HOG Magazine – Fall 2015 (ENG) by Fresh Air Productions

for the harley-davidson enthusiast since 1916 ®

canadian edition

WELCOME TO HARLEY-DAVIDSON CANADA 10

Fall Touring Rides in Eastern Canada

» EARNESTLY SEEKING HEMINGWAY » TIPS TO CONQUER THE WEATHER ULTRA TAKES SERIOUS TOURING FURTHER » 2016 FAT BOY S AND SOFTAIL SLIM S

TOURING ONTARIO’S HIGHLANDS THE 2016 ROAD GLIDE

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IT’S ALL ABOUT DOING MORE WITH LESS. THE ALL-NEW IRON 883TM. THIS ONE IS A BARE- KNUCKLED BOBBER. REDESIGNED FRONT AND REAR SUSPENSION, 9-SPOKE MAG WHEELS WITH MACHINED HIGHLIGHTS, BLACKED OUT PIPES, ROLLED LEATHER SEAT, OPTIONAL ABS AND POWER TO BURN.

HAVE IT ALL STARTING FROM JUST $10,399*. HD.COM/IRON883 *Price shown is the MSRP for a 2016 Harley-Davidson Iron 883™ motorcycle. Dealer may sell for less. ©2015 H-D or its affiliates. Harley-Davidson, Harley, H-D, and the bar and shield logo are among the trademarks of H-D U.S.A., LLC.

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YOU DON’T NEED A LOT TO HAVE A LOT.

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» Departments

INTAKE Letters from our members.

FRONT SHOP

NEWS AROUND THE WORLD Tribute to Edmonton rider spurs outpouring of support; Marlon Brando’s H-D® sold at auction; 4 things your friends don’t get about riding.

46 PIT STOP Wind It Down: When high winds hit, dial it down and go with the flow.

BACKSTAGE Cutting Edge Opening: Harley-Davidson Rally Point plaza unveiled in Sturgis, South Dakota.

16 GALLERY Photo stories from the field. On the cover: The Fall season is just around the corner. Photo: Shutterstock.

45 BACK SHOP

Group Responsibility: There’s more to a group ride than a staggered formation.

Going the Distance: Customizing a 2015 Wide Glide for touring duty

Thermoregulation and You: Fixing the effects of excess heat on two wheels.

54 RALLY RIDES HOG® Canada Rallies and 2016 Canadian Motorcycle Shows

60 RIDING STORIES Road to Hana: Southern Ontario rider lives out his Hawaiian dream.

One Long Night: BC rider spends a rocky night in Idaho.

Salt of the Earth: Swift Current enthusiast puts her courage on the road.

Yellow Brick Road: Three Alberta riders take the H.O.G.-approved route to Texas.

66 ARCHIVES 50 Years of the Electra Glide®.

56 ENTHUSIASTS Rookie Blue: Six states, five family members, one new Harley® rider.

Grey Bastards: Brotherhood, foul tongues and the Alberta foothills.

BLACK LABEL: MODERN CUT WITH A VINTAGE FEEL.

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6 WELCOME NOTE Welcome to Harley-Davidson Canada.

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RIDE THE EAST ISSUE HOG ® MAGAZ INE CA NA DA

FALL 2015

» Features 22

TOURING THE HIGHLANDS Ontario’s best kept secret, but likely not for long. Story by Dustin A. Woods. Photography by Virgil Knapp and Dustin A. Woods.

MILE MAKER The 2016 Road Glide® Ultra model takes serious touring further.

30 ONE FOR THE AGES High style and high tech combine for a classic and comfortable touring experience. 32 THE POWER OF ‘S’ For the first time ever in a regular production model, you can now get the power of Harley Davidson’s Screamin’ Eagle® Twin-Cam 110™ engine from the factory in a pair of new-for-2016 cruisers: The Fat Boy® S and Softail Slim® S. 33 EARNESTLY SEEKING HEMINGWAY One Man’s Quest to Get Inside the Head of a Great American Author. By Mike Zimmerman. 40

BEST OF THE EAST Top 10 Fall Touring Rides in Eastern Canada. Story by Dustin A. Woods.

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WELCOME NOTE

RIDE THE EAST ISSUE

Welcome to Harley-Davidson Canada

You may be wondering: With such a long and successful history, why change things now – and what does this mean for me as a HOG® member? Good questions.

Harley-Davidson has enjoyed a long and successful history in Canada since the first Harley-Davidson® dealership opened in Vancouver in 1917. Nearly 100 years later, Canada has become one of our largest and most important markets. On August 4, Harley-Davidson Motor Company began a new chapter in this great story, directly taking over the sales, service and customer support for Harley-Davidson dealers, customers and enthusiasts across the country. You may be wondering: With such a long and successful history, why change things now – and what does this mean for me as a HOG® member? Good questions. As we strive to grow globally and be customer-led in everything we do, Harley-Davidson has been moving to a distribution model of selling directly to independently owned dealers around the world rather than working through third-party distributors. With this approach, Harley-Davidson directly manages sales, marketing, service and warranty operations, consumer events like the Project LiveWire™ Experience Tour that’s touring Canada this summer and many other activities through wholly owned subsidiaries like the new Harley-Davidson Canada, which is headquartered in Concord, Ontario, in the Greater Toronto Area. That’s the business reason behind the change. But what it really means is bringing the Motor Company even closer to riders like you, so we can better understand what you love about Harley-Davidson and how we can make your ownership experience even better. As a customer-led company, our goal is to build trusted and personalized relationships, with customer satisfaction as the highest priority. Our customers in Canada will continue to enjoy an outstanding Harley-Davidson experience supported by many of the same people you already know. We’re proud to announce that 100 per cent of the Harley-Davidson dealerships in Canada, all independently owned and operated, are continuing their relationships with us. This means no changes to the trusted relationships you already have with your favourite dealer. Further, all the benefits and experiences you’ve come to value as part of your HOG® membership remain, with one enhancement you might notice: All HOG® member service calls will now be handled by our North America call centre in Milwaukee (in both English and French), so you’ll now get the same high-quality, responsive service your neighbours to the south enjoy. As you read this, the new 2016 Harley-Davidson motorcycles are rolling into dealerships, and we’re very proud of the lineup (you can read about them elsewhere in this issue). I think you’ll also appreciate the move to bring retail pricing more in line with the U.S. market, making it more competitive in Canada. This is just one of the many ways we’re committed to increasing the value of being a member of the Harley® family. We’re excited about the opportunity to continue the great ride we’ve been on together, and I personally look forward to meeting you on the road.

Anoop Prakash Managing Director Harley-Davidson Canada

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INTAKE

FALL 2015 SUMMER 2014

LETTERS FROM OUR MEMBERS

EDITOR'S PICK

PACK IT IN

FoR The haRLeY

CANADIAN

EDITION

-daVidSon

enThUSia

ST Since 1916

HOG® MAGAZINE CANADA IS PUBLISHED BY HARLEY-DAVIDSON CANADA LP AND THE HARLEY OWNERS GROUP™ SEND US YOUR CONTRIBUTIONS TO: EDITOR@HOGMAGAZINECANADA.CA

HIGH ROLLLER PG

HOGMAGAZINECANADA.CA

2015 CVOTM mo hit the jackp torcycles ot in Vegas

CARPE DIEM : SEIZING THE MOMENT AND HILLS OF TAMW TOURING THE ORTH, AUST OKANAGAN RALIA BIG GUITAR PACK IT IN: COUNTRY: TIPS FROM THE ROLLING A WELL-TRAV GREEN ELLED RIDER -WRITER-P HOTOGRAP HER

UNDER THERE

I just read your Summer 2015 edition cover to cover and want to congratulate you for the excellent variety and quality of articles. HOG® Magazine Canada is always improving! Reading “Pack It In” on the eve of my season’s first week-long road trip provided great reminders and tips. “The Zen of Riding” beautifully describes the long riding experience. So many other fascinating articles. Keep up the great work! Bob Morrison, sent via email I liked your packing article in the recent HOG® Magazine Canada issue. I’ve been riding for more than 45 years, and you pretty much hit the mark. The only thing I would add to the list is the saddlebag gas cans I now carry with me on every ride. I favour back roads and the out of the way. Not every town on the map is still there (yes, I still use maps; not a big fan of all the electronic gadgetry), and

not every town has a gas station. This was brought home on a ride west last summer, where I took a route through a drought-ridden part of the country. Even with the big sixgallon tank on my FL, those gas cans made a difference for me and for a stranded rider. It also never hurts to have a bottle of octane booster with you.

HOG® MAGAZINE CANADA FEATURES SOME CONTENT FROM THE US, EMEA AND AUSTRALIA/NEW ZEALAND EDITIONS OF HOG® MAGAZINE.

PRODUCTION, DESIGN & SALES BY SUMMER

2015

SEE THE U.S.A.

$6.99 CAN

I just finished reading the article “Pack It In.” Good story. I, too, carry a lot – maybe too much stuff – but I’d rather have it than wish I did. Mike makes a good point about “under there.” While I don’t have any synthetic underwear, I still use my old backpacking trick. I wash my oldest socks and shorts just one more time, save them in a bag, and use them on bike trips. Yes, you’re packing a little more than with the synthetics, but at the end of the day you just throw them out – so as the trip goes on, you have less. Al Turner, Denver, CO

I usually go to three or four HOG® rallies a year with Karen, my bride of 54 years. Our ride is a 2013 Tri Glide®, so we have plenty of room for our extended trips. Still, most Retailers offer UPS delivery, so we ship home t-shirts, gifts, dirty clothes and so on to keep the bike light and have less to carry into the hotels at night. We also get to remember our trip a second time when we arrive home and open up our treasures.

I want to tell you of our appreciation for the great articles on riding in different parts of the United States. My wife and I are Canadian snowbirds with a winter home in Sun City, AZ, and have an extensive trip planned for June. We’re leaving Phoenix in May and going through Texas to New Orleans, then up to Johnson City, TN. We’ll be tackling the Tail of the Dragon and riding the Blue Ridge Parkway toward Washington, D.C. From there, we’ll go to Ohio and on to Chicago, where we’ll meet up with the Mother Road Ride Rally, which will follow the original Route 66 all the way back to Santa Monica. This will be our first trip of more than two or three days on our 2007 Electra Glide® Classic, an adventure we’ve been looking forward to for more than two years! Please keep the articles and ride ideas coming.

Grant Oberg Moses Lake, WA

Gordon Williams Smithers, BC

Dave Bingham sent via email

We welcome all letters and feedback to HOG® Magazine Canada. Letters should be 100-150 words. E-mail your feedback to editor@hogmagazinecanada.com and put “Intake” in the e-mail subject. Include your name, telephone number and e-mail address. We reserve the right to edit submissions for length and clarity.

WWW.FRESHAIRPUBLISHING.CA GORDIE BOWLES EDITORIAL DIRECTOR KAT MORGENROTH DESIGN CHRISTINA NEWBERRY COPY EDITOR DUSTIN WOODS SENIOR WRITER TYLER HUNT WEB DESIGNER PAUL SOLOVYOV IT PROGRAMMER Please direct any advertising inquiries to INFO@FRESHAIRPUBLISHING.COM We care about you. Ride safely, respectfully and within the limits of the law and your abilities. Always wear an approved helmet, proper eyewear and protective clothing and insist your passenger does too. Never ride while under the influence of alcohol or drugs. Know your Harley® motorcycle and read and understand your owner’s manual from cover to cover. HOG® Magazine Canada is published quarterly by Harley-Davidson Canada LP and the Harley Owners Group™. Due to various circumstances, some information in this issue is subject to change. No part of this publication may be reproduced for any reason without the expressed written consent of Harley-Davidson Canada LP and the Harley Owners Group™. By sending your submissions, you are giving Harley-Davidson Motor Company, HarleyDavidson Canada LP, the Harley Owners Group™, and their affiliates, the unrestricted right, permission, and authority to use and publish your name and city of residence, any photograph or image of you, including any statements you make, for publication in HOG® Magazine Canada or for posting on hog.com, without consideration or compensation of any kind whatsoever. You further hereby irrevocably release and waive any right, claim, or cause of action you may have against Harley-Davidson Motor Company, HarleyDavidson Canada LP, the Harley Owners Group™, and their affiliates, for compensation, libel, or invasion of privacy, or any other liability whatsoever. Harley Owners Group™ reserves the right to edit stories for content, length and clarity. With the purchase of any new Harley-Davidson® model from an authorized Canadian Harley-Davidson® Dealer, you will receive a free, full one-year membership in HOG. Always ride with a helmet. Ride defensively. Distributed exclusively in Canada by Harley-Davidson Canada LP. To find your local authorized Canadian Harley-Davidson® Dealer, visit www.harley-davidson.com today. ©2015 H-D or its affiliates. H-D, Harley, Harley-Davidson and the bar & shield logo are among the trademarks of H-D U.S.A., LLC. Printed in Canada.

