BelGuest summer 2019 by BelGuest redakcija

Belgrade & Serbia Visitors’ Magazine

BELGRADE, NOVI SAD & NIŠ EVENTS & SIGHTSEEING INTERVIEWS &TRAVELOGUES NTOS SOUVENIR SHOP #SEESERBIA: VOJVODINA BEACHES, ZLATAR MOUNTAIN, ČAČAK, IRIG, HIKING AND CYCLING TRAILS & MUCH MORE

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Volume 22, SUMMER 2019

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IN THIS ISSUE/IZ SADRŽAJA 2

A DATE IN ELEGANT TOPČIDER SASTANAK NA OTMENOM TOPČIDERU

T R AV E LO G U E F R O M E G Y P T CORAL SEA AND MOTHER OF CITIES KORALNO MORE I MAJKA GRADOVA

CHRONICLE OF GOOD TIME IN BELGRADE HRONIKA DOBROG PROVODA U BEOGRADU

INTERVIE W - DRAGAN KURUCIĆ THE TRUTH MUST LIE DEEP ISTINA MORA DA LEŽI DUBOKO

RHYTHM OF THE SUMMER IN VOJVODINA RITAM VOJVOĐANSKOG LETA

NIŠ CITY BREAK HOST CITY

GRAD DOMAĆIN 73 73

ACTIVE REST IN SERBIA FROM LOWLANDS TO CRAGGY AREAS OD RAVNICE DO VRLETI

Z L ATA R M O U N TA I N A FRAGMENT FROM A GOLDEN-GREEN SAGA ODLOMAK IZ ZLATNOZELENE SAGE

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BELGRADE INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS BEOGRADSKE MEĐUNARODNE ŠKOLE

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REGION: KOTOR, PETROVAC, RAB

Belgrade&Serbia Visitors’ Magazine Publisher - Izdavač: Izdavačko društvo PONT d.o.o., Beograd Kralja Milutina 46, Beograd Tel./fax + 381 (0) 11 409-5797; mob tel. 063/84 97 582 e-mail: redakcija@belguest.rs www.belguest.rs www.facebook.com/belguestmagazine Partner National Tourism Organization of Serbia Čika Ljubina 8, Beograd For publisher - Za izdavača: Milena Mihaljčić, direktor Editor-in-chief - Glavni i odgovorni urednik: Milena Mihaljčić Executive editor - Izvršni urednik Rozana Sazdić Contributors - Saradnici: Gordana Stojaković, Dragana Barjaktarević, Nataša Drulović, Tihana Putin, Tanja Marković Photographs- Fotografije: Rozana Sazdić, Dragan Bosnić, Svetlana Dingarac, Nikolina Berga, Mirjana Sukiban, BelGuest Photo Archive, Tourist Organization of Belgrade Photo Archive, National Tourism Organization of Serbia Photo Archive, Tourist Organization of Novi Sad Photo Archive, Tourist Organization of Niš Photo Archive Translation - Prevod: Slobodan Rakić, Euro-Translations Agency Beograd Marketing: Pont Design & Layout- Dizajn i prelom: Lidija Taranović, Pozitiv MVP Front Page - Naslovna strana: Aleksandar Bubanja: Zlatar, Uvac, Sjeničko Lake in the Tufts of Fog Print - Štampa: Službeni glasnik, Beograd BelGuest quarterly is registered with the Republic of Serbia media registry no: 651-03-168/2000-03 BelGuest magazin upisan je u registar glasila Republike Srbije pod brojem: 651-03-168/2000-03 © copyright: Pont CIP - Katalogizacija u publikaciji Narodna biblioteka Srbije, Beograd 338.4 BelGuest : Belgrade & Serbia Visitors’ Magazine / editor-in-chief Milena Mihaljčić. - 2001, winter/spring - Beograd : Pont, 2001(Beograd : Službeni glasnik). - 28 cm Dostupno i na: http://www.belguest.rs. Tromesečno. - Sa specijalnim izdanjem 2010: Događaji Beograda ISSN 1451-6446 = Bel Guest COBISS.SR-ID 71794956

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A Date in Elegant TopÄ?ider Thanks to cooperation of several city cultural institutions and the enthusiasm of two young women historians of art, we have an opportunity to discover the elegant quarters of Belgrade within the Cultural Heritage of TopÄ?ider thematic walk every last Saturday in a month.

The house of King Peter the First

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One can never be bored with Belgrade. Even when you come to think you know its every pocket, an opportunity will arise for you to get to love it even more. The Cultural Heritage of Topčider thematic walk is exactly the experience which will make you happy to have been born in Belgrade or to have followed the road to here. At first sight, Topčider is the tranquil streets with a view of the whole of the city from its crossroads, the magnificent villas, the yards where foreign languages may be heard, and the greenery all around. Yet, the Cultural Heritage of Topčider opens the doors of homes, galleries, embassies, garages… to us, which have risen to the level of an institution due to their importance. And it seems that there is no better way to get to know those simultaneously quiet and important quarters than by having one such walk – from the outside, from the inside, at a given moment, and from a historical perspective. A Customized Walk The Cultural Heritage of Topčider is a joint project implemented by the seven houses of Topčider: the Museum of African Art, the House of King Peter the First, the Legacy House – Petar Lubarda’s Legacy, the Yugoslav Archive, the Public Aquarium and Tropicarium of Belgrade, the Vespa Museum of Serbia, and the Embassy of the Arab Republic of Egypt. The idea of inter-institutional cooperation had also been present before only to be realized by the art women historians Ana Knežević, a female curator at the Museum of African Art, and Ivana Zatežić, a female associate of the Legacy House, in 2017. They thought out a tour of two hours of a slow walk and conversation in the triangle consisting of the Museum of African Art, the House of King Peter the First, and Petar Lubarda’s Legacy. The first tour took place within the European Heritage Day, when they were walking with more than 150 participants. Due to a great interest shown by domestic and foreign “walkers”, after the end of the event, the program became part of the regular offer of those three institutions. Over time, other institutions from the neighborhood also joined them, so that had an influence on the diversity of their monthly programs, too. The walk takes places every last Saturday in a month and includes visits to three out of the seven mentioned locations. For a detailed program for the forthcoming period – inclusive of the dates and the itineraries – please refer to the website of the Museum of African Art at www.mau.rs

The exhibition setting in the House of King Peter the First

Petar Lubarda's Legacy

Flowing History On the second to the last Saturday in April, BelGuest was a guest of the Cultural Heritage of Topčider tour. It was an escape to the tranquility of the Topčider quarters from the pre-holiday hysteria, and the time of two and a half hours in the mild April sun and a handful of flowing history. We were discovering the Museum of African Art, the House of King Peter the First, for the first time within the framework of the regular program, the Vespa Museum of Serbia. We learnt, among other things, how to play mankala, the oldest African social game; that wearing the crown of a cast cannon was to King Peter proportional to ruling the Serbian nation; that after all, in the movie “Love and Fashion”, Beba Lončar did not ride a Vespa. We discovered the phenomenal things that had always been before our eyes. Yet, that was but a small segment of the cultural heritage of Topčider. In brief, we had a feeling as if we were tourists in our own city. For this reason, this tour is neither only meant for tourist nor only for our fellow townsmen. So far, more than a thousand people have participated in that walk. Ana Knežević explains who they have been discovering Topčider with so far: - The audience visiting the Cultural Heritage of Topčider is diverse. Friends, married couples, families, elderly people, the youth – they all take part in the walk; as one of the interesting things, however, there is a young couple who chose this walk for their date. As often as not tourists in our city also choose the Cultural Heritage of Topčider: a group of travelers from the Republic of South Africa wanted to tour exactly those quarters of Belgrade; Chinese students learning the Serbian language decided to have their minipractice class exactly in that walk; a delegation of the Embassy of the Arab Republic of Egypt made themselves familiar in more detail with their neighborhood exactly via the Cultural Heritage of Topčider; the wives of foreign military representatives in our country also decided to go for a walk through those quarters of Belgrade; male and pedagogues to be adapted their students’ exercise to this walk. Always on Saturdays No matter why – either in order to take advantage of the nice weather, or make a gray day more beautiful, or ask your girlfriend out for a date or organize your company’s teambuilding outdoor, whether you live in Belgrade or you are a tourist in transit, or a lover of the Vespa or Lubarda’s works… just head for Topčider on the very next last Saturday in the month. There is also a possibility of organizing a “customized walk” in Serbian or in English for smaller groups on any other day. An inquiry should be sent at least three business days earlier to the email address: kulturnabastinatopcidera@gmail.com. Dragana Barjaktarević Photo: Dragana Barjaktarević, Culturale Heritage of Topčider

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Petar Lubarda's Legacy

A Unique Legacy from the Time of the Non-Allied Movement The Museum of African Art is the first and the only museum in the region which is exclusively dedicated to the cultures and arts of the African Continent. Apart from inheriting different artistic objects of the people of Western Africa, thematic exhibitions inspired by African culture are held at the Museum from time to time.

The Vespa Museum

#kulturnabastinatopcidera Just to make sure we’re not the only ones to be praising them! Today at least it’s easy to gain an impression from the horse’s mouth. Just search for a particular hashtag on Instagram, and there it is – live broadcast, a story, a photo, a gallery,… from any place and of any event throughout the world. The Cultural Heritage of Topčider also has its hashtag: #kulturnabastinatopcidera or #culturalheritageoftopcider, like some modern book of impressions available to every one to have a look at it and register.

BelGuest Spring/Summer 2019

S K R I V E N E

L E P O T E

B E O G R A D A

SASTANAK NA OTMENOM TOPČIDERU Zahvaljujući saradnji nekoliko gradskih ustanova kulture i entuzijazmu dve mlade istoričarke umetnosti, imamo priliku da svake poslednje subote u mesecu, u okviru tematske šetnje Kulturna baština Topčidera, otkrivamo taj otmeni beogradski kraj.

Petar Lubarda's Legacy

Beograd ne može da dosadi. I kad pomislite da znate svaki njegov džep, iskrsnuće prilika da ga zavolite još više. Tematska šetnja Kulturna baština Topčidera upravo je iskustvo zbog kojeg ćete biti srećni što ste se rodili u Beogradu ili što vas je put tu doveo. Na prvi pogled, Topčider su mirne ulice sa čijih raskrsnica pogled puca na ceo grad, velelepne vile, dvorišta iz kojih dopiru strani jezici, a zelenilo je posvuda. Kulturna baština Topčidera, pak, otvara nam vrata domova, galerija, ambasada, garaža… koje je važnost uzdigla na nivo institucije. I čini se ne postoji bolji način da se upozna taj istovremeno tih i bitan kraj nego jednom takvom šetnjom – spolja, iznutra, u datom trenutku i tokom istorije.

6 Summer 2019

BelGuest

ŠETNJA PO MERI Kulturna baština Topčidera zajednički je projekat sedam topčiderskih kuća: Muzej afričke umetnosti, Kuća kralja Petra, Kuća legata – Legat Petra Lubarde, Arhiv Jugoslavije, Javni akvarijum i tropikarijum Beograd, Vespa muzej Srbija i Ambasada Arapske Republike Egipat. Ideja o međuinstitucijalnoj saradnji postojala je i ranije, a 2017. godine u delo su je i sprovele istoričarke umetnosti Ana Knežević, kustoskinja Muzeja afričke umetnosti, i Ivana Zatežić, saradnica Kuće legata. Osmislile su turu od oko dva sata lagane šetnje i razgovora u trouglu: Muzej afričke umetnosti, Kuću kralja Petra I i Legat Petra Lubarde. Prva tura održana je u okviru Dana evropske baštine, kada su se šetale sa više od sto pedeset učesnika. Zbog velikog interesovanja domaćih i stranih „šetača“, posle završetka manifestacije, program je postao deo redovne ponude te tri ustanove. S vremenom su im se pridružile i druge institucije iz komšiluka, pa je to uticalo i na raznovrsnost programa na mesečnom planu. Šetnja se održava svake poslednje subote u mesecu i podrazumeva obilazak tri od sedam pomenutih lokacija. Detaljan program za predstojeći period – sa datumima i maršrutama, može se naći na sajtu Muzeja afričke umetnosti: www.mau.rs

PITKA ISTORIJA Pretposlednje aprilske subote BelGuest bio je gost ture Kulturna baština Topčidera. Bilo je to sklanjanje u topčiderski mir od pretpraznične histerije i dva i po sata na blagom aprilskom suncu i pregršt pitke istorije.Otkrivali smo Muzej afričke umetnosti, Kuću kralja Petra I, premijerno u okviru redovnog programa, Vespa muzej Srbije. Naučili smo, između ostalog, kako se igra mankala, najstarija afrička društvena igra. I da je kralju Petru nošenje krune od izlivenog topa bilo srazmerno vladavini srpskim narodom. Da Beba Lončar u filmu „Ljubav i moda“ ipak ne vozi vespu. Otkrili smo fenomenalne stvari koje su nam sve vreme bile pred nosom. A otkrili smo tek delić kulturnog nasleđa Topčidera. Ukratko, osećaj je bio kao da smo turisti u sopstvenom gradu. Zato, ova tura nije ni samo za turiste, a ni samo za sugrađane. Do sada je više od hiljadu ljudi bilo deo te šetnje. O tome s kim su do sada sve istraživale Topčider, Ana Knežević nam je ispričala: - Publika koja posećuje Kulturnu baštinu Topčidera veoma je raznolika. U šetnji učestvuju prijatelji, bračni parovi, porodice, stariji ljudi, omladina, ali kao jedna od zanimljivosti izdvaja se i mladi par koji je za svoj sastanak izabrao baš ovu šetnju. Kulturnu baštinu Topčidera neretko biraju i turisti u našem gradu: grupa putnika iz Južnoafričke Republike želela je da obiđe baš taj deo Beograda, studenti iz Kine koji uče srpski jezik odlučili su se da svoju mini praksu imaju upravo na toj šetnji, delegacija Ambasade Arapske Republike Egipat upravo se kroz Kulturnu baštinu Topčidera detaljnije upoznala sa svojim komšilukom, supruge stranih vojnih predstavnika u našoj zemlji takođe su se odlučile na šetnju kroz taj deo Beograda, budući vaspitači i vaspitačice svoje studentske vežbe prilagodili su ovoj šetnji.

BelGuest

Summer 2019

UVEK SUBOTOM Bilo da hoćete da iskoristite lepo vreme, ulepšate tmuran dan, da izvedete devojku na sastanak ili firmu na timbilding, da živite u Beogradu ili da ste turista u prolazu, da ste zaljubljenik u vespe ili obožavalac Lubardnih dela... zaputite se na Topčider već sledeće poslednje subote u mesecu. Postoji i mogućnost da se bilo kog dana organizuje „šetnja po meri“ na srpskom ili engleskom jeziku za manje grupe. Upit je potrebno poslati bar tri radna dana ranije na mejl kulturnabastinatopcidera@gmail.com. Dragana Barjaktarević foto: Dragana Barjaktarević, Kulturna baština Topčidera Jedinstveni legat iz doba Pokreta nesvrstanih Muzej afričke umetnosti prvi je i jedini muzej u regionu koji je isključivo posvećen kulturama i umetnostima afričkog kontinenta. Pored toga što baštini različite umetničke predmete naroda zapadne Afrike, u Muzeju se održavaju i povremene tematske izložbe inspirisane afričkom kulturom.

The ritual masks exhibition setting, Museum of African Arts #kulturnabastinatopcidera Da ne bude da ih samo mi hvalimo! Danas je bar lako dobiti impresiju iz prve ruke. Samo potražite određeni haštag na Instagramu i eto ga – prenos uživo, priča, slika, galerija… sa svakog mesta i događaja na planeti. I Kulturna baština Topčidera ima svoj haštag: #kulturnabastinatopcidera ili #culturalheritageoftopcider, poput neke moderne knjige utisaka, svima dostupne za razgledanje i upisivanje.

8 Summer 2019

BelGuest

National Tourism Organisation of Serbia /Turistička organizacija Srbije Čika Ljubina 8, 11000 Beograd Phone: +381 11 6557 100 Faks: +381 11 2626 767 office@serbia.travel www.serbia.travel

TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE & SOUVENIR SHOP TURISTIČKI INFORMATIVNI CENTRI I PRODAVNICA SUVENIRA Trg Republike 5, Belgrade Phone: +381 11 3282 712 Avala Tower, Belgrade Phone: +381 11 3908 517

CORAL SEA AND MOTHER OF CITIES The Embassy of Egypt in Serbia is working hard to connect our two, provenly friendly, countries. This year, Egypt is the partner-country of the October Book Fair in Belgrade. By the beginning of next year already, it will also be a partner-country of the Tourism Fair. Air Serbia has recently re-established a regular Belgrade-Cairo flight. This is just a small fraction of the achieved initiatives, with a special focus on tourism, too.

One of the first moves H.E. Amr Aljowaily made immediately upon his appointment as ambassador was generous. Having gained an insight into issued visa protocols, he found that there were people who spent their summer holidays at the Red Sea year after year, and decided to reward them. As early as in September last year, those people flew to Hurghada as respected guests of the Governor of the Region, General Ahmed Abdulah. Together with the most loyal tourists, the first media delegation also went there. The next visit of the media representatives was organized at the end of January this year, including the journalists of the major media companies: Radio Belgrade, Večernje novosti, Blic, TV Pink, Kurir, as well as those of specialized media – Hello Travel, Pečat, ArtTema, Teodora Miljković, Executive at VR All Art & Marketing and our BelGuest Magazine. EASTERN DESERT PARADISES We arrived in Hurghada with the first sunrays. A small rectangular area of the airplane’s window was colored in yellow. One could only see sand – and nothing but sand. If the blue strip of the seashore hadn’t appeared on the horizon, I would’ve thought that we were landing onto

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some waterless planet. Although it’s widely known that the largest part of Egypt is the desert, the impression was still strong, only to be yet more memorable once you realize how many beautiful edifices have been built in such an ambient. If the Dutch are said to “have reclaimed their land from the swamp”, the Egyptians may be said to be “reclaiming their land from the desert”. We were accommodated at the Titanic Beach, one of the many luxury resorts spreading kilometers along the seashore. Everything in it was spick and span: the marble staircases and the sculptures worthy of European palaces, the grandiose stained-glass domes, the elegant pieces of furniture… In the center, there is a swimming-pool complex surrounded by the greenery. You soon realize that you’re in a small city, where everything is subordinated to you. Although I hadn’t understood the advantages of such “projected paradises” before the encounter with the Titanic Beach, considering them to be putting you into a sort of isolation, I pretty soon felt the charms of this tourism concept, where you don’t have to think of anything at all. On the other hand, you can always arrange to meet people and learn about the tradition of the place.

OUR GUIDE METI Our guide introduced himself as Meti. He’s a Copt. He had completed an accelerated Serbian language course, and spoke Serbian fluently, making charming mistakes. He said his other colleagues also learnt Serbian because of an increasing number of our tourists. Together, we headed for the El Dahar, the core of Hurghada, which had been a small fishermen’s village until half a century ago. We first visited the El Mina Masjid Mosque, then the Coptic Church of St. Shenouda. It was unusual to come across soon-to-be-married couples in the evening, but Meti explained it is a time-honored Coptic custom since in the past, in the time of dangerous religious intolerances, the just-married spent their first night protected by the safety of the temple. Egyptians generally favor evenings, certainly because heats have already abated, so we found our midnight visit to a seething green marketplace to be particularly picturesque. We bought fresh dates and fruits, admiring the giantsize cabbage and eggplant which can only grow from the fertile soil of the Nile. Meti then took us to one of the trendy spaces – a nautical marina, with a lot of cafés and restaurants, where a shisha – smoking tobacco from richly decorated narghiles – is the main attraction. SPRING OF MONASTIC CIVILIZATION The next day, we set off to Cairo, planning to pay a visit to the two Coptic monasteries hidden amongst the hills of the Red Mountains on our way, deviating slightly from the highway. We first came to St. Paul’s Monastery, encompassed by the tall ramparts that, as we learnt, had been built by the Byzantine Emperor Justinian the First. We were welcomed by monk Ignacius, who told us about St. Paul, “the first desert father”, who is believed to have introduced asceticism to Christianity. He showed us a miracle above all the miracles of this savage and brutal landscape – the small spring thanks to which St. Paul had survived, depriving himself of all redundant desires of this world. At St. Antonio’s Monastery, we were welcomed by prior Ruis, who told us about Antonio, a rich young man from Alexandria, who sold off his property and became a hermit. A larger part of his life he spent in prayer, lying in a stone “bed” he himself chiseled in a solid rock. This monastery, reputed to be the oldest in the world, was later erected in the place of his ascetic exploit. LANGUAGE OF SIRENS AND GLITTERING NILE It took as little time to cross quite a long distance from St. Antonio’s Monastery to Cairo’s suburbs, but almost every kilometer of our forcing our way through the traffic jam in the city of a population of about 8 mill. was an exceptional accomplishment. Everybody is an equal participant in traffic: from rikshawdrivers to those in giant transportation vehicles. Milica Đilas, a journalist of the Radio Belgrade, attentively recorded the sounds produced by this eternal rush hour, observing that there was a special language of communication by sirens, perfectly “spoken” by everyone. We stayed at the Grand Nile Tower, a hotel located exactly on the riverbank. Its high floors offer a spectacular night view of the surface of the water with the lights of the skyscrapers reflecting in it and brightly illuminated boats sailing across it. The next evening, we were the guests of the Ministry of Tourism, who had invited us to cruise the Nile. Apart from a close encounter with the mythical river, the music and the national dance gladdened our hearts, too. We watched the tanoura traditional dance and the performance of dervishes and a very talented belly dancer.

Access to St. Paul's Monastery

A small museum setting of St. Paul's Monastery

The bell towers of the church of St. Antonio's Monastery

A view of the city from the Grand Nile Tower

The Delegation with General Ahmed Abdulah - Governor of the Red Sea Region

BelGuest

Summer 2019

HERITAGE OF THE VICTOR Cairo is a city impossible to fully understand. It is called “the mother of the world” and “the mother of the cities”; its Arabic name means “the place of Mars”, i.e. the one who always comes out as the winner. Today’s megalopolis also includes the ancient capitals of Heliopolis and Memphis. Tourists are most interested in sightseeing the old city core, where Khan El-Khalili – the bazaar with the allies and passages literally soaked with the spirit of the Islamic world, skillful and artistically talented in numerous crafts – is also located. We didn’t have enough time to visit the magnificent mosques and the Coptic Quarters, but we did visit the Egyptian Museum, which exhibits the precious assets we’ve all already learnt about as kids. To see Tutankhamun’s Collection was really exciting, as well as the story of the Stone of Rosetta, whose deciphering initiated the understanding of the ancient and still enigmatic Egyptian civilization.

The new mosque for the new capital

ORION, SIRIUS, PROCYON The plateau in Giza with the famous Grand Pyramids is certainly a ‘must’. Not a single photo, no matter how good, can evoke the power of this space. Only when at the foot of the Khufu’s Pyramid can you comprehend its grandiosity. No technology enabling building anything similar to it in the 21st century has been developed yet. But, it’s just one part of the mystery. The three pyramids are so spatially located that they correspond to the pattern of the stars of the Orion Belt. The mysterious Great Sphynx of Giza, chiseled in a stone monolith, exuding all around itself a feeling of tranquility and blissfulness, has faced the Leo Constellation on the horizon since about 11000 years ago. The appearance of the stars Procyon, from the Canis Minor Constellation, and Sirius, from the Canis Major Constellation, on the horizon used to announce the beginning of the annual flooding of the Nile, once existentially important for the survival of the empire. Old Egyptians knew in great detail the rhythm of the “star clock” and incorporated incredible proportions and mathematical knowledge in the pyramids. That hidden essence is truly exciting and is yet to be understood and recognized.

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BelGuest

Scenes from the old Cairo bazaar

NEW, SMART CAPITAL One of the pearls on this journey was also a visit to the future capital city. Namely, about half-way between Cairo and the Suez, a megapolis of the size of Paris is being built, in which about 6.5 mill. people will live. “The beauty of Cairo is fading away due to insupportable over-population, excessive crowdedness and pollution. Egypt’s authorities found a solution before Cairo disappears. We’re building a city on the new land. It’s our right to have our dream, and make it come true. This will be the first smart city in Egypt,” says Haled el Huseini Soliman on behalf of the designers’ consortium. A grandiose mosque was erected at the entrance to the new capital, and an equally imposing Coptic church at the exit. We toured the part where the building intended for all ministries, and the Parliament edifice, are in the final construction stage. This endeavor will certainly continue into forthcoming decades, but its preliminary creators and constructors will be able to proudly say they’re worthy ancestors of pharaohs.

UNSEEN BEFORE Immediately beneath the Giza Plateau, an edifice that will certainly excite the world emerged – the Great Museum of Egypt. Under one roof, it will present the whole “pharaoh” civilization. The museum complex, whose construction is completely finished, will exhibit on its nearly 500 000 m2 the most valuable artifacts, and will include a theater, a cinema, shops, cafés… It will be the biggest on the planet in terms of its space and content, too. “Most archaeologists and Egyptologists, and restorers, are impatient and excited to see the project end. We built the biggest conservation center in the world, with 17 specialized workshops and labs,” said Tarek Tavfik, Museum’s director. We were honored to walk through several conservation hi-tech labs. We saw Pharaoh Ramses’ gold-plated chair, the litter ornamented with a stylized wild cat with the blue muzzle and the lively eyes, a piece of a silk fabric the pharaoh was wrapped in, which is hardly damaged at all after so many millennia.

HURGHADA’S TOURIST ATTRACTIONS Beside the long sand beaches, a myriad of aqua parks and scuba-diving centers, there’s also the grand Aquarium showing the whole of the tropical sea’s rich living world, and the newlyopened sand sculpture museum, as well as the special-purpose center with the so cute and well-trained couple of dolphins – Sergey, the male, and Sysy, the female – performing their show. You can see the beauties of the desert landscapes and the challenges it offers through numerous safari programs, inevitably including camel-riding and quad races. Excursions to Gifton Island, famous for its nicely-arranged beaches and rich scuba-diving “terrains”, are one of the relaxing attractions Hurghada offers.

El Mina Masjid Mosque, Hurghada

The main hall of the Egyptian Museum

I HAVE TO RETURN Judging by the amount of impressions and how many people I met, my 7-day stay in Egypt seems incomparably longer. Since it was my first stay there, one whole new world opened up to me. I can’t stop thinking about this enigmatic country so different from, but yet having something in common with ours: we both were part of the Roman, Byzantine and Ottoman empires. In a more recent history, we both fought to survive in the world divided by superpowers. A friend of mine told me he’d been to Egypt exactly 41 times. Previously, I’d only have raised my eyebrows, considering this world to have so many countries worth visiting. Now, I understand him.

SUN PLANT PAPYRUS In Cairo, we also visited the famous papyrus gallery, where we attended the presentation of the technology of its making. Leaves of this marsh plant are like sunrays, and its stem has the shape of an isosceles triangle. Off the gallery walls, both pharaohs and empresses, Moses taking out his people across the Red Sea, and Mary, Joseph and little Jesus, who found their refuge in Egypt, sheltering from Herod’s rage, watched us. These motifs imprinted on the “paper of the Sun plant” lively testify to Egypt as the “umbilical cord of civilization”.

Milena Mihaljčić Photo by: Nikolina Berga

REDUNDANT BARCODES It’s such a pleasure to trade with the Egyptians. Every shop has a corner where they offer you tea and converse with you as long as needed to make you finally purchase something. The “transaction” value is actually unimportant. The ritual beginning with mutual introduction is essential. Thus, the things assume individuality and become much dearer and closer to you.

BelGuest

Summer 2019

KORALNO MORE I MAJKA GRADOVA Jedan od prvih poteza koje je NJ.E. Amr Aljowaily odmah po postavljenju za ambasadora povukao bio je velikodušan. Uvidom u protokole izdatih viza ustanovio je da postoje ljudi koji iz godine u godinu letuju na Crvenom moru i odlučio je da ih nagradi. Već u septembru prošle godine odleteli su za Hurgadu i bili uvaženi gosti guvernera regije, generala Ahmeda Abdulaha. Uz najvernije turiste, u posetu je krenula i prva medijska delegacija. Sledeća poseta predstavnika medija organizovana je krajem januara ove godine. U njoj su bili novinari velikih kuća: Radio Beograda, Večernjih novosti, Blica, TV Pinka, Kurira, ali i predstavnici specijalizovanih medija – Hello Travel-a, Pečata, ArtTeme, urednice Teodore Miljković iz VR All Art & Makrketing, kao i našeg BelGuest Magazina. RAJEVI ISTOČNE PUSTINJE U Hurgadu stižemo s prvim zracima sunca. Mali pravougaonik avionskog prozora obojen je u žuto. Vidi se samo pesak, pesak i ništa više. I da se na obzorju nije pojavila plava traka morske obale, pomislila bih da slećemo na neku bezvodnu planetu. Premda je opštepoznato da je najveći deo egipatske teritorije pustinja, utisak je ipak snažan, a on postaje još upečatljiviji kada uvidite koliko je lepih zdanja izgrađeno u takvom ambijentu. Ako se za Holanđane kaže da su svoju zemlju „oteli od mora“ i za Egipćane se može reći da svoju zemlju „otimaju od pustinje“. Smešteni smo u Titanic Beach-u, jednom od mnogih luksuznih resort-a koji se protežu kilometrima duž morske obale. U njemu sve blista: mermerna stepeništa i skulpture dostojne evropskih palata, grandiozne kupole-vitraži, elegantan nameštaj... U središtu je kompleks bazena okružen zelenilom. Ubrzo shvatate da ste u malom gradu gde vam je sve podređeno. Premda, do susreta s Titanic Beach-om, nisam shvatala prednosti „projektovanih rajeva“, smatrajući da vas stavljaju u svojevrsnu izolaciju, ubrzo sam osetila čari ovog koncepta turizma, gde zaista nemate potrebu da o bilo čemu brinete. A želju za susretima i upoznavanjem s tradicijom mesta sebi uvek možete upriličiti.

14 Summer 2019

BelGuest

St. Antonio's Monastery: a view from the main gate

Ambasada Egipta u Srbiji snažno radi na povezivanju naše dve, osvedočeno prijateljske, zemlje. Ove godine Egipat je zemlja partner oktobarskog Sajma knjiga u Beogradu. Već početkom naredne godine biće i zemlja partner Sajma turizma. Air Serbia je nedavno ponovo uspostavila redovan let između Beograda i Kaira. Ovo je tek delić ostvarenih inicijativa, a turizam je, svakako, tema u posebnom fokusu.

NAŠ VODIČ METI Dobili smo vodiča koji nam se predstavio kao Meti. On je Kopt, završio je ubrzani tečaj srpskog koji govori tečno, simpatično grešeći. Kaže da ga, zbog sve većeg broja naših turista, uče i druge kolege. Zajedno krećemo u El Dahar, jezgro Hurgade koja je do pre pola veka bila ribarsko seoce. Obilazimo prvo džamiju El Mina Masjid, a potom i koptsku crkvu Sv. Šenoude. Bilo nam je neobično što smo u večernjim satima susreli mladence, ali Meti nam je objasnio da je to drevni koptski običaj jer su nekada, u doba opasnih verskih netrpeljivosti, tek venčani parovi svoju prvu bračnu noć provodili zaštićeni sigurnošću hrama. Veče je Egipćanima inače omiljeno doba dana svakako zato što tada vrućine uminu, pa nam je posebno bio živopisan ponoćni obilazak uzavrele zelene pijace. Kupujemo sveže urme i voće, diveći se kupusu i patližanu divovskih dimenzija koje može da rodi samo crnica Nila. Meti nas odvodi i u jedan od mondenskih prostora – nautičku marinu gde se nalazi niz kafea i restorana i gde je glavna atrakcija šiša – uvlačenje dima iz bogato dekorisanih nargila.

Our host - Monk Ignacie

One of 17 conservation labs of the Grand Egyptian Museum

Coptic book of divine service

IZVOR MONAŠKE CIVILIZACIJE Sutradan krećemo ka Kairu. U planu je da usput, uz malo skretanje sa autoputa, obiđemo dva koptska manastira skrivena među bregovima Crvenih planina. Prvo dolazimo da manastira Sv. Pavla, opasanog visokim zidinama koje je, kako saznajemo, izgradio vizantijski car Justinijan I. Dočekuje nas monah Ignjatije i pripoveda o Sv. Pavlu, „prvom žitelju pustinje“ koji je, veruje se, u hrišćanstvo uveo isposnički način života. Pokazuje nam čudo nad čudima ovog surovog predela – maleni izvor zahvaljujući kojem je prvi pustinjak uspeo da opstane, lišavajući se svih suvišnih ovozemaljskih prohteva. U manastiru Sv. Antonija dočekuje nas iguman Ruis koji nam pripoveda o Antoniju, bogatom mladiću iz Aleksandrije koji je rasprodao sav imetak i otisnuo se u podvižništvo. Veći deo života proveo je u molitvi, ležeći u kamenoj „postelji“, koju je sam isklesao u steni. Na mestu njegovih podviga kasnije je podignut ovaj manastir koji slovi za najstariji na svetu.

