BOLD Issue #51 Hidden Europe by BOLD Traveller Magazine

THE PLEASURES OF

ITALY

The road to zen in

Thailand FINDING BALANCE IN BARBADOS OUR BOLD GUIDE TO WELLNESS

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Features In This Issue 36 King of the Castle

Known as the “Garden of England,” Kent is also famed for its grand homes. Doug O’Neill wanders its rolling hills and crosses the moat to explore the extraordinarily grand Hever Castle

42 Italy Now

In our spotlight on the Bel Paese, Sarah Treleaven takes us on a tour of Rome before venturing the steep slopes of Piedmont on a bicycle. Meanwhile, Vawn Himmelsbach scouts the most stylish spots in Florence

60 Pleasure Principles

Being taken care of should be a foundation of every trip to Thailand. But at an elephant farm, Anita Draycott also got a chance to do some pampering herself

70 Attitude Adjustments

Where gladiators fought almost 2,000 years ago, the Roman Colosseum remains one of the most visited sights in Europe.

BOLD

Photo by Davi Pimentel

Spa experiences are not solely about the body; Diana Spechler takes a look at some treatments focused on mental health. PLUS Mind+Body+Soul, our editors’ picks for wellness escapes

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Contents 38

Also in This Issue 12 EDITOR’S NOTE 14 EDITOR’S ITINERARY: Exploring

32 GLOBETROTTER: Wine expert

Véronique Rivest

the coast of Vancouver Island

34 CRUISE: Norwegian’s newest showboat

16 CONTRIBUTORS

34 BEAUTY: Staying moisturized in transit

19 AGENDA: Where to watch the world’s

80 TRAVEL INTEL: The healthiest

most beautiful sunsets

in-flight eats

22 STAY: Le Mas and Le Mazet, France

82 WORTH TRAVELLING FOR: Bastei Bridge, Germany

24 FOOD DIARIES: The life of chefs

Julio Guajardo and Kate Chomyshy in words and pictures

26 DRINK: Cambodia’s hot (really hot) cocktails

28 DINE: The most quintessentially

ON THE COVER

Ukrainian meals

Going for Baroque at Rome’s Trevi Fountain.

34 10

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Photo By Nadya Korobkova

30 LOCAL EXPERT: Photographer and model Alona Andersen’s guide to Copenhagen

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Editor’s Note A better kind of restlessness also leads us up and down the hillsides of Piedmont, eating, drinking and peddling her way through the landscape. Then, Vawn Himmelsbach introduces us to some of the most fashionable people, places and things in Florence. But we’ve got aperitivi, secondi and contorni, too, that will take you to Denmark, Germany, Greece, the Ukraine and, under the guidance of Doug O’Neill, a very English castle in the Kent countryside (yes, it still counts as Europe). Though it certainly feels like it when you’re there, Europe does not hold a monopoly on taking excellent care of our minds, bodies and spirits. In this issue of BOLD, we also join Anita Draycott in her quest for wellness—as well as indulgence and grace—in Thailand, a country that might as well have invented hospitality. Spa time, meals eaten at leisure, mornings of being a flâneur, afternoons of soaking in the sun, history lessons learned on the spot where events unfolded—all of it is a cure for discontent and gloom. To savour the patrimony of other cultures, the lived embodiment of wisdom and tradition, is not mere distraction; it’s how we’ll all get through this together.

Paul Gallant Executive Editor

BOLD

Photo by Tishan Baldeo

The phrase “the natives are restless,” which dates back to the 1933 film Island of Lost Souls, carries the weight of condescending European colonialism. But these days it might be directed at Europeans themselves. In the headlines, the Old Continent seems on edge and out of sorts. Fortunately for travellers to Europe, the headlines ultimately don’t mean much; they’ll get through it all in fine style. The architecture remains stunning, the landscape beautiful, the art unmatched and the food divine. From the Skagerrak to the Mediterranean Sea, designers, inventors, artists, farmers and chefs, working in traditions going back millennia, still dedicate themselves to the art of making the sweet life even sweeter. As you make your way through olive groves and over mountaintops, skip the tough subjects to learn people’s true passions beneath the politics. Or don’t: it may very well be the role of Canadians, who have so far maintained their reputation for being clearheaded and kind in this new world order, to lend a sympathetic ear to the disgruntled over a little something from Conegliano Valdobbiadene. You’re transported and in awe at the beauty of it all—why not spread it around? Italy is the main course for this issue, starting on page 44. It’s a country we never tire of, partly because of its people’s capacity to enjoy life in good times and in more trying ones. Sarah Treleaven gives us our own personalized tour of Rome, and

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EDITOR’S ITINERARY

On the far WESTERN SHORE Vancouver Island does refined and wild equally well

– by Liz Fleming – TASTING TOFINO

The rainbow ends at Wickaninnish Inn in Tofino.

WICKED VICTORIA Do you think you have to be in the dark to scare yourself witless? Not in Victoria, B.C. There, on one of the many Ghostly Walks tours, you can frighten and enlighten yourself on a sunny day. Owner John Adams, his son Chris and their talented team of actor/tour guides offer walking tours of Victoria’s historic downtown area that provide a comprehensive understanding of the city’s past and a pleasantly creepy introduction to some ghostly characters who still haunt the old streets and buildings. You’ll hear about spurned and vengeful lovers, bloodstains on floors and chilling cries that echo through empty hallways on lonely nights. Afterward, treat yourself to the ultimate Victoria must-do: tea at the Fairmont Empress Hotel. With its cornucopia of clotted-cream, scones, itsy-bitsy cucumbers, smoked salmon, egg and chicken salad finger sandwiches and miniature pastries, this is what your grandmother meant when she talked about tea.

A FEAST FOR THE SENSES After exploring, you’ll be looking for a cozy spot for the night and you can’t do better than the Oak Bay Beach Hotel. This 100-room luxury hotel offers the proverbial room with a view—and what a view it is! If your room doesn’t overlook the Strait of Juan de Fuca, with snowcapped Mount Baker shimmering in the distance, you’ll instead gaze out at the tree-lined, small-town beauty of Oak Bay. Either way, the scenery will make you an overnight Instagram sensation. While the exquisitely appointed suites and rooms would be enough to make this a stay-forever choice, the on-site mineral pool takes things over the top. Sit, soak, simmer and forget that the rest of the world even exists. 14

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If Victoria embodies a highly civilized British vibe, Tofino is the other side of the Vancouver Island story. Well-known as a year-round surfers’ paradise, Tofino offers a strangely wonderful way to enjoy the wild weather for which the area is famous—the storm party. Because Tofino’s coast is unsheltered, the wind whips the waves to stunning heights of more than six metres before pushing them onto the beaches. The resulting shows of watery power are epic. Although the Wickaninnish Inn on Chesterman Beach is best known for these celebrations, the Long Beach Lodge Resort on Cox Bay Beach gets into the wild weather festivities, too. Toss in a meal of fresh B.C. salmon and a few marshmallows to toast over the fire and you’re all set. Cue the thunder and lightning! When morning comes and the clouds blow away, you’ll be hungry again. Luckily, Tofino is blessed with more great cafés and restaurants per capita than any other small town we can think of. A big fave is Wolf in the Fog. The perfect choice for a Sunday brunch, this cozy spot is the best place in town for classic Tofino chowder, loaded with clams, fish, fennel, leeks and all kinds of yummy-ness. BECOME A TREE HUGGER Ordinarily, when we talk about cathedrals, we’re thinking about man-made structures and Sunday services, but on Vancouver Island, there’s a place of worship that’s entirely natural. Cathedral Grove, the very rare remainder of an ancient Douglas fir ecosystem, is a place you have to visit to appreciate. There’s a mind-boggling stand of trees more than 800 years old, towering 76 metres in the air— some nearly nine metres across. Cared for and preserved by local Indigenous people, these trees are a treasure visited by fewer tourists than you might expect. It’s well worth the drive to see them for a quick reminder of how tiny we are by comparison and how relatively short our time is on this earth.

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Contributors 60 ANITA DRAYCOTT Writer

PLEASURE PRINCIPLES Anita Draycott has been a Toronto-based travel journalist, editor and photographer for more than 25 years, specializing in golf, spas and food. She has lost count of the number of countries she has visited and has difficulty picking her favourite destination on the planet, but the Hawaiian island of Maui makes her top-10 list. @anitadraycott

36 DOUG O’NEILL Writer

KING OF THE CASTLE “Pull your nose out of your smartphone and look up,” says Toronto-based travel writer Doug O’Neill. “If only I’d followed my own advice on that trip to New York, I wouldn’t have let the elevator door slam shut on Kevin Spacey’s face, nor snubbed Jay Leno on a patio in Bermuda.” Accounts of O’Neill’s rambles appear in a variety of Canadian and American media outlets. @dougoneill

28 SABRINA PIRILLO

Writer

СМАЧНОГО! Sabrina Pirillo is a freelance travel writer based out of Toronto. She believes travel is life, which is why she loves travelling around the world and sharing her adventures. Sabrina is also a proud member of TMAC, the Travel Media Association of Canada. @sabrinapirillo

Marlon J. Moreno CEO + Editorial Director Luis Chavez Vice President, Operations Pina Russo Chief Digital Officer Paul Gallant Executive Editor Liz Fleming Associate Editor Magda de la Torre Americas Editor

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CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Andrew Brudz • Anita Draycott Vawn Himmelsbach • Doug O’Neill Sabrina Pirillo • Jake Seguin Diana Spechler • Sarah Treleaven Doug Wallace ART DIRECTION AND DESIGN Laura García PHOTOGRAPHY Tishan Baldeo WEB DEVELOPER Rahul Nair SOCIAL MEDIA COORDINATOR Juan Felipe Galán

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emerald dreams

COSTA ESMERALDA Nestled between Tola and El Astillero sits The Emerald Coast: Nicaraguaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s dreamy response to the growing population of eco-travellers. This 30-mile stretch of pristine coastline and unspoilt forest has transcended its humble origins as a surfing getaway and has become one of Nicaraguaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s foremost destinations for sustainable adventure and relaxation. With an abundance of exciting excursions and a growing selection of authentic accommodations, Green has never looked (or felt) so good.

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INSPIRATION FOR TRAVELLERS

AGENDA SEE. EXPERIENCE. HEAR. SHARE. GO.

SENSATIONAL SUNSETS

SANTORINI, GREECE Where it is: Two hundred kilometres from mainland Greece lies Santorini, a volcanic island in the Aegean Sea. Steep cliffs surround the lagoon at the islandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s centre, with the areaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s signature whitewashed, blue-topped architecture climbing the hillsides. Why you need to see it: Because visitors travel from near and far to experience the spectacular sunsets here, and there is no shortage of stunning vantage points. In the town of Oia, the white houses that crowd the hills reflect the setting sun for maximum impact, making it the most popular lookout spot. For a more serene setting, head to the picturesque Akrotiri lighthouse. BOLD

AGENDA | SUNSETS

MARA MASAI, KENYA

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BAGAN, MYANMAR Where it is: The ancient city, dating back to 200 AD, is found in Myanmar’s lush Mandalay region. Once the capital of longfallen kingdom, it’s still home to thousands of Buddhist temples and pagodas. Why you need to see it: Because there is nothing like the surreal sight of the sun setting behind the pointed stupas jutting out from the forest floor. The Shwesandaw Pagoda, built in 1057, is also known as the sunset pagoda since it’s the best viewing point.

SAUGEEN SHORES, CANADA Where it is: On the shores of Lake Huron in western Ontario, it was, in the early 1800s, an important fur trading route for the Hudson’s Bay Company. Today, it’s an area formed from the amalgamation of Port Elgin, Southampton and Saugeen. Why you need to see it: Because there is a different colour combination every night: red, orange, yellow, pink, purple and blue in watercolour swooshes over the lake. Visitors and locals alike gather with ice cream and blankets to sit on the shore, while bagpipe players create an appropriately spectacular live score.

Photo by Andrew S/Shutterstock

Where it is: In South-western Kenya, Mara Masai is one of Africa’s most famous nature reserves, with more than 1,500 square kilometres of breathtaking grasslands. It’s home to a veritable who’s who of iconic wildlife: lions, leopards, cheetahs, zebras, gazelles, rhinos, hippos and wildebeest. Why you need to see it: Because it doesn’t get any more dramatic that this! After a day on the safari, end with a bang. The umbrella acacia tree at sunset is arguably the continent’s most indelible image. The flat land creates the opportunity for bold silhouettes popping out from the fiery sky—no wonder it’s a favourite with photographers.

Vibrant sunset over one of the overlooks at Grand Canyon National Park.

