9 771451 644006
Belgrade & Serbia Visitors’ Magazine
Volume 14, SUMMER 2014
BELGRADE, WOMEN & WINE I N T E R V I E W
VLATKO STEFANOVSKI CITY EVENTS & SIGHTSEEING TO S R E CO M M E N D S
A TRIP TO SOKOBANJA & CAVES OF EASTERN SERBIA MAP FOR DISCOVERING NOVI SAD E V E N T S
I N
S E R B I A
GUČA, NIŠVILLE & NUŠIĆIJADA FESTIVALS
free copy
6
14
29
34
60
IN THIS ISSUE/IZ SADRŽAJA
6
B E LG R A D E , W O M E N & W I N E SUMMER IN A GLASS LETO U ČAŠI
14
I N T E R V I E W - V L AT K O S T E FA N O V S K I TAKE IT OR LEAVE IT UZMI ILI OSTAVI
20
B E LG R A D E T O P AT T R A C T I O N S
29
B E LG R A D E H I P P O D R O M E HORSES CHASING KONJI KOJI JURE
34
I N T E R V I E W - A R N A U D G O U I L LO N LAND WITH ROOTS & WINGS ZEMLJA S KORENOM I KRILIMA
44 B E LG R A D E S I G H T S E E I N G A CLOSER LOOK POGLED IZBLIZA 60 M A P F O R D I S C O V E R I N G N O V I S A D NOBLE WITH A REASON OTMENOST S RAZLOGOM
67
74
84
67 T O S R E C O M M E N D S - A T R I P T O S O K O B A N J A SWING FOR THE HEART LJULJAŠKA ZA SRCE 74
C AV E S O F E A S T E R N S E R B I A N MAGIC OF UNDERGROUND WORLDS MAGIJA PODZEMNIH SVETOVA
84
T H E 5 4 t h G U Č A T R U M P E T F E S T I VA L THE POWER OF MAGIC HORNS MOĆ MAGIČNE TRUBE
86
BELGRADE INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS BEOGRADSKE MEĐUNARODNE ŠKOLE
102 BELGRADE INFO
Belgrade&Serbia Visitors’ Magazine Publisher - Izdavač: Izdavačko društvo PONT d.o.o., Beograd Gočka 18 tel./fax 2332-803; mob tel. 063/84 97 582 e-mail: office@belguest.rs, redakcija@belguest.rs www.belguest.rs Publisher - Izdavač: Milena Mihaljčić, direktor Partner - Partner: Tourist Organization of Serbia Turistička organizacija Srbije Editor-in-chief - Glavni i odgovorni urednik: Milena Mihaljčić Editor - Urednik: Dragana Marković Contributors - Saradnici: Dragana Barjaktarević, Jelena Tasić, Rozana Sazdić Photographs- Fotografije: Branko Jovanović, Svetlana Dingarac, Stanko Kostić, BelGuest Photo Archive, Tourist Organization of Belgrade Photo Archive, Tourist Organization of Serbia Photo Archive Translation - Prevod: Đorđe Janković, Mark R. Pullen Serbian language editor - Lektor za srpski: Mila Barjaktarević Marketing: Pont Design - Dizajn: Miroslav Zeljug Layout - Prelom: Pozitiv MVP Print - Štampa: Službeni glasnik, Beograd BelGuest quarterly is registered with the Republic of Serbia media registry no: 651-03-168/2000-03 BelGuest magazin upisan je u registar glasila Republike Srbije pod brojem: 651-03-168/2000-03 © copyright: Pont Front Page - Naslovna strana: Dragana Barjatarević CIP - Katalogizacija u publikaciji Narodna biblioteka Srbije, Beograd 338.4 BelGuest : Belgrade & Serbia Visitors’ Magazine / editor-in-chief Milena Mihaljčić - 2001, winter/spring - Beograd : Pont, 2001(Beograd : Službeni glasnik). - 28 cm Dostupno i na: http://www.belguest.rs. Tromesečno. - Sa specijalnim izdanjem 2010: Događaji Beograda ISSN 1451-6446 = Bel Guest COBISS.SR-ID 71794956
e
d
i
t
o
r
i
a
l
|
u
v
o
d
n
i
k
Dear Guests, welcome to Serbia and Belgrade! Through the contents of this summer issue of BelGuest, which has been prepared with the desire of taking you on another unforgettable trip to beautiful parts of Serbia and undiscovered beauties of the capital city, you will have the opportunity to recognise everything that entices growing number of tourists to opt for Serbia as a holiday destination. The TOS campaign entitled "Lifestyle Serbia", which uses the spectrum of Serbian creativity, innovation, entertainment, gastronomy and active breaks to present an unusual and authentic Serbia, was complemented in early summer with the campaign |"Welcome to Serbia – smile of hospitality" which TOS is conducting in cooperation with the line ministry. This campaign will see 300,000 leaflets with information about tourist attractions in Serbia distributed at toll booths along international transport corridors through Serbia. Hot summer months also bring much joy to our country in the guise of various events: festivals, gatherings, folklore and folk creativity shows, river regattas, carnivals etc., providing an opportunity for visitors to familiarise themselves with the local culture and customs, as well as enjoying the dancing and songs, or to increase their heart rates by white-water rafting along crystal clear and cold rapids. With a choice of over 2000 events that are held in Serbia, in this issue we preview the Guča Trumpet Festival and the Nišvil Jazz Festival, as well as one of most romantic events - Nušićiada in Ivanjica. We present to you celebrated musician Vlatko Stefanovski, who uses his guitar to "combine all the beats and rhythms of the Balkans in unique harmony. With the bohemian magic of Skadralija Street, we present to you our famous writer and painter Momo Kapor, while with the delicate flavours of selected Serbian wines, we believe our summer "walk" through the wine nooks of Belgrade will inspire you to travel along the wine route through our eight wine regions. We also take you on a tour of Novi Sad, the capital of Vojvodina, presenting its main tourist attractions, but also hidden destinations for rest and relaxation. You will be able to feel the harmony of the nature of Serbia if you allow us to use our photo reportage to guide you through the caves of Eastern Serbia, or Sokobanja, one of the oldest spas in Serbia, where Ivo Andrić, our famous Nobel Prize winning writer, rested and recuperated. We propose that you also pay a visit to the Belgrade and Serbia information centres, where, in addition to information on interesting tours and destinations, you will be able to buy some nice souvenirs. It's time to travel; it’s time to visit Serbia! Gordana Plamenac, director of the Tourist Organisation of Serbia
Dragi gosti, dobrodošli u Srbiju i Beograd! Kroz sadržaje letnjeg broja BelGuest-a, pripremljenog sa željom da vas povedemo na još jedno nezaboravno putovanje predivnim delovima Srbije i neotkrivenim lepotama glavnog grada, imaćete priliku da spoznate šta sve turiste privlači da se u sve većem broju odlučuju za Srbiju kao turističku destinaciju. Kampanja TOS pod nazivom „Lifestyle Serbia“, koja kroz prikaz srpske kreativnosti, inovativnosti, zabave, gastronomije i aktivnog odmora, predstavlja nesvakidašnju i autentičnu Srbiju, početkom leta upotpunjena je kampanjom „Dobrodošli u Srbiju – osmeh gostoprimstva“, koju TOS sprovodi u saradnji sa resornim ministarstvom. Tokom kampanje 300.000 letaka sa informacijama o turističkim atrakcijama u Srbiji biće distribuirano na naplatnim rampama duž međunarodnih koridora kroz Srbiju. Vreli letnji meseci donose i mnoge radosti u našu zemlju u vidu različitih manifestacija: festivali, sabori, smotre folklora i narodnog stvaralaštva, rečne regate, karnevali... pružajući priliku posetiocima da upoznaju lokalnu kulturu i običaje, kao i da uživaju u igri i pesmi, ili da ubrzaju otkucaje srca spuštajući se splavovima niz bistre i hladne brzake. U izboru od preko 2000 manifestacija koje se održavaju u Srbiji, u ovom broju najavljujemo Sabor trubača u Guči, džez festival Nišvil, kao i jednu od najromatičnijih manifestacija - Nušićijadu u Ivanjici. Predstavljamo vam proslavljenog muzičara Vlatka Stefanovskog koji svojom gitarom „objedinjuje sve taktove i ritmove Balkana u jedinstvenu harmoniju". S magijom boemske Skadralije upoznaće vas naš poznati pisac i slikar Momo Kapor, a s delikatnim ukusima odabranih srpskih vina letnja „šetnja" kroz vinske kutke Beograda koja će vas, verujemo, inspirisati da putujete stazama vina kroz 8 vinskih regiona. Vodimo vas i u obilazak Novog Sada, glavnog grada Vojvodine, predstavljajući njegove glavne turističke putokaze, ali i skrivena mesta za predah i uživanje. Harmoniju prirode Srbije moći ćete da osetite ako dozvolite da vas foto reportažom povedemo do pećina Istočne Srbije ili Sokobanje, jedne od najstarijih banja Srbije, u kojoj se odmarao i krepio naš poznati pisac, nobelovac Ivo Andrić. Predlažemo da posetite i informativne centre Beograda i Srbije, gde ćete, osim obaveštenja o zanimljivim turama i destinacijama, biti u prilici da kupite i neki lep suvenir. Vreme je za putovanje, vreme je za obilazak Srbije! Gordana Plamenac, direktor Turističke organizacije Srbije
BelGuest Summer | Leto 2014
5
BELGRADE, WOMEN & WINE
SUMMER IN A GLASS
With a desire to reveal some of the hidden charms of Belgrade to you, we asked the President of the “Women and Wine” Association, Mirjana Maksimović, to lead us through some of the lesser known wine corners of the capital, which are largely hidden to the majority of guests... The theme of this wine “sightseeing” tour was some of the best Serbian wines.
“S
erbian wines are really like a secret for most of the world,” begins Mirjana, “because it seems that most of the modern world doesn’t even know where Serbia is located on a map, let alone what kind of wine it has to offer. Numerous world awards testify to the high quality of domestic wines, and it is up to us (and you) to convince ourselves of that and uncover our favourite label.” Determined to show us her “wine land of Belgrade“, she has selected for you three wine bars, two wine boutiques and two restaurants as places where the best Serbian wines are sold and served. SERBIAN HOUSE OF WINE Located in the modern part of Belgrade, this wine boutique offers a totally modern concept of service. Here you can find almost all Serbian wines, while the selection of international labels is also far from negligible. Alongside a selection of cheeses, prosciutto, olives, focaccia bread, bruschetta and everything else that “blends” well with wine, here you can drink your first morning coffee and start the day in a pleasant atmosphere. But if you are coming just for your love of wine, some of the 350 labels on offer are sure to satisfy your taste.
PURPLE RED KADARKA Wine made from the old, almost entirely forgotten Serbian variety of Kadarka was our choice, and Mirjana also told us a nice story interwoven with history. Almost forgotten completely, this variety arrived in the far north of Serbia during the time of the great Serb migration. Despite accounting for 60% of vineyards in the Subotica-Horgoš Sands area in the 19th century, after World War II it disappeared completely from this area. It was preserved by Hungarians, which is why it is today officially presented as their variety, even though they do not hide its true origins. Thanks to the Tonković Winery, plantations were resurrected a
Mirjana Maksimović with a glass of the best Balkan Rosé few years ago. If you get the opportunity, try this purplish red, elegant, refined wine. Its lightness and smoothness will win you over immediately, while the magical taste of cherries in its rosé variety will long remind you of it. WINE BOUTIQUE “WINE AND PLEASURE” Would you like to return from Belgrade with an authentic bottle of wine? Are you seeking the ideal gift for a friend? Would you like to give some wine accessories alongside a bottle of wine? For all of that, and much more, this wine boutique is an excellent choice. In addition to an extremely extensive offer of local wines, where foreign brands also haven’t been forgotten, here you are awaited by a great selection of Serbian rakija brandies, but also cheeses, olives, shellfish, smoked fish, traditional cured ham, chocolate and olive oil. This is not a place
where you can enjoy the ritual of drinking your favourite bottle, but you can purchase literally everything you need for that experience. THE KING & QUEEN OF ŽUPA VINEYARDS Our choices were unreservedly two wine labels from the Spasić Winery and one could say with certainty that they represent the feathers in the cap of Serbian wine: Prokupac and Tamjanika. Prokupac, in this case blended with Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, will definitely surpass your expectations. Fresh acidity and aromas of black and red fruits, with a hint of fine chocolate, are formed through a perfect combination between wine and the oak barrels it rests in, while a strong tannic structure directs you towards “serious” food like steaks or other red meat. They say that Prokupac is the King of Župa, while Tamjanika is his queen. When you try these two wines, you'll understand why. Tamjanika (a variety of Muscat
BelGuest Summer | Leto 2014
7
Blanc à Petits Grains) is subtle, fragrant and sophisticated, while its name carries that of the favourite Christian Orthodox scent of incense (tamjana), though it does not carry the same aroma at all. Due to its versatility, it goes well with a variety of dishes, both local and international cuisine. SIROVINA BAR & SUNSHINE IN A GLASS Are you in the city centre? Do you want to drink a glass of good wine? Do you want to escape the commotion of the city, at least briefly, though without needing to use any transportation? If so, this is the place for you! In the heart of town, in a semi-subterranean part of the building, this place is a paradise for all lovers of good cheese and wine. The atmosphere and offer of this urban corner of the world alone compel us to try some of the wines deeply rooted in the traditions of our people. After short consideration, the choice falls on Italian Riesling, from the Vinum Winery in Sremski Karlovci. It is difficult to imagine a traditional Serbian meal without a bottle of this riesling. The golden yellow colour of this wine testifies to the phrase “sunshine trapped in a glass”. A pronounced varietal fragrance, moderate fullness and well balanced acidity make this wine an ideal choice for a hot summer afternoon.
WRITERS’ CLUB Located in the heart of the city centre, just behind the National Theatre, with Belgrade’s most beautiful garden, this restaurant proudly preserves and nurtures the spirit of tradition, but also the splendour of the modern era. “This is the tavern where the Serbian elites were born and died,” many would say. Founded in the middle of the last century, this restaurant has always been a meeting place for diplomats, writers, government officials, politicians, actors... Back then one came with a membership card, and around Belgrade the witticism spread that it was more important to be a member of the Writers’ Club than a member of the Association of Writers. Today a membership card is no longer required for you to enjoy the very same atmosphere and culinary specialities that were enjoyed by Danilo Kiš, Zoran Radmilović, Momo Kapor, Matija Bećković, Ivo Andrić, JeanPaul Sartre, Richard Burton and many others. THE POWER OF OPLENAC SHIRAZ Considering the greatness and significance of a place like this, we decided to choose an equally great wine. We opted for the young Rogan Winery from the heart of Serbia and its equally young, but great, Shiraz. The fact that, due to limited quanti-
ties, you can only find this Shiraz in exceptional places, but also the fact that it recently won a silver medal in the heart of Paris at the international evaluation of the world’s finest wines made from this variety, contributed to our choice. After that we moved on to selecting dishes that would pair nicely with this wine, in which we were assisted by the great staff of this restaurant. The result was such that we heartily recommend you use the same tactics. And the Shiraz? Well, the Shiraz also outdid our expectations. Moderately strong tannins, a complex structure, a pronounced flavour of black forest fruits and a mild scent of vanilla, send a clear message about the strength of this wine. After just one sip it will become clear to you that your glass contains something superior and something we will be happy return for... PAMPUR (CORK) BAR Arranged so that it is immediately clear to you that you’ve arrived as the guests of a host who understands hedonism, this bar doesn’t differ in the least from those of a similar style anywhere in the world... With carefully selected music, any of the more than 600 wines on offer, the best hams and cheeses and the best choice of Lindt chocolate will make your visit to this bar an unforgettable experience.
BEST BALKAN ROSÉ It’s always been known that Fruška Gora is a God-given area for growing grapes and producing wine. That fact was confirmed in early June this year by jury of the Balkans International Wine Competition. As such, here we proudly present and heartily recommend a wine that is officially the best Rosé in the Balkans, produced by the Kiš Winery. This winery’s beginnings can be traced back as far as 1830, while this rosé – produced by blending the autochthonic Frankovka and international Merlot – is proof that the combination of tradition, experience and modern technology provides the best.
We destroyed the peace and serenity of this place by choosing the labels of the Despotika Winery, which bears the name of Nemir (Unrest). This rosé variety is made from Cabernet Sauvignon. The aroma in the glass is one of red fruits and in the nose wild flowers, while on the label there is advice: with whatever food, whatever music and whatever book consume this wine. Complete hedonism, I tell you... COMPANIA DE VINOS Located in the heart of the old part of the city, this wine boutique offers a wide selection of wines from around the world, as well as other alcoholic drinks, Italian pasta, luxury chocolate, coffee and wine accessories. Promotions are always held on Saturdays, making this a perfect day to taste before buying. Particularly popular are gift packs designed according to the buyer’s wishes and needs. In search of one more perfect wine before the end of the day, we opted for the Radovanović Winery’s multiple award-winning Rosé. A clearly discernable colour immediately suggests an experience of the rich aroma of red fruits, with clear notes of ripe strawberries. Pleasant acidity and moderate fullness make t his wine an ideal companion for a light summer meal. TORO GASTRO BAR Richard Sandoval, one of the world’s best chefs, is the owner of a chain of 26 restaurants across the
world. Enchanted by Balkan cuisine, Belgrade and Belgrade ladies, he decided to open his first restaurant in Europe right here in the city. In addition to local ingredients, he also uses South American and Asian elements to skilfully create small bites that are then piled on plates and are ideal for sharing with friends. All dishes are prepared from fresh ingredients with minimal use of fat. In addition to the classic menu, at this restaurant you’ll also find a vegetarian and gluten free menu. In addition to a great selection of wines, the drinks list also offers very original cocktails that are prepared using only fresh fruits and natural sweeteners. Located directly on the bank of the Sava, Toro is a great place to relax at the end of the day. Spectacular sunsets, colours of the night sky and the way you will be served food here all combine to make the whole experience special and present this Serbian metropolis in a completely different light. T HREE MORAVAS ON THE BANKS OF THE SAVA Inspired by the experience of night on the banks of the river, our wine choice was the light Tri Morave white wine from the Temet Winery. In addition to being named after the Morava rivers, this wine is specific because it is produced from a blend of three indigenous grape varieties:
Smederevka, Tamjanika and Morava. This extremely light and airy wine, which is perfect for hot summer evenings, carries the intoxicating scent of linden with a slight hint of citrus. The freshness, mineral content and above all uniqueness of this wine provides a completely new experience of Serbian wine which you will always return to as a dear guest. Enjoy! BelGuest Photo: Dragana Barjaktarević INFO: Srpska kuća vina | Antifašističke borbe 15 tel: (011)2137474 | www.enotria.rs Wine and Pleasure Vinoteka Beograd Bulevar oslobođenja 117 tel: (063)8406395 | www.vinotekabeograd.com SirOvina bar | Tadeuša Košćuška 20 tel: (011) 3282397 | www.sirovina.rs Klub književnika | Francuska 7 tel: (011)6227931 | www.klubknjizevnika.rs Pampur bar | Njegoševa 28a tel: (011) 3085569 Compania de Vinos | Kalenićeva 3 tel: (011)2449407 Toro Gastro Bar | Karađorđeva 2-4 tel: (011)3034342 | www.torobelgrade.com
BelGuest Summer | Leto 2014
9
B E O G R A D, Ž E N E I V I N O
LETO U ČAŠI
U želji da Vam otkrijemo još neke od skrivenih čari Beograda, zamolili smo predsednicu Udruženja „Žene i Vino“, Mirjanu Maksimović da nas provede kroz neke manje znane i većini gostiju skrivene vinske kutke prestonice... Tema ovog vinskog „razgledanja“ bila su najbolja srpska vina.
„S
rpska vina za većinu sveta kao da zaista jesu tajna“, počinje svoju priču Mirjana, „jer čini se da veći deo modernog sveta ne zna ni gde se Srbija nalazi na karti, a pogotovo ne kakva vina može da ponudi. Brojne svetske nagrade svedoče o kvalitetu domaćih vina, a na nama (i Vama) je samo da se u to uverimo i otkrijemo svoju omiljenu etiketu.“ Odlučna u nameri da nam predstavi svoj „vinski Beograd“, izabrala je za Vas tri wine bar-a, dve vinoteke i dva restorana, kao mesta na kojima se kupuju i služe najbolja srpska vina.
SRPSKA KUĆA VINA Smeštena u modernom delu Beograda, ova vinoteka nudi jedan sasvim savremen koncept usluge. Ovde možete naći skoro sva srpska vina, ali, nije zanemarljiv ni izbor stranih etiketa. Uz selekciju sireva, pršute, masline, fokače, bruskete
i svega onog što se lepo „sljubljuje” s vinom, ovde možete popiti i prvu jutarnju kafu, te u prijatnom ambijentu započeti dan. Ako ste pak došli samo iz ljubavi prema vinu, neka od 350 etiketa iz ponude će sigurno zadovoljiti i Vaš ukus.
izbor srpskih rakija, ali i sireva, maslina, školjki, dimljene ribe, pršute, čokolade i maslinovog ulja. Ovo nije mesto na kojem možete uživati u ritualu ispijanja svoje omiljene boce, ali zato možete kupiti doslovno sve što Vam je za taj doživljaj potrebno.
PURPURNO CRVENA KADARKA Vino spravljeno od stare, skoro sasvim zaboravljene srpske sorte Kadarka bio je naš izbor, a Mirjana nam je ispričala i jednu lepu, istorijom protkanu priču. Skoro sasvim zaboravljena, ova sorta je stigla na krajnji sever Srbije još u vreme velike seobe Srba. Iako je u 19. veku činila 60% vinograda subotičko-horgoške peščare, posle Drugog svestkog rata sasvim je nestala sa ovih prostora. Sačuvali su je Mađari i zato se ona danas zvanično predstavlja kao njihova, iako ni oni ne kriju njeno pravo poreklo. Zahvaljujući Vinariji Tonković, pre par godina, zasadi su obnovljeni. Ako ste u prilici, probajte ono purpurno crveno, elegantno, rafinirano vino. Njegova lakoća i pitkost će Vas osvojiti na prvu, a čarobni ukus trešanja u njegovoj Rose varijanti dugo će Vas sećati na nju.
KRALJ I KRALJICA ŽUPSKOG VINOGORJA Naš izbor su bez dvoumljenja bile dve vinske etikete, obe iz Vinarije Spasić i obe, može se slobodno reći, perjanice srpskog vinarstva: Prokupac i Tamjanika. Prokupac, u ovom slučaju kupažiran da ukupno 20% Merlota i Cabernet Sauvingnona, definitivno će nadmašiti Vaša očekivanja. Sveže kiseline i arome crnog i crvenog voća uz fine primese čokolade čine perfektan spoj vina i hrastovog bureta u kome je odležavao, dok jača taninska struktura direktno upućuje na „ozbiljniju“ hranu poput bifteka, ali i drugih crvenih mesa. Kažu da je Prokupac kralj Župe, a da je Tamjanika njegova kraljica. Kada probate ova dva vina, znaćete i zašto. Tamjanika, prefinjena, mirišljava i sofisticirana, ime nosi po pravoslavcima omiljenom mirisu tamjana iako uopšte na njega ne miriše. Zbog svoje mnogostranosti, odlično se slaže sa velikim brojem jela kako domaće tako i strane kuhinje.
VINOTEKA WINE AND PLEASURE Želite li da se iz Beograda vratite sa bocom nekog autentičnog vina? Tražite idealan poklon za prijatelja? Želite da mu uz bocu vina poklonite i neki od vinskih asesoara? Za sve ovo, ali mnogo toga drugog ova vinoteka je odličan izbor. Pored izuzetno obimne ponude domaćih vina, mada ni strana nisu zapostavljena, ovde Vas čeka i odličan
SIROVINA BAR I SUNCE U ČAŠI U centru grada ste? Želite da popijete čašu dobrog vina? Želite da bar na kratko napustite metež grada ali da pri tome ne morate da koristite nikakav prevoz? Ovo je pravo mesto za Vas! U strogom centru grada, u polusuterenskom delu zgrade, rajsko
BelGuest Summer | Leto 2014
11
mesto za sve ljubitelje dobrog sira i vina. Sama atmosfera i ponuda ovog urbanog kraja sveta, tera nas da probamo neko od vina duboko ukorenjenih u tradiciju našeg naroda. Posle kratkog razmišljanja, izbor pada na Italijanski rizling, Vinarije Vinum iz Sremskih Karlovaca. Tradicionalni srpski obrok teško da se može zamisliti bez jednog ovakvog rizlinga. Zlatno žuta boja ovog vina svedoči o onoj „sunce zarobljeno u čaši“ sintagmi. Izražen sortni miris, umerene punoće, dobro balansiranih kiselina čine ovo vino idealnim izborom za vrela letnja popodneva. KLUB KNJIŽEVNIKA Smešten u najužem centru grada, odmah iza Narodnog pozorišta, sa najlepšom baštom Beograda, ovaj restoran s ponosom čuva i neguje duh tradicije, ali i sjaj modernog doba. „Ovo je kafana u kojoj se rađala i umirala srpska elita“ reći će mnogi. Osnovan polovinom prošloga veka, restoran je oduvek bio mesto okupljanja diplomata, pisaca, državnih zvaničnika, političara, glumaca... Ovde se tada dolazilo sa članskom kartom, a Beogradom se prepričavala dosetka po kojoj je bilo važnije biti član „Kluba književnika“ nego član „Udruženja književnika“. Članska karta Vam danas nije neophodna da uživate u istom onom ambijentu i specijatetima kuhinje u kojima su uživali i Danilo Kiš, Zoran Radmilović, Momo Kapor, Matija Bećković, Ivo Andrić, Jean-Paul Sartre, Richard Burton i mnogi drugi. SNAGA OPLENAČKOG ŠIRAZA Shodno veličini i značaju jednog ovakvog mesta, odlučili smo i da odaberemo jedno isto tako veliko vino. Odlučili smo se za mladu Vinariju Rogan iz srca Srbije i njihov isto tako mlad, ali veliki Shiraz. Činjenica da ovaj Shiraz, zbog ograničenih količina, možete naći samo na izuzetnim mestima, ali i tome da je pre nedelju dana osvojio srebrnu medalju sred Pariza, na međunarodnom ocenjivanju najboljih svetskih vina ove sorte, doprineli su našem izboru. Nakon toga, prešli smo na izbor jela koje će se lepo sljubiti s ovim vinom u čemu nam je pomoć pružilo i sjajno osoblje ovog restorana. Rezultat je bio takav da Vam od srca preporučujemo istu taktiku. A Shiraz? E pa, i Shiraz je više nego ispunio naša očekivanja. Umereno jaki tanini, kompleksna struktura, izražene arome šumskog i crnog voća i blagi miris vanile šalju jasnu poruku o snazi ovog vina. Posle samo jednog gutljaja biće Vam jasno da u čaši imate nešto vrhunsko i nešto čemu ćete se rado vraćati... PAMPUR BAR Uređen tako da Vam odmah bude jasno da ste došli u goste domaćinu koji se u hedonizam razume, ovaj bar ni po čemu se ne razlikuje od onih sličnog tipa bilo gde u svetu... Pažljivo odabrana muzika, neko od preko 600 vina u ponudi, najbolje šunke i sirevi i najbolji izbor „Lindt“ čokolada učiniće Vašu posetu ovom lokalu nezaboravnim iskustvom. Mir i spokoj ovog mesta, narušili smo izborom etikete Vinarije Despotika, koja nosi naziv Nemir. U pitanju je sortni Rose, spravljen od Cabernet Sauvignona. U čaši arome crvenog voća, u nosu poljsko cveće, a na etiketi savet: uz koju hranu, koju muziku i koju knjigu konzumirati ovo vino. Komplet hedonizam, kad Vam kažemo... COMPANIA DE VINOS Smeštena u srcu starog dela grada ova vinoteka nudi veliki izbor vina iz celog sveta, ali i druga alkoholna pića, italijanske testenine, luksuzne čokolade, kafu i vinski pribor. Promocije se uvek dešavaju subotom, te je to idelan dan da vino pre kupovine i degustirate. Posebno popularna
su poklon pakovanja dizajnirana prema želji i potrebi kupca. U potrazi za još jednim savršenim vinom, pred sam smiraj dana mi smo se odlučili za višestruko nagrađivani Rose iz Vinarije Radovanović. Jasno izražena boja odmah upućuje na doživljaj bogate arome crvenog voća, sa jasno izraženom notom zrele jagode. Prijatne kiseline i umerena punoća učinili su ovo vino idealnim pratiocem laganih letnjih obroka. TORO GASTRO BAR Richard Sandoval, jedan od najboljih svetskih kuvara, vlasnik je lanca od 26 restorana u celom svetu. Očaran balkanskom gastronomijom, Beogradom i beogradskim damama, odlučio je da svoj prvi restoran u Evropi otvori baš ovde. Pored lokalnih, koristi i južnoameričke, ali i azijske sastojke koje vešto kreira u male zalogaje poslagane na tanjire tako da oni postaju idealni za deljenje sa prijateljima. Sva jela se spremaju od svežih namirnica sa minimalnom upotrebom masnoća. Inače, u ovom restoranu, pored klasničnog, naći ćete i vegetarijanski, ali i gluten free meni. Karta pića, pored odličnog izbora vina, nudi i veoma originalne koktele za čiju pripremu se koristi sveže voće i isključivo prirodni zaslađivači. Smešten uz samu obalu Save, Toro je sjajno mesto za opuštanje na kraju dana. Spektakularan zalazak sunca, boja noćnog neba i način na koji će Vam ovde servirati hranu čine ceo doživljaj posebnim i predstavljaju srpsku metropolu u jednom sasvim drugačijem svetlu. TRI MORAVE NA OBALI SAVE Inspirisani doživljajem noći na obali reke, naš vinski izbor bilo je lagano belo vino Tri Morave iz Vinarije Temet. Ovo vino pored toga što nosi ime reke, specifično je i po tome što ga čini kupaža tri autohtone sorte grožđa: Smederevka, Tamjanika i Morava. Ovo izuzetno lagano i lepršavo vino, idealno za vrele letnje noći, sa sobom nosi opojni miris lipe sa blagim primesama citrusa. Svežina, mineralnost i nadasve posebnost ovog vina pruža jedan sasvim novi doživljaj vinske Srbije kome ćete se, uvek vraćati kao dragi gost. Uživajte! BelGuest Foto: Dragana Barjaktarević INFO: Srpska kuća vina | Antifašističke borbe 15 tel: (011)2137474 | www.enotria.rs Wine and Pleasure Vinoteka Beograd Bulevar oslobođenja 117 tel: (063)8406395 | www.vinotekabeograd.com SirOvina bar | Tadeuša Košćuška 20 tel: (011) 3282397 | www.sirovina.rs Klub književnika | Francuska 7 tel: (011)6227931 | www.klubknjizevnika.rs Pampur bar | Njegoševa 28a tel: (011) 3085569 Compania de Vinos | Kalenićeva 3 tel: (011)2449407 Toro Gastro Bar | Karađorđeva 2-4 tel: (011)3034342 | www.torobelgrade.com
INTERVIEW V L AT KO S T E FA N O V S K I , G U I TA R I S T
It’s tough for me to explain to anyone what Balkan is. I can only play for him Kalajdžisko oro on my guitar, or sing for him the song Jano mori sevdalino, and that’s it. Take it or leave it, I have no intention or desire to convince anyone that this music is wonderful.
TAKE IT OR LEAVE IT
O
nly a true guitar virtuoso can leave us with the impression that the instrument and the man are one in the perfect tune we're hearing. We can only meet this recognition and such quality with true masters of the guitar. Vlatko Stefanovski is one such master. Although next to his name we will most commonly see the tag guitarist, his guitar is not just a tool, but rather a mission in which he has spent decades combining all beats and rhythms of the Balkans in a unique harmony; in a sound that actually is life in the Balkans. Vlatko Stefanovski was born in 1957 into a family of actors and started playing the guitar at the age of 13. Before his 20th year he had formed the band “Leb i sol”, with which he recorded 14 albums, performed around the world and was one of the leading forces of the Yugoslav music scene. Since the mid-1990s Stefanovski has also enjoyed a very successful solo career. In recent years he has played and recorded around the world with many top artists, such as Tommy Emmanuel, Stochelo Rosenberg, Jan Akkerman, Theodosii Spassov, Stefan Milenković, Kudsi Ergüner, Bojan Z, Manu Katché, Tony Levin and many others. These concerts provide yet more confirmation of the notion that music knows no boundaries of language, nation and state. These were more than enough reasons why he last year received the prestigious Braća Karić Award. Your CV masterfully records musical mergers that are much broader and deeper than a space like that of the Balkans, as a particular musical expression. One gets the impression that your guitar is not just an instrument but rather a mission with which you have spent decades summarising the beats and rhythms of the Balkans in a harmony that presents this area to the world like a personal musical map. It is as if your guitar has one more invisible string that conveys something that is more than sound. - I think that invisible string is the most important. Connecting space, time and the emotional and spiritual code of the people of this region of the Balkans is very important to me. But all this that I'm doing is tactile intuition and the search for meaning. I do not do too much analysis and planning, rather I try to listen to my internal radar and move where it tells me...
cial charm, a lot of interesting ingredients and challenges within himself. Have you ever thought about how that music emerged, what fostered it, why it is so strangely “broken”, yet full of rhythm, in slow melancholic songs... - I’m constantly thinking about that, but it is difficult to analyse and explain that music. Beauty is there to be admired and for us to feed ourselves with it. Try to explain why some forests emerged just at that point, why trees are beautifully green, why cones are born that again release resin... There are many influences that you can recognise in Macedonian music, but there is also a lot that is original and unique contained within in. The blues emerged because people found a way to express their feelings: their grief, joy, pain. In that melody they sought and found solace. There are regions where the blues are accepted... Macedonia is one such place. The Tobacco Road passes through Prilep! If you were to describe in a few sentences what images you have associatively with the music of the Balkans, what would they be? What would be able to flow like a film on a virtual canvas in the background of your concerts? - Psychedelia and strong electric colourful national costumes... Try to connect hippy aesthetics, Indian drawings and the folk embroideries of our grandmothers... very similar things. Somewhere there lies the cinematic expression of my fantasies. Of course, added to all of this should be many landscapes of mountain peaks, forests, rivers, meadows and wondrous gifts of nature.
In an attempt to define the musical genre which you belong to, we find different descriptions: the special style of fusion music, a combination of traditional and modern rhythms... How would you present your music to someone who knows very little about the Balkans? - It's tough for me to explain to anyone what Balkan is. I can only play for him Kalajdžisko oro on my guitar, or sing for him the song Jano mori sevdalino, and that's it. Take it or leave it, I have no intention or desire to convince anyone that this music is wonderful. Of course, all true folk music and authentic music has its own kitsch and commercial variations. You will easily distinguish real traditional Indian music from cheap pop versions of the same music... The technique that characterises you as a guitarist is specific. How much is a great guitarist just a good technician and how much is something else needed to shape the portrait of the artist, a virtuoso on guitar? - My technique of playing is just a side effect of my work. I probably practiced a lot and that’s how I became nimble and fast on the guitar. Some younger guitarists are faster and more agile than me. I hope I have built up my own signature over the years and that I can be easily recognised. The tone and vibrato are what separates you, what sets you apart. That sounds simple, but it is very difficult to achieve... “For me those two hours on stage are comforting, a holiday, a celebration in relation to everything that happens until we get on
Beiing born in Prilep (Macedonia) you brought a logical and honest stamp of that specific musical heritage. Macedonian folk music was also described in a way by Miroslav Tadić, who said that the musician has spe-
BelGuest Summer | Leto 2014
15
stage. When I start playing, then all bets are off, even the fatigue and lack of sleep” – you once said in an interview. It seems that in music, as in everything else, love is also an important ingredient. - Without love you can’t bake bread properly, you can’t even cook soup well, not to mention music. That passion for playing, composing and performing is something that drives you forward. Without love things do not make sense. No one needs a mechanical performance, even of the best music. For me the best concerts I've been to are religious experiences. I listened to the concert in Belgrade with your famous improvisations within some familiar tunes. When you are alone on stage, everything is somehow clear, but when you’re at a concert together with, say, Miroslav Tadić, and you start your parallel amazing improvisations, one layman simply wonders how it is possible for two people, seemingly with no written notes, to be able to simultaneously produce such musical harmony.
People can barely step to the beat next to each other. How do you succeed in that? - I don’t know how we manage it, if I knew, I would deal with the theory and pedagogy. We have built our own language, a common dialogue. Through playing we communicate on another level. Language or verbal communication reaches so far... After that follows recognition and music. Without looking, without a word, without consultation... It’s very intriguing and fun. Without naming all the places and all the musicians you’ve played with, is there a particular performance, concert or moment of playing that means something more to you than the others? - It was fun and exciting to play in London with the London Symphony Orchestra, a priceless experience. To play our music at the heart of the Empire, being the soloist in front of that orchestra... It does not happen to everyone and does not happen every day. We played the same concert in Vienna, Monte Carlo, Leipzig, Skopje, Gala, gala etc.
Music for film and theatre is a special part of your creative work. You have been asked by my fellow journalists what you usually like to listen to in a bar, while in Belgrade there is the unavoidable theme from Stole Popov’s film “Gypsy Magic”. You recently collaborated with Goran Paskaljević on his latest film, “Kada svane dan” (When day breaks). How do you actually write music for film or theatre? What all needs to be aligned for the tone to ”lie” as it should alongside the pictures? - Again, I do not know. All I'm doing is walking on slippery surfaces. There is no recipe and no rules and there are no instructions on how to do it. I watched some documentaries on film music and realised that they are ridiculous and unnecessary. Why analyse a creative deed? Or, better yet, how? When a composer talks about his music or when he tries to recount, explain, rationalise it – that’s a battle lost before it’s begun. There are none of those geniuses who know everything all the time. It's tough to be Morricone... I know you don’t like to talk about the past, that you point that you are focused on the future, but it interests me how you, as a man and an artist of subtle feelings, view the times in which we live? - Ah, it's a worrying time... Terrorism, totalitarian regimes, consumer society aggression, technology that creates chaos in our minds, a culture of violence, kitsch, bad taste, a lack of love, empathy and solidarity... However, not to be pessimistic, people live, travel and love, kids are born... And time goes by without caring too much about us. So what do you expect from the future? - I do not expect a spectacle, but I also would not want us to experience cataclysms, wars and everything that goes with it. They say that in the Balkans you cannot be born and die in the same country. It's an interesting theory... Deep within every man carries a certain system of values that determine what is important in his life and what isn’t. How have you set up your value system? What is it that is important and valuable to you in your life? What is it that you believe in? - To survive in this world, have a family, a partner with whom you share life, children who you care about and who you work for, to have friends you can contact at any time to enquire about their health, and to travel around this colourful and interesting world, to watch moving images that are much more charming than those on the television. Dragana Marković
16
Summer | Leto 2014 BelGuest
INTERVJU V L AT K O S T E FA N O V S K I , G I TA R I S TA
UZMI ILI OSTAVI Teško mi je da bilo kome objašnjavam šta je to Balkan. Mogu samo da mu na gitari odsviram Kalajdžisko oro, ili da mu otpevam pesmu Jano mori sevdalino, i to je to. Uzmi ili ostavi, nemam nameru niti želju da bilo koga ubeđujem da je ta muzika predivna.
