THE SUN... THE SAND... THE SURF... THE CULTURE OF PARADISE AND OVER 18,000 SURROUNDING ISLANDS
O C T O B E R 2 015 VOLUME 17 NO. 185
TRADITIONAL
TEXTILE
PART OF OUR MODERN LIVES
WAYANG ORANG
BHARATA
A JAVANESE CULTURAL SHOW IN THE CAPITAL
MADE IN INDONESIA AUTHENTIC ICONS
www.baliandbeyond.co.id
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TEAMTALK
MADE IN INDONESIA ‘Om Swastiastu...’ Indonesia is a land in the Far East where the sun shines brightly almost all year long, and is home to much cultural diversity. And to say that it is rich with natural beauty is surely an understatement – from hidden pristine beaches to hectares of rice fields, from lush jungles to massive lakes, from various sea creatures to the top of the mountains higher than the clouds. Not to mention the history that goes all the way back to the glorious kingdoms of hundreds, if not thousands, of years ago. There are a lot of reasons for tourists and travelers to fall in love with Indonesia – one of them being the friendly local people with their great sense for art, which you can see in their traditional fabrics and costumes like Batik, Songket, and Kebaya. Flip through our
COVER Photo by Made Yudistira
‘CRAFT & CULTURE’ to see the history of these textiles and costumes, and how they have now become a part of our modern lives. A photo collection by Made Yudistira in ‘FOTO FOLIO’ will also take you to see a number of traditional dances with intricate costumes and makeup. In this issue we will take you exploring for all that is truly Indonesian in Ubud as well. Get pampered with Manis Klepon, a signature treatment at the DaLa Spa in the Alaya Resort Ubud, which is inspired by klepon, an Indonesian traditional snack – find out all about it in ‘INVITE & INDULGE.’ Stay at the newly opened Mandapa, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve that will let you absorb the positive atmosphere of the lush greenery and also let you learn about the Balinese rice culture, which we reveal in ‘REST & RELAXATION.’ When you are visiting Jakarta, don’t forget to catch a performance by Wayang Orang Bharata, a Javanese human puppet show that our contributor Agi R. Andante shares in ‘CAPITAL CORNER.’ And if you are looking for more untouched beaches in Indonesia, head to the Selayar Islands that lie south of South Sulawesi – find out about our adventure in this pristine paradise in ‘BEYOND BALI.’ So, we wish you happy times while discovering all that is unique in this archipelago and, of course, welcome to Indonesia! ‘Om Shanti Shanti Shanti Om…’ The Team
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BALI & BEYOND General Manager GOESTAMAR ARDIBRATA goestamar@baliandbeyond.co.id Senior Editor RISTY NURRAISA risty@baliandbeyond.co.id Junior Editor JOSEPH WANG joseph@baliandbeyond.co.id Editorial Advisors A.A. GEDE RAI, JOHN M. DANIELS Graphic Advisor WENIAR PRAMESTI Senior Graphic Designer I PUTU PARTAJAYA putu@baliandbeyond.co.id Web & Graphic Designer MELIYANA SANTOSO meli@baliandbeyond.co.id Advertising & MarComm. Manager D. ARIEF SENOAJI arief@baliandbeyond.co.id Senior Advertising Sales Executive MEE WAURAN mee@baliandbeyond.co.id Advertising Sales Executive I PUTU RAI SUTRISMA rai@baliandbeyond.co.id F&A Supervisor A.A. KETUT SUKERTI agung@baliandbeyond.co.id Accounting Staff KADEK YULI MARISNA yuli@baliandbeyond.co.id GA & Personnel Adm GEDE ADARA adara@baliandbeyond.co.id Distribution NYOMAN TRI HARIAN SAPUTRA nyoman@baliandbeyond.co.id
Contributors AGI R. ANDANTE, BAYU RAHANATHA, MADE YUDISTIRA, NADIA BINTORO, PAUL V. WALTERS Jakarta Marketing Services/Subscription RISKA WAHYUNINGSIH riska.wahyuningsih@baliandbeyond.co.id Phone : 021 - 2765 1717 / 1718 Ext. 7344 Fax : 021 - 2765 1716 Publisher PT. BUMI DIAN KUSUMA Commissioner SOETIKNO SOEDARJO Director MAULANA INDRAGUNA SUTOWO Division Head MRA Printed Media INDRIATI WIRJANTO
Printing PT. SUBURMITRA GRAFISTAMA, JAKARTA OFFICE Gedung Bali White House - Block IV Jl. Dewi Sri No. 23, Kuta 80361- Bali Tel: 085 100 868601, 085 100 868602 Fax: +62 361 750075 E-mail:mag@baliandbeyond.co.id http://www.baliandbeyond.co.id
Bali & Beyond Magazine is published monthly by PT. Bumi Dian Kusuma under the direction of MRA Media, Jakarta. Although every care is taken, neither the publishers nor any of their designees assume responsibility for the opinions and information expressed by editorial contributors. All material in this publication is copyrighted and cannot be reproduced without written permission of the publisher or author. All trademark and rights to Bali & Beyond are reserved by PT Bumi Dian Kusuma. Editorial materials may be submitted for consideration to the editorial office. Bali & Beyond is not responsible for the return of unsolicited material. © 2006 Bali & Beyond ISSN 0216-4590
A member of
Endorsed by
CONTRIBUTORS
BALI GOVERNMENT TOURISM OFFICE Jl. S. Parman, Niti Mandala Renon, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 222 387, 226 313 Fax: (0361) 226 313
www. skal.org skalbali@dps.centrin.net.id
AGI R. ANDANTE
BAYU RAHANATHA
MADE YUDISTIRA
is a Jakarta-based travel writer. She began her professional carrier as a journalist, living in Bali for a year, then moved back to Jakarta to chase another dream.
is a lecturer at Udayana University and a Marketing Communication specialist. He recently started his own business in tourism yet still finds time to continue his writing hobby.
is a programmer on the weekdays and a photographer on the weekends. He loves exploring new places, local culture and people, then sharing their stories through photos. Check out his photo collection on www.flickr.com/ myudistira.
NADIA BINTORO
PAUL V. WALTERS
took a master’s degree in International Multimedia Journalism at the University of Newcastle, and now has turned her passion for writing and traveling into a series of travel pieces published in a number of media, and is working for an international environmental organization.
is the best selling author of several novels. In addition, he writes for numerous travel journals around the world. His latest book, “Looking For Lionel”, and other stories go into wide release in June 2015. 8
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THE SUN... THE SAND... THE SURF... THE CULTURE OF PARADISE AND OVER 18,000 SURROUNDING ISLANDS
contents 10.15 OCTOBER 2015 Volume 17 No. 185
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TRENDY TRADITION
DALA SPA
The history and the use of traditional Indonesian textiles
INVITE&INDULGE Manis Klepon, a treatment inspired by a traditional Indonesian snack
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SEEK IN SILENCE
PHOTOS & FUN FACTS
Contemplating at the Bali Silent Retreat
Snapshots and quotes picked up throughout August and September
LIFESTYLE&LEISURE
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SIGHTS&SOUNDS
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REST&RELAXATION NEW OLD BALI
Stay at Mandapa, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve for a luxurious getaway
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PONDERING&POINT “SEMUA BISA DIATUR”
Paul V. Walters shares why he loves living in Bali
FOTOFOLIO
THE DANCING SPIRIT Some sacred Balinese traditional dances captured by Made Yudistira
DINE&DELIGHTS
WHEN EAST MEETS WEST
+ 14 PRIMEPROMOTION Hot deals and promotions of the month that shouldn’t be missed
18. NEW&NEWS
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Remarkable dishes with an Asian twist at SPICE by Chris Salans
This month’s select news updates from the island’s tourism industry and what’s new around the island
68 BEYONDUPDATES News updates from the tourism industry and what’s new beyond Bali
70 COMMUNITYCALENDAR Schedules, calendar highlights and various happenings of interest, from art exhibitions to special events
72 SEE&SEEN
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Snapshots of events and happenings within the preceding month
PROFILE&PORTRAIT BATIK AND BAMBOO
74 BALIMAPS
Batik Geek is creating phone casings with Indonesian icons
Map of Bali showing specific tourism areas and places of interest, as well as a distance scale between the island’s main destinations
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SHOPPINGSPREE
78 INFOINDEX
MY HERO
Cool T-Shirts by Bloodless Coup
Useful directory of companies and island-based businesses 10
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FIRST COLUMN PHOTO COURTESY OF SPICE BY CHRIS SALANS, SECOND COLUMN PHOTO BY MADE YUDISTIRA, THIRD COLUMN PHOTO COURTESY OF ALLURA
CRAFT&CULTURE
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THE SUN... THE SAND... THE SURF... THE CULTURE OF PARADISE AND OVER 18,000 SURROUNDING ISLANDS
contents 10.15 OCTOBER 2015
Volume 17 No. 185
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BEYONDBALI
THE WARRIOR DANCE
Capoeira, a beautiful synergy of self-defense and dance
SAIL TO SELAYAR Revealing the untouched beauty of the Selayar Islands
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CAPITALCORNER
JAVA MASTERPIECE
Watching Wayang Orang Bharata in the capital city
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TOP PHOTO COURTESY BY RISTY NURRAISA BOTTOM PHOTO BY CAPOEIRA BALI
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ACTION&ATTRACTION
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PRIMEPROMOTION
MUSICAL NIGHT On October 30, don’t miss the performance of talented violinist Fakhri Bagus Pratama at the Balai Raya Ballroom at The Laguna Bali. Fakhri, who learned to play the violin from the late legendary Indonesian violist Idris Sardi, has been wowing audiences not just in Indonesia but also in Vienna, Geneva, and Prague. Want to catch his show? The tickets are priced at Rp. 100,000 net/person, but you can also enjoy at sumptuous dinner buffet at the Banyubiru Restaurant along with the music for Rp. 550,000 net/person for adults and Rp. 325,000 net/child. This musical night will benefit the UNICEF Check Out for Children Challenge. The Laguna, a Luxury Collection Resort & Spa BTDC Lot N2, Nusa Dua (0361) 300-5503, www.thelagunabali.com
STYLISH SILK Allura proudly introduces their latest design called “The Beauty of Indonesia: Wearable Silk Art”, a limited edition offering of their stylish silk printed with images of the natural beauty of Indonesia captured by eight travelers, including Flores by Aima Farhana and Tanjung Bira by Mesty Ariotedjo. Other designs boast Raja Ampat, Ijen Crater, Mount Bromo, Mount Papandayan, and Wakatobi. Allura is also donating 10 percent of every sale to Yayasan Sayap Ibu. Log on to their website to check out these beautiful designs. www.allurastore.com
Imagine a plate of golden fried soft shell crabs that are super crispy and yet soft at the same time, so they virtually melt on the first bite. Tempted? All you have to do is come to the Golden Lotus Chinese Restaurant at the Bali Dynasty Resort and choose from their soft shell crab menu called “Ruan Ke Xie.” Available at Rp. 88,000 net per portion for three people, this dish is served with three different choices of flavors– you can opt to have it cooked with butter and salted egg, butter and oat sauce, or chili and garlic. Don’t waste time, as this special menu is only available until November 30. Golden Lotus Chinese Restaurant Bali Dynasty Resort, Jalan Kartika, Tuban, Kuta (0361) 752-403, www.balidynasty.com
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ALL COURTESY PHOTOS
SOFT SHELL SURPRISE
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PRIMEPROMOTION
LET’S RIDE! What are your plans on a Thursday night? If you’re up to getting some adrenaline pumping, just head to the Waterbom Bali and join their “Flow & Feast,” where you get to ride their Flow Rider by the hour. And you can also relish some delish dishes at the THAITALIAN Theatre Kitchen Café and sip some refreshing drinks at the bar. The weekend comes early for sure! Waterbom Bali Jalan Kartika, Tuban, Kuta (0361) 755-676 www.waterbom-bali.com
YOGA TREAT This October, Mulia Bali proudly launches their first ever Mulia Spa Wellness, available for a full day (five to six hours) or half day (four hours). This special package consists of Yoga Stretching and Aqua Aerobics at Mulia’s garden, and is combined with healthy cuisine and spa treatments such as facials and massages. The Mulia Spa Wellness also gives guests access to the resort’s Wellness Suite, including their Ice Room. Not only that, this October the Mulia Spa also launches their natural beauty products for retail sales. The Mulia, Mulia Resorts & Villas – Nusa Dua, Bali Jalan Raya Nusa Dua Selatan, Kawasan Sawangan, Nusa Dua (0361) 301-7777 www.themulia.com
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ALL COURTESY PHOTOS
GERMAN TASTE Good news for foodies! The Mercure Resort Sanur is bringing you fantastic some German flavors by hosting “Octoberfest on the Beach.” Held on October 23 and 24 from 6.30 p.m. to 10 p.m., and on October 25 from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m., this food festival offers a great selection of German dishes and 10 international beers, and will even be merrier with a Sunday market. Don’t forget to come hungry! Mercure Resort Sanur Jalan Mertasari, Sanur (0361) 288-833, www.mercureresortsanur.com
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NEW&NEWS
COFFEE TIME Coffee connoisseurs now have a great new place to get a perfect cup of coffee on this island. Grain Espresso, a newly opened café and bistro, offers unique coffee blends that are made of 100% Arabica beans – try their Indonesian Single Origin coffee – along with all day breakfast, bistro favorites, and Asian classic dishes. The café offers a high-speed internet connection and meeting space. Grain Espresso Jalan Seminyak No. 16B info@grainespresso.com www.grainespresso.com
HAPPY SHOPPING!
