Beyond Taste La vida mรกs dulce
SUMMER 2017
Crédito de fotografía: Jordi Roca - El Celler de Can Roca
SUMMER MAST HEAD
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Publisher: Margaux Alexandria Cintrano Consultant: Philippe Germain Graphic Artist: Alba Digital – Madrid, Spain ( alba@albadigital.com ) French Consultant: Philippe Germain English Consultant: Margaux Cintrano Oceania Consultant: Phillip Nordt Italian Consultant: Photographer Claudio Mollo Italian Media Press Consultant: Photographer Roberto Savio Spanish Consultant: Margaux Cintrano Summer Photographers: Italy: Claudio Mollo France: Author & Photographer Philippe Germain of Visions Gourmandes Publishing Projects Greece: Photographer Harry Zampetoulas All Other Photographers: Credited on Articles / Interviews
PUBLISHER´S PAGE By: Publisher Margaux Cintrano
Welcome to the Summer Edition of Beyond Taste Magazine. In this Edition, Beyond Taste is featuring Food Designers, Photographers, Writers, and Dessert Designers from a vast variety of countries in several languages who shall be capturing the spirit of summer´s bounty, incredible photography and dream paradises for your upcoming vacation. Our Autumn Christmas Edition deadline is September 20th, launching during the week of November 24th. Have a sensational summer and Thank you all once again Publisher Margaux Alexandria Cintrano
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Crédito de fotografía: Jordi Roca - El Celler de Can Roca
CONTENTS
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Pg. 2: Mast Head Pg. 3: Publisher’s page Pg. 6: Phillipe Germain Pg. 24: Laurent Jeannine Pg. 28: Christophe Felder Pg. 36: Vajda Istvan Pg. 46: Jordi Roca Pg. 56: Bass Meerveld Pg. 64: Gianni Bauce Pg. 80: Wuttisak Wuttiamporn Pg. 88: Keiichi Hashimoto Pg. 98: Phillip Nordt Pg. 114: Stam Halfmike Pg. 124: Harry Zampetoulas Pg. 132: Roberto Cortez Pg. 140 : Paolo Barichella
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Philippe Germain Author and Photographer of Visions Gourmandes
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INTERVIEW By: Journaliste Margaux Cintrano
Photo: Philippe Germain
Margaux: Parlez-nous de l'histoire qui vous a conduit à écrire un livre sur le dressage d'assiettes
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Philippe Germain : Effectivement, il y a 3 ans m’est venue l’idée du concept de Visions Gourmandes. A l’occasion de ma présence en tant que membre du jury d’un concours de Chef, j’ai réalisé que la part accordée à la présentation d’une assiette méritait d’être développée davantage. J’ai donc décidé de mettre en œuvre quelques moyens pour permettre à tout le monde d’accéder à quelques outils dans ce sens. Ça a commencé par la présence de Visions Gourmandes sur les réseaux sociaux. La seconde phase a concerné la mise au point d’un website dédié à cette discipline. Enfin, après quelques mois, le projet de Visions Gourmandes a abouti avec un livre sorti l'année dernière, qui rencontre depuis un énorme succès car il constitue le seul ouvrage de référence au monde sur ce sujet. Ce livre est tout autant apprécié des Chefs qui souhaitent parfaire leurs techniques, que par les particuliers qui souhaitent apprendre à faire des belles présentations.
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Margaux: Où est-ce que vous êtes installé ? Philippe Germain : Je suis installé à Montpellier (dans le Sud de la France). C’est une ville très agréable, très lumineuse, proche de la mer et qui est très dynamique toute l’année. Margaux: Ce qui a motivé ou inspiré votre intérêt profond pour la photographie... Philippe Germain: Jeune, je me suis souvent amusé à faire de la photo avec un appareil argentique… Par la suite, j’ai beaucoup travaillé dans les métiers de la communication (direction studio) où les arts graphiques et la photographie étaient très présents. Mais c’est quand je me suis mis à voyager que j’ai découvert le vrai plaisir de saisir des moments magiques, dans la rue, avec un appareil numérique. Avec le projet de Visions Gourmandes, j'ai abordé tous les aspects de la photographie culinaire pour exécuter les photos du livre. Margaux: La plupart des chefs de la direction de travail, n'ont pas le temps d’habiller les assiettes, avez-vous des solutions pour leur montrer comment faire, ou pour leur enseigner (coaching eux) quelques techniques ?
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Philippe Germain: Dans les très grands restaurants, une très grande attention est portée au dressage de l’assiette… Pour le reste, il s’agit quelquefois d’un manque de temps en cuisine, mais je crois que l’attention apportée au dressage des assiettes est avant tout un état d’esprit. Avec très peu de moyens et de temps, vous pouvez réaliser de belles assiettes. Il suffit de suivre quelques règles très simples. Le dernier point concerne la créativité et les sources d’inspirations… Et c’est là que Visions Gourmandes peut amener un outil complémentaire aux amateurs de belles présentations. En s’enrichissant au fil du temps, Le website apportera de plus en plus de moyens et d’outils d’aide à la réalisation de belles assiettes.
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Margaux: Les saisons, les produits, les arômes, l’ambiance, les couleurs, le restaurant, ce qui vous inspire ? Philippe Germain: A vrai dire, ce qui m’inspire, c’est ce qu’inspire la vue de l’assiette. Bien sûr qu’il faut travailler avec ces éléments, mais ce qui m’intéresse avant tout est l’aspect final de l’assiette, quelques soient les produits, arômes, couleurs ou style de cuisine.. Margaux: Malheureusement, la plupart des photos qu'on voit affichées sur internet (sur Facebook par exemple) sont prises avec un téléphone portable et, comme vous le savez bien, la qualité des photos n'est pas la meilleure. Philippe Germain: Bien sûr, il est dommage que la plupart des photos d’assiettes qu’on peut voir soient de piètre qualité. Mais tout le monde ne peut pas connaitre les bases de la photo. Heureusement, les téléphones portables sont de plus en plus sophistiqués et performants, et la qualité des prises de vue s’améliore de plus en plus. Un petit tuyau en passant : les 2 premiers points importants pour réussir une photo sont d’avoir l’assiette bien éclairée et ensuite de faire attention à ne pas bouger l’appareil en prenant la photo. Margaux: Dites-moi, à propos de vos voyages les plus remarquables/mémorables... J'ai vu certaines de vos belles photos prises en Asie, par exemple. Avez-vous un voyage de rêve concernant l'art du dressage ?
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Philippe Germain: Même si en France, pays de la gastronomie, on trouve la plupart des très grands Chefs qui font d’excellentes présentations, il y a aussi un pays qui est très présent dans le domaine artistique culinaire, c’est le Japon. Les asiatiques aiment regarder avant de manger et les japonais sont passé maîtres dans l’art de présenter de belles assiettes. J’aimerais vraiment y faire un tour ! ;). Vous m’invitez à y aller ? LOL
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Margaux: De mon point de vue ou l’opinion, vos photos montrent un grand talent artistique. Dites-nous, qu'est-ce que vous demandez lors de la préparation d'une assiette avant une prise de vue ? Y a-t’il une formule unique que vous suggérez… Que vous recommandez ? Philippe Germain: Les seules règles qui s’appliquent à la photo sont celles qui rendent l’assiette belle et appétissante. Sans refaire un cours, je surveille surtout le respect de quelques règles essentielles de composition, d’options de mise en valeur (couleurs, textures, volumes…), et de réussite de la photo (éclairages, ombres, reliefs…) En matière de prise de vue de l’assiette, on est plus proche du stylisme culinaire (techniques de maquillage et de mise en valeur du plat pour prendre une photo) que du dressage réel en vue de servir l’assiette à un client. Pour autant, l’assiette photographiée doit être au plus près de ce que sera l’assiette présentée à un convive. Enfin, je reste vigilant sur ce qui fera une bonne photo, à savoir : une photo lisible, une photo qui « claque » (couleurs, lumières, contrastes…), une photo « gourmande » qu’on déguste d’abord avec les yeux. Margaux: Que faites-vous pour changer de votre métier ? Du sport, marcher sur la plage, de la gym, yoga... ? Philippe Germain : Ai-je oublié de dire que la photo est pour moi une passion ?... ;) Alors ce que je préfère faire pour de décontracter ou me changer, c’est faire de la photo… Mais dans la rue, en ville, là où il y a du monde, en me promenant, en regardant les gens, en surveillant les situations. A ce moment là, je transforme mon œil et je vois le monde différemment… Et je me régale !