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KINGS OF THE ROAD TRIP Roll up and save 10% or more on your room. Earn bonus points toward free stays.*

TO SIGN UP FOR THE BEST WESTERN RIDE REWARDS® PROGRAM OR BOOK A STAY, VISIT BESTWESTERN.COM/HOG OR CALL 1-888-292-2453. Preferred bike parking and free bike washing stations at 1,600** Best Western Rider-Friendly® hotels worldwide.

*Restrictions apply. See bestwesternrewards.com for complete details. **Number is approximate and may fluctuate. Each Best Western® branded hotel is independently owned and operated. Harley-Davidson, Harley, H-D, the Bar & Shield Logo, and the H.O.G. Logo are among the trademarks of H-D U.S.A., LLC. Best Western and the Best Western marks are service marks or registered service marks of Best Western International, Inc. ©2015 Best Western International, Inc. All rights reserved.

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FRONT SHOP

FALL 2015 NEWS

Harley-Davidson® World Ride rolls to over 19 million kilometres. Ride for sight. Marlon Brando’s H-D® sold at auction.

BACKSTAGE

Cutting Edge Opening: Harley-Davidson Rally Point plaza unveiled in Sturgis, South Dakota.

GALLERY

Photos and stories from the field.

The new 2016 Iron 883™ model

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FRONT SHOP

NEWS

Newfoundland

Los Angeles

H-D® WORLD RIDE ROLLS TO OVER 19 MILLION KILOMETRES Thousands of Harley-Davidson® motorcycle riders and Harley Owners Group™ members around the world flexed their freedom and hit the open road during the Harley-Davidson® World Ride on June 27 and 28, logging 11,966,614 miles, or 19,258,351 kilometres. Riders logged their mileage either solo or in groups large and small, and through a variety of dealer-led events around the world, united by a universal passion for freedom, adventure and riding. Riders from more than 75 countries participated in the World Ride, with the highest mileage totals coming from the

United States, Mexico, Brazil, India, Saudi Arabia, Canada, United Arab Emirates, Vietnam and Malaysia. After completing their rides, participants logged their distance directly onto the World Ride website and shared riding stories and photographs on social media sites like Facebook and Twitter using the hashtag #HDWorldRide. To learn more about the Harley-Davidson World Ride, visit h-d.com/worldride.

RIDE FOR SIGHT More than 350 motorcyclists invaded Gander, NL, in June for the annual Ride for Sight fundraising weekend to support the Foundation Fighting Blindness – Canada’s leading charity funding sight-saving research. Motorcycle rides, bike demonstrations, social activities, skill-testing games and, of

course, raising money are the focuses of the three-day event, which began in Gander on June 26. Charles Carr of St. John’s, NL, skilfully kept his 2013 V-Rod® Night Rod® Harley-Davidson on the narrowing path during the skills competition. It took several ride-offs, but in the end Carr was crowned champion. – The Gander Beacon

MARLON BRANDO’S H-D® SOLD AT AUCTION A 1970 Harley-Davidson® FLH Electra Glide® once owned by Hollywood acting legend Marlon Brando fetched a whopping $362,206 (CDN) at a late June auction in Los Angeles. The high price owes much to Brando’s fame – items associated with the iconic star

always sell well – but the fact that this piece of memorabilia is a motorbike sent the price into the stratosphere. Brando was a motorcycle enthusiast throughout his life, and he enjoyed long rides in New York, even after he became famous. His place in the biking hall of fame was assured in 1953, when he starred as the iconic biker and gang leader in The Wild One. He owned a number of bikes during his lifetime, but this was the only HarleyDavidson he ever bought. He picked up the Electra Glide in 1970, just before he started filming The Godfather.

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FALL 2015

THE GREAT OUTDOORS OR THE ROADSIDE MOTEL WE ASKED: Cooking a hobo dinner over a crackling campfire and then wrapping up in a mummy bag is the perfect way to end a day of riding for some, but others prefer the comfort and convenience of pulling up at a motel and curling up in a real bed. When the day’s almost done, where do you kick your feet up – and why?

Don’t Do It! A few things you should STOP doing with your Harley-Davidson® motorcycle, courtesy of your local H-D® service experts. CLEANING YOUR WINDSHIELD WITH A GAS STATION SQUEEGEE Your Harley-Davidson windshield is specially coated to resist scratching. But the dirty water at a gas station is like sandpaper. Plus, the chemicals can harm the coatings. Use a soft cloth and plain water or H-D-approved cleaners instead.

76% Room service, please!

24% Under the stars!

YOU SAID: I have this romantic notion of riding and camping along the way, but the reality as a female lone wolf is that it’s safer to stay at a hotel. –RUBY C. ... Dogs sleep on the ground. –TONY K. ... After 20 years in the military, give me a cold beer, a good steak and a king-size bed. Throw in a couple extra pillows, too. –TOM S. ... We can ride for three weeks for the same amount of money that’s needed for a week of hotels. –BYRON H. ... When I was younger, the most memorable trips were the ones where I only had some tarp, pegs, a sleeping bag, cans of soup, a canteen of water and plenty of matches. I miss those days. –ANONYMOUS. Our definition of roughing it is when room service puts us on hold. –MIKE R

TRIBUTE TO RIDER SPURS OUTPOURING OF SUPPORT IN EDMONTON When Heritage Harley-Davidson® co-owner Hob Murphy passed away last November after succumbing to cancer, riders and friends came out in droves to show their support during a Memorial Ride on June 20th in Edmonton, Alberta. Along with the Old Strathcona Chapter, the organizers planned a day that included a breakfast, a ride to Red Deer, and an afternoon of food and music. One of the first H-D store owners in Alberta and lifetime H.O.G™ member, Hob was a well respected and active member of the community. Along with his wife Autumn, he tackled the adventures of co-owning a retail store and was actively involved in the operations. “He was one of the hardest working men that I’ve ever met in my life,” said Heritage H-D’s Angela Martin. “He told great stories – sometimes 10 times over – but they always worked.”

Autumn Murphy leading the memorial ride for her late husband Hob Murphy. Photograph by April Snowden.

IGNORING YOUR BATTERY Today’s high-tech H-D® motorcycles put higher demands on your battery, and draw a tiny charge even when they’re not running. Make sure your battery is always ready to roll – and lengthen its life – by hooking up a tender between rides, especially if it’s going to sit for three weeks or longer. RIDING ON WORN OR SOFT TIRES One of the simplest safety precautions you can take is to make sure your tires are ready to roll. Underinflated tires can cause handling problems and premature wear. Worn tires lose traction and risk a dangerous blowout. Make checking them part of your regular pre-ride inspection. USING ONLY THE REAR BRAKE Don’t worry; you’re not going to flip the bike over if you use too much front brake. It’s not a bicycle. Give it a good, steady squeeze to increase your stopping power – up to 70 per cent of it comes from the front.

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FRONT SHOP

NEWS

BLACK LABEL Modern cut with a vintage feel. Since it debuted in 2008, the Black Label line of Harley-Davidson® Genuine MotorClothes® has wrapped rider-friendly features in an authentic and vintage style. The newest Black Label collection continues down the same road, blending a slim and modern fit with a retro, already-broken-in style. See motorclothes.harley-davidson.ca.

4 Things Your Friends Don’t Get About Riding:

1 & 2. Women’s Shirts

THAT A 1,000-KM RIDE MAKES BEER TASTE BETTER

The variety of women’s Black Label gear includes jackets, jeans, backpacks and a range of shirts, plus the LIVE TO RIDE EYELET MUSCLE TEE and PYRAMID STUD MUSCLE TEE shown here.

3. Men’s Jackets

There are multiple options for Black Label riding jackets, including this classically styled VINTAGE LEATHER BIKER JACKET. It’s built from heavyweight cowhide leather, with pre-curved sleeves and lightly padded back waist, shoulders and elbows.

THAT 103 CU. IN. AT 2,300 RPM MAKES THE BEST MUSIC

THAT A “GLOVE TAN” IS COOL

4. Helmet

The range of Black Label helmets for men include the LONE STAR ADJUSTABLE FIT HALF HELMET, which features a new Speed Dial adjustable fit system for optimal comfort.

THAT EVEN THE BAD SMELLS MAKE A JOURNEY BETTER

HARLEY® ON SCREEN

Harley-Davidson® Dyna Wide Glide®, Power Rangers Megaforce, TV Series, 2014

Harley-Davidson® Electra Glide®, Stingray, Movie, 1978 Harley-Davidson® Shovelhead®, Starsky & Hutch, Movie, 2004 Harley-Davidson® V-Rod® (VRSC), Team America: World Police, Movie, 2004

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COVERS THE PART OF YOUR BODY THAT CHAPS DON’T.

HOG® ROADSIDE ASSISTANCE: WITH THREE LEVELS OF SERVICE TO CHOOSE FROM, THERE’S A PLAN THAT’S RIGHT FOR YOU. HOG Roadside Assistance is there for you 24/7, 365 days a year to get you out of trouble in case of tire puncture, lack of fuel and even loss of keys. As a HOG® member your butt is covered when you need it the most. SIGN UP TODAY AT HOG.COM/ROADSIDE. *Benefit currently available for U.S. and Canada members only.

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FRONT SHOP

BACKSTAGE

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FALL 2015

CUTTING-EDGE OPENING

A massive crowd was on hand July 31 for the official chain-cutting ceremony to open the new Harley-Davidson Rally Point plaza in Sturgis, South Dakota. Located at the intersection of Main Street and the newly named Harley-Davidson Way, the venue is the cornerstone of a new 75-year agreement between the city and the Motor Company declaring Harley-Davidson the official motorcycle of the Sturgis Motorcycle Rally.

Photo : Brian J. Nelson

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FRONT SHOP

GALLERY

MEMBERS’ GALLERY

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FALL 2015

1. Steve and Rosemarie Braybrook from Kelowna, BC, at a viewpoint overlooking Lewiston, Idaho, during a trip to Las Vegas.

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FRONT SHOP

GALLERY

2 8

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FALL 2015

2. Ron Penner and his 2015 Street Glide® Special on a break from riding from Winnipeg, MB, to Vancouver, BC. 3. Stéphane Papineau and his wife, Julie Bédard leaning on the famous U.S. Route 129 in July 2014. 4. Ralph and Lianna Rubini, of Coquitlam, BC, on his new 2014 CVO Limited on his daughter’s wedding day in May 2014. 5. Joanne and Tony Martin, of Rogersville, NB, enjoying a ride on their 2014 Street Glide® Special. 6. Bruce Jewell, of Essex, ON, passing through Chesley, ON.

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FRONT SHOP

GALLERY

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FALL 2015

7. Paul Hurley stopping to take in the breath-taking view on Highway 66 just west of Bragg Creek, AB. 8. Two HOG速 members enjoy the fall colours during a ride with the Gaspesie Chapter. Photo submitted by Marcel Dumont. 9. Vince Reimer, of Mission, BC, with his H-D Super Glide速 Custom at the end of the road in Port Hardy on Vancouver Island. 11

10. A group photo of the Outaouais Chapter after participating in an annual bike blessing event. Photo submitted by Linda Fredette. 11. Lila Newsham, of Hillcrest Mines, AB, enjoying some R&R near the H&H Saloon. 12. Paul Power, of Middle Sackville, NS, maneuvering the curves on The Tail of the Dragon.