ALL COURTESY PHOTOS
Looking for some stylish and comfortable clothes for your children, or even for yourself? The good news is that DUDUK, a Jakarta-based brand helmed by two Dutch designers, is now available at selected retailers in Bali. Just head out to Carga Utama in Petitenget or Little Fox in Kuta and find their great products made of hand-stamped and hand-dyed Batik. DUDUK also offers a range of tipi tents made of cotton with bamboo poles and comfortable pillows, which are available at Indigo Kids on Jalan Laksmana in Seminyak, and at Alun Alun Bali at the Sogo Department Store as well. www.dudukshop.com
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NEW&NEWS
LADIES NIGHT OUT This October, ilLido Bali is ready to please your palate with their new four-course Dinner Set Menu that is curated from the specials in their la carte menu – expect Grilled Octopus with Nduja, Snapper with Fennel and Beetroot, and Rum and Raisin Coulant with Orange Chocolate Gelato. A Lunch Set Menu is also available featuring seasonal ingredients and the chef’s specials that will surprise you each day. And for the ladies, you shouldn’t miss out on Ladies’ Night each Wednesday. Priced at Rp. 600,000++, Ladies’ Night at the ilLido Bali will gratify you and your best friends with their three-course menu and free-flow Prosecco, starting at 6 p.m. and finishing at 10.30 p.m. ilLido Bali Jalan Raya Kerobokan No. 38 (0361) 731-175, www.illidobali.com
HELPING HANDS Partnering with Yayasan Solemen Indonesia, the Grand Aston Bali Beach Resort in Tanjung Benoa gives back to society by helping the less fortunate people in Bali – the hotel recently collected donations directly from the hotel guests at the checkout counter, and all funds were given to Yayasan Solemen Indonesia. Not only that, the Grand Aston Bali Beach Resort also hosted a fun event for the less privileged children, taking them swimming in the pool and giving them the opportunity to meet with hotel guests. Grand Aston Bali Beach Resort Jalan Pratama No. 68X, Tanjung Benoa (0361) 773-577, www.grandastonbali.com
For the third time in three consecutive years, Hatten Wines again won a number of medals at the China Wine & Spirits Awards in Hong Kong, the biggest and the most prestigious wine and spirits competition in China. And this year, Hatten Wines brought home a total of eight medals! Their Aga White and Alexandria were awarded gold medals, the Sparkling Rose Jepun and Sparkling Brut Tunjung won silver, while the Rosé took home a bronze and the Pino de Bali earned a double gold. Congratulations! www.hattenwines.com
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ALL COURTESY PHOTOS
WINNER WINE
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CRAFT&CULTURE
TRENDY TRADITION REVEALING THE HISTORY BEHIND SOME OF INDONESIA’S TRADITIONAL FABRICS AND COSTUMES, AND HOW THEY BECOME PART OF OUR MODERN LIVES…
BATIK
Papua also have their own version of
experts, the history
One of the most famous fabrics in
Batik, with no proof of any influence
of Indonesian textiles
Indonesia, Batik is basically made
from the Hindu pilgrims.
begins around the
with a wax-resist dyeing technique –
8th century B.C. with
a technique that has been practiced
be the ones who developed Batik to
the use of leaves, wood, and simple
by the Egyptians since the 4th
its best potential. Each king of the
weaving techniques. By the 3
Javanese royalty are believed to
century B.C. The Chinese actually
Javanese royalty had his very own
century B.C., the highland Chinese
also had their own version of fabric
Batik pattern, especially designed
wanderers arrived in Indonesia and
using this particular technique, as
by the royalty designers to meet
introduced the very first modern
well as the Japanese, Malaysians,
the king’s personality. By the year
weaved textile. Indonesia has 45
and Africans. But it was the Hindu
1900, Indonesian Batik designs
different types of trees across the
pilgrims who introduced this fabric
were transported by the Indonesian
archipelago that can be used as raw
along with its many patterns –
scholars to many different countries
materials for fabrics, and eventually
all were made in India – to the
including Malaysia and the
those natural resources put Indonesia
Indonesians.
Netherlands – so Batik became very
rd
on the map of the textile industry as
The Indonesians then developed
the locals started to create their own
a similar type of dyeing process with
fabric. To date, there are thousands
a unique pattern that is now known
that makes Batik stand out and
of traditional fabrics and costumes
as Batik. However, archeologist F.A.
be recognized as an Indonesian
across Indonesia, and some of them
Sutjipto believes that this dyeing
heritage, but also the pattern that
are now taking on the world, like
technique for Batik is originally from
is related to the country’s ancient
Batik, Songket, and the Kebaya for
Indonesia, as some parts of the
history. In 2009, UNESCO
example.
archipelago like Toraja, Flores, and
announced Indonesian Batik as a
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popular. It is not only the craftsmanship PHOTOS BY JOSEPH WANG
A
ccording to some
Masterpiece of Oral and Intangible
and Arab merchants. The Sriwijaya
Heritage of Humanity to support
kingdom, with its capital city located
Indonesia in preserving this cultural
in Palembang, Sumatra, is thought
heritage.
to be one of the first royals to use
Batik is a must-have garment for
Songket in their daily lives. Not only
Indonesians. This fabric used to be
in Sumatra, Songket is also found
only for formal attire in traditional
in Kalimantan, Sulawesi, Lombok,
ceremonies and celebrations, but
Sumbawa, and Bali.
now Batik has become casual
There are two stages in producing
wear for daily activities. Clothing
Songket; first is to create the fabric
designs using Batik fabric are now
base, then to make the pattern using
varied due to the huge demand –
threads. In Bali, the Songket designs
chic skirts, stylish tops, and more,
have been modified to meet the
so Batik has become a trend in
market trend – you can find Songket
today’s pop culture. Yogyakarta
with patterns using gold, silver, or
is the mecca of Batik in Indonesia,
other colorful threads. Klungkung is
but you can also find this textile in
the center of Songket production in
other parts of Java, Bali, and many
the island, but that doesn’t mean you
Kebaya is considered to represent
other areas of Indonesia.
have to go all the way to Klungkung
the most ideal concept of
to find it, because Songket is
femininity. The Kebaya also holds
available in most art markets in Bali.
a philosophical value that reminds
SONGKET This hand-woven fabric made of silk
Kebaya was announced as the national costume of Indonesia in the ‘40s
To Indonesian women, the
the nation of the fight for women’s
or cotton with gold or silver-thread
KEBAYA
rights. In the ‘40s, the Indonesia’s
patterns is believed to have been
This traditional Indonesian female
first President Ir. Soekarno
introduced to Indonesia by Indian
top is made of silk, thin cotton,
announced the Kebaya as the
and nylon with floral embroidery.
national costume of Indonesia.
Songket are available with patterns using gold, silver, or other colorful threads
The Kebaya is usually paired with
Lately, more Indonesian fashion
a sarong for formal occasions like
designers are striving to make the
traditional ceremonies in Java, Bali,
Kebaya part of our modern lives.
and Sumatra.
Years ago the Kebaya could only be
The Kebaya was originally
paired with Batik or other traditional
inspired by the Arab and Chinese
Indonesian fabrics, but now you can
travelers who came to Indonesia in
see it in modern looks anywhere.
the 15th century. Prior to 1600, the
You can even wear a Kebaya with a
Kebaya was only for the royal and
pair of trousers or a skirt. If you are
noble families while others remained
looking for a Kebaya to bring back
topless. With the influence of the
home, just go straight to any local
Muslim pilgrims that women should
art market in Indonesia, including
cover themselves, it didn’t take long
in Bali, and find one that is most
for the Kebaya to become one of the
suitable for you.
characteristics of Indonesian ladies.
By Bayu Rahanatha
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LIFESTYLE&LEISURE
SEEK IN SILENCE TAKE A DEEP BREATH AND FIND YOUR INNER PEACE…
A
s human beings,
Ubud as its capital. But faraway
a common lounge, and a meditation
can we ever stop
in the middle of the quaint village
bale – all are surrounded by
talking? When our
of Mongan in Tabanan, Bali Silent
rice paddies and dense tropical
phone is glued
Retreat had me captivated with its
jungle. The rooms are modest yet
to our hand and
humble charm.
comfortable, but please note that
becomes the extension of our limbs,
there is no designated butler to
it’s hard to imagine a day without
THE ASHRAM
serve you. Once you are done with
“communicating.” Yet over the
Nestled in a four-hectare parcel
registration, you will be given a bag
years, the silent retreat has become
of land and amidst the tranquil
with a set of linens, towels, and a
a new trend, even among celebrities
atmosphere of a village, Bali
blanket – yes, you will need to set up
like Oprah and Gisele Bundchen.
Silent Retreat is the place to be
your own room.
And of course Bali is the leading
for rejuvenation and restoration.
But don’t be intimidated just yet.
place for this experience, as the
The retreat is a building complex
Bali Silent Retreat is not as strict as
island is considered to be a mecca
designed in ashram style,
other meditation retreats, where
for healing and meditation, with
encompassing an accommodation,
even eye contact and talking are
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BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2015
forbidden. This retreat is open to
very own garden. This place truly
morning class I came across and
anyone, and has no fixed schedule
highlights the meaning of meditation;
shared a smile with some local
for any practices aside from regular
to be conscious of your own energy
farmers who were ready to start their
activities like the morning and
source and consumption, be it
work for the day. This majestic view
evening meditation and yoga. The
electricity or food.
of Mount Batu Karu and the rice
morning class starts at 6 a.m., while
Guided by Luke, the volunteer
paddies, and the humble smiles from
the evening class has a more flexible
instructor of the night, eight guests
the locals already calmed my mind.
schedule.
sat in circle in the octagon bale for
I felt even more at peace as my
the Chakra Balancing class. The
morning meditation began, followed
activities such as walks around the
There are also spontaneous
class helped me go deeper into my
by some Hatha yoga for relaxation.
rice paddies, a jungle tour, and a
subconscious to balance each of my
trip to a hot spring – though they
chakra points – I have to say, this
time for breakfast in the garden.
all depend on the availability of the
meditation soothed my mind and I
As a practitioner of slow food and
volunteers. But even if you don’t get
slept really well that night.
conscious eating, Head Chef Simon
to do these fun activities, it is not
Once the yoga was done, it was
The next morning, Mount Batu
Jongenotter introduced New Earth
a problem because actually doing
Karu greeted me from afar as I left
Cooking as a food philosophy that
nothing is much encouraged. After
my bungalow, and the golden rice
entails taking responsibility for
all, that’s why you come to a silent
paddies were spread out as far as
sourcing, preparing, and eating
retreat, isn’t it? To spend some time
my eyes could see. Walking to my
food in unprecedentedly unique
alone with the one person you need to take care of…yourself.
