamelan

more amazed when Marsam told

sold out quickly, especially when

music in the background.

me that more than 75 percent of the

popular stories like the Baratayudha

seats are almost always occupied.

is on the schedule. But now you

traditional Javanese dance.

The Wayang Orang Bharata

The show is delivered in

can also catch their performance at

Javanese, but rest assured you

other theatres, such as the Gedung

won’t get lost in translation. To

Kesenian Jakarta in Central Jakarta.

So if you would like to see a

story, the stage is equipped with a

traditional Javanese show while

screen displaying running text in

you’re in Jakarta, now you know

Indonesian. And I have to say, the

where to go. The Wayang Orang

show is hilarious! It is also suitable

Bahrata show will get you closer to

for anyone – I witnessed visitors from

traditional Javanese culture and their

all ages that couldn’t stop laughing

philosophies of life.

as they watched the spontaneous

By Agi R. Andante

acts. And I can never forget how the audience was in awe as the

Bharata Purwa

performers beautifully delivered a

Jalan Kalilio No. 15, Central Jakarta

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BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2015

PHOTOS BY AGI R. ANDANTE

help the audience understand the

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2015

67

BEYONDUPDATES

SHOP IN LOMBOK For those of you who are looking for authentic souvenirs to bring back home from Lombok, look no more! Just head out to Esany Gallery, the latest one-stop shopping spot in Lombok. The Esany Gallery consists of a gift shop, a jewelry store and a restaurant, and is offering a range of products with the best quality – check out their Tenun and Songket fabrics, authentic Lombok souvenirs, crafts, and pearls. The Esany Gallery also has selections of local food from local snacks to Taliwang chicken, sate pusut, sate bulayak, and more.

Happy shopping!

Esany Gallery Jalan Pariwisata No. 8 Montong, Senggigi, Lombok, (0370) 630 706

FAST AND DASHING

www.esany.co.id

Located at their new showroom in TB Simatupang, Jakarta, Ferrari proudly launched their latest new achievement, the Ferrari 488 GTB. With its very sophisticated design, the Ferrari 488 GTB sets a new standard for sports cars, as it is equipped with dynamic vehicle controls and V8 turbo engine for extreme power. The party was made even merrier by the performance of Andien Aisyah, one of Indonesia’s most talented singers. Not only that, Ferrari Jakarta also gave back to the community by hosting an auction and donating all the proceeds to the Dorkas orphanage, a home for underprivileged children.

Ferrari Jakarta Wisma MRA, Ground Floor Jalan TB Simatupang No. 19, Jakarta

For you foodies in Surabaya, East Java, get ready because Cuca is coming to please your palate! On October 23 and 24, the 1903 Restaurant on Jalan Sumatera No. 40 will be hosting Cuca’s first ever pop-up food joint. Prepare to indulge in six of Cuca’s tastiest tapas, such as the BBQ Octopus, Bali’s Breakfast, baked scallops, and meat and potatoes. This special dining experience is priced at Rp. 490,000++ (beverage pairing is also available). For reservations, please call (031) 5033-003 or email to marketing@society.co.id.

Cuca Jalan Yoga Perkanthi, Jimbaran, (0361) 708-066 www.cuca-flavor.com

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ALL COURTESY PHOTOS

POP-UP TAPAS

MAYA SANUR

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2015

69

COMMUNITYCALENDAR

GO GLOBAL

SING WITH THE STARS The Westin Resort Nusa Dua, Bali is once again hosting a charity concert to support UNICEF Check Out for Children. Held at the Mangupura Hall at the Bali International Convention Center on October 16, this special event will wow the audience with the performance of young Indonesian singers Citra Scholastika and Bastian Steel. This impressive duo will share the stage and be collaborating with a children’s choir from Bali’s leading music school. This musical night starts at 7 p.m., and tickets are priced at Rp. 150,000 net per person. All proceeds will be donated to support UNICEF in providing education and vaccinations for children across the Asia Pacific region.