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Touring the Highlands O N TA R I O ' S B E S T K E P T S E C R E T , B U T L I K E LY N O T F O R L O N G

Story by DUSTIN A. WOODS, photos by VIRGIL KNAPP and DUSTIN A. WOODS

Riding a motorcycle in southern Ontario can often prove to be a frustrating experience, even at the best of times. Just when you think youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve escaped the mind-numbing colonial grid and stitched together a couple of nice bends in a row, youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re back to riding in a straight line again without a curve as far as the eye can see.

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ne can only imagine being given free rein to design the perfect motorcycle route, customtailored to your motorcycle, riding style and personal travel tastes.

O N TA R I O ’ S HIGHLANDS BY T H E NUMBERS:

23,840

square kilometres of unspoiled awesomeness to explore

7,000

lakes and rivers

618

heritage sites and buildings

9 provincial parks 1 Starbucks

y personal motorcycle mecca would include wide-open roads free from traffic and stop lights, with each unique route connecting distinctive small towns with local charm and friendly people with a total lack of pretension. Well, lo and behold, I recently discovered that such a place actually exists – and less than three hours from my front door, no less! Whenever and wherever bikers congregate, rides are recounted and tales are told of routes where smooth, serpentine roads can be found and enjoyed. I had often heard of the legendary Highway 507 and ridden it several times, but little did I know that it was just the tip of a massive iceberg. Located at the bottom of an area known as Ontario’s Highlands, the region is made up of six unique districts: Comfort Country, Haliburton Highlands, Land O’ Lakes, North Hastings, Ottawa Valley South and the Upper Ottawa Valley. Presumably carved out of the dense rock formations and vegetation by forestry workers with imagination and foresight, the roads through the region are more than suitably crafted for the dynamics of the 2015 Harley-Davidson® Road Glide® Special I recently piloted through the area. Getting out of Toronto proved to be the most stressful and challenging part of the trip. Exercising the dexterity of my left hand by giving the new hydraulic clutch the ultimate test, the mind-numbing city gridlock meant that I didn’t even see second gear until I got to the top end of the Don Valley Parkway. Getting off Highway 404 at Highway 8, I left the traffic behind and jogged across 8A to 48, 12N, and then 48 again to 35N to Norland, where I stopped for a bite at Café Diem, a unique coffee shop just on the edge of Ontario’s Highlands.

Continuing north on Highway 35 toward Minden, I couldn’t resist stopping at the Carving Gallery since they had a giant motorcycle sculpture out front constructed of reclaimed materials and called The Motorcycle Mama. The owner, Walter VanderWindt, a talented craftsman, has created a fascinating gallery of woodcarvings and a mystical playground to entertain the kids if you happen to be travelling in a minivan rather than on two wheels. I spent the first night just outside of Haliburton in a family-owned and operated resort called the Bonne View Inn, a lakefront haven that blends traditional charm with modern amenities. The ever-exuberant and hospitable owner, Andrea Hagarty, started working there as a 19-year-old student and fell in love with the place, returning every summer in between semesters until she finally purchased the place herself. She now runs it with her family. The traditional country resort on Lake Kashagawigamog offers modern lake-view rooms, great food, extremely comfortable beds, a fire pit and a licensed lakeside patio that features live music on weekends, so once the kickstands are down they’ve got everything covered that you could possibly need. Smooth, predominantly traffic-free roads meander and snake through wide expanses of scenic landscapes as you travel between quaint little townships that all have their own unique flavour and heritage. Unlike in the more densely populated areas of southern Ontario, you won’t find ubiquitous eyesores like big box stores, strip malls and franchise chains every 100 metres. What you will find are interesting heritage sites that chronicle the history of each region. Members of the Algonquin Nation make up a great deal of the Highlands, and are known for their harmonious interaction with nature before European settlers arrived. Paying homage to the past is an important aspect of the community’s heritage, visually demonstrated by visiting Zurakowski Park – a moving tribute to Avro Arrow test pilot Janusz Zurakowski that features statues

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TOP LEFT: The Bonne View Inn (Lake Kashagawigamog). TOP RIGHT: Haliburton waterfront. BOT TOM: The region offers miles of smooth, sweeping curves.

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and monuments, highlighted with a scaled-down replica of the controversial ill-fated jet. Touring Ontario’s Highlands can occasionally cause you to feel like you are travelling back in time because of the historical architecture, traditions and pace of life. Faithful to the customs of their ancestors, many people live a far simpler, less stressful lifestyle than we big city folk do. After this much-needed perspective, your shoulders can’t help but relax after spending a few days in the region. I met up with Madawaska Valley Councillor and fellow biker Carl

“Smooth, predominantly traffic-free roads meander and snake through wide expanses of scenic landscapes as you travel between quaint little townships that all have their own unique flavour and heritage.”

Bromwich while checking out the Barry’s Bay Visitor Centre, which happened to be hosting a weekly farmers’ market. When asked why the area is becoming popular for motorcyclists, he responded, “The natural scenery we have here, the roads that match a motorcycle’s desire for twisties and turnies and the history of the area that we are still living. This is not a fake history we’ve assembled for show.” He added, “People live history here. As you ride through each settlement in this particular area, people are actually living the same way they did back in the settlement days, but with modern amenities.” A surprising amount of cultural diversity is present in the area, which harkens back to those settlement days. Who would have guessed that the best Polish cuisine I have eaten in my entire life would be found at the highly recommended Wilno Tavern just outside Barry’s Bay? Speaking with friendly and hospitable locals in each area to find their favourite places to eat, stay and visit was part of the fun. Bromwich directed us to Old Barry’s Bay Road, a favourite route of his featuring 78 turns in 11 kilometres, which he has incorporated

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LEFT: Sunset at Lake Kashagawigamog.

into his daily commute. My most difficult decision over the course of this excursion was whether to stick to the main roads, which were good, or go off the beaten path to find the great ones – of which there were many. Having arrived at Spectacle Lake Lodge in the dark after another full day of exploring, I didn’t recognize the true beauty of the establishment and its surroundings until I awoke the next morning. Not surprisingly located on Spectacle Lake, just outside Barry’s Bay, the lodge is well known by snowmobilers in the winter but is just now being discovered by motorcyclists. The lovely owner, Sharon Mahussier, does her best to source local ingredients for the kitchen. “I like to help support local farmers,” she said. “But the added benefit is that we are also able to get the freshest milk, meat and produce because

it came from our neighbour.” Her restaurant also offers Muskoka craft beer and coffee from a local aficionado who delivers the beans the same day he roasts them. That’s fresh! From there I headed down to Maynooth, as I was told I couldn’t come to the area without visiting Algonquin Gourmet Butter Tarts. Next I headed down Highway 62 and made a right onto Peterson Road, which turned into Elephant Lake Road – yet another must-ride route if you happen to be anywhere near the area. I met up with Loop Road and stopped in to Olde Ridge Authentic Barbecue – a classic southern-style smokehouse that is well worth the visit. Owner Bobby Turner has been painstakingly refining his craft for years. Using local ingredients not only means that the freshness is unparalleled, but also that the flavours cater directly to the Canadian palette.

The slow-smoked, rubbed and sauced ribs were the best I’ve had in my life, period. Truly. With a satisfied stomach, I pointed the bike south, down to Gooderham, and then continued south on legendary 507 to Flynn’s Corners. The gas station there has become a popular staging area for riders on the renowned stretch of road. It is common to see bikes and riders of all shapes and sizes coming and going all day long, each sharing their favourite routes and agreeing that this area is a true diamond in the rough. Boasting a simpler, more relaxed and rustic way of living, people were friendly and happy to offer directions and suggestions for wining and dining without a hint of pretension. As the Muskoka and Kawartha regions fill up and become unattainable to those of us without trust funds, Ontario’s Highlands are currently the province’s bestkept secret. Considering all of the value the area offers to those who visit, I don’t see it staying that way for long. For more information: www.ridethehighlands.ca.

2015 Harley-Davidson Road Glide Special What makes the Road Glide Special, special? Absent from the Project Rushmore updated 2014 Touring model lineup, the Road Glide returned after a one-year hiatus in 2015 and is available in two versions: the FLTRX Road Glide and the FLTRXS Road Glide Special, which includes the upgraded Boom!™ Box 6.5GT audio system featuring a colour touchscreen and navigation capability, hand-adjustable rear suspension, Reflex™ linked brakes with ABS, the Smart Security System with proximity-based fob, a painted inner fairing and custom pinstriping.

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2016

MODEL PREVIEW

MILE MAKER The 2016 Road Glide® Ultra model takes serious touring further

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h en the Road Glide® model returned to the Harley-Davidson® Touring lineup for the 2015 model year, riders around the world hailed the aerodynamic advances of its new fixed fairing and the improvements in style, control, and power and infotainment that Project Rushmore delivered. With their sleek and minimalistic styling, the Road Glide and Road Glide Special models introduced last year are the hot rods of the Touring family – but for 2016, Harley-Davidson takes the Road Glide model in a different direction with the Road Glide Ultra. With outstanding aerodynamics and fitted with all the most essential touring amenities, it’s a motorcycle built for riders who live for the long haul. “We know that Road Glide Ultra riders historically put the most miles on their bikes, on average, of all our customers,” says Paul James, Harley-Davidson Director of Motorcycle Product Planning.

“So we built this bike with those serious long-distance riders in mind. With its standard 13.5-inch-tall windshield, no other Harley-Davidson model provides better wind protection – for both rider and passenger – as proven in wind-tunnel testing. That’s also thanks to a redesigned “rider triangle” (defined by the relative position of the feet, hands and hips), which adds comfort, reduces head buffeting and fits more riders. “The new riding position puts this bike within reach – quite literally – of a much wider range of riders,” James says. Other highlights include a premium lighting package, Tour-Pak® luggage carrier with luggage rack, Twin-Cooled™ high output Twin Cam 103™ engine, Reflex™ linked brakes with ABS and much more. All things considered, the 2016 Road Glide Ultra is everything you need to satisfy the long-distance road warrior in you.

ROAD GLIDE ® ULTRA FEATURES OUTSTANDING AERODYNAMICS New handlebar and seating position put the rider into a more comfortable position – out of the wind and within easier reach of the handlebar. With the stock 13.5-inch windshield, mid-frame air deflectors, fairing lowers and triple splitstream venting, the aerodynamics provide a large reduction in rider head buffeting. PROJECT RUSHMORE INFOTAINMENT The Road Glide Ultra is equipped with a BOOM!™ Box 6.5GT Radio with 6.5-inch full-color touch screen display, USB port for iPod/iPhone, navigation, voice recognition, Bluetooth and more. TWIN-COOLED™ HIGH OUTPUT TWIN CAM 103™ ENGINE Twin cooling circulates coolant around the exhaust ports in the cylinder heads to deliver at or near-peak performance under all operating conditions. A higher compression ratio and highflow airbox deliver the fastest 95–125 km/h fifth gear roll-on performance in Harley-Davidson history. Translation: amazing passing power. DUAL DAYMAKER™ REFLECTOR LED HEADLAMPS LED headlamps deliver improvements of up to 67% in spread (light across the road) and 25% in punch (light down the road) to help you see and be seen like never before. REFLEX™ LINKED BRAKES WITH ABS The Anti-lock Braking System (ABS) turns locked-up wheels into a thing of the past. And the electronically linked front and rear brakes make you a better rider by applying the perfect front-to-rear balance, every time.

“It’s the bike of choice for people who ride the longest and hardest miles, and the bike a lot of our riders have been asking for.”

TOUR-PAK® LUGGAGE WITH LUGGAGE RACK Roomy top box easily accommodates two full-face helmets with an easy-to-open one-hand latch. (The saddlebags also open with just one hand.) Packed an extra bag? Bring it. The sleek, stylish and functional luggage carrier makes it easy.