FINDING BALANCE On my first night I took my first meditation class, Chakra Balancing. Walking from my bungalow to the octagon bale I could feel the chilly night engulfing me, and saw almost nothing but darkness as the path had limited lighting – I’ve been warned that the electricity supply is limited – and I could hear some night animal sounds. This total silence was pretty intense. As a non-profit eco-community, Bali Silent Retreat employs extreme green measures. All electricity is generated from in-house solar panels; the water is derived from distilling a local spring, while all vegetables are harvested from their
The ashram offers tranquil atmosphere of a Balinese village
BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2015
25
pilings, each carrying a massive crystal rock on top. As you walk into the labyrinth, please be mindful with each step and feel the sensation as your feet touch the wet grass. You can also pray, depending on your belief. Meditating in a labyrinth is also believed to induce a receptive state of consciousness. As you Bali Silent Retreat holds on to the New Earth Cooking philosophy
meander back and forth in the labyrinth and your direction shifts, you also shift your awareness from right brain to left brain, and that
and healthy ways. The results are
And so I decided to meditate
selections of vibrant and healthy
in the labyrinth located next to the
meals that kept the guests munching
octagon bale, which turned out to
perhaps it’s the fresh air, but I did
on in silence.
be a highly personal experience.
feel a sense of freedom as I finally
It is a chance to ask yourself some
reached the inner center of the
FINDING PEACE
questions and find your own
labyrinth, so I decided to stay there
There is no agenda after breakfast,
answers. Meditating in a labyrinth
to absorb all the positivity from my
and guests are left to their own
is actually an ancient practice, and
surroundings. My mind started to get
devices. During this “me time”,
quite common in countries like India,
clear, and things began to unravel.
I was surprised to see how my
America, Egypt, and Indonesia – but
And in that total silence, I felt
mind wandered from one thing to
Bali Silent Retreat is the one and
peace.
another so quickly. And that’s how
only place in Bali that provides a
By Nadia Bintoro
meditation helps, not to calm the
labyrinth for meditation.
into perspective.
Surrounded by lush greenery, the labyrinth is cornered by eight
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BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2015
Perhaps it’s the lush trees,
Bali Silent Retreat www.balisilentretreat.com
PHOTOS BY NADIA BINTORO
mind but to observe and put things
helps improve your consciousness.
BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2015
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DINE&DELIGHTS
Prawn tempura served in “rujak” style
When East Meets West SPICE BY CHRIS SALANS IS A CASUAL RESTAURANT, WITH THE CHEF’S HIGH STANDARDS FOR FINE FOOD…
A
nyone who is already
Restaurant. Chef Salans now proudly
Mozaic Beach Club. However, this
familiar with Bali’s
opens his latest restaurant in Ubud,
affordable all-day gastro bar still
dining scene must
SPICE by Chris Salans, a casual
embraces the chef’s high standards
have heard about
food joint that shows a different
for food.
celebrity chef Chris
side of him as the restaurant is
Salans, famously known for his
a deliberate departure from the
FUNKY COCKTAILS
refined creations at the Mozaic
sophisticated Mozaic Restaurant and
SPICE by Chris Salans is located
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BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2015
on the side of Jalan Raya Ubud, so
Even before your food is served
after a long hot day. All drinks are
finding a parking spot might be quite
you will feel a whole different dining
made of exotic local ingredients with
a challenge if you drive a car. The
experience. First, the staff will give
a tasteful punch.
best way to visit the restaurant is to
you a form consisting of a list with
park near the Ubud traditional market
little boxes on the side. All you need
ASIAN TWIST
and walk your way down – this
to do is fill in the boxes with a
A wide selections of foods are
also gives you the chance to tune in
number that shows the size of portion
offered, from raw food such as
with the atmosphere of Ubud before
you want for that specific item.
carpaccio or tataki, to sliders. The
munching on the chef’s delish dishes.
Now that your orders are in, time
food is created with an exquisite
Once you get to the restaurant
to sip one of their funky cocktail
taste that is sure please your palate,
the staff will welcome you warmly
concoctions, like the Jackfruit or
and each plate is a perfect marriage
with a Balinese greeting. And as you
Kemangi infused Bourbon – they
between East and West that will
walk in, you can see that SPICE by
are also available in mocktails if
remind Indonesians and Westerners
Chris Salans is thoughtfully designed
you are not up for any alcoholic
of their homeland. SPICE by Chris
with plenty of natural light – you can
drinks. You can also opt for some
Salans also cleverly incorporates
opt to sit either by the bar and watch
young coconut water, which is true
ingredients you thought would never
the skillful team prepare your meal
to Ubud’s spirit of holistic healing. If
work together, but of course under
or at the communal table on the
you are with your kids, don’t worry
the supervision of Chef Chris Salans,
side of the window, while watching
as the little ones will surely love a
these ingredients become a mind-
people passing by on the street.
Jackfruit and Passionfruit Milkshake
blowing treat.
BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2015
29
The team behind fabulous food at SPICE by Chris Salans
a number of delectable vegetarian dishes for you. All of the ingredients at SPICE by Chris Salans are locally sourced, and most of the spices are indigenous to the Indonesian archipelago. SPICE by Chris Salans is open Tuesday through Saturday from 12 p.m. to 11 p.m. The restaurant also offers Lunch Express (Rp. 95,000++) from 12 p.m. to 2 p.m., a special package that includes a sandwich with the choice of tapioca fries or green salad on the side, and a cup of coffee. Or you can come for dinner to enjoy the four-course menu
Cocktails with a twist of indegenous ingredients of Indonesia
available at Rp. 275,000++. So after a long day of walking and shopping in Ubud, now you
My personal favorite is the Beef Carpaccio, which visually looks just like any other carpaccio. However,
Brisket fat noodles is the star of the
know where to go for a great dining
house.
experience. Just head out to SPICE
And what is a western restaurant
by Chris Salans and relish their
with the first bite you can taste the
without some good fries? But instead
uniquely delicious dishes.
Rendang flavor, which is absolutely
of serving regular French fries, SPICE
By Joseph Wang
brilliant. Another favorite is the Beef
by Chris Salans offers up a twist
brisket served with fat noodles. I
by using local Tapioca Roots and
SPICE by Chris Salans
have met a few people who have
serving them with Base Gede, an
Jalan Raya Ubud No. 23, Ubud
had lunch here, and every single
authentic Balinese mix of spices. For
(0316) 479-2420
one of them agreed that the Beef
vegetarians, the restaurant also has
www.spicebali.com
PHOTOS COURTESY OF SPICE BY CHRIS SALANS
Sit by the table, and watch Ubud’s life unravels while you are enjoying a cocktail
30
BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2015
BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2015
31
PROFILE&PORTRAIT
we already sold accessories for cell phones, we thought why not combine these two ideas: making accessories for gadgets with Indonesian designs. BB: What happened after you made that business plan? BG: Our lecturer enrolled us in Entrepreneurstar 2012, a competition by SBM Institut Teknologi Bandung. We won second place and used the prize money for research and to perfect our products. Then we did a market test on the internet, and surprisingly customers loved our products.
BATIK AND BAMBOO
By the end of 2014 we also received the 20 Top Product
THE BEAUTY OF INDONESIA IS NOW IN YOUR HANDS…
Bandung 2014 achievement by the Bandung governor. BB: Could you tell us about the process of making the
ade in Bandung, West Java, the
BG: First we make a bamboo block, which is quite
unique selection of phone casings
complicated because bamboo is different from wood – it
by Batik Geek are irresistible,
needs extra care in the production process. Then these
especially to those who admire
bamboo blocks are shaped using a CNC machine for
the beauty of Indonesian art.
high-quality precision, followed by doing the finishing
These phone casings are made of high-quality bamboo
touches by hand, before finally they are engraved with
and are engraved with icons of Indonesia in detailed
a detailed design using a special machine. Each of
designs such as Wayang (shadow puppets) characters,
our products uses polycarbonate, bamboo, suede, and
a Garuda, and batik patterns. To Bali & Beyond (BB),
synthetic leather. We also do detailed quality control on
Afrizal and Nurulita, the owners of Batik Geek (BG),
each product to make sure that they all have the same
open up about their business.
level of quality.
BB: How did you first start this business?
BB: How do you decide on the design and the designers?
BG: We started by selling a bunch of products on
BG: First we settle on the concept, like which icons we
the internet in 2009, among them accessories for cell
want to expose and how the design should be. Then
phones. In 2012 we wanted to do something more
we research their philosophy and values – we try to
serious so we did a little bit of research. At that time
find as many sources as we can, like reading books,
we also had an assignment from a lecturer to make
going to museums, interviewing cultural expertise, or
a business plan. So we decided to create a business
visiting traditional fabric artisans. Once we got all the
plan that we hoped would become a real business in
information we need, we collaborate with a designer
the future. In 2011 and 2012, Aztec
whose style and visions are in line with
and tribal motives became a trend in
our concept – we collaborate with a
Indonesia and caught our attention.
lot of designers, and each of them has
After traveling to some other areas in
their own unique style. Sometimes, we
Indonesia, we realized that this country
(Nurulita and Afrizal) do some designs
has amazing inspirations for designs.
on our own from scratch.
We wanted to bring Indonesian
Like we mentioned before, we
motives and icons to a whole new level
started this business when we were
and help preserve our heritage. Since
still in college, majoring in Visual
32
BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2015
PHOTOS COURTESY OF BATIK GEEK
M
phone casings?
Communication Design. That’s when we first looked for talented designers in many forums and communities from all parts of Indonesia, like Yogyakarta, Jakarta, Bandung, and elsewhere. Sometimes, we also went to art exhibitions to see if there were any talented designers we could work with. BB: What are your visions in running this business? BG: We want Batik to become a part of the urban lifestyle – and of course, cell phones are a big part of modern life. We hope with Batik Geek, batik and other Indonesian art will always be in our customer’s hands. BB: To all young entrepreneurs who are interested in a creative business, what would you say? BG: Indonesia is rich with diverse cultural heritage that we can explore and mold into a business. The most important part is to start with what you like so that you can enjoy every part of the process. And of course, start now before anyone else “steals” your opportunity. BB: Are you planning on making more than phone casings? BG: For now we only offer bamboo phone casings, but we are currently brainstorming for other products that probably will be launched by end of this year or early next year. BB: Where can we find Batik Geek? BG: We are available at several online shops like Zalora, Lazada, Shopedeca, and more, and of course you can contact us via WhatsApp or text messages. You can also come to our store, or follow us at exhibitions in Jakarta and Bandung. As for outside Indonesia, we have exported our products to Germany, Canada, Holland, Switzerland, England, Korea, Japan, and more. By Risty Nurraisa Batik Geek Komp. Sariwangi Regency Blok Cemara II No. 9, Bandung, West Java 0856-4208- 6262, www.batikgeek.com
BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2015
33
COOL T-SHIRTS THAT REMIND US OF THE SPIRIT OF OUR FOUNDING FATHERS…
W
hen my
collections. I immediately contacted
Through their collections,
sister gave
them via email and got to talk to the
Bloodless Coup hopes their
me this
owners, and eventually found out
customers become interested in
T-shirt she
about their true visions.
finding out more about these heroes.
got from
All the prints are inspired by
“When they see someone wearing
Jakarta, I was captivated. With
real photos, then designed by hand
a shirt with the drawing of Sutan
the illustration of the late Mahatma
by owner/illustrator Syailendra
Syahrir (Indonesia’s Prime Minister
Gandhi printed in great detail on
Anggara with a little help from his
from 1945 to 1947), for instance,
the front, this white top is unlike any
wife, Oktariana. However, before
they will start asking questions about
that process began, Bloodless Coup
him, and eventually get to know him
did thorough research on each
better,” Anggara explains. “This is
of the figures to make sure they
a simple way for our customers to
understood the history of the hero.
learn a little bit more about history.”
Bloodless Coup also aims to invite
Bloodless Coup now has various
the young generations to reminisce
heroes printed on their T-shirts,
about the spirit of those who were
ranging from Indonesian leaders like
other. My sister then showed me
before us, and to never forget about
Pangeran Diponegoro, Adam Malik,
what she got for herself – a white
our founding fathers that made
and Bung Karno with Agus Salim,
shirt printed with an illustration of the
Indonesia – or the world for that
to world-class figures like Malcolm
late Muhammad Hatta, Indonesia’s
matter – as we know it today.
