Holland Herald

Holland Herald

Holland Herald OCTOBER 2009 YOUR COPY TO KEEP

THE

party ISSUE PARTY OCTOBER 2009

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At Boeing, we are proud to salute our friends at KLM Royal Dutch Airlines on 90 years of inspired service.

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Holland Herald

party!

Photography: Hollandse Hoogte

This month we celebrate 90 years of KLM Royal Dutch Airlines by talking to CEO and President Peter F. Hartman about the past, present and future of the airline.

We also invite you to let your hair down and take a tour through the party cities of Berlin and Seoul, and discover why it’s in our nature to enjoy a good time in our Boogie Wonderland feature. And much, much more...

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15-09-09 14:08

GREAT COKE TASTE, ZERO SUGAR

IT’S POSSIBLE

DE GEWELDIGE COCA-COLA SMAAK, ZONDER SUIKER ©2009 The Coca-Cola Company. ‘Coca-Cola Zero’ is a registered trademark of The Coca-Cola Company.

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THE PARTY ISSUE

Contents

40

20

28

On the scene Jane Szita takes an in-depth look at the psychology behind our social ways, as well as finding out why the Dutch are such a success on the worldwide party scene

50

90th anniversary

Berlin beats

KLM first took off on October 7, 1919.

It’s 20 years since the fall of the Wall. As

Ninety years on, Holland Herald takes a

Berlin gets set to celebrate, Hannah Cleaver

look some of its highlights and most

takes us on a tour of her city and all the

memorable advertising campaigns

not-to-be missed local hotspots

10 CEO interview A conversation with KLM’s president

18 Facts and figures Bite-sized info

Seoul city The South Korean capital is a gourmet’s dream come true. It’s also a thriving metropolis and a great place to join in the local fun and really let your hair down

26 Festival time Party spots around the globe

34 Out of Africa A tale of terror and tonic

38 48 54 58

Wise words Top quotes from fun folks

Gadgets The coolest gear around

Updates What’s on in The Netherlands

Touchdowns The best city guides

PARTY Holland Herald

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Contents

THE PARTY ISSUE

Holland Herald www.hollandherald.nl Volume 45 Number 10 October 2009 Published by MediaPartners LoyaliteitsCommunicatie

KLM Travellers Check 76 64 83 66 84 68 89 71 90 72 73 Behind the Scenes

Route maps

90th anniversary celebrations

The world at your fingertips

KLM news

Partners

All the latest information

Our companion companies

People & planet

Airport hubs

Nuna 5 makes tracks

Finding your way

Flying Blue news

Fit for flying

Information for frequent flyers

Tips and exercises

KLM entertainment

Baggage rules

Inflight films, games and music

Security rules for EU airports

KLM.com

Get online with our Internet services

74

Plane facts KLM’s fleet in focus

Editor-in-Chief Mike Cooper mikecooper@mediapartners.nl Project Editor Ruth Lindsay Art Director Sven van Pel Desk Editors Brian Jones, Scott Roane Concept Lava, Amsterdam Designer Allan Grotjohann Photo Editor Monique Beers, Sandra de Cocq Traffic Coordinator Simone Snaterse Account Brunhilde Oosterhuis Contributors Daniel Allen, Hannah Cleaver, Matt Farquharson, Pip Farquharson, Liz Farsaci, Christian Jungeblodt, Jose Luis Garcia, Jane Szita, Went & Navarro, Carolyn Ridsdale PUBLISHER MediaPartners Group B.V. Head office (Editorial and Advertising) PO Box 2215, 1180 EE Amstelveen, The Netherlands Tel: +31 20 5473600 www.mediapartners.nl ADVERTISING KLM Media A sales division of MediaPartners.

Giovanni Angiolini, Arno van Grondelle, Marjan van Hal, Cedric-Fabian Hovenburg, Kitty Visser sales@mediapartners.nl Shopping Pages Design and Concept Eline Gambino-Lebens Shopping Photography/Production Lukkien KLM COORDINATION Frederic van Nierop, Anouk Sprangh Lithography by Grafimedia Amsterdam Printed by Roto Smeets Weert, The Netherlands ISSN 0018-3563 Reproduction without written permission is prohibited.

The publisher accepts no responsibility for unsolicited material. The publisher has made every effort to arrange copyright in accordance with existing legislation. Those who feel that rights may apply to them can, in spite of this, contact the publisher.

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Austria D + R Verlagsges. m.b.H. Tel: +43-1-740770, Fax: +43-1-74077888 Benelux KLM Media A sales division of MediaPartners, Tel: +31-20-5473600, Fax: +31-20-6475121 Britain Spafax Airline Network Tel: +44-207-9062001, Fax: +44-207-9062022 Denmark Jungersted og Brostrøm Tel: +45-33-222020, Fax: +45-33-229959 France Lagardère Global Advertising Tel: +33-1-41348115, Fax: +33-141348216 Germany BCN International Tel: +49-89-92 503532, Fax: +49-89-92503401 Hong Kong Emphasis Media Ltd. Tel: +852-25161000, Fax: +852-25647271 Iceland Iceland Review Tel:+354-5127575, Fax: +354-5618646 Ireland Harmonia Ltd. Tel: +353-1-2405300, Fax: +353-1-6619757 Italy Lagardère Global Advertising Tel: +39-02-62694441, Fax: +39-02-62690010 Japan Media Communications Inc. Tel: +81-3-35232600, Fax: +81-3-35232606 Kazakhstan Hand Made LLP Tel: +7272-921848, Fax: +7272-921848 Korea Ahn Graphics Ltd. Tel: +82-2-7664582, Fax: +82-2-7436402 Middle East/Dubai Intermedia Tel: +971-4-3422112, Fax: +971-43421896 Netherlands Antilles Fixt Tel: +599-9-4658822, Fax: +599-9-4658822 Portugal Ilimitada Media Internacional Tel: +35-121-3853545, Fax: +35-121-3883283 Singapore Emphasis Media Ltd. Tel: +65-6-7358681, Fax: +65-6-7335681 Spain GDM Gerencia de Medios Tel: +34-91-5365500, Fax: +34-91-5365555 Sweden/ Norway DG Media Sales AB Tel: +46-8-7970400, Fax: +46-8-213171 Turkey Media Ltd. Tel: +90-212-2755152, Fax: +90-212-2759228 United States Redwood Custom Communications Tel: +1-212-8963843, Fax: +1-212-8963848