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2016

MODEL PREVIEW

ONE FOR THE AGES

High style and high tech combine for a classic and comfortable touring experience

hrough the years, no other Harley-Davidson® model has ridden a straighter path to the present than the Heritage Softail™ Classic. The model’s roots go back to the 1949 FL Hydra-Glide, the first Harley-Davidson big twin model equipped with hydraulic front suspension. Much has changed technologically since then, but you can still clearly see the influence of the Hydra-Glide in the Heritage Softail Classic models of the twenty-first century, which retain the iconic styling elements that have made the Softail Classic one of Harley-Davidson’s most popular models. On the surface, there’s no mistaking the nostalgic styling: Soft leather saddlebags. Iconic deep-skirted front fender. Wide, comfortable leather seat. Optional whitewall tires. Stylish “conchos” on seat and

saddlebags with red starburst inserts. It’s a look that never goes out of style. For 2016, it gets even better, with more power, key styling enhancements and a saddlebag full of touring upgrades. TOP-TO-BOTTOM IMPROVEMENTS Look closer at the 2016 model and you’ll notice that

those beautiful saddlebags have been reinforced with a new and improved support structure. You’ll see a new High-Output Twin Cam 103™ engine – which you’ll especially appreciate when you’re rolling on the throttle to pass. And you’ll see a switch near your left thumb to control the standard electronic cruise control – a feature never before available on any Softail model. Never before has a Softail model offered so many touring amenities.

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1949

TIMELINE 1949 FL HYDRA-GLIDE The inspiration for the Heritage lineup. 1984 FXST SOFTAIL First bike of its kind: “Hardtail” styling with hidden rear suspension.

1986

1986 ORIGINAL HERITAGE SOFTAIL The first FL Softail. Windshield and bags not standard. 1988 FLSTC HERITAGE SOFTAIL CLASSIC Bags and windshield standard.

1993 A CLASSIC TOURING ALTERNATIVE Even though it’s not officially a member

of the Touring model family, there are plenty of reasons that so many riders choose the Heritage Softail Classic as a long-haul option: › Seat: Big, wide and comfortable, it offers fuller support on long trips. › Saddlebags: No upgrade required to hit the road right off the showroom floor. › Fit: Seat height is just 27.2 inches, which puts it within easy reach of shorter riders. › Windshield: Great for riders who prefer an unobstructed view of the road (vs. the view from behind a fairing). Detachable for shorter trips around town or when you want to feel the wind on your face. › Passenger Backrest: Ready for a comfortable two-up ride, right from the start › NEW Cruise Control: Once you try it, you’ll wonder how you ever toured without it. › NEW High-Output Twin Cam 103™ Engine: Awesome passing power comes standard. Even better when you add Screamin’ Eagle® pipes.

1993 HERITAGE SOFTAIL NOSTALGIA A cult classic: aka the “Moo Glide” because of its black-and-white paint. 1994–96 HERITAGE SOFTAIL SPECIAL Like the “Moo Glide,” but with less cow.

“Even though it looks so familiar, this bike is truly ground-breaking in the Softail family,” says Rebecca Krueger, Harley-Davidson Motorcycle Product Planning Manager. “So whether you’re someone who’s been riding a Heritage for years, or are a newer rider looking for a little more touring comfort, the 2016 Heritage Softail Classic is a real step up – but one that fits right in with the history it represents.”

2000 TWIN CAM 88B™ ENGINE Counter-balancers added to reduce vibration from the rigid-mounted Softail engine. 2007 HERITAGE SOFTAIL CLASSIC New Twin Cam 96™ engine and six-speed Cruise Drive transmission. 2016 Heritage Softail Classic. High-Output Twin Cam 103™ engine. Reinforced soft leather saddlebags. Electronic cruise control standard. Styling enhancements. 31

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2016

MODEL PREVIEW

THE POWER OF "S" Has everything you want. And nothing you don't need.

or the first time ever in a regular production model, you can now get the power of Harley-Davidson’s Screamin’ Eagle® Twin-Cam 110™ engine from the factory in a pair of new-for-2016 cruisers: The Fat Boy® S and Softail Slim® S. We started with the idea that there’s no such thing as too much power. After all, who isn’t thrilled by the unmistakable rush of power and speed that follows a firm twist of the throttle? Next we took the styling to the dark side. To paraphrase Henry Ford, you can have the Fat Boy S in any color you want – as long as it’s Vivid Black or Denim Black. The Softail Slim S comes in Vivid Black or Olive Gold Denim with military-inspired graphics, an homage to the WWII-era WLA military model that so many returning GIs built into the stripped-down bobbers that inspired the original Softail Slim model. Each bike comes standard with cruise control, ABS and security system for comfort and confidence, creating a complete custom package that will turn heads as fast as you can twist the throttle.

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ONE MAN’S QUEST To Get Inside the Head of a

G R E AT A M E R I C A N AU T H O R Story and photos by M I K E Z I M M E R M A N

“There are only three sports,” Ernest Hemingway is often quoted as saying: “bullfighting, motor racing, and mountaineering. All the rest are merely games.” The words may be more legend than fact, but they capture his spirit well. Hemingway took his adventuring seriously and wrote from those experiences. He was badly wounded at 18 in Italy driving an ambulance in World War I. He was a war correspondent in the Spanish Civil War and World War II. He loved biggame hunting and was a deep-sea fishing pioneer. He was fascinated by bullfighting and ran with the bulls in Pamplona. He passionately loved his wives – all four of them, one at a time, though with perhaps a bit of overlap. Simply put, Hemingway lived large. He has loomed large in my imagination as a mythical figure, someone a Harley® rider could embrace, even though he never embraced a two-wheeled lifestyle. So I rode to Key West, where he lived from 1931 to 1940 and wrote many of his famous works. I wanted to see if I could get to know him better.

LIFE IN THE AFTERNOON First stop: the H-D® office in Miami, to pick up an Atomic Green Ultra Limited, c. 2015. Top of the line, like Hemingway would want it. I rode south, to the top of the Keys, where I was certain I’d find white sandy beaches and long stretches of open road. Instead I got heavy traffic and tourist traps. No problem. The tourist traps were actually charming, and filled with people from around the world. The beaches were there, just hiding. And the famous Overseas Highway, once it opened up a little, had an unmistakable appeal. The islands were alive. “If you want to know about a culture,” Hemingway once said, “spend a night in its bars.” So when I stopped for the night in Islamorada, I checked out the World Famous Tiki Bar at the Postcard Inn. I’m not sure what Ernest would have made of the coconut shrimp with orange marmalade and horseradish sauce I had for dinner. He probably would have preferred a big slab of fresh marlin. But I think he would have liked the laid-back tropical atmosphere. And the daiquiris.

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The morning ride to Key West was busy and enjoyable. The sun was out and so were the pelicans. Awkward and clumsy-looking on land, they were impressive in flight. Their great, long wings held them nearly motionless in the ocean breeze as they scanned the water’s surface for prey – or perhaps lost bait from the fishermen who lined the piers and walkways of the famous Seven Mile Bridge. They were just part of what made riding the Overseas Highway so cool. The Seven Mile Bridge, connecting Knight’s Key and the city of Marathon to Little Duck Key, stretches seven miles over nothing but water. That’s a good seven minutes of blue sky above and blue-green water on both sides, with barely any land in sight. It’s like being out at sea, with the Atlantic Ocean to your left and the Gulf of Mexico to your right.

A FAREWELL TO IRON All the way to Key West I saw signs offering fishing charters. On a longer trip I would have loved to spend a day angling for trophy marlin. But I had another adventure in mind. Hemingway liked to fish around Key West on his boat, “Pilar.” I thought it would be more fun to circle the island on a “personal watercraft” (PWC) tour. Key West is beautiful, but riding opportunities are limited. That is, unless you’re willing to swap your American iron for some Japanese fiberglass for two hours. I was. I did. It was incredible. I was concerned that the tour might be too slow and too tame. The reality was I could barely keep up with the group. My motorcycling experience was a plus and a minus. I knew how to use my legs to absorb the blows when the waves on the open ocean sent me and my ’craft launching into the air. But the throttle is where the front brake should be, and I sometimes tried to twist the right handgrip to change speed. And though I thought the ride would be a sightseeing tour, I couldn’t tell you much of what I saw, other than the wake of the rider ahead of me. The best part was when they turned us loose to fly around “the flats” on our own. I discovered that 65 km/h on the water feels like 130 on two wheels. It would be hard to exaggerate how much fun I had. Maybe my friend Ernest would have enjoyed it, too.

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THE SUN ALSO SETS Back on dry land, I quickly realized that a fully dressed heavyweight motorcycle was not the best way to see Key West, especially in full riding gear. The narrow streets were crowded with pedestrians, bicycles, scooters and small electric cars. All but the pedestrians were available for rent. As I rode down Duval Street, the island’s main drag, I passed galleries, cigar shops, souvenir stands, feral chickens, adventure outfitters, restaurants, bars, rental shops, boutiques, “ghost tour” guides and lots more tourists. At Sloppy Joe’s Bar, Hemingway’s old haunt, squeezing the bike into a small parking spot outside was easier than squeezing myself inside. The place was packed and noisy. The walls were filled with Hemingway memorabilia: A 54-kilogram sailfish caught by Hemingway. Dozens of framed photos. Newspaper articles. A gallery of winners of the annual Papa look-alike contest. And the bat that “Skinner,” a legendary bartender from the bar’s early days, used to “control his patrons.” Sloppy Joe’s began as a speakeasy in the Prohibition era; Hemingway himself helped make it popular. It opened as a legitimate saloon on December 5, 1933, the day Prohibition was repealed. I had envisioned pulling up a stool, buying a beer and chatting with a friendly barkeep about “Papa.” But that was clearly not going to happen here. I gave up and retreated outdoors, observing the lively nightlife from arm’s length. A front came through overnight, bringing morning rain and dropping temps from the mid 20s C to the mid teens. The change of weather put a damper on beach activities but was perfect for a self-guided walking tour. At the famous Southernmost Point marker, I ran into a group of H.O.G.™ members from Louisville, Kentucky (the Kentuckiana Chapter) riding bicycles. They had rented H-D motorcycles in Fort Meyers, FL, and rode down to Key West, where they parked their motorcycles in favour of four tandem bicycles. If they missed their big V-twins, it was hard to tell. From there I made my way to Hemingway’s home. A long line of people waited to get in, but they moved quickly. Soon I was on a guided tour inside. That the house still stands is remarkable, our

guide said, given that it was built 164 years ago on an exposed island vulnerable to hurricanes. The key is the dense, nonporous stone used in its construction, excavated from what is now the house’s basement (another Keys rarity). The one-acre property is also known for its dozens of cats, most boasting more than the usual allo™ent of toes. According to legend, they’re all descended from Hemingway’s original six-toed (polydactyl) feline, Snow White, given to him by a sea captain friend. But the real attraction is all the Hemingway history. The home is maintained much as it was while he and Pauline, his second wife, lived there. In particular, Hemingway’s writing studio looks just as it did when he spent his most prolific years there. The small room is separated from visitors by wrought iron bars, giving the feeling it’s inside a cage. It was hard to get a sense of how it would have felt to sit, perhaps gazing out the window waiting for inspiration to strike. But it was cool to see the Royal typewriter he used still sitting on that small table. So many famous words came to life through its keys.

FACING Hemingway’s home, as seen through the lush gardens that surround it. ABOVE Sloppy Joe’s was a busy place, inside and out. BELOW Below-normal temperatures left some beaches deserted.

TO HAVE AND HAVE LOTS Ernest and Pauline settled in Key West almost by accident. It was a stopover on their way back home to Kansas City from Havana in 1928. They intended to stay only a few days, but the car they were waiting for didn’t arrive for six weeks. Hemingway

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fished, made a few lifelong friends and fell in love with the place. A few years later, he and Pauline moved there with their two sons, Patrick and Gregory. Key West was home to about 13,000 in the 1930s. Today the population is almost twice that, plus thousands more tourists. It’s hardly conducive to a Hemingway lifestyle. Writers, after all, generally prefer to work in solitude. As Hemingway wrote when he accepted the Nobel Prize in Literature in 1954: Writing, at its best, is a lonely life.... For [the writer] does his work alone and if he is a good enough writer he must face eternity, or the lack of it, each day. Our tour guide explained that Hemingway suffered from manic-depression, what today is called bipolar disorder. When he was up, he was a fun-loving adventurer. When he was down, he was a surly, hard-drinking son-of-a-bitch. Both those sides likely helped produce a lasting body of work – powerful words that come straight from the gut. “There is nothing to writing,” he once said. “All you do is sit down at a typewriter and bleed.” In 1961, following a series of controversial electro-shock treatments, Hemingway faced eternity head-on. He loaded his favourite shotgun,

put both barrels in his mouth and pulled the trigger. He was not quite 62 years old. I thought about all of this as I rode back to Miami: back across the Seven Mile Bridge, past the Dolphin Research Center in Marathon and the Theater of the Sea in Islamorada, past the Key Lime Pie Factory and the History of Diving Museum, past countless shops, marinas, resorts and outfitters. I was intrigued by what I had learned about Hemingway, the man, but not satisfied. It’s too bad, I thought, not to be able to see Key West as it was in Hemingway’s time. Before the railway gave way to cars. Before air conditioning crowded out ocean breezes. Before Sloppy Joe’s Bar became SLOPPY JOE’S BAR! Maybe that would have given me clearer insights into what Hemingway was all about. Back in the ice and snow of Milwaukee, a thousand miles from the nearest ocean breeze, I knew there was only one way to continue my investigation: keep reading. “In the late summer of that year we lived in a house in a village that looked across the river and the plain to the mountains. In the bed of the river there were pebbles and boulders, dry and white in the sun....” (A Farewell to Arms, 1929)

A B O V E Hemingway’s inner sanctuary: the writing studio above the former carriage house. B E L O W One of the dozens of sixtoed cats that roam the property. R I G H T This aerial shot shows clearly how the Overseas Highway gets its name. Photo Credit: Jupiterimages

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KEEP FIRING ON BOTH CYLINDERS.