X and Mahatma Gandhi. All the
first vice president.
T-shirts are made of Gildan Soft
To find shirts with drawings of
Style, which is really comfortable
our heroes in this modern fashion
for daily wear, and are available at
industry is pretty rare I have to say,
Rp. 140,000.
and that’s why I think Bloodless
Interested? You can contact them
Coup is a brand to be reckoned
via email at syailendra_anggara@
with. I couldn’t resist my curiosity to
yahoo.com and WhatsApp at 0811
know more about the brand – and
807 411, or like their fan page on
of course, to find out what other
Facebook.
heroes they have printed on their
By Risty Nurraisa
34
BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2015
PHOTOS COURTESY OF BLOODLESS COUP
SHOPPINGSPREE
My Hero
BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2015
35
INVITE&INDULGE
The Sweetest Escape GET PAMPERED BY A SPECIAL TREATMENT FOR BRIGHTER SKIN, INSPIRED BY A TRADITIONAL INDONESIAN SNACK…
D
products at their Spa Classes. There are three spa lessons available; the Making of Jamu and Home Care Body Mask or Scrub (each at Rp. 395,000++) and Home Care Refresher Facial (Rp. 595,000++) – all are conducted prior to your treatment on a long table adjoining the spa lobby, where the fresh botanical ingredients are on display.
aLa is the Sanskrit
open-air pavilion, where the friendly
But even if you don’t take any
word for leaf – and
staff and the view of the rice paddies
of the classes, the therapist will still
a leaf is the symbol
greet you, you will forget that you
introduce you to the ingredients that
of the cycle of life as
are actually in downtown Ubud.
are going to be applied to your
well as a source of
This spa has a list of old
skin before your treatment begins.
nutrition. The DaLa Spa at the Alaya
Indonesian healing and beauty
On my visit I was up for one of
Ubud embraces the meaning of the
rituals, and uses homemade products
DaLa Spa’s signature treatments,
name perfectly by being a sanctuary
with the purest natural ingredients
the Manis Klepon – manis meaning
where you can recharge your mind,
– and the good news is that you
sweet and klepon is a traditional
body, and soul. As you walk into the
can learn how to make some of the
Indonesian snack made of rice
36
BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2015
powder, pandanus leaves, coconut, and palm sugar. Before taking me to the treatment room, my therapist explained all about the benefits of young coconut for my skin while having the ingredients prepared right in front of me on the long table.
SEVEN FLOWERS The two-hour Manis Klepon treatment (Rp. 845,000++ for a single) consists of five different rituals with a refreshing footbath as the starter.
leaf and ginger to help overcome
The therapist then asked which type
tiredness, Invigorating with lavender
calming my mind, so I opted for the
of oil I would like for the Balinese
and eucalyptus to relax your body
Invigorating – and I can assure you
massage, the second ritual. DaLa
and relieve headaches, Tuti Fruity
it was the right choice because once
Spa has five oil selections for you
with mandarin, peppermint and lime
my therapist began the massage
to choose from; Romance with
to attain balance, and Purifying with
treatment I was into a completely
sandalwood and jasmine to arouse
juniper, cypress and lemon as a
relaxed state of mind. Her massage
your senses, Comfort with cinnamon
body purifier.
technique – which consisted of on-
BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2015
I was looking forward to
37
One of the treatment rooms at DaLa Spa
Recharge your mind in this open-air pavilion where the view of rice paddies greets you
pandanus leaves. And of course,
relishing some authentic Indonesian
and thumb pressure – combined
some drops of kenanga and jasmine
dishes at the Petani Restaurant. The
with the aroma of Invigorating oil
oil. This 15-minute flower bath helps
best time to have a treatment is on
instantly took me into a deep sleep.
improve your immune system as well
Friday at around 4 p.m., so that
This massage is an amazing way to
as recharges your energy.
when you are done you can have
improve your blood circulation and
dinner at the Petani Restaurant with
MEET THE KLEPON
the company of a Balawan or Gus
After the treatment is done, you
Teja live performance. Better yet,
using grated young coconuts with
should spend some time at The Spa
book a room and stay overnight
palm sugar to gently exfoliate dead
Terrace just adjacent to the spa
at the Alaya Resort Ubud so you
skin cells and brighten up the skin.
lobby, where you will be served
can continue your day of being
This ritual is then followed by a body
a cup of herbal tea and some
pampered by enjoying the view of
mask, using pandanus leaves for the
Klepon – the local snack that the
rice paddies from your room terrace
ultimate in skin rejuvenation.
Manis Klepon treatment name is
and having a great night’s sleep in
derived from. This is to show that
one of their deluxe rooms.
the Manis Klepon treatment is
the ingredients applied to your skin
By Risty Nurraisa
actually the fifth ritual – the flower
are edible too, meaning we should
bath. After the body mask my
only take natural food for our body,
DaLa Spa
therapist drew me a bath with seven
inside and out.
Alaya Resort Ubud
relieve tension. The next ritual was a body scrub
But what I loved the most about
Jalan Hanoman, Ubud
types of flowers – pacah merah,
With the spa ritual complete, do
pacah seribu, cempaka kuning,
not go back home immediately but
(0361) 972-200
cempaka putih, sandat, gemitir, and
continue your holistic getaway by
www.alayahotels.com
38
BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2015
PHOTOS COURTESY OF ALAYA RESORT UBUD
point long strokes, stretches, palm
BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2015
39
JJ Goodman, the mixolo gist master-slash-owner of London Cocktail Club, was rocking the Potato Head Beach Club with his drin k creations including this Bump & Grind, a concoc tion of salted caramel, Ketel One, Tia Maria, and cof fee mix.
40
Capture d at Con rad Bali coconut . Blue sk trees alo y, a tran ng the s is all ab quil oce wimmin out. an, and g pool – this is w hat Bali
Colorful kites fly high in the sky at the Denp Festival at Mer asar Kite tasari Beach in Sanur. Beautif ul!
BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2015
PHOTOS BY RISTY NURRAISA R AISA AND JOS JOSEPH EPH PH WANG G
SIGHTS&SOUNDS
Our cork board of photos, quotes and fun facts that we picked up while exploring in August and September ...
s Season e Four th t e a e r d th class covere master late rclass colate te choco o s h a a c , m a k n e in h o r T h d . lr n a te bara y not to The V hocola ortunit li at Jim ts; a c p a h p this B g o t li r n e o Res lot from late d was a choco ned a tart. It r r a te la le u la p y o po reall choc lat. and a cipants Choco soufÊ e parti th s a r a , G nd d u e s d is le o be m om Ec chef fr master
e of art, y dish is a piec re where ever vo ca Lo ! at in g od Di s. Delish fo ced ingredient of locally-sour and is made
Made of choc olate, vanilla ice cream, an Choco Iceber d whiskey, th g at the Rock is Ba r, AYANA Re Bali is surely sort and Spa a guilty pleasu re!
BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2015
41
REST&RELAXATION On the top of the cliff approximately 100 meters from the ground. The view is breath-taking
NEW OLD BALI A NEW PLACE TO STAY THAT WILL IMMERSE YOU IN THE BALINESE CULTURE ALONG WITH HIGH-QUALITY SERVICE IN THE HEART OF UBUD’S JUNGLE…
T
he highly anticipated
welcomes you to the resort. This bold
and coconut water. When you are
Mandapa, a Ritz-Carlton
structure is reminiscent of a Candi
ready, your butler – called a patih at
Reserve is now finally
or a local temple, which fits to the
this resort – will escort you directly
open! Nestled in the
name of the resort as mandapa
to your room. There is no check-in
lush valley of the Ayung
actually means temple.
or checkout counter, as everything
River, this new establishment is
After passing through a
will be taken care of by your patih in
screaming the hotel group’s blue
huge door you will find yourself
blood status. A Ritz-Carlton Reserve
standing on the top of the reserve,
is a smaller boutique version of its
approximately a hundred meters
TRUE TO BALI
sister property, the Ritz-Carlton, and
above the ground. From the top you
With only 60 suites and villas, this
they only open in the most exotic
can see the majestic Ayung River
reserve is actually inspired by a real
destinations in the world. Albeit the
valley, a view you can only find in
Balinese village. With a rice field
hotel is designed to meet the local
this particular area of Ubud – this is
laid out in the middle of the land
culture, the service quality must
also a very good spot to enjoy some
complete with a granary and a fully
uphold the reputation of the Ritz-
quiet time, especially at sunset.
functional Balinese family temple,
Carlton name.
Take your time to marvel on this natural wonder as you enjoy your
your suite or villa.
Mandapa, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve is indeed a small village in any sense.
ABOVE AND BEYOND
welcome drink, a traditional Balinese
There are two swimming pools
A circular terracotta entrance
herbal loloh made out of honey, lime
overlooking the rice paddies – and
42
BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2015
one of them is heated – but that doesn’t mean you should take your private pool in the villa for granted as it can be heated too. All you have to do is tell your patih and in 24 hours time you will have your own private hot pool. How awesome is that? A river view villa is the best option for your retreat. The surroundings are so pristine with almost no sounds but the rustling
paintings. And although the
are plenty of slots for you to charge
leaves and the water gushing down
bedroom is designed with a
your gadgets.
below – although sometimes you
modern and simple interior, the
can hear the excitement from people
wood paneled walls add the old
RICE CULTURE
going rafting in the river, and it
Balinese charm.
When morning comes, start your
Another thing I love about the
day with an amazing breakfast at
room is that they put in quite a few
the Sawah Terrace, which boasts
The spacious bedroom is
USB power outlets. So for us gadget
the most stunning view of the Ayung
also distinct in its own way, as
enthusiasts, if somehow you left your
River. Perched on top of the river,
it is adorned with local Balinese
adaptor at home don’t worry. There
this all-day dining restaurant is no
somehow makes the place feel more alive.
BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2015
43
system. Being Balinese means you
getting dirty you can always watch
enjoy your most important meal of
manage your own rice fields, so at
the process from the side of the rice
the day. Breakfast is served at the
this reserve you will do exactly that
field. Refreshments will be served
buffet station, but you can also order
as one of the many activities for the
afterwards at the rice granary,
from the a la carte menu. Fresh daily
guests.
which includes Balinese coffee and
juices also will be served along with the high-quality food.
Once your breakfast is done
local snacks.
you will be introduced to how the Balinese work in their rice fields. Be
LIKE A ROYAL
is the Balinese rice culture. The
ready to get dirty as you will have
After spending the morning on the
Balinese rice terrace incorporates an
to level the surface of the mud, all
rice fields, you might just want to
irrigation system called subak,
under the guidance of the hotel
enjoy a spa treatment afterwards.
which is acknowledged by
staff, before finally planting the rice
So just head out to the Mandapa
UNESCO as a world heritage
paddy grass. If you don’t feel like
Spa, which is located at the corner
One of Mandapa’s core concepts
44
BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2015
PHOTOS COURTESY OF MANDAPA, A RITZ-CARLTON RESERVE
question one of the best spots to
Balinese village within the reserve. The rice culture is the core DNA of the establishment
of the reserve and is slightly elevated from the riverbank.
When it is time for dinner, the
Surrounded by lush greenery and
reserve’s signature Kubu Restaurant
complete with top-notch hospitality,
is ready to welcome you. Located
Mandapa, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve,
accompany you while you are
on the bank of the Ayung River,
is definitely one of the newest upper
pampered with ESPA products. A
this eco-bamboo structure offers
scale establishments that you should
24 hour very well equipped fitness
Mediterranean-European cuisine
experience for a luxurious getaway.
center is also available, and of
and gives you the option of
By Joseph Wang
course the reserve has a yoga
relishing dishes either from the
pavilion as well. A complimentary
a la carte or degustation menus.
