B&B Mag May 2009 Edition

THE SUN... THE SAND... THE SURF... THE CULTURE OF PARADISE AND OVER 18,000 SURROUNDING ISLANDS

BALI & BEYOND MAY 2009

VOLUME 11 NO. 108

MASTERS OF

METAL LIVING A LEGACY A DEDICATED RESIDENTIAL AREA IN JAKARTA PRESERVES BETAWI CULTURAL HERITAGE AND ATTRACTS VISITORS FROM AFAR

BLAZING

BARGES LARGE BARGE EFFIGIES GO UP IN FLAMES AT A MAJOR ANNUAL CHINESE RITUAL IN THE RIAU PROVINCE

+

COMPLIMENTARY

www.baliandbeyond.co.id

NEW & NEWS • INFO INDEX • MAP OF BALI • CLASSIFIED COLUMNS BALI&BEYOND

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TEAMTALK

teamtalk 05.09 MAY IT BE....

‘Om Swastyastu...’

Welcome to Bali and the Indonesian archipelago, and welcome to our May 2009 edition of Bali & Beyond.

We continue to present to you articles and information that we hope will be useful for during your time on the island - and beyond.

A lot has happened in the preceding month, and as we flashback to this month three years ago, it seems just like yesterday when surf legend Kim Bradley gave us a call and eventually paid us a visit to talk about his passion, views and perspectives,

introduction of its new management, plus added features and high hopes for the future; and new updates from various establishments around the island.

And we continue with this month’s Craft & Culture, where our editorial team member introduces you to the Balinese clan of smiths also known as the Pande, who are masters in the craft of everything metal, from musical instruments, ceremonial decorations, and household utensils to intricate jewelry and traditional weaponry.

In Invite & Indulge we present to you the range of spa treatments to choose from, and the new additions that suit those in need of deep massage at the Kriya Spa. East of the island is one of the best places to discover scenic sunrises and immaculate coastlines, and we present to you the magical beauty of the eastern coast at daybreak through this month’s Action & Attraction. Such was a reminiscent morning when our editor had his first open water dive in Amed, pictured here, circa 2006.

which we gratefully crafted into a special feature profile on him.

News came last month that Kim had passed away, sitting in his chair, looking out over the waves crashing on the reefs off Airports and Kuta, and peacefully - on the Nyepi Day of Silence. He was 54. The whole team of Bali & Beyond would like to express their deepest condolences. As this goes to press, he was to be cremated as a Balinese Hindu. Our Profile & Portrait this month coincides with the profile we did this month, three years ago, which we dedicate in his memory.

In this month’s edition we begin with a span of news ranging from the latest re-branding of a famous resort that saw its grand opening and the 6

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contributors

In Beyond Bali, our far-flung contributor takes you to the Riau province where a grand ritual is to take place the following month, coinciding with a specific date in the Chinese lunar calendar. The town is Bagan Siapiapi, where the Bakar Tongkang ritual attracts spectators from afar.

This month’s Capital Corner takes you to the hamlets on the outskirts of Jakarta that preserves Betawi culture, in the residential area of Setu Babakan.

Fadil Aziz is a travel photographer whose main passion is capturing the archipelago’s beauty. His portfolio is at www.alcibbumphotography.com

Vincent Herry is an avid photographer. His portfolio at vincentherry.com spans many styles and angles, from fashion to culture, indoors and out.

Donny Cahyadi is a member of the Bangli royal family and enjoys recording aspects of his Balinese culture and heritage, as well as the simple outdoors.

Piping/BSP shoots the action of surfing to tell the inside story of the sport. His work covers everything about surfing, from playground to practitioner.

Arvid Nicolas shoots for international travel and lifestyle magazines; when not traveling he dwells at his professional studio, obscurastudio.net

Enjoy this edition of Bali & Beyond, and if you didn’t grab a copy remember you can always go online to browse our parallel online edition.

Happy reading!

‘Om Shanti Shanti Shanti Om…’ The Team

Jim Huri shares his memoir and images of the Bakar Tongkang ritual in Bagansiapiapi, which will once again take place early next month.

BALI & BEYOND Deputy General Manager Managing Editor Editorial Assistant

GOESTAMAR ARDIBRATA goestamar@baliandbeyond.co.id NYOMAN ARI GUNADI eric@baliandbeyond.co.id NI LUH DIAN PURNIAWATI dian@baliandbeyond.co.id

Editorial Advisor

A.A. GEDE RAI, JOHN M. DANIELS

Graphic Advisor

WENIAR PRAMESTI

Graphic Designer

PUTU PARTAJAYA putu@baliandbeyond.co.id MADE SUWARDANA suwardana@baliandbeyond.co.id

Advertising & MarComm. Manager Advertising Executive

ANDI BEHANS andibehans@baliandbeyond.co.id PUTRI NINA R. nina@baliandbeyond.co.id

F&A Supervisor

A.A. KETUT SUKERTI agung@baliandbeyond.co.id

GA & Personnel Adm

I GEDE ADARA adara@baliandbeyond.co.id

Distribution Photographic Intern

NYOMAN TRI HARIAN SAPUTRA NOVENA ASSEN

Contributors FADIL AZIZ, DONNY CAHYADI, VINCENT HERRY, JIM HURI, ARVID NICOLAS, PIPING/BSP Jakarta Marketing Services/Subscription Tel: (021) 315 2683/84, 391 0969 Publisher PT. BUMI DIAN KUSUMA Commissioner SOETIKNO SOEDARJO Director MAULANA INDRAGUNA SUTOWO Division Head MRA Printed Media INDRIATI WIRJANTO Pre Press PT. DIAN RAKYAT BALI Printing PT. SUBUR JARINGAN CETAK TERPADU, JAKARTA OFFICE Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai 120 C / Lt. 2, Kuta, Bali 80361 Tel: (62-361) 764 274, 752 684 Fax: (62-361) 762 096 E-mail:mag@baliandbeyond.co.id http://www.baliandbeyond.co.id Bali & Beyond Magazine is published monthly by PT. Bumi Dian Kusuma under the direction of MRA Media, Jakarta. Although every care is taken, neither the publishers nor any of their designees assume responsibility for the opinions and information expressed by editorial contributors. All material in this publication is copyrighted and cannot be reproduced without written permission of the publisher or author. All trademark and rights to Bali & Beyond are reserved by PT Bumi Dian Kusuma. Editorial materials may be submitted for consideration to the editorial office. Bali & Beyond is not responsible for the return of unsolicited material. Š 2006 Bali & Beyond ISSN 0216-4590

Endorsed by

BALI GOVERNMENT TOURISM OFFICE Jl. S. Parman, Niti Mandala Renon, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 222 387, 226 313 Fax: (0361) 226 313

A member of

www. skal.org skalbali@dps.centrin.net.id

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contents 05.09 THE SUN... THE SAND... TH E SUR F... T HE CULT URE OF PARADISE AN D OVER 18,000 SURROUN DIN G ISLA N D S

May 2009 Volume 11 No. 108

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BEYONDBALI BAGANSIAPIAPI: BLAZING BARGES

Large barge effigies go up in flames to pay homage to the god of the sea at a major annual Chinese ritual in the Riau province.

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CRAFT&CULTURE MASTERS OF METAL In Bali, metal is crafted by a prominent clan of smiths called the Pande, which are not only a group of professionals but a clan with their own privileges.

26 INVITE&INDULGE CHOICE OF RITUAL Experience a wide range of Ayurvedic based treatments at the Kriya Spa, and the new Bali Pijat Cokor that delivers a deep pressure massage via ‘footwork’.

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contents 05.09 THE SUN... THE SAND... THE SURF... THE CULTURE OF PARADISE AND OVER 18,000 SURROUNDING ISLANDS

May 2009 Volume 11 No. 108

PROFILE&PORTRAIT

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‘THE FLY’...

FLEW AWAY

COVER Furnace with Father (Gede Mandia and Oka Swarna) Photo by: Vincent Herry Location: Banjar Kedampal, Abiansemal, Badung

Profile dedicated to the memory of Kim ‘The Fly’ Bradley, one of the island’s surfing pioneers.

+ 34 PONDERINGPOINT GO… KOMODO! Optimism is high that Komodo National Park in East Nusa Tenggara will make it in the release of the "New7Wonders" private initiative.

12 NEW&NEWS This month’s select news updates from the island’s tourism industry and what’s new around the island.

54 BEYONDUPDATES News updates from the tourism industry and what’s new beyond Bali.

36 ACTION&ATTRACTIONS DAYBREAKS ALONG THE EAST COAST The east coast of Bali has well kept secrets that are fit for discovery by the adventurous. Most lie in the deep and under the waves. Some also admire the tranquil scenic mornings.

58 COMMUNITYCALENDAR Schedules, calendar highlights and various happenings of interest, from art exhibitions to special events.

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CAPITALCORNER SETU BABAKAN: LIVING A LEGACY

A dedicated residential area in Jakarta preserves the Betawi cultural heritage and attracts visitors from afar.

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64 SEE&SEEN Snapshots of events and happenings within the preceding month.

70 BALIMAPS Map of Bali showing specific tourism areas and places of interest, as well as a distance scale between the island’s main destinations.

73 CLASSIFIEDCOLUMNS Listings and product descriptions from various clientele.

74 INFOINDEX Useful directory of companies and island-based businesses.

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NEW&NEWS

PHOTO BY NI KOMANG ERVIANI

BEST FOR SPA Bali recently received another prestigious award, presented by the popular German spa magazine “Senses” at the “Wellness Award 2009” event in Berlin.

The award in the category of “The Best Spa Tourism Destination in The World 2009” was symbolically presented by The Minister of Culture and Tourism Jero Wacik to Bali Governor Made Mangku Pastika at the Wiswasabha building of the Bali governor’s office in Denpasar on March 24. The award was based on reader polls of the magazine, which has 60,000 copies in circulation. Meanwhile, Head of the Indonesia Spa Association, Mooryati Soedibyo, remarked on the advantages of Indonesia’s spas, especially in Bali due to the integration of management with heritage concepts. “It’s the world’s one of a kind,” she added.

DISCOVER. UNLEASH. Improvisation through voice, movement and storytelling is not usually connected with yoga - but for Kathryn Riding it’s all about interconnection and exploration. Combining her extensive performing arts experience with yoga coaching, Kathryn has created a refreshingly unique program that enables her students to discover creative energies and unleash the thrill of spontaneity.

According to Ms. Riding, “the long-established benefits of yoga, coupled with creating space for one’s body and voice to move with awareness can be incredibly transformative. The tranquil setting in Bali provides an even deeper level of enjoyment. In the busy and changing world we live in today, time out to focus internally and on positive expression couldn’t be more important!”

Priced at an early bird rate of AUD$ 1,100 through May 14, and held in Ubud (Bali’s artistic and healing centre) from July 14-20, attendees will be treated to morning yoga classes, improvisation classes and evening restorative yoga. Students will also have time to visit surrounding areas and explore photography, Balinese cooking and art. The retreat venue will be at the Melati Cottages in Ubud. Rates are AUD$1300 (early bird AUD$1100), inclusive of all classes, breakfast, three treatments, and accommodation. To book, contact kathryn@kathryn-riding.com.au, +61 266-805-146

KNOWING HERBS The Westin Resort in Nusa Dua has launched another unique program especially for children.

‘Know Your Herb’ is a brand new initiative that introduces young guests to the precious bounty of Mother Nature. A small herb garden, encompassed by a bamboo fence, has been created in one corner of the spacious Westin Kids Club playground. The garden is flourishing with tomatoes, chili, basil, Java tea, turmeric, and lemon grass. Kids are given a guided tour of this corner garden and have the opportunity to learn about each herb and its wellness benefits. A fresh row of soil is also made available so that the children can partake in seed planting activities. The Westin Resort, Nusa Dua (0361) 771-906; www.westin.com/bali 12

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NEW&NEWS

Ayana Resort & Spa welcomed its first guests following its re-branding last month, with a new management team and a fresh image. Ayana has embarked as an independent hotel under the same ownership. Previously known as The Ritz-Carlton Bali Resort & Spa, the expansive cliff-top property overlooking Jimbaran Bay celebrated its rebirth on April 1. The grand opening was an opportunity for guests to meet General Manager Charles de Foucault as well as the executives of the newly-appointed management company, West Paces Hotel Group, which was founded by Horst Schulze, a former president of The Ritz-Carlton Group and founding member of The Ritz-Carlton Hotel Company.

Ayana hosted a reception for some 650 guests, media and travel partners at its new avant-garde Champa Garden, a multifaceted 20,000sqm outdoor venue. 100 Balinese men playing traditional bamboo instruments and 21 Garuda Wisnu Kencana dance performers set the tone for the occasion, along with a live performance from Indonesia’s famous ‘touch tapping’ guitarist Wayan Balawan and his band Batuan Ethnic Fusion. De Foucault

COURTESY IMAGE

FRESH AND ANEW

said Ayana is already embarking on intensive renovations at several dining venues and guest rooms. These include a stunning new Rock Bar by renowned interior designer Yasuhiro Koichi of Japan’s Design Studio SPIN, who is also re-designing the Sami Sami Italian restaurant, which will be converted into a grand two-storey structure, and Damar Terrace. Padi restaurant is also being renovated and its Thai menu expanded to include Indonesian and Indian cuisine.

AYANA Resort & Spa, (0361) 702-222; www.ayanaresort.com

The Coca-Cola Indonesian Surfing Championship Pro Tour 2009 was officially launched on Kuta Beach on April 19 in front of the Hard Rock Hotel just before sunset, complete with Balinese gamelan music and dancers, speeches, giveaways, and live music performances, announcing the start of this exciting competitive surfing season. Bruce Waterfield from Coca-Cola Bottling Indonesia headquarters in Jakarta explained that CocaCola Bottling Indonesia’s sponsorship is an extension of its CSR program around Bali, working with local authorities and NGO’s to clean up Bali’s beaches and improve environmental awareness through education. ISC CEO and pro surfer Tipi Jabrik expressed his appreciation to CCBI for their support of the ISC and for surfing in Indonesia. Mr. Ngurah Darma, head of Bali’s Tourism Department, was then presented with his very own surfboard by Tipi Jabrik and Yerki Basuki (GM of Operations, Bali), courtesy of the Coca-Cola ISC tour. www.isctour.com

PHOTO BY NOVENA ASSEN

FULL SURF AHEAD!