S
amo nam istinski virtuozi na gitari ostavljaju utisak da su instrument i čovek jedno u savršenoj melodiji koju slušamo. Tu prepoznatljivost i takav kvalitet srećemo jedino kod istinskih majstora gitare. Vlatko Stefanovski je jedan od njih. Iako pored njegovog imena najčešće stoji gitarista, njegova gitara nije samo instrument već misija u kojoj decenijama objedinjuje sve taktove i ritmove Balkana u jedinstvenu harmoniju. U zvuk koji i jeste život na Balkanu. Vlatko Stefanovski rođen je 1957. godine u glumačkoj porodici, a na gitari je počeo da svira sa 13 godina. Pre svoje dvadesete godine oformio je sastav „Leb i sol“, koji je snimio 14 albuma, nastupao širom sveta i bio jedan od vodećih sastava jugoslovenske muzičke scene. Od sredine devedesetih godina prošlog veka Stefanovski je napravio vrlo uspešnu solo karijeru. U poslednjih nekoliko godina svirao je i snimao širom sveta sa mnogim vrhunskim umetnicima, kao što su to Tomi Emanuel, Stočelo Rozenberg, Jan Akerman, Teodosij Spasov, Stefan Milenković, Kudsi Erguner, Bojan Z., Manu Kače, Toni Levin i mnogi drugi. Ti koncerti
su još jedna potvrda teze da muzika ne poznaje granice jezika, naroda i država. Upravo su to bili više nego dovoljni razlozi što mu je prošle godine uručena i prestižna Nagrada „Braća Karić“ . Vaša biografija suvereno beleži muzičko objedinjavanje znatno šireg i dubljeg prostora, kao što je to Balkan, u specifičan muzički izraz. Stiče se utisak da Vaša gitara nije samo instrument već misija kojom se decenijama taktovi i ritmovi Balkana sažimaju u harmoniju koja se kao lična muzička karta ovog podneblja predstavlja svetu. Kao da na Vašoj gitari postoji još jedna nevidljiva žica koja prenosi to nešto što je više od zvuka. - Mislim da je ta nevidljiva žica najvažnija. Povezivanje prostora, vremena, emocionalnog i duhovnog koda naroda sa ovih prostora Balkana veoma je važno za mene. Ali je sve to što radim opipavanje intuicije i traženje smisla. Ne bavim se preterano analizama i planovima, već pokušavam da oslušnem unutrašnje radare i da se krećem tamo gde mi oni kažu...
Rođeni u Prilepu, poneli ste logično i iskreno pečat tog specifičnom muzičkog nasleđa. Makedonski melos je na neki način opisao i Miroslav Tadić, rekavši da za muzičare ima poseban šarm, mnogo zanimljivih sastojaka i izazova u sebi. Jeste li nekada razmišljali o tome kako je nastala ta muzika, šta ju je iznedrilo, zašto je tako čudno „izlomljena“, a puna ritma, u sporim pesmama melanholična... - Stalno razmišljam o tome, ali teško je analizirati i objasniti tu muziku. Lepota je tu da bismo joj se divili i da bismo se njome hranili. Probajte da objasnite zašto je neka šuma iznikla baš na tom mestu, zašto je drveće prekrasno zeleno, zašto se rađa šišarka koja opet pušta smolu... Dosta je uticaja koje možete prepoznati u makedonskoj muzici, ali i originalnog i jedinstvenog sadržano u njoj. Bluz je nastao zbog toga što su ljudi pronašli način da izraze svoje emocije: svoju tugu, radost, bol. U toj melodiji tražili su i nalazili utehu. Postoje podneblja gde se bluz prima... Makedonija je jedno takvo mesto. Kroz Prilep prolazi tobaco road!
BelGuest Summer | Leto 2014
17
Kada biste sa nekoliko rečenica opisali slike koje asocijativno imate na muziku Balkana, kakve bi one bile? Šta bi to na nekom virtuelnom platnu u pozadini Vašeg koncerta moglo da teče kao film? - Psihodelija i jak električni kolorit narodnih nošnji... Probajte da povežete hippy estetiku, indijanske crteže i narodne vezove naših baka... Veoma slične stvari. Tu se negde nalazi i filmski izraz mojih fantazija. Naravno, u sve to treba dodati i mnogo pejzaže planinskih vrhova, šuma, reka, livada i čudesnih darova prirode. U pokušaju da se definiše muzički pravac kome pripadate nailazimo na različite opise: posebni stil fuzione muzike, spoj tradicionalnih i savremenih ritmova... Kako biste Vi predstavili svoju muziku nekom ko malo zna o prostoru Balkana? - Teško mi je da bilo kome objašnjavam šta je to Balkan. Mogu samo da mu na gitari odsviram Kalajdžisko oro, ili da mu otpevam pesmu Jano mori sevdalino, i to je to. Uzmi ili ostavi, nemam nameru niti želju da bilo koga ubeđujem da je ta muzika predivna. Naravno, svaki istinski melos i autentična muzika imaju i svoju kič i komercijalnu varijantu. Lako ćete razlikovati pravu tradicionalnu indijsku muziku od jeftinih pop varijanti iste te muzike... Tehnika koja Vas kao gitaristu odlikuje posebna je. Koliko je sjajan gitarista samo dobar tehničar, a koliko je to nešto drugo potrebno da se zaokruži portret umetnika, virtuoza na gitari?
18
Summer | Leto 2014 BelGuest
- Moja tehnika sviranja je samo prateća pojava moga rada. Verovatno sam dosta vežbao i tako sam postao spretan i brz na gitari. Neki mlađi gitaristi su i brži i spretniji od mene. Nadam se da sam tokom godina izgradio svoj potpis i da me lako možete prepoznati. Ton i vibrato su ono što te odvaja, što te razlikuje. To zvuči jednostavno, ali se veoma teško postiže... „Meni su ta dva sata na sceni uteha, praznik, slavlje u odnosu na sve to što se događa dok ne stignemo na scenu. Kada počnem da sviram, onda sve pada u vodu, i umor i nespavanje“ – rekli ste u jednom razgovoru. Čini se da je u muzici, kao i u svemu ostalom, ljubav takođe bitan začin. - Bez ljubavi ne možete ispeći hleb kako treba, ne možete skuvati ni supu kako treba, da ne govorim o muzici. Ta strast prema sviranju, komponovanju, izvođenju nešto je što te tera napred. Bez ljubavi stvari nemaju smisla. Nikome ne treba mehaničko izvođenje čak i najbolje muzike. Najbolji koncerti na kojima sam bio za mene su religiozno iskustvo. Slušala sam na beogradskim koncertima Vaše čuvene improvizacije unutar neke nama poznate melodije. Kada ste sami na sceni, sve je nekako jasno, ali kada ste na koncertu zajedno sa, recimo, Miroslavom Tadićem, pa krenu vaše paralelne, neverovatne improvizacije, čovek laik se jednostavno zapita kako je moguće da dvoje ljudi, čini se bez zapisanih nota, istovremeno daje takvu muzičku harmoniju. Ljudi teško koračaju u ritmu jedan pored drugog. Kako uspevate?
- Ne znam kako uspevamo, kad bih znao, bavio bih se teorijom i pedagogijom. Mi smo izgradili sopstveni jezik, zajednički dijalog. Sviranjem komuniciramo na drugom nivou. Jezik ili verbalna komunikacija stižu do neke tačke... Nakon toga slede prepoznavanje i muzika. Bez gledanja, bez reči, bez dogovaranja... Veoma intrigantno i zabavno. Da ne nabrajamo sva mesta i sve muzičare s kojima ste svirali, postoji li neki poseban nastup, koncert ili trenutak sviranja koji Vama znači više od ostalih? - Bilo je zabavno i uzbudljivo svirati u Londonu sa Londonskim simfonijskim orkestrom. Neprocenjivo iskustvo. U srcu Imperije svirati našu muziku, biti solista ispred tog orkestra... Ne dešava se svakom i ne dešava se svaki dan. Taj isti koncert svirali smo i u Beču, Monte Karlu, Lajpcigu, Skoplju. Gala, gala... Muzika za film i pozorište poseban je deo Vašeg stvaralačkog opusa. Pitale su Vas kolege šta najčešće volite da čujete u kafani, a u Beogradu je nezaobilazna tema iz filma Stoleta Popova „Ciganska magija“. Sarađivali ste nedavno i sa Goranom Paskaljevićem na njegovom najnovijem filmu „Kad svane dan“. Kako se, u stvari, piše muzika za film, pozorište? Šta tu sve treba da se uskladi pa da ton „legne“ kako treba uz sliku? - Ponovo ne znam. Sve što radim je hodanje po klizavom terenu. Nema recepta, nema pravila i ne postoji uputstvo kako se to radi. Gledao sam
neke dokumentarce o filmskoj muzici i shvatio da su smešni i nepotrebni. Zašto analizirati kreativni čin? Ili još bolje, kako? Kada kompozitor govori o svojoj muzici ili kada proba da je prepriča, objasni, racionalizuje – to je unapred izgubljena bitka. Nema takvih genijalaca koji sve znaju u svakom trenutku. Teško je biti Morikone.... Znam da ne volite da govorite o vremenu prošlom, da naglašavate kako ste okrenuti budućnosti, ali me zanima kako kao čovek, umetnik istančanih osećaja, vidite vreme u kome živimo? - Ah, vreme je zabrinjavajuće... Terorizam, totalitarni režimi, agresija potrošačkog društva, tehnologija koja pravi haos u našim glavama, kultura nasilja, kič, neukus, odsustvo ljubavi, empatije, solidarnosti... Ali ipak, da ne budemo pesimistični, ljudi žive, putuju, vole se, deca se rađaju... A vreme teče ne mareći previše za nas. Šta onda očekujete od budućnosti? - Ne očekujem spektakle, ali ne bih ni želeo ni da doživimo kataklizme, ratove i sve što uz to ide. Kažu da na Balkanu ne možeš da se rodiš i da umreš u istoj državi. To je zanimljiva teza... Svaki čovek duboko u sebi nosi i određen sistem vrednosti kojim baždari ono bitno i nebitno u životu. Kako ste Vi postavili svoj sistem vrednosti? Šta je to što je Vama važno i vredno u životu? Šta je to u šta verujete? - Preživeti u ovom svetu, imati porodicu, partnera s kojim deliš život, decu o kojima brineš i
Vlatko Stefanovski with Stefan Milenković zbog kojih radiš, imati prijatelje kojima se možeš u svako doba javiti i pitati ih za zdravlje, i putovati po ovom šarenom i zanimljivom svetu, gle-
dati pokretne slike koje su mnogo šarmantnije od televizora... Dragana Marković
BelGuest Summer | Leto 2014
19
HIGHLIGHTS
Belgrade Fortress
Belgrade Fortress and Kalemegdan Park represent an open-air museum of the city’s history. The Victor statue, with its beautiful view over the rivers, is a symbol of Belgrade
City Centre
A pedestrian zone and shopping district – Knez Mihailova Street and Republic Square represent one of the most valuable architectural areas and liveliest parts of the city.
Skadarlija Bohemian Quarter
One of the city’s most significant old ambient quarters, it offers a great time at restaurants and bars offering music and national cuisine.
Skadarlija Bohemian Quarter
CIT Y OF BE LGR A D E
Top Attractions Belgrade’s unique hallmark is provided by its two major rivers, the Sava and the Danube, its cosmopolitan spirit and the charm of its inhabitants. We highly recommend these must-visit places in Serbia’s capital: Belgrade Fortress, Skardarlija bohemian quarter, the heart of the old town, old Zemun, St. Sava Temple, the royal court complex, green oases around Ada Ciganlija lake, Topčider Park and Mount Avala, as well as the legacy from UNESCO’s Memory of the World Register. www.travel-belgrade.com
The Republic Square
Knez Mihailova Street
Photograph of Belgrade Fortress by Svetlana Dingarac BelGuest Summer | Leto 2014
21
HIGHLIGHTS
City on the River Banks
A special treasure of Belgrade is its riverbank areas. Rafts, clubs, cafés, greenery, walks along the Sava and Danube rivers will give you a unique experience of the city.
St. Sava Temple
This imposing temple, one of the largest Orthodox churches in the world, is dedicated to a great man of Serbian history, St. Sava.
Royal Court Complex
The Royal Court and the White Court, which make up the court complex, bear witness to the history and refined artistic taste of the Serbian Karađorđević royal dynasty.
Topčider Park
The Court Park and oriental residence of great Serbian ruler Miloš Obrenović speak about the history of the liberation of Serbia. A magnificent plane tree is the park’s landmark.
Royal Court Complex
TopÄ?ider Park
St. Sava Temple
BelGuest Summer | Leto 2014
23
HIGHLIGHTS
Ada Ciganlija
24
Summer | Leto 2014 BelGuest
The Archive of Nikola Tesla
Avala Tower
Old Zemun
Once at the very border of the West, old Zemun still evokes the spirit of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. Gardoš Tower, with its panoramic views of the Danube, is a landmark of Zemun.
Ada Ciganlija Miroslav’s Gospel
Visit the “Belgrade Sea” – a beautiful river lake surrounded by woodland, with countless cafés, restaurants, bike paths and sports fields.
Avala
Avala Tower on the mountain of the same name is one of the city symbols. You will see unforgettable views of the city and its surroundings from the observation deck at the tower’s top.
UNESCO–Memory Of The World
The Archives of Nikola Tesla, the genius scientist who “illuminated the planet”, are in his museum in Belgrade. The oldest uniquely illustrated Cyrillic manuscript, Miroslav’s Gospel, from the 12th century, is preserved at the National Museum.
BelGuest Summer | Leto 2014
25
A GUIDE TO THE SERBIAN MENTALITY BY MOMO KAPOR
THE MAGIC O L
ike moths attracted to a flame, they descend down the steep and unlit streets to Skadarlija. They come from all quarters of the city. What they are trying to escape from is designated by parked cars and lines of windows of neighbors they've never met. Identical curtains, uniform chandeliers, the same potted flowers... They know it's morning by the roar of starting car engines; dusk – by the bluish crackling of TV sets. They've spent the best evenings of their lives at doorways and stairways of housing blocks, between someone's dreamy guitar plucking, between violence and sex, the sounds of which penetrate the thin membranes of assembly wailing of this honeycomb for fatigued urban bees. They've been eyeing the exciting shine of another Belgrade, the one on the other side of the river – the marvelous city section they visited once a month to go shopping or see a movie. In the mid-1960s, Belgrade seems rather to have quenched its thirst for spatial conquest, for gulping down the energy it could no longer assimilate. It
26
Summer | Leto 2014 BelGuest
began to search for its own soul only to discover it in several forgotten small streets of old Skadarlija. Two dilapidated coffeehouses for years left to oblivion, once visited by men – recognized in today's textbooks, men full of despair, smashed lampposts and the tree lines were all ample stage settings toward taking the first step that would bring one across Turkish cobblestones into the land of nostalgia. “What were we?”, asks Tin Ujević in 1934 – One might answer a handful of poor, nervous or consumption-afflicted students. At the time, being a poet meant being a black sheep, an oddball, a kind of an anomaly. Cities' looks suffer transformation, and our eyes, too, are changing... Old houses had a somewhat grayish and sallow faces; coffeehouses had a more intimate and people a more familiar flavour. And major aspects would frequently include a bit of mist, rainy mornings, damp evenings, a disquiet in the bones, an irritation of the nerves, dampened longings penetrated by chilliness facilitated by the slightness of pelerines worn by starving artists...”
Then, a miracle unfolds before our eyes: the CocaCola generation moves into the Bohemian Skadarlija quarter in the 1970s, breaking away from the wellordered world of their parents. Youngsters flee their rooms with identical, mass-produced furniture bought on credit, escape never-ending installments and a ready-made life that implies going to work in the morning and then returning home for lunch, resting and sleeping and eventually turning on the TV, followed by turning in for the day. This vicious circle was being broken, a circle entailing food, drink, sliding images of sleep – and half-asleep copulation, a circle in which Saturdays climax in car washing and dull outings, in which vacations are largely taxing rather than relaxing, and state holidays a chance to spend three days of the week in bed sleeping. They had inadvertently been drawn by that thin, almost imperceptible Ariadne's thread of late-arriving romanticism that here – in these forsaken and steep alleys – the last heroic resistance to consumerism had offered. The bones of some previous unfortu-
FSkadarlija
nates – poets and drunk actors, runaway apprentices and barber's assistants, feuilletonists and madmen, disinherited heirs, deserters, good-for-nothings, singers that fell from grace, panders and geniuses – now served to bring forth a small-scale industry dealing in nostalgia. Old songs and out-of-tune bands were jolted from their resting places and mothballs. Then, there's also a whole assortment of wine-drinking romanticism on sale coupled with corresponding paraphernalia to go with it: turn-ofthe-century boaters, old photographs and new fiacre lamps, lacework and decorations, walking sticks with dog-headed silver handles, icons and Bohemian bow-ties – everything with any nostalgic value has a price here! I walk amid this extravagant auction of the past, saddened by frenzied attempts to rediscover one's long since lost soul, recycled senseless by the modern-day machine. I see them searching for it in verses, in artifacts, in the taste of warm flat bread
willed with kidney goulash, in the scent of boiled corn-cobs and in the sound of soles echoing against Turkish cobblestones (this time round, without the indispensable patches of grass between the white stones), as I try to shoulder and elbow my way through the slender bottles of Coca-Cola addicts, wondering what they were doing in a place like this? They're doing nothing! They're merely sitting on the sidewalks in silence! They call to one another: “Let's go to Skadar(lija) for some fun!” But, that isn't “having fun”! These youngsters only feel they must live their life differently from how it's lived there – in the ordered concrete loop of casemate dwellings encircling the city – but they haven't the slightest idea what this life should be like. But, they have come across a cold trail here, among the washed-out street bands and amid the threadbare words that have lost all meaning due to overuse, among street vendors
reselling trinkets others had thrown out – all this in an essentially moving but futile attempts to recreate a street to fit a conceived image. And, as long as they're here, they're safe from the cog-wheels of life's roaring demolition machine somewhere up there persistently threatening to get hold of them, grind them down and then throw them out through its opening as perfect money and baby makers. And so, under the line of old trees, in the shadows of cheerful loafers, whose rebellion against the skinflints ended up on record only, the Coca-Cola generation, too, was unwittingly nurturing hope it would somehow manage to extricate itself from its dire predicament. However, as opposed to the poets – to all those desperate people who brought game to this street by drinking oceans of wine – these lads only drink Coca-Cola. For this reason, their drunkenness in much heavier, while their hangover might last forever.
BelGuest Summer | Leto 2014
27
MOMO KAPOR - VODIČ KROZ SRPSKI MENTALITET
MAGIJA SKADARLIJE P
oput mušica privučenih petrolejskom lampom, spuštaju se niz strme i tamne ulice u Skadarliju. Stižu iz najudaljenijih krajeva grada. Predeo iz koga beže omeđen je parkiranim automobilima i nizovima prozora iza kojih žive nepoznati susedi. Iste zavese, isti lusteri, jednako cveće u saksijama... Jutro raspoznaju po grmljavini motora koji se pale; sumrak – po plavičastom krkljanju televizora. Najlepše večeri svojih života proveli su na ulazima i stepeništima blokova, između sanjivog drndanja nečije gitare, nasilja i seksa čiji zvukovi prolaze kroz tanke montažne opne ovog saća za umorne gradske pčele. Dugo su gledali uzbudljivi odsev onog Beograda, s druge strane reke – čudesni grad u koji su odlazili jedanput mesečno u kupovinu ili bioskop. Sredinom šezdesetih, Beograd kao da se pomalo zasitio stalnog osvajanja prostora, gutanja energije koju više nije mogao da svari. Počeo je da traga za svojom dušom i otkrio ju je u nekoliko zaboravljenih uličica stare Skadarlije. Dve trošne kafane ostavljene godinama po strani, u kojima su nekada sedeli danas već slavni očajnici iz čitanki, razlupani fenjeri i drvored, sasvim su dovoljna scenografija za prvi korak koji će grad povesti preko turske kaldrme u zemlju nostalgije. „Šta smo mi bili?“ - pita se Tin Ujević 1943. godine – Može se reći malo siromašnih, nervoznih ili tuberkuloznih studenata. U to je doba biti pjesnik značilo biti bijela vrana, čudan pojam, vrsta anomalije. Gradovi mijenjaju lica, a i naše oči se mijenjaju... Stare kuće imale su nekako posivjela i požutjela lica, kafane su bile intimnije, ljudi poznatiji. Bitan element često: malo magle, kišna jutra, vlažne večeri, nemir u kostima, nestrpljivost živaca, pokisle čežnje u hladnoći tananih pelerina tadašnjih umetnika u gladovanju...“ Dešava se čudo: Coca-Cola generation naseljava sedamdesetih godina skadarsku Bohemiju, bežeći iz dobro organizovanog sveta svojih roditelja. Mladež beži iz soba sa istovetnim nameštajem kupljenim na kredit, iz večnih otplata i konfekcijskog života, u kome se ujutro odlazi na posao, a zatim vraća kući, ruča, spava i, na kraju, odvrće televizijska slavina, a posle leže u postelju. Kida se taj, već začarani krug načinjen od jela, pića, serijskih slika, sna i parenja u polusnu, gde su subote slavlje automobilskog pranja, izleti bez iznenađenja, godišnji odmori puni zamora, a državni praznici – mogućnost da se prespavaju tri dana u nedelji. I ne znajući, privučeni su onom tankom, gotovo nevidljivom arijadninom niti poznih romantičara što su ovde, u ovim zabitim i strmim sokacima pružali poslednji herojski otpor potrošačkom svetu. Na kostima davnih nesrećnika – pesnika i pijanih ludaka, razbaštinjenih naslednika, dezertera, probisveta, pevačica koje su izgubile svoj dobar glas, zaverenika i genija – rađa se mala industrija što trguje nostalgijom. Iz grobova i naftalina izvučene su stare pesme i raštimovani orkestri. Tu je i čitav arsenal jedne špricerske romantike potpomognut rekvizitom koja se rasprodaje: žirado-šešiti, stare fotografije i novi fijakerski fenjeri, čipke i odlikovanja, štapovi sa srebrnom psećom glavom, ikone i boemske leptir-mašne – ovde ima svoju cenu sve što poseduje bilo kakvu nostalgičnu vrednost! Prolazim kroz ovu veliku licitaciju prošlosti, rastužen paničnim pokušajem da se otkrije sopstvena odavno izgubljena duša, isprana do besvesti u centrifugama belih aparata. Vidim, kako je traže preko stihova, predmeta i melodija, putem ukusa tople lepinje, ispunjene gulašem od svinjskih bubrega, kroz mirise kuvanog kuku-
28
Summer | Leto 2014 BelGuest
ruza i škripu đonova po rekonstruisanoj turskoj kaldrmi (ovaj put bez neophodne trave među belim kamenjem) – probijam se laktovima i ramenima kroz vitka tela kokakoličara, pitajući se šta traže ovde? Ništa. Sede po pločnicima i ćute. Oni to zovu: „Hajdemo u Skadar na zezanje!“ Ali to nije zezanje! Ta mladež samo oseća da bi trebalo živeti drugačije nego što se živi tamo u pravilnom betonskom prstenu stambenih kazamata oko grada, a pojma nemaju kako bi taj život trebalo da izgleda. Nanjušili su nekakav bledi trag ovde, među izlizanim uličnim orkestrima i rečima koje su od silne upotrebe izgubile svaki smisao, među preprodavačima odbačenih drangulija, u samom srcu dirljivo bespomoćnog pokušaja da se načini ulica po ljudskoj meri. I sve dok su tu, bezbedni su od zupčanika zahuktale mašine za život, tamo gore, koja neprestano preti da će ih zgrabiti i samleti, a posle izbaciti kroz svoj otvor kao savršene proizvođače novca i dece. I tako, pod okriljem starog drvoreda, u senci veselih probisveta čija se pobuna protiv ćifta završila u čitanci, Coca-cola generation neguje nesvesno i svoju nadu da će se nekako izvući iz sivih okolnosti – za razliku od pesnika, očajnika koji su ovu ulicu proslavili jezerima ispijenog vina ovi dečaci piju samo koka-kolu. Zbog tog pića njihovo pijanstvo je mnogo teže a mamurluk im može potrajati kroz ceo život.
100 years of the Belgrade Hippodrome | 100 godina Hipodroma Beograd
трка код Цареве ћуприје
хиподром београд
HORSES CHASING
konji koji jure
The House of King Petar recently opened the exhibition U Kući kralja Petra nedavno je otvorena izložba „100 “100 years of the Belgrade Hippodrome”, which is the basis godina Hipodroma Beograd“ koja je i osnova za foto for the photo story that we are presenting in this issue. The priču koju vam prenosimo. Tradicija konjskih trka evroptradition of European-style horse racing in Belgrade is long skog stila u Beogradu je duga i bogata. Prvo trkalište and rich. The first racetrack was set up in mid-19th century in uređeno je polovinom 19. veka na periferiji grada kraj the suburbs near Carigradski Drum (Constantinople Road), Carigradskog druma, na kome su zaslugom Kneza where, thanks to Prince Mihailo Obrenović, the first race was Mihaila Obrenovića, prve trke organizovane 14. aprila Prince Mihailo Obrenović organised on 14 April 1863. He personally wrote the rules 1863. godine. On je lično napisao pravila i pobednicima and gave prizes to the winners in imperial gold coins. predao nagrade u zlatnim cesarskim dukatima. The wars that followed one after another after his assassination in 1868 disRatovi koji su se posle njegovog ubistva 1868. god. nizali jedan za drurupted for some time the development of the equestrian sport. On St. George Day gim omeli su neko vreme razvoj konjičkog sporta. Na Đurđevdan 1890. Osnovano je „Srpsko jahačko udruženje“ koje iste godine priređuje svoj (Đurđevdan) in 1890, the Serbian Equestrian Association was established, which prvi „Engleski konjotrk“ na bari „Veneciji“. To udruženje ubrzo menja svoje that same year organised its first English horse race at Bara Venecija neighbourhood. The association soon changed its name into the Danube Circle of Riders ime i naziva se Dunavsko kolo jahača „Knez Mihailo“ i prvi put organizuje “Prince Mihailo” and organised the first race on the new racetrack “Banjica Field” in trke na novom trkalištu „Banjičko polje“ 1891. godine, gde je istrčan prvi 1891, where the first gallop “Serbian derby” and the race “Kostolac” were organised. galopski „Srpski derbi“ i trka „Kostolac“. Upon arrival to the throne of King Petar I Karađorđević in 1903, the “Circle Po dolasku na presto kralja Petra Karađorđevića I, 1903. god. „Kolo of Riders” received new members, mostly young cavalry officers and other jahača“ se osvežava novim članovima, najviše mlađim konjičkim oficirima prominent people, and developed their activities vastly. i drugim uglednim ljudima i razvija ogromnu delatnost. The racing at the “Banjica Field” was organised until 1914, when a new Na „Banjičkom polju“ trkalište se zadržalo do 1914. kada je sagrađeno racing field was built at the Topčider valley, at the Careva ćuprija (Emperor’s novo u Topčiderskoj dolini, kod Careve ćuprije, gde se hipodrom i danas bridge), where the hippodrome has remained until today and where it marked nalazi, beležeći 100 godina postojanja. A tokom tog vremena vrhunska 100 years of existence. And during that time, top quality horses, their owners grla, njihovi vlasnici i džokeji ispisali su bogatu istoriju, prepunu napetih and jockeys were part of a rich history, full of tense races, great victories and trka, velikih pobeda i istih takvih poraza – onako kako je u konjičkom defeats – as it has always been the case with the equestrian sport. sportu oduvek bilo.
BelGuest Summer | Leto 2014
29
1.
трка код Цареве ћуприје
хиподром београд 1. King Aleksandar Karađorđević was the patron of the Danube Circle of Riders “Prince Mihailo” and members of this distinguished institution were owners of gallopers and many respected people. The betting house at the hippodrome started working in 1925. 2. Jockey clubs all over the world have always been the central points of social life of the equestrian elite. The Belgrade Jockey Club was founded in 1923 in order to spread the love for the gallop sport and develop a good sense of camaraderie. 3. Prince Pavle Karadjordjević was president for life of the Belgrade Jockey Club. Gallopers racing were his passion, and his contribution to the equestrian sport was outstanding.
7.
8.
4. After the race at the hippodrome, there were tea parties, receptions, dances and other festivities. Most often playing were bands: “Student Miki Jazz Orchestra”, “Jolly Boys” and the legendary band of Štule Jovanović. 6. The period between the world wars was marked by many owners whose horses were winning in the biggest races. Vlada Ilić (6.1) and brothers Djordje (6.2) and Gedeon Dundjerski (6.3) occupy a special place in the history of Belgrade hippodrome. 7. A series of brilliant gallopers started at the Belgrade Hippodrome in the period between the two world wars. The most successful was the stallion Fantast, owned by Dr. Leon Kojen.
2.
8. Laguna, a great mare, was running from 1940 till 1943 at the Belgrade Hippodrome. She was unbeatable at the Emperor’s bridge; she took part in six races and went past the finish line first every time. 9. Prince Pavle and Princess Olga, who cared about fashion a lot and always dressed in style, were regular guests of the Jockey Club. And the style of the Princess was fostered by many Belgrade ladies.
30
Summer | Leto 2014 BelGuest
9.
The construction of a hippodrome near the Emperor’s bridge began in 1912. On 27 May 1914, the first race was held there. Although the racetrack at the Emperor’s bridge had not yet been completed, there were close to 2,000 spectators gathered at the stands, the restaurant was stocked and was doing business well.
3.
6.1
4.
6.2
6.3
9.1
9.2
10.
14.2
12.
11.
трка код Цареве ћуприје
хиподром београд
14.1
New Age
9. Many champions were prancing down the trotting track of the Belgrade Hippodrome, but few who have recorded such great success as Alihils Hiko (9.1) and Riano (9.2). 10. The long history of the gallop sport at the hippodrome records many good gallopers, including Factor, Kazan, Atlantik and Niger. By the fierce fighting, the excitement and uncertainty, their duels will be remembered for all time. 11. Drivers of sulkies (two-wheeled carts) are like drivers of “Formula 1” in the trotting sport. They are true lovers of horses. The most famous trotting aces are father and son Ivan and Branislav Mukić.
13.
12. Jockeys – the small people with big hearts – are highly skilled, courageous and self-sacrificing. Together with the horses they ride in races, they fight to the last breath. At the Belgrade Hippodrome, there are more than 30 jockeys riding at the moment. The best one is Djordje Perović, who performed with great success at the racetracks in Italy. 13. Ladies, with their fanciful hats, always gave a special charm to the racetrack. 14. The two most successful gallopers in the long history of the Belgrade Hippodrome were certainly Magrana (14.1) and Billy Allen (14.2).
BelGuest Summer | Leto 2014
33
Arnaud Gouillon, director of humanitarian NGO Solidarity Kosovo (SolidaritÊ-Kosovo) Serbia – those are the roots without which nothing would make sense, but also the wings with which it will take off and overcome everything that troubles it.
Serbia LAND WITH
ROOTS & WINGS
F
renchman Arnaud Gouillon is 28 years old and a native of Grenoble. In 2007 he gained the title of Master of Engineering in the field of occupational safety and environmental protection at the high Polytechnic University in his hometown and today he is married to Ivana, a Serb born in France, who he has been living with in Belgrade for the last two years. This is a brief biography of the life of the director of the NGO Solidarité-Kosovo (Solidarity Kosovo), which has been organizing humanitarian projects for Serbs in Kosovo for the last 10 years. - I grew to love Serbia through conversations with my grandfather and father about the French-Serbian friendship, which is why I sympathised with the Serbian people when it was most difficult for them in 1999 – explains Arnaud in conversation with BelGuest. The pogrom of Serbs in Kosovo on 17th March 2004 was the “trigger”. It was then he decided to set up a humanitarian organization to help Serbs living in enclaves in Kosovo. He has described the events, experiences and memories of the past decade in the book “All my roads lead to Serbia”, recently published by the Official Gazette. - Our organization today has 8,000 donors and 30 volunteers. They are mostly French, which is a great success. We succeeded in turning to the French, showing them that Serbs are not “beasts”, as they were perceived publicly, but rather great people, close to the French, who need our solidarity. The number of donors represents a circle of friends that is constantly expanding. They grant us complete freedom of action and independence. We have never sought subsidies from public organizations, embassies, regions, states, Europe... In the beginning it would definitely be easier with state money, but subsidies can bind the hands and dictate what will be done, which we certainly did not want to accept - highlights Gouillon. He says he considered living in Kosovo, but ultimately opted for Belgrade: - I love Kosovo. I go there every three weeks, sometimes even more often. I am familiar with almost all the villages, have many friends and feel at home. However, due to both practical reasons and our closeness with France and Ivana's birthplace, as well as other projects I want to lead in Belgrade, we decided to settle in the Serbian capital. Arnaud considers Belgrade to be the most attractive to his soul. - At a time of ever increasing uniformity among the capitals of Europe, I believe Belgrade has preserved its specificity, which is extremely valuable, and nurtured original architecture... The spirit of Belgrade is present everywhere, because every Belgrader holds a fraction of its culture.
Belgrade is not the most beautiful city I've visited. In economic terms, it is not the most promising either. However, Belgrade has remained true to itself. This has become so rare that it should be underlined – says Arnaud. He most enjoys the Sava promenade, Kalemegdan fortress park, Tašmajdan and Knez Mihailova Street: - I love the laidback nature of Belgrade while I drink my Sunday coffee in the old town, reading the daily newspaper. I enjoy my daily conversations with my friends. From socialising with Serbs I have learned a lot about them, but I’ve also learned about myself, about my background and the ways in which I react that I believed were universal, but which I now know are only French. Contact with others represents a treasure, provided you approach them with openness, tolerance and respect for diversity. Asked how difficult it is for someone to come from the West and find their way in the Serbian way of life, mentality, customs, he explains that “the French and the Serbs are Europeans and they have common origins, but regardless of that, they have their own character." - What surprised me in the character of the Serbian nation was its courage and tenacity, two
features directly inherited from a history marked by five centuries of slavery and resistance. The generosity and hospitality of the Serbs showed me their deep compassion. I experienced that same hospitality, despite the difficult circumstances in which they live, during every visit to Kosovo. It goes from a glass of brandy, which is served on arrival, to receiving an unknown stranger into your house to stay. I love the Serbian people, but I must admit that, for a Frenchman like me, living in Serbia is not always easy, especially in performing everyday tasks. In Serbia everything is done at the last moment, hurried and in great haste. Predicting, assuming, anticipating, organizing – here those ideas are classed as utopia! That Serbian disorganization or, rather “hurried work”, goes hand in hand with what we could euphemise as unreliable accuracy. It took me several months to figure out that five Serbian minutes are worth 30 French minutes, while 30 Serbian minutes are equivalent to my two hours... Now when I make an appointment “for 30 minutes” I come in two hours... and again I usually get there first! I have completely fit in with the Serbian way of life – claims Arnaud. Jelena TASIĆ
People’s diplomacy
- De Gaulle once said “there is no friendship among nations, only interests”. When it comes to states, de Gaulle was probably right. However, in addition to state diplomacy there is also people’s diplomacy, which represents sincere feelings of friendship among nations. That feeling does not care about the economic and geopolitical interests of the state leadership. In World War I the French and the Serbs were not merely allies who fought against a common enemy, they were real brothers who lived and died side by side in the trenches. These historical links do not have to be only a thing of the past, but rather we can and must foster them in the present and the future. A friendship is a relationship that we nurture every day and because of that the goal of our organization, beside all the humanitarian missions, is to awaken the French to that long dormant relationship which existed between our two nations. Connections established by history are not broken so easily. Serbia is truly at a crossroads. It is at the start of a significant phase in its history, embarking on a new historical path. The challenges are serious, much needs to be built, much needs to be preserved. For this alchemical process the modern Serbia will emerge, based on traditional foundations. Serbia – those are the roots without which nothing would make sense, but also the wings with which it will take off and overcome everything that troubles it – concludes Gouillon.