JEZIK SIRENA I SVETLUCAVI NIL Izraženo vremenom, priličnu udaljenost od manastira Sv. Antonija do predgrađa Kaira brzo smo prešli, ali je gotovo svaki kilometar probijanja kroz saobraćajnu gužvu grada u kojem živi oko osam miliona ljudi bio poseban podvig. Svi su ravnopravni učesnici u saobraćaju: od rikši do golemih transportnih lađa. Milica Đilas, novinarka Radio Beograda, pažljivo snima zvuke koje proizvodi ovaj večiti špic i zapaža da postoji jedan poseban jezik sporazumevanja trubama kojim svi perfektno „govore“. Smeštamo se u Grand Nile Tower, hotel na samoj obali reke. Sa visokih spratova kule pruža se spektakularan noćni pogled na površinu vode u kojoj se ogledaju svetla nebodera i plove jarko osvetljeni brodovi. Već sledeće večeri bili smo gosti Ministarstva turizma koje nas je pozvalo na krstarenjem Nilom. Osim bliskog susreta s mitskom rekom, razgalila nas je i muzika i nacionalni ples. Izvedena je tanura, nastupili su derviši, vrsna trbušna plesačica.

BelGuest

Summer 2019

NASLEĐE POBEDNIKA Kairo je grad koji je nemoguće spoznati. Nazivaju ga „majkom sveta“ i „majkom gradova“, a njegovo ime na arapskom znači „onaj koji savladava“, odnosno uvek izlazi kao pobednik. Današnji megapolis obuhvata i drevne prestonice Heliopolis i Memfis. Turistima je najzanimljivije razgledanje starog gradskog jezgra gde se, između ostalog, nalazi Han El-Halili – bazar čije su uličice i pasaži doslovno natopljeni duhom islamskog sveta, veštog i umetnički nadarenog u brojnim zanatima. Nismo imali dovoljno vremena da posetimo velelepne džamije i koptsku četvrt, ali smo uspeli da posetimo Egipatski muzej u kojem su izložene dragocenosti o kojima smo svi odmalena učili. Susret uživo s Tutankamonovom zbirkom zaista je uzbudljiv, kao i priča o Kamenu iz Rozete, čijim je dešifrovanjem otpočelo odgonetanje drevne i još uvek enigmatične egipatske civilizacije.

Monks' quarters in St. Antonio's Monastery

NOVA, PAMETNA PRESTONICA Jedan od bisera ovog putovanja bila je i poseta budućem glavnom gradu. Naime, na oko pola puta između Kaira i Sueca niče megapolis veličine Pariza u kojem će živeti oko šest i po miliona ljudi. „Lepota Kaira iščezava usled nepodnošljive prenaseljenosti, preopterećenosti i zagađenosti. Egipatske vlasti su pronašle rešenje pre nego što Kairo nestane. Pravimo grad na novoj zemlji. Imamo pravo da imamo svoj san. Imamo pravo i da ga ostvarimo. Ovo će biti prvi pametni grad u Egiptu“, kaže nam Haled el Huseini Soliman, ispred projektantskog konzorcijuma. Na ulazu u novi grad podignuta je grandiozna džamija, a na izlazu isto toliko impozantna koptska crkva. Obišli smo deo gde su u završnoj fazi izgradnje zgrade svih ministarstava, kao i zdanje Parlamenta. Ovo je poduhvat koji će sigurno trajati narednih decenija, ali će njegovi idejni tvorci i graditelji moći da kažu da su dostojni potomci faraona. The new Coptic church in the new capita

ORION, SIRIJUS, PROKION Plato u Gizi na kojem se nalaze čuvene Velike piramide svakako je nazaobilazno mesto za posetu. Ni jedna, ma kako dobra fotografija, ne može da dočara snagu ovog prostora. Tek kada stanete u podnožje Keopsove piramide shvatite njenu veličanstvenost. Ni do dana današnjeg nije osvojena tehnologija s kojom bismo u 21. veku izgradili nešto slično. No, to je tek jedan deo misterije. Tri piramide su prostorno postavljene tako da odgovaraju rasporedu zvezda Orionovog pojasa. Tajanstvena Velika sfinga, isklesana od jednog kamenog monolita, koja oko sebi širi osećaj spokoja i blaženstva, gleda u pravcu sazveđa Lava na horizontu od pre oko jedanaest hiljada godina. Pojava zvezde Prokion iz sazvežđa Mali pas i zvezde Sirijus iz sazvežđa Veliki pas na obzorju najavljivale su početak godišnjeg plavljenja Nila, što je bilo od životne važnosti za opstanak carstva. Stari Egipćani su do tančina poznavali ritam „zvezdanog časovnika“ i u piramide su ugradili neverovatne proporcije i matematička znanja. Ta skrivena suština istinski je uzbudljiva i tek treba da se rastumači i spozna.

16 Summer 2019

BelGuest

Great Pyramid of Giza

NIKAD VIĐENO Neposredno ispod platoa u Gizi nikla je jedna građevina koja će sigurno uzbuditi svet. Reč je o Velikom muzeju Egipta koji će pod jednim krovom predstaviti celokupnu „faraonsku“ civilizaciju. U muzejskom kompleksu, koji je u potpunosti građevinski završen, na bezmalo pola miliona kvadrata biće izloženi najvredniji artefakti, tu će biti pozorište, bioskop, prodavnice, kafei... Po prostoru, ali i po sadržaju, biće najveći na planeti. „Većina arheologa i egiptologa s nestrpljenjem očekuje ostvarenje velikog projekta. Ali, ne samo oni, uzbuđeni su i restauratori. Izgradili smo najveći konzervatorski centar na svetu, sa sedamnaest specijalizovanih radionica i laboratorija“, rekao nam je Tarek Tavfik, direktor Muzeja. A onda smo imali čast da se prošetamo kroz nekoliko konzervatorskih hitech laboratorija. Videli smo pozlaćenu stolicu faraona Ramzesa, nosiljku koju krasi stilizovana divlja mačka s plavom njuškom i živim očima, komad svilene tkanine kojom se faraon obmotavao i koja posle toliko milenijuma jedva da ima neka oštećenja.

TURISTIČKE ATRAKCIJE HURGADE Osim dugih peščanih plaža, bezbroj aqua parkova i ronilačkih centara, izgrađen je i veliki Akvarijum u kojem je predstavljeno svo bogatsvo živog sveta tropskog mora. Tu je i novootvoreni muzej skulptura od peska, kao i namenski izgrađen centar u kojem preslatki i uigrani par delefina – mužjak Sergej i ženka Sisi izvode svoj šou. Sa lepotama pustinjskijh pejsaža i izazovima koje nudi možete se upoznati na brojnim safari programima koji neizostavno uključuju jahanje kamila i trke kvadrovima. Jedan od opuštajućih sadržaja koje nudi Hurgada jesu izleti do otoka Gifton poznatog po lepim plažama i živopisnim ronilačkim „terenima“.

Titanic Beach Resort SUNČEVA BILJKA PAPIRUS U Kairu, obilazimo i poznatu galeriju papirusa u kojoj prisustvujemo prezentaciji tehnologije njegove izrade. Ova biljka – močvarica ima lišće nalik na sunčeve zrake, a stabljika joj je oblika pravilnog trougla. Sa zidova galerije posmatraju nas, kako faraoni i carice, Mojsije koji preko Crvenog mora izvodi svoj narod, tako i Marija, Josif i mali Isus koji su u Egiptu našli utočište od Irodovog besa. I ovaj niz motiva otisnutih na „papiru sunčeve biljke“ živo svedoče o Egiptu kao „pupčanoj vrpci“ civilizacija.

Desert Safari

MORAM SE VRATITI Sedmodnevni boravak u Egiptu, po količini utisaka i susreta deluje mi kao neuporedivo duži. Meni lično, koja sam tu prvi put bila, otvorio se jedan čitav svet. Ne mogu da prestanem da razmišljam o ovoj zemlji koja je zagonetna i toliko različita od naše, a s kojom opet delimo nešto zajedničko: i oni i mi bili smo deo Rimskog, Vizantijskog i Osmanskog sveta. U novijoj istoriji zajedno smo se borili za opstanak u podeljenom svetu supersila. Jedan poznanik mi je rekao da je u Egiptu bio ravno četrdest i jedan put. Ranije, samo bih podigla obrvu, smatrajući da na ovom svetu ima toliko zemalja koje bi trebalo posetiti. Sada ga razumem. Milena Mihaljčić Foto: Nikolina Berga

A green marketplace in Hurghada SUVIŠNI BAR KODOVI Trgovati s Egipćanima pravo je zadovoljstvo. U svakoj radnji postoji kutak gde će vas ponuditi čajem i voditi koliko god treba duge razgovore kako biste se odlućili da na kraju nešto i pazarite. Vrednost „transakcije“ zapravo je nebitna. Suština je u ritualu koji započinje obostranim predstavljanjem. Tako stvari dobijaju svoju individualnost i postaju vam mnogo draže i prisnije.

BelGuest

Summer 2019

INTERVIEW

SING-SONG TO THE ACCOMPANIMENT OF THE GUSLE ON UNESCO LIST The List of the Cultural Heritage of Humanity has become richer after the inscription on it of the Serbian “family saint patron’s day” (as known as “Slava”) (in 2014), “the Serbian circle dance” (as known as “kolo”) (in 2017), and “singing to the accompaniment of the Gusle”, which was included in the Register at the end of 2018, as part of Serbia’s national and cultural identity. Recognizability at the international level is ensured by the inscription of playing the Gusle on the representative list and its preservation and conveying to future generations are encouraged. On that occasion, we talked to Danka Lajić Mihajlović, Ph.D., an ethnomusicologist. Cultural heritage creates the foundation of contemporary culture as well, doesn’t it? To what extent can scientists contribute to the protection and presentation of the Serbian cultural core? In the past three decades of my research studies and my cooperation with the Gusle players, I’ve made an exceptionally voluminous documentation on contemporary Gusle-playing practice and collected diverse archival materials. I’m interested in different phenomena that constitute the field of contemporary ethno-musicology; singing to the accompaniment of the Gusle, however, is the central theme of my scientific paper, and I’m proud to have contributed to the multidisciplinary comprehension of this important part of Serbian culture. As an ethno-musicologist who’s specially interested in folk music instruments, and whose theme of the doctoral thesis is singing to the accompaniment of the Gusle, I’d felt that I owed Gusle players, the lovers of the Serbian epic tradition and those respecting it my personal engagement in the inscription of singing to the accompaniment of the Gusle on the National List. That was done in 2012, and the exceptional interestedness on the part of the Gusle players’ community and the support of the Ministry of Culture lead to making yet another step – the preparation of the nomination dossier for the inscription on the UNESCO List. As you highlight in your monograph of the same name, Serbian traditional singing to the accompaniment of the Gusle is a specific communication process developing between the Gusle player and his audience. What does that communication look like in the 21st century? Today, just as well as before, Gusle players are the people living around us who are interested in the preservation of traditional values through epic as a genre which, firs of all, is an ethical code of its own kind, a part of the collective memory of the events of the mythical and historical past. At the same time, they demonstrate the characters that are recognizable in every society and in every time. Contemporary Gusle players perform known texts recorded in writing, which they musically shape, and many of them also show their creativeness in the poetical dimension, too. Throughout the 20th century, a new form of communication between the Gusle players and the audience was being promoted – via sound carriers, the radio, the television, the Internet… So, records with the melodies played by the Gusle players

18 Summer 2019

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were among the first commercial records recorded on our territory. Today, the Gusle are marginalized or inadequately presented in the media, which is one of the basic factors endangering this practice. Although not visible enough on the public cultural scene, the Gusle players’ community has a lot of members and is active? There are Gusle players’ associations in many places in Serbia, and the National Alliance counts over 30 such societies. They’re very active – they organize annual competitions and concerts, and establish cooperation with the Gusle players’ associations in neighboring countries and Diaspora. Of course, if compared with the time of Vuk Karadžić, who recorded that the Gusle had been played in every house, especially so in the mountain regions, they are a cultural heritage today, which must be protected. At the SASA Institute for Musicology, where I’m employed, we’ve implemented a few research projects so far, with the aim of improving protection, and organized workshops for learning and improving singing to the accompaniment of the Gusle for young people. Rozana Sazdić

Young gusle-players at the Educational Workshop organized by SED, Kraljevo Danka Lajić Mihajlović, Ph.D., is engaged in different fields of applied ethnomusicology. Apart from the monograph entitled Serbian Traditional Singing to the Accompaniment of the Gusle as a communication process, she has also published a book entitled The Wedding Ceremony Customs and Songs of Montenegrins in Bačka, and has published over 30 scientific studies in domestic and foreign thematic proceedings and scientific journals. She is a member of the Board of the Scenic Art and Music Department of Matica Srpska, as well as of several national and international scientific associations.

INTERVJU

PEVANJE UZ GUSLE NA UNESKO LISTI Na listu kulturnog nasleđa čovečanstva upisana je srpska „porodična slava“ (2014), „srpsko kolo“(2017), a krajem 2018. u Registar je, kao deo nacionalnog i kulturnog identiteta Srbije, uvršteno i „pevanje uz gusle“. Upisom guslanja na reprezentativnu listu obezbeđuje se prepoznatljivost na međunarodnom nivou i podstiče njegovo očuvanje i prenošenju, pa smo tim povodom razgovarali sa etnomuzikologom dr Dankom Lajić Mihajlović Kulturno nasleđe čini temelj i savremene kulture, zar ne? U kojoj meri naučnici mogu doprineti zaštiti i prezentaciji srpskog kulturnog jezgra? U protekle tri decenije koliko traju moja istraživanja i saradnja sa guslarima, napravila sam izuzetno obimnu dokumentaciju o savremenoj guslarskoj praksi i prikupila raznovrsnu arhivsku građu. Interesujem se za različite fenomene koji čine polje savremene etnomuzikologije, međutim, pevanje uz gusle je centralna tema mog naučnog rada i ponosna sam što sam doprinela multidisciplinarnoj spoznaji ovog važnog dela srpske kulture. Kao etnomuzikolog kome su narodni muzički instrumenti predmet posebnog interesovanja, a pevanje uz gusle tema doktorske disertacije, osećala sam da guslarima, ljubiteljima i poštovaocima srpske epske tradicije dugujem angažovanje oko upisa pevanja uz gusle na Nacionalnu listu. To je realizovano 2012. godine, a izuzetna zainteresovanost guslarske zajednice i podrška Ministarstva kulture vodili su ka još jednom koraku – pripremi nominacijskog dosijea za upis na listu Uneskoa. Srpsko tradicionalno pevanje uz gusle, kako ističete u istoimenoj monografiji, predstavlja specifičan komunikacioni proces koji se odvija između guslara i njegove publike. Kako to komuniciranje izgleda u 21. veku? Guslari su danas, kao i ranije, ljudi iz našeg okruženja zainteresovani za očuvanje tradicionalnih vrednosti kroz epiku kao žanr koji je, pre svega, svojevrsni etički kodeks, deo kolektivnog pamćenja događaja iz mitske i istorijske prošlosti. Istovremeno, oni prikazuju karaktere koji su prepoznatljivi u svakom društvu i vremenu. Savremeni guslari izvode poznate, zapisane tekstove, koje muzički oblikuju, a mnogi od njih poseduju kreativnost i u poetskoj dimenziji. Kroz čitav 20. vek promovisan je novi vid komuniciranja guslara i auditorijuma – posredstvom nosača zvuka, radija, televizije, interneta… Tako su među prvim komercijalnim pločama snimanim na našim prostorima bile ploče sa guslarskim izvođenjima. Danas su gusle medijski marginalizovane ili neadekvatno prikazane, što je jedan od osnovnih faktora ugrožavanja ove prakse. Iako nisu dovoljno vidljivi na javnoj kulturnoj sceni, guslarska zajednica je brojna i aktivna Guslarska udruženja postoje u mnogim mestima u Srbiji, a nacionalni Savez ima preko trideset društava. Veoma su aktivni - organizuju godišnje takmičenje i koncerte i ostvaruju saradnju sa guslarskim udruženjima u susednim zemljama i dijaspori. Naravno, u odnosu na vreme Vuka Karadžića, koji je zabeležio da su gusle bile u svakoj kući, posebno u planinskim predelima, danas govorimo o kulturnom nasleđu koje je neophodno zaštititi. Muzikološki institut SANU, u kome sam zaposlena, realizovao je nekoliko istraživačkih projekata u cilju unapređenja zaštite i podržao radionice za učenje i usavršavanja pevanja uz gusle za mlade ljude. Rozana Sazdić

Dr Danka Lajić Mihajlović je angažovana u različitim oblastima primenjene etnomuzikologije. Pored monografije Srpsko tradicionalno pevanje uz gusle kao komunikacioni proces, objavila je knjigu Svadbeni običaji i pesme Crnogoraca u Bačkoj i publikovala preko trideset naučnih studija u domaćim i inostranim tematskim zbornicima i naučnim časopisima. Član je Odbora Odeljenja za scenske umetnosti i muziku i Krajiškog odbora Matice srpske, kao i više nacionalnih i internacionalnih naučnih udruženja.

BelGuest

Summer 2019

C H R O N I C L E

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B E L G R A D E

EVERY NIGHT IS A WEEKEND “After eleven o’clock, the City unlocks its night gates, the doors of its clubs and floating restaurants, seductively inviting hedonists of all years of age and affinities to surrender to entertainment. It’s difficult to draw a line between whether Belgrade is really the New York or Berlin of the Balkans, as described. Yet, its charm certainly reflects in that everyone can find a corner where they’ll wish to spend a night.”

These words are quoted from the introduction of the book entitled “Chronicle of Good Time in Belgrade” by the authoresses Maja Vukadinović and Aleksandra Mikata. The subtitle: “Belgrade’s Discos and Clubs 1967-2017” explains the essence of the content “packed” inside the binding of this precious edition, in which the development of Belgrade as a city of good entertainment is for the first time described and culturally analyzed. Maja wrote the part covering the period from the 1960s to the 1980s, and Aleksandra dealt with the 1990s and the 2000s, which is especially interesting to readers given that these are two different styles and author’s approaches. IN THE BEGINNING THERE WAS SUGAR “Aleksandra and I have always been interested in the phenomena of popular culture, through which you can perceive a broader picture of society, especially the spirit of a time. In 1998, I set myself a challenging task – to write a feuilleton about the city discos. I spoke with Laza Šećer (Sugar) and learnt about his disco, the first one in Belgrade, and the late architect Ilija Ika Gligorijević, deserving for the modelling of the ‘Cepelin’ interior told me about

20 Summer 2019

BelGuest

the popular places of the 1970s and 1980s. I interviewed various public figures too, spending days and days going through journalist documentations. That resulted in the feuilleton story ‘Belgrade by Night – Symbols of One Time’, which was published in Politika daily,” says Maja Vukadinović. WEST WINDS The nightlife of our capital is the “No. 1 Tourism Brand” today. Lonely Planet ranked it as the first among the ten cities of the world; National Geographic also classified it into the top 10 cities, and a journalist of the British Telegraph noted that the Belgrade club scene had assumed a perfect artistic form. There are already a myriad of such articles. Belgrade’s path towards achieving the title of a city in which one can have the greatest time of all was trodden by some young people, who were enchanted by pop-culture while trying to run away from the dreariness of socialism in the 1960s: “People were passionately listening to Radio Luxembourg and the music shows on Radio Belgrade, and reading the Jukebox magazine,” these words referring to the first steps made into the world beyond the boundaries of the Marxist ideology.

ECHO OF THE CITY’S LEGENDS The history of the “Cepelin”, which was the first Yugoslav disco with special-purpose equipment, is described in full detail. Because of its luxury interior and the light effects unseen before, it was called “nightlifers’ worldwide attraction”. Even today, young generations throughout the Ex-Yu territories have learnt from their parents’ stories about the legendary Cep, as it used to be called in the city jargon. “It would be interesting to enter a time machine and once again feel an immeasurable pleasure since you had to do the impossible to get a ‘Cepelin’ membership card, go out to the ‘Aquarius’… or visit the ‘Monokl’ after dinner at Skadarlija because new records just came from London…” says Maja, telling us about the atmosphere of the 1970s. NEW-WAVE UNDERGROUND Belgrade’s first appearance on the European map of the places recommended for partying relates to the legendary “Akademija”. This club within the Faculty of Fine Arts found its place in the “Guide Through Europe” due to “its eccentric atmosphere”. Its underground space, an urban cave of its own kind, “was the place where rockers, artists, the offspring of communist ploticians and the social elite, as well as ordinary young man and young girls were meeting. In brief, rebels with or without a cause.” Akademija was the epicenter of the then new music genre, known as New Wave. Although it doesn’t exist any longer, it has been remembered as a place where you could freely be what you really are, similar to or totally different from others. THE ERA OF DANGEROUS GUYS In her story, Aleksandra Mikata described the nightlife of the 1990s: “Little money and a lot of entertainment – that’s how this decade can be described in brief. Or better – not much good music and a lot of brutal murders. While hip-hop was getting into full swing in the world, Belgrade contributed to the world music heritage with the sounds of turbo-folk, which was the most pleasing when danced to with a gun stuck into a belt.” Although this sounds bitter, the truth is that in the war years Belgrade did not resemble itself – it rather looked like the Chicago of the prohibition time. The known clubs of that time, such as “Nana” and “Majestik”, were the places where “alpha males” squared accounts with each other and ostentatiously displayed their wealth acquired through robbery. ENTERTAINMENT COUNCILLORS Once the wars ended and the multi-party system took hold, the dangerous guys of the 1990s ended for the most part either in obituaries or in jails. Belgrade was beginning to return to its cosmopolitan and always a little bit fashion-conscious spirit. Today, when all renowned world media jointly recommend it as a place where one should spend at least one “crazy night”, and when there are dozens of firms whose core activity is “entertainment consultancy”, all those people and all those places that were modeling this characteristic appearance of Belgrade “stone by stone” are worthy of recalling. Milena Mihaljčić

Belgrade in the 1960s, from Darko Ćirić's collection Photo: Danilo Peternek

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SVAKA NOĆ JE VIKEND „Negde posle jedanaest sati grad otključava noćne kapije, vrata klubova i splavova, zavodljivo pozivajući hedoniste svih uzrasta i afiniteta da se prepuste zabavi. Teško je razlučiti da li je Beograd zaista balkanski Njujork ili Berlin, kako ga opisuju. Ipak, izvesno je da šarm grada čini to što svako može da pronađe kutak u kome će poželeti da provede veče.”

Broadway's "Hair" in Belgrade

Ovo je citat iz uvoda knjige „Hronika dobrog provoda u Beogradu” autorki Maje Vukadinović i Aleksandre Mikate. Podnaslov: „Beogradske diskoteke i klubovi 1967–2017” objašnjavja suštinu sadržaja „spakovanog” unutar korica ovog dragocenog izdanja, u kojem je, po prvi put, opisan i kulturološki analiziran razvoj Beograda kao grada dobre zabave. Maja je napisla deo od šezdesetih do osamdesetih, a Aleksandra se bavila devedesetim i dvehiljadititim što je posebno zanimljivo čitaocima , budući da je reč o dva različita stila i autorska pristupa. U POČETKU BEŠE ŠEĆER „Aleksandru i mene su oduvek zanimali fenomeni popularne kulture preko kojih može da se sagleda šira slika društva, a posebno duha vremena. Godine 1998. postavila sam sebi izazovan zadatak – da napišem feljton o gradskim diskotekama. Razgovarala sam s Lazom Šećerom i saznala priču o njegovo diskoteci, prvoj u Beogradu, a od pokojnog arhitekte Ilije Ike Gligorijevića, zaslužnog za oblikovanje enterijera „Cepelina”, saznala detalje o popularnim mestima sedamdesetih i osamdesetih. Intervjuisala sam i razne javne ličnosti i dane provodila po novinskim dokumentacijama. Tako je nastao feljton „Beograd noću – simboli jednog vremena” koji je objavljen u Politici,” priča nam Maja Vukadinović. VETROVI SA ZAPADA Noćni život naše prestonice danas je „turistički brend no. 1”. Lonely Planet ga je stavio na prvo mesto među deset gradova sveta, National Geographic ga je, takođe, uvrstio među top 10 gradova, novinaraka britanskog Telegraph-a zapisala je da je beogradska klupska scena poprimila savršenu umetničku formu. Ovakvih napisa u stranoj štampi ima već bezbroj. Međutim, put Beograda ka osvajanju titule grada vrhunskog provoda utrli su neki mladi ljudi, koji su, šezdesetih godina prošlog veka, bežeći od sivila socijalizma, bili omađijani pop-kulturom: „Pasionirano se slušao Radio Luksemburg, muzičke emisije Radio Beograda, čitao časopis Džuboks,” napisano je o tim prvim iskoracima u svet izvan granica marksističke ideologije.

22 Summer 2019

BelGuest

Belgrade in the 1960s, from Darko Ćirić's collection

EHO GRADSKIH LEGENDI Do detalja je opisana istorija „Cepelina”, koji je bio prva namenski opremljena diskoteka u Jugoslaviji. Raskošnog enterijera i do tada neviđenih svetlosnih efekata, odmah po otvaranju nazvan je „belosvetskom atrakcijom noćobdija”. O legendarnom Cepu, kako se u gradskom žargonu zvao, i danas iz priča svojih roditelja znaju mlade generacije diljem Ex Yu prostora. „Bilo bi zanimljivo ući u vremeplov i ponovo osetiti neizmerno zadovoljstvo jer ste na mišiće dobili člansku kartu ‘Cepelina’, izaći u ‘Akvarijus’… ili posle večere u Skadarliji svratiti u ‘Monokl’ zato što su stigle nove ploče iz Londona…” priča nam o atmosferi sedamdesetih Maja Vukadinović. NOVOTALASNI UNDERGROUND Prvo pojavljivanje Beograda na evropskoj mapi preporučenih mesta za izlazak vezano je za legandarnu ‘Akademiju’. Ovaj klub pri Fakultetu likovnih umetnosti se našao u „Vodiču kroz Evropu” zbog „svoje ekscentrične atmosfere”. U podumskom prostoru, svojevrsnoj urbanoj pećini „suretali su se rokeri, umetnici, potomci funkcionera i društvene elite, kao i obični mladići i devjoka. Ukratko, buntovnici s razlogom ili bez njega”. Akademija je bila epicentar tada novog muzičkog pravca, poznatog pod imenom Novi talas. Iako više ne postoji, ostala je u sećanju kao mesto gde si slobodno mogao biti svoj, sličan ili sasvim drugačiji od ostalih. DOBA OPASNIH MOMAKA Priču o noćnom životu devedesetih opisala je Aleksandra Mikata: „Malo novca i mnogo provoda – tako se ukratko može opisati ova decenija. Ili još bolje – malo dobre muzike i mnogo brutalnih ubistava. Dok se u svetu zahuktavao hip-hop, Beograd je svetskoj muzičkoj baštini doprineo zvucima turbo-folka, koji je najviše prijao kad se igra s pištoljem.” Premda ovo zvuči oporo, istina je da Beograd u ratnim godinama nije ličio na sebe, više je nalikovao Čikagu iz doba prohibicije. Poznati klubovi tog vremena, poput „Nane” i „Mažestika” bili su mesta gde su se „alfa mužjaci” međusobno razračunavali i razmetali svojim, pljačkom stečenim imetkom. SAVETNICI ZA PROVOD S okončanjem ratova i dolaskom višepartizma, žestoki momci devedesetih završili su mahom ili u čituljama ili u zatvorima. Beograd je počeo da se vraća svom kosmopolitskom i uvek pomalo pomodarskom duhu. Danas, kada ga renomirani svetski mediji uglas preporučuju kao mesto gde treba provesti barem jednu „ludu noć” i kada postoji na desetine firmi kojima je osnovna delatnost „konsalating za provod”, valje se setiti svih onih ljudi i mesta koji su „kamen po kamen” oblikovali ovo osobeno lice Beograda. Milena Mihaljčić

From the monograph "The Almanac of New Wave in the SFRY", photo: Miki Stojković

S O U V E N I R S H O P O F N AT I O N A L TO U R I S M O R G A N I Z AT I O N O F S E R B I A

ONLY FOR CHILDREN AND THE YOUNG Within the framework of its souvenir program, the National Tourism Organization of Serbia endeavors to present the best our country has in its offer of “memories to take away”. This time, in our regular column dedicated to carefully chosen souvenirs, edited by Nataša Drulović, we are presenting a choice of nice little things intended for children and absolutely young people.

Together with his team, Sašenjka Meljnikov, a citizen of Novi Sad, the author of the SASH collection, designed a line of children’s wear and accessories for babies, little girls, little boys and teenagers, with the printed copyrighted illustrations presenting the works of the most famous domestic and foreign kids’authors. ENLIGHTENING STORIES ON COTTON SASH has decided to breathe life into the characters from fairytales and enlightening stories which preserve the right, verified value system and are retold from one generation to another. The clothes they produce is made of pure cotton, thus protecting children’s gentle skin. The illustrations on the clothes are adapted to high ecological norms – they are exclusively printed with water-based colors. Good fairies, princesses and princes, a little horse-rider, ducklings at school and many other characters from unforgettable songs/poems and stories have moved onto soft cotton of which charming clothes and accessories are made. The production is completely carried out on “home ground”: from cutting out and sewing, via printing and packing, to, of course, the design itself. The author of the collection firmly sticks to the catchphrase: Produced with pride in Serbia. Info: https://sashstory.com/

24 Summer 2019

BelGuest

NATAŠA’S WOVEN BOOKS Nataša Jonev, a bachelor with honors in education, engages herself in creating quiet books and small animal figures with a magnet, and in making souvenirs of linen and newsprint. Her main creation is “The Quiet Book”, an educative toy which is not usually seen in our environments. What exactly is“The Quiet Book”? It is a “visual reading matter” from which a child creates his/her own story each time. Every page of the book is focused on the development of different skills in a child and contains special assignments, so in that way a child masters various techniques, such as lacing up, buttoning up and buckling, gluing a Velcro strap, pulling ribbons through, etc. In this way, cognitive, intellectual and fine motor skills in young children are stimulated, their imagination, intelligence and functional thinking are developed. RANGE OF QUIET TOPICS The books are intended for children of six months to seven years, and the tasks are from diverse fields – colors, shapes, animal life, the clock and time, the seasons of the year, traffic, dressing, fruits and vegetables, the kitchen, hygiene maintenance, memory games, and so much more. The “quiet books” are especially precious since they build an image of the world through the sense of touch and stimulate interactive playing. They are an ideal toy for both children with special needs and all those who consider that knowledge, imagination and motor skills are fastest developed through playing with educative toys. They are made of cotton materials and felt, with an addition of various small buttons, small pearls, small ribbons, a Velcro strap and other small things. They are also made on demand, so parents are given a possibility to participate themselves in their production and work out the content of the book and the tasks for their little children. The books can be personalized, which means that the name of a child can be written on the cover. They are an ideal educative and didactic gift for every child. Info: https://www.facebook.com/pg/ABC-tiha-knjiga-quiet-book/

ALBUMS OF THE “WOMEN’S STORIES” SERIES The “Women’s Stories” Art Gallery and Workshop has been existent for ten years already. Its founders and preliminary creators are female Belgradians Dragana and Nevena, friends since their schooltime, qualified packaging designers. On their Facebook page, they wrote: “We’re united in our love for art and our wish to make this world beautiful with our creative work.”There are already quite many creations in the archive of the works of the “Women’s Stories”. Currently, the main accent is placed on making personalized photo-albums for weddings, rites of baptism, births, birthdays… The largest number of the ordered albums are exactly those for childbirth, as well as for the rites of baptism, since the memories in them are especially “sweet”. The accent in production is placed on the processing of a material in combination with machine and hand embroidery. There are finished models, but albums can also be made according to the ordering party’s idea. Apart from albums, the Workshop also makes embroidered notebooks and diaries, business agendas, glass boxes, bookmarkers, keyrings, and so many other things… https://www.facebook.com/UmetnickaRadionicaZenskePrice/ BelGuest Photo by: National Tourism Organization of Serbia

S U VE N I RN I C A T URI ST IČKE OR GA NIZ ACIJE SR BIJE

SAMO ZA DECU I MLADE U okviru svog suvenirskog programa, Turistička organizacija Srbije nastoji da prezentuje ono najbolje što naša zemlja ima u ponudi „uspomena za poneti”. Ovoga puta, u našoj stalnoj rubirici posvećenoj biranim suvenirima koju uređuje Nataša Drulović, predstavljamo izbor lepih sitnica namenjenenih deci i sasvim mladim ljudima.