SPONSOR

EVENT

DATE

GRADE

Rusty

Rumble in Da Jungle

Apr 26May16

Sanur Reef, Bali

6 Star

Billabong

West Java Pro

May 20-23

Cimaja, West Java

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Quicksilver

King of the Groms

Jul 9-12

Kuta, Bali

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GromSearch 5

Sep 13

Medewi, Bali

Grade 1

Rip Curl

GromSearch Final

Oct 24

Kuta, Bali

Grade 2

PRO JUNIOR

Billabong

Pro Junior

Jul 21-26

Keramas, Bali

Grade 2

Billabong

West Java Pro

May 20-23

Cimaja, West Java

Grade 1

Oakley

Uniquely

Aug 16-17

Kuta, Bali

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Surf & Music Festival

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Quiksilver Open

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May 20-23

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West Sumbawa Pro

Jun 20-30

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Oakley

O’ROK R

Aug 16-17

Kuta, Bali

Grade 1

WOMAN

Rip Curl

Rip Curl Cup

Aug 1-31

PadangPadang, Bali

Oakley

O’ROKR

Aug 16-17

Kuta, Bali

5 Star

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Surf & Music Festival

Oct 25

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Grade 1

Pemda Rote

tentative

Sep 15-20

Rote, NTB

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Oct 29Nov 7

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Surf & Music Festival

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14

LOCATION

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BALI&BEYOND

MAY 2009

Keramas, Bali

6 Star Prime

MASTER

LONGBOARD

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NEW&NEWS

TWO IN THE LIST

COURTESY IMAGES

Conde Nast Traveller “Hot List 2009” lists the 70 new hotels operating around the world, and two Indonesian hotels made it to that “Hot List” for 2009: Hotel Tugu Lombok and St. Regis Bali Resort. Hotel Tugu Lombok ranked #25th on the list. An Indonesian-owned property, it combines cultural sensitivity with global standards of luxury. The lobby is a carved, 100-yearold wooden house, incorporating Malay, Chinese and Colonial influences and stocked with funky antiques. Meals are taken in a soaring pavilion by the pool, presided over by fanciful sculptures of Hindu deities. 18 spacious bungalows are positioned around lavish tropical gardens and shaded walkways, recreating the tranquil atmosphere of a secluded, colonial-era compound, with solid, hand-hewn furniture and oversized copper bathtubs in outdoor bathrooms. The St. Regis Bali Resort ranked #53rd and is described as the newest resort hotel in Bali. The St. Regis has 97 suites, 24 villas (some on the sand, others around lagoon-like pools) and the two enormous Strand Residences. www.tuguhotels.com; www.stregis.com/bali www.cntraveller.com/Special_Features/The_Hot_List_2009

SEVENTH HEAVEN Nikko Bali Resort & Spa introduces its Seventh Heaven Room, located on the seventh floor of the resort’s cliff tower.

The Seventh Heaven room has facilities and amenities specially designed for that ultimate romantic experience. The elegant one-bedroom suite has open wide glass doors flooding the room with light and provides guests with sweeping view of the dramatic Indian Ocean. The highlight of the Seventh Heaven experience lies in the exclusive spa treatments that Mandara Spa prepares only for and is only available at Nikko Bali Resort & Spa in the privacy and comfort of the guest’s room; a romantic dinner in the room, special amenities consisting of a floral bath, an array of organic designer toiletries, daily chocolate pralines and the Seventh Heaven signature gift set, exclusively designed Thai pants, a sarong wrap and an aromatherapy kit. Guests also enjoy exclusive entry to the Nikko Club Lounge.

Nikko Bali Resort & Spa, Nusa Dua (0361) 773-377

PARTNERING TO PAMPER Pevonia Botanica recently launched in the exclusive Laguna Spa & Villa, offering indulgence and relaxation by providing Pevonia Botanica treatment packages. Trained therapists provide full body massages, body scrubs and jet stream showers followed by relaxation and refreshments on traditional day beds. Experiences are enriched by the Pevonia Botanica skin care line. A range of essential aromatherapy mask treatments will be available. Enjoy soothing body wraps; Aromatherapy Body Salt Glow, Anti-Stress, Renew Aromatic Moor Mud Wrap, Purify Moroccan Cocoon with Rassoul, Thalassotherapy with Micronized Seaweed and Balneotherapy with Natural Moor in the lavish surroundings.

The Laguna, Nusa Dua, (0361) 771-327; www.pevonia.com.au 16

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NEW&NEWS

HIGH FOR JULY Agus Frimanto won the Rusty Gromfest Halfway surfing competition event and the series on April 5, surpassing fellow Lembongan prodigy Putra Hermawan in the overall rankings, resulting in a dramatic conclusion to the three event Rusty Gromfest Series Bali, 2009.

The series launched at Keramas in February, followed by an event at Pererenan in March, then culminated at ‘Halfway” Kuta Beach.

Competitors were split into two age divisions - under 14 and under 16 - with Rusty’s team of pro surfers taking on scoring duties under the watchful eye of ISC judges. Over eighty grommets participated in each event. The contests were free to enter with complimentary lunch and goody bags for everyone. Fun games and product giveaways were held throughout the day to engage the hordes of spectators and beach-goers.

Agus Frimanto has been awarded a free trip to compete against the best international junior surfers at the 14th annual Rusty Gromfest to be held at Lennox Head, Australia in July. www.isctour.com

JOIN A WALK OF LIFE...

WHAT’S COOKIN’?

Maya Ubud Resort & Spa welcomes Kath Townsend as its Food and Beverage Director. Kath previously held similar responsibilities in other five star luxury properties including two deluxe boutique resorts in the Maldives and more recently at the Nam Hai in Vietnam. Prior to her assignments in Asia, Kath enriched her culinary skills by taking on several positions in her hometown of Sydney, Australia. She worked with internationally known cook book author and restaurateur Bill Granger in Sydney for four years as Executive Chef.

Maya Ubud Resort & Spa, Peliatan, Ubud, (0361) 977-888; www.mayaubud.com 18

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The Bali Tourism Development Corporation (BTDC), Bali International Women’s Association (BIWA) and Himpunan Humas Perhotelan Bali (HHPB) has organized the charity event “Bali Pink Ribbon Walk for Breast Cancer Awareness” to raise funds to promote breast cancer awareness amongst the women and men of Bali, to provide a mobile breast screening unit staffed by fully trained technicians and nurses, and to set up a breast cancer information center. The event will be held on Friday, May 8 with the start and finish line at the Amphitheatre, Nusa Dua, from 4 pm onward.

Cancer has been an increasing problem for the Bali Health System and Medical Professionals for several reasons. Doctor Tjakra Wibawa Manuaba, Professor of General Surgery & Surgical Oncology of the Udayana University in Denpasar, explained that cancer incidents are increasing and there is no population based cancer registry available in Bali. There are no mass screening programs; the prevalence is especially for breast and colo-rectal cancers shifting to a younger population group; and there is no comprehensive cancer center available in Bali.

73% percent of breast cancer patients in Bali were between 30 - 50 years of age, as well as with colon cancer. 70-80% of breast cancer patients came to the hospital at stage 3 and 4, which is a pity, because of poor prognosis, and sky rocketing costs, most of the patients would not be able to afford it. Public education and promotion of health regarding cancer are important to reduce the rates. BTDC, Nusa Dua, (0361) 771-010

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CRAFT&CULTURE

MASTERS OF

METAL

M

etals have played an important part in the development of human civilization. In Bali, masters of the craft are collectively

called Pande. They are not only a group of professionals but also a clan with special privileges.

The Pande are a significant group in Bali. They are a group of people who are smiths by profession as well as pass on their skills to the following generations.

They have held special positions during the ancient times and were treated almost as royalty. These smiths were mainly assigned to fashioning ceremonial equipment and producing weapons.

Their origins date way back in history, but not all have been clear. If correlated into the caste system in Bali, the Pande fall into the Sudra or labor class. Actually their name, literally ‘smiths’, distinguish them as metal workers, giving them honor in the eye of rulers, where they were highly respected and regarded, due to their special roles and the significance of their work.

In one piece of literature that explains

PHOTO BY VINCENT HERRY

the genealogy of the Pande, they are claimed as being the descendents of Mpu Bradah, a historical Hindu figure who lived during the 11th century. But if we take into account other historical records, we can see that the emergence of the Pande was far earlier than that time.

Archeological research has unveiled several prasasti or ancient epigraphs in the 20

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Smiths in Bali, the Pande, are a significant group on the island. They are a group of people who are masters of the craft by profession, as well as pass on their skills to the following generations.

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21

PHOTO BY NYOMAN ARI GUNADI PHOTO BY NOVENA ASSEN

People still consider that metalwork must be done by those who not only deeply understand the material, but also inherit in their blood the ancient wisdom and skills of the special craft.

22

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villages of Julah and Sembiran in North

the beginning of AD.

Bali made of copper plates. It is estimated

When we take into account Asian

that these inscriptions were from the 10th

history, metallurgy was started before AD

century. In the research carried out within

by the Indochinese who were famous for

that area, it was concluded that during that

the Dongson, a civilization that utilized metal

time there were social groups including the

as part of their livelihood. They eventually

Pande, the workers of metal.

expanded to other regions in Southeast

From this context, the Pande are to be

Asia including Indonesia. In Bali, one of the

classified even more specifically: pande

most famous remains of the Bronze Age

besi (blacksmiths), pande tembaga (copper

was the nekara or kettledrum of Pejeng.

smiths), and pande kangsa (bronze

This single kettledrum is the largest in

smiths). They are then paid for their

Southeast Asia. It can be easily imagined

accomplished labor in metalwork.

then, how long smiths have been around.

As a side note, Julah and Sembiran are

And they exist up to this day. They

two ancient villages in Bali that have had

can easily be identified by their name, as

contact with the outside world, especially

it starts with ‘Pande’. Pande Made Latra

with the sailing Chinese merchants, since

for example, who was the former regent

COURTESY PHOTOS

Pande Wayan Suteja Neka, as if completing his destiny as a Pande, was endowed with the honorary title ‘Jejeneng Mpu Keris’ by the Perkumpulan Warga Pande, or the Association of Pande Members.

of Badung and was a clan member. The

believe that they are the descendents of

unwanted items. Rods and stems are

same goes for the owner of one of the

Brahma, the god of flames symbolized by

thrust into furnaces filled with blazing coal

famous art museums in Ubud, Pande

the color red.

and then stamped into the desired form.

Wayan Suteja Neka.

Just recently, as if completing his

Along the path of time, the Pande not

The items are then cooled and honed

only worked with metal for ceremonies and

on emery wheels or sharpened. Final

destiny as a Pande, he was endowed with

weapons. They also produced household

touches would include ornamentation and

the honorary title ‘Jejeneng Mpu Keris’

utensils, agricultural tools, even art items,

decorative finishes.

by the Perkumpulan Warga Pande, or the

musical instruments and jewelry. They

Association of Pande Members. This was

further distinguish themselves according to

places. This is made possible due to their

in honor of his dedication in preserving the

specific fields, Pande Besi, Pande Gong,

popular demand as producers of daily

heritage of the keris dagger. He has also

or Pande Mas.

household products used by all social strata.

dedicated a portion of his museum space

Pande Besi deals with iron and

Pande Besi can be found in many

The Pande that deal with the

for his keris collection, amongst his vast

household utensils such as knives,

production of art items, gongs in particular,

collection of paintings.

agricultural tools such as sickles, and

are collectively called Pande Gong.

weapons such as the keris. They generally

Instruments in Bali are mostly made up

run small businesses at the family level.

of metal, and their production means

The Pande are also identified by the characteristic red color at their temples and on their ceremonial clothes. They

They gather materials from crude and

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PHOTOS BY DONNY CAHYADI

Most of the metalwork businesses are still governed by the clan of smiths, but several art shops in the Celuk and Singapadu region are run by people not of the clique as well.

that art and music have a specific taksu or magical power that can leave an audience spellbound as they are struck or played.

That is why their creations are out of

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Nowdays, Bali not only presents Kamasan as its main gold and silver items producer. Equally famous for its products is

the ordinary. The central production area

the village of Celuk in the Gianyar regency.

for the gamelan is in the village of Tihingan

You can observe from along the main

in the regency of Klungkung. This village

roadside of the village Celuk, shops and

is famous for the craft and is considered

workshops of the gold and silversmiths in a

home to the Pande Gong.

row under flags of different businesses.

Another group within the clan is the

24

extend to copper and brass.

Most of the metalwork businesses are

Pande Mas, who deal with fine metals.

still governed by the clan of smiths. People

They are mainly found in the village

still consider that metalwork must be done

of Kamasan, also in the regency of

by those who not only deeply understand

Klungkung, which is known as the oldest

and really study the material, but also

community of goldsmiths. It is at large

inherit in their blood the ancient wisdom

up to this day, due to its role that started

and skills of the special craft. But that

back the 14the century. At that time, the

doesn’t mean that no one else except the

Pande loyal to the king produced intricate

clan can be involved. Several art shops in

gold and silver ornaments that were made

the Celuk and Singapadu region are run by

into decorative royal items. Now the

people not of the clique as well. â–

products of the Pande Mas of Kamasan

Text by Ni Luh Dian Purniawati

BALI&BEYOND

MAY 2009

25

INVITE&INDULGE

CHOICE OF RITUAL The award-winning Kriya Spa adds to its extensive range of rituals and full day ‘escapes’, so there are even more selections to choose from - not to mention a deep massage option as well.