BelGuest Summer | Leto 2014
35
Arno Gujon, direktor nevladine humanitarne orhanizacije „Solidarnost za Kosovo“
SRBIJA - ZEMLJA SA KORENOM I KRILIMA F
rancuz Arno Gujon ima 28 godina. Rodom je iz Grenobla. Na visokoj Politehničkoj školi Univerziteta u rodnom gradu 2007. stekao je zvanje master inženjera u oblasti zaštite na radu i životne sredine. Oženjen je Ivanom, Srpkinjom rođenom u Francuskoj, s kojom već dve godine živi u Beogradu. Ovo je ukratko životna biografija direktora nevladine organizacije „Solidarnost za Kosovo“, koja već 10 godina organizuje humanitarne projekte za Srbe na Kosovu i Metohiji. - Srbiju sam zavoleo uz razgovore sa dedom i ocem o francusko-srpskom prijateljstvu, zbog čega sam saosećao sa njenim narodom kada joj je bilo najteže 1999. godine – objašnjava u razgovoru za BelGuest Arno Gujon. Pogrom nad Srbima na Kosovu i Metohiji 17. marta 2004. bio je „okidač“. Tada je odlučio da osnuje humanitarnu organizaciju za pomoć Srbima u enklavama na Kosovu i Metohiji. Događaje, iskustva i uspomene tokom protekle decenije opisao je u knjizi „Svi moji putevi vode ka Srbiji“, koju je nedavno objavio Službeni glasnik. - Naša organizacija danas okuplja 8.000 donatora i 30 dobrovoljaca. Većina su Francuzi, što je veliki uspeh. Uspeli smo da se obratimo Francuzima, pokazali im da Srbi nisu „zveri“, kako su bili predstavljeni u javosti, nego divni ljudi, bliski Francuzima, kojima treba naša solidarnost. Broj donatora predstavlja krug prijatelja koji se stalno širi. Oni nam garantuju potpunu slobodu delovaja i nezavisnost. Mi nikada nismo tražili subvencije od javnih organizacija, ambasada, regija, države, Evrope... U početku bi bilo svakako lakše sa državnim novcem, al i subvencija može da veže ruke i da diktira šta će se raditi, što nikako nismo hteli da prihvatimo – ističe Gujon. Kaže da je razmišljao o životu i na Kosovu i Metohiji, ali se ipak odlučio za Beograd: - Volim Kosovo i Metohiju, tamo idemo svake tri nedelje, ponekad i češće. Poznajem skoro sva sela, imam mnogo prijatelja i osećam se kao kod kuće. Međutim, kako zbog pratktičnih razloga, bliskosti sa Francuskom i Ivaninim rodnom mestom, tako i zbog drugih projekata koje želim da vodim u Beogradu, odlučili smo da se nastanemo u prestonici Srbije. Arno Gujon smatra da je u Beogradu najprivlačnija njegova duša. - U vreme sveprisutnijeg uniformisanja glavnih gradova Evrope, smatram da je Beograd sačuvao svoju specifičnost, što je izuzetno vredno, da je negovao originalnu arhitekturu... Duh Beograda je opšteprisutan, jer je svaki Beograđanin nosilac delića njegove kulture. Beograd nije najlepši grad koji sam posetio. Ekonomski gledano nije ni najperspektivniji. Ipak, Beograd je ostao veran sebi. To je postalo dovoljno retko da treba da se podvuče – smatra Arno Gujon. Najviše mu se dopadaju savska šetališta, Kalemegdan, Tašmajdan i Knez Mihailova ulica: - Volim opuštenost Beograda dok nedeljom pijem kafu u Starom gradu, čitajući dnevne novine. Uživam u svakodnevnim razgovorima sa svojim prijateljima. Iz druženja sa Srbima saznao sam mnogo toga o njima, ali sam saznao i o sebi, o svome poreklu i načinima na koje reagujem, za koje sam verovao da su univerzalni, ali su
36
Summer | Leto 2014 BelGuest
Srbija – to su koreni bez kojih ništa ne bi imalo smisla, ali su to i krila kojima će uzleteti i prevazići sve ono što joj smeta.
ipak samo francuski. Kontakt sa drugima predstavlja bogatstvo, pod uslovom da im pristupate sa otvorenošću, tolerancijom i poštovanjem različitosti. Na pitanje koliko je teško nekome ko dođe sa Zapada da se ukopi u srpski način života, mentalitet, običaje, odgovra da su „Francuzi i Srbi Evropljani i da im je poreklo zajedničko, ali da bez obzira na to, imaju svoj karakter“. - Ono što me iznenadilo u karakteru srpskog naroda su njegova hrabrost i istrajnost, dve odlike neposredno nasleđene iz istorije koju je obeležilo pet vekova ropstva i otpora. Darežljivost i gostoprimstvo Srba su me duboko ganule. To isto gostoprimstvo, bez obzira na teške okolosti u kojima žive, doživao sam prilikom svakog boravka na Kosovu. Ono ide od čašice rakije, koja se služi na dolasku, do primanja u kuću na konačište nepoznatog stranca. Ja volim srpski narod, ali ipak moram priznati da za jednog Francuza, poput mene, život u Srbiji nije uvek jednostavan, pogotovo u obavljanju svakodnevnih poslova. U Srbiji se sve radi u poslednjem trenutku, na brzu ruku i u žurbi. Predvideti, pretpostaviti, anticipirati, organizovati – ovde to naprosto spada u utopiju! Ta srpska dezorganizacija ili, bolje rečeno, „poslovanje na brzinu“ ide uporedo sa, blago rečeno, nepouzdanom tačnošću. Bilo mi je potrebno nekoliko meseci da shvatim da srpskih pet vredi 30 francuskih minuta, dok 30 srpskih minuta iznosi mojih dva sata... Sada, kada mi zakažu sastanak „kroz 30 minuta“, ja dolazim kroz dva sata... i opet uglavnom stignem prvi! Potpuno sam se uklopio u srpski način života – tvrdi Arno Gujon. Jelena TASIĆ
Narodna diplomatija
- De Gol je jednom rekao „Među državama ne postoji prijateljsvto, postoje samo zajednički interesi“. Što se tiče država, De Gol je verovatno bio u pravu. Ali, pored državne diplomatije postoji i narodna diplomatija koja predstavlja iskren osećaj prijateljstva među narodima. Taj osećaj ne mari za ekonomske ili geopolitičke interese vrha države. Francuzi i Srbi u Prvom svetskom ratu nisu bili samo saveznici koji su se borili protiv istog neprijatelja, oni su bili i prava braća koja su živela i ginula jedan pored drugog u rovovima. Te istorijske veze ne moraju da budu samo stvar prošlosti, nego moramo i možemo da ih negujemo u sadašnjosti i u budućnosti. Prijateljstvo je odnos koji se neguje svakog dana i zbog toga cilj naše organizacije i jeste, pored svih humanitarnih misija, da u Francuskoj probudimo te predugo uspavane veze koje su postojale između naša dva naroda. Veze koje je uspostavila istorija, ne raskidaju se tako lako. Srbija je zaista na raskršću puteva. Ona je na početku značajne faze u svojoj istoriji, na početku novog istorijskog puta. Izazovi su ozbiljni, potrebno je mnogo toga izgraditi, treba mnogo toga sačuvati. Iz tog alhemijskog procesa pojaviće se moderna Srbija, postavljena na tradicionalnim temeljima. Srbija – to su koreni bez kojih ništa ne bi imalo smisla, ali su to i krila kojima će uzleteti i prevazići sve ono što joj smeta - smatra Arno Gujon.
BelGuest Summer | Leto 2014
37
B ra ć a B urazeri . B rothers in real life .
BELGRADE AS AN INEXHAUSTIBLE INSPIRATION When we get used to something becoming an inseparable part of our lives, we stop wondering whose imagination is behind the details that please the eye. We turn on the TV, sit at the pizza restaurant, open a bottle of wine, leaf through papers, scratch off a lottery ticket, we stay up for the Night of the Museums, receive a party invitation, dance in a club. For instance. Logo, print, label, casing, Braća Burazeri (NB: in Serbian, both words mean “brothers”) are unconsciously designing our lifestyle.
W
ho Braća Burazeri are or how did they sneak into out lives without us even noticing. The Cultural Centre “Parobrod” hosted their first independent exhibition this April. On the occasion, they were distributing booklets, an outstanding portfolio of recognizable design. The welcome page says the following: “Hello! We are Nikola and Nenad Radojčić. Brothers in real life. Braća Burazeri. You may know us personally, or by the Dechkotzar T-shirts that we make. In this booklet, you will see the works you probably never knew were created by us. From a little bit of everything, a lot has been gathered.” Then we start turning the pages and our surprise keeps rising with every new page we turn: “That was done by them too!” Yellow Cab, Pizza Bar, State Lottery of Serbia, The Night of the Museums, The Festival of Science, Tube, Sound, #SamoKažem (#Just Saying), Insider, Otvorena vrata (Open Doors)... just a small part of a long list. “A colleague who was present at the opening of the exhibition asked us: How many of you are there anyways? How do you manage to
38
Summer | Leto 2014 BelGuest
do all of that? We work a lot, we get along well and, of course, the fact that we are brothers helps. All of these things combined support the achievement of the results we are satisfied with,” they say. DECHKOTZAR, A LIFESTYLE They a significant trace in the world of design, however they are somehow still best recognized by the Dechkotzar T-shirts. DTZR is a local brand. There is no mass hysteria around it, it produced in limited series, and it is being worn by an exclusive group of people who know how to do it. They made a video in search for answer to the question of who Dechkotzar is. The description says: “Dechkotzar is not a super hero; he is just a regular guy with the right values who represents Belgrade in the best light possible.” Famous city faces as protagonists of the movie and loyal DTZR buyers, explain how, why and how often Dechkotzar T-shirts are worn, who are they gifted to, what the advantages and what the disadvantages are (besides the risk that someone will steal
your favourite piece). They work to satisfy their own taste and meet their own requirements. This is already something that prevents mistakes. “The point is that we are designing something that we ourselves like, rather than trying to indulge the popular trend, clients’ requests or orders. We work for ourselves. This is our safety valve and the opportunity to explore new areas in the field of typography, illustration and printing. It is important to us that the T-shirts are of high quality, well tailored, with the quality print and that the people like wearing them, cause; when you put a T-shirt on, it simply fits well,” explain Burazeri. Various motives and messages found their place on the T-shirts. The first DTZR T-shirt with the logo of the band Red Zmaja (Order of the Dragon) is well known, however, the most recognizable is the one with Gaga Nikolić as Flojd, while the most inspiring motif is Belgrade. ‘Cause, while they are adapting it according to their needs, Belgrade responds with inexhaustible energy. Dragana Barjaktarević
P rava bra ć a . B ra ć a B urazeri .
BEOGRAD JE NEISTROŠIVA INSPIRACIJA Kad nešto postane podrazumevano parče života, ni ne pitamo se čija mašta stoji iza detalja koji raduju oko. Uključimo TV, sednemo u piceriju, otvorimo flašu vina, prelistamo novine, izgrebemo srećku, ostanemo budni u Noći muzeja, dobijemo pozivnicu za žurku, plešemo u klubu. Recimo. Logo, print, etiketa, omot, Braća Burazeri nesvesno nam dizajniraju svakodnevicu.
K
o su Braća Burazeri ili kako su nam se uvukli u živote a da to ni ne slutimo. U aprilu je u Ustanovi kulture „Parobrod“ otvorena njihova prva samostalna izložba. Tom prilikom delili su knjižice, svojevrstan portfolio prepoznatljivog dizajna. Na pozdravnoj strani ovako piše: „Hello! Mi smo Nikola i Nenad Radojčić. Prava braća. Braća Burazeri. Možda nas poznajete lično, a možda po Dechkotzar majicama koje pravimo. U ovoj knjižici upoznaćete i radove za koje verovatno niste znali da smo ih kreirali. Od svega pomalo, nakupilo se dosta.“ I onda krenemo da prelistavamo i sa svakom novom stranom iznenađenost uzlazno raste: „I to su oni radili!“. Yellow Cab, Pizza Bar, Državna lutrija Srbije, Noć muzeja, Festival nauke, Tube, Sound, #SamoKažem, Insajder, Otvorena vrata... tek je delić sa podužeg popisa. „Jedan kolega koji je bio na otvaranju izložbe pitao nas je: Koliko je, bre, vas tamo? Kako sve postižete? Mnogo radimo, dobro se
slažemo i svakako nije naodmet to što smo braća. Sve to zajedno pomaže da dođemo do rezultata kojima smo zadovoljni“, kažu oni. DECHKOTZAR, STIL ŽIVOTA Mnoge tragove ostavili su u svetu dizajna, ali nekako su ipak najprepoznatljiviji po Dechkotzar majicama. DTZR je lokalni brend. Oko njega se ne razvija masovna histerija, radi se u limitiranim serijama, a nosi ga probrana ekipa onih koji to umeju. Snimili su video u kom tragaju za odgovorom ko je Dechkotzar. U opisu stoji: „Dechkotzar nije super heroj, on je običan momak koji gaji dobre vrednosti i predstavlja Beograd u najboljem svetlu.“ Gradske „face“ kao protagonisti filma, a verni DTZR potrošači, objašnjavaju kako se i zašto i u kojim količinama nose Dechkotzar majice, kome se poklanjaju, koje su prednosti i ima li nedostataka (pored rizika da vam neko ukrade omiljeni komad).
Rade da udovolje svom ukusu i po merilima nosivosti kakvu sami zahtevaju. I to je već prepreka javljanju grešaka. „Poenta je u tome da dizajniramo nešto što se nama dopada, a ne da podilazimo opšteprihvaćenom trendu, zahtevima klijenata ili naručenim poslovima. Radimo za sebe. To je naš ventil i mogućnost da otvaramo nove prostore na polju tipografije, ilustracije i štampe. Ono što nam je važno jeste da majice budu kvalitetne, dobro skrojene, da je kvalitetna štampa i da ljudi vole da ih nose, jer kad obučeš majicu, ona ti, jednostavno, dobro stoji“, objašnjavaju Burazeri. Različiti motivi i poruke našli su se na majicama. Čuvena je prva DTZR majica sa logom benda Red Zmaja, najpoznatija je možda ona na kojoj je Gaga Nikolić kao Flojd, ali svakako najinspirativniji motiv je Beograd. Jer dok ga oblikuju po svojoj meri, on im uzvraća neistrošivom energijom. Dragana Barjaktarević
A D V E N T U R E S
O N
R I V E R S
BELGRADE IN CONTRASTS In touch with incompatibility the “Belgrade Adventure” has located itself – in the heart of the city, but far enough away from the concrete and the noise. All summer, for three years already, the worthy boys of the Wild Serbia organisation have offered citizens the opportunity to fall in love with their city even more, while tourists are offered views that encompass the entire white city.
I
n cooperation with the Tourist Organisation of Belgrade, Wild Serbia has organised the “Belgrade Adventure” on the rivers of the metropolis. “Belgrade offers plenty of adventure. Given that the city is erected on two rivers, we decided that we would also take to the water,” says Ivan Nastić from Wild Serbia. They took advantage of the water wealth of the capital and devised two tours – “Six Sava Bridges” and “Kayaking around Great War Island”. They opted for these tours because they offer sufficient contrasts to be appealing to people with different interests. Who wants to can relax in the waters around the green heart of Belgrade. Others, however, can get to know the city from a new angle, passing under many Belgrade bridges with different architecture and histories. TWO RIVERS IN TWO TALES The first tour, “Six Sava Bridges” starts at 12 noon on the Sava quay and heads towards the confluence with the Danube. This route has alternating
40
Summer | Leto 2014 BelGuest
sun and shade, which is made by the Bridge on Ada, the new and old railway bridges, Gazale Bridge, the old Sava Bridge and Branko's Bridge. The adventure ends at the Barakuda raft bar, providing solid ground after two hours competing with the currents of the river. After that, at 5pm, from Barakuda, driven by the dynamics of the Danube, the second tour embarks. “Kayaking around Greta War Island” offers four hours filled with contrasts. This route combines wild and urban, adrenaline and tranquillity, tough upstream paddling and downstream relaxation, hot sun and fresh water which splashes awkwardly over one’s legs while paddling. After four hours paddling around War Islands and a short break on Lido Beach, the kayakers return to Barakuda. KAYAKING FOR ALL GENERATIONS These kayakers are also diverse, because the prerequisites for participation in this small regatta are not age, weight, physical fitness or skill. “These tours are primarily adapted to beginners. Families
with children over six years old often come. And we’ve also had participants over 75 years old. In this case the tempo is slower. The Danube side of the island is so relaxing and peaceful that it has happened that participants have fallen asleep briefly in their kayak. They dangle their feet in the water and rest their head on the comfortable, rubber part of the boat. Of course, the guide is awake and there to alert those who get too close or too far from the bank...” says Ivan. Of course, it is also easily explained to those who want a more dynamic adventure how they can safely exhaust themselves. Foreigners also come often and according to Wild Serbia they have so far had the same number of foreigners as locals. The highest number of foreign tourists has come from the Netherlands, the UK and Scandinavia, which is somehow logical in the hot days of Belgrade when one considers the climate of their countries. At that time it is essential for everyone to freshen up a bit. Dragana Barjaktarević Photo: Wild Serbia
AVANTURE NA REKAMA
BEOGRAD U KONTRASTIMA U dodiru nespojivosti smestila se „Beogradska avantura“ – u srcu grada, ali dovoljno udaljena od betona i buke. Celo leto, pa puta već tri godine, vrli momci iz organizacije Wild Serbia pružaju sugrađanima priliku da zavole svoj grad još više, a turistima pogled u koji staje cela bela prestonica.
U
saradnji sa Turističkom organizacijom Beograda, Wild Serbia na rekama velegrada organizuje „Beogradsku avanturu“. „Beograd nudi pregršt avantura. Budući da grad plovi na dve reke, odlučili smo da i mi zaplovimo“, kaže Ivan Nastić iz Wild Serbia. Iskoristili su vodena blaga prestonice i osmislili dve ture – „Šest mostova Save“ i „Kajaking oko Ratnog ostrva“. Opredelili su se ove teme zato što su dovoljno kontrastne da budu zanimljive ljudima različitih initersovanja. Ko želi može da se opusti u plovidbi oko zelenog srca Beograda. Drugi, pak, mogu da upoznaju grad iz jednog novog ugla, prolazeći ispod brojnih beogradskih mostova različite arhitekture i istorije. DVE REKE U DVE PRIČE Prva tura „Šest mostova Save“ polazi u 12 časova sa Savskog keja i kreće se ka Ušću. Smenjuju se na toj trasi sunce i hladovina koju prave Most
na Adi, Novi i Stari železnički most, Gazela, Stari savski most i Brankov most. Avantura se završava na splavu Barakuda, čvrsto tle posle dva sata nadmetanja sa rečnim strujama. Nakon toga, u 17 časova, sa Barakude, vođena dinamikom Dunava, počinje druga tura „Kajaking oko Ratnog ostrva“ i četiri sata ispunjena kontrastima. Udruže se na toj plovidbi divlje i urbano, adrenalin i spokoj, naporno uzvodno i opušteno nizvodno, vrelo sunce i sveža voda kojom nespretno veslo zapljuskuje noge u kajaku. Nakon četvoročasovnog veslanja oko Ratnog ostrva i kratkog predaha na plaži Lido, kajakaši se vraćaju na Barakudu. KAJAKING ZA SVE GENERACIJE A kajakaši su raznoliki, jer preduslov za učešće u toj maloj regati nisu godine, težina, kondicija ili umešnost. „Ture su pre svega prilagođene početnicima. Često dolaze porodice sa decom
starijom od šest godina. A imali smo i učesnike starije od 75 godina. Tempo je u tom slučaju sporiji. Dunavska strana ostrva toliko opušta i mirna je da se događalo da učesnici nakratko dremnu u kajaku. Potope noge u vodu, a glavu naslone na udobni, gumeni deo čamca. Naravno, vodič je budan i tu da probudi one koji se suviše približe ili udalje od obale...“, kaže Ivan. Naravno, i onima koji žele dinamičniju avanturu lako objasne kako mogu bezbedno da se umore. Često im se i stranci javljaju. Kažu iz Wild Serbia da su do sada imali podjednak broj stranaca i sugrađana. Najveći broj stranih turista dolazio je iz Holandije, Britanije i Skandinavije, što je u vrele beogradske dane nekako i logično s obzirom na klimu njihovih zemalja. Neophodno nam je tada svima da se malo osvežimo. Dragana Barjaktarević Foto: Wild Serbia
N E W
T O U R
O F F E R
“ N I K O L A
T E S L A ’ S
W A Y S ”
JUNE DAYS OF ENTHUSIASM Way back on the 1st of June 1892, Nikola Tesla arrived on a visit to Belgrade. The Cluster of cultural routes and Glob Metropolitan Tours have, inspired by Tesla’s “June Days”, revived his visit and reminded of the atmosphere of enthusiasm that swept over Belgrade back then. Today the legacy of the Serb of world renown is preserved in the Nikola Tesla Museum and is inscribed on UNESCO’s “Memory of the World Register”.
H
uss and fuss at the Belgrade Railway Station. The great Nikola Tesla is arriving, so a proper welcome celebration needs to be arranged. He is welcomed by Đorđe Stanojević, rector of the University in Belgrade and one of the key Serbian scientists of the time. It was at his invitation that Tesla visited his own country. He is staying at the hotel “Imperial” located on the present-day Students Square. The following morning Tesla leaves for the Old Court for reception with King Aleksandar Obrenović. As Tesla will later write, he discussed his discoveries with the young king, but also the life of a Serb in the far-off land of America. After the meeting with the king, he gives a lecture about alternating current to the students of the Belgrade Great School, the predecessor of the University of Belgrade. Then he takes a walk at Kalemegdan Park. As he enjoys the view of the Sava and the Danube confluence, the sounds of an orchestra and the song of a chorus follow. Belgradians are cheering him. The same evening a dinner, attended by the most notable personalities, is hosted in the garden of Weifert’s brewery. Tesla's favourite poet Jovan Jovanović Zmaj is among the attendees. At the banquet is reading his passionate verses dedicated to Tesla's arrival to Serbia. Visibly excited, Nikola Tesla said on the occasion: “I have some ideas, I hope I will manage to bring them to life, and when I do, the world will have to bow to that, while the fact that it will be the work of a Serb will give me the greatest happiness.” VISIONS OF THE MAN OF LIGHT The tourist tour starts at the Nikola Tesla Museum with the screening of a film. As a part of the precious legacy, the objects alone testify about Tesla's personality and his achievements: original documents, photographs, books, magazines, historical and technical items… The next stop on the map is the Faculty of Electrical Engineering. Tesla's statue is located in front of the Faculty, while the exhibition ”Tesla's Vision of Internet” can be seen at the lobby, which makes us wonder whether humankind could have obtained a forerunner of today’s communication technologies even at the beginning of the 20th century. The Faculty also keeps various devices that contain Tesla’s patents. They are located in century-old teaching rooms that have been first opened for public this year. KEEPING TRACK WITH TESLA The programme continues on foot. All the places visited by the great mind on 2nd June 1892 are revisited: the Old Court, National Museum, Kalemegdan Park... A visit is also paid to the Museum of Science and Technology, which contains the first public plant for production of electrical energy in the Kingdom of Serbia. The walk ends at the “Square Nine” hotel, located not far from the spot that once used to be occupied by the building of the hotel “Imperial”, where Tesla had stayed. Here, those on tour are offered the cake named “Electricity“ with inscription of the formula for the unit of magnetic flux density, which carries Tesla’s name. Dragana Barjaktarević
42
Summer | Leto 2014 BelGuest
NOVA TURISTIČKA TURA „PUTEVIMA NIKOLE TESLE“
JUNSKI DANI ODUŠEVLJENJA 1. juna davne 1892. godine, Nikola Tesla je doputovao u posetu Beogradu. Klаstеr puteva kulture i Glоb mеtrоpоlitеn tours su, inspirisani Teslinom „junskim danima“, oživeli njegov boravak i podsetili na atmosferu oduševljenja koja je vladala Beogradom. Ostavština „Srbina svetskog glasa” danas se čuva u Muzeju Nikole Tesle i nalazi se na Uneskovoj listi „Pamćenje sveta“.
N
a Železničkoj stanici u Beogradu trka i strka. Stiže veliki Nikola Tesla, pa valja upriličiti dostojanstvenu svečanost. Dočekuje ga Đorđe Stanojević, rektor Univerziteta u Beogradu i jedan od ključnih naučnika Srbije tog vremena. Na njegov poziv Tesla je i došao u svoju zemlju. Odseda u hotelu „Imperijal“ koji se nalazio na današnjem Studentskom trgu. Sledećeg jutra Tesla kreće u Stari dvor na audijenciju kod kralja Aleksandra Obrenovića. S „mladim kraljem“, kako će Tesla kasnije pisati, razgovara o svojim otkrićima, ali i o tome kako se jedan Srbin snalazi u dalekoj Americi. Nakon susreta s kraljem, studentima Velike škole drži predavanje o naizmeničnoj struji. Potom se šeta Kalemegdanom. Dok uživa u pogledu na ušće Save u Dunav, prate ga zvuci orkestra i pojanje hora. Beograđani mu kliču. Uveče se priprema večera u bašti Vajfertove pivare, na koju dolaze najviđeniji ljudi. Među njima je i Teslin omiljeni pesnik – Jovan Jovanović Zmaj, koji na banketu čita svoje, žarom protkane stihove, posvećene Teslinom dolasku u Srbiju. Vidno uzbuđen, Nikola Tesla je tada rekao: „Imam neke ideje, nadam se da ću ih oživotvoriti, pa kad uspijem, svijet će se tome morati pokloniti, a za mene će to biti najveća sreća, što će to biti delo jednog Srbina.’’ VIZIJE ČOVEKA SVETLOSTI Turistička tura počinje u Muzeju Nikole Tesle projekcijom filma. O Teslinojj ličnosti i delima pripovedaju i sami predmeti koji su deo dragocene zaostavštine: originalni dokumenti, fotografije, knjige, časopisi, istorijsko-tehnički eksponati... Naredna tačka na karti je Elektrotehnički fakultet. Ispred fakulteta se nalazi Teslin spomenik, a u holu se može pogledati izložba„Teslina vizija interneta“, koja nas tera da se zapitamo da li je čovečanstvo još početkom 20. veka moglo da dobije preteču današnjih komunikacionih tehnologija. Fakultet, takođe, čuva različite uređaje koji u sebi nose Tesline patente. Oni se nalaze u stogodišnjim kabinetima, koji se ove godine po prvi put otvaraju za javnost. U KORAK S TESLOM Program se nastavlja pešačkom turom. Obilaze se sva ona mesta koja je velikan posetio tog 2. juna 1892. godine: Stari dvor, Narodni muzej, Kalemegdan... Svraća se i do Muzeja nauke i tehnike, u čijoj zgradi se nalazila prva javna centrala za proizvodnju električne energije u Kraljevini Srbiji. Šetnja se završava u hotelu „Square Nine“ koji se nalazi nedaleko od mesta na kojem je nekada bilo zdanje hotela „Imperijal“ u kojem je Tesla odseo. Pohodioce ture ovde čeka kolač „Elektricitet" sa ispisanom formulom jedinice magnetne indukcije koja nosi Teslino ime. Dragana Barjaktarević
BelGuest Summer | Leto 2014
43
A
C L O S E R
L O O K
–
B E L G R A D E
S I G H T S E E I N G
WALKING DOWN OLD TOWN AND BELGRADE FORTRESS
KROZ BEOGRADSKU VAROŠ I BEOGRADSKU TVRĐAVU
A MAP OF FAVOURITE PLACES
MAPA OMILJENIH MESTA
A WALK IN OLD ZEMUN
ŠETNJA STARIM ZEMUNOM
Once on the very border of the two empires, Zemun still gives impression of the atmosphere of the Austrian-Hungarian Empire. Gardoš Tower, offering a panoramic view of the Danube, is the symbol of this extraordinary city. Valuable edifices and ambiences of Old Zemun are a must-visit for tourists. This includes visits to the Franciscan monastery, walk through the park, Magistracy Square, visit to the Nikolaj church... The tour ends with a stroll on the beautifully landscaped Zemun quay, on the banks of the Danube River. Info: www.tob.rs, www.tczemun.rs
Nekada na samoj granici dva carstva, Zemun i danas odiše atmosferom Austrougraske carevine. Simbol ovog posebnog grada je kula Gardoš s predivnim panoramskim pogledom na Dunav. Turistički obilazak vrednih zdanja i ambijenata starog Zemuna, između ostalog, uključuje posetu Franjevačkom samostanu, šetnju Gradskim parkom, Magistratskim trgom, posetu Nikolajevskoj crkvi... Tura se završava šetnjom na predivno uređenom Zemunskom keju, na obali Dunava. Info: www.tob.rs, www.tczemun.rs
A MILLENNIUM TOWER AT GARDOŠ
MILENIJUMSKA KULA NA GARDOŠU
The tower on the highest hill in Zemun was built in the late 19th century by the Hungarians as a memorial to one millennium of the Hungarian statehood. The Millennium Tower edifice is located within the ruins of the medieval fortress. Today there is a photo gallery Čubrilo and an exhibition space dedicated to the world famous scientist Milutin Milanković. One of the most attractive parts is the terrace offering one of the most beautiful views of the Danube, Zemun and Belgrade. Info: www.tob.rs, www.kulanagardosu.com
Kulu na najvišem zemunskom bregu podigli su krajem 19. veka Mađari kao memorijalni spomenik hiljadugodišnjice Ugarske državnosti. Zdanje Milenijumske kule podignuto je unutar ruševena srednjovekovne tvrđave. Danas se u njoj nalazi foto-galerija Čubrilo i izložbeni prostor posvećen velikanu svetske nauke Milutinu Milankoviću. Jedan od najatraktivnijih delova je terasa sa koje se pruža jedan od najlepših pogledan na Dunav, Zemun i Beograd. Info: www.tob.rs, www.kulanagardosu.com
The best way to feel a city is to walk down its streets. This walking tour will introduce you to some of the city’s historical landmarks, but also some of the favourite places of Belgrade residents: Albania Palace, Republic Square, Knez Mihailova Street, Kralja Petra Street, where the cult “Question Mark” Inn is located, Cathedral Church, Patriarchy Palace, Residence of Princess Ljubica, Pariska Street and Belgrade Fortress looking watchfully over the city. Info: www.tob.rs
44
Summer | Leto 2014 BelGuest
Najbolji način da se oseti jedna varoš jeste šetnja njegovima ulicama. U okviru ove šetnje obilaze se istorijske okosnice, ali i omiljena mesta Beograđana: Palata Albanija, Trg Republike, Knez Mihailova, Ulica kralja Petra, u njoj kultna kafana Znak pitanja, Saborna crkva, Patrijaršijski dvor, Konak kneginje Ljubice, Pariska ulica i na kraju Beogradska tvrđava koji bdi nad gradom. Info: www.tob.rs
P O G L E D
I Z B L I Z A
-
R A Z G L E D A N J A
B E O G R A D A
ROYAL PALACES
KRALJEVSKI DVOROVI
The palace complex of the Karađorđević Dynasty in Dedinje includes the Royal Palace and the White Palace. In addition to these two magnificent mansions and the park, the visitors, accompanied by a specialized tour guide, will also visit the chapel dedicated to St Andrew the Apostle, who is the patron saint of the Royal Family. Departure: every Saturday and Sunday from 9 April through 31 October in two regular times. Info: www. tob.co.rs, www.kraljevina.org
Dvorski kompleks dinastije Karađorđević na Dedinju sastoji se od Kraljevskog i Belog dvora. Pored dva velelepna zdanja i parka, posetioci, uz pratnju profesionalnih turistickih vodica, obilaze i dvorsku kapelu posvećenu Sv. Andreju Prvozvanom, zaštitniku kraljevske porodice. Polasci svake subote i nedelje od 1. aprila do 31.oktobra. Info: www. tob.co.rs, www.kraljevina.org
BS TOURS & LASTA OPEN TOP
BS TOURS & LASTA OPEN TOP
One of the favourite ways to get to know the city is sightseeing by tourist buses. Bus tours depart daily from the Nikola Pašić Square. The most beautiful metropolitan areas are visited – King Aleksandar Boulevard, Slavija Square, Terazije, Republic Square, Students Square, Savamala, Branko's bridge, Ada Bridge... The tour includes an audio-guide. Info: www.tob.rs www.bstours.rs/razgledanje www.visitbelgradelasta.com
Jedan od omiljenih načina za upoznavanje gradova jeste panoramsko razgledanje iz turističkih autobusa. Autobuske ture svakodnevno polaze sa Trga Nikole Pašića. Obilaze se najmarkatnijie gradske zone - Bulevar kralja Aleksandra, Trg Slavija, Terazije, Trg Republike, Studentski trg, Savamala, Brankov most, Most na Adi... Obilazak upotpunjuje priča sa audio-vodiča. Info: www.tob.rs www.bstours.rs/razgledanje www.visitbelgradelasta.com
FROM THE HEART OF THE CITY TO AVALA MOUNTAIN
IZ SRCA GRADA DO AVALE
A mini trip on an open tourist bus departs from Nikola Pašić Square. The half-hour sightseeing tour includes visit to Topčider Park, Prince Miloš Dormitory and the Church of St. Peter and Paul. The ride continues with a visit to the Avala and the restored television tower with the most attractive belvedere throughout the country. Info: www.tob.rs www.visitbelgradelasta.com
Mini izlet otvorenim turističkim autobusom polazi sa Trga Nikole Pašića. Polusatno razgledanje grada uz obilazak Topčiderskog parka, Konaka kneza Miloša i crkve sv. Petra i Pavla, nastavlja se vožnjom do Avale i posetom obnovljenom televizijskom tornju s najatraktivnijim vidikovcem u čitavoj zemlji. Info: www.tob.rs www.visitbelgradelasta.com
BelGuest Summer | Leto 2014
45
A
C L O S E R
L O O K
–
B E L G R A D E
S I G H T S E E I N G
BELGRADE BY MINIBUS
KROZ BEOGRAD MINIBUSOM
Regularly, you can take on a panoramic sightseeing of Belgrade in English on every working day as well as on Saturdays. The tour departs from in front of the Balkan Hotel. The sightseeing can be arranged on Sundays and on holidays, with prior notice. Be sure to take a photo at the Saint Sava Temple, and the mini van will stop at other places where you can take beautiful photos. Info: www.tob.rs www.metropoliten.com
Redovno, panoramsko razgledanje Beograda na engleskom jeziku realizuje se svakog radnog dana, kao i subotom. Tura polazi ispred hotela „Balkan”. Razgledanje je moguće organizovati i nedeljom, kao i praznicima, uz prethodnu najavu. Obavezno mesto za fotografisanje je hram Svetog Save, a minibus se zaustavlja i na drugim mestima koja su lepa za fotografisanje. Info: www.tob.rs www.metropoliten.com
A STREETCAR NAMED BELGRADE
TRAMVAJ ZVANI BEOGRAD
“A Streetcar Named Belgrade” sightseeing tour is one that catches Belgrade on the run, from tram rails. The route starts at the turn at the Zoo Park, at Tadeuša Košćuška Street, stopping at Kalemegdan, on the dwarf, in Karađorđeva Street, Nemanjina Street, Resavska Street, Kralja Aleksandra Boulevard, Kraljice Marije Street, Džordža Vašingtona Street, Cara Dušana Street. The tour is accompanied by an interesting story of a guide on the city’s history, its architecture and the life of Belgrade citizens. Info: www.tob.rs
„Tramvaj zvani Beograd“ obilazak je koji lovi Beograd iz pokreta, sa tramvajskih šina. Maršruta kreće sa okretnice kod Zoološkog vrta, ulica Tadeuša Košćuška, a zadržava se kod Kalemegdana, na pristaništu, u Karađorđevoj ulici, Nemanjinoj, Bulevaru kralja Aleksandra, Kraljice Marije, Džordža Vašingtona, Cara Dušana. A put prati zanimljiva priča vodiča o istoriji grada, arhitekturi i životu Beograđana. Info: www.tob.rs
ON WAVES
TALASANJE
Belgrade is one of the few cities lying on the two rivers. Therefore, it is always tempting to get to know the city from its two rivers, the Sava and the Danube. The yachting club “Kej” organises two-hour river tours during which you can relax and enjoy the city from water. To have a complete enjoyment, there is a music programme and dinner à la carte. Info: www.tob.rs www.klubkej.com
Beograd je jedan od retkih gradova koji leže na dve reke. Zato je uvek primamljivo upoznati ga upravo sa talasa Save i Dunava. Jahting Klub Kej organizuje dva sata opuštanja i uživanja na vodi uz panoramsko razgledanje grada. Da bi ugođaj bio potpun, tu su muzički program i večera a la carte. Info: www.tob.rs www.klubkej.com
46
Summer | Leto 2014 BelGuest
P O G L E D
I Z B L I Z A
-
R A Z G L E D A N J A
B E O G R A D A
KOVIN – A BOAT WITH A STORY
KOVIN - BROD SA PRIČOM
In a quiet sailing on the Danube and the Sava, you will see many sites of Belgrade: Belgrade fortress, Nebojša Tower, Zemun, Savamala, Tennis Centre “Novak”, river backwaters, beaches, the Great War Island, Ada Ciganlija, Ada Međica... The passenger ship “Kovin” shrank in 1922 and has the status of a protected cultural property. Info: www.tob.rs www.jrb.co.rs
U mirnoj plovidbi Dunavomi Savom videćete brojne znamenitosti Beograda: Beogradsku tvrđavu, Kulu Nebojšu, Zemun, Savamalu, Teniski centar „Novak“, rečne rukavce, plaže, Veliko ratno ostrvo, Adu Ciganliju, Adu Međicu... Putnički brod „Kovin“ porinut je 1922. godine i ima status zaštićenog kulturnog dobra. Info: www.tob.rs www.jrb.co.rs
SAILING WITH A GOOD NARRATOR
KRSTARENJE SA ZNALCEM
Belgrade's past is a life inspiration for the journalist and writer Zoran Nikolić, the author of “Belgrade under Belgrade”, “The Secret of New Belgrade”, “Masonic symbols in Belgrade” and the novel “City of Secrets”. During the two-hour sail on the Danube and Sava rivers, you will learn the details of the extraordinary history of the city. The programme is in Serbian. Info: w ww.tob.rs www.eurojet.rs www.klubkej.com
Prošlost Beograda je životna inspiracija novinara i pisca Zorana Nikolića, autora knjiga „Beograd ispod Beograda“, „Tajna Novog Beograda“, „Masonski simboli u Beogradu“ i romana „Grad tajni“. Tokom dvočasovne plovidbe Dunavom i Savom saznaćete nesvakidašnje detalje iz istoriji grada. Program se organizuje na srpskom jeziku. Info: www.tob.rs www.eurojet.rs www.klubkej.com
BELGRADE ADVENTURES
BEOGRADSKE AVANTURE
Inspired by the water wealth of the Serbian capital, Wild Serbia designed two tours “Six bridges on the Sava” and “Kayaking around the Great War Island.” The first tour, “Six bridges on the Sava” departs from the Sava quay and goes toward the confluence. The route will take you to see Ada Bridge, New and Old Railroad Bridge, Gazelle, Old Sava bridge and Branko's bridge. The adventure ends on a raft called “The Barracuda”. The second tour - “Kayaking around the Great War Island” reveals the amazing oasis of Belgrade. The Great War Island is a protected natural area of the city inhabited by rare birds and plants. Info: www.tob.rs www.wildserbia.com
Wild Serbi je je, ispirisana vodenom bogatstvom prestonice, osmislili dve ture – „Šest mostova Save“ i „Kajaking oko Ratnog ostrva“. Prva tura „Šest mostova Save“ polazi sa Savskog keja i kreće se ka Ušću. Na toj trasi smenuju se: Most na Adi, Novi i Stari železnički most, Gazela, Stari savski most i Brankov most. Avantura se završava na splavu Barakuda. Druga tura - „Kajaking oko Ratnog ostrva“ otkriva vam čudesnu oazu Beograda. Ratno ostrvo je zaštičeno prirodno dobro grada koje nastanjuju retke ptice i biljke. Info: www.tob.rs www.wildserbia.com
BelGuest Summer | Leto 2014
47
A
C L O S E R
L O O K
–
B E L G R A D E
S I G H T S E E I N G
SIGTHSEEING ON RIB BOATS
RAZGLEDANJE RIB ČAMCIMA
If you decide to get to know Belgrade rivers and the coastal area in an intimate way, you can “tailor” your own special tour. The boats are steered by professional drivers, and places that you can see from the rivers are the Belgrade Fortress, Ušće/ Confluence, Ada Ciganlija, Ada Međica, Gardoš, Zemun quay, the White Rock... If you want, you can also reach the famous archaeological site Vinča. Info: www.tob.rs www.advanceboat.com
Ukoliko se odlučite da beogradske reke i priobalje upoznate na intimniji način, možete „skrojiti” vašu posebu turu. Čamcem upravljaju profesionalni vozači, a mesta koja možete videti sa reka su Beogradska tvrđava, Ušće, Ada Ciganlija, Ada Međica, Gardoš, Zemunski kej, Bela stena... Ukoliko želite, na ovaj način možete stići i do poznatog arheološkog lokaliteta Vinča. Info: www.tob.rs www.advanceboat.com
SIGHTSEEING BY BIKE
RAZGLEDANJE GRADA BICIKLOM
Bicycle tour “iBikeBelgrade” gives you the possibility to look at different faces of Belgrade and discover its branched biking trails. The tour starts with Dorćol banks of the Danube and continues to New Belgrade. With an abundance of greenery, you will see some of the outstanding buildings of New Belgrade built in the socialist era style. The programme includes a tour of the old centre of Zemun and time-out on the Danube. A new stage begins with a ride towards the New Belgrade bank of the Sava River, where the boat enters the “green paradise of Belgrade” - Ada Ciganlija. Info: www.tob.rs www.ibikebelgrade.com