Novosađanin Sašenjka Meljnikov, autor kolekcije SASH, osmislio je sa svojim timom liniju dečje odeće i aksesoara za bebe, devojčice, dečake i tinejdžere, sa štampanim autorskim ilustracijama na kojima su predstavljena dela najpoznatijih domaćih i stranih autora za decu. POUČNE PRIČE NA PAMUKU SASH je odlučii da „oživi“ likove iz bajki i poučnih priča koje čuvaju pravi, provereni sistem vrednosti i prepričavaju se generacijama. Odeća koju proizvode izrađjuje se od čistog pamuka i tako štiti nežnu dečju kožu. Ilustracije na odeći su prilagođene visokim ekološkim normama – štampaju se isključivo bojama na vodenoj bazi. Dobre vile, princeze i prinčevi, mali konjanik, pačići u školi i mnogi drugi likovi iz nezaboravnih pesama i priča preselili su se na mekani pamuk od kojeg je napravljena šarmantna garderoba i aksesoari. Proizvodnja se u potpunosti odvija na„domaćem terenu”: od krojenja i šivenja, štampe, pakovanja i, naravno, dizajna. Autor kolekcije se čvrsto drži krilatice: Proizvedeno sa ponosom u Srbiji. Info: https://sashstory.com/

26 Summer 2019

BelGuest

NATAŠINE TKANENE KNJIGE Nataša Jonev, po struci diplomirani vaspitač, bavi se izradom tihih knjiga, figurica životinja sa magnetom, izradom suvenira od platna i novinskog papira. Njena glavna kreacija je „Tiha knjiga“, za naše prostore nesvakidašnja edukativna igračka. Šta je to zapravo „Tiha knjiga“? To je „vizuellno štivo“ od kojeg dete svaki put stvara svoju priču. Svaka stranica je fokusirana na razvoj različitih dečjih veština i sadrži posebne zadatke, pa dete tako savladava razne tehnike, poput pertlanja, kopčanja dugmadi i kopčica, lepljenja čičak trake, provlačenja traka... Na ovaj način se podstiču kognitivne, intelektualne i fine motoričke sposobnosti mališana , razvija im se mašta, inteligencija, funkcionalno razmišljanje. SPEKTAR TIHIH TEMA Knjige su namenjene deci od šest meseci do sedam godina, a zadaci su iz raznih oblasti – boje, oblici, svet životinja, časovnik i vreme, godišnja doba, saobraćaj, oblačenje, voće, povrće, kuhinja, održavanje higijene, igre memorije i još mnogo toga. „Tihe knjige“ su posebno dragocene jer izgrađuju sliku o svetu putem čula dodira i podstiču interaktivnu igru. Idealna su igračaka i za decu sa posebnim potrebama i sve one koji smatraju da se znanje, mašta i motorika najbrže razvijaju kroz igru sa edukativnim igračakama. Izrađuju se od pamučnih materijala i filca, sa dodatkom raznih dugmića, perlica, tračica, čičak trake i drugih sitnica. Prave se i po porudžbini, pa se tako roditeljima pruža mogućnost da sami učestvuju u izradi i osmisle sadržaj knjige i zadatke za svoje mališane. Knjige mogu biti personalizovane, što znači da se na koricama ispiše ime deteta. One su idealan edukativni i didaktički poklon za svako dete. Info: https://www.facebook.com/pg/ABC-tiha-knjiga-quiet-book/

ALBUMI IZ SERIJE„ŽENSKIH PRIČA“ Umetnička galerija i radionica ,,Ženske priče’’ postoji več deset godina. Njene osnivačice i idejni tvorci su Beograđanke Dragana i Nevena, drugarice iz školske klupe, a po struci dizajnerke ambalaže. Na svojoj facebook stranici su zapisale: „Sjedinjene smo u ljubavi prema umetnosti i želji da svojim kreativnim radom ulepšamo ovaj svet.“ U arhivi radova „Ženskih priča“ ima već podosta kreacija. Trenutno je glavni akcenta stavljen na izradu personalizovanih foto albuma za venčanja, krštenja, rođenja, rođendane... Najviše poručenih albuma je upravo za rođenje dece, kao i krštenja, jer se uspomene u njima posebno„slatke“. Akcenat u proizvodnji stavljen je na obradu tkanine u kombinaciji sa mašinskim i ručnim vezom. Ima gotovih modela ali se albumi mogu izraditi i po zamisli poručioca. Pored albuma, radionica pravi i izvezene sveske i dnevnke, poslovne agende, kutije za naočare, bukmarkere, priveske za ključeve i još mnogo toga… Info: https://www.facebook.com/UmetnickaRadionicaZenskePrice/ BelGuest Foto: Turistička organizacija Srbije

BelGuest

Summer 2019

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EXHIBITIONS AND CONCERTS / IZLOŽBE I KONCERTI THE END OF THE GREAT WAR 1917-1918 KRAJ VELIKOG RATA 1917-1918 13th November 2018 – 13th November 2019 Historical Museum of Serbia / Istorijski muzej Srbije Info: www.imus.org.rs IN THE MIRROR U OGLEDALU 9th May – 7th July Ethnographic Museum / Etnografski muzej Info: www.etnografskimuzej.rs (RE)EVOLUTION: DRAGAN ILIĆ RETROSPECTIVE EXHIBITION RETROSPEKTIVNA IZLOŽBA DRAGANA ILIĆA (RE)EVOLUCIJA 15th May – 8th July Museum of Contemporary Art / Muzej savremene umetnosti Info: www.msub.org.rs SAVA ŠUMANOVIĆ LANDSCAPE PAINTINGS ŠIDSKI PEJSAŽI SAVE ŠUMANOVIĆA UMETNOSTI 11th June – 27th July Serbian army culture centre/ Velika galerija Doma vojske Info: www.odbrana.mod.gov.rs UNDER SCRUTINY: ANCIENT EGYPTIAN COLLECTIONS IN SERBIA POD LUPOM: STAROEGIPATSKE ZBIRKE U MUZEJIMA U SRBIJI 26th June – 17th November Museum of African Art / Muzej afričke umetnosti Info: www.mau.rs MARINA ABRAMOVIĆ, THE CLEANER MARINA ABRAMOVIĆ, ČISTAČ 21st September 2019 – 20th January 2020 Museum of Contemporary Art / Muzej savremene umetnosti Info: www.msub.org.rs THIEVERY CORPORATION 26th June Tašmajdan Stadium / Stadion Tašmajdan Info: www.thieverycorporation.com GARBAGE 28th June Sports and Recreational Center 11 April Sporski centar "11. April" Info: www.halasportova.rs EROS RAMAZZOTTI 24th September Štark Arena Info: www.starkarena.co.rs

28 Summer 2019

BelGuest

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F E S T I VA L S A N D M A N I F E S TAT I O N S / F E S T I VA L I I M A N I F E S TAC I J E 28TH BELGRADE SUMMER FESTIVAL – BELEF 28. BEOGRADSKI LETNJI FESTIVAL – BELEF 21st June – 7th July Info: www.belef.rs 8TH BELGRADE FESTIVAL OF EUROPEAN LITERATURE 8. BEOGRADSKI FESTIVAL EVROPSKE KNJIŽEVNOSTI 25th-28th June Belgrade Youth Center / Dom omladine Beograda Info: www.institutfrancais.rs 19TH INTERNATIONAL ORGAN FESTIVAL 19. MEĐUNARODNI FESTIVAL DANI ORGULJA 26th June – 3rd July Cathedral of the Blessed Virgin Mary Crkva Uznesenja Blažene Device Marije Info: www.kcb.org.rs 44TH FESTIVAL OF MONODRAMA AND MIME 44. FESTIVAL MONODRAME I PANTOMIME 27th-30th June Info: www.festmono-pan.org.rs AFRO FESTIVAL 29th-30th June Museum of African Art / Muzej afričke umetnosti Info: www.mau.rs BELGRADE BEER FEST BEOGRADSKI BEER FEST 14th-18th Avgust Info: www.belgradebeerfest.com 53RD BELGRADE INTERNATIONAL THEATRE FESTIVAL – BITEF 53. BEOGRADSKI INTERNACIONALNI TEATARSKI FESTIVAL – BITEF September Info: www.bitef.rs 17TH INTERNATIONAL COMICS FESTIVAL 17. MEĐUNARODNI SALON STRIPA 26th-29th September Student Cultural Center / Studentski kulturni centar Info: www.salonstripaskc.rs

BelGuest

Summer 2019

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WALKING DOWN OLD TOWN AND BELGRADE FORTRESS

KROZ BEOGRADSKU VAROŠ I BEOGRADSKU TVRĐAVU

Funny and interesting sightseeing: The Republic Square, Bohemian Quarter Skadarlija, the oldest part of Belgrade with Ottoman heritage, „Sillicon valley“, Zoo, Kalemegdan park, Belgrade fortress, The „Victor“ - the most famous symbol of Belgrade, the confluence of the Sava and the Danube rivers. Saborna church, cafe „?“, Knez Mihailova street. Info: www.belgradewalkingtours.com

Ovo je istovremeno i zabavno i zanimljivo razgledanje: Trg Republike, boemska četvrt Skadarlija, stari delovi Beograda i njegovo osmansko nasleđe, „Silkonska dolina”, Zoo vrt, park Kalemegdan, Beogradska tvrđava, statua „Pobednik” - najpoznatiji simbol Beograda, ušće Save u Dunav, Saborna crkva, kultna kafana Znak pitanja, Knez Mihailova ulica. Info: www.belgradewalkingtours.com

A WALK IN OLD ZEMUN

ŠETNJA STARIM ZEMUNOM

Once on the very border of the two empires, Zemun still gives impression of the atmosphere of the Austrian-Hungarian Empire. Gardoš Tower, offering a panoramic view of the Danube, is the symbol of this extraordinary city. Valuable edifices and ambiences of Old Zemun are a must-visit for tourists. The tour ends with a stroll on the beautifully landscaped Zemun quay, on the banks of the Danube River. Info: www.belgradewalkingtours.com

Nekada na samoj granici dva carstva, Zemun i danas odiše atmosferom Austrougraske carevine. Simbol ovog posebnog grada je kula Gardoš s predivnim panoramskim pogledom na Dunav. Obilazak vrednih zdanja i ambijenata starog Zemuna spada... Tura se završava šetnjom na predivno uređenom Zemunskom keju, na obali Dunava. Info: www.belgradewalkingtours.com

BELGRADE UNDERGROUNG TOUR

TURA PODZEMNIM BEOGRADOM

Beneath the city lies another city. Underground Belgrade a different set of invisible tunnels, caves, dungeons, bunkers... A great tour for adventurers in search of secrets, legends and an unexpected history of the city. The route includes the Roman hall, the military bunker from the period of the Cold War, the Great gunpowder storage, dungeons at Kosančićev Venac Square and wine dungeons.

Ispod grada krije se još jedan grad. Podzemni Beograd predstavlja splet različitih nevidljivih tunela, pećina, laguma, bunkera... Odlična tura za avanturiste u potrazi za tajnama, legendama i jednom neočekivanom istorijom grada. Maršruta obuhvata Rimsku dvoranu, vojni bunker iz doba hladnog rata, Veliki barutni magacin, lagume Kosančićevog venca i vinske lagume.

Info: www.belgradewalkingtours.com

30 Summer 2019

BelGuest

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B E O G R A D A

BS TOURS OPEN TOP

One of the favourite ways to get to know the city is sightseeing by tourist buses. Bus tours depart daily from the Nikola Pašić Square. The most beautiful metropolitan areas are visited – King Aleksandar Boulevard, Slavija Square, Terazije, Republic Square, Students Square, Savamala, Branko's bridge, Ada Bridge... The tour includes an audio-guide. Info: www.tob.rs www.bstours.rs/razgledanje

Jedan od omiljenih načina za upoznavanje gradova jeste panoramsko razgledanje iz turističkih autobusa. Autobuske ture svakodnevno polaze sa Trga Nikole Pašića. Obilaze se najmarkatnijie gradske zone - Bulevar kralja Aleksandra, Trg Slavija, Terazije, Trg Republike, Studentski trg, Savamala, Brankov most, Most na Adi... Obilazak upotpunjuje priča sa audio-vodiča. Info: www.tob.rs www.bstours.rs/razgledanje

COFFEE BREAK AT DUCHESS LJUBICA

NA KAFI KOD KNEGINJE LJUBICE

The programme “Coffee with Princess Ljubica” shows Belgrade during the time of the Obrenović royal dynasty. The curator of the City Museum dressed in a costume from that era greets visitors as a hostess of her palace. The story with which she animates the audience is popular and adjusted to tourist museum tours. And after a history class at Divanhana, the central place in the Palace, the guests are served the best coffee and the best Turkish delight. Info: www.mgb.org.rs www.tob.rs

Program „Na kafi kod kneginje Ljubice” predstavlja Beogradu za vreme vladavine dinastije Obrenović. Kustoskinja Muzeja grada obučena u kostim iz toga doba dočekuje posetioce kao domaćica svoje palate. Priča kojom animira publiku je popularna i prilagođena turističkim turama obilaska muzeja. A posle časa istorije u Divanhani, centralnom mestu u Konaku gostima se služi kafa i najbolji ratluk. Info: www.mgb.org.rs www.tob.rs

ROYAL PALACES

KRALJEVSKI DVOROVI

The palace complex of the Karađorđević Dynasty in Dedinje includes the Royal Palace and the White Palace. In addition to these two magnificent mansions and the park, the visitors, accompanied by a specialized tour guide, will also visit the chapel dedicated to St Andrew the Apostle, who is the patron saint of the Royal Family. Departure: every Saturday and Sunday from 9 April through 31 October in two regular times. Info: www. tob.co.rs, www.kraljevina.org

Dvorski kompleks dinastije Karađorđević na Dedinju sastoji se od Kraljevskog i Belog dvora. Pored dva velelepna zdanja i parka, posetioci, uz pratnju profesionalnih turistickih vodica, obilaze i dvorsku kapelu posvećenu Sv. Andreju Prvozvanom, zaštitniku kraljevske porodice. Polasci svake subote i nedelje od 1. aprila do 31.oktobra. Info: www. tob.co.rs, www.kraljevina.org

BelGuest

Summer 2019

bs tours sightseeing

DAILY SIGHTSEEING FROM THE RIVERS WITH A TOURIST GUIDE Belgrade – Your Host Tour • The ticket price for a ship ride is 800 rsd for adults • The ticket price for children up to 12 years of age is 500 rsd • The tours start at 4 and 6 pm every day • Departure at: JKP Zelenilo Belgrade quayside, near the Hotel Yugoslavia • The tour lasts 90 min. • The tour is conducted by licensed tourist guides in Serbian and English • There are two ships: Stevanske livade and Trajan, with 50 seats • On the ship there is a bar • The tour requires minimum 15 persons • Blended tour: open top bus & boat, every day at 3 pm and 5 pm The panoramic sightseeing of the city down the river includes sailing down the Danube and the Sava rivers along the whole of the 20 km of the Belgrade coast. During the cruise, you’ll see the area surrounding the Hotel Yugoslavia with the river restaurants famous for nightlife. The waterway further goes to Gardoš – the most beautiful part of Zemun, from where we continue downstream around the War Island towards Nebojša Tower and Pančevo Bridge. From the Danube sail into the Sava and beneath Belgrade Fortress we continue towards Ada Bridge – the city’s new symbol and pride. Finally, we return to the departure point.

A SPECIAL OFFER FOR ORGANIZED GROUPS – AN OUTING TO VINČA The outing includes: • a ship ride with welcome cocktails, accompanied by a tourist guide, lasting about 2.5h; • a visit to the famous Neolithic archaeological site of Vinča; • after visiting the Site, a tourist bus will come and drive the guests back to Belgrade; • the maximum capacity 50 persons. In Vinča, it is possible to organize lunch at an authentic river restaurant of domestic cuisine.

Information, booking and ticket sale TIC Knez Mihajlova 56 , 011/2635622 BS TOURS* Savski Trg 1/a, 011/7614693 • 011/6688448 DONAUSHIPS – Savski Trg 1/a* 011/7614693 • 011/6688448 • 063(069) 1995959 * Bs Tours and Donauships conduct this program supported by the TO of Belgrade

bs turs razgledanja

SVAKODNEVNA RAZGLEDANJA SA REKA U PRATNJI TURISTIČKOG VODIČA Tura BEOGRAD VAŠ DOMAĆIN • Cena karte za vožnju brodom iznosi 800 rsd za odrasle • Cena karte za decu do 12 godina iznosi 500 rsd • Polasci su svakoga dana u 16:00 i 18:00 h • Mesto polaska: pristan JKP Zelenilo Beograd, koji se nalazi kod hotela Jugoslavija • Program traje 90 minuta • Razgledanje vode licencirani turistički vodiči na srpskom i engleskom jeziku • Raspolažemo sa dva broda: Stevanske livade i Trajan koji su kapaciteta 50 mesta • Na brodu postoji šank • Minimalan broj gostiju za realizaciju programa je 15 osoba • Kombinovana tura otvoreni autobus- brod svakodnevno u 15 h i 17 h. Panoramsko razgledanje grada rekom, obuhvata plovidbu Dunavom i Savom duž svih dvadestet kilomerata beogradskog priobalja. Tokom krstarenja videćete okruženje hotela Jugoslavija sa splavovima čuvenim po noćnom životu. Plovni put dalje vodi ka Gardošu – najlepšem delu Zemuna, odakle nastavljamo nizvodno oko Ratnog ostrva ka kuli Nebojši i Pančevačkom mostu. Iz Dunava uplovljavamo u Savu, polovimo podno Beogradske tvrđave ka mostu na Adi - novom simbolu i ponosu grada. Odavde se vraćamo na početnu tačku.

POSEBNA PONUDA ZA ORGANIZOVANE GRUPE – IZLET VINČA Izlet uključuje: • voznju brodom uz koktel dobrodošlice, u pratnji turističkog vodiča u trajanju od oko 2;5 sata; • posetu čuvenom neolitskom arheološkom nalazištu Vinča; • nakon obilaska lokaliteta, po goste dolazi turistički autobus i vraća ih za Beograd; • kapacitet za najviše 50 osoba. U Vinči je moguće organizovati ručak na autentičnom splavu sa domaćom kuhinjom. Informacije, rezervacije i prodaja karata TIC Knez Mihajlova 56 , 011/2635622 BS TOURS* Savski Trg 1/a, 011/7614693, 011/6688448; DONAUSHIPS –Savski Trg 1/a* 011/7614693, 011/6688448, 063(069) 1995959; * Bs tours i Donauships ovaj program sprovode uz podršku TO Beograda

HOTEL

Moderan dizajn hotela Zeder, profesionalne usluge i ljubazno osoblje učiniće vaš boravak prijatnim. Očekujemo vas

The modern design of hotel Zeder, the professional service and friendly staff will make your stay pleasant. We are expecting you

SLODES Hotel • Borska 92f • 11090 Belgrade, Serbia E-mail: rezervacije@hotelslodes.rs Tel: +381 11 30-555-19 / +381 11 305-65-25 /+381 11 30-565-24

www.hotelslodes.rs

Address: Vojni Put II 164e , 11080 Belgrade Phone: +381 11 31 49 808, 49 707, 41 801 Fax: +381 11 31 49 029 e-mail: info@hotelzeder.com

GASTRONOMIC PARADISE AT THE HEART OF GARDOŠ If you take a walk from the Tower of Gardoš to the Danube, or a reverse one from the Danube to the Tower of Gardoš, you will come to the Princip restaurant, where warmth,comfort and celebration dominate. The space has been adapted for every purpose: all types of business and private celebrations and events are organized here. The menu combines the national cuisine (homemade dishes) and an international one. A unique culinary experience reflects in a combination of delicious food and the best wines, all of which complements live music and a cheerful and relaxed atmosphere. The restaurant perfectly and magnificently matches the atmosphere of the Old Gardoš, a place for enjoyment and inspiration for all artists and bohemians. In the past, only fishermen used to live here. Today, however, real hedonists come here in search for their new favorite place. The restaurant also delighted its current owner, a native Swiss, who was inspired by Zemun and conveyed his love and knowledge in running the restaurant, still continuing the tradition of a good host.

Gardoška 4, Zemun | tel: 011 2196718, 063 1839993

FAMOUS SERBIAN PHOTOGRAPHERS – DRAGAN KURUCIĆ

THE TRUTH MUST LIE DEEP

Photo: Rozana Sazdić

“To me, photography isn’t something routine, something that’s supposed to be a decoration in someone’s space. I endeavor to go beyond frames and place every photo in its own, personal framework, so to say. I don’t depend on institutions. I have my own space, lighting equipment, I make frames in the linden tree by myself, I set exhibitions on my own… Our Oprah Winfrey – Mira Adanja Polak – called me a Renaissance photographer, and think I was born to take photos of the world.”

36 Summer 2019

BelGuest

Petrovaradin Fortress is one of the main attractions of Novi Sad. Its secret labyrinths and military corridors have been given to painters, designers, photographers… to use them, and every one of them rearranged these spaces according to their own crafts and affinities. “Visiting these diverse worlds on the strong Varadin rock is an adventurous experience for itself, and Dragan Kurucić’s Atelier is one of the most comfortable and most imaginative ones. Staying in his ‘house of art’ and conversing with him, with an inevitable glass of Fruška-Gora wine, homemade brandy and marinated peanuts he himself prepares, is a wonderful, impressive experience,” says Gordana Stojaković of the TO of Novi Sad while taking us to Kurucić’s Atelier at the foot of the main plateau of the Fortress. We stepped into a wide defense trench and approached quite an ordinary wooden door. Our host and collocutor, Dragan Kurucić, introduced his world to us. A nice-looking and simple dining-room which was lent nobility through a myriad of little objects dating from various epochs. The walls are equally decorated with the artist’s photographs and the little and big items he has collected – one can see watch mechanisms, lamps, and articles of furniture from the times long gone, winegrowing and cooking kits, weapons originating from a long war history of this bastion. “At the Atelier, the stories about the soldiers who used to live in the bowls of the Fortress, about the communication roads that, through the four parallel levels, lead into its mysterious underground, as well as the stories about the constructors, the mastery of the military engineers and war waging tactics that contributed to giving this unconquerable fort the name of the Gibraltar on the Danube are presented in a particular way,” says Kurucić. “When I entered this space about thirty years ago, it was completely inadequate not only for photography, but also for any other activity. Over time, I gave it a form to be inspiring, so that once dank underground corridor regenerated into the atelier I work at, where I feel good and where I welcome my guests. Every object in this space has its own story – what it was intended for, how it was bought, and why it is put where it is. Apart from tiny objects, I’ve brought different pieces of furniture – the tables, the benches, the china cabinets, the wardrobes… of which the most intriguing is an elderly lady’s wardrobe still exuding a divine fragrance. I like being surrounded by the things with a soul. I’ve been ‘arranging’ these two hundred square meters for decades now. I’ve made many deals in here and many new acquaintances, too, and everyone is allowed to form their own opinion about it (and about me as well). So, for example, when the president of photography amateurs of Great Britain came to visit me, he told me that, after he had seen my works, he expected me to be much older, and an MTV producer who dropped by after the Exit mentioned that my photographs were good, but that I should be thinking of becoming an interior decorator. (laughs). I’m in the hedonistic mood, so I created the socializing corners in several places at the Atelier. Yet, my most favorable part of the Atelier is that outside. There, on the outer wall of the Fortress, I often set an exhibition.” Drinking well-cooled white wine which steams up the glasses, we continue our conversation about his professional biography.

BelGuest

Summer 2019

You come from an artistic family. You’ve engaged in studio photography since 1978, and you professionally started in 1990. In the meantime, you graduated from the Faculty of Applied Photography, specialized in illustration, finished the master’s studies of photography, but you actually started as a veterinarian. Yes, I love animals. But I gave up on this profession when I saw that the animals I had cured were doomed to ‘leave this world’. That was upsetting me, so I have decided to occupy myself with something totally different. I became a photographer. In the beginning, I focused my interest not on the motive and creativity, but rather on knowledge and technical performance. I consider that the premise ‘first comes mastery, then art’ is the right direction for the development of every artist. In the previous period, I have received numerous awards in the photo-design field – posters, packaging, calendars… Even today I adhere to high criteria concerning the technical nature of a photograph.

Dragan Kurucić is a member of the Association of Applied Arts Artists and Designers of Vojvodina, the Visual Arts Circle Association from the Fortress of Petrovaradin, and the European Institute for Photography. His photographs are presented throughout the world – they have been seen by the audience in London, Paris, Stockholm, Prague, Budapest… He has published his photos in the journals in Romania, Hungary, France, Italy, and Japan. He authored a luxury edition of the About Hilandar monograph, issued on the occasion of the 800th anniversary of the monastery. Info: dragankurucic.com

Sometimes you’ve used fog as a source of light, recorded meditating animals, portrayed people and their misfortunes… All your photos look as if they were graphics. This is particularly so when those in which, as you say, reflect time are in question. At the Atelier, you can see the photos deteriorating due to a lapse of time. Namely, I deliberately badly fixed some photos and they slowly began to lose color from the bottom. It is interesting to see it, although the idea of a photo is to be permanent and timeless. Yet, I want to show permanency in another case – you’ve seen it here, in a prominent place, a photo ’64 hats and 3 scarves’, which was taken in Novi Sad in 1922. By interpolation, i.e. the artificial insertion of pixels, I magnified it and prepared it for printing. I made a proposal to the City to fix and magnify about a hundred such small-format photos so that my fellow-citizens and visitors could see a segment of their history. You like setting photo exhibitions “in the open air”? You exhibited at Parisian Trocadéro Square and the subject matter was Hilandar. On the occasion of the candidature of Novi Sad for the European Capital of Culture, an exhibition of your photographs entitled “All the Colors of Fruška Gora” was organized in the city center, because of which you travelled several thousand kilometers. To me, photography is not something routine, something that’s supposed to be a decoration in someone’s space. I endeavor to go beyond frames and place every photo in its own, personal framework, so to say. I don’t depend on institutions. I have my own space, lighting equipment, I make frames in the linden tree by myself, I set exhibitions on my own… I’ve just prepared an exhibition entitled ‘Baroque undreground’. The small town of Petrovaradin at the foot of the Fortress blazes in full splendor after the renovation. But its inhabitants have a strange history. In the socialist time, the poor were being inhabited here in inadequate residential spaces. Today, their ancestors are mainly either at the end of their lives, or solitaries without anything at all. Then something we call magic happened. Dragan Kurucić took the already packaged frames out of the storage compartment of his car, and in just a few minutes he set an exhibition on the walls of the fort for us. Illuminated by the sunlight, a thin old woman without a sparkle in her eyes and almost invisible under the bedlinen in which she counts her last days was looking at us; we saw a silhouette of a man sitting on a sofa placed on the dusty floor, the only furniture he had; and a young man of a fragile appearance and stature, from whose lively eyes an imprudent look arises. This ad-hoc exhibition did not leave us indifferent. Unhappy human destinies are told in a refined visual language free of pathos, and yet they are deeply affecting. We departed touched by the life stories of the people who we mainly do not notice and nourished with the beauties of Fruška Gora, sea boats, the Holy Mount… captured by Kurucić’s camera lens and the special warmth and charm of some details in his atelier: the red kilim, a winegrower’s straw, cracked hat, the small wine boutiques hidden in the niches of the thick walls. Rozana Sazdić i Milena Mihaljčić

38 Summer 2019

BelGuest

Chilandar, Fog

Mount Athos, open sea

Mount Athos, Agios Dimitros

Perko's salash farm: a composition in blue

Chilandar, a fountain

Old NeĹĄtin

BelGuest

Summer 2019

POZ N AT I SRP SK I F OTOGR A F I – DR AGA N KUR UC IĆ

I S TINA M OR A D A LE ŽI D U B O K O „Fotografija nije za mene nešto svakidašnje, nešto što treba da ukrasi nečiji prostor. Nastojim da izađem iz ramova i da svaku stavim u svoj, odnosno, lični okvir. Ne zavisim od institucija, imam svoj prostor, rasvetu, sam pravim ramove u lipinom drvetu, sam postavljam izložbe… Mira Adanja Polak nazvala me je renesansnim fotografom, a ja o sebi mislim da sam baš za to rođen .“

40 Summer 2019

BelGuest

Jedna od glavnih atrakcija Novog Sada je Petrovaradinska tvrđava. Njeni tajni lavirinti i vojni koridori dati su na korišćenje novosadskim slikarima, dizajnerima, fotografima... a oni su ih, svako u skladu sa svojim zanatom i afinitetom preuredili. „Poseta ovim raznolikim svetovima na stamenoj varadinskoj steni doživljaj je za sebe, a atelje Dragana Kurucića je jedan od najprijatnijih i najmaštovitijih. Boravak u njegovoj ’umetničkoj kući’ i razgovor s njim uz obaveznu čašu fruškogorskog vina, domaće rakije i mariniranog kikirija koji sam priprema zaista je divno, upečatljvo iskustvo“, priča nam Gordana Stojaković iz TO Novog Sada dok nas vodi do Kurucićevog atelja u podnožju glavnog platoa Tvrđave. Ulazimo u jedan široki odbrambeni rov i prilazimo sasvim običnim drvenim vratima s gvozdenim okovima. Naš domaćin i sagovornik, Dragan Kurucić, uvodi nas u svoj svet. Lepa i jednostavna trpezarija oplemenjena je bezbrojnim detaljima. To su predmeti iz raznih epoha. Zidove ukrašavaju jednako umetnikove fotografije i sitnice i krupnice koje je sakupio – mogu se videti mehanizmi satova, lampe i pokućstvo iz minulih vremena, vinarski i kuvarski pribori, oružje iz duge ratne istorije ovog bastiona. „U Ateljeu su na određen način predstavljene priče o vojnicima koji su živeli u utrobi Tvrđave, o komunikacijskim putevima koji kroz četiri paralelna nivoa vode u njeno tajnovito podzemlje, kao i priče o graditeljima, umeću vojnih inženjera i ratnim taktikama koje su doprinele da neosvojiva utvrda dobije naziv Gibraltar na Dunavu“, kaže nam Kurucić. „Kada sam pre tridesetak godina ušao u ovaj prostor, on je bio potpuno neuslovan, ne samo za fotografiju, već za bilo koju delatnost. Vremenom, oblikovao sam ga da bude inspirativan, pa je nekada memljivi petrovaradinski lagum preporođen u atelje u kojem radim, gde se jako dobro osećam i gde dočekujem goste. Svaki predmet u ovom prostoru ima svoju priču – čemu je služio, kako je kupljen i zašto je stavljen na određeno mesto. Pored sitnih predmeta, donešen je različit nameštaj – stolovi, klupe, vitrine, ormani… od kojih mi je najitrigantniji orman jedne bake iz kog se još uvek oseća božanstveni miris. Volim da sam okružen stvarima koje imaju dušu. Ovih dvesta kvadrata „doterujem“ decenijama. Doneo mi je mnoge poslove i nova poznanstva, a svako može da stvori svoje mišljenje o njemu (a i o meni). Tako, kada me je, na primer, posetio predsednik amatera fotografije Velike Britanije, rekao mi je da je, videvši moje radove, očekivao da sam mnogo stariji, a čelnik MTV-a koji je svratio posle Exit-a napomenuo je da su mi fotografije dobre, ali da bi trebalo da razmišljam o tome da se bavim opremanjem prostora (smeh). Hedonistički sam raspoložen, pa sam na više mesta u ateljeu napravio kutke za druženje. Ipak, najomiljeniji deo ateljea je onaj napolju. Tu često, na spoljnom zidu, postavim izložbu.“ Uz dobro ohlađeno belo karlovičko vino koje magli čašu, nastavljamo razgovor na temu njegove profesionalne biografije.

BelGuest

Summer 2019

KuveĹždin Monastery: St. Sava's Church

Mount Athos, Osiou Gregoriou Monastery

Chilandar, the cellar

NeĹĄtin, a view from an old house

Perko's salash farm - making homemade noodles

42 Summer 2019

BelGuest

Potičete iz umetničke porodice. Bavite se studijskom fotografijom od 1978, a u profesionalne vode ulazite 1990. U međuvremenu, diplomirali ste na fakultetu za primenjenu fotografiju, specijalizirali ilustraciju, završili master studije fotografije, ali počeli ste kao veterinar. Da, volim životinje, ali sam odustao od ove profesije kada sam uvideo da životinje koje izlečim ubrzo završe „na onom svetu“. To me je uznemiravalo i tada sam rešio da se bavim nečim sasvim drugim. Postao sam fotograf. U početku fokus mog interesovanja nije bio na motivu i kreativnosti, već na znanju i tehničkoj izvedbi. Smatram da je premisa „prvo umešnost, pa onda umetnost“ pravi pravac za razvoj svakog umetnika. Prethodni period doneo mi je brojne nagrade u oblasti foto-dizajna – plakat, ambalaža, kalendari... I danas sam zadržao visoke kriterijume koji se tiču tehničke prirode fotografije. Ne mora svaka da bude umetnička, ali uvek insistiram da postignem u realizaciji fotografije ono što želim. Koristili ste ponekad maglu kao izvor svetla, beležili životinje koje „meditiraju“, portretisali ljude i njihove nedaće… Sve vaše fotografije izgledaju kao da su grafike. A naročite su one u kojima se, kako kažete, ogleda vreme? U ateljeu se mogu videti fotografije koje propadaju zbog protoka vremena. Naime, namerno sam neke loše fiksirao i one su počele odozdo polako da blede. Zanimljivo je to videti, iako je ideja fotografije da bude trajna i bezvremena. Trajnost, pak, želim da prikažem u drugom slučaju – videli ste ovde na istaknutom mestu fotografiju „64 šešira i 3 marame“ koja je snimljena u Novom Sadu 1922. godine. Ja sam je interpolacijom, tj. veštačkim ubacivanjem piksela uvećao i pripremio za štampu. Predložio sam Gradu da stotinak takvih fotografija koje su malog formata, popravim i uvećam kako bi moji sugrađani i posetioci Novog Sada mogli da vide deo njegove istorije. Volite da pravite izložbe fotografija „na otvorenom“? Izlagali ste na pariskom trgu Trokadero fotografije na temu Hilandara, a povodom kandidature Novog Sada za Evropsku prestonicu kulture, priređena je u centru grada izložba Vaših fotografija po nazivom „Sve boje Fruške gore“ zbog koje ste pešice „prevalili“ više hiljada kilometara… Fotografija nije za mene nešto svakidašnje, nešto što treba da ukrasi nečiji prostor. Nastojim da izađem iz ramova i da svaku stavim u svoj, odnosno, lični okvir. Ne zavisim od institucija, imam svoj prostor, rasvetu, sam pravim ramove u lipinom drvetu, sam postavljam izložbe… Upravo sam pripremio izložbu pod nazivom „Barok underground“. Petrovardin, gradić podno tvrđave i jedan od lepih primera domaće barokne arhitekture, posle nedavnog renoviranja, ponovo blista u punom sjaju. Ali, njegovi stanovnici imaju čudnu istoriju. U doba socijalizma ovde su, u neuslovnim stambenim prostorima, naseljavali sirotinju. Danas su oni i njihovi potomci mahom ili na kraju životnog veka ili usamljenici bez igde ičega. I tada se dogodilo ono što nazivamo magijom trenutka. Dragan Kurucić je već spakovane crno-bele fotografije izvadio iz gepeka automila i za par minuta priredio nam izložbu na zidinama utvrđenja. Obasjana suncem, gledala nas je mršava starica ugaslog pogleda koju je gotovo progutala postelja u kojoj broji svoje poslednje dane, videli smo siluetu jednog čoveka koji sedi na sofi postavljenoj na prašnjavom patosu, koja je jedino pokućstvo koje ima, jedog momka krhkog stasa iz čijiih živih očiju izvire nerazborit pogled. Ova ad hoc postavljena izložba nije nas ostavila ravnodušnim. Nevesele ljudske sudbine ispričane su prefinjenim vizuelnim jezikom bez patosa, a ipak su potresne. Rastajemo se i pogođeni životnim pričama ljudi koje uglavnom ne primećujemo i nahranjeni Kurucićevim objekitvom zabeležnim lepotama Fruške gore, morskih barki, Svete gore... i posebnom toplinom i šarmom nekih detalja njegovog ateljea: crvenog ćilima, slamenog, napuklog vinogradarevog šešira, malih vinoteka skrivenih u nišama debelih zidova.

