PRESS REVIEW
BOUVET-LADUBAY 2013
SUMMARY Le Guide Hachette des Vins…………..…………………………….. 2014
4
Gilbert & Gaillard…..........................................…...…………………. 2014
5
Le Guide Bettane & Desseauve des Vins de France…….....
7
2014
The Financial Express…………………………………………………. January 12th
9
The Wall Street Journal………………………………………………. December 17th
10
Deccan Chronicle India……………………………………………….
11
December
Indian Wine Academy………………………………………………… December 17th
10
Live Mint & Wall Street Journal…………………………………… December 14th
12
Indian Express Indulge…………………………………………….…. December 13th
15
Indian Restaurant Spy…………………………………….…….…….. December 12th
17
Revue Vinicole Internationale………………………………….….. December
18
Free Times……………………………………………………...…………. December 11th
20
The Daily Telegraph…………..……………………………………….
November 23rd
21
TASTED JOURNAL 100% BLIND………………………………….
November
22
TOP 100 Best Buys by Wine Enthusiast……………………….
November
23
Meiningers Weinwelt….………………………………………………
November
24
Gault & Millau Magazine.…………………………………………….
November
25
Decanter World Wine Awards.……………………………………. 2013
34
Guide Dussert-Gerber des Vins 2014…………………………..
August 26th
35
Restaurants and Food in Cork..……………………………………
August 25th
37
Jameson Fink……………………..………………………………………. August 23rd
40
Handelsblatt…………………………………………………..…………..
43
August 18th
Die Zeit……………………………...………………………………………. August 8th
47
Wine Spectator…………..………………………………………………
50
May 16th
TARA………………………….……………………………………………… May
51
TASTED JOURNAL 100% BLIND………………………………….
April
52
La Revue du Vin de France……………………….…………………
April
53
Falstaff………………………..……………………………………………… February
54
Good Housekeeping………….………………………………………… February
55
Hugh Johnson’s Pocket Wine Book….…………………………… 2013
56
Oz Clarke Pocket Wine Book……………………………………….. 2013
57
Guide Revel des Champagnes et des Autres Bulles...........
58
2013
HACHETTE 2014
France
2014
Vos notes Gilbert & Gaillard 2014 Vos résultats de dégustation en Français Maison : Bouvet Ladubay Contact : Monsieur Eric Laplace N° Idx : 895
Note : 85/100 Bouvet Brut rosé Vin effervescent - Crémant de Loire Jolie robe rose saumoné. Nez engageant aux arômes de fruits rouges. On retrouve cette tonalité fruitée discrète dans une bouche à l'attaque souple, assez chaleureuse, ample. Un crémant franc qui gagnera à être bu bien frais.
Note : 90/100 Bouvet-Ladubay Brut rosé Taille Princesse de Gérard Depardieu - 2010 Vin effervescent - Saumur Robe rose orangé. Le nez, d'abord fruité, développe des tonalités boisées, grillées de belle facture. En bouche on apprécie son volume, son attaque fondue, le passage bien conduit des saveurs fruitées aux fragrances boisées. Un exercice de style réussi.
Note : 90/100 Bouvet Brut Trésor - 2009 Vin effervescent - Saumur Robe jaune clair. Nez délicat s'ouvrant sur des notes citronnées, crémeuses puis dévoilant son caractère floral et minéral subtilement grillé. Belle attaque fondue, à la bulle fine, évolution précise, fraîche, très minérale. Très beau saumur.
Edition du 18/07/2013 09:59
Page 1/2
Note : 87/100 Bouvet Brut Saphir - 2010 Vin effervescent - Saumur Robe jaune clair lumineuse. Nez net et typé associant notes florales, fruits à chair blanche, ananas vert, notes minérales. Attaque charnue, sur le fruit, évolution nerveuse aux accents minéraux. Un saumur de belle facture parfait pour l'apéritif.