T

he name of the wellness

soaking tub, all set in a tranquil courtyard

you’ll be ready to have your selection of

sanctuary itself literally

with water features throughout, enhancing

treatments presented to you by the friendly

means ‘ritual’ in Sanskrit.

the ‘Sanitas Per Aquam’ aspect of the

staff, along with a refreshing welcome

And still fresh in mind was

whole wellness facility.

drink to really set the mood.

the opening of the vast facility back in 2007, when

Towards the spa reception, guests

Further inside the spa villas, the audible

and spa-goers will be transported into a

and visible aspects of water, calm and

it unveiled its 24 luxurious spa villas for

realm of flowing water - both in sight and

moving, provide enhanced singular villa

treatments and full day spa programs, with

in sound, as this focal point of the spa

seclusion for the most relaxing sessions.

architecture inspired by ancient Balinese

complex is where the journey begins.

water palaces.

Sitting on the swish sofas in the

Kriya broke ground featuring Balinese

As Kriya’s spa manager Ms. Luki, and the Director of Spa and Recreation Dr.

reception area, and surrounded by pools

Sanjay Khanzode, explained, that each

healing forms with treatments based on

and pouring water, one’s fatigue is easily

villa has been designed so that guests

‘wellness rituals’ and the use of natural

washed away as the mind tunes in to the

need not leave the inner sanctuary of their

herbs and essences.

lulling of the engulfing sound that dissolves

private suite, which is appointed to deliver

all noise and distraction.

all the services offered at the spa.

Each spa villa offers twin indoor treatment facilities, a private outdoor wet treatment area and custom-designed 26

BALI&BEYOND

MAY 2009

And as the mind eases into focus and turns into a receptive state, you know

The combination of spatial design, flow, and overall ambience, together

Beside sapplying ‘aural cleansing’ prior to treatments, one of the most unique features is that you are required to stare at the Kriya Agni Tray for a minute, which has a small flame to focus on and relax the mind.

BALI&BEYOND

MAY 2009

27

After treatments at the privacy of the spa villas, an inspirational space provides guests the comfort to further relax and enjoy healthy snacks and fruit.

with fine textures, materials and artifacts

Moksha Kriya ‘Harmony’, Aanand Kriya

latter choice is quite unique, and seriously

representing herbs and natural elements,

‘Bliss’, Yowanna Kriya ‘Energy’ and

good for deep tissue massages. That’s

mood-enhancing lighting, natural colors,

Nirmala Kriya ‘Purity’.

because it incorporates that specific Bali

scents and temperature, all provide an

Additions have recently expanded this

Pijat Cokor, or literally ‘foot massage’.

exotic sanctuary for a truly indulgent ‘total-

range of treatment choices; the Cinta Kriya

sensory’ experience.

shares the “Bliss” aspect, comprised of

the Shakti Kriya would be easily mixed up

The menu of treatments that combine

At first glance, the menu description of

3 hours of respite including Customized

with the meaning of ‘foot massage’ and

the best of ancient and modern techniques

Body Refinement Treatment, Customized

‘massage by foot’. But yes, a therapist

is delivered by a team of experienced spa

Deep Tissue Massage, Acupressure Scalp

‘walks on you’ to deliver that deep,

therapists and aestheticians, and programs

Massage, and the Aromatic Salts Hydro

effective kneading for sure.

can be tailored specifically to one’s lifestyle

soak. The Shakti Kriya shares the “Energy”

– ensuring you are taken on a personal

ritual aspect, 2 hours and 30 minutes

half and full-day rituals. All signature spa

journey of tranquility, restoration and

that will revitalize your inner strength with

rituals begin with the Kriya Ritual, a sea

reflection, altogether.

a series of traditional Balinese energizing

salt foot soak and Chakra stimulation

treatments comprising a Traditional Balinese

that cleanses your energy and prepares

specially designed for relaxation,

Boreh Body wrap, Bali Pijat Cokor, and a

you for your healing routine. At the

invigoration and detoxification include:

Mineral Salts and Herbs Hydro Soak. This

conclusion of your ritual you will be served

The initial Kriya ‘rituals’ that were

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BALI&BEYOND

MAY 2009

The Kriya signature treatments are

Guests and spa-goers will be transported into a realm of flowing water - both in sight and in sound, from the focal point of the spa complex where the journey begins.

BALI&BEYOND

MAY 2009

29

The Mineral Salts and Herbs Hydro Soak draw from ancient recipes as a bath that energizes with the purifying and revitalizing qualities of mineral salts, combined with the aroma of the Kriya signature Island spices oil blend.

a light, macrobiotic, wholesome fruit

in clearing blockages and enhancing the

ball that easily fits in your palm is offered

and vegetable blend that will continue

body’s natural internal defense system

by the therapist for you to make a wish

to nourish your body as you relax in the

whilst the traditional medicinal blend of

upon, or in certain treatments where have

comfort of your private spa villa.

cinnamon, clove, camphor, and cajuput

your eyes closed, the therapist shakes

generate heat and help to rebalance

the ball close and its tingling is audible

muscle tone, improving flexibility.

enough as you are told to bury yourself in

In the Shakti Kriya, the traditional Balinese Boreh is a method of body wrap designed to increase energy and ease

The Mineral Salts and Herbs Hydro Soak

positive thoughts. A guest experiences a

muscular aches and pains. A blend of

draw from ancient recipes as a bath that

relieving state of mind when the ball gives

native clove, coconut, cinnamon, and

energizes with the purifying and revitalizing

off a tingling sound from the rolling metal

ginger root is applied to the skin and,

qualities of mineral salts, combined with the

components inside. At the end of each

using specialized touch therapies, is gently

aroma of the Kriya signature Island spices

treatment, a special signature token is

massaged into the body so as to warm up

oil blend. With the natural goodness of

given in the form of an aromatic essential

the muscles, boost circulation and increase

ocean salts, this bath helps to boost blood

oil-dripped ceramic bead on a strand

metabolism.

circulation and assists in improving overall

of twisted organic thread as a bracelet,

energy in mind and body.

allowing guests to take home a token of

And that deep kneading is the Bali Pijat Cokor, which is famous as a traditional

Besides applying ‘aural cleansing’ prior

their Kriya or ‘ritual’. ■

form of deep massage, a technique of

to treatments, one of the most unique

Text by Nyoman Ari Gunadi

manipulation that uses the therapist’s

features is that you are required to stare at

Photos courtesy Kriya Spa

palms and feet on energy lines and

the Kriya Agni Tray for a minute, which has

pressure points to unknot deep-seated

a small flame to focus the mind on.

muscle tension. Pressure point work aids 30

BALI&BEYOND

MAY 2009

After treatments at Kriya Spa, a brass

■ Kriya Spa, Grand Hyatt Bali, Nusa Dua (0361) 771-234; www.hyattpure.com

BALI&BEYOND

MAY 2009

31

PROFILE&PORTRAIT

In May 2006 we featured surfing legend Kim ‘Fly’ Bradley and invited him to share his personal insights. Kim passed away last month on Nyepi Day, the Balinese holy day of silence. This is dedicated to the memory of one of the island’s first surfing pioneers.

THE ‘FLY’ FLEW AWAY...

A

ustralian surfing pioneer

on one of those casual meetings and from

not. I think the main reason I came to Bali

Kim ‘Fly’ Bradley passed

the long acquaintance with such a friendly

was to go surfing. For a 19-year-old the

away March 26 on Nyepi

and down to earth soul, who engaged in

experience was amazing, and the first thing

Day, the Balinese Hindu

long and lively talks about his life passion

I noticed was how friendly everyone was.

Day of Silence, at the age

- surfing.

Arriving in Kuta from the Ngurah Rai Airport

of 64. He was found by

The surf legend, surf mentor, former

was something totally new. Kuta was a

family members sitting relaxed and facing

surf “film star”, and once active surfboard

fishing and farming village with a couple of

seaward in his favorite room in the house

designer and overall one of the island’s

hotels, a couple of restaurants, homestays,

he built overlooking Kuta, two days later.

shadowy surf pioneers, talked to us at Bali

warung stalls, coconut fields, grazing cows,

Kim surfed the Bukit area almost alone in

& Beyond about his personal views and

chooks and a beach. In the mid 70’s,

the early 70s.

memories on the once quiet fishing village

about 80 percent of the spots in Bali were

and surf playground known as Kuta.

unknown.”

This surfing legend, a convert to Hinduism, was to be cremated as this goes

In the early years when he first picked

Where the favorite surf spots were

to press at the end of April, in respect to

up surfing: “Yep, it was down under. I’m

at the time, and the best and worst

the grand rituals held earlier at Besakih.

not sure, don’t really remember... I guess

experiences: “The Bukit peninsula was too

I was 5 or 6 back then, carving over the

obvious—lefts down one side, rights down

northern beaches in the 60s. After surfing

foam on a thing called a ‘surf plane’. This

the other. If you could learn the seasons

and falling in love with, and in, Bali, he

neat invention looked something like a

and figure out the tides it had to be good.

established a surfboard design and shaping

short blown-up mattress. Quite a good toy

One was totally impressed. As to my best

company. He claimed to have made the

that helps you get prepared for the more

surfing and worst surfing experiences,

first surfboard built in Indonesia and later

serious surfing. You don’t see these things

they’re pretty well evenly matched.”

started a successful clothing business with

around anymore”.

Kim grew up surfing Sydney’s

his Balinese wife. On casual meetings, as

About his first visit to Bali, what made

On the first locals that he got to know: “When I returned in 1975 I met five Balinese

he was quite easy to call on and bump into,

him come to this island that he then

guys who had been given boards and were

he would often talk about his early days on

considered home, and how the people

learning to surf. We were all the same age

Bali when he surfed the famous breaks of

were and the scene way back then: “I was

and became friends.”

Dreamland, Nusa Dua and Balangan on his

moved after seeing the movie Morning of

own in 1974.

the Earth. In May of 1974, a few mates

champs: “I think it was in 1977. Bapak

said ‘let’s go to Bali’. I was already leaving

Brata, Mike Boyom and Gerry Lopez held

for an overseas trip and so I thought why

it. I wasn’t in Bali at the time but I’ve seen a

Our profile on Kim this month last year, “Pretty Fly… for a White Guy”, was based 32

BALI&BEYOND

MAY 2009

The first surfing contest in Bali, the first

With his original surfboard designs, from his design workshop Bali Design (opposite page); carving down a wave at the Bukit in his younger years (left); and with a younger Balinese generation on the beach during the Kuta Karnival (below).

Ida Bagus Mantra, Indonesians could see that surfing was a healthy sport, and just look at what has happened. Not only in Bali but in other parts of Indonesia. Now many people, surfers and non surfers alike, have benefited.”

His thoughts on the erosion that has

PHOTO BY PIPING/BSP

become common in Kuta, he continuously proposed a resanding of Kuta Beach.

According to Kim, before the extension of the airport runway in the late 60s, the sand would flow south to north from Jimbaran to Kuta. Since the runway emerged this has stopped, causing erosion on the north side and a buildup on the south side. “If a pump system was set up then sand again photo and there were about 25 surfers.”

Kauh (which happens to be my very

would flow to Kuta Beach, returning it to

own home village. No wonder my uncles

its previous beauty. For example, see Nusa

home after he met a Balinese girl and

talked of a white guy once staying there

Dua and Sanur. This is the second concept

got married, and then had two beautiful

and making funny shaped canoes in the

that I have had in mind. The first I had was

children. He became a board shaper with

village... it was Kim, and the canoes were

back in June 1982.”

his skills in carpentry in junior high school,

surfboards!). “It wasn’t a factory, it was my

so through fixing dings started to get into

friend’s bike shed… ya know, a shed where

“What would be good for all is no localism.

shaping as well. When he was a kid, most

my friend parked his motorbikes. Then I

So surfers from all over the world can come

of his boards were custom made for him

made a workshop in Kuta but I wouldn’t

to Bali and beyond and enjoy this gift”.

so he would sit and watch the shaper

call it a factory, not high production. But it

while it was being made. And that is how

was the first in Indonesia.”

Kim decided to stay and call Bali

he picked it up.

His wish for the future of surfing in Bali:

When asked on how he got to be known by his nickname “the Fly”, he told us

As a surfing legend, on his thoughts

that when he was still a grommet, he was

about the growth of surfing in the island

considered a pest by the other guys. And

Growing up in the short board revolution

from past until present: “When I see what’s

this last remark, we assume and conclude,

his teachers gave him an attitude that said

happened in Bali and beyond Indonesia,

was meant as an inspiration for all young

‘anything is possible’. So the last boards he

I’m stoked. When surfing first came to

surfers out there. Rest in peace, our dear

was riding were concave double concave V

Indonesia it was looked down upon. Then

friend and mentor. ■

single wing fin.

with the formation of the Bail Surfing Club

By Nyoman Ari Gunadi

and the support of Bali’s then Governor

Photos from personal archive

Over the years his boards evolved.

His first factory in Bali was in Suwung

BALI&BEYOND

MAY 2009

33

PONDERINGPOINT

GO KOMODO Despite UNESCO’s affirmation that it has no link whatsoever with a recent initiative to produce a ‘New Seven Wonders’ list, some countries continue to compete in the polls to make it on the list and so does Indonesia, putting forth its Komodo National Park.

O

ne of the prides of

at Ephesus, the Mausoleum of Maussollos

occasions, the organization decided not to

Indonesia is the iconic

at Halicarnassus, the Colossus of Rhodes,

collaborate with Mr. Weber. The “7 New

Borobudur temple in

and the Lighthouse of Alexandria.