Biciklistička tura „iBikeBelgrade“ pruža vam mogućnost da sagledate različita lica Beograda i otkrijete njegove razgranate biciklističke staze. Tura kreće sa dorćolske obale Dunava i nastavlja se na Novom Beogradu. Uz obilje zelenila videćete i neke od izuzetnih novobeogradskih građevina iz doba socijalizma. Na programu je i obilazak starog jezgra Zemuna i predah na Dunavu. Nova etapa započinje vožnjom ka novobeogradskoj obali Save odakle se brodom prelazi u „zeleni raj Beograda” - Adu Ciganliju. Info: www.tob.rs www.ibikebelgrade.com
SAVAMALA – A CREATIVE DISTRICT
SAVAMALA - CREATIVE DISTRICT
Savamala is one of the oldest Belgrade neighbourhoods and one of the youngest places for design, cultural events and exciting nightlife. The walk includes visits to famous toponyms of Savamala: Belgrade Cooperative building, the Hotel Bristol, Manakov and Spanish house and other famous architectural landmarks of the neighbourhood. You can visit Savamala on two different tours: one is organised by Glob Metropolitan, and the other by Art & Tours Belgrade that puts accent on art spaces and murals. Info: www.metropoliten.com www.artandtours.com/beograd www.tob.rs; www.mikser.rs
Savamala je jedna od najstarijih beogradskih četvrti i jedno od najmlađih uporište dizajna, kulturnih dešavanja i uzbudljivog noćnog života. Šetnja obuhvata obilaske znamenitih toponima Savamale: zgradu Beogradske zadruge, hotel Bristol, Manakovu i Špansku kuću, te druga znamenita arhitektonska obeležja kvarta. Savamalu možete upoznati na dve različite ture: jednu organizuje Glob Metropoliten, a drugu Art&Tours Beograd koja akcenat stavlja na umetničke prostore i murale. Info: www.metropoliten.com www.artandtours.com/beograd www.tob.rs; www.mikser.rs
48
Summer | Leto 2014 BelGuest
P O G L E D
I Z B L I Z A
-
R A Z G L E D A N J A
B E O G R A D A
BELGRADE UNDERGROUNG TOUR
TURA PODZEMNIM BEOGRADOM
Beneath the city lies another city. Underground Belgrade a different set of invisible tunnels, caves, dungeons, bunkers... A great tour for adventurers in search of secrets, legends and an unexpected history of the city. The route includes the Roman hall, the military bunker from the period of the Cold War, the Great gunpowder storage, dungeons at Kosančićev Venac Square and wine dungeons. Info: www.tob.rs www.eurojet.rs
Ispod grada krije se još jedan grad. Podzemni Beograd predstavlja splet različitih nevidljivih tunela, pećina, laguma, bunkera... Odlična tura za avanturiste u potrazi za tajnama, legendama i jednom neočekivanom istorijom grada. Maršruta obuhvata Rimsku dvoranu, vojni bunker iz doba hladnog rata, Veliki barutni magacin, lagume Kosančićevog venca i vinske lagume. Info: www.tob.rs www.eurojet.rs
ONE HUNDRED YEARS SINCE THE START OF THE FIRST WORLD WAR
STO GODINA OD POČETKA PRVOG SVETSKOG RATA
Marking one hundred years since the beginning of the First World War, the tourist agency Magelan and Glob Metropolitan have prepared programmes of sightseeing significant locations in the city that are related to this period: the former Austro-Hungarian consulate, Terazije Squeer, Zeleni Venac, Topličin Venac, Kosančićev Venac, the wharf, Belgrade Fortress. Info: www.serbianadventures.com www.metropoliten.com
Povodom obeležavanja Sto godina od početka Prvog svetskog rata, turističke agencija Magelan i Glob Metropoliten pripremile su programe razgledanja značajnih lokacija u gradu koje se vezuju za taj period: nekadašnji konzulat Austrougarske, Terazije, Zeleni, Topličin, Kosančićev venac, pristanište, Beogradska tvrđava. Info: w ww.serbianadventures.com www.metropoliten.com
NATIONAL ASSEMBLY
NARODNA SKUPŠTINA
For those who want to visit the National Assembly and become familiar with the work, history and artistic value of the building, group and individual visits are organised. There are several tours, including the tour of monitoring parliament sessions from the gallery of the Great Hall. Individual visits are organised every first Saturday of the month. If you are interested, get listed at the Info Centre of the Tourist Organisation of Belgrade (TOB), Knez Mihailova 5. Info: www.tob.rs www.parlament.gov.rs
Za one koji žele da posete Narodnu skupštinu i upoznaju se s radom, istorijatom i umetničkim vrednostima ovog zdanja, organizuju se grupne i individualne posete. Nekoliko je programa poseta, te program praćenja sednica sa galerije Velike sale. Individualne posete se organizuju svake prve subote u mesecu, a prijavljuju se u info centru TOB, Knez Mihailova 5. Info: www.tob.rs www.parlament.gov.rs
BelGuest Summer | Leto 2014
49
A
C L O S E R
L O O K
–
B E L G R A D E
S I G H T S E E I N G
COFFEE BREAK AT DUCHESS LJUBICA
NA KAFI KOD KNEGINJE LJUBICE
The programme “Coffee with Princess Ljubica” shows Belgrade during the time of the Obrenović royal dynasty. The curator of the City Museum dressed in a costume from that era greets visitors as a hostess of her palace. The story with which she animates the audience is popular and adjusted to tourist museum tours. And after a history class at Divanhana, the central place in the Palace, the guests are served the best coffee and the best Turkish delight. Info: www.mgb.org.rs www.tob.rs
Program „Na kafi kod kneginje Ljubice” predstavlja Beogradu za vreme vladavine dinastije Obrenović. Kustoskinja Muzeja grada obučena u kostim iz toga doba dočekuje posetioce kao domaćica svoje palate. Priča kojom animira publiku je popularna i prilagođena turističkim turama obilaska muzeja. A posle časa istorije u Divanhani, centralnom mestu u Konaku gostima se služi kafa i najbolji ratluk. Info: www.mgb.org.rs www.tob.rs
4/24 – T HROUGH THE CITY’S MUSEUM(S)
4/24 – K ROZ MUZEJ(E) GRADA BEOGRADA
The best way to get to know the city, to get to know its spirit, is to walk around the city on foot.Therefore, we suggest that you visit the museum(s) of Belgrade in an easy walk as part of which you can visit four museums: Princess Ljubica’s Residence, Museum of Paja Jovanović, Museum of Ivo Andric and Museum Jovan Cvijić. Info: www.mgb.org.rs www.tob.rs
Najlepši način da se upozna grad, da se upozna njegov duh, jeste proći kroz njega peške. Zato predlažemo da obilazak Beograda kroz Muzej(e) grada Beograda bude lagana šetnja tokom koje mogu da se obiđu 4 muzeja: Konak kneginje Ljubice, Muzej Paje Jovanovića, Muzej Ive Andrića i Muzej Jovana Cvijića. Info: www.mgb.org.rs www.tob.rs
VINČA ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE
ARHEOLOŠKI LOKALITET VINČA
One of the brightest chapters in the European prehistory was written no more than fifteen kilometres or so from Belgrade – in today’s settlement of Vinča. The findings of this locality are so much significant that the whole culture of the late neolith of South-east Europe was named after it – the Vinča Culture. On site, there is a small info point with exhibits, and the materials from excavations are kept in the archaeological collection of the Faculty of Philosophy and at the National Museum. Expert guidance is organised on Saturdays and Sundays at different times. Info: www.mgb.org.rs www.tob.rs
Jedno od najsvetlijih poglavlja evropske praistorije ispisivano je na obali Dunava, na svega petnaestak kilometara od Beograda - u današnjem naselju Vinča. Nalazi sa ovog lokaliteta su toliko značajni da je cela kultura poznog neolita jugoistočne Evrope po njoj dobila ime – vinčanska kultura. Na nalazištu postoji manja informativna postavka, a materijal sa iskopavanja se čuvaju u arheološkoj zbirci Filozofskog fakulteta i u Narodnom muzeju. Stručno vođenje se organizuje subotom i nedeljom u više termina. Info: www.mgb.org.rs www.tob.rs
50
Summer | Leto 2014 BelGuest
P O G L E D
I Z B L I Z A
-
R A Z G L E D A N J A
B E O G R A D A
LITERARY GUIDE – TRACE OF IVO ANDRIĆ
KNJIŽEVNI VODIČ - TRAGOM IVE ANDIĆA
Walks on the traces of selected Belgrade writers narrate the story of their lives and the spirit of the times when they were creating. “Walks take you paths that are not marked on the map of the city, next to the addresses of houses, apartments, cafés, schools, editorial offices most of which no longer exist...” For groups of minimum 10 persons, programmes on the traces of Miloš Crnjanski, Isidora Sekulić, Danilo Kiš, Branislav Nušić, Duško Radović, Stevan Sremac, Borisav Stanković, Branko Ćopić, Aca Popović, Dositej Obradović, Djura Jakšić, MiirJam i Zmaj Jova Jovanović. The regular sightseeing programme on Wednesdays takes you on Belgrade trails of our great writer Ivo Andrić, the winner of the Nobel Prize for his novel “Bridge over the Drina”. Info: www.beogradskesetnje.rs
Šetnje tragom izabranih beogradskih pisaca pripovedaju priču o njihovim životima i duhu vremenu u kojem su stvarali. „Šetnje vode stazama koje nisu ucrtane u mapu grada, pored adresa kuća, stanova, kafana, škola, uredništava listova kojih uglavnom više nema...“ Za grupe od najmanje 10 osoba mogu se organizovati programi Tragom Miloša Crnjanskog, Isidore Sekulić, Danila Kiša, Branislava Nušića, Duška Radovića, Stevana Sremca, Borisava Stankovića, Branka Ćopića, Ace Popovića, Dositeja Obradovića, Đure Jakšića, MiirJam i Zmaj Jove Jovanovića. Redovan program razglednja sredom vodi vas „beogradskim stazama“ našeg velikog pisca Ive Andrića - dobitnika Nobelove nagrade za roman „Na Drini ćuprija“. Info: www.beogradskesetnje.rs
BELGRADE ENDOWERS
BEOGRADSKI ZADUŽBINARI
On a two-hour walk from Savamala to the Students Square, you will visit the buildings that were endowments of Luka Ćelović, Persida and Risto Milenković, Sima Andrijević Igumanov, Djoka Vlajković, Vlajko Kalenić, Nikola Spasić, Nikola and Evgenija Kiki, Ilija Milosavljević Kolarac and Miša Nastasijević. Info: www.beogradskesetnje.rs
U dvočasovnoj šetnji od Savamale do Sudentskog trga obilaze se zdanja koje su svom rodu darivali Luka Ćelović, Persida i Rista Milenković, Sima Andrijević Igumanov, Đoka Vlajković, Vlajko Kalenić, Nikola Spasić, Nikola i Evgenija Kiki, Ilijia Milosavljević Kolarac i Miša Nastasijević. Info: www.beogradskesetnje.rs
SWEET BELGRADE AND MUSIC TIME MACHINE
SLATKI BEOGRAD I BEOGRADSKI MUZIČKI VREMEPLOV
“The sweets on the tables and in the social life show the development of Belgrade during the two centuries of its modern history, the meeting of East and West and transformation of Belgrade from an oriental town into a modern European capital.” The tour begins in a bar called “?” and ends at the Hotel “Moscow”. During the walk, you will try some characteristic Belgrade sweets. The other thematic programme ”Belgrade Music Time Machine” is designed as a journey through modern history of Belgrade, as viewed from the musical perspective. Info: www.beogradskesetnje.rs
„Kroz slatkiša na trpezama i u društvenom životu prikazuje se razvoj Beograda tokom dva veka njegove moderne istorije, susret istoka i zapada i njegovo prerastanje od orijentalne varoši u modernu evropsku prestonicu." Tura počinje u kafani „?“, a završava se u hotelu „Moskva“. Tokom šetnje probaćete karakteristične beogradske slatkiše. Drugi tematski program „Beogradski muzički vremeplov“ zamišljen je kao putovanje kroz modernu istoriju Beograda, posmatranu iz muzičkog ugla. Info: www.beogradskesetnje.rs
BelGuest Summer | Leto 2014
51
A
C L O S E R
L O O K
–
B E L G R A D E
S I G H T S E E I N G
NIKOLA TESLA’S WAYS
PUTEVIMA NIKOLE TESLE
Way back on the 1st of June 1892, Nikola Tesla arrived on a visit to Belgrade. The Cluster of cultural routes, Glob Metropolitan Tours have and Magelan Tours, inspired by Tesla’s “June Days”, revived his visit and reminded of the atmosphere of enthusiasm that swept over Belgrade back then. Today the legacy of the Serb of world renown is preserved in the Nikola Tesla Museum and is inscribed on UNESCO’s “Memory of the World Register”. Info: www.tob.rs www.metropoliten.com www.magelan.rs www.serbianadventures.com
1. juna davne 1892. godine, Nikola Tesla je doputovao u posetu Beogradu. Klаstеr puteva kulture, Glоb mеtrоpоlitеn tours i turistička agencija MagelaN su, inspirisani Teslinom „junskim danima“, oživeli njegov boravak i podsetili na atmosferu oduševljenja koja je vladala Beogradom. Ostavština „Srbina svetskog glasa“ danas se čuva u Muzeju Nikole Tesle i nalazi se na Uneskovoj listi „Pamćenje sveta“. Info: www.tob.rs www.metropoliten.com www.magelan.rs www.serbianadventures.com
TITO VILLE
TITO VILLE
The tour Tito Ville is the story of the era of the rule of Josip Broz Tito and the emergence of New Belgrade. The most important buildings of socialist realism and brutalism architecture are visited: the building of the Federal Executive Council, the hotel Yugoslavia, Genex Tower... The tour is laced with an interesting story about the glory and collapse of the Yugoslav socialism. Info: www.artandtours.com/beograd www.tob.rs
Tura Tito Ville je priča o epohi vladavine Josipa Broza Tita i nastanku Novog Beograda. Obilaze se najznačajnija zdanja arhitekture socrealizma i brutalizma: Zgrada Saveznog izvršnog veća, hotel Jugoslavija, Genex kula... Tura je protkana i zanimljivim pričama o sjaju i propasti jugoslovenskog socijalizma. Info: www.artandtours.com/beograd www.tob.rs
CITY CENTRE TOUR
CENTAR GRAD TURA
The focus of this programme is put on art galleries in the heart of Belgrade. The tour starts at the Republic Square, and the tour includes: Čumić district, DOB gallery, KCB gallery, Remont, Graphic Collective, Serbian Academy of Sciences and Arts (SASA), Ilija Milosavljević Kolarac Endowment, Singidunum, Ozone, Nova gallery, U10, Suluj, Ulus, FLU, Museum of Contemporary Art. The tour also includes a visit to a studio of young local designers. Info: www.artandtours.com/beograd www.tob.rs
U središtu ovog programa su umetničke galerije u srcu Beograda. Tura kreće sa Trga Republike, a razgledanje obuhvata: Čumić distrikt, galeriju DOB-a, galeriju KCB-a, Remont, Grafički kolektiv, SANU, Zadužbinu Ilije Milosavljevića Kolarca, Singidunum, Ozon, galeriju Nova, U10, Suluj, Ulus, FLU, Salon Muzeja Savremene umetnosti. U turu je uključena i poseta ateljeima mladih lokalnih dizajnera. Info: www.artandtours.com/beograd www.tob.rs
52
Summer | Leto 2014 BelGuest
P O G L E D
I Z B L I Z A
-
R A Z G L E D A N J A
B E O G R A D A
BELGRADE RAKIA TOUR
BEOGRADSKA RAKIJA TURA
Every country has some typical products. Ours is known for good brandy, locally called rakija. That's why there is an offer of bohemian and sightseeing tour with a visit to Rakia bars, where accompanied by a guide, you can find out more about rakija and the city, but also in three different locations you can try five different brandies that are served with a special kind of snacks. Info: www.rakiabar.com ww.metropoliten.com
Svaka zemlja ima neke tipične proizvode. Naša je poznata po čašici dobre rakije. Zato je u ponudi i boemska tura razgledanja grada uz posetu Rakia barovima, gde uz pratnju vodiča može da se dozna nešto više o rakiji i gradu, ali da se i na tri različite lokacije proba pet različitih rakija, koje se služe uz posebnu vrstu mezetluka. Info: www.rakiabar.com ww.metropoliten.com
BELGRADE WINE ROUTE
BEOGRADSKI VINSKI PUT
On a large estate of experimental farm Radimovac, there are vineyards, orchards, fishponds, beehives, a wine cellar... Milan Vukicević bequeathed his property seventy years ago to the Faculty of Agriculture. His endowment today is a lively centre for the training of students, research, production of quality wines and spirits, and one of the largest “gene banks” in the region. At the Belgrade wine tour, you will try top five types of wine from Radmilovac. Info: www.master-holidays.com
Na prostranom imanju oglednog dobra Radimovac nalaze se zasadi vinograda, voćnjaci, ribnjaci, pčelinjaci, vinski podrum... Svoj posed je pre sedamdeset godina Poljoprivrednom fakultetu zaveštao Milan Vukićević. Njegova zadužbina danas je jedan živ centar za obuku studenata, istraživanja, proizvodnju kvalitetnih vina i rakija i jedna od najvećih „banki gena“ u regionu. Na Beogradskoj vinskoj turi probaćete pet vrsta vrhunskih Radmilovačkih vina. Info: www.master-holidays.com
ZOO PARK - PARK OF GOOD HOPE
ZOOLOŠKI VRT - VRT DOBRE NADE
Belgrade Zoo was established in 1936. Although it spans an area of only seven hectares, the zoo is very nice and has a lot of animals who are well cared for. It consists of more than 2000 animals with some 270 animal species. Belgrade Zoo is a must-see tourist attraction. Info: w ww. beozoovrt.izlog.org
Beogradski zoološki vrt nastao je 1936. godine. Iako zauzima površinu od svega sedam hektara, Vrt je izuzetno lep i ima puno negovanih životinja. Čini ga više od 2000 primeraka, kojima je zastupljeno oko 270 životinjskih vrsta. Beo Zoo Vrt je nezaobilazna turistička atrakcija grada. Info: www. beozoovrt.izlog.org
BelGuest Summer | Leto 2014
53
A
C L O S E R
L O O K
–
B E L G R A D E
S I G H T S E E I N G
SAVA EXCURSION
SAVSKI IZLET
Start a full-day excursion to Surčin at the port of New Belgrade, in Block 44, where a boat and a travel guide will be waiting for you. After a pleasant sail on the Sava, you’ll arrive to Jakovo. The programme of Surčin tour includes a visit to the farm and paddock “Stremen”, monastery of Fenek, ethno house Stajkov. You will have a lunch break at the nautical village “Biser” on the bank of the river. After lunch, you’ll visit the picnic ground of “Bojčin forest”, and then the club “S” - a luxury tourist complex with pools. At the end of the day, there will be a pleasant boat ride and return to Belgrade. Info: www.turizamsurcin.com
Celodnevni izlet u Surčin započine na pristaništu novobeogradskog bloka 44 gde vas ček brod i turistički vodič. Nakon prijatne plovidbe Savom stiže se u pristanište u Jakovu. Program obilaska opštine Surčin obuhvata posetu salašu i ergeli „Stremen“, manastiru Fenek, etno kući Stajkov. Pauza za ručak je predviđena u nautičkom selu „Biser“ na obali Save. Nakon ručka, na programu je obilazak izletišta „Bojčinska šuma“, a potom i kluba „S“ - luksuznog turističkog kompleska s bazenima. Na kraju dana ponovo vas čeka prijatana vožnja brodom i povratak u Beograd. Info: www.turizamsurcin.com
KOLUBARA CRUISE
PLOVIDBA KOLUBAROM
A programme called “Canoe adventure on the river Kolubara” was designed by Zoran Dejanović, owner and founder of the club, “Ded Obren”. The camp is located on the bank of the river, in the municipality of Obrenovac. After the obligatory short rowing course, you’ll sail into the luxuriant nature. There are half-day, daily and multi-day programmes. Info: www.tob.rs www.kanuavanture.com
Program pod nazivom „Kanu avanture na reci Kolubari” osmislio je Zoran Dejanović, vlasnik i osnivač kluba „Ded Obren“. Kamp se nalazi na obali reke, na teritoriji opštine Obrenovac. Posle obaveznog kratkog veslačkog kursa započinje plovidba u raskošnoj prirodi. Postoje poludnevni, dvevni i višednevni programi. Info: www.tob.rs www.kanuavanture.com
TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRES • TURISTIČKI INFORMATIVNI CENTRI TIC TOURIST ORGANZATION OF BELGRADE / TIC TURISTIČKA ORGANIZACIJA BEOGRADA 5 Knez Mihailova Street/ Knez Mihailova 5 Phone: +381 11 26 35 622, +381 11 26 35 343 (Weekdays & Saturday from 9am to 9pm, Sundays 10am-3pm) Tourist Organization of Serbia / Turistička Organizacije Srbije Info Centre, Čika Ljubina 8/I Phone: + 381 11 65 57 127 (Mondays through Saturdays from 9am to 9pm) Airport Nikola Tesla /Aerodrom Nikola Tesla Phone: +381 11 20 97 828 (every day from 9am -9.30pm) Main Railway Station /Glavna železnička stanica Phone: +381 11 36 12 732 (Weekdays & Saturday 7am-1.30pm, Sundays closed) Zemun Tourist Centre /Turistički centar Zemun Magistratski trg 1 Phone: +381 11 37 78 535 (Mondays through Fridays from 9am to 3pm, Saturdays from 9am to 1pm)
E V E N T S
/
D O G A Đ A J I
EXHIBITIONS/IZLOŽBE
WELCOME TO MESOZOIC/Dobro došli u Mezozoik April - Novembar Natural History Museum - Gallery at Kalemegdan Prirodnjački muzej - Galerija na Kalemegdanu Info: www.nhmbeo.rs
Travelling Communiqué June - August Museum of Yugoslav History /Muzej istorije Jugoslavije Info: www.mij.rs
WEDDING CHEERS/ZDRAVO BILI, MLADENCI MILI! May - July Residence of Princess Ljubica / Konak kneginje Ljubice Info: www.mgb.org.rs
SERBIA IN THE GREAT WAR/SRBIJA U VELIKOM RATU July Gallery of Central Military Club/ Velika galerija Doma Vojske Srbije Info: www.odbrana.mod.gov.rs
AVANT-GARDE: FROM DADA TO SURREALISM/ Avangarda: Od dade do nadrealizma May - August The Gallery - Legacy of Milica Zorić and Rodoljub Čolaković Galerija - Legat Milice Zorić i Rodoljuba Čolakovića Info: www.msub.org.rs
THREE COLOURS RED/TRI BOJE CRVENE July Art Gallery KCB/Likovna galerija KCB Info: www.kcb.org.rs SECOND HAND/IZ DRUGE RUKE July - August Art Pavilion “Cvijeta Zuzorić”/Umetnički paviljon „Cvijeta Zuzorić“ Info: www.ulus.rs
BelGuest Summer | Leto 2014
55
E V E N T S
/
D O G A Đ A J I
FESTIVALS/FESTIVALI FRENCH COMEDY FILMS/ FRANCUSKI HUMORISTIČKI FILM July 8th - August 30th French Institute& Yugoslav Film Archive/ Francuski institut i Muzej Jugoslovenske kinoteka Info: www.institutfrancais.rs Musicology Festival 24th -27th July Kalemegdan park/Kalemegdanski park Info: www.musicology.rs Belgrade Beer Fest 2014 13th-17th August Info: www.belgradebeerfest.com FLOURISH/ PROCVETAJ 15th -31th August Art Pavilion “Cvijeta Zuzorić”/Umetnički paviljon „Cvijeta Zuzorić“ Info: www.ulus.rs 2ND INTERNATIONAL TRIENNIAL OF GRAPHIC ART/ 2. MEĐUNARODNO TRIJENALE GRAFIKE 4th September - 4th October Art Pavilion “Cvijeta Zuzorić”/Umetnički paviljon „Cvijeta Zuzorić“ Info: www.ulus.rs
56
Summer | Leto 2014 BelGuest
E V E N T S 12TH INTERNATIONAL COMICS FESTIVAL/ 12. MEĐUNARODNI SALON STRIPA 25th -28th September Student Cultural Center/Studentski kulturni centar Info: www.sck.org.rs
/
D O G A Đ A J I
48TH BITEF - BELGRADE INTERNATIONAL THEATRE FESTIVAL/ 48. Beogradski Internacionalni Teatarski Festival – BITEF September Info: www.bitef.rs
CONCERTS / KONCERTI Heritage Singers 16th August Center Sava/Sava centar Info: www.savacentar.net www.heritagesingers.com
IL DIVO 24th September Kombank Arena Info: www.kombankarena.rs www.ildivo.com
BelGuest Summer | Leto 2014
57
Ž A B A R
R E S T A U R A N T
|
R E S T O R A N
Ž A B A R
HARMONY OF FOOD & WINE
Some 16 years ago Dragoljub Poznanić decided to use one of the most beautiful parts of the Zemun quay, in the vicinity of Hotel Yugoslavia, where he worked for a long time, to open a restaurant in which he would serve top-quality dishes and selected drinks. This respected restaurateur, who is also known by the nickname Žabar, invested his vast knowledge and experience and soon the raft restaurant Žabar became one of Belgrade’s iconic venues.
I
n these beautiful and expertly landscaped surroundings, attention has been paid to every detail. The furniture is comfortable, the dishes sparkle and the pleasant atmosphere is complemented by numerous paintings, lamps and flowers, as well as embroidered cloths on the tables. Also comprising part of the ambience is the wonderful view of the Danube, ensuring that here you can enjoy yourself in peace in every respect. “We have got our guests accustomed to the highest quality food and great service and we are persisting in that. The cuisine is international, but we also have our ‘little secrets’. Thus, we serve a Waldorf Salad with a slightly different combination of ingredients under the name Love Salad, and our guests enjoy it very much. It is also said that anyone wanting to sample the best turkey with dumplings around should come to the restaurant Žabar. Incidentally, this recipe and preparation method in earthenware dishes was actually created by my father. The reputation of the restaurant was contributed to in particular by the cultivation of the wine culture. Included on the wine list are around 250-300 wine labels, while since 2003 we have employed a full-time sommelier”, says Aleksandra Poznanić, Dragoljub’s daughter, who is continuing the family business. The restaurant’s offer also includes wines produced by the Poznanić Winery? “Yes. A few years ago we planted a hectare of vineyards in Progar, where I'm from. We produce
high quality Italian Riesling - Talijan and Pinot Noir Dara, which we serve in our restaurant, while smaller amounts are sold via renowned wine boutiques and restaurants.” What would you prefer to hear: your guests saying that they come to Žabar to drink top quality wine, or because they eat well at your place? “Food and wine cannot be separated. A good morsel has to be paired with a sip of wine. Our sommelier is always available to guests and will suggest a particular wine that will match the selected dish.” What kind of wine do you like to drink? “That depends, of course, on the food, but also on the mood and the company. When it’s cold I enjoy a glass of strong red italian vine primitivo or 'temparament Spanish' wine tempranillo, while in summer I like a glass of white wine. I have also
grown to love rosé, but above all I have learned to appreciate wine. We are doing our best to give wine the place it deserves.” It is obvious that you are continuing this family business with success... “Restaurant Žabar has a tradition and is open 365 days a year, while the Poznanić Winery is building its way with easy, quality wine. Soon we will also be able to offer the apartments we’ve built within the winery in our vineyard, which is located in Progar - a very beautiful place between the Bojčinska Forest , Lake Živača and Sava river. Our wish is for us to thereby contribute to spreading the wine culture,” concludes our interlocutor. Rozana Sazdić Photo: Rozana Sazdić & Dragana Barjaktarević INFO: Žabar Restaurant & Poznanić Winery Kej oslobođenja bb, Zemun Tel: 011 319-1226; 062 232320 www.zabar.rs
58
Summer | Leto 2014 BelGuest
SKLAD HRANE I VINA Pre šesnaest godina, Dragoljub Poznanić je odlučio da na jednom od najlepših delova zemunskog keja, u blizini hotela Jugoslavija u kome je dugo radio, otvori restoran u kome će se služiti vrhunska jela i odabrana pića. Cenjeni ugostitelj, poznat i po nadimku Žabar, uložio je svoje veliko znanje i iskustvo i ubrzo je splav - restoran „Žabar” postao jedno od kultnih mesta Beograda.
U
ovom lepom i znalački uređenom ambijentu pažnja je posvećena svakom detalju. Nameštaj je udoban, posuđe blistavo, a prijatnom ambijentu doprinose brojne slike, lampe i cveće, kao i vezene šustikle na stolovima . Deo ambijenta čini i predivan pogled na Dunav, pa se ovde u svakom pogledu može na miru uživati. „Navikli smo goste na vrhunski kvalitet hrane i odličnu uslugu i u tome istrajavamo. Kuhinja je internacionalna, ali imamo i svoje 'male tajne'. Tako, Waldorf salatu sa nešto drugačijom kombinacijom sastojaka služimo pod imenom Ljubavna salata, i ona se našim gostima veoma dopada. Kažu i da ko želi da proba najbolju ćuretina s mlincima u okolini, treba da dođe u restoran Žabar. Uostalom, recept i način pripreme u zemljanoj posudi upravo je osmislio moj otac. Reputaciji restorana, naročito je doprinelo negovanje vinske kulture. Na vinskoj karti nalazi se oko 250-300 etiketa vina, a od od 2003. godine imamo stalno zaposlenog somelijera", kaže Aleksandra Poznanić, ćerka Dragoljuba Poznanića, koja nastavlja porodični posao. INFO: Žabar Restaurant & Poznanić Winery Kej oslobođenja bb, Zemun Tel: 011 319-1226; 062 232320 www.zabar.rs
U ponudi restorana nalaze se i vina koja proizvodi Vinarija Poznanić? „Da, pre nekoliko godina zasadili smo hektar vinograda u Progaru odakle vodimo poreklo. Proizvodimo kvalitetno belo vino pod nazivom Talija, sorte grožđa Italianski rizling i crveno Dara, sorte grožđa Pinot Noir. Pored našeg restorana vina se nalaze i na vinskim kartama odabranih restorana i vinoteka. Šta biste više voleli da čujete: da vaši gosti govore da dolaze u Žabar da bi pili kvalitetno vino, ili zato što se kod vas dobro jede? „Hrana i vino se ne mogu razdvojiti. Dobar zalogaj mora biti uparen sa gutljajem vina. Gostima je stalno na raspolaganju naš somelijer koji će predložiti određeno vino koje će se slagati sa izabranim jelom." Koje vino Vi volite da pijete? „To zavisi, naravno, od hrane, ali i od raspoloženja i društva. Kada dođu hladni dani prijaju mi snažna crvena vina poput italijanskog vina sorte primitivo ili neki temperamentni 'Španac' sorte tempranillo. Takođe, blago barikirana vina mi prijaju u hladne dane. Leti radije uklapam lagana i lepršavija bela vina sa laganim zalogajima.
Zavolela sam i roze, ali, naučila sam, pre svega, da cenim vino. Mi se trudimo - i kao vinari i kao ugledni ugostitelji - da vinu u Srbiji damo mesto koje zaslužuje." Očigledno je da sa uspehom nastavljate porodični posao… „Restoran Žabar ima tradiciju i otvoren je 365 dana u godini, a Vinarija Poznanić lagano, kvalitetom vina, gradi svoj put. Uskoro ćemo moći da ponudimo i apartmane koje smo izgradili u okviru vinske kuće u našem vinogradu, koji se nalazi u Progaru - na veoma lepom mestu između Bojčinske šume, jezera Živača i reke Save. Naša želja je da i time doprinesemo širenju vinske kulture", zaključuje naša sagovornica. Rozana Sazdić Foto: Rozana Sazdić & Dragana Barjaktarević
MAP FOR DISCOVERING NOVI SAD
NOBLE WITH A REASON
By presenting Novi Sad, its sights and sceneries, in addition to major tourist road signs, we want to point to the lesser-known, hidden spots, that different generations of Novi Sad residents like. We invite you to enjoy yourself in this beautiful city and we’ve interwoven on our tour map some famous people who are the reason why this city proudly bears the name of the Serbian Athens.
O
ne of the visitor’s first impressions of Novi Sad will be an image of cultivated beauty. Aristocratic and relaxed, surrounded by the fertile plains, Fruška Gora Mountain and the Danube River, the capital of Vojvodina is a gem among the cities of Serbia. Its architecture and spirit have shaped many a nation, but it is especially significant for the Serbian culture, because it was the place where, in the 19th century, the most important national institutions were established, and where the first outlines of a European face of modern Serbia were shaped. Contemporary Novi Sad is host to world famous festivals and events, the most famous of which is certainly the EXIT festival; this is a city of business and congress tourism, excellent hotels and catering services. Novi Sad has all the necessary diversity of amenities
Monument to Svetozar Miletić
required for a modern tourist centre, which every year takes a notable place on the tourist map of Europe and the world. L IBERTY AND NATIONAL TRIBUNE’S SQUARES The idea for the largest central city square, the starting point of a city tour, was conceived for the first time in the 18th century. Its central part is dominated today by the monument to Svetozar Miletić. This great man, a fighter for the national rights of the Serbs in the Austro-Hungarian Empire, was at his time the youngest mayor of Novi Sad. He was so popular because of his courage, eloquence, but also because of his great suffering, that his contemporary, poet Jovan Jovanović Zmaj, wrote
the following lyrics in ecstasy: “Lift your children from the cradle so that they would remember him!”. The Square is surrounded by exceptionally beautiful buildings, and certainly the most impressive among them is the neo-Renaissance City Hall, from which the city has been governed for almost 120 years. Opposite to the City Hall there is another impressive building: the Roman Catholic parish church, “The Name of Mary”. The buildings surrounding the square have their own very special stories: “At the lead soldier,” the Vojvodina Hotel, Vojvodjanska Banka, Tanurdzic Palace... Among these giants, there is “Trčika” – the favourite old tram of Novi Sad that has been converted into an attractive coffee shop, so we suggest you to enjoy the epicentre of the city from this place.
Monument to Jovan Jovanović Zmaj BelGuest Summer | Leto 2014
61
The Danube Park A POET’S PROMENADE Svetozar Miletić and Jovan Jovanović Zmaj were friends and associates. Even today their lives are symbolically linked by the urban fabric of the city. One of the oldest and liveliest streets in the city, named after the poet, affectionately named Zmaj Jova stretches from the Liberty Square, at the view level of the great hero carved in bronze. It extends to the Bishop's Palace, and the street got its present-day appearance in the second half of the 19th century, when the city was being rebuilt over a period of almost twenty years, because it had been razed to the ground during the bombing from the Petrovaradin Fortress in 1849. One of the few houses that escaped the evil fate is called “At the White Lion’s” and it was built in 1720. It is the oldest architectural monument of the city. It is situated at the corner of Zmaj Jovina and Dunavska Streets. The residential palace of the Diocese of Bačka is also located at this crossroads, and right next to this noble edifice you will find the Orthodox church of St. George, built in the early 18th century. The oldest monument, a cross made of pink marble, is located in the churchyard. The monument to Jovan Jovanović Zmaj was erected in front of the Bishop's Palace in 1984. All generations know by heart his charming and humorous poetr y for children.
Monument to Đura Jakšić
DYNAMIC LABYRINTHS Behind the beautiful houses that are situated in the Zmaj Jovina and Dunavska streets, there is a whole network of side alleys. These passages are specific to this city: citizens of Novi Sad gather in coffee shops that are hidden from the view of passers-by. Drinking morning coffee and reading newspapers is a special ritual. Join them and be sure to take a walk through the picturesque alleys, take a peek at gift shops, small craft shops of bag makers, leather merchants, jewellers, tailors ... Wedding dresses, formal and prom dresses made by skilled tailors are traditionally purchased here. Some salons have a long tradition: there are records that in the “old days” ladies of Novi Sad were getting precious Viennese fabrics and patterns through special channels and were giving them to local tailors. The stories about the splendour of aristocrats’ balls, and especially of “noble-balls” given in the City Hall, are still narrated in these salons. A GREEN ISLAND The ever-lively Dunavska Street will take you to the peaceful Danube Park. We recommend you to take a break in this shadowy town corner. A lake with an islet that is home to the favourite Novi Sad pair of swans Isidor and Biserka, affectionately called Isa and Bisa, is a special attraction. The swans’ island is named after the Austro-Hungarian Empress Erzsébet, wife of Emperor Franz Joseph. A weeping willow in the centre of the island was planted in memory of the tragic end of this beautiful empress who was assassinated in 1898. The park contains memorials to great Serbian artists: to poet Branko Radičević and to painter and writer Đura Jakšić. Both are great representatives of the
Serbian romanticism of the 19th century. Miroslav Mika Antić, a “ruffled” poet of the bohemian generation of the second half of the 20th century deservedly got a place next to them. SELFLESS WOMAN AND MATICA SRPSKA We will continue our walk around the old town in the opposite direction, from the Danube Street towards the Pašićeva Street where Matica Srpska is located, the oldest and most prestigious institution of culture in the country. The fund of Matica Srpska keeps three million books, manuscripts, chronicles, collections, as well as an outstanding collection of portraits of famous people, including a portrait of Marija Trandafil, the woman who is considered to be the greatest benefactor in our history. She established a scholarship fund for students, for marriage of poor girls, for social welfare to widows and the underprivileged, and her most important legacy is the Institute for Orthodox Orphans which houses Matica Srpska today. “In my whole lifetime I was poor only for one day... When I remember that day, I feel what hunger and poverty are...” this generous strong woman used to say. Right next to Matica Srpska there is the Nicholas Church where Marija Trandafil was buried, and where Albert and Mileva Einstein baptized their children. G ALLERY SQUARE: COLLECTION OF TREASURES No other city in the world has such a large concentration of treasures of art collected in one small space. The Gallery Square contains: the Gallery of Matica Srpska, Memorial Collection of Pavle Beljanski and Gift Collection of Rajko Mamuzić. We recommend you to begin the travel through various artistic epochs in chronological order. The Gallery of Matica Srpska displays the national art
from the 16th to the 21st centuries. Pavle Beljanski, a skilled diplomat and an avid collector donated a collection of the Serbian painting of the first half of the 20th century to his people and Rajko Mamuzić gave a collection of works of the first post-war generation of artists. By viewing the exhibitions of these three galleries you will travel through time, which covers five centuries of national art. JEWISH HERITAGE AND SYNAGOGUE SIGHTSEEING A large Jewish community lived in the city before the Second World War, which today, unfortunately, is very small. The Great Synagogue, built in 1909, witnesses the time of prosperity of the Jews of Novi Sad. The Jewish community donated their place of worship to the city, and due to its exceptional acoustics it has become an elite concert hall. It hosts the major city international festival of classical music NOMUS. In cooperation with the Jewish community, the Tourist Organisation of Novi Sad organises a free-guided tour of the synagogue complex, with a story about the history of the Jewish community. The tour lasts 35 to 40 minutes and is given in the Serbian and English languages. ALL ABOUT NOVI SAD – INFO CENTRES Across the street from the Synagogue there is one of the two information centres of the Tourist Organisation of Novi Sad (Jevrejska 10), where we can give you more information about the magic that is hidden in Novi Sad, and where you can buy souvenirs to remind you of your stay in the city. Tourist Organisation of the City Novi Sad Photo: TO Novi Sad & BelGuest Archive
of
MULTITUDE OF SIGNPOSTS The Serbian National Theatre, Museum of Vojvodina, Foreign Art Collection, the street of Laza Telečki known as the “street of fun,” the striking Petrovaradin Fortress and Museum of the City of Novi Sad, Petrovaradin town, the promenade along the Danube, sandy beach “Strand”, Fishermen’s island, the nearby farms, the Fruška Gora national park and Orthodox monasteries are just a few of the many signposts for discovering the diverse attractions of this gracious city. SUMMER FESTIVAL AND EVENTS * DAYS OF BRAZIL (Samba carnival of Novi Sad) on 15–17 August * IFUS (international festival of street musicians) on 4–7 September 2014 * WORLD CHAMPIONSHIP IN MOUNTAIN SKATEBOARD (cross-border discipline) on 5–6 September
MURAL DEDICATED TO MONIKA SZELES If you like urban legends, in the residential area of Novi Sad called Liman 4, on the building where as very young girl the former best tennis player of the world used to practice by hitting balls against the wall, there is a mural with her face. The authors of the mural wrote a simple message: “It all started here.” CAKE OF MIRA BANJAC When you walk a lot it often happens that your blood sugar levels drop. Only in Novi Sad in the cake shop “Vremeplov” (Time Machine) can you taste the famous cake called by the even more famous Serbian actress Mira Banjac. It is difficult to describe this cake, but it contains some of the energy-boosting ingredients: dark chocolate and orange.