Edition du 18/07/2013 09:59
Page 2/2
Guide Bettane & Desseauve
France
2014
Guide Bettane & Desseauve
France
2014
India
January 12th, 2014
USA
December 17th, 2013
India
December 2013
India
December 17th, 2013
India
December 14th, 2013
India
December 13th, 2013
India
December 12th, 2013
France
December 2013
USA
December 11th, 2013
Fermentation is an interesting chemical process that turns grape juice into wonderful wines. But when you take a blend of still wines, add a little sugar and yeast, and cap it off with a crown cap, it becomes truly magical. This is the formula for producing world-class sparkling wine, and the recipe for Champagne, the world’s most popular wine. The secondary fermentation — which takes place in the very bottle you are drinking from — is what produces the pleasing bubbles and just enough added alcohol to complete the process. The process was an accidental discovery: In the cold cellars of France, fermentation would stop when the temperature dropped too low; then, in the spring, after the wines were bottled, the yeast would go back to work, infusing the wine with lovely sparkling bubbles. The Champagne region doesn’t own the rights to bubbly, though. It is produced worldwide, with locally available grapes, white and red, and a lot of quality sparkling comes from the U.S. and other countries. This is our annual look at the local offerings in the sparkling aisle. We bagged up 17 sparklers and tasted them blind, along with appropriate appetizers, and sipped and scored them to help you pick a solid candidate for your holiday festivities or maybe Christmas dinner. Among the food at our tasting: smoked salmon, chopped liver pâté, an assortment of sushi, prosciutto biscuits, Apalachicola oysters on the half shell, and a homemade shrimp dip. A raspberrychocolate mousse helped finish the evening, along with the rosés… The Bouvet Rosé was the top pink…
UK
November 23rd, 2013
FRANCE
November 2013
USA
November 2013
Germany
November 2013
WEINGUIDE SCHAUMWEINE INTERNATIONAL
« Un des pionniers des vins effervescents passés en barriques avec maintenant des notes de bois discrètes et délicates, le fruit est de plus en plus présent, un mousseux avec des contours bien définis et maitrisés. »
« Construit de façon plus ferme que Depardieu, complexité du fruit avec une bonne structure, bois délicat.»
« Ferme, droit et rafraichissant, fruits agrumes, aromes de biscuits levurés»
« Puissant, structure bien définie, saveurs fruitées et végétales»
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Translation of the article in DIE ZEIT (by Gero Von Randow) August 8th, 2013
Business: Movers and shakers: Patrice Monmousseau? The Master of Riddling Sparkling wine from France? The man at the helm of Bouvet-Ladubay has been protecting his grandfather’s legacy for 42 years – most recently with help from East India BY GERO VON RANDOW Is globalization really the steamroller that mows down all regional cultures? Does, to quote Karl Marx and Friedrich Engels, “no other tie that binds one human to another human being remains than the naked interest in non-emotional cash payment?” One example that allows us to beg to differ is the story of Patrice Monmousseau, the head of Bouvet-Ladubay. The company, which is headquartered in Saumur, a small town on the Loire River, is now owned by East Indian multi-millionaire Vijay Mallya. Monmousseau refers to Mallya only by calling him “my Indian.” The company is Saumur makes sparkling wine, which has not been allowed to refer to itself as champagne since 1927. Bouvet-Ladubay is the most prominent producer of this product in town. “We export to some 40 countries,” observes Monmousseau. “Our two largest markets are Germany and France, where we sell 1.5 million bottles a year each.” And India? “China and India have not yet reached this kind of market saturation, as the local populations drink very little bubbly.” Monmousseau’s favorite term to use when he talks about his product is bulles, which means bubbles in English and he sometimes refers to it as bubbly, like the British would. The company uses the traditional method to make its bubbly, i.e. it is allowed to reach perfection in the bottle, just like champagne. The only difference is that Monmousseau produces the base wines primarily from regionally typical grapes, such as the Chenin Blanc and the Cabernet Franc. “My grandfather still used to transport barrels of base wine from the Loire to the Champagne, which was destined to become champagne,” reports Monmousseau. “Today all of that has been separated. Fifteen years ago, they even imposed a law that prohibits labeling our wine “methode champanois.” But actually, that was a blessing for us. After all, now people found out that what we do here is different – something all our own.” In fact, many of his best products are not only equivalent to champagne, but have their own special regional characteristics and they are significantly less expensive. The company, which was established by Etienne Bouvet in 1851, had previously reached its current production volumes – back in the belle epoch. However, the downturn began during World War I and in 1932 the company was on the auction block. “My grandfather, who owned a winery in the Touraine Region, won the auction,” explains Monmousseau “to irk a rival company.” The new company was under his son’s management and attained moderate