Wonders of the World” will be released in

Central Java, which is

In time, the versions of the Seven

the year 2010.

considered one of the

Wonders of the World developed into

great wonders of the

many varieties of sets, namely the Seven

reaffirmed that there is no link whatsoever

world. Lately it is realized that the temple is

Wonders of the Medieval World, the

between UNESCO’s World Heritage

seldom mentioned. However new lists are

Modern World, the Underwater World,

program, which aims to protect world

soon to be released and Indonesia might

Natural Seven Wonders, and other newer

heritage sites, and the current campaign

perhaps make it.

unofficial versions.

“The New 7 Wonders of the World”.

The discourse on the seven wonders

On day 7, month 7 of the year 2007,

UNESCO, in an official release even

UNESCO’s objective and mandate

started when the Greek scribe Antipater of

a campaign was launched as a private

is to assist countries in identifying,

Sidon in the year 140 BC wrote a poem that

initiative by Bernard Weber, the idea being

protecting and preserving world heritage

mentioned several ancient world locations,

to encourage citizens around the world

sites. Acknowledging the sentimental or

such as the Great Pyramid of Giza, the

to select seven new wonders of the world

emblematic value of sites and inscribing

Hanging Gardens of Babylon, the Statue

by popular vote. Although UNESCO was

them on a new list is not enough. Scientific

of Zeus at Olympia, the Temple of Artemis

invited to support this project on several

criteria must be defined, the quality of

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BALI&BEYOND

MAY 2009

candidates evaluated, and legislative and

often highlighted. The park is comprised

of Marketing of the Ministry of Culture &

management frameworks set up. The

of three large islands: Komodo, Rinca and

Tourism stated his optimism in Komodo

relevant authorities must also demonstrate

Padar, with a total land area of 603 square

National Park achieving votes of the 2010

commitment to these frameworks as well

km and a total area covering 1,817 square

“New 7 Wonders” results announcement.

as to permanently monitor the state of

km. This park was first established in 1980

conservation of the sites. The task is one

to protect the giant lizard known as the

boast natural beauty and historical sites.

of technical conservation and political

Komodo dragon, and its habitat. In 1986,

But if there were even one among them

persuasion. There is also a clear educational

the national park was included as one of the

that was considered among the wonders

role with respect to the sites’ inherent value,

world’s heritage sites by UNESCO.

of the world, it would enhance Indonesia’s

the threats they face, and what must be done to prevent their loss.

UNESCO further explains, “There is

The Indonesian government is currently interested in promoting the Komodo

Indonesia itself is rich in locations that

popularity in the eyes of the world.

Tourism is one of the major sources of

National Park so that it gains a high number

foreign exchange besides oil and gas. On

no comparison between Mr. Weber’s

of votes from the world community in

the other hand, it can also boost tourism

mediatized campaign and the scientific

the private initiative version of the seven

in the eastern region of Indonesia. Tourism

and educational work resulting from the

wonders. This will be made possible due

development in this country is almost

inscription of sites on UNESCO’s World

to the uniqueness of the park, which is

always focused on Bali. Meanwhile, the

Heritage List. The list of the “7 New

famous the world over and speaks for itself.

government has realized that among the

Wonders of the World” will be the result of

In terms of votes, also because Indonesia

main weaknesses in tourism development in

a private undertaking, reflecting only the

ranks among the big five of the most

Indonesia is poor destination management

opinions of those with access to the internet

populated countries. Unfortunately, votes

and the dependency of tourism on a certain destination, resulting in the slow development of the eastern region.

This needs attention from all sides.

Perhaps we need not feel sorry that Borobudur is no longer on the new ‘lists’, as it still considered a world heritage site

by UNESCO and its historical and cultural significance speaks for itself, evident by the large number of visitors each day.

Indonesians surely hope for the even distribution of development through its vast regions, and that people must equally benefit. For the time being, to become a ‘new wonder of the world’, Komodo National Park must make it to the first place

and not the entire world. This initiative

are cast online over the internet. Thus,

in category E (forest/national park/nature

cannot, in any significant and sustainable

Indonesia must admit that not all of its

reserves).

manner, contribute to the preservation of

population has access to the web, perhaps

sites elected by this public.”

only just over 50%.

Meanwhile, at a more official event, next month the World Heritage Committee will

The names to be included in the

Yet, promotions keep on rolling.

meet for its 33rd session in Seville, Spain

list are to involve participation from the

The Indonesian government through its

from June 22-30. During the session, the

world community. And the polling itself

Department of Culture and Tourism will

Committee will consider requests for the

had started years ago. Competition is

hold the World Peace Orchestra (WPO)

addition of new sites on UNESCO’s World

engagingly tight and the online ratings

on May 21 at the Plenary Hall in the

Heritage List and examine the state of

change by the second.

Jakarta Convention Center. The event is

conservation of sites already on the List. ■

to be led by famed national composer

Text by Ni Luh Dian Purniawati, photos

the private initiative, countries have gotten

Dwiki Dharmawan, carrying a theme that

courtesy www.komodonationalpark.org

involved due to the marketing power that it

promotes peace and cultural diversity. Big

may promise.

on the agenda is the campaign of “Vote

Despite UNESCO distancing itself from

Although the Borobudur temple is no longer included on the list, the Komodo National Park in East Nusa Tenggara is

Komodo National Park for ‘The New 7 Wonders’.”

Sapta Nirwandar, the Director General

■ UNESCO World Heritage Center whc.unesco.org ■ New7Wonders www.new7wonders.com BALI&BEYOND

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35

ACTION&ATTRACTION

DAYBREAKS ALONG THE EAST COAST

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PHOTO BY ARVID NICOLAS

Bali’s tranquil East Coast is the best region in which to witness the day’s first nature poetry - birds call and cocks crow to the glorious yellow disc rising from the sailspeckled horizon of the Lombok Strait, signaling yet another episode in the island’s perpetuation of life. Here, visitors can escape the crowds of Bali’s South, and some will find it hard to believe that scenery like this exists on the other side of the island.

37

PHOTO BY ARVID NICOLAS

Breathtaking vistas of Amed; and the real beauty is actually ‘down, under there’.

W

hen people find

Setting humor aside, we travel to the

houses noticeably abound, as do the

a place that is

east of the island where both parties dare

choices of dining, which tend to be more

different and

not venture, leaving it to a special portion

on the ‘wild’ and traditional side. And the

unique, mixed

of the demography – the adventurous, the

highlight of the east is its adventurous

responses will

explorers, the territory of true travelers. And

aspect. Some openly admit that if you’re

be common. Say

that particular coast is Amed, which also

not in the water there’s just not a lot to do.

for instance, Sanur. While a portion of the

eventually encounters its own pun: “arid”.

And here’s no pun, but a rule of thumb for

visitor demographic would say it is among

There’s not much ‘life’ compared to some

sure: they say, “If it’s dry and arid overland,

the most calm and most relaxing parts of

of the other parts. Many who have ventured

then the underwater scenes must be out of

the island, the other half would get quite

there returned with dire warnings - there

this world! If you can’t dive, you got to be

overwhelmed by the slow pace of the area,

are no ATM’s, and nightlife remains in that

able to swim and snorkel to at least witness

and go on playing around with its name

aforementioned western part of the island

the real beauty, down there! Well worth

to tag it with the pun “snore…” That latter

(where it should stay). But behind those

getting wet and blowing some bubbles!

half would prefer to go west to Kuta, while

warnings there are also smirks, concealing

the previous in turn, would tag Kuta with

some selfish ‘discoveries’. We’ll try to show

seclusion far from the crowds. Tulamben,

comparison to India’s metropolitan city of

you some of these well kept secrets.

around 20 minutes away, is where the

Calcutta, which continues to struggle with

It’s true how underdeveloped the east

The attraction basically lies in its

famous Liberty wreck dive site lies. Diving

problems of pollution and traffic congestion.

coast is as compared to the west. Yet in

here is pretty good and certainly up there

Ogden Nash might have smiled.

the east, accommodations and guest-

with other great dive spots. Check out

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39

Typical rows of traditional jukung fishing boats in Amed; the catch of the daybreak is being pulled in Manggis.

the two dives there, the first a coral wall

Blue Lagoon has very nice shallow reefs

complex originally built by the last King of

drop-off down to about 18 meters and the

that are perfect for photography dives and

Karangasem in 1919, which also provides

second the wreck of the US Liberty, down

night dives. Night diving is a good option

a high vantage point from which to enjoy

to about 26 meters.

here, as a completely different variety of

marvelous views of the sea, hills with lush

unusual marine life comes out to play at

green forests, and the beauty of Mount

Candidasa, offers some of the best diving

night. Hit the road an hour and a half or so

Agung and the green terraced rice fields;

in Bali. There are three small islands: Gili

to Padangbai - the port to Lombok where

Tenganan, an original ‘Bali Aga’ village and

Mimpang, Gili Tepekong and Gili Biaha.

ferries depart to Lombok on approximately

home to a distinctive and still-living ancient

The marine life and coral growth are

4-5 hour sea journeys.

culture is, different from other villages

Amuk Bay, located near Padangbai and

exceptionally rich, with large pelagic and

And when you’re not in the water, the

in Bali with its rare geringsing weaving

beautiful underwater reef systems. More

preliminary journey eastward has vast

methods; and the Goa Lawah bat cave

experienced divers will be challenging

choices that can be experienced along

temple, a sacred cave temple blanketed by

themselves in the currents around these

the way. Fascinating tours enable you to

thousands of bats.

spots. A short boat ride from Padangbai

visit the ancient Court House of Justice at

brings you to Gili Tepekong, which offers

Klungkung. Constructed in the late 18th

elsewhere. After the big day out and about

great walls and strong currents, coupled

century, the walls and ceilings are covered

and under the water the previous day, the

with superb coral and marine life. Gili

with paintings depicting episodes and

Amed mornings are magical as the sun

Mimpang consists of four small islands

scenes of the horrors awaiting those who

rises from a jukung sail speckled horizon

between Gili Tepekong and the Bali

do evil while on earth. Nearby, the Bale

above the Lombok strait. And along the

mainland. Underwater, the vast amount of

Kambang (floating pavilion) and a museum

coast of Candidasa, darkness subsides

sea fans offers superb underwater scenery.

complex are open to the public.

as blue sky and blue sea slowly fade in…

This site goes down to around 18 meters

From the luxury resorts such as the Alila

And there’s this sight that you can’t find

offerings so unposed and direct, thus,

so there is plenty of time to explore this

Manggis or the Amankila, you can explore

another pun created: “candid.” ■

beautiful site.

Taman Ujung, a water pleasure-palace

Text and photos by Nyoman Ari Gunadi

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41

BEYONDBALI

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THE ‘BLAZING BARGE’ This ritual at Bagansiapiapi stems from folklore of the sailing Chinese who fled from the threats of the Siamese rulers. The tale goes that the idols of Chinese deities aboard their barge blessed them with a safe journey.

O

ur destination this

with the regencies of Rokan Hulu and

time is Pulau Batu

Bengkalis, then to the west with the North

Mandi Island, one of

Sumatra province and to the east with the

the outermost of the

town of Dumai.

92 peripheral islands of the Republic of

Most of the Rokan Hilir region is comprised of rivers and islands. The Rokan

Indonesia that is located within the Riau

River is one of the largest rivers that flows

province – in the Rokan Hilir regency with

350 kilometers from its upstream in Rokan

its capital of Bagansiapiapi. Batu Mandi fits

Hulu towards its downstream in Rokan Hilir

in the array of the Jemur islands, which the

(hence the names in Indonesian hilir for

locals call by the name Kepulauan Arwah

downstream and hulu for upstream). As one

or ‘the Spirit Islands’. This trip was a data

of the largest rivers, Sungai Rokan plays

collection expedition of the 92 peripheral

an important role as the peoples’ traffic

islands that form the boundary between

and economic playground. The other major

Indonesia and its neighboring countries.

rivers include Sungai Kubu, Sungai Daun,

Rokan Hilir comprises 8,881.59 square kilometers or 888,159 hectares and is located at a latitude of 01°14’ to 02°45’

Sungai Bangko, Sungai Sinaboi, Sungai Mesjid, Sungai Siakap, and Sungai Ular.

Most of the area consists of lowlands

and a longitude of 100°17’ to 101°21’.

and marshes, especially along Rokan and

Rokan Hilir boundaries to the north with

its estuary. The region has significantly

the Malaccan Strait and to the south

fertile land and has become the foremost BALI&BEYOND

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43

agricultural area in the Riau province.

source of living, the ritual of burning effigies

that is celebrated with much joy and color,

of the Tongkang Chinese barges takes

where rituals are also accompanied by

as the ‘Town of the Blazing Barges’ or Kota

place every year. The tradition is carried

various entertainment such as barongsai lion

Bakar Tongkang. This is a traditional ritual

out commemorating the anniversary

dance troupes, traditional music, operas,

among the Chinese descendents there.

celebration of the God of the Sea known

as well as modern musical performances

as Kie Ong Ya, who governs the seas.

by top national and international bands

by its core name of Go Ge Cap Lak. This

The ritual takes place every 15th and 16th

and artists. The festivities last for three

stems from folklore by the sailing Chinese

of the 5th month of the Chinese Imlek

days, culminating with setting ablaze the

who fled from the threats of the Siamese

calendar, collectively referred to as “Go

Tongkang barge effigies.

rulers. Aboard a barge led by Ang Mie Kui

Gwe 15”. This year, Go Gwe 15 is next

were the idols of the Chinese deities Kie

month on Sunday-Monday, June 7-8,

RITUAL PROCESSES

Ong Ya and Five Gods. These idols were

which also sees a full moon.

Rituals of prayer are carried out in two

Rokan Hilir is also famously nicknamed

This ritual at Bagansiapiapi is referred to

brought from Mainland China according

It is said that this ceremony has

phases. First, the Tongkang is paraded

to the belief that the gods blessed them

taken place since the year 1920, or long

towards the In Hok Kiong temple on

with a safe journey until their arrival at

before the founding of the largest Pekong

Chinese Imlek month 5, day 15 (to

Bagansiapiapi.