GRAND CANYON, USA The red rock geological wonder known as the Grand Canyon is intricate, colourful and awe-inspiring, making it a must-see for tourists all day and all year. In the Arizona desert, the serene sunset lights up billions of years of strata for as far as the eye can see. â&#x20AC;&#x201D;ANDREW BRUDZ BOLD

A G E N D A | S TAY

COTTAGE

LIFE

IN FRANCE’S SOUTHERN DORDOGNE, TWO SIBLING GUEST HOUSES PROVIDE A GATEWAY TO THE GOOD LIFE

– by Jake Seguin – – photos by Stella Gommans –

“The chess-board streets of Monpazier, built by Edward I of England, are only a short walk away” 22

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hh, Dordogne: is there any other region in France so sublimely serene? It is a fairy tale come to life; a tapestry of baroque hilltop towns, rolling vineyards and more than 1,500 castles. Stone-wrought chateaux line the cobblestone streets of medieval towns such as Bergerac and Bourdeilles, framing the ancient bell towers and ramparts that maintain their watch over the region’s namesake river. The scent of traditional French cuisine wafts from wooden fireplaces in Sarlat, affirming the commitment to artisan gastronomy that feed the many food markets and wine tours. A breeze guides sailors and kayakers down the river Vézère, home to a host of grottos and caves that offer a compelling glimpse at ancestral life through painstakingly preserved cave drawings. The 16 th-century beauty of Dordogne inspires selfguided immersion. The cobblestone comfort of a countryside cottage, like Le Mas or Le Mazet, can help a visitor feel they’re experiencing rural French life just like a local would. Le Mas is a 16 th-century farmhouse with thick stone walls, wooden beams and huge fireplaces with room enough for 10 guests. The well-equipped kitchen features a stone sink, with terracotta floor tiles leading guests to the expansive living room. Each of the five bedrooms has an en suite bathroom and, as a bonus, provides a vantage point for spotting wild boar or deer in the woods beyond. Not far away, Le Mazet is a charming, detached cottage renovated to be the ideal self-catering holiday home for one or two people. There are stunning views across the valley, from the upstairs sitting room and from the private garden. This single bedroom escape is sunny and warm, which is surprising, considering the stone walls. Both guest houses were renovated in 2016 by the owners, Rupert and Franck, who moved to France from Amsterdam, where Franck was a theatre producer, including for Cirque du Soleil, and Rupert ran an antique shop on the Prinsengracht. They discovered the region a few years ago while on holiday. Although the classic

houses have been brought into the 21st century, they certainly haven’t lost any of their historical character. Le Mas and Le Mazet can be rented individually or together for groups of up to 12 guests. Visitors don’t even have to leave the properties to experience Dordogne’s celebrated cuisine. A local baker delivers a fresh baguette to the house each morning. The private chef includes French staples such as black truffles, foie gras and duck on the menu, as well as regional specialties like sweet chocolatines. The chef is also a master sommelier, and is more than willing to share the best of Dordogne’s wines. While vintages from the Dordogne are obviously the most accessible, neighbouring Bergerac is an up-and-coming wine region, known for the sweet wines of Monbazillac. When visitors decide to venture off the property, both Le Mas and Le Mazet are convenient gateways to beautiful nature and vibrant villages; the area has been dubbed “Dordogneshire” because of its substantial British expat community. The chess-board streets of Monpazier, built by Edward I of England, are only a short walk away. Its characterful town square is the perfect place to enjoy a drink in the afternoon, the prelude to a UNESCO-recognized abbey visit on the nearby Camino de Santiago pilgrimage route. Weekly food markets and fantastic restaurants mark the town as a culinary capital, though it’s equally renowned for cycling, horseriding and canoeing. Less than an hour’s drive away is Les Eyzies-de-TayacSireuil. The stony cliffs and verdant escarpment hide many archeological discoveries; the commune is home to France’s National Museum of Prehistory. Remains of the earliest human settlements still sit in the cliffs above the town. It’s a solid reminder of how long humans have lived in the region, and why they still love living here. Stays from $130/night at Le Mazet; $580/night at Le Maz. lemasdordogne.com BOLD

AGENDA | FOOD DIARIES

After

Antojitos

1. Kate: That’s the restaurant at Pearl Morissette in Jordan in the Niagara region. We met Daniel [Hadida, co-chef at the winery] when we first moved to Toronto three years ago. He’s a lovely person Partners in the kitchen and at home, chefs and great chef. Yes, you eat KATE CHOMYSHYN and JULIO GUAJARDO in the barn, but it’s a very have been reinventing Mexican food for Canadians stylized barn. Their approach is highly technical and they only use local ingredients. he restaurant biz can be a real rollercoaster ride. After moving from Montreal to open the I guess you’d call it “New much praised Quetzal, on College Street in Toronto, co-owners Kate Chomyshyn and Julio Canadian.” Guajardo abruptly left the project. And so for the first time in more than a decade, the Julio: We’re still getting to partners in marriage and food found themselves with free time on their hands. Chomyshyn, know Toronto and Ontario. born in Montreal, and Guajardo, born in Mexico City, met while attending Le Cordon Bleu Everyone’s been extremely Ottawa Culinary Arts Institute. Their first big project together, Montreal’s LA CaTRINA, was a gourmet take welcoming. For me the on Mexico’s traditional paleta ice pops. And it was their innovative approach to Mexican cuisine that led transition has been a bit them to help launch El Rey in Kensington Market, which draws its inspiration from Puebla and Veracruz, easier because there’s no and Rosalinda on Richmond Street, which dares to do Mexican vegan. Now based in Toronto, the duo French here and I’m not very is evaluating what to do next, which will likely include trips to various parts of Mexico, looking for more good at it. inspiration. For more photos and to see what Chomyshyn and Guajardo are up to, visit instagram.com/ paletakate and instagram.com/juliogua —PAUL GALLANT

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1. Kate: We learned a lot opening Quetzal and I’m still digesting the experience. The team was amazing always and I’m so grateful for how hard they worked. I learned that if you put forward your ideas with love and passion, people do understand that. Julio: At Quetzal, we used a lot of traditional Mexican elements but not in the traditional way. For the last eight years, we spent a lot of time in Mexico, but also brought in French cooking. Oaxaca has definitely been one of our biggest influences. Also Yucatán and Baja California. 2. Julio: That’s me with René Redzepi, chef and owner of Noma in Copenhagen. It was a big deal for me, actually. He was doing different popups in Australia and Japan. When I found out he was doing one in Mexico, I was one of the first ones to apply, but the reply went to my junk mail folder and I didn’t get a spot. Always check your junk mail! But I did meet René and when I was there I met a couple of cooks that I’m still friends with today.

3. Julio: Lately I’ve been doing a lot more on the pastry side. Pan de Muertos is a traditional bread we do on Día de los Muertos in November. It’s a way of paying respect to our ancestors and those who have passed away. It’s a little offering. You typically make it with a little cinnamon and orange, and have it with hot chocolate. I used to make my own homemade Nutella to put in it.

4. Kate: That’s one of the main streets in Oaxaca City, and it leads to the main square where the big cathedral is. There are lots of artists in the city, lots of boutiques, galleries. We’ve been there six or seven times and we’ll stay for a month or so. Julio: We might just spend a few days in the city because we have a friend there who drives us around to different mezcal producers. We’ll go to San José del Pacífico, where there’s absolutely no sound other than nature. And we might also go to the coast, Puerto Escondido.

5. Kate: We’ve always catered on the side for the last 12 years, so it’s always enjoyable to do a one-off. Typically as a chef, you might not have much contact with the public, but with catering, especially with cooking stations, you have get to mix more with people. On this occasion, we were helping out the Victor Dries catering company for a party for Ace Hill beer. Julio: We were crying from all the smoke.

6. Kate: We were waiting for Quetzal to open so we worked on the menu at Rosalinda. Julio: When they approached us, we were first looking at doing something South California style, but we brought in more Mexican flavours. We had never done vegan food before, so it took a lot of research and testing. It wasn’t so hard to adapt. If you go to Mexico, you’ll find that we eat a lot of vegetables. Kate: One of the things we learned was that you can make delicious things with vegetables, but eggs are a most important ingredient and are so, so hard to replace.

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AGENDA | DRINKS

HOT STUFF

H o w a h o m e g r o w n p e p p e r h a s t ra n s f o r m e d C a m b o d i a ’ s co c k t a i l c u l t u r e

– by Doug Wallace –

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’d had pepper martinis before, but nothing like this. Nervously tasting the Kampot Pepper Martini, bellied up to the little bar at Rambutan Hotel and Resort in Siem Reap, Cambodia, my brain then momentarily went for a walk. Not in a wow-that’s-hot way, but more like a taste-bud explosion had rendered me speechless—no small feat. We threw back one of these concoctions each evening, the fresh mint and pepper-infused vodka combo blowing our minds every time. The crushed local peppercorns lent a layered, mineral-like quality, the mint, lime, Cointreau, vermouth and bitters melding to absolute perfection. We took to the Rambutan instantly, the cozy atmosphere, traditional Khmer décor, central salt-water pool and warm staff providing an effortless, easy feeling. The hotel actually has two parts, one beside the other, on a little pedestrian laneway on the quieter side of the river that splits Siem Reap in two, just a five-minute walk from the old marketplace in the historic centre of town. Bartenders start shaking things up at lunch for those ringing the pool, but the real action begins at 5pm, and not only with hotel guests, but also with other tourists wandering in off the street and pulling up a stool. The inventive fruit-forward cocktails and Cambodian takes on timeless classics really invite local flavours to shine in daiquiris and martinis. Their ginger mojito vibrates with fresh ginger, lime, and both gold and white rum. The Absolut Expresso employs a vanilla syrup to zing up the up-and-down marriage of coffee and vodka. With our pepper martini, the quality of the Cambodian pepper completely elevates the drink. Organic pepper has been grown in the Kampot region of Cambodia since the 13th century, its quality revered thanks to the climate and the quartz-rich terroir. Pepper in Cambodia is classified by appellation, similar to the world’s wine regions. In fact, pepper is actually considered a dried fruit. Here’s the real oddity: Black, red, green and white peppercorns all come from the same plant, variations caused by a wild mix of variables that include growing conditions, harvesting and process, age and maturity. But back to the bar. Although we tried not to be late for dinner, that happened more than once. It was just too hard to tear ourselves away from this tiny, perfect miracle. rambutansiemreap.com; kampotpepper.ca

K A M P OT P E P P E R M A R T I N I INGREDIENTS 4 fresh mint leaves, finely chopped

½ oz simple syrup

1 ½ oz Kampot pepper-infused vodka*

3 drops Angostura bitters

½ oz Cointreau

1 dash white vermouth

½ oz lime juice DIRECTIONS In a shaker filled with ice, add all ingredients, shake, strain and serve. Garnish with a lime wheel. *INFUSION Coarsely grind about a cup of dry black Kampot pepper. Add to a bottle of vodka and shake for 15 seconds. Store in the fridge for one week, shaking daily. Use a coffee filter to strain into a clean bottle.

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AGENDA | DINE

Смачного! Want to understand Ukrainian culture and history? Start with the food. Here, five essential eats

– by Sabrina Pirillo –

1. CHICKEN KYIV WHERE Chicken Kyiv, Khreschatyk Street, Kyiv. My first stop had to be at a restaurant named in honour of the capital city and its signature dish: Chicken Kyiv. It’s a bright, spacious dining room with stained glass windows and a deep green exterior meant to evoke childhood memories. The menu is also childlike in the form of a pop-up book. The chicken here is classic and succulent: tender and breaded, filled with butter, ham and cheese, which oozes out onto my antique plate. It’s served with truffled mashed potatoes and a dollop of spicy mustard. For dessert, I try the Kyiv cake, light and flavoursome, made of egg whites, buttercream and hazelnut chunks. It reminds me of a summer’s night, where the sun’s warmth is still glowing and the light breeze feels just right. THE BACKGROUND Kyiv cake is said to have been invented accidentally in the 1950s when bakers were trying to create a completely different recipe but made a mistake with the egg whites. 28

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2. BORSCH WHERE Kanapa, Andriyivs’kyy Descent, Kyiv. After a long day of sightseeing I wanted to find a place to relax and so took a seat in Kanapa—“Sofa” in English. Locals sit on, yes, comfortable brown sofas housed in a preserved 19th-century wooden building where art pieces fill the walls and candles line the windowsills. The decadent guinea fowl and pheasant liver pâté is followed by borsch, which is uniquely served in a charred cabbage with smoked pork ears, plums, sun-dried tomatoes and smoked pear. borysov.com.ua/uk/kanapa THE BACKGROUND Originally created by the Slavs, borsch had a pungent smell and sour-taste until the 19th century when other ingredients were added.

3. VARENYKY WHERE Ostannya Barykada, Maidan Nezalezhnosti, Kyiv. Many Ukrainian restaurants and bars require passwords to enter. At Ostannya Barykada (“Last Barricade”), “Boritesya poborete!” (“fight and win!”) grants me access. The décor takes me on something of a tour of the country’s three revolutions: the Student Revolution on the Granite in 1990, Orange Revolution in 2004 and the Revolution of Dignity in 2014. The selection of varenyky, the country’s take on dumplings, range from savoury to sweet: traditional cabbage, potato and foie gras, sweet cherry. borysov.com.ua/en/ostannya-barykada THE BACKGROUND Elsewhere in Central Europe they may be called pierogis, but varenyky play a fundamental role in Ukrainian culture.

4. MULTI-CULTI ITALIAN-UKRAINIAN WHERE Teatro Restaurant, Opera Hotel, Khmelnitskogo Street, Kyiv. Leave it to an Italian-Canadian to find a fine-dining Mediterranean restaurant in the middle of Kyiv. Teatro Restaurant is broken up into two sections: purple and green velvet chairs line the inside dining room while the

second has windows and skylights that give it an outdoor terrace feeling. I order risotto arancini, tender sea bass fillets and eggplant pasta. For dessert, I finish with a traditional Sicilian cannoli and lemon sorbet resting in limoncello syrup. THE BACKGROUND Born in Sicily, award-winning executive chef Gaetano Sgroi has worked in South Africa, Serbia, Maldives and Nairobi.

5. GALICIAN JEWISH AND MIDDLE EASTERN CUISINE—HUMMUS, KOFTA AND CHICKEN SOUP WHERE “At the Golden Rose” Galician Jewish Restaurant, Staroevreiska Street, Lviv. A one-hour flight aboard Ukraine International Airlines takes me from Kyiv to Lviv, where I explore this hip, young city with a restaurant company called !FEST, which operates places like the Lviv Coffee Mining Manufacture, Arsenal.Ribs and Spirits, and “At the Golden Rose,” where the cost of dining is based on customer’s bargaining skills. I paid in part with an out-of-tune rendition of “Oh Canada.” The intimate restaurant is decorated with handmade tablecloths, sewing machines, candles and menorahs, reflecting the life of Galician Jews who lived in Western Ukraine. The menu has assorted hummus and Jewish spread platters, traditional chicken soup and Kofta, a tender beef cutlet and ground lamb. THE BACKGROUND: Jewish communities have been present in Western Ukraine since the late 9 th century. These days, Ukraine is home to Europe’s third-largest Jewish community. BOLD

AGENDA | LOCAL EXPERT

A BIGGER

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COPENHAGEN’S GOT FIRST DIBS O N C A S UA L C OO L . P H O TOG R A P H E R ALONA ANDERSEN ADVISES US ON W H AT ’ S H O T N O W

