HOG 040 (May 2017)

2017

HOG速 MAGAZINE CANADA

MAY

CANADIAN EDITION |

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URBAN INSPIRATION |

N E W

H A R L E Y- D AV I D S O N速

S T R E E T

R O D速

PA C I F I C

N O R T H W E S T

T R I

G L I D E速 T R I P

HOG.COM

$6.99CAN

EVERY RIDE IS A CHANCE TO WIN. †

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Complete a Ride or Route Challenge, visit a Point of Interest, or visit a Harley-Davidson® Dealership.

Visit a Harley-Davidson® Test Our Metal™ Event.

Complete and repeat to earn chances of winning the grand prize; a Street Glide® Special with limited edition 100 Years of Harley-Davidson® in Canada paint kit.

Contest ends July 29, 2017. †NO PURCHASE NECESSARY. Open January 6, 2017 to July 29, 2017, to legal residents of Canada who have reached the age of majority in their jurisdiction of residence and have a current motorcycle licence valid for operation in their jurisdiction of residence as of the date of prize fulfillment. 500 secondary prizes available to be won, each consisting of one (1) genuine H-D merchandise prize pack (approx. value $50 each).

One (1) grand prize available to be won by secondary prize winners: one (1) Harley-Davidson® Street Glide Special Motorcycle with a limited edition 100 Years of Harley-Davidson in Canada paint kit (approx. value $28,000). Odds of winning depend on number of eligible entries received and skill in accruing points. Math-skill test and App registration required. Rules: https://pages.m.harley-davidson.ca/H-D100challenge.

Google Play and the Google Play logo are trademarks of Google Inc. Apple and the Apple logo are trademarks of Apple Inc., registered in the U.S. and other countries. App Store is a service mark of Apple Inc., registered in the U.S. and other countries. ©2017 H-D or its Affiliates. H-D, Harley, Harley-Davidson and the Bar & Shield Logo are among the trademarks of H-D U.S.A., LLC.

Ride hard. Rest easy.

Rider-exclusive discounts of 10% or more. Earn bonus points toward free stays.* Preferred bike parking and free bike washing stations at 1,600** Rider-Friendly® Best Western hotels worldwide.

To sign up for Best Western Ride Rewards® or book a stay, visit bestwestern.com/hog or call 1-888-292-2453.

*Restrictions apply. See bestwesternrewards.com for complete details. **Number is approximate and may fluctuate.

Each Best Western® branded hotel is independently owned and operated. Harley-Davidson, Harley, H-D, the Bar & Shield Logo, and the H.O.G. Logo are among the trademarks of H-D U.S.A., LLC. Best Western and the Best Western marks are service marks or registered service marks of Best Western International, Inc. ©2016 Best Western International, Inc. All rights reserved.

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INSIDE

26 42 Minimalist Mantra

FEATURES 26 Purple Mountain Majesties Taking in Washington State’s natural beauty on the way to the Pacific Northwest HOG® Rally.

The new range of H-D® Parts & Accessories achieves maximum effect with minimal extras.

44 Beyond the Beach Travelling off the beaten path in San Diego, California.

32 Urban Inspiration The new Harley-Davidson® Street Rod® motorcycle is designed to prevail in urban battle.

36 Trikes of Glory

50 A Portland Jewel Heidi Lieberman gets inspiration for her art while riding the Oregon countryside on her Sportster® motorcycle.

Three days on three wheels: Trying out a Tri Glide® model with the New Smyrna Beach HOG Chapter.

ON THE COVER

The Harley-Davidson® Street Rod® has been added to the Harley-Davidson Street® model family.

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50 6 Intake 10 Opening Shots

THE WORD 15 HD News Notes from the world of Harley.

18 Gear The latest accessories for you.

20 Next Ride Rolling along the Sea to Sky Highway in Vancouver.

21 2017 HOG® Rallies An overview of upcoming rallies in 2017.

24 Spotlight Mark Atkins is at the forefront of the new wave of hooligan racing.

EXHAUST 54 Enthusiasts Readers and riders share pictures and stories.

60 Between the Lines Learn from readers’ riding mistakes.

62 H-D Museum Celebrating 60 years of Sportster® motorcycles.

64 150 Dollar Rides Taking on the twisties of California’s Ortega Highway.

66 Last Stop 44

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Quebec by the Sea: A ride around the Gaspé Peninsula.

SOUND OFF – LOUD AND PROUD.

INTAKE FROM THE EDITOR

FEEDBACK

Roughing It

Not So Deplorable

I

f your idea of roughing it on a motorcycle

trip is staying at a hotel with less than a three-star rating, you can probably stop reading right now because I’m going to make my case for getting back to the basics of motorcycle camping.

Anyone who grew up during the heyday of biker movies or remembers David Mann’s iconic illustrations in Easyriders magazine recognizes the romantic image of the lone rider riding off into the sunset, with a bedroll strapped to the handlebar. Like a modern-day cowboy on a steel horse, this image has become part of the iconography of riding, and today we see a lot of young riders on retro-style bikes emulating that lifestyle.

Motorcycling is, by its very nature, a minimalist endeavour that fits well with the practice of lightweight camping or backpacking. On a motorcycle, space is at a minimum, and every piece of gear needs to pull its own weight, so you have to be picky when selecting the equipment to bring along on a ride. Being a self-contained unit – ready to head off toward the horizon in any direction – with no map, clock or schedule is also a powerful idea that motivates many of us to plan for the next ride, even if our destination is just around the corner.

I’ve only camped out overnight on motorcycle trips a few times over the years, but one of my favourite memories came during a ride to eastern Minnesota a few years back. I rolled into the campground, spread a tarp on the ground, placed my bike tires over one edge, staked it down in the middle, and wrapped the other end up over the bike and bungee-corded it down. I threw my sleeping bag into the space beside the bike and slept like a baby. It even rained that night, and I stayed perfectly dry in my impromptu lean-to, while some people in real tents got wet!

When I first heard that the Full Throttle Saloon and Pappy Hoel Campground and Resort was to become the official campground of HOG® during the Sturgis Motorcycle Rally this year (see page 16), I blurted out in a meeting, “I’ll camp there!” Somebody looked at me like I was crazy, until I clarified: “Probably not in a tent. They have RVs and cabins, too.”

So this year, after many years of staying in a nice high-rise hotel in downtown Rapid City during the rally, I’m planning to be closer to the action up in Sturgis.

And I think I will bring a tent. Even if it’s just for one night.

Please think about joining me, and if you have any great stories about camping to share, send them to hogmagazine.ca@harley-davidson.com.

MATT KING

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I just received the February issue of HOG® Magazine Canada. I have enjoyed this magazine for over 16 years. I would like to comment on the “From the Editor” column. Although you stated the column is not political, the entire column is political. There is no need to use metaphors or comparisons to the American Election or anything to do with politics. I take great offence to the statement, “The only deplorables are the poor unfortunate folks who’ve never experienced the joy of riding in the first place.” I have many friends that are neither poor nor unfortunate, and are certainly not deplorable. They may have chosen not to ride or are unable to ride a motorcycle. You have chosen your words with an unbecoming degree of temerity. I am truly disappointed by your column.

PETER FENNELL

Calgary, Alberta

Tricks for Staying Fresh and Alert Though I don’t always do two things well at one time, I find that I can ride and chew gum simultaneously. Maybe it’s just that sweetness, but it keeps me alert. I also find that singing loudly helps me keep the cobwebs at bay, while a full-face helmet keeps the rest of the world from knowing that I’m tone deaf and don’t know the words.

JEFE SMITH

Carlsbad, California

Three is a Magic Number I’ve been riding since I was 14, and I’m on bike number 12 now. Recently I had to trade my 2012 Limited for a

trike. My wife rides with me and loves it – it’s a really nice ride. I’ve ridden the “Dragon” on it. I miss leaning into the curves sometimes, but I never was a board dragger. I enjoy HOG® Magazine but would like a few more articles on trikes, as there are more and more of those bikes out there. Nothing better than a Harley® any day of the week.

RONNIE D.

Bay Minette, Alabama We hope you’ll enjoy Glen Abbott’s trike article on pages 36–40. –Ed

Who Needs a Car? I’m all about getting around town, and my Iron 883™ is nimble enough to cruise the city streets. I don’t even own a car – I just ride. I’m not about going to rallies, it’s not my scene. Plus, exploring all of the strange public washrooms of the world is not my idea of a good time.

BOBBY P.

Canada

On the Edge of My Seat I was delighted to read Glen Abbott’s “Texas Travels” article in the February issue. In April 2014, I was part of the group from Murfreesboro that visited Barney Smith and his Toilet Seat Art Museum that Glen mentioned in his article. Teresa, one of our chapter members, suggested we stop there on the way to San Antonio. There were 14 riders, and most of us thought Teresa was nuts. However, now we would all agree that seeing Barney and his museum was the highlight of the trip – Americana at its best! He was such a gentleman and was thrilled to have so many Harley® motorcycles parked outside of his home. To have him do a toilet seat for our chapter was the best!

progressive fork springs. Living in the UK at the time, I soon found that at just about every roundabout, I was grinding metal. I had removed too much clearance. In Canada, we seldom get wear across the tread of the tires, as the roads are seldom twisty enough, but in the UK it was dangerous. I bought progressive shocks an inch longer. My tire still looked good against the rear fender, but I could sweep through roundabouts and corners without solid metal on tarmac. My bike is an absolute joy to own now, and handles and looks great for a 17-year-old machine, but being overly aggressive with the shocks was definitely a mistake. I suggest you do your homework first.

RICHARD DIXON

DAVE MILLER

Canada

Murfreesboro, Tennessee

A Trip Down Memory Lane Do Your Homework I once felt there was too much space between the tire and fender on my 1999 FXDX. So, I bought shorter progressive rear shocks and lower

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I really enjoyed reading about H-D and the Shriners in the February issue. I was 14 in 1958 and lived across the street from the Northland Center, the first mall in Michigan. I remember how excited I

INTAKE

Love at First Sight

was when Shriners would show up in the mall lot to practice parade riding. I watched their beautiful Harley® motorcycles perform with precision. It must have had a lasting effect because I got my first H-D® Sportster® bike when I left the military in 1970. I still love riding and just picked up my 2017 Softail® Breakout.®

The White Horse Tavern in Newport has been in operation since 1673. And, finally, the Ocean Mist in Matunuck is (arguably) the best dive bar on the water.

JIM DANIELS

Location, Location, Location

Algonac, Michigan

As a proud member of the United States Navy Seabees, I would like to point out a mistake in the February issue [Next Ride] concerning where the Construction Battalions were stationed in Rhode Island. In the early 1970s, I was stationed in Davisville, right off of Post Road. Quonset Point was a naval air station nearby.

After owning a 2010 Gold Wing, I was searching for something more in a motorcycle. I’d heard about HarleyDavidson, but I wanted to steer clear based on reports from older bikers regarding reliability. I’m glad I didn’t listen to them. I saw the 2017 Road Glide model with the Milwaukee-Eight™ 107 engine and fell in love at first test ride.

The design, power and speed of the shark struck me so hard that I bought one right after. I’ve been delighted beyond all expectations. I was like a kid in a candy store. I’m unbelievably impressed and flabbergasted at the design, technology and fun of the Road Glide motorcycle.

Thank you for allowing me to fall in love again!

JOE HALL

KARL BRENNA

Via email

Orlando, Florida

You are correct, sir, and thank you for your service. –Ed

Another Cool Daddy

An Ocean State of Mind I loved your Next Ride piece on Rhode Island and South County in the last issue of HOG® Magazine. I’m a Connecticut Yankee, but RI is where I gravitate to when the weather and my mind demand outdoor time. There are a couple of interesting aspects of “The Ocean State” that would have fit nicely into the article.

First, it’s officially the “State of Rhode Island and Providence Plantations.”

Second, it’s the home of what’s reputed to be the oldest tavern building in the U.S.:

HIRAM KELSEY

Southington, Connecticut

David Gail’s picture of his father in the Enthusiasts section of the February issue motivated me to send in this picture of my dad, Art Scharte, doing his best James Dean impression on his 1959 HarleyDavidson® Duo Glide. He also has four sons who ride, and although we try, we know we could never be that cool. In my garage I have a 2011 Road Glide® Ultra, a 2003 Fat Boy,® and a 1980 FXEF [Fat Bob®] model, and there are many local bike nights when all three of my cycles are in attendance.

MICHAEL SCHARTE

Superior, Wisconsin

WHAT’S YOUR STORY? We welcome your letters, photos and riding stories. Please email yours to hogmagazine.ca@harley-davidson. com or mail them to HOG® Magazine Canada, 100 New Park Place, Suite 330, Vaughan, Ontario, L4K 0H9. Please include your name, address and telephone number and/or email address. All submissions become property of HarleyDavidson®. We reserve the right to edit submissions for length and content.