(Chinese temple) located in the town

coincide Sunday, June 7). Second, the

center of Bagansiapiapi.

Tongkang is sanctioned and kept at the In

In reverence and blessing for the safe journey and prosperity of the sea, which had become the descendents’ main 44

BALI&BEYOND

MAY 2009

It has become an annual routine among the Chinese descendents of Bagansiapiapi

Hok Kiong on Chinese Imlek month 5, day 16 (to coincide Monday, June 8).

The first offerings are done as the clock strikes midnight local time on Day 1.

Pilgrims start their solemn prayers, where

ritual is overseen by a Chinese shaman commonly known as Tangki.

Afterwards, the temple is opened once

large hio or incense sticks are lit, then

again and prayers continue until the time

offerings such as cakes, fruits, pork meat,

comes when the barges are set ablaze at

fish or chicken are arrayed upon the altar.

the funerary site on the commercial street

This ritual continues up until noon, until

of Bagansiapiapi. Preparations leading

the time comes to fetch the Tongkang

up to the blaze include the gathering of

effigy from its ‘construction site’. At around

all dignitaries from the Chinese temples

4pm local time, the Tongkang is paraded

at Bagansiapiapi, who take part in the

towards the In Hok Kiong.

parading of the Tongkang. Each envoy uses

After the Tongkang is in front of the

their own uniform as their identity for their

Chinese temple, praying activities come to

group. Besides, each group brings their

a stop and the temple is temporarily closed

own Tangki along with their magic shows.

to allow for the god Kie Ong Ya to ‘host’

All join in on the parade, and then

the other gods and enjoy the prepared

gather in the yard of the In Hok Kiong and

feast of offerings. This continues up until

flow towards the funerary arena trailed by

midnight, and as the second day arrives

tens of thousands of pilgrims.

the Tongkang is sanctioned. This specific

Upon reaching the arena, first the BALI&BEYOND

MAY 2009

45

M A L L A C A

BAGANSIAPIAPI

S T A

RUPAT ISLAND

R

TELUKMERBAU

RIAU PROVINCE

IT S

DUMAI

BATUPANJANG

BENGKALIS

ENREKANG

DURI

PADANG ISLAND RANGSANG ISLAND RIAU ARCHIPELAGO PROVINCE

SELAT PANJANG

PEKANBARU

TEBINGTINGGI

BANDUNG

TERUSAN BANGKINANG

KUALAMANDAH

LIPATKA

TEMBILAHAN CERENTI

RENGAT

TELIKKUANTAN

BASO ISLAND NIUR ISLAND

PULAUKIJANG

INDONESIA

position of the Tongkang’s bow must be determined according to instructions from Kim Ong Ya, which is believed to be the

THE SEA GOD’S PEACE MONUMENT

symbol of peace between the god of the

In the middle of the town of

fishermen who couldn’t go to sea due to

sea and a Chinese monk. There were many

direction of the people’s good source of

Bagansiapiapi there is a peace monument

the forces of the sea god, so only after a

living or virtue for the people’s wellbeing

that measures 80 x 40 x 8 cm and is

‘truce’ was made were the fishermen able

and safety.

consecrated by the Chinese descendents.

to go to sea again with ease. ■

According to tale, the monument is a

Text and photos by Jim Huri

When the direction of the bow is determined, the Tongkang is positioned and ceremonial paper money is piled up on the burning barge’s side. In minutes, thousands of paper squares turn into

TRAVEL REMARKS:

large flames and engulf the whole barge,

- Don’t forget to check the Chinese calendar.

rendering the whole structure into ash...

- In Bagansiapiapi there is no public transport system. The locals hire ojek or motorcycle

Those that come to the town of

taxis and motorized becak, or use speedboats for inter-village transportation.

Bagansiapiapi during this ritual not only

- It gets pretty hot and humid between July and August in Bagansiapiapi.

come from villages around Bagansiapiapi

- Rooms start from a low of Rp. 175,000 per room (2 beds).

but also from major cities in Indonesia such

- Transportation: from Pekanbaru (Riau) to Bagansiapiapi is Rp. 100,000 per person and

as Medan, Pekanbaru, Jakarta, Surabaya,

is an 8-hour journey with a one-time lunch break; from Dumai to Bagansiapiapi it is Rp.

and elsewhere – even from Malaysia,

120,000 per person and is a 4 to 5 hour journey.

Singapore, Hong Kong, and Taiwan.

- Don’t forget to bring a camera!

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BALI&BEYOND

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47

CAPITALCORNER

SETU BABAKAN

LIVING A LEGACY

P

Amidst the hubbub of the metropolis lives a lakeside hamlet community that preserves and lives its Betawi traditions and cultural heritage.

erhaps many are not aware that Jakarta has a dedicated residential area that has the purpose of preserving the Betawi culture as well as acting

as a tourist attraction. Kampung Betawi, a neighborhood located in the district of Srengseng Sawah, Jagakarsa, is a cultural tourism area that has much potential with a gorgeous natural environment. And it can even be said that it has already become difficult to find amidst the hubbub of the present-day Jakarta metropolis. But it is in this area that you can encounter and enjoy various Betawi-related art and culture, such as typical Betawi cuisine and Betawi houses. This cultural Betawi hamlet consists of four ‘RW’ or Rukun

by then Governor of Jakarta Sutiyoso,

covers an area of 6.7 hectares and Setu

Warga (administrative units at the next-to-

the Betawi cultural residential area was

Babakan, which covers 20 hectares. Setu

lowest level in a city, consisting of several

initiated with the purpose of continually

Babakan is utilized by various warungs or

‘RT’s or Rukun Tangga) with around 3,000

cultivating and protecting the livelihood,

traditional food stalls that offer a variety of

families. Most of the inhabitants are original

structure, and cultural values of Betawi

traditional snacks and cuisine. Visitors may

Betawi, but there are other citizens from

society. And besides, coordinators also

relax on benches at each shaded lakeside

various places in Indonesia who have long

planned and utilized the physical, natural,

stall, or they can fish and tour the lake by

inhabited the area and have adapted to the

and artificial potential to enhance its

boat. Other activities include pedaling and

local Betawi customs. This area is special

attraction as a cultural tourist attraction.

paddling canoes, inflatable water balls and

in that you can mingle and get acquainted

The residential area is thus also equipped

fishing, or you can just enjoy the view.

with the Betawi society that still holds on to

with various facilities such as places of

its culture and traditions.

worship, performing arts stages, children’s

Bang Pitung, a heroic Betawi figure from

playgrounds and an assortment of

the Dutch colonial times, at the entrance

amenities for visitors.

towards the residential area from Jalan

Following a gubernatorial decree that was issued on January 20 of 2000, which saw the sanctioning of the Setu Babakan Betawi cultural residential area 48

BALI&BEYOND

MAY 2009

In this 289-hectare area, there is the namesake Setu (lake) Mangga Bolong that

A visit starts by entering the gateway of

Moh. Kahfi II, where it becomes visible to welcome everyone in. For visiting

Among the cultural shows, are traditional music, dance performances and Pencak Silat martial arts routines performed by youngsters.

BALI&BEYOND

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49

In Setu Babakan there is an open theater of about 60 square meters that acts as a place for Betawi performing arts, for dances and traditional Betawi icons such as the Ondel-ondel (far left).

pedestrians, no entrance fees are charged.

either “assalamualaikum warahmatullahi

steed. It could also fly, thus pictured with

As for motorized vehicles, only parking

wabarakatuh”, “bismillah”, or two lines of

strong elegant wings. And it could talk

fees apply.

the syahadat over the main doorframe.

eloquently, thus pictured having a beautiful

Outside the front wall near the window

face. The Buraq itself in the syariat

which have a unique architectural story to

there would be a glass painting adorned

language is described as incredibly fast,

tell. According to Betawi tradition, Betawi

clothes hook, and other forms of

that of incomprehensible speed (extra,

houses built incomplete with windows

calligraphy would be hung on the inside.

extra, extra supersonic!). The combination

Betawi houses are everywhere, all of

and doors are not to be inhabited. Even

Also unique – if calligraphy weren’t

its owner wouldn’t stay in it if there were

adorned – in the same place there would

this ‘imperfection’. The last building

be a picture of the Buraq, the miraculous

The houses have large spacious

task would be adding the décor, the

steed from Islamic tradition which carried

yards with wide roads and fences called

typical patterns and motifs known as

the prophet Muhammad during the Isra

pager jaro. The heights of these fences

gigi baling, pucuk rebung, and others.

Mi’raj (“Night Journey”). The Buraq in

are around a meter or so and are made

Then it is further improved with additional

this description by the Betawi people is a

of bamboo assembled in such a manner

interior and exterior decorations that are

golden-winged white steed with a face of

that family activities in the verandah

comprised of calligraphic glass paintings

a pretty woman. The Buraq is considered

would be easily visible. In these jaro there

containing the Islamic greetings of

a very fast transporter, thus pictured as a

would creep saga leaves, betel vines

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BALI&BEYOND

MAY 2009

of colors and illustrations of the Buraq in such a way results in an admirable display.

BALI&BEYOND

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51

and the purple blossoms of the kembang

there is a management office and visitor

teleng (Clitoria Ternatea). These three are

information center. The theater is located

considered the main medicinal plants of

within a vast and foliage shaded area.

management continuously presents various

the households for curing ailments such

Traditional performing arts range from the

Betawi cultural highlights on certain days, by

as mouth ulcers, fever, coughs, and more.

Qasidah, Marawis, Keroncong, Gambang

inviting anyone to perform, as long as it is

To cure eye conditions, especially those in

Kromong, Lenong and Gambus, as well

Betawi related. The arts will continue to be

babies, the teleng would be soaked and

as the Tari Topeng and Ondel-ondel.

displayed in hopes that they will continue for

the water would be applied as a tutuh or

There is also a sanggar budaya or cultural

generations. One way is by including artists

compress. Around the fences would also

workshop that trains children and helps to

from various areas in the metropolis.

grow prampun or asparagus. Besides

preserve the Betawi culture.

utilizing bamboo, hedges are also grown

Generally, these arts will be performed

8,000 to 9,000 visitors come each month.

That is one of the reasons that the

The management has also provided several buildings with Betawi ornaments

with clumps of uribang, kemuning, bluntas,

routinely on Saturdays and Sundays or

that function as accommodations.

sugi, andong, mangkokan, and others.

on national holidays from 2pm–5pm local

Therefore, visitors have the opportunity

It is hoped that the traditional Betawi

time, which is when visitor numbers usually

to get even more acquainted with the

architecture will endure and can be turned

peak. The performances mainly take place

Betawi atmosphere. This residential area

into a main part of the attraction.

in the open theater and can be viewed

is also frequently visited by international

by all for free. The number of visitors on

tourists. Most of them are interested by the

theater of about 60 square meters that

peak days can reach up to 2,500. But on

well-preserved culture of this lake bound

acts as a place for Betawi performing arts.

normal days, there will usually be from 250

enclave called Setu Babakan. ■

Inside the ‘village’, just beside the theater,

to 1,000 visitors. It is estimated that from

Text and photos by Alcibbum

In Setu Babakan there is an open

52

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BALI&BEYOND

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53

BEYONDUPDATES OF HISTORY AND REFINEMENT

SPLENDOR AND GRANDEUR

The Phoenix Hotel Yogyakarta becomes the second MGallery in Asia following the opening earlier this month of the Vie Hotel Bangkok.

MGallery is a small collection of highly distinctive and upscale hotels that have an exceptional personality through one or more of four principal elements: Vision, Design, History or Location. Phoenix Hotel Yogyakarta has been selected to join MGallery thanks to its remarkable history and refinement. Today there are 19 MGallery hotels on 5 continents. Elegantly set in the heart of Yogyakarta, close to Malioboro Street and the palace of Yogyakarta Sultanate, the majestic building of The Phoenix Hotel Yogyakarta dates back to the early 1900s. The setting of the hotel captures the colonial essence enriched with the elegance of Javanese and Chinese decorative features. The ambience represents the feeling of a classical bygone era wrapped in contemporary comfort, an ideal setting for discerning travelers. The hotel boasts 144 exquisite rooms, including 10 suites and 1 disabled room, each have private balconies overlooking the urban streetscape, the hotel grounds, or the hotel swimming pool. Guests can enjoy body and mind rejuvenation options at My Spa, where age old Javanese and contemporary treatments meet to retreat from urban stress. The Phoenix Hotel Yogyakarta has launched the “Borobudur City Experience” package for a limited period through June 30. Priced at US$180 (inclusive of service and tax), this offer includes one night stay in a Deluxe room, airport transfers, breakfast, half-day visit to the legendary Borobudur temple, car rental and set dinner for 2 persons at the Paprika restaurant.

For reservations visit www.mgallery.com The Phoenix Hotel Yogyakarta, (0274) 566-617

Waisak or Vesak, a holy Buddhist day remembering the birth, enlightenment and death of Buddha, sees an annual festival taking place at Borobudur, the world’s largest Buddhist monument. This year’s Waisak falls on May 9, a full moon. The five-mile pilgrimage from Mendut to the serene sitting Buddha on the top of Borobodur is walked by hundreds of monks in saffron robes carrying offerings of flowers and candles. As the moon rises over the horizon, candles are lit and the monks begin praying, meditating and chanting well into the evening, a vision guaranteed to last a lifetime. Various hotels in Yogyakarta and its environs add the day to their highlight agendas and provide special tours.

EARLY NEXT YEAR...