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PARTY

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+41 (0) 71-686 33 33 www.strellson.com HOLLAND HERALD KLM 1.10. und 1.12.indd 1

20-08-2009 12:26:41

Enjoy

t- n a op W - -Sh r I e u Th Shop -To p To Sho

ev o -L ndI e a Th Holl ur To ■ Café Amsterdam is the place to be when you feel like a cold glass of beer and a typical Dutch croquette (lounge 3) ■ Nothing screams Holland like Delftware! Find your favourite peace of pottery at Souvenir & Holland Gift Shops (all lounges) ■ Time for Tulips! Flowers in all shapes and sizes at Flowers & Bulbs (all lounges

■ The latest trends and most beautiful brands can be found at Fashion (all lounges)

I- te Th e-Ar v ur o L To

e M axt e el L e ly-R r h T al ou t T To

■ Would you like to be swept away by Dutch masters during your stay? Don’t miss the Rijksmuseum (Holland Boulevard)

■ You can find them everywhere throughout the terminal: the feel-good snooze chairs.

Dream away!

■ Choose from the Schiphol Top Ten list for the best perfumes at Perfumes & Cosmetics (all lounges)

■ Surprise a loved-one with a gift from the Rijksmuseum Gift Shop (Holland Boulevard)

■ Start your trip completely relaxed after a quick chairmassage or aqua-massage (Holland Boulevard)

■ Stylish travellers buy their top style sunglasses at the best prices at Sunglasses (all lounges)

■ Visit the Shirasagi Sushi Bar to experience the true art of sushi rolling (lounge 2)

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■ Would you like to board the airplane feeling completely refreshed? Take a power nap or enjoy a nice rain shower at Yotel (lounge 2)

01-07-2009 15:08:03

your transfer! at Schiphol Airport Once arrived at Amsterdam Airport Schiphol, the unique experience begins. And to make sure you can enjoy your stay carelessly, Schiphol World Avenue created several tours to guide you along the best the airport has to offer.

Here you can take a moment to relax at the spa, enjoy delicious foods and wines, discover the shopping paradise and its special offers, visit the Rijksmuseum, and do lots and lots more! Check out the maps to see all tours.

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01-07-2009 15:09:23

Talking straight

CEO and President Peter F. Hartman discusses the past, present and future of KLM WORDS: MIKE COOPER

How bad is the current crisis for your industry?

“I have been in this business for a number of years (37, ed) and I truly have never seen anything as bad as this. It is incredibly deep.

This is the most serious situation our industry has ever faced. And all members of IATA (International Air Transport Association), which represent 230 airlines in 120 countries have been hit: in freight, in both premium and economy classes.”

How about KLM’s direct competitors?

“Freight has been hit the worst by the crisis, as air cargo is a direct indicator of economic activity, which of course has slumped. AIR FRANCE KLM is a major freight operator and therefore we have suffered greatly by falling demand. Lufthansa is also a major cargo operator and has been similarly hit.

British Airways, to name another peer, has had a lot less trouble with cargo for the simple reason that BA has a much smaller cargo operation. By contrast – when you look at premium classes, first class and business class

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INTERVIEW PETER F. HARTMAN

– and the huge drop in demand for these services, then BA has been hit harder than KLM in that respect, but admittedly our market share was always the smallest in that segment.”

Does the fact that AIR FRANCE and KLM are one company make the crisis a different experience?

“If KLM had had to ride out this storm alone, then the effects would have been considerably more extreme than they have been. The smaller European airlines who have not entered into merger deals have suffered much more than we have.”

When did you see the first signs that things were going wrong?

“We already knew in early 2008 that things were going bad. Our US partner Northwest had landed in terrible weather, and all the signs were that it was not going to get better.

We also have a lot of contacts in China, and signs were not good there either, in spite of the economic boost of the Olympic Games.”

So what did you do?

“AIR FRANCE and KLM both decided to be cautious on growth. That was a strange thing to say at that time, as the airline business had been booming for five years in a row. So much so that the Dutch government imposed a ‘flight tax’ on passengers. In January this year our production levels shrank for the first time.”

How did this manifest itself?

“Flight movements at Amsterdam Airport Schiphol showed an interesting development. At that time, industrywatchers were predicting the number of take-offs and landings at Schiphol to climb from the then level of 440,000 a year up to 460,000 a year. Right now that number is around 390,000 flight movements a year.

That’s back to the levels of the late 1990s.

It’s gone incredibly fast.”

But there was more bad news to come?

“Yes. In the past when the airline industry hit turbulence, it was generally only our industry which was suffering. This time the entire industrial sector is affected. These circumstances mean that people who might lose their jobs in a restructure scenario would find it hard to get work elsewhere. We opted for a different approach. This meant sitting down with KLM’s labour council and talking tough on possible solutions to ride out the storm as a company.”

Did you decide to cut the labour force?

“No. We chose quite a different approach. I had seen situations in the past when you let go of large numbers of workers in a dip. That is a brain drain, you lose valuable expertise.

I wanted a different approach this time. I said openly to the labour council and the unions, that I would do my best to keep the KLM family together, in return for flexibility and solidarity from all staff.”

How did that work exactly?

“The huge fluctuations in demand for freight, the passenger business and technical services were different, and in some areas more severe than others. And we also acquired the remaining 50% of Martinair in January and already owned Transavia. We reached an understanding with staff that keeping the family together was a crossdiscipline programme. Departments with temporary peak production would be supported by others with temporary low production. No more ivory towers within the organisation.”

How did you match supply and demand within the units?

“We ended up with a kind of dating agency across the whole KLM Group to matchmake between KLM, Martinair and Transavia, as well as cargo, technical services and the passenger business. This resulted in a number of workers from freight

“I think we are going to see a new model for the industry” working for technical services and in the passenger business, as cargo was hardest hit.

We also asked pilots to work on the ground when they were flying less, something which in The Netherlands would have been unthinkable some years ago, and is still taboo at other airlines in other countries.”

Wasn’t it very expensive?

