THE SUN... THE SAND... THE SURF... THE CULTURE OF PARADISE AND OVER 18,000 SURROUNDING ISLANDS
BALI & BEYOND MARCH 2010
VOLUME 12 NO. 118
EARTH’S
LAST GUARDIANS
ISLANDS ON THE
RIM
THE BADUY PEOPLE ARE ONE OF THE FEW REMAINING TRADITIONAL TRIBES WHO ARE STILL VERY MUCH IN TUNE WITH NATURE
SAWU AND RAIJUA’S REMOTE LOCATION LURES THE ADVENTUROUS TO VENTURE AND DISCOVER ON THEIR OWN
WHEN SPORT AND SPIRIT BLEND
COMPLIMENTARY
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NEW & NEWS • INFO INDEX • MAP OF BALI • CLASSIFIED COLUMNS BALI&BEYOND
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teamtalk 03.10 ON YOUR MARCH GET SET… ‘Om Swastiastu...’ Welcome to the Indonesian archipelago and welcome to our March 2010 edition of Bali & Beyond! To start off with, this month’s Craft & Culture coincides with the second international yoga event to be held in Bali from March 3-10. It starts from the viewpoint of how yoga classes have rapidly flourished in recent times, and different forms have also been adopted in daily life by the Balinese, not only from a philosophical standpoint as a way to connect with the Divine, but also from a ritualistic standpoint. People visiting Bali are often young, energetic and enthusiastic. Eager to experience and learn more about life in a new environment, they come to Bali to surf, have fun and enjoy the sun. A large portion of them are students taking a break from studying in the form of a short vacation or a longer trip. The latter choice is often a tempting one, but most students find it impossible to justify a long absence from their studies in the name of merely a longer vacation. But what if the two could be combined? Mikael Kiuru of Asia Exchange Ltd. recently sent us some hints through this month’s Pondering Point. In Profile & Portraits, it’s a well-known persona from Ubud, the place that had just been hailed as “The Best City in Asia” by readers of Conde Nest Traveller. We sat down with Murni, owner of Murni’s Warung, one of the restaurants hailing from the early days of Ubud’s tourism growth that has endured and progressed until now, to talk about her recollections on the place’s development. Michelin Stars have been the keyword lately in the island’s dining scene, where Michelin Star Chefs from the world over have descended upon Bali to treat foodies to the best dining experiences. Recently, an acclaimed
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contributors
restaurant in Ubud inaugurated its International Star Guest Chef Promotion Series when former chef-owner of Au Crocodile, 3-Star Michelin Chef Emile Jung, visited Mozaic Restaurant Gastronomique in Bali for two nights of culinary festivities. Find out about it through Invite & Indulge. In this month’s Beyond Bali, we present to you a tale from islands on the rim. The island of Sawu is located between Timor and the island of Sumba, right in the Sawu Sea in the East Nusa Tenggara province. Overall, it is at the southernmost region of the Indonesian archipelago, bordering directly with Australia in the south. One of the attractions of Sawu and Raijua (its west neighboring island) actually lies in the scarcely available information on the island itself. You would hardly find writings of it, from brochures or photography. Its remote position lures the adventurous to venture and discover. Capital Corner this month covers a different aspect, a pause from the highly modern lifestyle and the hubbub of the metropolis. Our team of contributors presents to you the Baduy people, living only a 5 hours drive from Jakarta, hidden at the feet of the Kendeng Mountain. They are one of the few remaining traditional tribes who are still very much in tune with nature. Their unique customs and religious beliefs do not allow modernity to infiltrate in any way. Today, they are still living the way their ancestors used to live hundreds of years ago, as if trapped in a time capsule. A fact made even more remarkable by their actual proximity to Jakarta, the capital of excess and everything modern.
Fadil Aziz is a travel photographer whose main passion is capturing the archipelago’s beauty. View his portfolio at www.alcibbumphotography.com
Donny Cahyadi continuously feeds us with fresh photos by the week. A shutter-happy guy who enjoys fiddling around with his camera, as well as his mustache.
Josua Alessandro loves to photograph human subjects, cultures and landscapes. His portfolio can be viewed at www.escapadepictures.com
Patricia Ivana loves writing, which also finances her travels. She loves the beach and wishes to go to all the beautiful beaches in the world. Don’t we all?
Come and see the beauty, taste the flavors and witness the diverse highlights and colorful attractions for yourself! Happy reading and keep safe! ‘Om Shanti Shanti Shanti Om…’ The Team
Vincent Herry is an avid photographer. His portfolio at vincentherry.com spans many styles and angles, from fashion to culture, indoors and out.
BALI & BEYOND Deputy General Manager Managing Editor
GOESTAMAR ARDIBRATA goestamar@baliandbeyond.co.id NYOMAN ARI GUNADI eric@baliandbeyond.co.id
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Editorial Advisors
A.A. GEDE RAI, JOHN M. DANIELS
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Advertising & MarComm. Manager
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Distribution
NYOMAN TRI HARIAN SAPUTRA
Contributors JOSUA ALESSANDRO, FADIL AZIZ (ALCIBBUM PHOTOGRAPHY), DONNY CAHYADI, VINCENT HERRY, PATRICIA IVANA, SENGE (STOCK.XCHNG)
Jakarta Marketing Services/Subscription Tel: (021) 315 2683/84, 391 0969 Publisher PT. BUMI DIAN KUSUMA Commissioner SOETIKNO SOEDARJO Director MAULANA INDRAGUNA SUTOWO Division Head MRA Printed Media INDRIATI WIRJANTO Printing PT. SUBUR JARINGAN CETAK TERPADU, JAKARTA OFFICE Bali White House - Jl. Dewi Sri No. 23 Block IV, Kuta 80361- Bali Tel: +62 361 8868601-2, Fax: +62 361 750075 E-mail:mag@baliandbeyond.co.id http://www.baliandbeyond.co.id Bali & Beyond Magazine is published monthly by PT. Bumi Dian Kusuma under the direction of MRA Media, Jakarta. Although every care is taken, neither the publishers nor any of their designees assume responsibility for the opinions and information expressed by editorial contributors. All material in this publication is copyrighted and cannot be reproduced without written permission of the publisher or author. All trademark and rights to Bali & Beyond are reserved by PT Bumi Dian Kusuma. Editorial materials may be submitted for consideration to the editorial office. Bali & Beyond is not responsible for the return of unsolicited material. Š 2006 Bali & Beyond ISSN 0216-4590
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contents 03.10 THE SUN... THE SAND... THE SURF... THE CULTURE OF PARADISE AND OVER 18,000 SURROUNDING ISLANDS
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Sawu and Raijua’s allure lies in the scarcely available information of the islands itself. Its remote position lures the adventurous to discover on their own. BALI&BEYOND
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CRAFT&CULTURE WHEN SPORT AND SPIRIT BLEND Yoga has long been adopted into the daily lives of the Balinese, not only from a philosophical standpoint but also as a way to connect with the Divine from a ritualistic standpoint.
26 INVITE&INDULGE STARS FOR ALL SEASONS Mozaic Restaurant inaugurated its International Star Guest Chef Promotion Series recently with a visiting 3-Star Michelin Chef.
GETTY IMAGES
BEYONDBALI TALE FROM ISLANDS ON THE RIM
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PHOTO BY ALCIBBUM PHOTOGRAPHY
March 2010 Volume 12 No. 118
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contents
THE SUN... THE SAND... THE SURF... THE CULTURE OF PARADISE AND OVER 18,000 SURROUNDING ISLANDS
March 2010 Volume 12 No. 118
PROFILE&PORTRAIT PHOTO COURTESY ASTON INTERNATIONAL
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MURNI’S STORY
COVER
The owner of one of the restaurants hailing from the early days of Ubud’s tourism growth talks about her recollections of the place’s development.
Yogini & Mudra Senge (stock.xchng)
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36PONDERINGPOINT
STUDY N' ENJOY PARADISE PHOTO COURTERSY MURNI’S WARUNG
Is it possible to combine studying and life in paradise? 40 ACTION&ATTRACTIONS
OUT OF VILLA, INTO VALLEY
PHOTO BY NYOMAN ARI GUNADI
Four Seasons Resort Bali at Sayan lets guests experience a day in the life of a Balinese farmer, which includes a morning trek, rice planting, and an inspired spa ritual.
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12 NEW&NEWS This month’s select news updates from the island’s tourism industry and what’s new around the island. 58 BEYONDUPDATES News updates from the tourism industry and what’s new beyond Bali. 62 COMMUNITYCALENDAR Schedules, calendar highlights and various happenings of interest, from art exhibitions to special events.
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66 SEE&SEEN Snapshots of events and happenings within the preceding month.
CAPITALCORNER EARTH’S LAST GUARDIANS
70 BALIMAPS Map of Bali showing specific tourism areas and places of interest, as well as a distance scale between the island’s main destinations.
The Baduy people, hidden at the feet of the Kendeng Mountain, are one of the few remaining traditional tribes who are still very much in tune with nature.
73 CLASSIFIEDCOLUMNS Listings and product descriptions from various clientele. 74 INFOINDEX Useful directory of companies and island-based businesses.
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NEW&NEWS
ENTER THE
GARDEN
The St. Regis Bali Resort recently launched its tropical park, which features a Chef’s Garden, a dinner venue called Dulang (literally ‘royal plate’), and a hammock garden. The St. Regis Tropical Park, spanning over 7 thousand square meters, was created as an extension for relaxation within the 8.8 hectares of land that the St. Regis Bali Resort sits on and offers guests an additional retreat and activity within the resort. Guests can also witness the first Orchid Pavilion featuring up to 50 species of orchids. The St. Regis Bali Resort, Nusa Dua, (0361) 8478-111; www.stregis.com/bali
SURF’S UP IN UBUD
DELICIOUS ADDITIONS Cafe Jemme offers more delicious gourmet additions on its extensive menu at affordable prices. Entrees include Garlic & Herb Baked Portobello Mushroom, Cheese & Caramelized Onion Quesadilla topped with ratatouille and fresh asparagus spears and the Jemme Classic Prawn Cocktail served with classic cocktail sauce and gazpacho sambal. For the mains there are Butter Curry of Seafood served with flakey pastry and cucumber salsa, and definitely a must try is the Oven Roasted Corn-fed Chicken for 2 - boned and roasted with fresh herbs served with cauliflower cream, cheesy mash, buttered peas and carrots and a trio of gravies. Other ‘must try’s are found under the Jemme Fruity Martinis list, namely the Choco Blackberry as well as the Apple Martini. Cafe Jemme, Jl. Raya Petitenget No.28, Kerobokan, (0361) 732-392 12
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Quiksilver has opened a brand new store showcasing surf fashion and street wear products from the brands Quiksilver, Roxy, and DC on Monkey Forest Street in Ubud. The Quiksilver Ubud store uses traditional materials such as Silakarang Stone from nearby Gianyar and environmentally friendly bamboo and rattan for its interior, blending the store right in with the surrounding environment. The new Quiksilver store offers a complete selection of apparel and accessories ranging from board shorts and bikinis to T’shirts and hooded sweatshirts, as well as full range of accessories like bags and backpacks. www.quiksilver.com
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NEW&NEWS
TRIUMPHANT Returning home to Bali with one of the culinary world’s most prestigious prizes, I Wayan Wicaya, the winner of the Global Chefs Challenge 2010, was greeted enthusiastically by friends, family and colleagues last month. The Global Chefs Challenge is the largest single chefs competition in the world, sponsored by the World Association of Chef Societies (WACS) and entered in by 88 countries in 7 seven continental regional finals. Every two years, the finalists from the seven regions of the world take to the stoves to
GOING GRAND Aston at the Grand Kuta Hotel & Residence opens this month as a modern minimalist hotel and residence with luxurious design. Strategically located and within close reach of the Ngurah Rai International Airport, Kuta, Legian, Seminyak and Denpasar, the Grand Kuta serves as a resort style residence equipped with amenities for convenience. Aston at Grand Kuta Hotel & Residence, Jl. Dewi Sri No. 8, (0361) 765-976; www.grandkuta.com
ENJOY THE SCENE The Scene recently opened as a guesthouse-style resort where visitors can enjoy soothing spa treatments, sophisticated nail services and delectable dining atop Pecatu Hill in Uluwatu. Guests are treated to a relaxing experience at the indoor and outdoor areas of their choice, including two salons adorned with traditional crafts, a poolside area and gazebos. The Scene offers a variety of selections for couples, families and other groups plus a special bridal package to make honeymoons even more memorable. As for dining, The Scene presents a fusion of Japanese and Indonesian culinary pleasures, focusing mainly on seafood. The Scene, Jl. Labuan Sait, Uluwatu (0361) 847-0646; www.thescene-bali.com 14
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prepare a four-course dinner for twelve people to exacting standards. Every move is watched and judged. The results are scored by a jury of experts and the winner is the chef who has created the dishes to the highest culinary, food hygiene and preparation standards. The six other Global Finalists were from Norway, Canada, Portugal, Holland, Dubai, and Australia. I Wayan Wicaya, Executive Sous chef of Bulgari, has been leading up to this final for two years. First securing the title for Indonesia, and then winning the Global Chef Asia competition, then finally to Chile, where he has proved beyond a doubt that Indonesia’s culinary industry is producing world-class chefs. www.balichefs.com
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NEW&NEWS
NEW AT HELM InterContinental Bali Resort recently announced the appointment of Phil Riley as General Manager & Regional General Manager IHG Indonesia. With over 30 years of hospitality management experience, Phil brings a meticulous understanding of luxury hotel operations to the InterContinental Bali Resort. He arrived in Bali after a 14-month tenure as General Manager of the recently opened InterContinental Asiana Saigon as well as IHG Regional General Manager Vietnam. InterContinental Bali Resort, Jalan Uluwatu 45, Jimbaran (0361) 701-888; www.interconti.com
