BelGuest Fall/Winter 2019

Belgrade & Serbia Visitors’ Magazine

Volume 23, FALL/WINTER 2019/2020

BELGRADE & NOVI SAD EVENTS & SIGHTSEEING HEALTH AND WELLNESS TOURISM WHAT TO TAKE WITH YOU FROM SERBIA? #SEESERBIA: KRAGUJEVAC, SOKOBANJA, RTANJ & MUCH MORE TITO’S BLUE TRAIN RIDES AGAIN KOTOR & TIVAT WINTER EVENTS

free copy

IN THIS ISSUE/IZ SADRŽAJA 2

2

A R T E X I B I T I O N O F T H E S E R B I A N O R T H O D OX C H U R C H THE TREASURY HAS OPENED UP RIZNICA SE OTVORILA

8

8

B I R T H D AY O F T H E M U S E U M O F A P P L I E D A R T S HISTORY WRITTEN BY SILK ISTORIJA PISANA SVILOM

13

13

A T H E M AT I C T H E AT R I C A L P I E C E BE A GUEST AT SERBIAN SLAVA BUDI GOST NA SRPSKOJ SLAVI

26

26

I N T E R V I E W – B O J A N PAV LO V I Ć BOTH THE FIRST AND THE FOURTH I PRVI I ČETVRTI

32

32

CITY BREAK NOVI SAD FOR BEGINNERS AND THE KNOWLEDGEABLE ZA POČETNIKE I UPUĆENE

44

P H OTO E D I TO R I A L OLD CRAFTS AND SOUVENIRS OF SERBIA STARI ZANATI I SUVENIRI SRBIJE

60

WELLNESS WINTER IN SOKOBANJA BATHING IN WATER AND IN THE AIR KUPKE U VODI I VAZDUHU

66

H OT E L R A M O N D A O F R TA N J A PHENIX UNDERNEATH THE PYRAMID FENIKS POD PIRAMIDOM

74

BELGRADE INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS BEOGRADSKE MEĐUNARODNE ŠKOLE

82

KOTOR & TIVAT WINTER EVENTS ZIMSKI DOGAĐAJI U KOTORU I TIVTU

44

60

66

82

Belgrade&Serbia Visitors’ Magazine Publisher - Izdavač: Izdavačko društvo PONT d.o.o., Beograd Kralja Milutina 46, Beograd mob tel. 063/84 97 582 e-mail: redakcija@belguest.rs www.belguest.rs www.facebook.com/belguestmagazine Partner National Tourism Organization of Serbia Čika Ljubina 8, Beograd For publisher - Za izdavača: Milena Mihaljčić, direktor Editor-in-chief - Glavni i odgovorni urednik: Milena Mihaljčić Web edition editor - Urednik web izdanja Dragana Barjaktarević Contributors - Saradnici: Rozana Sazdić, Gordana Stojaković, Dragana Barjaktarević, Jelena Tasić, Nataša Drulović, Tihana Putin, Slavica Lončar Photographs- Fotografije: Rozana Sazdić, Dragan Bosnić, Svetlana Dingarac, BelGuest Photo Archive, Tourist Organization of Belgrade Photo Archive, National Tourism Organization of Serbia Photo Archive, Tourist Organization of Novi Sad Photo Archive, Tourist Organization of Sokobanja Photo Archive Translation - Prevod: Slobodan Rakić, Euro-Translations Agency Beograd Marketing: Pont, Vlada Marković i R vodič Design & Layout- Dizajn i prelom: Lidija Taranović, Pozitiv MVP Front Page - Naslovna strana: The boots worn by Tartar cavalry, which were popular, especially in French vanguard fashion. They are known as boots á la Russian. It is not known who brought them to Serbia.

Russia, Kazan, the end of the 19th-the beginning of the 20th century. Photo: Dragana Barjaktarević Print - Štampa: Birograf, Zemun BelGuest quarterly is registered with the Republic of Serbia media registry no: 651-03-168/2000-03 BelGuest magazin upisan je u registar glasila Republike Srbije pod brojem: 651-03-168/2000-03 © copyright: Pont CIP - Katalogizacija u publikaciji Narodna biblioteka Srbije, Beograd, 338.4 BelGuest : Belgrade & Serbia Visitors’ Magazine / editor-in-chief Milena Mihaljčić. - 2001, winter/spring - Beograd : Pont, 2001(Beograd : Službeni glasnik). - 28 cm Dostupno i na: http://www.belguest.rs. Tromesečno. - Sa specijalnim izdanjem 2010: Događaji Beograda ISSN 1451-6446 = Bel Guest COBISS.SR-ID 71794956

Eight Centuries of Art Under the Auspices of the Serbian Orthodox Church

The Treasury Has Opened Up The exhibition entitled “Eight Centuries of Art Under the Auspices of the Serbian Orthodox Church” is one of the main “cultural themes” this year. When visits are concerned, it has surpassed all expectations. Its central part is the setting of handwritten books, which “as a symbol of knowledge and enlightenment have for centuries been used to convey the Word of God.”

The Royal Doors of the Metropolitan Antonije of Herzegovina, Monastery of Patriarchate of Peć, 16th century

Prince Lazar's festive attire, the end of the 14th century; sewn from silk brocade in the technique of double “Jacquard” weaving from the Italian town of Lucca

Throughout the year, the Serbian Orthodox Church has been celebrating the eight centuries of its autonomy, the central event being exactly this exhibition, which was thoroughly being prepared for a long time. “This setting inclusive of about 700 exhibits, of which almost half have been publicly exhibited for the first time, is aimed at making a broader public familiar with the continuity of church-artistic creative achievements through a chronological demonstration of the development of handwritten and printed books, church textile, iconography, chalices of divine service and other objects of applied art, testifying to the spirit of their builders and creators, as well as the dedication with which they have been preserved from the first Serbian Archbishop St. Sava to our days. For the first time now, it is possible to perceive the richest treasury of the Serbian people in its real splendor and full collection size. In that longlasting period, the Church not only took care about the spiritual life of its flock, but it also cherished culture and art, and took over on itself the role of the clerical authority in the times of hardship, too. A lot has been destroyed and disappeared, but there is certainly a lot of it preserved,” tells us the director of the Museum of the Serbian Orthodox Church, deacon Vladimir Radovanović.

“Apart from showing the spiritual dimension in which the Serbian church and cultural heritage were being created, the Exhibition also endeavors to present the spatial dimension pertaining to it, since the Patriarchate of Peć occupied the territory from today’s Northern Macedonia to today’s Slovakia during the 16th and the 17th centuries. That’s one amongst the reasons why the treasu of the monasteries of Visoki Dečani (High Dečani), in Kosovo and Metohija, and Krka, in today’s Croatia, are the most represented at this exhibition.”

“The Jubilee Exhibition is thematically thought out and is a natural segment of the permanent setting that, on the occasion of the jubilee, has been enriched with the exhibits that have been publicly shown for the first time. We’ve dedicated our greatest attention to the handwritten books created between the 13th and the 15th centuries, as well as the printed publications dating back in the period from the 15th to the 19th century.

Exhibiting them in this setting is all the more significant given the fact that, for the first time now, we’ve exhibited over a hundred titles of divine service in a single place, which is but one portion of our immeasurably greater literary treasure.”

“We’ve been applying all contemporary museological achievements in the protection and preservation of the objects; but, in fact, we’re receiving the heritage of the eight-centurylong tradition of preserving the objects in a treasury fashion, established by Saint Sava in the Typicon of Studenica, when he established our first treasuries – that of Hilandar and that of Studenica. Because of that, we de facto wanted to make our visitors experience this setting not as a museum, but as a church treasury that has opened up before their eyes,” concludes our collocutor.

Jelena Tasić Photo by: Museum of the Serbian Orthodox Church

Celebration of the Autonomy of the Church Eight hundred years ago, the youngest son of the sovereign Priest Stefan Nemanja Sava Nemanjić, a Holy Mount monk and the later first Serbian Archbishop and Saint, asked for and was given by the Byzantine Emperor Theodore and Manuel, the Patriarch of Constantinople, the right for the Serbian State to establish an autocephalous archiepiscopate. The first seat of the independent Serbian Church was in the monastery of Žiča. In the second half of the 13th century, the seat was relocated to the Patriarchate of Peć.

The golden era of the handwritten book: The Sermons of St. Isaac of Nineveh of the early 14th century, Monastery of Krušedol

A segment of the artistic treasure that the Serbian Orthodox Church has been collecting for the past eight centuries is also shown in the Exhibition catalogue, whose content and design do not lag behind this exceptional setting.

4 Fall/Winter 2019 /2020

BelGuest

Info-The Museum of the Serbian Orthodox Church part of the complex of the Patriarchate Court in Belgrade, which is located in the old city core opposite the Cathedral Church. The Museum is open for visitors on business days from 9 am to 4 pm.

O S A M V E KO VA U M E T N O S T I P O D O K R I L J E M S R P S K E P R AV O S L AV N E C R K V E

RIZNICA SE OTVORILA Izložba „Osam vekova umetnosti pod okriljem Srpske pravoslavne crkve“ jedna je od ovogodišnjih glavnih „kulturnh tema“. Po poseti, prevazišla je sva očekivanja. Njen centralni deo čini postavka rukopisnih knjiga, koje su „kao simbol znanja i prosvećenosti vekovima služile za prenošenje Reči Božije”.

SPC je tokom čitave godine obeležavala osam vekova samostalnosti, a centralni događaj upravo je ova, dugo i temeljno pripremana izložba.„Cilj postavke sa oko sedamsto eksponata, od kojih je gotovo polovina prvi put javno izložena, jeste da upozna širu javnost sa kontinuitetom crkveno-umetničkog stvaralaštva kroz hronološki prikaz razvoja rukopisnih i štampanih knjiga, crkvenog tekstila, ikonopisa, bogoslužbenih sasuda i drugih dela primenjene umetnosti, svedočeći o duhu njihovih ktitora i stvaralaca, kao i o posvećenosti kojom su čuvana od prvog srpskog arhiepiskopa Svetog Save do naših dana. Po prvi put se, u pravom sjaju i u punom obimu, može sagledati najbogatija riznica srpskog naroda. U tom dugom razdoblju, Crkva nije samo vodila brigu o duhovnom životu svoje pastve, već i o kulturi i umetnosti, a u teško vreme preuzimala je na sebe i ulogu svetovne vlasti. Dosta toga je uništeno i nestalo, ali svakako ima mnogo toga što je sačuvano”, kaže nam direktor Muzeja SPC, đakon Vladimir Radovanović. „Izložba nastoji da, pored duhovne, pokaže i prostornu dimenziju u kojoj je srpska crkvena i kulturna baština stvarana, jer je Pećka Patrijaršija tokom 16. i 17. veka, zauzimala prostor od današnje Severne Makedonije do današnje Slovačke. To je jedan od razloga što su na ovoj izložbi najzastupljenije riznice manastira Visoki Dečani na Kosovu i Metohiji i Krka u današnjoj Hrvatskoj.” „Jubilarna izložba je tematski osmišljena i prirodni je deo stalne postavke koja je povodom jubileja dopunjena eksponatima koji se prvi put izlažu. Najveću pažnju smo posvetili rukopisnim knjigama nastalim između 13. i 15. veka, kao i štampanim izdanjima od 15. do 19. stoleća. Njhovo izlaganje u ovoj postavci je utoliko značajnije jer smo po prvi put na jednom mestu prikazali preko sto bogoslužbenih naslova, a to je tek delić našeg neuporedivo većeg književnog blaga.” „Primenjujemo savremena muzeološka dostignuća u zaštiti i očuvanju predmeta, ali zapravo baštinimo tradiciju osmovekovnog rizničkog načina stranja o predmetima, koje je utemeljio Sveti Sava u Studeničkom tipiki, kad je osnovao naše prve riznice – Hilandarsku i Studeničku. Zbog toga smo i hteli da ovu postavku posetioci ne dožive kao muzej, nego kao crkvenu riznicu koja se pred njima otvorila”, zaključuje naš sagovornik.

King Milutin’s Shroud: the oldest preserved shroud in Serbia, a masterpiece of the Byzantine art of the late 13th century

Jelena Tasić Foto: Muzej Srpske pravoslavne crkve

BelGuest

Fall/Winter 2019/2020

5

The Suffering Mother of God with Christ (Tikhvinskaya), one of about 50 Russian Icons in the Museum of the Serbian Orthodox Church; tempera on a board from the 16th century, the metal reinforcements from the 17th century

6 Fall/Winter 2019 /2020

BelGuest

Obeleževanje crkvene samostalnosti Pre 800 godina, najmlađi sin velikog župana Stefana Nemanje, svetogorski monah Sava Nemanjić, potonji prvi srpski arhiepiskop i svetitelj, zatražio je i dobio od vazantijskog cara Teodora i carigradskog patrijarha Manojla pravo za srpsku državu da osnuje autokefalnu arhiepikopiju. Prvo sedište nezavisne Srpske crkve bio je manastir Žiča. U drugoj polovini 13. veka sedište je izmešteno u Pećku Patrijaršju.

The curtain for the Royal Doors, Monastery of Beočin, the work done by Nun Agnija

The Iconostasis Cross from the Monastery of Velika Remeta, 16th century

Deo umetničkog blaga koji je SPC sabirala proteklih osam vekova prikazan je i u katalogu izložbe koji po sadržaju i opremi ne zaostaje za ovom izvanrednom postavkom.

Info-Muzej SPC nalazi se u okviru Patrijaršijskog dvora i u Beogradu, smeštenom u starom gradskom jezgru preko puta Saborne crkve.

Muzej je otvoren za posetioce radnim danima od 9 do 16 sati. www.spc.rs

BelGuest

Fall/Winter 2019/2020

7

T h e B irt h da y E x h ibition of t h e M u se u m of A pplied A rts

History Written by Silk The Museum of Applied Arts celebrated its 69th birthday this year.

Within the ceremonial celebration of the seventh decade of its existence, the exhibition “Fashion in Modern Serbia”, whose author is Draginja Maskareli, has also been opened.

History speaks in different ways.

There are stories all around us, only if we are ready to discover them. By looking at the exhibits, reproductions and photographs at the exhibition “Fashion in Modern Serbia”, one does not only read the history of the fashion of an epoch, but also its comprehensive history. Every fashion object in the museum’s Collection of Textiles and Costumes belongs both to the personal and to the historical context, thus telling us a story of the birth of modern Serbia through details, cuts and materials.

We are presenting you a few stories from the exhibition, just to make you get a slight idea of what you may see if you pay a visit to the Museum of Applied Arts until 31st January 2020. If you may choose, then make it be on a Friday at 5:30 pm, because then you will be able to walk through the exhibition with guest guides – VIPs from the worlds of fashion, journalism, literature, theater…

8 Fall/Winter 2019 /2020

BelGuest

Reconstruction of a tailor’s shop

Fashion Schisms of the 19th Century At the very first steps of the exhibition, there are two prints totally different in the atmosphere they present, standing next to each other.

The first shows the Uprising of Takovo in 1815 and a battle for the liberation of Serbia from the Turkish rule. On the other, there is a group of excursionists at the moments of leisure nearby Belgrade in, say, 1900.

So, we can see what the citizens of Serbia did at the beginning of the century, and what they did at the end. We can also notice they are totally differently dressed. At the beginning of the 19th century, Serbia was part of the Ottoman culture, so Serbian leaders were dressed in that style, whereas at the end of the century Serbian citizens fully took over European fashion patterns. The exhibition exactly shows us how that transition happened. We can also see that the boundary is not sharp.

The elements of the Ottoman costume remained for a long time in the Serbian national costume. The citizens of the liberated Serbia forgot that that was the Turkish costume. To them, it was the clothes once worn by the heroes of the uprising who had won their autonomy.

Fabric Felt with Fingertips On touring the exhibition, halfway between the Ottoman and the European fashions, there is the “touch it” section. The museum fabrics are sensitive and preserved in special conditions; according to the authoress of the exhibition, the museum workers themselves make their best efforts to touch them as less frequently as possible. “But, since we knew it is very hard for one to resist touching fabrics, we devised this segment of the exhibition, where we can see and touch the basic natural materials used in the 19th and at the beginning of the 20th century,” explains Draginja Maskareli. The materials include silk, wool and cotton, shown through the three stages of their development – from a raw material to a fabric.

Haute Couture of Paris The second part of the exhibition is called “Modern Fashion” – the expression used by fashion theoreticians to describe the European trends of the second half of the 19th century – the period when haute couture houses started opening in Paris. It is exactly then that Serbia, too, obtained its autonomy, thus keeping pace with the era of “Modern fashion” by a combination of circumstances.

In the Museum of Applied Arts, there is one preserved original object of the Paris haute couture of 1909. It is the night dress that Elena Ristić, a granddaughter of politician and historian Jovan Ristić, wore at her engagement party. Elena was born and lived in Paris, and came to Belgrade after she had got married, taking with her her engagement dress, of which the Museum gained possession through her granddaughter Jelena Jovanović, who gave it the dress as a gift.

The dress was sewn in the famous fashion house of Redfern, established in Great Britain at the end of the 19th century. The clients of Redfern, among others, also included numerous female members of the world of fashion and aristocracy. Queen Natalija, who was considered as the fashion icon of her time, also bought there. In the period between the two world wars, however, this fashion house began to fall into ruin and is completely forgotten today.

Ottoman elements on the national urban costume

A portrait of Zora and Zorka Herstig, Milan Jovanović, Belgrade, the beginning of the 20th century

A Reconstruction of the Civil Wedding of the Beginning of the 20th Century “When the traditional Ottoman costume is concerned, we cannot clothe a male or a female citizen from head to toe; what we can only do is show some elements of how they were dressed. In the modern fashion era, we can completely reconstruct how a person was dressed on a certain occasion,” tells us Draginja Maskareli, showing us Danica Paligorić’s wedding dress, worn at the wedding ceremony with infantry major Nikola Jorgovanović in Niš in 1911.

Apart from the wedding dress, the gloves, the shoes, the album with greeting cards, even the menu of the wedding lunch, are also preserved.

The wedding dress was made at the tailor shop of the famous Berta Alkalaj. At the end of the 19th century, there were no haute couture houses in Belgrade. To fetch an haute couture object, one had to go to Paris, Vienna, Pest, or at least across the river to Zemun and Pančevo.

Domestic tailors happened to find themselves exposed to the competition, so they had to improve and broaden their assortments. Over time, they managed to meet the requests of the clients who wanted to become as close to the European examples as possible in the manner of clothing.

Very quickly, excellent tailors appeared in Belgrade, Berta Alkalaj being one of them, too. Her tailor shop at Terazije was so much popular that Sreten Stojković wrote about it in his novel Getting off the Right Path. He describes the ardent zeal in Belgrade for Berta’s designs, saying that the women who could not schedule at Berta’s were saying to their female friends that they had their dresses sewn there, although that was not the case

Danica Paligorić’s wedding dress

Disappearance of Color from Men’s Suits To end this story, a bit of men’s fashion! It can be often heard that men do not care for clothing much. An interest in fashion, of course, is an individual matter in both men and women.

There is, however, a historical explanation for the origin of that prejudice, which also refers us back in the 19th century.

The man’s suit in Serbia during the Ottoman epoch was brightly painted, ornamented with rich decorative embroidery and haberdashery. The same also works for European aristocratic fashion. Those were suits of lively colors, with decorative embroidery, lace-trimmed collars, jabots, and cuffs. Then there was the French Revolution of 1789, which took away aristocracy and its fashion. The new, simplified, dark-colored man’s suit of the 19th century was an expression of the new social value – equality, frugality, and diligence.

Although it had originated from those principles, the men’s dressing of the 19th century did not, however, set the standards of classical men’s elegance for all times.

Dragana Barjaktarević Photo: Dragana Barjaktarević and Museum of Applied Arts

10 Fall/Winter 2019 /2020

BelGuest

A portrait of architect Konstantin Jovanović, Anastas Stojanović, Belgrade, c. 1875 A redingote from Zagreb, the end of 19th century

R o đ endanska izlo ž ba M u zeja primenjene u metnosti

ISTORIJA PISANA SVILOM Muzej primenjene umetnosti ove godine proslavio je 69. rođendan. U okviru svečanog zaokruživanja sedme decenije postajanja, otvorena je i izložba „Moda u modernoj Srbiji“ čiji je autor Draginja Maskareli. storija progovara na razne načine. Svuda oko nas su priče, samo ako smo spremni da ih otkrivamo. Posmatrajući eksponate, reprodukcije i fotografije na izložbi „Moda u modernoj Srbiji“, čita se ne samo modna već sveobuhvatna istorija jedne epohe. Svaki modni predmet iz muzejske Zbirke tekstila i kostima pripada i ličnom i istorijskom kontekstu, te nam kroz detalje, krojeve, materijale, pripoveda o rađanju moderne Srbije.

Izdvajamo nekoliko priča sa izložbe, tek da naslutite šta vas čeka ako do 31. januara 2020. svratite u Muzej primenjene umetnosti. A ako možete da birate, neka to bude petak u 17:30, jer ćete tada kroz izložbu moći da prošetate sa gostujućima vodičima – javnim ličnostima iz sveta mode, novinarstva, književnosti, pozorišta...

MODNE ŠIZME 19. VEKA Na samom početku izložbe jedan do drugog stoje dva po atmosferi potpuno različita printa. Prvi prikazuje Takovski ustanak 1815. godine i borbu za oslobođenje Srbije od turske vlasti. Na drugom je grupa izletnika u trenucima dokolice u okolini Beograda oko 1900. godine. Dakle, vidimo šta građani Srbije rade na početku, a šta na kraju veka. A vidimo da su i potpuno različito obučeni. Srbija početkom 19. veka nalazi se u okviru osmanske kulture, te su srpski prvaci obučeni u ovom stilu, dok krajem veka srpsko građanstvo u potpunosti preuzima evropske modne obrasce.

Izložba nam upravo pokazuje kako se taj prelaz dogodio. I vidimo da granica nije oštra. Elementi osmanskog kostima dugo su se zadržali u nacionalnoj srpskoj nošnji.

Građani oslobođene Srbije zaboravili su da je to turski kostim. Za njih to je bilo odelo koje su nosili junaci ustanka koji su se izborili za autonomiju.

A silav belt, Ottoman Empire, the beginning of the 19th century

BelGuest

Fall/Winter 2019/2020

11

TKANINA POD PRSTIMA Na pola puta šetnje između osmanske i evropske mode, smeštena je sekcija „za dodirivanje“.

Muzejske tkanine su osetljive, čuvaju se u specijalnim uslovima i kako autorka izložbe kaže i sami muzejski radnici trude se da ih što manje dodiruju. „Ali pošto smo znali da je veoma teško odoleti dodirivanju tkanina, osmislili smo ovaj segment izložbe gde možemo videti i pipnuti osnovne prirodne materijale koji su korišćeni u 19. i početkom 20. veka“, objašnjava Draginja Maskareli. U pitanju su svila, vuna i pamuk prikazani kroz tri faze razvoja – od sirovine do tkanine.

A Redfern Fashion House dress, France, Paris, 1909

PARISKA VISOKA MODA Drugi deo izložbe nazivan je „Moderna moda“. To je izraz koji teoretičari mode koriste da opišu evropske trendove druge polovine 19. veka – period kada se u Parizu otvaraju kuće visoke mode. Baš tada i Srbija stiče autonomiju, te sticajem političkih okolnosti hvata korak s dobom „Moderne mode“.

U Muzeju primenjene umetnosti sačuvan je jedan originalni predmet pariske visoke mode iz 1909. godine. Reč je o svečanoj večernjoj haljini koju je Elena Ristić, unuka političara i istoričara Jovana Ristića, nosila na veridbenoj zabavi. Elena se rodila i živela u Parizu, a posle udaje došla je u Beograd i ponela sa sobom svoju veridbenu haljinu, koja je potom u Muzej stigla kao poklon njene unuke Jelene Jovanović.

Haljina je sašivena u čuvenoj modnoj kući Redfren koja je osnovana krajem 19. veka u Velikoj Britaniji.

Među svojom klijentelom Redfern je imao brojne pripadnice mondenskog sveta i aristokratije. Kod njega je, recimo, kupovala kraljica Natalija koja je važila za modnu ikonu svog vremena. Međutim, u periodu između dva svetska rata ova modna kuća propada i danas je potpuno zaboravljena.

REKONSTRUKCIJA GRAĐANSKE SVADBE S POČETKA 20.VEKA „Kad je u pitanju tradicionalna osmanska nošnja ne možemo kompletno da obučemo jednog građanina ili građanku, jedino možemo da prikažemo neke elemente tog odevanja. U doba moderne mode možemo u potpunosti da rekonstruišemo odevanje jedne osobe u određenoj prilici“, priča Draginja Maskareli i pokazuje na venčanicu Danice Paligorić, nošenu na venčanju sa pešadijskim majorom Nikolom Jorgovanovićem, u Nišu 1911. godine. Pored venčanice, sačuvane su i rukavice, cipele, album sa čestitkama, pa čak i jelovnik sa svadbenog ručka.

Venčanica je nastala u krojačkom salonu čuvene Berte Alkalaj. Krajem 19. veka u Beogradu nisu postojale kuće visoke mode. Po visoku modu išlo se u Pariz, Beč, Peštu ili bar preko reke u Zemun i Pančevo. Domaći krojači našli su se tako pod pritiskom konkurencije, te su morali da se usavršavaju i prošire asortiman. S vremenom uspevaju da zadovolje zahteve potrošača koji su želeli da se načinom odevanja što više približe evropskim uzorima. Beograd je vrlo brzo dobio vrhunske krojače, a među njima bila je i Berta Alkalaj. Njen salon na Terazijama bio je toliko popularan da je o njemu u svom romanu „Na stranputici“ pisao Sreten Stojković. On opisuje pomamu koja je u Beogradu vladala za Bertinim modelima, pa kaže da su žene koje nisu mogle da stignu na red kod Berte, svojim prijateljicama govorile da su šile kod nje iako to nije bio slučaj.

NESTANAK BOJE SA MUŠKIH ODELA I za kraj malo muške mode! Često može da se čuje kako se muškarci baš i ne mare mnogo za odevanje. Naravno, interesovanje za modu individualna je stvar i kod muškaraca i kod žene. Ali postoji istorijsko objašnjenje otkud potiče ta predrasuda. I za to treba da se vratimo u 19. vek.

Muško odelo u Srbiji tokom osmanske epohe bilo je živopisno, ukrašeno bogatom vezenom dekoracijom i pozamanterijom. Isto važi i za evropsku aristokratsku modu. Bila su to odela blistavih boja ukrašena vezom, čipkanim okovratnicima, žaboima i manžetnama. A onda se desila Francuska revolucija 1789. godine i odnela aristokratiju i njenu modu. Novo, pojednostavljeno, tamno muško odelo 19. veka izražava nove društvene vrednosti – jednakost, štedljivost, marljivost. Premda je poteklo iz tih načela, muško odevanje 19. veka ipak je postavilo standarde klasične muške elegancije za sva vremena.