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FROM HARLEY-DAVIDSON CANADA

A Canadian Summer for the Ages adies and gentlemen, it’s time to start your engines. We have survived yet another epic Canadian winter, one where we saw some unseasonably mild moments in Ontario and Quebec, and where riders in those provinces enjoyed from afar the unexpected snowfalls and winter temps in B.C., whose typical long riding season has forever kept the rest of us envious. (Atlantic Canada – we hope you’ve dug yourself out of your last snowbank by the time this issue reaches your mailboxes.)

HOG® Officer Training (HOT) has wrapped for another season, dovetailing perfectly with the reunifying of chapters across the country, as tends to happen this time of year. This time around we made a call out to officers to join the HOT session in Buffalo in an attempt to gather as many Canadian attendees as we could. The success was beyond impressive – more Canadian HOG officers alongside more H-D dealers than HOT has ever experienced before.

The “no boundaries” theme at the HOT event focused on refreshing officers on how and why new riders join our chapters.

We WANT new ideas, new routes, new energies, more friends to ride with. These are the very contributions that keep HOG fresh and fun for everyone.

It seems simple, but after years of being a member, it can be easy to fall into routine, and forget what our awesome world can look like to newcomers. Remind yourself what it was like to be in their boots.

Maybe you were new to motorcycling and just looking for some like-minded adventurers to burn some miles with. Maybe you were looking to learn how to ride in a group – and who better to turn to than the world’s first social network? Whatever it was, the way you were introduced to HOG probably had a large impact on your perception of the Official Riding Club of Harley-Davidson, and maybe even why you’re still with us today. Be sure to consider that

L

when bringing in your next new chapter member.

Buffalo played host to some 800 attendees from all across North America, Brazil and Australia. It was the perfect place to introduce our newest team members: Western Regional Director Jennifer Smith and Ontario Regional Director Suzie Wensley. Brad Carvery will continue as Prairie Regional Director, Michel Roy as Quebec Regional Director and Keith Richard as Atlantic Regional Director.

After two years with the team, Len Bowman, past Western Regional Director, has moved on to other exciting adventures, and we will bid farewell to Vern Wilson, Ontario Regional Director, at the end of June. After 10-plus years as Regional Director, Vern will be enjoying retirement in the Great White North and will surely be missed by many after his tireless hours worked and multiple miles ridden in support of chapters across the province. Many thanks to you both for being part of the team. We wish you the very best!

We hope you’ve had some inspiration from the pages of HOG® Magazine Canada over the winter months and are now planning your adventures for the riding season.

Registration for all 2017 Canadian HOG rallies is now open. The Western, Prairie, National and Quebec rallies (see page 21) are locked, loaded and ready to entertain and enthuse members, while providing a great opportunity to spend quality time – on and off the bike – with like-minded riders. The National Rally in Ottawa (July 27–29) is filling up quickly, so if heading to the nation’s capital is on your to-do list of rides this summer, you’d best hurry!

It is going to be an epic summer – one for the ages. We’ll see you out there.

KAREN MAYBERRY

Lead, Consumer Experience and Public Relations Harley-Davidson Canada

Editor in Chief

MATT KING Design and Production ARCHANT DIALOGUE • Publishing and Content Director ZOË FRANCIS-COX • Creative Director JON LILLEY Copyeditors MATT COLLEY & AMY REID • Editorial Assistant CIARA JACK • Art Director RICHARD BERRY • Production Designers LUCY PERKINS & NICOLA PRESTON Digital Designer RUPERT BURROUGHES • Production Manager KAY BROWN • Account Manager KATHERINE BERRYMAN • Studio Manager NICKY WRIGHT May 2017 Contributors GLEN ABBOTT, JOSH KURPIUS, MICHAEL LICHTER, JEREMY PICK, CHARLES PLUEDDEMAN, JOHN SANDBERG, DUSTIN WOODS Canadian Editorial FRESH AIR PUBLISHING • Editorial Director GORDIE BOWLES • Copyeditor CHRISTINA NEWBERRY Visit Harley-Davidson Canada on the Internet at www.harley-davidson.com.

We care about you. Ride safely, respectfully, and within the limits of the law and your abilities. Always wear an approved helmet, proper eyewear, and protective clothing and insist your passenger does too. Never ride while under the influence of alcohol or drugs. Know your Harley® motorcycle, and read and understand your owner’s manual from cover to cover.

HOG® Magazine Canada is published by Harley-Davidson Canada LP and the Harley Owners Group, the official riding club of Harley-Davidson.

We reserve the right to edit all submissions for publication in HOG® Magazine Canada.

All submissions become property of Harley-Davidson Motor Co. and Harley-Davidson Canada LP. If you’d like your photo returned, please send a self-addressed stamped envelope with your submission.

All H-D® product illustrations, photographs, and specifications mentioned in the publication are based on the latest product information at the time of publication.

The right is reserved to make changes at any time in prices, colors, materials, equipment, specifications, and models and also to discontinue models. Some vehicles in this publication are shown with available equipment.

HOG® Magazine Canada will not intentionally publish fraudulent or misleading advertising. HOG® Magazine Canada does not endorse any advertiser or its products, and cannot be responsible for advertisers’ claims.

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To advertise in HOG® Magazine Canada, email info@freshairpublishing.ca.

No part of HOG® Magazine Canada may be reproduced for any purpose in entirety or part without the express written consent of Harley-Davidson.

Harley-Davidson, Harley, H-D, HOG, and the Bar & Shield logo are among the trademarks of H-D U.S.A., LLC. Copyright 2017 Publication Mail Agreement No. 400337386 CANADA POST Publication Mail: 4161505 Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: HARLEY OWNERS GROUP® 100 New Park Place, Suite 330, Vaughan, Ontario, L4K 0H9 Tel: 1-800-668-4836

A Frozen Few

Slushy conditions during the Mama Tried show weekend in Milwaukee in February couldn’t keep ice racers from revelling in winter’s last gasp.

Photograph by Michael Lichter

It’s All in the Legs Harley-Davidson Regional Police Sales Representative Rob Grimsley shows Terra Green of New Orleans the proper technique to lift a fallen motorcycle at the Harley-DavidsonŽ display during Daytona Bike Week in March.

Photograph by Michael Lichter

ADRENALINE RUSHES. LATE-NIGHT RUNS. 4 A.M. BREAKFASTS. TALES OF REVELRY. ALL FOR LESS THAN YOU THINK.

THE ALL-NEW STREET ROD. STARTING FROM $10,399*. ®

* Price shown for the model in Vivid Black only. Prices listed are the Manufacturer’s Suggested Retail Prices. Options such as colour are available at additional cost.

Prices exclude dealer setup, freight, taxes, title, licensing, fees and other changes and are subject to change. Availability of colours may vary from dealer to dealer and is subject to change without notice. All taxes, shipping and other fees (including dealership fees) are extra. Harley-Davidson reserves the right without prior notice to discontinue at any time any of the items herein or change specifications or designs without incurring any obligations to the customer. All items are subject to availability and prior sale by our dealers. ©2017 H-D or its Affiliates. H-D, Harley, Harley-Davidson and the Bar & Shield Logo are among the trademarks of H-D U.S.A., LLC.

HARLEY-DAVIDSON.COM/STREETROD

THE WORD DON’ T J US T K E E P UP. TAK E T H E LE AD.

Uniquely Canadian Landmarks The best summer road trips often feature spontaneous detours and interesting roadside attractions. Just outside Thunder Bay resides a large bronze statue immortalizing Terry Fox, who dedicated his short life to raising money for cancer research through his Marathon of Hope.

After running 5,373 kilometres in 143 days on one leg, his goal of crossing Canada was cut short — but his legacy continues, with more than $650 million raised in his name to date.

If you plan to make the pilgrimage across the top of Lake Superior to the National Rally in Ottawa, stop by and pay your respects.

Photograph by Dustin A. Woods

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THE WORD HD NEWS

STURGIS

Full Throttle in Sturgis Now’s the perfect time to plan your trip to Sturgis for the Black Hills Motor Classic.

HOG® is pleased to announce that the Pappy Hoel Campground and Resort is the official campground of Harley Owners Group.™ Located on more than 240 hectares along Highway 79, it features private cabins, RV hookups, an Olympic-size pool and the largest stage in Sturgis. It’s also the new home of the legendary Full Throttle Saloon. HOG members are eligible for preferred pricing when booking a camping or RV spot. For more info, visit hog.com or pappyhoelcampground.com.

+ SUMMER RIDING

The Great Canadian Playlist Canadian music may often be overshadowed by the heavyhitting success of American celebrities, but this country has produced some immensely talented musicians. Whether you’re into classic or more contemporary sounds, we’ve curated a couple of riding playlists to commemorate some of the artists who have called this great nation home as we celebrate Canada’s 150th birthday.

CLASSIC

PLAY

+ The Spoons

PLAY

CONTEMPORARY

Nova Heart

+ Odds

Eat My Brain

+ The Tragically Hip

Last American Exit

+ Sloan

+ 54-40

She La

Who Taught You to Live Like That?

+ The Guess Who

Clap for the Wolfman

+ Our Lady Peace

Clumsy

+ Bryan Adams

Run to You

+ Junkhouse

Shine

+ Tom Cochrane

Lunatic Fringe

+ Joel Plaskett

+ Kim Mitchell

Rocklandwonderland

Through & Through & Through

+ Chilliwack

Whatcha Gonna Do (When I’m Gone)

+ The Killjoys

Rave + Drool

+ Barenaked Ladies

The Old Apartment

+ April Wine

Say Hello

+ Arcade Fire

The Suburbs

+ Bachman-Turner Overdrive (BTO)

Takin’ Care of Business

+ Matt Mays

Queen of Portland Street

+ The Sheepdogs

I Don’t Know

+ Neil Young

Powderfinger

+ Sam Roberts

Them Kids

+ Rush

Limelight

+ Arcade Fire

Rebellion

+ The Tragically Hip

Three Pistols

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THE WORD HD NEWS

DIVIDED HIGHWAYS

Commuting Cruising or Open-road Riding?

5 THINGS ABOUT

Do you like to tackle the daily commute aboard your Harley® motorcycle, or do you prefer to unleash it on the open road in your spare time? Is having your bike waiting for you as you step out of the workplace the ultimate freedom, or do you savour the moments when you ride for pure pleasure?

WE ASKED:

44% BOTH

22% 33% DAILY COMMUTE

There’s nothing like taking the long way home after a stressful day at work. Then there are those weekends and vacations where you just ride for hours on end!

–Rod S. … I try to find every opportunity to ride. Riding through the city keeps my awareness skills sharp. Then on the weekends I can enjoy the open road more. –Robert T. … I would rather come home, get on my bike, and head outside the city and find some twisty roads. –Lee H. … I love leaving work knowing that my Heritage is parked outside, waiting to take me on a glorious ride home. It makes the whole day great from the start.–Zack S. … Both are equally important to me. Usually, a

trip on a day off involves me and my wife (on the back of my bike) riding with other couples. The ride after work is a great way to unwind. –John S. … I ride in congested traffic every day. When I hop on my Road King® I prefer to get out on the open road and enjoy the freedom of riding.–Sam F. … There are no words to express the therapeutic feeling of knowing that your bike awaits you in the parking lot after a hard day at work. –Reinaldo T. … The best thing about work? Getting to and from it on my Harley motorcycle. The in between is just noise. –Russell G. …

I prefer to blow off some steam on a nice ride in the country after I get home from work. –Robert K.

NEXT QUESTION:

Minimalist Touring or Sagging Saddlebags?

We’re in the midst of touring season, so when you pack up your bike ready for the road, are you someone who thinks lightweight and bare minimum, or do you squeeze everything but the kitchen sink into your saddlebags? your thoughts to hogmagazine.ca@harley-davidson.com « Send subject line. We’ll publish the best responses in the next issue.

with “Divided Highways” in the

HOG® MAGAZINE CANADA

Ottawa’s streets are more animated and packed than usual this year, with pop-up performances and numerous special events to mark Canada’s 150th birthday throughout the year. Here are a few fun facts as HOG® members prepare for the national rally.

1

OPEN ROAD

YOU SAID: I would have to choose both.

National HOG® Rally in Ottawa

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Birthplace The first Canadian HOG Rally took place 24 years ago in Ottawa.

Host with the most Ottawa is host to events throughout Canada’s 150th birthday year, such as the Juno Awards, Red Bull Crashed Ice, the Stanley Cup Tribute, Ignite 150 and the Grey Cup.