ON THE HILL Chateau de Bali Ungasan Luxury Villas & Medical Spa recently had its soft-opening on the island’s southern peninsula. The new 5-star luxury villas offer ultimate holiday luxury combined with personal service. The elegant contemporary villas are complete with private swimming pool, whirlpool, sauna, Balinese gazebo and lush tropical garden complemented by elite clubhouse facilities. Perched on the hill of Ungasan village and overlooking the Indian Ocean, Chateau de Bali Ungasan Luxury Villas & Medical Spa features 96 wellness ocean view villas, a medical spa, sauna in each villa, club lounge, wine bar and a health doctor to assist in detox, slimming and de-stressing programs together with a vegetarian chef who prepares healthy meals at the restaurant and for individualized nutritious programs. Chateau de Bali’s grand opening is planned for this month. Chateau de Bali Jl. Pura Masuka Ungasan, Br. Kertha Lestari, Ungasan (0361) 877-3288; www.chateaudebali.com
TO THE FIRST Thermes Marins Bali at the Ayana Resort and Spa Bali has received the World’s Best Spa Award by the Conde Nast Traveler’s International Readers’ Survey 2010. This latest accolade adds the list of the resort’s achievements following its re-branding in May of last year. The resort will be celebrating its 1st Anniversary this April, with various attractive promotions on offer. Ayana Resort and Spa Bali, Jalan Karang Mas Sejahtera, Jimbaran, (0361) 702-222 www.ayanaresort.com
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NEW&NEWS
ECO SOUNDS The all new Bali Eco Village eco-lodge on the hills of Belok-Lauak in North Bali boasts 5 lodges, a restaurant and a spa, which is ideal for a medium sized group and is a perfect spot for nature lovers who want to experience the unspoiled nature and tranquility while enjoying all the amenities of fine lodging and dining. Their commitment is to provide guests with the vacation they desire. Adventure seekers are offered opportunities to enjoy beautiful walks and lovely hiking trails to waterfalls and many others excursions. For people seeking a tranquil setting to decompress, they offer one of the most peaceful places in Bali surrounded by impressive nature and completed by a natural spa. www.baliecovillage.com
BIG 8 REVITALIZATION The Westin Resort Nusa Dua, Bali announces its guest room revitalization plan that will commence in May 2010 for one year. The 8 million dollar renovation project will include a comprehensive transformation that will result in sleek and sophisticated looking guest rooms with a tropical edge. Ergonomic designed furnishings and personal touches will take every conceivable guest need into careful consideration. Guest rooms will feature the new generation of Heavenly Bed, a spacious 1.37 meter bed in the double-double rooms, I-pod dock with alarm clock, bedside master switch board, audio visual entertainment port, extended bathroom complete with standing shower and a separate bathtub, double vanity, 37� flat screen television, personalized in-room shop with lifestyle products set along with a new ergonomic refreshment center for convenience, as well as dual wardrobe areas with ample of space and drawers to store belongings. www.westinbalitransformation.com
SECOND SOUR Sour Sally Frozen Yogurt Boutique recently opened its second outlet at the Discovery Shopping Mall Unit MG – 1 after successfully opening 20 of its frozen yogurt outlets in various youth lifestyle venues in Indonesia, and its first in Bali at the Mal Bali Galeria Food Terrace 1A08. Non-fat frozen yogurt flavors include Original Plain, Green Tea, Pinklicious (Strawberry), Twist (Original Plain and Green Tea or Original Plain and Strawberry). 20 toppings are available. www.mysoursally.com
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CRAFT&CULTURE
WHEN SPORT AND SPIRIT BLEND
PHOTO BY VINCENT HERRY
Yoga boasts a very long history. It predates religions in human history. Its introduction was estimated to be 3,000 years ago. This has been proved by archeological findings such as effigies showing various Yogic postures. .
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A
midst a hectic world and in an age when time seems to fly much faster, us humans long for a moment of respite. Something that will keep us healthy in this era full of pollution. One option is general physical exercise,
and another is Yoga. It is no wonder that Yoga classes have rapidly flourished recently. To talk of balance between the body and mind, think back to the ancient Latin quotation “Mens sana in corpore sano,” or literally, a sound mind is a sound body, and vice versa. Happiness is in the mind and a clear mind comes from a healthy body. So if one wants to be happy they need to heal the physique and mind. This happiness starts from a clear mind and a healthy body. One way of achieving this balance is by doing yoga, a way that has gained much popularity in recent times. Yoga boasts a very long history. It predates religions in human history. Its introduction was estimated to be 3,000 years ago, in Harappa and Mahenjo Daro, two ancient Indian cities near today’s India, Nepal, and Pakistan. This has been proved by archeological findings such as effigies in showing various Yogic postures. This region is known as where the oldest of religions, namely Hinduism, originated. Its existence then unified, thus coming to the conclusion by many that yoga is part of the religion. Yoga is derived from the Sanskrit ‘Yuj’ that means ‘to relate’. Hinduism itself has teachings are connected to Yoga, namely Catur Yoga or the four ways to connect oneself with the Divine. The ways include what is known as Bhakti Yoga, Karma Yoga, Jnana Yoga and
Hotels package yoga into their attractive programs. The Sanur Beach Hotel for instance, provides yoga every morning for an hour at 9 a.m. If you miss the morning class, you can always catch the afternoon session.
PHOTO BY DONNY CAHYADI
Raja Yoga. Bhakti Yoga is a way that implements the
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GETTY IMAGES
Usually Yoga will start off with a brief meditation, breath control, and then enter into the main movements, then is again closed by breath control and meditation.
senses, applied in love and devotion and
referred to as Yogin. In India the Yogin
of Rsi Patanjali, Yoga was taught verbally
with profuse prayer.
enter forests for seclusion and perform
and handed down through the generations
extraordinary physical feats. Through
from teacher to disciple.
Karma Yoga is a way by the use
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of labor. Doing something and giving
modern times, Raja Yoga came to be
sincerely without expecting returns. Many
known merely as Yoga.
The Yogi, in executing their acrobaticlike moves, goes through various training
Balinese have chosen to implement this
According to historical records,
and the previous way in their daily lives.
Raja Yoga or yoga as we know it was
to achieve amazing physical flexibility. They not only conduct physical exercises and
Their lives are profuse with prayers and
introduced by a Yogi by the name of Rsi
spiritual training but also fast, avoiding
offerings to connect with the Divine.
Patanjali around the year 200-100 BC. He
pleasure, and seek places far from busy
The third way, Jnana Yoga, is by
was known as a yoga reformist, due to his
activities to help concentrate and deter
offering knowledge to society and its
rendering of the physical exercise learned
them from worldly desires.
emphasis is on logic. The fourth,
more systematically and structurally
Yet to learn yoga nowadays you do
Raja Yoga, is through self-control
through his books Yoga Sutra and the
not need the old ways. What becomes
and restraint. Followers of Raja Yoga are
Astangga Yoga system. Before the era
the emphasis on yoga today is to execute
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postures and control over breath and positions, as well as controlling the mind and focusing it towards peace. Yoga as we know it now is movements
cooling down effect. The exercise has recently become very popular. It is not difficult to find places providing yoga classes. Now nearly all
and postures that put forth discipline in
hotels provide wellness programs and
obtaining physical and mental health.
yoga on their guest activities lists. They
Usually a movement will start off with a
also provide yoga instructors from within
brief meditation, breath control, and then
Bali and even abroad.
enter into the main movements, then is closed by breath control and meditation. When factors such as space and time
Hotels package yoga into their attractive programs. The Sanur Beach Hotel for instance, provides yoga every
restrict muscle stretching and such, then
morning for an hour at 9 a.m. If you miss
one can try the simplest of forms, through
the morning class, you can always catch
pranayama or breath control.
the afternoon session. Participation is
Controlling inhalation and exhalation,
Rp. 100,000 per class. But frequent
as well as the prolonged retention of
participants can enroll in the annual
breath in the lungs eases in relaxation. It
membership for Rp. 3.5 million.
is scientifically explained that pranayama
Sri Asta Kesari, a yoga instructor at the
provides more oxygen to the bloodstream.
Sanur Beach Hotel who is also the Guest
It also aids the mind and senses as a
Activity and Recreation Manager explains
PHOTOS COURTESY BALI INDIA FOUNDATION
Dr. Somvir, founder of Bali International Yoga Festival (above and below), leads the Bali India Foundation, an organization which opens Yoga classes to the public as part of their activities. The foundation publishes a Yoga periodical and it organizes its second Bali International Yoga Festival this month.
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GETTY IMAGES
that guest enthusiasm over the activity is
In 2009 they held the Bali International
holding and exhaling. This is followed by
relatively high. This is shown from the high
Yoga Festival. This year they’re doing it
certain mantras that aid in concentration.
revenue generated from the programs.
again for the second time.
Third is the cleansing of palms that also
Not many movements are taught. And
Public enthusiasm for yoga has rapidly
symbolize the cleansing of the body.
this goes back to the saying that it is better
increased. Now nearly every hotel can
to do 15 minutes a day and do it routinely
be found to provide yoga classes. In
position. Mantras are sounded eloquently
rather than exercising an hour for several
Indonesia, yoga has recently become a
by controlling the breath so even though
days and then stop.
part of the lifestyle adopted by the modern
prayers go on for several minutes,
human, especially in Bali.
participants do not feel the slightest
Sri said that what is essential in exercising yoga is not the intricate
The Balinese in older times had also
Prayers are executed in the asana
exhaustion. No rushing to get up after
acrobatic movements but those that
adopted yoga in their daily lives, not only
prayers can be seen, but they orderly wait
suit the body and those which touch the
from a philosophical standpoint, as a way
for the blessing sprinkles of holy water.
spiritual aspect. It seems that this is greatly
to connect with the Divine, but also from a
influenced by the religious aura of Bali.
ritualistic standpoint.
In Balinese culture, nearly all of it can be
Balinese Hindus have exercised yoga
Nevertheless, now we can find yoga in a more specific form. People don’t say that they are ‘conducting yoga’ when they pray
since early age. They attend temple
at a temple. Or, ‘doing yoga’ when they
prayers and sit in what is known as the
stretch their muscles before a jog. But they
Among those that have contributed to
asana posture. For the Balinese, asana is
‘do yoga’ when they sit on mats, in loose
the development of yoga in Bali is the Bali
the crossed-legged posture for the men,
attire, in a cozy place, and start executing
India Foundation. They open yoga classes
and to sit with the knees bent and folded
stretching to intricate postures. ■
for all ages, regardless of religion and
for the women. The second is pranayama,
Text and photos by
nationality, with several schedule options.
the control of breath between inhaling,
Ni Luh Dian Purniawati
connected to spirituality. Yoga is also done massively in Bali.
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INVITE&INDULGE
STARS FOR EVERY SEASON Mozaic Restaurant Gastronomique recently inaugurated its International Star Guest Chef Promotion Series when former chefowner of Au Crocodile in Strasbourg, France, 3-Star Michelin Chef Emile Jung, visited in Bali and together with Mozaic chef-owner Chris Salans put on their toques to present two evenings of an exclusive culinary journey.
T
he special event on
when raining or during rainy season, which
extraordinary exchange of ideas from the
February 19 and 20 was
was the case on this occasion).
two masters. And Emile Jung adds to this
declared an accustomed,
The fabulous success of 3 Michelin
but obviously anticipated,
Star guest chef Emile Jung collaborating
sellout at Mozaic. Within
with chef Chris Salans in developing the
only a matter of days since
tastes and techniques. The two special nights presented
menu and exchanging culinary ideas, was
a menu by the master chefs featuring
the announcement of the event, seats
just the start of a series of promotions
eloquently French menu titles with
were fully booked with the guest lists filled
and culinary workshops that are to feature
descriptions in English, and an optional
with the island’s personages of industry
acclaimed chefs from around the world.
pairing of the Alsace wines listed
and high society. On normal days, Mozaic
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a new Asian experience to his repertoire of
The two inaugural dinners at Mozaic
together with such delights as Napoleon
only accepts 60 guests a night; 30 indoor
also featured a pairing of wines from
of Langoustines and fresh crab meat
seats in an open-air traditional Balinese
Alsace (on the border between France and
with a salad of mache (paired with a
pavilion and 30 outdoor garden seats
Germany) where Emile Jung hails from,
2007 Trimbach Riesling), Indian Rock
scattered within the garden (not available
and the culinary journey was the fruit of this
Lobster and Golden Vermicelli with Pink
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Located just outside the charming community of Ubud, the intimate gardenset Mozaic Restaurant has become a destination restaurant for discriminating diners from around the world. BALI&BEYOND
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Chefs Chris Salans and Emile Jung in the kitchen.
