Holland Herald
Holland Herald FEBRUARY 2009 YOUR COPY TO KEEP
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THE
east FEBRUARY 2009
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Valencia Region. I give you everything.
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east
Cover illustrations: Joost Swarte
With the sound of fireworks still ringing in our ears after the recent Chinese New Year, our eyes remain eastwards this month, where the rising sun begins its daily journey. Join us as we explore Malaysian Borneo, the origins of tea, and the new face of Eastern Europe, stopping off along the way at Dejima, where Japanese and Dutch history have been entwined for four centuries.
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THE EAST ISSUE
Contents
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16
50
The Dejima brief
Up jungle
Partial to martial
Jane Szita explores the special
There are monkeys, sea turtles and
You have watched every Bruce Lee flick
relationship between Japan and The
creepy-crawlies aplenty in the lush wilds
there is, and have a Shaolin monk
Netherlands that spans 400 years
of Malaysian Borneo. But it’s a fine
screensaver, but there’s more to kung fu
ecological balance that needs protecting
than entertainment. Read up on it here
Cover illustration Celebrated Dutch illlustrator Joost Swarte designed this month’s cover. He has been in the business for over 30 years and is regularly commissioned by prominent publications across the world, including The New Yorker. He received a Dutch knighthood from Queen Beatrix of The Netherlands in 2004
08 In the picture
39
Cross-cultural inspiration
14 Facts and figures
Eastwood meets Westwood
40 42
A fresh look at Eastern Europe
36 Back to the source 48 Rediscovering the origins of tea
Gadgets Inspired by the Orient
Bite-sized info
32 The new EU
Celebrity face-off
Touchdowns The best city guides
Updates What’s on in The Netherlands
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Contents
THE EAST ISSUE
Holland Herald www.hollandherald.nl
KLM Travellers Check 54 55 57 59 60 61 62 64 71 77 78 Behind the scenes Entertainment overhaul
KLM news
All the latest information
People & planet
AirCares supports Dance4Life
Flying Blue news
Information for frequent flyers
Partners
An overview of our companion companies
KLM.com
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Plane facts
Volume 44 Number 2 February 2009 Published by MediaPartners LoyaliteitsCommunicatie Editor-in-Chief Mike Cooper mikecooper@mediapartners.nl Project Editor Ruth Lindsay Art Director Jacob Mulder Desk Editors Brian Jones, Scott Roane Concept Lava, Amsterdam Designer Allan Grotjohann Photo Editor Monique van Wegen Traffic Coordinator Simone Snaterse Account Brunhilde Oosterhuis Contributors Hannah Cleaver, Pip Farquharson, Annemarie Hoeve, Sophie Ibbotson, Christian Jungeblodt, Max Lowell-Hoare, Joost Swarte, Jane Szita, Jeanne Tan, Jan-Reinier van der Vliet PUBLISHER MediaPartners Group B.V. Head office (Editorial and Advertising) PO Box 2215, 1180 EE Amstelveen, The Netherlands Tel: +31-20-5473600 www.mediapartners.nl ADVERTISING KLM Media A sales division of MediaPartners. Arno van Grondelle, Marjan van Hal, Cedric-Fabian Hovenburg, Kitty Visser sales@mediapartners.nl Shopping Pages Design and Concept Eline Gambino-Lebens Shopping Photography/Production Lukkien Shopping Design/Layout Daan de Vogel, Lemon Crush KLM COORDINATION Frederic van Nierop, Coraline Krak
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Route maps
The world at your fingertips
Airport hubs Finding your way
Fit for flying
Tips and exercises for a comfortable flight
Baggage rules
Security rules for EU airports
Shopping
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Stuck on design
Photo: Vitra
Dutch designer Richard Hutten has said that he likes creating things people become attached to. With these leaf magnets produced by Gispen, he has added a new dimension to this idea. Their sole purpose is to cling to any boring surface in sight. They already adorn the office ceilings of Rotterdam’s Boijmans Van Beuningen modern art museum, which commissioned him to add some cheer to its interiors. Hutten’s minimalistic, playful style has kept him in high demand since his international breakthrough as one of the founders of Droog Design in the 1990s – especially in Japan, where he is now so famous he hands out autographs. With a Korean design academy named after him opening in Seoul in 2010, he looks set to inspire a new generation of Asian designers with his Dutch touch. www.richardhutten.com
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Born in Okinawa, artist Yuken Teruya has now made New York his home, drawing inspiration from the link between nature and consumerism. He makes the most intricate cut-outs from materials most others would simply throw out, such as toilet rolls and empty McDonald’s bags. With painstaking precision he recreates complete trees out of packaging material without adding anything or getting rid of any surplus. In this way, he hopes to return a consumer product that no longer has any use back to the forest. www.yukenteruyastudio.com
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Photo: Eun Young Choi
Taste for waste
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Proving that simple materials can produce the most impressive effects is Canadian designer Chris Kirby. This spiral lamp is the result of hours of experimenting with slits in a piece of paper, an effect Kirby then emulated in sheet metal. Based in Tokyo, he enjoys being submerged in a different culture. “In Japan, I’m inspired by the interplay and contrast of the very old and ultramodern; of traditional craft and contemporary design,” he explains. He has been struck by the fact that the Japanese are very interested in the process behind the design, rather than just the form itself and it has helped him to “appreciate the beauty in chance happenings”. www.chriskirbydesign.com
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Photo: Chris Kirby
Shades of light
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East facts & figures Words: Jeanne Tan
12-15 Outliving most pet cats or dogs, the Eastern Red-spotted Newt,
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between 12-15 years.
121 and 14 Clocked shooting skyward as high as 121 centimetres in a 24-hour period, bamboo is the fastest-growing plant on Earth. That’s good news for the cuddly Giant Panda,
Photo: Robert Lang
a salamander commonly found in north-east America, can live
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For American physicist Robert J. Lang, folding paper into the most intricate sculptures has become a way of life. With over 30 years of experience in origami, he
has around 500 designs to his name, including scorpions, owls, and a tiny paper tick. He is also the first Westerner invited to
Scrabblers take note. There
address the Nippon Origami Association’s annual meeting and
average of 9-14 kilograms of
are five anagrams from east:
has even used his origami knowledge to develop airbags in cars
bamboo shoots a day.
eats, sate, seat, seta and teas.
and expandable telescopes in space. www.langorigami.com
who happily munches an
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Kimchi, the Korean version of sauerkraut, is infamous for its stink and subsequent bad breath for those who devour it. The Kimchi Field Museum in Seoul has documented 187 historic and current varieties of the country’s most popular fermented side dish. The national love of the delicacy is boundless: the Korean Aerospace Research Institute event went so far as to develop a special type of kimchi which can be eaten by astronauts during space missions.
Photo: Hollandse Hoogte
6,700 KM
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The majestic Great Wall of China spans over 6,700 kilometres, crumbling in some parts and lovingly restored in others. Contrary to popular belief, the wall is not visible from space: no lunar astronaut has ever claimed to have seen the wall from the moon nor does it show up during low earth orbits. Nevertheless, it remains one of mankind’s greatest feats.
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64kph
795
The highest ever recorded
The oldest reported Eastern
speed of any kangaroo was
Red Cedar tree, native to
64 kilometres per hour set by
north-east America, was 795
a large female Eastern Grey
years old, found in Missouri.
Kangaroo. Even though this
The aromatic wood is well
is as fast as a car, Australians
known for its moth-repellent
still don’t ride kangaroos to
qualities, hence it should
school or work...
be the best friend of any woollen jumper sitting in the cupboard.
With a truly cult following, the popular BBC series
EastEnders, set in London’s East End, has been screening for 24 years.
420.4 Chefs in Zhengzhou, China made noodle history in November 2008 with their 420.4 metres long, 63Photo: Getty Images
kilogram bundle of rice noodles. The lucky residents of the city were invited to help eat the giant oodles of noodles afterwards.
5,124 SHOWS The Broadway production of Rent, the rock musical, closed in 2008, after a 12-year run and 5,124 performances, making it the seventh-longest-running Broadway show. Set in New York’s East Village, Rent tells the story of a group of young musicians and artists trying to survive under the shadow of AIDS. EAST Holland Herald
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Trading This year is the 400th anniversary of the first Japan-Netherlands trade agreement and its impact is still tangible. Jane Szita investigates little white rabbits, red-haired barbarians, and an ongoing cultural exchange ILLUSTRATIONS: WENT&NAVARRO
In this age of globalisation, with sushi, manga and kimonos available in every city, it’s hard to imagine a time when Japan was a mysterious, unknown land. To medieval Europeans, however, it was known only as a legend: “Cipangu”, as Marco Polo called it. And even after Western ships could reach it, Japan quickly isolated itself from outside influences, choosing to maintain contact with only one European country: The Netherlands. From the 17th to the 19th centuries, Dutch traders were the sole providers of exotic Japanese goods to the West, and the only source of Western ideas for the Japanese. You don’t have to go far in 21st-century Netherlands to find evidence that the historic relationship, although no longer exclusive, is still thriving. The headcount of Japanese companies with European offices in Amsterdam and other Dutch cities is nearing 400, and includes Canon, Mitsubishi, and Fujitsu. The second-largest Japanese community in Europe lives in Amstelveen, served by a whole range of Japanese service providers, from hairdressers to fishmongers. According to the latest trade figures, the Dutch remain the EU’s third-
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places
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HOLLAND AND JAPAN
“Five ships headed out in search of Japan. Only one survived the two-year voyage”
biggest importer of Japanese goods. Many of these items are shipped on from The Netherlands to other countries, much as they were in the 17th century.
“There’s an enormous interest in Japanese culture in The Netherlands today,” says Professor Willem van Gulik, of Leiden University. “Our Japanese Studies course is attracting 150 students a year, and that number is still growing. That’s twice the total we had at the height of Japan’s economic boom in the 1980s.” The Dutch students currently visiting Japan are following in the footsteps of the handful of VOC (Dutch East India Company) adventurers who first made landfall in Japan in 1600. They were there not to observe another culture, but to make money. And that objective was realised only after the first shogun, Tokugawa Ieyasu, granted the VOC a trade permit in 1609, exactly 400 years ago. Professor Van Gulik is on the
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committee organising events to mark the occasion. “Our diplomatic connections, and our cultural exchanges in art, science and technology, all began with this trade relationship,” he says. When the VOC adventurers arrived in Japan, however, nine years before, the future hadn’t looked quite so promising. Five ships had headed out in search of the route to the ‘Silver Empire’, as Japan was then known. Only one, De Liefde (The Charity) survived the arduous, storm-tossed, two-year voyage. The few survivors could hardly stand, and their welcome was less than warm: the Portuguese and Spanish who had reached Japan a half-century before denounced them as pirates and called for their execution. Fortunately, Tokugawa Ieyasu took a liking to the crew, choosing two men to be his particular advisors: Will Adams, the navigator and only Englishman on board (the VOC, like the
HOLLAND AND JAPAN
Gone East And least? People are so polite it’s hard to get to know them. And the Japanese language is difficult. What do you most miss about The Netherlands? The relaxed nightlife. And good brown bread. What do you miss when away from Japan? Michel Habets was born in
The food, and the feeling
Heerlen and settled in Japan
of safety.
after travelling the world. He lives in Shodoshima, where he
What do Japan and The
has built a Dutch windmill that
Netherlands have in common?
houses a popular pancake
A similar population density.
house and café.
Something like 660 people per square kilometre in Japan
What do you like most
and 680 in The Netherlands.
about Japan?
true multinational it was, was already recruiting beyond Dutch borders), and second mate Jan Joosten van Lodensteijn, from Delft. Their knowledge of nautical and military affairs won them many privileges. To this day, an area of Tokyo is still known as Yaesu, after Joosten. The shogun was also impressed by their lack of interest in converting the Japanese to Christianity – in marked contrast to the Jesuits of Portugal and Spain. It is said the new arrivals would shout, “We’re not Christians, we’re Hollanders!” That might not be strictly accurate, but it’s suggestive of the pragmatic approach, many years ahead of the times, that the VOC showed in Japan.
“The Dutch were practical, and had no problem with going along with the rules in another country,” says Van Gulik. “Their only agenda was business.” Their flexibility and willingness to observe local etiquette paid dividends when, in
The safety: the relatively low
What can the two countries
crime rate makes for a secure
learn from each other?
feeling. Also the beauty of
I think that Japan is too much
Japanese nature, the
oriented towards the group,
mountains, forests, and sea.
and The Netherlands too
People are generally kind
much towards the individual.
and friendly.
There should be a middle way.
1639, the Japanese – only recently unified and fearing further divisions and civil war – expelled the Spanish and Portuguese. The “red-haired barbarians”, as the Japanese referred to the Dutch, remained the only Western contact for the Sakoku period, which began in 1633. They were restricted to the man-made island of Dejima, the size of Dam Square in Amsterdam, which has since been restored to its former glory. There they stayed until Commodore Perry of the US Navy forced Japan to open its ports to Western ships in 1853, ending the Sakoku era. For the Japanese, the Dutch brought luxury Chinese goods, mainly silks. But an increasingly important by-product of trade was rangaku: “Dutch learning”. Japanese art was one of the first areas affected, absorbing Western styles into its famous Nagasaki School. Through Dutch books, Japan could keep up with European scientific progress in medicine, anatomy, engineering, chemistry and other subjects. A German in EAST Holland Herald
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Rabbit tales The best-known Dutch export to Japan is a small, white rabbit known as Miffy-chan – although she’s called Nijntje in her native Netherlands. In 2005, the eternally youthful children’s book character turned 50. In Tokyo’s Matsuya department store, an exhibition to celebrate the event attracted 200,000 visitors in just two weeks. According to the curator, Daisuke Kusakari, in Japan, “People of all ages, and even men, buy Miffy products,” which helps to explain how the little rabbit, created by Dick Bruna, earns a cool ¥40 billion (€237 million) a year in Japanese product sales alone. And that’s not even counting the books…
the service of the VOC as the Dejima physician, Phillip Franz von Siebold, had an enormous impact in introducing Western medicine to Japan. He was also a great collector, and his collection went on to form the basis of the National Museum of Ethnology in Leiden.