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Margaux: Est-ce qu’il y a des choses que vous n’aimez pas faire en photo ? Philippe Germain: Comme je l’ai déjà dit, j’adore la photo de rue car elle est naturelle, rapide, intuitive et le résultat est immédiat ! Ou la photo est bonne, ou elle n’est pas bonne. Par opposition, la photo de studio est compliquée, longue, fastidieuse. Elle nécessite du matériel sophistiqué, de longues heures de post-production, et des résultats qui sont avant tout techniques. Alors j’attends l’invention de l’appareil photo magique qui réussirait la photo du premier coup ! lol A l’inverse, réussir une photo culinaire nécessite énormément d’ingéniosité pour contourner tous les problèmes techniques qui se présentent, et c’est un défi permanent qui amène bien des satisfactions quand la solution est trouvée. Margaux: Comment pensez-vous que vous avez changé personnellement puisque vous êtes passé de votre carrière dans les médias et la publicité pour devenir l'œil du public un photographe et auteur ? Philippe Germain: Je me demande si j’ai vraiment changé d’occupation professionnelle ! A vrai dire, je retrouve dans le projet de « Visions Gourmandes », toutes les compétences nécessaires aux métiers de la communication. Je n’ai donc pas l’impression d’un virage dans ma carrière, si ce n’est que le projet de Visions Gourmandes est personnel et sans enjeux stratégiques ou financiers. Margaux: Quels photographes admirez-vous le plus et pourquoi?
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Philippe Germain: Il n’y a pas de photographes que j’admire particulièrement. Je peux aimer tel ou tel photographe pour telle ou telle photo. Mais pas de mentor que je pourrais admirer.
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Margaux: Avec quels Chefs aimeriez-vous travailler et pourquoi ? Philippe Germain: Je suis très loin de connaitre l’ensemble de l’œuvre des Chefs qui existent de par le monde. Cependant, j’en découvre chaque jour davantage, et j’espère petit à petit avoir une vision plus objective des Chefs pour qui la créativité est importante. Beaucoup de styles et de personnalités différentes se retrouvent dans des réalisations que je peux voir. Je pourrais bien sûr citer quelques Chefs dont j’admire les réalisations, mais il y en a tellement… Margaux: Quelles sont vos villes favorites Philippe Germain: Paris, Bangkok… Parce que ce sont des villes riches culturellement et humainement, et où des surprises vous attendent à tous les coins de rue. Margaux: Vous avez projeté la rédaction d'un nouveau livre en 2017 – 2018 ? Philippe Germain: J'avais imaginé écrire des fascicules pour compléter le livre. Ces "opus" auraient pu être spécialisés, soit un fascicule par Chef, soit un fascicule par thème (un peu comme les rubriques sur le site de Visionsgourmandes.com). Mais cela représente un travail énorme et je réfléchis encore à une meilleure solution pour rendre cette idée plus pratique. Par contre, je propose de plus en plus de version traduites du livre pour permettre à tout le monde d'en profiter. Margaux: En quelles langues le livre est traduit ?
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Philippe Germain: Actuellement, le livre existe en version imprimée en Français. En ce qui concerne les versions numériques (PDF), le livre existe en Français, Anglais, Espagnol, Roumain, et depuis peu en Italien. La prochaine traduction à l'étude est l'Allemand. 19
Margaux: Où peut-on trouver votre livre ? Philippe Germain: Vous pouvez obtenir le livre imprimé uniquement par internet (sur Amazon, ou sur le site de Visionsgourmandes.com). Les versions PDF sont disponibles uniquement sur le site de Visionsgourmandes.com Margaux: Quels ont été vos derniers voyages les plus remarquables ? Philippe Germain: J'ai passé un grand moment l'hiver dernier dans le sud du Laos pour y rencontrer ces gens gentils. Margaux: Puisque vous avez crée le concept VISIONS GOURMANDES, pourquoi ne pas aider les amateurs de belles présentations par d´autres moyens ? NEW PROJECT NOW ? Philippe Germain: J'ai commencé à aborder le domaine de la vidéo sur Youtube. C'est un média très développé ailleurs qu'en France, mais je suppose que bientôt, tous les amateurs de cuisine en France s'inscriront sur Youtube pour profiter de ce support très utile et très didactique. J'y ai créé une chaîne que j'espère développer sérieusement dans les semaines qui viennent. Margaux: Quel nouveau pays vous aimeriez explorer pour de nouvelles photos ? Philippe Germain: J'ai programmé de voyager à Hong-Kong avant la fin de l'année pour faire un reportage sur les marchés et la cuisine de rue. A suivre... Margaux: Tous mes remerciements pour vos réponses :) 20
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Laurent Jeannin Pâtissier
LE BEYOND TASTE MAGAZINE ET MARGAUX ALEXANDRIA CINTRANO Rend hommage à LAURENT JEANNIN, Le Cuisinier et Pâtissier de L´ Hôtel Bristol à Paris, fréres d´ arnes depuis 10 ans d´ Cuisinier Éric Frechon, Chef Laurent, passioné et talentueux et se joint à sa familia et à ses proches dans cette douloureuse é preuve penssées les plus sincères.
Photo: Le Bristol Hotel Paris
Beyond Taste Magazine Margaux A. Cintrano
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Christophe Felder Pâtissier
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INTERVIEW By: Journaliste Margaux Cintrano
Photo: Atelier La Martiniere - Presse - France
Margaux : Commençons, ou êtes vous né et ou avez-vous grandi ? Christophe : Je suis né à Benfeld en Alsace et j´ai grand à quelques kilomêtres de là, à Schirmeck
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Margaux : Quand avez-vous découvert que vous vouliez devenir un Pâtissier et Chocolatier et Chef ? Christophe : Mes parents avaient leur Boulangerie – Pâtisserie à Schirmeck. J´ai grandi avec les bonnes odeurs de pâte feuilletée et sucrée! Comment y résister ? C´ était pour moi une évidence, laors que mon père aurait souhaité que je travaille dans une banque, moi c´ètait déjà décide je serais pâtissier Margaux : D´ou vient votre inspiration ? Christophe : Mon inspiration elle vien de partout à la fois et de mon humeur du moment seulement. Une simple odeur, un parfum, une couleur, peut d´ un selu coup d´ un seul étre le point de départ
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Margaux : Les Printemps. Est un moment spécial de i année, ayant ca en tête que allez cous servir durante cette saison ? Christophe : On attend tous le Printemps après plusieurs mois de froid. Avec ses journées qui rallongent, la nature qui se réveille, on a envie de couleurs. Le retour des fruits rouges et des fruits en géneral et de toutes ces belles tartes à venir .. Margaux : Les 2 livres ? Christophe : Le dernier paru avec mon associé Camille Lesecq LE DESSERT Bistro / Palace aux éditions de La Martinière ET SUROUT .. Le Prochain Margaux : Quelle est votre philosophie culinaire ? Christophe : Simple, mais très bon 32
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Margaux : Dites, nous quel degrés de importance, attribuer vous a la présentation de les desserts ? Christophe : Une présentation soignée est sans aucun doute très important, sans perdre de vue que .. tout ce qui se conçoit bien s´éntonce clairement .. alors .. une présentation simple et nette reste la + efficace pour moi. On mange d´bord avec les yeux certes mais on se régale avec le goût Margaux : Ou aimeriez vous faire un voyage gastronomique dream trip et pourquoi ? Christophe : Vous m´emmenez où ? Je me laisse guider, où que j´aille il aura sans aucun doute quelque chose d´ètonnant à goûter et à découvrir ..