Dragana Barjaktarević Foto: Dragana Barjaktarević i Muzej primenjene umetnosti

12 Fall/Winter 2019 /2020

BelGuest

A dress, Principality of Serbia, c. 1870

A T h e m at i c T h e at r i c a l P i e c e o f T h e B e l g r a d e C i t y M u s e u m

Be a Guest at Serbian Slava

As one of the rare unterminated traditions of the Serbian nation, the so-called Krsna Slava (a holiday celebrated by the Orthodox Serbian family in honor of its Patron Saint), has been inscribed on the UNESCO Representative Intangible Cultural Heritage List since 2014. Since August this year, a theatrical piece has been performed as part of Belgrade’s regular tourist programs in the Residence of Princess Ljubica, vividly presenting visitors how a Serbian Slava is celebrated.

We do not set off on journeys to other geographic latitudes and longitudes to experience the same thing we have at home. We travel to explore new cultures, tastes and customs. And, in order to gain a true experience of some city, it is not enough to consistently check a list of must-see attractions.

So, for example, for a traveler to feel the heart and soul of Belgrade, somewhere in-between Kalemegdan Park and Skadarlija, he should also have a snack at the Delicatessen Monday event at Cultural Center "GRAD", buy himself a ticket at the New Year’s Čumić Raffle or, even more intimately – be a guest at a Serbian Slava. But what are the chances of something like that? Well, quite certain. It is enough for him to happen to be in Belgrade on Sundays at 2 pm. If, at that time, he is heading for the Residence of Princess Ljubica, he will be welcomed at the door by the host of the Slava, with consecrated wheat and wine in his hands, and the accompanying toast: May we always celebrate Slava, may we never forget Slava, may we always meet in happiness and joy, may we always remember each other! Cheers!

BelGuest

Fall/Winter 2019/2020

13

Everyone is welcome!

Two institutions of the City – The Belgrade City Museum and the Tourism Organization of Belgrade enabled us to be guests at Slava for one day. It is an excellent opportunity for us to confirm to foreign visitors that the Serbs are a hospitable nation, and also to learn ourselves something more about this centuries-old Serbian celebration. The customs pertaining to Slava have, for sure, been modified and personalized through their transmission from one generation to another, so one such program is a good opportunity for us to get to know them in their original form. Marko Panajotović, an actor and the host of Slava, told us who the “Serbian Slava” program is actually intended to: - In fact, this event exists so as to make young people in Serbia remind themselves of the traditional values that our predecessors used to respect. It is also important to highlight that, when there is a need, the program is also performed in English so that people throughout the world could also hear of this custom, speaking of which we are really unique. As well as our people abroad so that they don’t forget their roots.

Even if you are not a tourist, even if you don’t need an extra class in tradition, “Serbian Slava” is, among other things, a perfect Sunday matinee – the Slava table groaning with food and drink, interesting stories, a visit to the former home of Princess Ljubica Obrenović, in the company of curator Marko Živanović, having a look around the current exhibition…

An Authentic Experience “Serbian Slava” is so devised that it makes us truly feel as guests at the Slava. At the entrance to the Residence, actor Marko Panajotović welcomed us as the host and walked us to the ceremonially laid Slava table groaning with food and drink on the upper floor of that edifice.

When all guests gathered around the table, as the customs impose, we were served one after another with wheat, wine, brandy, Slava doughnut, black coffee, with a bit of chatting in-between.

The program is interactive, and how it will be performing also depends on who is the one sitting next to you at the table; so, both from the host and from other guests, we came to know since when the Serbs have been celebrating Slava, how many saints protect Serbian families, why is it wheat that is served, what the letters on the Slava cake stand for, and what the flame of the candle represents, why the Ascension Day was chosen as the Slava of the Capital City…

After we had got the answers to the questions of the Slava customs and characteristics, which we had used to take for granted before, in the end, the host also read to us a passage from a humorous description of Slava by writer Dragomir Janković: “.Once, on this day, my grandpa every time used to be at the barber’s already at seven in the morning to have him apply Kölnisch wasser on his cheeks, fashion his sideburns and remove all the small hairs. At eight, he was in Sarajevska Street, at Koča Djordjevski’s bakery, to pick up a roast piglet, on whose small leg a greasy piece of cardboard was dangling – For the Menu. At the same time, my grandma was ironing my curly hair to be able to part it and sprinkling me with the Black Cat, so that the child could also smell of the holiday. While doing that, she was trying to convince me to kiss my uncle Ćirko’s hand and recite something from ‘Djulići uveoci’ ("The Wilted Roses") poetry book to her, although she was deaf… At noon, Priest Vasa would come to give his blessing and to preside over the cutting of our Slava cake. I remember him asking the same thing every year: What’s this so nice smell in the house? And my grandma answering: The child, smelling of the Black Cat… Around five, the lunch ended with cookies being served, and around six already, our godparents, friends, and more relatives were arriving for another round of eating and drinking. Well, that’s how it was once. And I’m telling you all this so that the parvenu Serbs can hear how old Serbs living in the cities celebrated their Patron Saint’s Day –Slava – while religion was the opium of the people.”

Dragana Barjaktarević Photo: Belgrade City Museum & Dragana Barjaktarević

14 Fall/Winter 2019 /2020

BelGuest

Since when have the Serbs been celebrating Slava?

This custom is believed to have originated from as early as the era of paganism. When, under the influence of Byzantine, the Serbs received Christianity, it was very difficult for them to renounce their old customs. In exchange for the family-guardian pagan god, the host of the house would choose one Christian saint, the one on whose day he had been baptized, to be the protector of his home.

Despot Stefan Lazarević declared Belgrade capital (15th century)

Why is the Ascension Day Belgrade’s Slava?

As every family celebrates and respects its patron saint, every place in Serbia also has its own Slava. Ever since Despot Stefan Lazarević gave Belgrade the status of the capital city in 1403, Belgrade has been celebrating the Ascension Day – The Feast of the Ascension of Jesus Christ as its Slava in the honor of the revival and elevation, i.e. ascension of the city.

BelGuest

Fall/Winter 2019/2020

15

T E M AT S K I

I G R O K A Z

M U Z ej A

G R A D A

BUDI GOST NA SRPSKOJ SLAVI

B E O G R A D A

Kao jedna od retkih neprekinutih tradicija u srpskom narodu, od 2014. godine krsna slava se nalazi na Uneskovoj Reprezentativnoj listi nematerijalnog kulturnog nasleđa. Od avgusta ove godine, kao deo redovnih turističkih programa Beograda, u Konaku knjeginje Ljubice izvodi se igrokaz koji posetiocima živo predstavlja način na koji se slavi srpska slava.

Ne putujemo na druge geografske širine i dužine da bismo iskusili isto ono što imamo kod kuće. Putujemo da bismo istražili nove kulture, ukuse i običaje. A da bi se neki grad uistinu doživeo, nije dovoljno da se redom štriklira lista ne smete propustiti atrakcija. Tako, recimo, kako bi putnik osetio pravi Beograd, negde između parka Kalemegdana i Skadarlije, treba i da prezalogaji na delikatesnom ponedeljku u KC „Gradu“, bocka tiket na novogodišnjoj Čumić tomboli ili, još intimnije – da bude gost na srpskoj slavi. Ali kakve su šanse za tako nešto? Pa, sasvim izvesne. Dovoljno je da se u Beogradu zadesi nedeljom u 14 časova.

Ako se u to vreme zaputi u Konak kneginje Ljubice, na vratima će ga dočekati domaćin slave sa žitom, vinom i zdravicom: Slavu slavili, slavu ne zaboravili, uvek se srećno i veselo nalazili, jedno drugog pominjali! Živeli!

Svi su dobrodošli!

Dve gradske institucije – Muzej grada Beograda i Turistička organizacija Beograda omogućile su nam da na jedan dan budemo gosti na slavi. To je odlična prilika da strancima potvrdimo kako su Srbi gostoljubiv narod, ali i da sami naučimo nešto više o ovoj vekovima straroj srpskoj svetkovini. Slavski običaji su u generacijskim prenošenjima s kolena na koleno zacelo bivali modifikovani i personalizovani, pa je jedan ovakav program dobra prilika da ih spoznamo u izvornom obliku. Kome je sve namenjen program „Srpska slava“, ispričao nam je Marko Panajotović, glumac i domaćin na slavi: - Ovaj događaj zapravo postoji kako bi se mladi ljudi u Srbiji setili tradicionalnih vrednosti koje su poštovali naši preci. Takođe, bitno je istaći da se program po potrebi izvodi i na engleskom jeziku kako bi i ljudi u svetu mogli da čuju za ovaj običaj u kom smo mi zaista jedinstveni. Ali i naši ljudi u inostranstvu kako ne bi zaboravili svoje korene.

A sve i da niste turista i da vam ne treba dopunski čas iz tradicije, „Srpska slava“ je, između ostalog, savršen nedeljni matine – slavska trpeza, zanimljive priče, obilazak nekadašnjeg doma kneginje Ljubice Obrenović u društvu kustosa Marka Živanovića, razgledanje tekuće izložbe…

16 Fall/Winter 2019 /2020

BelGuest

Autentičan doživljaj „Srpska slava“ osmišljena je tako da se izistinski osetimo kao gosti na slavi. Na ulasku u Konak dočekao nas je glumac Marko Panajotović u ulozi domaćina i ispratio do svečano postavljene slavske trpeze na spratu tog zdanja. Kad su se svi gosti okupili oko stola, kako to običaji nalažu, služili su nas redom: žitom, vinom, rakijom, slavskom krofnom, domaćom kafom, a između i po „čašica“ razgovora.

Program je interaktivan, a kako će se odvijati, zavisi i od toga s kim ćete se zateći za stolom, pa smo tako što od domaćina, što od drugih gostiju doznali – otkad Srbi slave slavu, koliko svetaca štiti srpske porodice, zašto se baš žito služi, šta predstavljaju slova na slavskom kolaču, a šta plamen sveće, zašto je Spasovdan izabran za slavu prestonice…

Pošto smo dobili odgovore na pitanja o slavskim običajima i obeležjima, koje smo ranije mahom uzimali zdravo za gotovo, domaćin nam je za kraj pročitao i odlomak iz duhovitog prikaza slave književnika Dragomira Jankovića: „Nekada je moj deda, na današnji dan, već u sedam bio kod berberina, da mu Kelniše vaserom našljapka obraze, fazonira zulufe i ištucuje dlačice. U osam je bio u Sarajevskoj ulici, kod pekara Đorđevski Koča da podigne prasence, na čijoj je nogici lelujalo masno parče kartona – Za Jelovnik. Za to vreme, baba mi je peglala grguljavu kosu „na razdeljak“ i fajtala me Crnom mačkom, da dete miriše na praznik. Usput me je ubeđivala da tetka Ćirku poljubim u ruku i da joj nešto odrecitujem iz „Đulića uveoka“, iako je gluva… U podne nam je dolazio pop Vasa da blagosilja i da isečemo kolač. Sećam se da je svake godine pitao: Šta vam ovako lepo miriše u kući? I da je baba odgovarala: Dete, na Crnu mačku… Oko pet, ručak se završavao sitnim kolačima, а već oko šest su stizali kumovi, prijatelji i ostala rodbina, da se nanovo jede i pije. Eto, tako je to nekada bilo. A ja vam sve ovo pričam da novokomponovani Srbi čuju kako su stari gradski Srbi slavili slavu – dok je religija bila opijum za narod.“ Dragana Barjaktarević Foto: Muzej grada Beograda i Dragana Barjaktarević

Otkad Srbi slave slavu?

Veruje se da ovaj običaj potiče još iz vremena paganstva. Kada su Srbi pod uticajem Vizantije primili hrišćanstvo, veoma su se teško odricali starih običaja. U zamenu za paganskog boga čuvara porodice, domaćin kuće bi uzimao jednog hrišćanskog sveca, onog na čiji dan se krstio, da bude zaštitnik njegovog doma.

Zašto je Spasovdan slava Beograda?

Kao što svaka porodica slavi i poštuje svog svetitelja, tako i svako mesto u Srbiji ima svoju slavu. Od kada je despot Stefan Lazarević 1403. godine Beogradu dao status prestonice, u čast obnove i uzdizanja, odnosno vaznesenja grada, Beograd slavi Vaznesenje Gospodnje – Spasovdan, kao svoju slavu.

Info: www.mgb.org.rs/desavanja/program-srpska-slava • www.tickets.rs/partners BelGuest Fall 2019

17

E V E N T S

/

D O G A Đ A J I

E XH I B I T I O N S A N D C O N C E R T S / I Z L O Ž B E I K O N C E R T I A TRIP TO THE MOON PUT NA MESEC July 2019 - 31st January 2020 Gallery of the Natural History Museum / Galerija Prirodnjačkog muzeja Info: www.novembargallery.com MARINA ABRAMOVIĆ THE CLEANER MARINA ABRAMOVIĆ ČISTAČ September 2019 – 20th January 2020 Salon of the Museum of Contemporary Art / Salon Muzeja savremene umetnosti Info: www.msub.org.rs SERBIAN ROYAL PORTRAITS SRPSKI KRALJEVSKI PORTRETI November 2019 – March 2020 The house of Jevrem Grujić / Dom Jevrema Grujića Info: www.domjevremagrujica.com FASHION IN MODERN SERBIA MODA U MODERNOJ SRBIJI November 2019 - 31st January 2020 Museum of Applied Art / Muzej primenjene umetnosti Info: www.mpu.rs NOTE - Mario Kolarić 7th November 2019 - 14th January 2020 Novembar Gallery Info: www.novembargallery.com THREE CENTURIES OF BREWING IN BELGRADE TRI VEKA PIVARSTVA U BEOGRADU November 2019 - February 2020 Museum of Science and Technology / Muzej nauke i tehnike Info: www.muzejnt.rs HUNTING CULTURE – THE DONSO IN BAMANА TRADITION KULTURA LOVA – DONSO U TRADICIJI BAMANA November 2019 – March 2020 Museum of African Art / Muzej afričke umetnosti Info: www.mau.rs THE NINETIES: A GLOSSARY OF MIGRATIONS DEVEDESETE: REČNIK MIGRACIJA December 2019 – 1st March 2020 The May 25 Museum / Muzej „25. maj“ Info: www.muzej-jugoslavije.org PROJECT YUGOSLAVIA PROJEKAT JUGOSLAVIJA December 2019 – 15th April 2020 The May 25 Museum / Muzej „25. maj“ Info: www.muzej-jugoslavije.org

18 Fall/Winter 2019 /2020

BelGuest

E V E N T S

/

D O G A Đ A J I

RESTLESS PICTURE, HESITANT GAZE NEMIRNA SLIKA, NEODLUČAN POGLED December 2019 – 6th January 2020 Gallery Podroom / Galerija Podroom Info: www.kcb.org.rs NEW YEAR’S SALES EXHIBITION NOVOGODIŠNJA PRODAJNA IZLOŽBA 16th December 2019 – 13th January 2020 Gallery of The Ilija M. Kolarac Foundation / Galerija Zadužbine Ilije M. Kolarca Info: www.kolarac.rs HILARIOUS “BEETHOVEN & MORE” URNEBESNI “BETOVEN I JOŠ PONEŠTO” 26th & 27th December 2019 Kolarac Foundation Grand Hall / Velika dvorana Kolarčeve zadužbine Info: www.bgf.rs AKUA NARU 27th December 2019 Belgrade Youth Center / Dom omladine Beograda Info: www.domomladine.org GIPSY KINGS 19th February 2020 Sava Center / Centar "Sava" Info: www.savacentar.net

F E S T I VA L S A N D M A N I F E S TAT I O N S / F E S T I VA L I I M A N I F E S TAC I J E

VIZUALIZATOR November - 21st December 2019 Museum of applied art, progress gallery, Đura Jakšić's house...

Info: www.vizualizator.rs OPEN HEART STREET ULICA OTVORENOG SRCA 1st January Streets of Belgrade Info: www.tob.rs 48TH FEST - INTERNATIONAL FILM FESTIVAL 48. MEĐUNARODNI FILMSKI FESTIVAL - FEST 28th February – 8th March 2020 Info: www.fest.rs 17TH BELGRADE DANCE FESTIVAL 17. BEOGRADSKI FESTIVAL IGRE 21st March – 12th April Info: www.belgradedancefestival.com

BelGuest

Fall/Winter 2019/2020

19

A

C L O S E R

L O O K

–

B E L G R A D E

S I G H T S E E I N G

WALKING DOWN OLD TOWN AND BELGRADE FORTRESS

KROZ BEOGRADSKU VAROŠ I BEOGRADSKU TVRĐAVU

Funny and interesting sightseeing: The Republic Square, Bohemian Quarter Skadarlija, the oldest part of Belgrade with Ottoman heritage, „Sillicon valley“, Zoo, Kalemegdan park, Belgrade fortress, The „Victor“ - the most famous symbol of Belgrade, the confluence of the Sava and the Danube rivers. Saborna church, cafe „?“, Knez Mihailova street.

Info: www.belgradewalkingtours.com

Ovo je istovremeno i zabavno i zanimljivo razgledanje: Trg Republike, boemska četvrt Skadarlija, stari delovi Beograda i njegovo osmansko nasleđe, „Silkonska dolina”, Zoo vrt, park Kalemegdan, Beogradska tvrđava, statua „Pobednik” - najpoznatiji simbol Beograda, ušće Save u Dunav, Saborna crkva, kultna kafana Znak pitanja, Knez Mihailova ulica.

Info: www.belgradewalkingtours.com

A WALK IN OLD ZEMUN

ŠETNJA STARIM ZEMUNOM

Once on the very border of the two empires, Zemun still gives impression of the atmosphere of the Austrian-Hungarian Empire. Gardoš Tower, offering a panoramic view of the Danube, is the symbol of this extraordinary city. Valuable edifices and ambiences of Old Zemun are a must-visit for tourists. The tour ends with a stroll on the beautifully landscaped Zemun quay, on the banks of the Danube River.

Info: www.belgradewalkingtours.com

Nekada na samoj granici dva carstva, Zemun i danas odiše atmosferom Austrougraske carevine. Simbol ovog posebnog grada je kula Gardoš s predivnim panoramskim pogledom na Dunav. Obilazak vrednih zdanja i ambijenata starog Zemuna spada...

Tura se završava šetnjom na predivno uređenom Zemunskom keju, na obali Dunava.

Info: www.belgradewalkingtours.com

BELGRADE UNDERGROUNG TOUR

TURA PODZEMNIM BEOGRADOM

Beneath the city lies another city. Underground Belgrade a different set of invisible tunnels, caves, dungeons, bunkers... A great tour for adventurers in search of secrets, legends and an unexpected history of the city. The route includes the Roman hall, the military bunker from the period of the Cold War, the Great gunpowder storage, dungeons at Kosančićev Venac Square and wine dungeons.

Ispod grada krije se još jedan grad. Podzemni Beograd predstavlja splet različitih nevidljivih tunela, pećina, laguma, bunkera... Odlična tura za avanturiste u potrazi za tajnama, legendama i jednom neočekivanom istorijom grada. Maršruta obuhvata Rimsku dvoranu, vojni bunker iz doba hladnog rata, Veliki barutni magacin, lagume Kosančićevog venca i vinske lagume.

Info: www.belgradewalkingtours.com

Info: www.belgradewalkingtours.com

22 Fall/Winter 2019 /2020

BelGuest

P O G L E D

I Z B L I Z A

-

R A Z G L E D A N J A

B E O G R A D A

BE A GUEST AT SERBIAN SLAVA

BUDI GOST NA SRPSKOJ SLAVI

As one of the rare unterminated traditions of the Serbian nation, a holiday celebrated by the Orthodox Serbian family in honor of its Patron Saint, has been inscribed on the UNESCO Representative Intangible Cultural Heritage List since 2014. Since August this year, a theatrical piece has been performed as part of Belgrade’s regular tourist programs in the Residence of Princess Ljubica, vividly presenting visitors how a Serbian Slava is celebrated.

Info: www.mgb.org.rs www.tickets.rs/partners

Kao jedna od retkih neprekinuti tradicija u srpskom narodu, od 2014. godine krsna slava se nalazi na Uneskovoj Reprezentativnoj listi nematerijalnog kulturnog nasleđa. Od avgusta ove godine, kao deo redovnih turističkih programa Beograda, u Konaku knjeginje Ljubice izvodi se igrokaz koji posetiocima živo predstavlja način na koji se slavi srpska slava.

Info: www.mgb.org.rs www.tickets.rs/partners

COFFEE BREAK AT DUCHESS LJUBICA

NA KAFI KOD KNEGINJE LJUBICE

The programme “Coffee with Princess Ljubica” shows Belgrade during the time of the Obrenović royal dynasty. The curator of the City Museum dressed in a costume from that era greets visitors as a hostess of her palace. The story with which she animates the audience is popular and adjusted to tourist museum tours. And after a history class at Divanhana, the central place in the Palace, the guests are served the best coffee and the best Turkish delight.

Info: www.mgb.org.rs www.tob.rs

Program „Na kafi kod kneginje Ljubice” predstavlja Beogradu za vreme vladavine dinastije Obrenović.

Kustoskinja Muzeja grada obučena u kostim iz toga doba dočekuje posetioce kao domaćica svoje palate. Priča kojom animira publiku je popularna i prilagođena turističkim turama obilaska muzeja. A posle časa istorije u Divanhani, centralnom mestu u Konaku gostima se služi kafa i najbolji ratluk.

Info: www.mgb.org.rs www.tob.rs

MY FATHER VUK KARADŽIĆ

MOJ OTAC VUK KARADŽIĆ

In the authentic ambience of the Museum of Vuk and Dositej, once the seat of the Belgrade Grand School – the first higher-school institution of the Serbia of the new century, an actress in a costume playing the role of Mina Karadžić tells visitors an emotional biographical story of the life of the familyof Vuk Stefanović Karadžić – the great enlightener and reformer of the Serbian language and script.

Info: www.narodnimuzej.rs

U autentičnom ambijentu Muzeja Vuka i Dositeja, nekadašnjem sedištu Velike škole – prvoj visokoškolskoj ustanovi novovekovne Srbije, kostimirana glumica u ulozi Mine Karadžić, posetiocima pripoveda emotivnu biografsku priču o životu porodice Vuka Stefanovića Karadžića – velikog prosvetitelja i reformatora srpskog jezika i pisma.

Info: www.narodnimuzej.rs

BelGuest

Fall/Winter 2019/2020

23

A

C L O S E R

L O O K

–

B E L G R A D E

S I G H T S E E I N G

ON WAVES

TALASANJE

Belgrade is one of the few cities lying on the two rivers. Therefore, it is always tempting to get to know the city from its two rivers, the Sava and the Danube.

The yachting club Kej organises two-hour river tours during which you can relax and enjoy the city from water. You can have a complete enjoyment since there is a music programme and dinner à la carte. You can choose between daily tours, sunset or party tours.

Info: www.klubkej.com

Beograd je jedan od retkih gradova koji leže na dve reke. Zato je uvek primamljivo upoznati ga upravo sa talasa Save i Dunava. Jahting Klub Kej organizuje dva sata opuštanja i uživanja na vodi uz panoramsko razgledanje grada. Da bi ugođaj bio potpun, tu su muzički program i večera a la carte.

Možete odabrati dnevno krstarenje, plovidbu u vreme zalasaka Sunca ili parti turu.

Info: www.klubkej.com

LONGEST BOAT ROUTE

NAJDUŽA BRODSKA RUTA

On eighteen kilometers long route you will see the most iconic Belgrade landmarks: the medieval Belgrade Fortress, the impressive Victor statue, “green pearl” of the city – the Great War Island, the communist buildings of New Belgrade, the Beautiful Millennium tower In Zemun, the Exclusive “Belgrade Waterfront” district and all eight bridges of the city, including the new Ada Bridge.

Info: www.cruisebelgrade.com

Na maršruti dugoj osamnaest kilometara videćete najmarkatnija obeležja Beograda: srednjovekovnu Beogradsku tvrđavu, impresivan spomenik „Pobednik“, zelenu oazu grada – Veliko ratno ostrvo, komunističke građevine Novog Beograda, divnu Milenijumsku kulu u Zemunu, novi, ekskluzivni deo grada „Beograd na vodi” i svih osam gradskih mostova, uključivši i novi most na Adi. Info: www.cruisebelgrade.com

REMEBERING TITO AND SOCIALISM

SEĆANJE NA TITA I SOCIJALIZAM

The permanent exhibition of the Museum of Yugoslav History vividly witnesses about the history of the former Yugoslavia and the life and work of its legendary president Josip Broz Tito.

The Museum consists of the Museum 25 May, the Old Museum and the House of Flowers. Besides President Tito’s and Jovanka’s graves, a ‘pilgrimage’ destination for all “Yugo nostalgic” people who want to pay homage to President Tito, the Museum showcases Tito’s presents, personal belongings, as well as lots of items from the Yugoslav era.

O istoriji bivše Jugoslavije i životu i delu njenog legendarnog predsednika Josipa Broza Tita, živo svedoče stalne postavke Muzeja istorije Jugoslavije.

U njegovom sastavu su „Muzej 25. Maj”, „Stari muzej” i „Kuća cveća”. Mauzolej gde počivaju predsednika Tito i njegova supruga Jovanka je mesto „hodočašća“ za sve jugonostalgičare. Ovde možete videti i zbirku Titovih ličnih predmeta, poklona koje je primio, kao kao i mnogo predmeta iz jugoslovenske epohe.

Info: s tillinbelgrade.com

24 Fall/Winter 2019 /2020

BelGuest

Info: stillinbelgrade.com

P O G L E D

I Z B L I Z A

-

R A Z G L E D A N J A

B E O G R A D A

SAVAMALA – A CREATIVE DISTRICT

SAVAMALA – KREATIVNA ZONA

Savamala is one of the oldest Belgrade neighbourhoods and one of the youngest places for design, cultural events and exciting nightlife. You can see their famous murals and graffiti, architecture, former industrial zone, culture centers, creative industries point, Belgrade Waterfront project, famous independent contemporary art gallery and inner-city clubbing district.

Info: stillinbelgrade.com

Savamala je jedna od najstarijih beogradskih četvrti i jedno od najmlađih uporište dizajna, kulturnih dešavanja i uzbudljivog noćnog života.

Ovde možete videti poznate murale i grafite, staru arhitekturu, nekadašnju industrijsku zonu, kulturne centre, hub kreativnih industrija, Beograd na vodi, poznate galerija savremene umetnosti, kao i dorćolski Clubbing distrikt.