Bali International Convention Centre The Westin Resort Nusa Dua, Bali BTDC Lot N-3, Nusa Dua (0361) 771-906, www.westin.com/bali

From October 16 to 18, the Global Issues Networking (GIN) Conference Bali will be hosted for the third time at Canggu Community School, inviting students from seventh grade and above to get together and discuss global issues. Participants will also learn a lot from international keynote speakers – among them Thai’s first female solo Olympic contender Bam Kamolwan Chanyim, Cambodian performance poet Kosal Khiev, and the founders of Bye Bye Plastic Bags, Isobel and Melati. The GIN Bali 2015 is not only open for students in Bali, Lombok, and Java, but also from Vietnam and East Timor. Entry is Rp. 1,500,000 net for three days, inclusive of all food. www.globalissuesnetwork.org

READY, SET, GO!

The Ubud Writers & Readers Festival is back again for the 12th time! Embracing the theme “17,000 Islands of Imagination”, this year’s festival will welcome more than a hundred authors, thinkers, artists, and other professionals from around the world.

Among the expected speakers are Pulitzer Prize winner Michael Chabon, the founders of the Lonely Planet series Tony and Maureen Wheeler, and Indonesian political journalist Seno Gumira Ajidarma. The Ubud Writers & Readers Festival 2015 will be held from October 28 to November 1, and is going to be filled with intimate literary lunches, poetry slams, night parties, and more. Don’t miss it! www.ubudwritersfestival.com

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BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2015

ALL COURTESY PHOTOS

BEYOND WORDS

Dear sports enthusiasts, giddy up for the Herbalife Bali International Triathlon 2015! Held on October 25, the triathlon will start with a swimming competition at 6 a.m. in Jimbaran Bay, followed by cycling along the Nusa Dua coast and finished with a running competition. The start and finish point will be at the InterContinental Bali Resort and Spa, where food and entertainment will be available for the participants. Click the following website for more details. www.balitriathlon.com

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2015

71

SEE&SEEN

PRESERVING ART It was a night to remember as the Le Meridien Bali Jimbaran hosted its “PreservARTion” charity night in support of preserving Balinese cultural heritage with the maestro of Balinese dance, Ida Bagus Blangsinga, as the main star of the event. Guests were also invited to witness a live painting show by Ponco Setyohadi and a fashion show by APPMI, while indulging in some delectable dishes courtesy of Penelope Williams, Mandif Warokka, Rahung Nasution, and the hotel’s Executive Chef Justin Wong. www.lemeridienbalijimbaran.com

A HOLY CEREMONY On a beautiful Saturday morning, the Plataran Ubud Hotel & Spa held a sacred Melaspas ceremony by the property’s rice fields. Melaspas is a traditional Balinese ceremony to clean and purify a new building site or land from negative elements, as well as to bring prosperity and wealth. This ceremony felt even more sacred with a number of holy performances, one of them being Rejang Dewa, a sacred dance to the Gods. www.plataran.com

Grand Nikko Bali shared some love by inviting hotel guests to join in a sea turtle release, not just once, but twice in August as there were two sea turtles that laid eggs on the hotel’s white sand beach. As a certified eco hotel, Grand Nikko Bali has been striving to help protect sea turtles, and to date has released 404 baby sea turtles to the ocean. www.grandnikkobali.com 72

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2015

ALL OTHERS COURTESY PHOTOS

SWIM FREE!

TIME TO MINGLE! Once again, Bali & Beyond magazine hosted a party to remember, Recharge Night! Held at the Ungasan Hotel & Convention Center, the party welcomed hundreds of guests from the hospitality, travel and tourism industry, making the event the best place to rub shoulders with the who’s who of Bali. Of course the party wouldn’t be as much fun without the support of the Ungasan Hotel & Convention Center, and our other respected partners including Two Islands Wine, Dragonfly Moscato, Heineken, Jose Cuervo, Sailor Jerry, and Socialive. We would also like to thank The 101 Legian Bali, Indosole, Alaya Resort Kuta, Nusa Dua Beach Hotel and Spa, Club Bali Suites, The Sintesa Jimbaran, and Tjendana Corporate for giving out great door prizes. See you at the next party!