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Vajda Istvan
Cuisinier Restaurant Prato - Brasov
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INTERVIEW By: Journaliste Margaux Cintrano
CUISINIER VAJDA ISTOVAN ET LES CRÉATIONS ITALIENNES EN RESTAURANT PRATO
Photo: Sky Photograph Studios
MARGAUX : Commencons, ou êtes vous née et ou avez-vous grandit ? VAJDA: Je suis né à Zizin, un petit village près de Brasov, j’ai grandi aussi à Zizin, et j’ai eu un enfance merveilleux parce que j’étais toujours entoure de ma famille, ma sœur et mes parents, grandsparents et bien sûr mes amis
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MARGAUX : Quand avez-vous découvert que vous vouliez devenir un Cuisinier, Chef ? VAJDA : Depuis que j’étais petit enfant j’ai voulu devenir cuisinier. Quand j’avais 10 ans, mon père travaillait dans un restaurant (en tant que musicien) et j’ai eu l’opportunité d’entrer dans une cuisine. C’est alors que j’ai vu des vrais chefs cuisiniers travailler et j’ai décidé de devenir cuisinier. J’ai commencé à étudier ce métier dans une école professionnelle, ensuite j’ai suivi les cours d’un lycée toujours au profil de tourisme. J’ai suivi un cours de cuisinier spécialisé et un cours de maître dans l’art de la cuisine
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MARGAUX : D’où vient la passion pour la cuisine italienne? VAJDA : Ma passion pour la cuisine italienne a commencé juste après j’ai fini l’école de cuisinier. Mon premier emploi a été dans un restaurant italien, où j’ai connu les ingrédients et les plats typiques de la cuisine italienne. Pendant que je cuisinais des recettes italiennes, je me suis rendu compte que la cuisine italienne me représentait. A présent, après 11 ans d’expérience, je suis chef cuisinier dans un de meilleurs restaurants italiens, méditerranéens de Brașov, Restaurant « PRATO » MARGAUX : Quelles sont les qualités et la formation nécessaires aux jeunes qui désirent devenir cuisiniers ? VAJDA : La gastronomie, en tant que profession, nécessite plusieurs aptitudes, créativité, ingéniosité, talent et beaucoup d’étude et c’est ici qu’on peut parler de la formation professionnelle nécessaire pour développer la qualité d’une profession. En ce qui concerne la formation professionnelle des jeunes, on peut dire qu’il est assez difficile d’aider les jeunes à atteindre les standards européens du point de vue professionnel, parce que la majorité d’écoles de ce domaine qualifie nos jeunes cuisiniers pendant 6 mois au maximum. Cela ne me semble pas juste puisque cette période de temps n’est pas suffisante pour parcourir toutes les étapes de la formation professionnelle.
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MARGAUX : Croyez-vous que les écoles (de gastronomie) ont le même prestige que dans le passé? VAJDA : Pour les écoles de gastronomie du passé, premièrement on ne parle du prestige qu’on parle de formation professionnelle qui était faite pendant 3 ans au minimum, période suffisante pour parcourir toutes les étapes de la formation professionnelle. Si on parle du prestige, cela signifie une autorité morale, notamment une influence que quelqu’un détient, donc pour dire autrement ce prestige ne peut pas exister de nos jours, tout simplement parce que l’école de gastronomie actuelle est plutôt une affaire pour des raisons financières, sans considérer ce qui est le plus important pour les générations à venir MARGAUX : Évoluée au fil des dernières années ? VAJDA : Après avoir fini mes études, mon premier emploi fut dans un restaurant italien, où j’ai appris les techniques de bases de la cuisine italienne. Mené par le désir d’évoluer, j’ai parti pour le sud de la France, où j’ai appris beaucoup d’un chef français. Je peux dire qu’il a été mon mentor, c’est lui qui m’a appris combien sont-ils importants l’organisation, le respect des techniques de préparation et la créativité. Après deux années j’ai retourné à Brașov, où j’ai devenu chef cuisinier dans un de plus bons restaurants de Brașov.
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MARGAUX : Du point de vue de la Romanie, est-elle attirante la possibilité pour nos jeunes cuisiniers de travailler à l’étranger ? VAJDA: Du point de vue de la Roumanie, ou, c’est du moins mon opinion, la possibilité de travailler à l’étranger n’est pas attirante. Mais, la majorité de la jeune génération a été obligée de travailler à l’étranger pour s’assurer une sûreté financière et dû au sérieux des institutions privées MARGAUX : Ou aimeriez-vous faire un voyage gastronomique dream trip et pourquoi ? VAJDA : Pour un voyage de rêve de point de vue gastronomique, je choisirais la Thaïlande, parce que c’est un pays avec une cuisine riche et j’aimerais dégouter le plus grand nombre possible des plats spécifiques. J’aimerais aussi suivre un cours de cuisine thaïlandaise. MARGAUX : Quelle est votre philosophie culinaire italienne? VAJDA : La cuisine italienne est tout d’abord une cuisine fondée sur des ingrédients sains, qui peuvent être utilisés selon le jugement de chaque gastronome, qui a son propre culte de la profession. En parlant de la philosophie culinaire italienne, on peut apporter en discussion un ensemble de notions et d’idées qui reflètent le vrai art culinaire.
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Jordi Roca La vida mas dulce Pastelero 46
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INTERVIEW By: Journaliste Margaux Cintrano
Curioso, divertido, sonriente, de ideas asombrosas, un genio de verdad y super interesante. Millones de Gracias Jordi, por dedicarme tu preciado tiempo.
Photo: El Celler de Can Roca
MARGAUX:
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Qué le inspira para investigar ?
JORDI: La suerte, tenemos ahora es que el éxito nos ha llevado a trabajar mucho y los reuniones multidisciplinares ne las que interviene gente de todos tipo, desde músicos, puede aportar cosas en cocina que nunca imaginábamos, con lo cual, cualquier punto de partida. El hecho de salir de tu zona de confort. MARGAUX: Como definiría en dos palabras a sus hermanos ? JORDI: Tipos geniales ..
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MARGAUX: Chocolate ? JORDI: Fino MARGAUX: Un ingrediente ? JORDI: Azucar MARGAUX: Fogones ? JORDI: Caliente MARGAUX: Ingrediente que nunca usaría ? JORDI: El kiwi, le he cogido mania, no me cae bien y es muy verde MARGAUX: Celler Can Roca ? JORDI: Un sueño MARGAUX: Hay algún aparato, instrumento, maquinaria que no pueda vivir sin el ? JORDI:
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Una Cuchara!
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MARGAUX: Si El Celler Can Roca fuera un postre seria ? JORDI: Anarquia. Es un postre que lo tiene todo, mas que 50 elementos, todos distintos y dispares. Sorbete, helado, crujiente, cremoso, confitura .. Todo junto y un postre cambiante en cada, las cucharas ..
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Dessert Designer
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Photo: Alexander Van Der Brink
Bass Meerveld
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INTERVIEW By: Journaliste Margaux Cintrano MARGAUX: Where were you born and raised ? BAS: 29 November 1980 in Oudewater, een stadje tussen Gouda en Utrecht MARGAUX: losophy ?
Can you tell us, what is your culinary phi-
BAS: Ik vind het belangrijk dat gasten met een tevreden gevoel naar huis gaan als ze gegeten hebben, ik werk het liefst met verse producten van het land en uit de zee, mooie smaakcombinaties verzinnen en uiteindelijk van een natuurproduct een geweldig gerecht maken
Photo: Bass Meerveld
MARGAUX: What are you most inspired by, regarding, the art of plating ? Nature, Art, Architecture and Landscapes ? The four seasons ? Media Advertising ? Your children´s Fantasy Characters and toys ? Photography ?
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BAS: ik vind dat de eerste indruk van een gerecht goed moet zijn, gasten moeten er zin in hebben om het op te eten, ik werk ook graag met seizoens producten, waanneer de aardbeien en frambozen weer komen word ik alweer blij, een inspiratiebron kan ook zijn uit smaken waar ik als kind vroeger blij van werd, bijvoorbeeld knetter chocolade, de zuren die in een lolly zaten, ik probeer daar ook altijd vernieuwend in te zijn en mezelf te blijven ontwikkelen. 59
MARGAUX: Could you tell our audience about your dessert adventures for Spring 2017 ? Which products shall you be focusing on and colors shall command center stage ? BAS: Ik werk graag met rood fruit, bepaalde zuren zoals bergamot / passievrucht en limoen zijn erg populair in mijn keuken, de kleuren rood / geel / groen vind ik mooi om meet e werken, deze kleuren zijn ook mooi te combineren met wit. MARGAUX: Tell us, to what degree of importance do you bring to the aesthetics of a plate presentation ? BAS: Smaak is bij mij het aller belangrijkst in de keuken kort daarachter komt toch wel de presentative, ik den kook dat je gasten kan verplichten om bespaalde smaken te laten proeven door een bepaalde presetatie zoals de Marbre`s die ik maak, meerdere smaken en structuren op elkaar gestapeld zodat de gast dat allemaal in 1 keer proeft
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MARGAUX: Could you tell us about the business side of being a dessert designer and culinary artist ? BAS: Ik denk dat als je zelf elke keer vernieuwend bent en vooruitstrevend dat de gasten naar je toe blijven komen, gasten kunnen je tegenwoordig makkelijker volgen via bijvoorbeeld social media, daar kan je eigenlijk al je visitekaartje achterlaten. MARGAUX: What qualities are necessary to be successful on this side of the hospitality business and what do you find most challenging ? BAS: Mijn eigen authenticiteit en mezelf blijven ontwikkelen zodat hetgeen wat ik doe uniek blijft, elke dag een topprestatie neer zetten en ervoor blijven vechten. MARGAUX: You had begun writing a book around 2015 .. Could you tell us, about this authored work in process ? BAS: ik ben inderdaad bezig geweest met een dessertboek, 50 shades of Sweetness, 50 dessert uiteenlopend van complete desserts die in de professionele keuken gemaakt worden maar ook dessert die gemakkelijk thuis te maken zijn, mooie foto’s erbij, recepten met tekst en uitleg, echter staat dit project nog even stil vanwege de drukte op m’n werk. Hopelijk kan ik dit project weer snel oppakken zodat diegene die geïnteresseerd zijn in mijn patisserie gedachten er een kijkje in kunnen nemen.