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freelance photographer, and sometimes model, who just completed her master’s of science in IT, Alona Andersen grew up about an hour south of Copenhagen. Since moving to the Danish capital seven years ago, she’s fallen in love with the city’s food, design and arts scenes, especially since Copenhagen is compact and friendly enough that all three scenes often overlap. Easy to get around on foot or by bike, Copenhagen offers a sumptuous mix of classic and modern architecture, punctuated with trendy eating and shopping options. It’s also very green, at least in the summer. “The city has a real sustainable focus, with the idea of merging people and nature.” The metropolitan region of about two million people stretches across the islands of Zealand and Amager. “There’s water everywhere and in the summer, people are jumping in the canals.” Here are Andersen’s picks for the best of Copenhagen, in her own words. H OT E L Both classic and modern, Hotel Sanders is so beautiful, and it’s located right in the centre. The focus is on great materials. Luxurious but not flashy. The thing I really like about it is the indoor rooftop terrace, which is open the whole year. You can go there in the winter and it feels like it’s summer. A lot of people go to work there on their computers, so it’s a good place to meet the locals. It feels so homey. hotelsanders.com BAKERY Juno is a very small bakery and there’s always a queue outside. Originally it was for people who “know,” but now the hype of the queue has made it quite famous. It’s the perfect place to grab a snack to take with you when you’re touring around. I recommend for people to get the cardamom bun. instagram.com/juno_the_bakery CASUAL DINING There are so many places, but I’ll go with Italo Disco, which is a modern yet traditional Italian restaurant. They only serve a half a dozen dishes or so. The menu is decided on the day depending on which ingredients are available at the food market in the morning. You can take someone there on a date without it being too fancy, but the atmosphere is very warm and the music is the perfect volume for having a conversation. italodisco.dk FINE DINING Alouette is new, opening in the summer last year. It’s rather hidden, in a neighbourhood called Islands Brygge, which is an area that doesn’t have a lot of restaurants. You go into a backyard and go up in an elevator that looks abandoned and you arrive in this beautiful place. The food is seasonal cuisine, very local, but it’s also about the spatial experience of dining. Underneath the restaurant is a famous Copenhagen carpentry shop, and they’ve used the restaurant as an experimental showcase, so it has all these extremely beautiful wooden doors and floors. It’s fine dining but definitely not stuck up. restaurantalouette.dk

AT T R A C T I O N Tivoli Gardens is one of the world’s oldest amusement parks, and is probably the most famous place. but I’ll suggest Freetown Christiania. It’s known as a hippie community, so the houses are built in a very creative way, with weird shapes and lots of colour. It’s car-free. In the summer it’s really pretty and it has lots of music venues. Pusher Street is known as a place where they sell marijuana; it’s not legal in Denmark but it’s a big attraction. BOUTIQUE Holly Golightly is a multi-brand shop with lots of Danish designers. It’s a little bit weird and artsy and hip. They’ve been around since 2001 and are very recognized in the industry. The store is located in a busy shopping area, so there are lots of other fashion stores around so it’s a central shopping destination. hollygolightly.dk URBAN SECRET I would take one of the ferry buses to Refshaleøen, which is where the famous restaurant Noma is. Go to a place called La Panchina. It’s an old pier and there’s a little shack where they serve coffee and organic wine. What makes it special is that people are sitting on the pier, swimming in the water. It’s very relaxing. In the winter, they have a wood-fired sauna. labanchina.dk; noma.dk EVENT The Heartland festival takes place in spring on the grounds of Egeskov Castle on the island of Funen, which is a couple of hours outside Copenhagen. The festival focuses on music, contemporary arts and food. It’s not really for people who want to get very drunk and not sleep for seven days. I would say it’s sophisticated, but also down to earth. heartlandfestival.dk

Aquarium photo by Astrid Maria Rasmussen

ON THESE PAGES FROM LEFT: The Nyhavn Port is a key Copenhagen attraction; the stunning façade of National Aquarium Denmark.

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AGENDA | GLOBETROTTER

AROUND THE WORLD WITH Sommelier

Véronique Rivest

Véronique Rivest launched her own wine bar in Gatineau, Quebec, in 2014.

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anada’s top sommelier—one of the world’s top sommeliers and probably the world’s top female sommelier—started out in the hospitality business as a restaurant hostess, then bus girl, then server, then bartender, then manager, before finding her calling in wine. But it’s not just her taste buds that have made Quebec’s Véronique Rivest one of our best known oenophiles, and the woman in charge of selecting Air Canada’s business-class wines. A sought-after educator and speaker, she’s won over the industry with her lack of dogma and snobiness around wine. Not content to be a mere guru, in 2014, she established her own SOIF wine bar in her hometown of Gatineau, Quebec, bringing her full circle back to the duties of running a hospitality business.

Where in the world have you felt happiest? At home. As much as I love to travel, there is nothing quite like coming home. Thanks to my upbringing (my parents were great travellers) and my work, I am very lucky to travel a lot and visit some of the world’s most beautiful places. But every time I come home I realize just how wonderful and beautiful it is here in Gatineau, Quebec. To get away from it all, I go: Deep in the woods (at home!) or when I really need a break from everything and need to recharge, somewhere on a beach.

Who is your favourite travelling companion? My husband. Because we don’t get to travel together that much, each time we do, it’s a real treat. Who is the most interesting person you’ve met on your travels? Oh boy, this list could be very long! Many, many wonderful and passionate winemakers and sommeliers all over the world. It’s what I like the most about my job: all the amazing people I meet. I am very fortunate to have met many over the years, and to have developed incredible friendships all over the world. What trip-of-a-lifetime lies ahead for you? I hope there are still many! The most imminent one is a trip to New Zealand’s wine regions. I’m very excited, as I have never been. As my husband and I are celebrating 30 years of marriage this year, I am hoping we will find time to get away to some far and exotic destination. He has always dreamt of visiting French Polynesia.

What’s the one thing you pack for every trip? Tea. I’m a real tea nut and unless you travel with your own, it’s usually rare to find good tea in hotels, at least outside of Asia. I also always pack flip-flops, for the beach, of course, but also for the plane and hotels. Wearing flip-flops makes me feel like I’m on holiday, gives me a sense of farniente [idyll].

“It is one of the

What’s your essential item for making travel more comfortable? I always have earplugs with me. Being able to sleep well is a must.

prettiest wine

What’s your guilty pleasure while travelling? Champagne and chips on board planes.

regions in the world, and the food, oh,

What’s your pet travel peeve? When I don’t speak the language of the country I’m in. I find it extremely frustrating. Firstly, for not being able to say at least a few words to get by and, secondly, for forcing people to speak another language. I travel mostly through Europe, South and North America, and I speak French, English, German and Spanish, so can manage in most places. Languages were my first love, before wine, and I wish I could speak more.

the food!”

Which is your road most travelled? Other than Gatineau to Montreal, which I do at least once a week almost year-round, I also travel regularly to Winnipeg, where I curate the wine and beer lists for The Forks at The Common craft beer and wine kiosk every three months. The Common is a fabulous craft beer and wine kiosk located in the newly renovated Food Hall of The Forks Market. We have 20 craft beers on tap and 20 wines available by the glass. You can grab a drink, walk around or choose something to eat from a wide selection of really good local food vendors and restaurants and sit at one of the communal tables. It’s a really great space and super popular with locals and tourists alike.

I lost my heart in…. Strasbourg, France, where I met my husband. We got married at Mont Saint-Odile, high up in the Vosges mountains, overlooking the plain of Alsace. It is one of the prettiest wine regions in the world, the wines are absolutely fabulous, and the food, oh, the food! Alsace has so many great restaurants, and probably my favourite of all: l’Auberge de l’Ill. What’s the place you were most nervous about visiting? None really. My parents instilled the love of travel in my two brothers and I at a very young age, and are certainly responsible for my great curiosity and sense of adventure.

Which travel experience most changed your worldview and why? Going to Indonesia in my very early 20s. I was a careless student living the good life in France at the time. When I went to visit my parents—my father worked in Jakarta for a few years—mom would take me with her to the slums where she went to work and help out. It was my first time in a developing country, seeing utter misery first hand. And yet I met some of the kindest people ever. It was heart wrenching and heart warming at the same time. It really made me ponder, as a young adult, everything I had and took for granted. If you could live in any other city in the world (other than your own), which one would it be and why? I used to think I was a citizen of the world, with no particular attachment to my country and that I could live anywhere. It took me seven years of living abroad to realize just how good we have it here.

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AGENDA | CRUISE

lissed OUT

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Norwegian’s latest megaship has one main goal: those on board will never be bored

– by Liz Fleming –

hat’s in a name? Well, in the case of Norwegian Cruise Line’s newest ship, the Bliss, everything. The planners of this 4,000-passenger stunner, which debuted late last year, have hit the mark in every category, one-upping the competition and setting a new standard for entertainment on the waves. Take, for example, the Bliss approach to outdoor fun. While other ships have bumper cars, Bliss offers a full-on, two-level competitive race track on the top deck, the largest of its kind at sea. If you’re more into water than tarmac, head for the aquapark where you’ll find a children’s park as well as two multi-storey slides, including one where you and a buddy can ride in tandem and another that slingshots you way out over the side of the ship. For the more culturally inclined, Bliss honours The Beatles every night in the Cavern Club and has a Broadway-calibre cast for its production of Jersey Boys. For those who love the al fresco experience, Bliss has more than 400 metres of outdoor dining spaces along the breezy Boardwalk at Sea. When it’s time to move indoors, check

out 678 Ocean Place, a three-storey fun emporium filled with bars and specialty restaurants. Italian, French, Asian and steakhouse choices can be found on almost all ships, but here the Texas-style BBQ restaurant comes complete with in-house western dancers. If you’re staying in the ultra-luxe Haven section of the ship, where every suite features a sleekly elegant interior, a spacious private balcony and a personal butler, you may feel a bit guilty about leaving them all on their own. Too bad. Lonely butlers, excellent cruise. Bliss’s itineraries over the next two years include the Caribbean from Miami, Alaska from Seattle, Bahamas and the Caribbean from New York City and the Mexican Riviera from Los Angeles. ncl.com

Mile high

beauty fixer BEST FOR A DULL COMPLEXION

This moisturizer might cost more than a glass or two of your favourite champagne, but why put a price on beauty? The Vichy LiftActiv Collagen Specialist is a crucial investment if you want to avoid looking like a zombie after those long, tiring flights. The LiftActiv Collagen Specialist is enriched with biopeptides, natural mini-proteins that will boost the natural collagen production of your skin. It’s also packed full of vitamin C, that ever-crucial antioxidant that helps prevent free radical damage and unwanted changes in pigmentation. An infusion of Vichy mineralizing water will boost your skin’s natural defences, while Eperuline extracted from the bark of Amazonian trees fights inflammation and protects against UV-induced antioxidant stress. Day after day, your skin will look revived and replenished as the signs of ageing rapidly disappear. $59.95/50ml. vichy.ca —MARLON MORENO

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Contact us at 855 444 0161 or call your travel professional to book Visit emeraldwaterways.ca to learn more *Terms and Conditions: Offers are valid for new Emerald Waterways 2020 bookings only and are non-transferable. Offer applies to Europe river cruises including France and Portugal. Save $1,500 per person on 15+ day cruises or Save $1,000 per person on 8-14 day cruises. Prices for 2020 Europe river cruises are based on 2019 prices. Offers valid from December 1, 2018 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; May 14, 2019 only or until sold out. Pricing listed in Canadian dollars, based on double occupancy and based on lowest cabin category available. Availability is limited and subject to change. Port charges and taxes are included in the price. Offer does not apply to Asia, Croatia, Russia, or Egypt. Offer may be changed, cancelled or withdrawn at any time without notice. A non-refundable deposit of $500 per person is required within 48hrs of booking with full non-refundable payment required by 90 days prior to departure date. This offer is not combinable with any other offer except travel show voucher. For full terms and conditions visit emeraldwaterways.ca. Emerald Waterways, Suite 1025, 401 West Georgia St., Vancouver, BC, V6B 5A1. ÂŠEMERALD WATERWAYS | ALL RIGHTS RESERVED | BC CONSUMER PROTECTION #40178. ECAMA044

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castle IN THE COUNTRYSIDE OF KENT, DOUG O’NEILL GETS A ROYAL WAKE-UP CALL WHEN HE DISCOVERS THE PERFECT PLACE TO SLEEP WITH HISTORY

©VisitBritain/Pete Seaward

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“My my, you certainly sleep around when you’re in jolly old England, I must say.” My cousin Theresa has long had a gift for distilling the loftiest of my travel experiences into something tawdry. Bursting my fancy notions of myself has been her hobby since that day when I was 12 and announced to her that I was adopted and belonged to an aristocratic British family, obviously one with royal connections, and I would one day rejoin them in the posh digs to which I’d become accustomed. Though I wasn’t actually adopted, I did, later in life, find myself spending time in some of England’s best beds. Once in Bath, the city famous for its Georgian architecture and Roman baths, I slept in what had been the drawing room of English novelist Jane Austen when she lived there in the early 1800s. On a visit to London’s famous Dorchester Hotel, I padded barefoot over the marble-floored bathroom in The Harlequin Suite, where Elizabeth Taylor had slept on numerous occasions. And I once emptied my pockets to spend the night at the The Royal Albion Hotel in Broadstairs, Kent, simply because that’s where Charles Dickens used to bed down when in the seaside resort town. I once lucked out with a booking at Hartwell House in Buckinghamshire. Not only had it served as the residence of the exiled French King Louis XVIII, but later guests included both the Queen Mum and Kylie Minogue. And while I didn’t spend the night at Highclere Castle, the setting for the hugely popular Downton Abbey series, I did take afternoon tea at the famous country house two years ago. Is it possible that I sat on a chair where Dame Maggie Smith had enjoyed her coffee break? Experiencing the lives of the rich and famous—even a taste of it—adds fanciful touch to any holiday. That’s what I banked on during my most recent visit to the county of Kent, in southeastern England, where I settled in for a stay in Hever Castle, one of the many palatial homes in one of the oldest home counties on the border of Greater London. The county is also widely known as the “Garden of England,” covered in fertile farmland and where almost every country estate boasts its own orchard. I was drawn to Kent for the grand homes and lodges, of which Hever Castle is just one. The doublemoated edifice should hold significance for anyone who’s studied the history of the monarchy or watched 38

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the racy Tudors miniseries, where sultry Jonathan Rhys Meyers plays King Henry VIII, best remembered for having had six wives, two of whom he beheaded. Hever Castle is the 13th-century double-moated edifice where Henry’s second queen, the ill-fated Anne Boleyn, mother of Elizabeth I, spent her childhood. Henry stayed at Hever Castle during his courtship of Anne (while still married to wife number one). The castle, renovated in the early 1900s by the deep-pocketed American tycoon William Waldorf Astor, now makes its 28 luxury bedrooms available to overnight guests. The opulent rooms, located in the Astor and Anne Boleyn Wings, are attached to the castle proper and reachable through a private gated entrance. I felt I’d entered an inner circle from the moment of my arrival, when I was welcomed by a costumed Queen Anne. I reached my bedroom, the Tulip Room, by navigating a dimly lit corridor under the watchful eyes of historic figures looking down from unsmiling portraits. My room was everything I’d hope for: palatial. The wood-panelled walls were decked in tapestries and carvings, and a set of leaded windows looked out onto Italianate gardens. At my disposal were an antique writing desk, a separate reading nook and a chaise lounge should I wish to move about the room. The pièce de résistance? A huge Romanesque bed with four ornate pillars and a cathedral-like headboard that reached for the ceiling. My second-favourite room in the castle lodgings was the oak-panelled Drawing Room, which in the Tudor period had been the domestic offices of the housekeeping staff. That’s where I nursed my evening whiskey

perfectly oozing egg when snippets from Katherine Longhi’s book, Hever Castle and Anne Boleyn: Castles and Countesses, reminded me of the castle’s dark past and King Henry’s many wrongdoings. Not only did Henry have Anne Boleyn beheaded on trumped-up charges of infidelity, but at his behest the ownership of his decapitated wife’s family home was transferred to the crown. I wasn’t feeling the love for Henry and began to rethink my dinner reservations for my final night in Kent—at the King Henry VIII gastro pub, a 10-minute walk away. But the pub had won a prize for its food, so off I went, once more with my e-reader in hand. Turns out the kitchen staff at the King Henry VIII Pub know what they were doing and so they should: there’s been a pub on this very spot since 1597. The food was delicious. Some time between tucking into my entrée of crab and king prawn linguine and dessert that snippets from Longhi’s book made my world right again. King Henry’s fourth wife, Anne of Cleaves, not only escaped the executioner’s axe after the end of her marriage to Henry, she also outlived him by 10 years. But it gets better: in return for agreeing to have her marriage to Henry annulled, Anne of Cleaves negotiated eventual ownership of Hever Castle and several other properties to keep her in a style befitting a lady. In the spoils of marital war with capricious King Henry, was it possible the lady came out on top? With that, I finished off my dessert and enjoyed a leisurely stroll back to my lavish room and slept like a lamb… in a bed I’m sure Cleaves would have appreciated. hevercastle.co.uk

OPENING PAGE: Kent’s Hever Castle looks like it might have jumped straight out of a period drama. ON THIS PAGE: The maze at Leeds Castle, also in Kent, has confounded many a visitor.