Peppercorns (paired with a 2006 Les
mentioned his hometown Alsace, and
of the Vosges Mountains. After having
Princes Abbes Pinot Gris), Coral Trout and
the wines that he brought together with
completed his secondary education at
Baby Calamari in an Albertine Vermouth
him on his visit to present in the culinary
17, Emile became an apprentice in the
Sauce (paired with a 2006 Grand Cru
journey. One among the interesting
restaurant business and spent a year
Moenchberg Pinot Gris), Crispy Pigeon
facts, due to the location of Alsace being
learning the trade at the famous restaurant
and Foie Gras with Savoy Cabbage
smack-dab in a region bordering France
of the Maison Rouge Hotel in Strasbourg.
and ‘du Puy’ Lentils (paired with a 2006
and Germany, the cultures, was that the
He then worked in Lyon, a city well-known
Grenache & Carignan Syrah), Frozen
accent and food are a fine amalgamation
for its excellent gastronomy, at the Michelin
Parfait of Fresh Seasonal Cherries and
between the two countries. Indeed food
two-star restaurant La Mere Guy.
Kirsch with Crispy Pistachios (paired with
and culture represent each other in
a 2002 Gewurztraminer) and a Terrine
interesting ways. And this was reflected
Cuisine” - superb local products and a
of Melon and Strawberries in a Fresh
through the names of the wines he brought
great regional tradition. He also met Paul
Apple Gelée (paired with a 2007 Princes
– a bit of Bavarian twang along with
Bocuse, and credits him with stimulating
des Abbes Muscat), and petits fours
strong French based characteristics. Say,
his imagination and his interest in fine
concluding the experience.
“Grand Cru Moenchberg,” or “Domaines
cuisine. Due to his eclectic training and
Schlumberger” for instance.
his love for quality products, Emile Jung
Emile Jung, in a brief meeting with the media prior heading to the kitchen with Salans on the dinner series’ finale, 28
BALI&BEYOND
MARCH 2010
Emile was born in Masevaux, a picturesque Alsatian town at the foothills
There he discovered the classic “Grand
is always seeking innovations that add a personal style to his cuisine. He believes
in harmonious dishes and respect for natural products, and feels, “wine epitomizes the genius of cooking.” With an addition of daily touches to traditional dishes, he masterfully commands tasteful combinations. Poetic visual presentations of each plate offer final proof that Emile Jung is not only an extraordinary chef but an author as well. At his own Au Crocodile in Strasbourg France he was awarded 3 Stars by the famous Michelin Guide.
FRENCH TIRES TO CUISINE? Chefs the world over covet the Michelin star – the ‘Oscar of the restaurant world’, a recognition of premium talent for those who spend their lives slicing and dicing. Michelin stars are awarded annually and published in the Michelin Red Guide, the bible for gourmands the world over. First published in 1900 by Andre Michelin, a founding brother of the Michelin Tire Company, the Guide was designed for road trips, offering advice on car maintenance, lodgings, restaurants, even the location of public toilets. For the next twenty years it was given away free and covered only the French region of Europe. In 1920 the Michelin brothers started charging for the guide and in
PHOTO BY NYOMAN ARI GUNADI
1926 the star rating was introduced to measure
BALI&BEYOND
MARCH 2010
29
the first restaurant in Southeast Asia to be recognized by the prestigious Traditions et Qualité association as a member of ‘Les Grande Tables Du Monde’ (The Grand Tables of the World), joining an exclusive membership including the world’s most famous restaurants such as Lucas Carton (Alain Senderens), Le Louis XV and Plaza Athénée (Alain Ducasse), Guy Savoy (Guy Savoy) and The French Laundry (Thomas A Keller). Awarded a place amongst the top 100 best restaurants of the world in the 2009 San Pellegrino Guide and top 5 and top 6 best restaurants in Asia by the the quality of cooking in listed dining
Miele Guide in 2008 and 2009, Mozaic
establishments.
affirms its right at the top of the ‘must’ list
The Michelin Guide uses a system of
for gourmands.
symbols to identify the best hotels and restaurants within each comfort and price
SEASONS TO SAVOR
category. For restaurants, Michelin stars
Mozaic Restaurant also finds complements
are based on five criteria: quality of the
in its Mozaic Exclusive Catering, The
products, mastery of flavor and cooking,
Mozaic Lounge and its Workshop, a
“personality” of the cuisine, value for
culinary school by Chris Salans with the
money, and consistency between visits.
German brand high-end domestic and
Michelin stars are awarded to restaurants
kitchen appliances, Miele.
offering the finest cooking, regardless of
THE INTIMATE GARDEN
cuisine style. Stars represent only what
Located just outside the charming
Emile, Mozaic General Manager Nicola
is on the plate. They do not take into
community of Ubud, the intimate garden-
Scaramuzzino mentioned that they’ll
consideration interior decoration, service
set Mozaic Restaurant has become a
also be introducing a Facebook page
quality or table settings.
destination restaurant for discriminating
where promotional updates and program
diners from around the world. Chef Salans
schedules would be posted. And he also
countries, with New York City and San
blends the best of local and international
mentioned of the forthcoming series to be
Francisco having been introduced in
ingredients, prepared and presented
featured at Mozaic throughout the year,
2005, the first cities outside of Europe.
with a modern and innovative approach
with two events for each season.
Inspections are anonymous, once every
associating usual and unusual flavors to
eighteen months, and restaurant entries
sublimate the products presented. This
on the Olivier Berte Technical Training series
are not paid for, claiming to ensure
unique cuisine has been highly praised
scheduled somewhere this month. For
unbiased reviews. Although there had
amongst others in Condé Nast Traveler,
more information and updates on program
been a much circulated controversy in its
New York Magazine, National Geographic
schedules, contact info@mozaic-bali.com ■
star rating system, notably accusations
Traveler, Times Asia, The International
Text by Nyoman Ari Gunadi
of bias (published by a French company,
Herald Tribune and the New York Times,
Courtesy photos
towards French cuisine, etc.), it remains
and in the last few years Mozaic has also
a coveted title in the culinary world and
been bestowed with the honor of the
a respected source among gourmands.
Award of Excellence by Wine Spectator for
Workshop & Catering Gastronomiques,
Check out www.michelinguide.com for
its wine cellar.
Jl. Raya Sanggingan, Ubud,
Today the guide is written for twelve
more info. 30
BALI&BEYOND
Mozaic Restaurant Gastronomique was MARCH 2010
During the brief meeting with Chris and
As this goes to press, leaked were hints
■ Mozaic Restaurant, Lounge,
(0361) 975-768; www.mozaic-bali.com
BALI&BEYOND
MARCH 2010
31
PROFILE&PORTRAIT
MURNI’S STORY Bali & Beyond recently sat down with the namesake owner of Murni’s Warung, one of the restaurants hailing from the early days of Ubud’s tourism growth that has endured and progressed until now, to talk about her recollections on Ubud’s development.
Ni Wayan Murni in early 1970 (above) and the entrance gate to Murni’s shop and warung (below). Here one can witness her large antique collection.
S
itting on the lounge
I myself was at this time honored
listening to the sound of
by the acquaintance of Murni, owner of
Blues, it took me back
Murni’s Warung, one of the restaurants
to Ella Fitzgerald’ 30s.
dating back to the early days of Ubud’s
But glancing to my left at
tourism, which has endured and
the scenic high ledge of
progressed until now.
foliage and the rushing river down below
“Forgive me, I just got back from
me, plus the waitresses clad in Balinese
ngayah,” Murni said. She seemed to
attire, I was beamed back to reality – in
be in a bit of a rush, catching up to her
Ubud. The place had just been hailed as
appointment with me. Just like any other
“The Best City in Asia” by readers of the
Balinese woman, it was her obligation to
Conde Nest Traveller.
go to the temple for ngayah, a communal activity among village members where they gather together to do things such as temple cleansings and ceremonial preparations. Ngayah could last for several days. It’s no easy task being a Balinese woman. They not only readily go and serve for ngayah at temples but also take care of social and family activities such as weddings, ngaben cremations, and rites of passage for new family members, as well as other similar rituals in a banjar community. Ni Wayan Murni is 64 now, her hair grey and with wrinkles and lines on her face, yet her spirit and enthusiasm for life hasn’t diminished a bit. She has five children and eleven grandchildren, several businesses that must be looked after, including Murni’s Warung, a large antique collection and her help on a new book Secret of Bali,
32
BALI&BEYOND
MARCH 2010
Murni’s Warung in early 1970s (right) and Murni’s Warung today (above). To the left and right of the warung there had been many changes, but one thing that hasn’t changed is the lush valley and sound of the rushing river that reminds many of the Ubud of yore.
Fresh light on the morning of the world. “Back then there was only the
morning she would leave for Denpasar
To the left and right of the warung there
to get the freshest bread, tomatoes, and
have been many changes in line with the
Tjampuhan Hotel in Ubud,” said Murni.
ingredients that at that time were not yet
rapid progress over the years together with
Murni’s business instinct only started when
available in Ubud. At 9 she would be back
the increasingly busy Ubud. But one thing
she bought a piece of land not far from the
in Ubud and prepare to open her warung.
that has not changed is the lush valley and
hotel that was owned by the Ubud royalty
She repeated these similar chores every
the sound of the rushing river that reminds
and started to sell paintings and some
day. Back then she had her two cousins
many of the Ubud of yore. Many guests
souvenirs.
to help her out. Business was quite good.
are impressed with the warung. They
One month later she had added 3 more
somehow find constant déjà vu and live
tables to her space.
their memories there.
More than a few guests came in to the warung to shop and look around. It came to be that they did not only pay attention
“I learned a lot from my guests. I
to her wares but also her dining table, the
named my menu items with the names
a different and changed Ubud. Some
Many older tourists revisit and find
only dining table in the space.
of my friends who taught me the recipes.
of them are knowledgeable about the
“They said, ‘I want this’. They were
Mary Sandwich for instance, was due to
situation and the changes and understand
hungry and wanted to eat. I said, ‘but this
Mary teaching me to make sandwiches,”
that change is inevitable, but others are
is my lunch – not for sale,’” she recalls.
recalls Murni.
disappointed. They imagine the ‘village’ of
This was what sparked her initial idea to
“I was lucky to have gotten this space,”
Ubud, yet in reality find the ‘city of Ubud.
start selling food. At the beginning she
she continued. “I bought it in 1974 and set
took a bit of her mother’s wares at the
up this warung. Starting with one level, I
Murni has vivid memories of the road as
Ubud market and transferred them to her
gradually expanded downwards. Some of
a once lonely footpath amongst a vast
warung. Eventually she started to learn to
it had been retained, such as the footpath
spread of rice paddies. That frequently
make sandwiches. The western snacks
that leads down to the river. Back then
muddy path during the rainy season has
she learned from her guests who later on
there was no such thing as channeled water
since changed into a hard paved road, and
became her close friends.
or water companies; there was not even
the rice fields have turned into an array of
electricity in Ubud at that time!”
cafes, art shops, and hotels on both sides.
Murni was resilient. At 4 o’clock in the
The street of Jalan Bisma for instance.
BALI&BEYOND
MARCH 2010
33
oto She still keeps this ph Murni in early 1970. rst fi the re we o wh ple of her friends, the cou warung customers.
Many trees have been felled without replanting schemes to follow. Lots of garbage is scattered around the
in all sorts of activities, despite her current
not easily made into reality in a flick of
health ups and downs.
a wrist. It’s like she never imagined that
This year she was supposed to head
Ubud would become what it is today, she
street with the lack of consciousness
to San Francisco for an exhibition of her
also never thought that she would have
to keep a cleaner environment. A lot of
antique collection. Yet she had to cancel
become a collector and have the chance
understanding must be planted into the
due to health. She has done several
to travel to other regions.
psyche of the locals.
exhibitions before, meeting up with like-
“We are proud to have been called The Best City in Asia, but let’s not let us ‘sink’
minded collectors from the world over. “I want to have a museum to display
Evening neared in, yet Ubud remained lively if not livelier. Several guests started to come and be seated at the dining tables. It
underneath the pride,” solemnly advised
my antiques,” said Murni. “Many of our
wasn’t such a busy day, but they seemed
Murni. “Over pride can lead to conceit. And
youth do not understand the significance
to enjoy the composed, comforting and
when we reach this stage, we’ll forget that
of their nation’s past. Then they’d be
hospitable Ubud nuance. ■
the true predicate given is a challenge for
surprised when they go abroad and see
Text by Ni Luh Dian Purniawati
us in maintaining it.”
their ancestral wealth on display there, as
Photo courtesy Jonathan Copeland and
I was to see the Sembiran weavings (from
Murni’s Warung
“We must keep on striving to become the best and remain the best,” Murni
North Bali) in the Netherlands. Not even
added with enthusiasm. Enthusiasm that
the Sembiran people themselves know
should be in the hearts of us all. At her late
much about their own heritage.”
years she remains energetic and engaged 34
BALI&BEYOND
MARCH 2010
Her dream of building a museum is
■ Murni’s Warung, Campuan, Ubud (0361) 975-233; www.murnis.com
BALI&BEYOND
MARCH 2010
35
PONDERINGPOINT
STUDY AND ENJOY PARADISE
36
BALI&BEYOND
MARCH 2010
Mikael Kiuru of Asia Exchange Ltd. recently sent us the following information on an interesting exchange study program for university students who want to experience Bali. Their studies concentrate on learning Bahasa Indonesia along with the local culture and customs. This way it aims to bring foreigners to Indonesia who are not just interested in partying for a few weeks and going home, but those who are really interested in the country, its culture and its people. Is it possible to combine studying and life in paradise?