Mandapa, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve
open-air vitality pool with an air and
The Kubu Restaurant also provides
Jalan Kedewatan,
water massage system is also an
nine private dining rooms inside a
Banjar Kedewatan, Ubud
option for wellness if you are not into
bamboo cocoon, each sitting only
(0361) 479-2777
a spa treatment.
four persons.
www.ritzcarlton.com
The sound of the river will
BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2015
45
PONDERINGPOINT
putting down tentative roots while children were raised
“SEMUA BISA DIATUR”
and careers pursued. Yet all the time I’m thinking, “Where to next?” The taproot seemed never to be strong enough to hold me in that particular place’s soil, and now it is time to test Indonesia to see if she will take me into her heart. I’m often asked, “Why Indonesia?” These days I simply answer, “Semua bisa diatur” – which translates
OUR CONTRIBUTOR PAUL V. WALTERS SHARES WHAT IT FEELS LIKE FOR A FOREIGN TRAVELER TO LIVE IN THIS ARCHIPELAGO...
to “things can be arranged.” Those words to me sum up everything that is good in this country. If I were a president I would try to have them etched into the constitution and woven into the national flag. It is right up there in the positivity stakes with that all time great copy line, “Just do it.”
I
Countries everywhere contain within their borders that ndonesia. You’re a puzzle, an enigma, a complex
most precious of all commodities, its people, as does
algorithm, a place full of wonder, and yet you’re a
Indonesia with its nearly 300 million souls occupying
Pandora’s Box whose contents baffle and confuse
over 6,000 of its islands. The diversity of cultures,
those who choose to make your shores their ‘home.’
religions, languages, and thousands of dialects go a
Each time I look at a map I am amazed by just
how huge you are. To the uninitiated it’s a lot to take in; 17,000 islands, 5,160 kilometers from east to west,
long way towards the making up the complex puzzle that is at the core of this great nation. If I lived here for the rest of my life I would be able to
over 60 archipelagos that lie like broken spines in seas
glean only a tiny glimpse of how it functions because,
so azure – so unbelievably vibrant they are almost too
quite simply, it just does! To an outsider, its customs, its
beautiful to look at. And all of this is surrounded by
way of life is a little like trying to decipher an intricate
majestic volcanoes and mountains whose sole purpose
map that can only be navigated in the “Indonesian way,”
seems to be to reach up and touch a sky delicious with
for any other way will lead to paths that head nowhere.
stars.
Of course, virtually everybody will try to help guide you
If you allow it, Indonesia will certainly seduce you
through your early torturous months, and of course each
with her charms and beauty. And when you have
one will have a completely different view and an even
succumbed, she will call you like a plaintive siren from
more confusing set of instructions to follow.
the sea each time you try to leave her. It takes no time at all to become ensnared in her intriguing web.
Lately I have come to understand the two basic fundamentals that dominate every strata of society
What is it that makes her so appealing, intriguing,
throughout the country, faith, and family – and not
beguiling and at times so tortuously frustrating? I ponder
necessarily in that order. These two values are the glue
this point a lot lately. I suspect my initial feelings of intense
that binds together millions of people, many of them
desire have moved into what has become a long-term love
so very different in terms of language, beliefs, and
affair, with all of the baggage that comes with it.
even appearance – and yet they are all one thing,
I’ve been a wanderer for most of my life, drifting aimlessly like flotsam from country to country, sometimes
46
‘Indonesians.’ I am a foreigner in a foreign land and no matter
BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2015
how long I stay here I will always be a foreigner, but not necessarily an outsider. The spirit of giving and acceptance must be part of the nation’s collective DNA, as I encounter such genuine hospitality and generosity of spirit wherever I go. The majority of my life to date has been spent in countries where its citizen’s worship at that alter of ambition whose goals are the pursuit of money, power, and status, and beware of those who happen to get in the way. Age is not revered in the way it is in Indonesia. In the ‘west,’ the old and the infirm become an irritant to be stashed away in soulless institutions with dishonest names like ‘Tranquility Gardens’ or ‘Peaceful Meadows.’ There the aged will live out their twilight years surrounded only by those as ancient as they are, bereft of family.
MAYA UBUD
When I first arrived in Indonesia, I used to walk the streets of my neighborhood and cries of “Pagi, Papa!” would greet me from doorways and windows. I was a little taken aback at the audaciousness of those who would glibly refer to my age. Now I know that it is a term of respect as I supposedly have an abundance of wisdom and now I wear that particular salutation like a badge of honor. Here, old people are cool…. I think! It’s easy for a newly arrived resident to don a pair of rose-colored glasses and gaze through those tinted lenses at this strange new world, seeing only the things they want to see. It’s not ‘perfect’ here to be sure, as no place anywhere can attain that lofty status. I battle with the learning of a new language, I struggle to make sense of what should be simple, straightforward paperwork, and along the way I learn to have infinite patience. Should I stumble when confronted with what seems to be an insurmountable problem, a few locals will gather, then a few more, and a long chat will ensue. And with smiles all around, they will look at me and say, “Don’t worry. Semua bisa diatur.” I do so love it here! By Paul V. Walters
BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2015
47
FOTOFOLIO
THE DANCING SPIRIT The unique culture of Indonesia, especially Bali, has drawn talented Balinese photographer Made Yudistira to combine two of his passions; exploring local culture and sharing its stories through photos. In this collection, Made Yudistira gives us a closer look at some of the sacred Balinese traditional dances and the performers’ detailed makeup and costumes, showing how the Balinese have an amazing sense of art. www.ickr.com/myudistira
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THE INVINCIBLE HANOMAN The most attractive part of the Kecak and Fire Dance at the Uluwatu Temple is when Hanoman, the white monkey, tries BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2015 to burn down the city.
BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2015
49
THE LEGONG DANCER The detailed makeup and costume show how the Balinese ancestors had an excellent taste for the artistic.
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THE TRANCE OF SANG HYANG DEDARI One of the many Sang Hyang Dedari dancers.
BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2015
51
A STAGE PERFORMANCE A Barong mask or tapel is considered sacred. Before the show starts, a priest has to give an offering and a blessing to the holy spirits.
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BETWEEN SMOKE AND FIRE Sanghyang Jaran is known as a sacred Balinese dance.
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LIKE A FIRE The performers of the Kecak Dance chant “Cak cak” in harmony while their hands are up in the air, resembling a fire.
ACTION&ATTRACTION
THE WARRIOR DANCE
CAPOEIRA IS A DEMANDING PHYSICAL ACTIVITY THAT BEAUTIFULLY BLENDS THE ART OF SELF-DEFENSE AND DANCE...
A
group of people were
eventually started the roda – they
to show superiority without making
standing in circle on
were about to play Capoeira.
contact and causing any injury.
a beautiful beach in
Two persons then moved into
the afternoon. They
the middle of the circle as the
CULTURAL HERITAGE
seemed to be having
tone of the berimbau regulated
Born out of a resistance against
a great time talking to each other
the pace or the style of the game.
all forms of oppression, Capoeira
when suddenly a high note from a
Capoeira consists of a lot of kicks
incorporates songs with martial
string percussion instrument called a
and acrobatic movements, but the
arts and dance movements, and
berimbau filled the air. The leader
participants should never knock
is performed and transferred from
of the group started singing a
down their opponents. In fact, they
Capoeira masters to their disciples
soulful Portuguese song, and after a
have to collaborate to show the skills
all around the world. It is originally
verse, all of them sang together and
of the other Capoeiristas. Kicks are
from Brazil, but is believed to have
clapped their hands to the beat of
launched in slow motion only a few
been developed by West African
the berimbau. This hypnotizing ritual
inches away from their opponent
slaves with Brazilian influences in
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BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2015
Acrobatics is a part of the game although it is only to show the skills of the Capoeristas
the 16th century as a defence against the armed colonists who were suppressing them. By the end of the 19th century, slavery was banned in Brazil and things started to go down. Capoeira began to be misused for crime, as a lot of Capoeiristas were hired as hitmen and bodyguards for the warlords. In fact, a group of Capoeiristas raided the city of Rio de Janeiro, which eventually resulted in Capoeira being prohibited in the whole country in the 1890’s. But by 1920, Capoeira started to make its way back, and since 1970 Capoeira mestres began to preserve this cultural heritage. Now Capoeira attracts foreign students and tourists to Brazil, and renowned Capoeira mestres even teach this martial art abroad and establish their own schools. Known for its acrobatic and complex movements, as well as an unpredictable pattern of kicks, spins, and other techniques, Capoeira was acknowledged as one of the world’s Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity in 2014 by UNESCO.
A BEAUTIFUL SYNERGY The good news is that Capoeira classes are now available in many areas of Bali – in Ubud, Seminyak, Jimbaran, and Sanur. If you want to burn all those calories from the extensive food and beer you have consumed, Capoeira is what you should be doing at the end of your day, as classes are normally conducted in the evening.
BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2015
57
The method of practice in Capoeira is pretty simple. For beginners, the master will teach
This game is open to any age, and could be played anywhere
you all the basic moves, which are almost the same as with other martial arts. And you will get a lot of lunges,
without getting bloody. Around 98
Capoeira schools have their own
believe me.
percent of the game is based on
levels of color for the cordao, but
The key to Capoeira is to never
evasive movements that combine
white is normally for the beginners
stand still. You have to be constantly
launching and avoiding attacks
after their inauguration in a
moving or rolling, or at least simply
in slow motion – which explains
ceremonial roda also known as the
swaying your body from the left to
why watching two persons battling
batizado.
the right the whole time – this works
in Capoeira is like watching a
your core muscles as you have to be
choreographed dance with beautiful
about the instruments and the songs,
engaged with your abdomen and
synergy.
as well as Brazilian and Portuguese
Do not be fooled by its graceful
culture, and Samba – so it is not
game. Not only that, if you keep on
movement though, as Capoeira
just about the martial art. There are
moving it will be easier for you to
also has some deadly movements
no limitations as to why you should
avoid attacks, to mislead and trick
in its arsenal. There have been
learn Capoeira – whether you want
your opponent, and to strike back
a few cases where a fighter has
to learn self-defense or the Brazilian
when your opponent leasts expect it.
been knocked down directly after
culture, or just want to stay healthy,
Kicks are mostly launched to attack, but you can also use your
successfully beating the opponent. Just like other martial arts,
Capoeira is surely fun! By Joseph Wang
hands to distract your opponent. Just
Capoeira also has levels, also
remember this one thing; the essence
called as cordao, and each level is
Capoeira Bali
of Capoeira is to show superiority
marked by the color of the belt. Most
www.capoeirabali.com
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BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2015
PHOTOS COURTESY OF CAPOEIRA BALI
lower back to stay strong during the
In Capoeira, you will also learn
Advertorial
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Bali Dynasty Resort Jl Kartika, Tuban, South Kuta, Bali, Indonesia,BALI&BEYOND 80361 OCTOBER 2015 59 Phone: +62-361-752403 | Fax: +62-361-752402 | reservations@balidynasty.com www.balidynasty.com
BEYONDBALI
SAIL TO SELAYAR
FRIENDLY PEOPLE AND PRISTINE BEACHES. THE SELAYAR ISLANDS ARE THE NEXT ‘IT’ TOURIST DESTINATION IN THE ARCHIPELAGO…
W
hat is this
Islands region that is rich with
place? Is
historical treasures.
this for real? Am I
OLD VILLAGE
in heaven?
It was 8 a.m. when our flight took
Those questions came rushing
off from Makassar, the capital city of
through my mind as I arrived on the
South Sulawesi, and headed south
pristine Big Tinabo Island, one of
to Selayar Island. During those 30
the islands within the Taka Bonerate
minutes of flight, excitement was
National Sea Park in the Selayar
all I could feel, as I knew that the
Islands just south of South Sulawesi.
adventure of a lifetime was waiting.