2

Fright nights The streets will come alive with fire-breathing dragons and huge mechanical spiders as La Machine turns downtown Ottawa into a spectacle of large-scale monster machines July 27–30, the same weekend as the National HOG Rally.

3

Canada’s game Stanley Cup celebrations came to Ottawa in March, including the unveiling of a Stanley Cup monument on Sparks Street and an outdoor NHL game event with NHL legends.

4

Festival vibe Inspiration Village on York Street in the ByWard Market area will feature special exhibits and performances May through September.

5

THE WORD GEAR

Style and versatility A ny Harley-Davidson® rider will appreciate a three-for-one deal. These new items from the Harley-Davidson MotorClothes® Collection offer a trifecta of style and versatility from designs that can be deployed three ways to best suit prevailing conditions, rider personality, or on-the-bike vs. casual duty.

Men’s 3-in-1 Denim Slim Fit Riding Vest This new vest-hoodie combo combines slim Black Label fit with key technical features.

The cotton-blend denim vest is designed to fit over the windproof cotton/polyester fleece hoodie. The zip-front hoodie features abrasion-resistant lining at the sleeves and back, with body armour pockets at the elbows and shoulders (body armour sold separately). Designed for riders, the sleeves are slightly pre-curved, and the rib-knit cuffs and waist help block drafts. The vest is styled to look great on or off the bike, with an enzyme stone wash finish, plus snapdown collar, two-way zipper front with snap placket, button waist tabs, two snap flap chest pockets, and two zipper hand-warmer pockets. Offered in sizes S to 3XL. P/N 98175-17VM, from $315.95

Pilot 3-in-1 X04 Helmet This matte black lid starts as a DOT-approved half-helmet, but the add-on rear comfort sleeve and face mask alter the helmet to suit prevailing conditions or rider preference. The helmet features a thermoplastic shell and moisture-wicking antimicrobial liner that’s removable and washable to keep it fresh. The pull-down sun shield offers 95 per cent UV protection, with anti-fog coating on both sides.

For added comfort, there’s a front vent on top of the helmet. The comfort sleeve alone can be added to the helmet for more coverage around the neck and sides of the face. Add the comfort sleeve and face mask for a full-coverage look that will also deflect bugs, rain, and wind (these additional components are for comfort only and don’t provide any safety features). Offered in sizes XS to 2XL. P/N 98193-17VX, $289.95

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THE WORD HD NEWS

Men’s Sully 3-in-1 Convertible Mesh Jacket Zip-off sleeves convert this mesh jacket to a vest that can be worn with or without the hoodie liner. The jacket is made for riding, with a durable nylon body and sleeves, and polyester dobby-mesh panels that ventilate the sides, the action back and under the sleeves. The jacket features body armour pockets at the elbows and shoulders (body armour sold separately), and lightly padded back waist, shoulders and elbows. The action back and slightly pre-curved sleeves enable an easy reach to the handlebar. The piping trim incorporates 3M™ Scotchlite™ Reflective Material for added conspicuity in low light conditions. A zippered vertical interior pocket features a media port. The polyester fleece hoodie is windproof and features a lined hood, inset cuffs with thumbholes, snap hand-warmer pockets, and embroidered graphics on left chest.

Offered in sizes S to 5XL and Tall L to 3XL. P/N 98176-17VM, from $341.95

FOLLOW US

Getting Ready to Rally

facebook.com/ harleycanada

@harleycanada Riding the open road to a rally is one of the true joys of being a HOG® member, but travelling means leaving the comforts of home. With a little planning, you can have a rewarding experience, no matter what the ride throws at you.

RIDING IN RAIN Although it’s important to stay hydrated, you need to stay dry when the water falls out of the sky. A good rain suit can help seal out the elements. Many HarleyDavidson® models offer enhanced visibility with bright colours and

3M™ Scotchlite™ Reflective Material stripes and graphics.

• Fits easily in the compact reusable zip closure bag

ARRIVE IN STYLE The Travel Care Kit has everything you need to make your bike shine.

• Kit includes five 2-oz. (60-mL) refillable bottles of proven Harley-Davidson® cleaning products • Features Sunwash® Bike Soap, spray-on Bug Remover, fast-acting Wheel & Tire Cleaner, Glaze Poly Sealant, Gloss Detailer and soft Microfiber Detailing Cloth

EMERGENCY SERVICE Express Lane Service (ELS) is a great tool for travellers because it enables riders to have their bikes serviced without an appointment. Typical ELS services include oil and tire changes, and various Genuine Motor Parts & Accessories upgrades. H-D® dealerships that offer ELS can carry out work in an hour, and some can perform more comprehensive procedures, such as 1,600-kilometre services. Look for ELS dealers to minimize emergency repairs.

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instagram.com/ harleycanada

youtube.com/ harleycanadaofficial

THE WORD NEXT RIDE

Road Captain Recon

So Near, Yet So Far

Riding the Sea to Sky Highway in Vancouver

F

rom Horseshoe Bay to Pemberton, British Columbia, the Sea to Sky Highway truly lives up to its name.

Riding north from Vancouver, Highway 99 skirts the steep hills next to Howe Sound on its climb into the snowcapped Coast Mountains.

The route is often cited as one of Canada’s most beautiful rides.

Tips from the Langley (B.C.) HOG® Chapter SADDLE UP Although the Sea to Sky portion of Highway 99 runs for about 125 kilometres, you can easily spend a day or more exploring its many attractions. “There are lots of parks along the way,” advises Greg Tunner, road captain and assistant director of the Langley Chapter. “Lots of pullouts and scenic spots.” He recommends a visit to the Britannia Mine Museum in Britannia Beach, a few kilometres south of Squamish.

During the 1920s and ’30s, Britannia was the largest copper mine in the British Commonwealth, and is now a museum and National Historic Site.

CHOW DOWN WHISTLER’S MOTHER

SQUEAMISH IN SQUAMISH

At the northern tip of Howe Sound, near Squamish, stop at Shannon Falls Provincial Park and hike down the trail for a look at British Columbia’s third-highest waterfall. Its thundering waters kick up a fine mist as they splatter over the rocky base 335 metres below.

Next door, you’ll see rock climbers preparing to ascend the Stawamus Chief, the second largest granite monolith in the world. The Sea to Sky Gondola nearby offers a 10-minute gondola ride to the mountaintop, for a stunning scenic overlook, and a swinging suspension bridge – if you’re not the squeamish type.

Continue north 58 kilometres to Whistler, a mountain resort village and site of the 2010 Winter Olympics. Nestled between Whistler and Blackcomb Mountains, the popular resort attracts more than two million visitors each year for a range of summer and winter activities. The First Nations Museum/ Squamish Lil’wat Cultural Centre in Whistler showcases the history, art and culture of the area’s indigenous First Nations people and is worth a visit.

DUFFEY LAKE ROAD

The Sea to Sky portion of Highway 99 ends in Pemberton, but you won’t want to end your trip there. From Pemberton to Lillooet, Route 99 is called Duffey Lake Road. It’s a twisty two-lane that wasn’t even paved until the early 1990s. Lightly travelled, it curves up, down and around the Coast Mountains for another 98 kilometres. With some nice switchbacks, you’ll rarely get above third gear. There are no services between Pemberton and Lillooet, so gas up first!

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The small town of Pemberton, 32 kilometres north of Whistler, is a great place to stop for a meal.

“It’s a sleepy little town that’s all organic farming and whatnot,” says Greg. “Our favourite stop there is a place called Mile One Eating House that has the best gourmet burgers. We do a ride there every spring, specifically for the burgers.”

WHEN TO GO At sea level in Vancouver, the climate is moderate, but at higher elevations you’ll want to avoid riding in winter. “Late May through September is the best riding,” says Greg. “That allows the road grime time to rinse off, and from there, away you go.”

For more information: britanniaminemuseum.ca slcc.ca seatoskygondola.com hellobc.com

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75# *1)t 4#..+'5 MAY 18-20 TEMPLE, TEXAS 5QVUJXGTU

JUL 11-15 COOKEVILLE, TENNESSEE 5QVUJGSP

AUG 17-19 SAULT STE. MARIE, MICHIGAN )SGCU NCMGT

$CEMSQCFT

JUN 7-10 ROANOKE, VIRGINIA /GSIKPI

/QVPUCKPT

JUN 7-10 STEAMBOAT SPRINGS, COLORADO 4QEMZ

0QSUJXGTU

JUL 27-29 LINCOLN, NEW HAMPSHIRE +SQP

'YRQTVSG 6QVSKPI 4CNNZ

AUG 17-19 GRANTVILLE, PENNSYLVANIA 4CNNZ KP

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JUL 10-22 PORTLAND, OREGON TO ST. CHARLES, MISSOURI .GXKT CPF %NCSM

SPRING

FALL

MAY 3-7 PANAMA CITY BEACH, FLORIDA

THUNDER BEACH SPRING RALLY MAY 12-20

Dates and locations are subject to change.

HVP

OCT 13-15 KAHULUI, MAUI, HAWAII +TNCPFT NOV 1-4 PENSACOLA, FLORIDA 5QVUJGCTU For more information, visit hog.com/events

RKP TUQRT

TGCTQP SUMMER

OCT 5-7 ARDMORE, OKLAHOMA %GPUSCN

#FWGPUVSG QH 0GX 'PINCPF

JUN 22-24 FAIRBANKS, ALASKA .CTU (SQPUKGS

SEP 14-16 CHANDLER, ARIZONA 9GTUGSP

JUL 20-22 MERIDIAN, IDAHO 2CEKHKE

JUN 16-21 SOUTH CAROLINA TO FLORIDA 5QVUJGSP

*1) 4CNNZ

4CNNZ

/QVPUCKP

AUG 30-SEP 2 MILWAUKEE, WISCONSIN 75# 0CUKQPCN

JUL 13-15 UTICA, NEW YORK 4GWQNVUKQP

MYRTLE BEACH, SOUTH CAROLINA

MYRTLE BEACH BIKE WEEK MAY 26-29 SANDUSKY, OHIO

OHIO BIKE WEEK MAY 27-28 SPRINGFIELD, ILLINOIS

SPRINGFIELD MILE

MAY 27-28 WASHINGTON, D.C.

AUG 5-12 STURGIS, SOUTH DAKOTA

ROLLING THUNDER® ®

STURGIS MOTORCYCLE RALLY

JUN 12-17

LACONIA, NEW HAMPSHIRE

AUG 25-26 KANSAS CITY, MISSOURI

LACONIA MOTORCYCLE WEEK

KANSAS CITY OPEN HOUSE TOMAHAWK OPEN HOUSE

NHRA MOPAR MILE-HIGH NATIONALS

SEP 20-23 FAYETTEVILLE, ARKANSAS

NATIONAL BIKERS ROUNDUP

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YORK OPEN HOUSE SEP 28-30 RENO, NEVADA

RENO STREET VIBRATIONS

OCT 19-21 SEP 15-16 DAYTONA BEACH, FLORIDA TOMAHAWK, WISCONSIN BIKETOBERFEST®

JUL 21-23 DENVER, COLORADO

AUG 3-5 KANSAS CITY, MISSOURI

SEP 28-30 YORK, PENNSYLVANIA

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BIKES, BLUES & BBQ

NOV 2-5 GALVESTON, TEXAS

LONE STAR RALLY

THE WORD SPOTLIGHT

Work Less, Ride More Mark Atkins, a.k.a. Rusty Butcher, is leading the new wave of free riding and hooligan racing, and he’s doing it on Harley-Davidson® motorcycles.

M

ark Atkins is a very modern phenomenon – an innovator who’s influencing the culture of what can be done on HarleyDavidson® motorcycles, fuelled by the power of social media. The face behind Rusty Butcher, a premium leather goods and clothing brand, Mark is at the forefront of the new wave of hooligan riding, dirt-track racing and grassroots stunt riding now taking hold around the world.

With his strong presence on social media (and more than 100,000 followers), Mark is inspiring a new generation of Harley-Davidson motorcycle owners who modify their bikes for racing, jumping and stunts.

You may have seen him on the H-D “Roll

Your Own” ads, at X Games and hooligan racing events, or on his popular “Tracker Tuesday” and “Rusty Butcher” YouTube channels.

After growing up in Southern California, riding off road from age three, and racing motocross at age four, it was just a matter of time before Mark’s obsession with Harley-Davidson motorcycles and his love for extreme riding hit the sweet spot. In 2015, heads turned when he jumped over a busy freeway onramp on his 1200 Sportster® model, and an Internet phenom was born.