Aston International has been appointed to manage the Aston Jogjakarta Hotel & Convention Center. The 155 room, 4 star Hotel developed by PT. Jonathan Bintang Utama is set to open in January 2010. The hotel will have a combination of Standard, Superior and Deluxe rooms. It will also have four meeting rooms (each with a capacity of 110 pax per room), a ballroom with a seating capacity of 500, a coffee shop, Sky Lounge, lobby lounge, swimming pool, business center, and a fitness center. Aston Jogjakarta is centrally located on Urip Sumoharjo (Jalan Solo) adjacent to the Galleria Mall and the central banking and office district. The hotel is also within walking distance of Malioboro, Museum Affandi, Prambanan Temple, the Palace, and just 10 minutes from the airport. For tourists wanting to venture out of Yogyakarta, the Borobudur Temple is a one hour drive, Gunung Merapi (Merapi Volcano) is a half hour drive, as is Kota Gede; famous for its silver industry.

Aston International Hotels, Resorts and Residences, Wisma Staco 3rd Floor, Suite 100, Jl. Casablanca Kav. 18, Jakarta (021) 831-8800, www.aston-international.com 54

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55

BEYONDUPDATES

LIFE’S AN OCEAN Indonesia hosts the World Ocean Conference 2009 this month with the aim of growing commitment for the sustainable management of marine resources.

Problems such as the impact of climate change on oceans and the degradation of land and marine resources have seriously affected global development.

Efforts to reverse this trend are urgently required, thus will be discussed throughout this conference taking place from May 11-15 in Manado, Sulawesi. This ministerial level meeting of 121 countries is to produce a Manado Ocean Declaration. www.woc2009.org

FLYING EAST, NOT SOUTH Despite its record-setting performance for Australian visitors to Bali, Garuda Indonesia has announced that it will cease all air service to the Northern Territory capital of Darwin immediately. Garuda started flying between Bali and Darwin in 1980, and just prior to its decision to withdraw its Darwin service was operating a thrice-weekly service. Travel industry speculation is that Garuda found the Darwin-Bali sector saturated by Jetstar’s daily flight schedule, operating with an Airbus had created a situation where full-service Garuda could not effectively compete. Meanwhile, Garuda announced that effective this month it will commence a daily service between Bali and Kupang, the latest addition in the national carrier’s “look eastward” program following the launch of its flights between Bali and Lombok last month. Bucking the worldwide trend of shrinking airlines, Garuda is opening 18 new domestic routes in 2009. The new Denpasar-Kupang route is a continuation of a Jakarta-Denpasar service and will be operated with a Boeing 737 aircraft on the following schedule: • DPS-KOE GA438 DEPT 13:35 ARR 15:05 • KOE-DPS GA439 DEPT 15:45 ARR 17:20. courtesy: www.balidiscovery.com

CELEBRATED IN SIMPLICITY Melia Purosani celebrated its 14th anniversary in April. Various side events led the day including social activities at the TK PKK 98 Giriloyo kindergarten and origami courses in the Imogiri area. This year’s celebrations were carried out in simplicity. Tumpeng rice making competitions were joined by 8 hotel departments: Sales & Marketing, Food & Beverage Service, Finance, Housekeeping, Security, Laundry, Engineering and Front Office. “Star of The Month” best employee awards were also given, along with lucky draws and traditional keroncong music entertainment from Laras Irama of Bantul, Yogyakarta.

Melia Purosani Yogyakarta Jl. Suryotomo 31, Yogyakarta (0274) 589521; www.meliajogja.com

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EVOKING AND DRAMATIC Aston International has also announced the launch of the Quest Hotel brand in Indonesia. The Quest Hotel concept is a 3 star hotel product developed by Aston International, designed to give guests an affordable lifestyle experience. Interiors are welcoming and eye catching – achieved with distinctive designs of loose furniture – altogether creating a fun, fresh, and friendly atmosphere. Purple and shades of indigo are combined to create an evoking and dramatic look throughout the Quest Hotels. With standard room sizes approximately 23-25 sqm, Quest Hotels are designed to meet guest’s needs with comfortable Queen or twin beds, compact workspaces equipped with high speed wireless internet access in the rooms and throughout the property, mini bar, a ‘wall-hung’ 29” LCD TV, and attractive bathrooms. Two Quest hotels are soon to open in the cities of Palembang and Semarang and additional hotels are under development in Kuta (Bali) and Kemayoran (Jakarta). www.aston-international.com

BALI&BEYOND

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COMMUNITYCALENDAR

REFLECTION

PEACE & LOVE Ganesha Gallery presents the exhibition of art “Peace & Love” by artist I Made Arya Dwita Dedok through May 11. Gallery hours are 9 am - 6 pm. The Balinese artist I Made Arya Dwita Dedok embarked in art at the age of 12 in 1983 when he won a children’s painting exhibition at the Bali Hyatt Hotel in Sanur. Fifteen years later he would graduate from Indonesia’s top art academy (ISI) as a promising young printmaker artist. The multi-talented Dedok worked simultaneously in several fields including photography, graphic design, printmaking, painting and cartoons, winning several prizes in each category. The connection between these other disciplines and his whimsical but edgy prints is easy to see. Much inspired by graffiti, he combines the spontaneity of street art with the technical discipline of a fine artist. Dedok’s talents have earned him praise beyond Bali and Indonesia. In 2008 he won the Freeman Foundation art fellowship at the prestigious Vermont Studio Center, in Johnson, Vermont, USA. More prizes and awards certainly wait in the future as he continues to champion the art of print making, which has only recently caught the attention of Indonesian collectors and curators.

Ganesha Gallery, Four Seasons Resort Bali at Jimbaran Bay (0361) 701-010; www.fourseasons.com/jimbaranbay

An Easter Sunday Celebration presents a visual art group exhibition through “Reflection”, featuring the works of Made Suparta Wijaya, Made Somadita, I Nyoman Suarnata, and Em Sumba. The exhibition runs from May 10-24 and is curated by Arif Bagus Prasetyo. This exhibition will show artwork from each artist, born from the ‘honesty’ in their mission to pass on their message in their art. For them to be honest in art is the most important thing, whether in the process or in the final product of the artwork itself.

“Reflection” has been chosen to show the description of the honest soul of each artist.

They wish to give support to the movement of art, particularly in Bali.

Hanna Artspace, Jalan Raya Pengosekan, Ubud, 081-797-308-98 hannaartspace@yahoo.co.id

SCRATCHES AND LINES The agenda at Ganesha Gallery continues with works by Widi S. Martodiharjo through “Scratches and Lines” from May 14 to June 8. Central Javanese by ethnicity, Widi S. Martodiharjo was born and raised in the bustling hill city of Bandung, once nicknamed the ‘Paris of Java’. There he would study fine arts and design at the Pasundan University. Martodiharjo’s career would begin as a photographer of jewelry and small objects during the day and a graphic designer at night, when he would create layouts and illustrations for a variety of publications. In the footsteps of Javanese mystics following a ‘calling’, Martodiharjo moved to Bali in 2005 and went into a period of isolation during which time he experimented incessantly, making hundreds of drawings because he felt the art was under-appreciated in Indonesia. In particular, he was obsessed with the concept and function of the line in art, expressed in his enigmatic observation that “all lines have meaning and lead somewhere.” The result of this period was a series of fantastic drawings of all sizes. Notably he limited himself to simple materials – brown paper, ballpoint pens, common pencils supplemented occasionally by a graphic ink pen and acrylic paint. The work shows a clear evolution from natural and anthropomorphic forms to an increasing penchant for abstract, almost mechanical ‘plants’. According to the artist the uniting theme of all his work is the relationship between “God, Man and Nature”. He also speaks of himself as someone “Waiting for Godot” in reference to the absurd play by Samuel Beckett. Since 2008 Martodiharjo has settled in Ubud, where he continues his unique exploration while he waits for the coming of Godot.

Ganesha Gallery, Four Seasons Resort Bali at Jimbaran Bay (0361) 701-010; www.fourseasons.com/jimbaranbay 58

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COMMUNITYCALENDAR

MEANWHILE... THIS MONTH

GET MY FRENCH? WATCH! The French Movie Festival continues, now in its 14th year.

Nicholas Saputra and Marsha Timothy, two young and talented actors, are involved and have become icons of the Festival. Nicholas was born in Jakarta on February 24, 1984. His first debut in the movie Ada Apa Dengan Cinta (What’s with love) put him up as one of the most favourite talented young actors. Marsha started her career starring in commercials and television series, and her movie debut was in Ekspedisi Madewa. The Festival in Bali is held by the Alliance Française Denpasar foundation in cooperation with the French Embassy in Jakarta and Studio 21. Festival tickets are once again free this year, which will take place on May 9-10 at the Galeria 21 in Kuta. The free tickets are up for grabs at Alliance Française through May 8, and at Studio 21 on May 9 and 10.

May 10 13.00 15.00 17.00 19.00

Jean de la Fontaine, le défi La tête de maman Ceux qui restent 13 m2 Tout est pardonné

La tête de maman Jean de la Fontaine, le défi Ceux qui restent 13 m2

Alliance Française de Denpasar, Jl. Raya Puputan I, no. 13A, Renon, Denpasar, (0361) 234-143 www.afdenpasar.org; www.sinema-perancis.com

BODY SIGN SESSION A visual art exhibition by Ida Bagus Putu Purwa presents new paintings and installations. After his successful solo exhibition debut in Jakarta last year, Purwa extends his creative exploration on the discourse of the body. His new artworks explore transdimensional relations between body-in-motion, signs and sensation. Curated by Arif Bagus Prasetyo, the exhibition will open on Thursday, May 7 at the Tonyraka Art Gallery. The exhibition will be open for viewing until May 28, daily from 9 am to 5 pm.

Tony Raka Art Gallery, Jl. Raya Mas no. 86, Mas, Ubud (0361) 781-6785; www.tonyrakaartgallery.com 60

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May 12 International Nurses Day (Non-UN) International Council of Nurses (ICN) since 1965.

Commemorated internationally

Liberation of West Papua National commemoration

May 15 International Day of Families Commemorated internationally

May 2 National Education Day National observance Tumpek Krulut - Day of homage to ceremonial musical instruments, masks, and dance costumes.

Balinese Hindu observance May 3 World Press Freedom Day Commemorated internationally, recognized by UNESCO May 4 World Laughter Day Commemorated internationally International Firefighters’ Day Commemorated internationally May 5 World Asthma Day The first Tuesday of May Commemorated internationally

Show times: May 9 13.00 15.00 17.00 19.00 21.00

May 1 International Labor Day, Worker’s Day or May Day Commemorated internationally, except in the United States and Canada

MAY 2009

May 6 Buda Cemeng Merakih Day of Blessing for Money and devotion to god Bhatara Rambut Sedana Balinese Hindu observance May 8 World Red Cross Day, or Henri Dunant Day Commemorated internationally May 8-9 Remembrance and Reconciliation for Those Who Lost Their Lives during the Second World War International observance recognized by UN May 9 Vesak, or Waisak 2553 Day of Homage to Buddha Buddhist Observance Purnama Jiyestha – Eleventh Full Moon Balinese Hindu observance May 10 World Fair Trade Day Commemorated internationally Pangea Day Commemorated internationally Mother’s Day, Second Sunday in May North America

May 17 World Telecommunication Day Telecommunication Union (ITU) in Paris on May 17, 1865 Commemorated internationally May 19 Indonesian Handicapped Veteran Corps Day National observance May 20 National Resurrection Day Commemorated nationally May 21 National Book Day Commemorated nationally World Day for Cultural Diversity for Dialogue and Development Commemorated internationally Recognized by UNESCO Reformation Commemorative Day National observance May 22 International Day for Biological Diversity Commemorated internationally Recognized by the UN May 23 Tilem Jiyestha Eleventh New Moon Balinese Hindu observance May 25 African Liberation Day Commemorated internationally May 29 International Day of United Nations Peacekeepers Commemorated internationally Recognized by the UN National Senior Citizen’s Day Commemorated nationally May 31 World No-Tobacco Day Commemorated internationally Recognized by the World Health Organization (WHO)

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SEE&SEEN

BEFORE THE SILENCE...

Saka 1931 New Year Eve was highlighted by an ogoh-ogoh parade, despite the local government’s advise that it not be held this year due to the 2009 elections. But a grand parade was held on March 25 in the Kuta area that paraded a variety of large demonic ogoh-ogoh effigies through the main streets. The yearly parade has become among the big attractions for locals and visitors alike, up to the one-of-a-kind Nyepi celebration in Bali the following day.

Melasti pilgrimages and the Tawur Agung Kesanga rituals took place days prior to the Eve.

STICK ‘EM UP! The Mekotekan tradition in the Munggu village of the Mengwi district in the Badung regency saw thousands of young men in a friendly ‘battle of sticks’ that is regularly held on the day of Kuningan on March 28. There were also parades throughout the village celebrating the victory of ancient Mengwi kingdom warriors, complete with battle attire and weapons. The last event involved at least 2,500 ‘warriors’. Two large groups brandished 3-meter long sticks or ‘spears’ and ‘battled’ on a number of inter-village roads. Morning prayers at the Pura Puseh Munggu temple were held then the acitivies commenced at 1pm and continued with cultural parades that lasted until sunset.

PUSH ME PULL YOU The day after Nyepi saw the omed-omedan ritual in the village of Sesetan in Denpasar. Around 200 Banjar Kaja teenage boys and girls partook in a centuries old, deliberately wet, hugging and kissing street festival on March 27. Before the omed-medan, prayers took place at the Bale Banjar meeting hall. Spectators from afar crowded arounf to witness one of this year’s most unique events.

The grand Panca Wali Krama Ceremony saw its peak celebration between March 25 and April 9 at the Besakih temple, attracting hundreds (thousands on weekends) of Balinese Hindus in voluntary work and prayer in this once-a-decade ceremony. Months of preparation and hundreds of voluntary workers from carpenters, offering makers, musicians and temple cleaners were involved leading up to the peak days. Many offices, banks, factories, schools, universities and private establishments organized their Hindu staff in weekend collective voluntary blitzes, taking their chance tousually pray at their respective clan temples within the Besakih temple complex.