I had heard about the Selayar
Once we got to the island we
Islands before, but my adventure
began our adventure by sipping
there gave true meaning to the
some local coffee at Kopi Culang,
phrase “seeing is believing.” You
the governor’s favorite coffee shop,
have to experience it yourself to
and munching on sticky rice called
actually see just how jaw-droppingly
songkolo – a great introduction to
beautiful this part of Indonesia truly
the local culture. The friendliness of
is. On Big Tinabo Island you will find
the local people instantly made us
white sand beaches so pure it is as
feel at home – from the children to
old, they are still very productive.
if no human has ever set foot there,
elderly, they easily shared their smile
This village is known for its unique
ocean water that is so crystal clear
with us tourists, as well as the sellers
traditional houses that look like
you can actually see fish swimming
we met at the traditional market.
nests up in the air, as Holasa
right from the shore, and of course,
This humble attitude was spread
Liang Lipan, the stalagmite and stalactite cave that is surrounded by clear water
wooden poles as high as 12 meters
the island is so quiet that you will
across the land as we met more
support them – and these poles
forget all your troubles in a moment.
friendly people at Old Bitombang
have been there for hundreds of
Village, which is located only 7 km
years. Why that high, you might
this heaven on earth, let’s rewind a
from Benteng, the capital city of
wonder. Legend has it that during
couple of days back when our small
Selayar Island. And although most
wartime, enemies would attack from
group first arrived on Selayar Island,
of the villagers in Old Bitombang
below using spears. The villagers
the jumping off point of the Selayar
Village are more than 90 years
protected themselves from these
But before I take you exploring in
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BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2015
sudden attacks by building their
which proves how the Selayar
the spots you really should explore.
houses very high.
Islands were an important harbor
As for me, watching the sun setting
thousands of years ago. But what
on the horizon from a jukung was
HIDDEN BEACHES
once a world-class harbor is now
already a treasure to behold.
The Selayar Islands are located right
“just” a fishermen’s village.
at the center of Indonesia, which
From this fishermen’s village we
HEAVEN ON EARTH
made this region an international
went beach-hopping using a jukung
On our second day we went to the
hub that connected all parts of the
to reach some hidden beaches. Liang
Taka Bonerate National Sea Park,
world in the 17th century. The Old
Kareta and Liang Tarrusu Beach
the third biggest atoll in the world,
Anchor Museum is home to anchors
were only two out of several beautiful
so rich with marine biodiversity that
that once belonged to a Chinese
beaches on the western part of the
it is the perfect spot for diving and
merchant in the Padang village,
Selayar Islands. For divers, these are
snorkeling. There are 21 islands
BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2015
61
in this national sea park, and Big
think about was meeting the “stars”
beauty, I will never forget the huge
Tinabo Island is the main attraction –
of the island – the baby black tip
oyster and stingray that I saw when
so this is we were headed.
sharks. Imagine sunbathing at the
I went snorkeling. This island also
beach or swimming in the ocean
boasts remarkable sunset and sunrise
takes from three to five hours by
all day, like I did, with baby sharks
views, and for adrenaline junkies,
speedboat – but trust me, the long
swimming freely around you. How
kitesurfing in the morning is surely
journey is beyond worth it as your
cool is that? Don’t worry, they are
great to start your day.
eyes will be filled to overflowing
harmless. And if you want to get a
Traveling back to Selayar Island
with the view of atolls and clear blue
little bit closer to them, try feeding
is another long journey, but the view
sea, and sometimes flying fish, along
them. They are so adorable! As
of the atolls will once again take
the way – some people even saw
for the island’s natural underwater
your breath away. And please spare
The journey to Big Tinabo Island
some wild dolphins! And once we arrived at Big Tinabo Island, I almost couldn’t believe that such paradise is accessible by speedboat. It felt surreal to be there as I left my footprints on the untouched white sand beach and walked to the Tinabo Island Dive Resort, the only resort on the small island. It was even more unbelievable that there were no other guests there during our visit. The resort was ours alone. In fact, the whole island felt like our own. Lunch was served, but all I could
Big Tinabo Island is truly heaven on earth
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BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2015
PHOTOS BY RISTY NURRAISA
Kitesurfing in Big Tinabo Island
INDONESIA A house at the Old Bitombang Village
SELAYAR ISLAND
preserved. This gong, originally from the delta of the Red River in North Vietnam, is believed to have been produced in 600 B.C., and was used to mark the start of a war or some other sacred rituals. Not far from the historical gong is the Nekara Museum another place you should visit. Designed as a traditional Selayar house, the museum displays artifacts, traditional fabrics, and other historical treasures from Selayar’s golden era. some time to visit Liang Lipan, the
One more activity that is a must
stalagmite and stalactite cave that
on this island is chitchatting with
is surrounded by clear water. There
the locals at a coffee shop – that’s
are two options for going into the
what we did on our last night, as
cave; you can ask the boat to stop at
we wanted to have the best closure
the front of the cave mouth and go in
before our journey back home the
without getting wet, or you can swim
next day. At 9 p.m., Benteng was
TIPS: • The best time to visit the Taka Bonerate National Sea Park is between September-November and April-June. • In Big Tinabo Island, electricity is only available during the night, and phone signal is almost no existent. Better leave your phone in your bag. • Book everything in advance, as flights from and to Selayar Island are only available three times a week. WHERE TO STAY: Syafira Hotel Jalan Jenderal Sudirman No. 21, Benteng, Selayar Island Tinabo Island Dive Resort www.tinaboisland.com
your way in. I preferred the second –
already asleep and there were
trust me, when you see a lagoon that
only two coffee shops open until
is so crystal clear, you won’t be able
midnight. Over a cup of coffee the
to resist the desire to jump out of the
locals shared their dreams about
boat and swim.
improving and developing the tourism industry in their homeland
LOCAL DREAMS
for a better future. They are ready to
Once you got back to the mainland,
repeat the glorious years of Selayar.
there is no need to rush flying back
All they need is the support of
to Makassar as Selayar Island has
conscientious travelers and investors
more history to reveal. Located in
to help them develop their resources
Matalalang, just 10 minutes away
as well as preserve their historical
from Benteng, a bronze Nekara
treasures and natural beauty.
Gong found in 1868 is kept
By Risty Nurraisa
BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2015
63
CAPITALCORNER
JAVA MASTERPIECE
WATCHING A TRADITIONAL JAVANESE PERFORMANCE IN THE CAPITAL CITY…
I
the Dutch colonial era, this building used to be for spice storage, but then it was transformed into a theatre called the Realto. Now it hosts the Wayang Orang Bharata (Javanese human puppet) performance every Saturday. The history of the Wayang Orang
n the hectic area of Senen in
at Jalan Kalilio No. 15, not far from
Bharata group goes way back to
Central Jakarta – an area that
the Senen bus station, a three-story
early ‘60s. In 1963 a human puppet
is renowned as a trade center
building with “Bharata Purwa”
group called Panca Murti was first
since the Dutch colonial era –
written above the entrance door has
established, but it dispersed in
you would never expect to find
been showcasing Javanese theatrical
1972. Some members then formed
art for more than 40 years. During
a new group called Wayang Orang
a Javanese cultural center. Located
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BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2015
Bharata, and they started to perform
Bharata show for six years. But then
a week, but since the production
at Bharata Purwa. At that time there
the Jakarta ofďŹ cials encouraged the
costs were pretty high they agree to
were hundreds of human puppet
group to get back on stage. Marsam
only perform once a week. Years
groups in Java, but now, there are
Mulyo Atmojo, the leader of the
have passed and now the current
only three groups left, one each in
group, called all the members and
group is the ďŹ fth generation of the
Jakarta, Semarang, and Surakarta.
their families, and invited them to
Wayang Orang Bharata family,
Wayang Orang Bharata is among
help preserve this traditional human
which consists of 140 members, who
the rare, and it is based in Jakarta.
puppet performance. For him,
all inherited their roles from their
continuing on with performing is
parents and grandparents.
THROUGH GENERATIONS The renovation of the building
the only way to pass on this cultural heritage to their descendants.
No wonder the performers really understand, not just the storyline
And so the Wayang Orang
but also each of the characters in
near the end of 1999 necessitated
Bharata group was reborn. The
the story, as well as the dance, the
a hiatus for the Wayang Orang
group planned to act three days
costumes, and even the makeup.
BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2015
65
The group event prepares their
WATCH AND LEARN
own costumes and make up for
If you think that this cultural show
every performance. The group has
attracts only a limited number of
performs regularly on Saturdays
380 wayang stories, including the
people, you should think again.
at 8.00 p.m. at the Bharata Purwa
Ramayana and Mahabharata from
When I bought my ticket to watch a
building with tickets ranging in
India that are adapted to the culture
performance, I saw that there were
price from Rp. 40,000 to Rp.
of Java and Bali. Every story in every
many enthusiastic people lined up
60,000 – booking your tickets prior
performance is even more epic with
waiting to see the show. I was even
is advisable as they are likely to be
the sounds of traditional gamelan
more amazed when Marsam told
sold out quickly, especially when
music in the background.
me that more than 75 percent of the
popular stories like the Baratayudha
seats are almost always occupied.
is on the schedule. But now you
traditional Javanese dance. The Wayang Orang Bharata
The show is delivered in
can also catch their performance at
Javanese, but rest assured you
other theatres, such as the Gedung
won’t get lost in translation. To
Kesenian Jakarta in Central Jakarta. So if you would like to see a
story, the stage is equipped with a
traditional Javanese show while
screen displaying running text in
you’re in Jakarta, now you know
Indonesian. And I have to say, the
where to go. The Wayang Orang
show is hilarious! It is also suitable
Bahrata show will get you closer to
for anyone – I witnessed visitors from
traditional Javanese culture and their
all ages that couldn’t stop laughing
philosophies of life.
as they watched the spontaneous
By Agi R. Andante
acts. And I can never forget how the audience was in awe as the
Bharata Purwa
performers beautifully delivered a
Jalan Kalilio No. 15, Central Jakarta
66
BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2015
PHOTOS BY AGI R. ANDANTE
help the audience understand the
BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2015
67
BEYONDUPDATES
SHOP IN LOMBOK For those of you who are looking for authentic souvenirs to bring back home from Lombok, look no more! Just head out to Esany Gallery, the latest one-stop shopping spot in Lombok. The Esany Gallery consists of a gift shop, a jewelry store and a restaurant, and is offering a range of products with the best quality – check out their Tenun and Songket fabrics, authentic Lombok souvenirs, crafts, and pearls. The Esany Gallery also has selections of local food from local snacks to Taliwang chicken, sate pusut, sate bulayak, and more. Happy shopping! Esany Gallery Jalan Pariwisata No. 8 Montong, Senggigi, Lombok, (0370) 630 706
FAST AND DASHING
www.esany.co.id
Located at their new showroom in TB Simatupang, Jakarta, Ferrari proudly launched their latest new achievement, the Ferrari 488 GTB. With its very sophisticated design, the Ferrari 488 GTB sets a new standard for sports cars, as it is equipped with dynamic vehicle controls and V8 turbo engine for extreme power. The party was made even merrier by the performance of Andien Aisyah, one of Indonesia’s most talented singers. Not only that, Ferrari Jakarta also gave back to the community by hosting an auction and donating all the proceeds to the Dorkas orphanage, a home for underprivileged children. Ferrari Jakarta Wisma MRA, Ground Floor Jalan TB Simatupang No. 19, Jakarta
For you foodies in Surabaya, East Java, get ready because Cuca is coming to please your palate! On October 23 and 24, the 1903 Restaurant on Jalan Sumatera No. 40 will be hosting Cuca’s first ever pop-up food joint. Prepare to indulge in six of Cuca’s tastiest tapas, such as the BBQ Octopus, Bali’s Breakfast, baked scallops, and meat and potatoes. This special dining experience is priced at Rp. 490,000++ (beverage pairing is also available). For reservations, please call (031) 5033-003 or email to marketing@society.co.id. Cuca Jalan Yoga Perkanthi, Jimbaran, (0361) 708-066 www.cuca-flavor.com
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BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2015
ALL COURTESY PHOTOS
POP-UP TAPAS
MAYA SANUR
BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2015
69
COMMUNITYCALENDAR
GO GLOBAL
SING WITH THE STARS The Westin Resort Nusa Dua, Bali is once again hosting a charity concert to support UNICEF Check Out for Children. Held at the Mangupura Hall at the Bali International Convention Center on October 16, this special event will wow the audience with the performance of young Indonesian singers Citra Scholastika and Bastian Steel. This impressive duo will share the stage and be collaborating with a children’s choir from Bali’s leading music school. This musical night starts at 7 p.m., and tickets are priced at Rp. 150,000 net per person. All proceeds will be donated to support UNICEF in providing education and vaccinations for children across the Asia Pacific region. Bali International Convention Centre The Westin Resort Nusa Dua, Bali BTDC Lot N-3, Nusa Dua (0361) 771-906, www.westin.com/bali
From October 16 to 18, the Global Issues Networking (GIN) Conference Bali will be hosted for the third time at Canggu Community School, inviting students from seventh grade and above to get together and discuss global issues. Participants will also learn a lot from international keynote speakers – among them Thai’s first female solo Olympic contender Bam Kamolwan Chanyim, Cambodian performance poet Kosal Khiev, and the founders of Bye Bye Plastic Bags, Isobel and Melati. The GIN Bali 2015 is not only open for students in Bali, Lombok, and Java, but also from Vietnam and East Timor. Entry is Rp. 1,500,000 net for three days, inclusive of all food. www.globalissuesnetwork.org
READY, SET, GO!