©VisitBritain/Pete Seaward

and chatted with other guests under the Boleyn coat of arms. The posh vibe continued in the morning as I sat down to what I assumed was your aristocrat’s standard breakfast: grilled kippers and Scottish smoked salmon. But it was during Afternoon Tea that I really craved Facetime with my cousin to show her I’d truly arrived: There I sat in the Anne Boleyn Wing, noshing on Kentish ham and local pear chutney sandwiches while gazing out the window into the orchard attended to by aproned staff. I was again tempted to Skype my cousin in the afternoon when I strolled rather lazily through the manicured grounds, which included a rose garden of 4,000 bushes, a giant topiary chess set, grottoes, fountains, a yew maze and ornate waterfalls. I found lots to occupy myself beyond the boundaries of 50-hectare property of Hever Castle. I wondered if Anne, as a young genteel woman, was permitted such freedom in her youth. I took a day trip to the White Cliffs of Dover and I toured beach towns, sampled organic foods sold at various country estates, and took in some of the best gardens in England. It’s a landscape that’s hosted so much of English history: More than 1,400 years of it at Canterbury Cathedral and a key period at Chartwell, the stately home where Sir Winston Churchill lived from 1924 until his death in 1965. Coastal towns like Whitstable retain their traditional vibe with harbourfront fish markets and colourful cottages. And of course, there are cultural spots like Margate, made famous by the great Romantic painter JMW Turner. My second-last morning in Hever Castle found me at breakfast with my electronic book reader in hand. I’d just dipped my toasted toy soldier into

A Weekend in the Country You can reach Kent from London by train from Charing Cross, London Waterloo East, Victoria or St. Pancras International, the last of which is a high-speed service, taking less than 40 minutes. Of course, Hever Castle is not the only posh place to stay in Kent. Sissinghurst Castle Farmhouse, on the 120-hectare country estate owned by author Vita Sackville-West, has seven luxury bedrooms with full access to the award-winning gardens of Sissinghurst Castle. sissinghurstcastlefarmhouse.com Visitors staying overnight in the Stable Courtyard Bedrooms at Leeds Castle can enjoy afternoon tea in the elegant dining room overlooking the castle moat. leeds-castle.com Back in the 16th century Five Bells Inn in Braeburne served as an overnight stop for pilgrims on their way to Canterbury. The inn has since been fully restored and has four chic bedroom suites for visitors. ramblinns.com BOLD

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ROAD ENDS 2019 FORD RANGER

and relentless, the all-new 2019 Ford Ranger takes “Built Ford Tough” to an entirely different level. The survivor of vicious torture tests that would harrow a battle tank, the Ranger has been engineered to set a new standard in durability. Optimized for offroad, all-season adventure, this ironclad midsize pickup is built to thrive on the most rugged of roads and bear the heaviest of loads. Each Ranger packs an impressive array of Adventure, Design, Tough, and Technology features, creating a cutting-edge ride equipped to handle the worst in stride. Powerful, agile, and customizable, the Ranger can take you wherever you want to go...and where other trucks fear to tread. This is part one of our look at some of the roughest road trips

that Canada has to offer, exploring the Tough and Adventure features of the re-imagined Ranger that makes driving them so rewarding. Where the road ends, true adventure begins.

Contwoyto Winter Road (Denison’s Road) Prominently featured on The History Channel’s Ice Road Truckers, Denison’s Road is one of Saskatchewan’s most important — and unforgiving — heavy haul roads. This frigid 600-km stretch runs through the heart of Northern Canada’s mining territory, offering dangerous passage to industrial ore haulers through Nunavut’s ivory tundras and frozen lakes. The isolated conditions promise stunning arctic beauty, but also tangible danger: the complete lack of

Produced by Moreno & Co. 2019

Conquering Canada’s Wildest Road Trips in the

Perilous mountain passes buffeted by blizzards. Breakneck turns around forgotten coastal bends. Mud-slick slopes in wild places untouched by man. From coast to coast, Canada’s diverse wilderness hides havens of untamed majesty, roaring rivers and sheer cliffs that are the stuff of truly legendary excursions. Where some see danger, the daring see opportunity: an invitation to prove themselves against the toughest trails, paths, and highways in the country; a chance to transcend the extreme and impossible on the journey of a lifetime. Risk calls to these intrepid few like a beacon, rousing them to rise to the greatest challenges in the great outdoors. If you count yourself among this courageous cohort, Ford has a truck for you. Fearless, peerless,

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traction on the ice roads punishes the failings of both vehicle and driver. In spite of the warnings, thousands of recreational drivers brave Denison’s Road every year; thrillseekers and daredevils inspired by the challenge of beating Canada’s toughest winter road and forging lasting memories of the sights along the way. A successful arctic odyssey on Denison’s Road requires a truck that can match the constitution of the industrial workhorses that frequent it. The 2019 Ranger has both metal and mettle in spades: its fully boxed, high-strength steel frame can weather impacts from snowedover boulders and icy outcroppings without deviation. Steel bumpers provide an extra layer of security in low-visibility flurries where collisions are more likely, while the attached tow hooks can get you back on the road if you find your ride snowed in after a night under the northern lights. The all-new Terrain Management System is your best friend on a road with as little traction as Denison’s: available as part of the FX4 Off-Road Package, the system will adjust transmission gearing and throttle responsiveness for optimum traction and performance across grass, mud, gravel, sand and yes — snow. Other notable upgrades in the package like allterrain tires with aggressive tread, steel bash and skid plates, and off-road tuned suspension make the Ranger right at home in Denison’s frozen wastes, inspiring the confidence you need to make it through Nunavut in one piece.

Gray Creek Pass

front suspension with coil springs and gas-charged shock absorbers delivers masterful agility when clambering over rocks, while the two-stage parabolic rear leaf springs provide low friction flexibility in the axle for those tight cliff corners. Intelligently designed breakover and departure angles round out the Ranger’s all-terrain excellence, giving you the clearance you need to get over the landslides and downed trees common in highly mountainous regions.

Quebec Highway 389 Bridging the expanse between the towns of Fermont and Baie-Corneau, Route 389 is 563 km of twisty wilderness with a fell reputation. Surrounded on both sides by an endless sea of green punctuated by the occasional wetland, Route 389 is an immersive introduction to Quebec’s teeming Boreal forests. While campers, kayakers, hunters, and climbers all frequent the highway en route to their camps and cottages, its brutal character demands caution from even the most seasoned outdoorsman. Sections of the narrow gravel road often close due to mud and snow, forcing detours through

confusing forest paths. With gas and drinkable water scarce for hundreds of kilometres, Highway 389 just might be the most grueling challenge on this list. Of course, the biggest challenges are also the most satisfying to overcome. Beating 389 calls for equal parts planning, preparation, and pure muscle. The 2019 Ranger is exemplary in that last regard, sporting a 2.3L EcoBoost Engine capable of up to 270 Horsepower and a best-in-class 310 lbs of gas torque. A best-in-class payload and tow rating of 748 kg and 3,402 kg, respectively, offers ample capacity for all your wilderness gear, along with the extra water and gas tanks you’ll need to ensure your 389 adventure ends in triumph. When you’re inevitably forced off road and made to navigate the endless green, you’ll once again appreciate the virtues of the FX4 Off-Road Package. The package’s included electronic-locking rear differential locks up the rear axle to maximize traction, making quick work of logs, rutted mud, and whatever else the woods can throw at you.

READY FOR THE JOURNEY AND CHALLENGE OF A LIFETIME? LEARN MORE ABOUT THE 2019 FORD RANGER AT www.ford.ca/trucks/ranger/

This high-elevation playground offers high excitement for those that come prepared. Located in the Kootenay region of British Columbia, Gray Creek Pass sits approximately 6,800 feet above sea level. Poor visibility, steep grades, and the possibility of washouts are just some of the things to worry about when navigating the Pass, while the ever-changing incline threatens brake failure to the pedal-happy. This century-old forestry road was opened to public use in 1990, and continues to draw both cyclists and off-road enthusiasts for creek fishing and wildlife watching in the heights of B.C.’s most picturesque region. You won’t want to leave home without four-wheel drive for this one. The 2019 Ranger has you covered: the electronic shift-on-the-fly system (ESOF) transitions effortless between high and low four-wheel drive modes, responding dynamically to changes in elevation. You’ll be experiencing a lot of high and low in Gray Creek pass, but rest assured: you can lean on the Ranger’s endless adaptability to see you through. The short and long-arm BOLD

Door photo by Stefanel/Shutterstock; bridge photo By Viacheslav Lopatin/Shutterstock

Ciao,

Roma!

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ON THESE PAGES FROM LEFT: In Rome, you never know what lurks inside each doorway; the Vatican stands guard just beyond the Ponte Sant’Angelo.

ROME IS A BIT OF A MESS—IN THE BEST POSSIBLE WAY. THIS MASSIVE CITY IS FULL OF CRAZY DRIVERS, SPECTACULAR ARCHITECTURE, ANCIENT RUINS, SAVOURY STREET PIZZA AND GELATO SO RICH AND CREAMY, SARAH TRELEAVEN PONDERS HOW ANYONE CAN STAND TO LIVE ANYWHERE ELSE. BOLD

I TA L Y N O W

SEE & DO

Take a walk in the Italian capital’s most colourful neighbourhoods ON THIS PAGE: Xxxxx

TREASURE HUNT Borghetto Flaminio flea market is held on Sundays near Piazza del Popolo, and you’ll find vintage leather goods, clothing, glassware, clocks, watches and many other previously loved items. Piazza della Marina, 32

TAKE IT TO THE RIVER The pretty Basilica di San Bartolomeo all’Isola sits on a tiny island in the middle of the Tiber River, and is well worth a visit to see its ornate interior. Be sure to cross on the north side of the river via the lovely little footbridge, Pons Fabricius—the oldest Roman bridge in the city. sanbartolomeo.org

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ON THESE PAGES FROM LEFT: Stopping for a sip in Rome’s Trastevere neighbourhood; a hearty bowl of beans with pork rind from Trattoria Armando.

Trastevere photo by Catarina Belova

THE BROOKLYN OF ROME Try Trastevere for its mix of sunny piazzas, second-hand bookstores, artisanal craft shops and pretty vine-covered buildings. At dusk, the metal shutters lift to reveal myriad drinking and dining options, many of which attract Rome’s beautiful people.

E AT & D R I N K

Pasta isn’t the only thing on the menu ART OF THE APERITIVO Mimì e Cocò is a great place to observe Italy’s wonderful aperitivo tradition, which melds the heavenly combination of discount drinks and snacks. (There are few more life-affirming combinations than an Aperol spritz or glass of Prosecco and a bowl of salty potato chips.) mimiecoco.com A CERTAIN NOTORIETY A tiny old-school trattoria, Armando al Pantheon has a date-night vibe. Expect a mix of locals and tourists (the word is out on this place), and classic Roman dishes like saltimbocca (veal, ham and sage cooked in white wine). Reserve far in advance. armandoalpantheon.it MEAT CUTE Just steps from the Pantheon, L’Antica Salumeria is basically a small cave filled with cured meats—and it’s just as glorious as that sounds. Stop here for souvenirs, but mostly for delectable sandwiches (that can be consumed on the steps of the monument just outside its doors). anticasalumeriapantheon.business.site YOUR NEW LOCAL Al Vino Al Vino is the kind of wine bar every neighbourhood in the world could use: It’s elegant without being fussy, offers a wide range of small plates for snacking and has a superb selection of Italian wines. Show up here before or after dinner (or just ride out the evening chatting with the very friendly wait staff). Via dei Serpenti, 19 GET IN LINE Prepare yourself for the lineups that often form in front of La Carbonara long before it opens for dinner. True, there are many wonderful places to eat in Rome, but this place is undeniably charming with its exposed brick, dark wood furniture and, yes, rich and creamy spaghetti carbonara. The deep-fried artichoke, a classic dish of the Jewish-Roman community, is a must. lacarbonara.it BOLD

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From food to fashion, Rome remains over the top DO IT ITALIAN-STYLE Italian clothing brand Aspesi offers nicely tailored, colourful and all-around beautiful clothing without being overly hip or crazy expensive. (It’s sort of like the Italian version of France’s A.P.C.) Freshen your wardrobe and then look forward to saying, “Oh, this? I picked it up in Rome.” aspesi.com WINDOW SHOPPING Take a stroll down the Via dei Coronari, near Piazza Navona, and explore the little shops tucked down this and other cobblestone lanes—from leather goods and gifts to housewares and antiques. MAKE A GROCERY LIST Rome has a massive Eataly outpost on the edges of town and it is absolutely worth the schlep through residential areas and across highways. Roam multiple floors to stock up on fancy little things like jars of pesto and Parmesan butter, superb chocolates and bitter Amaro. You can also eat in at one of several restaurants. eataly.net

ON THESE PAGES FROM LEFT: Italian fashion purveyors like Aspesi have a knack for timeless chic; Sink right in at Hotel Hassler Roma; G-Rough’s exposed brand of cool.