RENEW YOUR HOG® MEMBERSHIP. AND GET THE MOST OUT OF YOUR HARLEY-DAVIDSON.

Get the full-on, thundering Harley-Davidson experience with exclusive rides, a network of likeminded independents and a bunch of other perks that help you get every last town-cruising rumble out of your Harley-Davidson motorcycle. RENEW TODAY AT HOG.COM/RENEW. ©2015 H-D or its affiliates. HARLEY-DAVIDSON, HARLEY, H-D, and the Bar and Shield Logo are among the trademarks of H-D U.S.A., LLC. Third-party trademarks are the property of their respective owners.

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best

top

the

east

fall

in Eastern Canada For those of us who live in climates that experience four distinct seasons, the leaves on the trees changing colour often signals the end of the road for riding on two wheels. I am always deeply conflicted at this time of year because while it may be closer to the end of the season than the beginning, it is my favourite time of year to ride. Free of families travelling at a snail’s pace in RVs or minivans towing tent trailers, autumn also boasts cheaper off-season hotel rates and generally more favourable temperatures for those of us who wear proper protective riding gear. Not only can you witness the vibrant colours of changing leaves, but you also get to enjoy the crisp autumn air wafting through your helmet. It also makes sitting in front of a warm fire at the end of the day with a nice Scotch all the more rewarding.

Since I’ve been fortunate enough to have travelled in many areas around the world, people are often surprised that my favourite country to explore is my own. Boasting a vast geographic spectrum, unique history and distinct cultural differences from coast to shining coast, we are fortunate to live in a great nation just waiting to be explored. We’ve narrowed our focus to Eastern Canada for this particular compilation of routes in order to offer some suggestions on where to start. Rather than storing your gear and hooking up the trickle charger, why not set off in search of one more adventure before the snow flies?

Dustin A. Woods

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the cabot trail Nova Scotia

Featured on the bucket list of many a rider around the globe, it should come as no surprise to anyone that the Cabot Trail in Cape Breton, Nova Scotia, made our list. The smooth, serpentine roads meander through ever-changing landscapes and geographical formations. The scenic views from spectacular vistas can make it challenging to keep your eyes and attention on the road. The beauty of this tour is that it can be completed in as brisk or relaxed a fashion as you please, and it offers two unique experiences depending on which direction you ride it. The tip of the island is marked by Cape Breton Highlands National Park, 950 square kilometres of stunning highlands and coastal wilderness. There are many unique places to stay along the trail based on your preferences and price range. During my last visit, I stayed in one of the private cottages at the Island Sunset Resort and enjoyed the freshest lobster I’ve eaten in my life.

gasp� peninsula Quebec

Chosen by National Geographic Traveler as one of Canada’s 50 Places of a Lifetime, the Gaspé Peninsula (Gaspésie) is located along the south shore of the Saint Lawrence River in Quebec, to the east of the Matapédia Valley and separated from New Brunswick on its southern side by Chaleur Bay. The area offers a geographical education, as its rugged interior is a continuation of the Appalachian Mountains. Called the Chic-Chocs, these mountains offer views of the Canadian Shield from above the tree line. The northern shore is dominated by sea cliffs that extend out into the Gulf of Saint Lawrence to Percé Rock, the easternmost point of the peninsula. Circling the peninsula, one branch of Route 132 follows the coast, while the other cuts through the peninsula’s mountains at SainteFlavie. Home to charming coastal villages, covered bridges, many heritage and historic sites, and four national parks, the Gaspésie National Park follows the Cascapédia River, which is considered one of the 10 best salmon rivers in the world.

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avalon peninsula Newfoundland

Located at the easterly tip of the continent, the Avalon Peninsula is perhaps most famous for the brightly coloured houses in the city of St. John’s. In addition to being home to many charming and almost suspiciously hospitable communities – like Bay de Verte and New Melbourne in the north, Bay Roberts and Brigus on Conception Bay, and Gaskiers-Point la Haye and St. Mary’s in the south – the region features the Signal Hill and Cape Spear Lighthouse National Historic Sites of Canada. One of the first Europeaninhabited areas of North America, the area was first settled in 1610 and features a rich, fascinating history. Picturesque and infinitely photogenic, the southeast portion of the island of Newfoundland is also home to Precambrian fossils. Also prone to fog and precipitation, you’ll want to plan your trip sooner rather than later and pack appropriate riding attire.

ontario's highlands Ontario

Comprising six districts located west of Ottawa, the region offers smooth roads with little traffic that meander through scenic landscapes between quaint towns. Ontario can be a frustrating place to ride since the metropolitan areas are gridlocked with traffic congestion and roads were constructed using the colonial grid system, but the Highlands offer 23,840 square kilometres of unspoiled area to explore including nine provincial parks. While the area doesn't have the glitz and glam of Muskoka, it also skips the high cost and traffic congestion. The Highlands feature a surprising amount of cultural diversity based on which nationalities settled in which area. [Editor’s note: See Dustin’s full story on his ride in the Ontario Highlands starting on page 22 of this issue.]

the bay of fundy Nova Scotia

If you plan to attend the 11th annual Wharf Rat Rally in Digby, Nova Scotia, you might as well take some time to explore the local culture, history and scenery. Follow the world’s most dynamic coastline by riding around the Bay of Fundy. Consisting of a 270-kilometre-long ocean bay that stretches between the provinces of New Brunswick and Nova Scotia on Canada’s east coast, it is home to the highest tides in the world, as 160 billion tonnes of water flow in and out over the course of one tide cycle – more than the combined flow of the world’s freshwater rivers. Explore the national and provincial parks, UNESCO sites, national historical sites and provincial museums.

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prince edward island Canada

The smallest province, P.E.I. is known as the Gentle Island not only because of the friendliness of the locals, but also because it is essentially built on a sandbar. It is accessible by traversing the 12.9-kilometre Confederation Bridge from New Brunswick across the Abegweit Passage of Northumberland Strait.

the navigator's trail Quebec

This 225-kilometre road is the province of Quebec’s official scenic route. Following the Saint Lawrence River from east to west, this ride through the Chaudière-Appalaches region passes through five of the most beautiful villages in the province and offers numerous places to stop and take in the views.

thousand islands Ontario

The native people of this country referred to this area as the Garden of the Great Spirit. Located three hours from Toronto and Montreal and only two hours from Ottawa, this area offers beautiful scenic coastal routes and features no shortage of places to visit, stay, eat and drink.

the appalachian range New Brunswick - Maine

This route takes riders through a 400-million-year-old mountain range from the northwestern tip of New Brunswick, near the Gaspé Peninsula of Quebec, to Perth-Andover near the border of Maine. Visitors will experience spectacular scenery consisting of majestic rivers and the highest peak in the Maritimes at Mount Carleton Provincial Park.

the south shore Nova Scotia

The south shore of Nova Scotia offers the hustle and bustle of Halifax and the lighthouse at Peggy’s Cove. The area features winding roads that snake along the Atlantic Ocean through fishing villages, sandy beaches and rugged coastlines rich with magnificent vistas.

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ARE YOU TAPPED INTO THE HOTWIRE? EXCLUSIVE CONTENT FOR CANADIAN HOG® MEMBERS!

VISIT WWW.HOGMAGAZINECANADA.CA Exclusive content and access for Canadian HOG members! ®

Canadian Harley-Davidson news Exclusive features Rally rides and motorcycle event information GPS mapped out riding stories! ®

The Harley Owners Group and HOG Magazine Canada have taken the next step in the digital evolution. TM

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BACK SHOP

FALL 2015 PIT STOP Wind It Down Group Responsibility Going the Distance Thermoregulation and You

RALLY RIDES HOG速 Canada Rallies and 2016 Canadian Motorcycle Shows

ENTHUSIASTS Rookie Blue: Six states, five family members, one new Harley速 rider. Grey Bastards: Brotherhood, foul tongues and the Alberta foothills

RIDING STORIES Road to Hana One Long Night Salt of the Earth Yellow Brick Road

ARCHIVES

50 Years of the Electra Glide速

The new 2016 Forty-Eight速 model

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Wind It Down When high winds hit, dial it down and go with the flow. By Mike Zimmerman

s a writer for HOG® Magazine, I’ve logged more than a few miles riding

in high winds. Most recently, the crosswinds I experienced on the Overseas Highway riding in the Florida Keys (see “Earnestly Seeking Hemingway,” pages 34–38), kept me on my toes throughout the ride, especially on the famous Seven Mile Bridge.

Riding across Nebraska with the Lincoln HOG® Chapter in 2013, strong headwinds probably contributed to an “out of gas” experience. It reminded me of riding in flat and windy Central Illinois, where I grew up. The most dramatic example probably came last spring in Death Valley. Riding back into Furnace Creek with Lee and Jim of the Northern Nevada Chapter from a few of the valleys’ hotspots (pun intended), we saw an immense wall of dust forming in the valley to our left – headed directly into our path. We had already been leaning hard into the crosswinds, but when the

dust hit us we felt literally sandblasted for a few minutes. Shortly thereafter we stopped for gas, and it was still so windy we had trouble staying steady while we filled up. Through these and other experiences, here’s the main thing I’ve learned: High winds are really no big deal.

Relax. Don’t Do It. Now let me qualify that statement. They’re not a big deal if you know how to handle them. And the key is don’t overreact. Stay

calm, stay relaxed and don’t fight too hard. For one thing, remember that you’re riding a Harley-Davidson® motorcycle, and that they are tested in myriad realworld testing environments. In a steady crosswind, if you stay relaxed – don’t tighten up, don’t fight it – you can ride a long way in a heavy lean and hardly even notice. That has been my experience, anyway. Yes, things get trickier when a big gust hits you, but the same principles apply. Stay relaxed. The worst thing you can do is suddenly jerk the handlebar to try to counteract the effects – with the emphasis on “try.”

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The key is to know your motorcycle and know what to expect when the wind kicks up. Don’t let any of these factors catch you off guard. Remember your counter-steering principles. When you turn the handlebar to the left, the bike tries to lean, and turn, to the right, exactly where you don’t want to go in this situation. When a gust hits you, push on the handlebar in the direction the wind is coming from – but do it gently! Don’t jerk. It won’t take much to correct your course. Let the weight of the bike and its inertial forces be your anchor in the wind.

Prime Position Another principle to remember is good lane positioning. When you’re riding by yourself, you might want to consider riding more in the centre of the lane to give yourself a little more cushion. I just told you the wind probably won’t move you around as much as you think, but it’s good to have more space to maneuver, nonetheless. This is especially true on a two-lane road. Speaking for myself, I hate being in the left third of a lane when there are big semi trucks coming in the other direction. I’ll often move over to the right part of the lane to avoid their big wind wash – which often feels like it wants to suck you into oncoming traffic. Keep the road conditions in mind, though. The centre of the lane can be more slippery than the outer two-thirds, especially if it’s wet. And if it’s windy and rainy, that’s probably a good time to find an underpass or some other place to wait it out for a while. If you’re riding in a group or with another rider, give yourself the

following distance you need to ride in a way that you’re comfortable with. More following distance will also give you more time to react to objects or debris that may blow across the road. Be extra alert to this possibility, scanning the area ahead for things that could suddenly appear in your path.