Hidden wine boutiques, photo: Rozana Sazdić Dragan Kurucić član je Udruženja primenjenih umetnika i dizajnera Vojvodine, Udruženja umetnika sa Petrovaradinske tvrđave Likovni krug i Evropskog instituta za fotografiju. Njegovi radovi predstavljeni su širom sveta – videla ih je publika u Londonu, Parizu, Stokholmu, Pragu, Budimpešti... Objavljivao je fotografije u časopisima Rumunije, Mađarske, Francuske, Italije i Japana. Autor je i fotografija luksuzne monografije O Hilandaru, izdatoj povodom 800 godina manastira. Info: dragankurucic.com

Rozana Sazdić i Milena Mihaljčić

BelGuest

Summer 2019

summer

novi

sad / leto

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Passages and Other Hidden Places

Pasaži i druga skrivena mesta

The center of the City is adorned by the AustrianHungarian architecture of the second half of the 19th century, but what it is unique for are the narrow passages hiding shops, cafés, craftsmen’s workshops… Pay a short visit to some of them and feel at the same time the spirit of the time gone, permeated with a youthful lifestyle. The passages are the places where you can drink coffee in the shade of the linden-trees, read books, chit-chat with passers-by and acquaintances from other street cafés. In the evening hours, these places transform into oases of seduction, entertainment, love and dance.

Centar grada krasi austrougarska arhitektura iz druge polovine 19. veka, ali ono po čemu je on jedinstven jesu brojni uski pasaži u kojima se kriju prodavnice, kafići, zanatske radionice... Zavirite u neki od njih i osetite istovremeno duh prohujalog vremena prožetog s mladalačkim načinom života. Pasaži su mesta za ispijanje kafe u hladu pod lipama, čitanje knjiga, ćaskanje sa prolaznicima i poznanicima iz drugih „bašta“. U večernjim satima ova mesta se pretvaraju u oaze zavođenja, provoda, ljubavi i plesa.

Old Crafts Workshops

Radionice starih zanata

Danube Street is the center of old craftsmen. Visit the “Manual” Workshop where leather articles are made, and the “Manual” Museum of Forgotten Arts, which has a collection of 150,000 objects testifying to life in Vojvodina. In the immediate vicinity of the workshop, there is “Ivković” Atelier and Bookbinder’s Shop – the oldest family manufacture in the city. There are distinct in that they harmoniously unite into one art and craft. Chocolate lovers may visit “Eugen Chocolate” in Petra Drapšina Street; it’s a company producing fine chocolates. Their sweet creations are spiced with fruits, medicinal herbs, fine aromas.

Dunavska ulica stecište je starih majstora Posetite glasovitu Manual radionicu za izradu predmeta od kože i Manual muzej zaboravljenih umetnosti koji sadrži zbirku od 150.000 predmeta koji svedoče o životu u Vojvodini. U neposrednom susedstvu redionice je Atelje i knjigoveznica Ivković – najstarija porodična manufaktura u gradu. Njihova posebnost je u tome što skladno objedinjuju umetnost i zanat. Obožavaoci čokolade će ulici Petra Drapšina naići na Eugen Chocolate, kompaniju za proizvodnju finih čokolada. Njihove slatke kreacije začinjene su voćem, lekovitim biljem, finim aromama.

Danube Riverbank

Dunavska obala

The Danube is awarded the epithet “the sea of Novi Sad”, which was contributed to by the most beautiful “Strand” sand beach, together with the “Danube Quay” Promenade. During the summer, the Strand is the meeting place of the lovers of sunbathing, swimming, sports on sand, of which citizens of Novi Sad most eagerly play the so-called “picigen”, a unique game with a ball in a shallow spot. Opposite the Strand, there is the Fishermen’s Island, a weekend settlement plunged into the greenery, where you can first of all taste the excellent fishermen’s cuisine. The Danube Quay casts a beautiful view of the bridges and the Fortress of Petrovaradin. No matter if you are a lover of biking, driving rollers, playing basketball or mini-golf, or jogging – this is the right place for you.

Dunav nosi epitet „novosadskog mora“, a tome je doprinela prekrsana peščana plaža Štrand zajedno sa šetalištem Dunavski kej. Tokom leta, Štrand je mesto susreta ljubitelja sunčanja, plivanja, sportova na pesku, od kojih Novosađani najradije igraju „picigen“, jedinstvenu igru loptom u plićaku. Preko puta Štranda nalazi se Ribarsko ostrvo, vikend naselje uronjeno u zelenilo gde možete probati, pre svega, vrsnu alasku kuhinju. Sa Dunavskog keja pruža se divan pogled na mostove i Petrovaradinsku tvrđavu. Bilo da ste ljubitelji bicikla, rolera, basketa ili golfa, ovo je pravo mesto za Vas.

46 Summer 2019

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Fruška Gora

Fruška gora

The National Park of Fruška Gora lies in the vicinity of the city. Mountaineering societies offer trekking in nature to the excursion resort centers of Stražilovo, Popovica, Iriški Venac, Zmajevac… For more information, please visit: www.psdzeleznicarns.org.rs As many as 30 monasteries were erected on Fruška Gora in the period from the 15th to the 18th centuries, for which reason it was called “Northern Holy Mountain”. To date, 16 monasteries have been preserved; they are always open for visitors and their beauty and history attract visitors’ attention. Vrdnik spa, famous for its thermal medicinal water, lies on the southern slopes. The spa has both indoor and outdoor swimming-pools and diverse accommodation facilities.

U blizini grada nalazi se nacionlni park Fruška gora. Planinarski programi nude pešačenja do izletišta Stražilovo, Popovica, Iriški venac, Zmajevac... Info: psdzeleznicarns.org.rs U periodu od 15. do 18. veka na Fruškoj godi je podignuto čak 30 manastira, zbog čega je nosila naziv „Severna Sveta gora“. Do danas je sačuvano 16 manastira koji su uvek otvoreni za posetioce i koji plene svojom lepotom i istorijom. Na južnim padinama, smestila se banja Vrdnik, poznata po termalnoj lekovitoj vodi. Poseduje zatvorene i otvorene bazene, raznovrsne smeštajne objekte i etno kompleks.

Wine Routes

Vinske staze

Fruška Gora is characterized by an exceptional climate suitable for growing grapevines. Winegrowing in this region is one of the oldest such in Europe given that grapevines have been grown ever since the third century. There are numerous family-owned wineries in the charming baroque-style town of Sremski Karlovci. The typical white wine is Italian Riesling, as well as Traminac, Sauvignon, Rhine Riesling… The most famous sorts of red wine are Franconia, Portugieser, Probus… The original dessert Bermet wine is sweet, perfumed and aromatic wine produced by a special technology with the addition of diverse medicinal herbs and spices. It is unique in the world, and it was a favorable wine at European courts.

Fruška gora ima izuzetnu klimu za uzgoj vinove loze. Vinogradarstvo na ovom prostoru je jedno od najstarijih u Evropi, jer se vinova loza uzgaja još od 3 v.n.e. U Sremskim Karlovcima, šarmantnom baroknom gradiću, nalaze se mnogobrojne porodične vinarije. Tipično belo vino je italijanski rizling, kao i traminac, sovinjon, župljanka, rajnski rizling... Najpoznatije sorte crnog vina su frankovka, portugizer, merlot, probus... Originalno desertno vino bermet predstavlja slatko, mirišljavo i aromatično vino, koje se proizvodi po posebnoj tehnologiji uz dodatak različitog lekovitog bilja i začina.

Salash Farms

Salaši

The settlement of Čenej, famous for its salash farms scattered around the plain in a typical Vojvodina ambience is located about ten kilometers away from Novi Sad. The salash farms preserve the spirit of the times gone, the traditional way of living, the proven old recipes for tasty homemade meals, the sounds of the tambura, with a lot of domestic animals around, where you can enjoy horseriding and fiacre rides in a pleasant and relaxing atmosphere, and slow down time at least for a moment… You can spend your leisure moments staying in Salash Farm 137, Paja’s Salash Farm, Brka’s Salash Farm, Mita’s Salash Farm, and many other salashes, inevitably having great time with your hosts.

Desetak kilometara od Novog Sada nalazi se Čenej, koji je poznat kao naselje salaša, tipično mesto za stanovanje u Panonskoj ravnici. Salaši čuvaju duh prošlih vremena, tradicionalni način života, oprobane stare recepte za ukusnu domaću trpezu, zvuk tambure, uz mnoštvo domaćih životinja, a po negde i konja. Svoje vreme možete lepo ispuniti boravkom na Salašu 137, Pajinom salašu, Brkinom salašu, Mitinom salašu i brojnim drugim, uz neizostavno druženje sa domaćinima.

For more info, please visit: www.novisad.travel BelGuest

Summer 2019

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EXHIBITIONS AND CONCERTS / IZLOŽBE I KONCERTI EXAMINATION OF MATURITY ISPIT ZRELOSTI 15th May – 15th July Museum of Vojvodina /Muzej Vojvodine Info: www.muzejvojvodine.org.rs PAVLE BELJANSKI AND IVO ANDRIĆ: DIPLOMATS AND DONORS PAVLE BELJANSKI I IVO ANDRIĆ: DIPLOMATE I DARODAVCI 13th June – 4th August The Pavle Beljanski Memorial Collection / Spomen-zbirka Pavla Beljanskog Info: www.pavle-beljanski.museum SHILPA RAY 24th July Firchie Think Tank Studio Info: www.shilparay.net

F E S T I VA L S A N D M A N I F E S TAT I O N S / F E S T I VA L I I M A N I F E S TAC I J E NIGHT MARATHON NOĆNI MARATON 22nd June Sunny Quay Info: www.nocnimaraton.rs SUMMER AT THE GALLERY SQUARE LETO NA TRGU GALERIJA 22nd June –5th September Gallery Square /Trg galerija Info: www.pavle-beljanski.museum 46TH INFANT – International Festival of Alternative and New Theatre 46. INFANT – Internacionalni festival alternativnog i novog teatra 25th June – 2nd July Serbian National Theatre, Cultural Centre of Novi Sad Srpsko narodno pozorište, Centar za kulturu Novi Sad Info: www.infant.rs WATER FEST 27th-30th June Cultural Centre of Novi Sad /Centar za kulturu Novi Sad Info: www.waterfest.rs

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F E S T I VA L S A N D M A N I F E S TAT I O N S / F E S T I VA L I I M A N I F E S TAC I J E VOJVODINA GUITAR FESTIVAL – KISAČ GITARIJADA VOJVODINE – KISAČ 2nd-3rd July Auxiliary pitch of the FC Tatra, Kisač Info: www.gitarijadakisac.com OPENS YOUTH FAIR SAJAM OMLADINSKOG TURIZMA 2nd-3rd July Liberty Square, Catholic church yard Info: www.youth-fair.com EXIT FESTIVAL 4th-7th July Petrovaradin Fortress / Petrovaradinska tvrđava Info: www.exitfest.org NOVI SAD MUSIC SUMMER NOVOSADSKO MUZIČKO LETO 15th July – 15th August Synagogue / Sinagoga Info: www.muzickaomladina.org OPENS FESTIVAL BOJA 12th August Štrand /Štrand Info: www.muzickaomladina.org NOVI SAD – TANGO CITY 15th-18th August Liberty square, Matica Srpska Gallery, Hotel Park, Petrovaradin Fortress... Trg slobode, Galerija Matice Srpske, Hotel Park, Petrovaradinska tvrđava... Info: www.todotango-ns.com DAYS OF BRAZIL – NOVI SAD SAMBA CARNIVAL DANI BRAZILA – NOVOSADSKI SAMBA KARNEVAL 23rd-25th August Petrovaradin Fortress, Štrand, Old City core Petrovaradinska tvrđava, Štrand, Gradski trg Info: www.danibrazila.org 19TH STREET MUSICIANS FESTIVAL – GRADIC FEST 19. FESTIVAL ULIČNIH SVIRAČA – GRADIĆ FEST 29th-31st Avgust Beogradska Street, Lisinskog Street, Vladimira Nazora Street, Štrosmajerova Street... Beogradska ulica, Ulica Lisinskog, Ulica Vladimira Nazora, Štrosmajerova ulica... Info: www.ulicnisviraci.com FESTIVAL TASTES OF VOJVODINA FESTIVAL UKUSI VOJVODINE 7th-8th September Liman Park /Park Liman Info: www.novisad.travel

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An Irig Heavenly Story Irig is a God-given environment for hedonists, not only because of its exquisite wines and wineries, the beauties of Fruška Gora Mount in the center of which it lies, or because of the abundant interesting places in its environment: the monasteries of Fruška Gora, Vrdnik Banja spa, the ethno-villages of Vrdnička kula, Perkov salaš, the lakes of Međeš and Šelevrenac… This rather small town is an attractive excursion center first of all because of its cordial, hospitable, but professional people. The history records that this town was mentioned for the first time in the early 13th century. According to the tradition, there was an important heartland here in the 15th and the 16th centuries. That was the time when Serbian despots,, ruled in Srem. There is a record that, at the beginning of the 18th century, the settlement acquired the status of the heartland of the Serbs in Srem. Those were the mythical times in which the famous general Eugene of Savoy victoriously rode his horse leading the multinational army, which also comprised Serbian frontiersmen. From that time to date, over three centuries of the development and hardships of this small town has been hewn into its urban, cultural and mythical milieu. Capital of Fruška Gora Mount The economic power of the small town at the periphery of the Habsburg Monarchy started developing in the mid18th century, first based on the imperial privilege that entitled it to income from as many as two fairs a year, then on its vine and fruit plantations. Beside trade and craftsmanship, wine and fruit growing were the powerful drivers of the educational and cultural life. Men and women of Irig will first tell you that their small town, “the capital of Fruška Gora Mount”, is the exact place where the oldest Serbian Library was established (1842), and that out of a total of sixteen monasteries of Fruška Gora there are eight in their territory: Krušedol, Novo Hopovo, Staro Hopovo, Vrdnička Ravanica, Velika Remeta, Mala Remeta, Grgeteg and Jazak.

50 Summer 2019

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ARCHITECTURE – A WITNESS TO PROSPERITY The urban matrix of the Irig town core is protected as a cultural good of great significance. That is the space which begins with Nikolajevska Church and spans Fishermen’s Square, Ivo Lola Ribar Str., ZmajJovina Str., Stevana Puzića Str. and the surrounding streets, and consists of the buildings whose façades are ornamented with the elements of different styles from the baroque and classicistic to eclectic and secessionist styles. That the small town used to be a powerful urban heartland is also testified to by the downtown churches. The Serbs built as many as three orthodox temples for the needs of their own community growing in number and economic richness, and there is also a Roman-Catholic parish church from the 19th century. IRIG PESTILENCES Who knows how the geography of the settlement and the demography of the population of Southern Hungary would have been developed if a plague epidemic had not erupted in the region of Srem only to half the population in 1795/6. An interesting data says that prior to the plague the town’s population had been more numerous than Belgrade’s. As misery loves company, the small town was also affected by phylloxera, which completely destroyed the vineyards. Thus, the demographic catastrophe was replaced with an economic one. Today, the monument on both sides of the Irig-Ruma road – the so-called “Klipovi”– installed where a sanitary cordon was and where the plague epidemic was stopped reflect a memory of the horrible hardship days. FISHERMEN’S SQUARE AND WINE STREET The Fishermen’s Square of Irig is a pedestrian zone today, which is beautified by the Nikolajevska Church at the one end, and the Town Park, at the other. The street has been renamed as it used to be, which reminds us of the long-gone time of abundance when the small town, which is not located near the river, always had an impressive offer of fresh fish. At this square today, the famous wine of Irig produced from the grapes grown on the renewed vine plantations is sometimes offered instead of fish. Fishermen’s Square became Wine Street on February 14, on the day of Saint Tryphon, the protector of wine and wine growers, which is also the Patron Saint’s Day of the town itself. The significant production of wine in Irig was renewed by the establishment of the Irig Cellar (1930), and their wines became sought-after by far. Today, this tradition is continued by Kovačević Winery, Mačkov Winery, Deurić Cellar and Winery.

St. Nicholas' Church

Fishermen's square, a detail

Vineyards of Irig BelGuest

Summer 2019

PILGRIMAGE ALONG WINE ROUTES Tpday, the Irig Cellar is part of the famous Kovačević Winery, which offers visits to the Winery, with the included degustation of the wines founded on the family tradition of as many as four generations of winegrowers. In its restaurant, the Kovačević Wine House offers its exquisite wines: Rhine Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Rosetto, Chardonnay S Edition, Aurelius S Edition, Cuvée Piquant and Bermet. Mačkov Cellar Winery offers its guests a program of visits to the vineyards and the degustation of wines accompanied by cold refreshments or cooked meals. So, there are a “minor” and a “major” degustation with cold refreshments, whereas every sort of wine is accompanied by a different cooked meal, ranging from chicken, pork and beef paprikash with homemade noodles to kebabs and game-meat paprikash typically prepared in Srem. It is hard for one to resist the wines of Mačkov Cellar – Incognito, Traminer Perfumed, Lady, Bermet Discretion. Not only does Deurić Winery, situated not far from Irig, offer its visitors wine degustation, but it also organizes the Wine School course for the interested in its inspiring space. The famous wines produced by the Deurić House are Probus, Marselan, The Enigma, Axiom, the Wave… THE GREEN DAY Irig is God-given heaven for hedonists not only because of its wine, the national park of Fruška Gora Mount, the monasteries, the lakes… In recent years, there has been a quality accommodation offer here, which meets tourists’ needs. What may particularly be singled out, however, is the offer made by the Green Day Villa through organizing festivities in the way celebrating “love, closeness, life and hedonism”. As the owners of the Villa and the creators of the new concept of organizing private events write about their own product, “the Green Day Villa is an ecological spectacle, where each of the 3000m2 of the greenery tells its own story.”And the story is told in such a way that via the interior and exterior imaginatively constructed (a violet tree, candles on the grass, autumn decorations of straw and pumpkins) the participants of private events get an impression for just a moment that they are at some Jet Set vintage, shabby chick, retro- or Daft Punk party abroad. NOTABLE INHABITANTS The Irig experience transfers onto visitors a certain amount of hedonistic pessimism interwoven with a breath of optimistic indulgence, which is deeply accompanied and supplemented by the wines of Irig. The nature, art, prosperity, centuries of temptations, life and creation – all these make the historical matrix of Irig, which is also testified to in a special way by its notable persons: the first Slavoni-Serbian woman writer and “lover of science”, Eustahija Arsić; a painter and Ilya Repin’s pupil Vasa Eškićević, and a writer Borislav Mihajlović-Mihiz. The recently reconstructed writer Mihaljović’s birth house, the Culture Development Center today, is also a hope that better times are coming for Irig.

Fishermen's Square

The yard of the "Green Day" Villa

Gordana Stojaković Foto: Dragan Kurucić

New Hopovo Monastery

52 Summer 2019

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info: New and Old Hopovo Monasteries: http://www.eparhija-sremska.rs/manastiri Restaurants (and apartments) of Kovačević Wine House, Irig, Krstašice bb Mačkov Cellar Winery, Irig, Zanatski centar bb Deurić Winery (and apartments), Ekonomija “salaš”, Mala Remeta Mila’s Dungeon (Milin Lagum), Irig, Ribarski trg 16 Fruška Gora Guesthouse, Irig, Fruškogorska 141 Green Day Villa, Irig Krstašice 97 Tourism Organization of Irig Municipality: http://www.turorgirig.org.rs

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IRIŠKA, RAJSKA PRIČA Irig je bogomdani kraj za hedoniste i to ne samo zbog vrhunskih vina i vinarija, lepota Fruške gore u čiji se centar smestio, niti zbog obilja interesantnih mesta u okruženju: fruškogorskih manastira, Banje Vrdnik, etnosela Vrdnička kula, Perkovog salaša, jezera Međeš i Šelevrenac... Ova nevelika varoš privlačno je izletište, pre svega, zbog svojih srdačnih, gostoprimljivih, ali i profesionalnih ljudi.

Istorija beleži da se mesto prvi put pominje u ranom 13. veku. Predanje kaže da je u 15 i 16. veku ovde bilo važno središte. Blo je to doba kada su srpski despoti, među njima i Zmaj Ognjeni Vuk, vladali Sremom. Zapisano je da je početkom 18. veka naselje steklo status središta Srba u Sremu. Bila su to mitska vremena u kojima je pobedonosno jezdio slavni vojskovođa Evgenije Savojski predvodeći raznonacionalnu vojsku u kojoj su bili i Srbi graničari. Od tada do danas, više od tri veka razvoja i stradanja ove varošice uklesano je u njen urbani, kulturni i mitski milje. PRESTONICA FRUŠKE GORe Ekonomska moć gradića na periferiji Habzburške monarhije rasla je počev od sredine 18. veka, najpre na osnovu carske privilegije koja mu je davala pravo na prihode od čak dva vašara godišnje, a zatim i na zasadima vinove loze i voća. Pored trgovine i zanatstva, vinogradarstvo i voćarstvo bili su moćni pokretači prosvetnog i kulturnog života. Irižani i Irižanke će vam o svojoj varoši najpre reći da je upravo tu u „prestonici Fruške gore“ osnovano najstarija Srpska čitaonica (1842), te da se od ukupno šesnaest fruškogorskih manastira osam nalazi na njihovoj teritoriji: Krušedol, Novo Hopovo, Staro Hopovo, Vrdnička Ravanica, Velika Remeta, Mala Remeta, Grgeteg i Jazak.

"Kovačević" winery cellar

BelGuest

Summer 2019

ARHITEKTURA – SVEDOK PROSPETITEA Urbanistička matrica iriškog gradskog jezgra zaštićena je kao kulturno dobro od velikog značaja. To je prostor koji započinje Nikolajevskom crkvom i pruža se preko Ribarskog trga, Ive Lole Ribara, Zmaj Jovine, Stevana Puzića i okolnih ulica, a čine ga građevine čije su fasade ukrašene elementima različitih stilova od baroka i klasiczma do eklektike i secesije. Da je varoš nekada bila moćno urbano središte svedoče i crkve u centru grada. Srbi su za potrebe sopstvene, brojem i ekonomskim bogatstvom rastuće zajednice, sagradili čak tri pravoslavna hrama, a tu je i Rimokatolička župna crkva iz 19. veka. IRIŠKE POŠASTI I ko zna kako bi geografija naselja i demografija stanovništva Južne Ugarske tekle da u oblasti Srema nije buknula epidemija kuge, koja je 1795/6 prepolovila stanovništvo. Zanimljiv je podatak da je pre kuge grad imao više stanovnika od Beograda. A kako jedna nevolja nikad ne ide sama, varoš je pogodila i najezde filoksere koja je potpuno uništila vinograde. Tako je demografsku katastrofu smenila ekonomska. Uspomenu na strašne dana stradanja danas predstavljaju „Kipovi“ – obeležja sa obe strane puta Irig – Ruma postavljena na mestu gde je bio sanitarni kordon i gde je pošast kuge zaustavljena. RIBARSKI TRG I VINSKA ULICA Iriški Ribarski trg danas je pešačka zona koju sa jednog kraja krasi Nikolajevska crkva, a sa drugog Gradski park. Ulici je vraćen stari naziv koji podseća na pređašnje vreme izobilja kada je varošica, koja nije blizu reke, uvek imala impresivnu ponudu sveže ribe. Danas se na ovom trgu umesto ribe ponekad nudi čuveno iriško vino spravljeno od grožđa stasalog na obnovljenim zasadima vinove loze. Ribarski trg postaje Vinska ulica 14. februara na dan Sv. Trifuna zaštitnika vina i vinogradara, kada je i krsna slava samog mesta. Značajna proizvodnja vina u Irigu obnovljena je osnivanjem Podruma Irig (1930), a njihova vina postala su nadaleko tražena. Ovu tradiciju danas nastavljaju Vinarija Kovačević, Vinarija Mačkov podrum i Vinarija Deurić. HODOČAŠČE VINSKIM STAZAMA Iriški podrum danas je deo poznate Vinarije Kovačević koja nudi obilaske Vinarije sa degustacijom vina utemeljenih na porodičnoj tradiciji čak četiri generacije vinara. U svom restoranu Vinska kuća Kovačević nude svoja vrhuska vina: Rajnski Rizling, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Rosetto, Chardonnay S Edicija, Aurelius S Edicija, Cuvée Piquant i Bermet. Vinarija Mačkov podrum ima za posetioce program obilaske vinograda i degustacije vina uz hladnu zakusku ili kuvana jela. Tako postoje „mala“ i „velika“ degustacija uz hladnu zakusku, a uz svaku vrstu vina ide drugačije kuvano jelo: od pilećeg, svinjskog i junećeg paprikaša sa domaćim knedlama do sremskog ćevapa i paprikaša od divljači. Vinima Mačakovog podruma Incognito, Traminac mirisavi, Frajla, Bermet diškrecija teško je odoleti. Vinarija Deurić, koja se nalazi nedaleko od Iriga, u svom inspirativnom prostoru nudi na samo vinske degustacije, već za zainteresovane organizuje tečaj Škole vina. Poznata vina Kuće Deurić su Probus, Marselan, The, Enigma, Aksiom, Talas...

54 Summer 2019

BelGuest

St. Nicholas' Church

Deurić Winery

ZELENI DAN Irig je bogomdani raj za hedoniste i to ne samo zbog vina, nacionalnog parka Fruška gora, manastira, jezera... Poslednih godina ovde postoji kvalitetna ponuda smeštaja koja izlazi u susret potrebama turista. Ali, ono što se posebno izdvaja je jedinstvena ponuda Green Day vile kroz organizacije svečanosti na način koji slavi „ljubav, prisnost, život i hedonizam.“ Kako o sopstvenom proizvodu pišu vlasnici Vile i kretori novog koncepta organizovanja privatnih događaja „Green Day Vila je ekološki spektakl, gde svaki od 3000 kvadratnih metara zelenila priča svoju priču“. A priča je ispričana tako da se učesnicima privatnih događaja posredstvom izmaštanog enterijera i eksterijera (ljubičasto drvo, sveće na travi, jesenje dekoracije od slame i bundeve...) za trenutak učini da su na nekoj inostranoj Jet Set vintage, shabby chick, retro ili Daft Punk zabavi. ZNAMENITI STANOVNICI Iriško iskustvo na posetioce prenosi jednu dozu hedonističkog pesimizma ukrštenog s daškom optimističkog prepuštanja, što duboko prate i dopunjuju iriška vina. Priroda, umetnost, prosperitet, vekovi iskušenja, život i stvaranje sve to čini istorijsku matricu Iriga o koju na poseban način svedoče i njegove znamenite ličnosti: prva slavenoserbska spisateljica i „nauk ljubiteljica“, Eustahija Arsić, slikar i učenik Ilje Rjepina, Vasa Eškićević i književnik Borislav Mihajlović-Mihiz. Nadu da za Irig dolaze bolja vremena budi i nedavno obnovljena rodna kuća književnika Mihajlovića, sada Centar za razvoj kulture.

"Green Day" Villa

Gordana Stojaković Foto: Dragan Kurucić

info: Manastiri Novo i Staro Hopovo http://www.eparhija-sremska.rs/manastiri Restoran (i apartmani) Vinska kuća Kovačević, Irig Krstašice bb Vinarija Mačkov podrum, Irig Zanatski centar bb Vinarija Deurić (i apartmani), Ekonomija„salaš“, Mala Remeta Milin Lagum, Irig Ribarski trg 16 Fruška gora Guesthouse, Irig Fruškogorska 141 Green Day vila, Irig Krstašice 97 Turistička organizacija Opštine Irig http://www.turorgirig.org.rs

Old Hopovo, St. Panteleimon's Church

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Summer 2019

T O of V O J V O D I N A R E C O M M E N D S

RHYTHM OF THE SUMMER IN VOJVODINA

Any season of the year is ideal for you to visit Vojvodina. During the summer, apart from natural and cultural attractions, tourists are offered an opportunity to enjoy at nicely-arranged beaches, too. There is a strong link between citizens and the rivers and lakes near which they live, so the citizens will gladly and with pride recommend “their” bathing resort, as Nataša Pavlović, Ph.D., director of the Tourism Organization of Vojvodina, says.