It hasn’t been all smooth sailing, though. A bad crash brought an end to Mark’s burgeoning motocross career while he was still in his teens. An early attempt to start a clothing brand came to

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a halt in 2014 when he walked away from the company, selling his collection of vintage Harley-Davidson bikes in the process.

“I was really into those vintage bikes, even at that stage of my life,” says Mark. “My first Harley-Davidson motorcycle was a ’76 Ironhead Sportster with a left foot shift, followed by a ’68 Shovelhead, then a ’57, and that got me interested in Harley’s history.

I’ve ridden every kind of bike there is, from sportsbikes and motocross to supermotos, and nothing compares with riding a Harley-Davidson motorcycle. It’s like night and day.

The power delivery is like nothing I’ve experienced on any other make.”

Mark ended up keeping one bike, a

PHOTOGRAPHY BY JOSH KURPIUS

Story by JEREMY PICK

THE WORD SPOTLIGHT Sportster model, but riding that motorcycle quickly developed into something unexpected. Growing tired of riding the XL in stock street form, the bike developed into a dirt tracker with uprated suspension, flat track bars and guards, and off-road tires.

“I noticed every time I posted something about that tracker on the Internet, everyone freaked out,” he recalls. “Every week I posted a video of me doing something stupid on it – jumping, wheelies, motocross – and that developed into the ‘Tracker Tuesday’ series of videos; and then I’d turn up at any track that would let me ride, which led into hooligan racing.”

For the uninitiated, hooligan racing is a grassroots sport based on taking a street-legal motorcycle and racing it on a tight oval – a throwback to flat track’s original “run what you brung” premise, where competitors would ride their bike to the track, race and ride home again.

Many events take place on indoor concrete tracks treated with Dr Pepper syrup, an old-school way of increasing the grip to allow seemingly impossible lean angles. Now evolving into a major race series, hooligan racing is riding a storm of hashtag-induced popularity, attracting a host of new riders and major manufacturers, including Harley-Davidson.

Dominating the first year of hooligan racing led to more videos, more social media followers, and then a video for Harley-Davidson, showcasing a 75-foot (22.8 m) jump, dirt to dirt, on a Sportster motorcycle. “That snowballed into a big thing, and it led to Rusty Butcher forging our relationship with Harley. Now we are a sponsored race team, and it has turned into something bigger than we ever thought possible,” says Mark.

“Now more of the big manufacturers are getting on board with hooligan racing, lots of motorcycle shows have a race attached, and we are a big part of the whole scene now.”

Mark has replaced the vintage Harley-Davidson motorcycles with a stable of nine Sportster models – five flat-trackers, two for jumping and “two daily rides” set up for the street – and two Harley-Davidson Street® 750 models.

“I’m really into the new bikes, and I’m currently doing a lot on a 2016 Street 750.

It’s an awesome bike and very different to

what people expect. It develops power just like a dirt bike. I can slip it into second gear, pop the clutch and wheelie – it’s pretty fun,” he grins.

Mark’s choice of street bike is turning heads, too. “Right now, I’m riding a 2000 Sportster with an FXRP police fairing and hard bags from 1989, motocross bars and uprated suspension. I was one of the first to do it with a Sportster, and as soon as that bike was seen on the Internet, we got so much publicity,” he says.

When the riding stops, Mark focuses on Rusty Butcher, his leather goods and clothing brand. “I’ve always been very visual artistically, and I like making stuff, so I taught myself how to make leather goods,” he says. “I started making wallets and keychains, marketing them through Instagram postings. My designs are influenced by my life experiences, both good and bad, and the way I ride. I think people believe in the things I create because I ride harder than 98 per cent of people, so they know everything has been

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race-tested, jumped, beaten, wheelied and thrashed – and it still works.”

So what does the future hold for Mark? Besides building the Rusty Butcher brand and developing new race-tested and inspired products, there’s a new racetrack to work on – Helltrack, named after a track in the 1986 BMX movie Rad; the hooligan race team; a series of informal “Rusty Butcher Rides” through the SoCal hills; a spot in the X Games; and more Harley® motorcycle riding.

“I try to ride all the time, and this year I’m going to focus on really showing people what you can do on a Harley-Davidson motorcycle,” says Mark. “I want to show people that you can ride them anywhere – on the street, on the dirt, on the racetrack, anywhere.

I build my bikes around what I want them to do, and what I want is for them to be able to take a beating and still want more – that is the goal I want to share this year.”

PURPLE MOUNTAIN MAJESTIES

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Mountains, valleys and amber waves of grain at the Pacific Northwest HOG® Rally

BY GLEN ABBOTT

R

umbling along Palouse Scenic Byway with dozens of attendees of the 2016 Pacific Northwest HOG® Rally, I saw golden fields of wheat stretched as far as the eye could see. Stalks swayed rhythmically in a gentle breeze, like undulating carpets of grain interrupted occasionally by flashes of colour as giant combine harvesters worked their way back and forth. Left in the wake of the machinery was terrain sculpted with the precision of a military haircut.

I’d arrived in the Pacific Northwest expecting purple mountain majesties, even a fruited plain or two, but the amber waves of grain took me by surprise. “America the Beautiful” kept repeating in

my head, almost to the point of becoming irritating.

Spokane Valley, Washington, was home base for the Pacific Northwest HOG Rally – “Three HOG Nights,” as the logo on the T-shirt said – near the Idaho border in the state’s eastern central region. I’d flown into Seattle a few days earlier, planning a scenic loop through the Cascade Mountains heading to the rally and back.

At Eastside H-D in Bellevue, a beautiful Two-Tone Amber Whiskey/ Vivid Black Harley-Davidson® Ultra Limited motorcycle awaited, gassed, polished and rarin’ to go. “Washington State is just gorgeous,” rentals manager Ned Kinghorn told me enthusiastically. “It’s unparalleled in the United

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States – absolutely stunning!”

On the road, I pointed the handlebar north, where an hour later I happily joined Cascade Loop Scenic Highway.

My planned route included much of the northern and southern loop: State Route 20 through North Cascades National Park, then U.S. 2 for the return to Seattle.

Rolling through Skagit Valley on S.R. 20, the scent of cow manure perfumed the air.

The valley produces a variety of crops, but it’s also the leading producer of tulip, iris and daffodil bulbs in the country. I rode through small towns, fields brimming with cornstalks and orchards bright with apples – I got your fruited plain right here. Stopping to photograph a herd of bison in a fenced pasture, I became somewhat alarmed as they gathered together and began running in wide circles. Not wanting to be trampled by a herd of pissed-off bovines, I beat a hasty retreat.

Continuing east, the snow-covered peaks of the Cascade Mountains beckoned in the distance. Extending some 1,100 kilometres from California to British

Columbia, the Cascades include many 3,000-metre peaks and a number of extinct, dormant and active volcanoes.

A highway sign at Marblemount, on the edge of the national park advised, “Last Services for 74 Miles” – that’s 119 kilometres. In my experience, these types of warnings are code for “Lonely, Scenic Roads Ahead,” and I’ve seldom been disappointed. Entering the park, Highway 20 wound through a canopy of fir, cedar and hemlock trees, and the Skagit River babbled with increasing urgency next to the road. At the visitor centre, I noticed a book on display that referred to the North Cascades as “America’s Alps,” an apt comparison. “It’s very high peaks, very rocky and jagged,” explained Christian Martin later at the North Cascades Environmental Learning Center.

“There are more glaciers here than anywhere else in America. Those glaciers melt and create all these waterfalls, creeks, rivers and lakes throughout the park.”

Stopping at Gorge Overlook, I gazed out over

Gorge Lake and Dam, which was first constructed in 1921 as part of Seattle City Light’s Skagit River Hydroelectric Project. The project consists of three dams within the national park, which together supply 20 per cent of Seattle’s electricity. A few kilometres later, I visited the Environmental Learning Center, where I’d arranged to spend the night.

GREEN GLACIAL GLOW The Center’s wilderness campus offers activities and programs on the region’s geology, wildlife, and natural and cultural history with overnight hostel-style lodgings, including a dining hall that provides locally sourced organic meals. “Base Camp is a casual learning program and offers things like canoe trips on Diablo Lake, or maybe a nighttime walk and campfire,” Martin told me.

Despite the summer season, a chill suffused the air as I continued east on S.R. 20 the next day. Pulling into Diablo Lake Overlook, the turquoise waters sparkled in the morning sun. Impossibly green, the water gets its colour

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from “rock flour,” silt ground from glaciers that reacts with sunlight to stunning effect.

Combined with a milliondollar valley view, surrounded

by Jack Mountain and Colonial, Pyramid and Davis Peaks this is one overlook you don’t want to miss.

East of Diablo Lake, a 65-kilometre stretch of S.R. 20 is closed each winter due to heavy snow and the danger of avalanches. But what makes for inhospitable terrain in winter offers near-perfect riding in summer. Summiting Rainy Pass, the snow-covered peaks seemed almost close enough to touch. A short hike through the woods opened to a ledge overlooking Liberty Bell Mountain and the Early Winters Spires.

Outside of the park a couple of hours later, I rode through the small town of Winthrop.

Gold miners settled the area in the late 19th century, but most of the mines had closed by the early decades of the 20th century and the town declined.

When Route 20 came through in the early 1970s, town leaders came up with a plan to recreate its main street with Old West–style facades and wooden sidewalks to draw in tourists.

Continuing east along S.R. 20, I spent the next several hours winding between mountains and valleys, running past forests and farm fields. Between Republic and Kettle Falls in Colville National Forest, the route crosses the state’s highest mountain pass at 1,675 metres.

After an overnight stop in Colville in the state’s northeastern corner, I rode south on U.S. 395 toward Spokane Valley. Last year marked the third annual Pacific Northwest HOG Rally, which combined the Washington, Oregon and Idaho state rallies.

Parking my Ultra Limited at rally HQ on the ample grounds of Lone Wolf H-D, I wandered off to get registered and meet fellow HOG members. Nearby,

county in the United States.

It’s not Kansas, Toto.

“HOG is about riding and having fun.

We’re all brothers and sisters.”

I spoke with Dwayne Sachs and Brad Carvery, who’d journeyed from Edmonton.

“HOG is about riding and having fun,” Carvery said.

“We try to get out and see what they’re doing in the United States. We’re all brothers and sisters.”

For the first night’s festivities, I joined a “Street Party Ride” to nearby Coeur d’Alene, Idaho.

There, city officials closed off a couple of downtown blocks to all but motorcycle traffic so the group could enjoy an evening of socializing and strolling

among the city’s many bars, restaurants and cafés.

The next morning I gathered with a large group of riders at the dealership for a guided ride to the Palouse region.

“It’s a farm area, known for its wheat production,” ride organizer and Lone Wolf HOG Chapter Road Captain Dave Palmer explained.

“Two lane, really nice, scenic ride with mountains in the background.” The Palouse covers some 7,700 square kilometres and includes the largest wheat-producing

NUTCRACKERS AND BRATWURST The highlight of my return to Seattle after the rally turned out to be a taste of Bavaria in the small town of Leavenworth.

Nestled in a valley on the North Cascades’ eastern slope near the centre of the state along U.S. Route 2, Leavenworth was an early 20th-century boomtown.

Sawmills buzzed and railcars clattered. By mid-century, not so much – the railroad had gone, the timber industry was dead, and Leavenworth seemed destined to become a ghost town. In the early 1960s, town leaders decided to capitalize on its alpine setting and remake the town as a Bavarian village, complete with timber-framed architecture and a year-round series of festivals. It sounds cheesy, but it worked – Leavenworth looks and feels like the real thing, and now attracts some 2.5 million visitors each year.

I checked into my room at the Icicle Village Resort, then strolled into the town’s centre to visit the Leavenworth Nutcracker Museum. Founded

by Arlene Wagner and her husband in 1995, the museum displays some 6,000

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nutcrackers, the largest collection of the devices in the world, and the only all-nutcracker museum in the country. “There is no other collectible or tool that is made in as many different materials or designs as the nutcracker is,” Arlene told me. I asked her if she had any with a biker theme, and after pondering the question, she led me to a display case with two nutcrackers, one labeled “Cycle Santa,” and the other “Bill the Biker.”

Afterward, I followed my nose to München Haus, an outdoor Bavarian grill and beer garden, where I ordered a bratwurst, German pretzel and a cold beverage. My Washington trip was nearing its end, but earlier at the rally, Palmer had extolled the virtues of his state. “Washington has the mountains, it’s got the lakes, it’s got the ocean and the sound. There’s just such a diverse riding experience here; it’s incredible.” He didn’t mention the food and drink, but they aren’t too shabby either.

This year’s Pacific Northwest HOG Rally takes place July 20–22 in Meridian, Idaho. For more information, visit hog.com/events

KEEP FIRING ON BOTH CYLINDERS.