P
eople visiting Bali are
absence from their studies in the name of
the past few years Asia has become
often young, energetic
just a longer vacation. But what if the two
one of the most popular destinations for
and enthusiastic. Eager
could be combined?
studying abroad and thus challenged the
to experience and learn
Nowadays, an increasing number of
old favorites. While major reasons are
more about life in a new
students complete part of their studies
undoubtedly the rising economic powers
environment, they come
abroad. At the university level a study
and the larger role of Asian nations on the
to Bali to surf, have fun and enjoy the sun.
abroad period is not only a vital part of
global market, more personal agendas
A large portion of them are students taking
a student’s degree but also an asset to
underlie.
a break from studying in the form of a
a CV, because it helps the job applicant
short vacation or a longer trip. The latter
stand out. In the past, student migration
Asia as tourist or backpacker can describe
choice is often a tempting one, but most
has concentrated towards Europe, the
the experience as being in a paradise on
students find it impossible to justify a long
United States and Australia, but during
earth: living costs are low, traveling within
Most of us who have visited South East
A large number of young visitors to Bali are students taking a break from studying in the form of a short vacation or a longer trip.
BALI&BEYOND
MARCH 2010
37
Students who have used the opportunity to experience a student exchange program often state that the study period has been the most fruitful experience of their lives.
and between countries is convenient, the
agreements usually only provide study
The tuition fees are very affordable – the
local people are warmhearted and gentle
places to a few selected applicants, so
costs are only 10-20% of what a semester
and the rich culture amaze the traveler with
finding a study abroad place independently
payment is in a Western country.
their never-ending wonders. Needless to
as a free-mover can be a long and
say, the growing economic importance of
unpredictable road.
Applying for this study program has been made possible by Udayana
Asia on a global scale makes the continent
Udayana University, located in
a good destination for traveling with regard
Denpasar - the capital of Bali, has
which handles the laborious paper
to studies and future career opportunities.
established a new study program called
work and provides students with useful
People who possess firsthand knowledge
“Bali International Program on Asian
information ranging from visa procedures
of Asia naturally have an edge when
Studies”, which includes courses in
to accommodation options. This way the
applying for jobs, not only at multinational
economics, tourism, law, culture and
applicant can enroll for the study abroad
companies but also governmental
language. This 4 month study program
period with ease and concentrate on more
organizations.
is given in English and all the people
important things, such as enjoying the
who fulfill the minimum requirements are
once-in-a-lifetime experience.
A study abroad period benefits
University’s partner Asia Exchange,
one’s future career and provides lifelong
warmly welcome to participate. Most of the
memories. Students who have used
applicants are university students in their
pack up your bags… You will receive a
the opportunity to experience a student
home countries, and by completing this
response about being approved for the
exchange program often state that the
study program they receive a respectable
study program within a week of sending in
study period has been the most fruitful
amount of credit to add to their university
your application.
experience of their lives so far. The only
degrees. In contrast, some of the students
problem is that the amount of study places
taking part in the program are not currently
for exchange students at Asian universities
studying at a university in their home
are often very limited compared to the
country but can make use of the earned
www.asiaexchange.org ■
demand. Universities’ exchange study
credits if they choose to enroll in the future.
Photos Nyoman Ari Gunadi
38
BALI&BEYOND
MARCH 2010
Interested? Fill out an application and
Grab you experience – in and outside the classroom! Visit the Asia Exchange website at:
BALI&BEYOND
MARCH 2010
39
ACTION&ATTRACTION
OUT OF VILLA, INTO VALLEY The Four Seasons Resort Bali at Sayan lets guests experience A Day in The Life of a Balinese Farmer, which includes a morning trek through the Ayung River valley, a chance to get shin-deep in the paddy fields, and to learn traditional agrarian techniques. 40
BALI&BEYOND
MARCH 2010
I
t was a beautiful early Thursday
John Heah of Heah & Company (London),
morning in January, when we together
who created a completely new image
with several colleagues headed up
for the Balinese hotel. The Four Seasons
to Sayan. Entrance into this resort’s
Resort at Sayan is a striking piece of
realm has always been full of dramatic
aerial sculpture, the huge elliptical lotus
yet solemn ‘wows’. Its striking setting
pond sitting above a base structure that
greets guests upon approach to the
appears like a romantic ruin set within
compound – a steep ravine filled with lush
this spectacular Ayung valley landscape.
tropical foliage bordering the blue cloud-
He also made sure that his dramatic
filled skyline, rushing flows of the river
design would sit seamlessly within the
below, and the terraced paddies that are
environment, through intact natural
still distinctive of the region.
elements. And this large lotus pool has
Entering the compound, all one can
since become the central appeal of the
encounter is a bale with a thatched roof
whole site. The site is a bowl. It’s almost
that looms tall as if aloft in the trees. Staff
like a bowl of rice because there are paddy
then readily welcome guests and escort
fields down there, everywhere.
them across this massive wooden bridge
One cannot but just pause for a minute,
that leads them to the lotus pond, and no
or more, at this man-made lotus pond,
sort of reception or lobby in sight.
which also happens to form the roof of the
This ‘pleasant bewilderment’ was the
main building. Here it enables guests to take in the 360-degree view of the green
COURTESY PHOTOS
literal objective of the resort’s architect;
After breakfast and a demonstration, guests get to tryout the tradition and have the opportunity to plant rice seeds.
BALI&BEYOND
MARCH 2010
41
The day’s adventures end with a traditional lunch of Nasi Campur, Indonesian “mixed rice”, enjoyed at a secluded bale along the river.
gorge. As a tropical retreat, everything
resort. However for some other guests,
about Four Seasons Resort Bali at Sayan
the break away from the facility and resort
spells romance, and it has served as a
compounds and getting closer to nature
passionate setting for various newlyweds
and the Bali highlands’ outback, might spell
and couples. After the vista pause, guests
‘relief’, ‘escape’ and ‘insightful.’
at last ‘find’ the lobby downstairs, directly underneath the pond. It was here that the day’s adventure
BALI&BEYOND
MARCH 2010
to experience ‘a day in the life of a Balinese
began. Despite the quirky title given
farmer’ since April last year. It gives guests
above, the excursion that takes guests
a glimpse into the values that run through
into the paddy field where they learn
the island’s agricultural society. Although
about traditional and organic grown
many lives of the locals have shifted,
herbs and spices, field irrigation, the
especially in the highly populated southern
best kinds of paddy and rice seedlings
parts of the island, many areas such as the
to be planted, and how to plant them,
uplands where paddies are lush retain the
is certainly on the more luxurious side.
agrarian ways.
An arduous trek for some, yes. Muddy
42
The Four Seasons Resort Bali at Sayan has provided the opportunity to its guests
The program begins with a morning trek
shins and soles and hands, yes. But a full
through the Ayung River valley. Our reliable
range of luxury features keeps bringing
guide for the day, courteous Four Seasons
you back and reminding you that you are
staff, Sayan local and mother of two, Ketut
still a consistently pampered guest of the
Sariani, showed us past the compound
and river and to the organic gardens with the various names of herbs labeled at each plant, and we quizzed each other on the local, Indonesian and English names of each. She won. We continued to traverse the picturesque terraced rice fields and jungle paths leading to the banks of the Ayung. Along the way, we witnessed the rustic activities of the local farmers and learned about the complex irrigation system used in the paddy fields, known locally as ‘Subak’. After working up an appetite on the trek breakfast was served at a private bale, overlooking mirror-like water surfaces of the terraces on the southern rim of the resort’s complex. We had tea boiled over a wood fire, together with a fresh breakfast. After the break and a demonstration, we had the opportunity to plant rice seeds. Balinese farmers are viewed as artists who sculpt the rice terraces. Pak Wayan Mudra showed us the ploughs and the way to level the mud to make way for the seedlings. We all put ourselves to the test afterwards. Pak Wayan also told us how to choose the right young coconut – not too ripe and not too young. Although the coconuts
BALI&BEYOND
MARCH 2010
43
of recycled paper and natural ingredients with pages filled with photographs from our Back to luxury and pampering... A luxury spa treatment inspired by the simple ‘batukali’ river stone.
adventure, as well as recipes of our lunch for us to try to cook and enjoy at home. In the album you’ll also find a “Certificate of Achievement”, certifying that you’ve “gone through an intensive familiarization program with the Four Seasons Resort Bali at Sayan’s farmer team… and are
were already picked for us that day (how
the river. The lunch wooden bento-style
now certified to be a Balinese farmer.
convenient), he mentioned that guests are
presentation of its Nasi Campur delivers
Congratulations.” Show it to the next
welcom to have a go at climbing up a tree
steamed Balinese red rice, “Be Pasih
Balinese farmer you meet in the rice field.
and picking their own! Well, if the trek and
Panggang” grilled fish served with the
Wait for the grin. Or better still, to your
the rice planting weren’t strenuous enough,
notorious spicy Balinese sauce of ‘sambal
friends and family back home, so they’ll
for some, that is.
matah’, “Kare Ayam” braised chicken in
want to have a go.
Following the refreshment break,
curry sauce with eggplant and lime leaf,
Another great activity on offer at the
with a dash of lemon with the swigs of
“Tempe Manis” wok-fried fermented
Four Seasons Resort at Sayan is the Tri
relief, it was time to get back to luxurious
bean cake with galangal and sweet soya
Hita Karana. Borrowed from the Balinese
pampering. Relaxing the sore muscles
sauce, and “Sayur Urap” Balinese style
philosophy of human beings’ harmonious
and scrubbing away the dirt of a hard
vegetables with roasted coconut, chili,
relationship with God, nature, and with
day’s labor (the real Balinese farmer would
shallots, and garlic. The latter consists of a
other human beings, it is translated into
perhaps chuckle at this). Instead of bathing
specific mix called Suna Cekuh, comprised
a package that includes a yoga class, a
in the river, you can indulge in a spa
of chopped shallots, garlic, wild ginger,
garden tour and a spa treatment. Find out
treatment that includes the application of
hot chili and vegetable oil, crushed black
more on how to have fun and get down
fresh herbal blends to the hair and scalp,
peppercorn and turmeric. All that with a
and dirty in the paddies – in style, as well
an invigorating river stone scrub to revive
fine assortment of various ‘sambal’ for you
as on other adventurous, interesting and
the skin, and a soothing Balinese massage
to further engage in discussion about. And
insightful packages with luxury services,
complete with fragrant coconut oil and
there’s the favorite ‘kolak pisang’ stewed
from Four Seasons Resorts Bali. ■
freshly grated ginger paste to warm and
banana dessert and fruit skewers for
Text and photos by Nyoman Ari Gunadi
relax the body. Luxury spa treatment…
dessert. Ibu Ketut Sariani accompanied us
inspired by the simple ‘batukali’ river stone.
throughout our hearty meal as we enjoyed
The day’s adventures end with
conversation and discussed further what
a traditional lunch of Nasi Campur,
we might had missed out on in the field.
Indonesian “mixed rice”. The meal is enjoyed at a more secluded bale along 44
BALI&BEYOND
MARCH 2010
In time, we were presented a unique memento, an album interestingly made up
■ Four Seasons Resorts Bali (0361) 701-010 ■ Four Seasons Bali at Sayan, Ubud (0361) 977-577 www.fourseasons.com/sayan
BALI&BEYOND
MARCH 2010
45
BEYONDBALI
SAWU AND RAIJUA: A TALE FROM ISLANDS ON THE RIM 46
BALI&BEYOND
MARCH 2010
Meals are served and drinks are passed around... Raja Ama Doko Lomi Djara and group are indulging delightedly in the English veal dish (the last on the ship) and the quality European beverages. Cheers all around on board the Endeavour that night in September of 1770. When Raja Ama Doko left the Endeavour, Captain James Cook ordered his crew to fire off nine salvos in honor of the king.
T
he following morning the captain and
shape (the Endeavour had hit a reef three months
his crew were invited on land to a
prior at the Great Barrier). They even hoped to
dinner hosted by Raja Ama Doko. The
discover another paradise like Tahiti, which they had
party was arranged especially for the
encountered the previous year.
crew of the Endeavour in response to the hospitality they received the day
prior on board the Endeavour. Sitting cross-legged on woven mats, no less than
Captain James Cook, known for his diplomacy and avoiding the use of violence, tried to win the heart of Raja Ama Doko Lomi Djara, the king of Seba, which today is the main town on the island of Sawu.
36 dishes were served in containers that most likely
His goal was none other than to secure supplies for
were made of lontar palm leaves. In them were rice,
his crew. The process of obtaining the rations was
frogs cooked in alcohol, and much more. Captain
quite complicated. After going through a process that
Cook was contented with the treats that evening, as
lasted several days, at last the captain’s wish was
the sailing crew could not even finish the feast.
fulfilled. He was able to load to his ship with buffaloes, goats, poultry, eggs, and more that were sufficient
THE ISLAND OF SAWU AND THE DISCOVERY OF AUSTRALIA
for the rest of his journey. The Endeavour could then
Captain James Cook has gone down in the world’s
bring the news of the discovery of a new continent,
sailing history with his “first fleet” and as the
Australia. Thanks to the hospitality of the Savunese!