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Gianni Bauce
Photo: African Path Safaris
Author & Safari Tour Guide
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ZIMBABWE: viaggio tra meraviglie e sapori
Safari: un viaggio nei segreti dell'Africa, tra il passo silenzioso di un elefante e la maestosità millenaria di un baobab, l'ondeggiare sinuoso della sagoma d'un leone, tra il giallo dell'erba e la risata grottesca di un ippopotamo nel fiume, tra il volo leggiadro dell'aquila e la magia drammatica di un tramonto o il mistero inquietante della notte.
Photo: Gianni Bauce
Qui in Zimbabwe, nel cuore dell'Africa Australe, c'è tutto questo e molto di più. Mistero, magia, fascino e avventura si mescolano nella straordinaria varietà di ambienti pressoché unica nel continente.
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Faccio la guida di safari da sedici anni e mostrare l'Africa condividendone i segreti con i viaggiatori è il mio mestiere. Ma nel mio campo, dopo una giornata di emozioni lungo le piste di terra rossa, tra i grandi animali Africani, mi spetta un altro difficle compito: la cucina. Ogni sera un menù differente, come sempre diverse sono le sorprese che l'Africa ci regala ogni giorno. In questo piccolo viaggio virtuale in cui vi condurrò attraverso lo Zimbabwe, non getteremo soltanto un fugace sguardo sulle meraviglie del paese, ma ci abbandoneremo anche a piccoli assaggi della cucina tipica locale. 67
Scendiamo verso il sud dello Zimbabwe, costeggiando i verdi altopiani orientali ammantati di foreste lussureggianti, dove l'acqua è così limpida e pura che nelle piantagioni ai piedi delle alture cresce il tè migliore della regione. Le rovine di uno dei siti archeologici più affascinanti dell'Africa sono davanti a noi: la mitica città perduta di Great Zimbabwe. Unico monumento in pietra dell'epoca medievale nell'Africa subsahariana, le ciclopiche mura, i corridoi segreti, la torre conica hanno attraversato il tempo per raccontarci dell'antica e splendente civiltà che, nata nel IX secolo, ha dominato la regione per cinquecento anni, scomparendo poi misteriosamente nell'arco di pochi decenni. Uscendo dal grande recinto ellittico di granito, antico luogo di cerimonie e residenza delle mogli predilette del sovrano, sostiamo al villaggio, dove sul fuoco, mescolata dalle donne, bolle già una pentola di sadza, la bianca ed insipida polenta locale che costituisce il principale alimento di ogni Zimbabweano. La si mangia raccogliendola con le mani, appallottolandola con le dita e intingendola nel sugo di pomodoro e fagioli. Accompagna il pollo lessato, duro e filamentoso, ma dal sapore genuino e gustoso perché è un “road runner”, un pollo ruspante. Dopo il pasto leggero affrontiamo l'ascesa all'Acropoli, antica dimora del sovrano, dove il granito dei massi ciclopici si fonde con le opere murarie dell'uomo in un magico connubio, metafora della filosofia africana. La notte stellata ai piedi dell'antica città è una volta di diamanti sotto la quale assopirsi è un privilegio, ma non prima di aver sorseggiato un té bollente di makoni (Fadogia ancylantha), una pianta erbacea locale dalle straordinarie proprietà ricostituenti. 68
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Dalle antiche rovine, la strada ci porta a ponente, verso il Matatbeleland e le magiche colline di granito dorato, pennellato di rosso, grigio e verde dai licheni. Qui, tra le mastodontiche sculture di rocce in bilico che paiono posate in mirabile equilibrio dalla mano d'un gigante artista, trotta fiero il rinoceronte, che pare anch'esso una creatura sopravvissuta alle epoche. Guardandoci attorno scopriamo favolose pitture rupestri millenarie, tra le quali il vento sussurra racconti di epiche cacce, gesta di eroi e antiche battaglie. Così, la sera mentre si avvicendano i racconti intorno al fuoco, nella pentola cuociono strisce di biltong (la carne salata ed essicata secondo l'antica tradizione boera) affogate in una salsa di arachidi: si chiama umhwabha ledobi ed è un piatto tipico della cucina Ndebele, il fiero popolo guerriero che abita la regione e che da sempre considera sacre queste colline. E quando già le fiamme del bivacco si affievoliscono, un buon caffé dei Monti Vumba, sull'altopiano orientale ai confini col Mozambico, è il miglior commiato che la giornata può riservarci.
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Il sole non fa in tempo a sorgere che noi siamo di nuovo in viaggio verso il nord, sulla sabbia morbida dell'estrema propaggine orientale del Kalahari, fino al Parco Nazionale di Hwange, una delle più vaste aree di conservazione dell'Africa. Qui, a pochi chilometri dal campo, un leone maschio sonnecchia nel tardo pomeriggio mentre a breve distanza, la frustata di una coda tra l'erba gialla tradisce la presenza del resto del branco. Alla pozza, gli elefanti affrettano il passo, resi euforici dall'odore dell'acqua e l'aquila urlatrice plana sulla superficie germendo al volo un pesce. All'imbrunire, tornando al campo, incrociamo sei licaoni che trottano lungo la pista, diretti verso chissà quale caccia. Quale miglior conclusione per una giornata nella boscaglia. Questa sera il piatto è una zuppa di butternut, una zucca dalla caratteristica forma a pera, che dopo essere stata sminuzzata, sta bollendo nella pentola fino a diventare una densa crema arricchita con un po' di olio crudo e pepe nero. Segue uno dei cibi più tradiizionali dello Zimbabwe: un piatto di madora, grosse larve di falena (Gonimbrasia belina) abbrustolite e cucinate in soffritto di cipolla e pomodoro, dopo essere state ammorbidite in acqua calda salata. Una vera delizia, al di là dell'aspetto.
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Dopo la boscaglia selvaggia, lassù nell'estremo nord del paese ci attende una delle meraviglie del pianeta. Dove il quarto fiume più lungo dell'Africa, lo Zambesi, si getta in un salto di più di cento metri d'altezza lungo un fronte di quasi due chilometri, si formano le cascate più affascinanti del mondo: le Cascate Vittoria. “Questo è un luogo dove volano gli Angeli” disse stupefatto David Livingstone quando le scoprì nel 1855 e anche oggi, percorrendo il sentiero che si snoda lungo il fronte delle cascate, pare davvero di essere più vicini al Paradiso. Nella frizzante cittadina di Victoria Falls i piccoli negozi si alternano ai mercati di prodotti artigianali ed eleganti locali per turisti si contrappongono ai movimentati club dei sobborghi. Artisti di strada suonano e danzano, mentre tra hotel da sogno e modesti B&B, troviamo ristoranti d'ogni tipo perciò questa sera ci prendiamo una pausa dalla cucina da campo. Accompagnato dal folcloristico spettacolo di percussioni e danze locali, il buffet offre una selezioni di carni di selvaggina pregiate: il kudu, l'impala, l'eland, il facocero dalla saporita carne magra o la coda di coccodrillo, dal sapore tra il pesce ed il pollo. E nell'euforia dell'esuberante notte di “Vic Falls” non può mancare un ottimo vino Sudafricano, come uno Shiraz, un Pinotage o (come viene chiamato qui in Zimbabwe) un “CabSav”, un Cabernet Sauvignon.
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Lasciamo Vic Falls la mattina presto, diretti verso il grande lago Kariba, il piÚ vasto lago artificiale del continente, con i suoi quasi trecento chilometri di lunghezza e ottanta di larghezza, formatosi nel 1966 in seguito alla costruzione della diga sullo Zambesi. Qui la pesca è un'attività fiorente ed il lago attira migliaia di pescatori sportivi ogni anno, bramosi di agganciare un pesce tighe o un persico trota. Quando il sole tramonta sullo specchio immobile del lago, la superficie si tinge d'arancio, punteggiato dalle silouette di scheletri degli alberi annegati. Accampati sulla riva erbosa, dove pascola il bufalo e grugnisce l'ippopotamo, cosa c'è di meglio che gustare un'orata di lago grigliata per cena, dopo uno snak sfizioso a base di croccanti kapenta, i piccoli pesciolini salati ed essicati al sole.
