Fort Smith, Arkansas, was once a tiny end-of-civilization outpost of the U.S. Army. It was the termination of one of the black marks on American history—the Trail of Tears—and home to bordellos, muddy streets, and stern frontier justice. Today, it sports a tearoom, concerts, a world-class public art display, and restaurants where a dinner for two of char crusted lamb loin with a nice French white wine from the Côte de Beaune can lighten your AmEx of $300.
It’s tempting to say that after 200 years Fort Smith has finally hit its stride. But locals who’ve been here through an economic cycle or two, and thus have a sense of perspective, will tell you something else—that, in fact, Fort Smith has only just burst from the starting gate. Optimism runs high and pride runs strong here along the meandering banks of the Arkansas River.