“discoverer” of the Australian Continent (as well as
finally continue its journey back home to England and
And that’s what we can read from this global
the “discoverer” of the Hawaiian Islands and the first
voyager’s log. But unfortunately, nowadays hardly
to map New Zealand). He had just left Botany Bay,
any of the Savunese knows about this historical event
where his botanist had discovered a unique specimen
between their island and the discovery of the continent
when he and his legendary HMS Endeavour crew
to the south. Moreover, this historical event must be
“discovered” Sawu Island (roughly five months after
quoted from the notes of the explorer, as the only
the discovery of Australia).
possible evidence on the island is a carving depicting
Sawu is geographically located north of Australia and indeed lies in the route where the captain journeyed to return home to Europe. Coincidentally,
a European sailing ship and an inscription underneath it. The Endeavour, perhaps? Alas, no one can positively explain, as the inscription
the Endeavour encountered a Sawu Island that was
can no longer be deciphered. But Captain Cook and
strikingly still green (though it hasn’t received a single
his crew had indeed mentioned their visit to the Namata
drop of rain in the last seven months). From aboard
village located south of Seba where the carving lies…
the vessel could be seen villages and livestock. It was at this time when the Endeavour was in urgent need of
‘SAWU’, ‘SAVU’, ‘SABU’, OR ‘HAWU’?
replenishing its onboard supplies.
“What’s in a name?” goes Shakespeare. And yes,
Many of its crew had fallen ill and were in bad
names can lead to confusion. Especially when one has BALI&BEYOND
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The lontar palm remains to thrive in dry climates. So it is considered the tree of life among the Sawu, Raijua and Rote societies. From this tree can be harvested refreshing and energy boosting drinks from the sabu syrup. It is said that when given this syrup to drink, people can live only having one meal for a whole day.
so many! So let’s first clarify the name of
The island of Sawu is located between
TRADITIONAL, ORIGINAL
this island. This island we know as Sawu is
Timor and the Island of Sumba, right in
Life on Sawu, as well as on Raijua, is
also referred to as Savu, Sabu and Hawu.
the Sawu Sea in the province of East
traditional, although locals wearing traditional
All refer to the same island located 15
Nusa Tenggara. Overall, it is at the
clothing in daily life have already become
hours by ferry from Kupang. The difference
southernmost region of the Indonesian
rare. Though contact with the outside
is in the tongue, as Sawu is the Indonesian
archipelago. It borders directly with
world can be said to be at a minimum
name while Savu is English. And Sabu is
Australia in the south. The climate is
(ferry connections to Kupang are only twice
said to be from the pronunciation of the
largely influenced by the neighboring
a week, while flight schedules are very
Dutch, Hawu being the original name.
continent. This can be seen from the
indefinite), the locals in all their limitations
intensity of rainfall, which is at a minimum
have managed to rapidly adopt the way of
SELDOM WRITTEN ABOUT, LIKEWISE VISITED
(sometimes only 20 days of rain in a period
life of their neighbors. Motorcycles (with their
of three months in the wet season). And
loud and sound polluting noise) as well as
One of the attractions of Sawu and Raijua
the weather conditions in the neighboring
cellular mobile phones are two things that
(its western neighboring island) actually
country superficially ripple over to the
are ‘in’ with the local people. Yet apart from
lies in the scarcity of available information
island of lontar palms. The cold season
this their lives there are still relatively natural
about the island itself. You will hardly find
there would also cause cold and dry
and laid back.
writings of it, brochures or photography.
natural conditions in Sawu and Raijua. The
Secondly, its remote position also lures the
earth also resembles the red dirt of the
for instance (divided into four districts), only
adventurous to go and explore it.
Australian outback.
flows at night. Even Seba, which acts as
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Electricity in Seba on the island of Sawu
One of the attractions of Sawu and Raijua (its western neighboring island) actually lies in the scarcity of available information about the island itself. You will hardly find writings of it, brochures or photography. Secondly, its remote position also lures the adventurous to go and explore it.
families on the island! The rest are Catholic, Protestant and Jingitiu (the native religion of the Sawu and Raijua societies).
THE TREE OF LIFE The economic life here is leveraged by the seaweed cultivations that for the past several years have gained relatively good value. This is what breathes life into the people’s lives. Previously the people of Sawu and Raijua relied only on their lontar palms. God endowed sustenance on the arid lands with these plants.
the capital, is only comprised of two rows of pot-holed roads along 150 meters with food stalls and five-and-dime stores on the sides. Lodgings, as far as we found, were only two, both in Seba. Apart from that, you would have to stay at a local’s house. On the island of Raijua, which is populated by approximately 7,000 families, things are even simpler. No electricity. There is only one five-and-dime store and no food stalls whatsoever on the island. There is also no established lodging there. But we could stay at Bapak Hiriloji’s house, which only recently started to receive guests, or at the house of Bapak Daga. If you’re looking for Muslim cuisine, the family of Bapak Ismail, a public junior high school (SMP) teacher, can provide you with it as there are only three Muslim BALI&BEYOND
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INDONESIA SAWU ISLAND
dry climates. So it is considered the tree
RAIJUA – ANIMISTIC, PROSCRIPTIVE
of life among the Sawu, Raijua and Rote
Visiting Raijua is even more challenging.
Indonesia is indeed vast and rich.
societies. From this tree can be harvested
Although located only 20-30 kilometers
There are still many more areas in other
refreshing and energy boosting drinks from
west of Sawu, big waves there frequently
places that wait to be explored, not only
the sabu syrup. It is said that when given
become the journey’s main obstacle.
by foreigners but by its own people,
this syrup to drink, the people can live
Raijua is referred to as where the original
who need to explore their own backyard
only having one meal for a whole day. The
religions of Sawu and Raijua, called
more. According to the people of Raijua,
leaves can be made into food and beverage
Jingitiu, originated. The devout atmosphere
our visit as photographers and at same
containers, roofing material, and can also
of the ancient belief system has slowly
time as domestic tourists were the first
function as fertilizer. The midribs of the
started to fade, but remains of its animistic
or the second who came to their island.
tree can be made into partitions, fencing,
beliefs are still sensed in this traditional ikat
Others consisted of researchers and
and firewood. Back in olden times, the
weave producing island. This is notable
foreign surfers. Here we would also like to
leaves were also used as natural clothing
from the many proscriptions we must
extend our gratitude towards the family of
fiber! Its other uses include material for
adhere to when visiting this island.
Bapak Mahari, Bapak Rauf and Ibu Sehat
The lontar palm remains to thrive in
the famous stringed musical instrument
In aspects of tourism objects, both
discoveries can be seen through these photos.
Makarim for their hospitality during our
iconic to the area (called ‘sasando’), fans,
islands have their own specific assets. We
exotic adventure there. ■
ropes, and even cigarette rolls! And its tree
must explore on our own and discover
Text and photos by Fadil Aziz
stem can be made into central pillars for
its unique corners. Several of my own
(Alcibbum Photography)
houses. It is also said that when harvests of other crops fail (the other part of their diet is comprised of ground nuts), a family could live on the fermented drink of tuak or sabu sugar derived from only 2-3 lontar
NUSA TENGGARA TIMUR
palms. Such is the endowment of nature in the multifunctional form of a single palm. Sawu’s population exceeds that of Timor, which is notably not as arid.
NUSA TENGGRA TIMUR
NUSA TENGGARA TIMUR
SAWU ISLAND NUSA TENGGARA TIMUR
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KUPANG
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CAPITALCORNER
BADUY: EARTH’S LAST GUARDIANS 52
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Earth, our home, is suffering. The temperature is rising, glaciers are melting, sea levels are rising, and wildlife is dying as we power up our gadgets of modernity, releasing heat-trapping gases. Our forests are now barren because of irresponsible logging. We live carelessly, oblivious to the cries of Mother Earth, all in the name of modernization and technological advancement.
H
owever, it wasn’t always like this. There was a time when human beings were at one with nature. We used what we needed, and we did not exploit. Sadly, as civilization has evolved, the harmony between humans and nature has been greatly disturbed. Around the world, scientific findings reveal that the earth is now in a critical situation and environmentalists urge us to take immediate steps in preserving our
home for the future generations. The good news is some have been doing this since the day they populated the planet.
One tribe on this archipelago has been relentless in their effort to preserve the earth, and will continue to do so. They are the Baduy people. Living only a 5 hours drive from Jakarta, hidden at the feet of Kendeng Mountain, they are one of the few remaining traditional tribes who are still very much in tune with nature. Their unique customs and religious beliefs do not allow modernity to infiltrate them in any way. Today, they are still living the way their ancestors used to live hundreds of years ago, as if trapped in a time capsule. A fact made even more remarkable by their actual proximity to Jakarta, the capital of excess and everything modern. The origin of the Baduy is not perfectly clear. According to the book Baduy Bicara (Baduy Talks) by Asep Kurnia, one speculation is that the term ‘Baduy’ was a derivation from the word ‘badawi’ (Bedouin), a tribe of nomads who lived near the Arabian Peninsula. The Baduy people do have some similarities with the Badawi tribe; they are always active and on the move and they never cultivate the same field, but close one when they finish cultivating it and open another in a new area. The chiefs of the Baduy however, object to this speculation. According to them, Baduy is the name of the river that runs through the area. They also believe that they are the direct descendant of the first human on earth and that the spot that they live on is actually pancer bumi, the center of the earth. Baduy people sometimes call themselves the Kanekes people because the Indonesian government named the area that they live in Kanekes. This location of Kanekes is believed to be the embryo of the earth. Because they are the direct descendants of the first human on earth and the fact that they live at the center of the earth, it is therefore taboo for the Baduy people to treat the earth in manners that are deemed disrespectful. In fact, they BALI&BEYOND
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The Baduy people believe that their mission here on earth is to be the guardians who preserve the balance of the earth. They believe that by treating the earth with utter respect and not violating its functions, the earth and all its abundance will bring only benefits to the people populating it.
have a set of rules that they have lived by from generation to generation: What is long cannot be cut short, what is short cannot be lengthened, the mountains cannot be destroyed, the slopes cannot be harmed, always cut exactly what you need - no more no less, always peel exactly what you needno more no less, say wrong when it’s wrong, say right when it’s right, no cheating and no lying. The Baduy people believe that their mission here on earth is to be the guardians who preserve the balance of the earth. They believe that by treating the earth with utter respect and not violating its functions, the earth and all its abundance will bring only benefits to the people populating it. To ensure a perfect implementation of their mission, they divide themselves into two groups, namely the Inner Baduy (Baduy Dalam) and the Outer Baduy (Baduy Luar). The task of the Inner Baduy is to preserve their culture and the environment, while the task of the Outer Baduy is as protectors and filters, and to act as Baduy’s ambassador to the outside world, to show that the Baduy people are also part of the nation of Indonesia. And they stay true to their mission in preserving the earth, in every aspect of their lives. Take farming for example. They never damage the soil structure by digging too deep. They merely graze the surface before planting the seeds inside the holes on the surface of the land. The Baduy people do not have rice fields because rice fields change the structure of the land. They have non-irrigated fields instead and their 54
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Photographers and videographers are not allowed to take any picture in the Inner Baduy area and also in some of the Outer Baduy areas. These pictures taken were among those exceptions.
of tough resilient men who can walk at a remarkable speed. As a result of this practice, the air of Baduy is 100% pollution free and the sky is probably the bluest you’ll ever see in the densely populated island of Java – specifically in the province of West Java with its proximity to the capital city! The Baduy people are also famous for their friendliness. Although their customs do not allow them to be open to assimilation and outside influences, they are by nature good-hearted people because they believe in harmony. They welcome any visitor who comes to the village, providing a resting place in their patio and the owner of the house will serve water and fresh fruits. It is such a simple kindness that will rekindle your belief in humanity, if you ever lose it by living in a big and cynical city. On the other side, to preserve their values, they do not allow foreign visitors to stay more than one night in the village. Photographers and videographers are not allowed to take any picture in the
farming activities are limited to the slopes
of making the surface even by digging
Inner Baduy area and also in some of the
of the hills.
and flattening the ground, they use pillars
Outer Baduy areas. They are not open to
to support the house from below and the
schooling nor are they familiar with writing.
because they have to preserve the vegeta-
length of the pillars vary, following the
Everything is passed down verbally from
tion. There is one forest known as The
contour of the land.
generation to generation.