RENEW YOUR H.O.G.® MEMBERSHIP. AND GET THE MOST OUT OF YOUR HARLEY-DAVIDSON.

Get the full-on, thundering Harley-Davidson experience with exclusive rides, a network of like-minded independents and a bunch of other perks that help you get every last towncruising rumble out of your Harley-Davidson motorcycle. RENEW TODAY AT HOG.COM/RENEW. ©2017 H-D or its affiliates. HARLEY-DAVIDSON, HARLEY, H-D, and the Bar and Shield Logo are among the trademarks of H-D U.S.A., LLC. Third-party trademarks are the property of their respective owners.

INSPIRATION

The new Harley-Davidson® Street Rod® is tuned for the concrete jungle.

BY CHARLES PLUEDDEMAN

“THE STREET ROD IS A DYNAMIC MOTORCYCLE AND CERTAINLY THE MOST NIMBLE, TOSSABLE BIKE IN THE CURRENT HARLEY-DAVIDSON LINEUP .”

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T

he new Harley-Davidson® Street Rod® motorcycle is designed to prevail in urban battle, where victory goes to the swift and agile. A muscular middleweight addition to the Harley-Davidson Street® model family, the Street Rod is powered by a pumped-up High Output Revolution X™ 750 engine and supported by premium suspension components to conquer crosstown traffic.

The High Output Revolution X 750 engine produces 18 per cent more horsepower and 8 per cent more torque than the standard Revolution X 750 engine (compared to U.S. and Canada models). The new single overhead-cam V-twin engine features a larger air box, a new dual-throat throttle body, revised

four-valve cylinder heads and high-lift camshafts, and a higher-volume muffler.

The compression ratio is bumped from 11.0:1 to 12:1, and the engine redline is increased from 8,000 to 9,000 RPM. “There is a lot of untapped potential in the Revolution X engine, and we’ve tuned this High Output version to maximize torque and deliver real-world performance,” said Mathew Weber, Harley-Davidson chief engineer for the Street Rod model. “In fact, we were willing to sacrifice a little top-end power to give this engine real punch between 3,000 and 5,000 RPM. The Street Rod jumps out of corners and can power away from traffic. It’s really fun to ride.”

The Street Rod motorcycle backs up its performance with a liberal dose of

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Harley-Davidson Dark Custom styling.

Highlights include a new colour-matched speed screen; a short, aggressive streetfighter-inspired tail; and an all-new LED tail lamp and turn signals with a Street Rod signature look.

“We made this new bike look tough and aggressive,” said Harley-Davidson lead designer Chetan Shedjale. “This fits with the environment in which we expect riders will ride this motorcycle. The inverted black-anodized forks and triple clamps along with a new speed screen combine to add visual mass to the Street Rod front end, while the new tail section lightens up the rear. The increased ground clearance and new 17-inch wheels give the Street Rod an intimidating stance.

Finally, a scoop-shaped air intake inspired

by American hot rod culture and the deeper growl of the exhaust note draw attention to the High Output Revolution X engine.”

The Street Rod will be offered in three colour options: Vivid Black, Charcoal Denim, and Olive Gold.

The Street Rod bike’s chassis is engineered to match the performance of the High Output Revolution X engine.

The front end features rigid 43-mm inverted forks gripped by a lightweight aluminum triple clamp. Fork rake angle is tightened from 32 to 27 degrees to quicken the steering. Coil-over rear shock absorbers have an external reservoir to increase fluid capacity and improve suspension control for improved dynamic handling capabilities.

The shocks increase the rear suspension travel by 31 per cent to 117 millimetres.

A new swingarm is slightly longer to accommodate the taller ride height.

Lean angle is increased from 28.5 degrees left and right to 37.3 degrees right and 40.2 degrees left. The Street Rod motorcycle rolls on lightweight 17inch (43-cm) front and rear Split 7-Spoke Black Cast Wheels, and new Michelin Scorcher 21 radial tires. Dual 300 mm–diameter front disc brakes deliver confident stopping power. Anti-Lock Braking (ABS) and the Harley-Davidson Smart Security System are factoryinstalled options for the Street Rod. A new seat shape is designed to fit the rider’s contour, and seat height is raised by 93 millimetres, to 747 millimetres, to enhance the rider’s view forward over traffic. A flat drag-style handlebar puts the rider in a fist-forward posture on the bike.

The Street Rod also features new forged foot controls and aluminum footpegs positioned for a comfortable seating position that also makes it easy for riders to get their feet down to the ground at stops.

“The Street Rod is easy to ride hard, and that is exactly the intent of its design,” said Weber. “You won’t drag a knee at high speed on this bike, but this is a real 750 cc–class motorcycle that feels much lighter than you’d expect. Tires, wheels, suspension and frame geometry are engineered to work together and deliver handling that’s light and precise at all speeds. The response to rider input is direct. You can feel exactly where you are on the road. The Street Rod is a really dynamic motorcycle and certainly the most nimble, tossable bike in the current Harley-Davidson lineup.”

Trikes of

Three Days on Three Wheels with the New Smyrna Beach HOG® Chapter

BY GLEN ABBOTT HOG MAGAZ I NE

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M

uscling through a series of tight curves on Country Road 450 near Umatilla, Florida, felt strangely exhilarating, or, more accurately, strange and exhilarating. I was part of a group of 23 riders on 19 Harley-Davidson® motorcycles, all of us members of the New Smyrna Beach (Florida) HOG® Chapter. February in Florida is different than elsewhere in the country: The day’s high was forecast as 27 C – warm, sunny, perfect weather.

My ride was a Harley® Tri Glide® Ultra model, rented for three days from Seminole H-D in Sanford, Florida. On the Ocala ride, I was one of a trio of trikers, but for me, this was only my second day ever on a three-wheeler.

My inspiration to try a trike came from HOG member Don

Younkin, a Tri Glide owner and member of the Mon-Valley Chapter of Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania. Don’s letter, published in the Summer 2016 issue of HOG® Magazine Canada, caught my eye: “I think you are ignoring a large part of your riding public,” it read. “We enjoy the freedom as much as the rest of the riders, but never seem to be appreciated.”

Respect. Aretha Franklin demanded it. Rodney Dangerfield never got any.

Don expects it. “I don’t care whether you’re on a trike or two wheels, you’re still on a motorcycle,” he told me over the phone. “You’re still open and free.” Don, 68, and a rider since age 14, bought his Tri Glide in 2014, several years after a stroke affected his ability to ride. He, too, battled his own negative perceptions about three-wheelers, but a visit to his local dealer changed that. “It’s compact, it’s beautiful. I fell in love and

immediately bought it.”

Let’s face it: Trikes sometimes face an image problem; some see them as the minivans of motorcycling.

I mean, you didn’t see Captain America and Billy riding trikes cross country in Easy Rider, any more than you would’ve seen Burt Reynolds

HOG® MAGAZINE CANADA

driving a Town & Country in Smokey and the Bandit.

But that was then. Trikes have come a long way, and many riders prefer to rock a three-wheeled footprint. And there’s nothing wrong with that. Don, for one, battles stereotypes every day on his Tri Glide. “It’s like part of the idea [that] you’re not part of the ‘rebel youth’ because you got a trike. Oh yeah, so what?” he said defiantly. “Well, you’re still in your leathers, you’re still in your do-rag. That perception has to change.”

TRAINING DAY

I picked up my Tri Glide on a Thursday at Seminole H-D. I would be riding it to the New Smyrna Beach chapter meeting that evening, to Ocala on Friday and on another chapter ride to Flagler Beach, Florida, on Saturday. Three days on three wheels would give me a taste of the triker life. HarleyDavidson® Authorized Rentals representative Kristen Lasky ran through the features of my sparkling Mysterious Red Sunglo/Velocity Red Sunglo 2017 Milwaukee-Eight™ Tri Glide Ultra. “Just remember, you don’t have to put your feet down,” she advised. It sounded obvious, but that would prove to be one of the hardest habits for me to break.

Psyching myself up, I sat in the saddle, pulled in the clutch, and thumbed the starter. “I am a Jedi,” I told myself. “I’m one with the Force, and the Force will guide me” (hey, it worked in Star Wars). Pulling slowly away from the curb, I momentarily extended my legs for balance as I might have done on my two-wheeled Road King® model. Well, that was graceful. Likewise, at the very first stop sign, I caught myself putting my feet down. Uh huh…

Those first few kilometres on the Tri Glide felt weird. Lots of feedback through the handlebars, and I noticed every bump in the road, a function of

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having three points of contact with the ground instead of two. Previously, I’d spent a day observing the very first 3WBRC – that’s 3-Wheel Basic Rider CourseSM – ever taught at Seminole H-D. 3WBRC is offered by the HarleyDavidson® Riding Academy, in conjunction with the Motorcycle Safety Foundation. The course is designed for new riders who are interested in trikes only; in Florida, its successful completion earns you an “S” restriction on your driver’s licence, valid just for three-wheeled motorcycles.

In the classroom, I watched and listened as Riding Academy manager Ed Fulford and rider coach Janet Walker explained basic riding concepts and familiarization with the motorcycle’s controls to the two female students, both

I DON’T CARE WHETHER YOU’RE ON A TRIKE OR TWO WHEELS, YOU’RE STILL ON A MOTORCYCLE.” of whom came to learn on their husbands’ Tri Glide models. “I want to learn to ride in case anything happens on trips so I can take over,” Debbie Hartzell told me.

“Or later I can take the bike and go riding on my own.” The course includes six hours of

classroom instruction and eight hours of range practice, spread over a two-day period.

Students must pass two skills evaluations – one written and the other riding.

Later, I asked Ed what I should be aware of my first time riding a trike. “The controls are the same, but the handling is a different animal,” he said. “Biggest difference is in turning: no lean, it’s direct steering. Point and aim, like you would with a car, except you’re using handlebars to turn the wheel.

Consequently, your speeds going into corners and curves need to be slower.”

Another key difference?

“You’ve got to remember that your back end is wider than your front.” Oh, I thought that was because I was getting older! “I’ve seen people that haven’t had the training pull into a gas station and rip off a fender on those

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poles alongside the pumps because they forgot their back end is wider.

“Trikes take a little more physical stamina than riding a two-wheeler,” Ed added. “It’s a lot more upper body with the turning: We have to physically turn those handlebars.”

LOUD AND PROUD

Accelerating onto the freeway that first day on the Tri Glide motorcycle, I was rewarded by an exhilarating burst of power from its Milwaukee-Eight engine.

The motorcycle felt solid, stable and self-assured on the highway. By the time I arrived at my group’s chapter meeting, I was feeling more comfortable on the threewheeler, and eagerly anticipating the next day’s 300-plus-kilometre round trip to Ocala. Head Road Captain Tommy Duane

laughed, “We changed our terminology on chapter rides to be inclusive of trikes – instead of putting a ‘KSU’ (Kickstands Up) time in the calendar, we put ‘BIS’ (Butts in Seats) as well.”

Road Captain Bill Brogan’s scenic tour through Ocala’s horse country and Ocala National Forest drew a large group of riders on a warm Friday morning. “This is one of my favourite Florida rides,” he said. “It winds, it goes through woods and canopytreed areas and beautiful horse pasture.” Chapter members Kathy and Harry Diffenbaugh each accompanied me on Tri Glide models. Harry’s regular scoot is a two-wheeler, but he’d borrowed a friend’s trike especially for this ride, while his wife Kathy has always been a Tri Glide rider. “I just feel more secure on a trike,” she explained. “I tried doing the two-wheel thing, and it just didn’t work for me.”

Bill’s route took us along the southern edge of the national forest, through small towns and past roadside shacks advertising “Boiled P-Nuts” (a Southern delicacy),

firewood and local honey. We stopped along U.S. 40 in Silver Springs for some whoopie – pies, that is. For the uninitiated, a whoopie pie is a cake-like cookie with a creamy frosting in the middle, and you eat it like a sandwich.

I bought 23 chocolate and vanilla pies from Sweet Jane’s Candy Store to share with the group; judging from the silence as they were eaten, the consensus was that the stop was worthwhile.

Sated, we began our Ocala tour in earnest. Marion County, where Ocala is located, calls itself the “Horse Capital of the World.” In a world of “alternative facts,” this doesn’t appear to be an idle boast. Although Lexington, Kentucky, also claims the title, Marion County is home to more horses and ponies than anywhere else according to a national census. The equine explosion is spread among 1,200 horse farms covering more than 28,000 hectares of pasture – more than 400 of which raise thoroughbreds.

The economic impact of the thoroughbred industry alone to the county is more than

US$1.3 billion (about C$1.75 billion).