Info: stillinbelgrade.com

AVALA TV TOWER

TV TORANJ NA AVALI

The Avala TV tower is a telecommunication and observation tower located at mount Avala in the southern suburbs of Belgrade. Being 205 meters high, it is currently the tallest tower in Belgrade, Serbia and the Balkans. On a sunny day one can have a splendid view about 100 kilometers around with its breathtaking townscape onto the surrounding hills, towns, roads and rivers, as well as to the Pannonian Plain in the north.

Info: stillinbelgrade.com

Avalski TV toranj je telekomunikacioni objekat i mesto za panoramsko posmatranje grada i njegove okoline. Nalazi se na planini Avala, u južnom predgrađu Beograda. Toranj je visok 205 metara i trenutno je najviši objekatmu Beogradu, Srbiji i na Balkanu. Po sunčanom danu može uživati u spektakularnom panoramskom pogledu koje se prostira na oko sto kilometara unaokolo.

Info: stillinbelgrade.com

MEMORY OF THE WORLD

PAMĆENJE SVETA

The Archive of Nikola Tesla, a scientific genius who “illuminated the planet”, is inscribed on the UNESCO List of Intangible Cultural Heritage. The archival materials and other valuable exhibits of the scientist’s inheritance are preserved at the Museum of Nikola Tesla. Nikola Tesla was a prolific scientist and during his lifetime he produced many patents for inventions that have truly changed the world. Get an overview of all the important events that took place during Tesla's extraordinary life.

Info: nikolateslamuseum.org

Na Uneskovoj listi nematerijalnog kulturnog nasleđa upisan je Arhiv Nikole Tesle, genijalnog naučnika koji je „osvetlio planetu“. Arhivska građa i drugi vredni eksponati iz naučnikove zaostavštine čuvaju se u Muzeju Nikole Tesle. Nikola Tesla je bio izuzetno aktivan naučnik koji je tokom života smislio brojne inovativne patente koji sui z temelja promenili svet.

Steknite uvid u sve najznačajnije događaje koji su se odigrali tokom Teslinog čudesnog života.

Info: nikolateslamuseum.org

BelGuest

Fall/Winter 2019/2020

25

Interview – Bojan Pavlović, director of the City Tourism Organization of Kragujevac

Both the First and the Fourth The City of Kragujevac is the first capital of the new-century Serbia. In it, the first court, the first grammar school, the first theater… were established, and the Serbian industry was born in this city. The Monument to the Pupils and Teachers Executed by Firing Squad and the “Fića” automobile are its symbols. Our collocutor Bojan Pavlović considers the historic heritage, the strong urban “vibration” and the original products of the climate as the foundation on which he intends to build yet another attractive tourism destination of Serbia.

When you came to the forefront of the Tourism Organization, new, more ambitious goals were set…

Kragujevac is the fourth city by size in our country, only to be preceded

by Belgrade, Novi Sad, and Niš, which, each for itself, have achieved and are achieving envious results in the tourism sphere. I don’t see why we wouldn’t be following them in that respect. We’ve got all a developed urban environment should have. I’m convinced we can become yet

26 Fall/Winter 2019 /2020

BelGuest

another outstanding Serbian urban destination, and we’re ready to face this challenge.

You are an economist by profession. How have you made progress in your career?

I earned my degree in international management at the Faculty of Economics in Kragujevac. As early as during my university days, I became a member and the president of AIESEC, an international association of students, which, through different voluntary practices, endeavors to develop leadership in young people. They sent me to the company Messe Frankfurt, with a branch in Istanbul. Upon return, I began to work at the City Administration, the Department of International Cooperation and Protocol. As the head of cooperation and protocol, I gained quite a big experience in cooperation with partner cities, cultural exchange, the organization of city holiday festivals… When I was offered to move to the Tourism Organization, to me, it was both like encouragement and like a spontaneous continuation to my prior experiences.

What exactly are the main urban attractions of the city?

The complex named “Milošev Venac”, the core of the former capital,

the European unique complex of the Military-Technical Institute also known under the name “The Prince’s Arsenal” and the place where the industrial revolution in Serbia was first born. Within the Arsenal, there is a museum, “The Old Foundry”, in which the industrial achievements of that exciting timespan are exhibited.

The tragic tribulation of civilians in the time of the fascist occupation is sublimated into the monumental memorial complex in Šumarice…

The “Kragujevac October” Memorial Park is located in the location where German soldiers executed by firing squad several thousand people on October 20th and 21st, 1941. The cause for the executions by firing squad was the retaliation for the losses they had suffered in the armed

factory lines. In memory of this “favorite of the nation”, we organize the “Fića Fest” ever year, which brings together numerous lovers of this “small-size car of great possibilities”. Next year, we’re going to celebrate the 65th anniversary of the start of its manufacturing in a special way.

Nikola Koka Janković’s Legacy has recently been opened, and the opening of Djura Jakšić’s Home has also been announced…

Our fellow citizen, academic and sculptor, Nikola Koka Janković, bequeathed the incredible 1700 works of art to the city. The city considered that it was needed to do something right in return for what he had done, so we built one of the most modern galleries in Serbia. In spring, its replica is going to be built in the place of the house in which Djura

Amidža’s Residence, photo: Slavoljub Radojević

Monument to the Pupils and Teachers Executed by a Firing Squad, photo: Jovan Živanović

battles with the chetnik and partisan troops. The central Monument to the Pupils and Teachers Executed by Firing Squad was erected in the place where, together with their teachers, 300 secondary-school pupils were executed. Today, there’s a circular path through this green space, where visitors can also see other 30 mass graves, the 10 of which tumuli have been artistically arranged. The museum “October 21st” within the complex is the most significant museum in the city, which not only preserves the memories of those abominable days, but through its activity it sends a powerful antiwar message. The legacy of famous painter Petar Lubarda is one of the exceptional collections in the museum setting.

The automobile “Zastava 750”, the popular “Fića”, has remained an amenity of the city although its manufacturing ended a long time ago…

“Zastava” used to be the biggest automobile factory in the former Yugoslavia. Since the mid-1960s, nearly a million of nice-looking cars, which have become a cult national vehicle, were produced on the

Jakšić, our famous poet and a painter of the romanticism epoch, live.

On the upper floor, there will be an exhibition setting dedicated to the memories of him in the time of his serving here, and on the ground floor, there will be a wine “hub” – a space where the wines of Šumadija will be promoted and the legends, too, will be told over and over again about bohemian adventures from Djura Jakšić’s life. “Šumadija Plum Brandy” has recently become a protected brandy with a geographic origin. How will you include this famous, now also acknowledged, product in the tourism offer of the city?

We’d prepared the first “Šumadija Brandy Festival” with “Šumadija Brandy” Regional Association of Producers, which was held at the beginning of December. At this moment, the Association consists of 19 distilleries, some of them having tasting rooms. At every moment, we can organize brandy tours for those interested. We’ve also got a developed offer of rural tourism, which we can meaningfully fit into thematic

ARSENAL FEST By carefully selecting influential world and regional music names, the Arsenal Fest has succeeded in developing into a relevant event in the past nine years, thus having nominated itself for the European Festival Award in the category “The Best Small Festival”. Apart from the program, the unrepeatable atmosphere is also derived from the place it is held in – the historic-ambient complex of “Prince’s Arsenal”. photo: Slavoljub Radojević

BelGuest

Fall/Winter 2019/2020

27

tours. Apart from brandy, “refreshments of Šumadija”, the famous winter potion “Šumadija tea”, our famous wineries will certainly not be left out, either.

Of your numerous sightseeing offers, which are the most popular?

The monastery tours certainly have no equal. We pay visits to Vraćevšnica – the place where Kragujevac was declared capital city at the assembly held in the churchyard. We take our tourists to Blagoveštenje, Voljavča, Drača, as well as other less known, but still very nicelooking monasteries.

What do you like most in your home town?

I love most the First Grammar School of Kragujevac, i.e. the space including the Theater, the Grammar School, Home Culture Center, as the places where the greatest creators of my city gather and create. I was growing up on the programs of the Home Culture Center.

Deep in my heart, I’m a rocker, proud of our band Smak and our Serbian Jimmy Hendrix – Radomir Mihajlović Točak. Although it may seem contradictory, I unfathomably love bohemian Kragujevac, personified in the atmosphere of the pubs Balkan, Stara Srbija, Paligorić, Lovac… Yet, above all, I love the spirit permeating my city, connecting the impossible to connect – traditional and modern, tranquil and dynamic. My message is: Welcome to the city with a soul, welcome to Kragujevac!

GOLDEN HANDS OF ŠUMADIJE At the very heart of the city, a shop of domestic products from throughout the region has been opened. Here, you can buy the brandies of the “Šumadija Brandy” Association, the wines of the Association of Wine-growers of Šumadija, the most diverse little jars filled with delicatessen products made of domestic fruits and vegetables, national costumes… It certainly is a place worth visiting, where you can choose something to “treat yourself” to and also perceive the abundant fruits of the local climate.

Milena Mihaljčić

ŠUMADINO – A NEW FAVORITE Adventure Park at Šumaričko Lake – the green oasis of the city – has recently become richer for a new inhabitant. It is a scale model of a dinosaur, which is not only of imposing dimensions, but it can also “jump up”, move the head and address visitors with his own “voice”. Encouraged by the delight expressed by the youngest fellow citizens, as well as their parents, the Tourism Organization of Kragujevac organized voting for the name of the new favorite through Facebook. The name Šumadino won.

Gallery-Legacy of Nikola Koka Janković, photo: Slavoljub Radojević

Fića Fest, photo: Bojan Pavlović

28 Fall/Winter 2019 /2020

BelGuest

Photo:Jelica Miladinović

I ntrevj u – B ojan P avlović , direktor

I PRVI I ČETVRTI

G T O K rag u jevac

Kragujevac je prva prestonica novovekovne Srbije. U nemu su osnovani: prvi sud, prva gimnazija, prvi teatar...

U ovom gradu nastala je i srpska industrija. Njegovi simboli su Spomenik streljanim đacima i profesorima i automobil „fića“. Za našeg sagovornika Bojana Pavlovića istorijsko nasleđe, snažna urbana „vibracija“ i izvorni proizvodi podneblja, jesu temelj na kojima namerava da gradi još jedno privlačno turističko odredište Srbije.

The First Grammar School of Kragujevac, photo: Slavoljub Radojević

“The Old Foundry” Museum, photo: Slavoljub Radojević

Sa vašim dolaskom na čelo Turističke organizacije postavljeni su novi, ambiciozniji ciljevi ...

Kragujevac je četvrti grad po veličini u našoj zemlji, odmah posle Beograda, Novog Sada i Niša, koji su, svaki za sebe, postigli i postižu zavidne rezultate u sferi turizma. Ne vidim zašto ih u tome ne bismo sledili. Imamo sve što jedna razvijena urbana sredina treba da ima.

Uveren sam da možemo da postanemo još jedna markantna srpska gradska destinacija i spremni smo da ovom izazovu izađemo u susret.

Po obrazovanju ste ekonomista. Kako je tekla vaša profesionalna karijera?

Diplomirao sam međunarodni menadžment na Ekonomskom fakultetu u Kragujevcu i još kao student postao član i predsednik AIESEC-a, internacionalnog udruženja studenata koje, kroz različite volonterske prakse, nastoji da razvije liderstvo kod mladih. Poslali su me u kompaniju Messe Frankfurt sa ogrankom u Istanbulu. Po povratku, počinjem da radim u Gradskoj upravi u Odeljenju za međunarodnu saradnju i protokol. Kao načelnik saradnje i protokola stekao sam pozamašno iskustvo u saradnji s partnerskim gradovima, kulurnoj razmeni, organizaciji gradskih svetkovina... Kada mi je ponuđeno da pređem u Turističku organizaciju,

doživeo sam to i kao podstrek i kao prirodno nadovezivanje na moja prethodna iskustva.

Koje su to glavne urbane atrakcije grada?

Kompleks „Milošev venac“, jezgro nekadašnje prestonice, U Evropi jedinstveni kompleks Vojno-tehničkog zavoda, poznat i pod imenom „Knežev arsenal“ i mesto odakle je krenula industrijska revolucija u Srbiji. U okviru Arsenala nalazi se muzej „Stara livnica“, koji prikazuje industrijske domete tog uzbuljivog razdoblja.

Tragično stradanje civila u doba fašističke okupacije sublimirano je u monumentalan memorijalni kompleks u Šumaricama...

Spomen-park „Kragujevački oktobar“ nalazi se na prostoru gde su 1941. godine nemački vojnici 20. i 21. oktobra streljali više hiljada ljudi.

Povod za streljanja bila je odmazda za gubitke u oružanim borbama s četničkim i partizanskim jedinicama. Centralni Spomenik streljanim đacima i profesorima podignut je na mestu gde je pogubljeno tri stotine srednjoškolaca, zajedno s njihovim profesorima. Danas, kroz ovaj zeleni prostor vodi kružna staza, gde posetioci mogu da vide još trideset masovnih grobnica, od kojih je deset humki umetnički oblikovano.

Muzej „21. oktobar“ u sklopu kompleksa je najznačajniji muzej u gradu

BelGuest

Fall/Winter 2019/2020

29

koji, ne samo da čuva sećanja na ove strahotne dane, već svojom delatnošću šalje snažnu antiratnu poruku. Jedna od izuzetnih zbirki u postavci muzeja je legat čuvenog slikara Petra Lubarde.

Automobil „Zastava 750“, popularni „fića“, iako se odavno ne proizvodi, ostao je znamenje grada...

Zastava je bila je najveća fabrika automobila u bivšoj Jugoslaviji. Od sredine šezdesetih sa fabričkih traka izašlo je bezmalo milion simpatičnih malih automoblia koji su postali kultno nacionalno vozilo. U znak sećanja na ovog „narodnog miljenika“, svake godine održavamo „Fića fest“, koji okuplja brojne poklonike ovog „mališana velikih mogućnosti“. Sledeće godine ćemo na poseban način obeležiti 65 godina od početka proizvodnje.

Nedavno je otvoren Legat Nikole Koke Jankovića, a najavljeno je i otvaranje Kuće Đure Jakšića...

Naš sugrađanin, akademik i vajar, Nikola Koka Janković zaveštao je gradu neverovatnih hiljadu i sedamsto umetničkih dela. Grad je smatrao da je potrebno da mu se i na pravi način oduži tako što je izgradio jednu od najmodernijih galerija u Srbiji.

U proleće, na mestu gde se nalazila kuća u kojoj je živeo Đura Jakšić, slavni pesnik i slikar epohe romantizma, gradi se njena replika. Na gornjem spratu biće izložbena postavka posvećena uspomenama na njega u vreme dok je ovde službovao, a u prizemlju ćemo imati vinski „hub“ – prostor gde ćemo promovisati šumadijska vina ali i prepričavati legende o boemskim zgodama iz života Đure Jakšića. „Šumadijska šljivovica“ je nedavno zaštićena rakija s geografskim poreklom. Kako ćete, ovaj poznati, a sada i priznati proizvod, uključiti u turstičku ponudu grada?

Sa Regionalnom asocijacijom proizvođača „Šumadijska rakija“ pripremili smo prvi „Šumadijski festival rakije“ koji je održan početkom decembra. U ovom trenutku, Udružene broji devetnaeset destilerija, a neke od njih imaju degustacione sale. U svakom trenutku možemo organizovati rakijske ture za zaintresovane. Imamo i razvijenu ponudu seoskog turizma, što možemo smisleno uklopiti u tematske ture. Uz rakiju, „šumadijsku zakusku“, čuveni zimski napitak „šumadijski čaj“, nećemo izostaviti ni naše poznate vinarije.

Od brojnih ponuda razgledanja koje nudite koje se najpopularnije?

To su bez premca manastirske ture. Obilazimo Vraćevšnicu – mesto gde je na skupštini održanoj u porti crkve, Kragujevac proglašen prestonim gradom. Vodimo turiste u Blagoveštenje, Voljavču, Draču, kao i druge manje poznate, ali veoma lepe manastire. Šta najviše volite u svom rodnom gradu?

Najviše volim Prvu kragujevačku gimnaziju, odnosno prostor koji obuhvara Teatar, Gimnaziju i Dom omladine kao mesta okupljanja i stvaranja najvećih kreativaca mog grada. Odrastao sam uz programe Doma omladine. U duši sam roker, ponosan na grupu Smak i našeg srpskog Džimija Hendriksa – Radomira Mihajlovića Točka. Iako to može delovati kontradiktorno, neizmerno volim boemski Kragujevac, oličen u atmosferi kafana Balkan, Stara Srbija, Paligorić, Lovac... Ipak, iznad svega volim duh koji prožima moj grad, on spaja nespojivo – tradicionalno i moderno, mirno i dinamično. Moja poruka glasi: Dobrodošli u grad s dušom, dobrodošli u Kragujevac!

ARSENAL FEST Pažljivim odabirom uticajnih svetskih i regionalnih muzičkih imena, Arsenal Fest je za devet godina uspeo da preraste u relevantan događaj, te je ušao u trku za Evropsku festivalsku nagradu u kategoriji „Najbolji mali festival”. Osim programa, neponovljivu atmosferu daje mu mesto na kojem se održava – istorijsko- ambijentalna celina „Knežev arsenal“.

photo: Slavoljub Radojević

ZLATNE RUKE ŠUMADIJE U samom centru grada otvorena je prodavnica domaćih proizvoda iz čitave regije. Ovde se mogu kupiti rakije Udruženja „Šumadijska rakija“, vina Udruženja vinara Šumadije, najraznovrsnije teglice napunjene delikatesnim proizvodima od domaćeg voća i povrća, narodne nošnje... Svakako predstavlja mesto koje valja posetiti, odabrati nešo „za svoju dušu“, ali i na jednom mestu sagledati bogatstvo plodova ovdašnjeg podneblja.

Milena Mihaljčić

Balkan – a cult town pub, photo: Zoran Kočović

An Exhibition Setting of the National Museum, photo: Slavoljub Radojević

30 Fall/Winter 2019 /2020

BelGuest

NOVI MILJENIK ŠUMADINO Avantura park na Šumaričkom jezeru – zelenoj oazi grada – dobio je nedavno novog stanovnika. Reč je maketi dinosaurusa koja nije samo impozantnih razmera. On ume da „poskoči“, pomera glavu i „glasom“ se obraća prisutnima.

Podstaknuti oduševljenjem najmlađih sugrađana, ali i njihovih roditelja, TO Kragujevac je preko Facebook-a organizovala glasanje za ime novog miljenika. Ime Šumadino je pobedilo.

C I T Y

B R E A K

N O V I

S A D

For Beginners and the Knowledgeable

Lonely Planet brought the city a flattering title of the third destination in the world for the year 2019; actually, there is nothing unusual about it, because Novi Sad keeps attracting tourists by its urban heritage, a mixture of cultures, a pleasant atmosphere and a large number of events. It is always nice, but it is especially interesting in winter, since two Christmases and two New-Year’s Eves are celebrated in the city.

Photo: Aleksandar Milutinović

There is no better way to get to know the rhythm of a city than going to its main square; for that reason, you should exactly start from the Liberty Square, which is one of the main stages of the ceremonial atmosphere between Christmases and New-Year’s Eves celebrated according to the Gregorian and the Julian calendars. The monument to Svetozar Miletić is the center of the events, and the monumental edifice of the Town Hall and Roman Catholic Parish Church of the Name of Mary are the main “settings”.

32 Fall/Winter 2019 /2020

BelGuest

From Miletić to Poet Jakšić Even the most impatient walkers will enjoy the rest of the sightseeing tour of the core of Novi Sad, leading along Zmaj Jovina Street, up to the point at which it flows into Dunavska Street, where one can see the Palace of Bačka Bishop of the Serbian Orthodox Church.

The Palace leans against the Church of St. George, decorated with the iconostasis painted by one of the most famous painters in the history of Serbia – Paja Jovanović. Some of the oldest buildings in Novi Sad are lined along Dunavska Street. There is also Foreign Art Collection, as well as numerous shops, restaurants, cakeshops, passages... At the end of the street, you will see the Danube Park, an oasis of greenery with many monuments, one of which (namely that dedicated to poet and painter Djura Jakšić) is believed to fulfil your wishes if you whisper into his ear. We recommend that you should enrich your sightseeing tour with gastronomic specialties complemented by an excellent choice of wines. The restaurants of national and international cuisines, as well as numerous cafés, are located along the entire stretch from Liberty Square all to the end of Dunavska Street.

The Catholic Churchyard is a pleasant small square, overshadowed by the RomanCatholic Parish Church of the Name of Mary.

The square is dominated by the building of the Cultural Centre of Novi Sad, as one of the most important cultural institutions of an interdisciplinary character, as well as the baroque-classicist building of the Roman-Catholic Parish Office.

Photo: Aleksandar Milutinović

Svetozar Miletić was the most significant political figure and leader of the Serbs in Vojvodina in the 19th century. He was a lawyer, the mayor of the City of Novi Sad, a member of the Hungarian and Croatian Parliaments and the founder of the Serbian National Liberal Party. The monument to Svetozar Miletić in Liberty Square is a work of renowned sculptor Ivan Meštrović. “At Miletić’s“ is the most popular gathering place among the citizens of Novi Sad.

Photo: Aleksandar Milutinović

Two Hours More of a Pleasant Walk If you devote two or three hours more, you can also sightsee the wider city core bordered with Zlatne Grede, Miletićeva, Grčkoškolska and Pašićeva streets and the Square of Marija Trandafil. That is where you will find the Platoneum building, the seat of the Novi Sad branch of the Serbian Academy of Sciences and Arts, as well as the Icon House or the birth house of Marija Trandafil, the greatest benefactor amongst the Serbs. The nearby square was named after her. Thanks to her donations, an orphanage was built there. Today, it is the building of Matica Srpska, the oldest and most respectable Serbian cultural and scientific institution. The Church of St. Nicholas, the oldest Orthodox Church erected in 1730, is also located in the vicinity. The sons of Mileva Marić and Albert Einstein were baptized in it. At the end of Miletićeva Street, there is the Greek Catholic Church of St. Apostles Peter and Paul, one of the rare buildings that were not destroyed in the bombing of Novi Sad in 1849.

Photo: Aleksandar Milutinović

The tower of the Town Hall was once a fire lookout tower. The bell called “Matilda”, which was named after its benefactress, is placed in the tower. The number of the bell blows was the way to show the location of the fie, given that the city was divided into quarters.

BelGuest

Fall/Winter 2019/2020

33

Gibraltar on the Danube Petrovaradin Fortress is the most attractive tourist zone of Novi Sad, which is so powerful that it has never been conquered in its entire history. That is why it is called Gibraltar on the Danube. The fortress is one of the best-preserved fortifications in Europe and, at the same time, an exceptional example of military architecture. It spreads across 112 ha and has 10 gates, 12,000 loopholes and a room for 100 cannons. It is dominated by the Clock Tower, a symbol of Novi Sad, also known as “the drunken clock”, whose big hand shows hours and small hand shows minutes. Nowadays, Petrovaradin Fortress is the space ennobled by art studios, the City Museum of Novi Sad, the Gallery and Atelier 61, the Planetarium, restaurants and cafés. It is also the venue of EXIT – one of the most significant music festivals held in Europe. We recommend that you should invest a moment and enjoy the view from the terrace of the upper level of the Fortress or from one of the restaurants, and treat yourself to one of the specialties prepared in the kitchen of the Leopold I Hotel there.

The baroque Suburbium is part of Petrovaradin Fortress, together with the Roman-Catholic Church of Saint George with a convent, which has a special value.

Photo: Aleksandar Milutinović

Marija Trandafil was the greatest benefactress in the Serbs. Among her legacies, one singles out – The Legacy of Marija Trandafil for Serbian Orthodox Orphans – today’s seat and library of Matica Srpska.

She also reconstructed the nearby St. Nicholas’ Church, and she is known to have been feeding the poor of Novi Sad during the great famine, irrespective of their faith and nation.

Photo: Franja Bezdan

The underground military galleries/tunnels and a four-storey communication defense system 16 km in length are a unique attraction of Petrovaradin Fortress. A segment of the network of the corridors, rooms of different purposes, the war lines with the loopholes and the mine systems almost 1 km long are open to visitors, providing them with a professional guide service of the City Museum of Novi Sad. Events and Nightlife More than 200 festivals are held in the city during the year. The most famous is EXIT. This year, Novi Sad was the European Youth Capital, and in 2021, it will be the European Capital of Culture. But you do not have to wait for some special occasion to appear to have a good time – you can enjoy some of its numerous cafés, clubs, disco clubs, small pubs, beerhouses, river restaurants, etc. everyday. After such a “warmup”, go to the heart of its nightlife – to Laze Telečkog Street, and organize the rest of the night according to your mood and music taste, or yet go to some of the river restaurants in Ribarac. Search the night map of Novi Sad gradually and “from the horse’s mouth”, because it constantly changes and enriches itself from season to season.

Adapted based on the publication "novi sad for beginers" by authoress gordana stojaković

Ilustracije: Ivana Ivanović

34 Fall/Winter 2019 /2020

BelGuest

Photo: Aleksandar Milutinović

NOVI SAD for the Knowledgeable Apart from the parts of the city that are the main segment of the tourist offer, we are also revealing to you some small and less known places of irresistible attractions. Our proposals are: • Visit the MANUAL workshop, the center of old leather processing masters – you may find some unique purse, bag or suitcase for yourself.

• Peep into the Ivković Atelier and Bookbinding Shop in Dunavska Street, which has been there, in that very same place, for over 200 years.

• Visit the ITD Gallery and Souvenir Shop at the plateau near “The Drunken Clock”. Their souvenirs and T-shirts are very provocative.

• Schedule a tour of the atelier of photographer Dragan Kurucić, which is located in one of the most mysterious underground passages of Petrovaradin Fortress.

• Have an ice-cream cone at the City pastry shop, opposite the Serbian National Theater. It looks like ice-cream, but it’s not ice-cream; it’s rather cold cream and hazelnuts.

• Have a pizza and pastas at the Nuovo Palazzo Bianco restaurant in Cara Dušana Street. All the aromatic spices which Bojana the cook uses to achieve the tastes are from its own garden.

• Order a fish soup at the Dunavac KM (At Karlo’s) csárda on the Fishermen’s Island and relax watching the magnificent river and with good local wines.

Photo: arhiva TONS-a

Photo: Dragan Kurucić

BelGuest

Fall/Winter 2019/2020

35

C I T Y

B R E A K

N O V I

S A D

ZA POČETNIKE I UPUĆENE Lonely Planet je gradu dodelio laskavu titulu treće destinacije na svetu za 2019.godinu, ali zapravo to nije ništa neobično, jer Novi Sad svojim urbanim nasleđem, mešavinom kultura, prijatnom atmosferom i mnoštvom događaja neprestano privlači turiste. Lep je uvek, ali je posebno zanimljiv zimi, jer se u gradu proslavljaju dva Božića i dve Nove godine.