The top of the hill is off limits for farming
Forbidden Forest (Hutan Larangan) where
The same goes for the bridges that they
It is simply because they do not want
only certain respected members of the
build. Not a single nail is used; instead they
other cultures to infiltrate their way of think-
tribe are allowed to enter, and any activity
tie the bridge together with palm fibers.
ing and corrupt their minds and steer them
in the forest that involves disturbing the
That way, they do not ‘harm’ the bamboo
away from their original mission, which is
vegetation is strictly forbidden. According
used to make the bridge.
preserving the earth.
to their belief, the forest is closed because
The Baduy people do not allow any
Whether or not the Baduy people
it is the Essence of the Universe (Sasaka
form of modern transportation to enter
really are the direct descendant of the
Domas) and also because it is located in
their village, not even the pollution-free
first human on earth remains a question.
the South, which is the direction of prayers
bicycle. In fact they never even build
However, seeing how harmonious their
for the Baduy people, therefore it is con-
roads. To get from one village to another
relationship is with nature and how they go
sidered holy. However, if we want to look
in the Kanekes area you need to hike over
to great lengths to carry out their mission,
at it from the environmental point of view,
several hills using unforgiving tracks. Even
unfazed by the lure of modernization and
it is an undeniable proof that the Baduy
for emergencies, such as when somebody
the comfort that technology brings despite
people have a deep understanding of the
needs to get to a neighboring village for
the cost, it is not entirely wrong for us to
concept of conserving the forest.
medical attention, no motor transporta-
think the Baduy people might indeed be
tion is allowed when picking up the patient
the last guardians of the Planet Earth. ■
Baduy people never flatten the ground.
from the village. Those whose physical
Text by Patricia Ivana
They never ‘disturb’ the soil. If a house is
conditions are not fit for such a strenuous
Photos by Josua Alessandro
to be built on an uneven surface, instead
walk will be carried in a litter by a group
www.escapadepictures.com
Another interesting fact is that the
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BEYONDUPDATES BOUNTY BRUNCH Hotel Borobudur Jakarta caters to parents who want to spend their weekend with their kids, with its Bogor CafĂŠ serving Bounty Brunch every Sunday from 11.30 a.m. to 3 p.m.; a bounty of food plus games for the children. Hotel Borobudur Jakarta has deployed its professional staff to guide the children through activities such as arts and crafts, temporary tattoos, and nail coloring to mention a few. All activities can be enjoyed for Rp. 188.000++ per adult and Rp. 100.000++ per child. Bogor Cafe, Hotel Borobudur Jakarta, Jalan Lapangan Banteng Selatan, Jakarta, (021) 380-5555
WHOLLY WORTHY Members of the Executive Committee of Jakarta International Hotels Association (JIHA) recently presented the money collected during the JIHA Christmas Charity project to three worthy charities. A total of Rp. 120 million was saved by member hotels by not sending the cards, and this money was presented to the Indonesian Care for Cancer Kids Foundation that provides children with cancer the best access to treatment and care, to the Yayasan Citra Baru that helps children and young people with craniofacial surgery, and to the Emmanuel Foundation that provides free food and education for malnourished children and scavenger communities. Visit www.jakartahotelsassociation.com for further details on the JIHA and its activities. www.jakartahotelsassociation.com
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ANYTIME, ANYWHERE Starting this month, Alila Jakarta provides free WiFi in all of its rooms, enabling guests to easily access the Internet in all public areas: lobby, meeting rooms and restaurants. Guests can enjoy this browsing service without any time and cost limitations. Anytime and anywhere at Alila Jakarta, guests can access free WiFi and no password is needed. “It’s plug and play” quotes Evaldo Desfarillo, Public Relations Manager. Alila Jakarta has 246 rooms (Deluxe Rooms, Executive Rooms, Executive Suites, Club Suites, Apartments and Alila Suites) offering comfortable accommodation packages for business and leisure. www.alilahotels.com
AKMANI, ANYWHERE Following the recent opening of its new modern and minimalist ìTerrazza Biancoî hangout, Akmani Hotel presents its March promotions for weekends. Rp. 550,000 nett for a Deluxe Room and Rp. 650,000 nett for a Grand Deluxe. The special rates apply on Saturdays and Sundays. Milano Mocktails are introduced as mocktail of the month, made up of fresh orange, strawberry and lychee with passion fruit syrup at only Rp. 35,000 nett at the Bel Piatto Restaurant. The Akmani Hotel Jl. Wahid Hasyim 91 Jakarta 13050; (021) 3190-5335 www.akmanihotel.com BALI&BEYOND
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BEYONDUPDATES
FROM CURRIES TO KEBABS JW Marriott Hotel Jakarta welcomes diners to come and enjoy the “Spice Trail”, a spice journey of Marco Polo who travelled throughout Asia and the world in 1200. The Sailendra Spice Trail presents various styles of curries and kebabs from March 5-21 at the Sailendra Restaurant. Inspired by Marco Polo’s journey, the Sailendra Restaurant brings all the spices from around the world with their all their richness to the buffet array. Assisted by the “Spice Master” Chef Nawiyo (Sailendra’s very own Indian chef that possesses a wealth of experience in handling spices) who is well known for his specialty in Indian cuisine, the extraordinary curries and kebabs can be enjoyed for lunch and dinner. For reservations, call (021) 5798-8889. JW Marriott Jakarta, Jl. Lingkar Mega Kuningan Kav. E.1.2 No. 1& 2, Mega Kuningan, Jakarta www.marriott.com/jktjw
LANDING SOON The Embassy of the Kingdom of the Netherlands and Cemeti Art House holds ‘Landing Soon #6 - #11’ through March 18 at Erasmus Huis, Jakarta. The three year running artist-in-residence program by Cemeti Art House in collaboration with Heden, The Hague has come to an end. This exhibition shows an overview of the results of the last half of the project with thirteen artists from the Netherlands and Indonesia (Landing Soon #6 through #11). Participating artists included Arfan Sabran, Ralph Kaimena, Ellen Rodenberg, Wimo Ambala Bayang, Maarten Schepers, Urs Pfanenm¸ller, Sigit Bapak, Elizabeth de Vaal, Beatrix H Kaswara, Cilia Erens, Octora, Rosalie Monod de Froideville, and Wiyoga Muhardanto. Cemeti Art House, Jl. D.I. Panjaitan 41, Yogyakarta, (0274) 371-015; www.cemetiarthouse.com
PRIME PLAZA Prime Plaza Hotels & Resorts (PPHR) held a social event for its Prime Plaza New Look 2010 in January at the Q Smoke House Factory in South Jakarta. Entering the year 2010, Prime Plaza Hotels & Resorts added supporting elements to its corporate identity. Each property comprised of hotels, suites and resorts has its own identifying colors of green, blue, orange and purple; as well as different taglines to identify each property. Prime Plaza Hotels & Resorts, Plaza 5 Pondok Indah Blok C no. 16, Jakarta (0361) 7279-9797
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Hard Rock Hotel Bali
HOTELHIGHLIGHTS Asia’s first Hard Rock Hotel, covering a prime three hectares site at the heart of Bali’s entertainment and shopping district. This is the ultimate theme vacation resort with Hard Rock’s signature of limitless energy, unparalleled creativity and quality service - the perfect place to Rest, Relax & Rock! Hard Rock Hotel features 418 tribute rooms and luxury suites, alongside six cutting edge food and beverage outlets. A paradise for couples, families and singles. Situated at Bali’s famous shopping and entertainment district, Kuta, just 10 minutes drive from Bali airport, you’ll find that the Hard Rock Hotel offers more than just comfortable accommodation, it also blends tropical majesty with today’s modern luxury.
Jl. Pantai, Banjar Pandai Mas, Kuta Tel: (0361) 761-869 E-mail: rock@hardrockhotels.net Website: www.hardrockhotels.net
Pool Villa Club Sanur Beach Bali The Pool Villa Club at Sanur Beach Bali offers luxurious one-bedroom ocean view villas with direct beach access. Each villa with private terrace and its own 11m private pool also comes with a majestic bed, living and dining areas and expansive gardens with gazebo. The villas have fully equipped kitchens with breakfast bar, a spacious bathroom with Jacuzzi and walk-in wardrobes. Guests may take the option of dining at the gazebo while enjoying the beach and the ocean. Personal butlers provide personalized services. A perfect place for couples, families or to entertain friends. Sanur Beach Bali also features 426 rooms and suites, 2 large pools, a choice of restaurants and bars. Jl. Danau Tamblingan, Sanur 80228 Bali, Indonesia Ph: +62 361 288011 Fax: +62 361 287566 reservation@sanurbeach.aerowisata.com www.sanurbeach.aerowisata.com
The Patra Bali
Resort & Villas The Patra Bali Resort & Villas is an 11 hectare five star resort in Tuban, offering one of the largest guestrooms in Kuta. All decorated in traditional Balinese style with exquisite wooden furnishings overlooking exotic tropical landscapes. The hotel has a warm and peaceful atmosphere and is ideal for total relaxation! The Resort has 206 rooms and suites, all beautifully appointed, with marble bathrooms and five-star amenities. There is a huge swimming pool right by the sea. The 22 Villas are a semi-boutique concept, giving extra privacy and luxury for families or couples. Many have private plunge pools, and they’ve all 24-hour butler service. Villa guests have their own huge seaside swimming pool and exclusive use of the Floating Heritage Lounge. The hotel offers more facilities like 4 restaurants, convention centers, a Kids club, Spa & Health club, a Beach Bar and free shuttle service to Kuta.
Jl. Ir. H. Juanda, South Kuta Beach, Kuta Tel : ( 0361 ) 751-161 Fax: (0361) 752-030 reservation.bali@patra-jasa.com www.patrabali.com
The location is ideal, a huge landscaped property on South Kuta Beach, directly on the Indian Ocean and next to the international airport. A 5-minute drive north brings you to the heart of Kuta’s shopping district.
The Dreamland Luxury Villas & Spa The Dreamland Luxury Villas & Spa is a new destination for those who want to experience the atmosphere of first class service with state of the art facilities. 42 Private Pool Villas are available with different categories; 1 bedroom suite villa, 2 and 3 bedroom family villas to meet every guest’s dream.
Jl. Raya Uluwatu, Br. Bakung Sari, Ungasan, South Kuta, Bali Tel. (0361) 708 199; Fax. (3361) 708 168 E-mail: reservation@dreamland-villa.com sales@dreamland-villa.com www.dreamland-villa.com
Main pool, Terrace Restaurant, Sunset Bar, Dreamland Beach Shuttle, Kuta Shuttle, Dream Spa Center, Free Internet at Business Centre, Gift Shop, Pool Bar, and spacious parking area. Each Villa Features: Fully air-conditioned, in-room personal safe, 29” flat color television with international TV Channel, IDD Telephone, Mini bar, Jacuzzi, DVD player, original imported latex mattress, shower jet massage, imported bathtub with hot and cold running water, private plunge pool and Balinese gazebo. In the Ungasan village, high on the southernmost peninsula of the island of Bali. Ten minutes to Dreamland beach, from your villa by our free shuttle service.
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COMMUNITYCALENDAR
EMBRACING NATURE’S POEM
INTERNATIONAL YOGA FESTIVAL The Bali-India Foundation will hold another round of the International Yoga Festival that will be joined by some 1,500 Yogis from all over the world. The second international yoga event will be held from March 3-10, and the chairman of the Bali-India Foundation Dr. Somvir stated that half of the 1,500 participants would come from India, European countries, the USA, and Asian regions. The other half of the participants will consist of yoga lovers and yoga development center managers from various places in Indonesia. The annual yoga event will be themed “Yoga and Global Warming Issues”. Dr. Somvir mentioned that participants from foreign countries like India, Germany and Singapore had confirmed their participation and each country would send some 50 participants. All of the International Yoga Festival will take place in North Bali at the Markandeya Yoga City Banjar Gunung Sari, Tegal Linggah village, Sukasada sub-district, Buleleng district, about 80 km north of Denpasar. The location is a village that is surrounded by hills and becomes a historic village for Hindu and Islamic development. The second Bali-India International Yoga Festival is expected exceed the success of first event that involved some 1,000 participants in March of 2009 in Denpasar.
Ganesha Gallery presents an exhibition featuring the works of Nyoman Sujana Kenyem through April 5. Born in Ubud, Kenyem belongs to a small circle of contemporary artists whose work, while modern in spirit and execution, still retains the lyricism of traditional art. Notably he is one of the most prominent members of a new generation of artists who chose to study in the late 1990s in the newly opened Balinese branch of the Indonesian art academy (STSI) rather than in Yogyakarta or Bandung. Since his appearance on the scene in the 1990s, Kenyem has won praise for the poetic beauty of his canvasses. The subject of each of his images, mirrored in titles like ‘Touch’, ‘Smile’ and ‘Nostalgia’ are inevitably highly personal visualizations of emotions. Ganesha Gallery, Four Seasons Resort Bali at Jimbaran Bay, (0361) 701-010 www.fourseasons.com/jimbaranbay
Bali India Foundation, Jl. Dr. Muwardi No. 3, Denpasar (0361) 224-299; www.yogabaliindia.com
SOLO AND GROUP Tony Raka Gallery iwill be holding two exhibitions this month, a solo and a group exhibition. “Nowhere Else,” a solo exhibition by Samarpan, is being held from March 5 to April 5. Samarpan has created abstract compositions that radiate in intense color and present a vivid world, a cosmos of color. His paintings hold all the mystery of the changing light in a stained glass window. “Return to the Abstraction” is an exhibition of at least 25 painters held from March 18 to April 10. The Balinese artists’ awareness of space and composition exist through the tradition or pre-modern works to the present. The presentation of their works represents symbolic values, as well as metaphor. Through this exhibition, the concepts and ideas of Balinese abstract painting will be traced. Tony Raka Art Gallery, Jl. Raya Mas No. 86 Mas, Ubud (0361) 781-6785; www.tonyrakaartgallery.com 62
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Bali Masari
HOTELHIGHLIGHTS Villas & Spa Bali Masari Villas is a hotel with a difference and features four onebedroom and eight two-bedroom luxury villas each with their own private plunge pool beautifully situated overlooking a ravine in the valley of the Petanu River. A place to be at one with nature, to soothe the senses - mind, body and soul. Self-contained villas are perfect for honeymooners, for discerning travelers and executives. Restaurant providing a range of Asian and European food; bars, a spa, a large swimming pool and a smaller childrens pool. The villas have recently been refurbished to four star standards, each featuring its own dip pool and equipped with television, air conditioning, hot and cold water, telephone, electronic safety deposit box and kitchen. Spacious rooms boast high Balinese roofs, marble floors, a large central living area and a pull out sofa double bed.