Our triker triumvirate stayed together near the front of the group, enjoying the scenery and getting a good upper-body workout on the curvy rural roads. Northwest of the city, we wound through canopies of live oak trees

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draped in Spanish moss and along wood-fenced pasture housing some of the country’s finest thoroughbreds. “I think we saw more horses today than we’ve ever seen before,” Bill told me after the ride.

Reluctant to return the Tri Glide the next day, I took advantage of another chapter ride Saturday morning to the town of Flagler Beach on the ocean, returning through the tree-canopied Ormond Loop.

Over a three-day rental, I’d put more than 640 kilometres on the trike and grown surprisingly fond of it. Don’s embrace of triker life now made a lot of sense. “I’m doing more riding than I ever did on two wheels,” he enthused. “I hate cold weather, but my wife and I rode all winter last year [in Pennsylvania]. Cold, miserable, but we rode because it’s so much more fun on a trike.”

Visit harley-davidson.com/content/ h-d/en_CA/home/learn-to-ride.html for information on the HarleyDavidson Riding Academy New Rider Course.

YOUR SENSE OF ADVENTURE

’ DOESN T EXPIRE.

YOUR MEMBERSHIP SHOULDN’T EITHER.

KEEP THE RIDE FIRING ON BOTH CYLINDERS. Your H.O.G. membership is your ticket to the biggest ride you can take through the world of Harley-Davidson. It connects you to other riders wherever you roam. It’s your invitation to a year-round calendar of rallies, rides and events. And it gives you benefits as real as your Harley-Davidson steel. Like HOG magazine, Roadside Assistance, special deals, and more.

So renew your membership. The bigger you ride, the better it gets. Visit HOG.com ®

©2016 H.O.G., AND THE H.O.G. LOGO ARE AMONG THE REGISTERED TRADEMARKS OF H-D U.S.A., LLC.

Minimalist Mantra The latest H-D® Parts and Accessories showcase a striking new style, where minimal extras boast maximum effect.

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A Café bike starts with a “less-is-more” philosophy. Stripped of all “unnecessary” accessories, these unburdened motorcycles are lighter, faster and have a hard-edged, rebellious look that reflects the rider’s bare-knuckle attitude.

READY FOR A FIGHT

Low-slung Clip-On Handlebar, Rear Set Foot Controls and a narrow profile. These are the signature features that define a

Café-style bike. And those same features prepare the bike to attack the road ahead.

No barista required

More comfortable parked in front of a roadside diner than a frou-frou coffee shop, this Café Custom Roadster ™ model is caffeine fuelled, fully wired and ready to take on the twisties. With its standard inverted forks, dual front disc brakes and premium emulsion shocks, the

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XL1200CX is primed and ready for carving up back roads. And when equipped with the low-slung Clip-On Handlebar, Rear Set Foot Controls, and swept-back solo Café Custom Tail Section, the aggressive riding profile puts the rider firmly in control.

Visit your local Harley-Davidson® dealer or h-d.com to start your customization journey.

BEYOND THE BEACH

TRAVELLING OFF THE BEATEN PATH IN SAN DIEGO, CALIFORNIA

Story and photos by Dustin A. Woods

I

used to think that being a meteorologist in San Diego would be among the easiest jobs on the planet, since I had never witnessed the temperature go below 20 C or above 30 and it seems to be sunny every day. But apparently that isn’t always so. After a drought long enough for the institution of conservation measures enforced by “water police,” the area has recently experienced record-breaking rainfall and flooding. Just my luck, since I had booked a motorcycle trip to the area months before.

When people think of San Diego, they often envision great surfing, yoga, the Pacific Coast Highway, the USS Midway or the world famous zoo. That’s more than enough to fill a weekend, but there is much more to discover in and around San Diego County whether you stay in the city or use it as a hub.

Flying from eastern Canada to the western United States meant I gained three hours, so I had much of my first day to spend downtown. With my “no rain” theory proven incorrect, I headed to the Cosmopolitan Hotel in Old Town, where I would be staying for the evening, to get settled before picking up my bike.

Constructed in 1827, the original home owned by pioneer Juan Bandini is the second-oldest building in Old Town and among the oldest in San Diego County. The recently restored Cosmopolitan originally became a hotel in the 1870s, and with antique décor, employees wearing period clothing and an operating saloon, it remains a unique

and historic place in the heart of Old Town San Diego State Historic Park. San Diego’s first “downtown” consists of preserved buildings and a historic plaza along with reconstructed sites and early 20th-century buildings, representing San Diego’s Hispanic heritage from 1821 to 1872. It feels like being on the set of a classic western film.

Fiesta de Reyes plaza offers daily entertainment, folklorico dancing, art, crafts, food and drink, including a shop called Old Town Jerky & Root Beer.

Unsurprisingly, they sell only two things – I’ll let you guess what they are. Across the street, there’s an authentic Mexican culinary experience at Casa Guadalajara, complete with guitarists that serenade you while you eat great food and drink fresh lime margaritas. It was lined up out the door on a random Tuesday in January, so make reservations.

I’ve been to San Diego several times, but it wasn’t until I left the typical chain hotels and restaurants that I truly appreciated the convergence of cultures. While European explorers will take credit for discovering the area in 1542, archaeological records show that the Kumeyaay people pre-date them by some 10,000 years. A semi-nomadic society, the Kumeyaay moved with the seasons to follow the migration patterns of animals and availability of the plants they consumed. Starting in the 1700s, the area was ruled by Spain and then Mexico before becoming part of the United States in 1848 and the State of California in 1850.

Think of it as Americana meets mariachi.

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San Diego County is a point of convergence, not only for various unique cultures but also for three distinct geographical regions: oceanfront, mountains and desert. Temperatures can change quickly and significantly based on elevation, as I discovered when leaving the city limits on Highway 8 aboard a 2015 Harley-Davidson® Road Glide® model. As the road curved tighter and its grading increased, the mercury dropped into the single digits.

Approaching Cuyamaca Rancho State Park on Highway 79, the first sign of snow appeared. I specifically flew to southern California to avoid snow, and here I was riding straight into it while there was a spring-like thaw back home. I can’t recall witnessing children tobogganing while on a motorcycle trip before, but they looked at me like I was certifiably nuts. The benefits to travelling prior to high season are reduced rates and tourist traffic, but the potential downside is that the weather can be a gamble. Being a hardy Canadian, I simply put on more layers and continued on my merry way towards the town of Julian.

Once boasting the densest population in the state after a miner named Fred Coleman struck gold in 1870, the town of Julian was home to more than 200 working mines and was allegedly considered the county seat at one time.

Equipment for hard rock mining was brought to the coast by steamship, then into the remote and rocky terrain of the mountains by horse-drawn carriage. If

you are remotely interested in history, the hour-long tour of the historic Eagle and High Peak Mines is well worth your time. Ducking through a series of intricate tunnels and shafts, guides share details of the mines’ rudimentary operation and ultimate demise due to the change in the value of gold and more cost-effective methods of mining it.

Located in the picturesque Cuyamaca Mountains, Julian’s main street consists of quaint Victorian and Old West architecture featuring general stores, restaurants, and craft, antique and coffee shops. After taking in the mine tour, I grabbed lunch at the Julian Café & Bakery, which is famous for its comfort food, particularly the homemade apple pie.

After trying it, I can understand why.

I then stopped in at the Nickel Beer Company to grab a couple small growlers of their delicious local craft beer to take back to the Orchard Hill Country Inn. The AAA Four Diamond hilltop oasis features 10 rooms in the main lodge and 12 cottage rooms. Owner Pat Straube says that she and her husband could have settled anywhere in the world when they retired, but they chose to put down roots here.

“There are 16 native tribes in this area – people who have a special connection to the land,” she explained while showing me around the grounds. “I think that’s part of the reason it feels so relaxing and tranquil. You can’t be stressed here.”

WHERE TO STAY Cosmopolitan Hotel oldtowncosmopolitan.com Orchard Hill Country Inn orchardhill.com Palm Canyon Hotel & RV Resort highwaywestvacations.com/properties/ palmcanyon Rancho Bernardo Inn ranchobernardoinn.com

WHERE TO PLAY Junípero Serra Museum sandiegohistory.org/serra_museum Lions, Tigers & Bears lionstigersandbears.org Eagle and High Peak Mines Julian Pioneer Museum julianpioneermuseum.org Borrego Spring Dark Sky Community darksky.org/idsp/communities/ borregosprings/ California Overland Desert Excursions californiaoverland.com Galleta Meadows Sky Art desertusa.com/borrego/bs-art.html Palomar Observatory astro.caltech.edu/palomar/visitor

WHERE TO EAT Casa Guadalajara casaguadalajara.com Julian Café and Bakery juliancafe.com Jeremy’s on the Hill jeremysonthehill.com Dudley’s Famous Bakery dudleysbakery.com Red Ocotillo Restaurant redocotillo2.homestead.com AVANT ranchobernardoinn.com/dine/avant

There are some great food options in the area, including Jeremy’s on the Hill, which came highly recommended.

Featuring farm-to-table cuisine prepared

by Le Cordon Bleu–trained chef Jeremy Manley, the seasonal menus are made from fresh, local ingredients.

The next morning, I awoke to bright blue skies relaxed and well rested to begin my journey to Borrego Springs, which started by negotiating black ice and single digit temps but ended surrounded by cacti and palm trees. If you happen to be travelling through the area in the off season, I recommend packing layers.

Approaching the edge of the mountain range, riders will enjoy miles and miles of smooth, uninhabited highway where each turn is different from the last. Before descending into the 248,880-hectare Anza-Borrego Desert State Park, a pull off at an elevation of 700 metres provides a view as far as the Salton Sea that must be experienced to comprehend its grandeur.

As the temperature rose during the winding descent into the desert, the snow melted, and the sweet scent of desert wildflowers wafted through my helmet as I approached the Palm Canyon Hotel & RV Resort. While the idea of an “RV park” may scare off some people, I would urge anyone travelling through the area to stay here. Visitors can stay in clean, comfortable and well-appointed western-themed hotel rooms, hook up their own RV or sleep in a

classic refurbished Airstream trailer under the clear desert sky.

Surrounded by the vast and lightless park, Borrego Springs is the only certified Dark Sky Community in the state and was designated by USA Today as one of the top 10 stargazing locations in the country. When the sun goes down, you’ll understand why.

While checking into the hotel, the gentleman in front of me – who was wearing a Harley-Davidson t-shirt – noticed my H-D® riding jacket and asked where I was coming from. I told him I had ridden from San Diego but hailed from Toronto. He responded that he and his partner were from Calgary, at which time she turned to ask, “Are you Dustin Woods?”

I was shocked to find that it was Diane Wild, formerly of Calgary HarleyDavidson, who had rented photographer Dan Lim and me our bikes for the ride through the Rockies last summer. “It’s a small world” doesn’t begin to cover it.

As it turns out, Wayne and Diane had trailered their Harley®s down behind their RV for a week of rest, relaxation and riding. It also turns out that we had the same agenda for the following day, exploring the area and tracking down the various pieces of Galleta Meadows Sky Art, a series of giant metallic sculptures.

The massive and incredibly detailed dinosaurs, raptors, mammoths, elephants, camels and wild stallions, not to mention the 100-metre Chinese dragon, provide something of a scavenger hunt through the area.

Following that, I took a tour of the Anza-Borrego State Park with California Overland Desert Excursions.

The company has a number of Jeeps and eclectic army vehicles capable of traversing the thankless terrain known as the Badlands – a generic term used to describe an area on early maps where there was no water, food source or shade.

Still, many plants and animals call the area home.

We explored mud caves and a scenic lookout called Vista del Malpais, overlooking one of the most prolific archaeological sites in the world, where countless dinosaurs, mastodons and prehistoric animals have been uncovered.

Following this educational and engaging tour, I met up with Wayne and Diane and rode to the Red Ocotillo Restaurant, where friendly staff served up some delicious American comfort food.

I said goodbye to Wayne and Diane the next morning but soon had to return to them upon discovering that the shifter on the Road Glide had stopped working, leaving me with only first gear.

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Thankfully, Wayne had the tools and the knowhow to quickly diagnose and fix the problem and get me back on my way – otherwise, I might still be there now. It made me even more thankful to have run into a couple of friendly Canadians while travelling abroad solo through secluded, unforgiving landscapes.

Following the brief delay, I once again enjoyed the beautiful winding roads of the area, including the Palomar Mountain Loop en route to the lavish Rancho Bernardo Inn in San Diego. After parking the Harley among Cadillacs, Mercedes and BMWs, I felt slightly out of place in jeans and motorcycle boots while enjoying a beverage, a book and a beautiful sunset on the patio overlooking the golf course.