Nema boljeg načina da upoznate ritam nekog grada od obilaska njegovog glavnog trga i zato treba krenuti baš od Trga slobode koji je jedan od glavnih pozornica slavljeničke atmosfere između Božića i Novih godina po gregorijanskom i julijanskom kalendaru. U centru zbivanja je spomenik Svetozara Miletića, a glavne „kulise“ su monumentalno zdanje Gradske kuće i Rimokatolička Crkva Imena Marijinog.

OD MILETIĆA DO PESNIKA JAKŠIĆA Čak i najnestrpljiviji šetači uživaće u ostatku obilaska srca grada, koji vodi kroz Zmaj Jovinu ulicu, sve do mesta gde se ona „uliva“ u Dunavsku. Baš na ovom ušću nalazi se Vladičanski dvor Eparhije bačke, izgrađen u otmenom srpsko-vizantijskom stilu. Dvor se oslanja na Crkvu Svetog Georgija, ukrašenu ikonostasom koji je oslikao jedan od najpoznatijih slikara u istoriji Srbije – Paja Jovanović. Duž Dunavske ulice načičkane su neke od najstarijih zgrada u Novom Sadu. U ulici se nalazi i Zbirka strane umetnosti, ali i mnoštvo prodavnica, restorana, poslastičarnica, pasaža... Na samom kraju, čeka vas Dunavski park, oaza zelenila sa puno spomenika, a prema verovanju, jedan od njih, posvećen pesniku i slikaru Đuri Jakšiću, ispunjava želje, ukoliko mu ih šapnete na uvo. Preporučujemo da predahnete uz kulinarske specijalitete, što uključuje i odličan izbor vina. Restorani nacionalne i internacionalne kuhinje i kafeterije nalaze se duž čitavog poteza od Trga slobode do kraja Dunavske ulice.

Foto: arhiva TONS-a

Svetozar Miletić najznačajnija je politička ličnost i vođa Srba u Vojvodini u 19. veku. Bio je advokat, gradonačelnik Novog Sada, poslanik ugarskog i hrvatskog sabora, osnivač Srpske narodne slobodoumne stranke. Spomenik na Trgu slobode delo je slavnog vajara Ivana Meštrovića. Najpopularnije sastajalište Novosađana je upravo „kod Miletića“.

36 Fall/Winter 2019 /2020

BelGuest

Katolička porta je prijatan mali trg zaklonjen crkvom Imena Marijinog. Trgom dominiraju Kulturni centar Novog Sada – jedna od najznačajnijih institucija kulture interdisciplinarnog karaktera i zgrada Rimokatoličkog župnog ureda.

Foto: Aleksandar Milutinović

Toranj na Gradskoj kući služio je za vatrogasno osmatranje. U njemu se nalazi zvono „Matilda”, koje je dobilo ime po svojoj dobrotvorki. Grad je bio podeljen na kvartove, a broj udaraca zvona označavao je gde je u gradu izbio požar.

Foto: Arhiva TONS-a

JOŠ DVA SATA PRIJATNE ŠETNJE Ako odvojite još malo vremena možete videti i obići šire gradsko jezgro omeđeno ulicama Zlatne grede, Miletićevom, Grčkoškolskom, Pašićevom i Trgom Marije Trandafil. Tu ćete pronaći Zgradu Platoneum, sedište novosadskog ogranka Srpske akademije nauka i umetnosti, kao i kuću Kod ikone ili rodnu kuću Marije Trandafil, najveće dobrotvorke kod Srba.

Po njoj je ime dobio obližnji trg na kom je zahvaljujući njenim donacijama podignuto sirotište, danas zgrada Matice srpske, najstarije i najuglednije srpske kulturne i naučne institucije. U blizini je i Nikolajevska crkva u kojoj su kršteni sinovi Mileve Marić i Alberta Ajnštajna. Na samom kraju Miletićeve ulice je Grkokatolička Crkva Sv. apostola Petra i Pavla, jedna od retkih građevina koja nije stradala u bombardovanju Novog Sada 1849.

Marija Trandafi najveća je dobrotvorka u Srba. Među njenim zaveštanjima izdavaja se „Zavedenije Marije Trandafi za srpsku pravoslavnu siročad” gde se danas nalazi sedište i biblioteka Matice srpske. Obnovila je i obližnju Nikolajevsku crkvu, a zna se i da je u vreme velike gladi hranila novosadsku sirotinju bez obzira na veru i naciju.

Foto: arhiva TONS

GIBRALTAR NA DUNAVU Najatraktivnija turistička zona Novog Sada je Petrovaradinska tvrđava koja je toliko moćna da nikada u svojoj istoriji nije bila osvojena. Zato nosi naziv Gibraltar na Dunavu.

To je jedna od najočuvanijih fortifikacija u Evropi i istovremeno izvanredan primer vojne arhitekture. Zahvata površinu od preko sto hekrata, ima deset kapija, preko dest hiljada puškarnica i niša za četiristotine topova. Tvrđavom dominira Toranj sa satom, zaštitni znak Novog Sada, poznat i kao „pijani sat“, jer njegova velika kazaljka pokazuje sate, a mala minute, opominjući nas da živimo u ritmu sati, a ne minuta. Danas je ovo prostor koji oplemenjuju umetnički ateljei, Muzej grada Novog Sada, Galerija i Atelje 61, Planetarijum, restorani i kafei. Tu se održava i jedan od najznačajnijih muzičkih festivala Evrope – EXIT. Preporučujemo da zastanete i uživate u pogledu sa terase Gornjeg platoa Tvrđave ili jednog od restorana ili da probate specijalitete kuhinje hotela „Fortress Leopold I“.

U podnožju Tvrđave je barokni Gradić – deo Petrovaradina gde posebnu vrednost ima Rimokatolička Crkva Sv. Juraja sa samostanom.

Podzemne vojne galerije, četvorospratni komunikacijsko-odbrambeni sistem dužine šesnaest kilometara je jedinstvena atrakcija Petrovaradinske tvrđave. Deo spleta koridora, prostorija različitih namena, borbenih linija sa puškarnicama i minskih sistema u dužini od oko kilometra dostupan je posetiocima uz stručno vođenje Vodičke službe Muzeja grada Novog Sada.

Foto: TONS

DEŠAVANJA I NOĆNI ŽIVOT U gradu se godišnje održi više od dvesta festivala, od kojih je najpoznatiji EXIT. Novi Sad je ove godine bio Omladinska prestonica Evrope, a 2021. će biti Evropska prestonica kulture, ali ne morate čekati neku posebnu priliku da biste se dobro proveli – svakodnevno možete uživati u nekom od njegovih mnogobrojnih kafića, klubova, diskoteka, kafanica, pivnica, splavova... a nakon takvog „zagrevanja“, zaputite se u srce noćnog života – u ulicu Laze Telečkog i ostatak večeri prilagodite svom raspoloženju i muzičkom ukusu ili pak na neki od splavova na Ribarcu. Istražujte noćnu mapu Novog Sada postepeno i iz „prve ruke“, jer se ona neprestano menja i dopunjava iz sezone u sezonu.

Foto: Dragan Kurucić

NOVI SAD ZA UPUĆENE

Uz delove grada koji su glavni deo turističe ponude, otkrivamo vam i neka mala i manje poznata mesta koja plene svojim sadržajem. Predlažemo da: • Posetite radionicu Manual, stecište starih majstora za obradu kože, možda nađete za sebe neku unikatnu tašnu, torbu ili kofer.

• Zavirite u Atelje i knjigoveznicu Ivković u Dunavskoj ulici koja na istom mestu postiji više od dva veka.

• Posetite galeriju i suvenirnicu ITD na platou kod „Pijanog sata“. Njihovi suveniri i majice veoma su originalni.

• Zakažite obilazak ateljea fotografa Dragana Kurucića koji se nalazi u jednom od tajanstvenih laguma Petrovaradinske tvrđave.

• Probajte kornet u poslastičarnici City, prekoputa Srpskog narodnog pozorišta.

Liči na sladoled, ali nije sladoled, već hladan krem od vrhnja i lešnika.

• Probate pice i testenine u restoranu Nuovo Palazzo Bianco u ulici Cara Dušana.

Svi mirisni začini kojim kuvar Bojan doteruje ukuse potiču iz njegove bašte.

• Naručite riblju čorbu u čardi Dunavac KM (Kod Karla) na Ribarskom ostrvu i opustite se uz divan pogled na reku i dobra lokalna vina. priređeno na osnovu publikacije „novi sad za početnike”, autorke gordane stojaković / Ilustracije: Ivana Ivanović

38 Fall/Winter 2019 /2020

BelGuest

BelGuest

Fall/Winter 2019/2020

39

N O V I

S A D

E V E N T S

/

D O G A Đ A J I

E X H I B I T I O N S / I Z L O Ž B E Marko Čelebinović’s Art in the Fourth Decade of the 20th Century Umetnost Marka Čelebonovića u četvrtoj deceniji 20.veka 7th November 2019 – 26th January 2020 Pavle Beljanski’s Memorial Collection Info: www.pavle-beljanski.museum Biography of an Art Lover Biografija jednog zaljubljenika u umetnost 16th December 2019 – 15th January 2020 Gallery of Visual Arts-Rajko Mamuzić’s Gift Collection Info: www.rmamuzic.rs Punctum. Collection of the Museum of Contemporary Arts of the Republic of Srpska Punktumi. Zbirka inostrane umetnosti Muzeja savremene umjetnosti Republike Srpske November 2019 – 1st March 2020 Matica Srpska Gallery Info: www.galerijamaticesrpske.rs " Following the Trace of a Thread" „Tragom niti” November 2019 – 6th January 2020 Foreign Art Collection Info: www.museumns.rs Joint opening of two exhibitions: A jump and a dive; Identity of Female Artists n (New-)Media Practice Zajedničko otvaranje dve izložbe: Skok i zaron; Identitet umetnica u (novo)medijskoj praksi November 2019 – 10th January 2020 Museum of Contemporary Art of Vojvodina Info: www.msuv.org “The Golden Eye” retrospective exhibition of awarded photographs in the period from 1961 to 1993 „Zlatno oko” retrospektivna izložba nagrađenih fotografija 1961-1993 10th – 20th December 2019 Museum of Contemporary Art of Vojvodina Info:www.muzejvojvodine.org.rs The Second Festival of Photography, topic: Novi Sad and Citizens of Novi Sad Drugi festival fotografije na temu: Novi Sad i Novosađani 4th – 11th December 2019 Museum of Vojvodina Info: www.muzejvojvodine.org.rs Kračun November 2019 –23rd February 2020 Matica Srpska Gallery Info: www.galerijamaticesrpske.rs

40 Fall/Winter 2019 /2020

BelGuest

U

N O V O M

S A D U

N O V I

S A D

E V E N T S

/

D O G A Đ A J I

U

N O V O M

S A D U

F E S T I VA L S A N D M A N I F E S TAT I O N S / F E S T I VA L I I M A N I F E S TAC I J E

Novi Sad Winter Fest Novosadski Winter Fest 21st November – 30th December Liberty Square Info: www.nswinterfest.rs Students’ Theater Festival Festival studentskog pozorišta 6th – 8th December Art Academy Novi Sad, Serbian National Theater Info: akademija.uns.ac.rs Ice Forest Ledena šuma 6th December 2019-19th January 2020 Danube Park Info. www.ledenasuma.rs Lantern Festival of a Smile Osmehov festival lampiona 7th December Quay of Raid Victims Info: www.osmehnadar.org Christmas-New Year Concerts Božićno-novogodišnji koncerti 14th December 2019 – 15th January 2020 Synagogue, Town Hall, Serbian National Theater Info: www.muzickaomladina.org New Year’s Eve Celebration Doček Nove godine 31st December 2019/1st January 2020 Liberty Square, Republic Square, Ice Forest (Danube Park) Info: www.docek.net Orthodox New Year’s Eve Celebration Doček Pravoslavne Nove godine 13th/14th January 2020 in numerous locations throughout the City Info: www.docek.net Love Festival Festival ljubavi 3rd February – 1st March Liberty Square Info: www.facebook.com/festivalljubavi

BelGuest

Fall/Winter 2019/2020

41

The Garson Lux garnì hotel is a unique place where the business spirit, art, sports, traditional values and hospitality blend into one. The ambient exudes pleasantness, comfort, practicality, and the artistic charm that do not leave guests indifferent. There, every detail has been paid due attention to, which singles out this garnì hotel, together with a high level of service, from an ordinary offer of hotels. The uniquely made furniture, antiques, artistic photographs and sculptures – they all create an ambient of comfort, relaxation and trendy elegance.

The hotel can accommodate up to a hundred guests. There are different types of rooms, starting from suites, two-bed and three-bed rooms and de-lux rooms. The rooms are spacious, equipped with stylistic furniture, ranging from 35 m² to as many as 80 m² of the largest suite.

In the Garson Lux, there are also an aperitive bar, a summer terrace, and a VIP salon. The hotel’s offer also includes a broad range of services of an impressive fitness center, with a possibility of using a gym and taking part in group programs.

Garni hotel Garson Lux je jedinstveno mesto u kome se spojaju poslovnost, umetnost, sport, tradicionalnie vrednosti i gostoprimljivosti. Ambijent odiše prijatnošću, komforom, praktičnošću i umetničkim šarmom koje goste ne ostavljaju ravnodušnim. To je mesto gde je svakom detalju posvećena dužna pažnja, što ovaj garni hotel, uz visok nivo usluge, izdvaja od uobičajene hotelske ponude. Unikatno izrađen nameštaj, antikviteti, umetničke fotografije i skulpture, kreiraju ambijent udobnosti, opuštenosti i trendi elegancije.

Hotel može da primi do sto gostiju. Postoje razičiti tipovi soba, počev od apartmana, dvokrevetnih i trokrevetnih soba i delux soba. Sobe su prostrane, stilski su nameštene, a kvadratura se kreće od 35m², dok najveći apartman ima čak 80m².

Garson Lux ima i aperitiv bar, letnju terasu i VIP salon. U ponudu hotela uključen je i širok spektar usluga impresivnog fitnes centra sa mogućnošću korišćenja teretane i učešća u grupnim programima.

INFO: Teodora Pavlovića 30, 21000 Novi Sad •Email: office@garsonlux.rs • Tel: 021 467 710 • www.garsonlux.rs

42 Fall/Winter 2019 /2020

BelGuest

Zimske radosti

Ove zime... #VidiSrbiju

TuristiÄ?ka organizacija Srbije

BelGuest

Fall/Winter 2019/2020

43

P H O T O

E D I T O R I A L / F O T O - E D I T O R I J A L

OLD CRAFTS AND SOUVENIRS OF SERBIA STARI ZANATI I SUVENIRI SRBIJE

In cooperation with the “Belgrade Waterfront” company, the National Tourism Organization of Serbia has for a longer time now been organizing thematic exhibitions in the open air, in a nice-looking and inspiring space of the Sava Promenade – a promenade on the very riverbank of the Sava. There is an ongoing exhibition there, dedicated to old crafts and souvenirs, a part of which we are presenting to you.The world of old crafts is exceptionally diverse.

Therefore, the exhibition shows just one part of our heritage, brought alive and personified in embroidery, weaving, pottery making. Some of old craft products, such as opanci (peasant leather footwear), šajkača (a Serbian national cap), and the flute have acquired a status of general national symbols. On the other side, there are kilim rugs and the pottery of Pirot, the pottery manufacturing school of Zlakusa, kilim rugs of Stapar, rosettes of Bela Voda, puppets of Banat, made of corn stalks, or the straw art of Tavankut are imprinted by the local climate.

Although basically different, some of old crafts are harmoniously blended with the serial production of souvenirs.

The motifs of embroidery and kilim rugs, Cyrillic letters… are used and printed on magnets, mugs, packaging… Our gastronomic tradition is also “packed” in lovely jars and small bottles. The greater the awareness of the importance of the preservation of our craft tradition and the larger the number of tourists, the greater the number of those respecting and admiring souvenirs and old craft products.

Turistička organizacija Srbije, u sardanji s kompanijom „Beograd na vodi“, već duže vreme organizuje tematske izložbe na otvorenom, u lepom i inspirativnom prostoru Sava promenade – šetališta na samoj obali reke Save. U toku je izložba sa temom starih zanata i suvenira, čiji vam deo prenosimo.

Svet starih zanata izuzetno je šarolik, pa je izložbom predstavljen tek deo našeg živog nasleđa koji je oličen u vezu, tkanju, grnčarstvu... Neki od starih zanatskih proizvoda, kao što su opanci, šajkača i frula, stekli su status opštenacionalnih simbola. Nasuprot njima, pirotski ćilimi i grnčarija, zlakuska grnčarska škola, staparski ćilimi, belovodske rozete, lutkice od kukuruzovine iz Banata ili tavankutska umetnost na slami, nose snažan pečat lokalnog podneblja.

Premda se u osnovi razlikuju, neki od starih zanata skladno su se uklopili sa serijskom prozvodnjom suvenira.

Motivi veza, ćilima, ćirilično pismo... našli su se na magnetima, šoljama, ambalaži... I naša gastronomska tradicija maštovito je „upakovana“ u ljupke teglice i bočice. Sa sve snažnijom svešću o važnosti očuvanja zanatske tradicije i sve većem broju turista, suveniri i proizvodi starih zanata stiču sve veći broj poštovalaca i poklonika.

44 Fall/Winter 2019 /2020

BelGuest

1

2

3

which is unique in the world of manufacturing kilim rugs. The manufacturing standard catalogue contains as many as 122 patterns and 96 ornaments / Pirotski ćilim nema lice i naličje, već dve potpuno iste strane, što je jedinstveno u svetu ćilimarstva. U katalogu standarda izrade nalazi se čak sto dvadest i dve šare i devedeset šest ornamenata/ photo: Rozana Sazdić

6

7

to decorate priests’ garments and various objects of divine service. The nuns of the Monastery of Žiča (in the photograph), as well as those of the Monastery of Gradac, are known as being excellent in embroidery. /U nekim od naših ženskih manastira posebno se neguje vez. Njime se ukrašavaju svešteničke odore i razni bogoslužbeni predmeti. Kao vrsne vezilje znane su monahinje iz Manastira Žiča (na fotografiji), kao i manastira Gradac. /photo: Dragan Bosnić

rug of Pirot has no face and back, 2 Thebut twokilimcompletely the same sides instead,

4

5

some of our monasteries for women, 1 Inembroidery is especially cherished. It is used

the time when there were no ready-made 3 Atpuppets, parents used an available mate-

rial to make toys for their children on their own. According to the tradition, corn-stalk puppets were created to look after children; today, however, they are lovely souvenirs (from Kovačica Souvenir Gallery) / U vreme kada nije bilo gotovih lutki, roditelji su svojoj deci sami pravili igračke od dostupnog materijala. Lutkice od kukuruzovine su, po predanju, bile stvorene da bi pazile na decu, a danas su ljupki suveniri (iz galerije suvenira u Kovačici). /photo: TOO Kovačica

Watermill on the River Gradac is the oldest in the region of Valjevo and the only in which wheat and corn are 4 Ilovačića still milled. However, there is no one (for the time being) to come next after the miller Sreten Milovanović /Ilovačića

vodenica na reci Gradac, najstarija je u valjevskom kraju i jedina u kojoj se i dalje melje žito i kukuruz. A vodeničara Sretena Milovanovića nema ko (za sada) da nasledi. / photo: Rozana Sazdić

souvenir shop in Loznica, where Vuk 7 TheStefanović-Karadžić was born, is an example of the creative application of the Cyrillic letters in producing “memories to take with you”. / Prodavnica suvenira u Loznici, rodnom kraju Vuka Stefanovića – Karadžića, primer je kreativne primene ćiriličnog pisma u proizvodnji „uspomena za poneti“. /photo: Rozana Sazdić

colorful and tasty. This is the “sweet heritage” of the Bosiljčić family, who run the only and the oldest candy5 Silken, maker’s shop in Belgrade, established in 1934, Svilene, šarene i ukusne. Ovo je „slatko nasleđe“ porodice Bosiljčić koja vodi jedinu i najstariju bombondžijsku radnju u Beogradu, osnovanu 1934. godine. /photo: Rozana Sazdić craft in the village of Bela Voda near Kruševac has been passed from father to son since as early as the 6 TheMiddlechiseling Ages. These stone “windows” of exceptional beauty are the ornaments on the façades of Lazarica Chruch,

the monastaries of Ljubostinja, Kalenić, Naupare…, / Klesarski zanat u selu Bela Voda kraj Kruševca prenosi se sa oca na sina još od srednjeg veka. Ovi prekrasni kameni „prozori“ ukras su fasada crkve Lazarice, manastira Ljubostinja, Kalenića, Naupara. /photo: Rozana Sazdić

BelGuest

Fall/Winter 2019/2020

45

P H O T O

E D I T O R I A L / F O T O - E D I T O R I J A L

2

1

4

5

are fewer and fewer people who, like 1 There Dragić Bugarin, can make an instrument to the accompaniment of whose sounds our overall epic tradition has been preserved. Singing to the accompaniment of the gusle has been inscribed on the UNESCO Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity as a part of Serbia’s national and cultural identity. /Sve je manje ljudi koji umeju, poput Dragića Bugarina, da naprave instrument uz čije se zvuke očuvalo naše celokupno epsko predanje.

Pevanje uz gusle je uvršteno na Uneskovu listu nematerijalne kulturne baštine čovečanstva kao deo nacionalnog i kulturnog identiteta Srbije. photo: Rozana Sazdić

46 Fall/Winter 2019 /2020

BelGuest

s clothing from Eastern Serbia consists of a 2 Men’ 3 flaxen shirt made of hemp, as has been done on Old Mountain from times immemorial, and the vest is tailored on the pattern of the “brigand clothing of the Timočka Krajina”. /Muška nošnja iz Istočne Srbije sastoji se od prtene košulje – napravljene od konoplje kako se odvajkada radilo na Staroj planini, a prsluk je rađen po uzoru na nekadašnju "hajdučku nošnju iz Timočke krajine". / photo: Rozana Sazdić

Apart from thousands of horseshoes, agricultural tools and other traditional iron products, a blacksmith from Baćevci near Belgrade also hammered all the metal reinforcements for king Alexander I Karadjordjević’s fiacre. / Kovač iz Baćevca kraj Beograda je, uz hiljade konjskih potkovica, poljoprivrednih alatki i drugih tradicionalnih proizvoda od gvožđa, iskovao i sve okove za fijaker kralja Aleksandra I Karađorđevića. / photo: Dragan Bosnić

P H O T O

E D I T O R I A L / F O T O - E D I T O R I J A L

3 6

Drndarević from the village of Zlakusa 5 Dušan near Užice continues the long-lasting tradi-

women are famous for being per4 Slovakian sistent in preserving tradition, which is clearly reflected in their colorful national costume and traditional embroidery. /Slovakinje su poznate kao istrajne čuvarke tradicije, a to se jasno ogleda u njihovoj živopisnoj nošnji i tradicionalnom lnonom vezu. /photo: Rozana Sazdić

tion of the far-known pottery manufacturing school, which uses special clay and applies a very old and unique technique: the objects are given shape on a slow handwheel and fired in an open kiln. / Dušan Drndarević iz sela Zlakusa kraj Užica nastavljač je duge tradicije nadaleko poznate grnčararske škole koja koristi posebnu glinu i primenjuju veoma staru i jedinstvenu tehniku: predmeti se oblikuju na sporom ručnom kolu i peku na otvorenoj vatri. photo: Dragan Bosnić

6

Dejan Milosavljević, a member of the Serbian Association of Cobblers Making the “Opanak” Peasant Shoe, exhibits his handicrafts at the Museum of the Art of Making the Opanak Peasant Shoe in the village of Rakovica. He is also famous for having made a giant travelling opanak museum./Dejan Milosavljević, član Udruženja opančara Srbije, svoje rukotvorine izlaže u Muzeju opančarstva u selu Rakovica.

Poznat je i po tome što je napravio džinovski putujući opanak-muzej. /photo: Rozana Sazdić

BelGuest

Fall/Winter 2019/2020

47

W h at

to

T ake

wit h

Yo u

from

S erbia

Warmth from Zlatibor As early as in the 1960s, Stanimirka Golubović realized that she could feed her family by making her nicelooking handicrafts. She followed the example of the jumpers made in nearby Sirogojno, which became a world brand. They were worn, among others, by Queen Elisabeth, Raisa Gorbachev, Nancy Reagan.

In the village of Skržuti, and in all the villages of Zlatibor as well, it is quite a usual thing for every woman to know how to knit.

Winters are cold, the climate is severe, whereas wool warms and is abundant. However, the said is typical of all mountain areas, but Zlatibor is the only one to have soared up to the world fashion scene with its handicrafts and shown jumpers with inwoven small “picture-books” woven in them, depicting a rural idyll, mountain hills with small houses, forests, springs, flowers…

20th century, the distaff had been an inseparable tool of every woman in the villages of this region, from childhood to old age. Today, the woolen fiber manufacturing process is mechanized, but one thing has not changed: sheep flocks are still shorn in the same season of the year, usually at the end of April or the beginning of May. Wool Art exclusively uses this pure Zlatibor sheep wool. Apart from making clothing articles by applying the knitting technique, they also often apply the embroidery technique that is characteristic of this region, too.

A Step into the Online Era Stanimirka Golubović is a representative example of the Zlatibor school of knitting. Since the very beginning, she has been firmly certain about the future of this business and she conveyed her knowledge to all women in her family. Greater in number, the women of the Golubović family made one step farther: they established a workshop and gave it the name Wool Art, devised new models, opened a website with a product catalogue, opened a Facebook and Instagram accounts. Apart from the possibility of online buying their standard models and sizes, they will accommodate everyone who wishes to have a jumper, poncho or socks in their own size. The online shop enables their picturesque woolen “picture-books” travel throughout the world today.

We Choose Socks Given the fact that the National Tourism Organization of Serbia’s souvenir shop is faced with great demand for the handmade products bearing the Wool Art seal, we asked Branka Golubović, Stanislava’s granddaughter, to tell us something more about this successful familyowned workshop: “We generate the stimulus for us to preserve the old craft from more than good reactions of the people who respect the quality, tradition and handwork as an art of its own kind. Our products are special and original, and if they are given a proper care, the next two generations may keep on wearing them. Knowing that a knittingwoman’s active life is quite long, from the girl age to the oldest age, knitting as a craft is certainly going to survive in the future as well.” To our question which product they would take with themselves abroad to represent us, Branka says to us: “If I were to opt for the one thing that truly represents Serbia and its traditional works, knitted woolen socks would for sure be our main favorite.”