Jl. Pantai Purnama, Banjar Gelumpang, Sukawati, Gianyar Tel: (0361) 290-029 Fax: (0361) 290-050 E-mail: reservations@balimasarivillas.com Website: www.balimasarivillas.com
The 1.6 hectare resort is situated near the Sukawati village in the Gianyar Regency. 45 minutes drive from the Ngurah Rai International Airport, 30 minutes from Ubud, 20 minutes from Sanur. Shopping and art markets are nearby in Sukawati.
Mentari Sanur Hotel The Mentari Sanur Hotel is tucked away down a small side street just off Jalan Hangtuah at the northern end off Sanur, Bali’s most enchanted village. Shaded by frangipani trees, this two-storey 28 rooms hotel offers the ideal combination of modern facilities and a charming Balinese atmosphere with family style hospitality and service. A large luxury private swimming pool is the right place for you to pamper your self and relax in a privacy atmosphere under a warm tropical sun. Tunjung Restaurant offers a combination of continental and traditional Balinese dining, cozy lounge is the area where you can sit down, relax, and bar will serves you varieties of drinks. Free exclusive broadband internet access. Located in a tranquil coastal village of Sanur make the Mentari Sanur Hotel is situated in an ideal location with immediate access to the main highway and just minutes from many great tourist activities and attraction, 25 minutes drive to the Ngurah Rai International Airport, 20 minutes drive to Kuta Beach, 5 minutes drive to the Sanur shopping area, 10 minutes drive to Denpasar and 30 minutes to Ubud.
Jl. Hangtuah III No.3, Sanur, Tel: (0361) 283-286, Fax: (0361) 283-017 E-mail: sales@mentarisanur.com Website: www.mentarisanur.com
Maxi Hotel & Spa The Maxi Hotel & Spa is situated in the heart of Bali’s shopping and nightlife district. Centrally located, the property offers an ideal base for visitors wishing to explore Bali while keeping all the island’s best shops, bars, restaurants and beaches within easy walking distance. Hotel facilities and services include restaurant, bar, meeting room, massage and spa, room service, swimming pool with Jacuzzi, children’s pool, laundry and dry cleaning service, airport pickup and transfer, snack bar, tour desk, doctor on call, free car park, baby sitter upon request, broadband internet connection, major credit cards accepted, individually controlled air-conditioning, local and IDD telephone, satellite TV, daily mineral water, private bathroom with bathtub and shower, mini bar, personal electronic safe deposit, tea & coffee maker. The balcony overlooking the swimming pool and landscaped tropical garden offers a private area for relaxing. The hotel is less than 15 minutes from Ngurah Rai International Airport; 20 minutes drive to Denpasar, 30 minutes from Sanur, Nusa Dua and within 45 minutes drive to the artistic centre of Ubud and about 350 meters from Bali’s famous Kuta Beach.
Jl. Legian 83A, Legian Tel: (0361) 754-082Fax: (0361) 750-792 E-mail: info@maxi-hotel.com Website: www.maxi-hotel.com
The Haven Hotel Pioneering three in one concept, hotel, suites and villas located in the heart of hippest Seminyak Area. Famous area for clubs, boutiques and restaurants. Walking distance to beaches. With perfect concept “Naturally Elegant” post Perfect palace for honeymooners, party goers and fashionista. 96 hotel rooms, 60 spacious suites, 7 villas with private pool in each, function and meeting rooms, Three Main swimming pools, Atma Spa, SABEEN Healthy Restaurant, Gym, Library, Tirta Pool bar, butler services, Limousine service, LCD TV’s, Broadband Internet connection. Jl. Raya Seminyak 500 – Bali Tel: (0361) 738-001 The Haven Suites & Villas Gg. Raja, Jalan Double Six – Seminyak - Bali Tel: (0361) 738-001, Fax: (0361) 738-002 Sales: (0361) 738-008 E-mail: info@thehavenbali.com Website: www.thehavenbali.com
Honeymoon package, Meeting package, Bed and breakfast package and Photo-shoot wedding Package. 15 Minutes from Ngurah Rai International Airport, walking distance to beaches, Shopping area, and Boutiques.
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COMMUNITYCALENDAR
BANDE DESSINÉE An exposition will be held to commemorate 100 years since France’s first Bande Dessinée or comics, entitled Exposition: 100 years of French Comics. The expo will exhibit 35 original art paper collections issued by the International Association for Comics and Drawings. These collections will take you back to times when history spoke about the phases of art, recognized world-wide for its uniqueness in France, Europe, and all parts of the world. Just to mention, some of the collections are from Caran D’ache – a surprisingly modern practitioner for mute story telling until art collections from Nicolas de Crécy – with its impressive technique mastering, a creation well known for more than a century in countries like France and Belgium. The exhibition will take place in Alliance Française Denpasar, through March 31. Alliance Française de Denpasar, Jl. Raya Puputan I, No. 13A, Denpasar (0361) 234-143; www.afdenpasar.org
BALI FROM BEYOND
SPONTANEOUS GLAZING This workshop at Gaya will explore the kiss of flame and the natural glaze effects of atmospheric wood firing in Gaya CAC’s new anagama (Japanese-style wood kiln), with wood fire specialist Dave Hanley. Participants will experiment with the variables of clay bodies and flashing slips, surface texture and vessel shape as design factors influencing the subtle and dramatic effects of a natural ash surface. Instructors Dave Hanley and Hillary Kane provide courses at the workshop through April 3. Gaya Ceramic Arts Center, Jl. Raya Sayan, Ubud,(0361) 745-1413 www.gayafusion.com/ceramic
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Hanna Artspace hosts the painting exhibition “Bali from Beyond” through April 8. This event will visualize the expression of the expatriate artists during their stay in Bali. The artists presented are Arie Smitt (Holland), Han Snel (Holland), Rudolf Bonnet (Holland), Marc Jurt (Switzerland), Pieter Deiman (Holland), Shant F. Clergue (France), Emilie Pauline Sermet (France), Razcel Jan LS (Philippines), Anja Zwanenburg , Margareta (Norway), Patrick Okorokoff (France), and more. Hanna Artspace Jln. Raya Pengosekan, Ubud (0361) 978-216 www.hannaartspace.blogspot.com
FOOD, HOTEL, TOURISM The 7th International Exhibition for Equipment, Food, Beverages and Services to support Indonesia’s tourism and hospitality industries is being held this month at the Bali International Convention Center from March 11-13. Also, Food, Hotel & Tourism Bali will once again be held alongside the famous Salon Culinaire, organized by the Bali Culinary Professionals. Bali’s best young chefs will once again test their culinary expertise in an exciting mix of competitions. www.fhtbali.com
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SEE&SEEN
TWISTED N’ SHOUTED Discovery Kartika Plaza Hotel & Villas once again achieved great success in holding a travel agents appreciation event at The Kharisma Ballroom recently with the theme ‘Let’s Twist and Shout’. The dinner and extravagant event was attended by over 300 representatives from travel agents, airlines and the media. During the evening, there were awards presented to the top 10 agents based on production during the year 2009. All of the hotel’s management and staff who were involved in this memorable occasion were dressed in 1960s costumes. Discovery Kartika Plaza Jl. Kartika Plaza, South Kuta (0361) 751-067
GODSPEED Participants of the Australia Indonesia Youth Exchange Program (AIYEP) 2009-10 performed the Tari Saman dance at the farewell ceremony held by the Australian Ambassador for Indonesia, Bill Farmer, in February in Jakarta. AIYEP is an annual exchange program that has played an important role in increasing mutual understanding between the two nations. Australian Embassy, Jakarta, (021) 2550-5490
GATHERED Ramada Camakila held a gathering for media and agents in February. In this gathering, the participants came gradually. Nine members representing the media came on February 16 while the other batch came the following day. Ramada Camakila had opened and operated since mid 2009. Opening ceremonies and such are yet to be scheduled. Ramada served a cocktail party followed by a six course dinner on the evenings. Ramada Resort Camakila Bali, Jalan Pura Bagus Teruna, Seminyak, (0361) 752- 877 www.ramadaresortcamakila.com
UP A BAR FIGURES MEET The island’s tourism figures gathered at the Bali Governor’s office in a day seminar, which presented topics on Bali’s tourism in the last 5 years and tried to find an ideal formulation for 2010. Speakers at the seminar were Wayan Geriya (Balinese anthropologist), I.B. Subiksu (head of the Bali Tourism Office), Ngurah Wijaya (head of the Bali Tourism Board) and the Director of the Bali Tourism Police. 66
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The Laguna, a Luxury Collection Resort & Spa in Nusa Dua held a Malaspas inauguration blessing ceremony for its Kul Kul Bar following its recent renovation on February 17, coinciding with the temple anniversary of the hotel’s main temple. The Laguna, a Luxury Collection Resort & Spa, Nusa Dua, Bali (0361) 771-327 www.luxurycollection.com/bali
SEE&SEEN
RED COCKTAIL In conjunction with the Chinese New Year celebrations, Kota Bukit Indah Plaza Hotel hosted its long stay guests and recreational club members to a management cocktail party. Around 50 invitees were treated to an attractive and interactive Lion Dance performance. Red ‘Ang Pao’ packets were passed around in Chinese New Year tradition. Kota Bukit Indah Plaza Hotel, Blok L, Kota Bukit Indah, Purwakarta, (0264) 351-888 www.primeplazahotels.com
IN APPRECIATION Kayumanis Group’s recent appreciation party acknowledged the outstanding support of travel agents and media representatives over the past year. The event took place at Kayumanis Jimbaran. A series of awards to the best supporters within each travel market category for 2009 was the highlight of the event. www.kayumanis.com
SMILING KIDS Amidst the Valentine’s Day celebrations, around 40 orphan children from the Anugerah orphanage were treated to a Parent-For-A-Day event held by JP Production, The Blado Showbiz, KKMK and the Sahaja community. The orphans and their parent-for-aday went on a fun and happy tour to the Bali Zoo Park, the Bali Bird Park, several shopping malls, the beach and to bookstores. For further information, contact Grace Jeanie, 081-735-1312.
CHINA GIRL VALENTINE’S Hard Rock Hotel Bali, the leading entertainment hotel in Bali, celebrated Valentine’s Day and Chinese New Year in ‘rockin’ style, with a ‘China Girl Party’ at Centerstage on February 14. Centerstage was decorated in red flowers and lampions. D’Munk Band started warming the crowd of more than 300 people at 8.30 pm, followed by Chun Lee Trolley Dolly, David Bowie China Girl Dance Show, Pink Madame Butterfly Go Go and Stiltwalker show and Chun Lee Dance Show. Hard Rock Hotel Bali, Jalan Pantai, Banjar Pande Mas, Kuta (0361) 761-869; www.hardrockhotels.net
HAPPY TUNES
DJ MARATHON
Le Méridien Nirwana Golf & Spa Resort had pianist David Harrington entertaining adults and kids, performing some of his best music through a charity piano concert for Starwood’s Anak Bintang children’s campaign at the resort’s Sunset Lounge in mid February. Le Meridien Nirwana Golf & Spa Resort Bali, Jalan Raya Tanah Lot, (0361) 815-900; www.lemeridien.com/bali
A DJ Marathon and contemporary art event on February 26 raised money for the “I’m An Angel” charity. Thousands of dollars are raised each year for the charity, which undertakes a wide range of worthy activities in Bali from healthcare to hygiene, infrastructure-building to education, and environmental awareness. www.kudeta.net
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SKAL INTERNATIONAL BALI An International Association of Travel and Tourism Professionals Doing Business Among Friends
CELEBRATORY AGM AND LUNCH IN SANUR February 5 a celebratory annual General meeting took place in the new Negara conference facilities of the Sanur Paradise Plaza Hotel. Members took stock of a very successful 2009 and elected officers for a promising new year of Skal activity in 2010. Following the AGM 73 members and guests adjourned to the newly renovated Sanur Harum Restaurant for a hearty lunch of Crustacean Bisque scented with cognac and garlic croutons, Herbal Crusted Salmon Fillet, Potato mash, snow peas, sautéed kailan, dried plum tomato, in a forest mushroom jus perfumed with mustard seeds. Dessert was a scrumptious Berries and White Chocolate Mousse Fruit ragout, orange sherbet on layered cinnamon cake. COMING EVENTS AT THE BEST VENUES IN BALI The 150 members of Skal Bali meet monthly for a great meal, fellowship, fun, networking and an opportunity to bond and get to know industry colleagues. On the calendar 2010 are: March 5 – Holiday Inn Resort Baruna Bali – Tuban April 9 – The St.Regis Bali Resort – Nusa Dua May 7 – Nikko Bali Resort and Spa – Nusa Dua June 4 – Ma Joly – Tuban July 2 – Tao - Tanjung Benoa
ABOUT SKAL AND SKAL BALI Skal International, founded in Paris in 1934, is the World’s largest travel and tourism organization with over 20,000 members in 500 clubs in 90 countries. Members are tourism industry management and professionals providing accommodation, transportation, tours, travel, marine and cruise tourism, attractions, restaurants, golf, spas and travel media. Skal Bali is the largest club in Southeast Asia and World Leader in Membership Growth Membership and Information: Gede Juwena Telephone: 7840212; email: gede@skalbali.com 68
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CLASSIFIEDCOLUMNS
ACCOMMODATION
during these tours are sometimes beyond description. BaliQuad (using ATV’s
VILLA DIANA BALI – luxurious and exclusive place, good value for money. 3
/ quad bikes) and BaliBuggy (using off-road cars) are located in different
villas with 3 bed rooms each, private swimming pool and garage, kitchenete,
locations which offer different tracks. A special “2-in-1 adventure” can be
shower and bath tub, hot/cold running water. Jl. Kresna, Ulun Tanjung, Legian,
arranged, combining both off-road tours in one great adventurous day.