Back to the Bike The kind of motorcycle you’re riding – or how it’s equipped – can make a difference in how the wind affects you. The larger the profile, the more it will catch the wind. But the same principles apply. Stay relaxed. Remember your counter-steering. Don’t overreact. A fairing or windshield is great for keeping the wind off of you in normal conditions but can also catch more air in a crosswind. Even wheel choice can be a factor. These things aren’t bad or good, just factors to consider. In any of these situations, again, the solution is the same. The key is to know your motorcycle and know what to expect when the wind kicks up. Don’t let any of these factors catch you off guard. Riding position can also make a difference. A more “active” position, with your feet underneath you, your body leaned slightly forward and your hands comfortably forward, gives you greater control than a more “relaxed” position. Feet forward, hands in the air, “ass on the ground” looks cool, and many find it very comfortable. But keep in mind that you won’t be able to react as well in high winds.

You may even consider leaning forward, tight against the bike, to reduce your profile. And sometimes shifting your weight slightly toward the direction of the wind can help keep you more stable. Finally, if you have any bags or miscellaneous items strapped to the bike, make extra sure that they’re secure. A bag that sits solidly strapped to your passenger seat under “normal” conditions may be vulnerable to shifting left or right in a strong crosswind.

Top Gear Finally, wearing the right gear will help make your windy ride more pleasant. Windy conditions kick up more dust and dirt, so don’t skimp on eye protection. A full-face helmet or face screen (on a three-quarter helmet) works great. Sealed goggles provide the best protection without a face screen. If you’re committed to wearing just sunglasses, make sure they have shatterresistant lenses. And are you sure you want to do that? Sunglasses leave lots of opportunity for dirt, dust, sand or even small pebbles to blow into your eyes from the side. In windy conditions, it’s often wise to cover your nose and mouth, as well. A simple bandana can do wonders to keep your lips from drying out (or at least slow the process), and keep dust and dirt out of your nose. Finally, cover your skin completely: long sleeves, over-the-ankle boots, a scarf around your neck – anything to keep the wind off, and the dust and dirt out. As usual, dealing with high winds is about reducing the risks involved, not eliminating them. If the wind ever gets so high that it puts you outside of your comfort zone, don’t ride. It’s always better to swallow your pride and be safe than let it put you in a dangerous situation.

Mike Zimmerman is a HOG® member and long-time Harley-Davidson enthusiast.

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Group Responsibility There’s more to group riding than a staggered formation. By Becky Tillman

ne reason many are drawn to motorcycle riding is the independence and solitude it offers. We like being alone with our thoughts, free to do our own thing on the open road. Even when we’re riding with one or two friends, we’re largely on our own – and responsible for our own actions. On a group ride, it’s different. We’re surrounded by other riders. Each of us is still responsible for our own actions, but the stakes are higher because each action affects not just ourselves but the rest of the group as well. Group riding requires a raised awareness and a certain amount of mutual responsibility.

With that shared responsibility comes shared satisfaction and enjoyment. Group riding connects us in a way that solo riding can’t. As a group of bikes rumbles through town or across the countryside, each rider is experiencing the same scenery, the same weather, the same road conditions and so on, even as each individual may experience them in a different way. This gives gas stops and lunch breaks a whole new dimension, where riders swap stories that are as fresh as a still-too-hot cup of coffee. Fresh perspective is what’s great about group riding. Here are a few things you should know to make sure everybody enjoys the ride.

Pre-ride The best group rides start with the best rider meetings. These don’t have to be big, formal affairs – just a quick “touch-base” to get everybody on the same page and cover a few basic topics, such as: › Hand signals › Fuel stops › Lunch/meal stops › What to do if you get separated › Basic route info › Construction zones › Ride leader/Road Captain introductions It can also be important to make sure less-experienced riders know they can stay in their comfort zone. No one should be expected to ride beyond their own skill level. Sometimes this might mean having two route options available, or putting newer riders in a group that doesn’t mind going at a slower pace or stopping more frequently.

Stagger Up The first thing many people think of regarding group riding is the classic staggered formation, where the lead rider starts on the left side of the lane, the second rider follows on the right and so on, back to the “sweep” rider in the final spot. This formation gives each rider room to maneuver, while also making the group a little more compact, taking up less room on the road than if everyone were riding single file. Following distance is key. Each rider should stay at least two seconds behind the rider directly in front – at least one second behind the rider in the other half of the lane. “At least” is key. Riders should feel free to fall back further when going through a set of curves or if conditions (such as rough roads or rain) call for a higher safety margin.

Togetherness One of the biggest fears of inexperienced group riders is getting separated – but the real fear is not knowing what to do. Make sure a “separation plan” is discussed at the pre-ride meeting. It’s generally best to limit the size of a single group to six or eight bikes. When groups get bigger than that the risk factors go up, and it becomes increasingly difficult to keep the group together. If your group ride is larger than eight bikes, consider splitting into several groups, each with its own designated lead and sweep riders. If a group does get split up at an intersection, the lead rider can make a decision to slow down (to a safe minimum speed), or even to pull over and wait, to let

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Passing

the stragglers catch up – but only if there’s a safe place to do so. Sometimes it’s best just to regroup at the next planned stop. If the lead and sweep riders have bikes equipped with CB radios, use them!

Crossroads Intersections present some of the biggest challenges on group rides, largely due to the uncertainty drivers have when encountering a group of motorcycles. Approach every intersection with caution, communicate your intentions the best you can (use hand signals and turn indicators), and follow these general guidelines: › At a stop sign or red light: Line up side-by-side, two-by-two at the stop. At a stop sign, proceed through the intersection two at a time, returning to the staggered formation as you pull away. › Left turn at a protected intersection with a left-turn arrow: Tighten the formation to allow as many riders as possible to pass through quickly. Don’t ride side by side; make the turn single file or in a tight, staggered formation. › Left turn at a protected intersection with no left-turn arrow: Proceed single file with caution, with each rider proceeding through the intersection only when it’s safe and legal. › At an intersection with a two-way stop (traffic light or stop sign): While waiting

at a traffic light, it may be appropriate to close up the formation and wait side by side. However, when the light turns green, riders should pull away one by one and re-establish formation. › At an intersection with a yield sign: Turn your head to check for traffic before merging.

Freewheeling You know how you sometimes see a car slow down to merge onto a freeway – and how crazy it makes you? Don’t be that rider! Your Harley® motorcycle packs a nice punch, so don’t be afraid to use it. Getting up to speed quickly is key to a safe group merge. Hit the ramp in single file, letting the lead rider set the pace. It’s up to each rider to keep up and to check for traffic as you merge. The goal is to keep the group together, but the traffic won’t always let that happen. If a car really wants that same space you do, let them have it. You can regroup once everyone is safely on the road and up to speed. Take a similar strategy when exiting. Fall into single file and avoid prematurely slowing down (which can cause an “accordion effect” as riders bunch up on the road). Every rider should use turn indicators; the lead and sweep riders should use hand signals, as well.

First, the lead rider should ask: “What’s the hurry? Do we really need to pass here?” Remember, the purpose of a group ride is to enjoy the ride, not to get anywhere fast. Passing as a group presents some very real risks, and it’s often better to hang back and bide your time than to put the group’s safety at risk with an ill-advised pass. But when the slow traffic you’re following is really taking away from the ride, and the road ahead is clear, pass with care following these guidelines: › On a multi-lane interstate and freeway: Pass in small groups of two or three. When traffic is light, the whole group can pass together, as long as all the riders clearly signal and maintain good following distances while making the pass. › On a two-lane highway: Pass one by one, only in designated passing zones, just as you would if riding alone. And keep in mind that passing can intimidate less-experienced riders. Just because you’re comfortable making a pass doesn’t mean everybody is. Err on the side of caution.

Sharing is Caring One of the nice things about a group ride is that everybody looks out for everybody else. But in the end, YOU are responsible for your own safety. Don’t let peer pressure lead you astray. If something is happening that’s outside your comfort zone or is making you feel unsafe, speak up. If your concerns are not satisfied, you always have the option of leaving the group – it’s better to be safe than sorry. But chances are that whatever is bothering you is something the ride leaders aren’t aware of, and it’s probably bothering others, too. By bringing it up, you create an opportunity to make it right. That way everybody wins. And everybody can enjoy the ride just a little bit more.

Becky Tillman is an MSF RiderCoach Trainer, Harley-Davidson™ Riding Academy Coach and Marketing Field Manager, Harley-Davidson Motor Company.

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Going the Distance

Customizing a 2015 Wide Glide for touring duty Just as no two Harley-Davidson® riders are alike, no two customized bikes will arrive at the same destination. To prepare this 2015 Wide Glide for long-distance riding, we outfitted it with a few key accessories, starting with a tall detachable sissy bar that’s perfect for strapping down a healthy load of gear. We also bolted on a set of new Premium Ride Emulsion Shocks to tame the uneven and frost-heaved roads so often encountered coast to coast. Striking a keen balance of style, sound, and performance, a set of jet black Street Performance Staggered Dual Mufflers with matching black heat shields were added, along with a retro-looking round air cleaner cover and a Stage 1 Air Cleaner Kit. Next we added mini-apes, black fork sliders and axle covers, some cool new grips and levers, custom clutch and brake cables and simple round mirrors – just a few little niceties to complete the old-school look. Noticeably absent from this laundry list of upgrades is a windshield, which is often the first item on a long distance riders. Installing one is definitely in the plan, but just you watch: The minute we install it, the skies will clear, the sun will shine and the wind will stay at our back.

Part No. Detachables Sissy Bar Upright —Gloss Black

51161-10

Stage 1 Air Cleaner Kit

29440-99D

Air Cleaner Back Plate Kit

29510-05

Smooth Air Cleaner Cover

29153-07

Screamin’ Eagle® Street Performance Staggered Dual Mufflers — Jet Black

80601-09A

Screamin’ Eagle Buckshot Exhaust Heat Shield Kit — Jet Black Rear Turn Signal Relocation Kit

65247-09 53968-06C

Detachables Docking Hardware Kit

54097-10

Premium Ride Emulsion Shocks

54000066

12-inch Fat Mini-Ape Handlebar Kit with Riser — Satin Black

55859-10B

Billet Handlebar Riser Hardware

63026-05

Gloss Black Front End Kit

45800010

Burst Collection Hand Grips — Black and Satin Aluminum

56100101

Hand Control Lever Kit — Black

44994-07

Dome Billet Style Mirrors — Satin Black

92423-08A

Diamond-Black Modular Braided Lower Brake Lines

41800076A

Diamond-Black Modular Braided Upper Brake Lines

41800112A

Diamond-Black Braided Throttle and Idle Control Cables

38957-09

Diamond-Black Braided Clutch Cables

38975-10

Headlamp Trim Ring — Gloss Black

67700116

Front Turn Signal Relocation Kit

69433-08A

Bullet Turn Signal Lens Kit

69208-09

Front Axle Nut Covers — Gloss Black

41088-09

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Thermoregulation and You Fighting the effects of excess heat on two wheels. By Mike Zimmerman

he human body has a remarkable thermoregulation system. Under most circumstances, it does a great job of keeping your innards at an ideal 37 degrees C. Not 36, not 38: 37. When things outside your body get too hot or too cold, it has ways to accommodate.

Your Body is Hot Understanding how to cool your body properly starts with understanding how it maintains such a consistent inner temperature. You might wonder: If our body temperature is 37 degrees, why are we so comfortable at “room temperature”? Simply put, it’s because the chemical reactions occurring inside your body are continuously producing heat, which must be dissipated. At 20 or so degrees, wearing a modest amount of clothing, your body

sheds heat at the same rate it produces it. When you start moving around, your body generates more heat. You start to feel warm as your body tries to cool down. The same thing happens when the ambient temperature goes up. If the air conditioner breaks, and the room temperature rises to, say, 30 degrees, your skin doesn’t cool as effectively, so your body finds other ways to shed the excess heat.