The Ubud Writers & Readers Festival is back again for the 12th time! Embracing the theme “17,000 Islands of Imagination”, this year’s festival will welcome more than a hundred authors, thinkers, artists, and other professionals from around the world. Among the expected speakers are Pulitzer Prize winner Michael Chabon, the founders of the Lonely Planet series Tony and Maureen Wheeler, and Indonesian political journalist Seno Gumira Ajidarma. The Ubud Writers & Readers Festival 2015 will be held from October 28 to November 1, and is going to be filled with intimate literary lunches, poetry slams, night parties, and more. Don’t miss it! www.ubudwritersfestival.com
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BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2015
ALL COURTESY PHOTOS
BEYOND WORDS
Dear sports enthusiasts, giddy up for the Herbalife Bali International Triathlon 2015! Held on October 25, the triathlon will start with a swimming competition at 6 a.m. in Jimbaran Bay, followed by cycling along the Nusa Dua coast and finished with a running competition. The start and finish point will be at the InterContinental Bali Resort and Spa, where food and entertainment will be available for the participants. Click the following website for more details. www.balitriathlon.com
BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2015
71
SEE&SEEN
PRESERVING ART It was a night to remember as the Le Meridien Bali Jimbaran hosted its “PreservARTion” charity night in support of preserving Balinese cultural heritage with the maestro of Balinese dance, Ida Bagus Blangsinga, as the main star of the event. Guests were also invited to witness a live painting show by Ponco Setyohadi and a fashion show by APPMI, while indulging in some delectable dishes courtesy of Penelope Williams, Mandif Warokka, Rahung Nasution, and the hotel’s Executive Chef Justin Wong. www.lemeridienbalijimbaran.com
A HOLY CEREMONY On a beautiful Saturday morning, the Plataran Ubud Hotel & Spa held a sacred Melaspas ceremony by the property’s rice fields. Melaspas is a traditional Balinese ceremony to clean and purify a new building site or land from negative elements, as well as to bring prosperity and wealth. This ceremony felt even more sacred with a number of holy performances, one of them being Rejang Dewa, a sacred dance to the Gods. www.plataran.com
Grand Nikko Bali shared some love by inviting hotel guests to join in a sea turtle release, not just once, but twice in August as there were two sea turtles that laid eggs on the hotel’s white sand beach. As a certified eco hotel, Grand Nikko Bali has been striving to help protect sea turtles, and to date has released 404 baby sea turtles to the ocean. www.grandnikkobali.com 72
BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2015
ALL OTHERS COURTESY PHOTOS
SWIM FREE!
TIME TO MINGLE! Once again, Bali & Beyond magazine hosted a party to remember, Recharge Night! Held at the Ungasan Hotel & Convention Center, the party welcomed hundreds of guests from the hospitality, travel and tourism industry, making the event the best place to rub shoulders with the who’s who of Bali. Of course the party wouldn’t be as much fun without the support of the Ungasan Hotel & Convention Center, and our other respected partners including Two Islands Wine, Dragonfly Moscato, Heineken, Jose Cuervo, Sailor Jerry, and Socialive. We would also like to thank The 101 Legian Bali, Indosole, Alaya Resort Kuta, Nusa Dua Beach Hotel and Spa, Club Bali Suites, The Sintesa Jimbaran, and Tjendana Corporate for giving out great door prizes. See you at the next party!
BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2015
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BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2015
Negara
JEMBRANA
S
N
E
BALI ISLAND
W
Pemuteran
Medewi
West Bali National Park
Gilimanuk
Menjangan Island
Uluwatu
M
Nusa Dua
Candi Dasa
Nusa Lembongan Island
Semarapura
Nusa Penida Island
Nusa Ceningan Island Tanjung Benoa
Sanur
Tenganan
Amlapura
Amed
Tulamben M. Agung
KARANGASEM
Besakih
Lake Batur
KLUNGKUNG GIANYAR
DENPASAR
Taman Ayun
BADUNG
Ubud
Bangli
BANGLI
M. Batur Kintamani Bedugul
Kerobokan Seminyak Legian NGURAH RAI Kuta Tuban INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT Jimbaran
Canggu
Tanah Lot
Tabanan
TABANAN
M. Batukaru
Laker Buyan Lake Tamblingan Lake Bratan
BULELENG
Lovina
Singaraja
AMARIS
BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2015
75
H
enget
H
Jl. Petit
H
V
R
Gado Gado
ix
le S
Jemme Cafe
Jl. Mertasari
uk
S
H
Kartika Plaza
S
Road
W
H
Kuta Square
Kuta Center
R
Gabah
Jl. Tegal Wangi
S
S
N E
S
S
Jl. kunti II
Istana Kuta Galleria
KUTA
Jl. Nakula
Jl. Plawa
Hard Rock Jl. Pantai Kuta
C
H
Mercure
Rosso Vivo
nset
Jl. kunti I
Jl. Su
Kuta Sea View
Kuta beach
H R
Harris
Beachwalk
H
H
Istana rama
Jl. Melasti
Legian Beach
H
Jl.
a Padm
Amaris Legian
ra
Discovery Shopping Mall
LEGEND: + Medical C Cafe H Hotel M Market M Museum S Shopping R Restaurant V Villa CD Corps Diplomatique
H
kuda Jl. Wer
Jl. Arjuna
Jl. Camplung Tand
Jl. Laksamana
a Uta
adm
Jl. P
oub
Jl. D
Jl. Raya Basangkasa
Jl. Raya Seminyak
C
uta
tai K
Pan
aya
ra
Jl. Raya Kerobokan
a
dew
aha
Jl. S
Jl. Mertanadi
ian
Jl. Leg
Jl. Tangkuban Perahu
apahit Jl. Maj
Jl. R
za
aP la
rtik
Ka
Jl.
an
Jl. Raya Tub
n Da
au
Be
Tuah
ra
ta
S
N
H
Czech Rep. Consulate
Mercure
Jl. Danau Poso
Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai
W
CD
Jl. Danau Buyan
E
Jl. Tegeh Agung
n
H
Italy Consulate
SANUR
Jl. Tukad Bilok
Jl.
Jl. Hang
CD
Sanur Beach
H
ah
M Le Mayeur
H
Telaga Naga
R
Jl. Sindu Sindu Beach
CD
Sweden & Finland Consulate
Bali Hyatt
C
Batu Jimbar
The Village
LEGEND: + Medical C Cafe H Hotel M Market M Museum S Shopping R Restaurant CD Corps Diplomatique
H
H
H
Sector
C
Inna Grand Bali Beach
Jl. Segara Ayu
Puri Santrian
French Consulate
CD
Sanur Paradise Plaza Suite
Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai
H
ng Tu
Sanur Paradise Plaza
H
Jl. Ha
i
Jl. Batubelig
J
Kuta aya Jl. R
i h Ra gura ss N l. By pa
Jl.
S
et Road latan
H
inge
en
G
iM
H
H
Grand Nikko Bali Resort & Spa
H
nta
gia
t
H
Art Market
Medical Center
SAKALA
Tao Bali
Melia Bali
The Laguna
The Bay
LEGEND: + Medical C Cafe H Hotel M Market M Museum S Shopping R Restaurant G Golf CD Corps Diplomatique
Grand Hyatt Bali
R
Museum PasiďŹ ka
H
H
Bali Collection
M
Nusa Dua Beach Westin Resort
H H
H
Club Med Bali Kayumanis Nusa Dua
H
Art Market
S
H
Melia Benoa
The Royal Santrian
Conrad Bali
H
H
H
The Oasis
Aston Bali Resort
Grand Mirage
Ina Putri Bali
S
R R +
S
H Novotel Bali Benoa H The Bali Khama
Ayodya Resort bali
H
Bali National Golf Club
Pa
Clinic
+
Village Market uda
M iray
+
+
H
The St. Regis Bali Resort
Jl.
Jl. W
Amaris Pratama Nusa Dua
Dental Clinic
Clinic
H H
H
H
Fish Market
Ramada Benoa
The Mulia, Mulia Resort & Villas
+
Medical Center
Amanusa
Pem
Tragia
S
E
Jl. Pratama Raya
ai
a Se Nusa Du
H
The Bale
ntai
3
Jl. Pa
Jl. Kurusetra
W
N
NUSA DUA
M
Jl. Pratama
Danoya
Bali Galleria
hR
sar
Jl. Danau Tamblingan
ra
rta
gu
Me
sN
Jl.
BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2015
as
Jl. Srikandi
76
a
The Seminyak
beroi
tam
The O Jl. Suns
Jl. P ra
W Hotel Jl. p By
To Denpasar
Bumbak
Subaksari
SEMER
Raya Semer Peng
uben
gan
KUWUM
ka
n
Perancak Temple
Pantai Brawa
TIBUBENENG
yan
Nela
~~ ~~ ~~ ~~
er
Canggu SurďŹ ng
BUMBAK
wa
em
Canggu River
Canggu Beach
Pantai Bra
aS
~~ ~~ ~~ ~~
International Community School
To Kerobokan
Ray
CANGGU
lec
un
g
UMALAS
Batub
Batubelig
elig
Gunung Tangkuban Perah
Batubelig
H W Bali
R
Villa Lumbung
H Jl. Raya Kerobokan
Petite
nget
KEROBOKAN CANGGU
Warisan Australian International School
KEROBOKAN
BATUBELIG
N T
E
Petitenget Temple
Petiteng
et
Bali Clinic Laksam
ana
Drupadi
Obero
a
Su
ns
KEDEWATAN
UBUD
To Kintamani
M
N
Neka Museum
man
Jl. Sandat
W
Jl. Tirta Ta
Jl. Campuhan
To Paya ng
an
SEMINYAK
Bida
kasa
Ay
H
yu
The Legian
aya
Basang
Ka
S
Jl. R
+
i
W
Mertanadi
~~ ~~ ~~ ~~
Batubelig Beach
u
State Prison of Kerobokan
Ke
Jl.