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G-Rough Hotel photo by Serena Eller

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Get truly ensconced in luxury & history ATOP THE SPANISH STEPS The Hotel Hassler Roma, one of the city’s most famous, is traditional without being stuffy. Each uniquely decorated guest room features interesting objets like horse-hair trunks or Venetian blown glass. There’s a playful clamshell bar for drinks under the setting Roman sun, and Michelin-star Imago offers fine dining with a fine view over the city’s rooftops. hotelhasslerroma.com STEP INTO HIGH DESIGN Just steps from elegant Piazza Navona, G-Rough combines sophisticated luxury with cool kid details: patina walls, mirror-tiled bathrooms, mosaic floors and an overall lounge vibe. The approach is “Made in Italy,” and G-Rough pays homage to Italian designs and brands from the 1930s through the 1950s. Robot butlers and lifestyle managers bring the property squarely into the 21st century. g-rough.com LEFT AT THE COLOSSEUM Mercure Rome Colosseum Centre is an unfussy, affordable option in a prime location right between the Colosseum and its attendant ruins, and the charming Monti neighbourhood, a perfect place to poke around small boutiques and grab a big plate of carbonara. There’s also a panoramic terrace complete with roof bar and swimming pool. accorhotels.com BOLD

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Photo by Ronnybas Frimages

YOU WANTED TO RIDE LA BICICLETTA?

WELL,THEN,

PEDALA! In Italy’s gorgeous but hilly Piedmont region, SARAH TRELEAVEN hops on a bike, as the famous idiom suggests. Now she’s just got to pedal

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here’s never a bad time to visit northern Italy’s Piedmont region, but when I visited the area was in the middle of its grape harvest and there were bunches of plump Nebbiolo grapes hanging heavy on the seemingly ubiquitous vines. Porcini mushroom, hazelnuts, chestnuts and white truffles were in season and very popular on menus. I could also hear the occasional gunshot coming from wooded areas, which meant that wild boar season was on its way. Warm, sunny days gave way to cool evenings perfect for sleeping with the shutters wide open. I took all of this in while on a bicycle—not my typical form of transportation. I had signed on for the Barolo Gastronomic Cycling tour with Exodus (operated by Headwater, which is based in the United Kingdom) and I’m still not entirely sure why. It’s possible that my brain was overpowered by the “gastronomic” part of the tour. I knew Piedmont, in Italy’s northeast, bordering France and Switzerland, was hilly— it’s surrounded on three sides by the Alps and is known for its Instagram-ready valleys. But I was in slight denial about the exact nature of the topography, though I knew I was not in serious biking shape. About midway through my first day of cycling, when I noticed that almost every other cyclist I

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encountered was wearing professional cycling gear—head-to-toe spandex, specialized shoes, fancy aerodynamic helmets—I realized that I might be in a bit of trouble, with my scuffed-up checkerboard Vans and a purple spring dress I contemplate throwing away monthly. Less than an hour later, I was walking my bike up another damn hill. I started off in Benevello at a small hotel called Villa d’Amelia, sitting by their pool with a view of the Alps in the distance and abundant pear trees in the foreground. But even as I struggled with the physical challenges of three-to-four daily hours of intensive cycling, the beauty of the region overwhelmed me. The contrast between Italy’s major cities, especially a wellfunctioning machine like nearby Milan, and countryside can seem stark. In Piedmont, the near-universal embrace of slowness and pride in craft and ancient tradition was immediately and immensely endearing. One night in Grinzane Cavour, the owner of lovely Casa Pavesi served me an Aperol spritz alongside a plate of superb cured meats and cheeses and the near-ubiquitous Grissini I had to come to find a perfect accompaniment to a cocktail, and then she took a seat on the arm of a nearby couch to chat. “Tonight your dinner is in the castle, yes?” And it was. My dinner was in a 13th-century castle just across the street from my 17th-century B&B. It was extraordinary. As I continued my journey, cycling or walking by day and indulging in guinea fowl with caramelized onions or ravioli stuffed with roasted meats by night, I felt myself slowing down. There was something about my lack of biking proficiency that forced me to take it easy. Progress was slower than I expected, and I stopped much more often than I had hoped. I walked my bike up steep hills, often turning to admire the views of valleys lined with grape vines and peach or lemon-coloured villas. I stopped to gaze affectionately at pomegranate trees, their fruit ripening to a deep red, and to listen to hazelnuts dropping from the trees. I became uncharacteristically more concerned with the journey than the destination.

ON THIS PAGE CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: A plate of calamari and peppers; chef Mark Lanteri of Castello fame; grapes ready for harvest; feeling quite at home at Villa dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Amelia.

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“Tonight your dinner is in the castle, yes?”

Night falls over Villa d’Amelia, deep in the heart of Piedmont.

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he highlights of the trip were many, and soon I came to see the bike as a key tool. I could cover more ground than if I was walking. Unlike being in a car or bus, I could engage with my surroundings, smelling fermentation in the air when I hit Bricco di Neive. I stopped for lunch in pretty little Barolo, sampling Barbaresco and Nebbiolo vintages. I was able to pick up souvenirs—mostly food-related, including toasted hazelnuts and white truffle oil and bottles of light but creamy Arneis, the local white grape—and stuff them into my backpack and panniers. I parked my bike in Alba’s town square and sat and ate two chocolate-hazelnut cookies sandwiched with Nutella, and then went from store to store to smell rich white and black truffles. Headwater did its best to prepare me. They handled all of the logistics, booking me into a different hotel every two nights, transporting my luggage and making dinner reservations every evening. My local hosts Greg and Laura regularly checked in with me, making sure I was enjoying myself, offering tips and troubleshooting the shortcuts I inevitably sought out. On the last day, in the midst of an uphill bike ride that had seemingly gone on forever, Laura appeared in her van and inquired whether I might prefer to take a lift and spend the rest of the day sitting by the pool. And I did prefer that. The next time I do a tour like this, I’ll walk—that’s what I kept thinking. But I was drawn to the bike, over and over, walking for a bit and then riding when I regained my breath. Hopping on when the road finally started to slope downhill, the warm wind in my face, as I passed wineries and seemingly STAY endless and highly territorial barking dogs. Villa d’Amelia, a beautiful property in I would reach a hilltop village just in time to picturesque Benevello, has all of the hear the church bells ring and it would fill warmth of a family-run B&B combined me with absolute joy. with the sleek service and elevated look I don’t know if I’ll ever do another cycling tour, but I’m tempted, especially now that of a boutique hotel. There’s a heated it’s over and the steep hills are a fading pool overlooking vineyards and framed memory. But the trip provided a surprising by pretty little pear trees. Its Michelinbalance for me: A not insignificant challenge star restaurant, Damiano Nigro, serves paired with the absolute indulgence of innovative and delicious dishes that eating wild game, drinking Barolo and showcase regional ingredients, like lamb, lounging by pools with amazing views of pigeon and chestnuts. villadamelia.com Piedmont’s spectacular landscapes. I’m not sure those evenings eating tajarin thick EAT with butter and Parmesan would have felt Marc Lanteri Al Castello is a formal as good as it did if my thighs weren’t aching Michelin-star restaurant newly opened in from the day’s activity. a 13th-century UNESCO World Heritage When I travel, I frequently announce that I need a drink when I arrive somewhere. This castle in tiny Grinzane Cavour. Standout time, rolling into the courtyards of elegant dishes include pan-seared scallops with little hotels, the valleys once again at my chestnut mousseline, homemade spinach feet, I felt like I had really earned it. pasta “buttons” stuffed with cheese and

Piedmont Essentials

shaved Alba white truffle, and tenderloin of venison with pears poached in Nebbiolo. marclanteri.it DO Try one of Headwater’s Exodus is the agent in Canada) biking or walking tours in the Piedmont region. In addition to spectacularly beautiful and hilly vistas, the area also has superb rustic cuisine. Headwater handles all of the logistics, from hotel and restaurant bookings to transporting luggage, troubleshooting routes and recommending points of interest. exodustravels.com BOLD

Photo by SkandaRamana/Shutterstock.com

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I TA L Y N O W

IN THE CITY OF MICHELANGELO AND MEDICI, THE ART OF STYLE IS ALIVE AND WELL – by Vawn Himmelsbach –

ON THESE PAGES FROM LEFT: Florence’s famous cathedral, complete with duomo; style maven Marquis Antonio Andrea Raffaelli, the man behind Il Blog Del Marchese, hangs out with a little pal.

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ON THIS PAGE CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Ready to hit the town in high fashion with a coat from an exhibition at the Museum of Costume and Fashion in Pitti Palace; fine china from Richard Ginori 1735; hot in heels at Pitti Palace; a clutch from the Pitti Palace exhibition; more shoes from the Pitti Palace archives; Florence street fashion; trying on some new looks; the cathedralâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s duomo; interior of the new Richard Ginori store.

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lorence is known for its medieval architecture, leather shops and Michelangelo’s David; it’s also home to some of Italy’s legendary brands, like Gucci, Salvatore Ferragamo, Emilio Pucci and Roberto Cavalli. While it’s long been associated with high fashion, it hasn’t always been considered a trendsetter. But that’s changing, with Vogue suggesting Florence could be the world’s fifth fashion capital after New York, Paris, London and Milan, thanks to young designers and concept stores popping up alongside top fashion houses. Here’s how to experience the city like a true Florentine fashionista.

GUCCI GARDEN Gucci opened its first restaurant and retail/ exhibition space last year, located inside the 14 th-century Palazzo della Mercanzia. The pièce de résistance is Gucci Osteria, a 50-seat restaurant where all the details— from green-hued décor to pink-patterned plates—reflect the Gucci aesthetic. Helmed by Michelin-starred chef Massimo Bottura, it serves up Italian classics such as Parmigiano Reggiano tortellini, alongside dishes inspired by Bottura’s travels (think Peruvian tostadas and Asian pork-belly buns). Next to the restaurant, a boutique sells exclusive Gucci goods, including home décor, and the upper floors house an exhibition space dedicated to vintage and modern collections alongside memorabilia and contemporary art. gucci.com

RICHARD GINORI 1735 Florence is known for its artisanship, which often combines traditional methods with contemporary design—such as Richard Ginori 1735, a Florentine maison renowned for its beautifully crafted porcelain tableware. The name refers to its 18 th century origins, when Marquis Carlo Andrea Ginori was inspired by his passion for “white gold” to open a porcelain factory. Now considered an icon of style, Richard Ginori tableware continues to be produced by artisans on the outskirts of Florence. You’ll find both contemporary and vintage styles, along with cult favourites such as Oriente Italiano, at its flagship showroom in Florence. richardginori1735.com

GALLERIA DEL COSTUME Florence is home to some of the world’s top museums and galleries (like the Accademia Gallery that houses the original sculpture of David). But even if you’re not a fashionista,

you don’t want to miss the Museo della Moda e del Costume, which traces history through fashion, with a collection of more than 6,000 artefacts from the 18th century to present day. Located in various rooms of the Palazzina della Meridiana inside the Pitti Palace, the collection includes court and gala gowns, haute couture dresses and theatrical costumes. uffizi.it

CASA DELL’ORAFO Tourists flock to the Ponte Vecchio, a medieval stone arch bridge that has housed shops since the 13 th century, where goldsmiths and jewellers now sell their wares. But for a more authentic experience, go where the locals go: across the bridge, to Casa Dell’Orafo, a nondescript stone building tucked away in an alley where the Medici family once brought together Florence’s top goldsmiths. Today, it’s home to more than 20 Florentine goldsmiths and engravers, such as Nerdi Orafi, a tiny artisan workshop where jewelry is made (and restored) as it was in medieval times. It’s hard to resist the Renaissance-style jewelry with a modern twist. nerdiorafifirenze.it

STYLE MAVEN: IL MARCHESE Style maven Marquis Antonio Andrea Raffaelli, who goes by the name Il Marchese, is the man behind men’s fashion blog Il Blog Del Marchese (The Italian Gentleman), though he prefers to be thought of as a style observer than a blogger. The Florence-based Il Marchese is known for his refined Italian style, which has caught the attention of GQ, Vanity Fair and The New York Times. His blog has an English version, with style advice and coverage of events such as Florence’s Pitti Uomo. ilblogdelmarchese.com

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Our BOLD Guide to Wellness and Well-Being

THE ROAD TO ZEN

Photo by Suraphat Nuea-on

In Thailand, it can feel like thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a golden-hued Buddha watching over you from every hilltop.

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pleasure

Photos courtesy of The Siam Hotel

ON THIS PAGE: Time to take a plunge at the Siam Hotel. ON THE OPPOSITE PAGE: The Siam Hotelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s menu is a feast for the senses.

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principles

Body and soul, or even animal therapy, Thailand has more ways to wellness than you can imagine. ANITA DRAYCOTT reports.