The spirit of the lowlands, the diversity of the tourist attractions, numerous events and good entertainment have increasingly been attracting domestic and foreign tourists. The arranged oasis on the rivers and lakes throughout Vojvodina are especially interesting in the summer. Beside bathing and sports, these places are also suitable for watching nature and for ecotourism. Czardas – the places where you can taste the characteristic aromas of the fishermen’s cuisine – are located in the vicinity of the beaches. SUMMER ENJOYMENTS OF NOVI SAD The river beaches in towns and cities are known as strands, and one of the most famous is the Strand of Novi Sad. It deserves the epithet of the most popular river tourism destination due to its tradition of over a hundred years, the large area covered with the finest sand stretching along the Danube and the numerous sporting, entertainment and catering attractions. The second favorite place attended by the citizens and the visitors of Novi Sad who want to run away from summer heats are the Fruška Gora Mt. lakes of Bruje, Borkovac and Medješ. DANUBIAN LANDSCAPES He who visits Apatin will not resist the spacious sand beach surrounded by the thick forests of the Upper Danube Basin Reserve, the fish-czardas, the EuroVelo6 bicycle route… whereas Sombor is the town where you should surrender to enjoying at the Strand built on the bank of the Great Canal of Bač. Bačka Palanka has two nice-looking beaches – the one on the Danube, and the other on the Lake of Tikvara, in whose vicinity there is a Sports-Recreational Center with a hall and outdoor terrains. The people of Stara Pazova take pride in the beauty of the river islets of Belegiš abounding in sand beaches and camping sites. The Dream Danube Home complex is the jewel of Belegiš. LOWLAND PASTORAL The tranquil Pannonian waters are the right choice for you to relax. The riverbanks of the Tisa, both in Bačka and in Banat, have been “transformed” into nicely-arranged bathing resorts. Which one is the best? Is it the one in Kanjiža, Senta, Ada, Bečej, or New Bečej, Žabalj or Titel? The visitor himself is the one to decide! One of the best-equipped beaches in Vojvodina is situated on the Sava River. It is the Town Beach in Sremska Mitrovica, also known as Brioni. The bathers have at their disposal a whole range of services, and the attractions are so devised that all generations can enjoy. LAKES There is rarely a place in Vojvodina without at least some small hidden beach; in Vršac, there is even a lake at the very heart of the town. Palić is the best-attended lake of Vojvodina since it offers many possibilities for sports and recreation, and is also known for the cultural events organized there. Some of the most significant bathing resorts are also Zobnatičko Lake, Belocrkvanska Lakes, Provala Lake… WATER ATTRACTIONS Those wanting entertainment and a hectic atmosphere rather than tranquility-exuding natural oasis may opt for numerous swimming-pools and sports-recreational centers such as Petroland Aquapark in Bački Petrovac, the Horizont complex in Surduk, the Relax Sports Center in Kovačica… Rozana Sazdić Photo by: TO of Vojvodina (Jaroslav Pap, Damir Rajtnbah),TO of Stara Pazova, R.Sazdić

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Strand of Novi Sad

Tisa River, Tite

T O

V O J V O D I N E

P R E P O R U Č U J E

RITAM VOJVOĐANSKOG LETA

Za posetu Vojvodini idealno je svako godišnje doba. Tokom leta, pored prirodnih i kulturnih atrakcija, turistima se pruža prilika da uživaju i na lepim plažama . Postoji jaka spona između stanovnika i reka i jezera kraj kojih žive, te će vam meštani rado i sa ponosom preporučiti „svoje“ kupalište, kako kaže dr Nataša Pavlović, direktor Turističk eorganizacije Vojvodine. Duh ravnice, raznovrsnost turističkih sadržaja, brojne manifestacije i dobra zabava sve više privlače domaće i strane turiste. Leti su posebno intresantne uređene oaze na rekama i jezerima širom Vojvodine. Osim kupanja i sporta, ova mesta pogodna su i za posmatranje prirode i ekoturizam. U blizini plaža uobičajene su čarde – mesta gde se mogu probati osobeni ukusi alaske kuhinje. NOVOSADSKE LETNJE UŽIVANCIJE Rečne plaže u gradovima poznate su pod imenom štrand, a jedna od najčuvenijih je novosadski štrand. Sa tradicijom dugom preko sto godina, velikom površinom najfinijeg peska koja se proteže pored Dunava i brojnim sportskim, zabavnim i ugostiteljskim sadržajima zaslužuje epitet najpopularnije rečne turističke destinacije. Drugo omiljeno mesto žitelja i posetilaca Novog Sada za beg od letnjih vrelina su fruškogorska jezera Bruje, Borkovac i Međeš. DUNAVSKI PEJZAŽI Ko poseti Apatin neće odoleti prostranoj peščanoj plaži koja je okružena gustim šumama rezervata Gornje Podunavlje, ribljim čardama, biciklističkom stazom EuroVelo 6…, a u Somboru se treba prepustiti uživanju na Štrandu koji je podignut na obali Velikog bačkog kanala. Bačka Palanka ima dve lepe plaže – jednu na Dunavu, a drugu na jezeru Tikvara, u čijoj blizini je Sportsko-rekreativni centar sa halom i terenima na otvorenom. Staropazovčani se diče lepotom Belegiških ada, koje obiluju peščanim plažama i mestima za kampovanje. Dragulj Belegiša je kompleks Dream Danube Home. RAVNIČARSKA PASTORALA Mirne panonske vode su pravi izbor za opuštanje. Obale Tise, kako u Bačkoj, tako i u Banatu, „pretvorene“ su u lepa kupališta. Koje je najbolje? U Kanjiži, Senti, Adi, Bečeju ili Novom Bečeju, Žablju, Titelu? To mora odlučiti sam posetilac! Jedna od najopremljenijih plaža Vojvodine nalazi se na Savi. To je Gradska plaža u Sremskoj Mitrovici, poznata još kao Brioni. Kupačima je na raspolaganju čitav niz usluga, a sadržaji su osmišljeni za sve generacije. JEZERA Retko da ima mesta u Vojvodini koje nema bar neku malu skrovitu plažu, a Vršac, čak, ima jezero u samom centru grada. Palić je najposećenije vojvođansko jezero jer pruža mnogo mogućnosti za sport i rekreaciju, a poznato je i po kulturnim događajima koji se ovde organizuju. Neka od najznačajnijih kupališta su i Zobnatičko jezero, Belocrkvanska jezera, jezero Provala… VODENE ATRAKCIJE Onima koje žele zabavu i gužvu a ne tihe prirodne oaze, namenjeni su brojni bazeni i sportsko-rekreativni centri poput aquaparka Petrolend u Bačkom Petrovcu, kompleksa Horizont u Surduku, Sportskog centar Relax u Kovačici… Rozana Sazdić Foto: TO of Vojvodina (Jaroslav Pap, Damir Rajtnbah),TO of Stara Pazova, R.Sazdić

Belocrkvanska Lakes

Danube River, Apatin

info: Tourism Organization of Vojvodina | Turistička organizacija Vojvodine Bulevar Mihajla Pupina 6/IV - Novi Sad • Tel.: +381 21 452 910 office@vojvodinaonline.com • www.vojvodinaonline.com

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Summer 2019

P E T R O L A N D

A Q U A P A R K

ENTERTAINMENT FOR THE WHOLE FAMILY Starting June 7th, the biggest and the most beautiful complex of PETROLAND Aquapark in Serbia is OPEN TO VISITORS. It is located in Bački Petrovac, only 17 km away from Novi Sad and 115 km away from Belgrade.

The total area of the aquapark is 20 ha. On the area of around 8 ha, there are attractions including more than 20 biggest and fastest slides: the Black Hole Slide is the longest (128 m); the Kamikaze Slide is the highest-rising and the fastest (18 m in height); the joyful Rainbow Slide is for children and adults. Our visitors love most the 125.5-m-long King Slide. The six fantastic swimmingpools, as well as an exciting swimming-pool with special effects for children – the Children’s Paradise, and the other attractions for adults are also an integral part of the space. Take advantage of the unique wave swimming-pools with six types of waves, the Relaxation Swimming-pool, the Wild River with a lot of fun. The thermal water whose temperature exceeds 46°C and which springs at the depths of over 800 m; modern technology ensures that the water is cooled during summertime heats; the temperature of the water in all the swimmingpools ranges between 28°C and 32°C – all this makes the aquapark even more beautiful. Our geothermal water is beneficial for rheumatoid arthritis, Bechterew disease, arthrosis, post-fracture conditions, as well as the conditions after surgical interventions on the bone-joint system, sport injuries during bathing in the relaxation swimming-pool on water inflated beds with bubbles and jets. Afford yourself rest and tranquility, and relax your body. Once guests get enough of bathing, they may entertain on football fields and volleyball courts on the sand. There are also grassy areas, as well as the multi-

functional terrains with artificial grass and spacious beaches with sunshades and chaise lunge chairs which are for free. Of course, there is a broad assortment of the services of the restaurant where you can taste different barbecue specialties and also have excellent pizzas. If you happen to like enjoying quality coffee, cocktails and other tasty drinks, they are right there for you – immediately beside the relaxation swimming-pool at the central Caribbean Bar. Of the additional services, there is an exchange office for visitors and they can also rent locks and safe deposit boxes free of charge; a spacious parking area, the wi-fi zone and the Info-Desk services are also at their disposal. Our visitors will also have a chance to enjoy and entertain themselves with animators and diverse games both for children and for adults. Parties, sports tournaments, various exhibitions, promotions – these are but one segment of the planned activities. If you want to rest, relax, incredibly entertain yourself and if you look for full adrenalin – then come and visit PETROLAND Aquapark in Bački Petrovac. PETROLAND is an ideal place for young people, families with children, as well as those a bit older… The Aquapark is exactly what you need – it’s recreation for your body and soul! Opt for an extended weekend including bathing in PETROLAND Aquapark.

Info: www.facebook.com/aquaparkpetroland • www.petroland.rs 58 Summer 2019

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109 Futoska Street, 21000 Novi Sad, Serbia, Tel: +381 21 487 7444, www.prezidenthotel.com, e-mail: reservations@prezidenthotel.com

2 Karadjordjeva Street, 21205 Sremski Karlovci, Serbia, Tel: +381 21 884 111, www.premierprezidenthotel.com, e-mail: reservations@premierprezidenthotel.com

71 Belilo Street, 21205 Sremski Karlovci, Serbia, Tel. +381 21 298 33 25, www.vilaprezident.com, e-mail: vilaprezident@gmail.com

N I Š C I T Y B R E A K

HOST CITY In order to raise the competitiveness of the tourism offer of Niš, the Tourism Organization of this city incessantly promotes the destination in the country and in the region, and takes part in the organization of numerous events that place Niš on the world tourism map. SOUTHEASTERN SERBIA REGION “At the 20th Tourism and Active Rest Fair held in Niš, the Tourism Organization of Niš initiated a meeting with the representatives of the local tourism organizations for the purpose of establishing the Southeastern Serbia tourism region. All members of the region would benefit from this association – including the creation of a tourist product at the regional level, a joint promotional campaign on the websites of the low-budget companies which are connected with European countries by direct flights, joint appearances at fairs in the country and in the region, the preparation of propaganda material, a possibility of applying for projects at the Ministry, as well as the EU funds. I proposed that, for the beginning, the seat of the region should be in Niš as the economic and tourism center of Southeastern Serbia. The meeting was attended by the representatives of the tourism organizations of Sokobanja, Bela Palanka, Vranje, Aleksinac, Leskovac, Knjaževac, Bujanovac, Bojnik, Medveđa, Negotin, Zaječar, and PE Stara Planina, while National Tourism Organization of Serbia also supported us in the efforts for the formation of the region. Apart from the present representatives, other tourism organizations in the region also showed their interest in it,” explains Uroš Parlić, director of the TO of Niš. CERJANSKA CAVE OPENED TO VISITORS The Cerjanska Cave Visitor Center was ceremonially opened on 21st May. That is a joint project of the Tourism Organization of Niš, the City of Sophia, and the “Love and Light” Montana Association, Bulgaria, within the“Iterreg”IPA program of the cross-border cooperation of Serbian and Bulgaria. The project is aimed, among other things, at supporting the development of sustainable tourism and improving the tourism infrastructure. According to geologists’ estimations, the cave is over 2 million years old. The Center is intended for speleologists, those admiring adrenalin sports and all lovers of nature, and has all to meet visitors’needs. According to Uroš Parlić, the construction of the Visitor Center is the foundation stone of its own kind for a further development of this area, as well as the nearby Kamenički Vis (Kamenica Height) which Cerjanska Cave will be connected with by trekking and biking trails, and mountaineering paths. A NEW VIEW OF SIĆEVAČKA GORGE The Nišava River cut an imposing gorge in-between Suva Planina (Dry Mountain) and the Mountains of Svrljig, thus creating a paradise for the admirers of untouched nature, rafting, Alpinism, mountaineering and paragliding – and all this only 14 km away from the center of Niš. In this nature reserve, there are the monasteries of the Holy Mother of God and Venerable Parasceva the New , as well as the “Venerable Parasceva” Hydro-power plant, which has incessantly been operable ever since 1908, when it illuminated the first house in Niš. It was constructed based on the project of Nikola Tesla and Djordje Stanojević, and is part of the tourist tour “Following the Paths of Nikola Tesla”. Dušan Smiljanić, the Association of the Rangers-Guardians of “Via Miliatris” Protected Goods, whose seat is in Sićevo, prepared a different offer. “I founded the Rangers’ Club with the aim of protecting Sićevačka Gorge and promoting active rest. We set ourselves a

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task to arrange the beach at Sićevo first, then the paths leading to the monasteries, and in cooperation with the competent services, to finally clean and signpost the Roman Road that once passed along the brim of the Gorge. During the summer, we’re going to organize trekking and mountaineering tours and a jeep safari. We’re well-equipped with vehicles, and our team are young and professional people. And enthusiasts, too. We plan to park a jeep in front of the Fortress of Niš, as an info-desk of its own kind, and thus attract all visitors who come to the city to get to know this natural treasure. They’ll have a chance to enjoy the beauties of the gorge from a bird’s eye view, and I believe that it will be one of their strongest impressions they’ll take with themselves when they leave Niš.”

Nišville Jazz Festival is held in several locations in the Fortress from 2nd to 11th August.

SUMMER, MUSIC, FILM… Niš is also recognized as a city of festivals and events. During the summer, numerous music events are held, Nišville being certainly the most famous one. The concept of this festival is based on a fusion of jazz and the ethno-music of different parts of the world. That is why Nišville has a big role in the presentation of the Balkan music as a new music trend. The great performers of artistic music appeared in Niš – Šaban Bajramović, Solomon Burke, Tom Harrell, Richard Galliano, Benny Golson, Randy Brecker, Miroslav Vitous, John Patitucci, Candy Dulfer, Roy Hargrove, Sly & Robbie, Mingus Dynasty, Duško Gojković… At this year’s festival, Maceo Parker, Malina Maye, Bob Geldof, Vlatko Stefanovski, Jo Mersa Marley… will present themselves to the Niš audience – the excellent artists, and also an excellent audience, as the performers themselves have said. Niš is simply a city of good vibes, so the fact that a large number of people from Niš came to the concert of a famous gospel ensemble, Ingramettes With Sherman Holmes, which was held at the amphitheater by the Nišava River on 25th May, does not surprise. This event was organized under the auspices of the Embassy of the USA in Serbia with the support of the TO of Niš. There was the same, great interest in the 6th International “Music Edict” Festival of Spiritual Choir Music, held on the Plateau of St. Sava in June. At the ceremonial closing of the Festival, which was also attended by the ambassadors of the Russian Federation and Mexico, a total of 200 performers from different countries of the world appeared together conducted by maestro Bojan Sudjić. Rozana Sazdić Photo: R. Sazdić, Dušan Mitić Car

The “Film Encounters” Festival of Acting Achievements is organized on the Summer Stage of the Fortress of Niš from 24th to 30th August.

NIŠ – A CITY OF RELISH From 15th to 18th August, the Borek-pie Days GastroEvent is held. “The richness of the Niš cuisine originates from its geographical position and the cultural diversity that has been created by the centuries-long impact of different cultures. When you say ‘Niš’, you immediately also come to think of the borek-pie of Niš, which has been prepared here since as early as 1498. This event promotes the ‘traditional breakfast of Niš’ which visitors to our city remember,” emphasizes the Tourism Organization of Niš.

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Summer 2019

N I Š C I T Y B R E A K

GRAD DOMAĆIN Kako bi podigla konkurentnost turističke ponude Niša, Turistička organizacija ovog grada neprestano promoviše destinaciju u zemlji i regionu i učestvuje u organizaciji brojnih događaja koji Niš postavljaju na svetsku turističku mapu. REGIJA JUGOISTOČNA SRBIJA „Na 20. niškom sajmu turizma i aktivnog odmora Turistička organizacija Niš inicirala je sastanak sa predstavnicima lokalnih turističkih organizacija radi osnivanja turističke regije Jugoistočna Srbija. Benefite od ovog udruživanja imali bi svi članovi regije - uključujući stvaranje turističkog proizvoda na nivou regije, zajedničku promotivnu kampanju na sajtovima niskobudžetnih kompanija koje su direktnim letovima iz Niša povezane sa zemljama Evrope, zajedničke nastupe na sajmovima u zemlji i regionu, izradu propagandnog materijala, mogućnost apliciranja za projekte u Ministarstvu, ali i EU fondovima. Predložio sam da, za početak, sedište regije bude u Nišu, kao ekonomskom i turističkom centru Jugoistočne Srbije. Sastanku su prisustvovali predstavnici turističkih organizacija Sokobanje, Bele Palanke, Vranja, Aleksinca, Leskovaca, Knjaževca, Bujanovca, Bojnika, Medveđe, Negotina, Zaječara, JP Stara Planina, a podršku za formiranje regije pružila nam je i Turistička organizacija Srbije. Pored prisutnih predstavnika, interesovanje su pokazale i druge turističke organizacije u regionu“, objašnjava Uroš Parlić, direktor TO Niš. CERJANSKA PEĆINA OTVORENA ZA POSETIOCE Vizitorski centar Cerjanska pećina svečano je otvoren 21. maja. To je zajednički projekat Turističke organizacije Niš, grada Sofije i Asocijacije „Love and Light“ iz Montane u Bugarskoj, u okviru „Interrerg“ IPA programa prekogranične saradnje Srbije i Bugarske. Cilj projekta je, pored ostalog, podrška razvoju održivog turizma i poboljšanje turističke infrastrukture. Prema procenama geologa pećina je stara preko 2 miliona godina. Centar je namenjen speleolozima, poklonicima adrenalinskih sportova i svim ljubiteljima prirode I opremljen je potrebnim sadržajima. Prema rečima Uroša Parlića, izgradnja Vizitorskog centra predstavlja svojevrsni kamen temeljac za dalji razvoj ovog prostora, kao i obližnjeg Kameničkog visa sa kojim će Cerjanska pećina biti povezana pešaćkim, planinarskim i biciklističkim stazama.

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Promotion of Niš in Thessaloniki, Athens and Larissa Promotion of Niš, Novi Sad

NOVI POGLED NA SIĆEVAĆKU KLISURU Nišava je usekla impozantnu klisuru između Suve planine i Svrljiških planina i stvorila raj za poklonike netaknute prirode, raftinga, alpinizma, planinarenja i paraglajdinga – na svega 14. kilometara od centra Niša. U ovom rezervatu prirode nalaze se manastiri Sveta Bogorodica i Sveta Petka Iverica, kao i hidrocentrala„Sveta Petka“ koja bez prekida radi od 1908. godine, kada je osvetlila prvu kuću u Nišu. Igrađena prema projektu Nikole Tesle i Đorđa Stanojevića, deo je turističke ture„Putevima Nikole Tesle“. Drugačiju ponudu pripremio je Dušan Smiljanić iz Udruženja rendžera čuvara zaštićenih dobara „Via militaris“, koje ima sedište u Sićevu. „Klub rendžera osnovao sam u cilju zaštite Sićevačke klisure i promocije aktivnog odmora. Sebi smo postavili zadatak da uredimo plažu u Sićevu, zatim staze do manastira, a onda da, u saradnji sa nadležnim službama, pročistimo i obeležimo rimski put koji je išao obodom klisure. Tokom leta organizovaćemo pešačke i planinarske ture i jeep safari. Dobro smo opremljeni vozilima, a naš tim čine mladi, stručni ljudi. I entuzijasti. Planiramo da postavimo jedan džip ispred Niške tvrđave – kao svojevrsni info-pult I tako zainteresujemo sve posetioce grada da upoznaju ovo prirodno blago. Imaće priliku da uživaju u lepotama klisure„iz ptičje” perspective” i verujem da će im to biti jedna od najjačih impresija koje će poneti iz Niša”.

LETO, MUZIKA, FILM … Niš se prepoznaje i kao grad festivala i manifestacija. Tokom leta održavaju se brojni muzički događaji, a najpoznatiji je, svakako, Nisville. Koncept ovog festivala zasnovan je na fuziji džeza sa etno muzikom različitih delova sveta. Nišville zato ima veliku ulogu u predstavljanju balkanske muzike kao novog muzičkog trenda. U Nišu su nastupali velikani umetničke muzike - Šaban Bajramović, Solomon Burke, Tom Harrell, Richard Galliano, Benny Golson, Randy Brecker, Miroslav Vitous, John Patitucci, Candy Dulfer, Roy Hargrove, Sly & Robbie, Mingus Dinasty, Duško Gojković … Na ovogodišnjem festivalu niškoj publici predstaviće se Maceo Parker, Malina Maye, Bob Geldof, Vlatko Stefanovski, Joe Mersa Marley… Vrhunski umetnici, ali i vrhunska publika, kako su rekli sami izvođači. Niš je jednostavno grad dobrih vibracija, pa ne čudi što je veliki broj Nišlija došao na koncert čuvenog gospel ansambla Ingramettes with Sherman Holmes, koji je održan 25. maja u amfiteatru pored Nišave. Pokrovitelj, Ambasada SAD u Srbiji, organizovala je ovaj događaj uz podršku TO Niš. Isto tako, veliko interesovanje izazvao je 6. međunаrodni festivаl horske duhovne muzike „Muzički edikt”, koji je održan u junu na Svetosavskom platou. Na svečanom zatvaranju festivala, kome su prisustvovali i ambasadori Ruske federacije i Meksika, zajednički je nastupilo 200 izvođača iz različitih zemalja, pod dirigentskom palicom maestra Bojana Suđića. Rozana Sazdić Foto: R. Sazdić, Dušan Mitić Car

Nisville jazz festival održava se od 2. do 11. avgusta na više lokacija u Tvrđavi.

Festival glumačkih ostvarenja „Filmski susreti“ organizuju se od 24. do 30. avgusta na Letnjoj pozornici niške tvrđave.

MERAKLIJSKI NIŠ Od 15. do 18. avgusta održava se gastro-manifestacija Dani Bureka. „Bogatstvo niške kuhinje potiče od njegovog geografskog položaja i kulturne raznolikosti nastale vekovnim uticajem različitih kultura. Kada kažete Niš, odmah pomislite i na niški burek koji se ovde sprema još od 1498. godine. Ova manifestacija promoviše „tradicionalni niški doručak” koji pamte posetioci našeg grada”, ističu u Turističkoj organizaciji Niša.

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Summer 2019

MUST-SEE IN NIŠ - THE SIGHTSEEING TOURs OF NIŠ FORTRESS OF NIŠ

NIŠKA TVRĐAVA

Paying a visit to the Fortress located in the center of the city next to the Nišava River is a walk through history: the attractions from the different periods of the stormy past of the City of Niš can be seen; Roman Emperor Constantin the Great was also born in this locality, the then Roman fortification. Destroyed and re-erected several times, today’s appearance of the Fortress dates back in the time of the Turks in 1723.

Obilazak Tvrđave koja se nalazi u centru grada pored reke Nišave predstavlja šetnju kroz istoriju: Mogu se videti znamenja iz različitih perioda burne prošlosti Niša, a na ovom prostoru, u nekadašnjem rimskom utvrđenju, rođen je rimski car Konstantin Veliki. Rušena i obnavljana više puta, Tvrđava današnji izgled dobija u vreme Turaka 1723. godine. Info: www.visitnis.com

Info: www.visitnis.com

Archaeological Hall and Mediana

Arheološka sala i Medijana

The exhibits at the Archaeological Hall of the National Museum are a picturesque demonstration of the civilizational development of the city. You can see the prehistorical objects found in the first settlements in this region. Roman money, charters, from the time of the Roman rule, together with ornamentation, stone icons etc. from the Dark Ages, the sculptures of Emperor Constantine and Byzantine Empress Theodora and the remains of the separation wall of the Mediana pagan temple, are exhibited. The luxuriousness of Mediana, which was a residence of Roman Emperors from time to time, is witnessed by over 1000 m2 of the floor mosaics.

Eksponati koji su izloženi u arheološkoj sali Narodnog muzeja slikovito prikazuju civilizacijski razvoj grada. Mogu se videti predmeti iz praistorije koji su nađeni u prvim naseobinama na ovom području… Iz doba vladavine Rimljana izložen je rimski novac, povelje, a iz srednjeg veka nakit, kamene ikone… Izložene su i i skulpture cara Konstantina i vizantijske carice Teodore, kao i ostaci pregrade paganskog hrama sa Medijane. O raskoši Medijane, koja je povremeno bila rezidencija rimskih careva, svedoči preko 1000 m2 podnih mozika.

Info: www.visitnis.com www.narodnimuzejnis.rs

THE SKULL TOWER AND CEGAR HILL

ČEGAR I ĆELE KULA

The monument on Cegar Hill, where a famous battle had been fought in the First Serbian Insurrection, was erected in the memory of the heroic resistance of the Serbian soldiers and their commander Stevan Sindjelić. As a reprisal for their major losses, the Turks erected the Skull Tower made of the skulls of the killed Serbian insurrectionists. The tower made of human skulls is unique in the world.

Spomenik na brdu Čegar, gde se odigrala čuvena bitka u Prvom srpskom ustanku, postavljen je u znak sećanja na herojski otpor srpskih boraca i njihovog komandanta, Stevana Sinđelića. U znak odmazde zbog velikih gubitaka, Turci su od lobanja poginulih srpskih ustanika sazidali Ćele kulu. Kula od ljudskih lobanja, jedinstvena je u svetu.

Info: w ww.visitnis.com www.narodnimuzejnis.rs

64 Summer 2019

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Info: www.visitnis.com www.narodnimuzejnis.rs

N E P R O P U S T I T I U N I Š U - R A Z G L E DA N J A N I Š A CHURCHES AND MONASTERIES

CRKVE I MANASTIRI

In the very heart of the city, there are the Cathedral Temple of Niš and a church erected in dedication to St. Archangel Michael, the Church of Holy Emperor Constantine and Empress Helena and the Church of St. Panteleimon, whereas not far away from the city, one should visit the Latin Church and the Monastery of St. John in Gornji Milanovac, the monasteries of the Holy Mother of God and St. Paraskeva of the Balkans in Sićevačka Gorge… In Niš, there are also temples of other religious communities: a mosque, a Roman catholic and an Adventist churches.

U najužem gradskom jezgru nalazi se Niški saborni hram i crkva posvećena Sv. Arhanđelu Mihailu, crkva Sv. Cara Konstantina i carice Jelene, crkva Sv. Pantelejmona, a nadomak grada treba obići Latinsku crkvu i manastir Sv. Jovan u Gornjem Matejevcu, manastire Sv. Bogorodica i Sv. Petka u Sićevaćkoj klisuri… U Nišu postoje hramovi drugih religijskih zajednica: džamija,rimokatolička i adventistička crkva.

Niška banja i okolina

Niška spa and surroundings

In the immediate vicinity of Niš, 10-20 km away from its very center, there are the landscapes of extraordinary natural values, with a plethora of possibilities for one to have an active holiday – hiking, mountaineering, biking… In the Jelašnica River Gorge, there are also rocks for free climbing; in Sićevačka Gorge – a rafting path and an airfield for paragliding; on Suva planina (Dry Mountain), there are the marked paths for mountaineering, mountain running…, and in Niška Banja Spa, you can choose spa attractions. You can also visit the Cerje Cave and the other caves and experience an exciting jeep ride in the mountains surrounding the city… Info: www.visitnis.com

U neposrednoj okolini Niša, na 10 -20 km od najužeg centra, nalaze se predeli izuzetnih prirodnih vrednosti sa brojnim mogućnostima za aktivan odmor - pešaćenje, planinarenje, vožnju bicikla… U Jelašničkoj klisuri postoje i stene za slobodno penjanje, u Sićevačkoj rafting staza i poletište za paraglajding, na Suvoj planini su obeležene staze za planinarenje, planinsko trčanje.., a u Niškoj Banji na raspolaganju su spa sadržaji. Možete posetiti Cerjansku i druge pećine, doživeti uzbudljivu vožnju džipovima na planinama u okolini grada…

A TOUR FOR HIGH-LIVERS

MERAKLIJSKA TURA

The city center is also the zone of good entertainment, a pedestrian zone, a shopping center… Numerous cafés are located in the main street, whereas also numerous pubs and the bohemian Coppersmith Alley preserve the old spirit of Niš. When in Niš, one should taste burek meat-pie, the barbecue of Niš and other gourmet delicacies, and having a good time in a pub implies the richness of tastes and a ceremonial atmosphere because “joie de vivre is priceless”.

Centar grada je i zona dobre zabave, šetalište, šoping centar… Brojni kafići nalaze se u glavnoj ulici, a stari duh Niša čuvaju isto tako brojne kafane i boemsko Kazandžijsko sokače. U Nišu treba probati burek, niški roštilj i druge gurmanluke , a provod u kafani podrazumeva bogatstvo ukusa i prazničnu atmosferu jer „merak nema cenu“ .

Info: www.visitnis.com

BelGuest

Summer 2019

I N T E R V I E W – D U Š A N K N E Ž E V I Ć

PASSENGERS IN THE FIRST PLACE The “Air-Serbia” national airline has established flights towards 12 European Destinations from the Niš Airport of “Constantine the Great” since July 15th, namely flights to the cities of Nurnberg, Frankfurt, Hanover, Friedrichshafen and Karlsruhe in Germany; to Salzburg in Austria, and to Goteborg in Sweden, and it will also have regular flights to Rome, Bologna, Budapest, Ljubljana and Tivat, which will double the number of the lines connecting Niš with Europe. “There are yet three more airlines regularly operating their flights from Niš Airport – the Hungarian low-cost company ‘Wizz Air’, whose offer includes Malmo, Basel, MemmingenWestern Munich, and Dortmund, as well as Vienna starting November 15th; the Irish lowcost airline ‘Ryanair’, offering passengers a flight to Berlin, Milano, Bratislava, Dusseldorf and Stockholm; and the national airline ‘SWISS’, operating the Niš-Zurich-Niš line. In the year 2018, we had 351,582 passengers – which is 70% more than it had been planned about thirty years ago when the terminal was being constructed,” says Dušan Knežević, acting director of “Constantine the Great” Airport. As the number of passengers increases, the terminal is becoming barely adequate? The airport opened its doors on 12th October 1986. According to the design, it was planned to let pass 100,000 passengers a year through the terminal – the airport, where there’s check-in, the customs, passport and security control, the arrival and departure gates… Starting next year already, we believe that there will be half a million passengers; that’s why we’re working on the project of the adaptation and extension of the building that could let pass a million passengers. That result may be expected bearing in mind the introduction of new lines and the general increase in the number of passengers at a global level (2-6% per annum). Do any more runways need to be built? Belgrade Airport had 5 million passengers with just one take-off and landing runway. The runway itself is not needed. What is potentially needed is the extension of our runway by 300 to 500 meters if the conditions were met for us to allow aircrafts of a larger size to land/ take off. You are a traffic engineer by profession, and you very well know how an airport works… I graduated from the Faculty of Transport and Traffic Engineering of Belgrade University, the air department, and my first employment was exactly at Niš Airport. I started working in 2012 as a ground steward. Then I was an airplane support controller, the airport shift leader, the head of the services… I’ve been lucky to have gained great experience working in different sectors. When your first workplaces are concerned, it’s not important how they rank on the hierarchical ladder, but rather if you have a chance to learn something. Niš Airport’s offer includes 22 destinations now. Do your fellow townspeople like traveling a lot? A strict separation as per territoriality, which used to exist before, is non-existent any longer. There are passengers from Belgrade, Vojvodina, Bulgaria, and Northern Macedonia, as well as other neighboring countries. Niš is easily accessible from several travelling directions and many find the prices for our tickets more affordable. We also have a large number of arrivals. The traffic is especially more intensified during the summer due to foreign tourists who come to visit Niš. Therefore, the opening of the Info-Desk of the Tourism Organization of Niš at the Airport was very important since, now, they can receive all information about accommodation, events and the tourism offer of the city immediately upon arrival. Rozana Sazdić Photo: R. Sazdić, Dušan Mitić Car

66 Summer 2019

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I N T E R VJ U – D U Š A N K N E Ž E V I Ć

P U TNI C I N A PR V O M M E S T U Od 15. jula sa niškog aerodroma “Konstantin Veliki” nacionalni avio-prevoznik „Air Serbia“ uspostavlja letove ka 12 evropskih destinacija – do gradova Nirnbеrg, Frankfurt, Hanovеr, Fridrihshafеn i Karlsruе u Nemačkoj, do Salcburga u Austriji i Gеtеborga u Švedskoj, a redovne letove imaće i do Rima, Bolonje, Budimpеštе, Ljubljane i Tivta, čime se udvostručuje broj linija koje Niš povezuju sa Evropom. „Sa niškog aerodroma redovan saobraćaj obavljaju još tri avio-prevoznika – mađarska low cost kompanija „Wizz Air“, koja u ponudi ima Malme, Bazel, Memingen-zapadni Minhen, Dortmund, a od 15. novembra i Beč, irski niskotarifni avio-prevoznik „Ryanair“ nudi putnicima let za Berlin, Milano, Bratislavu, Diseldorf i Stokholm, a nacionalna avio-kompanija „SWISS“ drži liniju Niš-CirihNiš. U 2018. imali smo 351.582 putnika - što je 70% više nego što je pre tridesetak godina planirano pri izgradnji terminala“, kaže Dušan Knežević, v.d. direktora aerodroma “Konstantin Veliki”. Sa povećanjem broja putnika terminal postaje tesan? Aerodrom je otvoren 12. oktobra 1986. godine. Projektom je planirano da kroz terminal – pristanište, gde je čekiranje, carinska, pasoška i bezbednosna kontrola, odlazeći i dolazeći gejtovi … za godinu dana prođe 100.000 putnika. Već od naredne godine verujemo da će ih biti pola miliona, pa radimo na projektu adaptacije i dogradnje zgrade koja bi mogla primiti milon putnika. Taj rezultat se može očekivati imajući u vidu uvođenje novih linija i uopšte povećanje broja putnika na globalnom nivou (2 - 6% godišnje). Da li potrebno izgraditi još neku pistu? Beogradski aerodrom je imao preko 5 miliona putnika sa jednom poletnosletnom stazom. Sama pista nije potrebna. Ono što je eventualno potrebno je produženje naše staze za 300 do 500 metara ukoliko bi se stekli uslovi da primimo veće vazduhoplove. Po zanimanju ste saobraćajni inženjer i dobro poznajete kako jedan jedan aerodrom funkcioniše… Završio sam Saobraćajni fakultet Univerziteta u Beogradu, odsek – vazdušni, i moje prvo zaposlenje je upravo bilo na niškom aerodromu. Počeo sam da radim 2012. kao zemaljski stjuard. Zatim sam bio kontrolor opsluživanja vazduhoplova, šef smene aerodroma, rukovodilac službi… Imao sam sreću što sam radeći u različitim sektorima stekao veliko iskustvo. Za prva radna mesta nije važno gde su na hijerarhijskoj lestvici, već da li ste u prilici da nešto naučite. Niški aerodrom sada ima 22 destinacije u ponudi. Da li Vaši sugrađani mnogo vole da putuju? Striktna podela po teritorijalnosti, koja je bila nekada, više ne postoji. Imamo putnike i iz Beograda, Vojvodine, Bugarske, Severne Makedonije i drugih zemalja u okruženju. Niš je lako dostupan iz više putnih pravaca i mnogima su prihvatljivije naše cene karata. Takođe, imamo i veliki broj dolazaka. Naročito je tokom leta pojačan saobraćaj zbog stranih turista koji posećuju Niš. Stoga je otvaranje info pulta Turističke organizacije Niš na aerodromu bilo veoma važno, jer oni sada mogu, odmah po dolasku, da dobiju sve informacije u vezi sa smeštajem, događajima i turističkoj ponudi grada. Rozana Sazdić Foto: R. Sazdić, Dušan Mitić Car INFO: Turistička organizacija • Tel/Fax +381 18 521 321 • www. visitnis.com BelGuest

Summer 2019

10. TOURISM FORUM OF SERBIA

IN THE SIGN OF EUROPEAN MODELS In collaboration with the TO of the City of Loznica, the National Tourism Organization of Serbia organized the Jubilee 10th Tourism Forum at the beginning of May, which took place at the renovated, glittering premises of the Kur-salon of Banja Koviljača spa. The main goal of the annual gathering of the local tourism organizations was to get to know the contemporary trends in the promotion of the tourist offer. The presence of Rasim Ljajić, the minister of tourism, made a special contribution to the reputation of this highly-attended meeting. While he was opening the Forum, the minister highlighted the significance of uniting into one single whole all individual destinations. His message to the attenders was clear: model your unique tourist product, and only after that promote it. He also pointed out the fact that, within the European frameworks, Serbia ranks the second destination as per growth. Marija Labović, the director of the NTOS, reminded the attenders of the promotional campaigns through which the NTOS contributes to the expansion of the domestic tourism industry. She stressed that it is important that we understand that “A contemporary tourist is in search for an experience, and he cares less which country he is in.” At the opening, the host’s representatives also spoke: the mayor of Loznica, Vidoje Petrović; the director of the Banja Koviljača Spa Rehabilitation Special Hospital, Aleksandar Jokić, MD ; and the director of the TO of Loznica, Snežana Perić. ADVENTURES, MEMORIES, CREATIVITY Miguel Gallego, the marketing director of the European Travel Commission, introduced to the attenders the European experiences and new promotional “tools” and topics. Following the trends of and closely analyzing the situation the European and world tourism industry is in, the accent is placed on the three thematic wholes: “Slow Adventures”, “Creative Europe”, and “Europe Remembers”. They have been devised based on the research studies saying that travelers are in search for the experiences which have strong impressions and awaken passions. Adventure tourism has been redefined and put in a new framework adapted to all age groups. The ecologically preserved places that are explored and “absorbed” quite slowly are in focus. WITH THE STEP OF A SNAIL A more detailed concept of the new approach to adventure tourism was presented by Sara Bellshaw, the project manager of the Scottish West Highland College, and her associate form Novi Sad, Jelena Farkić – a holder of the PhD degree in tourismology. Europe has become home to a new movement of the lovers of “slow adventures”; travelers are hungry for establishing far deeper, personal liaisons with their hosts and their local traditions. The most important thing is that a traveler does not need to hurry, that he/she experiences things in an absolutely natural and relaxed way, emphasized these lecturers. Jelena Farkić demonstrated a successful example of such a slow adventure from Scotland and emphasized that Serbia is a God-given country for this type of tourism. A very nice and impressive logo of this tourism “brand” – a blue, smiling snail – was also presented.