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2015

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BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2015

Negara

JEMBRANA

S

N

E

BALI ISLAND

W

Pemuteran

Medewi

West Bali National Park

Gilimanuk

Menjangan Island

Uluwatu

M

Nusa Dua

Candi Dasa

Nusa Lembongan Island

Semarapura

Nusa Penida Island

Nusa Ceningan Island Tanjung Benoa

Sanur

Tenganan

Amlapura

Amed

Tulamben M. Agung

KARANGASEM

Besakih

Lake Batur

KLUNGKUNG GIANYAR

DENPASAR

Taman Ayun

BADUNG

Ubud

Bangli

BANGLI

M. Batur Kintamani Bedugul

Kerobokan Seminyak Legian NGURAH RAI Kuta Tuban INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT Jimbaran

Canggu

Tanah Lot

Tabanan

TABANAN

M. Batukaru

Laker Buyan Lake Tamblingan Lake Bratan

BULELENG

Lovina

Singaraja

AMARIS

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2015

75

H

enget

H

Jl. Petit

H

V

R

Gado Gado

ix

le S

Jemme Cafe

Jl. Mertasari

uk

S

H

Kartika Plaza

S

Road

W

H

Kuta Square

Kuta Center

R

Gabah

Jl. Tegal Wangi

S

S

N E

S

S

Jl. kunti II

Istana Kuta Galleria

KUTA

Jl. Nakula

Jl. Plawa

Hard Rock Jl. Pantai Kuta

C

H

Mercure

Rosso Vivo

nset

Jl. kunti I

Jl. Su

Kuta Sea View

Kuta beach

H R

Harris

Beachwalk

H

H

Istana rama

Jl. Melasti

Legian Beach

H

Jl.

a Padm

Amaris Legian

ra

Discovery Shopping Mall

LEGEND: + Medical C Cafe H Hotel M Market M Museum S Shopping R Restaurant V Villa CD Corps Diplomatique

H

kuda Jl. Wer

Jl. Arjuna

Jl. Camplung Tand

Jl. Laksamana

a Uta

adm

Jl. P

oub

Jl. D

Jl. Raya Basangkasa

Jl. Raya Seminyak

C

uta

tai K

Pan

aya

ra

Jl. Raya Kerobokan

a

dew

aha

Jl. S

Jl. Mertanadi

ian

Jl. Leg

Jl. Tangkuban Perahu

apahit Jl. Maj

Jl. R

za

aP la

rtik

Ka

Jl.

an

Jl. Raya Tub

n Da

au

Be

Tuah

ra

ta

S

N

H

Czech Rep. Consulate

Mercure

Jl. Danau Poso

Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai

W

CD

Jl. Danau Buyan

E

Jl. Tegeh Agung

n

H

Italy Consulate

SANUR

Jl. Tukad Bilok

Jl.

Jl. Hang

CD

Sanur Beach

H

ah

M Le Mayeur

H

Telaga Naga

R

Jl. Sindu Sindu Beach

CD

Sweden & Finland Consulate

Bali Hyatt

C

Batu Jimbar

The Village

LEGEND: + Medical C Cafe H Hotel M Market M Museum S Shopping R Restaurant CD Corps Diplomatique

H

H

H

Sector

C

Inna Grand Bali Beach

Jl. Segara Ayu

Puri Santrian

French Consulate

CD

Sanur Paradise Plaza Suite

Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai

H

ng Tu

Sanur Paradise Plaza

H

Jl. Ha

i

Jl. Batubelig

J

Kuta aya Jl. R

i h Ra gura ss N l. By pa

Jl.

S

et Road latan

H

inge

en

G

iM

H

H

Grand Nikko Bali Resort & Spa

H

nta

gia

t

H

Art Market

Medical Center

SAKALA

Tao Bali

Melia Bali

The Laguna

The Bay

LEGEND: + Medical C Cafe H Hotel M Market M Museum S Shopping R Restaurant G Golf CD Corps Diplomatique

Grand Hyatt Bali

R

Museum PasiďŹ ka

H

H

Bali Collection

M

Nusa Dua Beach Westin Resort

H H

H

Club Med Bali Kayumanis Nusa Dua

H

Art Market

S

H

Melia Benoa

The Royal Santrian

Conrad Bali

H

H

H

The Oasis

Aston Bali Resort

Grand Mirage

Ina Putri Bali

S

R R +

S

H Novotel Bali Benoa H The Bali Khama

Ayodya Resort bali

H

Bali National Golf Club

Pa

Clinic

+

Village Market uda

M iray

+

+

H

The St. Regis Bali Resort

Jl.