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Photo by Oleksandr Pidvalnyi

“In Thailand, giving care is a true art, whether it’s toward these huge, beautiful creatures or, more typically, for stressed-out humans who need to centre themselves”

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am knee-deep in the river, giving a 20-yearold elephant her daily bath. As I gently brush Memei’s adorable freckled ears, she seems to be loving the attention. Nu, her mahout—that is, her trainer—informs me that each of the pachyderms here at Patara Elephant Farm, in Chiang Mai in northern Thailand, has his or her own quirks. Memei is afraid of mice! A classic elephant stereotype that turns out to be true. In Thailand, giving care is a true art, whether it’s toward these huge, beautiful creatures or, more typically, for stressed-out humans who need to centre themselves. In my journeys around Thailand, I have experienced some of the world’s best wellness strategies—from massage to lessons in healthy cooking—but this time I am glad to be able to provide wellness for another being who needs it. The elephant, revered in the Buddhist religion as a symbol of protection, has also played an important role in Thailand’s history and economy. Centuries ago, royals and warriors rode them in combats against the Burmese. More recently, elephants hauled lumber from Thai jungles. But when the teak exportation business dwindled, many pachyderms and their mahouts became unemployed. Fortunately, they are now finding new careers in “elephant-centric” responsible tourism. Pat Theerapat, founder of the Patara Elephant Farm, is passionate about the health and happiness of his elephant family and eager to teach us “day trainers” as much as possible about their care, including daily feeding and grooming. Until now, I had only viewed elephants from afar or behind bars. At Patara, I find myself literally face-to-trunk with a small herd. Earlier that morning I had introduced myself to Memei and her daughter Naya. Nu hands me a basket full of sugar cane sticks and bananas and tells me to start feeding Memei. Elephants eat 10 per cent of their weight per day, so feeding is an integral part of the bonding experience. My first reaction to being so close to these creatures is unnerving, especially when Naya playfully winds her trunk around my shoulders in order to swipe a banana. Soon I relax. Elephants may be huge, but they have a great deal of dignity and grace. After the feeding, Nu gives me a leafy branch and instructs me to dust Memei’s coat. Then we ambled down and into a river for bath time. By the time I’d finished scrubbing every inch of Mamei, she thanked me by filling her trunk with water and showering me. I hope that old adage that “an elephant never forgets” is true. I certainly won’t forget the experience. Nor do I forget about Thailand’s capacity to take care of humans, too. After Mamei’s “spa treatment,” it was time for mine. After a ON THIS PAGE: A mother short flight from Chiang Mai, I land in elephant helps her calf cool down at a Thai elephant farm. Koh Samui, Thailand’s third largest island. Backpackers first discovered the beach shacks of Koh Samui in the 1970s. Today, the island is dotted with luxury hotels.

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Eschewing artificial glitz for sustainability, the management of Six Senses has created a symbiotic nature/nurture experience for the well-being of guests. Under the direction of Wellness and Spa director, Khun Keerana, you can get more than a massage here. The three-day Vitality Retreat includes yoga on the beach, Pilates, meditation and chakra balancing. Sleep experts, healers and astrologists are part of the holistic team. Spa treatments are given in thatched roof “salas,” cooled by the tropical breezes of the Gulf of Thailand. I began my pampering with a Thai massage, said to have been created by Shivago Komarpaj, a physician who lived more than 2,500 years ago who is said to be the personal doctor to the Buddha. he two-hour series of contortions and stretching movements is patterned on the Asanas of Hatha Yoga. Your masseuse might hike your legs over your head while she presses her elbow into your hamstrings. Don’t be alarmed when she turns you over and tries to twist you into a sitting pretzel. A Thai massage is more revitalizing than relaxing, but at the end you feel like you’ve had a total body workout. Beware: it can become addictive. In contrast to the gentle waves and breezes of Koh Samui, landing in Bangkok can be downright frenetic. But arriving at The Siam Hotel via the property’s vintage riverboat transported me into a much more tranquil world in the middle of the bustling capital. My debonnaire butler, Paul, escorts me along a path, past a swimming pool, to the antique carved wooden doors of my villa, where I find I have a courtyard with my own plunge pool. While Paul unpacks my bags, I join The Siam’s sous chef, Thammarach, for a Thai cooking lesson. What nourishes body and soul better than a bowl of spicy tom yum soup? In fact, researchers at Thailand’s Kasetsart University and Japan’s Kyoto and Kinki Universities became interested in the soup’s immune-boosting qualities after noticing that the incidence of digestive tract and other cancers was lower in Thailand ON THESE PAGES FROM LEFT than in other countries. TO RIGHT: A young woman pays her respects at a Buddhist temple; Many of the ingredients a bird’s eye view of Bangkok’s used in tom yum and other Grand Palace; the view of the Gulf Thai cuisine—turmeric, of Thailand from poolside at Six galangal, coriander, Senses Samui. lemongrass and fresh chillies— have immuneboosting and diseasefighting properties.

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A healthy slice of Siam JET LAG RELIEF

At the Akyra Hotel in Chiang Mai’s trendy Nimman Road neighbourhood, room amenities include pillow menus, a Thai herbal sleep tonic and the makings for a different cocktail every evening. theakyra.com/chiang-mai BESTOW BLESSINGS

ood is taken so seriously in Thailand that kings have written odes to curries. Once you’ve tasted the real thing, you will forever crave the complex and mystical mélange. We start our morning with a tuk-tuk ride to a local market where the chef buys some herbs for our class as we dodge fellow shoppers on motor scooters. Back at The Siam, we don aprons in the private cooking-class kitchen overlooking the river. Chef demonstrates how to tackle each ingredient, from bruising lemongrass to chiffonading kaffir lime leaves. He explains that Thai food contains five major flavours: sweet, sour, spicy, salty, bitter. Each dish should have a least two of those tastes; the key is getting the right balance. Hence the need to keep testing as you cook and add more chillies, more fish sauce, more coconut milk or more palm sugar as your palate dictates. We concoct tom yum soup, a fiery broth with jumbo shrimps, topped with fresh coriander and drops of chilli oil. Then we take on pork with red curry, a marvellous melange of all of requisite flavours. For our last dish, the green chicken curry, chef teaches me to make curry paste from scratch, pounding the toasted coriander and cumin seeds, garlic, shallots, coriander roots, chillies, galangal and lemongrass with a mortar and pestle. On my last day in the kingdom, ON THE OPPOSITE PAGE I drift off to sleep pondering CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: this unique and sensual land Enjoying Bangkok at night at the where one can be nurtured Cru Champagne Bar on Red Sky’s and pampered in the most 55th Floor; a suite at Akyra Manor Chiang Mai; seared scallops, serendipitous ways. Some complete with red okra, from Paste experiences are equally pleasing Bangkok’s kitchen; the pool at for both the body and the soul. Anantara Chiang Mai Resort is on pataraelephantfarm.com; the banks of the Mae Ping River. sixsenses.com; thesiamhotel.com; thailandinsider.com

With its many temples and saffronswathed Buddhist monks, Chiang Mai is the ideal place to take part in an earlymorning ritual. Their religion forbids the monks from asking for food, so the custom is to buy a basket containing rice and fruit from a vendor, remove your shoes, kneel down and offer the basket to a passing monk. For this he’ll bless you. Whatever your beliefs, it’s a feel-good way to start your day. FLYING YOGA Elevate your yoga skills with Yoga Fly lessons at the Anantara Chiang Mai Resort. A special hammock allows you to use gravity to improve core balance. anantara.com ROYAL TASTES

At the Michelin-starred Paste in Bangkok, chef Bee creates dishes based on heirloom recipes that once delighted the royal family. Don’t miss her Thai crab omelette with 31 ingredients. pastebangkok.com SILKY SMOOTH Indulge in the signature Organic Golden Silk Royal Pampering treatment at Bangkok’s Divana Spa, which uses silk threads, cocoons and serums to relax and rejuvenate. divana-dvn.com ANCIENT MEDICINES Take a tuk-tuk to Bangkok’s Wat Pho temple, famous for its enormous Reclining Buddha and its ancient school of Thai medicine and massage—you can combine culture and wellness in one visit. If you sign up for massage lessons, you may become immensely popular with your friends back home. watpomassage.com RED SKY AT NIGHT Imbibe some bubbles, caviar and oysters at the Cru Champagne Bar at Red Sky on the 55th floor of the Centara Grand in Bangkok. We’re talking sky food, not street food. Cheers! champagnecru.com

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B O L D PA R T N E R S H I P

THAILAND: I NO ENNUI IN KO SAMUI

f ever the landscape of a country seemed handcrafted to soothe the soul and heal the body, no country would have a greater claim to such divine artisanship than Thailand. Ornate temples and opulent palaces provide contrast to the broad swathes of green jungle and misty mountains that shield wandering elephants from the eclectic modern energy of Bangkok. Where the land ends, fishermen set off in their distinctive long-tail boats, gently parting the crystal azure waters that have achieved worldwide adoration through billions of postcards. From the warm comfort of a white sand beach, the keen-eyed visitor might pick out the breathtaking outline of Wat Arun, its elaborately decorated spire a reminder of the rich cultural traditions that continue to thrive even in Thailandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s ultramodern areas. Thailand is both physically and spiritually beautiful, home to an ancient Theravada Buddhist heritage that continues to guide social life in the country to this day. While many Western travellers are drawn to Thailand by the allure of beach parties and elephant rides, the mindful traveller will find greater value in experiencing the destinationâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s authentic culture and practices. For those seeking refreshment and

B O L D PA R T N E R S H I P enlightenment under the warmth of Thailand’s radiant sun, G Adventures offers the ideal itinerary. Their Wellness Thailand trip is a relaxed introduction to the yoga disciplines, healing practices, and exemplary cuisine of Thailand. Ranging from Bangkok to Ko Samui over a 9 day adventure, you’ll be energized by the splendour of Thailand’s cities and the warmness of its people. The first 3 days of the trip progress from Bangkok to Chiang Mai, the largest city in Northern Thailand and the UNESCO-recognized home to over 300 Buddhist temples. Take some time to explore the ever-lively streets of Bangkok before venturing to Wat Po: one of Thailand’s oldest temple complexes and home to the statue of the reclining Buddha. There, you’ll get a first hand introduction to Thai massage techniques, as the venerable temple still serves as one of the foremost traditional medical schools in the country. A brief flight to Chiang Mai serves as the prelude to full immersion in the culture of the local Lanna people: you’ll travel outside the city to a Lanna village and join them in making a traditional herbal compress ball. Yogis, fear not: there’s no shortage of riverbanks and waterfalls to meditate under along the way. Days 4 through 6 change the locale to the town of Pai, a rural paradise of hot springs and streets market built along the banks of the Pai River. You’ll immediately feel the serenity of Thailand’s countryside as you

breathe in the clear mountain air atop a hillside resort, soaking your troubles away in the famous springs. A round of Vinyasa yoga will have you ready for a locally inspired cooking class sure to please the palate and satisfy your craving for real Thai food. Use your free time to wander the streets or explore the trails around the town: a trek up the mountain to the White Buddha statue is a time-honoured tradition for every visiting backpacker. You’ll end your journey on days 7 through 9 in Ko Samui, Thailand’s second largest island. Renowned for its resorts, rainforest, and palm beaches, Ko Samui is nothing if not restful. Upon landing, you’ll find your footing with a yoga session before departing for the Fisherman village and taking in the sights and smells of the night market. You’ll be able to enjoy a packed itinerary over the remaining days at your own pace and discretion, with ample opportunities for paddleboarding, swimming, exploring, and vegetarian eating. Leave plenty of time for self-reflection and care: nothing in this world can lift your spirit like meditating on the beach as the sun rises over the Gulf of Thailand. While you may not ever want to leave, you won’t be the same person when you do: the lessons learned in magnificent Thailand are not easily forgotten.

Produced by Moreno & Co. 2018

WHEREVER YOU SEEK WELLNESS IN THE WORLD, G ADVENTURES CAN SHOW YOU THE WAY. READY TO START YOUR OWN JOURNEY TOWARDS ENLIGHTENMENT? WWW.GADVENTURES.COM/TRAVEL-STYLES/WELLNESS/ OR CALL 1.888.800.4100

Mind

MAKEOVER The latest spa treatments target your mood and sense of well-being, just as much as they do your body

– by Diana Spechler –

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eople are taking health and well-being more seriously and are realizing that mind and body are connected,” says Abi Wright, founder of U.K. spa booking agent Spabreaks.com. “As a result, we’re no longer looking for quick fixes to mask symptoms. Now it’s more about management, longterm solutions and looking for the root causes of issues.” These spa treatments are designed to offer clients non-pharmaceutical ways to feel well.

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The Ritz-Carlton Naples | Florida Dreamland If you’re an insomniac, Drift to Sleep at RitzCarlton Naples in Florida, a treatment designed to send you into alpha sleep, might be the only thing that will knock you out. Soak in a milk bath before your massage and meditation session. During the last 30 minutes, you’ll lie in the fetal position, snuggled up with a big duvet and pillow, the dark room lit by candles. Once you’re done, try to stay awake for your therapist’s personalized sleep advice. You might be in the right state for a nightcap at Gumbo Limbo, the hotel’s beachfront restaurant. ritzcarlton.com Luna y Mar Spa at The Resort at Pedregal | Los Cabos Coming up roses The “Calming Moon” treatment at Forbes fivestar Luna y Mar Spa at The Resort at Pedregal in Los Cabos is all about the rose oil, which is, according to some scent experts, a natural antidepressant. Your therapist will both scrub and massage you with it. To enhance the antidepressant effect, she will also cocoon you in rose-oil mud and massage your scalp “to make you feel safe and protected,” in the words

of Luna y Mar spa director Alan Navarette. theresortatpedregal.com Goa Spa at Belize Boutique Resort and Spa | Belize Miracle mud Want a little help regulating your mood? Get slathered with “Mood Mud” at Goa Spa at Belize Boutique Resort and Spa, where all products are natural and all treatments are soundtracked by nature. Therapists fuse a variety of approaches, including Ayurvedic and Bush medicine, and aim to improve your mood. The mud comes straight from the jungle and there are six types to choose from, including “kula,” which destroys negativity. (Pro tip: vacationing in a luxury resort in Belize also destroys negativity.) belizeresortandspa.com Inside Out Mobile Spa | Los Angeles Belly bliss Next time your stomach is in knots, book an abdominal massage with Los Angelesbased Inside Out Mobile Spa. Owner Amanda Deming or one of her five therapists will come to where you’re staying and knead that anxiety right out of you. “We hold a lot of our emotions in our abdominal region,” Deming

says. “It can be a vulnerable part of the body. Waste gets stuck there—physical waste, energetic waste. The best thing you can do when your stomach is upset is rub your belly.” Her approach incorporates not just massage, but tuning forks, essential oils and breathing exercises. She even has a highly intricate method for calming her ticklish clients. insideoutmobilespa.com Vermont Salt Cave Spa & Halotherapy Center | Vermont Cave dwelling Seasonal Affective Disorder is pretty brutal if you live somewhere with long winters. Enter Vermont Salt Cave Spa & Halotherapy Center, where you can beat the winter blues by lying down for 45 minutes in a salt cave and listening to relaxing music. “Our 52 salt lamps emit negative ions,” says spa owner Sarita Khan. “That counteracts the positive ions you get from your cell phone and computer, and leaves you energized.” She tells the story of a group from an assisted-living home visiting the spa during mud season, annoyed with the mud outside, the grey weather and life in general. After their 45 minutes in the cave, they were laughing and flirting with one another, “ready to rock and roll.” vtsaltcaves.com BOLD

NAPA VALLEY | CALIFORNIA

MIND + BODY + SOUL WELLNESS ESCAPES

hether you’re looking to purify body and mind or just for the softest skin of your life, our editors have compiled a list of the most flight-worthy treatments across the globe.