BelGuest Summer | Leto 2014
63
M A P A
Z A
O T K R I V A N J E
N O V O G
OTMENOST S RAZLOGOM Predstavljajući Novi Sad, njegove znamenitosti i ambijente želimo da vam, uz glavne turističke putokaze, pokažemo i manje poznata, skrivena mesta, koja vole različite generacije Novosađana. Pozivajući vas da uživate u lepom gradu, u mapu smo utkali po neku naznaku o znamenitim ljudima zbog kojih grad s ponosom nosi ime Srpska Atina.
J
edan od prvih utisaka koji Novi Sad ostavlja na posetioce je slika negovane lepote. Aristokratski ležeran, okružen plodnom ravnicom, Fruškom gorom i Dunavom, glavni grad Vojvodine je biser među gradovima Srbije. Njegovu arhitekturu i duh oblikovale su mnoge nacije, ali je on posebno značajan za srpsku kulturu, jer su se u njemu, u 19.veku, oblikovale najznačajnije nacionalne institucije i postavljali prvi obrisi evropskog lica moderne Srbije. Savremeni Novi Sad je domaćin svetski poznatih festivala i manifestacija, najpoznatiji među njima je svakako EXIT festival, on je grad poslovnog i kongresnog turizma, odlične hotelske i ugostiteljske ponude. Novi Sad poseduje svu potrebnu raznolikost sadržaja neophodnih jednom savremenom turističkom centru koji iz godine u godinu zauzima sve zapaženije mesto na turističkoj mapi Evrope i sveta.
64
Summer | Leto 2014 BelGuest
TRG SLOBODE I NARODNOG TRIBUNA Najveći centralni gradski trg, početna tačka za obilazak grada, idejno je postavljen još u 18. veku. Njegovim središtem danas dominira spomenik Svetozaru Miletiću. Ovaj veliki čovek, borac za nacionalna prava Srba u Austrougraskoj monarhiji, bio je u svoje vreme najmlađi gradonačelnik Novog Sada. Toliko je bio omiljen zbog svoje hrabrosti, rečitosti, ali i velikog stradanja, da je njegov savremenik, pesnik Jovan Jovanović Zmaj, u zanosu napisao stihove: „Diž’te decu iz kolevki, da zapamte njegov lik!”. Trg okružuju izuzetno lepa zdanja, a svakako najimpresivnije među njima je neorenesansna Gradska kuća iz koje se upravlja gradom bezmalo 120. godina. Nasuprot Gradske kuće uzdiže se još jedna impresivna građevina: rimokatolička župna crkva „Ime Marijino”. Zdanja koja okružuju Trg imaju svoje sasvim posebne priče: „Kod olovnog vojnika”, hotel „Vojvodina”, „Vojvođanska banka”,
„Tanurdžićeva palata“... Među ove divove smestio se „Trčika” omiljeni stari novosadski tramvaj koji je pretvoren u atraktivan kafe, pa vam predlažemo da sa ovog mesta uživate u pogledu na epicentar grada.
S A D A
PESNIKOVA PROMENADA Svetozar Miletić i Jovan Jovanović Zmaj bili su prijatelji i saradnici. Njihovi životi i danas su simbоlično povezani urbanim tkivom grada. Sa Trga Slobode, u ravni pogleda bronzanog velikana, pruža se jedna od najstarijih i najživljih ulica koja nosi ime pesnika, od milošte nazvanog Zmaj Jova. Proteže se do Vladičanskog dvora, a današnji izgled dobila je u drugoj polovini 19. veka, kada je grad obnаvljan u periodu od gotovo dvadeset godina, jer je bio do temelja razoren u bombardovanju s Petrovarаdinske tvrđave 1849. godine. Jedna od retkih kućа koja je izbegla zlu sudbinu zove se „Kod Belog Lаvа“, izgrаđenа je 1720. godine i ona je najstariji arhitektonski spomenik grada. Nalazi se na uglu Zmaj Jovine i Dunavske ulice. Na ovom raskršću smeštena je i rezidencijalna episkopska palata Eparhije Bačke, a odmah do ovog otmenog zdanja naići ćete na pravoslavnu Sabornu crkvu Svetog Đorđa, podignutu početkom 18. veka. Najstariji spomenik, krst od ružičastog mermera, nalazi se u crkvenoj porti. Ispred ulaza u Vladičanski dvor 1984. godine podignut je spomenik Jovanu Jovanoviću Zmaju. Njegovu ljupku i duhovitu poeziju za decu znaju napamet sve generacije .
Josifa. Žalosna vrba u središtu ostrva posađena je u znak sećanja na tragičan kraj ove lepe carice koja je ubijena u atentatu 1898. godine. U prostoru parka postavljena su spomen obeležja velikim srpskim umetnicima: pesniku Branku Radičeviću i slikaru i piscu Đuri Jakšiću. Obojica su velikani srpskog romantizma 19. veka. Uz njih se, sasvim zasluženo, našao Miroslav Mika Antić, „razbarušeni” pesnik boemske generacije druge polovine 20.veka.
Marija Popović Trandafil
NESEBIČNA ŽENA I MATICA SRPSKA Šetnju starim jezgrom grada nastavljamo suprotnim smerom, od Dunavske ulice ka Pašićevoj ulici gde se nalazi Matica srpska, najstarija i najuglednija ustanova kulture u zemlji. U Matičinom fondu čuva se tri miliona knjiga, rukopisa, letopisa, zbornika, kao i izvanredna kolekcija portreta znamenitih građana, među kojima i portret Marije Trandafil, žene koja slovi za najveću dobrotvorku u našoj istoriji. Osnovala je fondove za đačke stipendije, udaju sirotih devojaka, izdržavanje udovica, postradale, a njeno najznačajnije zaveštanje je Zavod za pravoslavnu siročad u kojem se danas nalazi Matica srpska. „Ja sam u čitavom svom veku samo jedan dan bila siromašna... Kad se setim tog dana, onda osetim šta je glad i sirotinja...”, govorila je ova jaka žena „široke ruke”. U neposrednoj blizini Matice srpske nalazi se Nikolajevska crkva u kojoj je sahranjena Marija Trandafil, a u njoj su svoju decu krstili Albert i Mileva Ajnštajn.
DINAMIČNI LAVIRINTI Iza lepih kuća Zmaj Jovine i Dunavske ulice krije se čitava mreža sporednih sokaka. Ovi pasaži su svojstveni za grad: u kafeima skrivenim od pogleda prolaznika okupljaju se Novosađani. Poseban ritual je ispijanje jutarnje kafe i čitanje novina. Pridružite im se i obavezno prošetajte živopisnim sokacima, zavirite u suvenirnice, male zanatske radnje tašnera, kožara, zlatara, krojača... Ovde se tradicionalno kupuju venčanice, svečane i maturske haljine koje šiju vešti krojači. Pojedini saloni imaju dugu tradiciju: postoje zapisi da su u „staro doba” novosadske dame posebnim kanalima dolazile do skupocenih bečkih tkanina i „mustri” i predavale ih u ruke ovdašnjih šnajdera. U salonima se i danas pripoveda o sjaju gospodskih balova, a posebno „nobl-balova” koji su priređivani u Gradskoj kući.
Iz uvek žive Dunavske ulice ulazi se u miran Dunavski park. Preporučujemo vam da predahnete u ovom senovitom gradskom kutku. Posebna atrakcija je jezero sa ostrvcem na kojem živi omiljeni novosadski par labudova Isidor i Biserka, od milja prozvanih Isa i Bisa. Ostrvo labudova nosi ime Austrougarske carice Eržebet, supruge cara Franje
TRG GALERIJA: SABRANO BLAGO Ni u jednom drugom gradu na svetu ne postoji tolika koncentracija umetničkog blaga sabranog na jednom nevelikom prostoru. Na Trgu Galerija nalaze se: Galerija Matice srpske, Spomen zbirka Pavla Beljanskog i Poklon zbirka Rajka Mamuzića. Preporučujemo vam da putovanje kroz različite umetničke epohe započnete „hronološki”. U Galeriji Matice srpske prikazana je nacionalna umetnost od 16. do 21. veka. Zbirku srpskog slikarstva prve polovine 20. veka, darovao je svom narodu Pavle Beljanski, vrsni diplomata i strastveni kolekcionar,
The enterance to Matica Srpska
The Mural to Laza Telečki
The Synagogue
Pavle Beljanski (third from the left) ZELENO OSTRVO
MNOŠTVO PUTOKAZA Srpsko narodno pozorište, Muzej Vojvodine, Zbirka strane umetnosti, ulica Laze Telečkog poznata kao „zona dobrog provoda”, moćna Petrovaradinska tvrđava i Muzej Grada Novog Sada, Petrovaradinski gradić, šetalište pored Dunava, peščana plaža „Štrand”, Ribarsko ostvo, obližnji salaši, Nacionalni park Fruška Gora i pravoslavni manastiri... samo su neki od brojnih putokaza za otkrivanje raznolikih sadržaja otmenog grada.
Street Artist Festival a Rajko Mamuzić dela prve posleratne generacije stvaralaca. Razgledanjem postavki tri galerije proći ćete kroz vreme koje obuhvata pet vekova nacionalne umetnosti.
organizuje besplatno stručno vođenje kroz kompleks Sinagoge, uz priču o istoriji jevrejske zajednice. Obilazak traje 35 do 40 minuta i organizuje se na srpskom i engleskom jeziku.
JEVREJSKA BAŠTINA I RAZGLEDANJE SINAGOGE U gradu je pre Drugog svetskog rata živela velika jevrejska zajednica, koja je danas, nažalost, ostala malobrojna. O dobu prosperiteta novosadskih Jevreja svedoči velika Sinagoga, sagrađena 1909. godine. Jevrejska zajednica je svoju bogomolju poklonila gradu, a zbog izuzetne akustike ona je postala elitna koncertna dvorana. U njoj se organizuje najznačajniji gradski međunarodni festival ozbiljne muzike NOMUS. U saradnji sa Jevrejskom opštinom, TO Novog Sada,
SVE O NOVOM SADU - INFO CENTRI Preko puta Sinagoge nalazi se jedan od dva info centra Turističke organizacije Grada Novog Sada (Jevrejska 10), gde vam možemo pružiti mnogo više informacija o čarima koje krije Novi Sad i gde možete kupiti suvenire koji će vas podsećati na boravak u gradu... Turistička organizacija Grada Novog Sada Foto: TO Novi Sad i Arhiva BelGuesta
LETNJI FESTIVALI I MANIFESTACIJE * DANI BRAZILA (novosadski samba karneval), 15–17. avgust * IFUS (internacionalni festival uličnih svirača), 4–7. septembar * SVETSKO PRVENSTVO U PLANINSKOM SKEJTBORDU (Disciplina Border Kros), 5–6. septembar MURAL POSVEĆEN MONIKI SELEŠ Ako volite urbane legende, u stambenom delu Novog Sada, zvanom Liman 4, na zgradi gde je kao veoma mlada bivša najbolja teniserka sveta vežbala udarajući lopticom o zid, nalazi se mural sa njenim likom. Autori murala su napisali jednostavnu poruku „Ovde je sve počelo”.
EXIT Festival
KOLAČ MIRE BANJAC Kada puno hodate, često se dogodi da „padne šećer“. Samo u Novom Sadu u poslastičarnici „Vremeplov” možete da probate čuveni kolač koji nosi naziv po još čuvenijoj dami srpskog glumišta, gospođi Miri Banjac. Taj kolač je teško opisati, ali u njemu su neki od osnovnih sastojaka koji daju energiju: crna čokolada i narandža.
66
Summer | Leto 2014 BelGuest
TO S R E C O M M E N D S : A T R I P TO S O K O B A N J A
SWING FOR THE HEART The uncrowned queen of Serbian tourism, the green heart of Serbia, the spa of the centuries. That is the description given for Sokobanja, a famous tourist destination and health resort that has a tradition dating back 180 years. This spa has been visited by celebrities of Serbian Culture: Nobel Laureat Ivo Andrić, comedy writer Branislav Nušić, writer Isidora Sekulic. They left behind their credible testimonies of the beneficial effects of the air, water and landscape. Modern Sokobanja is proud of its tradition, which has been upgraded with new and attractive features.
S
okobanja is located in the southeastern part of the country and is easy to reach: it is just 30 kilometres from the exit of the Belgrade-Niš highway towards Aleksinac. The landscape that surrounds the Sokobanja basin is gentle and varied. Its seal of wonder is provided by the gigantic, “Geometrically sculpted” Mount Rtanj, which has the shape of a pyramid. Because of its unusual shape, but also other phenomena, Rtanj is surrounded by many legends, tales of aliens and mysterious forces. One certain thing is that Rtanj is a mountain where a unique medicinal species of mint grows and is used to make Rtanjski tea, which you should definitely cry. In the background of Sokobanja rise two more mountains: Ozren and Devica, while the town is intersected by the clean mountain river Moravica. Testifying to the extreme generosity of the creator of this area is the fact that the spa has six medicinal thermal mineral and radioactive springs. When that list of nature's gifts is expanded to include nurtured spa parks and landscaped picnic areas, then we can really relax with full confi-
dence in rest and recuperation, knowing that the very nature of this place acts on our body and subtle energy field. RETURN OF ROMANTICISM “Here at Sokobanja, looking at this splendour of nature, this beauty of the light of earth and heaven, I am often overcome with an inexplicable sadness, but also enthusiasm, so in such a relaxed state I wondered how nice it would be, at least for a moment, to return again to romanticism,” wrote Ivo Andrić. We visited apartment 144 of the Hotel Moravica, where our famous writer stayed. Our guide said that Andrić always stayed right in that apartment not because of its comfort or out of habit, but because of the particular view from the balcony. Spurred on by the sight, I thought about how I am not only reminded of the era of romanticism by the grandeur of the nature, the association took me further, into the heart of the town, to the marble promenade, where there are still beautiful Serbian town houses from the 19th century. Reminiscent of the old times of both
eras is the Turkish baths from the 15th century. Built on the foundations of the Roman baths, it gained a new look in the 19th century. It was renewed by decree of the then ruler of Serbia, Prince Miloš Obrenović. TALES FROM THE BATHS Today in the interior of the stone buildings of the old Turkish baths is a modern wellness centre. It is up to date in terms of the modern therapeutic methods applied, but the interior has remained faithful to the original: female bathroom with an oval pool of emerald green stone, male bathroom separated by winding corridors and heavy wooden doors. Between these dissociative spheres is located the special, small, personal bathroom of Prince Miloš Obrenović. Rumour has it that there is a barely visible hole in the rock through which the ruler watched the women's area. There are no records of what he saw there or whether some particular beauty caught his eye. What history has recorded is that this prince loved women and, although he was a Christian, he had the kind of propensity worthy of any sultan.
BelGuest Summer | Leto 2014
67
The chambers of this beautiful baths provided filming locations for scenes from the film Zona Zamfirova, which evokes the atmosphere of mutual bathing of virgins and women and the delicate intimacy of the patriarchal 19th century. Today visitors to the baths are entitled to their privacy. The water is warm, so it is not recommended to spend longer than one hour in the water. After bathing in the healing water and inhaling the water vapours that contain the gas radon, the body becomes light and the thoughts muted. There is no more need to rush. Just an hour in the Amam brings peace and tranquillity. SOKOLA CITY The spa is named after Soko-grad, a medieval military fortress located on a natural outcrop, perched above the Moravica canyon. Visiting Soko-grad is a special experience for tourists. From the gentle meadow of the popular Lepterija excursion spot on the bank of the Moravica, the trail leads alongside the roaring river and then climbs upwards steeply. The reward for this short but strenuous climb is mesmerising. The surrounding area is visible from the walls of Soko-grad. Our guide told us a story about the history of the fort and the military tactics of medieval ages. With tar and boiling oil, which was poured over enemies in the case of a siege, the defenders of Soko-grad had their own special methods: they stretched nets and ox skins in the waters of the Moravica and thus outsmarted their uninvited invaders. It's nice to hear the echo of past times in this place. WATER THAT FLOWS, WATER THAT LEAPS Sokobanja is known for its numerous excursion sites and as such, with a grain of curiosity, even a
longer stay here simply cannot become a routine. The beaches of the Moravica are a special entity. There are six landscaped beaches, while there are four in the town itself, all of which are completely different: Župan is shadowy and pebbled, Tesnac lies on a closely cropped rock face, while the Šest kace (six pools) and Tri kace (three pools) beaches have natural pools (kace) which provided the basis for their names. We do not know why the other beautiful beach on the Moravica is called Gentleman’s, but the name is enough to arouse curiosity. The source of the Moravica at the foot of Mount Devica is also a pleasant place to rest and spend a full day excursion. In a variation on the theme of water, Sokobanja also has a beautiful space: the Grudno small lake and pond beside the Small Ripaljka waterfall and excursion site under Great Ripaljka – the highest waterfall in Serbia. When the people of this region want to say that someone jumps high and suddenly, they use the term ripiti. That’s how these swift “water jumpers”: got their name. INDESCRIBABLY GREEN Our next destination is the resort of Očno. It is located within the Ozren special hospital for ocular diseases. On the large meadow bordered by forests stands a lonely white rock. There is no reliable explanation of how it reached here. It is believed to have been lowered to this meadow by a mysterious force, and tradition says that under this massive stone Hajduk Veljko, a hero of the First Serbian Uprising, and Čučuk Stana, a fearless warrior of sweet character, made love. Their love is worthy of a novel, but that's another story. Today this “Stone of Love” is revisited by couples who believe that coming here
will ensure their love will be equally passionate and long-lasting. Air currents mingle above the Ozren meadow. This is a unique rose wind which carries within it a host of negative ions, which, despite the name, are invaluably beneficial to health. We asked our guide how people with poor eyesight are treated here and he told us that there are some special procedures, with therapies including walking, breathing deeply and watching the green landscape. I'm not exaggerating when I say that I've never seen similar, rich and vibrant colour. ACCOMMODATION & HEALTH SPA Alongside four large hotels - Moravica, Zdravljak, Turist and Sunce – private accommodation prevails at Sokobanja. You can stay in one of the old buildings with the patina of history, modern chalets, apartments or rooms to rent. If you do not want to be tied to boarding, you can be worry free – the town has numerous excellent restaurants offering local cuisine that even deliver meals or prepare the food you desire. When it comes to health resorts, they are part of the healthcare system of Serbia. The Sokobanja Special Hospital deals with the treatment and prevention of non-specific pulmonary diseases. On Ozren is the aforementioned special hospital for eye ailments and obstructive pulmonary diseases, which is also the oldest medical institution at the spa. Above the Banjica city park is a specialised hospital of the same name that treats various respiratory diseases, as well as psychoneurosis and neurosis. These institutions have developed a whole range of therapeutic methods that are available to people who have no specific medical prescription.
AQUA-PARK & NEW WELLNESS CENTRE Through the structure of its guests Sokobanja has managed to overcome the prejudice that Serbian spas are mostly reserved for older people and those with a decrepit state of health. Entertainment events, ethno festivals, mountain marathons, team sports, tennis, mountain biking, meadow rambling, fishing... these are all activities that have brought young and active people to this spa. The crowning glory of this developmental endeavour is the construction of the Podine Aqua Park. “On an area of 16,000m2 we have a semi-Olympic swimming pool, a bathing area for adults and children and a pool with three attractive water slides. We are especially proud that our aqua park is full of greenery that is befitting of Sokobanja,” we are told by Ljubinko Milenković, director of the municipal Organisation for tourism, culture and sport. Alongside the aqua park, which is entering its third season, the Soko-Thermal garni hotel and wellness centre opened at Sokobanja in 2013. This complex has two indoor swimming pools with thermal mineral water and provides a full range of wellness and beauty care services. AIR – JOYOUS & AFFECTIONATE All the innovations and modern facilities are supplement by the space itself: Sokobanja has the spirit of intimate Serbian township. We can run around with the kids and plummet down the slides of the aqua park, relax with a “Royal massage” at Soko-Therme, sway in the warm water of the Amam, climb to the top of Mount Rtanj... but all that comfortable filling of time gains its full meaning if we are aware that we are in a healthy place that invigorates people without any kind of formal “treatment”. One such lyrical testimony was left to us by famous writer Isidora Sekulić... The spa is surrounded by mountains, there is a forest, there are springs; but the most beautiful is the specific air in it and over it, joyous air, affectionate air. A human feels so far unknown satisfaction of having lungs, and that nature is constantly breathing. There a man discovers that the heart is fond of air. Somewhere near the source, under the mountain, the heart no longer strives to pump and operate, it rests, while the chest, full of fresh air, lifts and drops the heart as though suspended on a spring. At Sokobanja the heart does not strive and does not pound, but rather sways. Milena Mihaljčić Photo: Organisation for tourism, culture and sport Sokobanja
T O S P R E P O R U Č U J E : P U T O V A N J E U S O K O B A N J U
LJULJAŠKA ZA SRCE
Photo: Svetlana Dingarac
Nekrunisana kraljica srpskog turizma, zeleno srce Srbije, banja dugovečnosti. Tako se opisuje Sokobanja, poznato turističko mesto i lečilište koje ima tradiciju dugu 180 godina. U banju su dolazile poznate ličnosti srpske kulture: nobelovac Ivo Andrić, komediograf Branislav Nušić, spisateljica Isidora Sekulić. Oni su nam ostavili verodostojna svedočanstva o blagotvornom delovanju vazduha, vode, krajolika. Savremena Sokobanja ponosna je na svoju tradiciju, koju je nadgradila novim i privlačnim sadržajima.
S
okobanja se nalazi u jugoistočnom delu zemlje i do nje se lako dolazi: od izlaza sa auto-puta Beograd–Niš ka Aleksincu udaljena je svega tridesetak kilometara. Pejzaž koji okružuje sokobanjsku kotlinu pitom je i razliven. Čudesni pečat daje mu gorostasna, „geometrijski vajana“ planina Rtanj, koja ima oblik piramide. Zbog svog neobičnog oblika, ali i drugih fenomena, o Rtnju kruže mnoge legende, priče o vanzemaljcima i tajanstvenim silama. Jedno je svakako izvesno, Rtanj je planina na kojoj raste jedinstvena lekovita vrsta metvice od koje se spravlja „rtanjski čaj“. Svakako ga treba probati. U zaleđu Sokobanje nalaze se još dve planine: Ozren i Devica, a kroz grad protiče čista planinska reka Moravica. Da je tvorac ovog podneblja bio izuzetno darežljiv govori i podatak da u banji postoji šest lekovitih termomineralnih i radioaktivnih izvora. Kada se na tu listu darova prirode dodaju i negovani banjski parkovi i uređena izletišta, onda zaista možemo da se s punim poverenjem prepustimo odmoru i okrepljenju, znajući da sama priroda tog mesta deluje na naše telo i tanano energetsko polje. POVRATAK ROMANTIZMU „Ovde u Sokobanji, gledajući ovu raskoš prirode, ovu lepotu svetlosti zemlje i neba, često me obuzme neka neobjašnjiva tuga ali i zanos, pa sam tako opušten razmišljao kako bi bilo lepo, bar za trenutak, ponovo se vratiti romantizmu“, pisao je Ivo Andrić. Posetili smo hotel „Moravicu“ i apartman 144, u kojem je boravio naš slavni pisac. Vodič nam je rekao da je Andrić uvek odsedao baš u tom apartmanu ne zbog udobnosti ili navike već zbog naročitog pogleda s balkona. Podstaknuta prizorom, pomislila sam da me na epohu romantizma ne podseća samo raskoš prirode, asocijacija me odvela dalje, u srce grada, na mermerno šetalište, gde još postoje lepe varoške kuće Srbije 19. veka. Na staro doba jedne druge epohe podseća Tursko kupatilo iz 15. veka. Podignuto je na temeljima rimskih termi, a novo ruho dobilo je u 19. veku. Obnovio ga je ukazom tadašnji vladar Srbije knez Miloš Obrenović. PRIČE IZ AMAMA U unutrašnjosti kamenog zdanja starog Turskog kupatila danas se nalazi savremeni wellness centar. On je savremen po terapijskim metodama koje primenjuje, ali je unutrašnjost ostala verna originalu:
žensko kupatilo sa ovalnim bazenom u smaragdno zelenom kamenu, muško kupatilo odvojeno zavojitim hodnicima i teškim drvenim vratima. Između tih podvojenih sfera nalazi se posebno, malo, lično kupatilo kneza Miloša Obrenovića. Kažu da postoji jedva vidljiva rupica u kamenu kroz koju je vladar posmatrao ženski prostor. Šta je tamo video i da li mu je neka lepotica posebno zapala za oko, o tome zapisa nema. Ono što je istorija zabeležila o knezu govori da je voleo žene i da je, iako hrišćanin,
Obilazak Soko-grada poseban je doživljaj za turiste. Sa pitomih poljana popularnog izletišta Lepterija na obali Moravice staza vodi uz hučnu reku, a potom se strmo penje uvis. Nagrada za kratak, ali i naporan uspon očaravajuća je. Sa bedema Sokograda vide se okolna prostranstva. Vodič nam priča o istoriji utvrđenja i ratnim taktikama srednjeg veka. Uz katran i vrelo ulje, koje su u slučaju opsade izlivali na neprijatelje, branioci Soko-grada imali su i svoje posebne metode: razapinjali su mreže i volu-
imao sklonosti dostojne kakvog sultana. U odajama ovog lepog Amama snimane su scene filma „Zona Zamfirova“, koje dočaravaju atmosferu zajedničkog kupanja devica i žena i delikatnu intimu patrijarhalnog 19. veka. Danas posetioci kupatila imaju pravo na svoju privatnost. Voda je topla, tako da se ne preporučuje boravak duži od jednog sata. Posle kupanja u lekovitoj vodi i udisanja vodene pare koja sadrži gas radon, telo postaje lagano, a misli stišane. Nema više potrebe za žurbom. Samo jedan sat u Amamu donosi mir i spokoj.
jske kože u vodama Moravice i tako nadmudrivali nezvane osvajače. Lepo je na ovom mestu slušati eho minulog doba.
GRAD SOKOLA Banja je ime dobila po Soko-gradu, srednjovekovnom vojnom utvrđenju koje se nalazi na prirodnom vidikovcu, tik iznad kanjona Moravice.
VODA KOJE TEČE, VODA KOJA SKAČE Sokobanja je poznata po brojnim izletištima i zato, uz zrno radoznalosti, čak i duži boravak ovde jednostavno ne može da postane rutina. Plaže na Moravici su posebna celina. Postoji šest uređenih plaža, a u samom gradu nalaze se četiri, i to posve različite: Župan je senovit i šljunkovit, Tesnac se nalazi na steni tesnog useka, Šest kace i Tri kace plaže su sa prirodnim bazenima (kacama), te su po tome i dobile ime. Ne znamo zašto se još jedna lepa plaža na Moravici zove Džentlmen, ali je samo ime dovoljno da probudi ljubopitljivost.
BelGuest Summer | Leto 2014
71
The spring of Moravica river Izvor Moravice u podnožju Device takođe je prijatno mesto za odmor i celodnevne izlete. U varijacijama na temu vode Sokobanja ima još predivnih prostora: jezerce i ribnjak na izletištu Grudno pored vodopada Mala ripaljka i odmorište ispod Velike ripaljke – najvišeg vodopada Srbije. Narod ovog kraja kada hoće da kaže da neko visoko i naglo skače, koristi izraz ripiti. Tako su i brzi „vodeni skakači“ i dobili ime. NEOPISIVO ZELENO Naše sledeće odredište je izletište Očno. Nalazi se u krugu specijalne bolnice za očne bolesti „Ozren“. Na prostranoj livadi oivičenoj šumama beli se se jedna usamljena stena. Ne postoji pouzdano objašnjenje kako je ona ovde dospela. Veruje se da su je u tu pitominu spustile tajanstvene sile, a predanje kaže da su se pod okriljem golemog kamena voleli Hajduk Veljko, junak Prvog srpskog ustanka, i Čučuk Stana, neustrašiva ratnica umilnog lika. Njihova ljubav je dostojna romana, ali to je već posebna priča. Danas u pohode „Kamenu ljubavi“ dolaze parovi koji veruju da će njihova ljubav biti podjednako strasna i dugovečna. Nad ozrenskom livadom mešaju se vazdušne struje.
72
Summer | Leto 2014 BelGuest
To je jedinstvena ruža vetrova, koja u sebi nosi mnoštvo negativnih jona, koji su, uprkos nazivu, neprocenjivo blagotvorni za zdravlje. Pitali smo našeg vodiča kako se ovde leče ljudi slabog vida, a on nam je rekao da ne postoje neke posebne procedure, terapije su šetnje, duboko disanje i posmatranje zelenih predela. Ne preterujem kada kažem da u životu nisam videla sličnu, sočnu i svetlucavu boju. SMEŠTAJ I BANJSKA LEČILIŠTA Uz četiri veća hotela –„Moravica“,„Zdravljak“,„Turist“ i „Sunce“ – u Sokobanji preovlađuje privatan smeštaj. Možete odsesti u nekom od starih zdanja sa patinom istorije, modernom pansionu, apartmanu ili sobi za izdavanje. Ako ne želite da budete vezani za pansion, budite bez brige - u gradu postoji više odličnih restorana domaće kuhinje koji dostavljaju obroke ili pripremaju hranu koju želite. Kada je reč o lečilištima, ona su deo sistema zdravstvene zaštite Srbije. Specijalna bolnica „Sokobanja“ bavi sa lečenjem i prevencijom nespecifičnih plućnih bolesti. Na Ozrenu se nalazi već pomenuta Specijalna bolnice za očne i opstruktivne plućne bolesti i ona je najstarija zdravstvena ustanova u banji, a iznad gradskog parka „Banjica“
smeštena je istoimena Specijalna bolnica koja leči različita disajna oboljenja, ali i psihoneuroze i neuroze. U tim ustanovama razvijen je čitav niz terapijskih metoda koje su dostupne i ljudima koji nemaju posebne lekarske upute. AKVA-PARK I NOVI WELLNESS CENTAR Sokobanja je po strukturi svojih gostiju uspela da pobije predrasude kako su srpske banje mahom rezervisane za penzionere i ljude oronulog zdravlja. Zabavne manifestacije, etno-festivali, planinarski maratoni, ekipni sportovi, tenis, mauntbiking, livadarenje, ribolov... sve su to sadržaji koji su u banju doveli mlade i aktivne ljude. Kruna ovog razvojnog poduhvata je izgradnja Akva-parka „Podine“. „Na površini od 16.000 m2 imamo poluolimpijski bazen, kupalište za odrasle i decu i bazen sa tri atraktivna tobogana. Posebno se ponosimo što je naš Akva-park pun zelenila, kako i dolikuje Sokobanji“, ispričao nam je Ljubinko Milenković, direktor opštinske Organizacija za turizam, kulturu i sport. Uz Akva-park, koji ulazi u treću sezonu, u Sokobanji je 2013. godine otvoren garni hotel i wellness centar „Soko-terme“. Kompleks ima dva zatvorena bazena sa termomineralnom vodom i
pruža čitav spektar wellness usluga i nege lepote. VAZDUH – RADOSTAN I UMILJAT Sve inovacije i moderni sadržaji nadovezuju na osnovu prostora: Sokobanja je po duhu intimna srpska varoš. Možemo se jurcati s decom i spuštati niz tobogane Akva-parka, opuštati uz „kraljevsku masažu“ Soko-termi, ljuljuškati u toploj vodi Amama, penjati na vrh Rtnja... ali sve to prijatno ispunjavanje vremena dobija svoj potpuni smisao ako smo svesni da se nalazimo na zdravom mestu koje ljude okrepljuje i bez ikakvih „terapija“. Jedno takvo, lirsko svedočanstvo ostavila nam je poznata književnica Isidora Sekulić: ...Banja je planinama
okružena, ima šuma, ima izvora; ali najlepši je u njoj i nad njom osobeti vazduh, radostan vazduh, umiljat vazduh. Čovek oseti dotle nepoznato zadovoljstvo što ima pluća, i što po prirodi neprestano diše. Tu čovek sazna da je i srcu mio vazduh. Negde kraj izvora, pod planinom, srce više ne poteže da pumpa i radi, ono se odmara, a grudi, prepune čistog vazduha, dižu i spuštaju srce kao na oprugama. Srce u Sokobanji ne tuče, ne lupa, nego se ljuljuška. Milena Mihaljčić Foto: Organizacija za turizam, kulturu i sport Sokobanja
Info: Organizacija za turizam, kulturu i sport Sokobanja Sokobanja Organisation for tourism, culture and sport Trg oslobođenja 2 tel: + 381 18 833 988; + 381 18 833 978 e-mail: otks_sokobanja@beotel.rs twww.sokobanja.rs
Ripaljka Waterfall
Old Turkish bath
C A V E S
O F
E A S T E R N
S E R B I A
M A GIC OF UNDERG S
ince his youth, when he first began nurturing his craft, artistic photographer Stanko Kostić has diligently recorded the beauty of nature and explored the ethnographic and cultural heritage of Serbia. His topics are “disappearing villages”, “people, costumes and customs”, “handicrafts”, “folk construction”, “Orthodox Culture” etc. Above all, Stanko loves nature and eastern Serbia, where he grew up. He bequeathed to the County Museum of Petrovac na Mlavi a legacy of selected works that represent a kind of summary of his art, as well as “an ethnographic study of the heritage of eastern Serbia”. Constantly on the road, through his photographs, exhibits and reportages, Stanko seeks with immense zeal to introduce as many people as possible to the little known or completely unfamiliar landscapes of Eastern Serbia. One of the unusual features of this area is the huge number of caves, which are so abundant that they have not yet even been completely listed. “In the mountains of eastern Serbia, limestone rocks occupy a large area. The effect of erosion created a multitude of sinkholes, coves, cliffs, waterfalls, caves etc. This is a marvellous phenomenon of the region containing the largest concentration of caves in Serbia. For a long time I’ve been exploring this magical underground area and recently I was on a thematic journey during which I recorded the fairy tale scenes of Rajko's cave, Ravništarka, Ceremošnja, Lazar’s cave and Bogovinska cave. My choice was also the cave Pogana Peć, which was recently discovered and is not yet available to visitors. However, I still wanted to introduce it, because in her 'living womb' you can see very well how nature shapes its most beautiful scenery,” says Kostić, introducing us to the world of halls, figurines and sparkling ornaments.
The Hall of Hajduks
ROUND W ORLDS RAVNIŠTARKA – BLACK HALL Ravništarka cave is located on the northwestern slopes of Homolje mountains, close to Kučevo. It can be reached via a tarmac road that also leads to Ceremošnja cave. The roaring Ponorac stream flows through Ravništarka. The cave is divided into nine areas, amongst which are the cave halls known as the Black and White palaces. The Black Palace really appears mysterious and was named after the dark rocks that are interspersed with limestone and calcite. It is worth to see Pretty Ravništarka, the composition of wall decorations made from sparkling white crystalline calcite. Because of its beauty, this composition was selected as the cave’s trademark.
BOGOVINSKA “THREE-STOREY” Bogovinska cave is located in the village of Bogovina near the town of Boljevac. It is one of the longest caves in Serbia – according to research, its channel cover a total length of 5842 metres. The channels are arranged in three levels. Through the lower floor – the Sinking channel – water flows constantly, while the upper – the High channel – is dry. Through the middle floor, which comprises the majority of the cave, water sometimes flows, giving this cave the features of a water source cave. Pathways for visitors have been arranged on the middle level and lead to the cave’s largest auditorium, which is enriched by a variety of cave ornaments.
RAJKO’S CAVE – HIGHWAYMAN’S HIDEOUT This cave is located near the town of Majdanpek and, according to local tradition, was named after a brigand called Rajko, who held up merchant caravans and hid the treasures he took in the cave. Under its arches we are introduced to an entire world of different forms: from Hedgehog Hall, via the Wintry Fairy Tale and the Crystal Forest, all the way to the Shimmering Lake. What is particularly beautiful here are the decorations of snow-white, sparkling calcite. Interestingly, Rajko's cave was first explored by Serbia’s greatest geographer, Jovan Cvijić, back in 1894.
BelGuest BelGuest Summer Spring| |LLeto eto2014 2014
75
Pogana peć - Homoljka statue
Lazar’s cave - the Bull
CEREMOŠNJA – UNDERGROUND AMPITHEATRE This cave is located in the vicinity of Ravništarka, on the slopes of the highest peak of the Homolje mountains. It is divided into five sections, the most notable of which is the circular hall that is very reminiscent of the amphitheatres of ancient Rome and, as such, was named as the Arena. The ornaments of this cave hall are monumental: the pillar On the eternal guard and the cascading waterfall. The Arena also includes Pretty Vlajna, a slim and tall snow-white figure of crystalline calcite that represents the women of this region. Of the many items of cave jewellery, one of the stand-out elements is the unusual colour laced through the so-called Cracked sphere.
LUXURIOUS LAZAR’S CAVE According to legend, this cave was named after Serbian Prince Lazar Hrebeljanović. It is located near the village of Zlot, on the eastern slopes of the Kučaj mountain range. In addition to magnificent halls and ornaments, Lazar’s cave is an extremely important archaeological site. It is also interesting that its vastness is home to a large colony of bats, which people from this area consider to be especially lucky symbols. Particularly noteworthy are the Entrance Hall, Concert Hall and Hall of Bats. Visitors here are also awaited by beautiful examples of cave ornaments that bear interesting associative names: Conductor, Fontana, Tower of Prince Lazar.
POGANA PEĆ – CONCERT FOR THE HARP AND AN ORCHESTRA Discovered only recently, this cave is classed as one of the gems of Homolje. It is located on the northern side of Gornjac Mountain in the vicinity of the village of Krepoljin, near Žagubica. “The high concentration of stalactites, stalagmites, draperies and other forms of the preserved and intact ornamental spectrum of colours lures a man with its primeval beauty and harmony,” wrote Dr. Ljupče Miljković Ph.D., describing his experience of this space. The Main Hall or Concert Hall has amazing acoustics and houses the imposing “petrified harp”. Here colours overflow from crystal white to dark brown. The Chocolate Hall is covered by chocolate-coloured ornaments, while Simonida Hall is a proper museum from the world of fairy tales.