Jl. W

Amaris Pratama Nusa Dua

Dental Clinic

Clinic

H H

H

H

Fish Market

Ramada Benoa

The Mulia, Mulia Resort & Villas

+

Medical Center

Amanusa

Pem

Tragia

S

E

Jl. Pratama Raya

ai

a Se Nusa Du

H

The Bale

ntai

3

Jl. Pa

Jl. Kurusetra

W

N

NUSA DUA

M

Jl. Pratama

Danoya

Bali Galleria

hR

sar

Jl. Danau Tamblingan

ra

rta

gu

Me

sN

Jl.

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2015

as

Jl. Srikandi

76

a

The Seminyak

beroi

tam

The O Jl. Suns

Jl. P ra

W Hotel Jl. p By

To Denpasar

Bumbak

Subaksari

SEMER

Raya Semer Peng

uben

gan

KUWUM

ka

n

Perancak Temple

Pantai Brawa

TIBUBENENG

yan

Nela

~~ ~~ ~~ ~~

er

Canggu SurďŹ ng

BUMBAK

wa

em

Canggu River

Canggu Beach

Pantai Bra

aS

~~ ~~ ~~ ~~

International Community School

To Kerobokan

Ray

CANGGU

lec

un

g

UMALAS

Batub

Batubelig

elig

Gunung Tangkuban Perah

Batubelig

H W Bali

R

Villa Lumbung

H Jl. Raya Kerobokan

Petite

nget

KEROBOKAN CANGGU

Warisan Australian International School

KEROBOKAN

BATUBELIG

N T

E

Petitenget Temple

Petiteng

et

Bali Clinic Laksam

ana

Drupadi

Obero

a

Su

ns

KEDEWATAN

UBUD

To Kintamani

M

N

Neka Museum

man

Jl. Sandat

W

Jl. Tirta Ta

Jl. Campuhan

To Paya ng

an

SEMINYAK

Bida

kasa

Ay

H

yu

The Legian

aya

Basang

Ka

S

Jl. R

+

i

W

Mertanadi

~~ ~~ ~~ ~~

Batubelig Beach

u

State Prison of Kerobokan

Ke

Jl.

~~ ~~ ~~ ~~

Brawa Beach

LEGEND: + Medical T Tourism Spot H Hotel/Resort M Market M Museum S Shopping R Restaurant

Ra

ya

Ke

ro

bo

Dukun Indah

BRAWA

Ubud Palace

d

M man

H

wah

Maya Ubud Resort

Jl. IB

ede

Rai

Jl. Jemba

Forest nkey

R

Lamak

iwa

Medical

Cok Putra S

Jl. Sugr

+

Jl. Mo

+

Medical

Jl. Dewi Sita

AN

Jl. Andong Jl. Jero

Market

PENESTANAN

SAY

Ganding

Ubu

LEGEND: + Medical T Tourism Spot H Hotel/Resort M Market M Museum S Shopping R Restaurant