~~ ~~ ~~ ~~
Brawa Beach
LEGEND: + Medical T Tourism Spot H Hotel/Resort M Market M Museum S Shopping R Restaurant
Ra
ya
Ke
ro
bo
Dukun Indah
BRAWA
Ubud Palace
d
M man
H
wah
Maya Ubud Resort
Jl. IB
ede
Rai
Jl. Jemba
Forest nkey
R
Lamak
iwa
Medical
Cok Putra S
Jl. Sugr
+
Jl. Mo
+
Medical
Jl. Dewi Sita
AN
Jl. Andong Jl. Jero
Market
PENESTANAN
SAY
Ganding
Ubu
LEGEND: + Medical T Tourism Spot H Hotel/Resort M Market M Museum S Shopping R Restaurant
T
ok G
aya
ANDONG
Pusering Jagad Tample
Jl. C
Jl. R
M Antonio Blanco Museum
Jl. Hano
H Kayu Manis
Jl. Sand
Painting Museum
E S
TAMAN
M
at
Riv Ay
un
g
CAMPUHAN
Manik
er
H Four Season
Jl. Su
Jl. Kajeng
weta
UBUD
T
Penataran Sasih Tample
T Keboedan Tample
Monkey Forest
T
Jl. Nyuh bulan
PELIATAN KATIK LANTANG
NYUH KUNING
BEDULU
T
Elephant Cave
BALI&BEYONDRudana OCTOBER M 2015 Museum
To Denpasar
M Afchaeological Museum
PANGOSEKAN
77 TEGES
To Denpasar
To Kemenuh
TENGKULAK
To Gianyar
et
dari
Ro
ad
INFOINDEX
AIRLINES
Tel: (0361) 286-465, Fax: (0361) 286-408 E-mail: bali@honorary.mzv.cz
Renon, Denpasar Fax: (0361) 263-310 E-mail: rtc_bali@thaimail.com
■ AIRPORT OPERATOR Tel: (0361) 751-011
■ FRANCE
■ TIMOR LESTE
■ CATHAY PACIFIC AIRWAYS
Jl. Mertasari Gg. II No. 8, Sanur Tel: (0361) 285-485, Fax: (0361) 286-406 E-mail: consul@dps.centrin.net.id
Jl. Prof. Yamin No. 4, Renon, Denpsar Tel: (0361) 235-093, Fax: (0361) 235-092 E-mail: cgtl@dpsbali.com
■ GERMANY
■ UNITED STATES
Tel: (0361) 768-358, Fax: (0361) 768-369
Jl. Pantai Karang 17, Batujimbar, Sanur Tel: (0361) 288-535, Fax: (0361) 288-826 Email: germanconsul@bali-ntb.com
Jl. Hayam Wuruk 188, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 233-605, Fax: (0361) 222-426 E-mail: amcobali@indosat.net.id
■ ROYAL BRUNEI
■ HUNGARY
Tel: (0361) 757-292
■ SINGAPORE AIRLINES
Marintur, Jl. By Pass Ngurah Rai 219, Sanur. Tel: (0361) 287-701, Fax: (0361) 287-456 Email: huconbali@telkom.net
Jl. I Gusti Ngurah Rai, Airport Tel: (0361) 936-8388, Fax: (0361) 936-8383
■ INDIA
■ GARUDA Jl. Jalan Sugianyar, 5 Denpasar
Jl. Raya Puputan 163, Renon - Denpasar Tel. (0361) 259-502/259-503 Fax.(0361) 259-505
Wisthi Sabha Building, 2nd Floor Ngurah Rai International Aiprort Call Centre: 0804-1-888888
■ CONTINENTAL MICRONESIA
Tel. (0361) 227-824, Fax: (0361) 226-298 24-hour access: 08071-807-807
■ MERPATI Jl. Gatot Subroto Tengah, 26 Denpasar Tel: (0361) 411-364 Airport Tel: (0361) 9351-011, ext. 5240/5242 Hotline: Tel: (0361) 722-740, 722-741
■ MANDALA AIRLINES Komp. Plaza Kertawijaya Jl. Diponogoro No. 98, Denpasar, Reservation Call center 08041234567
■ NGURAH RAI AIRPORT Tel/Fax: (0361) 759-761
HEALTH&MEDICAL
■ ITALY Lotus Enterprises Building Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai, Jimbaran Tel: (0361) 701-005, Fax: (0361) 701-005 E-mail: italconsbali @italconsbali.org
■ JAPAN Jl. Raya Puputan 170, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 227-628, Fax: (0361) 265-066 E-mail: denpasar@dp.mofa.go.jp
■ MALAYSIA Alam Kulkul Boutique Resort Jl. Pantai Kuta Tel: (0361) 752-520, Fax: (0361) 766-373 E-mail: info@consulmalaysia-bali.com
■ THAI INTERNATIONAL Grand Bali Beach Sanur, Tel: (0361) 288-141
■ QATAR AIRWAYS Discovery Kartika Plaza Hotel, South Kuta Beach Tel: (0361) 752-222; Fax: 753-788. Departure International Terminal, 2nd fl. – Room OP.II.8 East Wing Ngurah Rai International Airport Tel: (0361) 9360274; Fax : (0361) 9360275 ■ DEPARTURE Arrive at the airport two hours prior to departure. A Rp. 150,000 international departure tax is required. Domestic departure fee is Rp 75,000. No Fiscal tax-exempt to pay for Indonesian and expatriates holding KITAS for International departure. Ngurah Rai Intíl Airport, Tel: (0361) 751-011
■ MEXICO PT Puri Astina Putra Building Jl. Prof. Moh. Yamin 1A, Renon, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 223-266, Fax: (0361) 244-568 E-mail: consulmex@astinatravel.com
Call an ambulance by dialing 118, but it is a lot more practical and quicker to hire a taxi. Most hotels have on-call doctors on standby. For “Bali Belly”, Lomotil and Imodium eliminate symptoms, but not gastro-related infections. A fever along with symptoms requires doctor-prescribed antibiotics. Drink as much liquid as possible. Isotonic drinks under various brand names are widely available and are known to replenish body hydration and replace fluids. For discomfort, diarrhea and cramping, drink strong, hot tea; avoid fruits and spicy foods. Some day-biting mosquitoes carry dengue fever, but this is not a problem in tourist areas. Bali is non-malarial and prophylaxis is not required. Mosquito bites, cuts or abrasions easily become infected in the tropics. Treat them immediately. Drink only bottled or boiled water. Peel fruit before eating; avoid raw vegetables except at reputable restaurants. Ice in restaurants is safe. Protect yourself from the intense equatorial sun. Use high SPF sunblock and a hat. AIDS and sexually transmitted diseases are increasing in Indonesia. Local sex workers have multiple partners from around the world. They are not checked for sexually transmitted diseases. Act responsibly and use condoms, available over the counter at pharmacies.
■ NETHERLANDS
■ ROYAL DANISH Sunset Road No. 89 Ruko Sunset Indah I Kav. 3 Tel: (0361) 821-6979, Fax: (0361) 7666-38 E-mail: danishconsbali@gmail.com
CLINIC&HOSPITAL 24-hour emergency medical clinic services, medical evacuation, multilingual staff. Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai 505X, Kuta 80361 Tel: (0361) 710-505, Fax: (0361) 710-515
(ARMA) Ubud, Tel: (0361) 976-659, Fax: 974-229. Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud, open daily 8 am-6pm
■ ABIAN KAPAS Jl. Nusa Indah, East Denpasar Tel: (0361) 227-176
■ ANTONIO BLANCO Ubud , Tel: (0361) 975-502, 975-551 open daily 8 am-5 pm
■ ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM Pejeng, Tel: (0361) 942-352 Open 8 am - 3 pm weekdays
■ GEDONG KIRTYA HISTORICAL LIBRARY Tel: (0362) 25141, Jl. Veteran, Singaraja. Open 7am - 3pm Monday Thursday, until Fridaynoon, closed on weekends
■ GALLERY SENIWATI Jl. Ubud Raya, Gianyar. Tel: (0361) 975-485
■ MUSEUM BALI Tel: (0361) 235-059, 222-680, Jl. Let. Kol Wisnu, Denpasar
■ MUSEUM LE MAYEUR Tel: (0361) 286-164, Jl. Hang Tuah, Sanur. Open 8 am - 2 pm, Tuesday - Sunday.
■ MUSEUM MANUSA YADNYA Mengwi, open daily, but often unattended
■ MUSEUM NEKA Tel: (0361) 975-074, 975-034, Jl. Raya Campuan, Ubud open daily 9 am - 5 pm.
Tel: (0361) 975-136, 971-159, Jl. Raya Ubud, Ubud, www.mpl-ubud.com
■ MUSEUM RUDANA Tel: (0361) 975-779, 976-479, Peliatan, Ubud
■ MUSEUM SUBAK Tel: (0361) 810-315, Jl. Raya Kediri, Desa Sanggulan, Tabanan
■ BIMC Hospital Kuta ■ POLAND
■ BRITAIN
■ SPAIN
■ BIMC Hospital Nusa Dua
Jl. Tirta Nadi 20, Sanur, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 270-601, Fax: (0361) 287-804 E-mail: bcbali@dps.centrin.net.id
Istana Kuta Galeria, Blok Vallet 2, No. 11 Jl. Patih Jelantik, Kuta Tel: (0361) 769-296, Fax: (0361) 769-296 E-mail: espana_bali@blueline.net.id
24h Accident and Emergency Centre, 24h Medical Centre, international standard hospital with fully equipped ambulances, emergency room, intensive care unit, operating theatres, radiology and pathology, ward rooms, international and multilingual team of medical experts, CosMedic Centre, Dialysis Centre, Dental Centre. Kawasan BTDC, Blok D, Nusa Dua 80363, Tel: (0361) 3000-911, Fax: (0361) 3001-150
NEW ZEALAND Jl. Tantular No. 32, Renon - Denpasar 80234 Tel: (0361) 241-118, Fax: (0361) 221-195 E-mail: bali.congen@dfat.gov.au www.bali.indonesia.embassy.gov.au
■ AGUNG RAI MUSEUM OF ART
■ INTERNATIONAL SOS CLINIC
Jl.Gunung Agung 93, Denpasar 80118 Tel: (0361) 426-171, Fax: (0361) 426-477 E-mail: konsulslowakbali@yahoo.com
■ AUSTRALIA, CANADA,
MUSEUMS
■ MUSEUM PURI LUKISAN
KCB Travel, Jl. Raya Kuta 127, Kuta Tel: (0361) 761-502, Fax: (0361) 752-777 E-mail: dutchconsulate@kcb-tours.com
24h Accident and Emergency Centre, 24h Medical Centre, international standard hospital with fully equipped ambulances, emergency room, intensive care unit, operating theatres, radiology and pathology, ward rooms, international and multilingual team of medical experts, CosMedic Centre for non-invasive and invasive cosmetic and aesthetic treatments. Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai 100X, Kuta 80361 Tel: (0361) 761-263, Fax: (0361) 767-701
CONSULATES
■ RUMAH SAKIT UMUM PUSAT SANGLAH (General Hospital): Jl. Diponegoro, Sanglah, Denpasar. Tel: (0361) 227-911/15
Jl. Raya Petitenget No. 11, Block I/C, Banjar Umasari, Kerobokan Tel: (0361) 732-165, Fax: (0361) 732-165 E-mail: consul@balipolandconsulate.com
■ SLOVAKIA
TOURIST INFO. ■ INTEGRATED TOURISM INFORMATION CENTER (ITIC) A one-stop tourist information complex of ten provinces in Indonesia comprising Bali, Lampung, Jakarta, Banten, West Java, Central Java, East Java, Jogjakarta. Jl. Raya Kuta 2, Kuta, 80361; Tel: (0361) 766-188
■ NGURAH RAI INTERNATIONAL
■ BRAZIL Jl. Raya Legian No. 186, Kuta Tel: (0361) 757-775, Fax: (0361) 751-005 E–mail: brazilconsul@bali.net
■ SWEDEN & FINLAND Segara Village Hotel, Jl. Segara Ayu Tel: (0361) 282-211, Fax: 282-211 E-mail: sweconsul@yahoo.com
■ CHILE Jl. Jl. Pengembak Gg 1 No. 3, Sanur, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 756-781, Fax: (0361) 756-783 E-mail: chilehonconsulate@bali-villa.com
■ SWITZERLAND & AUSTRIA Jl. Ganetri 9 D, Gatot Subroto Timur, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 264-149, Fax: (0361) 243-747 E-mail: bali@honrep.ch
■ CZECH REPUBLIC Jl. Pengembak 17 Sanur.
■ THAILAND Jl. Puputan Raya No. 81,
78
■ SILOAM HOSPITALS 24-hour emergency 779-911 Jl. Sunset Road No. 818, Kuta, Badung, Bali Tel: +62-361-779-900 E-mail: info.bali@siloamhospitals.com
BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2015
AIRPORT Tel: (0361) 751-011
■ BADUNG GOVERNMENT TOURISM OFFICE Jl. Kuta Raya 2, Kuta Tel: (0361) 756-175/76 ■ BALI GOVERNMENT TOURISM OFFICE Jl. Supratman, Niti Mandala, Renon, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 222-387 ■ SINGARAJA TOURIST INFORMATION OFFICE Jl. Veteran 23, Singaraja Tel: (0362) 251-41
■ UBUD TOURIST INFORMATION SERVICE Jl. Raya Ubud, Gianyar Tel: (0361) 96-285, 973-285; 8 am - 9 pm
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