“An important by-product of trade was rangaku, or Dutch learning” After Perry’s arrival, Japan embarked on a programme of rapid modernisation, with intensive help from The Netherlands in establishing modern shipyards, hospitals and chemistry laboratories, which, among other things, created the alloys used in Japan’s first modern coins. But perhaps the most visible signs
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of the relationship were the waterworks and flood defences designed by Dutch civil engineers like Johannis de Rijke, whose 30-year career in Japan was crowned by his appointment as Vice Minister: a unique honour for a foreigner.
De Rijke had earned his position by designing many of Japan’s modern ports, including Osaka, Nagasaki and Yokohama, plus water defence systems for areas such as the Yodogawa River and Kiso Sansen. At the same time that these were being constructed, Japanese students were beginning to travel to The Netherlands for the first time. So the profitable exchange continued into the 20th century, with Philips helping Japanese electronics company Matsushita to get started, and Dutch cut flowers becoming a major export from The Netherlands. Towards the turn of the century, the relationship between the two countries even resulted in the Huis ten Bosch theme park in Japan – complete with copies of Dutch buildings that those original VOC adventurers would have recognised.
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13-01-2009 08:20:53
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TRAVEL BORNEO
Escape to Borneo It’s a jungle out there, Hannah Cleaver discovers, as she delves into Malaysian Borneo and enters a world of wild monkeys, heavenly diving, and eco-tourism PHOTOGRAPHY: CHRISTIAN JUNGEBLODT
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TRAVEL MALAYSIA
Imagine waking up to this view
THIS PAGE: Malaysian Borneo is famous for its wild proboscis monkeys, such as this one, spotted during a river cruise near Sukau Rainforest Lodge
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TRAVEL MALAYSIA
To get to the wilds of Malaysian Borneo you have to dive into the country’s most civilised part: Kuala Lumpur. The capital city is a great place to shrug off jetlag, start to appreciate the warm smiles, which are so easy to elicit from just about everybody – and dig into the enormous and delicious range of food the country has to offer. Far from the hectic, crowded and dangerous Asian metropolis of some imaginings, KL, as it is universally called, is wonderfully manageable, even for first-time Asia visitors. The Golden Triangle in the centre is dominated by the gleaming glass high-rises of banks, hotels and the Petronas Twin Towers, owned by the state
KL is only the beginning though; the trip takes on a different flavour on the little plane which flies to Malaysian Borneo, landing in Kota Kinabalu, capital of the northernmost state of Sabah. Here it is not so much the people who fascinate, but the chance of catching a glimpse of our relatives in the increasingly hemmed-in pieces of wild. Borneo’s most famous natives are the orang-utans – but proboscis monkeys are actually more exciting for the wildlife cognoscenti. Orang-utans can also be found in Sumatra, but proboscis monkeys only live in Borneo. They’re not too difficult to find either – a boat trip up the Kinabatangan River from Sandakan is
”The shaking of branches means a monkey has landed” oil company. Yet lunch comes from a man on the street corner, who hands over rice in a banana leaf cone and indicates a choice of curries to be spooned in from containers on a makeshift table. Gorgeous Hindu temples leak the mixed scents of jasmine flowers and milk offerings gently souring in the heat in Little India, while in Chinatown the shops invade the streets at night with stalls groaning with watches, bags and clothes. And Malay town? It’s called Kampung Baru, and must not be missed, with its market full of amazing and sometimes puzzling fruit, spices and dried fish – and an entire neighbourhood filled with delicious little places to eat. Feet tired from wandering the streets – including frequent detours to follow the nose for yet another stall meal – can be refreshed at one of the many foot massage parlours touting their services on the streets.
soon halted as the driver spots monkeys in the trees which rise up from muddy mangrove shores. After a couple of days, the eyes become alert to the shaking of branches, which means a monkey has leapt and landed. The proboscis monkeys ignore the boatload of spellbound travellers to squabble, munch leaves, groom insects off each other, doze in the heat or hoot an alarm when a rival group comes too close.
Motorised canoes departing from a number of jungle lodges near Sukau take visitors up tiny byways of brown water for a taste of the jungle. Even a short walk introduces a selection of creepy-crawlies. The mosquitoes are the first to register their irritating presence, and some of the larger centipedes are very interesting. But it is the leeches, surprisingly quick to crawl EAST Holland Herald
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TRAVEL MALAYSIA
Street food Some might suggest the food in Malaysia is worth a trip on its own. We certainly enjoyed exploring the little outside eateries in KL, Kota Kinabalu and Sandakan. Indian cafes and restaurants offer ‘pulled tea’, black tea with sweet condensed milk poured from jug to cup with vigour and at such a distance that the tea froths with bubbles. It is best enjoyed with warm roti bread, served with little saucers of curry and daal. Malaysian curries tend to be spicy, often served on banana leaves and always delicious. The fruit and vegetables in the street markets are fascinating, and a smile and curious question often leads to an explanation and tasting. The best meal we had was at the Kota Kinabalu Philippine market, a large section of which is given over to cooked fish stalls. Also try an ABC afterwards: condensed milk poured over shaved ice with a portion of beans, and all manner of odd sweets thrown on top – surprisingly tasty. TOP: Kuala Lumpur’s Petronas Twin Towers seen from Hotel Maya’s sky lounge ABOVE LEFT: The capital’s central market ABOVE RIGHT: Preparing tea in Kuala Lumpur’s Golden Triangle district LEFT: A Philippine night market in Kota Kinabalu FAR LEFT: Kampung Baru market
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TRAVEL MALAYSIA LEFT: The perfect getaway for ecoaware divers
Going green Visitors to Malaysian Borneo may well want to play their part in trying to reduce the destruction of the jungle. The World Wide Fund for Nature, WWF, is supporting the governments of Malaysia, Indonesia and Brunei in their efforts to create a ‘Heart of Borneo Forests’ protected
up rubber boots, and frighteningly able to push through clothing, which take the biscuit. Possibly the best thing to do is a night-time trip up the river. The eyes of a crocodile gleam at water level, fish owls perch on shadowy branches concentrating for prey, and a monitor lizard can be seen already asleep in a tree. Ask the guide to cut the motor and switch off the torches. The dark is scattered with fireflies, and the night is complete, its coolness and damp air making it deliciously smooth, stroking all the senses. Don’t forget to breathe. Don’t forget to close your mouth.
area. But the demand for palm oil is not slowing – and consumers are urged to look carefully at what they use and where it comes from. Palm oil is used in products as varied as margarine, chocolate, cream cheese and cosmetics. It is also increasingly used in biodiesel.
One explanation for the
proliferation of wildlife along the Kinabatangan River could be that the jungle lining its banks are thin strips of wilderness surrounded by palm oil plantations and the animals are practically trapped there. Sadly, this seems to be true. The march of the plantations can be best appreciated from the air, their regular lines pushing back the bountiful chaos of untamed jungle. The palms sometimes interrupt the wall of jungle along the riverbank. Even right next door to an eco lodge,
The Roundtable on Sustainable Palm Oil was set up in 2001 to establish ethical and ecological standards for palm oil production. Members included companies such as Unilever, Cadbury’s, Nestlé and Tesco as well as some of the bigger palm oil traders. Greenpeace has been highly
”Hindu temples leak the mixed scents of jasmine flowers and milk offerings”
critical of the results though, and has called for a moratorium on converting forest and peat land into plantations. For more
an area has been cleared – to the dismay of those who work there. “There is nothing we can do,” says Hazwan bin Suban, a guide at the Sukau Rainforest Lodge. “We need to live from the palm oil. Tourism is increasing but we still need the oil. We are trying to protect the forest, and the government is doing a few things to protect it, but it cannot do anything if the land is privately owned. People are thinking about money in the short term. There is deforestation and that has led to flooding and changed
information, see the Borneo section of the WWF website: WWW.PANDA.ORG.
Greenpeace also has information on the uses of palm oil and things that can be done to help: WWW.GREENPEACE.ORG
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TRAVEL MALAYSIA
the colour of the river.” Twenty-seven-year-old Wasil bin Misil worked at a palm oil mill before getting a job at the lodge, where he now works as a guide, expertly pointing out which plants can kill, and which can safely be used as a nail file. “It was really hard work at the mill,” he says. “It nearly broke my body. But it is very difficult to earn money in Borneo and I worked at the mill for more than two years before I heard about this job. This is much more interesting; I get to learn about the plants and animals.”
Proboscis monkeys can be seen at even closer quarters at the Labuk Bay Proboscis Monkey Sanctuary, a ragged patch of land just outside Sandakan, set aside for the wildlife by a plantation owner. His employees put out fruit and vegetables twice a day and an enchanting couple of hours can be spent
platform in the jungle, while the orang-utans are given food on another platform 50 metres or so away. The circumstances are hardly natural, but it is still an exciting experience. These are animals which have been rescued, pepped up and reintroduced to the wild, with the snacking sessions a good way for the workers to keep track of how they are doing, as well as attracting tourists. Sylvia Alsisto, manager at the centre, says they have more than 40 baby and juvenile orang-utans being cared for at any one time. “They are generally found by villagers in the jungle, and kept as pets, but people cannot look after them properly and they are often malnourished and sometimes sick by the time we get them,” she says. “We have carried out an extensive education programme to encourage people to bring us the babies as soon as they find them. The majority of what we do is not seen by the visitors – but the tourists are very important to maintain political
”Surprisingly quick to crawl up rubber boots, and able to push through clothing, the leeches take the biscuit” watching the four troops chase off the squirrels, macaque monkeys and grey leaf monkeys which all want a piece of the food action. Extreme good fortune may bring you the privilege of seeing an orang-utan in the wild. Yet it can be an unsettling experience, the wary creature coughing and spitting her disapproval of the human observers standing agog at the edge of the plantation which has replaced her habitat. Less edgy orang-utans can be seen twice a day at snack time at the Sepilok Rehabilitation Centre, a must-do for visitors. Because it is on every northern Borneo agenda, an intimate encounter cannot be expected – the people are corralled onto a large
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pressure to preserve areas of wilderness. We have a lot of interaction with local communities which now support us, and are becoming increasingly aware of the need to protect the jungle,” Alsisto adds.
There is also a need to protect the oceans – and when carefully combined, tourism and conservation can work together there too. Another speedboat trip from Sandakan leads to Lankayan Island, which while tiny, encompasses many of the complicated issues swirling in the waters around Borneo. On first arrival, it appears to be simply the most gorgeous paradise dive resort. Luscious tropical trees perch on hot white sand,
TRAVEL MALAYSIA
OPPOSITE PAGE: Even the birds are laid-back THIS PAGE: Waiting for a boat
TRAVEL MALAYSIA LEFT: Marine biologist Achier Fung Chen Chung with tiny baby turtles in Lankayan Island’s special marine reserve BELOW: One of the few baby sea turtles to make it to this size
surrounded by sparkling water – a fish-filled invitation to snorkel, and a handful of lovely chalets to create the most romantic setting. But it is not just about swimming, diving, snoozing in hammocks and staring slack-jawed in wonder at majestic red sunsets. Behind the chalets, patches of sand are punctuated by small tubes of netting, and surrounded by mysterious little fences. It turns out the building behind the restaurant is not for food preparation – it is the office of Achier Fung Chen Chung, marine biologist for the Sugud Islands Marine Conservation Area, SIMCA. A dedicated young woman, Chung leads a team of
knowing the natural odds of any of them ever making it to maturity are tiny, one can understand the determination of people like Chung to try to reduce the human factors which reduce those odds further. “I have been doing this for years, it has become my life,” she says. “I used to pray for them. Now I just keep working.”
Diving off Sipadan Island, along the more southerly part of Sabah, the abundant marine life cruising the immense underwater cliffs pays tribute to the decision in 2004 for the dive resorts to leave. They moved to nearby islands such as Mabul to
”The little creatures emerge from their eggs powered by an enormous primal urge to swim” nine in monitoring and patrolling more than 46 hectares of ocean, trying to limit illegal fishing and practices which endanger turtles. With determined fishermen using drift nets, dynamite and cyanide, and operating at night, this is no mean feat. Although the dive resort is the most visible part of Lankayan, it is SIMCA which has the upper hand. It leases the island from the government and then sub-leases it to the resort operator – under strict environmental and conservation conditions, says Chung. The fenced-off patches of sand are hatcheries where thousands of turtle eggs taken from their vulnerable nests on the beach are reburied in safety. “We had 12,000 babies in 2007, and around 20,000 the year before,” says Chung. Visitors are welcome to volunteer to help, and some spend much of the time on their knees, carefully burying eggs. The little creatures emerge from their eggs powered by an enormous primal urge to get to the water and swim. Watching them set off into the endless ocean,
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reduce pressure on the environment, explains Clement Lee, MD of Borneo Divers, and one of the original group which discovered Sipadan. “The environment is our silent business partner,” he says.
This applies to the tourism industry across Borneo, in the Malaysian north and the Indonesian centre and south. Some operators such as Chung and Lee, have already realised this, and are working to preserve the environment and encourage the wildlife. They have realised that visitors come to Borneo to experience the wonders of the stunning natural world and that where tourists lead, investment and employment follow. It can only be hoped that their attitude spreads – and some of the little turtles which we saw swimming so determinedly into the ocean from Lankayan, survive to return, and find it suitable to lay the next generation.
TRAVEL MALAYSIA RIGHT: Preparing for a wedding at Sandakan harbour BELOW: A tropical terrace
Malaysian Borneo ECO TOURISM
to show visitors the wonders
Reef and Rainforest Tours
of Sipadan.
can arrange tailor-made trips,
www.borneodivers.info.
with an emphasis on sustainability. www. reefandrainforest.co.uk.
HOW TO GET THERE
KLM Royal Dutch Airlines
There are masses of useful
operates two daily flights from
information, advice and links
Amsterdam Airport Schiphol to
from the Sabah Tourism Board
Kuala Lumpur International
on www.sabahtourism.com.
Airport. Once there, a cool
Borneo Eco Tours can arrange
place to acclimatise and
just about anything, and has a
explore KL is Hotel Maya
stock of well-informed and
www.hotelmaya-
friendly guides. www.
kualalumpur.com. From KL
borneoecotours.com.