T

ok G

aya

ANDONG

Pusering Jagad Tample

Jl. C

Jl. R

M Antonio Blanco Museum

Jl. Hano

H Kayu Manis

Jl. Sand

Painting Museum

E S

TAMAN

M

at

Riv Ay

un

g

CAMPUHAN

Manik

er

H Four Season

Jl. Su

Jl. Kajeng

weta

UBUD

T

Penataran Sasih Tample

T Keboedan Tample

Monkey Forest

T

Jl. Nyuh bulan

PELIATAN KATIK LANTANG

NYUH KUNING

BEDULU

T

Elephant Cave

BALI&BEYONDRudana OCTOBER M 2015 Museum

To Denpasar

M Afchaeological Museum

PANGOSEKAN

77 TEGES

To Denpasar

To Kemenuh

TENGKULAK

To Gianyar

et

dari

Ro

ad

INFOINDEX

AIRLINES

Tel: (0361) 286-465, Fax: (0361) 286-408 E-mail: bali@honorary.mzv.cz

Renon, Denpasar Fax: (0361) 263-310 E-mail: rtc_bali@thaimail.com

■ AIRPORT OPERATOR Tel: (0361) 751-011

■ FRANCE

■ TIMOR LESTE

■ CATHAY PACIFIC AIRWAYS

Jl. Mertasari Gg. II No. 8, Sanur Tel: (0361) 285-485, Fax: (0361) 286-406 E-mail: consul@dps.centrin.net.id

Jl. Prof. Yamin No. 4, Renon, Denpsar Tel: (0361) 235-093, Fax: (0361) 235-092 E-mail: cgtl@dpsbali.com

■ GERMANY

■ UNITED STATES

Tel: (0361) 768-358, Fax: (0361) 768-369

Jl. Pantai Karang 17, Batujimbar, Sanur Tel: (0361) 288-535, Fax: (0361) 288-826 Email: germanconsul@bali-ntb.com

Jl. Hayam Wuruk 188, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 233-605, Fax: (0361) 222-426 E-mail: amcobali@indosat.net.id

■ ROYAL BRUNEI

■ HUNGARY

Tel: (0361) 757-292

■ SINGAPORE AIRLINES

Marintur, Jl. By Pass Ngurah Rai 219, Sanur.

Tel: (0361) 287-701, Fax: (0361) 287-456 Email: huconbali@telkom.net

Jl. I Gusti Ngurah Rai, Airport Tel: (0361) 936-8388, Fax: (0361) 936-8383

■ INDIA

■ GARUDA Jl. Jalan Sugianyar, 5 Denpasar

Jl. Raya Puputan 163, Renon - Denpasar Tel. (0361) 259-502/259-503 Fax.(0361) 259-505

Wisthi Sabha Building, 2nd Floor Ngurah Rai International Aiprort Call Centre: 0804-1-888888

■ CONTINENTAL MICRONESIA

Tel. (0361) 227-824, Fax: (0361) 226-298 24-hour access: 08071-807-807

■ MERPATI Jl. Gatot Subroto Tengah, 26 Denpasar Tel: (0361) 411-364 Airport Tel: (0361) 9351-011, ext. 5240/5242 Hotline: Tel: (0361) 722-740, 722-741

■ MANDALA AIRLINES Komp. Plaza Kertawijaya Jl. Diponogoro No. 98, Denpasar, Reservation Call center 08041234567

■ NGURAH RAI AIRPORT Tel/Fax: (0361) 759-761

HEALTH&MEDICAL

■ ITALY Lotus Enterprises Building Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai, Jimbaran Tel: (0361) 701-005, Fax: (0361) 701-005 E-mail: italconsbali @italconsbali.org

■ JAPAN Jl. Raya Puputan 170, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 227-628, Fax: (0361) 265-066 E-mail: denpasar@dp.mofa.go.jp

■ MALAYSIA Alam Kulkul Boutique Resort Jl. Pantai Kuta Tel: (0361) 752-520, Fax: (0361) 766-373 E-mail: info@consulmalaysia-bali.com

■ THAI INTERNATIONAL Grand Bali Beach Sanur, Tel: (0361) 288-141

■ QATAR AIRWAYS Discovery Kartika Plaza Hotel, South Kuta Beach Tel: (0361) 752-222; Fax: 753-788. Departure International Terminal, 2nd fl. – Room OP.II.8 East Wing Ngurah Rai International Airport Tel: (0361) 9360274; Fax : (0361) 9360275 ■ DEPARTURE Arrive at the airport two hours prior to departure. A Rp. 150,000 international departure tax is required. Domestic departure fee is Rp 75,000. No Fiscal tax-exempt to pay for Indonesian and expatriates holding KITAS for International departure. Ngurah Rai Intíl Airport, Tel: (0361) 751-011

■ MEXICO PT Puri Astina Putra Building Jl. Prof. Moh. Yamin 1A, Renon, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 223-266, Fax: (0361) 244-568 E-mail: consulmex@astinatravel.com

Call an ambulance by dialing 118, but it is a lot more practical and quicker to hire a taxi. Most hotels have on-call doctors on standby. For “Bali Belly”, Lomotil and Imodium eliminate symptoms, but not gastro-related infections. A fever along with symptoms requires doctor-prescribed antibiotics.