“It’s cheaper than having to pay the guy anyway while he sits at home, and at the same time having to pay someone from outside the company to perform the ground tasks in peak hours. ‘Keep the cash in the company’, that was our motto. The newspapers loved the pictures of pilots moving heavy equipment around on the tarmac, but it was a serious initiative and it showed all workers the new attitude at KLM. We also increased capacity at our technical services department by accelerating our upgrade programmes, such as installing new seating and seat-back PARTY Holland Herald

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INTERVIEW PETER F. HARTMAN

“When the chips are down, you see how the quality people shine”

And what about the next ten years, from 90 to 100 years of KLM?

What were the results and how many jobs had to go?

“Between April 2008 and April 2009 we had 1,800 fewer people (Full Time Equivalents) and by next year we will have reduced a total of 3,000 FTEs – that’s roughly 10% of the total KLM workforce. The full reduction of 3,000 comes from not renewing contracts with temporary staff, therefore avoiding any forced redundancies among the staff with indefinite contracts. This is purely down to solidarity and flexibility, and thanks to this approach, the morale of the troops is amazing. And that translates into higher passenger appreciation.”

But passengers have still stayed away…

“Times are bad for everyone. I regularly speak to CEOs from other industries, and they apologise to me, saying they have all had to reduce their travel budgets. I understand that. Everyone’s cutting costs and one of the first things to be cut is travel. Of course it’s a shame for us, but it’s not at all surprising.”

Is KLM still investing at this time?

“Certainly. While we are not expanding the

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fleet, we have accelerated our programme for replacing old aircraft, and we are investing heavily in a number of environmental programmes, including an initiative to generate electricity at Schiphol Airport by recycling all the waste collected from the aircraft cabin after the flight. This is a major development that can be expanded to other airports in the future, as well as being used for the recycling of household waste. We are also active in helping develop alternative fuels. A number of enthusiastic KLM staff initiatives have led to interesting new products, such as solar-powered ladders.

“We have a deal with a US recycling company, which means the metals from used engine parts are recycled and re-used.

We also have a venture with Delft University of Technology and a number of other scientific institutions to co-develop new concepts for more environmentally-friendly aircraft. And in conjunction with a French company and the Indian carmaker Tata we have developed small cars which run on compressed air, so they create no emissions; we use these vehicles at the airport for transport of people and small packages between aircraft.”

This month you commemorate 90 years of KLM history, how does that fit into a crisis?

“We are certainly celebrating, but in a rather Dutch way; we are careful with our money and won’t be spending a lot on our 90th birthday, but we will have a party!”

Does the new influenza A (H1N1) virus represent a threat to KLM?

“No. These types of situations are familiar to us. We have a complete infrastructure through our KLM Health Services department, as well as previous experience with SARS and bird flu. In other words, we are prepared for the situation, and we also advise other companies on what to do should the situation get worse. I am a believer in staying calm and being prepared.”

What does that mean?

“Accurate information on the flu to our cockpit and cabin crew, ground and office staff and extra hygiene measures to prevent possible spreading of the virus. We are alert, but not panicking.”

What have you learned in your two and a half years as CEO?

“Particularly in these times, when the chips are down, you see how the quality people in your organisation shine. Cream rises to the top in times of adversity. This situation has also shown me how incredibly valuable the merger with AIR FRANCE is. There is an old Dutch saying: “When times are hard, you find out who your real friends are.”

And that counts for so much more in these challenging, but very exciting times.”

Photos: Hoving/Hollandse Hoogte; Frank Bonnet

displays. We have also launched our new economy class service, Economy Comfort, which meant moving a number of parts of the aircraft interior. This is also because the passengers are always king and especially in these times, we continue to invest in them.”

“I’m sure that both our brands, AIR FRANCE and KLM, will still be standing strong in the market place. I think we are going to see a new model for the industry.

There will be more demand for leisure products and more people will try to economise on their travel costs. We are addressing this in different ways.”

PARTY

13-09-09 17:59

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Stepping out This funky, paper-shoe concept was created by French-born, Toronto-based designers Mathieu Missiaen and Julien Morin. The pair met in January 2009 and have set up a studio called Le Creativ Sweatshop. They make everything from these party shoes to accessories and interior designs. Missiaen also does a lot of work under the name Ndeur and creates highly sought-after customised high-heel and canvas shoes. Morin formed his own company Make a Paper World in 2007 when he became fascinated by the do-it-yourself culture that was emerging from Japan at that time. www.ndeur.com

PARTY Holland Herald

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Photo: Mathieu Missiaen

27 AGE OF THE DESIGNERS 2009 YEAR THEY FIRST MET

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64 YEARS OF INDONESIAN INDEPENDENCE 17 AUGUST, THE DATE OF CELEBRATIONS We’re not sure just how much fun this party trick is, but at least there is a decent prize at the end of it. These contestants have to climb heavily-greased poles in order to reach the goodies that are hung at the top. They are all taking part in celebrations earlier this year to mark the 64th anniversary of Indonesia’s independence.

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Photo: Yue Yuewei/ZUMA Press/Hollandse Hoogte

Eyes on the prize

PARTY

15-09-09 15:45

PARTY Holland Herald

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Party facts & figures

54 THE PLACE TO BE

The nightclub Studio 54 was famous for its riotous parties in the late 1970s, but one New Year’s Eve the club really outdid itself.

Event planner Robert Isabell had four tonnes of glitter trucked in for the evening. It was spread across the floor and was more than 12 centimetres deep. According to Ian Schrager, one of the club’s

800 metres high

co-owners at the time: “You felt like you were standing on stardust. People got the glitter in their hair, in their socks. You

The world’s largest firework

would see it in people’s homes six months later and you

is the Yonshakudama

knew they had been at Studio 54.”

Shell. The 120-centimetre, 480-kilogram monster is made in Japan by the Katakai

A steal at $35,000

Fireworks company. It reaches

John Belushi was only paid US$35,000 for starring in National

wider than 730 metres. A new

Lampoon’s Animal House. The 1978 ‘frat party comedy’ was made

one is launched each year

on a budget of US$2.7 million. It’s one of the most profitable films

at the Katakai Festival on the

ever made, grossing more then US$140 million, and was directed by

banks of Japan’s longest river,

John Landis – who also directed Michael Jackson’s Thriller video.

the Shinano.

up to 800 metres skywards when lit and its bloom spreads

1.26 million euro

Model Naomi Campbell reportedly spent more than €1.26 million

on her 36th birthday party in 2006. For the three-day event,

which followed different themes each day, including Hip Hop, All White and Brazilian Samba, the supermodel rented out Dubai’s seven-star Burj Al Arab hotel.