Isolated from the hustle and bustle of the city, I raised a glass of wine while enjoying an exceptional meal at the hotel’s AVANT restaurant to wrap up a trip that was not without its trials and triumphs.

Travelling by motorcycle through remote areas opens you up to obstacles like unpredictable weather or mechanical issues, but how you handle them will determine whether they become a mere setback or a debilitating roadblock. Taking a chance by exploring off the beaten path can create some challenges, but it can also lead to some of the best experiences.

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A PORTLAND JEWEL Jewelry designer Heidi Lieberman’s beloved Harley-Davidson® Sportster® motorcycle is a key part of her creative process.

BY JEREMY PICK

W

hen I became ill 10 years ago, I thought I was dying. I was housebound and nobody could tell me what was wrong with me. I’ve always been artistic, and I needed a creative outlet, so I taught myself to hand-bead. My illness was eventually diagnosed, and as I gradually became healthier and stronger I made more jewelry. I decided to work from a small studio in Portland, Oregon, where I met other jewellers and became good friends with Allison Bartline, who designs and makes sterling silver pieces. We talked about setting up a studio together and rented a warehouse space in the central city. It meant I could devote all of my time to improving my skills and building a business.

Fast-forward to today, and my life is quite different. My jewelry line, Honeyfox, is established, and Allison and I own the Gem Gem jewelry store, which is connected to the studio. We carry our own lines, as well as pieces from 18

other creative spirits. We had our eyes on our favourite designers and invited them to be part of the store. I call it a little jewelry box. We’ve been open for nine months, and all of the jewelry we sell is exclusive to Portland.

Honeyfox is made up of limited-edition hand-beaded pieces that feature vintage silver accents. I use found elements, such as obsidian arrowheads and vintage coins. I’m deeply influenced by the American West, nature, my country roots, hiking and motorcycling, and I weave those into my designs with a focus on colour combinations and pattern.

Motorcycling goes hand in hand with my lifestyle as an artist. I love being able to express myself through my work and my motorcycle, and I love adventures. There are times when I need to clear my head, and riding is ideal for that – being able to take a road trip helps the creative process. I’ve

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been riding for four years now. I started on dirt on a ’70s enduro, on old logging roads outside of Portland, and I loved it instantly.

I took a class and got my motorcycle licence, and bought a bigger 250 enduro bike.

My boyfriend at the time had a 1970s H-D® Shovelhead motorcycle, and it was frustrating riding with him, as I was on a much smaller bike. He also had a ’90s Sportster® model and said I should try it. That was a huge deal for me, since I’m petite and had never ridden a bike that big before. So I psyched myself up and took a ride.

I couldn’t stop smiling. I never imagined a motorcycle could feel like that; it was so powerful. I knew I had to have a Harley® motorcycle, and I knew it would change my life. So I sold my enduro and started saving.

One month later, Christmas was approaching, and my boyfriend gave me his Sportster motorcycle! That was two years ago, and I still have it today, although I’ve modified it. It’s amazing now, with lower shocks to drop the ride height, drag pipes, a new seat, and a

PHOGTOGRAPHY BY JOSH KURPIUS

beautiful paint job on the tank, which one of my friends did. It suits me so well now, and I love it.

Riding and creative pursuits allow me to truly be myself. Inspiration for both comes from a similar place. I’m influenced by the outdoors, and I’m lucky to live in Oregon – there are so many trees and rivers, and the ocean is a short ride away from Portland.

After a long day at Gem Gem, I get on my bike and just cruise. It gives me a rush of adrenaline and makes me feel alive.

Today, my illness is manageable.

Although there’s no cure, it doesn’t stop me from doing what I want to do. My goal for Honeyfox is to stay true to my own style, and as far as Gem Gem is concerned, I want to showcase one-of-a-kind handmade jewelry. I would like to see both businesses continue to grow, and maybe we’ll open a second store. But I’ll make sure I still have enough time to ride my Sportster!

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ENTHUSIASTS

ST ORIES FROM THE OPE N R OA D

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Proud moment

Here’s a photo of my stepdaughter, Sasha, in her wedding dress on her big day, taken in my backyard.

LARRY CROSS

Rockwood, Ontario 2

Future rider

This cute photo of a future Harley® rider was sent in by George Boboros of Stevensville, Ontario.

3

Post-ride selfie

Tammy and Rijan Selim of Whitby, Ontario, after a ride.

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EXHAUST

4

Cold War ruins

Patricia Dupuis of L’Épiphanie, Quebec sent in this photo of his Softail Slim® bike at an abandoned Canadian military base near St-Adolphed’Howard, Quebec. The base, which closed in 1987, is a vestige of the Cold War. 5 Fonzarelli in the making

Looking forward to meeting new friends on the road!

DENNIS WAYNE HUES

New Westminster, B.C 6

View of a lifetime

Taking in the beautiful views off the side of the road along the Cabot Trail on Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia.

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PATRICIA DUPUIS

L’Épiphanie, Quebec 7 Across Canada and back again

In the fall of 2015 I purchased a new CVO Limited. In the spring of 2016, three buddies and I went to Vancouver for a quick trip to break them in. They bought new bikes as well: a 2016 CVO Limited and a 2015 Ultra Limited®.

When we returned, my wife and I went to the East Coast from Saskatchewan.

Returning through the States, we were gone for five weeks – what a great trip.

KEVIN MCCAIG

Saskatoon, Sask

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EXHAUST

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#FortMacStrong

I am a fairly new rider in the cruiser world. Last year, I found a great deal on a 2008 Sportster® 883 Custom. I instantly fell in love with that bike and rode it all over Fort McMurray, Alberta.

Rain or shine, I found a reason to enjoy my Harley®.

As most know, our beautiful community was devastated by a wildfire that destroyed over 2,400 structures in May 2016. Sadly, I was a victim. My wife and I escaped with our dog and the clothes on our backs!

My Sportster was lost to the fire as well. While I was happy to simply be alive, I was an emotional wreck.

Thankfully, we had insurance, and one of my first purchases was a brand new 2016 Ultra Classic Low®. You can imagine how proud I felt riding through Fort McMurray on this beautiful machine. You see, riding bikes to me was more than just enjoying the brethren of motorcycle enthusiasts in my community. It gave me a sense of belonging and put me on my path to personal mental recovery. There’s nothing like the feeling of wind in your hair and the freedom from stress and worry...if only for a few hours at a time!

I owe much appreciation to the great staff at Harley-Davidson of Edmonton for all their help.

BRAD THISTLE

Fort McMurray, Alberta

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10 Winding roads of the B.C. Interior

Every year, a trip to Kootenay Lake is on my list as a must-do event. There is nothing like the fresh air, winding roads and wildlife! My 2011 Ultra Classic® Police Officer Special is now six years old, but it feels like brand new every time I hit the starter button. Remember to balance life activities, and try to find a little time each year for work.

KEVIN BRANDVOLD

Raymond, Alberta 11 Wrapped up in a neat little bow

9

For Valentine’s Day and for my wife’s 50th birthday, I bought her a black 2016 Harley-Davidson® Freewheeler® at Prémont Harley-Davidson Beauce in Sainte-Marie, Quebec, after our visit to the Quebec Motorcycle Show. For my part, I have a 2002 FLHTC that I bought in 2015. A lot of fun in sight, and, as they say, “Live to Ride, Ride to Live.”

RENE DESROCHES

Sainte-Marie, Quebec 12

Ontario smiles

I love touring the open road. I’m a new rider, season three for me. I cover about 25,000 kilometres each season even though it can be a short season in Ontario.

With my brand-new 2016 Street Glide®, it’s going to be pretty hard to leave my “princess” in the garage when I leave for work early morning July and August, as the commute to work is too long. But nothing beats jumping on my bike and feeling that workday stress disappear as I rumble away with coworkers all telling me the same thing – you’re so lucky!

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ALISON

Bowmanville, Ontario

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BETWEEN THE LINES

Mistakes You’ve Made (Part 2) Compiled by JOHN SANDBERG

T

he Between the Lines article in the December 2016 issue of HOG® Magazine Canada featured readers’ confessions from the road of hard knocks. Here is Part 2 with additional responses from readers …

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Don’t Pass the U-Turn My wife and I were enjoying a scenic ride down a two-lane canyon road, following a car for about eight kilometres, with both vehicles maintaining the speed limit. As we approached a straight stretch of the road, the car pulled over to the far right and slowed as if to stop, an indication to us to pass him. When we approached, he suddenly made a U-turn. I had assumed he knew we were there, so I moved to the left to go around. Big mistake. Luckily, I didn’t broadside him but instead was able to manoeuvre to the back of his car. We ended up sideswiping the rear of his vehicle but still went down while almost stopped. My wife and I rolled off the bike, so we weren’t seriously hurt. The lesson I learned is that although you expect someone who pulls off to the right to let you pass, never assume they will.

BART ANDERSON

Mead, Colorado

Beware the Backstabber A few years back I was riding my 2009 CVO Ultra Classic® motorcycle on I-44 coming out of St. Louis, going the speed limit, when I noticed a pickup truck rapidly closing in on me. My immediate thought was, “Holy smokes – this guy is going to run over me!” I accelerated, but, sure enough, he bumped into the back of me. Fortunately, he only pushed me on a bit farther, and I was able to pull away. I pulled over to the side, and he stopped.

The driver was very apologetic, but I wasn’t in the mood for niceties. He said that he’d been unwrapping a chocolate bar and was trying to eat it. Luckily, the only damage to my bike was two broken antennas on the Tour-Pak.® He paid some compensation to replace the antennas and to soothe my irritations. The lesson: Pay attention to your rearview mirror.

JOE PURINTON

Via email

Mind the Glare It was a sunny late afternoon, and I thought I’d wear my sunglasses along with the dark tinted face shield on my helmet. I was headed east, following three cars on a busy two-lane highway. The sun was behind me and glaring off of the chrome of my fuel tank. I suddenly realized that the cars I was following were stopped; I hit the brakes too late and rear-ended the car in front. Lesson learned: My vision was impaired by too dark of an eye shield, and the sun behind me made the brake lights less noticeable.

road signage and discovered I was on the wrong side of the road – I had come in through the exit! I immediately apologized and thanked her for not hitting me. Her dad calmed down and replied, “It’s okay, I’m teaching my daughter how to drive and had just told her to look out for motorcycles.”

I was clearly in the wrong, but road rage isn’t okay either. Now I slow down so I’m as aware of my own mistakes as I am of other people’s mistakes.

MICHAEL KOUTELAS,

Jacksonville Beach, Florida

STEVE RIGGS

Ostrander, Ohio

Off-Camber U-Turn

Spray Away I was riding on I-81 in a light rain, following a car, with another car behind me. We caught up with a slow tractor trailer. The car in front pulled out to pass, I followed, and the car behind followed me. When I was alongside the truck, the car in front of me slowed down; I was trapped beside the truck, getting the full benefit of its spray. Never again! Now I wait until the vehicle in front has completed its pass, then I accelerate and complete my pass as rapidly as possible.

BRUCE PRASHAW

DELL COLEMAN

Via email

Swerve for Attention

Via email

Watch for Others On a hot August day in North Florida, I rode to a grocery store for a few items. In Florida, the best parking spot isn’t always the one closest to the destination – shade plays a big factor. I spotted a nice space in a long line of trees and, without putting much thought into it, headed toward it.

Unbeknownst to me, a car came from the opposite direction. It was a dark colour that blended in with the trees, and I mistakenly cut in front of the driver.

As the young lady parked the car, her dad got out ranting at me. I glanced at the

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My memorable mistake was attempting a U-turn on a narrow road going up the side of a mountain 1,500 kilometres from home. I made the manoeuvre while going too slow, which resulted in tipping over. Luckily, the bike didn’t slide after I laid it down, and it only suffered cosmetic damage, but it could have been so much worse.

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My heart stops whenever I see a driver who appears ready to pull into my lane from a side street. When accidents occur in situations like this, many motorists claim they didn’t see the motorcycle, which is probably true.

My tactic is to swerve a little left and then right in order to break the plane of sight when they’re looking my way.

GENO McCORMACK

Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania

Do you have a story or opinion about riding safely? Share it with us via email at hogmagazine.ca@harley-davidson.com

H-D MUSEUM

60 Years of Sportster® Motorcycles The Harley-Davidson® Sportster® motorcycle has seen many changes over the years, but as it reaches its 60th anniversary it still delivers a powerful punch that lives up to its legacy.

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y 1954, Harley-Davidson no longer had to worry about domestic competitors. Indian Motorcycles of Massachusetts had closed one year earlier. For the first time in its history, Harley-Davidson stood as the sole American motorcycle manufacturer – but that didn’t translate to less competition.