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PHOTOS BY NOVENA ASSEN

THE GRAND DECADE

HOTELHIGHLIGHTS HIGHLIGHT: The Mentari Sanur Hotel is tucked away down a small side street just off Jalan Hangtuah at the northern end off Sanur, Bali’s most enchanted village. Shaded by frangipani trees, this two-storey 28 rooms hotel offers the ideal combination of modern facilities and a charming Balinese atmosphere with family style hospitality and service.

FACILITIES: A large luxury private swimming pool is the right place for you to pamper your self and relax in a privacy atmosphere under a warm tropical sun.

Tunjung Restaurant offers a combination of continental and traditional Balinese dining, cozy lounge is the area where you can sit down, relax, and bar will serves you varieties of drinks.

Free exclusive broadband internet access.

LOCATION: Located in a tranquil coastal village of Sanur make the Mentari Sanur Hotel is situated in an ideal location with immediate access to the main highway and just minutes from many great tourist activities and attraction, 25 minutes drive to the Ngurah Rai International Airport, 20 minutes drive to Kuta Beach, 5 minutes drive to the Sanur shopping area, 10 minutes drive to Denpasar and 30 minutes to Ubud.

CONTACT: Jl. Hangtuah III No.3, Sanur, Telp: (0361) 283286; Fax.(0361)283017 Email: sales@mentarisanur.com; Website: www.mentarisanur.com

HIGHLIGHTS: The Maxi Hotel & Spa is situated in the heart of Bali’s shopping and nightlife district. Centrally located, the property offers an ideal base for visitors wishing to explore Bali while keeping all the island’s best shops, bars, restaurants and beaches within easy walking distance.

FACILITIES: Hotel facilities and services include restaurant, bar, meeting room, massage and spa, room service, swimming pool with Jacuzzi, children’s pool, laundry and dry cleaning service, airport pickup and transfer, snack bar, tour desk, doctor on call, free car park, baby sitter upon request, broadband internet connection, major credit cards accepted, individually controlled air-conditioning, local and IDD telephone, satellite TV, daily mineral water, private bathroom with bathtub and shower, mini bar, personal electronic safe deposit, tea & coffee maker. The balcony overlooking the swimming pool and landscaped tropical garden offers a private area for relaxing.

LOCATION: The hotel is less than 15 minutes from Ngurah Rai International Airport; 20 minutes drive to Denpasar, 30 minutes from Sanur, Nusa Dua and within 45 minutes drive to the artistic centre of Ubud and about 350 meters from Bali’s famous Kuta Beach.

CONTACTS: Jl. Legian 83A, Legian, Tel: (0361) 754-082, Fax. (0361) 750-792 E-mail: info@maxi-hotel.com; Website: www.maxi-hotel.com

HIGHLIGHTS: Asia’s first Hard Rock Hotel, covering a prime three hectares site at the heart of Bali’s entertainment and shopping district. This is the ultimate theme vacation resort with Hard Rock’s signature of limitless energy, unparalleled creativity and quality service - the perfect place to Rest, Relax & Rock!

FACILITIES: Hard Rock Hotel features 418 tribute rooms and luxury suites, alongside six cutting edge food and beverage outlets. A paradise for couples, families and singles.

LOCATION: Situated at Bali’s famous shopping and entertainment district, Kuta, just 10 minutes drive from Bali airport, you’ll find that the Hard Rock Hotel offers more than just comfortable accommodation, it also blends tropical majesty with today’s modern luxury.

CONTACTS: Jl. Pantai, Banjar Pandai Mas, Kuta. Tel: (0361) 761-869 E-mail: rock@hardrockhotels.net; Website: www.hardrockhotels.net

HIGHLIGHTS: J Boutique Hotel is an ideal place for business, stay and recreation. It offers an elegant property and modern comfort facilities combined with a high standard of service.

FACILITIES: 88 guest rooms comprise of business, executive, business deluxe and J suite room, each featuring individually airconditioning, IDD telephone, satellite television, shower, mini bar, coffee/tea maker, hair dryer, 24-hour room service, doctor on call, airport pickup and transfer service, same day laundry and dry cleaning, safety box, mail service, free WiFi internet access, major credit cards accepted. And choices of facilities for pleasant stay such as Bellagio Restaurant, J Cuvee Wine Shop & Lounge, VIP room, Jatra Tour & Travel, meeting rooms, spa and aromatherapy, swimming pool with Jacuzzi, shop and gallery.

LOCATION: Strategically located on Jalan Kartika Plaza, Kuta, and only a 5-minute drive from Ngurah Rai International Airport, with the Discovery Shopping Mall just a walking distance away.

CONTACTS: Jl. Kartika Plaza no. 20, Kuta, Tel: (0361) 761-888, Fax: (0361) 755-352/753-529 Email: info@jboutiquehotel.com; Website: www.jboutiquehotel.com

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SEE&SEEN

SPORTS & CULTURE The Bali Hotels Association (BHA) Sport & Cultural Carnival 2009 was held with a Saturday 7K Run ‘n Fun Walk on April 18 organized by the Meliá Bali Villas & Spa Resort. The event was opened by BHA Chairman Robert Lagerway, and officially marked the yearly Carnival, this year closing in November. More than 800 hotel staff joined in the 7K run and 5K fun walk. Door prizes waited at the finish line at the Nusa Dua Amphitheater. The Men’s 7K winners were Jibrel from Discovery Kartika Plaza, Komang Mertayasa from Kayumanis Private Villa, and Martin Prakoso from Discovery Kartika Plaza. Women’s 7K winners were Ni Wayan Sriani from Ayana Resort, Liv Gusing from Amandari, and Carla from The Legian. Cultural competitions will coincide with the Bali Arts Festival on June 13 2009. Sports event through October will include Basketball, Badminton, Table Tennis, Chess, Tennis, Soccer, Bowling, Billyards and Volleyball. The Nusa Dua Fiesta in October will also include a Fruit Carving contest.

Meliâ Bali Villas & Spa Resort, Nusa Dua, (0361) 771-510, www.meliabali.com

FRESH IMAGE, MANAGEMENT Ayana Resort & Spa celebrated its rebirth in April with a new management team representing the world’s top hoteliers. The grand opening was an opportunity for guests to meet General Manager Charles de Foucault as well as executives of the newly-appointed management company, West Paces Hotel Group, founded by Horst Schulze, former president of The Ritz-Carlton Group and founding member of The Ritz-Carlton Hotel Company. Pictured above is Rudy Suliawan, Managing Partner, P.T. Karang Mas Sejahtera and Horst Schulze, founder of the West Paces Hotel Group, surrounded by traditional Balinese dancers at the Grand Launch.

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GOOD WORK Meliá Bali was recently recognized by the Badung Regent for its excellent work environment and relations between management, unions and employees. One of its latest campaigns was to inform each of its employees on the collective labor agreement signed for 20072008 so that they could better understand their rights and obligations, as well as monthly lunches organized amongst employees and management to create closer working relationships and better understanding to further improve the quality of service offered by the resort.

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SUITE COCKTAIL The Laguna Resort & Spa hosted a cocktail party at its Imperial Suite on Friday April 17, inviting media and travel agents to further familiarize themselves and get acquainted with the resort management and new staff members. Among its newly introduced posts and hosts of the evening included Jacinta Townsend (Director of Marketing), Douglas Ariza Giammaria (Hotel Manager), and Mia Darmi (Spa Manager). Guests, mostly representing the island’s travel agents, were also reintroduced to the Imperial Suite, which features two bedrooms, direct private lagoon access from its large terrace, and extravagantly spacious living and dining areas.

The Laguna Resort & Spa, Nusa Dua, Bali, (0361) 771-327; luxurycollection.com/bali

FREEDOM & BEAUTY Kamandalu Resort & Spa hosted 42 Balinese sculptors of the Bali Indonesia Sculptor Association (B.I.A.S.A.) in a collaborative exhibition themed ‘Freedom & Beauty’. The best pieces created in 2009 from the 42 sculptors spanning three generations were displayed at the resort’s Bale Seni through April. Freedom & Beauty showcased the artists’ motivation in illustrating their creative ideas in appreciation of the rich art and culture, as well as a tribute to the holy month with the celebrations of Galungan, Kuningan and Nyepi.

Kamandalu Resort and Spa, Jalan Tegallalang, Banjar Nagi, Ubud, (0361) 975-825 www.kamandaluresort.com

CHEERFUL EASTER Easter at the InterContinental Bali Resort, with its signature ‘Alice in Wonderland Tea Party’ on the Easter weekend, included the lovely Alice accompanied by all her storybook friends in a lavish high-tea time with many sweet treats. It was a fun afternoon of games and frivolity enhanced by the antics of the Mad Hatter, Queen of Hearts, White Rabbit, the Tweedle Twins and a whole cast of other characters.

The Sunday morning Easter Egg Hunt was also a huge success, enabling the parents to enjoy a leisurely breakfast. The team from Planet Trekkers supervised the young ones as they searched for goodies that had been carefully hidden within the Resort’s gardens. Pictured are the children enjoying food and drinks accompanied by Alice and the storybook characters.

InterContinental Bali Resort, Jalan Uluwatu 45, Jimbaran, (0361) 701-888 66

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OPEN GRAIN Memorandum of Understanding (MOU) between the Bali International Convention Centre (BICC) and the Global Research and Intelligence Network (GRAIN) was signed in Bali on April 3, in an effort to enhance Indonesia’s bidding efforts to secure a larger share of conference and convention business. GRAIN is launching four International Centers for Industry Development (ICID) offices in Bali, Malaysia, the Middle East and the U.S.A. The Bali ICID office will be a lead generator for conferences and conventions in Bali via their 14 country network. GRAIN, www. researchandintelligence.com

ROCK HARD SPIRIT Hard Rock Hotel Bali hosted American singer and songwriter Michael Franti on April 14 at Centerstage to launch the 2nd annual Bali Spirit Festival, followed by a guitar signing. Over 100 international and local performers from the world of music, dance and yoga participated in this event from April 28 to May 3.

Hard Rock Hotel Bali, (0361) 761-869

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SKAL INTERNATIONAL BALI An International Association of Travel and Tourism Professionals Doing Business Among Friends

GRAND HYATT BALI – A WONDERFUL EXPERIENCE IN A UNIQUE VENUE April 3 - The team at the Grand Hyatt pulled out all the stops to create a unique and relaxed lunch venue in the foyer and courtyard gardens of the Grand Ballroom. Everything was perfect, from the dedicated parking just beyond the security check to a garden party atmosphere for the welcome drinks, and a special garden set-up for the post lunch cigar smokers. The foyer proved a luxurious and surprisingly intimate venue for a delicious lunch with cured salmon salad, scallop on avocado pulp, prawns wrapped in rice paper, followed by roasted chicken breast and a bitter chocolate hazelnut praline mousse topped with raspberry curd; mmm, mmm, mmmh. “Well done” Philippe Mauron and the Grand Hyatt team.

MONTHLY LUNCHES AND EVENTS AT THE BEST VENUES IN BALI The 150 members of Skal Bali meet every month for a great meal, fellowship, fun, networking and an opportunity to bond and get to know industry colleagues.

May 1: BBQ Evening at Hard Rock Hotel Sand Island Pool. A gathering for Skalleagues, their families and friends June 5: Lunch at Novotel Nusa Dua Hotel & Residences

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ABOUT SKAL AND SKAL BALI Skal International, founded in Paris in 1934, is the largest travel and tourism organization in the world counting over 20,000 members in 500 clubs in over 90 countries.

Members are leading tourism industry professionals and management from hotels, transportation, tour operators, travel agencies, marine and cruise operators, attractions, restaurants, golf courses, spas and travel and tourism media.

Skal Bali is the biggest club in Southeast Asia and second fastest growing club worldwide.

For information or reservations contact Gede Juwena at our secretariat at (0361) 784 0212 or at skalbali@dps.centrin.net.id

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ACCOMMODATION

during these tours are sometimes beyond description. BaliQuad (using ATV’s

VILLA DIANA BALI – luxurious and exclusive place, good value for money. 3

/ quad bikes) and BaliBuggy (using off-road cars) are located in different

villas with 3 bed rooms each, private swimming pool and garage, kitchenete,

locations which offer different tracks. A special “2-in-1 adventure” can be

shower and bath tub, hot/cold running water. Jl. Kresna, Ulun Tanjung, Legian,

arranged, combining both off-road tours in one great adventurous day.

Kuta. Tel: 754-038, 744-1282, 745-1600; Fax: 751-510

BaliQuad, Jl. Wirasatya VI No.9X, Suwung Kangin, Denpasar, Tel: 720-766;

E-mail: info@dianagrouphotel.com; www.dianagrouphotel.com

Fax: 727-956 www.baliquad.com; www.balibuggy.com

ACTION & ATTRACTION

INTERNATIONAL NEWSPAPERS BALI ORCHID GARDEN – Enjoy the

NEWSPAPER DIRECT – Bali widest range of daily newspapers from anywhere

beauty of walking among hundreds of

of the world. Chose from 400 titles of 65 countries, daily, weekly or as you like

beautiful and rare orchids, Heliconia,

it. This service delivers you the complete edition of your hometown newspaper

Ginger and other interesting plants.

on the same day of publication to your hotel or home on Bali. Contact your

A peaceful, natural and safe haven

hotel or villa reception or call/email them

close to the city. Enjoy a drink and find

for the selection and pricelist 0361 769414

unique souvenirs. Tel: 466-010, Fax:

/ info@newspaperdirect-bali.com

466-011; www.baliorchidgarden.com; E-mail: info@baliorchidgarden.com

TOURS & TRAVEL ADVENTURE INDONESIA – JUNGLE SURVIVAL TRAINING & FUN JUNGLE

BALI QUAD DISCOVERY TOURS - The Bali Quad and Bali Buggy tours

WAR, Student Field Trip, Orangutan & Dayak, Explore Irian Jaya Tribes, Komodo

both bring you to a part of Bali where you still can find old traditions alive.