58,967 KILOGRAMS OF SWEETNESS The world’s largest birthday cake was served as part of the city of Las Vegas’ centennial celebrations in 2005. The party monstrosity weighed 58,967 kilomgrams and took 500 volunteers a total of 14 hours to construct and decorate. It was covered in 18,000 kilograms of icing.

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13-09-09 17:12

4

Party facts & figures

100 metric tonnes During La Tomatina, held every August in the small Spanish town of Buñol in Valencia, Spain, 100 metric tonnes of over-ripe

Number

tomatoes are thrown around. The festival, which began in 1945, attracts approximately 35,000 visitors each year, all of whom take a very hands-on approach to partying.

Pink’s catchy song Get the Party Started reached number four in the US Billboard Hot 100, although it made the number one slot in Australia and took second place in many European charts. The song was written by former 4 Non Blondes frontwoman Linda Perry, and Kevin Federline – Britney’s ex – was one of the dancers in the video.

AND STILL DANCING

The origin of the classic Martini is unknown, but it was during the 1920s Prohibition that it really became popular.

Gin became the drink of

The world’s longest dance

choice at illegal speakeasies,

party kept participants on

as, unlike Scotch, it could be

their toes for 55 hours. The

made quickly and cheaply. A

Guinness World Record was

classic Martini has 55 millilitres

set in New Delhi, India, in 2004

of gin and 15 millilitres of

by 40 dancers. They managed

dry vermouth, garnished

to beat the previous record of

with an olive - the perfect

52 hours and three minutes.

party companion.

90TH BIRTHDAY OF BAUHAUS As well as being KLM’s 90th birthday, it’s 90 years since the beginning of the revolutionary Bauhaus art movement. German architect Wolter Gropius founded the Bauhaus art school in 1919. His plan was to totally rethink design and to encourage artists and architects to create a more just society with their products and ideas, after what he called the “catastrophe of world history” that followed the end of the First World War. Car maker Citroën is also celebrating its 90th birthday this year.

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Photos: Reinout van den Berg/Hollandse Hoogte; SNAP/Hollandse Hoogte; CSA Plastock/Getty Images

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1920s drinking

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Boogie

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PARTY

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Jane Szita puts on her fancy clothes and searches for the perfect ingredients to get the party started ILLUSTRATIONS: JOSE LUIS GARCIA

wonderland

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13-09-09 17:13

THE ART OF THE PARTY

“People need to go out and let loose more when times are tough”

The secret ingredient What’s the most important factor in making your own party a success? Party organisers from celebrity bash purveyor Peregrine Armstrong-Jones to commercial dance party king Duncan Stutterheim agree – and it’s not the venue, music, décor or drinks. “You need a lively host and hostess with a colourful group of friends,” says Armstrong-Jones. Duncan Stutterheim agrees: “If you’ve got a great crowd, then you can have a great party – even in a poor location.” People, in other words, make a party.

When, earlier this year,

tickets went on sale for the tenth edition of Amsterdam’s Sensation party, organised by Dutch dance entrepreneur Duncan Stutterheim, they sold out in just three hours – not bad for an event with 70,000 tickets. But then, Sensation is a global brand, taking place in 15 different countries, and the Amsterdam edition is the two-day showcase of what may be the world’s biggest party organisation company. Stutterheim’s – and Sensation’s – success underlines The Netherlands’ prominence as a dance party dynamo.

“Logistics, a lot of multi-tasking, delegation – maybe the Dutch have that practical tenacity needed to do it and do it again, but better and better,” says Huub Waagen, another Dutch entrepreneur, who organises the Club Hacienda parties in New Zealand.

Duncan Stutterheim, who still oversees every detail of Sensation’s organisation, from the DJs and laser shows to fireworks and live performances, believes that his country’s success in the area comes down to its small size. “You get a lot of competition here, which is good for standards. We have a high quality level, and as we have a small market, we have to look abroad to grow. It means we have an international approach.”

When it comes to partying itself, however, he doesn’t believe in national borders. “Dance music is a global phenomenon with no language barriers,” he says. “And the Internet and YouTube have had an enormous impact in spreading the word.” The huge scale of Sensation and similar events has a universal appeal, he believes, “because people love the energy of a huge 22

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THE ART OF THE PARTY

party. That’s why we prefer to organise parties in massive arenas – and sometimes, we do compare them to ancient Rome.”

But has the kind of hedonism embodied by dance parties been endangered by hard times?

Some reports have suggested so. Visitor numbers to party capital Ibiza are said to be down.

UK newspapers even announced that Queen Elizabeth had cancelled a lavish party to celebrate her 60th wedding anniversary – allegedly because she thought it inappropriate at a time of crisis. And in December, many corporate giants cut back on their Christmas parties.

Cocktail science How do humans make sense of the party environment? In the 1950s, cognitive scientist Colin Cherry identified the ‘cocktail party effect’ – the useful ability we have to

On the other hand, Robert Lanham, writing in salon.com, spoke for many when

single out one person’s

he described partying his way towards a looming redundancy by “taking a last-hurrah vacation… at a luxury resort that I couldn’t afford in ‘good’ economic times.” Predictably, perhaps, there he found himself surrounded by lots of other people in the same boat. “Grim days have left many of us scrambling to find the escape hatch,” he said. Or, as party organiser Huub Waagen puts it: “People need to go out and let loose more when times are tough.”

Clearly, a minor detail like having no money isn’t necessarily seen as an obstacle to fun – suggesting that the urge to party is a pretty deep-seated one. Celebrations, after all, are found in every human culture and in every historical era. And since the great French sociologist Emile Durkheim first analysed what he called “collective effervescence” around the turn of the last century, many social scientists have believed that celebration is the very foundation of human society and culture.

Noting that communal festive gatherings produced, in all societies, a shared sense of excitement and of transcending the limitations of everyday life, Durkheim believed that parties were the origin of the idea of the sacred. The religious celebrations found in all societies, he argued, use collective energy to reinforce basic cultural values, like a kind of social glue. Parties today tend to serve a similar function – the office party is a reflection of company values, just as the annual Nevada desert festival Burning Man is a cash-free expression of the alternative ethos of the USA’s more radical social groups. In fact, though they might seem to be purely about having fun, all parties fill important social roles, says anthropologist Peter G. Stromberg, author of the book, Caught in Play: How Entertainment Works on You. “These are the same things that our non-human primate ancestors were doing in their social groups ten million years ago,” he says. “Establishing group solidarity, sorting out dominance hierarchies, and arranging mating relationships.”

voice in a roomful of people chatting. Last year, researchers at Heidelberg University in Germany even identified the part of the brain responsible for this function – although exactly how we do it still remains a mystery.