The postwar years saw more open trade between the United States and other countries, which led to more foreign-built products, including motorcycles made in the U.K. and Germany. Norton, Triumph, BSA and others were making inroads to the American market. In many cases, their bikes were smaller, lighter and cheaper than Harley-Davidson’s traditional offerings.

In fact, Harley-Davidson was already well on its way to adapting to the new environment with the single-cylinder lightweights beginning in 1948. War reparations allowed it to produce 125-cc and other singles based on popular German motorcycles of the 1930s.

But the British invasion posed a big threat. Sporty bikes were selling well in the United States, leading HarleyDavidson to respond with the K model in 1952 and the KH version one year later.

Elvis Presley bought one (now in the Harley-Davidson Museum™), and they were the basis for the KR racer, one of the most successful dirt track racing bikes ever. The K models introduced swingarm rear suspension and foot shifters to the Harley-Davidson lineup, but even for their time they were considered underpowered compared with their European competition.

For the 1957 model year, HarleyDavidson announced the XL Sportster bike. It was based on the K model but offered increased displacement and replaced the K’s side valve cylinder heads with more efficient overhead valves. Its

iron cylinder heads inspired the engine’s “Ironhead” nickname.

The Sportster model was well reviewed and sold better than the previous KH models. Even before the end of 1957, the gruelling Jack Pine Enduro was won on a Sportster bike (with knobby tires, of course). Custom builders set to work immediately. A photo submitted to Cycle magazine showed a Sportster from the “California school of chopping.” The Sportster motorcycle had arrived.

“A Sportster bike won the Jack Pine Enduro and custom builders set to work.”

Just one year later, the line grew to two models with the XLCH, equipped with a higher compression ratio and race-proven magneto ignition. Riders of TT races and scrambles flocked to the high-performance “CH” model. The XLCH also introduced the 1948 model S gas tank to the Sportster bikes. In the years to come, the “peanut tank” would become a term common to customizers and enthusiasts of Ironhead Sportster models. The CH’s bobbed rear fender made a triumphant comeback in the 2010s with the Iron 883™ and FortyEight® models. Electric start was added to the Sportster for the 1967 model year, along with the promise of “Electrifying Fun!” The late 1960s and early ’70s saw a rise in motorcycle drag racing. Bikes built by private builders gained legend status, such as the “Super Sportster” and drag racer Leo Payne’s “Turnip Eater.” But the pinnacle of Sportster motorcycle performance was a cigar-shaped,

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4.8-metre streamliner ridden by racing great Cal Rayborn at Bonneville, Utah, in 1970. With only one Sportster engine and plenty of tuning, the motorcycle achieved an average speed of just over 410 kilometres per hour, breaking the world record.

The Sportster model also served as a dirt track racing platform. The first was the XLR, which saw most of its action in TT races, while the side-valve KR soldiered on at the oval flat tracks. But when a new dirt tracker was needed, the Sportster motorcycle lent its powertrain design to the new XR-750 for the 1970 season. Within two years, the XR-750 was logging not only victories but also the first of a record number of Grand National Championship season titles.

The number of victories and championships won by H-D racers on XR-750 bikes may never be topped.

Sportster motorcycles got even more limelight with the NBC television series Then Came Bronson. Disillusioned journalist Jim Bronson, played by Michael Parks, took to the highways of America on a 1969 XLH model to find the meaning of life. The series only lasted for one season, but the iconic bike is still revered by motorcycle fans today.

The most significant departures to date for the XL family came in 1977. One was the short-lived XLT Touring Sportster model, complete with saddlebags and windshield. The other bike was the XLCR Café Racer. Not merely a nod to the 1960s British café bikes, the XLCR was a radical, reimagined Sportster motorcycle. The rear fender was straight from the XR-750 model, and the new frame was also race inspired. Other changes were the sportier handlebar, a first for any XL, as well as the 7-spoke cast wheels and blacked-out exhaust. The XLCR model

continues to inspire into the present, including the 2017 Low Rider ™ S and XL1200CX Roadster ™ models.

The track success of the XR-750 model inspired the development of the 1983 XR-1000, a street motorcycle with a 1000-cc version of the original XR racing mill. But the biggest upgrade of the 1980s came with the Sportster Evolution™ engine. Like its Big Twin predecessor, the new engine kept the architectural elements of the 1957 to 1985 Ironhead but was a significant step forward with its improved oil circulation, ease of maintenance and electronic ignition, among many improvements.

Other landmarks came in the 30th Anniversary Sportster model (1987), the release of the first “Hugger” Sportster bike, as well as 1200-cc displacements (1988), the introduction of five-speed transmission and belt drive (1991), and the first 1200 Sport and 1200 Custom

Sportster models (1996). The 883R arrived for the 2002 model year, paying homage to Harley-Davidson’s venerable racing history with styling elements taken from the XR-750 bikes. As the Motor Company expanded in the 1990s, an all-new factory in Kansas City, Missouri, took over production of Sportster models.

The 2004 model year brought more big changes. The 883C and 1200C received an all-new 17-litre gas tank and other styling appointments. Both 1200-cc bikes received performance cams and high-flow heads to increase horsepower, along with wider rear tires. For better comfort, all 2004 Sportster models received rubber engine isolation mounts. New brake systems and lower seat heights, among many other features, were included on the 2004 Sportster motorcycles.

Upon their arrival, the Nightster ™ (2008), Iron 883 (2010) and Forty-Eight (2011) models revived classic Sportster

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styling along with chopper and bobber cues from the past. True to honouring history, the name “Forty-Eight” was a tip of the hat to the original peanut tank of the 1948 S model. The 2008 model year also brought the all-new XR1200® model, possibly the most radical Sportster bike built to date. With its inverted front forks, aluminum rear swingarm and an engine bumped up to 90 horsepower, the bike was engineered for performance, just as the XR1000 and the Café Racer models were in their time.

The 2017 model year marks the 60th anniversary of the Sportster motorcycle, making it one of the longest living nameplates in automotive history. The model has seen many changes along the way, but it still delivers a powerful and stylish punch that lives up to its legacy.

Photograph courtesy of the Harley-Davidson Motor Company Archives. Copyright H-D.®

150 DOLLAR RIDES

Twists and Turns in California Story by PETER HARALDSEN

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y friends Miguel and Byron and I are in the Marine Corps.

Since we were going to be leaving on deployment in a few weeks, we decided to take a ride down the Ortega Highway into the Cleveland National Forest.

This was my second time living in California, and I wanted to get another Harley-Davidson® motorcycle. In 2014, I had a 2011 Sportster® model, and in 2015 I got a brand-new Street Bob® motorcycle. More recently I bought a 2016 Road Glide® bike and was keen to break it in, so a week later I set off with Miguel on his 2009 Fat Boy® motorcycle and Byron on his Suzuki 750 (I apologize to you all).

The Ortega Highway is full of twisties that cut back and forth at a moment’s notice, and it attracts riders from all over. You see the occasional sport bikes zooming along, dragging their knees into the turns. I’d rather take a more subtle approach, and cruise and enjoy the ride. The weather was a perfect 21 C and getting warmer as we drove through the mountains, hugging the sides as we made the near-180-degree turns.

Our first stop that morning was The Lookout Roadhouse for some breakfast.

It’s a small, quaint establishment with a dirt parking lot overlooking Lake Elsinore. It serves the best coffee in the county, and, according to the waiter, its menu hasn’t changed in decades. That day Lake Elsinore was pretty low, but every time we stopped to look at it, it was just the most beautiful sight. We couldn’t have asked for a better start to the day.

After clearing our plates, we got on our bikes for the short ride to Hells Kitchen, a motorsports restaurant that attracts motorcyclists of all sorts. We stayed a little while to soak up the atmosphere, then departed for a 45-minute ride to Cook’s Corner. This busy establishment in Trabuco Canyon, Orange County, has a vendor outside selling leather, patches, bags and other rider accessories. The parking lot was full of motorcycles ranging from trailblazers to cruisers – if you were driving by, you would have thought a

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bike show was on. There were all kinds of custom rides, old rides, choppers, nice panheads and knuckleheads. We stayed a bit to enjoy the live music and have nachos, jalapeño poppers and French fries. There was heavy traffic and lots of stoplights on our journey home – maybe not the best ending to a wonderful ride, but my new Road Glide model was great. It absorbed all of the curves and was as smooth as a Cadillac.

I enjoyed every minute of our trip and would gladly do it again.

THE $150 CHALLENGE If you have a $150 Ride story to share, we want to see it. If it appears in HOG® Magazine Canada, we’ll even foot the

bill – in the form of a $150 Harley-Davidson Gift Card. Keep your story to 750 words or fewer, including a list of your expenses. We also need photography from your adventure, including a photo of you. Email your submission with “$150 Rides” as the subject line to hogmagazine. ca@harley-davidson.com.

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LAST STOP

Quebec by the Sea Story by DAVE GALBRAITH

M

y wife and I were planning to ride around Quebec’s Gaspé Peninsula to the 2014 Atlantic Regional HOG® Rally. Then, on June 18, she hydroplaned on the highway in a heavy flash flood and totalled her car.

Jan walked away from the accident but was off work for more than a year with concussion symptoms. Needless to say, our trip was on hold.

On doctor’s orders, Jan could not ride her Harley® until spring 2015, after extensive rehabilitation. We volunteered as committee members with the 2015 Atlantic Regional HOG Rally in Halifax, but it would be another full year before Jan was ready for the Gaspé trip and the Atlantic Regional Rally in Moncton.

We hit the highway on June 20, 2016, on Jan’s 2006 Softail® Deluxe and my 2005 Road King® Classic. It was sweltering, near 30 C, and a quick weather check in Amherst, Nova Scotia, showed high wind warnings. We headed into heavy gusts in excess of 80 km/h.

Through Tantramar Marsh, we rode in second and third gear along the paved shoulder, leaning into the wind.

The heat and winds did not let up, but we continued on to Miramichi, New Brunswick, for supper. When we hit our hotel in Campbellton, it was time to kick back and enjoy a cold beer.

The next day we were on the road bright and early. A quick trip across the J.C. Van Horne Bridge, over the Restigouche River, and we were in Pointe-à-la-Croix, Quebec. We turned onto Highway 132 and travelled along

the coastline with beautiful views around very corner.

We stopped in New Richmond to pick up the 2016 Motorcycle Tourist Circuits of Gaspésie booklet, then continued to Grande-Rivière, with stunning photo opportunities along the way. In Percé, we had lunch at Cafe de L’Atlantique next to the wharf before checking into the Riôtel hotel overlooking the world-famous Percé Rock and the beautiful bay with lobster boats, gannet birds plunging into the sea and whales appearing as the sun started to lower in the sky.

The early morning light woke us at 4 a.m. I noticed two photographers waiting for the sunrise on the beach, so I perched myself with my smart phone, and at 4:38 am, the sun was brilliant as it bounced off the ocean.

Within a few minutes we were on the road, climbing up and up until we hit the crest of a hill, with steep cliffs everywhere. There were many twists and turns, ups and downs, as we rode along the coastline towards Gaspé. We rode through Forillon National Park, twisting and turning through big hills and valleys.

Some of the hills seemed to touch the sky as we ascended, looking over the treetops.

A stop at Chocolaterie Couleur Chocolat in Sainte-Anne-des-Monts gave Jan a blast of energy, and she took off on a mission to the Riôtel Hotel Matane, where we watched the sunset from our balcony, sipping a glass of wine.

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We rose at 6 a.m. and discovered the beautiful mountains and scenery of the early morning as the highway followed the Matane River, gently winding through hills and valleys. We saw people fishing from long, thin canoes anchored in the river, and we stopped at one of the many covered bridges.

By the time we reached Rexton, New Brunswick, rain was coming down hard, bouncing off the pavement. The tire ruts on the highway were filling with water, with huge sprays coming from oncoming vehicles. We pulled over to wait out the storm, then continued on Highway 15 toward Dieppe and Moncton.

We spent the weekend at the rally.

Several friends rode to Hopewell Rocks with me after the H-D Dealer Breakfast at Toys for Big Boys on Saturday, then back to Moncton for the bike games and other events before the closing banquet dinner. Our chapter (Central Chapter Nova Scotia) won several awards, including the Chapter Challenge.

On Sunday, we stopped at the Aulac Irving Big Stop for breakfast before heading home to Nova Scotia. My odometer showed 2,092 kilometres when we pulled into the garage with a bucket list trip – the Gaspé – done!

I am amazed by Jan’s courage to ride her own bike all the way around the Gaspé Peninsula and all the work to recover from her concussion – it says a lot about the determination of a woman who rides her own Harley.

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