Malaysia Airlines operates ten daily flights to Kota Kinabalu in
MONKEY-SPOTTING
Malaysian Borneo.
The Sepilok Orang-utan Rehabilitation Centre is supported by a UK charity which runs an adoption scheme; info from www. orangutan-appeal.org.uk. Visit Labuk Bay Proboscis Monkey Sanctuary for close-
Asia
up monkey encounters. www.proboscis.cc. JUNGLE FEVER
For adventures in the jungle and breathtaking
Lankayan Island Kota Kinabalu
night-time river trips, check out Sukau Rainforest Lodge.
Kuala Lumpur
www.sukau.com.
Brunei Malaysia
Sabah
Borneo
DREAMY DIVING
Singapore
Lankayan is simply paradise. Find it at www. lankayan-island.com. Borneo Divers has a base on Mabul and expert local dive guides
TOP: Tasty street food ABOVE: Lankayan Island Dive Resort’s inviting chalet
Indonesia
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13-01-2009 08:25:44
TRAVEL ECUADOR
Eastern promise Long hidden behind the Iron Curtain, Eastern Europe is today embracing a new era of accessibility. Dutch photographer Jan-Reinier van der Vliet takes a fresh look at the region and talks about local life
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ABOVE: Daugavpils, Latvia ”Most of the people living here, in Latvia’s secondbiggest city, are Russian-speaking. The group is dressed in their best to celebrate their graduation and are posing in front of an expensive car – a big status symbol here.” LEFT: Miskolc, Hungary ”This bar, in the top of one of those big Communist-era towers you see in so many of these towns, is where locals come to relax and have fun.” LEFT: Kaunas, Lithuania ”The Communists built masses of these imposing monuments. This particular one is a memorial to victims of Fascism. Today it is a favourite haunt for young people to meet.” EAST Holland Herald
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13-01-2009 08:27:25
PHOTOGRAPHY
ABOVE: Narva, Estonia ”Photos of Eastern Europe are often taken in dreary weather, giving the images a sad quality. I want to show a different reality.” RIGHT: Gorzów, Poland “Small travelling fairs, such as this one, are still common here.”
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PHOTOGRAPHY
ABOVE: Budapest, Hungary ”This area in the old centre of Pest was slowly crumbling, but is now being redeveloped. New homes and shops are being built at a rapid pace.” LEFT: Nowa Huta, Poland Socialist Realist architecture from the 1950s. This neighbourhood was built to house steel workers from the local foundry.”
This selection was taken from an extensive series of photographs by Jan-Reinier van der Vliet, depicting modern-day Eastern Europe, from Bulgaria to Estonia. They appear in a book Wonen in Oost Europa (Living in Eastern Europe) by 010 Publishers (Dutch only). www.jrfoto.nl EAST Holland Herald
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13-01-2009 08:33:02
TRAVEL ECUADOR
On the tea trail How far would you go for a cup of tea? How about 24,000 kilometres? In this Holland Herald exclusive, the documentary filmmakers who are ‘tracing tea’ share their stories about their eastern quest to discover the history of this delicious brew WORDS: SOPHIE IBBOTSON
Cambridge London Harwich Tregothnan Tea Estate
Hamburg Amsterdam Delft Prague Vienna Bratislava Budapest
Sofia Edirne
Samsun
Istanbul Ankara
Erzurum
A
Tabriz Rasht Tehran
Photo: iStockphoto
Tea is the most
Indian Assam tea on sale at a local market
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•East_Tracing Tea 3pages.indd 36
popular beverage in the world. The Irish hold the record as the greatest per capita consumers, the Indians are the greatest producers and the Chinese the purported discoverers. Tea is a truly global phenomenon. However, it would take committed tea lovers such as us to contemplate driving across two continents, three mountain ranges and 18 countries in the name of tea. “The world has become very small,” explains Max Lovell-Hoare, our producer. “We can go absolutely anywhere but few people are prepared to step out and meet their global neighbours. Tea is something a lot of us have in common, and through our Tracing Tea documentary, we want to meet different people, get a better understanding of
Esfahan
their cultures and share this knowledge with everyone.” The decision was made to make the journey in a Bajaj 175cc auto-rickshaw, the three-wheeled icon of India, and its European counterpart, the Piaggio Ape. Commonly described as resembling rideon mowers, the auto-rickshaws continue to keep things interesting en route.
Ya Shiraz
The perfect cup of tea begins with the leaf, so where better to start than in Darjeeling, home of the “Champagne of teas”? The first Darjeeling estate was planted in 1841 with seedlings stolen from China by British spies. The Makaibari Estate holds the world record price for tea sold at auction. We made Makaibari’s fields our official departure point and will carry the estate’s Muscatel
EAST
12-01-2009 14:03:00
BELOW: Tracing Tea’s team at the top of the Khunjerab Pass
Photo: Ric Ergenbright/Corbis
All photography by Max Lowell-Hoare unless specified
LEFT: Presenter Sam Datta-Paulin in Varanasi, India BOTTOM LEFT: The Chinese-Pakistani border at the pinnacle of Khunjerab Pass
LEFT: A lone tea picker at the Glenburn Tea Estate in Darjeeling, India
Bishkek Bukhara A
Tashkent
Kashgar
Ashgabat
Samarkand
Mashhad Islamabad Amritsar Ya
Yazd
Lahore Delhi
The journey so far Route still to travel Darjeeling
Agra Varanasi
Start date: July, 2008 Estimated finish: September, 2009
Kolkata
tea back to London, sharing it with a privileged few on our travels. From Darjeeling we headed south to Kolkata (Calcutta), the capital of British India and the modern country’s cultural hub. J. Thomas, the world’s largest tea auctioneers, sells tea by the tonne at the drop of the hammer and whispers of the infamous East India Company linger on in the air of the city’s docks. The Grand Trunk Road, India’s communication artery since the 1500s, links Kolkata with
Kabul, and we took to it with trepidation, dodging smoke-belching trucks, homicidal drivers and ambling camels.
A taste for Delhi is seldom acquired, but if you can look beyond the chaos, you’ll be rewarded, as we were. Seven cities have stood here, and the Archaeological Survey of India has recorded at least 1,200 historic sites. The Bajaj auto led a road race from the Quwwat-ul Islam Masjid, India’s first
mosque, through nine centuries of history to New Delhi, where the ghosts of Gandhi and Nehru rub shoulders with Bollywood starlets and shopkeepers alike. After Delhi it was on to Lahore. Our Piaggio succumbed to clutch failure a few miles outside of Lahore, The 145 metre San Rafael Falls are though, limping intothe Pakistan a highestbehind in Ecuador police car. It was the first encounter with the Lahori police: dinner, cola and autograph requests followed. Crossing the short distance from India, EAST Holland Herald
•East_Tracing Tea 3pages.indd 37
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12-01-2009 14:03:11
TRAVEL FOR TEA
RIGHT: Uighur traders at Kashgar Market FAR RIGHT: Still a long way to go at the Torugart Pass BELOW: Tea bricks and tea shampoo on sale at Kashgar’s main bazaar
where every other vehicle is a Bajaj, into Pakistan had made us instant celebrities and our autos immediately became superstars. Heading north, we hit the Karakoram Highway, the hardest section of the route. Ancient rock carvings testify to Buddhist travellers spreading their faith to China in the early centuries AD, and it would be their descendants who first cultivated tea in Chinese monasteries. Regular landslides, steep inclines and hairpin bends tested our nerves to their limits; the slightest slip here could result in a free fall of well over 1,000 metres.
At 4,693 metres, the Khunjerab Pass between Pakistan and China is the world’s highest international border crossing. Our little vehicles struggled with the altitude, completing the last few kilometres at just 8 kph. Arrival at the top was a cause for celebration: not only had we completed the journey’s hardest leg but we earned the accolade of being the first to conquer the pass with a threewheeler. Makaibari tea was brewed for on-looking officials and auto-rickshaw history was made. 38
Holland Herald
•East_Tracing Tea 3pages.indd 38
The auto-rickshaws run better downhill, so we arrived in Xinjiang, China, rather speedily. Xinjiang’s highlight is Kashgar, a great Silk Road city. Its Sunday market sells everything from Bactrian camels and stolen Mercedes, to medicinal hedgehogs. More
“Tea bricks were used as edible currency across Central Asia” appetising were the teas. Xinjiang’s first teas came from Beijing by pack animal. Steaming and pressing it into bricks made transportation easier. The further the bricks travelled the more valuable they became; even in the early 20th century, tea bricks were being used as an edible currency across Central Asia. Keen to try spending our new-found currency, we headed for Kyrgyzstan, auto-rickshaw skiing on the way. The Tracing Tea documentary team is still on the road and will continue onwards this spring through Central Asia to Iran, Turkey and Europe. Travel with them on: www.tracingtea.com
EAST
12-01-2009 14:03:28
Photos: Hollandse Hoogte
Eastwood vs Westwood Two polar opposites go head-to-head in an imaginary encounter “You’ve got to ask your- “I was the first person self one question: ‘Do I feel to have a punk rock lucky?’ Well, do ya punk?” hairstyle.” “Sometimes, if you want to see a change for the better, you have to take things into your own hands.”
“We wanted to step off our island and add the colour of the Third World. We got gold cigarette paper and stuck it around our teeth. We really did look like pirates and dressed to look the part.”
“Men must know “It is not possible for their limitations.” a man to be elegant without a touch of femininity.” “Respect your efforts, respect yourself. Self-respect leads to self-discipline. When you have both firmly under your belt, that’s real power.”
Living film legend Clint Eastwood has won five Academy Awards and has been nominated for ten.
“I think dress, hairstyle and make-up are the crucial factors in projecting an attractive persona and give one the chance to enhance one’s best physical features.”
British fashion designer Vivienne Westwood has been reinventing the world’s sense of style since the 1970s. EAST Holland Herald
•East_Eastwood Westwood.indd 41
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12-01-2009 14:00:15
Gadgets
Words: Pip Farquharson
2
1
3
4
1 Shanghai Tang Empress Cushion Cover This witty Eastern delight is 100% silk with velvet backing. From €84 www.shanghaitang.com 2 The Original Teastick With its innovative “scoop-slide-steep” action, this is the ultimate infuser for tea junkies. From €15 www.gamilacompany.com 3 Muji Cardboard Speakers These lightweight, flat-pack speakers can be slipped easily into your luggage and plugged into your personal music player on arrival! From €32 www.muji.eu 4 Origami Sticky Notes Recycle your old sticky notes and indulge in the ancient Japanese art of paper folding (instructions on pad). From €3 www.suck.uk.com1
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Gadgets 1
3
2
4
1 Point East A homage to 46 of the most impressive artistic talents from Asia, including the late Japanese designer Nagi Noda. From €45 www.victionary.com 2 WWF Panda Not only cute and cuddly, part of the sales money for this panda goes to the WWF. From €19 See the Shopping Section 3 Fish Chair East meets West in the creations of Amsterdambased, Indian-born designer Satyendra Pakhalé. From €587 www.satyendra-pakhale.com 4 Ampelmann Courier Bag This trendy messenger bag sports the cult GDR (East Germany) traffic lights man. From €19 www.city-souvenir-shop.de Only the WWF Panda is available on board selected flights. See our Shopping Section at the back for details.
EAST Holland Herald
41
Bahrain TOUCHDOWN
MARKET SPICES
INHALE THE CULTURE OF BAHRAIN
Sites, souks and shisha pipes From the modern skyscrapers of the capital Manama to its deep traditional roots, the
Kingdom of Bahrain is a world of exotic and varied delights. Ancient artefacts tell of the Photo: Krause / LAIF
microstate’s rich history, souks brim with bargains, and delicious Arabic food specialities
BAHRAIN FORT
DON’T MISS
Digging into the past The Bahrain National Museum (Shaikh Hamad Causeway, East Corniche, Manama; +973 1729 8777) tells the country’s fascinating history through various exhibits, most notably artefacts from the ancient civilisation of Dilmun. You can also find out more about the Bahrain Fort, an imposing sight on the edge of the sea in Karbabad Village. Built during the Portuguese occupation in the 1500s, the fort sits atop several layers of civilisation, stretching back to 2300 BC.
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•44_HH_East_Touchdowns.indd 42
abound. A stunning coastline makes it a paradise for water sports enthusiasts, while nature-lovers head for Al Jazair’s coral reefs. WHAT TO SEE
Place to worship
(off the Musakar Highway,
clocks compete with vendors
Featuring the world’s largest
between Riffa and Awali, near
declaring the best bargains in
fibre-glass dome and beautiful
Jebel Dukhan).
town (near Bab Al Bahrain, Manama).
Arabic architecture, the Al Fateh Mosque and Islamic Centre
WHERE TO EAT
can accommodate 7,000
Delicious dishes
HOW TO GET THERE
worshippers at a time. Non-
Bahrain is ideal for sampling
Muslims are welcome (King
Arabic food. Start dinner with
operates three flights a week
Faisal Highway, Juffair, Manama;
mezze, plates of hummus or
direct to Bahrain International
+973 1772 7773). The Al Areen
tabouleh salad, and follow with
Airport from Amsterdam Airport
Wildlife Sanctuary is home to
shawarma (lamb kebab), a shisha
Schiphol.
several Arabian mammals, and
pipe and strong Arabic coffee.
KLM Royal Dutch Airlines
attracts flocks of migratory birds. Appetising regional specialities
Tourist information
View them all on the park’s
are on offer in Manama, Seef
www.bahraintourism.com
guided bus tour (Zallaq Village,
and the Diplomatic Area.
approximately 20 kilometres
Looking for handy, up-to-date
south of Manama; +973 1783
WHERE TO SHOP
travel information? Check out
6116). At 400 years old, the Tree
Bargains galore
KLM’s Destination Guide
of Life has outlived the average
In the Manama Souk the smell
pages – and book your flight –
acacia by 300 years with no
of exotic spices fills the air,
on www.klm.com. Content
visible source of water. It has a
colourful fabrics blow in the
provided by Frommer’s
certain mystique that makes the
breeze, and kitsch singing
Unlimited © 2008,
drive into the desert worthwhile
camels and mosque alarm
Whatsonwhere Limited.