What’s your type?

Chat to someone at a party who seems to be clock watching, and either you need new stories, or you’ve encountered an introvert.

They’re not necessarily shy – they just find social encounters draining and enjoy being alone. That clearly nervous person on the fringes of the room, however, is likely to

Because we are such social creatures, Stromberg adds, we have highly

have a social phobia or

developed imitative instincts, thanks to an advanced system of ‘mirror neurons’ hardwired into our brains. In other words, when we see others having a good time, we have a good time ourselves – making a sort of virtuous circle of excitement. And drums, music and dancing result in ‘physical entertainment’, the elemental motor process of synchronising bodily movements that has been observed even in newborn babies. Deep in our evolutionary history, we are programmed to party.

Some scientists have ascribed the human need for short-term stimulation, such as that provided by parties, to our fundamental tendency to pair bond. Our preference for coupling means that our brains have a heightened sensitivity to excitement, they claim, that leaves

avoidant personality disorder, while those happily in their element are most likely extroverts. As for the dancing on the table type – they might have a histrionic personality disorder that makes them crave attention. Or they’ve just had too much to drink…

PARTY Holland Herald

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13-09-09 17:13

THE E AR A ART T OF THE PARTY

“Our entire economic system relies on a ‘work hard, play hard’ ethic in order to sustain itself”

Shiny happy people

us craving a social high – especially when life finds us single (which may explain why couples turn down more party invitations than others). Yet all these biological imperatives aside, according to Stromberg there’s a more modern reason why we’re all so keen to have a good time: our entire economic system relies on a ‘work hard, play hard’ ethic in order to sustain itself. Working hard may create wealth, but if we only worked, we’d be too busy to be consumers. He says: “Our culture encourages the simultaneous commitment to values of work and values of consumption, even though these two realms of values may be in conflict”. Ideally, we are disciplined, diligent and all that, but we are also self-indulgent and committed to the pursuit of pleasure.”

In other words, we work hard, so that we can party. It’s an ingenious system, even though, as Stromberg explains, it carries the inherent risk that “more and more people are troubled by boredom, and can’t control their craving for arousing experiences.” Which in turn feeds the trend for bigger, better, and more extreme party experiences. No wonder the financial crisis hasn’t stopped people celebrating.

Karl Lagerfeld might have announced a short while ago that “bling is dead,” but Peregrine Armstrong-Jones, founder of prestigious London party organisers Bentley’s Entertainments, begs to differ. “I think if you travel to Monaco and the South of France you will see bling is not dead,” he says. Having organised lavish dos for the Beckhams and Sir Elton John, he knows what he’s talking about. “Parties and banquets have historically been markers in time for important events,” he adds. “They always will be there in our lives.”

The more parties a country enjoys, the happier its

Celebrations are certainly found on every page of human history. Ancient festivals

people. A 2003 World Value

like the original Olympic Games and Rome’s Saturnalia (the distant ancestor of many of our own Christmas customs), were typical in combining ritual with a rollicking good time. In the Middle Ages, the Feast of Fools was a riotous overthrow of all social restraints – with the understanding that, afterwards, everyone would go back to the same rigid hierarchy. Half of the medieval year was occupied by feast days – always, however, with a holy undertone.

It wasn’t until the 18th century that the party in its modern sense of ‘informal socialising’ emerged – but then carefully controlled and limited to a select social group. By the 1940s, however, growing social mobility meant that parties were a means of upping your status – provided you had the right clothes, etiquette and small talk. Then in the 1980s, as the consumer society gathered increasing momentum, another type of party began to emerge, based not on chit-chat but on new kinds of electronic music. The dance party was initially a free, underground phenomenon, but it was soon being professionally organised for profit. Now, of course, it’s a huge global industry – just ask Duncan Stutterheim.

In fact, Sensation – and the dance party in general – has become a texbook example of the experience economy, and a pillar of our ‘work hard, play hard’ culture. “We just ask ourselves, why would people want to buy a ticket?” says Stutterheim. “People want to go out, have a good time, meet people… It’s our job to create these stories for people, give them an experience they’ll remember in 20 years time.” It seems this is a recession-proof service.

Survey of people in 65 nations, published in New Scientist magazine, found the world’s happiest countries to be Puerto Rico and Mexico, with the most optimistic populations found in Nigeria and Mexico. Despite having little material wealth and GDPs that are a fraction of other nations, what they all share is a strong sense of community – and frequent, enthusiastic community celebrations. Puerto Rico alone has 500 public festivals a year.

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PARTY

13-09-09 17:13

Let’s go crazy!

If you feel like spicing up your holidays, head to one of these top parties from around the globe

Burning Man Nevada, USA, September, 2010 Weird and wonderful is probably the best way to describe the Burning Man festival.

For this party, a city - Black Rock City - is built in the middle of the desert, complete with art projects, installations, music and theme camps. Around 50,000 people join in the fun, but be warned, you must bring everything necessary to survive in the desert including food, shelter, water, fuel, and first aid supplies. It’s an experience you’ll either love and embrace, or leave you cursing the day you ever set foot in the Nevada desert.

WWW.BURNINGMAN.COM

Queen’s Day

Notting Hill Carnival London, UK, August 29-30, 2010 Dancing in the street, a colourful parade, amazing sounds and fabulous food, what more could you ask for in a street party?

Watch more than 100 elaborately decorated floats and listen to the sound systems, DJs and bands who play everything from ska, hip-hop, soul and house to traditional Caribbean music. WWW.THENOTTINGHILLCARNIVAL.COM

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Amsterdam, NL, April 30, 2010 It’s free, fun and full of people dressed in orange.

A million revellers pack the streets to watch the impressive parade of canal boats, and along with the carnival atmosphere it’s a great time to find a bargain. It’s the one day of the year when people are allowed to sell their wares out on the streets. Long live the Queen!