Kuta. Tel: 754-038, 744-1282, 745-1600; Fax: 751-510
BaliQuad, Jl. Wirasatya VI No.9X, Suwung Kangin, Denpasar, Tel: 720-766;
E-mail: info@dianagrouphotel.com; www.dianagrouphotel.com
Fax: 727-956 www.baliquad.com; www.balibuggy.com
ACTION & ATTRACTION
INTERNATIONAL NEWSPAPERS BALI ORCHID GARDEN – Enjoy the
NEWSPAPER DIRECT – Bali widest range of daily newspapers from
beauty of walking among hundreds of
anywhere of the world. Chose from 1012 titles of 79 countries, daily, weekly or
beautiful and rare orchids, Heliconia,
as you like it. This service delivers you the complete edition of your preferred
Ginger and other interesting plants. A
hometown newspaper on the same day of publication to your hotel or
peaceful, natural and safe haven close
residence on Bali. Contact your hotel or villa reception or call or email them for
to the city. Enjoy a drink and find unique
the selection and pricelist 0361 769414 /
souvenirs. Tel: 466-010, Fax: 466-011;
info@newspaperdirect-bali.com
www.baliorchidgardens.com; E-mail: info@baliorchidgarden.biz.
TOURS & TRAVEL ADVENTURE INDONESIA – JUNGLE SURVIVAL TRAINING & FUN JUNGLE
BALI QUAD DISCOVERY TOURS - The Bali Quad and Bali Buggy tours
WAR, Student Field Trip, Orangutan & Dayak, Explore Irian Jaya Tribes, Komodo
both bring you to a part of Bali where you still can find old traditions alive.
& Flores Adventure, Toraja Tour. BALI: Ruko Wana Segara 12A, Tel: (0361) 750
Drive yourself with a specially designed off-road vehicle that copes with all
971, 750 964. JAKARTA: Wisma 31 kemang, 3rd floor tel: (021) 7182250/56,
kinds of terrain, through an authentic part of the island, passing rice fields,
Email: info@adventureindonesia.com
crossing jungles and driving through a traditional Balinese village. The views
www.adventureindonesia.com
BALI&BEYOND
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INFOINDEX AIRLINES
Tel: (0361) 285-485, Fax: 286-406 E-mail: consul @dps.centrin.net.id
■ AIRPORT OPERATOR: Tel: (0361) 751-011 ■ CATHAY PACIFIC AIRWAYS: Wisthi Sabha Building, 2nd Floor Ngurah Rai International Aiprort Call Centre: 0804-1-888888 ■ CONTINENTAL MICRONESIA: Tel: (0361) 768-358, Fax: 768-369
■ GERMANY: Jl. Pantai Karang 17, Sanur Tel: (0361) 288-535; Fax: 288-826 Email: dtkonsbali@denpasar.wasantara.net.id ■ HUNGARY: Marintur, Jl. By Pass Ngurah Rai 219, Sanur. Tel: (0361) 287-701 Fax: 287-456 Email: cristofoli@denpasar.wasantara.net.id ■ ITALY: Lotus Enterprises Building Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai, Jimbaran Tel: (0361) 701-005 E-mail: italconsbali @italconsbali.org
■ ROYAL BRUNEI: Tel: (0361) 757-292 ■ SINGAPORE AIRLINES: Jl. I Gusti Ngurah Rai, Airport Tel: (0361) 768-388, Fax: 768-383 ■ GARUDA: Jl. Jalan Sugianyar 5 Denpasar Tel. (0361) 227-824, Fax: 226-298 24-hour access: 08071-807-807
■ JAPAN: Jl. Raya Puputan 170, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 227-628; Fax: 265-066 ■ MEXICO: PT Puri Astina Putra Building Jl. Prof. Moh. Yamin 1A, Renon Tel: (0361) 223-266 E-mail: yudhara@astinatravel.com
■ MERPATI: Jl. Melati No. 51, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 235-358 Airport Tel: (0361) 751-011, ext. 5240/5242 Hotline: Tel: (0361) 722-740, 722-741
■ NETHERLANDS: KCB Travel, Jl. Raya Kuta 127, KutaTel: (0361) 751-517, Fax: 752-777 E-mail: purwa@denpasar.wasantara.net.id
■ MANDALA AIRLINES: Komp. Plaza Kertawijaya, Jl. Diponogoro No. 98, Denpasar Reservation Call center 08041234567
■ NORWAY & DENMARK: Mimpi Resorts, Jimbaran, Tel: (0361) 701070 E-mail: mimpi@mimpi.com
■ NGURAH RAI AIRPORT: Tel/Fax: (0361) 759-761
■ SLOVAKIA: Jl.Gunung Agung 93, Denpasar 80118 Tel: (0361) 426171; Fax: 426-477 E-mail: konsulslowakbali@yahoo.com
■ THAI INTERNATIONAL: Grand Bali Beach Sanur, Tel: (0361) 288-141 ■ QATAR AIRWAYS: Discovery Kartika Plaza Hotel, South Kuta Beach Tel: (0361) 752-222; Fax: 753-788. Wisti Sabha Building, 2nd Floor, Ngurah Rai International Aiprort, Tel: (0361) 760-274 Fax: 760-275 ■ DEPARTURE Arrive at the airport two hours prior to departure. A Rp. 150,000 international departure tax is required. Domestic departure fee is Rp 30,000. Residents pay an additional Rp. 2.5 million Fiscal tax for international departures, whereas holders of official tax registration (NPWP) numbers are Fiscal tax-exempt. Ngurah Rai Intíl Airport, Tel: (0361) 751-011
CONSULATES ■ AUSTRALIA, CANADA, NEW ZEALAND: Jl. Tantular No. 32, Renon - Denpasar 80234 Tel: (0361) 241-118, Fax: 221-195 E-mail: bali.congen@dfat.gov.au www.dfat.gov.au ■ BRITAIN: Jl. Mertasari 2, Sanur, Denpasar 80227. Tel: (0361) 270-601 Fax: 270-570 E-mail: tamarin@dps.centrin.net.id ■ CZECH REPUBLIC: Jl. Pengembak 17 Sanur. Tel: (0361) 286-465, Fax: 286-408 E-mail: bali@honorary.mzv.cz ■ FRANCE: Jl. Mertasari Gg. II No. 8, Sanur
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■ SPAIN: Jl.Raya Sanggingan, Br. Lungsiakan Kedewatan, Ubud. Tel: (0361) 975-736 Fax: 975-726; E-mail: rabik@indo.net.id ■ SWEDEN & FINLAND: Jl. Segara Ayu (Segara Village Hotel) Tel: (0361) 288-407, Fax: 287-242 E-mail: segara1@denpasar.wasantara.net.id
fever, but this is not a problem in tourist areas. Bali is non-malarial and prophylaxis is not required. Mosquito bites, cuts or abrasions easily become infected in the tropics. Treat them immediately. Drink only bottled or boiled water. Peel fruit before eating; avoid raw vegetables except at reputable restaurants. Ice in restaurants is safe. Protect yourself from the intense equatorial sun. Use high SPF sunblock and a hat. AIDS and sexually transmitted diseases are increasing in Indonesia. Local sex workers have multiple partners from around the world. They are not checked for sexually transmitted diseases. Act responsibly and use condoms, available over the counter at pharmacies.
HOSPITAL ■ MEDICAL EVACUATIONS: Contact your consulate. ■ BIMC HOSPITAL: Provides medical attention for emergencies and evacuations. Jl. Ngurah Rai 100X, at the KutaSanur-Nusa Dua roundabout. Tel: (0361) 761-263. ■ INTERNATIONAL SOS CLINIC: 24-hour emergency medical clinic services, medical evacuation, multilingual staff. Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai 505X, Kuta 80361. Tel: (0361) 710-505, Fax: 710-515. ■ RUMAH SAKIT UMUM PUSAT SANGLAH (General Hospital): Jl. Diponegoro, Sanglah, Denpasar. Tel: (0361) 227-911/15. ■ KASIH IBU HOSPITAL: (Private Hospital) 24-hour emergency traumatology unit, maternity center, complete facilities and a full list of specialists, Jl. Teuku Umar 120, Denpasar. Tel: (0361) 223-036; Fax: 238-690 Email: marketing@kasihibu.co.id www.kasihibu.co.id
MUSEUMS
■ SWITZERLAND & AUSTRIA: Istana Kuta Galeria Blok Valet 2 No 12, Kuta Tel: (0361) 751-735, Fax: 754-457 E-mail: swisscon@telkom.net
■ ABIAN KAPAS: Tel: (0361) 227-176 East Denpasar.
■ UNITED STATES: Jl. Hayam Wuruk 188, Denpasar. Tel: (0361) 233-605 E-mail: amcobali@indosat.net.id
■ AGUNG RAI MUSEUM OF ART (ARMA): Ubud, Tel: (0361) 976-659, Fax: 974-229. Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud, open daily 8 am-6pm.
HEALTH & MEDICAL Call an ambulance by dialing 118, but it is a lot more practical and quicker to hire a taxi. Most hotels have on-call doctors on standby. For “Bali Belly”, Lomotil and Imodium eliminate symptoms, but not gastro-related infections. A fever along with symptoms requires doctor-prescribed antibiotics. Drink as much liquid as possible. Isotonic drinks under various brand names are widely available and are known to replenish body hydration and replace fluids. For discomfort, diarrhea and cramping, drink strong, hot tea; avoid fruits and spicy foods. Some day-biting mosquitoes carry dengue
■ ANTONIO BLANCO: Tel: (0361) 975-502, 975-551, Ubud, open daily 8 am-5 pm. ■ ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM: Tel: (0361) 942-352, Pejeng. Open 8 am - 3 pm weekdays. ■ GEDONG KIRTYA HISTORICAL LIBRARY: Tel: (0362) 25141, Jl. Veteran, Singaraja. Open 7am - 3pm Monday - Thursday, until Fridaynoon, closed on weekends. ■ GALLERY SENIWATI: Jl. Ubud Raya, Gianyar. Tel: (0361) 975-485 ■ MUSEUM BALI: Tel: (0361) 235-059, 222-680, Jl. Let. Kol Wisnu, Denpasar.
■ MUSEUM LE MAYEUR: Tel: (0361) 286-164, Jl. Hang Tuah, Sanur. Open 8 am - 2 pm, Tuesday - Sunday. ■ MUSEUM MANUSA YADNYA: Mengwi, open daily, but often unattended. ■ MUSEUM NEKA: Tel: (0361) 975-074, 975-034, Jl. Raya Campuan, Ubud open daily 9 am - 5 pm. ■ MUSEUM PURI LUKISAN: Tel: (0361) 975-136, 971-159, Jl. Raya Ubud Ubud, www.mpl-ubud.com ■ MUSEUM RUDANA: Tel: (0361) 975-779, 976-479, Peliatan, Ubud. ■ MUSEUM SUBAK: Tel: (0361) 810-315, Jl. Raya Kediri, Desa Sanggulan, Tabanan.
TELECOMMUNICATIONS ■ CELLULAR SERVICES Indonesia applies GSM (Global Services for Mobiles). You can purchase prepaid calling cards at lower cost than calling on your home card. Major Service Providers are Telkomsel, Satelindo, Pro XL and Indosat. Look for kiosks and outlet signs or banners with product variants and brand markings. ■ TELKOMSEL The major GSM provider, Telkomsel, is reputed to have the widest national coverage area, minimizing connection and signal relay inconvenience. Graha Telkomsel, Jl. Diponegoro 134 Denpasar. Tel: (0361) 228-811.
TOURIST INFORMATION ■ INTEGRATED TOURISM INFORMATION CENTER (ITIC) A one-stop tourist information complex of ten provinces in Indonesia comprising Bali, Lampung, Jakarta, Banten, West Java, Central Java, East Java, Jogjakarta. Jl. Raya Kuta 2, Kuta, 80361 Tel: (0361) 766-188 ■ NGURAH RAI INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT: Tel: (0361) 751-011 ■ BADUNG GOVERNMENT TOURISM OFFICE: Jl. Kuta Raya 2, Kuta Tel: (0361) 756-175/76 ■ BALI GOVERNMENT TOURISM OFFICE: Jl. Supratman, Niti Mandala, Renon, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 222-387 ■ SINGARAJA TOURIST INFORMATION OFFICE: Jl. Veteran 23, Singaraja Tel: (0362) 251-41 ■ UBUD TOURIST INFORMATION SERVICE: Jl. Raya Ubud, Gianyar Tel: (0361) 96-285, 973-285; 8 am - 9 pm.
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