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L'indomani viaggiamo lungo la pista sterrata che attraversa il paese per quasi cinquecento chilometri, dove la modesta agricoltura rurale produce pomodori, patate, cipolle e a settembre inoltrato si può trovare la papaya, che qui prende il nome di popo ed ha un sapore speciale. Seguiamo il corso dello Zambesi e scendiamo infine nella valle, precipitando per più di ottocento metri di dislivello dall'altopiano. Raggiungiamo il mitico fiume e il Parco Nazionale di Mana Pools, patrimonio dell'umanità UNESCO, dove all'ombra delle folte chiome di mogani del Natal, ana tree ed alberi delle salsicce, si muovono leggiadri e silenziosi elefanti dalle zanne enormi, mentre leoni e leopardi cacciano nelle tenebre e branchi di licaoni inseguono le loro prede nella luce incerta del crepuscolo. Bufali neri e minacciosi si spostano in branchi sterminati mentre gli ippopotami contendono ai coccodrilli la sovranità del fiume. Qui tutto è contemporaneamente leggiadro e violento, tutto è magico: se dovessi immaginare il Paradiso Terrestre, lo immaginerei proprio così. Le emozioni che questo remoto angolo di Africa regala quotidianamente sono tali e tante, che la sera ci si sente quasi stremati. E sul fuoco del bivacco, la griglia si scalda alla fiamme danzanti, preparandosi ad accogliere bistecche e salsicce in quello che, adottando un vecchio termine afrikaans, si chiama braai (la grigliata). La carne bovina è di straordinaria qualità qui in Zimbabwe, dove le mandrie pascolano libere nelle vaste praterie; le salsicce, invece (boerwoer), sono prodotte secondo un'antica ricetta sudafricana. E a fine pasto, mentre la luna sorge bianca e rotonda all'orizzonte, deliziamo il palato con un dessert ricavato dalla polpa bianca e spugnosa dei frutti del baobab disciolta nel latte e zuccherata a piacere, per dar vita ad una sorta di yogurt ricco di acido ascorbico e vitamina C. 76
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Il nostro viaggio attraverso il paese è quasi terminato e rientriamo nella capitale, Harare, frizzante metropoli africana che non dorme mai. Uno sguardo ad una mostra d'arte alla National Gallery, una passeggiata ai giardini botanici, una birra fresca in un chiosco lungo la via, un viaggio in minibus, un'occhiata alle sculture in pietra di Masasa, in coda nel traffico all'ombra dei grattacieli del centro. Oggi a pranzo siamo ospiti di Patience, che cucina sadza alla fermata degli autobus nel sobborgo di Hatcliff. Patie ci invita a casa sua, dove cucina la miglior sadza che abbiamo mai assaggiato, accompagnata da muriwa (verdi foglie di rapa tagliate a striscie sottili e cotte in padella) e nyama (la carne bovina stufata). Per noi uomini ha riservato qualcosa di speciale: il mazondo, il piede della vacca, stracotto e riservato agli uomini perché, come vuole la tradizione, possiede proprietà afrodisiache e rinvigorenti. Nelle tazze metalliche beviamo il chibuku, la birra tradizionale, densa e dal pungente sapore acido. Quando cala la notte, la città offre ogni sorta di opzione, dai locali tradizionali ai club più esclusivi e i ristoranti sono così numerosi e vari che ci si perde nella varietà di cucine: indiana, cinese, italiana, greca, eritrea, thailandese, portogherse, turca... ce n'è per ogni gusto, ma noi scegliamo il cibo tradizionale. Così, innaffiati da una fresca Zambezi, la birra locale, assaggiamo la hanga (la faraona) e il matumbu (la trippa) serviti con l'immancabile sadza. Un bicchierino di Amarula, il liquore cremoso a base di frutti di marula (Sclerocarya birrea), e siamo pronti per perderci nell'ammiccante notte di Harare. Note: Naturalmente i menù descritti sono stati creati per seguire la traccia dell'articolo. Nel nostro campo tendato il menù, sia a colazione che a pranzo che a cena, si adatta a gusti ed esigenze dei viaggiatori, soddisfando anche vegetariani, vegani e intolleranti.
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Wuttisak Wuttiamporn Progressive Conceptual Thai Food Designer Restaurant & Lounge Ethos On Phuket Island
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INTERVIEW By: Journaliste Margaux Cintrano
Photo: Wuttisak Wuttiamporn
Chef Wuttisak Wuttiamporn was born and raised in the Tak Province in north western Thailand, bordering the frontier of Myanmar (Burma), 426 kilometres north of Bangkok. Tak, a province steeped in ancient history, was built over 2,000 years ago and reached its peak at the beginning of the 1st century.
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Thai Food Designer, Wuttisak Wuttiamporn´s culinary philosophy, is all about, the balancing of beautiful natural, fresh ingredients in which he creates an enjoyable and unsurpassed dining experience on the island of Phuket. MARGAUX: Tell us about who or what inspired you to study the culinary arts ? WUTTI: What has inspired me most, was a Magazine interview, on Chef Rene Redzepi and an interview on Chef Grant Achatz. 83
MARGAUX: At the moment, what do you deem as the most important creative forms of food design. WUTTI: Shapes and Colours. MARGAUX: Spring & Summer is a very special time of year. Tell us about what products, do you have ready available that you implement into your dishes. WUTTI: Fresh ingredients from the land and the sea and the employing of wild local flower varieties. With a tropical climate, fertile soil, and plentiful water, Phuket Island can grow uncountable floral varieties. At this time, Thailand is the 2nd largest exporter of orchids. Furthermore, both Phuket Island and Thailand´s mainland have diverse geographical features, from the highlands in the north and the river delta tropical lands in the south.
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MARGAUX: If money were no problem, and you could travel to the land of your dreams for gastronomic research, and staging, where would you like to travel to and why ? WUTTI: Money is not problem, however, my work keeps me up to my ears in “busy� . My dream or passion is going to all the local areas of Thailand, to learn more about the indigenious ingredients and how to deverlop and incorporate them into my menus. MARGAUX: What is your culinary philosophy ? WUTTI: My culinary philosophy is all about the balancing of beautiful, natural ingredients and creating an enjoyable, unforgettable and unsurpassed dining experience. MARGAUX: What qualities are necessary to be successful in the restaurant business and what do you find most challenging ? Most rewarding ? WUTTI: Keeping and obtaining the quality standards with providing Value for Money.
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Keiichi Hashimoto
Japanese Food Designer & Restaurateur Restaurant Le Sorcier
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INTERVIEW By: Journaliste Margaux Cintrano
MARGAUX:
Where were you born and raised ?
KEIICHI: Shunan-shi, Yamaguchi, Japan MARGAUX: Could you tell us, what and / or who motivated your interest in the epicurean arts ? KEIICHI: In my youth, I encountered the amazingly extraordinary dessert Photos of Pierre HermĂŠ. This stimulated my profound interest in French Cuisine. MARGAUX: kitchen toys ?
What are your favorite kitchen tools or
Photo: Keiichi Hashimoto
KEIICHI: My favorite servingware are hand made Pottery, created by Ceramic Artisans.
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MARGAUX:
What is your culinary philosophy ?
KEIICHI: I value the components or ingredients, a profound sense of season color sensatons and the impeccable ambience of the Japanese (and if posible, the ambience of Yamaguchi Prefecture). 91
MARGAUX: Could you reveal some of your latest nouvelle gastronomic aspirations for 2017 ? KEIICHI: My new trials are to serve in Japanese teabowls (we call these, “macchawan”). It gives my cuisine more of a Japanese impression however, it’s not Japanese cuisine, that I serve. It is implemented to give a Japnese ambience. My cusine sources and gastronomy are French. MARGAUX: Where would you like to travel to, as a gastronomic dream trip ? KEIICHI: I want to go some areas of my hometown to encounter the charm and enchantment of the local areas. MARGAUX: Tell us about the Eno Gastro bottlings and pairing of wines at Restaurant Le Sorcier ? Do you serve a different wine with each course ? KEIICHI: That's obvious to Pairing wine and Food, however, there's no accounting for tastes. I research our guests’ preferences. The most important thing, is the satisfaction of our customers. MARGAUX: SPRING is an extraordinary time of the year. With this in mind, what do you serve, and and tell about the products you prefer to implement in your menu design ..
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KEIICHI: Yes, Margaux. A very extraordinary time. Trees put forth new leaves and buds, and in Japan we have the pink (colored ) cherry blossom “Sakura” first of all. So we are extraordinarily conscious of the use of the pink palette color and Pale blossom greens.