THE CHATWAL | NEW YORK, NEW YORK

The Chatwal Hotel in New York’s historic Theatre District hides an oasis of respite amongst its bright lights and massive billboards. The Red Door Spa by Elizabeth Arden is 730 square metres of pure bliss. Mani-pedis, massages, and aromatherapy-guided facials are all on the menu at this 5th Avenue gem, which features three treatment rooms, a jacuzzi plunge pool and even eucalyptus steam rooms. Plus, The Red Door is tucked underneath the hotel’s lobby like a wellness bank vault. Ambient noise is surprisingly minimal, offering peace from the bustle of the city that never sleeps. HIGHLIGHT: The Chatwal’s exclusive collaboration with yoga and spiritual guru Eddie Stern provides a unique wellness offering steeped in Pranayama teachings. Your in-room IPad is your ticket to the “Pause & Take a Breath” app, which features nine 12-minute yoga lessons with music by Moby, included free during any stay. For something more personal, the Chatwal can also coordinate one-on-one private class appointments with Eddie or one of his expert instructors. thechatwalny.com 72

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Napa Valley is known for more than just wine: California’s vineyard haven is also one of America’s top spa destinations. The valley’s abundant nature lends itself perfectly to a broad portfolio of organic wellness treatments. Crystals that enhance massage therapy and superfoods such as monk fruit and homemade probiotic granola are sourced right from Napa’s green hills, with sleepinducing signature snacks like dried cherries cementing the region’s place on the forefront of forward-thinking health and wellness trends. HIGHLIGHT: Now more accessible than ever, CBD is a trending ingredient in spa treatments, prized for its calming and moodenhancing effects. The Solage Calistoga Resort and Spa is now offering Healthy Lotus CBD oil in its massages, facials, and body scrubs, while Mount View Hotel & Spa features a sound healing therapy paired with CBD-infused wraps. For a CBD massage, travellers will want to visit Spa Terra at The Meritage Resort. Aubergeresorts. com; meritagecollection.com/meritageresort/spa

THE OAK BAY BEACH HOTEL | VICTORIA, B.C.

The shores of the Pacific Ocean near Victoria, British Columbia, hold the Oak Bay Beach Hotel, a luxury boutique property like no other. Overlooking the Juan de Fuca Strait, the property offers breathtaking views of both sea and mountain. A fixture on the coastline for over 90 years, the Oak Bay Beach Hotel has transcended its origins as an English manor and established itself as a luxury landmark in the province. The renovated property still pays homage to classical architecture but offers the best in modern comfort in all of its 100 oceanfront hotel suites. HIGHLIGHT: The full-service spa offers heated mineral baths and a host of incredible treatments. For those looking to experience the healing power of water, the Ocean Elements Body Ritual is a can’tmiss. This empowering treatment utilizes the remarkable healing benefits of pacific seaweed, marine clay, and glacial water. Fused and applied through a unique layering and massage technique, these natural ingredients help to reduce muscle tension, improve circulation and fight inflammation. Perhaps most importantly, they’ll also leave you feeling deeply relaxed and rejuvenated. oakbaybeachhotel.com

UXUA CASA HOTEL AND SPA | TRANCOSO, BRAZIL

The remote fisherman’s village of Trancoso, Brazil has a luxurious secret: the UXUA’s collection of authentic casas that date back hundreds of years to the village’s founding. The Almescar Spa is similarly historic, drawing upon centuries of indigenous heritage and healing knowledge. All products used at the spa are made from the techniques of the Pataxo Indians, including the endemic almescar tree-sap from which the spa takes its name. The building itself reflects the humble respect for the region’s traditions: it is wholly constructed by native craftspeople from locally reclaimed wood. HIGHLIGHT: A top-to-bottom refresh of the Almescar Spa has made it more alluring than ever before. Almescar oil facials and massages are among the many highlights and the Bahian Hot Stone Massage leaves a warm, lasting impression. The facilities are impressively varied: three treatment rooms, a yoga studio and a fitness centre provides plenty of wellness variety on the Brazillian coast. uxua.com

HOTEL CHRISTOPHER | ST. BARTS, FRENCH WEST INDIES

Located above the rocky shoreline of the popular neighbourhood of Pointe Milou, the five-star Hotel Christopher is kissed by the Caribbean sun and caressed by the gentle winds of the azure ocean. The recently renovated Sisley Spa features five treatment rooms overlooking the waves, and offers Phyto-Aromatic treatments to provide deeply restorative care. The outdoor day beds on the large teak terrace are always in demand, but especially so during sunset hours. HIGHLIGHT: The spa’s new lomilomi massage mimics the sounds and movements of the waves, combining light stretching, kneading and acupressure to leave you feeling as free and fluid as the waters of the ocean. hotelchristopher.com

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BELMOND MAROMA RESORT & SPA | MEXICO

GOLDENEYE | ORACABESSA, JAMAICA

Jamaica’s GoldenEye isn’t your ordinary hotel. This collection of charming cottages and beachside villas invites guests to experience the full diversity of Jamaica’s landscape, from private beaches to tropical gardens. The property’s Lagoon Cottages are in a league of their own, providing classic colonial comfort and a complimentary kayak right on the tranquil waters. The FieldSpa at GoldenEye sits at the edge of this blue lagoon, allowing guests to swim or paddle to their spa appointment at their leisure. HIGHLIGHT: The culmination of months of development, the new FieldSpa brings traditional Jamaican recipes to a floating spa hut right on the water. A new hammam and yoga deck are just the tip of the wellness iceberg here: coffee wraps, rum scrubs and sea salt reflexology round out an impressively deep service. The spa also provides elixirs, juices, and healthy bites made from fresh ingredients sourced atPantrepant, the hotel’s farm. For true peace and quiet, head over to the adjacent spa cove: a quiet crescent of sand perfectly placed between the lagoon and jungle. goldeneye.com

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Set between 200 acres of lush jungle and idyllic Caribbean beachfront on the Riviera Maya, the Belmond Maroma Resort & Spa is a tropical fairy tale of breezy hammocks and oceanside suites. The property offers a wide variety of spa treatments and wellness programming inspired by Mayan tradition and ancient botanicals, purifying body and soul with Temazcal ceremonies. Guests of the Kinan Spa can indulge in honey-based spa treatments courtesy of the on-site apiary or embrace lavish romanticism with a couple’s massage in warm chocolate. HIGHLIGHT: Sporty and active travellers should seek out Franco Livi, resident tennis instructor at the Belmond Maroma. A former trainer to the greats including Novak Djokovic, Rafael Nadal and Andy Murray, Livi has the pedigree to take your game to the next level. The “Perfect Match” package is custom-built by Livi and incorporates cardio conditioning, game strategy and racket technique. Racket wizards can participate in fast-paced “beat the pro” matches, but even beginners will find the 30-minute cardio sessions intensely rewarding. Starting at $650 per night for two people, the package includes daily 60-minute private tennis lessons followed by 50-minute muscle-release treatments at the Kinan Spa. belmond.com

VICEROY RIVIERA MAYA | MEXICO

Tradition and Mayan mysticism have a home at the Viceroy Riviera Maya. The hotel’s resident shaman oversees the Jardin Pak’al: a garden in which he grows herbs used to treat guests at the Wayak Spa. The K’óben (Mayan herb kitchen) is the venue for one-on-one consultations, from which the shaman will divine and determine individual preferences and needs to create a personalized experience. The signature treatment is undoubtedly the Hunan-Kab, an aromatic massage incorporating honey harvested on-property. The honey of the Melipona Bee has long been prized by the locals for its medicinal applications. The honey is traditionally applied using herb compresses soaked in a special tea as a primer for a massage next to a waterfall. HIGHLIGHT: Each Monday, guests are invited to participate in a compelling Mayan walk. Guided meditation and a shamanistic blessing in the garden are the prelude to an immersive walk through the pool and across the beach, instilling a reverence for the crystal waters of the Riviera. viceroyhotelsandresorts.com/riviera-maya

LA RÉSERVE RAMATUELLE | RAMATUELLE, FRANCE

Nestled within a Mediterranean jardin only six miles from St. Tropez, La Réserve Ramatuelle is the ideal escape for travellers looking for R&R with a French flair. In partnership with Professor Jacques Proust’s Nescens brand, this stunning seaside retreat offers a suite of spa services that draw upon the latest developments in anti-aging science. Each one of the Nescens programs includes an initial evaluation with the spa’s team of medical professionals during which time the guest’s physical fitness, medical history, and diet are evaluated. The resulting treatment itinerary is then handcrafted for your individualized needs and care, drawing upon diverse disciplines like Osteopathy and Hydrotherapy, among others. HIGHLIGHT: The hotel’s “Dream Day” package is an indulgent journey to true relaxation. Over nearly two hours, you’ll soak in the hotel’s hammam, enjoy a personalized balneotherapy session and body scrub, and say goodbye to the signs of stress with a “Betteraging” body massage. The included lunch at the hotel’s La Voile restaurant is a mouthwatering bonus. lareserve-ramatuelle.com

ROYAL MANSOUR | MARRAKECH, MOROCCO

Ornate, opulent and distinctive, the Royal Mansour hotel is a Morrocan palatial fantasy made hyperluxury reality. Its three-storey spa, crafted in the image of an elaborate white birdcage, is every bit as magnificent as the rest of the property. The spa’s design evokes the visual profile of the Moucharabieh: the quintessentially Arabic architectural element best described as a window enclosed in carved wood latticework. The Spa at Royal Mansour deserves special recognition for its indoor pool, which utilizes vaulted glass ceilings to set the light of the desert sun dancing across the water. A hammam (a traditional public bath) waits in stoic splendour, ready to soothe and delight you at a nexus of welcoming ivory passageways and softly glowing lanterns. HIGHLIGHT: Royal Mansour’s famous Hammam Treatments are worth trekking through the desert for. Traditional technique meets personalized care in a wondrous regimen of ceremonial massage, steam exfoliation and floral water immersion. Each ingredient and element in the Hammam treatment is locally sourced from Morocco’s rich environment, with purifying clay collected from the Atlas Mountains and roses gathered from the Kalaat Megouana valley. In concert with fragrant saffron, the “gourmet glow” wrap is guaranteed to leave your skin with a rejuvenated glow. royalmansour.com

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B O L D PA R T N E R S H I P

BEYOND THE BEACH IN FINDING WELLNESS ON THE HORIZON OF THE CARIBBEAN’S MOST IDYLLIC ISLAND Canadians who hide from the winter there each year, Barbados has recently developed a reputation for excellence in a whole new arena. In presenting an inviting array of natural adventures and opulent spas, the spirited people of Barbados are affirming their dreamy island as a premier Wellness vacation. In many ways, this evolution of the destination is a natural fit: the serene locales of the island seem almost tailor-made to inspire and rejuvenate. Embracing a new class of travellers seeking a transformative experience for both body and soul, Barbados has declared 2019 the “Year of Wellness and Soft Adventure”, rolling out additional events and activities aimed at both entertaining and enlightening. Much more than just a beautiful beach, Barbados is a paradise with a purpose: to refresh the spirit and spur the kind of selfdiscovery that stays with you long after your vacation ends.

PAMPERED UNDER THE PALMS

The cornerstone of any great wellness experience is a great spa experience: nothing banishes stress and strain quite like a hot stone massage and herbal soak. With dozens of luxurious spa resorts ready to indulge your every decadent desire, it’s easy to forget your troubles in the steamy comfort of a beachadjacent sauna. The spas of Barbados vary in size and service, encompassing everything from modest facilities on the beach to stateof-the-art forest retreats. You can expect to be spoiled with just about every treatment under the sun: manicures, pedicures, facials, and massages are just the tip of an invigorating iceberg that also includes specialist treatments like resurfacing, deep cleansing, and traditional body therapy. Those in search of premium pampering should seek out Golden Touch Spa. Located within the Golden Sands Hotel on Barbados’

Produced by Moreno & Co. 2019

The world-famous beaches of Barbados defy description. The ivory dunes and crystal waters of Silver Sands possess an almost otherworldly beauty; the caress of their warm Caribbean breeze lulling sunbathers and windsurfers alike into a state of profound relaxation under the magnificent sunset. Of course, Barbados is beloved by travellers for much more than just its beaches: its fascinating history, scenic vistas and natural reserves, and upscale accommodations distinguish the island as the culinary, adventure, and nightlife capital of the Caribbean. The expansive, crystalline depths of Harrison’s Cave contrast the colonial flair of UNESCO World Heritage sites like Bridgetown, showcasing the diverse attractions that confirm Barbados’ place on the top of many bucket lists. While the traditional virtues of the island are perhaps well-known to the thousands of

B O L D PA R T N E R S H I P

southern shore, Golden Touch sets a high standard for care. Their unique exfoliating scrub cleanses the body and pleases the senses with extracts of vanilla and lavender, easing guests into a customized Deep Tissue massage. If you’re seeking something purely natural yet thoroughly relaxing, you’ll want to visit the stunning Sandbox Tree Spa. Their signature Bamford treatment uses botanical products and draws from disciplines like shiatsu, Indian Head Massage, and yogic breathing to create a nourishing experience tailored to each guest’s needs.

A HOLISTIC HERITAGE While exposure to the unspoilt tropical air and golden sunshine of Barbados could probably be considered a form of therapy in its own right, the various natural wellness centres on the island ensure that the entirety of the holistic treatment spectrum is well-represented. Fusing the traditional healing practices of the Caribbean’s indigenous populations with the best of acupuncture, reflexology, and reiki, these wellness centres use natural therapies to promote balance and growth. Travellers looking to get in tune with their spiritual self while alleviating discomforts as a result of physical injury or emotional distress may forge just such a connection at the Natural Energy Centre in Bridgetown, which offers an inspiring mix of massage treatments and chakra-based energy healing. The Schotherapy Internationalé Day Spa blends custom massages and body detox with the calming influence of the island’s verdant nature, treating guests on a sun-kissed terrace in the midst of a lush garden.