The Story Begins with Spring Once, a sheep’s fleece was washed in springs; then it was combed by a card, and worsted yarn was spun out by hand. As long as until the mid-

48 Fall/Winter 2019 /2020

BelGuest

Š ta

poneti

iz

S rbije

TOPLINA SA ZLATIBORA Stanimirka Golubović je još šezdesetih godina prošlog veka shvatila da od njenih lepih rukotvorina može da hrani porodicu. Primer su joj bili džemperi iz obližnjeg sela Sirogojna koji su stekli svetsko ime. Nosili su ih, između ostalog, kraljica Elizabeta, Raisa Gorbačov, Nensi Regan.

U selu Skržuti, kao i u svim zlatiborskim selima sasvim je uobičajeno da svaka žena zna da plete. Zime su duge, klima je oštra, a vuna greje i ima je u izobilju. Međutim, to je osobeno za sve planinske oblasti, ali samo se Zlatibor sa svojim rukotvorinama vinuo na svetsku modnu scenu i prikazao džempere u koje su utkane male „slikovnice“ koje prikazuju seosku idilu, planinske bregove sa kućicama, šumarcima, potocima, cvećem...

KORAK U ONLINE DOBA Stanimirka Golubović je pravi reprezent zlatiborske škole pletenja. Od početka, bila je čvrsto uverena u budućnost ovog posla i prenela je znanje svim ženama u svojoj porodici. Brojčano ojačane, Golubovićke su otišle korak dalje: osnovale su radionicu pod imenom Wool Art, osmislile nove modele, postavile sajt sa katalogom proizvoda, otvorile facebook i instagram stranice. Osim mogućnosti online kupovine standardnih modela i veličina, izaćiće u susret i svakom onom ko poželi da ima džemper, pončo ili čarape po osobenoj meri. Sa online prodavnicom, njihove živopisne vunene „slikovnice“ danas putuju širom sveta.

PRIČA POČINJE S PROLEĆEM Nekada se ovčje runo pralo na potocima, potom se češljalo grebenima, a predivo se ispredalo ručno. Sve do sredine prošlog veka preslica je u selima ovog kraja, od detinjstva pa do starosti, bila nerazdvojni pratilac svake žene.

Danas je proces proizvodnje vunenog vlakna mehanizovan, ali nešto se nije pomenilo: stada ovaca se još uvek stižu u isto doba godine, obično krajem aprila ili početkom maja. Wool Art koristi isključivo ovu čistu zlatiborsku ovčju vunu. Osim izrade odevnih predmeta tehnikom pletenja, često na modelima primenjuje i tehniku veza koja je, takođe, osobena za ovo podneblje.

BIRAMO ČARAPE Budući da u suvenirnici Turističke organizacije Srbije vlada velika potražnja za ručnim radovima koje nose pečat Wool Arta, zamolili smo Branku Golubović, Stanislavinu unuku, da nam kaže nešto više o ovoj uspešnoj porodičnoj radionici: „Podsticaj da održimo stari zanat daju nam više nego dobre reakcije ljudi koji poštuju kvalitet, tradiciju i ručni rad kao svojevrsnu umetnost. Naši radovi su posebni i originalni, a uz pravilno održavanje mogu da ih naslede i naredna pokoljenja. Znajući da je radni vek jedne pletilje prilično dug, od devojčica pa sve do najstarijeg doba, pletenje kao zanat će se sigurno održati i u budućnosti.“ Na pitanje, koji bi proizvod ponele u inostranstvo da nas predstavlja, Branka nam kaže: „Kada bi trebalo da izaberem nešto što istinski predstavlja Srbiju i njene tradicionalne radove, svakako bi pletene vunene čarape bile glavni naš favorit. “ BelGuest

INFO: www.wool-art.com Instagram: woolart.handmade Facebook: Wool Art @woolart.handmade e-mail: info@wool-art.com Tel.:+381603844466 Skržuti bb, Užice

W h at

to

T ake

wit h

Yo u

from

RARA Creates with Threads

S erbia

A poncho eaten by moths introduced Ana Brdarac, an economist by profession, to the world of weaving. In the workshop “Snovatica” in Zaječar, she learnt all the “commandments” of the patterns and techniques from the Bible of weaving. Today, amazing handicrafts are created in her workshop RARA, in a fairytalelike village of Donja Kamenica, at the foot of the Old Mountain.

In the Latin language, rara means rare, and Ana is certainly and truly a person one does not meet every day, just as her works with flaming colors are, too; even when light-colored, they are characterized by exuberant silver and gold colors, delicate detail… Her scarfs, cloaks and bags are woven from unusual mixtures of berlin wools, threads, sometimes leather as well; when Ana is in question, however, the materials she works with are but a means for her to express her luxuriant and unceasingly vigilant imagination. She usually says: “The universe always establishes order.”

Below is the story of how that “celestial order” ultimately brought her to Donja Kamenica nearby Knjaževac.

A Student of “Snovatice” Ana is married and is the mother of two children; she has a university degree. She once hoped she would have quite an ordinary life: she began to work as an advisor at the National Employment Service, but was not finally employed for an indefinite period. Then, quite by accident, while searching for a shop where she could fix her favorite poncho her father had given her as a gift, which on its part had also been damaged by moths, she appeared at the door of “Snovatica” – an association for the development of ethno-tourism and hand-weaving from the town of Zaječar, which also had the workshops where future weavers were being trained. Carried away by the atmosphere at the Association and having no permanent employment, Ana registered herself at the school, mastered weaving patterns, became closely familiar with the weaving loom, and most importantly, discovered that she had a gift, that the forms and colors easily flowed out of her, like water does from a spring. At that moment already, she came to an idea that this knack of hers should be raised to the level of haute couture, provoking with brilliant colors, blends of the warm and the cold, the rough and the soft.

50 Fall/Winter 2019 /2020

BelGuest

A Rare Bird The “celestial order”, i.e. synchronicity, as the phenomenon is referenced in science, wanted Ana to meet her fellow citizen Djordje Ilić, a member of the Birds Protection Association, who was showing her birds catalogues, only to make her realize in that way, and to her big surprise, that her works already contained a myriad of nuances, ornaments and unimaginable blends of colors. It was then that she consciously started weaving, inspired by this explosively colorful world. Thus, the creatures of the blue quail, tropical toucan, violet-crowned hummingbird, bird-of-paradise, snow-white howl… have been translated into her scarfs. When we asked Ana how she explained this inspiration of hers, she told us: “My arms are like widespread wings. I’m a rare bird, that’s why birds’ feathers inspire me. Based on those nuances, I look for appropriate natural yarns: cotton, wool, silk so that the weaving could have that softness and warmth, colorfulness and vivacity of a bird’s wings, and artificial yarns are only here as a contrast providing the dimension of the urban, since rare birds must live in a contemporary world.

Fashion insists on creative toying and provocation, and my creations are modern indeed.”

Loneliness and Identification Ana is often alone, that’s the nature of her job, but she says that she never feels lonely: “Everything surrounding me and surrounding us is here. I’m more preoccupied with the mystery of loneliness. Its movement, since nothing moves so magically as loneliness, and nothing experiences such a transformation as it does. I’m alone just like the materials in which I want to weave all emotions – both mine and those of other people – because I insist on recognition in what I do.” Ana does not only weave the birds’ world. She absorbs herself in everything surrounding her and makes efforts to weave the essence of nature into her each “knit”: “I don’t silence one single tone of nature; I don’t desultorily perform one single bird, spider, tiny little bug,” Ana tells us.Her workshop is located in the complex of the former leather fancy goods manufacturing plant, where again, through lucky coincidences, she was taken by Oliver Jelenković, the former owner of the plant, who Ana calls a proper gentleman.

Today, she sits at the weaving loom and weaves, looking out onto the mysterious little church of The Most Holy Mother of God, erected in the 14th century, which with its two towers reminds us of a mediaeval castle. To a careful spotter, this stone beauty changes itself from day to day, from hour to hour. It is different when floodlit, or sunlit or moonlit… Ana has transferred some of the most beautiful plays of lights on the façade of the church of the Most Holy Mother of God onto her scarfs.

Transfiguration of the Ordinary into the Unordinary The workshop and the brand she has been creating are called RARA – the basic meaning of the name being rare, and in a figurative meaning – unique, authentic, unrepeatable, one-of-akind. Why exactly she chose that name, Ana told us: “To be rare means to be individual; today, rarities are both rare and nice. In the midst of the existence of the need for everyone to look the same, it’s a rare thing to see something nice, and it’s also nice to see something rare. I want to initiate in people the need for individuality. I feel I can give a start to something similar. I fight for that, although I know I’m one of the rare. If I weave a scarf, it’s going to be different and it’s not only going to warm. I put the aesthetic before the functional. If I weave a bag, it’s also going to be different, such that it not only may contain what an ordinary woman’s bag does, since it’s not an ordinary bag, but one whole life not perceived through the material, but through the spiritual. A bag sufficient for a freedom, or a dress suitable for the sky.

While sitting at the weaving loom, I feel like Gaudy, and Beethoven, and Dali, and Warhol, and Basquiat, and Pollock, and Manet, and Monet… I weave until I’m finished. What? My own self, and someone. And someone, yet again my own self. In the end a product – renaissance.

That’s the essence of my art – transforming the ordinary into the unordinary, the unexpected,” inspiringly concludes our collocutor.

Milena Mihaljčić Photo: Rara Design

Ana’s Creative Credo “I don’t want weaving to remain in the frameworks of tradition and the Serbian cultural heritage; I don’t want it to tell a folklore story or to only be a romantic reflection of the times gone, but rather to get into conflict with uniformed, depersonalized clothing and win, as haute couture. I weave and, in the process of synesthesia through nuances, colors and a thread, offer the watcher a metaphor that may be intriguing.”

A Message that Sheds Light When Ana sold one of her first scarfs via the internet to a woman from Pula, she received a message reading: “It’s heavenly. I wish you to wrap the whole planet Earth with your scarfs.”

BelGuest

Fall/Winter 2019/2020

51

Š T A

P O N E T I

I Z

S R B I J E

RARA NITIMA STVARA Anu Brdarac, ekonomistu po obrazovanju, jedan pončo koji su izgrizli moljci odveo je u svet tkanja. U radionici Snovatica u Zaječaru naučila je sve „zapovesti” prepletaja iz Biblije tkanja. Danas, u njenoj tkačnici RARA u bajkovitom selu Donja Kamenica podno Stare Planine nastaju očaravajuće rukotvorine.

Rara na latinskom jeziku znači retka, a Ana je odista nesvakidašnja ličnost, isto koliko i njeni radovi koji plamte bojama, a i kada su svetli, razigrani su srebrom, zlatom, delikatnim detaljima…

Njeni šalovi, ogrtači i torbe satkani od su neobičnih mešavina vunica, konaca, katkad i kože, ali kada je Ana u pitanju materijali s kojima radi tek su sredstvo za ispoljavanje njene bujne i neprestano budne mašte. Ima običaj da kaže: „Univerzum uvek sve uredi”, a evo i kako ju je „nebeski poredak” doveo u Donju Kamenicu kraj Knjaževca.

UČENICA SNOVATICA Ana je udata, majka je dvoje dece, završila je fakultet. Nadala se običnom životu: počela je kao savetnica u nacionalnoj službi za zapošljavanje, ali nisu je primili za stalno. Onda je, sasvim slučajno, tragajući za radnjom u kojoj bi mogla da popravi omiljeni pončo koji joj je poklonio otac, a koji su prilično oštetili moljci, zakucala na vrata Snovatica – udruženja za razvoj etnoturizma i ručnog tkanja iz Zaječara koje je u svom sastavu imalo i radionice u kojima su obučavani budući tkači. Poneta atmosferom u Udruženju i nemajući stalno zaposlenje, Ana se prijavila u školu, ovladala prepletajama, srodila se s razbojem i što je najvažnije, otkrila da je darovita, da oblici i boje iz nje lako teku, poput vode iz izvora. I već tada joj se rodila ideja da ovo umeće treba podići na nivo visoke mode koja provocira jarkim bojama, spojevima toplog i hladnog, grubog i mekog.

52 Fall/Winter 2019 /2020

BelGuest

ANIN STVARALAČKI KREDO “Ne želim da tkanje ostane u okvirima tradicije i srpske kultune baštine, ne želim da donosi folklornu priču ili da bude smo romantični odsjaj prošlih vremena, već da se sukobi sa uniformisanim, obezličenim odevanjem i odnese pobedu, kao visoka moda. Tkam i posmatraču postupkom sinestezije kroz tonove, boje i konac nudim metaforu koja ume da zaintrigira.“

RETKA PTICA „Nebeski poredak” ili sinhronicitet, kako se već ta pojava naziva u nauci, hteo je da se Ana upozna sa sugrađaninom Đorđem Ilićem iz Udruženja za zaštitu ptica. Đorđe joj je pokazivao kataloge ptica, a ona je, na svoje veliko iznenađenje, shvatila da se bezbroj nijansi, ornamenata i nezamislivih spojeva boja već nalaze u njenim radovima. I tada je počela da svesno radi na tkanjima nadahnutim ovim eksplozivno šarenim svetom. Tako su u šalove pretočena bića plave prepelice, tropskog tukana, ljubičastog kolibrija, rajske ptice, snežne sove... Kada smo upitali Anu kako objašnjava ovu svoju inspiraciju, rekla nam je: „Moje su ruke poput raširenih krila.

Retka sam ptica, zato me perje ptica nadahnjuje. Na osnovu tih nijansi tražim odgovarajuća prirodna prediva: pamuk, vunu, svilu, da bi tkanje imalo onu mekotu i toplinu, šarenilo i razigranost ptičjih krila, a veštačka prediva su tu kao kontrast koja daju dimenziju urbanog, jer retke ptice moraju da žive u savremenom svetu. Moda insistira na kreativnim poigravanjma i provokaciji, a moje kreacije jesu moderne.“

SAMOĆA I POISTOVEĆIVANJE Ana je često sama, takva je priroda njenog posla, ali kaže da se nikada ne oseća usamljenom: „Tu je sve što me okružuje i što nas okružuje. Više sam zaokupljena misterijom samoće. Njenim kretanjem, jer ništa se ne kreće tako čarobno kao samoća i ništa ne doživi takav preobražaj kao ona.

Sama sam poput materijala u koje želim da utkam sve emocije – i svoje i tuđe – jer u onome što radim držim do prepoznavanja”. Ana ne tka samo ptičiji svet. Udubljuje se u sve što je okružuje i nastoji da u svako svoje „pletivo” utka esenciju prirode: „Nijedan ton prirode ne utišam, nijednu pticu, pauka, bubicu ne ispratim ovlaš“, kaže nam Ana. Njena radionica se nalazi u sastavu nekadašnjeg pogona za proizvodnju kožne galanterije, u koju ju je opet, srećnim spletom okolnosti, doveo Oliver Jelenković, bivši vlasnik pogona, kojeg Ana naziva velikim kavaljerom. Ona danas sedi za razbojem i tka gledajući na tajanstvenu crkvicu Presvete Bogorodice iz 14. veka koja, sa dve svoje kule, podseća na srednjovekovni zamak. Za pažljivog posmatrača, ova kamena lepotica menja se iz dana u dan, iz časa u čas. Drugačija je pod reflektorima, obasjana suncem, mesečinom... Ana je na šalove prenele neke od najlepših igri svetlosti na fasadi crkve Presvete Bogorodice.

PORUKA KOJA OBASJAVA Kada je Ana preko interneta ženi iz Pule prodala jedan od svojih prvih šalova, stigla joj je poruka sledeće sadržine: „On je božanstven. Želim vam da vašim šalovima obavijete čitavu zemaljsku kuglu.“

PREOBRAŽAJ OBIČNOG U NEOBIČNO Radionica i brend koji stvara zove se RARA - retka u osnovnom značenju, a u prenesenom i jedinstvena, samosvojna, neponovljiva, unikatna. O tome zašto je baš odabrala to ime, Ana nam je rekla: „Biti redak znači biti individualan, а retkosti su danas i retke i lepe. U veku potrebe da svi izgledaju istovetno, retko je videti lepo i isto je tako lepo videti retko. Želim da podstaknem u ljudima potrebu za individualnošću. Osećam se tako da mogu pokrenuti slično. Borim se za to, iako znam da sam jedna od retkih. Ako tkam šal, on će biti druačiji i neće samo grejati. Za mene je estetsko ispred funkcionalnog. Ako tkam torbu i ona će biti drugačija, takva da u nju zaista stane, ne sadržaj jedne obične ženske tašne jer to nije obična tašna, već život, ne sagledan kroz materijalno već kroz duhovno. Torbu dovoljnu za slobodu ili haljinu prigodnu za nebo.

Osetim se za razbojem poput Gaudija i Betovena i Dalija i Vorhola i Baskijata i Poloka i Manea i Monea… I tkam dok ne istkam. Šta? Sebe, i nekoga. I nekoga, a opet sebe. I na kraju proizvod – preporod. U tome je moja umetnost, u pretvaranju običnog u neobično, neočekivano,” nadahnuto zaključjuje naša sagovornica.

Milena Mihaljčić Foto: Rara dizajn

BelGuest

Fall/Winter 2019/2020

53

E D E N

C ompetition

Extraordinary Destinations of Health and Wellness Tourism

Radan Mountain

At this year’s national competition within the framework of the EDEN project of the European Commission’s program promoting developing destinations, Kuršumlija is the winner, only to be followed by the destinations of Pećinci and Kruševac. Pursuant to the criteria, these destinations have in their territories a spa or a climatic place, as well as a protected natural area, and have a practice of providing health and wellness services and giving a quality tourism offer.

Kuršumlija, remains of the church ot The Most Holy Mother of God

Kuršumlija – to Fit One’s Body and Soul Kuršumlija is surrounded by the luxuriant forests of Kopaonik and Radan, and there is the miraculous Devil’s Town (Djavolja Varoš) in its territory, as well as the three spas – Prolom, Lukovska, and Kuršumlijska. The mountains, clean air, hot springs and a smile on hosts’ faces are a real “cure” for all those who need a moment of rest in this busy time.

The proofs that this region has always been a good place to live in are seen in the existence of numerous archaeological sites; it is exactly here that, in the 12th century, the originator of the Nemanjić rulers’ dynasty erected his first two legacies – the monasteries of St. Nicholas and The Most Holy Mother of God.

54 Fall/Winter 2019 /2020

BelGuest

Kuršumlijska Banja spa is located about ten kilometers or so away from the town. It is reputed for its medicinal waters, peloid mud and the climate with a beneficial influence on one’s health. It was known as early as in the Roman time, whereas Lukovska Banja spa, situated on the slopes of Kopaonik, is one of the youngest spas in Serbia. Its followers were attracted to it due to its springs (as many as 37) of different temperatures and specific physical-chemical characteristics, a natural inhalatorium and numerous attractions enabling visitors to use the amenities of the medicinal waters. Its guests also have at their disposal the hotel’s indoor and outdoor swimming-pools. You may improve your health condition by means of the therapeutic procedures including natural factors and using the Wellness Center, which offers a range of possibilities for you to refresh your body and spirit. At the same time, walks and sports activities are also recommended.

Prolom Spa Wellness Center

Lukovska Spa springs

Prolom water springs from the depths of Radan mountain.

Because of its extraordinary balneological features and high alkalinity, it is classified into “waters of youth”. In Prolom Banja spa, the water is used in all hotel facilities. Under the supervision of doctors, it helps cure many diseases and raises the vitality of the organism. The contemporary wellness complex offers numerous services for you to rest and relieve from everyday stress. Apart from the in- and outdoor swimmingpools, the Prolom sea (a swimming-pool with salty water), saunas, massages, a fitness room, a gym, a beauty salon, a fun hall etc. are offered as well. In the evening hours, cultural and music events are organized in the Spa.

Radan mountain is a part of the old Rhodope massif, where rare flora and fauna have found their shelter; of them, several species date back in prehistory; it has been declared a Nature Park. The mountain is also known for antigravitational phenomena still unexplained by science, and the Devil’s Town is the most famous phenomenon. In this space, earthen towers of 2-15 m in height and with stone blocks on top are grouped.

Such a relief is rare and is a result of a specific erosion process.

A total of 202 figures, the springs “Devil’s Water” and “The Red Spring”, a small river of a red color, the remains of mine pits and the Church of St. Petka, erected on the foundations of an ancient sanctuary, stir the imagination, so such a large number of legends about how it was created doesn’t surprise. The Devil’s Town is protected as a Monument of Nature. Tourists are offered a well-organized guides’ service.

Spring “Devil’s Water”

BelGuest

Fall/Winter 2019/2020

55

Obedska Pond

Village of Kupinovo

Pećinci – for a Perfect Day Apart from its rich natural and cultural heritage, Pećinci is also recognized for the people who make this town charming and rarely amazing. Industrious people of Srem will proudly tell every guest the story of Obedska Pond, the mediaeval fortification of Kupinik, as well as the geothermal waters offering a chance for the creation of a spa center.

Obedska Pond is a world-known region, which has been the habitat of numerous plant and animal species and haven for the birds’ world for thousands of years. It is inscribed on the list of swamps of international significance and the list of the regions of exceptional significance for the birds of Europe. Visitors are offered pre-prepared activity programs. You can rent a boat, catch fish, watch birds… You can also opt for a catamaran ride, trekking tours, such as “Routes of the Lilies of the Valley”, “Paths of the Horse-Shoe”… Walks through the untouched nature open up your senses, and you should learn from the guide how to “listen to” nature and touch its primordial strength. In this area, the monastery of Obed is also situated – according to a legend, it was erected by Angelina, Despot Djuradj Branković’s mother.

At the periphery of Obedska Pond, there is the village of Kupinovo, where you can see the remains of the capital town, the last outpost of the Serbian mediaeval state before the invasion of the Ottomans. In the village, there are preserved buildings of folk architecture and the Church of St. Luka. Other villages, too, have their trumps. In Ogar, Aksentije’s Hovel, a family house of the 18th century is worth visiting. In Donji Tovarnik, one should visit the traditional Swine-Herd’s Cottage.

Pećinci is also recognized for its Serbian Museum of Bread, where the objects that were once used in Serbia for producing bread are collected, preserved and presented to visitors.

Kruševac – a Public Garden of Strength and Beauty According to a legend, Kruševac was named after the Moravian stone “krušac”, which was used to build the capital of Prince Lazar. Around the ramparts of the mediaeval fortification, a modern city emerged. The banks of the Rasina River, the mountain of Jastrebac and Ribarska Banja spa are the favorite place visited by the lovers of nature and all people from Kruševac.

In the time of Prince Lazar, Kruševac was the center of the social and spiritual life of Serbia, and the architecture and achievements in painting and chiseling are characterized by a special style, known as “The Moravian School”. A representative example of this school is the Chruch Lazarica, erected as a court church in 1377. It is located in Archaeological Park, to which the preserved parts of Lazar’s city, the National Museum and the Monument to Prince Lazar also belong. The Monument to the Heroes of Kosovo, placed in the main city square, is also a symbol of Kruševac.

Ribarska Banja spa is a natural oasis for rest, curing, recreation and entertainment. Its thermal-mineral springs are considered to have been used for over 4000 years. This convalescence resort reputed since ancient times also offers a modern wellness and spa center with an in- and outdoor swimming-pool, a Turkish hammam, saunas, a beauty, massage and treatment center. There is also an amphitheater for concerts and theatric performances.

The whole region is interwoven by trekking trails, one of which leads to a watermill-restaurant, and another to sports terrains and Aqua Park… It is also worth mentioning that the green ambience and numerous possibilities of recreation on nearby Jastrebac, the mountain which is famous for its rich forests and mountaineering, hunting and fishing terrains, contribute to one’s feeling nice during a stay.

Ribarska Spa Wellness Center

Rozana Sazdić Photo: Rozana Sazdić

56 Fall/Winter 2019 /2020

Mountain Jastrebac

BelGuest

K O N K U R S

E D E N

IZUZETNE DESTINACIJE ZDRAVSTVENOG I VELNES TURIZMA Na ovogodišnjem nacionalnom konkursu u okviru projekta EDEN, programa Evropske komisije kojim se promovišu destinacije u razvoju, pobednik je Kuršumlija, a prateće destinacije Pećinci i Kruševac . Ove destinacije, shodno kriterijumima, na svojim teritorijama imaju banju ili klimatsko mesto, kao i zaštićeno prirodno područje, ali i praksu u pružanju zdravstvenih i velnes usluga i kvalitetnu turističku ponudu.

KURŠUMLIJA – PO MERI TELA I DUŠE Kuršumliju okružuju raskošne šume Kopaonika i Radana, a na njenoj teritoriji nalazi se čudesna Đavolja varoš, kao i tri banje – Prolom, Lukovska i Kuršumlijska. Planine, čist vazduh, topli izvori i osmeh na licu domaćina pravi su „lek“ za sve kojima je, u ovom brzom dobu, potreban trenutak predaha.

Dokazi da je ovo područje oduvek bilo dobro mesto za život je postojanje brojnih arheoloških lokaliteta, a upravo je ovde, u 12. veku, rodonačelnik vladarske dinastije Nemanjić podigao svoje prve dve zadužbine - manastire Sv. Nikola i Sv. Bogorodica.

Kuršumlijska Banja udaljena je od grada desetak kilometara. Cenjena je zbog lekovitih voda, peloida i klime koja blagotvorno utiče na zdravlje. Bila je poznata još u rimsko doba, dok je Lukovska Banja, smeštena na padinama Kopaonika, jedna od najmlađih banja u Srbiji. Poklonike je stekla zahvaljujući izvorima (čak 37) različite temperature i specifičnih fizičko-hemijskih osobina, prirodnom inhalatorijumu i brojnim sadržajima koji omogućuju korišćenje blagodeti lekovitih voda. Gostima su na raspolaganju i hotelski zatvoreni i otvoreni bazeni. Zdravstveno stanje može se unaprediti terapijskim procedurama u koje su uključeni prirodni faktori i korišćenjem Velnes centra koji ima niz mogućnosti za okrepljenje tela i duha. Uz to, preporučuju se šetnje i sportske aktivnosti.

Prolom voda izvire iz dubina Radan planine. Zbog izvanrednih balneoloških svojstava i visoke alkalnosti svrstava se u „vode mladosti“. U Prolom Banji Prolom voda se koristi u svih hotelskim objektima. Pod nadzorom lekara ona pomaže u lečenju mnogih boljki i pospešuje vitalnost organizma. Savremeni vellnes kompleks pruža brojne usluge za opuštanje i oslobađanje od svakodnevnog stresa. Pored otvoreno-zatvorenih bazena i Prolom mora (bazena sa slanom vodom), u ponudi su saune, masaže, Fintes sala, teretana, salon lepote , sala za zabavu… U večernjim satima, u Banji se organizujuu kulturni i muzički programi.