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MARGAUX: At the moment, what do you deem as the most creative and artistic forms of plate dressage ? KEIICHI: Like driving a car, I feel a season from Nature´s scenery or landscapes or seascapes. MARGAUX: I have noticed that your amazingly sensational servingware that you utilise at Le Sorcier, is predominately earthenware or what we also call “terracotta” or clay. Is this a tendency and / or a preference that you have ? KEIICHI: Yes Margaux but the important thing is not the Material. I value the kind of person who creates that Pottery. In this manner, the earthenware is filled with emotion. All ceramic artists, create this type of connection. MARGAUX: Could you tell our readership, about the business side of being a culinary artist and restaurateur ? What is the most challenging for you ? What qualities are necessary to be successful on this side of the hospitality business ? KEIICHI: I think carefully and put feelings, for me, that's everything.
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Photo: Steve Wolf
Phillip Nordt
Mood food sensations on The Cook Islands 98
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INTERVIEW By: Journaliste Margaux Cintrano
Veteran Chef Phillip Nordt, was born and raised in the autonomous wine region of Landau in der Pfalz, on the German Wine Route, close to the border of Alsace, France. Landau lies just east of Europe´s largest contiguous forest, Palatinate. The combination of European epicurism and The Cook Islands delicateness, that characterises Chef Nordt´s cuisine, luxurious and yet, dazzling delighting with tropical sublimity, that mingles with spring and summer temperatures all year long.
Photo: OTB Jaiah Areai
MARGAUX: What and / or who were the catalysts that stimulated your interest in becoming a Chef ?
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PHILLIP: Dining at Illhaeusern, Cheval Blanc, Crocodile Strasbourg with my family every Sunday during my teens. Our family loved food and we had our own chef at home. She was a first class chef from Hungary and cooked really interesting and tasty dishes. We also had 20 rows of 100 m long orchard, of fruit, vegetables and even an asparagus field, just for our home kitchen use and I sometimes had to go around with a wheelbarrow to give the asparagus away, in our neighboring streets, when I was young.
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MARGAUX: Let´s take a walk down memory lane. Please tell us, where did you study and what were your internships like at that time ? PHILLIP: I studied at College Monte Rosa Montreux and College Rosehill St. Gallen in Switzerland and also, where I also studied, Hotel & Tourism in Vienna, and then I was a management trainee at Vier Jahreszeiten Munich. Many years later, I owned my own Boutique Hotel & tourism company, started up, and opened first class restaurants & lodges and had been the finalist and winner of the Restaurant of the Year at the New Zealand Salon Culinaire, some years later. I received my Bacheor of Arts in the Culinary Arts in Dunedin, New Zealand and had become a Culinary Arts Lecturer. MARGAUX: What is your culinary philosophy ?
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PHILLIP: “MOOD FOOD” EXPERIENCE……… Having grown up as a self-proclaimed gourmet, TASTE for me, is still the most important of our five senses and everything rotates around this. Every chef has common goals like sustainability, local, organic and fresh ingredients, and this also forms part of my philosophy, but furthermore, my philosophy is in research and to find new and interesting local food sources and transform them into culinary stars. Henceforth, finding new combinations and creating a new cuisine is at the very core of my philosophy and that’s what I do in Rarotonga; creating a new island style cuisine with health benefits called “ THE MOOD FOOD” EXPERIENCE, which has been influencing our guests with feel good edible items, specially created drinks, cocktails & wines, which create an amazingly relaxed ambiance amongst the diners, without them noticing. The whole dining experience is supported with low keyed music, lighting and customer service.
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MARGAUX: Spring and Summer are a very special time of year, and with this in mind, what do you serve to distinguish these seasons, and could you, tell us about the products you prefer to implement in your creations during the Green Season and summer ? PHILLIP: “SPRING AND SUMMER CUISINE IN THE SOUTHSEAS” ..
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We create exceptionally extraordinary colourful vegetarian and seafood dishes, for example, various kinds of Ceviche and house made pasta creations etcetra, however, we also have local goat, hogs, pigs and naturally fed chickens / hens, which are implemented on the menus. Ceviche of Koriri (Pearl Meat), is prepared with green onions, fresh fragrant local ginger, fresh habanero chilli, coriander, bush peppers, red scallions, fresh Mango and Miri (fresh bush basil), a combination of different varieties of limes, mint & mustard leaves, and Carpaccio of Octopus, with mustard leaves, a secret “tropical salsa”, and “Ika Mata” fresh tuna with fresh lime, seasalt & freshly pressed coconut cream. Some of the other local dishes include: Escabeche of Maroro (Flying Fish) Tataki of Spring Goat, Matavera Orange Char-grilled local Goat chimmi churro, warm salad of spring vegetables, onion/chilli piperade, goat jus provençal. Sugar cured Bonito, salad of Rapa Rapa & Arugula, melon/red onion/black pepper salsa, A duo of Game Fish, grilled plantain, Okra, snake beans, coloured baby capsicum, citrus sauce & soya beurre noir Chilled Guava Soup, Banana & Lime, Mango, local Vene Vene Sorbets, Pimento Tuille, Coconut Granite Vacherin with tropical fruit sorbets, berry coulis & coconut rum sabayon Pacific Chocolate Soufflee-hand unmoulded, oven roasted mangos, strawberries & their coulis
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MARGAUX:
How and why, the Cook Islands ?
PHILLIP: Since I was young I was dreaming about the South Sea Islands. I travelled the world many times over and through most of the Islands in French Polynesia and the Cook Islands and Rarotonga is the only place I would want to live, it’s the Vortex, the place of happiness and possesses stunningingly amazing beauty. Every Cook Islander is a Gourmet, and the natives, the KUKI AIRANI, are an ancient people of royal descent. They love their food and the food products, versatile, healthy and fresh. I love Fish and Vegetables and experiment a lot with different applications. My family has produced chefs and landowners. We have an Avocado Plantation and are starting to grow our own organic fruits and vegetables. Everything grows here. If you break off a stick from any plant and put it in the ground, in a few weeks, you have got a plant growing. it’s like magic. All seafood products are freshly caught daily and go straight into the kitchen.
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MARGAUX: Please tell us, about your gastronomic aspirations for Spring & Summer 2017. PHILIP: Colours and big fresh Flavours dominate our new spring & summer Menu. We found new produce like sugar cane sprouts, water bamboo leaves, candle nuts, ancient types of indigenous guava fruit, avocado, yams, different kinds of local mustard leaves, spinach and pinapi. The young taro leaves are freshly prepared, and as they are normally, quite large, they are prepared as one would prepare collards or creamed spinach. We use the tiny young leaves and steam them with fresh baby ginger and octopus with fresh renga (turmeric) and local onion shoots. THE LOCAL MARORO FLYING FISH .. AND SHELL FISH VARIETIES .. The local Maroro flying fish, local Koura (fresh water crayfish), and all types of game fish are on the menus and prepared and presented in a light & fresh style. Locally raised young kid, and local pork, compliment the meat-free Spring and Summer cuisine This Spring we are starting to implement a brand new island style cuisine, which had taken us 2 years to develop. Of course its fresh local produce, is constantly renovated and prepared in new ways with a real contemporary twist.
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MARGAUX: Have you authored any books, seminars, courses, blogs, newsletters or a website ? PHILLIP: I had a blog called “the truffelroom”, with sort of a hospality review panel and an experimental publishing site for chapters of my book. I had huge amounts of people responding and commenting, but I am just too busy to dedicate my time to it and stopped at Rarotonga, a whole new chapter and I decided to focus on FB, more, instead of my blog… I am working on a culinary immigrant story (my Biography/Cookbook) which spans 30 years of culinary development in New Zealand and the Pacific. I am a guest speaker at Food Design Seminars & lecture on various aspects of Pacific Cuisine. I am also writing a fishing column for Escape Magazine, designed to emphasize on using traditional and alternative preparation methods of the fish caught.
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MARGAUX: If you could take one month to travel to any gastronomic dream destination for you, where would you travel to and why ? PHILLIP: I am tempted to say it would be Japan again, as I did a stint there in the 80’s and I learned some of the most important lessons about cuisine and its preparation, flavours and presentating , but it is going to be France, back to where it all began and I love France, especially Southern France, its people, terrain, cuisine and its wines. After all my studies, French Mediterranean gastronomy is still my passion and influences of its epicurism can be easily seen in my island style cuisine. I have an addiction and affinity to the French way of life. This starts in the morning with croissants or a baguette and French roasted espresso from a street café while watching life go by and continues into the afternoon with a sip of a dry Muscat or 51 Pastis, continuing on to Amuses Boûches or Tapas, followed by flavorsome dishes al fresco. Watching the way chefs work in their kitchens, the wonderful rustic flavours of dishes like “gambas a la brochette”, grenouille provençal or just a bouillabaisse made at the last minute at the table and gueridon dishes. There are places I want to re-visit like the Cote d’Azure, Cuisinier Alain Ducasse, a favourite as well as some of the smaller back country auberges are on the agenda to re-visit. Yes its France for sure ..