P E Ć I N E
I S T O Č N E
S R B I J E
ČAROBNE SCENOGRAFIJE PODZEMNIH SVETOVA S
tanko Kostić, likovni umetnik fotografije, od mladih dana, od kako je ispekao fotografski zanat, predano beleži lepote prirode i istražuje etnografsko i kulturno nasleđe Srbije. Njegove teme su „selo koje nestaje”, „ljudi, nošnje i običaji”, „stari zanati”, „narodno graditeljstvo”, „pravoslavna umetnost”... Iznad svega, Stanko voli prirodu i istočnu Srbiju u kojoj je odrastao. Zavičajnom muzeju Petrovca na Mlavi zaveštao je legat odabranih radova koji predstavljaju jednu vrstu sižea njegove umetnosti, kao i „etnografsku studiju nasleđa istočne Srbije”. Neprestano na putu, svojim fotografijama, izložbama i reportažama, Stanko Kostić sa ogromnom žarom nastoji da što više ljudi upozna s malo poznatim ili sasvim nepoznatim krajolicima Istočne Srbije. Jedna od neobičnih odlika ovog kraja je ogroman broj pećina, kojih ima toliko da još uvek nisu do kraja ni pobrojane. „U planinama istočne Srbije krečnjačke stene zauzimaju veliko prostranstvo. Delovanjem erozije nastalo je mnoštvo vrtača, uvala, klisura, vodopada, pećina... To je čudesan fenomen ovog podneblja u kojem postoji najveća koncentracija pećina u Srbiji. Već dugo istražujem ove čarobne podzemne prostore, a nedavno sam bio na tematskom putovanju na kojem sam beležio bajkovite prizore Rajkove pećine, Ravništarke, Ceremošnje, Lazareve i Bogovinske pećine. Moj izbor je bila i pećina 'Pogana peć', koja je nedavno otkrivena i koja još nije dostupna posetiocima. Ipak želim i nju da je predstavim, jer se u njenoj 'živoj utrobi' lepo vidi kako priroda oblikuje svoje najlepše scenografije”, kaže Stanko Kostić, uvodeći nas u svet dvorana, figurina, svetlucavog nakita.
Pretty Vlajna
RAJKOVA PEĆINA - SKROVIŠTE HAJDUKA Ova pećina se nalazi nadomak Majdanpeka, a ime je, prema predanju, dobila po hajdučkom harambaši Rajku, koji je pljačkao trgovačke karavane i u njoj skrivao oteto blago. Pod njenim svodovima srećemo se s čitavim svetom različitih oblika: od Ježeve dvorane, preko Zimske bajke, Kristalne šume, do Treperavog jezerca. Ono što je posebno u njoj lepo, to su ukarsi od snežno belog, iskričavog kalcita. Zanimljivo je da je Rajkovu pećinu prvi istražio naš najveći geograf Jovan Cvijić 1894. godine. BOGOVINSKA „TROSPRATNICA” Bogovinska pećina se nalazi u selu Bogovina u blizini varoši Boljevac. Ona je jedna od najdužih pećina u Srbiji - prema istraživanjima, ukupna dužina njenih kanala iznosi 5842 metra. Kanali su postavljeni u tri etaže. Kroz donji sprat - Ponorski kanal - stalno protiče voda, dok je gornji - Visoki kanal - suv. Kroz srednju etažu, koja čini najveći deo pećine, povremeno protiče voda, što ovoj pećini daje obeležje izvorske pećine. Uređene staza za posetioce napravljene su u srednjoj etaži i njome se stiže do najveće dvorane koja obiluje raznovrsnim pećinskim naktom.
Ravništarka cave RAVNIŠTARKA - CRNI DVORAC Pećina Ravništarka se nalazi na severozapadnim obroncima Homoljskih planina, nadomak Kučeva. Do nje vodi asfaltni put kojim se, takođe, može stići i do pećine Ceremošnja. Kroz Ravništarku teče hučni potok Ponorac. Pećina ima devet celina, od kojih izdvajam dvorane koje su nazvane Crni i Beli dvorac. Crni dvorac zaista deluje tajanstveno, a dobio je ime po tamnim stenama koje su prošarane sigom i kalcitom. Vredno je videti Lepu Ravništarku, kompoziciju zidnih ukrasa od iskričavog, belog kristalnog kalcita. Zbog svoje lepote, ova kompozicija odabrana je za zaštitni znak pećine. POGANA PEĆ - KONCERT ZA HARFU I ORKESTAR Nedavno otkrivena, ova pećina spada među dragulje Homolja. Nalazi se na severnoj strani Gornjačkih planina u ataru selu Krepoljin nadomak Žagubice. „Velika koncentracija stalaktita, stalagmita, draperija i drugih oblika očuvanih i netaknutih, ukrašenih spektrom svih boja omamljuju čoveka iskonskom lepotom i skladom”, opisao je svoj doživljaj ovog prostora prof. dr Ljupče Miljković. Glavna ili Koncertna dvorana je neverovatno akustična. U noj se nalaze impozantne „okamenjene harfe”. Boje se prelivaju od kristalno bele do tamno braon. Čokoladnu dvoranu prekriva nakita boje čokolade, a Simonidina dvorana je pravi muzej iz sveta bajki.
80
Summer | Leto 2014 BelGuest
CEREMOŠNJA - PODZEMNI AMFITEATAR Ova pećina se nalazi u neposrednoj blizini Ravništarke, na obroncima najvišeg vrha Homoljskih planina. U njoj se izdvaja pet celina, a najznačajnija je dvorana kružnog oblika koja veoma podseća na amfiteatre starog Rima, pa je zato i dobila ime Arena. Nakit ove dvorane je monumentalan: stub Na večnoj straži i Kaskadni Vodopad. U Areni se nalazi i Lepa Vlajna, vitka i visoka snežno bela figura od kristalnog kalcita koja predstavlja ženu ovog podneblja. U mnoštvu nakita, izdvaja se i neobična, bojom protkana Raspukla sfera.
Stanko Kostić
RASKOŠ LAZAREVE PEĆINE Po legendi, pećina je dobila ime po srpskom knezu Lazaru Hrebeljanoviću. Nalazi se nedaleko od sela Zlot, na istočnim padinama Kučaja. Pored velelepnih dvorana i nakita, Lazareva pećina je izuzetno značajno arheološko nalazište. Takođe, zanimljivo je što u njenim prostranstvima žive velika jata slepih miševa, koje ljudi iz ovog kraja smatraju posebno srećnim znamenjem . Posebno se izvajaju Ulazna dvorana, Koncertna dvorana i Dvorana slepih miševa. Posetioce ovde očekuju i prelepi primerci pećinskog nakita koji nose zanimljive asocijativne nazive: Dirigent, Fontana, Kula kneza Lazara.
BelGuest Summer | Leto 2014
81
I N T E R V I E W - U R O Š PA R L I Ć , D I R E C TO R O F T H E TO U R I S T O R G A N I S AT I O N O F N I Š
SOUTHERN COSMOPOLITANISM Some recognise Niš for the emperors Constantine and Diocletian, some for the heroism Stevan Sinđelić, some for the gentle words of Stevan Sremac or the melancholic singing of Branko Miljković, and increasingly for the echoes of the Nišville Festival, where a unique sound merges original jazz and the musical traditions of the Balkans. With a monumental heritage and dynamic events, this city is recognised primarily for its “best dress” – for its warmth and southern openness.
“N
iš has managed to preserve its tradition and patriarchal humility and it sincerely looks forward to guests. The biography of the city is fatefully determined by the fact that it is truly a border between East and West. While dreaming of going west, Niš never forgot its eastern origins. More than a century ago, on the city square that today bears the name of King Milan, standing side by side were the hotels New York and Orient, a little further away are the noble taverns Šuman (Schumann) and Sinđelić”, says Uroš Parlić, director of the Tourist Organisation of the City of Niš, speaking to BelGuest. You say that in addition to many achievements in terms of civilisation, the greatest Niš patents are love and optimism? - Yes, where else could emperor Constantine have been born? Only in a city that always knew how to love was it possible for Constantius Chlorus, a high ranking Roman officer, to marry the beautiful Helena, an inn-keeper's daughter, and have a son with her who, upon becoming Roman emperor, would use the Edict of Milan to recognise Christianity and thus ensure love and optimism
82
Summer | Leto 2014 BelGuest
serve principles. To be a Christian means to love people, while a belief in God is an optimistic attitude towards the future! You are very proud of your hometown. - If the world has a navel, then it's right here. Niš is, admittedly, somewhat younger than Jericho, but it is significantly older than Babylon. In the 3rd century BC the Celts took the city and named it, once and for all – Vilin grad (Elvish city), Naisa. For centuries peoples and armies took turns holding the city, while Naisa weaved its cosmopolitan spirit. How does one get to know Niš? - Tourists are helped greatly by signs that encompasse 80 cultural/historical monuments, including the Niš fort and monuments within it. Tourist signs also direct visitors to the esteemed Niška Banja spa, as well as the nearby gorges - Jelašnička and Sićevačka, and further on to the Suva mountains, Svirljiška Mountain and Calafat, while each of these venues offers a variety of beauty and adventure. You need to breathe deeply, look to see the sky and feel the freedom, walk or ride a bike to a lookout point, journey down the Nišava in a kayak, test
your own limits by participating in extreme sports. Where can one meet that famous, blissful spirit of Niš? - It is more than a logical assumption that Bacchus, the god of wine and theatre, grew up right here. That it is not just Niš folk bragging, but rather is proved by the fact that here taverns become theatres with dramatic speed and vice versa. On that “surface” are based the foundations of the Niš “Film gatherings”, which bring together the best Serbian actors. And, thank God, Niš still today “lives in taverns in the Southern way”. As a good host, I also want to let you in on the secret of how to recover after tavern nights. You will never receive a prescription for this medicine and its name is burek! This powerful antidepressant was born in the late 15th century in this very city. Text & photography: Roza Sazdić Info: Tourist Organisation of Niš Vožda Karađorđa St. 7 www.visitnis.com
I N T E R V J U - U R O Š PA R L I Ć , D I R E K TO R T U R I S T I Č K E O R G A N I Z A C I J E N I Š A
JUŽNJAČKI KOSMOPOLITIZAM Neki Niš prepoznaju po carevima Konstantinu i Dioklecijanu, neko po heroizmu Stevana Sinđelića, neko po blagoj reči Stevana Sremca ili tužnom pevanju Branka Miljkovića, a sve češće i po odjeku Nišville festivala gde se u jedinstvenom zvuku spajaju izvorni džez i muzička tradicija Balkana. Uz spomeničko nasleđe i dinamične manifestacije, ovaj grad se prepoznaje, pre svega, po svom „najboljem odelu” - po toplini i velikom srcu.
“N
iš je uspeo da sačuva svoju tradiciju i patrijahalnu smernost i iskreno se raduje gostima. Biografija grada sudbinski je određena činjenicom da je on istinska granica Istoka i Zapada. Sanjajući da ode na zapad, Niš nikada nije zaboravljao svoje istočno poreklo. Na Trgu, koji danas nosi ime kralja Milana, pre više od 100 godina jedan do drugog stajali su hotel „Njujork” i hotel „Orjent”, nešto dalje nobl kafana „Šuman” i kafana „Sinđelić”, kaže za BelGuest Uroš Parlić, direktor TO Grada Niša.
lepote i avanture. Treba udahnuti duboko, videti nebo i osetiti slobodu, pešačiti ili voziti bicikl do nekog vidikovca, spustiti se kajakom niz Nišavu, ispitati sopstvene granice baveći se ekstremnim sportovima. A gde upoznati onaj čuveni, meraklijski duh Niša? - Više nego logična pretpostavka je da je Bahus, bog vina i pozorišta, odrastao upravo ovde. Da to nije puko niško hvalisanje, dokazuju činjenice da
su ovde kafane dramatičnom brzinom postajale pozorišta i obrnuto. Na toj „podlozi“ utemeljeni su i niški „Filmski susreti“, koji okupljaju najbolje srpske glumce. I Bogu hvala, Niš i danas „na južnjački način živi u kafanama“. Kao dobar domaćin, želim da vam odam i tajnu kako se lečiti posle kafanske noći. Ovaj lek nikada nećete dobiti na recept, a zove se burek! Taj moćan antidepresiv rođen je krajem 15. veka, baš u ovom gradu. Tekst i fotografije: Roza Sazdić
Kažete da su, i pored brojnih civilizacijskih dostignuća, najveći niški patenti ljubav i optimizam? - Da, pa gde se drugo mogao roditi car Konstantin? Samo u gradu koji je uvek umeo da voli, bilo je moguće da Konstancije Hlorus, rimski oficir visokog ranga, oženi lepu Jelenu, gostioničarevu kći, i sa njom dobije sina koji je, postavši rimski car, Milanskim ediktom priznao hrišćanstvo, a time ljubav i optimizam učinio principima. Biti hrišćanin znači voleti ljude, a verovanje u Boga je optimistički odnos prema budućnosti! Mnogo se ponosite svojim rodnim gradom. - Ako svet ima pupak, onda je on upravo ovde. Niš je, doduše, nešto mlađi od Jerihona, ali je značajno stariji od Vavilona. U 3. veku pre nove ere, Kelti su zauzeli grad i dali mu ime, jednom za svagda - Vilin grad, Naisa. Vekovima, ovde su se smenjivali narodi i vojske, a Niš je tkao svoj kosmopolitski duh. Kako upoznati Niš? - Turistima je od velike pomoći signalizacija koja obuhvata 80 kulturno – istorijskih spomenika, uključujući Nišku tvrđavu i spomenike u njoj. Putnike signalizacija upućuje i do cenjene Niške Banje, kao i do obližnjih klisura – Jelašničke i Sićevačke, i dalje do Suve planine, Svrljiških planina i Kalafata, a svako od ovih mesta nudi različite
BelGuest Summer | Leto 2014
83
WELCOMING THE 54 th GUČA TRUMPET FESTIVAL – AN INTERVIEW WITH ADAM TADIĆ
THE POWER OF MAGIC HORNS It began as a competition between four trumpet compositions from Dragačevo in the Guča churchyard in 1961. This trumpet convocation grew year on year and the churchyard has long been unable to accommodate all the fans of the trumpet. To date this little town of 2,000 inhabitants has been visited by over ten million people!
T
he Guča Festival is unique in the world when it comes to competitive music between brass bands, but it also gathers other performers of traditional music, as well as writers and artists. Like a good tune, “every Guča” is unrepeatable and unique. The festival begins with the song “From Ovčar and Kablar”, which can be heard from hundreds of trumpets, and when it's all over the winning orchestra performs at a traditional dinner for the organizers. And then, Adam Tadić, director of the local Centre for Culture and Sports, invites the trumpeters and spends a long time, with eyes closed and a broad smile on his face, enjoying the sounds.
that my idea for the youngest to participate in this celebration was accepted well. Under the auspices of the programme we also organize concerts by masters of the trumpet and famous artists, and the midnight concert that traditionally attracts a large number of visitors. Additionally, we also present books and publications that have been published by the Centre for Culture and Sport, organize toasting competitions, the selection of the most beautiful national costumes, folk show, brass alarm and participants parade. All programme contents are “packed” into the five days. Therefore, there is no time for rest, says BelGuest’s interlocutor.
At rare moments we can see that behind your serious façade hides an immense love for the trumpet. - From childhood I’ve carried that passion inside me. I participated in the festival as a child, along with my parents who made an improvisation of old Dragačevo weddings. It is now part of the festival’s rich programme. The most important event, of course, is the competition between senior orchestras, but youth and pioneer orchestras compete for some of the prestigious awards. I’m proud
This year, from 6th to 10th August the 54th festival will be held. There has been a notable increase in the number of guests and an increasingly improved reputation of this trumpet festival. - We have invested a lot in public relations and significantly expanded the programme’s contents since 2004, when I was appointed director of the centre that co-organizes the festival together with the Guča Local Community. We do a lot of work in order to contribute to a greater
84
Summer | Leto 2014 BelGuest
number of visitors, while the concept has been somewhat changed and adapted to suit young people, who come, drawn to the magical sound of the trumpet, from even the most distant countries in the world. Guča does not only belong to the people of Dragačevo. It shows the richness and diversity of our cultural heritage and our spirit. Guests leave smiling and satisfied, while we prepare the festival in such a way that nobody can fail to find content for themselves. Music connects us all. The glory of Guča is spread by the Serbian trumpeters whose performance leads to perfection. Orchestras come to us from the U.S., Brazil, France, Slovenia, Poland etc. They always each play one Serbian kolo or folk song and try to reach that “thriller”, that folk charm, but they do not know how. They cannot feel our rich folklore. What drives you to work so hard? - Three things. I live in Guča. I was born not far from here, in the village of Donji Dubac. And I feel the trumpet in my heart! Tekst i fotografije: Roza Sazdić
U S U S R E T 5 4. S A B O R U T R U B A Č A - I N T E R V J U A D A M TA D I Ć
MOĆ MAGIČNE TRUBE
Počelo je kao takmičenje četiri trubačka sastava iz Dragačeva u porti crkve u Guči 1961.godine. Sabor trubača rastao je iz godine u godinu, a crkvena porta odavno ne može da primi sve poklonike trube. Do sada, ovu malu varoš sa 2000 stanovnika, posetilo je preko deset miliona ljudi!
S
abor u Guči jedinstven je u svetu po muzičkom takmičenju trubačkih orkestara, ali okuplja i druge izvođače tradicionalne muzike, kao i pisce i umetnike. „Svaka Guča“ je neponovljiva i posebna, i uvek počinje isto: pesmom „Sa Ovčara i Kablara“ koja se čuje iz stotine truba. A kada se sve završi, na večeri koja se tradicionalno priređuje za organizatore Sabora sviraju nagrađeni orkestri. I tek tada, Adam Tadić, direktor Centra za kulturu i sport, dugo, zatvorenih očiju, sa širokim osmehom na licu, uživa u zvuku trube. U retkim trenucima možemo videti da se iza Vašeg ozbiljnog lica krije neizmerna ljubav prema trubi. - Od detinjstva nosim u sebi taj žar. Učestvovao sam na Sabora još kao dete, zajedno sa roditeljima koji su napravili improvizaciju stare dragačevske svadbe. Ona je i danas deo bogatog saborskog programa. Najznačajniji događaj je, svakako, takmičenje seniorskih orkestara, ali za neko od prestižniih odličja nadmeću su i omladinski i pionirski orkestri. Ponosim se time što je moja ideja da i najmlađi učestvuju u ovoj svetkovini, lepo prihvaćena. U okviru programa organizujemo i koncerte majstora trube i poznatih umetnika, ponoćni koncert koji tradicionalno privlači veliki broj posetilaca. Pored toga, predstavljmo knjige i publikacije koje je objavio Centar za kulturu i sport, organizujemo takmičenje zdravičara, izbor najlepše narodne nošnje, narodni višeboj, trubačku budilicu i defile
učesnika ulicama Guče. Svi programski sadržaji „spakovani su” u pet dana. Zato, vremena za predah nema, kaže za BelGuest naš sagovornik. Ove godine, od 6. do 10. avgusta, održava se 54. Sabor. Primetan je sve veći broj gostiju i sve bolja reputacija trubačke smotre. - Uložili smo puno u propagandu i značajno proširili programski sadržaj od kako sam 2004. godine postavljen za direktora Centra, koji zajedno sa MZ Guča organizuje Sabor. Puno radimo da bismo doprineli većoj posećenosti , a i koncept je donekle promenjen i prilagođen mladima, koji, privučeni magičnim zvukom trube, dolaze čak i iz najudaljenih zemalja sveta. Guča ne pripada samo Dragačevcima. Ona pokazuje bogatstvo i raznolikost naše kulturne baštine i naš duh. Gosti odlaze nasmejani, zadovoljni, a Sabor pripremimo tako da nema čoveka koji ne može da nađe sadržaj za sebe. Sve nas povezuje muzika. Slavu Guče proneli su srpski trubači koji muziciranje dovode do savršenstva. Na međunarodnom takmičenju učestvuju orkestri iz Amerike, Brazila, Francuske, Slovenije, Poljske... i po propozicijama, treba da sviraju srpsko kolo ili pesmu. Sviraju tačno, „školski”, ali ne mogu da osete „naš zvuk”. Šta Vas pokreće da toliko radite? - Tri stvari. Živim u Guči. Rođen sam nedaleko odavde, u selu Donji Dubac. Trubu osećam dušom! Tekst i fotografije : Rozana Sazdić
Info: Centre for Culture and Sports of the Municipality of Lučani in Guča Tel: + 381 (0) 32 854 110 www.saborguca.com domtrube@yahoo.com
BelGuest Summer | Leto 2014
85
M E M O R I A L
H O U S E
O F
M A R T I N
J O N Á Š
A PLOUGHMAN'S RHAPSODY
Kovačica, a small Slovak village in Banat, is said to be the world metropolis of naïve art. Martin Jonáš is one of the most important representatives of the Kovačica naïve art; he is the man who created his own artistic expression: the farmer with large hands and feet and a tiny head is in the centre of his paintings. On the occasion of the 90th anniversary of the birth of the artist of world renown, his memorial house was opened in Kovačica.
“I
t all began in my early childhood. As a boy I was always hiding under my father’s big table in our family house, listening to the conversations about hard work; I saw the hunger and poor harvest, but I learned a lot about the importance of happiness. That was my school... I remember well those heavy palms – hanging under the table, resting. I can see them until today, and I portray them constantly,”Jonáš wrote. WISH FULFILLED The house of Martin Jonáš is a unique testimony of this artist’s life and his collecting passion: “The walls of the room in which he painted are covered with photographs, medals and various diplomas. The shelves are filled with professional literature, folders with abundant correspondence, magazines and newspapers from the whole world with written reports about the author – a valuable archive of articles and photographs. There is also a collection of paintings,
86
Summer | Leto 2014 BelGuest
historical documents, books and old periodical literature related to the history of the Slovak community in Vojvodina,” it is written in the catalogue of Jonáš’s memorial house. In addition to about one hundred and fifty Jonáš’s paintings, the collection contains works of many other authors that he passionately collected and guarded. His collection of hand-painted plates, Slovak costumes, and a collection of Orthodox icons are also on the display. The memorial house of Martin Jonáš was officially opened for the public on 10 May 2014, thereby fulfilling the wish of this great representative of the Slovak naïve art. The Slovak government, the government of Vojvodina, the National Council of the Slovak national minority and the municipality of Kovačica were involved in the venture. TWO AND TWO MAKE FOUR Martin Jonáš during his life exhibited in over 450
solo and group exhibitions in nearly 50 countries worldwide. His paintings are in the collections of many world galleries. For his work, he received more than 50 awards. One of the greatest awards he got is the golden medallion at the International Exhibition of Drawings in 1978 in Italy, where the same award went also to the famous Salvador Dali and Ranato Guttuso. Interestingly, Jonáš’s five templates for graphic were cast in gold. “Clearly and without unnecessary details, with my paintings I want to say that two and two make four. To depict life and work, love and death, joy and pain as they actually are... I use shortcuts, skipping all the irrelevant things,” Jonáš summarised as his artistic credo. His house became yet another place on the map of exquisite gallery spaces of naïve art of Kovačica. BelGuest Photo: Gallery of naïve art Kovačica
S P O M E N
K U Ć A
M A R T I N A
J O N A Š A
RATARSKA RAPSODIJA
Kovačica, malo slovačko selo u Banatu slovi za svetsku metropolu naivne umetnosti. Jedan od najznačajnijih predstavnika kovačičke naive je Martin Jonaš, čovek koji je stvorio sopstveni likovni izraz: u središtu njegovih slika je seljak ogromnih šaka i stopala i majušne glave. Povodom 90 godina od rođenja ovog umetnika svetskog glasa u Kovačici je je otvoren njegov Spomen dom.
“S
ve je počelo još kada sam bio mali dečak, stalno sam se sakrivao ispod očevog velikog stola. U porodičnoj kući slušao sam razgovore o teškom radu, video glad i lošu žetvu, ali sam mnogo naučio i o značaju sreće. Bila je to moja škola... dobro se sećam tih teških dlanova, kako vise ispod stola i odmaraju. Vidim ih i dan-danas i stalno ih slikam”, pisao je Jonaš. ISPUNJENA ŽELJA Kuća Martina Jonaša je upečatljivo svedočanstvo o celini njegovog stvaralaštva i njegove kolekcionarske strasti: „Zidovi sobe u kojoj je slikao prekrivene su fotografijama, medaljama i diplomama. Police prepune stručne literature, fascikle s obimnom korespodencijom, časopisi i novine iz celog sveta sa reportažama o umetniku - dragocen arhiv članaka i fotografija. Tu je i zbirka slika, istorijskih dokumenta, knjiga i starih porodičnih izdanja vezanih za istoriju slovačke zajednice u Vojvodini”, piše u katalogu Jonašovog Spomen doma. U zaostavštini, pored oko stopedeset Jonošovih slika, ostala su i dela mnogih drugih autora koje je on sa strašću otkupljivao i čuvao. Izložena je i njegova zbirka rukom oslikanih tanjira, slovačkih nošnji, zbirka pravoslavnih ikona. Spomen kuća Martina Jonaša svečano je otvorena za javnost 10. maja 2014. godine, čime je ispunjena želja velikana slovačkog naivnog slikarstva. U ovom poduhvatu učestvovala je Vlada Slovačke, Vlada Vojvodine, Nacionalni savet slovačke nacionalne manjine i Opština Kovačica. DVA I DVA SU ČETIRI Martin Jonaš je za života izlagao na više od 450 samostalnih i kolektivnih izložbi u skoro 50 zemalja sveta. Njegove slike se nalaze u kolekcijama mnogih svetskih galerija. Za svoje stvaralaštvo dobio je više od 50 priznanja. Jedno od najvećih je Zlatna medalja na međunarodnoj izložbi crteža 1978. godine u Italiji na kojoj su to isto prizananje dobili i čuveni Salvador Dali i Ranato Gutuzo. Zanimljivo je da je pet Jonošovih predložaka za grafiku izliveno u zlatu. „Jasno, bez suvišnih detalja, na svojim slikama želim da pokažem da su dva i dva četiri. Kakvi su zapravo život i rad, ljubav i smrt, radost i bol... Koristim skraćenice, preskačem sve ono nebitno”, sažeo je je Jonaš svoj umetnički kredo. Njegova kuća je postala još jedna tačka na mapi izvanrednih galerijskih prostora naivne umetnosti Kovačice. BelGuest Foto: Galerija naivne umetnosti Kovačica
I N T E R N A T I O N A L
S C H O O L
O F
WHERE WE ARE IN PLACE AND TIME
B E L G R A D E
We take great pride, here at the International School of Belgrade, in the knowledge that our students are inspired and empowered to take action, and to apply their learning to real-world problems, such as the current floods in Serbia.
I
n our Lower School, Grade 4 student-initiated action was a response to learning about the plight of refugees, especially refugee children, during their current ‘Where We Are in Place and Time’ unit of inquiry. They initiated and organized a whole school ‘Clothing and Footwear Drive’ before the extent of the flood damage was known, even before it became an entire ISB Community effort to aid Serbia’s flood-affected victims. Grade 4 students had immediately reached out to help others, wanting to make a difference, as “our little can mean so much to someone who has nothing!” FULL-SCALE ENGAGEMENT When all learned of the dire situation when Serbia was hit with catastrophic floods, the worst in 120 years; Grade 4’s Clothing and Footwear Drive evolved into a full-scale whole-school Flood Relief, of all types of donations: blankets, bedding, clothes, footwear, food, water, medication, and other necessities, including financial assistance, to help all those affected by the flood. Grade 4 and other ISB Lower School students collected, sorted, and accompanied the delivery of all the donations to the flood victims. They also initiated and organized fundraising projects, such
88
Summer | Leto 2014 BelGuest
as bake sales to raise money for those affected by the flood. In addition, students wrote letters of hope, and during Serbia’s 3-day mourning period, participated in a minute of silence, in memory of all those who had lost their lives. The response to the disaster from our Upper School was equally incredible. We heard immediately from parents, students, and teachers, asking for the school to organize a donation drive. In just a few days, our gymnasium was filled with clothes, diapers, water, canned food, etc. in response to a call for donations. Our Upper School students helped out by sorting and delivering the goods to evacuee centers around the city and held a school-wide assembly to explain what happened and outlined our school’s relief efforts. ISB also identified a school in Obrenovac to support their recovery. Throughout our efforts we earned the support from other Central and Eastern European Schools Association (CEESA) asking how they could support our school initiatives. RAISING EMPATHETIC AND CARING CHILDREN There is much more work still to be done to get the flood victims’ lives back to normal. The school hopes to continue helping and community service support will continue over the next several months.
With all of this sadness and tragedy, it has been wonderful to see the kindness and caring of the people of Serbia and our ISB community. It is also nice as international educators to get the opportunity to help out our host nation of Serbia and make a difference in the lives of those impacted by the disaster. One of the most powerful phrases in the mission statement of ISB is that we empower students to contribute as globally aware citizens. We are proud of the actions our students have taken, in order to help the flood victims in Serbia, and that, at ISB, we are raising children who are empathetic and caring, who truly want to make this a better world, by giving from the heart. At ISB, the spirit of helping others is not exclusive to the students; it is heart-warming to see our entire ISB community reaching out to the local community, and seeing the massive support to alleviate the suffering caused by these devastating floods! As an ISB educator, I know that the International School of Belgrade truly is a caring community that is always willing to take action, and lend a helping hand, especially to alleviate the misery of those who need it the most! International School of Belgrade
I N T E R N A T I O N A L
S C H O O L
O F
B E L G R A D E
BITI NA PRAVOM MESTU, U PRAVO VREME
Svi mi iz Internacionalne škole u Beogradu (ISB) se veoma ponosimo saznanjem da su naši učenici, primenjujući sve ono što su naučili, bili i nadahnuti i sposobni da daju pravi odgovor na stvarne životne probleme koje su izazvale nedavne poplave u Srbiji.
A
kcija koju su pokrenuli učenici četvrtog razreda Osnovne škole bila je primena onoga što su u okviru nastavnog programa „Budimo na pravom mestu u pravo vreme,” naučili o teškoćama sa kojima se suočavaju izbeglice, naročito izbegla deca. I pre nego što su bile poznate razmere katastrofe i pre nego što je čitava ISB zajednica stigla da se uključi, đaci četvrtog razreda su se pokrenuli i organizovali akciju za prikupljanje odeće i obuće na nivou cele škole. Želeli su da učine nešto suštinski važno, znajući da u takvim okolnostima „naše malo znači mnogo nekome ko ništa nema!”
SVEOBUHVATAN ODGOVOR U trenutku kada su svi već bili upoznati sa teškom situacijom izazvanom katastrofalnim poplavama u Srbiji, najgorim u poslednjih 120 godina, akcija za prikupljanje odeće i obuće učenika četvrtog razreda prerasla je u sveobuhvatnu akciju na nivou škole. Prikupljane su sve vrste donacija: ćebad, posteljina, odeća, obuća, hrana, voda, lekovi i druge potrepštine, uključujući novčanu pomoć, kako bi se pomoglo svima onima koji su pogođeni. Učenici četvrtog i ostalih razreda Osnovne škole ISB su prikupili, razvrstali i otpremili donacija za žrtve poplava. Oni su, takođe, pokrenuli i organizovali prodajne bazare peciva i kolača i tako sakupili novac za ljude pogođene poplavama. Pored toga, učenici su pisali poruke nade, a tokom trodnevne žalosti u Srbiji održali su minutu ćutanja u znak sećanja na sve one koji su izgubili živote. Podjednako izuzetan odgovo dala je i Srednja škola. Na vesti o poplavama odmah su reagovali roditelji, učenici i nastavnici, tražeći od škole da organizuje akciju prikupljanja donacija. Za samo nekoliko dana, kao odgovor na upućen poziv, naša fiskulturna sala bila je puna odeće, pelena, vode, konzervirane hrane, itd. Učenici Srednje škole pomagali su u razvrstavanju i isporuci robe centrima za evakuaciju širom grada i održali su skup na nivou čitave škole kako bi objasnili šta se događa i šta škola čini na pružanju pomoći. Takođe, odabrali smo jednu školu u Obrenovcu kojoj ćemo pružati podršku tokom obnove. U našim naporima dobili smo i podršku Asocijacije škola centralne i istočne Evrope (CEESA), čiji su članovi zainteresovani da podrže inicijative naše škole.
ODGAJANJE SAOSEĆAJNE I BRIŽNE DECE Ostalo je još mnogo toga da se uradi kako bi se žrtve poplava vratile u normalan život. Škola će nastaviti da pruža pomoć i naša služba za podršku zajednici nastavlja s radom tokom narednih meseci. Uprkos svoj tuzi i tragediji, bilo je divno videti dobrotu i brižnost stanovništva Srbije i naše ISB zajednice. Takođe, lepo je što nam se, kao međunarodnoj obrazovnoj ustanovi, pružila prilika da pomognemo našim domaćinima u Srbiji i unesemo promene u živote onih koji su pogođeni katastrofom. Jedno od najmoćnijih načela u misiji škole jeste da decu učimo da doprinose društvu kao globalno svesni građani. Ponosni smo na sve ono što su naši učenici preduzeli kako bi pomogli žrtvama poplava, što znači da mi odgajamo saosećajnu i brižna decu koja istinski žele da učine svet boljim, dajući od srca. Želju da se pomažu drugima nisu pokazali samo za učenici; bilo je dirljivo videti čitavu ISB zajednicu kako pruža ruku lokalnoj zajednici! Kao nastavnik ove škole, znam da je Međunarodna škola u Beogradu istinski brižna zajednicu koja je u svakom trenutku spremna da preduzme mere i pruži pomoć, naročito kako bi ublažila patnju onih kojima je pomoć najpotrebnija! International School of Belgrade
BelGuest Summer | Leto 2014
89
B R I T I S H
I N T E R N A T I O N A L
S C H O O L
KIDS' MOVIES ON BIG SCREEN The youngest students of the British International School, members of the Club of Animation, attended, in mid-June, a big premiere in the cinema hall of the Museum of the Yugoslav Film Archive. Seventeen works were presented created in classes led by Darko Lungulov, a famous Serbian film director and a man with vast experience of an educator in the field of the media and film.
A
s in every premiere, after the movie was shown, the authors came out on stage and took a bow to the audience. It was really a beautiful sight, as the filmmakers were little children, ages 5 to 10. A DVD recording was also released, and the proceeds from the sale of tickets and DVDs was paid to the account designated for the casualties of floods. We talked with Darko Lungulov, animation teacher and organiser of this event, about the club and how it works. “The Animation Club exists for two years now. Last year, at the end of each semester, we also had premieres. I insist on it. I think that it is important for children to realise they can work, even at an age of five or six, and it’s important that they see their work on the big screen, together with their parents and guests. That’s how they get insight into the value of their work.” Asked what working with children means, he says: “First I teach them about animation in general, how to animate things, characters, drawings... At the beginning, those are simple things, such as a
pen that moves, and then, little by little, we get to more complex animations. We use clay figures, so the stories and characters become more intriguing. Animation requires patience. To get one second of a film, you need to draw 24 frames, which is a lot of work. It takes patience and care, and I teach children how to be very patient and careful. We work together once a week for one hour. This year I had four groups of children of different ages. It often happens that they get carried away so I have to tell them the class is over.” At the screening, we saw this year’s omnibus works of the Club. Asked how they were created, how original they are and how much the children are affected by global trends, Darko Lungulov answers: “We created the cardboard sets after the children’s ideas and drafts: caves, castles, deserts... Based on the sets, the children created the stories. I encourage them to create their own stories, not to copy. They are greatly influenced by the Lego Movie and the game called Minecraft in particular, which is a worldwide phenomenon. Every third
movie that the boys did was somehow based on Minecraft. The girls somehow follow their own stories more. Besides the development of creativity, I think it is very important that they gain media literacy, that is not taught in schools so much, and it is important so that they are less manipulated by the media. The work in the Club is not included in the final grades in school, but nevertheless helps the children become ‘well-rounded’ in that way. Universities abroad attach great importance to these extra-curricular activities and value the experiences that the children acquired in that way.” The space of the new building of the Museum of Yugoslav Film Archive made a more simulative atmosphere at the event, which was the very idea of our interviewee: “I wanted to show both parents and children that there is an amazing institution in Belgrade, so important at the world’s level that it is the second or third in the world. Dragan Marinković, Marketing Director and PR Manager, of the Cinematheque organised for us a sightseeing tour of the permanent exhibition which includes rarities such as Charlie Chaplin’s cane, one of the six oldest Lumière’s cameras, The Global Panorama, a huge collection of cameras and projectors. I am glad that we had our premiere here,” Darko Lungulov concludes with pleasure. BelGuest Photo: Petar Popović
90
Summer | Leto 2014 BelGuest
B R I T I S H
I N T E R N A T I O N A L
S C H O O L
DEČJI FILMOVI NA VELIKOM P LATNU Najmlađi učenici Britanske internacionalne škole, članovi Kluba animacije, imali su sredinom juna pravu, veliku premijeru u bioskopskoj dvorani Muzeja Jugoslovenske kinoteke. Prikazano je sedamnaest radova koji su nastali na časovima koje vodi Darko Lungulov, poznati srpski filmski reditelj i čovek s dugogodišnjim iskustvom pedagoga u oblasti medija i filma.