Planina Radan, deo starog rodopskog masiva, gde je pribežište našao redak biljni i životinjski svet, od kojih je nekoliko vrsta iz praistorije, proglašena je Parkom prirode. Za planinu se vezuju i antigravitacone pojave koje nauka još nije objasnila, a najpoznatiji fenomen je Đavolja varoš. U ovom prostoru grupisane su zemljane kule, visoke od 2 do 15 m, sa kamenim blokovima na vrhu. Ovakav reljef veoma je redak i rezultat je specifičnog erozivnog procesa.

202 figure, izvori „Đavolja voda“ i „Crveno vrelo“, rečica crvene boje, ostaci rudarskih jama i crkva Sv. Petke, podignuta na temeljima starog svetilišta, raspiruju maštu, te ne čudi veliki broj legendi o njenom nastanku. Đavolja varoš je zaštićena kao Spomenik prirode. Za turiste je organizovana vodička služba.

Prolom Spa swiming pool The Devil’s Town

PEĆINCI – ZA SAVRŠEN DAN Pored bogate prirodne i kulturne baštine, Pećinci se prepoznaju i po ljudima koji ovaj grad čine šarmantnim i nesvakidašnjim. Vredni Sremci će svakom gostu s ponosom pričati o Obedskoj bari , o srednjovekovnom utvrđenju Kupinik, kao i geotermalnim vodama koje nude šansu za stvaranje banjskog centra.

Obedska bara je svetski poznato područje koje je hiljadama godina dom brojnim biljnim i životinjskim vrstama i raj za ptičji svet. Upisana na listu močvara od međunarodnog značaja i listu područja od izuzetnog značaja za ptice Evrope. Za posetioce postoje pripremljeni programi aktivnosti.

Može se iznajmiti čamac, pecati, posmatrati ptice … Na raspolaganju je vožnja katamaranom. pešačke ture poput „Puteva đurđevka“, „Staze potkovice“… Šetnje kroz netaknutu prirodu otvaraju čula, a od vodiča treba naučiti kako se „sluša“ priroda i dotiče njena iskonska snaga. U ovom ambijentu nalazi se i manastir Obed, koji je prema predanju podigla Angelina, majka despota Đurađa Brankovića.

Na obodu Obedske bare je selo Kupinovo gde se mogu videti ostaci prestonog grada, poslednjeg uporišta srpske srednjovekovne države pred najezdom Osmanlija. U selu postoje očuvani objekti narodnog graditeljstva i crkva Sv. Luke. I druga sela imaju svoje adute. U Ogaru pažnju zavređuje Aksentijev kućerak, porodična kuća iz 18. veka, a u Donjem Tovarniku tradicionalana Svinjarska koleba. Pećinci se prepoznaju i po Srpskom muzeju hleba koji sakuplja, čuva i prezentuje predmete koji su se nekada koristili u Srbiji u procesu proizvodnje hleba.

KRUŠEVAC - PERIVOJ SNAGE I LEPOTE Prema jednoj legendi Kruševac je dobio ime po moravskom kamenu krušac koji je korišćen za izgradnju prestonice kneza Lazara. Oko zidina srednjovekovnog utvrđenja izrastao je moderan grad. Omiljena mesta ljubitelja prirodei svih Kruševljana su obale Rasine, planina Jastrebac i Ribarska Banja.

U doba kneza Lazara Kruševac je bio centar društvenog i duhovnog života Srbije, a graditeljstvo i dometi u slikarstvu i klesarstvu odlikuje poseban stil, poznat kao „Moravska škola“. Reprezentativni primera ove škole je Crkva Lazarica, podignuta 1377. kao dvorska crkva. Nalazi se u Arheološkom parku, kome pripadaju i očuvani delovi Lazarevog grada, Narodni muzej i Spomenik knezu Lazaru. Simbol Kruševca je i Spomenik kosovskim junacima, postavljen na glavnom gradskom trgu.

Ribarska Banja je prirodna oaza za odmor, lečenje, rekreaciju i zabavu.

Njeni termomineralni izvori upotrebjavaju se, smatra se, preko 4000 godina. Od davnina cenjeno lečilište ima savremeni wellness i spa centar sa otvoreno-zatvorenim bazenom, turskim amamom, saunama, centrom za ulepšavanje, masaže i tretmane. Izgrađen je i amfiteatar za koncerte i pozorišne predstave. Čitav predeo isprepletan je stazama za pešačenje. Jedna od njih vodi do restorana–vodenice, druga do sportskih terena i Aqua parka… I nije na odmet reći da lepom osećaju boravka doprinosi zeleni ambijent i brojne mogućnosti za rekreaciju na obližnjem Jastrepcu. Planina je poznata po šumskom bogatstvu, terenima za planinarenje, lov, ribolov…

Priredila Rozana Sazdić Foto: Rozana Sazdić

58 Fall/Winter 2019 /2020

BelGuest

Ribarska Spa swiming pool

For Health and Vitality ZA ZDRAVLJE I VITALNOST The “Agens” Special Rehabilitation Hospital is a contemporary medical institution achieving a synergy between the protocols of physical medicine and rehabilitation and natural-balneological factors.

The mineral water of Mataruška Banja has exceptional features – it belongs in the group of sodium, magnesium, hydro-carbonate and sulfurous hyper-thermae, and its main therapeutic value reflects in significant amounts of hydrogen sulfide. Medicinal, warm water is applied in the rehabilitation of patients after the injury of the central and peripheral nervous systems, fractures and injuries, and in the treatment of rheumatic and gynecological diseases as well. Apart from temperature regulation, the water is also used for hydrotherapeutic procedures such as bathing, showering, spraying, hydrokinetic therapy…

During your stay in this institution, you are looked after by a team of exceptional doctors, which consists of specialists in physical medicine and rehabilitation, internal medicine and rheumatology, neurology, special education, and a highly-professional personnel of physiotherapists and nurses.

A quality medical service and healthcare – all in one place: AGENS Specijalna bolnica za rehabilitaciju “Agens” savremena je medicinska ustanova koja ostvaruje sinergiju između protokola fizikalne medicine i rehabilitacije i prirodno-balneoloških faktora.

Mineralna voda Mataruške Banje ima izuzetna svojstva - pripada kategoriji natrijum, magnezijum, hidrokarbonatnih i sumporovitih hipertermi, a njena glavna terapeutska vrednost su značajne količine vodonik sulfida. Lekovita, topla voda primenjuje se u rehabilitaciji pacijenata nakon oštećenja centralnog i perifernog nervnog sistema, preloma I povreda, kao i u lečenju reumatskih i ginekoloških oboljenja. Uz regulaciju temperature, voda se koristiti za hidroterapijske procedure poput kupanja, tuširanja, orošavanja, hidrokineziterapije…

Tokom boravka u ovoj ustanovi o Vama brine tim vrhunski lekara koji čine specijalisti fizikalne medicine i rehabilitacije, interne medicine i reumatologije, neurologije, defektologije, kao I visoko stručni kadar fizioterapeuta i medicinskih sestara.

Kvalitetna medicinska usluga i briga o zdravlju na jednom mestu - AGENS

INFO: AGENS Special Hospital, Mataruška Banja • T: +381 36 541 10 22 • E- mail: agens@agensmb.rs • www.agensmb.rs BelGuest

Fall/Winter 2019/2020

59

W ellness

W inter

in

S okobanja

Bathing in Water and in the Air The main promoters of Sokobanja are its guests, who – by using the oldest and the most reliable “marketing tool”, i.e. conveying one’s own experiences by “word of mouth” – testify to the benefits they have received during their stay in Sokobanja. That’s why an extra bed is always requested in all seasons of the year.

The Turkish Hammam

60 Fall/Winter 2019 /2020

BelGuest

There are six medicinal water springs in Sokobanja, and it is surrounded by the mountains from which therapeutic air comes. It inherits an almost two-thousandyear tradition of a spa convalescent resort. The Turkish Hammam of the 15th century, which was raised on the foundations of an old ancient bath, is a symbol of the Spa. Today, there is a Wellness Center in it – with its modern therapeutic methods, but both its interior and exterior have remained the same as the edifice renovated in the 19th century.

Radon like a Pill Bathing in the swimming-pools of the female and male bathrooms of the Old Hammam is a unique experience. Our predecessors used to enjoy the warm water here and its beneficial evaporation for centuries. One of the interesting memories from the history of the Hammam is a story related to a great Serbian ruler – Prince Miloš Obrenović – who was the one to renovate the bath. Even today, there is the prince’s bathtub in the room where he used to bathe alone and separated from others and a hardly visible opening in the wall of the room, through which opening he would secretly watch undressed women bathing in there. The Hammam receives water from two tepid springs, and there is also a separate room for inhaling the water vapor. The water contains a noble gas, radon, which is therapeutic for the lungs and the respiratory organs, and also has other unusual features – as if there are the ingredients of some magical pill in it, which both tranquilize and enrapture at the same time.

Taming Managerial Stress The Banjica Bath operates within the Special Hospital of Sokobanja Spa and water is supplied to it from the two springs of a different mineral composition, for which reason different discomforts and diseases are also treated here. The water of the one spring is medicinally beneficial for psychoneuroses and injuries of peripheral nerves.

Baths in this water are also recommended for all those suffering from the so-called “managerial disease” and exposed to long-term stress. The other spring of the Banjica Bath is medicinal for all kinds of the respiratory organ diseases. Banjica also deals with the preparations of sportspeople and also conducts personalized wellness programs.

Lemon Spa The Soko Terme Wellness Center is built on the riverbank of the Moravica, immediately next to the thermal spring – known by people under the name of Lemon Spa. The Lemon Spa’s water contains sulphuretted hydrogen, calcium, magnesium, and the other minerals that help treat rheumatic discomforts and post-injury conditions.

Soko Terme consists of two indoor swimming-pools and one outdoor connected by means of the “water tunnel”, so that bathers “swim out” onto the fresh air with but one stroke, which is a special experience in the winter months. In Soko Terme, there are also numerous accompanying attractions: the Finnish sauna, the Turkish bath, the Salt Room, the Jacuzzi, the Cosmetic Salon, as well as the physiotherapeutic block for massages of different kinds.

Nataly Residence Nataly Residence is a newly-built hotel of the suite type, within which there is the Nataly Spa Center with the indoor swimming-pool, the Finnish Sauna, the Steam Bath, hydro-massaging bathtubs, the Salt Room, tropical showers, the Tepidarium, etc., as well as massage and cosmetic treatment salons.

Apart from the perfectly equipped Spa Center, the guests who stay here also have that special pleasure of staying in the panoramic suites with grassy terraces, the most spacious one being on the roof of the Residence, offering one of the most beautiful panoramic views, and also being the place where one can draw deep breaths of the healthy and refreshing air coming from the surrounding mountains.

BelGuest Photos: TO Sokobanja, Soko Thermae, Nataly Spa

BelGuest

Fall/Winter 2019/2020

61

Garden of the Open-up Heart Of the events during the winter season, we specially recommend the “Garden of the Openup Heart”, which takes place on January 1st. The Spa’s guests and local population are offered a good time with trumpet-players and animators and catering consisting of warm potions and traditional specialties of Sokobanja – the potato pie, the sour cabbage pie, buns and cornbread with the cheese of Sokobanja, vanilla cookies, honey cookies…

Sokobanja Special Hospital Spa Centre

Female bathroom of the Old Hammam Now, Skating as Well The skating rink with the sleighing rink at the very heart of the Spa is also a new attraction in the winter season. This prefab sporting facility with artificial ice will be a real challenge for the youngest guests.

Soko Terme indoor swiming pool

Nataly Residence The Spring Sun The former pride of Sokobanja – the “Sun” Hotel – is going to be reopened in the spring of 2020.

The Hotel will have 4 stars, 3 congress halls and about 150 rooms and apartments, which will have a capacity to accommodate up to 500 guests. The Hotel will also have two indoor and one outdoor swimming-pools, and the wellness and spa attractions will be offered on a thousand square meters and will be a real oasis for guests to enjoy and relax.

Nataly Spa professional team

INFO: TO Sokobanja • Trg Oslobođenja 2 • Tel.: + 381 18 833 988 • www.sokobanja.rs

62 Fall/Winter 2019 /2020

BelGuest

W E L N E S S

Z I M A

U

S O K O B A N J I

K U P k e U V ODI I V A Z DUHU Glavni promoteri Banje su njeni gosti, koji najstarijom i najpouzdanijom „marketinškom alatkom“ – prenošenjem sopstvenih iskustva „od usta do usta“ svedoče o dobrobitima koja im je boravak u Sokobanji pružio. Zato se u svim sezonama ovde uvek traži mesto više.

Future look of the Sun Hotel

Sokobanja ima šest izvora lekovitih voda i okružena je planinama sa kojih dopire blagotvoran vazduh. Baštini tradiciju banjskog lečilišta koja je duga bezmalo dvehiljade godina. Simbol Banje je Turski amam iz 15. veka koji je podignut na temeljima starog antičkog kupatila. Danas se u njemu nalazi Wellness centar - savremen po terapijskim metodama, ali je i njegova unutrašnjost i spoljašnost ostala istovetana zdanju renoviranom u 19. veku.

RADON KAO PILULA Kupanje u bazenima ženskog i muškog kupatila starog Amama jedinstveno je iskustvo. Ovde su stolećima u toploj vodi i njenim blagotvornim isparenjima uživali naši preci. Jedno od zanimljivih sećanja iz istorije Amama je priča vezana za velikog srpskog vladara – kneza Miloša Obrenovića – koji je kupatilo i obnovio. U zidu prostorije gde se knez zasebno kupao i danas postoji njegova kada i jedva vidljivi otvor kroz koji je tajno odmeravao razodevene kupačice. Amam dobija vodu iz dva topla izvora, a postoji i posebna prostorija za udisanje vodene pare. Voda sadrži plemeniti gas radon koji je lekovit za pluća i disajne organe, ali ima i druga neobična svojstva – kao da u njemu postoje sastojci neke čarobne pilule koji istovremeno i umiruju i ushićuje.

Tursko kupatilo sastavni je deo Specijalne bolnice Sokobanja, koja gostima nudi i druge sadržaje poput finske saune, biserne kupke, hidromasaže, ručnih masaža, kao i raznovrsne fitness programe.

KROĆENJE MENADŽERSKOG STRESA Još jedno banjsko kupalište s tradicijom je Banjica koja radi u sastavu Specijalne bolnice i snabdeva se vodom iz dva izvora različitog mineralnog sastava, te se ovde leče i različite tegobe i oboljenja. Voda se jednog izvora lekovita je za psihoneuroze i povrede perifernih nerava. Takođe, kupke u ovoj vodi se preporučuje svima koji boluju od „menadžerske bolesti“ i izloženi su dugotrajnom stresu. Drugi izvor Kupatila Banjica lekovit je za sve vrste oboljenja disajnih orgrana. Banjica se bavi i pripremama sportista kao i personalizovanim wellness programima.

BelGuest

Fall/Winter 2019/2020

63

LIMUN BANJA Poznati i popularni Wellness centar su Soko Terme, izgrađene neposredno kraj termalnog izvora – u narodu poznatog pod imenom Limun banja. Voda Limun banje sadži sumporvodonik, kalcijum, magnezijum i druge minerale koji pomažu u lečnju reumatskih tegoba i stanja posle povreda. Soko Terme imaju dva unutrašnja i jedan spoljni bazen koji je povezan „vodenim tunelom“, tako da kupači jednim zamahom „isplivavaju“ na svež vazduh, što je u zimskim mesecima poseban doživljaj.

Ovde postoje i brojni prateći sadržaji: finska sauna, tursko kupatilo, slana soba, jacuzzi, kozmetički salon, kao i fizioterapeutski blok za razne vrste masaža.

Soko Terme spolja deluje kao zamak, a unutrašnjost je ispunjena slikama i skulpturama mitoloških bića i bogova grčko-rimske civilizacije.

KONAK NATALY Konak Nataly je novoizgrađeni hotel apartmanskog tipa u okviru kojeg radi Nataly Spa centar sa zatvorenim bazenom, finskom saunom, parnim kupatilom, hidromasažnim kadama, slanom sobom, tropskim tuševima, tepidarijumom... Takođe, otvoren su i saloni za masažu i kozmetičke tretmane. Uz savršeno opremljen Spa centar gosti koji ovde borave imaju i posebno zadovoljstvo boravka u panorama apartmanima koji imaju travnate terase. Najveća od njih nalazi se na krovu konaka. Ona pruže jedan od najlepših panoramskih pogleda, ali je i mesto gde se punim plućima može udisati zdrav i osvežavajući vazduh koji dopire s okolnih planina.

Uz ova četiri Wellness centra, turistički poslenici Sokobanje nude i druge opuštajuće i okrepljujuće sadražaje: šetnje stazama kraj reke Moravice, obilazak tvrđave Soko-grad, degustaciju lekovitog rtanjskog čaja koji proizvodi renomirano preduzeće Adonis, izlete do vodopada Ripaljka, Bovanskog jezera, tajnovite planine Rtanj...

BelGuest Foto: Turistička organizacija Sokobanja, Soko Treme, Nataly Spa Soko Terme indoor & outoor swiming pools BAŠTA OTVORENOG SRCA Od događaja u toku zimske sezone izdvajamo „Baštu otvorenog srca“ koja se održava 01. januara. Banjske goste i meštane očekuje dobra zabava uz trubače i animatore i posluženja u vidu toplih napitaka i tradicionalnih sokobanjskih specijaliteta – pita sa krompirom, kupusnik, pogačice i proja sa sokobanjskim sirom, vanilice, medenjaci...

A SAD I KLIZANJE Nova atrakcija u zimskom periode biće i klizalište sa sankalištem u najužem centru Banje.Ovaj montažni sportski objekat sa veštačkim ledom biće pravi izazov za najmlađe goste.

PROLEĆNO SUNCE Nekadašnji ponos Sokobanje – hotel „Sunce”, otvara se ponovo u proleće 2020. godine. Hotel će imati 4 zvezdice, 3 kongresne sale i oko 150 soba i apartmana, koje će moći da prime do petsto gostiju. Hotel će imati dva zatvorena i jedan otvoren bazen, a wellness i spa sadržaji će se prostirati na hiljadu metrara kvadratnih i biće prava oaza za uživanje i opuštanje.

64 Fall/Winter 2019 /2020

BelGuest

Draw deep breaths of nature and feel the joy of living • A health and medical spa center in the heart of Sokobanja • Nature, science and contemporary medical achievements at the service of the improvement and preservation of health • A modern spa resort for the prevention, diagnostics, treatment and rehabilitation of children and adults • State-of-the-art equipment and devices • Highly professional medical staff

Wellness and spa programs for the relaxation and revitalization of your body and spirit: Salt room • fitness • Health Path peloid • massages

LET’S STEP INTO NEW MORNINGS TOGETHER! Sokobanja Special Hospital • Vojvode Mišića 48, Sokobanja • Tel:+ 381 (0)18 830 124 • e-mail: sokobolnica@mts.rs • www.sokobanja.co.rs

BelGuest

Fall/Winter 2019/2020

65

H

O

T

E

L

R

A

M

O

N

D

A

of

R

T

A

N

J

A Phenix Underneath the Pyramid Ramonda is a flower of a delicate violet color, which has a miraculous power: even when it lies on a sheet of paper in a herbarium, only one drop of water is enough for it to revive. Rtanj Mountain is one of the rare landscapes where this phenix flower grows. Recently, an elegant boutique-hotel has been opened underneath the riddling summit of Rtanja in the shape of a regular pyramid – inspired both by the name and the content by the resurrecting plant.

There are a lot of unusual phenomena connected with Rtanj, starting from its perfect, triangular pyramidal “dome”, which it is hard for one to believe that it is but a random work of the forces of nature, through the exactly measured existence of a special kind of “non-Hertzian radiation”, the electric potential that is three to four times as great as the usual one in some places… The phenomenon of “a traveler through time” has been recorded, flying saucers have been taken photos of, and it is a fact that planes do not fly over Rtanj due to the atypical gravitational field. Measurements have shown that the summit of the mountain is the point that receives energy, which is then conducted through the “chimneys” of their own kind to the places which emit such collected energy. There are also “science-fiction” theories saying that the mountain is hollow in the inside, that it is extraterrestrials’ base, the primeval homeland of God Ra… Because of all the above-mentioned things, and a lot of those unmentioned as well, Rtanj is a place whose secrets both scientists and many other visionaries and searchers for alternative

66 Fall/Winter 2019 /2020

BelGuest

interpretations of phenomena impossible to witness every day tend to fathom out.

A Reputable Mine The settlement where the Ramonda Hotel was built used to be inhabited by miners. The story begins in the 19th century, when a Jew, Samuilo Minh, moved from Moravia to Serbia. He established a textile factory in the town of Paraćin, and upon his son Julius’ persuasion, he began to invest the earned profit in mining. The Minhs were granted concessions for the exploitation of the ore fields of Rtanj, and they opened the first pit in 1902. They employed the local population and brought experts from abroad. The settlement grew to about two thousand inhabitants, but was not like any other similar places in Serbia and in Europe. For the workers and their families, the Minh family built comfortable flats, established a school, opened an outpatient unit, erected Sport Center, with a cinema in it, too. Julius’ wife Greta dedicatedly worked on the refinement of the space. Credit is due to her for the construction of a

large park, the construction of a greenhouse, the planting of a rose-garden, and so on. Greta was a favorite person of the inhabitants of the stone coal mine of Rtanj because of her support and the attention she paid to miners’ children and families.

From Coal to the Mountain Hotel The history of this mine, in which care was also being taken of the welfare of the employees and the cultivation of nature apart from the imperative that a profit should be made, seems to be remembered and followers seem to have appeared many decades after its closing. According to what we saw and experienced, the management of the Ramonda continue the business philosophy of the Minh family, which is testified to by their “statement of intentions”: “We want to make the Rtanj settlement revive again as a Ramonda; this time, however, instead of a mine, we have a mine of good atmosphere, a mine of good service, a mine of a quality hotel offer.” It is envisaged that the hotel should be the pillar of the development of this region, and this is seen in that a cooperative has been established, which produces organic food for the hotel, and in that the menu offers known gastronomic products of this region, such as the kashkaval cheese of Krivi Vir, the wines of Knjaževac, Rtanj tea.

Ramonda’s People It is a usual thing for a media presentation of a hotel to be focused on the accommodation and wellness attractions; in the case of this hotel, however, the story begins with the people. Jadranka Stepanović is the owner of the Ramonda, and differently from many investors whose manners imply their interfering in all and in everything, she dedicated her efforts to choosing the right associates who she gave freedom of action. So, she succeeded in bringing Radomir Samčević, a successful consultant for hotel management, from as far as Mexico. His motto, “The easiest thing is to be the best.” was accepted by the employees – about sixty young people from the nearby Boljevac and Sokobanja. The curiosity of it rests in the fact that Samčević started the training by, first, bringing the candidates to a hotel in Vrnjačka Banja Spa to be guests there, since almost none of them had ever stayed in a hotel, and they did not have any approximately appropriate education, either. If we had not heard this testimony, we would have thought that the crème of the hotelier profession work at the Ramonda. Experienced Nikova Jakovljević has been appointed as the director of the hotel; Miloš Ristić, who has an envious international career, is the chef; we also met young bartender Filip, who climbed one step of the career ladder only three months after he had started working there.

The Echo of the Surroundings in the Architecture Ljiljana Rebronja, the director of the “Tourism World” magazine, who organized this promotional journey for the representatives of numerous media houses, had prepared the basic information for us in advance. In the announcement, it is also said, among other things, that it is a 4-star hotel with a Spa Center, which immediately creates an image in one’s mind of some kind of unhidden luxury, although everything is exactly the other way round. The external façade of stone and the wooden panels is more like a mountain home. The interiority of the hotel is yet a greater surprise: the reception desk, the bar and the restaurant, together with the terrace, are so designed to be one unique space, whose “dimensions” and straight lines “are cut” by refined details. The effect of this combination of “the straight-line and the curved” is amazing – one simultaneously feels the whole of the big “hotel stage”, as well as the intimate atmosphere of its every individual “box”. The most beautiful of all is the abundance of light and the view of the Ramonda’s surrounding area.

Vlada and Valerija Milić, the husband and wife who had designed the hotel, made us familiar with the fact that no author’s idea had been important to them, but rather the context. “And the context of this settlement and the nature that ‘flowed’

Rtanj Mountain, photo: Dragan Bosnić

into this location of ours couldn’t have been better and more encouraging. With a selection of natural materials, the Ramonda blended in one with the surrounding nature and its large-size glass areas create a connection with that nature, which will contribute to the achievement of a perfect harmony between the hotel itself and its guests. If the results you see are echoing with an atmosphere of the powerful surroundings, then it means we were honest in our intentions,” Vlada Milić said to us.

A Panoply of Ambiences The Ramonda belongs in a group of boutique hotels and can accommodate up to 90 guests. The rooms and suites are equipped with taste and characterized by a tranquil design. Particular attention is dedicated to the lighting. Apart from the pendant and table lamps, the duplex suite which I stayed in also has a “star sky” on the ceiling – a plethora of small bulbs, whose dimmed light makes the night beautiful. Although bearing the stamp of the same designers, not one room is the same. The Spa Center offers its ordinary attractions: an indoor and a jacuzzi swimming-pool, a Finnish and a Turkish sauna, the massage rooms.

What is exceptional is the daylight coming into this relaxation zone through the external windows and from the glass roof in the shape of a pyramid – which is an “architectural homage” to the famous summit of Rtanj. The lake in the yard looks like a typical outdoor swimming-pool at first sight, which is but an illusion.

It is a unique example in our country of the place where water is purified with the help of algae and water plants. The lake and the water garden with lotos flowers in full bloom are a real pearl among the Ramonda’s ambiences.

Where the Camera Shakes In the immediate vicinity, there is a place officially called Vrelo (Spring), and the people coming to visit it often call it the Sanctuary as well. It is such a manifestation of the mentioned phenomenon in which the energy collected by the summit of the pyramid is “conducted” towards certain points emitting that energy. Vrelo was discovered and signposted by academic Jovan Davidović, and radiations were measured and examined by an international expert team. A fact has been established that this “radiation” invisible to the human eye has a stimulating action on human physical and psychic health, so Vrelo has become a pilgrimage place of its own kind. We had an opportunity to see with our own eyes on the spot that the “energy circle” does have a force. A colleague from our team put his camera down onto a wooden table next to Vrelo. At that very same moment, it began to vibrate and shake, which we were watching at a loss of words. I stood barefoot in this remarkable place, making an effort to feel myself the vibration that was making the camera shake. I was not shaking, but, on my way back to the Ramonda, I felt light-footed and relieved.

The impressions of the journey are nice, suprising and promising. The Ramonda Hotel is masterly devised and represents the necessary condition for the further development of Rtanj, which was declared a special nature reserve last year.