success. The grandson, on the other hand – little Patrice – was educated in Catholic boarding schools to acquire a decent education. At the age of 16, he did, however, escape the strict priests and instead tried his luck as a car mechanic until he dared to ask his father to let him work at the latter’s company. His father made him start from the ground up – he had to clean toilets, stack up boxes. Nevertheless, Patrice made his way up the ranks slowly and was permitted to sell wines. Ultimately, he was allowed to participate in the assemblage – which is the term used to describe the blending of various base wines, which aims at ensuring consistent taste and quality levels. Family feuds eventually resulted in Bouvet-Ladubay’s sale to Taittinger in 1974. Taittinger was a champagne manufacturer steeped in tradition, which also owned luxury hotels. Back then, 31-year-old Patrice had been at the helm of the business for three years. During the sale, his negotiation skills were so impressive that Claude Taittinger left him in his leadership position. He gave the young man complete management leeway and he generated ten times the revenues for Bouvet-Ladubay over a period of 30 years. Things went well until a dispute arose within Taittinger and “we were suddenly called Starwood in 2005,” remembers Monmousseau. The managers of the American investment fund firm, who owned Starwood Hotels, “came and told us: >We are not wine experts by any means, so we will sell everything to the Champagne and will only keep the hotels.< The alarm bells went off in my head when I heard
that. Contrary to what had happened with Taittinger, this would have put our autonomy in jeopardy. It was quite a battle until I was given the go-ahead to find my own buyer for Bouvet-Ladubay. They showed me a list, which also had the name of my Indian on it.” There’s a European economic crisis? Well, that means the French drink even more sparkling wine. He came, looked at the business and bought it. He paid EUR 15 million. “Love at first glance,” is how Monmousseau describes it. Vijay Mallay is apparently a bon vivant who has diamond studs in his ears. He is the owner of United Breweries and did know a lot about the distribution of alcoholic beverages. “With him on board, I thought, we can buy a true factory to produce not 3.5 million bottles a year, but six million. I talked to him about it and he asked: <How do you think we should finance that?>. I said: <I’ll take out a loan and pay it back myself.>” That’s exactly what happened. Backed by a guarantee from the large conglomerate, Monmousseau was able to collect the required EUR 12.5 million loan. “I called the vintners, the banks and the press to a meeting and showed them our plan on a large screen – a highly automated plant boasting 14,000 square meters and told them: <We can boost our production to 6.4 million bottles a year.> At first, they just laughed and laughed some more.” Today, Monmousseau has reached the 6.5 million bottles mark and is aiming for 8 million. The plant, which he calls “Full Metal”, is a single floor industrial hangar structure with a classic entrance portal, which is reached by way of a palm lined driveway. This is where the base wines are being stored and turned into sparkling wines. The famous riddling (remuage) of the bottles, which are stored with their tops facing down, and which was once done manually by master of riddling, is now an automated process. After all, the movement of the hand performed by the “remueurs” in order to accelerate the transportation of the yeast into the bottleneck is a simple one and the sole deciding factor is the timing and the storage angle. “Have a look at these de-gorging machines. In the past this was brutal manual labor,” explains Monmousseau. Once the yeast and its by-products have traveled to the bottleneck during the second fermentation, the bottleneck is shock cooled with ammonia nitrogen. The crown cork is removed from the bottle top and the ice block containing the yeast is catapulted out of the bottle. The bottle is refilled. All of these processes are handled by a machine. Even the transportation of the bottles no longer strains anyone’s back, as these jobs are now handled by yellow robots, which are equipped with powerful yet sensitive pneumatics. The few workers left at the “Bouvet Full Metal” say “Hello Patrice” when they pass us by. More than 6 million bottles per year are now being handled by just 54 employees, of which more than half work in sales or administrative positions – that is the result of consistent lean management. It would have been impossible for the business to grow had it not been for this approach. Nowadays, about 80 vintner families who live in Saumur and environs are working for Bouvet-Ladubay. It’s a blessing for the region. Indian millions, the world market, a medium-sized production facility, small farmers – and it all works well together. When the factory was built in 2008, the economic crisis was imminent. According to Patrice, it did not have an adverse impact on bubbly sales. “During such times, everyone wants to treat themselves – especially if it is not that expensive.” This is in particular true in France, where the rags write pages and pages about champagne, foie gras and other delights before any major holiday and where even discount supermarkets offer oysters right around those days. Now that