EAST
12-01-2009 13:59:50
Photo: Lengler/LAIF
TOUCHDOWN
THE ENCHANTING OLD TOWN
Tallinn
JOIN THE CLUB
Baltic beauty The Estonian capital offers a tantalising mix of ancient and modern attractions. Raekoja Square, at the heart of the Old Town, is enchanting. Explore the ancient Dominican Monastery Museum, and the centuries-old tunnels under the city. Tallinn’s Soviet past is also remembered with the Linnahall Monument and the Museum of Occupations, while contemporary art and architecture is on show at the Kumu Art Musuem.
Rings a bell
opening in the Old Town.
(www.bocca.ee). African
Almost demolished in 1924
Cocktail bar Déjà Vu (www.
Kitchen (www.africankitchen.
because of its Tsarist history,
dejavu.ee), gay hot spot Club
ee) offers fiery fodder, and
the ornate Orthodox
Angel (www.clubangel.ee) and
garlic flavours abound in
Alexander Nevsky Cathedral
contemporary Stereo Lounge
Balthasar (www.balthasar.ee).
in Toompea was built in 1900
(www.stereolounge.ee) are
and houses 11 bells (www.
popular with young Tallinners.
orthodox.ee). Located in
Nightclubs don’t fill up until
Kardriorg and built in the 18th
after midnight. For the best
operates two daily flights direct
century as a summer retreat for
dance night out, head to
to Tallinn Ulemiste Airport from
Peter the Great, Kadriorg Park
Club Von Überblingen
Amsterdam Airport Schiphol.
and Palace (Weizenbergi 39) is
(www.uberclub.ee).
a treasured Tallinn icon. The
HOW TO GET THERE
KLM Royal Dutch Airlines
Past perfect The Estonian Open Air
www.tourism.tallinn.ee
expansive park, boasting
Savour the flavours
Looking for handy, up-to-date
Classic Estonian food is served
DON’T MISS
Museum in Rocca al Mare
WHERE TO EAT
playgrounds.
HISTORY COMES ALIVE
Tourist information
baroque palace is set in an ponds, pathways and
Photo: Oliver Bolch/Anzenberger
WHAT TO SEE
travel information? Check out
at Kuldse Notsu Kõrts in the
KLM’s Destination Guide
WHERE TO BOOGIE
Old Town (Dunkri 8; +372 628
pages – and book your flight –
Dance the night away
6567). Many restaurants are
on www.klm.com. Content
adding an international flavour
provided by Frommer’s
Tallinn likes to party in style,
to the nation’s cuisine, like the
Unlimited © 2008,
and venues are forever
inventive, Italian Bocca
Whatsonwhere Limited.
offers a view of what life was like in an 18th-century Estonian village. Picturesquely set in a lush park, its 72 farmyards, mills, inns and houses give an authentic picture of daily peasant life (Vabaõhumuuseumi tee 12; +372 654 9100; www.evm.ee/ keel/eng/). EAST Holland Herald
•44_HH_East_Touchdowns.indd 43
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12-01-2009 09:54:46
WALK ACROSS CHARLES BRIDGE...
Photo: Miquel Gonzalez/LAIF
Prague TOUCHDOWN
...FOR SPECTACULAR VIEWS
Czech in
DON’T MISS
Courting attraction
A visit to the largest city in the Czech Republic is a voyage through Europe’s rich history. Meander along the cobbled lanes of Staré Mesto (Old Town) and Malá Strana (Lesser Town), and beyond, to experience both classical past and cosmopolitan present. With its
At the heart of the city,
glittering spires and authentic façades, Prague is steeped in art, architecture and culture.
Prague Castle, in the Royal
No wonder that movie directors, looking for period locations, often make a beeline here.
Palace complex, is currently the seat of government and has housed kings and emperors in the past. Don’t miss St Vitus Cathedral, with its looming towers, pinnacles and buttresses, picturesque Golden Lane, and the labyrinthine gardens full of hidden statues and tunnels spread atop Hradcany
WHAT TO SEE
View from the bridge
(www.hrad.cz).
and beer halls close early,
(www.ladegustation.cz) lovingly
while cocktail bars, such as
empty wallets, while local
Charles Bridge links Staré
Tretters in Staré Mesto
eateries abound in Vinohrady
Mesto and Prague Castle to
(www.tretters.cz), are open
and Letná.
Malá Strana and is a favourite
until the early hours, and clubs
location to take photos against
often past dawn. Check out
the city’s stunning backdrop.
classical sounds at the National
Taking the funicular railway
Theatre (www.narodni-divadlo.
operates five daily flights direct
up Petrín Hill in Malá Strana
cz), or jazz in intimate,
to Prague Ruyzne Airport from
provides spectacular vistas of
backstreet bars.
Amsterdam Airport Schiphol.
HOW TO GET THERE
KLM Royal Dutch Airlines
GOLDEN LANE IS A TREASURE
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Holland Herald
•44_HH_East_Touchdowns.indd 44
Photo: Miquel Gonzalez/LAIF
the city. The Mucha Museum, in Staré Mesto (Panská 7; +420
WHERE TO EAT
Tourist information
221 451400), is dedicated to the
For all tastes
Prague Information Service;
great artist Alphonse Mucha,
Prague’s dining scene has finally
and houses some of his best
entered the gourmet realm, but
work. Check out also his
do try local specialities such as
Looking for handy, up-to-date
stained-glass window in St
gulaš (goulash) and duck with
travel information? Check out
Vitus Cathedral.
cabbage plus the myriad beer
KLM’s Destination Guide
snacks available. Prices tend to
pages – and book your flight –
WHERE TO BOOGIE
be higher in Staré Mesto and
on www.klm.com. Content
No small beer
Malá Strana, where luminaries
provided by Frommer’s
Prague has some of the world’s
such as La Degustation
Unlimited © 2008,
best beer (pivo). Local pubs
Bohême Bourgeoise
Whatsonwhere Limited.
www.prague-info.cz
EAST
12-01-2009 09:55:02
Photo: iStockphoto
TOUCHDOWN
New York
THAT SKYLINE...
Take a bite Bold, brassy, big and beautiful, the jewel of the USA’s East Coast is simply irresistible. Manhattan has world-class museums in Midtown, chic shopping on Fifth Avenue and bohemian cool in SoHo, Greenwich and East Villages. Don’t forget the boroughs Brooklyn, The Bronx, Staten Island and SHINE A LIGHT FOR NYC
Queens either, for even more tasty chunks of the Big Apple.
WHAT TO SEE
WHERE TO SHOP
HOW TO GET THERE
Top attractions From the Rockefeller Center’s
Designs on the city
operates three daily flights
70th floor, Top of the Rock
Visitors adore New York’s
direct to New York John F.
(www.topoftherocknyc.com)
heavily discounted, designer
Kennedy Airport from
gives awesome panoramic,
clothes shops like Century 21
Amsterdam Airport Schiphol.
360°-views of Manhattan’s
(www.c21stores.com). Fifth
KLM’s US partner Northwest
DON’T MISS
KLM Royal Dutch Airlines
Avenue is home to mega-
Airlines also operates one daily
department store Macy’s (www.
direct flight from Amsterdam to
Central Terminal (www.
macys.com) and ultra-
Newark Liberty International
grandcentralterminal.com) and
fashionable shoes at Jimmy
Airport.
Downtown has crowded
Choo (www.jimmychoo.com).
Canal Street in Chinatown.
In bohemian Greenwich
Tourist information
On the Upper East Side, locals
Village, discover young
New York City Tourism;
rollerblade through Central
designers at The Market NY
www.nyctourist.com
Park, browse art at the white-
and unconventional sounds in
spiralled Guggenheim (www.
Other Music (www.othermusic.
Looking for handy, up-to-date
guggenheim.org) or heritage at
com). Try SoHo for boutique
travel information? Check out
the Jewish Museum (www.
chic or join the throng at Hell’s
KLM’s Destination Guide
jewishmuseum.org). Walk over
Kitchen Flea Market (39th
pages – and book your flight –
the Brooklyn Bridge to see
Street (between 9th & 10th
on www.klm.com. Content
Egyptian statues at the
Avenues) and haggle for a
provided by Frommer’s
Brooklyn Museum (www.
Buddha’s head, or a pair of
Unlimited © 2008,
brooklynmuseum.org).
antique diamante earrings.
Whatsonwhere Limited.
The Museum of Modern Art’s spacious and skylit Manhattan galleries contain the world’s finest collection of 20th-century art. After browsing Léger’s oils, Giacometti’s sculpture and Schiele’s drawings, you can watch a classic movie in the Roy and Niuta Titus Theatres (11 West 53 Street, between Fifth and Sixth Avenues; +1 212 7089400; www.moma.org).
Photo: MoMA
skyscrapers. Midtown is home to the ornate Grand
MoMA moments
ROOMS WITH A VIEW
EAST Holland Herald
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12-01-2009 09:55:21
TOUCHDOWN
Beijing
WELCOME TO BEIJING
History meets modernism The capital of the People’s Republic of China is dynamic and crowded, enigmatic and extreme. From its distant dynastic past to explosive modern growth, the energy in Beijing is fuelled by a cosmopolitan mix of locals and expats. Many of its top attractions are clustered around the centre. To the north-east is the Dashanzi art district with hundreds of galleries, while the enormous Summer Palace is in the north-west. Chaoyang district in the east is the A PLACE FOR YOUNG AND OLD
place to find shops, bars and restaurants. WHAT TO SEE
DON’T MISS
Paradise on earth
City in a city The Palace Museum is housed in the former residences of the Ming (1368-1644) and Qing (1644-1911) dynasties. Popularly called The Forbidden City, it is still arguably China’s most important and spectacular tourist sight, covering a vast area of 720,000 square metres. The collections comprise nearly a million art treasures (www.dpm.org.cn; +86 10 65132255).
district to the east of the city.
Lake in the centre, is full of
The Temple of Heaven is the
Here you will find places like
funky boutiques.
biggest temple in China, set in
Green T. House (www.green-t-
a tranquil 273-hectare park
house.com), and Mare Nostrum
(Yongdingmen Donjie,
(Vantone Centre 6a,
Chongwenmen district; +86 10
Chaoyangmenwai Dajie, 2nd
operates two flights a day on
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Holland Herald
•44_HH_East_Touchdowns.indd 46
KLM Royal Dutch Airlines
67028866). Beijing Zoo is
Floor Commercial Zone; +86 10
Saturdays, Tuesdays and
known for its outstanding
59070088). Closer to the centre,
Thursdays and one flight a day
giant panda enclosure and rare
in Dongcheng district, is Beijing
on Fridays, Sundays, Mondays
golden monkeys (Xizhimenwei
duck stalwart Made In China
and Wednesdays to Beijing
Dajie 137, Haidian district; +86
(Grand Hyatt Hotel, Dong
International Airport from
10 68314411; www.beijingzoo.
Chang’an Jie 1; +86 10 65109608).
Amsterdam Airport Schiphol.
com). Cycle China organises bike tours which take in the
WHERE TO SHOP
Tourist information
old neighbourhoods of
Antiques and boutiques
China National Tourist Office;
Photo: Guiziou Franck/Hemis/LAIF
Dongcheng (Jingshan Dongjie
HIDDEN IN THE FORBIDDEN CITY
HOW TO GET THERE
www.cnta.com
12, Dongcheng district;
Chaoyang district has huge
+86 10 64025653; www.
markets, with Ya Show selling
Looking for handy, up-to-date
cyclechina.com).
cheap clothes, and Panjiayuan
travel information? Check out
selling a bizarre range of knick-
KLM’s Destination Guide
WHERE TO EAT
knacks and antiques. In the
pages – and book your flight –
Duck into Dongcheng
west of the city, are Financial
on www.klm.com. Content
Street and the high-class
provided by Frommer’s
Many of the city’s best
Seasons Place Mall.
Unlimited © 2008,
restaurants are in Chaoyang
Nanluoguxiang, near Houhai
Whatsonwhere Limited.
EAST
13-01-2009 08:38:57
SHARE A CAB IN THE CITY CENTRE
Riches for everyone
DON’T MISS
Whether it’s shopping, eating, sightseeing or nightclubbing – Thailand’s capital has it all. Restaurants along Sukhumvit Road serve Thai delicacies, while ornate palaces regale in Rattanakosin. Or get up early to watch morning t’ai chi in Lumpini Park, and cross the river to Bang Kra Jao to bike through Bangkok’s wilderness. WHAT TO SEE
A royal display
WHERE TO SHOP
Bag a bargain
French at Le Banyan (www.
The National Museum in
In the cool of the evening, you
le-banyan.com). Street food
Rattanakosin has a vast
can bargain for imitation
snacks, from sticks of satay
collection of Thai artefacts,
designer bags and watches in
chicken to steaming bowls of
including royal regalia and
the Pat Pong Night Market in
noodles, are widely available.
exquisite mother-of-pearl inlay
Silom. Real designer labels can
work. Buildings devoted to royal
be purchased in Siam Paragon,
cremation are also open (www.
one of many chic shopping malls
thailandmuseum.com). The
in Pathumwan. Craft-lovers
operates one daily direct flight
National Museum of Royal
should head for Chatuchak
to Bangkok Suvarnabhumi
Barges, in Bangkok Noi, houses
Weekend Market where Thai
International Airport from
eight magnificently decorated
silk and other indigenous goods
Amsterdam Airport Schiphol.
boats, each requiring 50 rowers
are for sale.
(www.thailandmuseum.com).
HOW TO GET THERE
KLM Royal Dutch Airlines
Tourist information www.