There is a plan to build a gondola to the summit of the mountain, reconstruct the Greta Minh park, as well as a plan for programs of visits to numerous cultural sights and sights of nature in the surroundings: the ancient imperial palace of Felix Romuliana, inscribed on the UNESCO list, Sokobanja Spa, the spectacular Bogovinska and Lazareva caves, the ethno-village of Ilino, the winery of Knjaževac, and so forth.

Milena Mihaljčić Photo: "Turistički svet”

68 Fall/Winter 2019 /2020

A miraculous ray of light above Rtanj Spring, photo: Olgica Miljković

BelGuest

H O T E L

R A M O N D A

R T A N J

FENIKS POD PIRAMIDOM Ramonda je cvet nežnoljubičaste boje koji poseduje čudesnu moć: čak i kada počiva na listu herbarijuma samo je kap vode dovoljna da ponovo oživi. Jedan od retkih predela gde ovaj cvet feniks raste je planina Rtanj. Nedavo je, podno zagonetnog rtanjskog vrha oblika pravilne piramide, otvoren elegantan butik hotel – i imenom i sadržajem inspirisan biljkom koja vaskrsava.

Mnogo je neobičnih pojava vezano za Rtanj: počevši od njegove savršene, trostrane piramidalne “kupole” za koju je teško poverovati da je tek nasumično delo sila prirode, preko egzaktno izmerenog postojanja posebne vrste „nehercijalnog zračenja“, električnog potencijala koje je na pojedinim mestima tri do četiri puta veći od uobičajenog... Zabeležena je pojava „putnika kroz vreme“, fotografisani leteći tanjiri, a činjenica je da zbog atipičnog gravitacionog polja avioni ne nadleću Rtanj. Merenja su pokazala da je vrh planine tačka koja prima energiju koja se potom, kroz svojevrsne „dimnjake“, sprovodi do mesta koja prikupljenu energiju emituju. Postoje i „naučnofantastične“ teorije da je planina iznutra šuplja, da je baza vanzemaljcima, prapostojbina boga Ra... Zbog svega pobrojanog i još mnogo toga izostavljenog, Rtanj je mesto u čije tajne nastoje da proniknu, kako naučnici, tako i mnogi drugi zanesenjaci i tragači za alternativnim tumačenjima nesvakidašnjih fenomena.

RUDNIK ZA UGLED U naselju gde je izgrađen hotel Ramonda nekada su živeli rudari. Priča započinje u 19. veku kada se iz Moravske u Srbiju doselio Jevrejin Samuilo Minh. Osnovao je fabriku tekstila u Paraćinu, a na nagovor sina Juliusa, ostvareni profit je počeo je da ulaže u rudarstvo. Minhovi su dobili koncesije za eksploataciju rtanjskih rudnih polja, a prvo okno su otvorili 1902. godine.

Zapošljavali su domaće stanovništvo, a stručnjake su dovodili iz inostranstva.

Naselje je naraslo na oko dvehiljade stanovnika, ali nije bilo ni nalik na slična mesta u Srbiji i Evropi. Za radnike i njihove porodice, Minhovi su izgradila udobne stanove, osnovali školu, otvorili ambulantu, podigli Sokolski dom koji je imao i bioskop... Julijusova supruga Greta, predano je radila na oplemenjivanju prostora. Njenom zaslugom nikao je veliki park, podignuta staklena bašta, zasađeni ružičanjaci... Greta je bila omiljena ličnost stanovnika rtanjskog rudnika kamenog uglja zbog podrške i pažnje koju je poklanjala deci i porodicama rudara.

OD UGLJA DO PLANINSKOG HOTELA Čini se da je povest ovog rudnika u kojem se, osim imperativa da se dođe do profita, vodilo računa i o dobrobiti zaposlenih i kultivisala priroda, upamćena i da su se mnogo decenija nakon njegovog gašenja pojavili sledbenici. Po onome što smo videli i doživeli, uprava Ramonde je nastavljač poslovne filozofije porodice Minh. O tome svedoči i njihova „izjava o namerama“: „Želimo da naselje Rtanj ponovo oživi kao ramonda, ali ovog puta, umesto rudnika da imamo rudnik dobre atmosfere, rudnik dobre usluge, rudnik kvalitetne hotelske ponude.“ Zamisao je da hotel bude stožer razvoja ovog kraja, a to se vidi i po tome što je osnovana zadruga koja za hotel proizvodi organsku hranu i što se na meniju nalaze poznati gastronomski proizvodi ovog kraja poput krivovirskog kačkavalja, knjaževačkih vina, rtanjskog čaja.

RAMONDINI LJUDI Uobičajeno je da medijsko predstavljanje hotela u fokusu ima smeštaj i wellness sadržaje, ali u slučaju ovog hotela, priča započinje s ljudima.

Jadranka Stepanović je vlasnica Ramonde i za razliku od mnogih investitora koji imaju manir da se mešaju u sve i svašta, ona se posvetila odabiru pravih saradnika kojima je dala odrešene ruke. Tako je čak iz Meksika uspela da dovede Radomira Samčevića, uspešnog konsultantna za hotelski menadžment. Njegova deviza: „Najlakše je biti najbolji“ prihvaćena je od zaposlenih - šezdesetak mladih ljudi iz okolnog Boljevca i Sokobanje. Kuriozitet je što je obuku Samčević započeo tako što je kandidate najpre odveo u jedan hotel u Vrnjačkoj Banji da tamo budu gosti, jer gotovo niko od njih nikada nije boravio u hotelu, niti imao približno odgovarajuće obazovanje. Da nismo čuli ovo svedočenje, pomislili bismo da u Ramondi radi krem hotelijerske profesije.

Za direktora hotela izabran je iskusni Nikola Jakovljević, šef kuhinje je Miloš Ristić koji ima zavidnu internacionalnu karijeru, a upoznali smo i mladog bartendera Filipa, koji se nakon samo tri meseca rada popeo za stepenik više.

EHO OKOLINE U ARHITEKTURI Ljiljana Rebronja, direktorka časopisa „Turistički svet“ koja je za predstavnike brojnih medijskih kuća organizovala ovo promotivno putovanje, unapred nam je pripremila osnovne informacije. U najavi je, između ostalog, navedeno da hotel ima četiri zvezdice i Spa centar što odmah u svesti stvara predstavu o nekoj vrsti neskrivene raskoši, ali sve je upravo suprotno. Spoljna fasada od kamena i drvenih oplata više nalikuje na planinarski dom. Još veće iznenađenje je unutrašnost hotela: recepcija, bar i restoran, zajedno sa terasom projektovani su kao jedinstven prostor čiji „gabarit“ i prave linije „presecaju“ rafinirani detalji. Efekat ove kombinacije „pravolinijskog i zakrivljenog“ je zadivljujući: istovremeno osećate celinu velike „hotelske pozornice“, ali i intimu svake njegove pojedinačne „lože“. Najlepše od svega je obilje svetlosti i pogled na Ramondino okuženje. Od Vlade i Valerija Milić, bračnog para koji je projektovao hotel, saznajemo da im nije bila bitna autorska ideja već sam kontekst. „A kontekst ovog naselja i prirode koja se „slila“ na našu lokaciju nije mogao biti bolji i podsticajniji. Izborom prirodnih materijala, Ramonda se stopila i velikim staklenim površinama povezala s prirodom, što će doprineti i da njeni gosti budu u savršenom skladu sa njom. Ako rezultat koji je pred vama odzvanja atmosferom moćne okoline, onda znači da smo bili iskreni u našim namerama,“ rekao nam je Vlada Milić.

LEPEZA AMBIJENATA Ramonda spada u butik hotele i može da primi do devedest gostiju.

Sobe i apartmani su ukusno opremljeni i smirenog su dizajna. Naročita pažnja posvećena je osvetljenju. Dupleks apartman u kojem sam boravila, osim visećih i stonih lampi, ima na stropu „zvezdano nebo“ – pregršt malih sijalica koje vam prigušenom svetlošću ulepšavaju noć. Iako istovetnog dizajnerskog rukopisa nijedna soba nije ista. Spa centar ima sve uobičajene sadržaje: zatvoreni i đakuzi bazen, finsku i tursku saunu, sobe za masaže. Ono što je izuzetno jeste dnevna svetlost koja u ovu zonu opuštanja dolazi kroz spoljne prozora i sa staklenog krova u obliku piramide - što je „arhitektonski omaž“ znamenitom rtanjskom vrhu.

Jezero u dvorištu na prvi pogled nalikuje na tipičan spoljni bazen, ali to

70 Fall/Winter 2019 /2020

BelGuest

je varka. Reč je o jedinstvenom primeru u našoj zemlji gde se voda prečišćava uz pomoć algi i vodenog bilja. Jezero i vodeni vrt sa racvetalim lokvanjima su pravi biser među ambijentima Ramonde.

TAMO GDE KAMERA PODRHTAVA U neposrednoj blizini nalazi se mesto koje se zvanično zove Vrelo, a ljudi koji ga pohode često ga nazivaju i Svetilištem. Reč je o manifestaciji već pomenute pojave da se energija koju prikupi vrh piramide „sprovodi“ do određenih tačaka koje tu energiju emituju. Vrelo je pronašao i obeležio akademik Jovan Davidović, a zračenja je merio i ispitivao međunarodni stručni tim. Uvrđeno je da ovo, oku nevidljivo „isijavanje“, podsticajno deluje na fizičko i psihičko zdravlje, pa je Vrelo postalo svojevrsno mesto hodočašća. Imali smo priliku da se na licu mesta uverimo da „energetski krug“ poseduje silu. Kolega iz naše ekipe odložio je svoju kameru na drveni sto postavljen tik uz Vrelo. Istog trena počela je sama od sebe da vibrira i podrhtva, a mi smo je u čudu posmatrali. Stajala sam bosa na ovom nesvakidašnjem mestu i nastojala da i sama osetim vibraciju koja pokreće kameru. Nisam podrhtavala ali sam se, vraćajući se ka Ramondi, osetila neobično lakonogo i rasterećeno.

Utisci sa ovog putovanja su i lepi i nesvakidašnji i obećavajući. Hotel Ramonda je mestralno osmišljen i predstavlja onaj neophodan uslov za dalji razvoj Rtnja, koji je prošle godine proglašen specijalnim rezervatom prirode. Planira se izgradnja gondole do vrha planine, obnova parka Grete Minh, programi obilaska brojnih kulturnih i prirodnih znamenitosti u okruženju: antičke carske palate Feliks Romulijana koja je na listi Uneska, Sokobanje, spektakularne Bogovinske i Lazareve pećine, etnosela Ilino, knjaževačkih vinarija...

Milena Mihaljčić Foto: „Turistički svet”

T h e B l u e T rain – A N ew S tar of S erbian T o u rism

This Is How Marshal Tito Travelled

This is for the first time in the history of the Blue Train that even ordinary passengers may also step into its compartments. The luxury interior of the train has remained unchanged even more than half a century later. The glorious history of Tito’s Socialist Yugoslavia is written in it. President Tito travelled to all the cities and towns of his big country by this train and hosted his innumerable statesmen and diplomats in it.

Other attractive programs have also been thought out together with the stories about interesting historical facts and anecdotes from Tito’s journeys.

Užice Republic Today The passengers were also able to visit the city of Užice, the museum setting dedicated to Užice Republic, the underground ammunition factory and other amenities of the city, whereas those showing a special interest, an excursion was organized, which included a visit to the memorial complex of Kadinjača, Mokra Gora (Wet Mount), Drvengrad (Timber Town) and the monastery of Rujno. The details of this program are displayed on the platform for the excursion online reservation, Serbianadventures.com, via which this tour can be booked. Within the two-day program, apart from the vivacious stories, the passengers also had a chance to taste Tito’s favorite meals and enjoy the great music evening in which the numbers from the time when brotherhood and unity were celebrated came one after another, like in a time machine.

An Extra Ticket for the Blue Train This interesting program, which,(although organized for the first time, was booked to the last seat, is organized by the tourism agencies Magelan (Novi Sad) and Republic Tours (Užice), which plan regular departures at least once a month. When the December schedule is concerned, apart from individual visitors, they expect to welcome the first groups of Slovenian tourists, whereas tourists from China are expected to come in January and February, according to the respective schedules. The train can capacitate 110 passengers, for which reason the organizers also expect that firms will show an interest in extraordinary departures for the purpose of team-building and other journey intended to their employees. During the summer season, this tour will be enriched with a greater offer of facultative excursions. Judging by the first reactions, the regular departures of the Blue Train may become a magnet attracting tourists from throughout the world, who might also want to visit Serbia even because of the exclusive history of the train itself.

BelGuest/ Foto: Serbian Adventures

72 Fall/Winter 2019 /2020

BelGuest

The memorial complex of Kadinjača

P lavi voz

–

nova

zvezda

srpskog t u rizma

TAKO JE PUTOVAО MARŠAL TITO

Dan republike, 29. novembar, važio je za najveći praznik u bivšoj, socijalističkoj Jugoslaviji. Ove godine, upravo tog datuma, krenula je prva turistička grupa koja je Titovim „Plavim vozom" putovala od Beograda do „Užičke republike“ – tokom Drugog svetskog rata jedine slobode teritorije u čitavoj okupiranoj Evropi.

Ovo je prvi put u istoriji Plavog voza da i obični putnici mogu da kroče u njegove odaje. Raskošna unutrašnjost ostala je nepromenjena i posle više od pola veka. U njemu je ispisana slavna istorija Titove socijalističke Jugoslavije. Predsednik Tito je njime obišao sve gradove svoje velike zemlje i ugostio nebrojene državnike i diplomate. U „paketu" s pričama o zanimljivim istorijskim činjenicama i anegdotama s Titovih putovanja, osmišljeni su i drugi privlačni programi.

UŽIČKA REPUBLIKA DANAS Putnici su mogli da obiđu grad Užice, muzejsku postavku na temu Užičke republike, podzemne fabrike municije i druge znamenitosti grada, a za zaintresovane organizovan je izlet koji je obuhvatio obilazak spomen-kompleksa Kadinjača, Mokre Gore, Drvengrada i manastira Rujno. Detalji ovog programa mogu se videti na platformi za online rezervisanje izleta Serbianadventures.com preko kojeg se ova tura može rezervisati. U okviru dvodnevnog programa, putnici su, uz žive priče, mogli da probaju Titova omiljena jela i uživaju u sjajnoj muzičkoj

večeri u kojoj su se, kao u vremeplovu, nizale numere iz doba kada se slavilo bratstvo-jedinstvo.

KARTA VIŠE ZA PLAVI VOZ Organizatori ovog zanimljivog programa koji je, iako po prvi put organizovan, bio popunjen do posledjeg mesta su turističke agencije Magelan iz Novog Sada i Republic tours iz Užica, koje planiraju redovne polaske najmanje jednom mesečno. Za decembarski termin, pored individualnih posetilaca, očekuju se prve grupe iz Slovenije, dok se za januarski i februarski očekuju kineski turisie. Kapacitet voza je 110 putnika, te zato organizatori očekuju i interesovanje firmi za vanredne polaske za timbilding i druga putovanja namenjena zaposlenima. Tokom letnjeg perioda, ova tura će biti obogaćena većom ponudom fakultativnih izleta.

Redovni polasci Plavog voza, sudeći po prvim reakcijama, mogu postati magnet za turiste iz celog sveta koji bi i zbog njegove ekskluzivne istorije poželeli da posete Srbiju.

BelGuest/ Foto: Serbian Adventures

BelGuest

Fall/Winter 2019/2020

73

I n t e r v i e w – A n d r e w D e r r y , n e w d i r e c t o r o f IS B s c h o o l

GOOD IS THE ENEMY OF GREAT

Andrew Derry is decisive to cope with numerous challenges of the modern education system. He believes that schools cannot live in isolation, but should rather reach out to the entrepreneur community in order to connect students with the real world.

Celebrating Gandhi event At the beginning of the eighth decade of the ISB School, you are determined to make the it even more outstanding The Board and I, think we have a very good school, but we have an ambition to be the leading international school in the entire region of Central and Eastern Europe. We already have a strategic plan. Once you are good, you tend to think that you are good, and that’s the end of it – whereas to be great requires persistent dissatisfaction, you constantly work on your goals. Our teachers are our most important asset; actually, they are brilliant and seventy percent of them have an international experience. The second point is being very clear in the vision of what learning is all about.

You have mentioned that the so-called VUCA world has a high impact upon education The world itself is volatile, uncertain, complex and ambiguous. The question is how do you educate children for that. The global survey of the World Economic Forum states that 65% of children currently in Primary School will enter a job that does not yet exist. We are now using a lot of data, to monitor progress; we are turning to the development of a greater number of world language programs, creative arts, computer science, as well as entrepreneurial programs as one of the big elements. Schools cannot live in isolation.

We’ve already been looking for partners in Belgrade, because we want to connect our children with realworld problems.

You believe that the most important learning element is how to overcome failure School has been considered as either right or wrong for many years, but it isn't so in the real world. The real world is – when you fall, you get back up and try again. Real entrepreneurs keep trying, they get back up one more time than they fail. There are so many examples in history to support this statement. You fail and you learn, you fail and you learn… We have to teach our students how to be resilient, how to learn from failure, not to just get a job, but rather create it. Another important element is coaching students to think in terms of big concepts, which helps them understand how to apply their learning in the future.

Students’ inborn ability isn’t something you take into consideration I don't believe in that. There are too many highly successful adults who were no good at ‘schooling’. We can only act upon creating a stimulating learning environment. Our job as educators is to focus on challenging our children and supporting them. You only fail when you stop trying. The outcome should be the establishment of a mindset that plays the most significant role in determining achievement and success. Apart from challenge and support, choice, autonomy and collaboration, help your students develop an intrinsic motivation for learning!

BelGuest Photo: ISB

74 Fall/Winter 2019 /2020

BelGuest

Crazy hat day, Andrew and the dragons Andrew Derry and his “third culture” kids Andrew Derry has recently joined The ISB School as its new director. He has worked in international education for almost three decades and in school leadership for exactly 22 years. Previously, Andrew has led schools in the USA, Zimbabwe, Hungary, France and Switzerland. He and his wife, AnneMarie, are proud parents of four children, who all see themselves as “third culture” kids and global citizens. For the whole family, the notion of home is the world.

I n t e r jv u – E n d r u D e r i , n o v i d i r e kt o r IS B š k o l e

DOBRO JE NEPRIJATELJ SJAJNOM Endru Deri je odlučan da se izbori s brojnim izazovima sistema modernog obrazovanja. Veruje da škole ne mogu da žive u izolaciji, već da treba da se povezuju s preduzetničkim zajednicama kako bi učeninici imali kontakt sa stvarnim svetom.

Professional learning Na početku osme decenije postojanja ISB škole, odlučni ste u nameri da je učinite još istaknutijom...

Odbor i ja mislimo da je naša škola veoma dobra, ali imamo ambicije da postanemo vodeća međunarodna škola u čitavoj oblasti centralne i zapadne Evrope. Već imamo osmišljen strateški plan. Kad jednom postanete dobri, obično mislite da ste dobri, i tu se priča završava – dok biti sjajan zahteva neprestano nezadovoljstvo postignutim, stalnu posvećenost ciljevima.

Naši nastavnici su naše najvrednije blago; zapravo, oni su sjajni, i više od sedamdeset posto njih ima međunarodno iskustvo. Druga bitna stvar jeste to što imamo vrlo jasnu viziju šta je suština obrazovanja.

Spomenuli ste da tzv. VUCA svet ima veliki uticaj na obrazovanje…

Sâm svet je promenljiv, prepun neizvesnosti, složen i dvosmislen. Pitanje je kako obrazujete decu za život u takvom svetu. Prema rezultatima globalne

ankete Svetskog ekonomskog foruma, 65% dece koja trenutno pohađaju osnovnu školu zaposliće se na radnom mestu koje još uvek ne postoji.

Sada pratimo brojne podatke kako bismo pratili napredak; okrećemo se ka razvoju većeg broja programa na svetskim jezicima, stvaralačkim umetnostima, računarskoj nauci, kao i preduzetničkim programima kao jednom od veoma značajnih elemenata. Škole ne mogu da žive u izolaciji. Već neko vreme tražimo partnere u Beogradu jer želimo da povežemo našu decu s problemima realnog sveta.

Verujete da način na koji učimo decu da prebrode neuspeh predstavlja najbitniji element učenja…

Godinama se u školi smatralo da je nešto ili tačno ili netačno, ali to nije tako u stvarnom svetu. On podrazumeva da kada padnete, odmah skočite na noge i krenete iznova. Pravi preduzetnici nikad ne odustaju, ustaju kada padnu, uvek iznova. Istorija je prepuna primera koji potkrepljuju ovu izjavu.

Doživite neuspeh – i nešto naučite iz toga; ponovo doživite neuspeh, i ponovo nešto iz toga naučite. Moramo da učimo našu učenike kako da budu žilavi i otporni, kako da uče lekcije iz doživljenog neuspeha, ne samo da dobiju posao, već pre da ga stvore. Drugi bitan element je upućivanje učenika da nauče da misle u velikim konceptima, što im pomaže da razumeju kako će u budućnosti primenjivati svoja znanja.

Urođena sposobnost učenika nije nešto što Vi lično uzimate u obzir…

Ne verujem u to. Ima i previše izuzetno uspešnih odraslih ljudi koji se nisu proslavili tokom svog „školovanja“. Možemo samo da se trudimo da stvorimo stimulativno okruženje za učenje. Mi kao pedagozi moramo da se usmerimo svu našu pažnju na to da našu decu suočavamo s izazovima i da im pružamo podršku u njihovom savladavanju. Neuspeh je neizbežan čim prestanete da se trudite. Ishod bi trebalo da bude uspostavljanje takvog mentalnog sklopa koji ima najznačajniju ulogu u određivanju postignuća i uspeha. Osim izazova i podrške, mogućnost izbora, samostalnost i saradnja pomažu učenicima da razviju unutrašnju motivaciju za učenje!

BelGuest Photo: ISB

Endru Deri i njegova deca „treće kulture“ Endru Deri se nedavno pridružio ISB školi kao njen novi direktor. U oblasti međunarodnog obrazovanja radi već skoro tri decenije, a tačno 22 godine rukovodi školama. Prethodno je bio na čelu škola u SAD, Zimbabveu, Mađarskoj, Francuskoj i Švajcarskoj. On i njegova supruga, En-Mari, su ponosni roditelji četvoro dece, koji sebe vide kao decu „treće kulture“ i globalne građane. Svi članovi porodice ideju doma poistovećuju sa svetom.

Andrew and student Liah

BelGuest

Fall/Winter 2019/2020

75

76 Fall/Winter 2019 /2020

BelGuest

R ecommendation / P repor u ka

It i n e r ar y f or 2020

At the International Tourism Fair in Kragujevac 2019, the stand of Novi Bečej was the most outstanding. Visitors and the media had an opportunity to convince themselves of the hospitality of the people of Novi Bečej, the quality of their wines and food, as well as the numerous possibilities for one to rest and entertain oneself in this part of Banat.

“Novi Bečej can be interesting to tourists throughout the year,” points out Saša Dujin, director of the Tourism Organization.

Winter During cold days, we recommend visiting our museums – Žeravica (The Ember), one of the largest industrial-technical museums in Europe, whereas the Kotarka museum has a significant collection of agricultural objects. There are also other attractions, such as enjoying hunting and fishing, and, of course, tasting local specialties.

Spring In spring, the whole of Serbia starts blooming; only here, there is a blooming river. The Flower of Tisa blooms on our Tisa River, and visitors can enjoy the time at the beautiful Tisa Quay in the company of tamboura players, and drinking wine.

Summer During the summer, the Tisa River beach “is brought to life” – you can rent a boat, a scooter, an excursion ship… During the days of the Feast of the Assumption at the end of August, we also organize cooking competitions, numerous programs for children, the horse-drawn carts parade, the Ethno-Bazaar, concerts…

Autumn The Slano Kopovo Special Nature Reserve is one of the most characteristic European bird habitats and a migratory station for several hundreds of thousands of “world passengers”. Spend at least one weekend watching birds!

ITINERER ZA 2020

Na Međunarodnom sajmu turizma u Kragujevcu 2019 štand Novog Bečeja bio je najzapaženiji.

Posetioci i mediji imali su priliku da se uvere u gostoprimstvo Novobečejaca, u kvalitet njihovih vina i hrane, kao i u brojne mogućnosti za odmor i zabavu u ovom delu Banata. „Novi Bečej može biti interesantan turistima tokom cele godine, ističe Saša Dujin, direktor Turističke organizacije.

ZIMA „Tokom hladnih dana preporučujemo posetu našim muzejima – Žeravica je jedan od najvećih industrijsko-tehničkih muzeja u Evropi, a muzej Kotarka ima značajnu zbirku poljoprivrednih predmeta. Tu su i drugi sadržaji, uživanje u lovu i ribolovu i, naravno, degustaciji lokalnih specijaliteta”.

PROLEĆE U proleće se rascveta cela Srbija, ali samo ovde cveta reka. Na našoj Tisi rađa se Tiski cvet, a posetioci mogu uživati i na prelepom Tiskom keju, uz tamburaše i vino.

LETO Za vreme leta „oživi“ plaža na Tisi, može se iznajmi čamac, skuter, izletnički brod… A kada se krajem avgusta održava Gospojina, organizujemo takmičenja u kuvanju, brojne programe za decu, paradu konjskih zaprega, Etno bazar, koncerte…

JESEN Specijalni rezervat prirode Slano Kopovo jedno je od najosobenijih staništa ptica u Evropi i migratorna stanica za više stotina hiljada „svetskih putnika“. Provedite bar jedan vikend u posmatranju ptica!

Rozana Sazdić

Info-Tourism Organization of Novi Bečej/Turistička organizacija Novi Bečej •T: +381 23 773 522 • E-mail: turistickaorganizacijanb@gmail.com • www.novibecej.rs

BelGuest

Fall/Winter 2019/2020

77

I N T E R V I E W

–

P A U L

W A D E

CAREFULLY THOUGHT-OUT CHANGES Paul Wade, Deputy Principal of the British International School in Belgrade, joined this institution in September 2019. In a short period of time, he has managed to lay the foundation for some innovative models of teaching and learning including a reform of the grading system.

We met Paul Wade on a very exciting school day: BIS hosted the inaugural Model United Nations Conference, which brought together students from more than twenty countries who spoke on behalf of all the United Nations. In his introductory speech, in which he praised the efforts made by Cameron and Nyal and all the members of the Organizational Board, each one of whom are the students at BIS, Paul Wade highlighted the fact that it is not only theknowledge that matters, but also one’s ability to speak a language and exchange ideas in it. During the interview, we came to know that learning the spoken English language and practicing it are considered to be the foundational principles of quality education.