WWW.IAMSTERDAM.COM

PARTY

13-09-09 17:14

Fêtes de Bayonne

Glastonbury Festival

Bayonne, France, August, 2010 The most striking thing about this five-day Basque festival are the one million revellers, dressed in the traditional costume of white trousers, white shirt and red scarves, filling the streets. Enjoy everything from folk dancing and concerts to delicious treats from the region. WWW.FETES.BAYONNE.FR

Glastonbury, UK, June, 2010 The music and arts festival has come a long way since it first began in 1970. Back then, farmer Michael Eavis decided to create his own festival with an entry price of £1 – and that included free milk from his farm.

It was a success, with acts such as Marc Bolan and 1,500 attendees. These days, the festival attracts 175,000 revellers and the headline acts are always some of world’s leading bands.

WWW.GLASTONBURYFESTIVALS.CO.UK

The Calgary Stampede Calgary, Canada, July 9-18, 2010 Time to whip out your cowboy boots and hat as you buckle up for a rodeo like no other. The Calgary Stampede is the world’s biggest rodeo, a ten-day event featuring bull riding, calf roping and other such Wild West adventures. It’s known as “the greatest outdoor show on earth”.

Words: Ruth Lindsay. Photos: Yadid Levy/Hollandse Hoogte; Rex Features/Hollandse Hoogte; Herman Wouters/Hollandse Hoogte; James McCauley/Hollandse Hoogte; Larry MacDougal/Hollandse Hoogte

WWW.CALGARYSTAMPEDE.COM

Edinburgh’s Hogmanay Edinburgh, Scotland, December 31, 2009 The weather might not always be the best, but one thing you are guaranteed in Edinburgh on New Year’s Eve is a very fine party. The world-famous event sees visitors from around the globe kissing, hugging, dancing and drinking, against the spectacular backdrop of fireworks and Edinburgh Castle. WWW.EDINBURGHSHOGMANAY.ORG

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13-09-09 17:15

KLM 90TH ANNIVERSARY

90 years of KLM In October 1919, the KLM adventure began. Here, we celebrate 90 years of flight with a timeline of major events and a look back at posters and campaigns from the KLM archive 1928 An early advertisement, which highlighted the much improved flying times that KLM had achieved.

1920 Promoting the very first KLM flights, this poster says: ‘Not a legend, but reality’ and contrasts a ‘brand new method of transport’ with its predecessor, The Flying Dutchman sailing ship.

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KLM 90TH ANNIVERSARY

October 7

1919

KLM is officially launched.

1919 The first KLM logo is designed by architect Dirk Roosenberg, a good friend of KLM’s President, Albert Plesman.

1922 KLM completes its first one million kilometres of air travel.

July 9

1924

KLM flies its first ‘large’ animal from Rotterdam to Paris. The bull, called Nico, was transported in an aeroplane made of canvas that was stretched over a frame.

October 1

1924

First intercontinental flight, from Amsterdam to Batavia (Jakarta, Indonesia). A return ticket cost the equivalent of €20,000.

October 28

1932

The first flight is made with cabin crew. One of the stewards doubles as the flight engineer.

May 21

1946

After the Second World War, KLM is the first European airline to commence a service between America (New York) and Europe (Amsterdam).

1950 First Class passengers are offered Dutch gin served in miniature Delftware houses. The collection is still made and a new house is introduced for each KLM birthday.

May 1

1952

Tourist Class is introduced.

1958 KLM introduces around-theworld flights. They take 89 hours and 20 minutes, and cover a distance of 30,000 kilometres.

A special single is brought out to mark the occasion, The Golden Circle Song.

March

1960

The first jet planes arrive with the introduction of the Douglas DC-8. In 50 years, the plane has evolved from ‘an adventure’ to a comfortable and trusted mode of transport.

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1945 At the end of the Second World War, President Albert Plesman had two priorities: to get operational as quickly as possible and to create as large an awareness as possible. As a result of this, the first KLM advertising department was formed.

PARTY

13-09-09 17:16

KLM 90TH ANNIVERSARY

1961 This poster was made after customer research concluded that KLM should position itself as a modern company with an emphasis on safety and technical know-how rather than luxury and glamour.

1953 The first Lockheed L-1049 Super Constellation, known as Super Connie, was introduced during this period. More than 20 of these aircraft were put to work

by KLM, mostly on North Atlantic and Asian routes.

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13-09-09 17:16

KLM 90TH ANNIVERSARY

January

1966

Introduction of the first Holland Herald. A total of 526 editions have been published, including this one.

July

1975

In 1920, KLM had 12 employees, in 1939 1,900. By July 1975 this figure has grown to 16,766.

1986 KLM is named ‘Airline of the Year’.

November 9

1989

One week after the fall of the Berlin Wall, KLM commences its first service to Dresden in the former DDR.

December

1991

KLM is the first airline in continental Europe to introduce a customer loyalty initiative.

The programme is called ‘Flying Dutchman’.

September

1997

KLM and Northwest Airlines sign a long-term commercial and operational agreement.

1999 KLM is the first airline in the world to achieve the ISO 14001 certificate for its environmental compliance.

May 5

2004

KLM and AIR FRANCE form one group, two airlines and three businesses. This marks the beginning of its journey to become the most successful airline group in Europe.

June

2007

KLM starts a unique partnership with World Wide Fund for Nature in The Netherlands, with concrete agreements to limit CO2 emissions.

KLM is now ‘best-in-class’ for energy efficiency compared to all large international airlines.

November

2008

KLM takes delivery of the first fuel-efficient EMBRAER 190.

2009 KLM AIR FRANCE introduces the digital boarding pass. It can be used with mobile phones, PDAs or BlackBerrys.

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1972 This was the first advertising campaign to actually feature KLM personnel – it says ‘Warm Welcome’. President Geritt van der Wal recognised the importance of quality service and believed that only employees could make a difference to this. The campaign ‘Fly the difference’ was born.

PARTY

13-09-09 17:16

KLM 90TH ANNIVERSARY

1982 New advertising agency PMS was challenged to produce a campaign that provided a strong identity to differentiate KLM from the competition. This was the result.

2000

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The swan was first used in a KLM advertisement in 1991, and appeared in many of its campaigns. The swan represented KLM’s brand values – grace, strength and quality.

2008-2009 KLM introduces a brand new house style along with a new advertising strategy. ‘Journeys of Inspiration’ is the tagline and it’s aimed at letting passengers know just how important their comfort and travel needs are to KLM.