When the barges are used in a
WHERE TO EAT
river procession, it is a
Choose a dish
Bangkok
Photo: Katja Hoffmann/LAIF
RECLINING BUDDHA IN WAT PHO
Romantic rendezvous Bangrak means “District of Love” and, on February 14, this neighbourhood is a magnet for amorous Thai couples (even if St Valentine’s Day is an imported Western concept). Countless hotels, restaurants and nightlife venues in the area celebrate romance with promotions and parties and the country’s highest concentration of couples register their marriages at the District Office. It’s a goodnatured scrum, as hundreds of brides and grooms, many in elaborate costume, declare their betrothal in public.
tourismthailand.co.uk
spectacular sight. Founded in
Sukhumvit Road’s bewildering
Looking for handy, up-to-date
the 17th century, Wat Pho in
selection of restaurants includes
travel information? Check out
Rattanakosin is Bangkok’s
stylish Thai food at Baan
KLM’s new Destination Guide
oldest and largest temple. It is
Khanitha (www.baan-khanitha.
pages – and book your flight –
home to the impressive
com), northern Indian dishes at
on www.klm.com. Content
Reclining Buddha, 46 metres
Rang Mahal on the 26th floor
provided by Frommer’s
long and 15 metres high (www.
of the Rembrandt Hotel (http://
Unlimited © 2008,
watpho.com).
hotel.rembrandtbkk.com), and
Whatsonwhen Limited.
Photo: ANP
Photo: iStockphoto
TOUCHDOWN
FROM THE HEART
EAST Holland Herald
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12-01-2009 09:55:59
Holland UPDATE
PRIMAVERA ART & ANTIQUES FAIR February 25 to March 1 Old, modern and contemporary art and antiques to die for at this huge fair. Ahoy, Ahoyweg 10, Rotterdam; +31 23 5428880;
MOTORBEURS UTRECHT February 26 to March 1 This vast fair is a must for motorbike fanatics! Jaarbeurs Utrecht, Jaarbeursplein 6, Utrecht; +31 30 2955911; www.motorbeursutrecht.nl
EXHIBITIONS
THE QUINTESSENCE OF QUILTING
Take cover An extraordinary display of antique and contemporary quilts and patchwork, showing the diversity and ingenuity of quilting, from hand-painted chintz,
JAN JANSEN AND SWIP
My Beautiful Curls
Fong Leng: The Dragon (1980)
www.salonprimavera.nl
STOLK February 7 to August 30 Two internationally renowned designers of shoes and graphics, respectively.
18th-century silk gowns, and even shoes made in 1740. Divided into six
Museum Het Valkhof, Kelfkensbos 59,
themes – history, technique, form, application, material and emotion – the
Nijmegen; +31 24 3608805;
exhibition explores the fabric’s development, from traditional, functional
www.museumhetvalkhof.nl
blanket to contemporary art object. QUILTS: ART WITH A Q Until March 29; Fries Museum, Turfmarkt 11, Leeuwarden; +31 58
XXTH CENTURY Until March 1
2555500; www.friesmuseum.nl
The impact of events such as the Wall Street Crash and the Russian Revolution on modern and contemporary art. Includes work by
YOU LEAVE ME BEFORE I LEAVE YOU
Omniversum, President Kennedylaan 5, The
Picasso, Mondrian, Van Doesburg, Toorop
Hague; +31 70 3073456; www.filmvangogh.com
and Lewitt.
February 3 to March 26
Gemeentemuseum, Stadhouderslaan 41,
TIS Theater’s foray on stage is a ‘movement
ABN AMRO WORLD TENNIS
The Hague; +31 70 338 1111;
theatre piece’ set to Schubert’s Winterreise
TOURNAMENT February 9-15
www.gemeentemuseum.nl
and Schumann’s Frauenliebe und -leben.
Rafael Nadal, Andy Murray and other major
Performances take place across The
players are set to appear at this prestigious
MAN RAY: UNCONCERNED BUT NOT
Netherlands. www.tistheater.nl
men’s indoor tennis tournament.
INDIFFERENT Until April 19 A substantial overview of
ART ROTTERDAM February 5-8
(NL only); www.abnamrowtt.nl
Fresh new talent and the
Noire et Blanche
Ahoy, Ahoyweg 10, Rotterdam; 0900 300 1250
the work of Man Ray (18901976) from his personal
latest developments in
CARNIVAL February 22-24
contemporary art abound at
Maastricht’s infamous carnival takes place in
this superb art fair.
the historic heart of the Dutch city.
Stadhouderslaan 43, The Hague; +31 70 3381144;
Cruise Terminal,
www.vvvmaastricht.nl
www.fotomuseumdenhaag.nl
estate. Fotomuseum,
Wilhelminakade, Rotterdam; +31 30 2410011;
HOLLAND FLOWERS FESTIVAL
www.artrotterdam.nl
GIGS
February 25-March 1
Saxon February 3, 013 (Tilburg)
VAN GOGH: BRUSH WITH GENIUS
With spring on the way, this horticultural
Danko Jones February 24, WATT
From February 9
heaven offers inspiration for gardens, patios
(Rotterdam)
A vivid and compelling film (in IMAX format)
and balconies everywhere.
Pink February 28, March 1 Ahoy
which traces the Dutch artist’s life from his
The Greenery, Centrale Markt 5, Zwaagdijk-
(Rotterdam)
first canvases at the age of 27, to his death
Oost; +31 228 511644;
in 1890.
www.hollandflowersfestival.nl
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•48_HH_East_Updates.indd 48
Info and tickets: www.livenation.nl
Man Ray photo: © Man Ray Trust c/0 Pictoright Amsterdam
EVENTS
EAST
12-01-2009 09:58:10
Amsterdam UPDATE
Detail: Starry Night Over The Rhône (1988, Musée d’Orsay)
American history in the second half of the
VINCENT TWINKLES AT ‘HIS’ MUSEUM
20th century. Foam, Keizersgracht 609; +31 20 5516500; www.foam.nl
HOLY INSPIRATION Until April 19 Religion and spirituality in modern art explored. De Nieuwe Kerk, Dam; +31 20 6386909; www.nieuwekerk.nl
RESTAURANT MOMO Perfectly infusing the flavours and colours of the Far East with Western style, this
Starry, starry night…
glamorous new addition to the city takes its
Vincent van Gogh was habitually fascinated by the moods conjured up by the evening and night. This exhibition is the first to be devoted to twilight and nocturnal works by the artist, themes which occur throughout his oeuvre. Famous paintings from international collections include The Starry Night (MoMA), Eugène Boch (Musée d’Orsay) and The Potato Eaters (Van Gogh Museum).
name from the Japanese for “peach” and “blossom” (among other meanings). Pop in for a coffee and pastry or a light lunch – or share a veritable feast of pan-Asian cuisine and sublime cocktails in the evening. Hobbemastraat 1; +31 20 6717474; www.momo-amsterdam.nl
VAN GOGH AND THE COLOURS OF THE NIGHT February 13 to June 7; Van Gogh Museum, Paulus Potterstraat 7; +31 20 5705200; www.vangoghmuseum.nl
GIGS Marlena Shaw February 4, Paradiso
ESTRELLA MORENTE February 15
Pussycat Dolls February 9,
The highly-acclaimed, Granada-born
Heineken Music Hall
23, 26
flamenco singer who sang the title song of
The Buzzcocks February 11, Paradiso
De Nederlandse Opera
Pedro Almodovar’s 2006 film Volver.
Kaiser Chiefs February 16,
perform Bellini’s last work.
Muziekgebouw aan ‘t IJ, Piet Heinkade 1;
Heineken Music Hall
Stage design (left) by Es
+31 20 7882000; www.muziekgebouw.nl
Kings of Leon February 21,
I PURITANI February 4, 8, 11, 15, 17, 20,
Devlin.
Heineken Music Hall
Muziektheater, Amstel 3; +31 20 6255455;
THE CLERKS’ GROUP February 21
The Sisters of Mercy February 24,
www.muziektheater.nl
This exceptional Renaissance vocal music
Paradiso
group – who formed at Oxford University in
WEBSITES
GISELLE
1992 – perform Ockeghem’s Missa
February 10, 12, 13, 14, 18, 19, 21, 22, 25, 28
Prolationum and Bach’s Die Kunst der Fuge.
www.expatica.com
The popular and quintessentially romantic
Concertgebouw, Concertgebouwplein 2-6;
Inside information for expats
ballet, interpreted by Het Nationale Ballet.
+31 20 6718345; www.concertgebouw.nl
www.specialbite.com Cool and comprehensive restaurant reviews
Muziektheater, Amstel 3; +31 20 6255455;
EXHIBITIONS
www.muziektheater.nl
RICHARD AVEDON: PHOTOGRAPHS February 14-22 The latest trends in interior design, fashion, health and beauty and leisure time.
Self-portrait, 1980
HOUSEHOLD FAIR
www.underwateramsterdam.com Events and info galore
1946-2004
www.amsterdam.info
February 13 to May 13
Useful tourist information
The first major retrospective
www.lastminuteticketshop.nl
devoted to the work of this
Half-price tickets to events
influential New York fashion
RAI, Europaplein 22; +31 20 5491212;
and portrait photographer, since his death in
REMEMBER! This copy of Holland Herald is yours to
www.huishoudbeurs.nl
2004. Around 200 images encapsulate
take off the plane.
EAST Holland Herald
•48_HH_East_Updates.indd 49
Household Fair photo: RAI. Richard Avedon photo: © 2008 The Richard Avedon Foundation
Chaka Khan February 6, Paradiso
EVENTS
49
12-01-2009 13:51:38
Kung fu fighting Long, long ago...
Animal attraction
Although kung fu originally referred to any skill cultivated through long and hard work, generally the term now refers to any form of Chinese martial art, of which there are many. What they have in common is a focus on spiritual and physical strength and agility. They can be traced back more than 4,000 years, originating as selfdefence and military techniques.
Many forms of kung fu are based on fighting techniques used by animals such as monkeys, tigers, snakes and eagles. One of the best-known styles is the Praying Mantis, dating back to the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644). Buddhist monk Wang Lang invented the system after seeing a praying mantis beat a bigger cicada. He studied the insect and incorporated its strikes into his own style.
Lean & mean Actor and martial arts cult icon Bruce Lee brought kung fu to the mainstream in the West, especially after his 1973 film Enter the Dragon. He took up martial arts to protect himself from school bullies and later taught his own form of kung fu, called Jun Fan Jeet Kune Do (Bruce’s Way of Intercepting the Fist). Some 25,000 fans attended his Hong Kong funeral after his unexpected death at the age of 30. A reaction to aspirin was cited as a possible cause of death, although there is also a theory that he was killed by the fabled kung fu move “Touch of Death”.
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Holland Herald EAST
Photos: Corbis, DreamWorks Animation, Getty Images, Hollandse Hoogte Words: Annemarie Hoeve
A beginner’s guide to an age-old oriental art
MARTIAL ART
Shaolin fame
Pandamonium! P andamonium!
Kung fu was taught at Shaolin temples from around 620 AD, so monks could protect the temples’ riches. Their fame as a warrior elite spread, and wealthy families sent their sons and daughters there to master their arts. It is believed that before students were allowed to graduate and leave, they had to complete 18 gruelling tests. Legend has it that the last one entailed lifting a hot cauldron with bare arms so the pattern on its sides would be burned into the skin as a lasting reminder. Today, Shaolin kung fu is world-famous, attracting students from all over the globe. The cauldron is no longer in use.
DrreamWorks’ 2008 comedy K DreamWorks’ Kung Fu u Panda introduced martial arts to o the world of animation in what would wo ould prove to be a smash hit, h totalling box to otalling $60 million at the b office weekend. It of ffice in its opening weeken took to ook a team of 300 people to t budget produce and a $130 million b but nevertheless turned out to rake in a hefty profit, generating over $630 million worldwide.
One-hit wonder
Gangly but lethal
Remember that 1974 disco hit K Kung Fu Fighting by Carl Douglas and Vivian V Hawke? Originally it was meant as a B-side and was recorded in the last ten minutes of studio time. The Jamaican-born singer reportedly reported came up with the idea after seeing ttwo children in London doing kung fu moves on the street. The song ended up on the A-side and sold ove over nine million copies.
In Quentin Tarantino’s blockbuster film Kill Bill Vol. 1, Uma Thurman dons a yellow tracksuit highly reminiscent of Bruce Lee’s outfit in his unfinished film Game of Death, to play a deadly female assassin and kung fu expert. The actress spent three months getting to grips with kung fu. Her physique proved quite a handicap: “My body type is the opposite of all the people who created these arts. They have a low centre of gravity; they’re compact. Then there’s me. I’m like 5 foot 11, all arms and legs, with a 2-foot neck,” she explained.
EAST Holland Herald
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51
13-01-2009 08:39:53
Photo contest
WOUTER VELTHUIS: MOAI STATUES ON EASTER ISLAND
See the world! How does it work?
Don’t be late…
There’s a new theme every three months.
Entries for the Landscapes category must
At the end of the fourth quarter (March
be received by April 3, 2009. See our
2009), KLM will award the Grand Prize to the
website below for submission details.
If you provide the year’s best shot, you’ll be globetrotting before you can say “where did I put my passport?”
What can you win?
overall winner.
Feeling inspired? What theme?
Check out other beautiful shots from
For January, February and March 2009, the
previous winners at:
theme is Landscapes.
www.hollandherald.nl
THE GRAND PRIZE A round-the-world ticket for the annual, overall winner CONTEST RULES • Photographs larger than 10x15cm cannot be accepted • Photographs will not be returned • Holland Herald, KLM and the publishers, MediaPartners Group, accept no responsibility for lost material • Copyright clearance and permission of subjects are the responsibility of the photographers. KLM and MediaPartners Group acquire the rights for future use of the images. • The competition is open to readers of Holland Herald who are 18 years of age or older on the date of entry, and who have flown with KLM during the same period as the theme category • Entrants for the Grand Prize will be notified as soon as possible after the closing date of the theme category • Employees of KLM and MediaPartners Group, participating promotional agencies, contributors to Holland Herald, and the families of any of the above are not eligible to enter this competition • The judges’ decisions are final • The Grand Prize cannot be exchanged for cash.