K
ao i na svakoj premijeri, posle projekcije na binu su izašli autori i poklonili se publici. Bio je to lep prizor, jer su filmski stvaraoci mala deca, uzrasta od 5 do 10 godina. Objavljen je DVD zapis, a celokupan prihod od prodaje ulaznica i DVD-ova uplaćen je na račun za postradale od poplava. O radu Kluba, razgovarali smo s Darkom Lungulovim, učiteljem animacije i organizatorom ovog sadržajnog događaja. „Klub animacije postoji već dve godine. Prošla godine smo, takođe, na kraju svakog polugođa imali premijere. Ja insistiram na tome. Bitno mi je da deca spoznaju da to mogu da rade, čak i sa pet-šest godina, i bitno mi je da svoj rad vide na velikom platnu, zajedno s roditeljima i gostima. Tako stiču uvid u vrednost svog rada.” Na pitanje kako konkretno izgleda rad s decom, naš sagovornik kaže: „Najpre ih učim o animaciji uopšte, na koji način se oživljavaju stvari, likovi, crteži... Prvo su to jednostavne stvari, na primer olovka koja se pomera, a posle, malo po malo, ulazimo u komplikovanije animacije. Koristimo figure od gline, pa priče i likovi postaju sve intrigrantniji. Animacija traži strpljenje. Za jedan sekund filma treba islikati 24 slike, a to je ogroman rad. Treba biti i strpljiv i pažljiv i ja decu učim kako da budu jako strpljiva i pažljiva. Radimo
jednom nedeljno po jedan sat. Ove godine sam imao četiri grupe dece različitog uzrasta. Često se desi da se toliko zanesu da moram da ih prekidam na kraju časa.” Na projekciji smo videli omnibus ovogodišnjih radova Kluba. Na pitanje kako su stvarani, koliko su originalni i koliko na decu utiču svetski trendovi, Darko Lungulov odgovara: „Scenografije - kulise od kartona - pravili smo po dečjim idejama i nactrima: pećine zamovke, pustinje... Oni su prema tome kreirala pričice. Ohrabrujem ih da prave svoje priče, da ne kopiraju. Ogroman je uticaj Lego Movie-a, a naročito igrice koja se zove Minecraft, koja je svetski fenomen. Svaki treći film koji su radili dečaci ima osnovu u Minecraft-u. Devojčice nekako više slede svoje priče. Osim razvoja kreativnosti, mislim da je jako važno što stiču medijsku pismenost, koje se ne uči toliko u školama, a to je važno upavo zato da bi što manje bili medijski manipulisani. Rad u Klubu ne ulazi u školski uspeh, ali deca tako postaju dobro zaokružena. Univerziteti u inostranstvu dosta važnosti poklanjaju baš ovakvim vannastavnim aktivnostima i jako vrednuju iskustva koja su deca sekla kroz njih.” Prostor novog zdanja Muzeja Jugoslovenske kinoteke podigao je atmosferu čitavag događaja, što je i bila bila ideja našeg sagovornika:
„Hteo sam da pokažem i roditeljima i deci da postoji jedna izvanredna ustanova u Beogradu, ustanova na svetskom nivou, čak druga ili treća na svetu. Dragan Marinković, direktor marketing i pr-a Kinoteke organizovao nam je turu razgledanja stalne izložbene postavku u kojoj se nalaze rariteti poput Čarli Čaplinovog štapa, jedna od šest najstarijih Limjerovih kamera, Carska panorama, ogromna zbirka kamera i projektora. Drago mi je što smo upravo ovde imali premijeru”, sa zadovoljstvom zaključuje Darko Lungulov. BelGuest Photo: Petar Popović
BelGuest Summer | Leto 2014
91
I nternational
N ursery
S chool
B elgrade
FROM KINDERGARTEN TO A NEW PRIMARY SCHOOL
The end of the school year at the International Nursery School in Belgrade was marked by a series of events: sports day for children and their parents, ecological theatre play, and the final celebration. The summer fun camp as well as continuation of the Eco School project were announced, and the biggest news in the work of this renowned institution is the opening of a primary school, which will begin operating in late August in the same building.
W
e talked about the previous school year, the focal topics and plans for the future with Mirjana Vidojević, director of the International Nursery School in Belgrade (INSB). “We’re bringing another successful school year to an end, with big plans for the next one. At the end of May, we organised a traditional sports day and it was an opportunity to get together and actively socialise: the parents together with their children competed in various sports and enjoyed equally just as their children did. At the end of the sports day, young actors from the Maximus art studio performed the play Healed Fox for us. So we mixed sports with one of our key topics – ecology. The INSB became a real eco-friendly school! We believe that expanding awareness of the need to preserve our planet should start from an early age. Throughout the whole year our children sorted the waste, which they then took for recycling. In cooperation with the Embassy of Sustainable Development and the company Tetra Pak we organised a workshop about recycling and the ways in which such materials can be used in fine arts. Next year we’ll continue with the same project, but the theme will be water savings,” she told us.
92
Summer | Leto 2014 BelGuest
GENTLE TRANSIT IN SCHOOLING & GROWING-UP According to Mirjana Vidojević, the reasons for opening of the International primary school were the following: “Our managing board consisting of parents and staff representatives decided to respond to the demands of parents who wanted their children to continue their education in the same environment and atmosphere. To maintain the quality and high standards, we decided that our elementary school should be headed by a man with many years of experience, Mr. Peter Dowling. He indeed has an impressive international resume. He holds a diploma of teaching from Melbourne, and he started his career as a teacher in Northern Australia. He then found his way in London, and in the Middle East, Europe and Africa. Having such vast experience, he is engaged on the British curriculum. Mr. Dowling is the man for us and we are happy to have a man with such biography and such two-decade experience,” Mirjana Vidojević says. In his programme text, Mr. Peter Dowling wrote: “It is my belief that our best teacher is ‘experience’, and mine has led me to Belgrade, where I am hopeful and excited about my new role as Head of Primary. I hope to pass on not just the skills and knowledge
from the subjects we deliver, but also the attitude that many opportunities await us if we only have the motivation and nerve to pursue them.” INFO: International Nursery School Belgrade Temišvarska 2 (Senjak) http: www.insb.edu.rs e-mail: insb@eunet.rss BelGuest
I nternational
N ursery
S chool
B elgrade
OD OBDANIŠTA DO NOVE OSNOVNE ŠKOLE U Međunarodnom obdaništu Beograda kraj školske godine obeležen je nizom događaja: sportskim danom za decu i roditelje, ekološkom pozorišnom predstavom, završnom priredbom. Najavljen je letnji kamp i nastavak projekta Eko škole, a najveća novost u radu ove ugledne institucije je otvaranje osnovne škole koja u istom prostoru počinje s radom već krajem avgusta.
O
protekloj školskoj godini, nosećim temama i planovima za budućnost razgovarali smo s Mirjanom Videjović, direktorkom INSB-a. „Završavamo još jednu uspešnu školsku godinu sa velikim planovima za sledeću. Krajem maja organizovali smo tradicionalan sportski dan i to je bila još jedna od prilika za aktivno druženje: roditelji su se zajedno sa decom takmičili u najrazličitijim sportovima i uživali isto kao i njihova deca. Na kraju sportskog druženja u posetu su nam došli mladi glumci iz studija Maximus art i izveli predstavu sa ekološkom temom „Ozdravila lisica”. Tako smo, sa sportskim druženjem, povezali jednu od naših ključnih tema, a to je ekologija. INSB je postala prava Eko škola! Uvereni smo da sa širenjem svesti o potrebi očuvanja naše planete treba početi od malih nogu, pa su tako naši đaci tokom čitave godine sortirali otpad, koji smo potom noslili na reciklažu. U saradnji sa Ambasadorima održivog razvoja i firmom Tetra Pak organizovli smo radionice o reciklaži i načinima na koji se takvi materijali mogu koristiti u likovnom stvaralastvu. Sledeće
godine nastavljamo sa istim projektom, ali će tema biti ušteda vode”, kaže naša sagovornica. NEŽNI PRELAZ U ŠKOLOVANJU I ODRASTANJU O razlozima za otvaranje Internacionalne osnovne škole, Mirajana Vidojević kaže: „Naš upravni odbor koji čine roditelji i predstavnici zaposlenih doneo je odluku da odgovori zahtevima roditelja koji su izrazili želju da njihova deca nastave školovanje u istom ambijentu i atmosferi. Kako bismo održali kvalitet i visoke standarde, odabrali smo da na čelu naše osnovna škola bude čovek sa dugogodišnjim iskustvom, a to je gospodin Peter Dowling. On zaista ima impresivnu internacionalnu biografiju. S diplomom poznatog Učiteljskog fakulteta u Melburnu, započeo je karijeru profesora u Severnoj Australiji. Put ga je potom odveo u Lodon, pa na Bliski istok, Evropu i Afriku. Sa ogromnim iskustvom u radu na Britanskom nastavnom planu i programu profesor Dowling je pravi čovek za nas i srećni smo što ćemo na čelu škole imati čoveka sa ovakvom biografijom i iskustvom dugim dve decenije”, kaže za kraj razgovora Mirjana Vidojević.
U svom programskom tekstu gospodin Peter Dowling je, između ostalog, napisao: „Verujem da je ‚iskustvo’ naš najbojli učitelj, a mene je moje iskustvo dovelo u Beograd. Ispunjen sam nadom i veoma sam uzbuđen što ću biti direktor Osnovne škole. Verujem da ću uspeti da prenesem ne samo znanja i veštine o predmetima kojima podučavamo decu, već stav da nas u životu očekuju mnoge prilike, samo ukoliko imamo motivaciju i snagu da ih sledimo.” BelGuest
BUSSINESS CLUB - NOVI SAD AUTUMN FAIR’S MANY EVENTS
FROM HUNTING EQUIPMENT TO WEDDING GOWNS
Nature lovers know that autumn is the best time to go hunting and fishing, and the right place to see what the world trends in these sports are is the Novi Sad Fair. The LORISA international fairs take place from 1 to 5 October, when visitors will be able to visit the 47th international fair of hunting, fishing, sports and motorsports and the 4th international forestry and horticulture fair, while from 3 to 5 October there will be the 5th international horse breeding show as a true treat at the fairgrounds.
T
he LORISA international fairs show the potentials of fishing and hunting tourism, products for hunting and hunters, i.e., fishing and fishermen, professional and recreational athletes. In addition, events dedicated to forestry and horticulture are organised. Thanks to the new concept of the event, visitors of the Fair will see what’s new in the automotive industry and have a thematic connection to the recreational segment of the trade shows. The traditional segment of LORISA is the Festival of Sport “Gym Fest”, which every year promotes sports and recreation and presents 1,000 young athletes future champions. Visitors of the autumn fairs know that LORISA offers a rich programme, so again this year during the six days ten programmes will be held. They are: hunting day, fishing day, forestry day, exhibition of hunting trophies, exhibition of fishing equipment, stock exchange of flowers, exhibition of small animals, one-day stock market of small animals, competition in cooking and traditional competition of journalists in coking fish stew – Press kotlić (Press stew pot). The variety and quality offer attracts visitors coming not only from our country but from all over the region. Visitors at LORISA come from Austria, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Bulgaria, Montenegro, Croatia,
94
Summer | Leto 2014 BelGuest
Hungary, Macedonia, Republika Srpska and Slovenia. The segment dedicated to cars will give a chance to visitors to see at one place the offer of the car industry in Serbia. The interest of car lovers is the good ground for the promotion of new models and services, and it greatly contributes to the boosting of sales of new cars on the local market. The international horse breeding show at which exhibitors from the region exhibit has gained reputation already. Family Day During the LORISA fair, a family day will be organised on Saturday, 4 October. On that day, families with children under the age of 16 will be able to visit the fair with only one purchased ticket. Superb heads are presented by horse breeders, horse farms, equestrian clubs and associations. During the fair, there are also three international sports competitions: in dressage-style and show jumping, harness racing, with a prize fund of RSD 1.5 million. An important segment is also the international photography competition, organised by the Novi Sad Fair and Photo, Movie and Video
Association of Vojvodina. The theme of the competition is horse, and the rules and applications are published at the websites www.sajam.net and www.fkvsv.com. The programme of the international horse breeding show will also include a show of horses, harnesses, carriages and carts, children’s corner, therapeutic riding, a demonstrative exercise of police horses, horse parade riding, pony rides for children, presentation of tourist events in Serbia with programmes with horses as well as the always attractive horse auction. Construction, equipment, investment, progress and development are features of the five events that visitors will be able to see during the five days from 16 to 20 October. The already traditional Investment Fair and Energy Days are supplemented by the ecology and environment fair, information technology fair as well as construction and furniture fairs. The year ends with an exhibition of jewellery and watches “Sjaj” (Shine) and a fair of wedding gowns, to be held from 7 to 10 November. Apart from the fact that jewellery lovers will enjoy, this all-in-one event will offer all products and services necessary for the organisation of a wedding ceremony. BelGuest
P O S LO V N I K LU B - B R O J N E J E S E N J E P R I R E D B E N A N O V O S A D S K O M S A J M U
OD LOVAČKE OPREME DO VENČANICA
Zaljubljenici u prirodu znaju da je jesen pravo vreme za lov i robolov, a pravo mesto da se vide svetski noviteti u ovim sportovima je Novosadski sajam. Međunarodni sajmovi „Lorisa” održavaju se od 1. do 5. oktobra, te će tada posetioci moći da posete 47. međunarodni sajam lova, ribolova, sporta i automobilizma, 4. međunarodni sajam šumarstva i 21. sajam hortikulture, a od 3. do 5. oktobra je prava sajamska poslastica, 5. međunarodni sajam konjarstva i sersana.
N
a Međunarodnim sajmovima „Lorisa” predstavljaju se potencijali ribolovnog i lovnog turizma, proizvodi namenjeni lovu i lovcima, odnosno ribolovu i ribolovcima, sportistima i rekreativcima. Uz to, priređuju se i priredbe posvećene šumarstvu i hortikulturi. Nova koncepcija manifestacije će posetiocima Sajma prikazati i novine u automobilskoj industriji, kao tematski spoj s rekreativnim segmentom sajmova. Tradicionalni segment „Lorise” je Festival sporta „Gym fest“, koji promoviše sportove i rekreaciju i svake godine predstavi 1.000 mladih sportista, budućih šampiona. Posetioci jesenjih sajmova znaju da „Lorisa” ima bogat program, pa će tako i ove godine tokom šest sajamskih dana biti održano deset programa. Planirani su: Dan lovstva, Dan ribolova, Dan šumarstva, Izložba lovačkih trofeja, Izložba noviteta ribolovačkog pribora, Berza cveća, Izložba sitnih životinja, jednodnevna berza sitnih životinja, takmičenje u kuvanju lovačkog paprikaša i tradicionalni Press kotlić - takmičenje novinara u kuvanju riblje čorbe. Bogata i kvalitetna ponuda privlači publiku koja dolazi ne samo iz naše zemlje nego i iz celog regiona. Posetioci „Lorise” su iz Austrije, Bosne i Hercegovine,
Bugarske, Crne Gore, Hrvatske, Mađarske, Makedonije, Republike Srpske i Slovenije. Segment posvećen automobilima, posetiocima će pružiti priliku da se na jednom mestu upoznaju s ponudom automobilske industrije u Srbiji. Interesovanje ljubitelja četvorotočkaša omogućava idealne uslove za promociju novih modela i usluga, a u velikoj meri doprinosi i poboljašnju prodaje novih automobila na našem tržištu. Međunarodni sajam konjarstva i sersana je već afirmisana manifestacija na kojoj nastupaju izlagači iz regiona. Vrhunska grla predstavljaju odgajivači konja, ergele, konjički klubovi i udruženja. Tokom Sajma se održavaju tri međunarodna sportska takmičenja i to u preponskom i dresurnom jahanju, te u vožnji zaprega, sa nagradnim fondom od milion i po dinara. Bitan segment je i Međunarodni foto-konkurs, koji organizuju Novosadski sajam i Porodični dan Tokom sajmova „Lorisa”, u subotu, 4. oktobra biće priređen Porodični dan. Tog dana će porodice sa decom do 16 godina moći da poseti sajam s jednom kupljenom ulaznicom.
Foto-kino i video savez Vojvodine. Tema konkursa je konj, a propozicije i prijava na konkurs objavljeni su na www.sajam.net i www.fkvsv.com. Na programu Sajma konjarstva i sersana biće i revija konja, fijakera, kočija i zaprega, dečji kutak, terapijsko jahanje, pokazna vežba policijskih konja, konjičko strojevo jahanje, jahanje ponija za decu, predstavljanje turističkih manifestacija u Srbiji koje sadrže programe s konjima i uvek atraktivna aukcija konja po rasama. Izgradnja, opremanje, ulaganje, napredak i usavršavanje, karakterišu pet manifestacija koje će posetioci videti tokom pet dana, od 16. do 20. oktobra. Sad već tradicionalnom Sajmu investicija i Danima energetike, pridružuju se ekologija i zaštita životne sredine i informacione tehnologije, kao i sajmovi građevinarstva i nameštaja. Godina se završava Izložbom zlatarstva i časovničarstva „Sjaj” i Sajmom venčanja, koji se održavaju od 7. do 10. novembra. Pored toga što će u ponudi uživati ljubitelji nakita, objedinjene manifestacije će doneti ponudu svih proizvoda i usluga neophodnih za organizaciju ceremonije venčanja. BelGuest
BelGuest Summer | Leto 2014
95
SPECIJALNA LETNJA PONUDA „DUNAV OSIGURANJA“
PRIJATELJ NA ODMORU I PUTOVANJU U sezoni odmora„Dunav osiguranje" već tradicionalno u ponudi ima polise paketa putnog osiguranja i putničkog zdravstvenog osiguranja. Ove godine, lansiran je poseban letnji paket koji obuhvata čitav niz pogodnosti koje su oblikovane tako da vam u najvećoj mogućoj meri obezbeđuju što bezbrižnije i ekonomičnije putovanje.
O
novinama i sadržajima nove letnje ponude razgovarali smo sa Sanjom Popov Karan, direktorkom Direkcije za osiguranje individualnih korisnika, samostalnih preduzetnika, malih, srednjih i velikih preduzeća u Kompaniji „Dunav osiguranje” a.d.o. „Kompanija Dunav je lider na tržištu osiguranja u našoj zemlji. Stalno pratimo zahteve klijenata - kako velikih i srednjih, tako i malih preduzeća, a naročito naših građana - i reagujemo na izmenjene uslove u svim oblastima osiguranja. Kada govorimo o paketu putnog osiguranja i putničkom zdravstvenom osiguranju, uspeli smo da značajno povećavamo učešće u ovom posebnom segmentu usluga. Sa 15% udela na tržištu osiguranja, koliko smo imali u 2011. godine, porasli smo na 18% ”, kaže naša sagovornica.
„Jedna od alatki uz pomoć koje smo uspeli da povećamo broj osiguranih putnika jesu naši višegodišnji nastupi na Međunarodnim sajmovima turizma, pre svega u Beogradu i Novom Sadu, uz brojne akcije, kako na ovim manifestacijama tako i tokom godine, kojima osvežavamo našu ponudu. Poslovna filozofija kompanije utemeljena je na zaokruživanju tri osnovne vrednosti, a to su život, zdravlje i imovina. Takođe, sa ovom, ali i s našim drugim akcijama i kampanjama, nastojimo da podignemo svest stanovništva o potrebi osiguranja svega što je u životu vredno.” Na pitanje koje su to specifične pogodnosti tekuće kampanje, Sanja Popov Karan kaže: „Većina osiguravajućih kuća na našem tržištu nudi manje-više slične proizvode osnovnog putničkog
PRIMER Sveobuhvatnost letnje akcije Kompanije Dunav i njene finansijske atraktivnosti najbolje i najlakše se može sagledati kroz konkretan primer. Ukoliko kao primer uzmemo četvoročlanu porodicu (roditelji sa maloletnom decom) koja svojim automobilom putuje u Grčku na 10 dana, premije sa obračunatim porezom bi bile: 1. Putničko zdravstveno osiguranje, kojim se pruža finansijska zaštita u visini od 35.000 EUR, uz primenjen akcijski popust od 10% - premija bi iznosila 20,79 EUR 2. Zelena karta uz akcijski popust - 1.800 rsd 3. Pomoć na putu - za naše osiguranike (koji imaju važeću polisu AO ili AK kod naše Kompanije) uz akcijski popust od 15% godišnja premija iznosi za izabrani nivo pokrića: npr. bonus paket za vozila starosti do 3 god iznosi 8,93 EUR
96
Summer | Leto 2014 BelGuest
zdravstvenog osiguranja. Ono što nas izdavaja jeste novi Paket putnog osiguranja, koji smo osmislili imajući u vidu i zajedničke imenitelje, ali i različite potrebe putnika i turista. Ovim paketom, kao osnovno osiguravajuće pokriće, pored putničkog zdravstvenog osiguranja sа uklјučеnоm putnоm, prаvnоm аsistеnciјоm i uslugаmа pоzајmicе nоvčаnih srеdstаvа, obuhvaćeni su i оsigurаnjе оd pоslеdicа nеsrеćnоg slučаја (nеzgоdе) i оsigurаnjе оd grаđаnskе оdgоvоrnоsti. Ono što je specifično, kao dopunski rizik u putnom paketu, jeste mogućnost osiguranja od otkazivanja putovanja. Na primer, ako ste uplatili letovanje preko agencije, a dogodi se da morate da otkažete putovanje, polisa vas štiti od gubitka uplaćenog novca. Takođe, kao dopunski rizik može se ugovoriti i osigu-
4. Osiguranje stana – za stan građevinske vrednosti 2.500.000 rsd uz ugovaranje dopunskog rizika izliva vode iz instalacija na iznos od 100.000 rsd (Svakako, može se osigurati i rizik poplave i drugi rizici) - godišnja premija osiguranja uz popust od 15% iznosi simboličnih 1.526 rsd. *Za premije izražene u EUR - premija se obračunava u dinarskoj protivvrednosti po zvaničnom srednjem kursu NBS na dan zaključenja ugovora o osiguranju. Najkraće rečeno, kompletnu zaštitu zdravlja i imovine svoje porodice, možete tokom ove letnje akcije obezbediti za nekih 60 EUR što je niže čak npr. i od najjeftinijeg pregleda grčkog lekara, ne pominjući druge troškove kako lečenja, tako i eventualne troškove popravki automobila i stana, u slučaju nastanka neželjenih događaja, koji bi u slučaju izostanka osiguranja, naši građani morali da izdvoje iz sopstvenog budžeta.
AKCIJA OD 5. JUNA DO 15. SEPTEMBRA Detaljne informacije o svim pogodnostima zainteresovani mogu dobiti u nekoj od 600 poslovnica Kompanije, kao i besplatnim pozivom Kontakt centa Dunav osiguranja na broj 0800-386-286, ili na sajtu www.dunav.com. ranje prtljaga, čime se paket putnog osiguranja u potpunosti zaokružuje. Naročito za najatraktivnije destinacije, predviđena je čitava mreža zdravstvenih ustanova/lekara za pomoć i stručnu intervenciju u situacijama iznenadne bolesti ili povrede, u saradnji sa međunarodnom kućom Coris Assistance. Sažeto rečeno - ova polisa svakom putniku obezbeđuje vrhunsku zdravstenu uslugu, po svetskim standardima, 24 sata dnevno. ”
„Pored navednog, imajući u vidu da veliki broj naših građana putuje na letovanje sopstvenim automobilima, Kompanija Dunav je, uz paket putnog osiguranja, omogućila i kupovinu zelene karte sa popustom od 10%, tačnije po ceni od 1800 dinara. Druga pogodnost za motorizovane putnike jeste zaštita od neprijatnosti na putu, odnosno polisa pomoći na putu koju, uz polisu putničko zdravstvenog osiguranja, naši građani u okviru ove akcije dobijaju s popustom od 15%. I na kraju, kako
bismo pored zdravlja i automobila našim građanima obezbedili potpuni spokoj za vreme letovanja, u paket smo uključili i finansijsku zaštitu kuća i stanova i stvari u njima. Naime, tokom ove letnje akcije, svoje stanove i kuće i ono najvrednije u njima, naši građani mogu osigurati u Kompanij Dunav na narednih godinu dana od požara i drugih opasnosti, takođe uz popust od 15%” zaključuje naša sagovornica. BelGuest
BUSINESS CLUB – SUMMER PROMOTIONAL CAMPAIGN OF TOURIST ORGANISATION OF SERBIA (TOS)
A WELCOME SMILE W
ith the first day of summer, the Tourist Organisation of Serbia (TOS) launched a promotional campaign “Welcome to Serbia - the smile of hospitality” at the Horgoš border crossing. Serbian Deputy Prime Minister and Minister of Trade, Tourism and Telecommunications Rasim Ljajić and TOS representatives and volunteers from Subotica distributed to passengers promotional material with tourist attractions on the international corridors through Serbia. The summer promotional campaign symbolically began with the arrival of summer and will continue throughout the season. “We want to position tourism as an important economic branch in Serbia, and it involves the exploitation of tourism potentials. We want tourism to have a significant role in the economic policy of the country, with a much greater investment in infrastructure development, which is a prerequisite for the overall development of tourism”, Minister Ljajić said. Last year about two million passenger vehicles entered Serbia with 5.5 million passengers, which is 8% up year-on-year. From year to year, the number of tourists in Serbia as well as income generated through tourism are on the rise. With USD 1.52 billion generated from tourism, last year hit the record high. That’s 50 times more than in 2000, when the revenue stood at USD 20 million. “Tourism has proven to be a very resilient and flexible industry which has resisted the conditions of the global economic and financial crisis in our country,” Ljajic said adding that the tourist offer and the environment can be improved the efficiency of the customs and all other services. Promotional materials will be distributed at all points on the international corridors in Serbia.
Minister Rasim Ljajić
N
a graničnom prelazu Horgoš, s prvim letnjim danom, Turističke organizacije Srbije započela je promotivnu kampanju: „Dobrodošli u Srbiju – osmeh gostoprimstva“. Potpredsednik Vlade Republike Srbije i ministar trgovine, turizma i telekomunikacija Rasim Ljajić, predstavnici TOS-a i volonteri iz Subotice podelili su putnicima koji ulaze u našu zemlju promotivni materijal u kojem su predstavljene turističke atrakcije na međunarodnim koridorima kroz Srbiju. Letnja promotivna kampanja simbolički je počela s dolaskom leta i trajaće tokom cele sezone. „Želimo da turizam pozicioniramo kao značajnu privrednu granu u Srbiji, a to podrazumeva iskorišćavanje svih turističkih potencijala, kao i to da turizam dobije značajno mesto u ekonomskoj politici zemlje, uz mnogo veća ulaganja u razvoj infrastrukture, što je preduslov za ukupan razvoj turizma“, naglasio je ministar Ljajić. Prošle godine u Srbiju je ušlo približno dva miliona putničkih vozila sa 5,5 miliona putnika, što je za osam odsto više u odnosu na prethodnu godinu. Iz godine u godinu povećava se broj turista koji dolaze u Srbiju, kao i devizni priliv koji u zemlju ulazi kroz turizam, dok je prošla godina, sa milijardu i 52 miliona dolara prihoda bila rekordna. To je 50 puta više nego 2000. godine, kada je taj prihod iznosio 20 miliona dolara. „Turizam se pokazao kao vrlo otporna i fleksibilna privredna grana jer je odolevao iskušenjima i u uslovima globalne ekonomske i finansijske krize u našoj zemlji“, istakao je Ljajić i ukazao na to da se turistička ponuda i klima mogu poboljšati efikasnošću carinske i svih ostalih službi. Promotivni materijal će se deliti na svim punktovima na međunarodnim koridorima u Srbiji.
DOBRODOŠLICA, UZ OSMEH GOSTOPRIMSTVA 98
Summer | Leto 2014 BelGuest
B U S I N E S S C LU B – S E R B I A N CO N V E N T I O N B U R E AU
CLUB OF CONGRESS AMBASSADORS OF SERBIA
T
he International Congress and Convention Association (ICCA) has announced the results of ranking congress destinations in the world for 2013. With 66 international meetings, satisfying the strict ICCA criteria, Serbia has achieved the best result so far, ranked 42nd on the world list. In 2007, when the Congress Bureau was established within the Tourist Organisation of Serbia (TOS), Serbia was on the 72nd place. Therefore, in the period since 2007 to date, it has become the fastest growing congress destination in Europe. Our professors, doctors, scientists and experts who enjoy good reputation in international associations take a great credit for this success. The first Day of Congress Ambassadors of our country took place in early June, organised by the Congress Bureau of Serbia at the hotel Metropol Palace in Belgrade. Miloš Milovanović, head of the Serbian Convention Bureau, opened the gathering by saying, “In promoting Serbia as a congress and convention destination, cooperation with scientists and scholars is of utmost importance. With a view of finding such people in our academic, scientific and professional community, we are forming a Club of Congress Ambassadors of Serbia, which will have more and more members, who helped Serbia become the host of numerous important international meetings as of 2015.” The first ambassadors have been announced who, together with the congress industry, went all the way in preparing and obtaining candidacy for hosting major international conferences with more than a thousand participants. They are Prof. Dr. Ljiljana Medenica, chairwoman of the 11 th Symposium of the European Association of Dermatologists and Venereologists, which was held in May 2014 in Belgrade, and Prof. Dr. Jovan Vasiljević, President of the 27th Congress of the European Society of Pathologists, which will be held in September 2015 in Belgrade.
KLUB KONGRESNIH AMBASADORA SRBIJE
M
eđunarodna kongresna asocijacija ICCA objavila je rezultate rangiranja kongresnih destinacija u svetu u 2013. godini. Sa 66 međunarodnih skupova, koji ispunjavaju stroge ICCA kriterijume, Srbija je ostvarila najbolji rezultat do sada, čime je zauzela 42. mesto na svetskoj listi. U trenutku kada je, 2007. godine, osnovan Kongresni biro u sklopu TOS-a, Srbija je bila na 72. poziciji, što je u proteklom periodu čini najbrže rastućom kongresnom destinacijom u Evropi. Velika zasluga za ovaj uspeh pripada našim profesorima, doktorima, naučnicima i stručnjacima koji uživaju ugled u međunarodnim asocijacijama. Početkom juna, u organizaciji Kongresnog biroa Srbije u hotelu Metropol Palace u Beogradu održan je prvi Dan kongresnih ambasadora naše zemlje. Miloš Milovanović, šef Kongresnog biro Srbije je otvarajući skup rekao: „U promovisanju Srbije kao kongresne destinacije od najvećeg značaja je saradnja s naučnicima. U cilju prepoznavanja ovakvih ljudi u našoj akademskoj, naučnoj i stručnoj zajednici, formiramo Klub kongresnih ambasadora Srbije, u kome će u narednom periodu biti sve više članova koji su se izborili da Srbija od 2015. godine pa na dalje bude domaćin značajnih međunarodnih skupova“. Proglašeni su i prvi ambasadori koji su, zajedno sa kongresnom industrijom, prošli čitav put u pripremi i dobijanju kandidature za održavanje velikih međunarodnih skupova sa više od hiljadu učesnika. To su Prof. dr Ljiljana Medenica, predsednica 11. Simpozijuma Evropske asocijacije dermatologa i venerologa , koji je održan od maja 2014. godine u Beogradu i Prof. dr Jovan Vasiljević, predsednik 27. Kongresa Evropskog društva patologa, koji će biti održan septembra 2015. godine u Beogradu.
BelGuest Summer | Leto 2014
99
B U S I N E S S
C L U B
–
Z I R A
FRESHEN UP!
H O T E L
B E L G R A D E
The Zira Hotel Belgrade opened six years ago and is one of the youngest hotels in the Serbian capital. By its concept, Zira is a business hotel. It is situated in the old city heart, at the crossroads of major streets and boulevards of Belgrade. Hotel guests have at disposal 127 modern rooms and suites, an international restaurant with a terrace, four modernly equipped conference rooms, a fitness centre with the Finnish sauna and a four-level underground garage. In addition to numerous local and international hospitality awards, we would like to especially emphasize that Hotel Zira is a winner of prestigious “Certificate of Excellence” award for the 4th year in a row, granted by Tripadvisor, from whom we already received “Travelers Choice 2014” award. We invite you to freshen up at Hotel Zira Terrace, during those hot summer days, with fresh, healthy, non-alcoholic cocktails as well as try out our special promotions of the best cakes in town. Hotel Zira | Ruzveltova 35, 11000 Belgrade tel. +381 11 33 14 800 | fax. +381 11 33 14 801 e-mail: info@zirahotels.com
OSVEŽITE SE!
Beogradski hotel Zira otvorenje je pre šest godina i spada u red najmlađih hotela glavnog grada. Po koncepciji, Zira je biznis hotel. Smešten je u starom gradskom jerzgu, a lociran je na raskršću najznačajnijih ulica i bulevara Beograda. Gostima Hotela, na raspolaganju je 127 moderno opremljenih soba i apartmana, internacionalni restoran sa terasom, četiri savremeno opremljene konferencijske sale, fitnes centar sa finskom saunom i podzemnu garažnu na četiri nivoa Pored brojnih lokalnih i međunarodnih nagrada u oblasti hotelijerstva želeli bismo posebno da naglasimo da je Hotel Zira ove godine po četvrti put za redom dobitnik prestižne „Certificate of Excellence” nagrade koju dodeljuje Tripadvisor, sa čije strane smo ove godine dobili i nagradu „Travelers Choice 2014”. Pozivamo vas da se tokom vrelih letnjih dana osvežite na terasi Hotela Zira uz sveže, zdrave i prirodne bezalkoholne koktele kao i da probate specijalne promocije najboljih kolača u gradu.