Drink as much liquid as possible. Isotonic drinks under various brand names are widely available and are known to replenish body hydration and replace fluids. For discomfort, diarrhea and cramping, drink strong, hot tea; avoid fruits and spicy foods.

Some day-biting mosquitoes carry dengue fever, but this is not a problem in tourist areas.

Bali is non-malarial and prophylaxis is not required. Mosquito bites, cuts or abrasions easily become infected in the tropics. Treat them immediately.

Drink only bottled or boiled water. Peel fruit before eating; avoid raw vegetables except at reputable restaurants. Ice in restaurants is safe.

Protect yourself from the intense equatorial sun.

Use high SPF sunblock and a hat.

AIDS and sexually transmitted diseases are increasing in Indonesia. Local sex workers have multiple partners from around the world.

They are not checked for sexually transmitted diseases. Act responsibly and use condoms, available over the counter at pharmacies.

■ NETHERLANDS

■ ROYAL DANISH Sunset Road No. 89 Ruko Sunset Indah I Kav. 3 Tel: (0361) 821-6979, Fax: (0361) 7666-38 E-mail: danishconsbali@gmail.com

CLINIC&HOSPITAL 24-hour emergency medical clinic services, medical evacuation, multilingual staff.

Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai 505X, Kuta 80361 Tel: (0361) 710-505, Fax: (0361) 710-515

(ARMA) Ubud, Tel: (0361) 976-659, Fax: 974-229.

Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud, open daily 8 am-6pm

■ ABIAN KAPAS Jl. Nusa Indah, East Denpasar Tel: (0361) 227-176

■ ANTONIO BLANCO Ubud , Tel: (0361) 975-502, 975-551 open daily 8 am-5 pm

■ ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM Pejeng, Tel: (0361) 942-352 Open 8 am - 3 pm weekdays

■ GEDONG KIRTYA HISTORICAL LIBRARY Tel: (0362) 25141, Jl. Veteran, Singaraja. Open 7am - 3pm Monday Thursday, until Fridaynoon, closed on weekends

■ GALLERY SENIWATI Jl. Ubud Raya, Gianyar. Tel: (0361) 975-485

■ MUSEUM BALI Tel: (0361) 235-059, 222-680, Jl. Let. Kol Wisnu, Denpasar

■ MUSEUM LE MAYEUR Tel: (0361) 286-164, Jl. Hang Tuah, Sanur.

Open 8 am - 2 pm, Tuesday - Sunday.

■ MUSEUM MANUSA YADNYA Mengwi, open daily, but often unattended

■ MUSEUM NEKA Tel: (0361) 975-074, 975-034, Jl. Raya Campuan, Ubud open daily 9 am - 5 pm.

Tel: (0361) 975-136, 971-159, Jl. Raya Ubud, Ubud, www.mpl-ubud.com

■ MUSEUM RUDANA Tel: (0361) 975-779, 976-479, Peliatan, Ubud

■ MUSEUM SUBAK Tel: (0361) 810-315, Jl. Raya Kediri, Desa Sanggulan, Tabanan

■ BIMC Hospital Kuta ■ POLAND

■ BRITAIN

■ SPAIN

■ BIMC Hospital Nusa Dua

Jl. Tirta Nadi 20, Sanur, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 270-601, Fax: (0361) 287-804 E-mail: bcbali@dps.centrin.net.id

Istana Kuta Galeria, Blok Vallet 2, No. 11 Jl. Patih Jelantik, Kuta Tel: (0361) 769-296, Fax: (0361) 769-296 E-mail: espana_bali@blueline.net.id

24h Accident and Emergency Centre, 24h Medical Centre, international standard hospital with fully equipped ambulances, emergency room, intensive care unit, operating theatres, radiology and pathology, ward rooms, international and multilingual team of medical experts, CosMedic Centre, Dialysis Centre, Dental Centre.