You have already started making some key changes We have been using a traditional grading system, and it is the right time for us to turn to contemporary models. Most schools in the UK have moved away from the traditional sort of grading and are now looking at students’ attainment over time. Behind the scenes, we are trying to use technology a bit more in the administrative sharing of information, but the most important rule for a change manager to adhere to is – not all can be done at once. If all the rules are set by me, they will not stick. What I prefer to do is find out what people want, and then create changes that are desired.

Cooperation with the parents is something you want to enhance I really want to engage with our parents, both in terms of getting them into school for panel workshops on how to raise and support a child and in terms of helping them form a community within themselves. More than a half of our students and their parents are not in their home country. They do not always have a network or a family to go to, so we intend to organise different social events to help them feel more settled. Having lived as an international citizen, I know the significance of having someone to rely on.

You are in touch with other International schools…

I am open to working with other educational organizations to help improve the chances of children. I recognize that educational systems from around the world have a lot to offer to each other and would be keen to embark on professional exchange and shared research programmes with colleagues from Belgrade and other countries.

What is your pedagogical credo?

I constantly strive to ensure the best possible outcomes for all of the children at my school by placing inclusive practice, assessment for learning and high expectations at the core of my educational philosophy. I basically want all the teachers, children and parents to believe in the potential of every student as much as I do.

BELGUEST/Photo: Dragana Barjaktarević & BIS school

78 Fall/Winter 2019 /2020

BelGuest

Paul Wade qualified as a teacher at Bradford University, Yorkshire.

He holds a BA in Psychology from the University of Wales, Bangor and an MA in Special and Inclusive Education from the Institute of Education, London. He taught in and led schools in the UK, the Czech Republic, Poland and Russia before coming to Belgrade.

I N T E R V J U

–

P O L

V E J D

PAŽLJIVO PROMIŠLJENE PROMENE Pol Vejd, pomoćnik direktora Britanske internacionalne škole u Beogradu, se pridružio ovoj ustanovi u septembru 2019. Za kratko vreme uspeo je da postavi temelje za neke inovativne modele u nastavi uključujući i reformu sistema ocenjivanja.

Pola Vejda smo upoznali jednog veoma uzbudljivog dana. Naime, BIS je tog dana bila domaćin inauguralne Konferencije Modela Ujedinjenih nacija, koja je okupila učenike iz više od 20 zemalja, koji su se obraćali u ime svih naroda Ujedinjenih Nacija. U svom uvodnom govoru, u kojem je pohvalio napore Kamerona i Najala kao članova Organizacionog odbora koji su svi do jednog činili učenici BIS-a, Pol je naglasio da je bitno ne samo znanje, već i sposobnost da se usmeno komunicira i razmenjuju ideje. Tokom intervjua smo saznali da se učenje kao i primena govornog engleskog jezika smatraju temeljnim principima kvalitetnog obrazovanja.

Već ste počeli da sprovodite neke značajne promene Naš sistem ocenjivanja je prilično tradicionalan, i pravo je vreme da se okrenemo savremenim modelima. Najveći broj škola u Velikoj Britaniji ne primenjuje tradicionalan način ocenjivanja, već se okrenuo ishodima učenja i postignućima učenika koji se prate u odgovarajućem vremenskom rasponu.

Takođe, nastojimo da više koristimo tehnologiju u svrhu administrativnog deljenja informacija, ali najvažnije pravilo kojeg svako ko upravlja promenama treba da se pridržava jeste ono koje kaže da ne može sve da se uradi odmah i sada. Ako sam ja taj koji postavlja sva pravila, onda to ne valja. Ono što bih pre želeo da uradim jeste da otkrijem šta je to što ljudi žele, a tek potom da kreiram željene promene.

Saradnja sa roditeljima učenika je nešto što želite da poboljšate Zaista želim da se posvetim roditeljima naših učenika, ne samo tako što ćemo ih zvati da prisustvuju različitim panel radionicama na temu kako bi trebalo podizati dete i pružati mu podršku, nego i tako što ćemo im pomagati da formiraju zajednicu unutar njih samih. Više od polovine naših učenika i njihovih roditelja ne živi u svojoj zemlji. Nemaju uvek mrežu prijatelja niti porodicu na koju mogu da se oslone, tako da nameravamo da organizujemo različite društvene događaje kako bismo im pomogli da se osećaju prihvaćenim i ukorenjenim. Pošto sam živeo na različitim mestima u svetu, znam koliko svakome znači da ima nekoga na koga može da se osloni.

U kontaktu ste sa drugim međunarodnim školama Otvoren sam za saradnju sa drugim obrazovnim organizacijama kako bih pomogao deci da dobiju što veće šanse u životu. Svestan sam toga da obrazovni sistemi iz svih delova sveta imaju mnogo toga da ponude jedni drugima i žarko bih želeo da postanem deo stručne razmene i zajedničkih istraživačkih programa sa kolegama iz Beograda i iz drugih zemalja.

Kako glasi Vaš pedagoški kredo?

Neprekidno težim tome da obezbedim najbolje moguće uslove za sve moje učenike, stavljajući u središte svoje obrazovne filozofije inkluziju, procenu učenja i visoka očekivanja. U osnovi, želim da svi naši nastavnici, svi naši učenici i njihovi roditelji veruju u potencijal svakog učenika, isto onoliko koliko i ja lično u njega verujem.

BELGUEST/Foto: Dragana Barjaktarević i BIS škola

Pol Vejd je stekao diplomu pedagoga i nastavnika na Bredfordskom Univerzitetu u Jorkširu. Osnovna diploma mu je iz oblasti psihologije, koju je stekao na Velškom Univerzitetu u Bangoru; magistarske studije je završio na Institutu za obrazovanje u Londonu, na odseku specijalnog i inkluzivnog obrazovanja. Pre dolaska u Beograd, predavao je ili vodio škole u Velikoj Britaniji, Češkoj, Poljskoj i Rusiji.

BelGuest

Fall/Winter 2019/2020

79

M A E S T R O

J E W E L E R S

P R E S E N T S

JEWELRY FOR ETERNITY

The motifs of the Moriah collection design are created from different combinations of diamonds, gold, and the stone of Temple Mount in Jerusalem. Diamonds are the most precious stone in the world; gold is a personification of nobleness, and the Jerusalem stone originates from the most holy of grounds on the planet Earth. Together with every piece of jewelry, you take a small part of Jerusalem with you as well, near your heart, “touching” a three millennia long history.

Moriah, or Temple Mount, is the place where God formed Adam from the dust of the ground, where Kain and Abel offered sacrifices, where Abraham offered Isaac as a sacrifice and where he sowed the seed of the three big religions – Judaism, Christianity and Islam. Temple Mount is situated in the center, lying between the mountain of Zion with its Wailing Wall, the remains of the temple built by King Solomon, and the Mount of Olives and Golgotha, the holy places of Christians, whose summit itself is in the central part of the Al-Aqsa Mosque today, in which (according to a tradition) Prophet Mohammad ascended to heaven.

No matter what it may be – pendants or rings – every individual piece of jewelry is handmade. The idea about gold and diamond pieces whose core consists of the stone of Jerusalem, which is the supporting inspiration of the design, is enwoven into the jewelry. The collection consists of the pieces of a limited series, which are accompanied by an authenticity certificate, as well as the stories about the symbols essential to the Holy City. Every piece of the Moriah jewelry aims to establish a connection between every individual person in the world, irrespective of the place where they might be, and the inner beauty, tranquility and moral values that are the characteristics of the “spirit of Jerusalem”; the precious stones and noble metals used in its making demonstrate the strength of this miraculous city and its value: • the stone of Jerusalem originates from the most holy of grounds in the world; • a diamond is the most precious stone symbolizing invincibility and eternity; • gold is the most noble metal symbolizing the warmth of the Sun and permanence.

80 Fall/Winter 2019 /2020

BelGuest

IDC Moriah Cross – A Pendant Given as a Gift Maestro Jewelers, a renowned brand manufacturing quality jewelry and watches, located in Belgrade, offers a broad assortment of diamond engagement rings of a unique design. With the bought engagement ring, Maestro Jewelers give as a gift a handmade cross from its limited IDC (Israel Diamond Center) exclusive Moriah jewelry collection. The cross is made of the stone from Temple Mount, gold and diamonds.

M A E S T r O jewelers P R E D S T A V L J A

NAKIT ZA VEČNOST Teme dizajna kolekcije Moriah sačinjene su od različitih kombinacija dijamanata, zlata i kamena sa Hramovne gore u Jerusalimu. Dijamanti su najdragoceniji kamen na svetu, zlato je oličenje plemenitosti, a jerusalimski kamen potiče s najsvetijeg tla na planeti zemlji. Uz svaki komad nakita, delić Jerusalima nosite sa sobom, nosite ga blizu srca, „dodirujući“ tri milenijuma dugu istoriju.

Moriah ili Hramovna gora je mesto na kojem je Gospod od praha sačinio Adama, gde su Kain i Avelj prineli žrtve, gde je Avram na žrtvu ponudio Isaka i gde posejao seme tri velike religije – judaizma, hrišćanstva i islama. Hramovna gora zauzima središnje mesto između planine Zion na kojoj se nalazi Zid plača, ostaci hrama koji je izgradio kralj Solomon i Maslinske gore i Golgote, svetih mesta hrišćana. Sam vrh gore danas se nalazi u središtu džamije Al Aksa gde se, po predanju, prorok Muhaamed uzneo na nebo.

Blio da je reč o privescima ili prstenju, svaki pojedinačni komad ručno je izrađen. U nakit je utkana ideja o zlatnim i dijamantskim komadima DC Moriah krst − privezak na dar Maestro Jewelers, renomirani brend kvalitetnog nakita i satova u Beogradu, nudi široki izbor dijamantskih vereničkih prstenova jedinstvenog dizajna. Uz kupljeni verenički prsten, Maestro Jewelers daruje krst ručne izrade iz limitirane IDC (Israel Diamond Center) ekskluzivne kolekcije nakita Moriah.

Krst je sačinjen od zlata, sa dijamantom, od autentičnog kamena sa Hramovne gore.

koji u svom središtu imaju jerusalimski kamen koji je noseća inspiracija dizajna. Kolekcija se sastoji od komada limitirane izrade uz koje se dobija sertifikat o autentičnosti, kao i priča o simboliima koji su suštinski za Sveti grad. Svaki komad nakita Moriah teži da poveže svakog pojedinca na svetu, bez obzira gde se nalazi, sa unutrašnjom lepotom, mirom i moralnim vrednostima koje su osobine „duha Jerusalima“, a drago kamenje i plemeniti metal koje se koristi u izradi predstavlja snagu ovog čudesnog grada i njegove vrednosti: • Jerusalimski kamen potiče sa najsvetijeg tla na svetu • Dijamant je najskupoceniji kamen koji simbolizuje nepobedivost i večnost • Zlato je najplemenitiji metal koji simbolziuje toplinu Sunca i trajnost Info- M a e s t r o J e w e l e r s • N u š i ć e v a 1 2 a • 1 1 0 0 0 B e l g r a d e • w w w. m a e s t r o . r s

BelGuest

Fall/Winter 2019/2020

81

KOTOR 2020 31.12.

Partibrejkers LaÄ?ni Franz VIS Tetra

1.1.

Bajaga i Instruktori Hladno pivo Light Under the Black Mountain

T I VAT W I N T E R FA I RY TA L E 2020/ Z I M S K A B A J K A U T I V T U 2020

A C o a s ta l I d y l l With a lot of Music “Tivat WINTER FAIRYTALE 2020” begins on 25th November with the big ceremonial opening of the skating rink and a concert of Nataša Bekvalac and Magla Band.

Apart from the skating rink, where citizens and guests of the City will be able to enjoy in the next one month, Riva Pina will also be adorned with ornamented gastro-booths, conjuring up the holiday spirit until the very end of the New Year’s program on January 3rd. In those days, numerous Christmas fairs, charity bazaars, diverse thematic programs, music concerts, daily events of the houses, daylong entertainment for the youngest with “The Magical Forest”, a children’s play on the ice, and a traditional concert given by Leontina and the guests, as well as many other activities participated in by young children of Tivat, will take place.

The main New Year’s program is reserved for 31st December 2019, and the New Year’s party at the concert given by Lexington Band and Miligram, whereas on 1st January 2020, Marija Šerifović and Saša Kovačević will perform. The other part of the program for guests is reserved for Van Gogh (28th December), Vlatko Stefanovski and Rock Symphony (29th December 2019), Pop Symphony-Ana Stanić (2nd January) and many other surprise guests.

The Tivat Winter Fairytale 2020 opens its door to all the lovers of winter enchantments, a holiday atmosphere and good fun, and promises good time to remember.

Experience your fairytale on Riva Pine and the charms of the coastal winter idyll in Tivat.

The program is organized by the Tourism Organization of Tivat in cooperation with the Municipality of Tivat, Porto Montenegro Association of Caterers and Hoteliers, Luštica Bay and the Brand New Tivat company.

We are waiting for you to come to Tivat – be welcome!

PRIMORSKA IDILA UZ MNOGO MUZIKE „Tivat ZIMSKA BAJKA 2020” počinje 25.novembra, velikim svečanim otvaranjem klizališta uz koncert Nataše Bekvalac i Magla Band-a. Rivu Pine će pored klizališta, na kojem će građani, kao i gosti grada moći uživati u narednih mesec dana, krasiti i okićene gastro kućice, dočaravajući prazničan duh sve do završetka Novogodišnjeg programa 3.januara. U tim danima, biće održani brojni božićni sajmovi, humanitarni bazari, raznovrsni tematski sadržaji, muzički koncerti, dnevni događaji kućica, celodnevna zabava za najmlađe uz „Čarobnu šumu”, dječiju predstavu na ledu i tradicionalni koncert Leontine sa gostima, ali i brojne druge aktivnosti tivatskih mališana.

Glavni Novogodišnji program rezervisan je za 31.decembar 2019. godine i doček Nove godine uz koncert Lexington Band-a i Miligram-a, dok će 01. januara 2020. godine nastupiti Marija Šerifović i Saša Kovačević. U ostalom delu programa goste u Tivtu će zabavljati Van Gogh - 28. decembra, Vlatko Stefanovski i Rock Symphony - 29. decembra 2019. godine, Pop simfonija Ane Stanić - 02.januara i mnogi drugi gosti iznenađenja.

Zimska bajka u Tivtu 2020 otvara svoja vrata svim ljubiteljima zimskih čarolija, praznične atmosfere, dobre zabave i garantuje provod za pamćenje.

Doživite svoju bajku na Rivi Pine i iskusite čari primorske zimske idile u Tivtu.

Program organizuje Turistička organizacija Tivat u saradnji sa opštinom Tivat, Udruženjem ugostitelja i hotelijera Porto Montenegrom, Luštica Bay-om i kompanijom Brand New Tivat Čekamo Vas u Tivtu i dobro nam došli.

Info: www.tivat.travel

B e l g u e s t

n e w s

Ambassador of City Tourism After a famous Chinese woman writer, Chen Dan Zhen, the first ambassador of Serbian tourism in China, a famous young actress, Miao Miao, has become Ambassador of City Tourism of Serbia in 2020. This acknowledgment was awarded to her by Marija Labović, acting director of the National Tourism Organization of Serbia, in AKUD “Ivo Lola Ribar” on 25th October 2019. She will present information about her stay in Serbia and the impressions of the famous Chinese actress via social networks and through eight influencers from China.

A visit to the places that might be interesting to the younger population was organized for Ms. Miao and her team, in which way millennials will be made more familiar with Serbia as a tourism destination.

AMBASADOR GRADSKOG TURIZMA Posle čuvene kineske spisateljice Čen Danjen, prvog ambasadora srpskog turizma u Kini, poznata mlada glumica Miao Miao postala je Ambasador gradskog turizma Srbije u 2020. godini. Ovo priznanje uručila joj je Marija Labović, v. d. direktor Turističke organizacije 25. 10. 2019. u prostorijama AKUD„Ivo Lola Ribar“. O boravku u Srbiji i impresijama popularne kineske glumice, koja ima više miliona pratilaca, obaveštavaće preko društvenih mreža i osam influensera iz Kine.

Za gospođicu Miao i njen tim organizovana je poseta mestima koja mogu biti interesantna mlađoj populaciji, te će se na taj način milenijalcima približiti Srbija kao turističku destinaciju.

NTOS in India for the First Time In cooperation with the Turkish Airlines, the National Tourism Organization of Serbia organized the Roadshow – presentations of our tourism offer accompanied by business workshops, namely in two cities, Mumbai and New Delhi, India, for the first time. The interest in it was exceptional – about 120 tour operators and tourism agents came to the talks with already prepared questions and proposals for cooperation. Apart from classical tourism trips and congress tourism, the Indians are also interested in the organization of stimulating journeys for employees in big companies, as well as the organization of wedding ceremonies in our country and making movies of the Bollywood production. By abolishing visas for tourists from India, Serbia has created the preconditions for positioning itself in one of the fastest-growing outbound tourism markets in the world.

TOS PRVI PUT U INDIJI Turistička organizacija Srbije, u saradnji sa Turkish Airlines-om, prvi put je u Indiji organizovala Roadshow – prezentacije naše turističke ponude praćene poslovnim radionicama i to u dva grada, Mumbaju i Nju Delhiju. Interesovanje je bilo izuzetno – oko 120 organizatora putovanja i turističkih agenata došlo je na razgovore sa već pripremljenim upitima i predlozima za saradnju. Osim za klasična turistička putovanja i kongresni turizam, Indijci su zainteresovani i za organizaciju podsticajnih putovanja za zaposlene u velikim kompanijama, kao i za organizaciju venčanja u našoj zemlji i snimanje filmova u bolivudskoj produkciji. Ukidanjem viza za turiste iz Indije, Srbija je stvorila preduslove da se pozicionira na jednom od najbrže rastućih emitivnih turističkih tržišta na svetu.

Spirit of Csárdas at the Heart of Belgrade The Tourism Organization of Vojvodina promoted the gastronomic heritage and the tourism offer of Vojvodina in Belgrade on 15th and 16th Oct. 2019. The citizens of Belgrade and visitors of the Capital “are invited” to visit the destination, learn about its amenities, culture and local gastronomy, by exhibiting the authentic specialties of Vojvodina in Skadarlija; a panel under the name “Repository of Tastes of Vojvodina” was held at the Metropol Palace Hotel together with a promotion of the publication of the same name, and the Night of Vojvodina was organized in Skadarlija, accompanied by the toasts of the Wine Knight and the songs played by tamboura players.

The greatest attractions of Vojvodina can be seen within the tourist packages The Soul of the Autumn in Vojvodina and The Winter on Salash Farms, or The Summer Rhapsody of Vojvodina and A Pannonian Summer Adventure.

DUH ČARDI U SRCU BEOGRADA Turistička organizacija Vojvodine promovisala je u Beogradu gastronomsku baštinu i turističku ponudu Vojvodine 15. i 16. oktobra 2019. godine.

Beograđani i gosti prestonice„pozvani su“ da posete destinaciju, upoznaju njene znamenitosti, kulturu i lokalnu gastronomiju tako što su u Skadarliji izloženi autentični vojvođanski specijaliteti, u hotelu Metropol Palace održan panel„Riznica ukusa Vojvodine“ uz promociju istoimene publikacije, a u Skadarliji organizovano Vojvođansko veče uz zdravice Viteza vina i pesme tamburaša.

Najveće atrakcije Vojvodine mogu se videti u okviru turističkih paketa DUŠA VOJVOĐANSKE JESENI i ZIMA NA SALAŠIMA, ili VOJVOĐANSKA PROLEĆNA RAPSODIJA I PANONSKA LETNJA AVANTURA.

84 Fall/Winter 2019 /2020

BelGuest

B e lg u e s t

V ES T I

HORES – Member of the European Family The Business Association of the Hotel and Restaurant Industry of Serbia (HORES) was admitted to the European Association of Hotels, Restaurants, Bars and Cafés (HOTREC).

As the 44th national member of the European HOTREC Association, HORES will be representing the interests of the hotel-catering economy of Serbia among European hotels, restaurants and cafés. HOTREC offers the Serbian economy great possibilities to develop, position itself, exchange experiences and introduce new business models.

“Having given its support to the Serbian hotel-catering industry and a possibility of presenting and promoting its interests in the European frameworks, HOTREC will increase its effectiveness and efficiency, as well as its undisputable representativeness,” said Jens Zimmer Christensen, HOTREC’s president.

HORES ČLAN EVROPSKE PORODICE Poslovno udruženje hotelsko-ugostiteljske privrede Srbije (HORES) je 17. oktobra 2019. primljeno u Evropsko udruženje hotela, restorana i kafića (HOTREC). Кao 44. nacionalni član Evropskog udruženja HOTREC-a, HORES će predstavljati interese hotelsko-ugostiteljske privrede Srbije među evropskim hotelima, restoranima i kafićima. HOTREC pruža srpskoj privredi velike mogućnosti za razvoj, pozicioniranje, razmenu iskustava i uvođenje novih poslovnih modela.„Pruživši podršku srpskoj hotelsko- ugostiteljskoj industriji i dajući joj mogućnost da predstavi i promoviše svoje interese u evropskim okvirima, HOTREК će povećati svoju efektivnost i efikasnost, kao i nespornu reprezentativnost“, naveo je Jens Zimer Кristensen, predsednik HOTREC-a.

Tourist Prism The Winter Events & Spa Travel Market, a business conference intended to the organizations and companies doing business within the framework of congress tourism, was held in Belgrade (Hyatt Regency Hotel) from 22nd to 23rd Oct. 2019. It was organized by the “Tourist Prism”magazine. Apart from the B2B meetings prepared by WESTM 2019 and the accompanying conferences in the field of information technologies in MICE tourism, the “Belgrade Tourism & MICE Forum” conference, organized by the Tourism Organization of Belgrade and CERTUS – Serbian Tourism Development Center, was also held.

The WESTM 2019 business conference ended traditionally by awarding the TOURIST PRISM Acknowledgment for a New Quality in Tourism, which the Editorial Board of the “Tourist Prism” magazine has been awarding to the most prominent organizations and businesspeople in the tourism industry in the region for already 25 years.

TURISTIČKA PRIZMA Poslovni skup namenjen organizacijama i kompanijama koje posluju u okviru kongresnog turizma, Winter Events & Spa Travel Market, održan je u Beogradu (hotel Hyatt Regency) 22-23. 10. 2109. u organizaciji časopisa „Turistička prizma“. Pored sastanaka B2B koje je pripremio WESTM 2019 i pratećih skupova iz oblasti informacionih tehnologija u MICE turizmu, održana je konferencija “Belgrade tourism & MICE forum”, koju organizuju Turistička organizacija Beograda i CERTUS – Centar za razvoj turizma Srbije.

Poslovni skup WESTM 2019 završen je tradicionalno, dodelom priznanja TURISTIČKA PRIZMA - Za novi kvalitet u turizmu, koje redakcija časopisa„Turistička prizma“ dodeljuje 25 godina najistaknutijim organizacijama i privrednicima turističke industrije u regionu Awards for Stara Pazova The Tourism Organization of Stara Pazova was awarded for its new website at the 15th International Festival of Tourist Publications “A Suitcase with Letters”, which was held in Kruševac on 11th and 12th October 2019. The website is of modern performances and design, has both the Cyrillic and the Latin versions, and also has the versions in the Slovak, English and German languages.

One month later, at the 12th Exhibition of Souvenirs and Tourist Publications held in Leskovac on 14th November, the Tourism Organization of Stara Pazova received yet two other significant awards – for the best souvenir (ranking the first for the innovative and artistically created souvenir of “A man and a woman of Srem”) and in the ‘tourist photography and a collection of photos” category (it ranked second).

NAGRADE ZA STARU PAZOVU Za svoj novi sajt Turistička organizacija Stare Pazove nagrađena je “Bronzanim koferom” na 15. Međunarodnom festivalu turističkih publikacija„Kofer slova“, održanom (11-12) oktobra 2019. u Kruševcu. Sajt ima savremene perfomanse i dizajn, a izrađen je na ćirilici i latinici, kao i na slovačkom, engleskom i nemačkom jeziku.

Mesec dana kasnije, u Leskovcu, na 12. Izložbi suvenira i turističkih publikacija koja je održana 14. novembra, Turistička organizacija Stare Pazove dobila je još dve značajne nagrade: za najbolji suvenir osvojila je prvo mesto inovativnim i umetnićki urađenim suvenirom “Sremac i Sremica”, a u kategoriji turistička fotografija i kolekcija fotografija pripalo joj j je drugo mesto.

BelGuest

Fall/Winter 2019/2020

85

Belgrade

This winter... #SeeSerbia

National Tourism Organisation of Serbia

IN THIS ISSUE/IZ SADRŽAJA 2

2

A R T E X I B I T I O N O F T H E S E R B I A N O R T H O D OX C H U R C H THE TREASURY HAS OPENED UP RIZNICA SE OTVORILA

8

8

B I R T H D AY O F T H E M U S E U M O F A P P L I E D A R T S HISTORY WRITTEN BY SILK ISTORIJA PISANA SVILOM

13

13

A T H E M AT I C T H E AT R I C A L P I E C E BE A GUEST AT SERBIAN SLAVA BUDI GOST NA SRPSKOJ SLAVI

26

26

I N T E R V I E W – B O J A N PAV LO V I Ć BOTH THE FIRST AND THE FOURTH I PRVI I ČETVRTI

32

32

CITY BREAK NOVI SAD FOR BEGINNERS AND THE KNOWLEDGEABLE ZA POČETNIKE I UPUĆENE

44

P H OTO E D I TO R I A L OLD CRAFTS AND SOUVENIRS OF SERBIA STARI ZANATI I SUVENIRI SRBIJE

60

WELLNESS WINTER IN SOKOBANJA BATHING IN WATER AND IN THE AIR KUPKE U VODI I VAZDUHU

66

H OT E L R A M O N D A O F R TA N J A PHENIX UNDERNEATH THE PYRAMID FENIKS POD PIRAMIDOM

74

BELGRADE INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS BEOGRADSKE MEĐUNARODNE ŠKOLE

82

KOTOR & TIVAT WINTER EVENTS ZIMSKI DOGAĐAJI U KOTORU I TIVTU

44

60

66

82

National Tourism Organisation of Serbia /Turistička organizacija Srbije Čika Ljubina 8, 11000 Beograd Phone: +381 11 6557 100 Faks: +381 11 2626 767 office@serbia.travel www.serbia.travel

TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE & SOUVENIR SHOP TURISTIČKI INFORMATIVNI CENTRI I PRODAVNICA SUVENIRA Trg Republike 5, Belgrade Phone: +381 11 3282 712 Avala Tower, Belgrade Phone: +381 11 3908 517