68 Summer 2019

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The famous Kur-Salon of Banja Koviljača

Miguel Gallego

Sara Bellshaw

SPLENDOR OF BANJA KOVILJAČA SPA The Forum venue was carefully selected: “In this way, too, we wanted to support the promotion of Banja Koviljača spa. It’s one of the nice examples of the revitalization of the architectural heritage and its harmonious fitting in with the requirements of contemporary medical and spa tourism. It was particularly important to us that the meeting should be held in the renovated edifice of the Kur Salon, which not only this region, but the whole of Serbia can take pride in”, said Olgica Miljković, PhD, a manager for the Serbian market and the main coordinator of the Forum. The Kur-Salon’s “King Alexander” Hall used to be a Ball-Hall, whereas today it is a multifunctional space, where both conferences and celebrations are held. We were more than pleased when we saw the perfectly laid tables, with starched napkins, the candlesticks and the enormously hospitable personnel. Forum opening, Marija Labović

LOZNICA’S CIRCLE OF SIGHTS The tours of the destinations which are part of the city’s tourist offer were organized for all the present representatives of the media. In the first place – it is Tršić, the village where our famous philologist Vuk Karadžić was born. This typical village of the Jadar region has in a large part been preserved for generations to come. The ambience exudes the spirit of folk architecture; there are Vuk’s memorial home and the amphitheater where “Vuk’s Gathering”, the biggest educational event in the country. The spirit of the man who left his nation a huge heritage and a simple linguistic formula: “Write as you speak, and read as it is written” is present everywhere. The wooden boards reflect the written-down folk wisdoms he had been collecting all his life. We are accommodated in the newly-opened Educational-Cultural Center “Vuk Karadžić”. Everything inside is modern – from the congress halls, via the rooms and the internet corners, to the restaurant. This, too, is a nice example of the harmonious liaison between tradition and the requirements of nowadays. ZORAN’S HEARTWARMING STORY Just as we had been told at lectures that when traveling man needs to experience his personal contact with his hosts, we were lucky to exactly experience one such impressive experience. Our guide was Zoran Despotović, who “gave color” to all the places we visited with his beautiful, heartwarming stories. In the monastery of Tronoša, he was telling us about the history of the monastery, and also about the childhood adventures of Vuk Karadžić, who had been brought to literacy here. Vuk had tried to circumvent the monastery’s “daily obligations” since they distracted him from learning, so he quickly ran away from there. Zoran is not only an excellent storyteller, he is also a rock singer. With songs and in lively conversations we were listening to his testimony to the healing powers of the mud bath; we visited the ethno-village of “The Sunny River” on the riverbank of the Danube, the museum of Jadar and the Tourist Information Center in Loznica. Unfortunately, due to heavy rain, we did not go to the Memorial Mausoleum at the top of Gučevo, where the Serbian and Austrian-Hungarian warriors who had lost their lives during the battles lasting for two months in the autumn of 1914 lie, but Zoran told us touching stories about one of the first trench battles in the world: “The confronted armies were dug in and hardly ten meters or so away from each other. Convinced that they would win, the Austrian-Hungarians began to build a memorial for their killed soldiers, but ultimately their eagle was replaced with our two-headed eagle.” Milena Mihaljčić Photo by Rozana Sazdić & TO of Loznica

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Summer 2019

10. TURISTIČKI FORUM SRBIJE

U ZNAKU EVROPSKIH MODELA Turistička organizacija Srbije, u saradnji sa TO grada Loznice, organizovala je početkom maja jubilarni 10. Turistički forum koji se održao u renoviranom, blistavom prostoru Kur salona Banje Koviljače. Osnovni cilj godišnjeg okupljanja lokalnih turističkih organizacija bilo je upoznavanja sa savremenim trendovima u u promociji turističke ponude. Renomeu ovog, po brojnosti velikog skupa posebno je doprinelo prisustvo Rasima Ljajića, ministra turizma. Otvarajući Forum, naglasio je značaj objedinjavanja pojedinačnih destinacija u jednu celinu. Negova poruka prisutnima bila je jasna: oblikujete jedinstven turistički proizvod, pa ga tek potom promovište. Istakao je i da je Srbija u evropskim okvirima drugoplasirana destinacija po rastu. Marija Labović, direktorka TOS-a, podsetila je prisutne na promotivne kampanje preko kojih TOS doprinosi ekspanziji domaće turističke industrije. Naglasila je i da je važno shvatiti da je:.„Savremeni turista u potrazi za doživljajem i manje mu je važno u kojoj se zemlji nalazi”. Na otvaranju su govorili i predstavnici domaćina: gradonačelnik Loznice Vidoje Petrović, direktor Specijalne bolnice za rehabilitaciju Banja Koviljača dr Aleksandar Jokić i direktorka TO Loznica Snežana Perić. AVANTURE, SEĆANJA, STVARALAŠTVO Sa evropskim iskustvima i novim promotivnim„alatima“ i temama prisutne je upoznao Miguel Gallego, direktor marketinga evropske turističke komisije. Prateći trendove i pomno analizirajući stanje u turističkoj industriji Evrope i sveta, akcenat je stavljen na tri tematske celine: „Spore avanture“, „Kreativna Evropa“ i „Evropa pamti“. One su osmišljene na osnovu istraživanja koje govore da su putnici u potrazi za iskustvima koje nose snažne utiske i bude strasti. Avanturistički turizam je redefinisan i stavljen u novi okvir prilagođen svim uzrasnim grupama. U fokusu su ekološki očuvana mesta koje su istražuju i„upijaju“ sasvim lagano. PUŽEVIM KORAKOM Detaljniji koncept novog pristupa avanturističkom turizmu predstavile su Sara Bellshaw, projekt menadžera sa škotskog West Highland koledža i njena saradica Jelene Farkić – doktor turizmologije iz Novog Sada. Evropa je postala dom novog pokreta ljubitelja „sporih avanatura“; putnici su željni stvaranja daleko dubljih, ličnih veza sa domaćinima i njihovim lokalnim tradicijama. A ono najbitnije jeste da putnik nigde ne mora da žuri, da sva iskustva doživljava na sasvim prirodan i opušten način, naglasile su predavačice. Jelena Farkić je prikazala jedan uspešan primer spore avanture iz Škotske i naglasila da je Srbija bogomdana zemlja za ovaj tip turizma. Prezentovan je i veoma simpatičan i upečatljiv znak ovog turističkog „brenda“ – plavi, nasmejani pužić.

70 Summer 2019

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SJAJ BANJE KOVILJAČE Mesto održavanja Foruma pažljivo je odabrano: „Želeli smo da i na ovaj način podržimo promociju Banje Koviljače. Ona je jedan od lepih primera revitalizacije arhitektonskog nasleđe i njenog skladnog uklapanja sa zahtevima savremenog medicinskog i banjskog turizma. Naročito nam je bilo važno da skup održimo u obnovljenom zdanju Kur salona, kojim se može ponositi, ne samo ovaj kraj, veći čitava Srbije“, rekla nam je Dr Olgica Miljković, menadžer za tržište Srbije i glavni koordinator Foruma. Sala „Kralj Aleksandar“ u Kur salonu nekada je bila balska dvorana, a danas je multifunkcionalni prostor u kome se održavaju i konferencije i svetkovine. Bilo nam je više nego prijatno kada smo videli savršeno postavljene stolove, sa uštirkanim salvetama, svećnjacima i beskrajno ljubaznim personalom. LOZNIČKI KRUG ZNAMENITOSTI Za sve prisutne predstavnike medija upriličeni su obilasci destinacija koji su deo turističke ponude grada. Na prvom mestu to je Tršić, selo u kojem se rodio naš slavni jezikoslovac Vuk Karadžić. Ovo tipično jadarsko selo je dobrim delom sačuvano za buduće naraštaje. Ambijent odiše duhom narodnog graditeljstva, tu je Vukova spomen-kuća i amfiteatatar gde se održava „Vukov sabor“, najveća prosvetna manifestacija u zemlji. Duh čoveka koji je svom narodu ostavio ogromno nasleđe i jednostavnu jezičku formulu: „Piši kao što govoriš, čitaj kao što je napisano“, svuda je prisutan. Na drvenim tablama ispisane su narodne mudrosti koje je čitav život sakupljao. Smešteni smo u novotvorenom Obrazovno-kulturnom centru „Vuk Karadžić“. Unutra je sve savremeno – od kongresnih sala, preko soba, internet kutaka do restorana. I ovo je jedan lep primer skladnog povezivanja tradicije i zahteva današnjice. ZORANOVA TOPLA PRIČA Baš kao što su nam na predavanjima pričali da je čoveku potrebno da na putovanju doživi lični kontakt s domaćinima, imali smo sreću da upravo doživimo jedno takvo, upečetljivo iskustvo. Vodič nam je bio Zoran Despotović koji je sva mesta koje smo obišli „obojio“ svojim divnim, toplim pričama. U manastiru Tronoša nam je pripovedao o njegovoj istoriji, ali i o zgodama iz detinjstva Vuka Karadžića koje se ovde opismenio. Vuk se trudio da zaobiđe manastirska „poslušanja“ jer su ga odvlačila od učenja i brzo je odavde utekao. Zoran nije samo vrsan pripovedač već i rok pevač. Uz pesme i žive razgovore saslušali smo njegovo svedočenje o isceliteljskim moćima blatnog kupatila, obišli smo etnoselo „Sunčana reka“ na obali Drine, muzej Jadra i Turističi informativi centar u Loznici. Nažalost, zbog jake kiše nismo otišli do Spomen-kosturnica na vrhu Gučeva gde počivaju srpski i austrougarski ratnici izginuli tokom dvomesečnih borbi u jesen 1914. godine, ali nam je Zoran ispričao dirljive priče o jednoj od prvih rovovskih bitki na svetu: „Suprotstavljene vojske bile su ukopane i jedna od druge udaljena na jedva desetak metra. Ubeđeni u pobedu, Austrougari su počeli da grade spomen obeležje za svoje izginule ali je na kraju njihov orao zamenjen našim dvoglavim orlom.“ Milena Mihaljčić Foto:Rozana Sazdić i TO Loznica

The mud bath of King Peter the First

Tronoša Monastery

Zoran Despotović (in the middle) with a group of journalists in Tršić

'Vuk Karadžić' educational-cultural center

NTOS RECOMMENDS: AC TIVE REST IN SERBIA

FROM LOWLANDS TO CRAGGY AREAS “Situated where vast plains and afforested mountains meet, Serbia invites you to discover it: from its wild wetland forests along the Danube to the tame lowlands as wide as a sea; from the breathtaking canyons to medicinal spas and springs; from the gentle hills to the wind-whipped summits; from hectic urban centers to the tranquility of remote mountain villages,” wrote Milja and Ivan Vuković, the authors of the TOS publication entitled “Hiking and Cycling”. Anyone who wishes at one moment to discover Serbia either by hiking or riding a bike will find all the important pieces of information in this well-thought out and precisely arranged guidebook: the difficulty of the trail, the time needed to conquer it, the type of the surface, the altitude differences from the start to the finish, as well as the signs of the features of interest and the gastronomic singularities on the route. We are presenting to you an abbreviated, edited version of this useful publication which inspires people to set on a journey through the beautiful landscapes of our country.

Photo: Stefan Lukić

INTERNATIONAL ROUTES – EUROVELO 6 & 13 Eurovelo 6 connects the Atlantic Ocean and the Black Sea, and passes through Serbia following the river course of the Danube. The flooded wetland forests of the Bačko Podunavlje (Bač Danube Basin) Biosphere Reserve, officially inscribed on the UNESCO List, is a home to a rich living world. The route goes along the left riverbank of the Danube and first reaches Novi Sad, after which it leads to Belgrade. At the final section of the route, nature and history leave an indelible impression: as you pass through the National Park at the Đerdap Gorge, the largest and the longest gorge in Europe, you may see the valuable cultural heritage – the Neolithic locality of Lepenski Vir (the Lepen Whirl), Trajan’s Tablet, and the mediaeval Fortress of Golubac. The Eurovelo 13 route passes along the imaginary boundary between the former socialist countries and Western countries. Compared with the states “behind the Iron Curtain”, as part of the then Yugoslavia, Serbia had a neutral position. The route starts in the lowlands, only to start climbing the magnificently beautiful mountains, passing through the mountainous landscapes and the Đerdap Gorge. The route connects the multicultural Pannonian North, the cities of Subotica and Kikinda, with the mysterious East of Serbia – a picturesque small town of Knjaževac and the fiery city of Niš, a bustling and hospitable urban center of the South.

ROUTES OF ĐERDAP NATIONAL PARK In addition to these international routes, you may“divert”to the expanses of the Đerdap National Park. Its plant life is extremely rich and includes a whole series of relict and protected species. This is also the habitat of large predators: the brown bear, the Balkan lynx, the wolf, the jackal, as well as diverse bird species. There are four recommended routes leading to the belvederes of Ploče, Kovilovo, and Mali Štrbac, as well as the educative trail “Golden Lake”. At the very entrance to Đerdap, there is also Labudovo Okno (The Swan’s Hole) – the largest winter resort for waterbirds in Europe, which is therefore an attractive destination for the lovers of bird spotting.

BELGRADE AND ITS SURROUNDINGS There are a plethora of historical layers and exciting urban attractions distinguishing Serbia’s capital at the confluence of the Sava and the Danube, at the border dividing the East from the West. Belgrade is also a city of bikers, with its 60 or so kilometers of purposefully designed trails. We single out the two of a large number of possible routes: the one leading through Košutnjak – the most afforested part of Belgrade, and there is also the nearby mountain of Avala, where you can visit the Monument to the Unknown Hero and the Television Tower, whose belvedere offers a view of all the four directions of Serbia. Aranđelovac town, with its Bukulja Mount, is located in the vicinity of Belgrade. The trail leads from downtown towards the top of the mountain, where there is a vantage point from which gives a panoramic view of the whole region of Šumadija. PANNONIAN TRAILS AND FRUŠKA GORA Srem, Banat and Bačka are the regions that make up Vojvodina. Subotica – a city recognizable for its secessionist architecture – lies in the North. The recommended trail leads through the Subotica Sands, which is also an interesting area for bird-spotting. The small settlement of Slankamen, named after a spring of salty medicinal water, situated itself in Srem, on the riverbank of the Danube. Old Slankamen’s two trails offer a fascinating view of the Danube. In the extreme east of Banat, there are the highest summit of Vojvodina – The Summit of Gudurica, and the city of Vršac beneath it. There is a signposted trail leading towards this peak which offers a beautiful view. The National Park of Fruška Gora Mount, elevated above the Danube, connects the noble tranquility of the nature and the secluded monastic life with the fertility and deliciousness of the wine-growing hills and orchards. The forests are intersected by the soft trails leading to unexpected belvederes. Over 700 species of medicinal herbs grow on this mountain famous for its quality linden honey, as well as exquisite wines. There are as many as 16 orthodox monasteries erected on the slopes of Fruška Gora Mount. Out of the networked trails of Fruška Gora, we mention the Stražilovo–Grgeteg Monastery trail, the trail connecting the monasteries of Old and New Hopovo, as well as the trails of Vrdnik Banja Spa. In the immediate vicinity of the isolated peacefulness of the National Park, there are the blooming bustling cities of Novi Sad, Sremski Karlovac, and Sremska Mitrovica.

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Kladovo, Eurovelo6 Suva planina, photo

VALJEVO MOUNTAIN RANGE AND RAJAC With its undulating terrain and thick forests, the region of Valjevo is interspersed with plum orchards and raspberry farms. The Gradac mountain river meanders through it as a backbone. The hills around Valjevo are home to the monasteries of Pustinja (A Desert), Ćelije (The Cells) and Lelić. The urban heart of the city of Valjevo with its colorful old town marketplace of Tešnjar, as well as the memorial complex of Brankovina, are but a few places worthy of seeing. The trails leading through River Gradac Gorge, as well as those leading to the peaks of Mt. Divčibare, are recommended. Rajac is a mountain in the close vicinity of the towns of Ljig and Gornji Milanovac. It is known for its spacious meadows like a green sea and for Scything on Mt. Rajac, an international scything competition. It is also interesting to visit the towns of Takovo and Topola in the neighborhood of Rajac as the historical places telling a story of the Karađorđević and Obrenović dynasties, Banja Vrujci Spa, as well as the monasteries of Vraćevšnica and Bogovađa. Out of the signposted trails, the routes Suvobor-Divčibare, RajacMountaineers’ Home and Takovo-Mountaineers’ Home are recommended. Mt. TARA AND MOKRA GORA The “Tara” National Park offers a large number of the possibilities of active rest. Over a thousand different plant species, also including the protected Serbian spruce endemic species (discovered by Pančić), grow on this mountain. The coniferous forests of Tara are among the best-preserved in Europe and they are home to the large population of the largest European mammal – the brown bear. After trekking through the magnificent forests and visiting the mountain’s belvederes, whose amazing views will engrave indelible memories in your mind, you can descend to the beautiful river Drina or the lake of Perućac. Tara is networked by mountain and mount-biking trails. The routes Kaluđerske Bare-Zborište-Rača Monastery, the trail leading to one of the most beautiful peaks of Mt. Tara – Zborište (The Gathering Place), as well as the other routes leading to Predov Krst (Predo’s Cross)– the heart of the National Park, the attractive belvedere Banjska Stena (The Spa Rock), and many other hidden corners, are recommended. Mt. Mokra Gora (Wet Mountain), known for its “Šargan Eight” heritage railway, as well as for “Drvengrad” (Timber Town), a tourist resort settlement constructed by a famous film director Emir Kusturica, leans against Mt. Tara. The recommended trail will reveal to you the Šargan Saddle in a completely new light. You will be enchanted by the unreal landscape and belvederes.

Stara planina

Photo: Stefan Lukić

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Mt. ZLATIBOR AND UVAC RIVER The spacious glades of the gently undulating plateau of Mt. Zlatibor simply beckon you to stroll. This is the place where sea and mountain air meet, and the whole Mt. Zlabitor is an air spa at the same time. The grazing lands and meadows are intersected by springs. The Tornik SkiCenter offers various attractions throughout the year. The traditional houses of this region are log cabins, and the most beautiful examples of old Zlatibor houses, dairies and granaries have been relocated to a unique open-air museum of “Staro selo” (“The Old Village”) in Sirogojno village. A special recommendation is given for the following four Zlatibor routes: “Spomenik” (Memorial Site), the “Čigota” Trail, “Mali Semegnjevski krug” (Small Semegnjevo Circle), as well as an almost 50-km long route connecting the mountains of Zlatibor and Tara. The mountain river Uvac runs from Zlatar to Zlatibor, first through a series of spectacular meanders, only to then form several lakes. If you like excitements, you can descend from the heights into mysterious underground and visit Ušačka and Ledena (Ice-cold) caves, or watch the flight of griffon vultures. Of the trails, we make a particular mention of the most attractive route leading to the “Molitva” (Prayer) belvedere. Apart from the miraculously undulated meanders of the Uvac River, the waterfalls of the Sopotnica River, the rapids of the Lim River, the canyon of the Mileševka River… are also attractive. The nearby mountain of Zlatar is located where the Mediterranean and mountain air flows meet and has a record number of sunny days in a year. Apart from Nova Varoš located in the heart of Zlatar, there are also the towns of Priboj and Prijepolje in the neighborhood. When in Prijepolje, do not miss to pay a visit to the mediaeval monastery of Mileševa and see the famous White Angel fresco.

OVČAR & KABLAR MOUNTAINS AND DRAGAČEVO Wedged in-between the mountains of Ovčar and Kablar, the Western Morava River cut a spectacular through them. In this mountainous landscape, as many as nine monasteries are “hidden”. The monasteries of the Ovčar-Kablar Gorge have for so many centuries been harmoniously coexisting with the landscape and are the places of pilgrimage. The trekking and biking trails leading to the summits of Mt. Ovčar and Mt. Kablar all the way to Mt. Jelica pass through the thick forests and through the fields and orchards as well. As many as five routes are recommended: the one leading to the belvedere at the top of Mt. Kablar offering an unforgettable view of the meanders of the Western Morava; then there is the one ascending the mountains of Ovčar and Jelica, as well as a few “colorful” routes leading through the landscapes of Mt. Jelica.

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The Gradac River Gorge, photo: Nemanja Nešković

Jelica Mount, Ovčar-Kablar Gorge, photo: Stefan Lukić

KOPAONIK Throughout the year, the Kopaonik Natoinal Park offers a broad range of attractions. In the summer, you can take up horse-riding, paragliding, or archery, see the rapids and the canyon of the Samokovka river or the Jelovarnik waterfall, pick medicinal herbs and wild blueberries… In the winter, Kopaonik becomes Serbia’s most visited ski-center. The long hiking trails, passing across the meadows and the forests, lead to the places of unusual names: Nebeske stolice (Heavenly Chairs), Oštro koplje (Sharp Spear), Suvo rudište (Dry Ore Shoot), Debela glava (Fat Head). The recommended three Kopaonik trails are named Borje – the red, orange and green variants of the trail. If you happen to tread these paths, you will have a beautiful view of the summits of Kopaonik throughout your stroll. Do not miss refreshing at the thermal springs of the nearby Jošanička Banja Spa, or a visit to the mediaeval monastery of Studenica, under UNESCO protection, either. RADAN MOUNTAIN Nature has created a series of the phenomena on Mt. Radan before which we stay amazed: an imposing number of thermal medicinal springs and unique forms of the relief. Đavolaj Varoš (Devil’s Town) is located here: in a steep crevice, visitors are greeted by 202 high-reaching earth pillars that look like the people wearing “caps”. They were created in a millennial erosion process. Medicinal waters spring from the depths of Mt. Radan, so Prolom Banja, Lukovska Banja – with almost 40 thermal springs – and Sijarinska Banja spas, in which water springs onto the surface geysering upwards, were built here. There is an offer of four routes in Prolom Banja spa: the “Panorama” trail, the “Waters of Radan” trail, the “Tradition and Crafts” trail, and the “Legend” trail. Do not miss to visit the Empress’s Town – an architectural endeavor of the Byzantine Emperor Justinian I, or a visit to the Pločnik locality – the largest metallurgy center of the Neolithic Vinča Culture. MOUNTAIN BEAUTIES OF THE EAST AND THE SOUTH The mountains of Rtanj, Suva (Dry) and Stara (Old) mountains rise above Eastern and Southern Serbia. The natural diversity characteristic of the Dry and Old mountains is a real jewel, and these regions are also recognized as internationally significant for the protection of birds, insects and plants. Both their clean air and their clean water are among the precious characteristics of this region. You can enjoy the “Old Mountain” modern ski-center or indulge in the beneficial effect of water and air in Sokobanja and Niška Banja spas. The city centers of Niš, Knjaževac, Pirot, Sokobanja offer a range of the possibilities of learning about the cultural heritage of the region: the Mediana ancient locality in Niš and Felix Romuliana in the vicinity of Zaječar, which is inscribed on the UNESCO list are but a segment of the valuable heritage of this region. The recommended routes out of the existing ones are the trail leading to Midžor – the highest mountain peak in Serbia, and the trail leading to the top of Mt. Rtanj – a mystic mountain of the pyramidal form, as well as the trail in the Dry Mountain which is called “Uspon na Trem” (Ascent of the Colonnade), named after the highest peak. Adapted based on the text by Milja i Ivan Vuković Photo by: National Tourism Organization of Serbia

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TOS PREPORUČUJE: AKTIVNI ODMOR U SRBIJI

O D RAV N ICE DO VRL ETI „Smeštena na mestu susreta velike ravnice i šumovitih planina, Srbija poziva u otkrivanje: od divljih ritskih šuma na Dunavu do pitome ravnice široke kao more, od uzbudljivih kanjona do lekovitih banja i izvora, od mekih pobrđa do vrhova šibanih vetrom, od zahuktalosti urbanih centara do tišine dalekih planinskih sela”, zapisali su Milja i Ivan Vuković, autori TOS-ove publikacije „Pešačenje i biciklizam”.

U ovom dobro osmišljenom i precizno uređenom vodiču, svako ko poželi da istraži Srbiju pešečeći ili vozeći bicikl, pronaći će sve bitne podatke: težinu staze, vreme potrebno da se ona savlada, vrstu podloge, visinske razlike od početnog do krajnjeg odredišta, kao i naznakeo znamenitostima i gastronomskim posebnostima koje se nalaze na ruti. Prenosimo vam skraćenu, redigovanu verziju ove korisne publikacije koja inspiriše na putovanje kroz lepe predele naše zemlje. MEĐUNARODNE RUTE – EUROVELO 6 I 13 Eurovelo 6 spaja Atlantski okean i Crno more, a kroz Srbiju prolazi prateći tok Dunava. Ritske plavne šume Rezervata biosfere Bačko Podunavlje, koji je upisan na listu Uneska, dom je raskošnom živom svetu. Ruta prati levu obalu Dunava

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i najpre stiže u Novi Sad, a potom vodi do Beograda. Na poslednjoj deonici, priroda i istorija ostavljaju upečatljiv utisak: prolazeći kroz Nacionalni park u Đerdapskoj klisuri, najvećoj i najdužoj klisuri Evrope, možete videti vredno kulturno nasleđe – neolitski lokalitet Lepenski vir, Trajanovu tablu i srednjovekovnu Golubačku tvrđavu. Ruta Eurovelo 13 prolazi duž zamišljene granice između nekadašnjih socijalističkih i zapadnih zemalja. U odnosu na države „iza gvozdene zavese” Srbija je, kao deo Jugoslavije, imala neutralan položaj. Trasa počinje u ravnici, a zatim se kroz brdovite predele i Đerdapsku klisuru, penje u prelepe planine. Ova ruta spaja multikulturalan sever Panonije, gradove Suboticu i Kikindu s tajanstvenim Istokom Srbije – pitoresknom varošicom Knjaževac i temperamentnim Nišem, živim i gostoljubivim urbanim centrom Juga.

STAZE NACIONALNOG PARKA ĐERDAP Kao dodatni deo, sa ovih međunarodnih ruta može se „skrenuti” u prostranstva Nacionalnog parka Đerdap. Njegov biljni svet je prebogat i obuhvata čitav niz reliktnih i zaštićenih vrsta. Ovde su nastanjeni i veliki predatori: mrki medved, balkanski ris, vuk, šakal, kao i raznovrsne vrste ptica. Postoje četiri preporučene rute koje vode do vidikovaca Ploče, Kovilovo i Mali Štrbac, kao i edukativna staza„Zlatno jezero”. Na samom ulazu u Đerdap nalazi se i Labudovo okno – najveće zimovalište vodenih ptica u Evropi i stoga privlačna destinacija za ljubitelje posmatranje ptica.

BEOGRAD I OKOLINA Na ušću Save u Dunav, na granici Istoka i Zapada, srpska prestonica ima mnoštvo istorijskih slojeva i uzbudljiivih urbanih sadržaja. Beograd je i grad biciklista sa šezdesetak kilometara posebno projektovanih staza. Od velikog broja mogućih ruta izdvojene su dve: jedna vodi kroz Košutnjak – najšumovitiji deo Beograda, a tu je i obližnja planina Avala gde ćete videte Spomenik neznanom junaku i TV toranj s čijeg vidikovca„puca pogled” na sve četiri strane Srbije. U blizini Beograda nalazi se Aranđelovac sa planinom Bukuljom. Staza vodi od centra grada ka vrhu planine gde je podignuta osmatračnice s koje se pruža panoramski pogled na čitavu oblast Šumadije.

Belgrade on the Eurovelo6 Route

The Sands of Subotica

PANONSKE STAZE I FRUŠKA GORA Srem, Banat i Bačka su oblasti koji sačinjavaju Vojvodinu. Na severu Bačke je Subotica – grad prepoznatljiv po secesijskoj arhitekturi. Preporučena staza vodi kroz Subotičku peščaru koja je i zanimljivo područje za posmatranje ptica. U Sremu, na obali Dunava, smestilo se malo naselje Slankamen koje je ime dobilo po izvoru slane lekovite vode. Dve staze Starog Slankamena pružaju fascinantan pogled na Dunav. Na krajnjem istoku Banata je najviši vrh Vojvodine, Gudurički vrh, i pod njim – grad Vršac. Postoji obeleženu staza koja vodi ka ovom vrhu odakle se pruža divan pogled. Nacionalni park Fruška gora, uzdignut nad Dunavom, spaja blagorodni mir prirode i povučenog manastirskog života s plodnošću i slašću vinogorja i voćnjaka. Šume su ispresecane mekim stazama koje izlaze na neočekivane vidikovce. Preko 700 vrsta lekovitog bilja raste na ovoj planini koja je čuvena po kvalitetnom lipovom medu, kao i vrhunskim vinima. Na obroncima Fruške gore podignuto je čak 16 pravoslavnih manastira. Od razgranate mreže fruškogorskih staza izdvojene su Stražilovo – manastir Grgeteg, staza koja povezuje manastire Staro i Novo Hopovo, kao i staze Banje Vrdnik. U neposrednoj blizini izolovanog mira Nacionalnog parka cvetaju žive gradske sredine – Novi Sad, Sremski Karlovci i Sremska Mitrovica.