& Flores Adventure, Toraja Tour. BALI: Ruko Wana Segara 12A, Tel: (0361) 750

Drive yourself with a specially designed off-road vehicle that copes with all

971, 750 964. JAKARTA: Wisma 31 kemang, 3rd floor tel: (021) 7182250/56,

kinds of terrain, through an authentic part of the island, passing rice fields,

Email: info@adventureindonesia.com

crossing jungles and driving through a traditional Balinese village. The views

www.adventureindonesia.com

subscribe NOW! ISLANDS UNDING 0 SURRO ER 18,00 AND OV RADISE PA F C T H E S U N . . . T H E S A N D . . . T H ECSUULR . .ET O HE ULTURE OF PARADISE AND OVER 18,000 SURROUNDING ISLANDS T FU.R F... THE THE SUR

YOND BALI &EBEYOND LI & B BA

AND... ... THE S THE SUN

Y 2009 J A N U A R NO. 104 11 VOLUME

FEBRUARY 2009 VOLUME 11 NO. 105

SCENTS MADE S SENSIBLE RANG SIGHT MA

SEWHERE IN THE CITY OF

A RECENT PERFUME MASTER

GEDO CLASS SUGGESTS THATNG YOU ELSE ; FROM THE CAN SUBSTITUTE THEED COMMON SEMARANG ON THE RUGG A RAN VALENTINE’S ROSES ANDTO SONGO HIGH MOUNT UNGA ED CHOCOLATES WITH SOMETHING N DOTT SLOPES OF ATOW G CHIN MORE SPECIAL SPRAWLIN LES...

WITH TEMP

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RESH , AF UPHILLS T YEAR CITY’S MOS TO THE CAPITAL BALIREME IS NOTDIES JUST ABOUT FIND NDEDBEAUTIFUL RE BEACHES, BEFO RECOMME YOURSELFLOVELY LAKES. REFRESHIT ALSO HAS NEW 2009!

A WHOLE STARTING BEDUGUL IS A COMPLETE TOURIST DESTINATION FULL OF ACTIVITIES

TAKE ME TO N CHINATOW BIKING TONDANO LAKE

COMPL IMENT ISSN

ARY

0216-4590

COMPLIMENTARY 9

770216

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d.co.id

www.baliandbeyond.co.id

MNS LU OM N E W & N E W S • I N F O I N D E X • M A P O F B A L I • C L A LSASSI FSI E NS 1 I FDI ECDOCL U • C JANUARY 2009 OF BALI BALI&BEYOND X • MAP FO INDE EWS • IN NEW & N

Have a copy of Bali & Beyond delivered to your home address monthly.

Name: _________________________________________________ Address: _______________________________________________ City: ___________________________________________________ Country: ___________________ Postcode: ___________________ Phone: _________________________________________________ E-mail: _________________________________________________ Payment Method by Transfer Delivery fees: Within Indonesia : Rp. 150.000/year Asia, Australia & Africa : US$ 220/year Europe & America : US$ 240/year Please settle payment to the following account: PT. Bumi Dian Kusuma, (A/C. IDR) 534.30.05458.0 Lippo Bank Cabang Kuta Graha, Kuta-Bali Fax this form and proof of transfer to (0361) 762-096 Please reconfirm your fax by calling (0361) 764-274 BALI&BEYOND

MAY 2009

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THE SUN... THE SAND... THE SURF... THE CULTURE OF PARADISE AND OVER 18,000 SURROUNDING ISLANDS

INFOINDEX AIRLINES

Tel: (0361) 285-485, Fax: 286-406 E-mail: consul @dps.centrin.net.id

■ AIRPORT OPERATOR: Tel: (0361) 751-011 ■ CATHAY PACIFIC AIRWAYS: Wisthi Sabha Building, 2nd Floor Ngurah Rai International Aiprort Call Centre: 0804-1-888888 ■ CONTINENTAL MICRONESIA: Tel: (0361) 768-358, Fax: 768-369

■ GERMANY: Jl. Pantai Karang 17, Sanur Tel: (0361) 288-535; Fax: 288-826 Email: dtkonsbali@denpasar.wasantara.net.id ■ HUNGARY: Marintur, Jl. By Pass Ngurah Rai 219, Sanur.

Tel: (0361) 287-701 Fax: 287-456 Email: cristofoli@denpasar.wasantara.net.id ■ ITALY: Lotus Enterprises Building Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai, Jimbaran Tel: (0361) 701-005 E-mail: italconsbali @italconsbali.org

■ ROYAL BRUNEI: Tel: (0361) 757-292 ■ SINGAPORE AIRLINES: Jl. I Gusti Ngurah Rai, Airport Tel: (0361) 768-388, Fax: 768-383 ■ GARUDA: Jl. Jalan Sugianyar 5 Denpasar Tel. (0361) 227-824, Fax: 226-298 24-hour access: 08071-807-807

■ JAPAN: Jl. Raya Puputan 170, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 227-628; Fax: 265-066 ■ MEXICO: PT Puri Astina Putra Building Jl. Prof. Moh. Yamin 1A, Renon Tel: (0361) 223-266 E-mail: yudhara@astinatravel.com

■ MERPATI: Jl. Melati No. 51, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 235-358 Airport Tel: (0361) 751-011, ext. 5240/5242 Hotline: Tel: (0361) 722-740, 722-741

■ NETHERLANDS: KCB Travel, Jl. Raya Kuta 127, KutaTel: (0361) 751-517, Fax: 752-777 E-mail: purwa@denpasar.wasantara.net.id

■ MANDALA AIRLINES: Komp. Plaza Kertawijaya, Jl. Diponogoro No. 98, Denpasar Reservation Call center 08041234567

■ NORWAY & DENMARK: Mimpi Resorts, Jimbaran, Tel: (0361) 701070 E-mail: mimpi@mimpi.com

■ NGURAH RAI AIRPORT: Tel/Fax: (0361) 759-761

■ SLOVAKIA: Jl.Gunung Agung 93, Denpasar 80118 Tel: (0361) 426171; Fax: 426-477 E-mail: konsulslowakbali@yahoo.com

■ THAI INTERNATIONAL: Grand Bali Beach Sanur, Tel: (0361) 288-141 ■ QATAR AIRWAYS: Discovery Kartika Plaza Hotel, South Kuta Beach Tel: (0361) 752-222; Fax: 753-788.

Wisti Sabha Building, 2nd Floor, Ngurah Rai International Aiprort, Tel: (0361) 760-274 Fax: 760-275 ■ DEPARTURE Arrive at the airport two hours prior to departure.

A Rp. 150,000 international departure tax is required. Domestic departure fee is Rp 30,000.

Residents pay an additional Rp. 2.5 million Fiscal tax for international departures, whereas holders of official tax registration (NPWP) numbers are Fiscal tax-exempt.

Ngurah Rai Intíl Airport, Tel: (0361) 751-011

CONSULATES ■ AUSTRALIA, CANADA, NEW ZEALAND: Jl. Tantular No. 32, Renon - Denpasar 80234 Tel: (0361) 241-118, Fax: 221-195 E-mail: bali.congen@dfat.gov.au www.dfat.gov.au ■ BRITAIN: Jl. Mertasari 2, Sanur, Denpasar 80227. Tel: (0361) 270-601 Fax: 270-570 E-mail: tamarin@dps.centrin.net.id ■ CZECH REPUBLIC: Jl. Pengembak 17 Sanur. Tel: (0361) 286-465, Fax: 286-408 E-mail: bali@honorary.mzv.cz ■ FRANCE: Jl. Mertasari Gg. II No. 8, Sanur

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■ SPAIN: Jl.Raya Sanggingan, Br. Lungsiakan Kedewatan, Ubud. Tel: (0361) 975-736 Fax: 975-726; E-mail: rabik@indo.net.id ■ SWEDEN & FINLAND: Jl. Segara Ayu (Segara Village Hotel) Tel: (0361) 288-407, Fax: 287-242 E-mail: segara1@denpasar.wasantara.net.id

fever, but this is not a problem in tourist areas.

Bali is non-malarial and prophylaxis is not required. Mosquito bites, cuts or abrasions easily become infected in the tropics. Treat them immediately.

Drink only bottled or boiled water. Peel fruit before eating; avoid raw vegetables except at reputable restaurants. Ice in restaurants is safe. Protect yourself from the intense equatorial sun. Use high SPF sunblock and a hat.

AIDS and sexually transmitted diseases are increasing in Indonesia. Local sex workers have multiple partners from around the world.

They are not checked for sexually transmitted diseases. Act responsibly and use condoms, available over the counter at pharmacies.

HOSPITAL ■ MEDICAL EVACUATIONS: Contact your consulate.

■ BALI INTERNATIONAL MEDICAL CENTER: Provides medical attention for emergencies and evacuations. Jl. Ngurah Rai 100X, at the Kuta-Sanur-Nusa Dua roundabout.

Tel: (0361) 761-263.

■ INTERNATIONAL SOS CLINIC: 24-hour emergency medical clinic services, medical evacuation, multilingual staff.

Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai 505X, Kuta 80361.

Tel: (0361) 710-505, Fax: 710-515.

■ RUMAH SAKIT UMUM PUSAT SANGLAH (General Hospital): Jl. Diponegoro, Sanglah, Denpasar. Tel: (0361) 227-911/15.

■ KASIH IBU HOSPITAL: (Private Hospital) 24-hour emergency traumatology unit, maternity center, complete facilities and a full list of specialists, Jl. Teuku Umar 120, Denpasar.

Tel: (0361) 223-036; Fax: 238-690 Email: marketing@kasihibu.co.id www.kasihibu.co.id

MUSEUMS

■ SWITZERLAND & AUSTRIA: Istana Kuta Galeria Blok Valet 2 No 12, Kuta Tel: (0361) 751-735, Fax: 754-457 E-mail: swisscon@telkom.net

■ ABIAN KAPAS: Tel: (0361) 227-176 East Denpasar.

■ UNITED STATES: Jl. Hayam Wuruk 188, Denpasar. Tel: (0361) 233-605 E-mail: amcobali@indosat.net.id

■ AGUNG RAI MUSEUM OF ART (ARMA): Ubud, Tel: (0361) 976-659, Fax: 974-229.

Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud, open daily 8 am-6pm.

HEALTH & MEDICAL Call an ambulance by dialing 118, but it is a lot more practical and quicker to hire a taxi.

Most hotels have on-call doctors on standby.

For “Bali Belly”, Lomotil and Imodium eliminate symptoms, but not gastro-related infections. A fever along with symptoms requires doctor-prescribed antibiotics.

Drink as much liquid as possible. Isotonic drinks under various brand names are widely available and are known to replenish body hydration and replace fluids. For discomfort, diarrhea and cramping, drink strong, hot tea; avoid fruits and spicy foods.

Some day-biting mosquitoes carry dengue

■ ANTONIO BLANCO: Tel: (0361) 975-502, 975-551, Ubud, open daily 8 am-5 pm.

■ ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM: Tel: (0361) 942-352, Pejeng. Open 8 am - 3 pm weekdays.

■ GEDONG KIRTYA HISTORICAL LIBRARY: Tel: (0362) 25141, Jl. Veteran, Singaraja. Open 7am - 3pm Monday - Thursday, until Fridaynoon, closed on weekends.

■ GALLERY SENIWATI: Jl. Ubud Raya, Gianyar. Tel: (0361) 975-485 ■ MUSEUM BALI: Tel: (0361) 235-059, 222-680, Jl. Let. Kol Wisnu, Denpasar.

■ MUSEUM LE MAYEUR: Tel: (0361) 286-164, Jl. Hang Tuah, Sanur.

Open 8 am - 2 pm, Tuesday - Sunday.

■ MUSEUM MANUSA YADNYA: Mengwi, open daily, but often unattended.

■ MUSEUM NEKA: Tel: (0361) 975-074, 975-034, Jl. Raya Campuan, Ubud open daily 9 am - 5 pm.

■ MUSEUM PURI LUKISAN: Tel: (0361) 975-136, 971-159, Jl. Raya Ubud Ubud, www.mpl-ubud.com ■ MUSEUM RUDANA: Tel: (0361) 975-779, 976-479, Peliatan, Ubud.

■ MUSEUM SUBAK: Tel: (0361) 810-315, Jl. Raya Kediri, Desa Sanggulan, Tabanan.

TELECOMMUNICATIONS ■ CELLULAR SERVICES Indonesia applies GSM (Global Services for Mobiles). You can purchase prepaid calling cards at lower cost than calling on your home card. Major Service Providers are Telkomsel, Satelindo, Pro XL and Indosat. Look for kiosks and outlet signs or banners with product variants and brand markings.

■ TELKOMSEL The major GSM provider, Telkomsel, is reputed to have the widest national coverage area, minimizing connection and signal relay inconvenience.

Graha Telkomsel, Jl. Diponegoro 134 Denpasar. Tel: (0361) 228-811.

TOURIST INFORMATION ■ INTEGRATED TOURISM INFORMATION CENTER (ITIC) A one-stop tourist information complex of ten provinces in Indonesia comprising Bali, Lampung, Jakarta, Banten, West Java, Central Java, East Java, Jogjakarta.

Jl. Raya Kuta 2, Kuta, 80361 Tel: (0361) 766-188 ■ NGURAH RAI INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT: Tel: (0361) 751-011 ■ BADUNG GOVERNMENT TOURISM OFFICE: Jl. Kuta Raya 2, Kuta Tel: (0361) 756-175/76 ■ BALI GOVERNMENT TOURISM OFFICE: Jl. Supratman, Niti Mandala, Renon, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 222-387 ■ SINGARAJA TOURIST INFORMATION OFFICE: Jl. Veteran 23, Singaraja Tel: (0362) 251-41 ■ UBUD TOURIST INFORMATION SERVICE: Jl. Raya Ubud, Gianyar Tel: (0361) 96-285, 973-285; 8 am - 9 pm.

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