The first thing it does is sweat. Glands in the skin secrete moisture, which draws heat from the body through evaporation. That’s why the phrase “it’s a dry heat” really does have meaning. In the desert, this process works quite efficiently. Sweat evaporates from your skin before you even know it’s there, taking excess heat with it. If you find yourself thinking, “I’m not even sweating!” – you are, you just don’t feel it. In more humid environments, your body sweats, but the air is already so moist it can’t evaporate easily. And if it

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can’t evaporate, it can’t do its job. The sweat stays on your body, along with the heat, making you feel hot, sticky and uncomfortable. Your body is also cooled through “convection.” Scientifically speaking, this means the removal of heat through the circulation of air. Motorcycle-ly speaking, this is that wind-in-your-face feeling we all love. And in the heat, the wind can be a lifesaver.

In the Heat of the Day Let’s say your plan for the day is an 800-kilometre ride across the desert. Your first heat-fighting measure is to start early, when it’s cooler. In fact, you may even need to bundle up a little to start; it can get really chilly overnight in the desert. Dress in layers that can be shed easily as things heat up. Ideally, the layer next to your skin should be a breathable synthetic that will draw moisture from your skin. A long-sleeve (more on that in a moment) synthetic tee is a great choice. Layer up from there, as needed. If it’s nice and chilly, a top layer that breaks the wind may be necessary. In warm weather, a mesh jacket over-layered with a rain jacket in cooler morning air works well. Now, as the temperature rises throughout the day, you can shed layers as needed. But don’t take off too much. In blazing heat, it may be tempting to strip down to your T-shirt or less, but covering up can actually help you stay cool. For starters, exposed skin dries out very quickly in the sun and wind. Yes, this can help with the cooling effect, but it

also makes it harder to keep your body hydrated. Keeping your arms covered (remember that synthetic long-sleeve T-shirt) helps reflect the heat of the sun, prevents sunburn and helps keep your sweat from evaporating too quickly.

Fabulous Fluids Which brings up another crucial point: stay hydrated! This may be the single most important thing you must do when riding in the heat, not just to keep you comfortable but to keep you safe. When your body becomes dehydrated, bad things start to happen. So always pack water or a good thirst quencher, like a sports drink. I like to start with a big bottle of sports drink and then refill that with water when it’s empty. Stop more frequently than you otherwise might and drink each time. The cliché is that you should “drink before you feel thirsty” – but it’s a cliché because it’s true. The effects of heat stress can sneak up on you. With that in mind, if you start feeling a little weary, hang out in the air conditioning for a while; it’s best not to hurry when the heat’s on. And be alert for other signs of heat stress. According to the U.S. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, these can include: › Heavy sweating › Extreme weakness or fatigue › Dizziness, confusion › Nausea › Clammy, moist skin › Pale or flushed complexion › Muscle cramps

… stay hydrated! This may be the single most important thing you must do when riding in the heat. Not just to keep you comfortable but to keep you safe. When your body becomes dehydrated, bad things start to happen.

› Slightly elevated body temperature › Fast and shallow breathing If you should ever start to feel dizzy or lightheaded while riding, pull over safely as quickly as you can. Find some shade or air conditioning, and get hydrated. If symptoms persist, pour water over your head and neck. Elevate your feet to help increase blood flow to your brain. Get help if you need it. And don’t go back out on the road until you’re 100 per cent sure you’re recovered. If your symptoms are serious, it’s probably best to stop for the night.

Tools of the Trade Beyond the mesh jacket and long-sleeve T-shirt, other gear choices can help you keep cool. Something as simple as a wet bandana around your neck or under your helmet can do wonders. Soaking your T-shirt helps a lot. If you ride in high temperatures frequently, consider investing in a “hydration vest” lined with crystals that absorb and hold water to keep you cool while you ride. Many of the newer Harley-Davidson® Touring models have vents that open and close, allowing you to control the amount of air that flows across your body. Many fullface helmets also have adjustable vents. Remember, both you and your Harley® motorcycle are air-cooled. When you’re stuck in traffic, the airflow stops. If it looks like a long delay, sometimes it’s best to get off the road and wait it out. And make sure to keep up with your oil changes to protect your engine. Finally, don’t forget to use sunscreen on any exposed skin, especially covering spots like the back of your neck, the backs of your hands, or that little gap you might have between your gloves and the ends of your sleeves. Your body does a great job of cooling itself. With a little help, it can do even better, and make the hottest rides safer and more comfortable.

Mike Zimmerman is a HOG® member and long-time Harley-Davidson enthusiast.

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H.O.G.® CANADA

RALLIES

2016

Stay tuned to the next HOTWIRE! for updates on 2016 venues and dates.

Western Regional HOG® Rally westernregionalrally.hog.com

Quebec Regional H.O.G.® Rally quebecregionalrally.hog.com

Prairie Regional HOG® Rally prairieregionalrally.hog.com

Atlantic Regional HOG® Rally atlanticregionalrally.hog.com

Ontario Regional HOG® Rally ontarioregionalrally.hog.com

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2016 CANADIAN

MOTORCYCLE SHOWS

The Motorcycle Show: Calgary, Alberta January 8–10, 2016 calgarymotorcycleshow.ca The Motorcycle & ATV Show: Edmonton, Alberta January 15–17, 2016 edmontonmotorcycleshow.ca The Motorcycle Show: Vancouver, BC January 22–24, 2016 vancouvermotorcycleshow.ca The Motorcycle & ATV Show: Quebec City, Quebec February 5–7, 2016 quebecmotorcycleshow.ca The Motorcycle & ATV Show: Moncton, New Brunswick February 12–14, 2016 monctonmotorcycleshow.ca The Motorcycle Show: Toronto, Ontario February 19–21, 2016 www.torontomotorcycleshow.ca The Motorcycle Show: Montreal, Quebec February 26–28, 2016 www.montrealmotorcycleshow.ca

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ROOKIE BLUE

Six states, five family members, one new Harley® rider. By Tracey Teichroeb

his year, my husband (Adam Shepherd), my father-in-law (Mike Shepherd), my parents and I took off on the adventure of a lifetime on an 18-day road trip, my first long-distance ride. Both Adam and Mike already owned Harleys, and three weeks before our planned departure, I decided to upgrade to a new (used) bike – my first Harley! At the time this seemed like a great idea, since I had three weeks to get comfortable on it. But the time flew by, and I found myself extremely nervous the day we left. The trip began with me learning to trust my bike, and thankfully it wasn’t long before I was in love with it. With Adam, Mike and I on the Harleys and my parents driving our pilot car (dubbed “the camel” since they carried most of my luggage), we travelled from Prince George down the Oregon coast to San Francisco and then headed east through Yosemite to Las Vegas. The 6,228-kilometre trip took us through six states. We crossed off numerous bucket list items, including cruising through the majestic redwoods and visiting Alcatraz and Las Vegas – where Mike married his long-term girlfriend in the Elvis Chapel. We also saw the Hoover Dam, the Grand Canyon, Grand Coulee Dam and many other beautiful sights. It was a wonderful trip, and we came home with unforgettable memories.

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GREY BASTARDS

Brotherhood, foul tongues and the Alberta foothills: Recipe for a great ride.

By Gordie Bowles. Photographs by Doug Cook.

If you look closely enough on the back roads of Calgary, AB, on a Wednesday afternoon – along the Cowboy Trail or other offshoot roads that border the foothills – you might catch a glimpse of a few grey-haired riders with laughter, quaffs of foul air and bad language trailing behind them like puffs of smoke. Think the 1960s sitcom The Beverly Hillbillies with Jed and Jethro leading the way. If you look even closer, you will likely see ear-to-ear grins on this group of family and friends riding for the love of riding.

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he quasi-riding group The Grey Bastards Motorcycle Club was founded on the friendship of two 70-something pals, Bill Cook and Jack McGillivray, along will Bill’s son Doug. “It’s really special time to ride every week with my Dad,” said Doug, 39. “Life is short, and people don’t often have the luxury to spend quality time like this; these are special moments, and it really has become a bonding mechanism for us.” The group of five riders – Bill, Doug, Jack and new members John Wollersheim and Rick Graham – all meet the “criteria” to join the club: primarily that they have grey hair, the aches and pains of old men and the ability to laugh – and, of course, that they ride. “We take short rides deep south on Highway 22 behind Bragg Creek and Priddis,” Doug explains. “We have great views of the mountains and we log all the trips on our website. After riding for an hour or so we stop for lunch and talk shop, which is usually like the colour of a new seat.” Like all Harley® enthusiasts, the younger Cook, who manages the furniture store Ethan Allen in Calgary, says the regular rides help clear his mind. “Riding allows us to let go of stress, that’s a part of it. Cell phones don’t work, so it is just us out there. I bring my GoPro (camera) along with us to capture some of the moments and share them with others.” The group had some recent bad news to contend with when

To escape from everyday stresses and be close to completely useless to society. Exceptions are the purchasing of gasoline for bikes and burgers for bellies.

Rick became ill; he is currently undergoing chemotherapy treatment. Doug explains that the group has talked about long rides or even a destination trip, but for now they prefer to stay close to home so that Rick can join when he is able. The Grey Bastards seem to have figured out a nice recipe for coping with life’s peaks and valleys: One part burping and swearing plus two parts eating and laughing adds up to a dish – and ride – to enjoy.

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THE ROAD TO HANA Southern Ontario rider lives out his Hawaiian dream.

By Bill Sipes

I’ve been a HOG® member since 2011, when I bought my first Harley®, a new Road Glide® Custom with the 103 Engine. I’ve often thought of sending in a picture or story to the magazine, but didn’t think I did any riding worth submitting. Well, that changed in May 2015.

was lucky enough to visit Maui for a week through my work and was able to bring my son Lee. I’ve always wanted to visit Hawaii but had never had the chance. (From Southern Ontario, it sure does take a long time to get there!) Since Lee is an even bigger bike fanatic than I am – he’s presently got a 2001 Custom Softail® and a 1964 Panhead project bike that he’s looking to get back on the road – I reserved a Fat Boy® Low and a Breakout® for us at the Harley Retailer in Lahaina.

We picked up the bikes at about 4 p.m. on our first full day on the island and headed to what they call “upcountry,” in the middle of the island, rather than around the coastal areas. Maui has some big hills formed by volcanoes, so we found some neat areas and views and took some great pictures. The following day we got up early, as we wanted to spend the full day riding. We had heard that if you’re going to do a drive on Maui, you need to ride the road to Hana. It starts out pretty tame, with

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FALL 2015 some curves and hills and some fantastic views – but it doesn’t take long for it to become absolutely unbelievable. It is only 84 kilometres from Kahului to Hana, but with 620 curves (most of them hairpin turns) and 59 bridges (most of them one way), it takes a minimum of two to four hours. The speed limit of 25–30 kilometres per hour also helps keep the vehicles on the road and not flying off the cliffs. You might think going that slowly is boring on a bike, but with the number of turns, blind corners, single lane bridges and incredible views, you’re working hard and the time flies by. Many people do the drive in a car, but I was much happier on the bikes. The road is not wide, and being on the bikes gave us more room and just felt right.

We had no issues if a vehicle was coming the other way, whereas many people in cars passed each other with less than a foot between them. The road to Hana has many great views, but one of the best is at Ho’okipa Beach – where there appeared to be a least a couple of hundred people surfing. We carried on to see waterfalls, deep canyons and lots of lush forest – it was just an absolutely incredible ride. But make no mistake, the drive is relentless. With so many curves, there isn’t any time to relax: There are no nice long straightaways. I was told the standard forecast for Hawaii is 25–30 C and breezy, and they are right on the breezy part – be prepared for the wind. The trade winds

can be quite strong at times, and if I had to name any negatives about any of the riding we did, having to battle some strong winds would be the only one. After we finished the road to Hana, we were exhausted.

It starts out pretty tame, with some curves and hills and some fantastic views – but it doesn’t take long for it to become absolutely unbelievable.