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Summer 2019

VALJEVSKE PLANINE I RAJAC Zatalasan i šumovit, valjevski kraj prošaran je šljivicima i malinjacima. Kao kičma, kroz njega krivuda bistra planinska reka Gradac. Među brdima u okolini Valjeva smestili su se manastiri Pustinja, Ćelije, Lelić. Urbano jezgro grada Valjeva sa živopisnom starom čaršijom Tešnjar, kao i spomen-komplek Brankovina, tek su neka od mesta koje vredi obići. Preporučene su staze koje vode kroz klisuru reke Gradac, potom i staze koja vode do vrhova Divčibara. Rajac je planina nadomak Ljiga i Gornjeg Milanovca. Poznat je po prostranim livadama, poput zelenog mora i po Kosidbi na Rajcu, međunarodnom takmičenju kosaca. U okolini Rajca zanimljivo je posetiti Takovo i Topolu, istorijska mesta koja pripovedaju o dinastijama Karađorđević i Obrenović, Banju Vrujci, kao i manastire Vraćevšnicu i Bogovađu. Od obeleženih staza preporučene su rute Suvobor – Divčibare, Rajac - Planinarski dom i Takovo - Planinarski dom. TARA I MOKRA GORA Nacionalni park Tara nudi mnoštvo mogućnosti za odmor u pokretu. Na planini raste preko hiljadu različitih biljnih vrsta, među njima i zaštićena endemska vrsta – Pančićeva omorika. Četinarske šume Tare spadaju među najočuvanije u Evropi. U njima živi i brojna zajednica najvećeg evropskog sisara – mrkog medveda. Kad se prošetate veličanstvenim šumama i obiđete planinske vidikovce, čiji će vam se zadivljujući pogledi urezati u sećanje, možete se spustiti do lepotice Drine ili do jezera Perućac. Tara je premrežena planinarskim i mountbiking stazama. Preporučuju se rute Kaluđerske bare – Zborište – manastir Rača, staza koja vodi ka jednom od najlepših vrhova Tare – Zborištu, a tu su su druge rute koje vode do Predovog krsta – srca Nacionalnog parka, atraktivnoog vidikovca Banjska stena i mnogih drugih skirvenih kutaka. Na Taru je „naslonjena” Mokra Gora, poznata po muzejskoj železnici „Šarganskoj osmici”, kao i „Drvengradu”, turističkom naselju slavnog filmskog reditelja Emira Kusturice. Preporučena staza otkriće vam prevoj Šargana u potpuno novom svetlu. Bićete očarani nestvarnim krajlolikom i vidikovcima. ZLATIBOR I UVAC Prostrani proplanci blago zatalasane zlatiborske visoravni naprosto pozivaju na šetnje. Na ovom mestu susreću se morski i planinski vazduh, te je čitav Zlatibor ujedno i vazdušna banja. Pašnjaci i livade ispresecani su potocima. Ski-centar Tornik tokom cele godine nudi različite sadržaje. Tradicionalne kuće ovog kraja su brvnare, a najlepši primerci starih zlatiborskih kuća i ekonomskih objekata, premeštene su u jedinstveni Muzej na otvorenom „Staro selo” u Sirogojnu. Posebno su preporučene četiri zlatiborske rute koje se zovu:„Spomenik”, staza„Čigota”,„Mali Semegnjevski krug”, kao i gotovo pedest kilometara duga trasa koja povezuje Zlatibor i Taru. Planinska reka Uvac teče od Zlatara do Zlatibora, prvo kroz niz spektakularnih meandara, a zatim formira i nekoliko jezera. Ako volite uzbuđenja, s visina se možete spustiti u tajnovito podzemlje i posetiti i Ušačku i Ledenu pećinu ili posmatrati let beloglavih supova. Od staza, izdvojene je najatraktivnija ruta koja vodi do vidikovca„Molitva”. Osim čudesno izuvijanih meandara Uvca, atraktivni su i slapovi Sopotnice, brzaci Lima, kanjon Mileševke... Obližnja planina Zlatar nalazi se na mestu susreta mediteranskih i planinskih vazdušnih struja i ima rekordan broj sunčanih dana ugodini. Osim Nove Varoši koja se nalazi u srcu Zlatara, u blizini su i Priboj i Prijepolje. Ne propustite da u Prijepolju posetite srednjovekovni manastir Mileševu i vidite slavnu fresku Belog anđela.

80 Summer 2019

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Photo: Stefan Lukić

Mountains of Valjevo

OVČAR-KABLAR I DRAGAČEVO Među planinama Ovčar i Kablar, Zapadna Morava je usekla spektakularanu klisuru. U ovom planinskom kraju „skriveno” je čak devet manastira. Manastiri Ovčarskokablarske klisure dugi niz vekova u skladnoj su zajednici s krajolikom i predstavljaju mesta hodočašća. Pešačke i biciklističke staze do vrhova Ovčara i Kablara, pa sve do planine Jelice, prolaze kroz guste šume ali i kroz polja i voćnjaka. Preporučeno je čak pet ruta: ona koja vodi do vidikovca na vrhu Kablara odakle se pruža nezaboravan pogled na meandre Zapadne Morave, potom uspon na planine Ovčar i Jelicu i nekoliko “raznobojnih” ruta koji vode kroz predele planine Jelice.

The summit of Kablar Mount, photo: Stefan Lukić

RADAN PLANINA Na planini Radan priroda je stvorila niz pojava pred kojima ostajemo začuđeni: impozantan broj termalnih lekovitih izvora i jedinstvene oblike reljefa. Ovde se nalazi Đavolja varoš: u strmom useku posetioce dočekuju dve stotine i dva visoka zemljana stuba koji nalikuju na ljude koji nose „kape“. Nastali su milenijumskim procesom erozije. Iz dubina Radana izviru lekovite vode, pa su na ovim izvorima podignute Prolom banja, Lukovska banja – s bezmalo 40 termalnih izvora - i Sijarinska banja u kojoj voda na površinu izlazi u visokom gejziru. U Prolom banji u ponudi su četiri rute: staza „Panorama“, staza „Radanskih voda“, staza „Tradicija i zanati” i staza „Legende“. Ne treba propustiti posetu Caričinom gradu – arhitektonskom poduhvatu vizantijskog cara Justinijana I, kao ni posetu lokalitetu Pločnik najvećem metalurškom centru neolitske vinčanske kulture. PLANINSKE LEPOTICE ISTOKA I JUGA Rtanj, Suva i Stara planina uzdižu se nad istočnom i južnom Srbijom. Prirodna raznolikost Suve i Stare planine pravi je dragulji, a ove oblasti prepoznate su i kao međunarodno značajne za zaštitu ptica, insekata i bilja. I čist vazduh i čista voda spadaju u dragocenosti ovog kraja. Moguće je uživati u modernom ski-centru Stara planina ili se prepustiti blagotvornom dejstvu vode i vazduha u Sokobanji i Niškoj banji. Gradski centri – Niš, Knjaževac, Pirot, Sokobanja – nude niz mogućnost za upoznavanje s kulturnom baštinom regije: antički lokalitet Mediana u Nišu i Felix Romuliane kraj Zaječara koja je upisana na listu Uneska, tek su deo vrednog nasleđa ovog kraja. Od ruta, preporučena je staza koja vodi do Midžora - najvišeg vrha Srbije. Izvojene je i staza koja vodi do vrha Rtnja – mistične planine oblika piramide, kao staza na Suvoj planini koja se, po navišem vrhu, zove “Uspon na Trem”. Priređeno na osnovu teksta Milje i Ivana Vukovića Foto: Turistička organizacija Srbije

BelGuest

Summer 2019

90 YEA R S O F TO URI SM ON ZL ATA R

A FRAGMENT FROM A GOLDEN-GREEN SAGA Nine decades ago, a “landowner from Nova Varoš” Milan Borisavljević built the first summer house on the Water Field, a glade at the foot of the highest summit of Zlatar. His example was also followed by other wealthy fellow-citizens. Soon, the first guests started staying in nice villas, too. This momentous jubilee of hospitality and tourism in Nova Varoš has recently been celebrated by organizing a special festivity. “Dear friends, dear associates, lovers of the hospitality of Nova Varoš and the landscapes of Zlatar, thank you for being with us… Our municipality has an exceptional geographic position which has made it interesting to tourists throughout the country, and in recent years to tourists coming from throughout the world as well. In the forthcoming years, we plan to increase and improve our accommodation capacities, empower the domestic industry and offer our guests a touch with tradition and real values,” these are some of the accents from the welcome speech given by Branko Pucarević, director of the TO of Zlatar, the main host of the celebration organized at the City Culture Center. The attendees were also welcomed by the president of the municipality, Mr. Radosav Vasiljević. Among other things, he emphasized: “The common goal of the management is the creation of a better and more certain future, the future that will encourage every young person from Nova Varoš to return to their home… Tourism is the activity offering endless exceptional opportunities for every individual to make progress, and also for this region to revive, striving to be at the level of the best and most developed tourism destinations in our country.” THE MOST REPUTED MOUNTAIN Olgica Miljković, Ph.D., the manager for the domestic market of the National Tourism Organization of Serbia came onto the stage then. “It’s my great honor to be chosen by the National Tourism Organization of Serbia to address you on its behalf, but this honor is so much dearer to me since I myself embedded a part of my own self in the touristic development of Zlatar. Grigorije Božović, who published a travelogue from our region in Politika in 1935, left the first written trace of our first more serious steps made in this field. There were only a few log houses equipped for the admission of visitors at that time, and when Zlatar is concerned, he described it as “the most reputed mountain in Stari Vlah”. Of course, as a person born in Nova Varoš, I am biased and I do agree with his appraisal that our Zlatar is number-one for its beauty – a blend of the Mediterranean and mountain climates, the maximum number of sunny days in the year, the broad views of the landscape and the green lakes surrounded by dense, healthy forests. Although this may sound as a fragment from a fairytale, the nature of Zlatar is real.”

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Brakno Pucarević, director of TO of Zlatar

Radosav Vasiljević, Olgica Miljković and Branko Pucarević

GOLD AND PEARLS WITH A PANORAMIC VIEW As guests of the TO of Zlatar, we were asked not only to report on the event, but also to become familiar with the attractions offered to tourists. We were accommodated at the Panorama Hotel, which started working exactly half a century ago, and for so many years it was being reputed as one of the most elite in the then Yugoslavia. Even today, waiter Dragan Lečić Leka, who used to serve President Tito, legendary footballer Džajić, and other sports stars who regularly came for altitude training, works here. Of course, the list of famous guests does not end here. Today, the hotel is in a solid condition, but the structure of the guests has changed – they are mainly pupils coming for recreational classes, smaller-sized sports clubs, and individual guests. The Panorama awaits investors who will give it back the splendor it once had, but still it is the lifeline of tourism. In its immediate vicinity, the new 4-star hotels “Zlatarski zlatnik” and “Zlatarski biser” (“The Golden Coin of Zlatar”; “The Pearl of Zlatar”) have been built, as well as a line of smaller-sized boards and apartments which satisfy the tastes of picky visitors. HIT THE ROAD! Milica Popović, a tourismologist, introduced herself as our guide on our first morning on Zlatar. She opened a map and offered us different possibilities of field research. Unfortunately, due to the bad weather, we gave up on the most exciting offer – cruising the Uvac, watching griffon vultures, sightseeing the Ice Cave and visiting the belvederes that cast a view of the fluvial meanders. Photos of the imaginarily “twisted” riverbed of the Uvac, above which huge eagles fly, are found in all publications promoting the natural beauties of Serbia. We decided to head for the Water Field – the place where the tourism history of this region had begun. Today, there is only one forest house there since the summer houses burnt down during the Second World War, and the newly-constructed monastery of Saints Cosmas and Damian. That the log church was erected without one single nail is a curiosity, and the churchyard offers a magnificent view of the meadows surrounded by the forest. The trekking path leads towards the summit of the mountain and farther on towards the monastery of Mileševa, which is yet another one amongst attractive offers for those in good shape. LJEPOSAVA’S TABLE GROANING WITH FOOD The map of the territory of Nova Varoš looks like a heart with four arteries. You can head for Sjenica, Prijepolje, Zlatibor or Javor. We decided to head for Javor and the ethno-village of Štitkovo, where the asphalt road ends. Although the tourist signalization is praiseworthy, we got lost a bit only to find ourselves in the hamlet of Bukovik. We approached the first house and in front of the door we found Ljeposava, who explained to us which turn we should take. She offered us coffee. We entered a nicely arranged dining-room, where we started quite a natural conversation, and her husband Slavko joined us soon. We learnt a lot about their life and the history of this region; beside coffee, water and quince sweet, they brought other refreshments – spinach pie and homemade sour milk. We were touched by this cordiality of theirs, and in other encounters with the people of this region we understood that cordiality and hospitality are the main features of the local mentality. While parting, we bought a small bucket of full-fat Zlatar cheese, without which it is impossible to even imagine a table groaning with food in Nova Varoš.

A panoramic view of the Panorama Hotel

A view of the meanders, Radoine

ŠTITKOVO – BEYOND REMOTE On our way to Štitkovo, we paid a visit to Dubnica – a monastery of a nice architecture and a mysterious history; it was probably constructed at the beginning of the 15th century on the foundations of a much older temple. These landscapes require a slow drive since they are mild wavelike green landscapes. The scenes of the meadows on which cows and sheep freely graze, and the winding paths leading towards the brilliantly white village churches are pleasing to the eye. Driving through this tranquil landscape, we arrived in Štitkovo, from where one can only proceed on foot. Miljojko Čkonjević, the host of the protected ambience-whole of the ethnovillage, welcomed us. The houses were built in the spirit of folk architecture at the end of the 19th century, and each one is original. On his part of the estate, Miljojko made a wooden veranda harmoniously fitted into the ambience. It is here that he welcomes mainly those tourist groups who have already announced their arrival and who come here from cruising the Uvac. He offered us coffee and honey brandy as well, and with a smile on his face he was telling us how Chinese women had specially liked his potion. In the old storehouse, there are the shelves now, with tasty homemade juices and buckwheat flour used to make buckwheat pie, which is also a trademark of local gastronomy. NEW BLOOD VESSELS The last day of our stay was dedicated to the extinguished star of spa tourism. Due to a favorable height above sea-level, the ozone- and turpentine-saturated air, and a special wind rose, Zlatar has a status of an air spa. However, even prior it became official, it had empirically been known that this region was curative, first of all for the heart and the blood vessels. For that reason, the Republic Health Insurance Agency constructed an exceptionally beautiful RH center that for so many years was a leader in the rehabilitation of patients suffering from heart diseases. By coincidence, we came across a woman doctor, a retired anesthesiologist from Stuttgart, who has been coming here for years. She told us that Zlatar produces “new blood vessels”. When we commented that it was nice stylistic exaggeration, she told us with the authority of a scientist that by no means was it stylistic exaggeration, but rather a proven truth. On the hill where the closed RH Center lies, we also came across mister Isidor from Pančevo, who had once been a patient, but who still comes here to recuperate every year. Although closed, the RH Center still attracts guests with its success story. Unofficially, we have learnt that this giant of medical tourism will soon be revolving in the orbit. While parting, we only determined what of all the things we had failed to see: village households, log churches, trekking and mountain biking trails, etc. Milena Mihaljčić Photo: Aleksandar Bubanja & TO of Zlatar

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LIST OF THE DESERVING At the ceremonial academy, certificates of appreciation were delivered to the following organizations: National Tourism Organization of Serbia, Regional Development Agency, TO of the Region of Western Serbia, and “Serbia for the Young”. The awarded persons are: Dragoljub Gagričić, a journalist; Čedomir Popadić, the longstanding director of the Panorama Hotel; Desimir Mrdović, the retired director of the RH Center in charge of the promotion of Zlatibor as a healing resort, and Olgica Miljković, Ph.D., the first director of the Tourism Organization. The Church in Štitkovo

Dubnica Monastery

90. G O DI N A T URI ZMA NA ZL ATA R U

ODLOMAK IZ ZLATNO ZELENE SAGE Na Vodenoj poljani – proplanku podno najvišeg vrha Zlatara – 'novovaroški gospar' Milan Borisavljević je pre devet decenija podigao prvi letnjikovac. Njegov primer sledili su i drugi imućni sugrađani. Uskoro su, u lepim vilama, počeli da borave i prvi gosti. Ovaj zamašan jubilej gostoprimstva i turizma u Novoj Varoši nedavno je obeležen posebnom svečanošću. „Dragi prijatelji, poštovani saradnici, ljubitelji novovaroškog gostoprimstva i zlatarskih pejzaža, hvala vam što ste sa nama... Naša opština ima izuzetan geografski položaj koji je učinio da postane zanimljiva turistima širom zemlje, a poslednjih godina i turistima iz sveta. Planovi su nam da u narednim godinama povećamo i unapredimo smeštajne kapacitete, osnažimo domaću radinost i gostima ponudimo dodir sa tradicijom i pravim vrednostima“, neki su od akcenata iz pozdravnog govora Branka Pucarevića, direktora TO Zlatar, glavnog domaćina proslave koja se odvijala u gradskom Domu kulture. Prisutne zvanice pozdravio je i predsednik opštine, gospodin Radosav Vasiljević. Između ostalog, naglasio je: „Zajednički cilj rukovodstva je stvaranje bolje i izvesnije budućnosti, onakve kakva će svakog mladog Novovarošanina podstaći da se vrati u svoj kraj… Turizam je delatnost koja pruža bezbroj izuzetnih prilika da svaki pojedinac napreduje, ali i da se ovaj kraj oživi, težeći da bude u rangu najboljih i najrazvijenih turističkih destinacija u našoj zemlji.” NAJGLASITIJA PLANINA Na binu je potom izašla Dr Olgica Miljković, menadžer za domaće tržište Turističke organizacije Srbije. „Velika mi je čast što sam ispred TOS-a odabrana da vam se obratim, ali ova čast mi je utoliko draža jer sam i sama delić sebe ugradila u turistički razvoj Zlatara. O našim prvim ozbiljnijim koracima na ovom polju pisani trag je ostavio Grigorije Božović koji je 1935. godine u Politici objavio putopis iz našeg kraja. Tada je bilo tek nekoliko brvnara opremljenih za prijem gostiju, a o Zlataru je rekao da je on „najglasitija planina u Starom Vlahu“. Naravno, da sam kao rođena Novovaršanka pristrasna i da se slažem sa njegovom ocenom da je naš Zlatar po lepoti prvi – spoj mediteranske i planinske klime, maksimalan broj sunčanih dana u godini, široki vidici i zelena jezera okružena gustim, zdravim šumama. Iako zvuči kao odlomak iz neke bajke, priroda Zlatara ipak je stvarna.“

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Summer 2019

ZLATNICI I BISERI SA LEPIM POGLEDOM Kao gosti TO Zlatara bili smo zamoljeni, na samo da ispratimo događaj, već i da se upoznamo sa sadržajima koji se nude turistima. Smešteni smo u hotelu „Panorama“ koji je otvoren pre ravno pola veka i dugo je slovio za jedan od najelitnijih u nekadašnjoj Jugoslaviji. U njemu i danas radi konobar Dragan Lečič Leka koji je služio predsednika Tita, legendarnog fudbalera Džajića i druge sportske zvezde koje su redovno dolazile na visinske pripreme. Spisak poznatih gostiju se, naravno, ovde ne završava. Hotel je danas u solidnom stanju, ali se promenila struktura gostiju – to su mahom učenici koji dolaze na rekreativnu nastavu, manji sportski klubovi i individualni gosti. „Panorama“ čeka investitore koji će joj povratiti nekadašnji sjaj, ali je i dalje žila kucavica turizma. U njegovoj neposrednoj blizini izgrađeni su novi hoteli „Zlatarski zlatnik“ i „Zlatarski biser“ sa po četiri zvezdice, kao i niz manjih pansiona i apartmana koji zadovoljavaju ukuse probirljive publike. PUT POD NOGE Prvog jutra na Zlataru dobijamo vodiča – turizmologa Milicu Popović – koja rasklapa mapu i nudi nam različte mogućnosti za terensko istraživanje. Nažalost, zbog lošeg vremena, odustajemo od najuzbudljivije ponude – krstarenja Uvcem, posmatranja beloglavih supova, obilaska Ledene pećine i posete vidikovicima sa kojij se otvara pogled na rečne meandre. Fotografije nestvarno„uvijenog“ korita Uvca nad kojim lete ogromni orlovi se nalaze u svim publikacijama koji promovišu prirodne lepote Srbije. Odlučujemo da krenemo put Vodene poljane – mesta na kojem je otpočela turistička istorija kraja. Tamo se danas nalazi samo jedna šumarska kuća, jer su letnjikovci izgoreli tokom Drugog svetskog rata i novoizgrađeni manastir Sv Kozme i Damjana. Kuriozitet je što je crkva brvnara podignuta bez i jednog eksera, a iz porte se pruža divan pogled na livade okružene šumom. Pešačka staza vodi ka vrhu planine i dalje ka manastiru Mileševa, što je još jedna od atraktivnih ponuda za ljude u dobroj kondiciji. LJEPOSAVINA TRPEZA Mapa novovaroške teritorije nalikuje na srce sa četiri arterije. Može se krenuti put Sjenice, Prijepolja, Zlatibora ili Javora. Odlučujemo da krenemo ka Javoru i etno selu Štitkovo gde se asfaltni put završava. Iako je turistička signalizacije za svaku pohvalu malo smo zalutali i obreli se u zaseoku sela Bukovik. Prilazimo prvoj kući i pred vratima zatičemo Ljeposavu koja nam objašnjava gde treba da skrenemo. Nudi nam kafu. Ulazimo u lepu trpezariju gde počinje sasvim neusiljen razgovor, a uskoro nam se pridružuje i njen suprug Slavko. Puno toga smo saznali o njihovom životu i istoriji ovog kraja, a na sto su osim kafe, vode i slatka pristigla i druga okrepljenja – pita zeljanica i domaće kiselo mleko. Dirnuti smo ovom pažnjom, ali i u drugim susretima s ljudima ovog kraja shvatamo da su srdačnost i gostoljublje glavne odlike ovdašnjeg mentaliteta. Na rastanku kupujemo kačicu čuvenog punomasnog zlatarskog sira bez kojeg je nemoguće zamisliti novovarošku trpezu.

86 Summer 2019

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Monastery of Saints Cosmas and Damian, Water Field

A small inn in Štitkovo

Radoine Belvedere

ZADNJA POŠTA ŠTITKOVO Na putu ka Štitkovu obilazimo Dubnicu – manastir lepe arhitekture i zagonete istorije, koji je najverovatnije nastao početkom 15. veka na temeljima mnogo starijeg hrama. Ovi predeli traže laganu vožnju jer je sve blago zatalasano i zeleno. Oku prijajaju i prizori livada na kojima slobodno pasu krave i ovce i krivudavi puteljci koji vode ka blistavo belim seoskim crkvama. Krećući se kroz ovu pitominu stižemo u Štitkovo, odakle se dalje može samo pešice. Dočekuje nas Miljojko Čkonjević, domaćin zaštićene ambijentalne celine etno-sela. Kuće su građene krajem 19. veka u duhu narodne arhitekture i sve su originalne. Na svom delu imanja Miljojko je od drveta napravio verandu skladno uklopljenu u ambijent. Ovde dočekuje uglavnom najavljene grupe turista koji dolaze sa krstarenja Uvcem. Uz kafu, nudi nam i medovaču i s osmehom priča kako se njegov napitak posebno dopao Kineskinjama. U staroj magazi danas se nalaze police sa ukusnim domaćim sokovima i heljdinim brašnom od koje se pravi heljdopita koja je, takođe, zaštitni znak lokalne gastronomije.

His Highness, Griffon Vulture

NOVI KRVNI SUDOVI Poslednji dan boravka posvećujemo jednoj ugašenoj zvezdi banjskog turizma. Zbog povoljne nadmorske visine, vazduha zasićenog ozonom i terpentinom i posebne ruže vetrova, Zlatar ima status vazdušne banje. No, i pre nego što je to ozvaničeno, iz iskustva se znalo da je ovo podneblje lekovito, pre svega za srce i krvne sudove. Zato je Republički zavod za zdravstveno osiguranje izgradio velelepan RH centar koje je dugo godine bio lider u rehebilitaciji srčanih bolesnika. Igrom slučaja, susreli smo jednu doktorku, penzionisanog anesteziologa iz Štutgarata, koja ovde godinama dolazi. Rekla nam je da Zlatar proizvodi „nove krvne sudove“. Kada smo prokomentarisali da je to lepa stilska figura, ona nam je sa naučničkim autoritetom rekla da to nipošto nije stilska figura, već dokazana istina. Na bregu gde danas stoji zatarabljeni RH centar susreli smo i gospodina Isidora iz Pančeva koji je nekada bio pacijent, ali i dalje svake godine dolazi na oporavak. Iako ne radi, RH centar i dalje svojom uspešnom pričom privlači goste. Iz nezvaničkih izvora smo saznali da će ovaj džin medicinskog turizma uskoro ponovo biti u orbiti. Na rastanku samo konsatujemo šta smo sve propustili da vidimo: seoska domaćinstva, crkve brvnare, pešačke i mountbiking straze... Milena Mihaljčić Photo: Aleksandar Bubanja and TO of Zlatar LISTA ZASLUŽNIH Na svečanoj akademiji dodeljene su zahvalnice sledećim organizacijama: Turističkoj organizaciji Srbije, Regionalnoj razvojnoj agenciji, TO Regije Zapadne Srbije i „Srbiji za mlade“. Od ličnosti nagrađeni su: novinar Dragoljub Gagričić; Čedomir Popadić, dugogodišnji direktor hotela „Panorama“; Desimir Mrdović, penzionisani direktor RH centra za promociju Zlatara kao lečilišta i Dr Olgica Miljković, prvi direktor Turističke organizacije. INFO: Turistička organizacija Zlatar • Brdo bb • 31320 Nova Varoš • Tel:+381 33 62 621 • tozlatar@novavaros.rs Info centar: Tel: +381 33 61 203/ +381 62 80 26 150 • www.zlatar.org.rs

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Summer 2019

A N ew segment of W estern serbia ' s - T O u R I S T O F F E R

Č ačak signposts

Neither three nor five days are enough to get to know Čačak and all of its sights… A group of tourism workers who spent a weekend here and visited the city center, two spas and the Ovčar-Kablar Gorge only saw a part of its rich tourist offer.

Medjuvršje Lake “Čačak has a valuable monumental heritage and exceptional natural beauties, but has not timely been recognized and positioned as a top tourism destination. The professors of tourism who visited us, as well as the representatives of tourism organizations, agencies and media houses who we invited to spend a weekend here agree upon this. Although we’re not dissatisfied with tourist visits, we do consider the tourism of Čačak not to be at the level this city deserves. Within the program of the development of tourism, we intensively work on the promotion, as well as the improvement of the infrastructure. The time’s come for some passengers to relocate to and visit our spaces”, says Vojin Jakovljević, director of the Tourism Organization. FROM ROMANS TO MODERNISM The National Museum exhibits the objects testifying to the continuity of life in this region from prehistory to contemporary time. Roman thermae can be seen in the very center of the city, as well as the Mother of God of Gradac – the Temple of the Ascension of Jesus Christ from the 12th century, whose builder was prince Stracimir, a brother of the founder of the first Serbian mediaeval dynasty – Stefan Nemanja. A memorial complex was constructed on the hill of Ljubić to the heroes of the Serbian liberation wars in the 19th and 20th centuries, and the traces of

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history are also visible on the riverbanks of the Western Morava and the surrounding mountains – Jelica, Vujan, Ovčar and Kablar. Both warriors and artists and priests were born in this region. Here were born Patriarch Irinej; Vladislav Petković Dis, a poet; Nadežda Petrović, a woman painter; the first flag-bearer of the Serbian rebel army Tanasko Rajić; Branko V. Radičević, a man of letters; the famous army leader Stepa Stepanović, who spent the last years of his life here, is also connected with Čačak. “We have famous fellow-townspeople both in sports and in music, so we plan to open the Basketball Museum and the Rock-and-Roll Museum,” emphasizes director Jakovljević. Memorial Complex on Ljubić Hill

CEREMONIAL BEAUTY OF THE MOUNTAINS The mediaeval monasteries of Vujan, Stjenik, Trnava, and Ježevica are located in the territory of Čačak, and in the Ovčar-Kablar Gorge, there are ten monasteries and two holy places. The Ovčar-Kablar Gorge is real jewel both due to the diversity of its flora and fauna, the springs of warm therapeutic water, and the unique community of the monuments built by Serbian builders, spirituality and culture. In the powerful craggy areas, the monasteries of the Annunciation, Ilinje, Nikolje, the Falling Asleep of the Mother of God, Jovanje, the Transfiguration, the Presentation of Jesus Christ in the Temple, the Presentation of the Holy Theotokos, the Holy Trinity, the Ascension of Our Lord Jesus Christ, the St. Sava Church and the memorial monument of Kadjenica were erected. Given such a number of the monasteries and their significance, the Ovčar-Kablar Gorge is known as “the Serbian Holy Mount”.

MONASTERY OF NIKOLJE The Monastery of Nikolje, also famous for its hospitality, may be accessed from the river. Even today, the residence erected by Prince Miloš Obrenović and a pine tree over 200 years old are still in the monastery’s yard.

TREPČA You are recommended to visit Minić’s brandy-house in the village of Donja Trepča on your way to the region of Western Serbia, where you can visit a family-owned Brandy Museum. The Atomic Spa (Atomska Banja) highly-esteemed by far is situated in Gornja Trepča. Meanders of the Western Morava River YIN AND YANG The belvedere on top of Kablar offers a magnificent view of the meanders of the Western Morava, which remind the tourists coming from the Far East of the symbols of Yin and Yang. Through the massifs of Kablar and Ovčar, the river cut a gorge of pronounced beauty, while the infinite greenery hides caves and springs. There are numerous trekking trails and mountaineering paths. CRUISING ON CATAMARANS At the heart of the Ovčar-Kablar Gorge, there is Ovčar Spa, from where tourists usually start cruising the Western Morava. Travelling down the river meandering in-between the powerful mountain massifs is an unrepeatable experience. Tourists are offered (for now) three catamarans of the Tourism Organization of Čačak. BelGuest Photos: Rozana Sazdić & BelGuest Archive The delegation of tourism workers at the Kablar belvedere

ČAČAK ON THE TOURISM MAP A new hotel in the center of the city inclusive of a larger-capacity congress hall, a belvedere and a paragliding path on Ovčar, a parking zone near the belvedere on Kablar, yet another catamaran… all this will be available to tourists in the forthcoming period. Even without these attractions, after the three-day tour, the tour-operators emphasized that Čačak had unfairly been neglected. In Lazena Tourism Agency, they consider that the active membership of the TO of Čačak in the TO of Western Serbia will be a great step forward; in the “Serbia for the Young” Association, they say that the Gorge is ideal for active rest; Tarators Tourism Agency highlights numerous possibilities for adventurous routes; and Robinson Tourism Agency prioritizes cultural routes. Luna Travel Tourism Agency plans to penetrate the Russian and the Western European markets. Serbia Tour Agency promises that they will include this region in the tourism arrangements to a much greater extent.

Info: Tourism Organization of Čačak • Čačak, Gradsko šetalište • Tel: +381(0)32 342360 • www.turizamcacak.org.rs

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Summer 2019

N ovi segment turističke ponude Z apadne S rbije

Č ačanski putokazi

Da bi se upoznao Čačak i sve njegove znamenitosti nije dovoljno ni tri dana, ni pet… Grupa turističkih radnika, koja je ovde provela vikend i posetila centar grada, dve banje i Ovčarsko-kablarsku klisuru, videla je samo deo bogate turističke ponude.

A tourist attraction: sailing in catamarans

National Museum in Čačak

„Čačak ima vredno spomeničko nasleđe i izuzetne prirodne lepote, ali nije pravovremeno prepoznat i pozicioniran kao top turistička destinacija. Sa ovim se slažu profesori turizma koji su nas posetili, kao i predstavnici turističkih organizacija, agencija i medijskih kuća koje smo pozvali na vikend. Iako nismo nezadovoljni posetom, smatramo da turizam Čačka nije na onom nivou koji ovaj grad zaslužuje. U okviru programa razvoja turizma intezivno radimo na promociji, kao i poboljšanju infrastrukture. Došlo je vreme da se deo putnika preseli na naše prostore, kaže Vojin Jakovljević, direktor Turističke organizacije. OD RIMLJANA DO MODERNE U Narodnom muzeju prikazani su predmeti koji svedoč o kontinuitetu života u ovom kraju od praistorije do savremenog doba. Rimske terme se mogu videti u samom centru grada, kao i Bogorodica Gradačka - Hram vaznesenja Hristovog iz 12. veka, čiji je ktitor knez Stracimir, brat osnivača prve srpske srednjovekovne dinastije – Stefana Nemanje. Junacima iz oslobodilačkih ratova Srbije u 19. i 20. veku podignut je Memorijalni kompleks na brdu Ljubiću, a tragovi istorije vidljivi su i na obalama Zapadne Morave i okolnim planinama - Jelici, Vujnu, Ovčaru i Kablaru. Ovaj kraj iznedrio je i ratnike i umetnike i duhovnike. Ovde su rođeni patrijarh Irinej, pesnik Vladislav Petković Dis, slikarka Nadežda Petrović, prvi barjaktar srpske ustaničke vojske Tanasko Rajić, književnik Branko V. Radičević, a za Čačak se vezuje i čuveni vojskovođa Stepa Stepanović, koji je ovde proveo poslednje godine života. „Imamo slavne sugrađane i u sportu i muzici, pa planiramo da otvorimo Muzej košarke i Muzej Rock and roll-a, ističe direktor Jakovljević. SVEČANA LEPOTA PLANINA Na teritoriji Čačka nalaze se srednjovekovni manastiri Vujan, Stjenik, Trnava i Ježevica, a u Ovčarsko-kablarskoj klisuri postoji deset manastira i dva sveta mesta. Ovčarsko-kablarska klisura je pravi dragulj i po raznolikosti biljnog i životinjskog sveta, izvorima tople lekovite vode i jedinstvenoj zajednici spomenika srpskog neimarstva, duhovnosti i kulture. U moćnim vrletima podignuti su manastiri Blagoveštenje, Ilinje, Nikolje, Uspenje, Jovanje , Preobraženje, Sretenje, Vavedenje, Svete Trojice, Vaznesenje, crkva Sveti Sava i memorijalni spomenik Kađenica. Zbog brojnosti manastira i njihovog značaja, Ovčarsko-kablarska klisura poznata je pod imenom „Srpska Sveta Gora“.