we have completed our tour of the plant, we go into town, visit the market and end up in a bistro. This man is as French as brie, but he has an easy time making fun of the stuck-up ways of many of the other Frenchmen, who “do not speak English as a matter of principle and who, if they travel abroad on a vacation at all, might end up in Tunisia and would not dare explore any other place. France’s vintners are a true exception, they are actual globetrotters.” His wife is from Sweden, his mother is English. A man with that kind of a background will likely not be able to relate to the notables of the small provincial town he lives in. The town reaps numerous benefits from the presence of Bouvet-Ladubay. One reason is that Patrice is a walking event agency. A car enthusiast, he sponsored the 24-hour race of Le Mans, until new law prohibited advertising for alcohol at sports events. Hence, he moved on to the arts and literature. Every year since, Samur has been the venue for a literature festival, which draws an audience of thousands. Famous and eternally misunderstood authors come here, as do vintners from the region along with their wines. Lots of ideas take root here; gallons of sparkling wine are served. Sometimes even Gerard Depardieu stops by, grabs a grilled chicken from the kitchen along with a glass of wine and makes a
brief but interesting speech. The event concludes with a fireworks display, which also matches Monmousseau’s grandeur. There are tons of loud bangs and the thunder definitely rolls. One time, one of the walls surrounding Chateau Samur actually collapsed. Whenever Monmousseau hosts a feast, expect some walls to collapse. Patrice knows that the bubbly has to be infused with a symbolic charge and that is one of the reasons he hosts these events. He had the old theater building, which the founder of the company had erected for his wife in his day, carefully restored – with lots of plush adornments, putti and pomp. The art museum, which is part of the property, on the other hand, features a modernistic style and houses contemporary sculptures and paintings. The company also owns an underground cathedral: a gigantic hollow room, which was cut into the tufa a long time ago to harvest construction materials for churches and castles. Today illuminated sculptures are on display here, reflecting the town’s history. This is where the base wines are stored in barrels to ripen. Whenever Patrice gets to enjoy a quiet moment, he likes to sit in one of the typical flat wooden boats one sees linger on the Loire. He revs up the engine, opens a bottle, grabs a baguette to eat and some local charcuterie. Simple joys. A boat moves by slowly, occupied by a grandfatherly type who toasts us with a glass of red wine. We pass an island that spans four hectares. Patrice owns it and has baptized it “Free Republic.” He’s appointed famous business partners his ministers. Director Claude Chabrol, for instance, who passed away in 2010, was the pig leg’s minister, while actress Macha Meril still holds the position of minister of smiles and their consequences. At his company, everything focuses on Patrice – according to Patrice. He turned 70 this July. The time of transition has begun. He had decided to make his daughter Juliette his successor. The 34-year-old who has the blonde hair of a Swede, studied graphic design in Paris and has previously worked as a movie producer. She has recently returned to Samur and is the head of the sales department. Soon, all eyes will be upon her. She will make decisions in the assemblage, on the assortment, the strategy – she will be the one; not some numbers cruncher in India. Well over a dozen years ago, liberal entrepreneur Alain Minc wrote a book on “Happy Globalization.” It earned him a lot of ridicule in France. In Samur, one can take a tour that proves that this phenomenon does actually exist.
Box: Sparkling Wine Production Wine is the commodity used to make champagne and other sparkling wines. Once must has fermented into wine, vintners allow the wine to ferment a second time by adding yeast and sugar to bottles and by sealing them with drown corks. After the fermentation process is complete, they store the bottles with their necks pointing downward and shake them – either manually or with a machine. As a result, the yeast settles above the cork. Finally, they immerse the bottles into ice water to freeze the yeast so that it can be removed. After this step, the bottles are sealed with a champagne cork. Drinking According to estimates of the German Wine Institute, more than two billion bottles of sparkling wine are sold around the globe each and every year. Every fifth bottle is consumed in Germany – an international record. In 2012, every German drank an average of six 0.75-liter bottles of sparkling wine based on information provided by the German Federal Statistics Office. The French and the Russians love their drinks as well. In China and India, consumption is still expected to rise according to projections of the TNS market research institute. Worldwide, the market is expected to grow by two percent.
DAILY WINE PICK BOUVET-LADUBAY Excellence Brut Rosé A charming sparkler, with strawberry, cherry and watermelon flavors, offering a fresh, lingering finish that shows a light bergamot note. – James Molesworth
May 16, 2013
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