Kawasan BTDC, Blok D, Nusa Dua 80363, Tel: (0361) 3000-911, Fax: (0361) 3001-150

NEW ZEALAND Jl. Tantular No. 32, Renon - Denpasar 80234 Tel: (0361) 241-118, Fax: (0361) 221-195 E-mail: bali.congen@dfat.gov.au www.bali.indonesia.embassy.gov.au

■ AGUNG RAI MUSEUM OF ART

■ INTERNATIONAL SOS CLINIC

Jl.Gunung Agung 93, Denpasar 80118 Tel: (0361) 426-171, Fax: (0361) 426-477 E-mail: konsulslowakbali@yahoo.com

■ AUSTRALIA, CANADA,

MUSEUMS

■ MUSEUM PURI LUKISAN

KCB Travel, Jl. Raya Kuta 127, Kuta Tel: (0361) 761-502, Fax: (0361) 752-777 E-mail: dutchconsulate@kcb-tours.com

24h Accident and Emergency Centre, 24h Medical Centre, international standard hospital with fully equipped ambulances, emergency room, intensive care unit, operating theatres, radiology and pathology, ward rooms, international and multilingual team of medical experts, CosMedic Centre for non-invasive and invasive cosmetic and aesthetic treatments.

Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai 100X, Kuta 80361 Tel: (0361) 761-263, Fax: (0361) 767-701

CONSULATES

■ RUMAH SAKIT UMUM PUSAT SANGLAH (General Hospital): Jl. Diponegoro, Sanglah, Denpasar. Tel: (0361) 227-911/15

Jl. Raya Petitenget No. 11, Block I/C, Banjar Umasari, Kerobokan Tel: (0361) 732-165, Fax: (0361) 732-165 E-mail: consul@balipolandconsulate.com

■ SLOVAKIA

TOURIST INFO. ■ INTEGRATED TOURISM INFORMATION CENTER (ITIC) A one-stop tourist information complex of ten provinces in Indonesia comprising Bali, Lampung, Jakarta, Banten, West Java, Central Java, East Java, Jogjakarta. Jl. Raya Kuta 2, Kuta, 80361; Tel: (0361) 766-188

■ NGURAH RAI INTERNATIONAL

■ BRAZIL Jl. Raya Legian No. 186, Kuta Tel: (0361) 757-775, Fax: (0361) 751-005 E–mail: brazilconsul@bali.net

■ SWEDEN & FINLAND Segara Village Hotel, Jl. Segara Ayu Tel: (0361) 282-211, Fax: 282-211 E-mail: sweconsul@yahoo.com

■ CHILE Jl. Jl. Pengembak Gg 1 No. 3, Sanur, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 756-781, Fax: (0361) 756-783 E-mail: chilehonconsulate@bali-villa.com

■ SWITZERLAND & AUSTRIA Jl. Ganetri 9 D, Gatot Subroto Timur, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 264-149, Fax: (0361) 243-747 E-mail: bali@honrep.ch

■ CZECH REPUBLIC Jl. Pengembak 17 Sanur.

■ THAILAND Jl. Puputan Raya No. 81,

78

■ SILOAM HOSPITALS 24-hour emergency 779-911 Jl. Sunset Road No. 818, Kuta, Badung, Bali Tel: +62-361-779-900 E-mail: info.bali@siloamhospitals.com

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2015

AIRPORT Tel: (0361) 751-011

■ BADUNG GOVERNMENT TOURISM OFFICE Jl. Kuta Raya 2, Kuta Tel: (0361) 756-175/76 ■ BALI GOVERNMENT TOURISM OFFICE Jl. Supratman, Niti Mandala, Renon, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 222-387 ■ SINGARAJA TOURIST INFORMATION OFFICE Jl. Veteran 23, Singaraja Tel: (0362) 251-41

■ UBUD TOURIST INFORMATION SERVICE Jl. Raya Ubud, Gianyar Tel: (0361) 96-285, 973-285; 8 am - 9 pm

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