XXX LMN DPN

'SPN EBZ POF IPMJEBZT BSF BMM BCPVU SFTU BOE SFMBYBUJPO

"OE XIFO ZPVS EFQBSUVSF EBUF BSSJWFT XF NBLF TVSF ZPV GFFM SFMBYFE

/PCPEZ VOEFSTUBOET UIJT CFUUFS UIBO ,-. *U±T XIZ XF

BOE DPNGPSUBCMF 'SPN UIF NPNFOU ZPV TUFQ PO CPBSE JU±T UJNF UP TJU

EP FWFSZUIJOH QPTTJCMF UP FOTVSF ZPVS DPNGPSU 8F NBLF JU FBTZ

CBDL TJQ ZPVS ESJOL SFBE ZPVS QBQFS BOE LJDL PGG ZPVS

UP QMBO ZPVS USJQ XJUI PVS XJEF SBOHF PG EFTUJOBUJPOT GBSFT BOE EFQBSUVSF

TIPFT -FU UIF

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IPMJEBZ CFHJO

PARTY Holland Herald

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13-09-09 17:16

Shaken, but not stirred Exclusively written for Holland Herald by John S. Burnett

There are times when we all need to chill out, especially following a particularly difďŹ cult day at work. It was no exception for us, a ragtag bunch of UN relief workers serving in the forsaken port city of Kismayo in southern Somalia.

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PARTY

13-09-09 17:17

A bottle of whisky,

hidden in a box of bottled water, had arrived on the relief flight from Nairobi and, for the first time, the six of us from different UN agencies, three in one compound, and three in another, were going to get together for a long-overdue celebration of survival in a place too dangerous to send peacekeepers to.

The UN had hastily collected us from other missions and sent us into this anarchic land to arrange delivery of emergency supplies to those left stranded by monsoonal floods, a humanitarian disaster that had displaced millions, killed thousands, and forced women and children to seek refuge in trees.

My job was to organise delivery operations at the port, a staging area of gutted, shell-damaged buildings and warehouses.

Down on the wharf, the arrival of a river boat on a flatbed truck was causing a stir among a crowd of expectant labourers, each hoping to be chosen to help offload the craft. It was a rough-looking mob, clad in torn, threadbare clothes. They were not hostile, however, these Nilotic people of long narrow faces, high cheekbones, small mouths, small eyes and strong Roman noses. Many were holding hands, not unusual for Somalis.

I wondered what they were thinking of me, the lone white man in a baseball cap and torn cut-off jeans above my work boots, packing a radio on one side of my belt and a utility knife on the other. I must have looked like some Western gunslinger. Or a telephone repair man.

“Subah wanaqsan!” That was the only Somali I knew. The men laughed, returned the phrase, some even translating in barely decipherable English: “Good morning!” The ice was broken. I began to relax. They appeared to relax.

I climbed onto the flatbed to choose the most fit. I didn’t need more than ten men.

A hundred or so desperate faces looked up to me for selection, jockeying amongst themselves to make eye contact. What did I know? Under a vindictive sun, I pointed at one then another. The squabbling began.

One of the armed guards below, apparently holding some rank in the local clan, pushed his way through, swung round and pointed his rifle at the crowd. Pulling back the cocking lever, he barked something unintelligible and, with the barrel of his gun, pointed at the workers one by one. I couldn’t help but wonder the criteria for selection; possibly membership in his own subclan.

Twenty, ten more than necessary, were selected. The winners laughed and joked among themselves; those rejected skulked off to the side, raised their fists and threatened revenge.

Inch-by-inch, the men slid the heavy boat off the flatbed. I wedged myself between the sweaty Somalis and, with some authority, repeated their cadence: “Koh, laba, sader, HOEK!” One, two, three, HEAVE! The men opposite and next to me grinned broadly as the half-ton boat was eased off the trailer and into the warehouse. We applauded each other on our achievement. “Ficaan, ficaan.” Good, good.

“We were going to get together that evening for a long-overdue celebration”

The boat locked in the warehouse, I got back into the white Land Rover, with the blue UN seal stencilled on the bonnet, for the long trip back to town. An easy day as far as they went in Somalia, still I was ready for our little party. Our small group of relief workers, a disparate group from the USA, UK, Australia, Kenya and The Netherlands had been assembled in Nairobi only days before and tossed into this chaotic land without much preparation or chance to get to know each other.

At the port’s main gate, the militia soldiers stooped to window level to inspect those within the UN rig, returned my thumbs-up and shouted: “Diep maleh!” – no problem – and waved us through.

PARTY Holland Herald

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15-09-09 13:48

WORK HARD PLAY HARD

The last barricade before entering town was more formidable than the others; barbed wire, steel girders and a scattering of heavy artillery casings blocked the road. Despite the barrier, the roadblock this day appeared unmanned.

Harun, my driver, honked impatiently.

A little boy, not more than ten years old, emerged from out of the shadows of the portal of the cement blockhouse and marched towards the car cradling an AK-47, his full-length yellow smock torn at the shoulder exposing his brown baby skin. His clean, round face and his soft eyes displayed that precious naivety of youth – he looked like a nice kid.

With a charming attempt to snarl, he ordered us out of the car. Harun and my guards looked at each other and laughed. A sudden black cloud of anger twisted his little-boy face; his small, dark eyes narrowed with the petulance of a child who was not getting his way. He was not going to be humiliated. And he had a gun.

The child soldier jerked back the stiff cocking spring of his rifle with his small fist; in Somalia, the final, cold metallic clack defines the moment. Although the proud Somalis have hair-trigger tempers, it often does not get this far. When a Somali cocks his gun, however, the talking has usually ended – it is the penultimate act.

An audience began to gather under the tin roof of the guardhouse. Dressed in white robes, men and boys drifted from out of the shadows, dusty apparitions who watched in silence. This was quite a performance and the elders, some on canes, with faces toothless and puckered, impassively observed the youngster’s moves. The boy could feel the audience, and the attention seemed to strengthen his resolve.

The fear of my guards was palpable. Fingers on triggers they lowered their guns toward the mob of indifferent silent ghosts. I shared that fear: There was going to be a shooting here.

Moving my eyes from the boy, I hoped that without my interest the situation would somehow diffuse itself; this was, after all, between Harun, my driver, and the boy – not my problem. I was with the United Nations. I had a good humanitarian reason to be here. The boy probably didn’t even see me in the back, squeezed as I was between my two guards. I slunk deeper into the seat, a little more behind the fuzzy head on my left. The guard sensed my movement and shifted his position, exposing me even more.