ANDERS HAALAND AANO: BAOBAB TREES IN MADAGASCAR
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•52_HH_Future_Photocomp.indd 52
EAST
13-01-2009 09:23:47
KLM NEWS
Travellers Check NEWS AND INFORMATION FOR PASSENGERS
1925 An Indian passenger next to a Fokker FVIIa, equipped with heated cabin and the luxury of an onboard toilet.
Photo: KLM / MAI
contents Behind the scenes KLM news People & planet Flying Blue news KLM partners
54 55 57 59 60
www.klm.com The fleet KLM route maps Schiphol, hub gates Fit for flying
61 62 64 71 77
Holland Herald
•53_HH_TC_2_2009_cover.indd 53
TRAVELLERS CHECK
53
13-01-2009 08:41:59
KLM BEHIND THE SCENES
For your travelling pleasure and relaxation Passenger comfort has come a long way since the days when the height of inflight luxury was a thick woollen blanket and a hot water bottle! A series of retrofits for KLM’s intercontinental fleet is almost complete. The last McDonnell Douglas MD-11 has just been treated to a make-over, featuring, among other things, a ‘nose to
PREPARING FOR A TWO-WEEK RETROFIT
tail’ Audio-Video-On-Demand system, stateof-the-art World Business Class seats and
to schedule two weeks for each plane to
To keep the time that the plane is on the
improved Economy Class seating.
be out of the sky, Marketing & Brand has to
ground to an absolute minimum, there are
provide input for the look and feel of things
three shifts of around 20 specialists
Huge logistical feat
like the new seats, inflight entertainment
working 24 hours per day. “As planned,
The coordination for such a project is a
(IFE) system and carpets, and Inflight
each plane took around two weeks for
huge logistical challenge, which starts
Services - Cabin Crew division - instructed
the complete retrofit. Keeping on schedule
around two years before the planes even
on the new system for the purser
is vital. Any unplanned delay will cause a
enter the hangar. Despite this, Project
workstation. And this isn’t even half of it.
knock-on effect which could ultimately
Manager Jacco Hoekstra of KLM Fleet
There’s a separate project team for KLM
affect passengers,” emphasises Jacco.
Services is still smiling as he explains, “so
Engineering & Maintenance to plan and
many different departments have been
prepare the actual hangar space, installation
passengers, with hundreds of hours of
involved. As well as the obvious purchasing
of the various parts, and certification.”
movies, music and games at their
of new parts, the Network department has
“The final outcome is great for
fingertips. In World Business Class, the
“20 specialists work 24 hours per day”
new seats enable you to lie flat and come complete with a massage function.”
The journey continues He continues, “everything is planned on
supports KLM’s philosophy that it’s not
year ago, work was started on a full-scale
just about getting from A to B, but about
prototype set up to test the systems at
‘how’ you get from A to B that matters. “In
every stage of installation. It’s not only a
support of this approach, we will also
KLM requirement; these conformity checks
start the installation of the IFE system in
are an industry standard also demanded by
the Economy Class of our 747s from mid-
the aviation authorities.”
2009 onwards. For this retrofit all
KLM has a team of specialist STAYING AHEAD WITH THE LATEST TECHNOLOGY
54
Holland Herald
It has been a significant investment, but
paper with detailed technical drawings. One
mechanics dedicated to this kind of work.
necessary preparations are well underway,” says Jacco.
TRAVELLERS CHECK
•54_HH_TC_2_2009_Behind the scenes/KLM News.indd 54
13-01-2009 09:40:17
KLM NEWS “Meet like-minded travellers online”
Flavour and passion Last year, 37-year-old Sergio Herman, one of a new generation of experimental chefs in Europe, made headlines by successfully maintaining his
“The air ocean unites all people.” Albert Plesman, KLM’s founding President and CEO from 1919 to 1953.
three Michelin stars at restaurant Oud Sluis, in the Dutch province of Zeeland. Until March this year, Sergio will be bringing his wow factor to our World Business Class meals. The best
90 years later, as we celebrate our
ingredients will receive what he calls the
anniversary, Mr Plesman’s vision continues
‘culinary entertainment’ treatment, to
into the 21st century with the introduction
produce not just a meal but a complete
of our social network, Bluenity.
sensory experience.
Crown comfort Our second renovated Crown Lounge at Amsterdam Schiphol Airport (between Piers E and F) offers 3,600 m2 of luxurious and modern surroundings with complimentary Wi-Fi, 360o views of the airport, a comfort zone with showers, healthy food and beverages, and a Flying Blue service desk, to name just a few of the facilities! Visit www.klm.com for our lounge access policy. WAITING FOR YOUR PLANE JUST GOT EASIER
It’s all about networking
First Prize beauty
Bluenity – the first social network for air transport travellers - is now
or maybe to share a taxi from the airport. To join, simply register your traveller’s
During the 2008 Dutch Customer Media Congress, Holland Herald took first prize for the most beautiful, attention-grabbing and graphically impressive magazine cover of the year.
profile at www.bluenity.com.
Whilst the Legends issue cover (October
available from AIR FRANCE KLM. This free network allows you to exchange travel tips - such as restaurants and accommodation - with other passengers and crew members. In addition, you can contact fellow travellers to meet them during your trip,
2008) was the ultimate winner, we were commended for a consistently high standard throughout the year. We hope you’re as inspired as the judges were! Holland Herald
•54_HH_TC_2_2009_Behind the scenes/KLM News.indd 55
TRAVELLERS CHECK
55
13-01-2009 10:48:05
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For further information visit
www.bose.eu Dutch customers can call ✆ 0800 267 34 44
*Delivery subject to product availability. Price subject to change without notice. Risk-free refers to 30-day trial only. ©2009 Bose Corporation. All rights reserved. Quotes reproduced with permission: Conde Nast Traveller: 2007; Stuff: Dec 06; PC Advisor: 01/2007; The News of the World: 08/2006
BOSE_qc3_210x260_NL_hh.indd 1
1/8/09 9:06:30 AM
KLM PEOPLE & PLANET
Fighting HIV and Aids KLM AirCares sponsors four different children’s charities each year. By contributing resources and communications support we also help to raise awareness for these causes.
DANCE4LIFE HELPS TO FIGHT HIV/AIDS
Shedding kilograms for the environment Atkins’, Slim-Fast, South Beach... You thought you’d seen them all. But now we’ve introduced the KLM ‘aircraft diet’. For KLM, saving a few grams here and there can have a huge impact on lessening CO2 emissions. Multiply this weight saving by several hundred passengers per flight and thousands of flights per year, and you’ve achieved a significant saving in fuel and emissions.
Around half of the HIV infections discovered each day are among young people under 25. Dance4Life offers a
KLM’s weight-reducing diet
unique approach to help prevent HIV/ AIDS worldwide, and has reached
150,000 new, lightweight, soft fleece
Our new disposable cups are not only
almost 500,000 people in 20 countries
blankets used onboard are each around
made from sustainable raw materials for
since its start in 2004.
50 grams lighter – in total, an enormous
The Dance4Life teams connect
weight and CO2 saving. The old blankets
with young people using dance, music,
have been recycled by donating them to
and a language and spirit that inspires
good causes.
+
lower CO2 emissions, but they also weigh less, which means they save fuel.
+
and unites them, breaking down taboos regarding sexuality, and HIV/
+
Replacing our trolley drawers has saved 200 grams per drawer. Take a look
AIDS. Coffee and teapots are made from light-
around and see just how many trolleys
programme in another 14 new countries
weight material saving around 250 grams
are used during the flight and you can
to inspire and educate over 600,000
per pot - several kilograms per flight.
quickly imagine the weight saving!
Dance4Life aims to start the
young people about HIV/AIDS, and mobilise 200,000 new young people to take action to stop the spread of
= Less CO2
the diseases. For further information about Dance4Life, or to donate money and/ or Flying Blue Miles, please visit the
A down-to-earth approach
KLM AirCares website www.aircares.nl
Our achievements don’t just stop in the air, on the ground we’re continuously striving to save
or click on the Flying Blue link at www.
energy in every aspect of our business. Since the early 1990s, we’ve improved the energy
klm.com. To make a donation during
efficiency of our buildings by around 50%. Our latest efforts include a new heating/cooling
this flight, please see the details on
system at our head office. It uses a water pump to take advantage of both warm and cold
the last page of our Inflight Boutique
water sources located some 130 metres underground. Compared to the old system, this eco-
tax-free shopping section.
friendly approach uses around 90% less gas for heating and 30% less electricity for cooling.
Holland Herald
•57_HH_TC_2_2009_People and planet right.indd 57
TRAVELLERS CHECK
57
13-01-2009 09:11:37
22/05/08
15:09
Page 1
ile
s
M
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s
M
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Mil e il e s M l es
s M iles Miles... s Mi le
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RAPO13051_Annonce Prs_210x260
M
M i le s M i l e s M i l e s
M il
es
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sM il e
s M i l es s M ile s Mi l e
es Mil
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Mi
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Exceptional moments for valued customers. Whether you’re traveling to discover new places, enjoy family weekends or on business, it’s essential to make the most of every second. With the benefits that the Flying Blue frequent flyer programme offers, you become a privileged customer, recognized by AIR FRANCE and KLM and every SkyTeam alliance airline.
to explore, a stay in a luxury hotel, or countless other ways to spend your Miles, the choice is yours. As you travel more and more with us, we reward your loyalty by multiplying the services you can enjoy, to make every trip a moment that stands apart.
Thanks to our network of over 900 destinations, every trip is a new opportunity to earn Miles. With over 130 partners worldwide, there are lots of ways to enjoy your Miles. Whether it’s a flight to a destination you’ve always wanted
To sign up, please take a folder out of the racks onboard or ask the cabin crew. You can also sign up online at klm.com or airfrance.com
Photo Credits: Steen Sundland.
Mile s
KLM FLYING BLUE NEWS “Save time queuing with Award Miles”
Indulge yourself Upgrading made easy Our close association with SkyTeam adds a truly global perspective to your Flying Blue membership. Subject to certain conditions, you can now request an
A stunning hotel, in a vibrant city what better way to spend a relaxing weekend? Enjoy the local gastronomy, take in a few sites, or indulge yourself using the spa facilities at one of Flying Blue’s many NH Hoteles partner hotels. Redeem your Award Miles for a break
Award upgrade to the next class of
at participating NH Hotels in popular cities
travel on any international SkyTeam
such as Amsterdam, Budapest, and Venice.
flight! Visit the Flying Blue pages at
For further information and the latest
www.klm.com for further details about
attractive offers, visit the Flying Blue
Award upgrade requests.
pages at www.klm.com. NH HOTELES NHOW MILANO
Beat the queue Flying Blue Platinum, Gold and Silver Elite members travelling in Economy Class from Amsterdam Airport Schiphol to a Schengen destination can now use the priority security check lane, previously reserved for First and Business Class passengers, in Departure Hall 1. Simply present a KLM boarding pass, regardless of the operating airline, to gain access. FLYING BLUE MEMBERS RECEIVE PRIORITY
How to join Flying Blue PHONE ON BOARD In the air, you can still be there. Discover how easy it is to keep in touch with phones on board KLM’s B747-400, B777, MD-11 and Airbus 330 aircraft. • For operation of the wall-mounted phone, see the placard on the wall below the phone. • If you have in-seat entertainment,
Accepted credit cards
Info & Fun in the category Onboard. • Calls cost US$5.90 per 30-second
AIR FRANCE KLM’s loyalty programme, Flying Blue, allows you to earn both Level and Award Miles. Award Miles can be redeemed for flights and other products. Level Miles
increment. There is a minimum charge
count towards a higher membership tier,
of one minute per call.
each offering different benefits such as
• Payment is made by inserting your credit card into the side
your handset also acts as a phone.
of the phone and
See the onscreen instructions under
swiping downwards.
access to airport lounges and extra baggage allowance. To enroll, please take a brochure from the racks on board, ask the cabin crew or visit www.klm.com. Holland Herald
•59_HH_TC_2_2009_Flying blue news.indd 59
TRAVELLERS CHECK
59
12-01-2009 10:42:57
KLM PARTNERS
Our partners, your benefits KLM is a member of SkyTeam, an alliance of 11 airlines and 3 associate airlines. This offers you a
higher membership tier, each offering
largest airline group; together with KLM’s
different benefits such as access to
long-standing US partner, Northwest
airport lounges and extra baggage
Airlines, we guarantee you a perfectly
variety of benefits such as: 905 global
allowance. AIR FRANCE KLM is Europe’s
integrated network.
destinations; access to more lounges worldwide; a coordinated timetable for improved connections; and more opportunities to earn Flying Blue Level and Award Miles. Award Miles can be spent on flights, or with over 100 nonairline partners, such as Marriott and Hertz. Level Miles count towards a
KLM and its main partners Founded: 1926 / Home base: Minneapolis / St. Paul Fleet size: 356 / Passengers: 66 million WWW.NWA.COM Founded: 1919 / Home base: Amsterdam Fleet size: 190* / Passengers: 22 million WWW.KLM.COM * including KLM cityhopper and transavia.com
Founded: 1933 / Home base: Paris Fleet size: 404** / Passengers: 52 million WWW.AIRFRANCE.COM ** including Régional, Britair and Cityjet
Other KLM partners Combined code-share and Flying Blue partners
Flying Blue partners
Code-share partners
You can earn and/or spend Miles with all SkyTeam alliance members and KLM’s Flying Blue partners in Flying Blue, AIR FRANCE KLM’s loyalty program. For detailed information visit www.klm.com or www.airfrance.com. A code-share partner means that even though you have booked a KLM flight number, you may find yourself travelling on a service operated by that partner.
60
Holland Herald
TRAVELLERS CHECK
•60_HH_TC_2_2009_Partners/KLM.com.indd 60
12-01-2009 10:45:32
WWW.KLM.COM “A one-stop shop for all your travel requirements”
Room for more
Up-to-the-minute info With KLM’s flight notification service you’ll find out about any changes to your flight as soon as they happen! Supply a mobile phone number or email address to receive text message or
No need to worry about excess luggage!
cancellations.
You can reserve extra baggage space on
You can also receive boarding alerts
your flights via check-in on
and gate changes for Schiphol. Simply visit www.klm.com and click on “Manage My Booking”.
Photo: Getty Images
email notifications about delays or
www.klm.com. By arranging this online, you not only save time at the airport, you STAY INFORMED BY TEXT MESSAGE
also save 30% on the normal charges levied at the airport check-in desk.
KLM e-services make your travel planning faster, easier
Wanted: extra legroom
and more rewarding than ever.
Perhaps it’s a special occasion, or you
For example, you can relate your
simply want to treat yourself or a loved
travel experiences with a direct,
one? The solution: Economy Class
easy-to-use link with KLM
seating with extra legroom or just two
Customer Support. Via the “Contact
seats in a row.
us” button on the website, your
When checking in via www.klm.com
communication can usually be
these preferred seats can be reserved
handled within five days! KLM
for a small supplement.
offers a full range of services via
Available exclusively using our online
its website www.klm.com.
check-in.