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Stam Halfmike
Gold Medal Award For The Best Youngest In The European Union 2016
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INTERVIEW By: Journaliste Margaux Cintrano
Chef Stam Halfmike was born and raised in Rhodes, Greece. Rhodes, is located in the northern Aegean Sea and it is the largest island of the region. Possessing a crucial geographical position, Rhodes has uncountable culinary influences from the both the east and the west. The weather, is predominately temperate and sunny all the time, and henceforth, provides plenty of fresh ingredients. Moreover, the sea is the treasure box of Rhodes. Chef Halfmike grew up tasting these gifts of the Mediterranean.
Photo: Harry Zampetoulas
Margaux: Who or what inspired you to study the culinary arts ?
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Stam: Well, I grew up in a family of Chefs and from a very young age, I felt the inspiration that I needed to begin my studies in the culinary arts. I have numerous memories from my childhood, cooking with family and for my family. I remember my Grandfather, trying to teach me how to respect every ingredient that you come into contact with and how to purchase and / or pick the best ingredients.
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Margaux: What is your culinary philosophy? Stam: For me, it´s really about the products and those ingredients that are coming from our farmers, our fishermen, our gardeners, our foragers and how quintessential those individuals are in what we do and what we are able to prepare for our guests or diners. Without these key players, we are just “cooks”. My philosophy on the culinary arts is the importance of the story behind every plate I create. I ask myself, what is the purpose of this plate ? Margaux: Tell us, to what degree of importance, do you bring to the aesthetics of a plate presentation ? Stam: The relationship between our plate and the clients starts with the presentation, the visual. The presentation is the 1st impression that we give our guests. What I try to do is present a message and our atmosphere for our clients.
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Margaux: Spring and Summer are a very special time of year, and with this in mind, what do you serve and could you tell us about the products you prefer to implement in your creations during this season ? Stam: I love using flowers in many textures. Each species has a different aroma or fragrance and that makes each plate more dazzling dynamic . Candied beetroot is also on top of my carte. Margaux: What do you find most challenging in your profession ? Stam: At the moment, I want to learn how to prepare fresh pasta and noodles. Margaux: I have read, that you were highly honored as the Youngest 2016 Chef in the European Union to merit the Gold Medal Award for the Top 2016 Youngest Chef in the E.U. Could you tell us, about your experience ? Stam: It was one of the best experiences I have ever had professionally. It was extremely important for my career, as I won for my Region and my Country, with a traditional plate that comes from Rhodes, and possesses a history that dates back hundreds of years. It was an amazing opportunity. Rhodes shall be the Gastronomic Region of the E.U. for 2019.
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Margaux: What are some of your gastronomic projects for 2017 ? Stam: Just recently, I was preparing for an event at the James Beard Foundation in New York City. Also, as the Regional Chef Ambassador, I run projects that promote local food cultures as an essential source of new ideas, and innovative food products along with culinary experiences, support initiatives that re-connect the rural and the urban environments and assists in stimulating debates on the importance of traditional natural agricultural and food production methods. Margaux: Last but not least, where would you like to travel to, as a gastronomic dream trip and why ? Stam: Brazil. I am extraordinarily curious to taste all the local indigenious and Amazonian ingredients. I am also a grand enthusiast of Food Designer Alex Atala ..
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Harry Zampetoulas
Photo: Letteris Damiandis
Architectural & Interior Design Photographer & His Hellenic Love For Food Photography
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INTERVIEW By: Journaliste Margaux Cintrano
Photo: Harry Zampetoulas
Rhodes, native Photographer Harry Zampetoulas, was born and raised on the island of Rhodes, Greece.
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He started the hobby of photography back in the 1980s, as a Sports Photographer, specialising in Basketball. In 2013, he had mentioned, he saw some extraordinary architecture and had become totally immersed and inspired in the photographic sector of Architectural Photography. Photographer Harry told me, that the most quintessential element of photography is the lighting and illumination. 127
He futher stated, that when light falls on the subject that is to be photographed, what he looks for is to create a “third dimension” and to be able to see the textures of the elements that the Chef has prepared that he is photographing. He also told me, that he makes very few changes on the plate presentations that Chefs create. The only thing he seeks is balance on the objects and color equilibrium as much as possible. To move on, Photographer Harry´s main photographic profession is Architectural and Interior design photography.
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He further indicated, that he does not follow trends. He is a trend setter. The utmost importance for Phographer Harry are quality photographs to the maximum possible. I had enquired which photographic equipment, does Photographer Harry use. His reply was, at this time, “I am using Nikon D810, camera and various lenses. The Nikon D810 produces 36.3 MPix images�. Thank you very much for all your collaboration.
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Roberto Cortez
Conceptual food & dessert designer
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INTERVIEW By: Journaliste Margaux Cintrano
MARGAUX: Let´s begin with, where were you born and raised ? ROBERTO: El Paso, Texas, U.S A
Photo: Roberto Cortez
MARGAUX: Could you tell our readership, what or who inspired you to study the culinary arts, and where did you attend culinary institute ? ROBERTO: I actually wanted to be a guitar player in a rock band. But I had a severe case of tendonitis in my forearm and I couldn’t play anymore. I then saw a commercial on tv for a culinary school. It looked interesting so I signed up. I knew on day one that I wanted to be a chef for the rest of my life. This was in Austin Texas. I shortly quit that school and attended Le Cordon Bleu in Ottawa Canada. I then proceeded to do the rest of my training in France and Spain.
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MARGAUX: What is your culinary philosophy ? ROBERTO: Always give diners more than they expect. I mean this in every sense of our ingredients, technique, attention to detail and flavors.
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MARGAUX: If you could serve only one conceptual Spring & Summer carte for lunch, for a group of four or six close friends, what would you serve ? ROBERTO: My close friends have never eaten in France like I have. I would keep it simple and rustic. So I would make them a Provençal southern French style lunch. * Artichokes barigoule ala Riviera * Turbot with juices of a roast chicken, herbs, peas, zucchini, squash blossoms, lardons, fennel, caramelized shallots and morels * Lemon Peel ice cream with lavender milk MARGAUX: Tell us, to what degree of importance do you bring to the aesthetics of a plate presentation ? ROBERTO: Extremely important in the sense that each dish I make has it’s own concept. Part of it’s story is the final presentation. This solidifies the concept with the diner. MARGAUX: Spring is a very extraordinary time of the year, and with this in mind, what do you serve and tell us about the products you prefer to implement in your creations during the Spring Green Season ? ROBERTO: Wild scallions, morels, white asparagus, fave beans, rhubarb
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MARGAUX: Could you tell us, a little bit about the book that you are almost finished with ? ROBERTO: It is my journey and story of 12 desserts based on 12 emotions. I’ve been fascinated with the perspective of how flavors and colors affect us. It has been a 7 year study and translation into flavor and photography as well. I didn’t want to do a cookbook, this is a pure conceptual art book. Meant for reflection, study, appreciation and inspiration. MARGAUX: What qualities are necessary in your viewpoint, to be a success in the hospitality business and what do you find most challenging ? ROBERTO: Personal attention to everything. Especially the people we feed and entertain. If they feel well taken care of, they will never forget that. MARGAUX: Tell us about your gastronomic dream trip and why you have chosen this specific region ? ROBERTO: Right now, I would have to say Sweden and the Scandinavian region. I have never been to this part of the world and many of it’s culinary offerings have great allure to me. I hope to go this year! MARGAUX: An every day staple in your refrigerator ? ROBERTO: Edmond Fallet Mustard MARGAUX: Your latest kitchen toy / tool ? ROBERTO: My custom made knives from Bryan Raquin from France. Amazing.
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Paolo Barichella 140
Milano Based Food Designer Takes Food Design To New Heights 141
INTERVIEW By: Journaliste Margaux Cintrano
Photo: L’ Bocuse D’or
MARGAUX: Where were you born and raised ?
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PAOLO: I was born in Milan, and was educated and developed my career, in Milan, as Industrial Designer, an activity that I am currently performing. In 2002, I chose to specialize in Food Design, particularly in the contexts of surrounding Food at 360 degrees. Currently I am working as a Food Designer throughout Italy and I often travel abroad.
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MARGAUX: Could you tell us, what or who inspired you to study business strategies and management in addition to food designing ? Please tell us about your mentors, coaches and courses ..