C U L T U R E /K U L T U R A POZORIŠTA – ThEATERS ATELJE 212, Svetogorska 21, tel. 324-7342 www.atelje212.co.rs BEOGRADSKO DRAMSKO POZORIŠTE, Mileševska 64a, tel. 2835-111, 2837-000 www.bdp.rs BETON HALA TEATAR, Kraljice Natalije 3, tel.2684-588 BITEF TEATAR, Skver Mire Trailović 1, tel. 3220-608 www.bitef.rs DADOV, Desanke Maksimović 6/I, tel. 3243-643 www.dadov.rs DAH TEATAR, Marulićeva 8, tel. 2441-680 www.dahteatarcentar.com ISTER TEATAR, Karlovačka 26, Zemun, tel. 74498 07 JUGOSLOVENSKO DRAMSKO POZORIŠTE, Kralja Milana 50, tel. 3061-900, 3061-957 www.jdp.co.rs
KPGT, Radnička 3, tel. 3055-082, 3055-076 www.kpgtyu.org OPERA I TEATAR MADLENIANUM, Zemun, Glavna 32, tel. 316-2533 www.madlenianum.rs NARODNO POZORIŠTE - NATIONAL ThEATER (Opera, Balet, Drama / Opera, Ballet, Theatre Plays) Francuska 3, tel. 3281-333 www.narodnopozoriste.co.rs POZORIŠTE NA TERAZIJAMA, Trg Nikole Pašića 3, tel.330-2650 www.pozoristeterazije.com SLAVIJA TEATAR, Svetog Save 16, tel. 2436-995 TEATAR BOJAN STUPICA, Kralja Milana 50, tel. 2644-447, www.jdp.co.rs TEATAR KULT, Bulevar kralja Aleksandra 77a, tel. 2421-314 ZVEZDARA TEATAR, Milana Rakića 38, tel. 2419-664 www.zvezdara Večernja scena Radović, Aberdareva 1, tel. 3242-472 www.malopozoriste.co.rs
DEČJA POZORIŠTA – CHILDRENS’ ThEATERS BOŠKO BUHA, Trg Republike 3, tel. 2632-855 www.buha-theater.com MALO POZORIŠTE DUŠKO RADOVIĆ, Aberdareva 1, tel. 3242-472 www.malopozoriste.co.rs POZORIŠTANCE PUŽ, Radoslava Grujića 21, tel. 2438-036 POZORIŠTE LUTAKA PINOKIO, Karađorđeva 9, Zemun tel. 2691-715 www.ptpinokio.com TEATAR RODA, Požeška 83a, tel. 2545-260 Pozoriste “Pan teatar”, Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra 298, www.panteatar.rs
KULTURNI CENTRI - CULTURAL CENTERS AMERIČKI KUTAK/AMERICAN CORNER, Makedonska 22, tel. 322-7694, www.americancorners-sam.net
AUSTRIJSKI KULTURNI FORUM/ Österreichischen Kulturforums, Kneza Sime Markovića 2, tel. 3031-956, www.aussenministerium.at/belgradkf BRITANSKI SAVET/ BRITISH COUNCIL, Terazije 8, tel. 3023-800, www.britishcouncil.org/serbia CENTAR ZA KULTURNU DEKONTAMINACIJU, Birčaninova 21, tel. 3610-270, www.czkd.rs DEČIJI KULTURNI CENTAR, Takovska 8, tel. 342-2011, fax. 342-2314, www.dkcb.rs/ DOM KULTURE STUDENTSKI GRAD, Bulevar AVNOJ-a 179, tel. 2691-442, www.dksg.rs DOM OMLADINE BEOGRADA, Makedonska 22, tel. 3225-453, www.domomladine.org DOM VOJSKE SRBIJE, Braće Jugovića 19 tel. 324-12-58, www.odbrana.mod.gov.rs FRANCUSKI INSTITUT U SRBIJI/ Institut français de Serbie , Zmaj Jovina 11, tel. 3023-654,
www.institutfrancais.rs INSTITUT GETE /GOEThE INSTITUT, Knez Mihailova 50, tel. 303-18-10, www.goethe.de/belgrad
GRAD - Evropski centar za kulturu i debatu, Braće Krsmanović 4, tel. 3282- 370, www.gradbeograd.eu
GUARNERIUS – centar lepih umetnosti, Džordža Vašingtona 12, tel. 3346-807, www.guarnerius.rs
HELENSKI FOND ZA KULTURU/HELLENIC FOUNDATION FOR CULTURE, Kneza Miloša 14, tel.3625-206, www.hfc-belgrade.com
INSTITUT SERVANTES/ Instituto Cervantes de Belgrado, Čika Ljubina 19, tel. 3034-182, www.belgrado.cervantes.es
INSTITUT KONFUČIJE, Studentski trg 3, tel. 3284-595, www.konfucije.fil.bg.ac.rs ITALIJANSKI INSTITUT ZA KULTURU/ Istituto Italiano di Cultura di Belgrado, Kneza Miloša 56, tel. 3629-435, www.iicbelgrado.esteri.it
KANADSKI KULTURNI CENTAR/ CANADIAN CULTURAL CENTER, Kneza Miloša 75, tel. 306-3000 KULTURNI CENTAR BEOGRADA, Knez Mihailova 6/1, tel. 2621-469/ www.kcb.org.rs KULTURNI CENTAR IRANA, Neznanog junaka 32, tel. 3672 564 , www.iran.rs RUSKI DOM/ Русский дом, Kraljice Natalije 33, tel. 2642-178, www.ruskidom.rs REX, Jevrejska 16, tel. 3284-534, www.rex.b92.net STUDENTSKI KULTURNI CENTAR, Kralja Milana 48, tel. 360-2014, www.skc.org.rs ZADUŽBINA ILIJE M. KOLARACA, Studentski trg 5, tel. 2630-550, www.kolarac.rs
KONCERTNE DVORANE - CONCERT HALLS ATRIJUM NARODNOG MUZEJA, Trg republike 1a, tel. 330-6000, BEOGRADSKA FILHARMONIJA, Studentski trg 11, tel. 328-2977, www.bgf.co.rs DOM VOJSKE SRBIJE, Braće Jugovića 19, tel. 324-0242, www.odbrana.mod.gov.rs DVORANA DOMA SINDIKATA, Trg Nikole Pašića 5, tel. 323-4849, www.domsindikata.com KOMBANK ARENA, Bulevar Arsenija Čarnojevića 58, tel. 0900 110011, www.kombankarena.rs SAVA CENTAR, Milentija Popovića 9, tel. 220-6000 , www.savacentar.net ZADUŽBINA ILIJE M. KOLARCA, Studentski trg 5, tel. 262-6591, www.kolarac.co.rs
MUZEJI – MUSEUMS KULTURNO-ISTORIJSKI MUZEJI - CULTURAL & HISTORICAL MUSEUMS ETNOGRAFSKI MUZEJ / ETNOGRAPHIC MUSEUM, Studentski trg 13, tel. 3281-888, www.etnografskimuzej.rs
KONAK KNJEGINJE LJUBICE / The Residence of Princess Ljubica, Kneza Sime Markovića 8, tel.2638-264, www.mgb.org.rs
KONAK KNEZA MILOŠA / ThE Residence OF PRINCE MILOS, Rakovički put 2, tel.2660-422, www.imus.org.rs
KUĆA ĐURE JAKŠIĆA / DJURA JAKSIC HOUSE, Skadarska 34, tel. 3230-302 MANAKOVA KUĆA / MANAK’S HOUSE, Gavrila Principa 5, tel. 303- 6114 KULA NEBOJŠA / Nebojsa Tower, Bulevar vojvode Bojovića 11, tel. 26 20 685 , www.kulanebojsa.rs
MUZEJ SRPSKE PRAVOSLAVNE CRKVE / SERBIAN ORTODOX CHURCH MUSEUM, Kralja Petra 5, tel. 328- 2527 NARODNI MUZEJ / NATIONAL MUSEUM, Trg Republike 1a, tel 3306-048, www.narodnimuzej.rs
PEDAGOŠKI MUZEJ / MUSEUM OF PEDAGOGY, Uzun Mirkova 14, tel.2627-538, www.pedagoskimuzej.org.rs
Vinča Arheološko nalazište / Archaeological Site Vinča, Belo brdo 17, Vinča, tel. 060/500-51-87, www.mgb.org.rs VUKOV I DOSITEJEV MUZEJ / VUK AND DOSITEJ MUSEUM, Gospodar Jevremova 21, tel. 2625-161
ISTORIJSKI MUZEJI - HISTORICAL MUSEUMS ISTORIJSKI MUZEJ SRBIJE / SERBIAN HISTORICAL MUSEUM, Đure Jakšića 9, tel. 328-7241, www.imus.org.rs
JEVREJSKI ISTORIJSKI MUZEJ / JEWISH HISTORICAL MUSEUM, Kralja Petra 71, tel. 2622-634, www.jimbeograd.org
MUZEJ ISTORIJE JUGOSLAVIJE /YUGOSLAV HISTORICAL MUSEUM, Botićeva 6, tel. 3671-485, www.mij.rs
MUZEJ BANJIČKOG LOGORA / The Museum of the Banjica Concentration Camp, Pavla Jurišića Šturma 33, tel. 3674-877, www.mgb.org.rs VOJNI MUZEJ / MILITARY MUSEUM, Kalemegdan bb, tel. 3343-441, www.muzej.mod.gov.rs IZLOŽBENA POSTAVKA NARODNE BANKE SRBIJE / NATIONAL BANK OF SERBIA NUMISMATIC EXIBITION, Kralja Petra 12, tel.3027-100, www.nbs.rs MEMORIJALNI MUZEJI - MEMORIAL MUSEUMS MEMORIJALNI MUZEJ JOVANA CVIJIĆA / The Memorial Museum of Jovan Cvijić, Jelene Ćetković 5, tel. 3223-126, www.mgb.org.rs MUZEJ NIKOLE TESLE / NIKOLA TESLA MUSEUM, Krunska 51, tel. 2433-886, www.tesla-museum.org
BelGuest Summer | Leto 2014
101
CULTURE/KULTURA SPOMEN muzej Ive Andrića / The Memorial Museum of Ivo Andrić, Andrićev venac 8, tel. 323-8397, www.mgb.org.rs Muzej Paje Jovanovića / The Museum of Paja Jovanović, Kralja Milana 21/IV, tel. 3340-176, www.mgb.org.rs Zbirka ikona Sekulić / The Collection of Icons Sekulić, Uzun Mirkova 5, tel 3282-504, www.mgb.org.rs ZAVIČAJNI MUZEJI - CITY MUSEUMS MUZEJ GRADA BEOGRADA / The Belgrade City Museum, Zmaj Jovina 1, tel. 2630-825, www.mgb.org.rs TEHNIČKI MUZEJI - TEHNICAL MUSEUMS MUZEJ AUTOMOBILA /ThE automobile MUSEUM, Majke Jevrosime 30, tel. 3034-625, www.automuseumbgd.com
MUZEJ JUGOSLOVENSKOG VAZDUHOPLOVSTVA /MUSEUM OF YUGOSLAV AERONAUTICS, Aerodrom Nikola Tesla,tel. 2670-992, www.muzejvazduhoplovstva.org. MUZEJ NAUKE I TEHNIKE / MUSEUM OF SCIENCE AND TECHNOLOGY, Skender Begova 51, tel. 303- 7850, www.muzejnt.rs
PTT MUZEJ / POST MUSEUM, Majke Jevrosime 13, tel. 3064-170, www.pttmuzej.rs ŽELEZNIČKI MUZEJ / RAILWAY MUSEUM, Nemanjina 6, tel. 361-0334, www.zeleznicesrbije.com
PRIRODNJAČKI MUZEJI - NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUMS PRIRODNJAČKI MUZEJ - NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM, Njegoševa 51, tel. 344-2147, www.nhmbeo.rs
GALERIJA PRIRODNJAČKOG MUZEJA / GALLERY OF ThE NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM, Mali Kalemegdan 5, tel. 3284-317, www.nhmbeo.rs MUZEJ SRPSKE MEDICINE / MUSEUM OF SERBIAN MEDICINE, Džordža Vašingtona 19, tel. 3245-149, www.sld.org.rs/sr/muzej
UMETNIČKI MUZEJI - ART MUSEUMS MUZEJ AFRIČKE UMETNOSTI / MUSEUM OF AFRICAN ART, Andre Nikolića 14, tel. 2651-654, museumofafricanart.org
MUZEJ POZORIŠNE UMETNOSTI /ThEATER MUSEUM, Gospodar Jevremova 19, tel. 2628-920, www.mpus.org.rs
MUZEJ SAVREMENE UMETNOSTI - LEGAT ČOLAKOVIČ / MUSEUM OF TEMPORARY ART- COLAKOVIC LEGACY, Drajzerov prolaz 2, tel. 3676-093, www.msub.org.rs
MUZEJ PRIMENJENE UMETNOSTI / Museum of Applied Art, Vuka Karadžića 18, tel. 2626-494, www.mpu.org.rs
JUGOSLOVENSKA KINOTEKA - YUGOSLAV FILM ARCHIVE, Kosovska 11, tel. 3248-250 www.kinoteka.org.rs
MUZEJ ZEPTER – ZEPTER MUSEUM, Knez Mihailova 42, tel. 011/328-3339, www.zeptermuseum.rs
IZLOŽBENE GALERIJE - EXHIBITION GALLERIES GALERIJA SRPSKE AKADEMIJE NAUKA I UMETNOSTI - GALLERY OF SERBIAN ACADEMY OF ARTS & SCIENCES,Knez Mihailova 35, www.sanu.ac.rs GALERIJA BEOGRAD, Kosančićev venac 19 , www.galerijabeograd.org GALERIJA DOMA OMLADINE, Makedonska 22, www.domomladine.org GALERIJA FAKULTETA LIKOVNIH UMETNOSTI, Pariska 16, www.flu.bg.ac.rs GALERIJA FRESAKA / FRESCO GALLERY, Cara Uroša 20, www.narodnimuzej.rs GALERIJA GRAFIČKOG KOLEKTIVA, Obilićev venac 27, www. grafickikolektiv.org GALERIJA HAOS, Dositejeva 3, www.galleryhaos.com GALERIJA KULTURNOG CENTRA BEOGRADA, Knez Mihailova 6, www.kcb.org.rs/ GALERIJA-LEGAT PETRA DOBROVIĆA, Kralja Petra 36/IV, www.msub.org.rs GALERIJA NAUKE I TEHNIKE SANU / SANU GALLERY OF SCIENCE AND TECHNOLOGY, Đure Jakšića 2, www.sanu.ac.rs
102
Summer | Leto 2014 BelGuest
GALERIJA NEW MOMENT, Hilandarska 14, www.newmoment.com/beograd GALERIJA PROGRES, Knez Mihailova 22, www.progres.rs GALERIJA STARA KAPETANIJA, Zemun, Kej oslobođenja 8 GALERIJA SKC, Kralja Milana 48, www.skc.org.rs GALERIJA SULUJ, Terazije 26/II, www.galerijasuluj.org.rs GALERIJA 73, Požeška 83 a, www.galerija73.com GALERIJA ULUS, Knez Mihailova 37, www.ulus.org.rs GALERIJA DOMA VOJSKE SRBIJE, Braće Jugovića 19, www.odbrana.mod.gov.rs GALERIJA ZADUŽBINE ILIJE M. KOLARCA, Studentski Trg 5, www.kolarac.co.rs JUGOSLOVENSKA GALERIJA UMETNIČKIH DELA, Andrićev venac 4, Dositejeva 1 OZON, Andrićev venac 12, www.o3one.rs SALON MUZEJA SAVREMENE UMETNOSTI, Pariska 14, www.msub.org.rs UMETNIČKI PAVILJON CVIJETA ZUZORIĆ, Mali Kalemegdan, www.ulus.org.rs VELIKA GALERIJA DK STUDENTSKI GRAD, Bulevar AVNOJ-a 179, www.dksg.rs
BIBLIOTEKE - LIBRARIES BIBLIOTEKA GRADA BEOGRADA / BELGRADE CITY LIBRARY, Knez Mihailova 56, tel. 202-4024, www.bgb.org.rs
NARODNA BIBLIOTEKA SRBIJE / SERBIAN NATIONAL LIBRARY, Skerlićeva 1, tel. 2451-242 www.nb.rs
UNIVERZITETSKA BIBLIOTEKA „SVETOZAR MARKOVIĆ“- UNIVERSITY LIBRARY „SVETOZAR MARKOVIĆ“, Bulevar kralja Aleksandra 71, tel. 3370-509, www.unilib.bg.ac.rs
RESTORANI U SKADARLIJI – RESTAURANTS IN SKADARLIJA (traditional live music) DVA BELA GOLUBA**, Bulevar despota Stefana 3, tel. 323-9079 DVA JELENA ****, Skadarska 32, tel. 323-4885 IMA DANA****, Skadarska 38, tel. 323-4422 ŠEŠIR MOJ, Skadarska 21, tel. 322-8750 TRI ŠEŠIRA****, Skadarska 29, tel. 324-7501 ZLATNI BOKAL***, Skadarska 26, tel. 323-4834
INTERNACIONALNA I NACIONALNA KUHINJAINTERNATIONAL & NATIONAL CUISINE BUSSINES CLUB „JELENA”, Generala Šturma 1, tel. 3066509 CANTINA DE FRIDA, Karađorđeva 2-4, tel. 2181107 DAKA, Beograd, Hercegovačka 10, tel. 219-7423 DEVETKA, Kneza Višeslava 25, tel. 3559-783 DIVA, Bulevar Nikole Tesle 3, tel. 2202 822 ĐORĐE, Hadži Milentijeva 47 (ulaz iz Moravske 10) tel. 3441-422 EL TORO, Masarikova 5, tel. 3612-429 FRANŠ, Bulevar oslobođenja 18a, tel. 2641-944 GINGER, Bulevar Nikole Tesle 3, tel. 2202- 822 IGUANA, Karađorđeva 2-4, tel. 328-3749 KALEMEGDANSKA TERASA, Kalemegdan bb, tel. 328-3011 KEJ, Kej oslobođenja 11e, Zemun, tel. 307-6866 KLUB KNJIŽEVNIKA, Francuska 7, tel. 2627-931 KOD KAPETANA, Kej oslobođenja 43, Zemun, tel. 2103-950 KOLARAC, Knez Mihailova 46, tel. 2638-972 KOVAČ, Bulevar oslobodjenja 221, tel. 2462-343 KUMBARA, General Ždanova 36, tel. 3906-877 LORENZO&KAKALAMBA, Cvijićeva 110, tel. 3285-351 MADERA, Bulevar kralja Aleksandra 43, tel. 3231-332 NA ĆOŠKU, Beogradska 37, tel. 3236-470
BELGRADE RESTAURANTS/BEOGRADSKI RESTORANI ORAČ, Makenzijeva 81, tel. 2440-507 PIRE SLOW FOOD, Cara Lazara 11, tel. 2634-994 PLATANI, Kej oslobođenja 45, tel. 2101-401 PROMAYA, Karađorđeva 8a, tel. 2621-494 PUBLIC DINE&WINE, Kosančićev venac 29, tel.328-3680 RESTORAN 27, Istarska 27, tel. 2651-831 RUBIN, Kneza Višeslava 29, tel. 3510-987 SRPSKA KAFANA, Svetogorska 25, tel. 3247-197 STARA CARINARNICA, Kej oslobođenja 31, tel.2616-930 STARA HERCEGOVINA, Carigradska 36, tel. 324-5856 TABOR, Bulevar kralja Aleksandra 348, tel. 2412-464 TALAS, Kej oslobođenja 37, Zemun, tel. 3730-925 TRIBECA, Kralja Petra 20, tel. 328-5566 VUK, Vuka Karadžića 12, tel. 2629-761 ZAPLET, Kajmakčalanska 2, tel.240-4142 ZLATAR, Preradovićeva 9a, tel. 2754-651 (live music) ZLATNIK, Kej oslobođenja35, Zemun, tel. 210- 5565 ZNAK PITANJA „?”, Kralja Petra 16, tel. 2635-421
SPECIJALIZOVANI RESTORANI – SPECIALTIES RESTAURANTS AMPHORA, Bulevar Nikole Tesle bb, tel.2699-789 mediterranean cuisine BALSAC, Strahinjića bana 13, tel.3285-906 french cuisine BELLA ITALIJA “KOD GARIĆA”, Bulevar Arsenija Čarnojevića 95, tel. 311-3778 italian cuisine BELLA NAPOLI, Zmaj Jovina 35, Zemun, tel.2198-162 italian cuisine BYBLOS, Nebojšina 6, tel. tel. 244 19 38, lebanon cuisine
CASA, Makenzijeva 24, tel. 3860-866 IKKI BAR, Gospodar Jovanova 46, tel. 2184-183 japanese cuisine INDIAN PALACE, Ljubička 1b, tel. 3446-235 indian cuisine IPANEMA, Strahinjića bana 68, tel. 3283-069 italian cuisine FRESKA, Vuka Karadžića 12, tel. 3284-879 italian cuisine GUŠTI MORA, Radnička 27, tel. 355-1268 sea food MAMMA MIA, Resavska 70, tel. 2687-683 italian cuisine PANE E VINO, Dobračina 6, tel.3036-011 italian cuisine PEKING, Vuka Karadžića 2, tel. 2181-931chinese cuisine PIETRO DELL`ORO, Trnska 2, tel.3447-700 italian cuisine TORO, Karađorđeva 2-4, tel. 3034-342, Latin Gastro Bar TRAG, Đorđa Jovanovića 2, tel. 3227-495 italian cuisine VILLA CLUB 69, Krunska 69, tel. 3442-656 french&italian cuisine ZAPATA, Vojvode Bogdana 13, tel. 3809-207 mexican cuisine
RESTORANI NA VODI - BOAT RESTAURANTS AMSTERDAM, Kej oslobođenja bb, tel.319-4971 BAHUS, Kej oslobođenja bb, tel.301-5082 ČARDA STARA KOLIBA, Ušće bb, tel.3117-666, 3117-444 DINERS CLUB PRINCIPAL, Ušće bb, tel. 2140-467 KOLIBA, Ušće bb, tel. 311-7444 OTARD, Zemunski kej bb, tel.. 3195-905 PRESTIGE, Bulevar Nikole Tesle bb, tel.2695-308 VODENICA, Bulevar vojvode Bojovića 5b, tel. 2628-250 ŽABAR, Kej oslobođenja bb, Zemun, tel. 3191-226
BELGRADE HOTELS/BEOGRADSKI HOTELI HOTELI – HOTELS HYATT REGENCY BELGRADE, Milentija Popovića 5, tel. 301-1234 METROPOL PALACE BELGRADE, Bulevar kralja Aleksandra 69 , tel. 3333-100 PRESIDENT, SC Kovilovo, Zrenjaninski put 170, tel. 2075-200 SQUARE NINE HOTEL BELGRADE, Studenstki trg 9, tel. 3333 500 ZLATNIK, Dobanovačka 95, tel. 3167-511 88 ROOMS, Takovska 49, tel. 411-9088 Crowne Plaza belgrade, Vladimira Popovica 10, tel. 220-4004 BAH – BEOGRAD ART HOTEL,Knez Mihailova 27 tel. 3312-000 BEST WESTERN Hotel M, Bulevar Oslobođenja 56a, tel. 3095-505 BEST WESTERN Hotel Šumadija, Šumadijski trg 8, tel. 3554-255 CRYSTAL, Internacionalnih brigada 9 tel. 715-1000 EVROPA, Sremska 1, tel. 3626-017 HOLIDAY INN, Španskih boraca 74, tel. 310-0000 IN HOTEL, Bulevar Arsenija Čarnojevića 56, tel. 310-5300 FALKENSTEINER HOTEL BELGRADE, Bulevar Mihajla Pupina, tel. 453 2325 JUMP INN, Zagrebačka 2a, tel. 404-9650 LIFE DESIGN, Balkanska 18, tel. 3626-090 MAJESTIC, Obilićev venac 28, tel. 3285-777 fax 3284-995 MAJDAN, Mokroluška 174d, tel. 7466-060 MOSKVA, Balkanska 1, tel. 2686-255 MR.PRESIDENT DESIGN HOTEL, Karađorđeva 75, tel.361-2050 NEVSKI , Venizelusova 24a, tel. 322-9722 PALACE, Topličin venac 23, tel. 2185-585, 2637-222 PRAG - POSLOVNI HOTEL, Kraljice Natalije 27, tel. 321-4444 PRESTIGE, Bulevar vojvode Mišića 24, tel. 3057-465 QUEEN ASTORIA, Milovana Milovanovića 1a, tel. 2645-422 SRBIJA GARNI HOTEL, Brankova 13-15, tel: 2633-323 SLAVIJA LUX, Svetog Save 2, tel. 2450-842 TOWNHOUSE 27, Maršala Birjuzova 56, tel. 2022-900 ZEDER, Vojni put II 164e, Zemun, tel. 3141-400, 3149-808 ZIRA, Ruzveltova 35, tel. 3314-800 AGRO GARNI HOTEL, Kralja Milana 25, tel. 3640-425 BALKAN GARNI, Prizrenska 2, tel.3636-000 BELGRADE CITY HOTEL, Savski trg 7, Beograd, tel. 761 70 23 EXCELSIOR, Kneza Miloša 5, tel. 3231-381 JUGOSLAVIJA, Bulevar Nikole Tesle 3, tel. 4022-222 KASINA, Terazije 25, tel. 3235-574 fax 3238-257 LE PETIT PIAF, Skadarska 34, tel. 3035-858 NACIONAL, Autoput 5, tel. 2601-156 ORAŠAC, Luke Vojvodića 25N, tel. 3055-822 PARK, Njegoševa 4, tel. 3640-385 REX, Sarajevska 37, tel. 361-1862 ROYAL, Kralja Petra 56, tel. 2626-426 SKALA, Zemun, Bežanijska 3, tel. 196-605, 3075-032 SLODES, Borska 92, tel. 3055-518 SRBIJA, Ustanička 127c, tel. 289-0404 TULIP INN , Palmira Toljatija 9 , tel. 2259-813 BEOGRAD, Balkanska 52, tel. 2645-361 BRISTOL, Karađorđeva 50, Belgrade, tel. 2631-895 LAV, Cara Dušana 240, Zemun, tel. 3163-289 SLAVIJA, Svetog Save 1-9, tel. 2450-842 TAŠ, Beogradska 71, tel. 3243-507 TRIM, Kneza Višeslava 72, tel 3540-670
INFORMATION/OPŠTE INFORMACIJE HOTELI U OKOLINI BEOGRADA HOTELS IN BELGRADE`S VICINITY BABE ***, Sopot, M.Milinkovića 3, tel.8260-078 OBRENOVAC**, Obrenovac, Miloša Obrenovića 189, tel. 872-1039 RADMILOVAC **, Smederevski put bb, tel. ) 341 61 40, SUČEVIĆ M ***, Dugo polje 1a, Avalski put, tel. 3907-777 fax. 3907-771
PUTOVANJA - TRAVEL Aerodrom “Nikola Tesla” – Airport Nikola Tesla, tel. 209-4444 www.beg.aero Beogradska autobuska stanica - Belgrade Bus Station, Železnička 4, tel. 2636-299, 2627-146 www.bas.co.rs
Međunarodni železnički saobraćaj - International railway transport, tel. 360-2899 Međunarodni autobuski saobraćaj- International bus transport, tel. 2622-526, 2627-146
Saobraćajno preduzeće Lasta – Transport Company Lasta, Niški put 4, tel. 2882-740 www.lasta.co.rs
Železnička stanica Beograd - Railway Station Belgrade, Savski trg 2, tel. 2645-822 www.zeleznicesrbije.com
RENT-A-CAR AVACO RENT A CAR, Avaco – Trnska 7, 11000 Beograd, Srbija, tel. 24 33 797, 34 48 981 Avaco – Aerodrom Nikola Tesla, Beograd, tel. 22 86 434, mob.381 65 535 33 25, Budget, Antifašističke borbe 38, 11000 Beograd, tel. 311 3050 Omniturs, Savski trg 7, Beograd, tel. 761 - 0127 Axiom , Bul.A.Carnojevica 66, tel. 761 - 0127 Skill, Milentija Popovica 9, Sava Centar. tel. 311-3684 Europcar, Bulevar M. Pupina, 10g, tel. 212 03 42 Get Mobile, Zorana Đinđiča 45 v, 11000 Beograd, tel. 313 06 39 UTD, Sava Centar, Milentija Popovića 9, tel. 20 5000 AVIS, Hotel Hyatt Regency, Milentija Popovića 5, Beograd, tel. 313 96 16 HERTZ, Vladimira Popovica 6, tel. 20 28 200 SIXT, Žorža Klemensoa 19, tel. 328 7070
AVIO KOMPANIJE - AIRWAY COMPANIES AIR SERBIA, Bulevar kralja Aleksandra 17, tel.3232-372, www.airserbia.com AEROFLOT, Knez Mihailova 30/III, tel. 328-6064 www.aeroflot.ru AEROSVIT, Nikole Spasića 3, tel. 3283-430 www.aerosvit.com AIR FRANCE, Knez Mihailova 30/II, tel. 2638-222 www.airfrance.com AL ITALIA, Terazije 43/I, tel. 3245-000 www.alitalia.com AUSTRIAN AIRLINES, Terazije 3/III, tel. 3248-077 www.austrian.com BRITISH AIRWAYS, Knez Mihailova 30/IV, tel. 3281-303 www.britishairways.com CZECH AIRLINES, Kralja Milana 6/I, tel. 3614-592 www.czechairlines.com EMIRATES, Knez Mihailova 30/III, tel./fax. 303-4489 www.emirates.com LUFThANSA, Terazije 3/VII, tel. 3034-944 www.lufthansa.com MONTENEGRO AIRLINES, Knez Mihailova 23/I, tel. 2621-122, www.montenegroairlines.com OLYMPIC AIRLINES, Vasina 14/1, tel. 3036-750 www.olimpicairlines.com Qatar Airways ,Studentski trg 10, tel. 2627-879, www.qatarairways.com
QANTAS, Knez Mihailova 30/III, tel. 2639-166, www.qantas.com.au SINGAPORE AIRLINES, Francuska 17/I, tel. 3035-738, www.singaporeair.rs/ž SRI LANKAN AIRLINES, Trg Nikole Pašića 12/4, tel. 3035-739, www.srilankan.aero SWISS INTERNATIONAL, Terazije 3/VII, tel. 3030-140 ,www.swiss.com TUNISAIR, Skadarska 19/I, tel. 3233-174, www.tunisair.com TURKISH AIRLINES, Knez Mihailova 30/V, tel. 3036-195, www.thy.com
DIPLOMATSKA PREDSTAVNIŠTVA-DIPLOMATIC OFFICES ALBANIJA/ALBANIA, Bulevar kneza Aleksandra Karađorđevića 25A, tel. 3066-642, fax 2665-439 ALŽIR/ALGERIA, Maglajska 26b, tel. 3671-211 fax 2668-200 ANGOLA/ANGOLA, Vladete Kovačevića 14, tel. 2653-422 fax 2653-424 ARGENTINA/ARGENTINA, Knez Mihailova 24/I, tel. 2623-751 fax 2622-630 AUSTRALIJA/AUSTRALIA, Vladimira Popovića 38-40, 8th floor, tel. 3303-400 fax 3303-409 AUSTRIJA/AUSTRIA, Kneza Sime Markovića 2, tel. 3336-500, 3031-964 fax.2635-606 Konzulat/Consular Section, tel. 3336-593
BELGIJA/BELGIUM, Krunska 18, tel. 3230-018 fax 3244-394 Odelj. za vize/Visa Section, tel. 0800/120-120
BELORUSIJA/BELARUS, Deligradska 13, tel. 3616-938 fax 3616-836 BOLIVIJA/BOLIVIA, -consulate, Slobodana Jovanovića 23, tel./fax 2757-819 BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA/ BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA, Krunska 9, tel.3241-170 fax 3241-057 Konzulat/Consular section, tel.3038-204
BRAZIL/BRAZIL, Krunska 14, tel. 3239-781 fax 3230-653 BUGARSKA/BULGARIA, Birčaninova 26, tel. 3613-980 fax 3611-136 Konzulat/Consular section, Hadži Milentijeva 69, tel.3446-454
CRNA GORA/MONTENEGRO, Užička 1, tel. 2668-975, fax 3699-546 ČEŠKA/CZECH REPUBLIC, Bulevar kralja Aleksandra 22, tel. 3230-133 fax 3236-448 ČILE/CHILE-consulate, Tomaša Ježa 16-20, tel./fax 2459-974 DANSKA/DENMARK, Neznanog junaka 9a, tel. 3679-500 fax 3679-502 EGIPAT/EGYPT, Andre Nikolića 12, tel. 2650-585 fax 2652-036 EKVADOR/ECUADOR-consulate, Graničarska 8/III, tel./fax. 3440-135 FINSKA/FINLAND, Birčaninova 29, tel. 3065-400 fax 3065-375 FRANCUSKA/FRANCE, Pariska 11, tel. 3023-500 fax. 3023-510 GABON/GABON- consulate, Lomina 48, tel. 3626-147 fax 3626-110 GANA/GHANA, Djordja Vajferta 50, tel. 3440-856 fax 344-0071 GRČKA/GREECE, Francuska 33, tel. 3226-523 fax 3344-746 Konzulat/Consular Section, Strahinjića bana 76, tel. 3341-507
GVINEJA/GUINEA, Ohridska 4, tel./fax 3444-840 HOLANDIJA/ThE NEThERLANDS, Simina 29, tel. 2023-900 fax 2023-999 HRVATSKA/CROATIA, Kneza Miloša 62, tel. 3610-535 fax 3610-032 Konzulat/Consular Section, Sime Lozanića 11, tel. 3670-078 fax 3613-566
INDIJA/INDIA, Ljutice Bogdana 8, tel.2661-029 fax 3674-209 INDONEZIJA/INDONESIA, Bulevar kneza Aleksandra Karađorđevića 18, tel. 3674-062 fax 3672-984 IRAN/IRAN, Ljutice Bogdana 40, tel. 3674-360 fax 3674-363 ITALIJA/ITALY, Birčaninova 11, tel. 3066-100 fax 3249-413 Odeljenje za vize/Visa Section, Birčaninova 9, tel.3066-169
IZRAEL/ISRAEL, Bulevar kneza Aleksandra Karađorđevića 47, tel. 3643-500 fax 3643-555 JAPAN/JAPAN, Vladimira Popovića 6, (Genex Apartments), tel. 3012-800 fax 311-8258 KANADA/CANADA, Kneza Miloša 75, tel. 3063-000 fax 3063-042 KINA/CHINA, Avgusta Cesarca 2V, tel. 3695-057 fax 3066-001 Konzulat/Consular Section, Perside Milenković 9, tel. 3693-163
KIPAR/CYPRUS, Generala Save Grujića 18, tel. 3620-002 fax 3621-122 KONGO/CONGO, Moravska 5, tel/fax. 3446-431 KUBA/CUBA, Vukovarska 3, tel. 3692-441 fax 3692-442 LIBAN/LEBANON, Diplomatska kolonija 5, tel. 3675-153 fax 3675-156 LIBIJA/LIBYA, Sime Lozanića 6, tel. 2663-445 fax 3670-805 MAĐARSKA/HUNGARY, Krunska 72, tel. 2440-472 fax 3441-876 Konzulat/Consular Section, Vladete Kovačevića 3, tel. 3691-974
MAKEDONIJA/MACEDONIA, Gospodar Jevremova 34, tel. 3284-924 fax 3285-076 Konzulat/ Consular Section, tel. 3284-967 (except Wednesday)
MALEZIJA/ MALAYSIA, Krajiška 2, tel. 2662-736 fax 3679-080 MAROKO/MOROCCO, Sanje Živanović 4, tel. 369-0288 fax 3690-499 MEKSIKO/MEXICO, Ljutice Bogdana 5, tel. 3674-170, fax 3675-013 MIJANMAR/MYANMAR, Kneza Miloša 72, tel. 3617-165 fax 3614-968 NAMIBIJA/NAMIBIA-consulate, Boška Buhe 220, Grocka, mob.063/1111 450
BelGuest Summer | Leto 2014
105
INFORMATION/OPŠTE INFORMACIJE NEMAČKA/GERMANY, Kneza Miloša 74-76, tel. 3064-300 fax 3064-303 Konzulat/Consular Section, Birčaninova 19a, tel. 3064-400 NORVEŠKA/NORWAY, Užička 43, tel. 367-0404 fax 369-0158 PAKISTAN/PAKISTAN, Bulevar kneza Aleksandra Karađorđevića 62, tel. 2661-676 fax 2661-667 PALESTINA/PALESTINE, Maglajska 14, tel. 3671-407 fax 3671-336 PAPSKI NUNCIJAT/APOSTOLIC NUNCIATURE, Svetog Save 24, tel. 3085-356 fax 3085-216 POLJSKA/POLAND, Kneza Miloša 38, tel. 2065-301 fax 3617-576 PORTUGAL/PORTUGAL, Vladimira Gaćinovića 4, tel. 2662-894 fax 2662-892 REPUBLIKA IRSKA/REPUBLIC OF IRELAND – consulat, Kosančićev venac 2/1, tel. 263-5911 REPUBLIKA KOREJA/REPUBLIC OF KOREA, Užička 32 tel. 3674-225 fax. 3674-229 RUMUNIJA/ROMANIA, Užička 10, tel. 3675-772 fax 3675-771 Konzulat/Consular Section, Miloja Đaka 1c,tel. 3670-798 RUSIJA/RUSSIAN FEDERATION, Deligradska 32, tel. 3611-323 fax 3611-900 Konzulat/ Consular Section, tel. 3613-964 SAD/USA, Kneza Miloša 50, tel. 3619-344, fax 361-5489 SAN MARINO/ SAN MARINO, Makedonska 24/25, tel.3223-509 fax.3374-144 SEJŠELI/SEYCHELLES-consulate, Beogradskog bataljona 42, tel. 3547-309 fax 3547-028 SIRIJA/SYRIA, Aleksandra Stambolijskog 13, tel. 2666-124 fax 3440-221 SLOVAČKA/SLOVAK REPUBLIC, Bulevar umetnosti 18, tel. 2223-800 fax 2223-820 SLOVENIJA/SLOVENIA, Pariska 15, tel. 3038-477 fax 3288-657 ŠPANIJA/SPAIN, Prote Mateje 45, tel. 344-0231 fax 344-4203 ŠRI LANKA/SRI LANKA- consulate, Žanke Stokić 21, tel. 3690-245 fax 369-0243 ŠVAJCARSKA/SWITZERLAND, Birčaninova 27, tel. 306-5820 fax 2657-253 Odeljenje za vize/ Visa Section, tel. 3065-815 ŠVEDSKA/SWEDEN, Ledi Pedžet 2, tel. 2069-200 fax 2069-250 Odeljenje za vize/Visa Section,
fax 2069-270 (except Wednesday)
TUNIS/TUNISIA, Vase Pelagića 19, tel. 3690-194 fax 2651-848 TURSKA/TURKEY, Krunska 1, tel. 333-2400 fax 333-2433 UKRAJINA/UKRAINE, Bulevar oslobođenja 87, tel. 3978-987 fax 3978-998 Konzulat/Consular Section tel. 2660-247 VELIKA BRITANIJA/GREAT BRITAIN, Resavska 46, tel. 2645-055, 3060-900 fax 2659-651 UJEDINJENE NACIJE/UNITED NATIONS, Tolstojeva 47-49, tel. 3639-803, fax. 3674-001 EVROPSKA ZAJEDNICA/EUROPEAN UNION, Krunska 73,tel. 3083-200 fax. 3083-201
KONGRESNI CENTAR SAVA - CONGRESS CENTER SAVA Milentija Popovića 9, tel. 220-6060, www.savacentar.net
BEOGRADSKI SAJAM – BELGRADE FAIR Bulevar vojvode Mišića 14, tel. 2655-555, /www.sajam.co.rs
TURISTIČKE AGENCIJE - TOURIST AGENCIES YUTA -Jugoslovensko udruženje turističkih agencija Yugoslav Association of Tourist Agencies Kondina 14, tel. 3228-687, 3228-686 fax 3224-137 www.yuta.rs GLOB METROPOLITEN TOURS, Makenzijeva 26, t el. 2430-852, www.metropoliten.com EXCLUSIVE TOURS, Makedonska 30, tel. 3227-539 www.exclusivetours.co.rs MAGELAN CORPORATION, Novi Sad, Zmaj Jovina 23, tel. 021/6624-823 www.magelan.rs PAN EUROPA ADRIATIC, Bulevar Despota Stefana 33, tel. 3242-187 www.adriatic.co.rs SMART TRAVEL, Svetog Save 43/ I, tel. 2441253, 3087486 www.smart4.co.rs
INFORMATION/OPŠTE INFORMACIJE MEDICINSKE USLUGE - MEDICAL SERVICES DEŽURNE ZDRAVSTVENE USTANOVE ON-CALL HEALTH INSTITUTIONS KLINIČKI CENTAR SRBIJE, Pasterova 2, 3618-444, 3617-777 BOLNICE - HOSPITALS KLINIČKI CENTAR SRBIJE, Pasterova 2, tel. 361-8444, 361-7777 KLINIČKI CENTAR BEŽANIJSKA KOSA, Bežanijska bb, tel. 3010-777 KLINIKA Dr DRAGIŠA MIŠOVIĆ, Heroja Milana Tepića 1, tel. 2669-955 KLINIKA ZVEZDARA, Dimitrija Tucovića 161, tel. 3806-333 KLINIČKI CENTAR ZEMUN, Vukova 9, tel.2612-616 VOJNOMEDICINSKA KLINIKA, Crnotravska 17, tel. 2661-122 PRIVATNE KLINIKE - PRIVATE CLINICS BEL MEDIC General Hospital, Koste Jovanovića 87 tel. 309-1000 EUROMEDIK, Aleksandra Nenadovića 8, tel. 344-8056 JEDRO, Jurija Gagarina 14, tel. 7150-715 MEDENTA, Novopazarska 14/1, tel: 344-0017 SLODENT, Centar za estetsku stomatologiju, Lješka35, Beograd , tel: 3553-088 , 060/3553-088
INTERNACIONALNE ŠKOLE - INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS ANGLO AMERICAN SCHOOL OF BELGRADE, Velisava Vulovića 47, tel. 3675-777 www.aplus.edu.rs BRITANNICA INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL, Užička 21, tel. 367-1557, www.britinterschool.com
BRITISH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL, Smetanina 12, tel.3066-096, www.british-int-school.org.uk
BROOK HILL INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL, Augusta Cesarca 2, tel. 3691-310 www.brookhill.rs
CHARTWELL INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL, Teodora Drajzera 38, tel. 3675-299 www.chartwellinternational.org
DEUTSCHE SCHULE, Sanje Živanović 10, tel. 3693-135, www.dsbelgrad.com ÉCOLE FRANÇAISE, Kablarska 31-35, tel. 3691-762, www.efb.rs INTERNATIONAL NURSERY SCHOOL,Temišvarska 2 , tel.2667-130, www.insb.rs NTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF BELGRADE (ISB),Temišvarska 19, tel.206 9999, www.isb.co.rs PADDINGTON SUNFLOWER, English nursery, Belville, tel. 069-750-930 , www.paddingtonsunflower.com
PRIMA INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL, Kvarnerska 4, tel. 369-3060,www primainterschoolbelgrade.com Российская школа в Белграде, Bulevar umetnosti 28, tel. 2163-883, www.serbschool.ucoz.ru
SPORT FUDBALSKI STADIONI - FOOTBALL STADIUMS GRADSKI STADION ZEMUN, Ugrinovačka 80, Zemun, tel. 3196-057 OMLADINSKI STADION (OFK “Beograd”), Mije Kovačevića 10, tel. 3292-340 STADION FK “CRVENA ZVEZDA”, Ljutice Bogdana 1, tel. 3672-060 STADION JNA (FK “PARTIZAN”), Humska 1, tel. 3227-181 STADION FK “OBILIĆ”, Gospodara Vučića 189, tel. 3807-426 STADION FK “RAD”, Crnotravska 4, tel. 3671-267 BAZENI - SWIMMING POOLS BANJICA, Crnotravska 4, tel. 2667-999 25. MAJ, Tadeuša Košćuškog 63, tel. 2622-866 11. APRIL, Auto-put 2, tel. 2671-547 KOŠUTNJAK, Kneza Višeslava 72, tel. 7551-353 OLIMP, Vjekoslava Kovača 11, tel. 2412-353 TAŠMAJDAN, Ilije Garašanina 26, tel. 324-0901
NOVOSADSKI SAJAM
NOVI SAD FAIR
www.sajam.net www.novisadexpo.com
Kalendar priredbi Calendar of Events 1 - 5/10
MEĐUNARODNI SAJMOVI „LORISA” 47. međunarodni SAJAM LOVA, RIBOLOVA, SPORTA I AUTOMOBILIZMA 4. međunarodni SAJAM ŠUMARSTVA 21. međunarodni SAJAM HORTIKULTURE INTERNATIONAL FAIRS “LORISA“ 47th International FAIR OF HUNTING, FISHING, SPORTS AND AUTOMOBILE INDUSTRY 4th International FAIR OF FORESTRY 21st International FAIR OF HORTICULTURE
3 - 5/10
5. međunarodni SAJAM KONJARSTVA I SERSANA 5th International FAIR OF HORSE-BREEDING AND EQUIPMENT
16 - 20/10
7 - 10/11
INVESTEXPO 9. međunarodni SAJAM INVESTICIJA DANI ENERGETIKE, EKOLOGIJE I ZAŠTITE ŽIVOTNE SREDINE INFORMACIONE TEHNOLOGIJE SAJAM GRAĐEVINARSTVA, OPREME I GRAĐEVINSKIH MAŠINA SAJAM NAMEŠTAJA 9th International FAIR OF INVESTMENTS DAYS OF POWER SUPPLY, ECOLOGY AND ENVIRONMENT INFORMATION TECHNOLOGY BUILDING FAIR, EQUIPMENT AND CONSTRUCTION MACHINERY FURNITURE FAIR 19. međunarodna izložba zlatarstva i časovničarstva SJAJ SAJAM VENČANJA 19th International EXHIBITION OF JEWELLERY AND WATCHES “SJAJ“ WEDDING FAIR
SRB - 21000 Novi Sad, Hajduk Veljkova 11 Tel/Phone: + 381 (0)21/483-00-00 E. mail: info@sajam.net