Sitting back at the hotel, our conversation turned to the North Carolina road called Deals Gap or Tail of the Dragon – a road we haven’t ridden yet but that is definitely on the todo list. My son was comparing

some of the stats and noticed it has only 318 curves compared to the 620 on the road to Hana. He said, “Dad, compared to the road to Hana, the Tail of the Dragon will seem like driving through a McDonald’s drivethrough!” That definitely got me laughing. Being able to experience the ride with my son is something I won’t forget. While there wasn’t much opportunity to talk to each other unless we were stopped at one of the numerous interesting lookouts, it was a pretty special feeling looking in the mirror and seeing him following me. If you ever get to Maui, do yourself a favour and rent a Harley to ride the road to Hana. I suggest you ride solo, as with the number of turns – well, let’s just say you’d better be on your game if you take a passenger. Once you ride the road to Hana, you’ll know where the saying “Holy Hannah” comes from. I was whispering it most of the time I was on the road.

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ONE LONG NIGHT

BC rider spends a rocky night in Idaho.

By Brian Anderson

When I head out for a motorbike field trip – something I do several times a year on my Moroccan Gold Switchback® 2014, named “Blanche” – I always bring my Hennessy hammock along to camp. The Hennessey is normally the best sleep you can have outdoors, but on a recent seven-day, 3,500 km return trip from my home in White Rock, BC, to the Craters of the Moon National Monument in southern Idaho, it didn’t work out that way.

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FALL 2015

y normal routine riding in the late afternoon is to find a grocery store to buy a pre-mixed salad, a bit of fruit, water and wine. In Challis, ID, northeast of Sun Valley, I stopped at Lamb’s Foodtown for these supplies and drove on to the Pioneer Motel and RV Park to camp. At the park, I explained the requirements for setting up my hammock to the acting manager – let’s call him Duval – and pointed out a couple of trees in a small grassy area that would be ideal. I set up, had my prepared salad with a glass of wine and retired to the hammock with my e-reader. Overnight, I was restless, gassy and had a building

headache. At about one o’clock I got up and took some Tylenol, which did not resolve anything. By two-thirty, I felt like I was either going to mess myself or throw up. At three o’clock I threw up – the lesser evil – and maneuvered back into the hammock feeling a bit better now that the poison food was on the lawn. At four o’clock the lawn sprinklers came on. At first I thought it was rain, but of course rain comes from above. Sprinklers shoot water up from the ground, under the hammock fly, where it bounces right off and lands on your face. You cannot “leap”

The variety and thrill of riding Idaho is outstanding. Craters of the Moon is geologically fascinating, set in wonderful rolling countryside, unique and hot.

out of a hammock, but I leapt nevertheless. The Pioneer Motel and RV Park office was dark and locked, of course, but Duval was living upstairs. The emergency number woke him, eventually. By the time he turned off the lawn watering, the Hennessey had accumulated 10 cm of water, with my sleeping bag, riding jacket, pillow and gear floating on top. Duval assured me that the lawn watering had been turned off, but evidently not. We discussed, in an animated way, how best to deal with the soaked nylon hammock, the dripping downfilled bag, and my e-reader. The happy ending is that Duval was willing and gracious, helping me to use both dryers in the motel and even giving me an hour’s rest in a guest room on the second floor. I left Challis at 10 a.m. feeling dull but dry. The variety and thrill of riding Idaho is outstanding. Craters of the Moon is geologically fascinating, set in wonderful rolling countryside, unique and hot. I find it difficult to think of 1,500 square kilometres of lava as a “monument,” but it has the history and cultural significance to justify the term. I camped at the Hayspur Hatchery free site, just west of the Craters entrance. Nearby, the Silver River trout stream commemorates the contribution Jack Hemingway, Toronto-born son of Ernest, made in preserving trout habitat. Sun Valley lies just to the north of the area. All you have to do is avoid Boise and the 125 km/h freeway. As for me, I shall pay special attention to lawn sprinklers in the future. And prepared salads.

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SALT OF THE EARTH

Swift Current enthusiast puts her courage on the road. By Larry Carleton

I would like to introduce you to the most amazing woman I know: my wife, Myra Carleton. Let me take you back – about 42 years – to her first riding experience. We were 16 years old, and my scoot at the time was a brand-new Suzuki 250 dirt bike. She hopped on and without hesitation dumped the clutch and proceeded to pull a wheelie. (I was on behind and managed to bail off while straddling a very large taillight.) We rode together for a few years and then took a longer-than-wanted hiatus to raise our three kids.

e started getting serious about riding again in the late ‘90s. After spending several years as a passenger, Myra decided it was time to ride her own. In 2009, she fell in love with a 2007 Superlow®. She said, “I’ll just ride to work and for short day rides.” That summer, we rode from Swift Current, SK (our home) to Cranbrook, BC (1,600 km round trip) and took another trip from Swift Current to

Kelowna, BC (2,000 km round trip). Since then, she has ridden twice to Sturgis, a two-week ride to Washington State, and to HOG® rallies in Victoria, BC, Saskatoon, SK, and Medicine Hat, AB. We also made the trek to Milwaukee for the 110th anniversary celebrations and to Evel Knievel Days in Butte, MT, three times. Myra upgraded to a new Ember Red Switchback® as her Christmas present in 2013, keeping the Sporty as well. In December 2013, Myra’s doctors found a small cyst during a routine examination. In February 2014, we received news everyone dreads: An MRI revealed stage three ovarian cancer. She was scheduled for surgery immediately. After an eightand-a-half hour operation to remove the cancer, Myra started six months of chemotherapy in early May. Myra plated her bike in April and did a few short day rides between chemo treatments. She participated in our local Ride for Dad in June, riding more than 300 kilometres for a great cause. We have an annual get-together with some Idaho and Washington friends at Evel Knievel Days on the last weekend in July, and she wasn’t about to miss out. Although we did haul her bike to Butte, as she had many tired spells due to treatment, she rode the entire weekend around Butte and for a full daytrip there. Then she decided to ride with us from Butte to Great Falls when we headed home. She put on about 600 kilometres that weekend. Chemo got the best of her in mid-August, and she struggled for about six weeks after that with severe fatigue. On November 27, 2014, Myra had her three-month check-up, and her surgeon/ oncologist gave her a thumbs-up. Throughout this entire ordeal, not once did Myra complain or feel bad about things. Her saying was: “It is what it is.” Myra’s courage in battling cancer has inspired more than a few people, and she continues to look at life as a precious gift.

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FALL 2015

YELLOW BRICK ROAD

Three Alberta riders take the H.O.G.-approved route to Texas. By Barry O’Neill. Photos By Ralph Carson.

In June, three HOG® members headed out from Medicine Hat, AB, two on Ultra Limiteds and one on a Softail®. We planned to ride through Montana to the Republic of Texas Biker Rally following the yellow-highlighted roads in the HOG Touring Handbook.

e started south on Monday morning and were in Montana by 9 a.m. It was a pleasant day, and we rode the back roads to Billings, then the interstate to Casper, WY. We stopped at a small motel and consumed a lovely meal at a steakhouse, washed down with microbrews, our pattern for the next 12 days. Tuesday it was on to Colorado with a couple of stops at Harley-Davidson® dealers to pick up T-shirts and poker chips. We avoided the Denver traffic madness by taking a bypass and riding the back roads to Lamar.

By Wednesday we had settled in to our roles for the trip: The Ambassador, who talked to everyone and got great local information on roads, food and lodging. The Guide, who used GPS and maps to keep us heading in the right direction. And the Lizard, who used his irreverent sense of humour to keep us having fun. It was around 37 C as we wandered through Kansas and Oklahoma, and we stopped frequently for water breaks. The funny way we walked with our sweat-soaked clothes stuck to our skin reminded us of monkeys, leading to a new term for severe hot-weather riding: monkey butt. Thursday we rode through Texas hill country, making a stop for barbeque. We ran into standstill construction traffic outside Temple and spent two hours resting on a fast-food outlet lawn. Once the traffic thinned, we headed to Austin for the rally. We had a great time touring the rally, talking to other bikers and enjoying Austin. Nightlife downtown is highly recommended if you like live music and good food. On Sunday, Tropical Storm Bill arrived. We had planned to head to the Alamo,

but instead we rode west, out of the driving rain and into the sunshine of Fredericksburg. It was only about 50 kilometres of storm, but in the heavy traffic it seemed much farther. For the rest of the day, we checked out central and west Texas and completed our roadkill bingo cards – not just the easy spaces like tire gator and mystery chunk, but the tough ones like fox, antelope and javelina. Monday we travelled through New Mexico, checking out the UFO museum in Roswell, and then to the mountains around Santa Fe. On Tuesday, the mountains and forests in northern New Mexico provided great scenery and challenging riding, but hail and heavy rain shortened our ride. Wednesday we managed a 100-km ride through the foothills, but heavy black clouds forced us to take the interstate through much of Colorado. Thursday and Friday we rode back through Wyoming and Montana, and all too soon we were in Medicine Hat. The enjoyable ride left us hoping for another. Riding those yellow-highlighted roads in the HOG Touring Handbook is always a great time.

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50 YEARS OF THE ELECTRA GLIDE®

On a list of the most important H-D® motorcycles, the Electra Glide® model belongs near the top. It’s the only Harley-Davidson® motorcycle to be part of a movie title. But that’s not why the Electra Glide looms large in Harley history. Fifty years after its introduction, it remains an H-D® icon.

he Electra Glide didn’t appear out of thin air in 1965. Its evolution started in 1941, when the 61-cubic-inch “Knucklehead” engine (EL) was joined by a 74-inch counterpart, the first FL model. Eight years later, a new telescopic front fork began to replace the old “springer” front end. The name “Hydra Glide” originally applied only to the front fork, but soon became associated with the motorcycle itself. When rear suspension was added in 1958, the name changed to Duo Glide. The next big improvement, in 1965, was the electric starter – making the name Electra Glide a perfect fit. The starter made life easier and broadened the appeal of motorcycling. As the 1965 sales brochure read, “We’ve taken a few of the kicks away, but none we thought you would miss.” The earliest Electra Glide marketing showed the bike with the “King of the Highway” option group, which included saddlebags, removable windshield, luggage rack and plenty of chrome goodies. This firmly established the iconic H-D Touring motorcycle image, but a new defining feature was yet to come. For 1969, designers crafted an accessory fairing specifically for the Electra Glide model to keep more wind off the rider. It began as a shell, with no inner fairing or instrumentation. By 1971, the “windshield fairing kit” – more commonly known as the “batwing” fairing – was a standard feature. For years, the Electra Glide was the sole

member of the Touring family, until the addition of the Electra Glide Classic in 1979. The Touring family has typically been first to receive new features, and the Electra Glide often sets the pace. Disc brakes were first employed in 1972. Harley-Davidson’s first electronic fuel injection appeared on the 1995 Electra Glide Ultra. And for the 2009 model year, all Touring bikes received a new frame that improved maneuverability and seating position. The Electra Glide has been part of many historical moments over the last 50 years. After the June 1981 buyback from AMF, the first ceremonial bike off the assembly line in York, PA, was an FLH Electra Glide Heritage Edition. The Electra Glide has also become the bike of choice for countless police departments worldwide. Without the Electra Glide, there is no Road King® or Street Glide® – the Road King models from 1994 onward draw their

FALL 2015 inspiration directly from the classic 1960s Electra Glide. The motorcycle is also the platform for the leaner Electra Glide Sport (1977), the more deluxe Electra Glide Ultra Classic® (1989) and the Ultra Limited (2009), which brings the features and trim level to new heights. But Harley-Davidson stylists have never forsaken the Electra Glide’s roots. With the Project Rushmore upgrades of 2014, the batwing fairing was redesigned to reduce buffeting, but the classic shape remained. Saddlebags and the Tour-Pak® luggage carrier were streamlined while increasing capacity. The new Boom!™ Box Infotainment System achieved best-in-class capability. Even passenger comfort was improved. These features and many others marked the single largest product launch in Harley-Davidson history. The Electra Glide’s importance goes far beyond its versatility and popularity. It’s the modern standard for Touring motorcycles. Competitors increasingly try to copy everything from the fairing to the luggage units, always missing the mark. H-D remains the dominant force in North American Touring and is gaining ground in other nations. That movie title? It’s the 1973 motorcycle cop drama Electra Glide in Blue. Of course, you can get one in just about any colour you want.

Photograph courtesy of the Harley-Davidson Motor Company Archives. Copyright H-D.

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Photograph courtesy of the Harley-Davidson Motor Company Archives. Copyright H-D.

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