STRETCHING IN THE SUN Yoga and the beach go together like rum and punch. While Barbados has no shortage of either combination, the destination is firmly focused on the former in 2019, leveraging its spectacular scenery to help visiting yogi achieve true bliss. Yoga and guided meditation classes are ubiquitous on the island, with almost every major resort accommodating your mindfulness needs with an onsite studio. Barbados is also rich in independent studios like Sunshine Kula Yoga Studio and Santosha yoga, which specialize in distinct traditions like Anusara and stabilityfocused paddleboard yoga. If you prefer to find peace in solitude, grab your mat and head to the beach of your choosing: the rising sun and gentle sea winds are a powerful catalyst for reaching new levels of zen. If you’re sufficiently limbered up, don’t miss the chance for an unforgettable adventure. Barbados’ catalog of “Soft Adventure” includes exhilarating activities like sea kayaking, mountain biking, and cross-island horseback rides. While wellness means different things to different people, traversing the rolling green hills of the island on the back of a venerable equine companion ranks pretty highly on the list of experiences guaranteed to leave you permanently in awe of nature’s majesty.

THE YEAR OF WELLNESS IS IN FULL SWING, PROMISING A TRANSFORMATIVE VACATION EXPERIENCE LIKE NO OTHER. To learn more about discovering Barbados (and yourself), head to

www.visitbarbados.org

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THE

HALO EFFECT

INNOVAT IVE LASER T ECHNOLOGY IS A GAME CHANGER FOR ANT I-AGING PREVENT ION AND TOTAL SKIN REJUVENAT ION

s we age, we start to notice more skin imperfections, from sun damage and uneven tone to enlarged pores and fine lines. But modern beauty isn’t about trying to look like Barbie; it’s about making our best assets glow again. “It’s all about prevention and regenerative health when it comes to modern beauty,” says Dr. Cody Hemsworth, medical director of Skin Worthy, a boutique aesthetic dermatology clinic specializing in non-surgical procedures. “Why chase lines with filler when you can prevent them from happening in the first place? Combining laser resurfacing with growth factors has changed the way our skin is aging.” Whether looking to reduce the effects of sun damage or acne scars, or help dull, aging skin get its glow back, there are a range of options which target specific skin conditions. Most are designed to stimulate collagen production, which slows as we age. Along with laser, other non-surgical skin rejuvenating treatments range from the vampire facials (which uses platelets from your own blood to stimulate cell turnover) to microneedling (which involves puncturing the top layer of skin to stimulate collagen production). While effective, they do require several treatments to achieve the best results. Typically, the more treatments required, the more downtime required. But a new, innovative technology, the HALO laser, is changing the game, doing what other treatments can do, but in a single session. “Patients quickly see great improvement as skin looks younger, brighter and overall more refreshed due to new collagen and elastin production in the deep dermis, coupled with precise resurfacing,” says Hemsworth. “HALO results in safe, consistent treatments and faster healing times, with typically only three days of social downtime,” he says. “It’s like getting three Fraxel laser treatments at once, with half the downtime. It’s a game changer for anti-aging prevention and total skin rejuvenation.” HALO effectively treats wrinkles, fine lines, sun damage, textural issues and scars, and improves the appearance of enlarged pores. It also treats melasma, one of the most stubborn skin conditions that has, until now, been difficult to treat. As the world’s first hybrid fractional laser, HALO combines deeper dermal rejuvenation with epidermal renewal by delivering pulses of

ablative and non-ablative energy to the skin. The ablative portion selectively resurfaces skin with tiny precise injuries, while the non-ablative portion delivers energy deep into the tissue to generate repair without additional trauma to the outer layers of skin. By targeting specific vessels and deep dermal pigment while stimulating collagen production, HALO can dramatically improve dull, damaged or aging skin much faster than traditional laser resurfacing procedures. Treatments are safe for most people and most skin types; the device can be angled to target different parts of the body, including the face, chest area, forearms and hands. “Our patients see beautiful results in one to two treatments, while older, non-hybrid technology often requires five to six treatments to demonstrate similar texture and pigment changes delivered from HALO. The treatment is extremely comfortable, only a topical anesthetic is needed, and patients can apply makeup within 24 hours of the procedure,” says Hemsworth. When HALO is combined with Platelet Rich Plasma and Broad Band Light (BBL) therapy, patients often only need one corrective treatment. Patients see the greatest pigmentary improvement in the first two to three weeks, followed by dermal regeneration that continues to show improvements for months. For maintenance, Hemsworth suggests three BBL treatments and one HALO treatment annually. “Facials are nice for relaxation, but for real, lasting beauty the industry is turning to medical aesthetics. New technologies like HALO reveal Hollywood skin without the downtime or discomfort of other procedures. Patients are also more educated about skin and beauty, and they want real results,” says nurse injector Barbara Hemsworth, RN, bachelor of science in nursing and also wife and business partner of Hemsworth. The two started Skin Worthy in 2016, which has since grown into a full non-surgical aesthetic medicine clinic, staffed with a multidisciplinary team. The clinic focuses on combining art and science to achieve unparalleled results for patients through dermal fillers, wrinkle relaxers, micro-needling, laser therapies, chemical peels and new technologies such as HALO. Skin Worthy takes a holistic approach to each patient’s individual needs, starting with a comprehensive consultation. The clinic focuses strongly on education of the patient and providing evidence-based solutions for the best aesthetic results. All consultations are complimentary and new patients are welcome.

Exclusive to BOLD readers, receive 10% off any service for first-time patients (some limitations apply).

For more info visit skinworthy.ca or book your consultation at bookings@skinworthy.ca (647) 350-7546

HONOURING YOUR NAT URAL BEAUT Y

OUR APPROACH

OUR T EAM

T HE DIF F ERENC E

Our bodies are more that what we see on the outside. We value individuality and provide a customized approach through in-depth consultations and facial analysis, offering unique education and treatment combination.

Skin Worthy is led by Dr.Cody Hemsworth, specializing in aesthetic dermatology, along with his wife Barbara Hemsworth, RN and long time aesthetic nurse injector. Both maintain the highest credentials through extensive learning session held throughout the world.

Skin Worthy is a boutique clinic with customized service that values its patients. We believe in forming relationships and going the extra mile, leaving you with an unforgettable experience.

www.skinworthy.ca

MAKING T HE EXC EPT ION T HE STANDARD Let us show you what sets us apart through a complimentary consultation with one of our skilled professionals. We welcome you to come in, relax and discuss your aesthetic goals in our comfortable space easily accessed just west of downtown Toronto.

Bookings: bookings@skinworthy.ca

(647) 350-7546 IG/FB: skinworthy.ca 722 The Queensway, Etobicoke ON M8Y1L3 10% any service for first time patients (offer exclusive to BOLD readers and subject to limitations)

TRAVEL INTEL Our tips and tricks to navigating the world

THE GOOD, BAD AND THE TASTY BY LIZ FLEMING

Just for fun

Let’s start with your worst choice: anything you’ve never eaten before. Gastronomic adventures are wonderful, but not immediately before a flight. Unfamiliar spice combinations and never-before-ingested foods can cause you to feel less than fabulous.

Other things to avoid?

Raw seafood (save the sushi and poke bowls for when you’ve landed) and any salty foods. Flying causes dehydration, so you don’t need to add salt to that mix. Skip sugary candy and pop as well. Though they may give a quick energy boost, you’ll have the matching crash about an hour later.

Best choices?

Think protein to keep your energy levels stable and water to hydrate you in preparation for the flight. For example, choose a chicken salad; you’ll get loads of protein and the vegetables will be filled with water. Ask for the dressing on the side, in case it proves to be sugary or salty. If your sweet tooth is demanding attention, choose a banana, some full-fat yogurt or an orange, apple or fruit salad. If you’re simultaneously hungry and thirsty, a smoothie that combines the yogurt and fruit might be a great choice.

Morning flight?

Have a hearty bowl of oatmeal to up your fibre and potassium intake. The important thing is to choose good quality proteins like chicken, meat, fish, nuts or hummus and add seeds, grains, fruits and vegetables to send you on your way feeling satisfied.

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MAKING YOUR BODY FLIGHT-READY Eating right isn’t the only trick to staying healthy on long flights. Here are a few other preventative measures smart travellers take.

• Drink lots of water. Hydrate, hydrate, hydrate to make up for the dehydrating effects of flight. • Use your air vent to ensure that the air around you is circulating freely. You’ll be more comfortable if you aren’t overheated and the air you’re breathing is as fresh as possible. • Before you fly, check to make sure all of your vaccinations are up to date. • Use handy wipes or alcohol sanitizers to clean your tray table and arm rests. • Avoid touching surfaces. Use hand cleanser over the course of the flight. • Have a good night’s sleep before you fly. • To prevent pulmonary thrombosis, the pooling of blood that can lead to dangerous clots, keep moving. Every hour or two, take a stroll up and down the aisle.

Illustration by Laura García

ou have a couple of hours before you board—lots of time to enjoy a leisurely meal in the airport. Given that you’re about to spend several hours in a confined space with a plethora of other passengers and restricted access to a tiny-at-best bathroom, it’s wise to give some thought to what you eat.

ADVICE FOR THE SPA VIRGIN Will your next vacation include a bit of spa time? Will this massage be a new experience for you? Will this facial be your first? Wondering what to expect? The success of your spa visit lies in the preparation.

Start by showering and handling any personal grooming you’ve been meaning to get to; during a massage, you’ll have very few secrets from your therapist. On that note, if you’re planning to leave your undies on during the treatment, make sure they’re ones you won’t be shy to show.

BOLD QUERY I REALLY HATE TURBULENCE! HOW CAN I HAVE THE SMOOTHEST POSSIBLE FLIGHT? Choose a seat directly over the wings and avoid the tail area, which is more susceptible to the winds. Taking half a Gravol tablet can help to settle your stomach as will a can of ginger ale when the cart comes around. Selecting an aisle seat will give you a quick exit in case you still feel ill.

Be sure to eat a light meal before arriving at the spa. Being hungry or, on the other hand, overstuffed can spoil your sense of relaxation.

CANADIANA KNOW-IT-ALL

Think you know all there is to know about our true north, strong and free? Here are five fun facts about our homeland to drop into the conversation on your next trip abroad.

Did you know that on February 3, 1947, the city of Snag, Yukon, hit a low of -63 Celsius? That’s the same temperature as the surface of Mars.

Don’t worry about bringing sandals or a robe; they’re usually provided. But if your hair is long, pop a hair elastic into your bag. Also, bring a bathing suit in a plastic bag. Many spas have saunas, steam rooms, Jacuzzi tubs and swimming pools for guests to use before and after their treatments; often they’re co-ed. The plastic bag will come in handy when you need to take your wet bathing suit back to your room. Don’t forget to bring a brush and any cosmetics you might need to do a touch up after your treatment. You’ll want to look as great as you’ll feel.

Canada has more surface area covered by lakes than any other country in the world, with 563 of them larger than 100 square miles. In fact, the Great Lakes have 18 percent of all the fresh water in the whole world.

The only remaining walled city in North America is Canada’s Quebec City. With fortifications built first by the French and then the English between the 17th and 19th centuries, Quebec City is a UNESCO World Heritage site and one of the most beautiful cities in the Americas.

Checking in and arriving are much more streamlined processes if you’re not checking a bag. And travelling light can also save you money. Here are our top tips for travelling with carry-on only.

Escaping to the sunny south? You won’t be able to pack a full-size bottle of sunblock and sample sizes won’t have enough to protect you for your whole stay. What’s the solution? Buy it when you get there. This goes for other toiletries, too.

Let’s not forget that Canada has more coastline than any other country. After all, we’re bordered by three oceans: the Atlantic, the Pacific and the Arctic. Want the figures? The world has a total of 356,000 kilometres of oceanfront area and 202,080 kilometres of that is in Canada. Canada has the globe’s most northerly settlement, Alert, Nunavut, which is located on the northern tip of Ellesmere Island. When you’re feeling sorry for yourself on a cold January morning, think of the Alertians who, in the first month of each year, enjoy average temperatures of -32.19 Celsius.

CAN I JUST CARRY-ON?

WHERE EATING CHOCOLATE IS PATRIOTIC

Now might be the right time to book a flight to Ghana, particularly if you’re a chocolate lover. The country’s Minister of Tourism is encouraging all citizens and tourists to consume at least one bar of chocolate per day and to sip hot chocolate regularly, as a means of celebrating and supporting Ghana’s important cacao industry.

Heading to a cooler climate? Tuck your bulkiest gear into a vacuum packing bag, then suck out the air and reduce the size of your load. Wear your heavy boots and tuck your mittens and scarf into the pockets of your jacket, which you can then use as a pillow on the plane. Your heavy scarf or pashmina can serve as a blanket to ward off cool drafts in flight.

Think about outfits, not about items. Pack a look for each day or event of your stay that reuses key items. Roll, rather than fold, your clothes. If you plan on shopping at your destination, consider packing items you’ll be happy to leave behind.

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SPANNING CENTURIES

Bastei Bridge, Saxony, Germany

here’s not much left of Neurathen Castle, but what there is is spectacular. Though the castle in the spa town of Rathen, Germany, was destroyed eons ago, its bridge was rebuilt in stone in the mid-1800s and that bridge has, over the last 200 years, become an attraction itself. Though it doesn’t go anywhere, the Bastei Bridge provides what is probably one of Europe’s most stunning panoramas. Spanning giant sandstone rock towers on the banks of the Elbe River, the bridge provides a fairy-tale view of the formation, the Elbe, Lilienstein mountain, Koenigstein fortress and of Saxon Switzerland National Park. Sorry—Switzerland? Yes, here on the border of the Czech Republic, about an hour from Dresden and more than 700 kilometres from

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the “real” Switzerland, is 93 square kilometres of parkland with more than 700 climbable summits. The geographically puzzling name comes from two Swiss painters, Anton Graff (a friend of the writer Johann Wolfgang von Goethe) and Adrian Zingg, who spent time here in the late 1700s and early 1800s and so named the place because it reminded them of their homeland. Though Bastei Bridge is just 76.5 metres long (and 200 metres high), it can be considered part of the the 400 kilometres of hiking trails in the park. The whole park, including access to the bridge, is free. Though it’s an easy day trip from Dresden, nearby Berghotel provides four-star accomodations at the heart of all this beauty. saechsische-schweiz-de; berghotel-bastei-de—THE EDITORS

Photo by Frank Richter, courtesy Tourismusverband Sächsische Schweiz e.V.

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BOLD Issue #51 Hidden Europe

Articles inside

Thailand: No Ennui in Ko Samui

Pleasure Principles

Formidable Firenze

You Wanted to Ride La Bicicletta? Well, Then, Pedala!

Ciao, Roma!

King of the Castle

A Bigger Splash

Cottage Life