Fly, drive and stay Did you know that, as well as booking flights, you can also make Photo: NH Hotel Constanza, Barcelona
a hotel reservation or rent a car via www.klm.com? KLM works with reliable partners such as Booking.com for hotel reservations, and Avis for car rental. Flying Blue members can earn up to 700 Award Miles per car rental, and are eligible for a free upgrade. RESERVATIONS MADE EASY AT WWW.KLM.COM
Holland Herald
•60_HH_TC_2_2009_Partners/KLM.com.indd 61
TRAVELLERS CHECK
61
13-01-2009 09:12:44
KLM PLANE FACTS Boeing 747-400
1920 May 17: the first KLM flight from London to Amsterdam.
1933 The Fokker F-XVIII Pelican sets a new record for the flight Amsterdam-Jakarta of four days, four hours and 35 minutes.
1934 October: the McDonnell Douglas DC-2 Uiver wins first prize in
22
the handicap section, and second prize
(Combi 17)
overall in the London-Melbourne Air
390,100
428
Race.
(Combi 396,900)
(Combi 280)
1946 KLM launches its scheduled
920
12,900
64.44
35,000 (Combi)
70.67
yes!
Boeing 747-400ER Freighter
service between Amsterdam and New York.
1960
KLM introduces the
McDonnell Douglas DC-8 into its fleet, marking the beginning of the ‘jet age’.
1971 KLM’s first Boeing 747B heralds the start of the ‘wide-body’ age.
4
920
12,900
1989 KLM is the first European
412,800
112,000
70.67
64.44
airline to introduce the new generation 747-400s.
Boeing 777-300ER
2001 KLM is the first European airline to introduce the next generation of 737-900s.
2003-2004 KLM embarks on an extensive fleet renewal programme.
Artwork KLM fleet: Hans Murris, KLM Engineering & Maintenance, SPL/WM
2005 KLM starts adding the first of
2
900
14,200
64.80
351,543
425
73.86
yes!
12 Airbus A330-200 aircraft to its fleet.
2008
KLM’s first two (out of a
total of six) Boeing 777-300ERs are
Boeing 777-200ER
put into operation.
Thanks to its efficient network, its modern fleet and many economical measures, KLM’s performance regarding fuel efficiency is one of the best in Europe. The website www.klm.com/ travel/csr_en gives full information
15
900
13,400
60.90
297,500
327
63.70
yes!
on KLM’s corporate social responsibilty and sustainable air transport activities.
62
Holland Herald
•62_HH_2_2009_PlaneFacts.indd 62
TRAVELLERS CHECK
12-01-2009 10:47:15
How big, how small, how far…?
KLM PLANE FACTS
McDonnell Douglas MD-11
10
880
11,400
51.96
280,300
294
61.21
yes!
Airbus A330-200
Boeing 737-900/800
10
880
10,700
60.30
233,000
251
58.37
yes!
5
850
4,600
35.80
21
850
4,200
35.80
76,900
189
41.91
73,700
171
39.47
Boeing 737-700
3
850
3,600
65,300
129
33.60
Boeing 737-400/300
35.80
13
800
3,600
28.88
10
800
2,850
28.88
62,800
147
36.45
56,900
127
33.40
Embraer 190
2
850
47,790
100
4,500
Fokker 100/70
28.72
36.25
Fokker 50
20
740
2,400
28.08
23
743
2,400
28.08
44,400
103
35.53
38,000
80
30.91
3,500
KEY
SCALE: 1 CM = 6.3 M
NUMBER OF AIRCRAFT
12 20,800
505 50
2,200 25.25
MAX. TAKE-OFF WEIGHT (KG)
TELEPHONE ON BOARD
WINGSPAN (M)
MAX. RANGE (KM)
CRUISING SPEED (KM/H)
LENGTH (M)
MAXIMUM PASSENGERS
MAX. FREIGHT (KG)
29
Fleet data information valid at magazine publication date
Holland Herald
•62_HH_2_2009_PlaneFacts.indd 63
TRAVELLERS CHECK
63
12-01-2009 10:47:28
WESTERGASFABRIEK
KLM NEWS KLM MAPS AMSTERDAM
CENTRAL STATION
VVV AMSTERDAM TOURIST OFFICE
ANNE FRANK HOUSE
STEDELIJK MUSEUM CS BEURS VAN BERLAGE
WESTERKERK
NEMO MUSEUM
VAN PAMPUS ROYAL PALACE NIEUWMARKT MARITIME MUSEUM
DIAMOND CENTER
GASSAN DIAMONDS AMSTERDAM HISTORICAL MUSEUM ZUIDERKERK
REMBRANDT HOUSE WATERLOOPLEIN
FLOWER MARKET
HORTUS BOTANICUS OPERA HOUSE WATERLOOPLEIN JEWISH HISTORICAL MUSEUM
ARTIS
STADSSCHOUWBURG FOAM
KEY
MAGERE BRUG CARRÉ THEATRE WEESPERSTRAAT
TRAMLINE RAILWAY
RIJKSMUSEUM
RED LIGHT DISTRICT
VAN GOGH MUSEUM
MUSEUM DISTRICT JORDAAN HEINEKEN EXPERIENCE
IMPORTANT BUILDING
WIBAUTSTRAAT
RAILWAY STATION
ALBERT CUYP MARKET
CONCERTGEBOUW
METRO STATION ZOO GENERAL ATTRACTION MUSEUM CHURCH THEATRE MARKET
(advertisement)
TOURIST OFFICE
Look at me A Brilliant Choice Nieuwe Uilenburgerstraat 173-175, 1011 LN Amsterdam T 020-6225333 F 020-6246084 E info@gassandiamonds.com I www.gassandiamonds.com
70
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76-77_TC_sep_airhubs-A.indd 76 77 TC sep airh bs A indd 76 •64_HH_TC Maps.indd 70
Rokin 1-5 (Dam Square) 1012 KK Amsterdam, Holland T +31(0)20 6245787 F +31(0)20 6251220 E info@amsterdamdiamondcenter.com I www.amsterdamdiamondcenter.com Open 7 days a week and shopping nights
TRAVELLERS CHECK
10-08-2007 10 08 2007 16 16:12:22 12 22 14-01-2009 17:00:57
SKYTEAM AIRPORT HUB GATES Amsterdam / Schiphol Airport, The Netherlands
B18 B14 B12 B10 B8
Gates B
M7
4 B19 B15 B11 B17 B13 B9
M6
H7
M5
Gates M
C14 to C21 - C26
C12
C16
Gates C
C10
C8
C15 - C18
C6
4
M4 M3
C5
H2
Schiphol Plaza
T2
H1
3
D14 D12 D68
D2 D4 D60 D8 D62 D64
D10 D66
3
6 Lounge 3 4 T9 12
G2
3
Lounge 2
F2
T8
Holland Boulevard E2
D43 D73
3
G7 G9
G4
Lounge 3
G6 G8
F3
T6
F4
E4
Gates G
F5
3 E3
F7 F6
E6
E5
F9
Gates F E8
7
E9
E18
E17
Transfer desk E20
Self-service transfer
Gates E
KLM Crown Lounge
F8
E7
E15
T
3
2 1
D41 D71
D42 D44 D72 D46D74 D48 D76 D52 D78 D54 D82 5 D47 D56 D84 D49 D77 D86 D51 D79 D53 D81 D55 D83 D57 D85 D87
G3 G5
1
2
T5 T4
D3 D5 D59 D7 D61 D63
Gates D
Gates B-C, D 59-87, M
G11-16
8
Lounge 1
Schengen
Gates H
H3
M1
C11
D16 D18 D22 D24 5 D26 D21 D28 D23 D25 D27 D29 D31
H5 H4
4
M2
C7
C9
H6
C4
4 C13
KLM flights arrive at / depart from gates B, C, D, E, F. Air France and Alitalia flights arrive at / depart from gates B and C. Continental, Delta and Korean Air flights arrive at / depart from gate G. Northwest Airlines flights arrive at / depart from gate E. Czech Airlines flights arrive at / depart from gate D. For KLM passengers travelling to Antwerp (Thalys) and Rotterdam (NS): Please ensure you collect your luggage in Amsterdam and change your KLM (e-) ticket for a Thalys/NS ticket at the Netherlands Railways (NS ) desk at Schiphol Plaza (just past immigration).
to B22 - B29
Passengers with access to KLM’s Crown Lounges and who are transferring to European (Schengen) flights are kindly advised to use Crown Lounge 25, located near the Schengen gates behind passport control, when arriving on intercontinental flights.
E19
E22
Top Level Second floor
E24
KLM Crown Lounge
25
Gates D KLM Crown Lounge KLM Crown Lounge
52
41
Paris / Charles De Gaulle Airport Terminal 2, France Delta, Northwest Airlines and AeroMexico flights arrive at / depart from Terminal 2E. Korean Air flights arrive at / depart from Terminal 2C.
KLM and Alitalia flights arrive at / depart from Terminal 2F, gates F21-36. Air France flights arrive at / depart from Terminals 2A, B, C, D. E and F.
Continental flights arrive at / depart from Terminal 2A. Czech Airlines flights arrive at / depart from Terminal 2B.
TERMINAL 2E TERMINAL 2A
TERMINAL 2C C88-C89
C86-C87 C84-C85 C82-C83
C80-C81
T
C90-C91
E91-E96
A50-A51
A48-A49 A46-A47 A44-A45
E51 E76
4
3
4
4
3
F41-F43
T
F56
T
F54-F55
F2
F44-F45
F34
F47
F53
F48
F52
F49
F51
F36 F35
F46
F26
F1
F27
F32 F31
3
3
2
3 3 2
T
T D74 D76
D53-D54 D55-D56
F28
F33
TERMINAL 2F Schengen
F50
E80-E87
T
Thalys/RER/TGV Railway station
3
3
4
T F21-F25
3
D57-D58 D61-D62 D64-D65 D70-D71 D60-D61
D72-D73
B33-34 B31-B32 B21-B22 B23-B24 B26-B27-B28 B29-B30 B25
TERMINAL 2D
F29
TERMINAL 2B
F30
KEY Check-in
A1 Gate Numbers
Self-Service Check-in Passport control / Security check
Baggage Claim 4
Walking distance from point to point (average time in minutes)
T
Transfer desk Air France Lounge Transfer by train
3
Transfer by shuttle 3 outside Customs Area Transfer by shuttle bus inside Customs Area Transfer by shuttle bus inside Customs Area, only between 7:30am and 1:30pm
Holland Herald
•71_Hub Gates.indd 71
A42-A43 A40-A41
T
T
TRAVELLERS CHECK
71
12-01-2009 10:56:44
SKYTEAM AIRPORT HUB GATES Moscow / Sheremetyevo Airport, Russia Most domestic flights arrive at / depart from Terminal 1. KLM, Air France, CSA, Alitalia, Korean Air and Delta flights arrive at / depart from Terminal 2. Classic Lounge
TERMINAL 1
7 8
9
11
13
6
1415 16
12
17
5
TERMINAL 2
18 19
4 3
20
2
21
1
Mexico City / Lic. Benito Juárez International Airport, Mexico
1 4 5
3
2
7
2
3
T
8
4
1
1
4
6
10
11
12
14
1
3
4 13
2
15
16
17
18
29
1 28
4
1
T
30
36
1
31 21
19
22
23
24
25
26
34
27 32 33
9
20
TERMINAL 1
60 61 72
35
KLM, Air France and Northwest Airlines flights arrive at / depart from Terminal 1. Delta, Continental and AeroMexico flights arrive at / depart from Terminal 2. Salón Premier
59
58
57
56
71
73
69 74
55
67 70
65 68
53
3
54 52
63
5 66 64
4 1
TERMINAL 2
KEY Check-in Self-Service Check-in Passport control / Security check
72
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•71_Hub Gates.indd 72
A1 Gate Numbers T
Transfer by shuttle bus
Transfer desk Baggage Claim
Transfer by train 4
Walking distance from point to point (average time in minutes)
TRAVELLERS CHECK
12-01-2009 10:57:08
SKYTEAM AIRPORT HUB GATES Milan / Malpensa Airport, Italy Satellite A serves arrivals at / departures from all Schengen countries. Airlines on this pier are KLM, Air France and Alitalia.
TERMINAL 1
5 5
10
5
5
Satellite B serves arrivals at / departures from all non-Schengen countries. Airlines on this pier are Delta and Continental.
5
VIP Lounge
Satellite A
Satellite B
Rome / Fiumicino Airport, Italy KLM, Air France and Alitalia flights arrive at / depart from Terminal B. Delta, Continental and Northwest Airlines flights arrive at / depart from Terminal C.
5
VIP Lounge
10
TERMINAL A 5
TERMINAL C
5
5
TERMINAL B
Satellite
Prague Airport, Czech Republic Terminal 1, pier A (gates A1-A8) and pier B (gates B1-B9) serve arrivals at / departures from all nonSchengen countries. Airlines on these piers are Delta, Aeroflot, Kenya Airways and Czech Airlines. T
T
A3
A1 A2
A4
A5 A6
A7 A8
Gates A
T C1 C14
TERMINAL 1
B1 B10
TERMINAL 2
B3 B19
B2 B11 B5 B13
C3 C15
C4-C5 C17
C6 C16
B4 B18
B6 B14 B7 B15
C2 C12-C13
C8 C19 B8-B9 B16-B17
Gates B
C9 C21
Gates C
C7 C18
Lounge C10-C11 C20
Holland Herald
•71_Hub Gates.indd 73
Terminal 2, pier C (gates C1-C21) serves arrivals at / departures from all Schengen countries. Airlines on this pier are KLM, Air France, Alitalia and Czech Airlines.