JIN I JANG Sa vidikovca na vrhu Kablara pruža se veličanstven pogled na meandre Zapadne Morave, koji turiste s Dalekog istoka podsećaju na simbole jina i janga. Reka je između masiva Kablara i Ovčara usekla klisuru izražene lepote, a u beskrajnom zelenilu skrivene su pećine, izvori i špilje. Postoje brojne pešačke i planinarske staze. KRSTARENJE KATAMARANIMA U srcu Ovčarsko-kablarske klisure nalazi se Ovčar Banja odakle se obično kreće u plovidbu Zapadnom Moravom. Putovanje rekom koja vijuga između moćnih planinskih masiva predstavlja neponovljivo iskustvo. Turistima su na raspolaganju (za sada) tri katamarana TO Čačak. BelGuest Foto: Rozana Sazdić i Arhiva BelGuest-a

MANASTIR NIKOLJE Do manastira Nikolje, poznatog i po gostoprimstvu, može se doći sa reke. U manastirskoj porti i danas stoji konak koji je podigao knez Miloš Obrenović i bor, star preko 200 godina. TREPČA Preporuka je da se na putu ka regiji Zapadna Srbija poseti Minićeva kuće rakije u selu Donja Trepča, u okviru koje postoji porodični Muzej rakije. U Gornjoj Trepči smeštena je nadaleko cenjena Atomska Banja. ČAČAK NA TURISTIČKOJ MAPI Novi hotel u centru grada sa većom kogresnom salom, vidikovac i paraglajding staza na Ovčaru, parking zona kod vidikovca na Kablaru, još jedan katamaran… sve ovo će u narednom periodi biti na raspolaganju turistima. I bez ovih sadržaja, turoperatori su nakon trodnevne ture istakli da je Čačak bio nepravedno zapostavljen. U TA Lazena smatraju da će veliki pomak napraviti aktivno članstvo TO Čačak u TO Zapadna Srbija, iz Udruženje Srbija za mlade kažu da je Klisura idealna za aktivan odmor,TA Taratours ističe brojne mogućnosti za avantursitičke rute, a TA Robinson daje prednost kulturnim rutama. TA Luna travel planira plasman na rusko i zapadno-evropsko tržište. Iz agencije Serbia tour operator obećavaju da će uključiti ovaj prostor u turističke aranžmane u mnogo većoj meri.

Info: Tourism Organization of Čačak • Čačak, Gradsko šetalište • Tel: +381(0)32 342360 • www.turizamcacak.org.rs

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Draw deep breaths of nature and feel the joy of living • A health and medical spa center in the heart of Sokobanja • Nature, science and contemporary medical achievements at the service of the improvement and preservation of health • A modern spa resort for the prevention, diagnostics, treatment and rehabilitation of children and adults • State-of-the-art equipment and devices • Highly professional medical staff

Wellness and spa programs for the relaxation and revitalization of your body and spirit: Salt room • fitness • Health Path peloid • massages

LET’S STEP INTO NEW MORNINGS TOGETHER! SokobanjaSpecial Hospital • Vojvode Mišića 48, Sokobanja • Tel:+ 381 (0)18 830 124 • e-mail: sokobolnica@mts.rs • www.sokobanja.co.rs

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Summer 2019

S okobanja

N ews

Aesthetic Arrangement is Underway Famous for its numerous and diverse tourist attractions, Sokobanja is one of the most popular destinations in Serbia. This summer, too, it is ready to welcome the guests who want to enjoy nature, active rest and a good time. The journalists who came to visit this nice spa upon invitation of the National Tourism Organization of Serbia had a chance to see that the people of Sokobanja still work hard on the improvement of the tourist offer. “The ‘Sun’ Hotel is currently undergoing reconstruction worth seven million euros; then the project for the construction of a 5-star hotel is being prepared, and luxury villas are acceleratingly being built and the houses of the typical sub-mountain style are being renovated,” explained Ljubinko Milenković, the director of the Tourism Organization of Sokobanja. The president of the municipality, Isidor Krstić, pointed out the drafting of the project for a water factory, the arrangement of the riverbed of the Moravica and Banjica Park, as well as the construction of a new interchange that will directly connect Sokobanja with the highway. “VRELO” STAGE Within the structure of the new summer stage, which will open at the end of the summer, an ambient whole has been arranged, fitting in into the natural environment and bordering on the best-attended excursion resort in Sokobanja. The “Vrelo” Complex consists of two summer stages (1500 and 600 seats), the visitor center, three lakes… In future, this multifunctional facility will be the central place of cultural events in Sokobanja. Mt. RTANJ UNDER STATE PROTECTION The Spa has recently become richer for yet another, fifth, special nature reserve in its territory, when the Government of the Republic of Serbia issued a regulation by which Mt. Rtanj was declared protected natural good. The mountain is the habitat of numerous plant and animal species of national and international significance. Many plants picked on Rtanj have medicinal characteristics. Of course, the best known is Saturea montana, i.e. Rtanj tea. On the Day of St. John the Herb Picker (7th July) a large number of herb pickers come here, but due to its esthetic and health values and numerous events, this mountain attracts visitors throughout the year. Rozana sazdić Photo by: TO Sokobanja

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"Vrelo", the new summer stage

N ovosti

S okobanje

U toku je fino doterivanjE Poznata po mnogobrojnim i raznovrsnim turističkim sadržajima, Sokobanja je jedna od najpopularnijih destinacija u Srbiji. I ovog leta spremno čeka goste koji žele da uživaju u prirodi, aktivnom odmoru i dobroj zabavi Novinari, koji su na poziv Turističke organizaije Srbije posetili ovu lepu banju, mogli su da vide da Sokobanjci i dalje vredno rade na unapređenju turističke ponude. „U toku je rekonstrukcija hotela Sunce, vredna sedam miliona evra, zatim priprema projekta za izgradnju hotela sa pet zvezdica, a ubrzano se podižu luksuzne vile i obnavljaju kuće tipičnog potplaninskog stila“, objasnio je Ljubinko Milenković, direktor Turističke organizacije Sokobanja. Predsednik opštine Isidor Krstić istakao je izradu projekta za fabriku vode, uređenje korita Moravice i parka Banjica, kao i gradnju nove petlje koja će Sokobanju direktno povezati sa autoputem.

A view of Sokograd Fortress

POZORNICA VRELO U sklopu nove letnje pozornice, koja će početi sa radom krajem leta, uređena je ambijentalna celina koja se uklapa u prirodno okruženje i oslanja na najfekventnije sokobanjsko izletište. Kompleks Vrelo čine dve letnje scene (1500 i 600 mesta), vizitorski centar, tri jezera… Ubuduće, ovaj multifunkcionalni objekat će biti centralno mesto kulturnih zbivanja u Sokobanji. RTANJ POD ZAŠTITOM DRŽAVE Nedavno je Banja dobila, peti po redu, specijalni rezervat prirode na svom pordučju kada je uredbom Vlade Republike Srbije Rtanj proglašen zaštićenim prirodnim dobrom. Planina je stanište brojnih biljnih i životinjskih vrsta od nacionalnog i međunarodnog značaja. Lekovita svojstva imaju mnoge biljke ubrane na Rtnju, a najpoznatija je svakako Saturea montana, odnosno, rtanjski čaj. Na dan Svetog Jovana Biljobera (7. jul) ovde dođe veliki broj berača, ali ova planina zbog estetskih i zdravstvenih vrednosti i brojnih događanja, privlači posetioce tokom cele godine. Rozana sazdić Foto: TO Sokobanja

Seaslačka Cave, photo: Aleksandar Simić

Old Turkish Bath

Ripaljka Waterfall, photo: Dragiša Petrović

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Summer 2019

P hoto - E ditorial

VRMDŽA PHENOMENON This small village of Sokobanja is known for its natural precious values, and recently for the immigration of foreigners and families coming from big cities.

Inspired the beauty of Mt. Rtanj, the long history of the village, as well as the mysteries and legends told about the mountain at whose foot they live, the peopld of Vrmdža have opened up their door to tourists. The mountain and biking paths are signposted, the climbing rock is arranged and there are other attractions for the lovers of a healthy life. Vrmdža is also visited by the lovers of the film art. This year (on 6th July), The Third International Festival of Tourism and Ecological Documentary Film is organized. The Festival consist of the competition and non-competition segments of the program. The best film will be awarded the Grand Prix Latin City, and starting this year, special awards for an exceptional contribution to the documentary film in the field of ecology and the preservation of the living environment bearing the name of film director Petar Lalović will be delivered. www.tosokobanja.rs / www.vrmdza.org.rs Rozana sazdić Photo by: Svetlana Dingarac

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fotoeditorijal

FENOMEN VRMDŽA

Ovo malo sokobanjsko selo poznato je posvojim prirodnim dragocenostima, a u novije vreme i po doseljavanju stranaca i porodica iz velikih gradova. Inspirisani lepotom Rtnja, dugom istorijom sela kao i misterijama i legendama koje se pripovedaju o planini u čijem podnožju žive, Vrmdžani su širom otvorili vrata turistima. Obeležene su planinarske i biciklističke staze, uređena stena za penjanje i drugi sadržaji za poklonike zdravog života. Vrmdžu posećuju i poštovaoci filmske umetnosti . Ove godine (6. jula) organizuje se Treći internacionalni festival turističkog i ekološkog dokumentarnog filma. Festival ima takmičarski i revijalni deo programa. Najboljiem filmu pripada Grand Prix Latin grad, a od ove godine dodeljivaće se specijalna nagrade za izuzetan doprinos dokumentarnom filmu iz oblasti ekologije i očuvanja životne sredine, koja nosi naziv režisera Petra Lalovića. www.tosokobanja.rs / www.vrmdza.org.rs Rozana sazdić Photo by: Svetlana Dingarac

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Summer 2019

I nterview â&#x20AC;&#x201C; K ristine G reenlaw , I S B U pper S chool P rincipal

DISCOVERING PASSION & OUTDOOR LEARNING Kristine Greenlaw is an educational leader who inspires her colleagues and students to assume challenges. She worked at numerous international schools in Central America, Asia and Africa. When she saw the position advertised by the International School of Belgrade, and motivated by the fond memories of her Serbian high school friends from Toronto, Kristine decided to send the application.

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You have recently obtained the position of the ISB Upper School Principal. What are your plans? Is there any specific field in the school curriculum you want to develop? If we look at the overall, total school program, obviously our parents are first and foremost concerned with academics. So, within the International Baccalaureate framework, we want to make sure that we always deliver the best possible teaching and learning programs we can. This year, we have a very strong focus on the personalization of our learning experiences through the curriculum so that our students can develop and understand what their passions are. And passions are not necessarily what you may be best at doing in school. It is about what you love to do. The most important thing for students is that they have an understanding of what drives them and what their passions are about. Hopefully, they can find some elements of their passions in the different subjects and courses they attend. Our students are given a concept-based curriculum: working with greater ideas in order to understand content, and most importantly – to develop their skills. Encouraging ISB students to find their passions in ISB’s Total School Program is a distinctive educational approach. How does this work? Individual passions are wide-ranging and can be found in any subject. At ISB students take a wide range of subjects in the Upper School and this is to their advantage as they are then exposed to varied curriculum and experiences that can offer them opportunities for self-discovery. Some students have taken very interesting and unique approaches in their art classes. Most people would associate passion with the theater and performing arts, which our school offers rich programs for, however, there are a lot of students interested in other subjects, such as traditional social sciences, Individuals and Societies (Geography, History, Politics), Physical Health and Education or Design for example. Students also can take a wide range of co-curricular activities that may be competitive or not and participate in community service learning and action activates. It is really all about trying to understand our authentic selves, through the experiences that are introduced to you in the classroom not taught in the classroom that ISB students can explore in their own way. That is actually what makes the education we provide here at the ISB school different. The Upper School also offers a variety of “outdoor” learning opportunities. You have already published an expedition handbook for next year. How does this type of education add value to the ISB curriculum? I would quote the English Outdoor Council: ‘Challenging outdoor experiences promote the development of communication, problem-solving and decision-making skills which have currency across a range of occupations. They encourage the positive “opting-in” and “can-do” attitudes'. Experimental learning cannot be matched as a single value-added package of learning opportunities. We collaborate with a local Serbian company specialized in conducting outdoor excursions. We will travel throughout Serbia: Tara, Zlatibor, Zlatar, and Stara Planina. We also make efforts to bring the local cultural heritage in focus, including UNESCO sites. There is always a level of challenge built into the excursions since it is through challenge and struggle that kids learn more about themselves. They learn how far they can push themselves; therefore, they can bring that back into any environment: be it school or be it their personal life. These are long-lasting benefits. BelGuest Photo: ISB

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I ntervju – K ristin G rinlo , direktorka I S B srednje š kole

OTKRIVANJE STRASTI I UČENJE U PRIRODI Kristine Greenlaw is an educational leader who inspires her colleagues and students to assume challenges. She worked at numerous international schools in Central America, Asia and Africa. When she saw the position advertised by the International School of Belgrade, and motivated by the fond memories of her Serbian high school friends from Toronto, Kristine decided to send the application. You have recently obtained the position of the ISB Upper School Principal. What are your plans? Is there any specific field in the school curriculum you want to develop? If we look at the overall, total school program, obviously our parents are first and foremost concerned with academics. So, within the International Baccalaureate framework, we want to make sure that we always deliver the best possible teaching and learning programs we can. This year, we have a very strong focus on the personalization of our learning experiences through the curriculum so that our students can develop and understand what their passions are. And passions are not necessarily what you may be best at doing in school. It is about what you love to do. The most important thing for students is that they have an understanding of what drives them and what their passions are about. Hopefully, they can find some elements of their passions in the different subjects and courses they attend. Our students are given a concept-based curriculum: working with greater ideas in order to understand content, and most importantly – to develop their skills. Encouraging ISB students to find their passions in ISB’s Total School Program is a distinctive educational approach. How does this work? Individual passions are wide-ranging and can be found in any subject. At ISB students take a wide range of subjects in the Upper School and this is to their advantage as they are then exposed to varied curriculum and experiences that can offer them opportunities for self-discovery. Some students have taken very interesting and unique approaches in their art classes. Most people would associate passion with the theater and performing arts, which our school offers rich programs for, however, there are a lot of students interested in other subjects, such as traditional social sciences, Individuals and Societies (Geography, History, Politics), Physical Health and Education or Design for example. Students also can take a wide range of co-curricular activities that may be competitive or not and participate in community service learning and action activates. It is really all about trying to understand our authentic selves, through the experiences that are introduced to you in the classroom not taught in the classroom that ISB students can explore in their own way. That is actually what makes the education we provide here at the ISB school different. The Upper School also offers a variety of “outdoor” learning opportunities. You have already published an expedition handbook for next year. How does this type of education add value to the ISB curriculum? I would quote the English Outdoor Council: ‘Challenging outdoor experiences promote the development of communication, problem-solving and decision-making skills which have currency across a range of occupations. They encourage the positive “opting-in” and “can-do” attitudes'. Experimental learning cannot be matched as a single value-added package of learning opportunities. We collaborate with a local Serbian company specialized in conducting outdoor excursions. We will travel throughout Serbia: Tara, Zlatibor, Zlatar, and Stara Planina. We also make efforts to bring the local cultural heritage in focus, including UNESCO sites. There is always a level of challenge built into the excursions since it is through challenge and struggle that kids learn more about themselves. They learn how far they can push themselves; therefore, they can bring that back into any environment: be it school or be it their personal life. These are long-lasting benefits. BelGuest Photo: ISB

BelGuest

Summer 2019

B R I T I S H

I N T E R N A T I O N A L

S C H O O L

NEW PREMISES FOR THE YOUNGEST STUDENTS

In its 22nd year of existence, the British International School has opened another new building, its fourth campus, for the education of its Key Stage 2 students – it’s a nice-looking modern villa in Dedinje, in Iličićeva Street. Another exciting development, is that a special-purpose school building is currently under construction, which is estimated to open its doors to the students of the upper secondary-school at the start of the Spring term.

To discuss these developments, we talked to Aleksandra Keserović, the principal of BIS: “This year has brought us a lot of nice and joyful novelties. In September last year, we expanded our age-range and opened a pre-school infant class for three-year-old children. For this class, we arranged a space in Užička Street; however, we had an exceptional opportunity to be offered a villa in the immediate neighborhood to use. We didn’t hesitate. We arranged the shared playground and divided our students so that now younger student classes are located in the space in Užička Street, and the upper primary-school student classes are in Iličićeva Street. Now, both primary schools have a shared sports hall and swimming-pool, as well as a larger outdoor playground for different activities. Having done this, we’ve greatly improved the quality of the teaching process itself and responded to ever-greater admission requests.” Currently, with all its classes, BIS works in four locations. Over two decades after the establishment of BIS, you’ve decided to construct a purpose built school as well… “For all these years, filled with numerous awards and characterized by incessant growth, this was for the first time that we had a possibility to obtain construction land in an appropriate location and start building the special-purpose premises. The school is being built at the address 36 Neznanog Junaka Street. I can proudly say that the second floor has already been finished. There is so much that doesn’t depend on us; but, according to some of our assessments, the school building will perhaps be finished completely as soon as in January next year. Our older secondary-school pupils, namely the grades 10, 11, 12, and 13, will be located there. In the second phase of the construction, we planned to relocate the lower secondary-school grades there as well. In that way, except for the space for the youngest who remain separated, we’re all going to be in one place. The new school building is also simultaneously the foundation on which we may make plans for our further growth and development in the long run.”

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What would you single out of the current events in school? “We’ve introduced a new program – the “Ideas Program”, which was initiated by the Duke of York, who has his own secretariat in Buckingham Palace just like the Duke of Edinburgh, with whom we’ve been cooperating for so many years. It implies online competitions for the students, and for the teachers as well. We can boast of our high ranks at competitions. Mija, a 7th-grader, was among the highest-ranked in Europe. I’d also like to highlight our traditional spring charity bazaar, which has been organized for 16 years already. The themes differ every year, and this year’s Bazaar was based on a circus topic. The funds raised are intended for NURDOR – the association of the parents whose children suffer from cancer. On this occasion, too, we want to thank the donors, the parents, our students, and our school staff who had dedicatedly and diligently been preparing this event, deeply motivated by the fact that this aid would be forwarded to the children suffering from the severe disease. A great number of embassies and companies have been participating and supporting the school’s charity work for a long number of years already, thus contributing not only to solving concrete problems, but also to helping the school in the educational process and in raising the students’ awareness of the significance of charity work,” concludes our collocutor. BELGUEST Photo by: R. Sazdić

B R I T I S H

I N T E R N A T I O N A L

S C H O O L

NOVI PROSTORI ZA NAJMLAĐE ĐAKE

U svojoj dvadest i drugoj godini postojanja, Britanska internacionalna škola otvorila je još jedan prostor, četvrti kampus, za obrazovanje učenika najmlađih uzrasta – reč je o lepom zdanju jedne vile na Dedinju u Iličićevoj ulici. Međutim, najvažnija vest jeste da se upravo podiže namenska školska zgrada koje bi, već tokom zime sledeće godine, mogla da otvori vrata za učenike starijih razreda srednje škole. Povodom ovih vesti, razgovarali smo sa Aleksandrom Keserović, direktorkom BIS škole: „Ova godina donela je mnogo lepih i radostnih novosti. U septembru prošle godine proširili smo delatnost i otvorili predškolsko odeljenje za uzrast dece od tri godine. Za ovo odeljenje uredili smo prostor u Užičkoj ulici, međutim ukazala nam se izuzetna prilika da dobijemo na korišćenje vilu u neposrednom susedstvu. Nismo okleveli. Uredili smo zajedničko dvorište i rasporedili učenike tako da se sada u prostoru u Užičkoj ulici nalaze odeljenja mlađih učenika a u vili u Iličićevoj ulici starija odeljenja osnovne škole. Obe osnovne škole sada imaju zajedničku sportsku halu i bazen, kao i veći otvoreni prostor za igru i različite aktivnosti. Ovim potezom puno smo dobili na kvalitetu samog održavanja nastave i odgovorili na sve veće zahteve za slobodnim mestima.“ Trenutno, BIS škola sa svim svojim odeljenjima, radi na četiri lokacije. Posle više od dve decenije od osnivanja, upustili ste se i u graditeljski poduhvat... „Za sve ove godine, ispunjene brojnim priznanjima i obeležene neprekidnim rastom, po prvu put nam se ukazala mogućnost da dođemo do građevinskog zemljišta na odgovarajućoj lokaciji i otpočnemo izgradnju namenskog objekta. Školu zidamo na adresi Neznanog junaka br. 36. Mogu s ponosom da kažem da je drugi sprat već završen. Puno toga ne zavisi od nas, ali neke naše procene govore da će školska zgrada biti kompletno završena možda već u januaru sledeće godine. U tom prostoru će biti smešteni stariji srednjoškolci: 10. 11, 12 i 13. razred. U drugoj fazi izgradnje, planirali smo da tu preselimo i niže razrede srednje škole. Tako ćemo, osim prostora za najmlađe koji ostaju zasebni, svi biti na jednom mestu. Nova školska zgrada je istovremeno i temelj na kojem možemo dugoročno da planiramo dalji rast i razvoj. “ Šta biste izdvojili od tekućih dešavanja u školi? „Uveli smo novi program – koji nosi naziv „Program ideja“, a koji je inicirao vojvoda od Jorka, koji isto kao i vojvoda od Edinburga – s kojim već imamo dugodišnju saradnju, ima svoj sekretrijat u Bakingemskoj palati. Reč je o online takmičenjima za učenike, ali i za nastavnike. Možemo se pohvaliti da smo imali veoma visoke plasmane. Mija, učenica 7. razreda, bila je u vrhu evropskog plasmana. Istakla bih i naš tradicionalni prolećni humanitarni bazar koji se organizuje već šesneast godina. Svaki put imamo različite teme, a ovogodišnji Bazar bio je tematski posvećen cirkusu. Prikupljena sredstva su namenjana NURDORU – udruženju roditelje čija su deca obolela od raka. I ovom prilikom se zahvaljujemo donatorima, roditeljima, našim učenicima i kolektivu koji su posvećeno i marljivo pripremali ovaj događaj, duboko motivisani činjenicom da će ta pomoć otići teško oboleloj deci. Veliki broj ambasada i kompanija već dugi niz godina učestvuje i podržava dobrotvorni rad škole, doprinoseći tako ne samo rešavanju konkretnih problema, već pomažući školi u procesu učenja i podizanja svesti učenika o značaju humanitarnog rada“, zaključuje naša sagovornica. BELGUEST/Foto: R. Sazdić BelGuest

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CRYSTAL HOTEL – RIVIERA MONTENEGRO

THE MOST LUXURY H OTEL IN PETRO V A C The Riviera Montenegro Hotel has become richer for a new luxury edifice in its spacious complex. Right at the seashore the new Crystal Riviera Hotel, whose architectural glamor and beauty surpass all the construction endeavors in this part of the Adriatic has been erected recently. Many people know that Petrovac at the shore was discovered as a tourism destination as early as in the 1930s. You get to know the long history of Petrovac through the town’s many sights. On the northern side of the town, ancient, stone towers rise, whereas on the other, southern side, the new, elegant Crystal Hotel of an imposing size has anchored in the ambience of a small peaceful peninsula, with luxuriant vegetation, tranquility and freshness. You can’t tell whether it is the Sun and the sea casting reflection upon the Crystal Hotel or the Crystal mirrors while its glass glow on the surface of the sea. Anyway, the owners did not skimp on the beauty of the edifice and great attention was paid to the interior and exterior of the hotel. Foreign guests have been coming in the largest number to this complex for a long time now – so, the new hotel, which was built observing the highest standards, will satisfy even those pickiest. The small, fishermen’s place has been a hit fashionable summer resort reminding of the French coast. The circular terraces with a lot of greenery look like an image of a shell just taken out of the sea. PINK AND GOLDEN SAND BEACHES Reddish sand prevails on the Petrovac town beach, whose beauty is particularly emphasized by the view of the small islands of Katič and Sveta Neđelja (The Holy Sunday). On the Holy Sunday, there is a small church which, according to a legend, was erected by a seafarer who had found salvation there after a shipwreck. The Lučice Beach of utmost beauty is located in the vicinity of the Crystal in an about-ten-minutes’ leisurely walk. It is situated in-between two reeves, surrounded by a cypress and pine tree forest, and its fine, tiny sand is of a golden-yellow color. The immediate hinterland of the beach is unbuilt, which gives it a special beauty. It is reputed as one of the most beautiful throughout the Montenegrin coast.

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Wellness Programs The Hotel has an outdoor swimming-pool for children and adults, an indoor swimming-pool and a spa center with a hammam, a Russian spa, two Finnish saunas, two steam baths, a private zone with a hydro-air swimming-pool, a shower and tepidarium zone, as well as rooms for the body and foot massage.

HOTEL CRYSTAL- RIVIJERA MONTENEGRO

NAJLUKSUZNIJI H OTEL U PETRO V C U

Hotel Rivijera Montenegro je, u svom prostranom kompleksu, tik uz obalu mora, otvorio novo luksuzno zdanje –hotel Crystal Rivijera koji sjajem i lepotom arhitekture nadmašuje sve građevinske poduhvate u ovom delu Jadrana.

Wellnes sardžaji Hotel poseduje otvoreni bazen za decu i odrasle, zatvoreni Spa centra sa hamamm, ruskom banjom, dve finske saune, dva parna kupatila, privatnu zonu sa hidro air bazenom, zonu tuševa i tepidarijuma, sobe za masažu tela i stopala. Da je kao turistička destinacija Petrovac na moru, otkriven još tridesetih godina prošlog veka, mnogima je poznato. Petrovačka duga istorija upoznaje se kroz mnoge znamenitosti grada. Na severnoj strani, uzdižu se drevne, kamene kule, a sa druge, južne strane, u ambijentu mirnog poluostrvca , s puno zelenila, mira i svežine usidrio se novi, elegantni, po dimenzijama impozantan hotel Crystal. Ne zna se baca li sunce i voda odsjaj na Crystal hotel, ili se Crystal ogleda dok njegova stakla sijaju na morskoj površini. Bilo kako bilo, vlasnici nisu štedeli na lepoti zdanja i veoma velika pažnja je posvećena enterijeru i eksterijeru hotela. Inostrani gosti su odavno najbrojniji gosti ovog kompleksa, tako da će novi hotel, građen po najvišim standardima zadovoljiti i najprobirljivije. Malo, ribarsko mesto postalo je hit mondensko letovalište koje podseća na francusku obalu. Terase kružnog oblika sa puno zelenila, kao da su slika školjke upravo izvađene iz mora. Ružičaste i zlatne peščane plaže Pesak crvenkaste boje preovladava na petrovačkoj gradskoj plaži kojoj posebnu lepotu daje pogled na ostrvca Katič i Sveta Neđelja. Na Svetoj Neđelji nalazi se crkvica koju je, po predanju, podigao jedan moreplovac koji je posle brodoloma tu našao spas. Predivna plaža Lučice nalazi se nadomak hotela Crystal, na desetak minuta laganog hoda. Smestila se između dva rta, okružena je šumom čempresa i borova, a njen fini, sitan pesak je zlatnožute boje. Neposredno zaleđe plaže je neizgrađeno što joj daje posebnu lepotu. Ona i slovi za jednu od najlepših na čitavoj crnogorskoj obali.

INFO: Crystal Rivijera Resort 33000 Petrovac, Budva - Montenegro Tel: +382 33 422 100 www.crystalmontenegro.com

OT K R I VA N J E K VARN E R A

VILA HOTEL BARBAT NA RABU U regiji Kvarner, na Severnom Jadranu, postoje glasoviti turistički centri, poput Opatije, ali i niz ostrva i malenih mesta koje je vredno upoznati. Jedno od od takvih je Rab, koji se zbog svojih uvala i tridesetak peščanih plaža naziva „sretnim otokom“. Zanimljvo je što su se na jednoj od skrovitih plaža – u uvali Kandarola – obnaženi kupali kralj Edvard VII i njegova izabranica ledi Simpson. Nedavno je Regija Kvarner predstavila je svoju turističku ponudu u Domu Jevrema Grujića u Beogradu. Gosti iz Srbije su počeli da se vraćaju Kvarneru, a tom vidljivom rastu posebno će doprineti uspostavaljne diretnog leta Air Srbije iz Beograda do Rijeke, kao i činjenica da se autoputem do središta Regije stiže za svega oko pet sati vožnje. U ZNAKU MORA I MASLINA Na promociji smo susreli Davora Andrića iz Hotela Barbat, koji nosi ime po jednoj od oblasti na ostrvu Rabu: „Hotel Barbat je smešten na samoj obali mora, u kamenoj vili iz 50-ih godina prošlog stoljeća koja je je nedavo temeljito obnovljena na način da je zadržan šarm i ljepota prošlih vremena te dobiven neponovljiv spoj izvorne kamene arhitekture, usklađen za čarima mirisnog mediteranskog zelenila. U sklopu cvjetne terase nalazi se natkrivena loža sa velikim akvarijem sa morskim ribama i rakovima. Ovdje ćete susresti i dio naše mediteranske povijesti kroz postavu mureja masline i maslinovog ulja, na što će Vas podsjetiti amfore stare preko 2000 godina, drvena preša za preradu maslina te kamene posude za čuvanje ulja. U ovakvom ozračju i okruženju započinje Vaš gastronomski užitak u ala cart polupansionskoj ponudi,“ kaže naš sagovornik, po profesiji kuvar. RABSKI JASTOG, VINO I DRUGE DELICIJE Zanimalo nas je i šta bi od gastronomske ponude preporučio gostima: „Naša posebnost su delicije koje nastaju kao plod trenutačne inspiracije kuhara, vezane na dnevno svježu ribu lokalnih ribara, sezonsko povrće s otočke tržnice te janjetinu s rapskih pašnjaka. Jastoge ili raroge birate prema vlastitoj želji, još žive iz „jastožere” restorana. Maslinovo ulje i začinsko bilje je iz vlastite obiteljske proizvodnje i uzgoja. Kreacija jela kao i vinska karta osmišljena je u krugu obitelji s naglaskom na iskustvu i posebnostima otočke kuhinje. Naš restoran dobitnik je nagrade za najljepšu i najuređeniju terasu na otoku Rabu niz godina uzastopno, te brojnih visokih priznanja za kuhinju i kvalitetu hotela. Voleo bih da nas posetite i sami se uverite u ovo što vam govorim.“

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OT K R I VA N JE K VARN E R A

Nedavno je Regija Kvarner predstavila je svoju turističku ponudu u Domu Jevrema Grujića u Beogradu. Gosti iz Srbije su počeli da se vraćaju Kvarneru, a tom vidljivom rastu posebno će doprineti uspostavaljne diretnog leta Air Srbije iz Beograda do Rijeke, kao i činjenica da se autoputem do središta Regije stiže za svega oko pet sati vožnje. U ZNAKU MORA I MASLINA Na promociji smo susreli Davora Andrića iz Hotela Barbat, koji nosi ime po jednoj od oblasti na ostrvu Rabu: „Hotel Barbat je smešten na samoj obali mora, u kamenoj vili iz 50-ih godina prošlog stoljeća koja je je nedavo temeljito obnovljena na način da je zadržan šarm i ljepota prošlih vremena te dobiven neponovljiv spoj izvorne kamene arhitekture, usklađen za čarima mirisnog mediteranskog zelenila. U sklopu cvjetne terase nalazi se natkrivena loža sa velikim akvarijem sa morskim ribama i rakovima. Ovdje ćete susresti i dio naše mediteranske povijesti kroz postavu mureja masline i maslinovog ulja, na što će Vas podsjetiti amfore stare preko 2000 godina, drvena preša za preradu maslina te kamene posude za čuvanje ulja. U ovakvom ozračju i okruženju započinje Vaš gastronomski užitak u ala cart polupansionskoj ponudi,“ kaže naš sagovornik, po profesiji kuvar. RABSKI JASTOG, VINO I DRUGE DELICIJE Zanimalo nas je i šta bi od gastronomske ponude preporučio gostima: „Naša posebnost su delicije koje nastaju kao plod trenutačne inspiracije kuhara, vezane na dnevno svježu ribu lokalnih ribara, sezonsko povrće s otočke tržnice te janjetinu s rapskih pašnjaka. Jastoge ili raroge birate prema vlastitoj želji, još žive iz „jastožere” restorana. Maslinovo ulje i začinsko bilje je iz vlastite obiteljske proizvodnje i uzgoja. Kreacija jela kao i vinska karta osmišljena je u krugu obitelji s naglaskom na iskustvu i posebnostima otočke kuhinje. Naš restoran dobitnik je nagrade za najljepšu i najuređeniju terasu na otoku Rabu niz godina uzastopno, te brojnih visokih priznanja za kuhinju i kvalitetu hotela. Voleo bih da nas posetite i sami se uverite u ovo što vam govorim.“

INFO: Hotel Barbat Barbat 366, 51280 Barbat Na Rabu Tel: +385 (0)51 721-858 Fax: +385 (0)51 721-359 Mob: +385 (0)98 1775-094 Email: hotel-barbat@inet.hr Web: hotel-barbat.com

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