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PAOLO:In 2002, when I started my own Food Design Studio, I had to conduct studies on the basics in design, which are fundamental to any designer starting his own Food projecting business. For a designer, being fully knowledgeable about technology is a “Must”, so for 2 years I studied Industrial Design and Business. I had become accustomed to “Sensorial Physiology related to Food, to Food Technology and Cooking Techniques”. I started my Food profession collaborating with Roberto Carcangiu, currently, The Chairman of the Professional Association of Italian Chefs, with whom I also, have a very special friendship; among other maestros, that I have also collaborated with, for example, Author, Professor and Executive Pastry Chef Gianluca Fusto. In the Food Design framework, I have had the possibilities to meet and engage with some of the most renowned national and international professionals, following several international Pastry, Gelateria (Icecream Products) Events, as well as The Bocuse d’Or contests, in which I had contributed to the winning of several of these competitions. For example, in 2006 I assisted, as a designer, the Italian Icecream World Cup competition. In the meantime, I have also been involved in projects collaborating with personalities such as Enrico Crippa, Paolo Lopriore, Luigi Biasetto, Luca Mannori, Pierpaolo Magni and others, all relevant figures in my field. Business and Finance are also among my interests, that have emerged out of necessity when I started my entrepreneurial activities, while enhancing my own business model and adjusting it to entrepreneurial contexts. For such purposes, I‘ve moved from pure consultancy to ownership of the projects that I’ve considered of interest. Currently, I am participant owner in 5 different businesses involving activities related to Food Design that I’ve also developed.
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MARGAUX: Where would you like to travel to as a professional project trip and why ? PAOLO: Actually, since I’ve started my business in 2002, I have been travelling extensively in various parts of the world. One of my recent and very stimulating trips was to Bahrain, for a project regarding the opening of a restaurant chain based on a pasta lounge concept. MARGAUX: Have you authored any books, articles, websites, blogs, and / published any magazines ?
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PAOLO:Being the professional that has theorized Food Design in Italy already in 2002, has given me the chance to dedicate myself to various areas requiring the application of my Food Design expertise. In particular, I have developed consulting and entrepreneurial activities within applied Food Design in business. During my career so far I have had the honor to develop several successful concepts for food retail formats, products and product lines for food and food consumption. I have written articles and books on Food Design and participated at various international conferences and events. I am also a lecturer in Food Design at several Italian and international academic institutions. Additionally, I have been on the Food Design Jury of several international food, pastry and ice-cream competitions and furthermore, I am often a testimonial for companies, events, TV shows and jury prizes. Having been an Advisor for major clients and industrial groups, as mentioned, I am often personally involved in global projects. During my career, editorial has been one of the quintessential activities where I have had the opportunity to express myself as a Food Designer and have published two volumes: One titled “La Cucina Efficace” (English: “Effective Cooking”), which presents a particular cooking methodology that I elaborated on); and a booklet inserted into the Coffee Design Kit, presenting all my special recipes for making special coffees. At the same time, within my positioning as an industry expert, I have given my contributions related to the world of Food Design to numerous magazines and web editors. Currently, in between my projects, I am busy writing my book on Food Design, which should be out in 2017. 147
MARGAUX: If you could provide consultatory advice to a group of top notch Michelin star chefs, who would you like to provide consultancy for ? PAOLO: Actually, as mentioned before, during my activities, I have had several collaborations with numerous top restaurant chefs and pastry chefs. Among my recent projects, I am currently developing a tray product line for small food formats, together with Three Michelin Star Food Designer Enrico Crippa, of Ristorante Piazza Duomo di Alba, 3 Michelin stars. I can say that he is a real Professional (with a capital P), possessing real talent, sensitivity and also humbleness, all traits that only real professionals possess. MARGAUX: Tell us about the “kits” you have designed .. PAOLO: The kit is among one of the things, that stimulate me the most. They are real and concrete food solutions. I have developed several such systems: from “My Personal Party Kit”, to “Clippy + Picker”, that have been particularly successful, no doubt, being the Coffee Design Kit produced by Mepra (SRL??). Coffee Design Kit is composed of an elegant box containing the refined design tools to create recipes using common tools, in a very quick way but at the same time possessing great impact. Among the instruments included in the box you can find a book with a series of short, simple and effective coffee-based recipes made using tools that are all normally found in every supermarket; useful ideas to make special coffees or fresh desserts to accompany the pleasant coffee ritual. All preparations are designed and explained so that it is possible to replicate in a very quick and easy way, yet having great effects, to be enjoyed in pleasant environments, to impress close people and clients. It is a valid tool for giving an edge to the espresso machine and make the most of its possibilities. 148
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The Kit also presents a series of useful tips on how to become skilled pastry chefs using a few simple tricks, common tools and ingredients normally found at home or in any supermarket. Another Kit that has given me a lot of satisfaction, is the Effective Cooking Box: a system that allows you to enjoy the pleasure of cooking when there is time, desire and passion, for example during weekends; all in order to enjoy its benefits when these factors do not easily fit in the daily life, especially during the week when returning late from work. This system is based on the use of ingredients of excellence yet of immediate availability and high practicality, cooked with unique practices and efficient methodologies, leveraging common technologies that simplify the work in the kitchen. I have theorized this system in order to meet the demands of contemporary society in terms to the approach to food at home. The Effective Cooking Techniques allow you to obtain the best results with the least effort, thanks to a set of procedures and methodologies that make cooking more effective and efficient. This box contains a book, a silicone mold, the necessary tools and information to help you produce amazing results using raw materials readily available and approachable in terms of processing, through commonly used tools that are nowadays present in all homes.
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MARGAUX: Could you reveal some of your aspirations for 2017 ? PAOLO: My greatest aspiration is that the awareness and knowledge about Food Design be correctly perceived by the collective imagination. I aim to have an increasingly active role in the profession that I’ve been developing, a profession that is often difficult to understand in all its complexity , both by customers and observers. MARGAUX: At the moment, what do you deem as the most creatively artistic forms of plate dressage and why? PAOLO: “I am always very careful in separating the concepts of Design, Style, Art, Technique and Creativity”. These concepts are often understood in a confusing manner by people, which may lead to an incorrect perception of things. The components that can describe my way of approaching Design are basically three: “Essentialism, Functionalism and Minimalism”. “With regard to styling I cannot stand unnecessary or excessive decorations and I am always in search for compositional and geometric perfection”. As Food Designer, I project effective solutions for contexts in which Food is consumed. Much of my work takes place outside the dishes and very far from restaurant consumer circumstances.
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MARGAUX: What is your culinary philosophy? PAOLO: Without a doubt the effectiveness of food solutions. Then, the design must be first and foremost, be totally visually effective. When I started the Food Design business 15 years ago, I thoroughly studied the technological aspects of the matter, which addressed the Molecular Gastronomy. That was the beginning, and now it is a well-established philosophy of approach to international cuisine. Unfortunately some very strong lobbies in Italy related to the old culinary traditions have managed to impede its use and understanding of its success, therefore I had to pursue several projects in this regard outside Italy. I have always found in the Molecular Gastronomy the scientific basis for controlling and making reproducible procedures in the Food sector, and I find that the major difference between a Chef and a Food Designer resides in exactly this aspect. Whilst the Chef elaborates on the sensitivity to create exciting recipes, the Food Designer is responsible for making all creative procedures reproducible.
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MARGAUX: Tell us, about some of the projects in which you had done the research and development for .. PAOLO: Difficult to choose among almost a hundred projects that have, in common the passion that I put into each of them, however, I can name some of those who perhaps are more distinguished for me and the research and development phase applied to the real case: The re-structuring of the fleet buffet MSC Cruises, the concept design of Cioccolati Italiani format, the development of the project's visual merchandising manual for Autogrill Bistrot, the PanB concept, the development of the Leggende Italiane project, a draft Food concept that I have created based on the Italian lifestyle. Through the concept, restaurants that will be open in Italy, Leggende Italiane aims to tell the world that Italy is not only about the classic stereotypes, instead it has always been synonymous of Elegance, Class, Style, Buongusto, Buonvivere, applied by great legends in fields such as Culture, Art, Fashion, Food and Design. MARGAUX: What qualities are necessary to be successful in your business profession and what do you find most challenging ? I would say certainly a good dose of passion and experience, combined with a global vision and real determination to achieve goals. The major challenges are always about the level of detail and knowledge required relative to the large number of matters and solution finding that come into play when working on a food product or project. MARGAUX: My, extraordinarily fascinating. Thank you once again for all your time and the amazingly spectacular interview .. All our best wishes ..
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