TRAVELLERS CHECK
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12-01-2009 11:00:20
SKYTEAM AIRPORT HUB GATES Minneapolis / Saint Paul International Airport, USA
B1 B3 B5 B7 B9 B11 B13 B15
LINDBERGH TERMINAL B Concourse D Concourse
D4
B2 B4 B6 B8 B10 B12 B14 B16
C Concourse D5
D3 D2 D1
C5 D6
C1
C3
C4
C7 C6
C8
C9
C10
C11
C14 C13 C12
C2
C22 C15 C17 C19 C21 C24 C26 C20 C16 C18 C23 C25 C27
A Concourse A1
A5
A3 A4
A2
A7 A6
A9 A8
A11 A13 A10 A12 A14
E4 E9 E5 E3
E7
E1
E Concourse (Lower level) F Concourse F5 F9
WorldClub Facility
F1 F3
F7
F11 F13 F15 F16 F14
First floor
International flights arrive at / depart from gates G1 to G9. Continental and Delta flights arrive at / depart from Concourse E. KLM flights arrive at / depart from Concourse G. Northwest Airlines flights arrive at / depart from all concourses.
F2 F6 F10
G22 G21
F4
F8
G9
G1
G10
F12 G3 G2
G5 G4
G7 G6
G8
G11 G13 G12
G15 G14 G16
G17 G19 G18 G20
G Concourse
New York / John F Kennedy Airport, USA TERMINAL 8
TERMINAL 7
TERMINAL 6
TERMINAL 9
KLM, Northwest Airlines, Continental, Continental Express and Czech Airlines flights arrive at / depart from Terminal 4. Air France, AeroMexico, Aeroflot, Alitalia, and Korean Air flights arrive at / depart from Terminal 1. Delta flights arrive at / depart from Terminal 3.
TERMINAL 5
TERMINAL 1
TERMINAL 4
TERMINAL 2
TERMINAL 3
Newark Liberty International Airport, New York, USA 136 137 138 139 128
135 134 133 132 131
A1
130
125 126 127 124 123 122
121 120
TERMINAL A 23 24 25
TERMINAL C
20
A2
102 104A 104B 106 108A 110A 108B 110B112A 112B 101 114A 103A 114B 103B 105 107A 107B 109 111 115A 113A 115B 113B
28 27
26A 26B
70
TERMINAL B
72 71 90
91
73
A3
92
94
74 93 80
82
B1
81
84
B2
B3
95
97 99
83
86
85 88
96 98
75
KLM, Air France, Delta, Czech Airlines, Northwest Airlines, Continental and Alitalia flights arrive at / depart from Terminal B. Continental (from / to Atlanta, Boston, Chicago, Dallas and Washington D.C.) flights arrive at / depart from Terminal A. Continental (from / to London Heathrow) flights arrive at / depart from Terminal B. Continental and Continental Express flights arrive at / depart from Terminal C. Presidents Club
87
WorldClub Facility
74
Holland Herald
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TRAVELLERS CHECK
12-01-2009 11:00:26
SKYTEAM AIRPORT HUB GATES Atlanta / Hartsfield-Jackson Intercontinental Airport, USA
B36
NORTH
C36
C35
A34
A33
B34
B33
C34
C33
D36
D35
T14
A32
A31
B32
B31
C32
C31
D34
D33
A30
A29
B30
B29
C30
C29
D32
D31
A28
A27
B28
B27
C28
C27
A26
A25
B26
B25
C26
C25
T12 T11 A24 T10
A23
B24
B23
D30
D29
D28
D27
D26
D25
C17
D24
D23
C15A
D22
D21
C15
D16
D15
C11
D14
D13
D12
D11
D10
D9
C24
C21
A22
A21
B22
B21
C20
A20
A19
B20
B19
C18A
T8
A18
A17
B18
B17
C18
T7
A16
A15
B16
B15
C16
A14
A13
B14
B13
C14
A12
A11
B12
B11
C12
A10
A9
B10
B9
C10
C7
A8
A7
B8
B7
C8A
C5
A6
A5
B6
B5
C8
C3
T2
A4
A3
B4
B3
C6
T1
A2
A1
B2
B1
C4
C9
E31
E30
E31A E29
E28
E27
E26
E14 E16 E18
E12 E15 E17 E10
T4
D8
D7
D6
D5
C2
D4
D3
C1
D2
D1
Crown Rooms (Delta Airlines)
E11
C7A
T5
T3
E33 E32
C23
T9
T6
SOUTH
E34 E36 E35
T15
T13
TERMINAL T
D38
KLM, Air France, AeroMexico and Korean Air flights arrive at / depart from Terminal E. Continental, Continental Express and Northwest Airlines flights arrive at / depart from Terminal D. Delta flights arrive at / depart from Terminal A, B, C, D, E and T.
E8
E9
E6
Presidents Club
E7
E4
E7A E5 E2 E1 E3
TERMINAL A
TERMINAL B
TERMINAL C
TERMINAL D
TERMINAL E
Houston / George Bush Intercontinental Airport, USA TERMINAL A North Concourse
TERMINAL B North Concourse
TERMINAL C North Concourse
C18
TERMINAL D North Concourse
C19 C17
KLM, Air France, AeroMexico flights arrive at / depart from Terminal D. Northwest Airlines flights arrive at / depart from Terminal B. Delta flights arrive at / depart from Terminal A. Continental Connection flights arrive at / depart from Terminal A. Continental Express flights arrive at / depart from Terminal B. Continental flights arrive at / depart from Terminal C, D and E.
C20 B79 B79A
A14
A15
A12
A11
A10
B81 A9 B81A
B80
A1
A2
C16
B86 B85A B77 B77A
C21 B85
C15
B87 C22
B84A B84B B84C
B76 B76A
C14
B88
A7
C26
C25
C24
C30
C31
C32
D6 D6A
D5
C23
B83 B83A
A8
D1
D2
D4 D3 D4A
C43
C44
C45
D7
D8
D9
D10 D11 D12
T
C27
B67
B68
B72
B60
B64
E24
C29 B69
B71A B70
B61
B71
B63 C33
E10A E10B
E1
B62 B62A
E12
E11
E14
E23
C34 C42 C35 C41 C36
TERMINAL A South Concourse
TERMINAL B South Concourse
E2
E9
E15A-E15B
E3
E8
E16
E21
E7A-E7B
E17
E20A-E20B
E4A-E4B
TERMINAL C C37 South Concourse C38 C39
C40
TERMINAL E E18A South Concourse
E22
E6
E5A E5B
Presidents Club
E19 E18B
Detroit / Metropolitan Wayne County Airport, USA B20 B18 B16 B12 B10 B8
B6
B4
B2
C2
C4
C6 C8 C10 C12 C14 C16 C18 C20 C22 C24 C26 C28 C30 C32 C34 C36 C38 C40
McNAMARA TERMINAL
KLM, Air France and Northwest Airlines flights arrive at / depart from Concourse A.
C43 B21 B19 B15 B11 B7
B5
B3
B1
C1
C3
C5
C7
C9 C11 C15 C17 C19 C21 C23 C25 C27 C29 C31 C33 C35 C37 C39 C41
Concourse B
Concourse C Tunnel
A6
A8
A10
A4
A72 A12
A18
A20
A24
A28
A30
A34
A36
A38
A40
A46
A50
A54
A56
A60
A64
A66
A68
A74
A76 A78
A70
A2
A77
A1
A75 A3
A5
A7
A9
A11
A15
A17
A19
A21
A23
A25
A27
A29
A31
A33
A35 A41
Concourse A south
A43
A45
A47
A49
A51
A53
A55
A57
A59
A61
A63
A65
A67
A69
A71
Delta, Continental and Northwest Airlines flights arrive at / depart from Concourse B and C.
A73
WorldClub Facility
Concourse A north
KEY Check-in Self-Service Check-in Passport control / Security check
A1 Gate Numbers T
Transfer by shuttle bus
Transfer desk Baggage Claim
Transfer by train 4
Holland Herald
•71_Hub Gates.indd 75
Walking distance from point to point (average time in minutes)
TRAVELLERS CHECK
75
12-01-2009 11:00:34
SKYTEAM AIRPORT HUB GATES Tokyo / Narita International Airport, Japan
Concourse C C87
C85
C83
KLM, Air France, AeroMexico, Delta, Continental, Korean Air, Northwest Airlines and Alitalia flights arrive at / depart from Terminal 1.
Concourse D C81
D91
D88
D93
D95
D97
WorldClub Facility
D99
T
D86
D98 C84
C82
D92
D94
D96
E80
TERMINAL 2 Concourse B B74
B73
B72
Concourse A B71
E60
T
A61
A62
A63
58
A64
57 56
14 15
Satellite 1
12
55
11A 11B
54 51
53
52
T 16
17
18
TERMINAL 1
22
21
T
Satellite 2
23
24
47
32 28A 25 2F
26
27
31
34
33
38
36
35
37
46 45 44
41
42
43
Seoul / Incheon Airport, South Korea
3
2
KLM, Air France, Korean Air, Northwest Airlines and Delta flights arrive at / depart from this airport. 1
50 49
6 7
Airline Lounge
48 47
8
T 9
46 10
45 43
11
T 25
29 26
12
42
T 27
28
30 14
41 24
15
16
31
40
39
32
23
17
38 22
18 19
20
33
21
37 34
35
36
KEY Check-in Self-Service Check-in Passport control / Security check
76
Holland Herald
•71_Hub Gates.indd 76
A1 Gate Numbers T
Transfer by shuttle bus
Transfer desk Baggage Claim
Transfer by train 4
Walking distance from point to point (average time in minutes)
TRAVELLERS CHECK
12-01-2009 11:00:43
KLM FIT FOR FLYING
Our handy hints can help you to stay feeling great both during and after the flight. Exercises should be performed slowly with steady, even breathing 10 TIMES
15 TIMES
30 TIMES
5 TIMES
15 TIMES
10 TIMES
Feet
Ankles
Knees
Shoulders
Legs
Back and arms
With your heels on the floor, stretch your toes upwards. Then keep your toes on the floor, and stretching your heel upwards.
Rotate your foot first in one direction and then the other.
Raise your leg, tensing the muscles of your thigh.
With your hands on your thighs, rotate your shoulders in a circular motion.
Bend forward slightly. Wrap your hands around your knee and raise it to your chest. Hold for 15 seconds.
Place both feet flat on the ground and hold in your stomach. Bend forward, moving your hands down your legs.
Relax whilst flying
During the flight
Reducing jetlag
Statistics show that flying is much safer
Ear pain? Pinch your nose shut,
Start adjusting your body clock to
than many situations in our daily lives
close your mouth and swallow or
the time zone of your destination the
The crew in control of the plane are
blow out against your closed mouth.
night before departure by going to
highly trained and experienced
Alternatively, chew gum
bed earlier or later
KLM aircraft are thoroughly maintained
Stimulate your circulation by walking
Don’t eat too heavily the night before
and designed to withstand all sorts of
around in the cabin and stretching
you leave, or drink too much coffee or
turbulence
Avoid sitting with your legs crossed
alcohol
Try to relax – breathe in deeply through
as this restricts circulation
Eat protein-rich meals at times that
your nose, hold for three seconds and
Taking your shoes off might be
are normal for your new time zone
exhale slowly
more comfortable
At your destination, take light exercise,
KLM partner, VALK Foundation can offer
Drink plenty of water and not too
such as a walk
further advice. Visit www.valk.org
much alcohol, tea or coffee
Spend at least 30 minutes in daylight
HOUSE RULES All electronic devices with an antenna must be switched off completely throughout the flight. Mobile
Electronic equipment without an antenna, such as CD players,
Drinks are served
laptops or electronic games,
passengers occupying their assigned seats.
phones may be used
during cruise flight and ground-stop.
on board the aircraft
At all other times, please switch off
as long as the aircraft
and stow your personal
bar. Passengers are not permitted to
doors are open
electronic equipment if
drink alcoholic beverages brought
(unless communicated
the ‘Fasten Seat Belt’
on board with them.
otherwise by flight/
sign is on.
cabin crew).
may be used
one at a time to
For safety reasons, the purser may close the
Smoking on KLM flights is strictly forbidden at all times.
Holland Herald
•77_HH_2_2009_FitForFlying.indd 77
TRAVELLERS CHECK
77
12-01-2009 11:59:36
EU AIRPORTS
Hand baggage rules at EU airports To increase passenger safety, security rules for hand luggage are in place for all flights, in accordance with European Union regulations
Airport shopping in the EU Within the European Union,
Carrying liquids and gels in your hand baggage
liquids and gels that you purchase after passing through passport control, or on board the aircraft
When passing through security control, you will be required to present liquids and
will be packaged and sealed for
gels separately. Please follow the guidelines below.
you, together with the receipt. The unbroken seal is valid for
18-20 cm
24 hours.
Airport shopping outside the EU If you buy liquids or gels at a 20-22 cm
non-EU airport and change planes at an EU airport, your purchases will be confiscated at the EU airport security check. This can also happen for purchases you make on board an aircraft operated by an airline from a non-EU country. For further information visit www.klm.com
The plastic bag
Liquids, gels, pastes, lotions and
may not exceed
aerosols are not permitted in
Animal products
1 litre in volume
containers bigger than 100ml
To prevent the spread of animal diseases, you are prohibited from entering the EU with meat, meat
For use only during the flight, you may also take on board: Special diet food
•78_HH_1_2009_EU Airports.indd 78
permitted on arrival from Andorra, the Faroe Islands, Greenland, Iceland,
1 re-sealable
transparant plastic bag
Medication
Holland Herald
Small quantities for personal use are
Only
Baby food
78
products, milk and milk products.
per passenger
Liechtenstein, Norway, San Marino and Switzerland. For further information visit http://europa.eu.int.
TRAVELLERS CHECK
12-01-2009 11:02:39
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Treat your biz to a bonus. Enroll on klm.com and earn free flights with BlueBiz. BlueBiz is KLM’s corporate loyalty program. Sign up now, and your business will be given Blue Credits on every trip. On top of your Flying Blue Miles. You can redeem your Blue Credits for free flights, for business or leisure, for anyone in your company. Not enrolled? You should be. It’s free. Just take a look at our leaflet on board the airplane or visit www.klm.com
310_00_039 WT Adv ENG.indd 1
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Discover how to y through an airport Change planes with ease, speed and comfort without changing terminals at Amsterdam Airport Schiphol.
031001137 Schiphol UK 210x260.indd 1
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