The child straightened. Slowly he swung his gun toward me.

I stopped breathing. He looked me up and down with a sneer of inexplicable contempt.

Small dark eyes blazed with anger, focused and locked on mine. Something was getting personal here. He raised his rifle to my face. I became fi xed by his eyes, eyes I could not contact. I sensed that if I looked away he would fire. And there was this cavernous dark hole of the barrel of his gun. Beyond, I was aware of the unfocused image of this boy’s hateful face. Where could a child learn such hatred? The arrogance and the insanity in the child’s eyes told me he was considering shooting. I wondered if it was as easy as it looks. Just squeeze the trigger.

An old man in the crowd, dressed in a dirty white djellaba and a woven Muslim cap, his squinty, sun-beaten face deeply creased, raised his cane and barked in Somali at the boy.

The child momentarily wavered then straightened. Standing firm in a man’s role, he was not going to back down. This was his roadblock.

The old man muttered, hobbled out to the proud little sentry, grabbed him by the ear and hauled him away. The child dragged his big gun behind him.

Shaken, we returned to the compound; never before had I needed a party more desperately than I did that evening.

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Illustrations: Allan Grotjohann

“He looked me up and down with a sneer of inexplicable contempt”

PARTY

13-09-09 17:17

WORKFUTURE HARD PLAY BUSINESS HARD

I joined Andrew, the cheerful young Kenyan who was running airport operations, and Ian, our rather dour security officer and former London cop. Our compound was inside towering fortress walls, ringed with razor wire, a large steel door, and it had a guard post outside. Located next to the property of a local warlord, inside it was an island of some tranquillity. A few days earlier, however, we had awoken to the sound of artillery. Apparently our neighbour, who controlled the city, was sending his greetings to the warlord on the other side of the Green Line, who controlled the airport.

The three of us gathered under the thatched roof of the open-air dining area; serve us a cocktail with a little paper umbrella, add a soft melody from some steel drums and we could have been in some cosy Caribbean hideaway. Tropic birds sang sharply in the early evening. Hyenas howled in the distance. Gunfire echoed on the outside. A bat swooped past just above our heads. The bottle of whisky stood as a solitary sentry in the middle of the table.

“Sierra Sierra, this is Bravo Delta.”

“Go ahead, Bravo Delta,” Ian said into his handheld radio.

“Looks like we won’t make it over there. They are holding us here – more bloody firepower than I’ve seen since Mogadishu – all aimed at our front door. . .”

“OK, good luck. Sierra Sierra out.”

Ian stared at the bottle and shrugged. “OK, might as well start the party.” He cracked open the bottle, poured a couple of fingers and proffered a quote from Kipling: “If we can fi ll the unforgiving minute with 60 seconds worth of distance run…” Then he knocked one back.

Andrew, a lanky white Kenyan whose forefathers were among the earliest British in East Africa, was no stranger to relief work, serving in Mogadishu years earlier. Still I was curious.

“I’ve been meaning to ask, Andrew, what brings you out here?” It had the ring of one prison inmate asking another: What are you in for?

“Money, pure and simple,” he said. “You can’t make this kind of money trying to start a business in Nairobi.”

“What kind of business?”

“Party business.”

“A what?”

“Blowing up balloons, acting like a clown. I was trying to start a party business. Like they have in London. I suppose in America, too. You know, balloons, clowns, party favours – arranging parties.”

“In Nairobi?”

“It is a party town, you know.”

“So why aren’t you still partying?”

“Shifta (a Kenyan term for bandit) broke into my flat, stole all the equipment, the compressors, the helium bottles, even the clown suits.”

“You get hurt?”

“No, but it was very scary.”

“So that’s the end of the party business?”

“Absolutely not! I’ll make some money here and go back and start it right this time. But bloody oath, if I ever see anyone walking the streets of Nairobi dressed as a clown... Bottoms up!”

“Our compound was inside towering fortress walls, ringed with razor wire”

John Burnett works for Maritime & Underwater Security Consultants, London. He is author of Where Soldiers Fear to Tread, At Work in the Fields of Anarchy. www.reliefworker.com PARTY Holland Herald

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Invitation only QUOTES FROM SOME TOP PARTY PEOPLE ILLUSTRATIONS: CAROLYN RIDSDALE

“You’ve got to fight for your right to paaarty.”

The Beastie Boys

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PARTY

13-09-09 17:18

“I don’t know a lot about politics, but I polit can recognise a good party man goo when I see one.” whe

“No, no, no, no darling!

I will not have a surprise party. If it’s going to be a surprise, I want to know about it, alright! Because I want to decide when I’m going to come and what I’m going to wear if I do come, alright?

You can’t expect me to go to any old bloody party, darling.”

Mae We West

Eddy from Absolutely Fabulous

“Like oth other parties of the kind, it was w first silent, then then argumentative, talky, the disputatious, then then disp unintelligible, then unintellig altogether, then inarticulate, altogethe and then drunk. When we reached the last step had reac ladder, it was of this glorious gl difficult to get down again without stumbling.” s

“Spring is nature’s way of saying ‘let’s party’.” y’.”

Robin Williams, actor

Lord Byro Byron

“I’m the type who’d be happy not going anywhere as long as I was sure I know exactly what was happening at the places I wasn’t going to. I’m the type who’d like to sit at home and watch every party that I’m invited to on a monitor in my bedroom.”

“Hear no evil, speak no evil – and you’ll never be invited to a party.”

Oscar Wilde

Andy Warhol

“If I were invited to a dinner party with all my characters, I wouldn’t show up.”

Dr Seuss PARTY Holland Herald

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Partycentral

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15-09-09 13:49

TRAVEL BERLIN

Berlin has become the destination for anyone who wants to party. It’s a city where the rent is cheap, space is abundant and every second person seems to be an artist or a musician sitting in a cool bar. Local resident Hannah Cleaver takes us on an insider’s tour of the German capital PHOTOS: CHRISTIAN JUNGEBLODT

Tempelhof Airport was recently closed to air traffic and is now used as a venue for various events

It is 20 years since the Berlin Wall was pulled down and the city took its fi rst faltering steps to reunification.

When that is celebrated this autumn, many speeches will be made about the progress that has been made, the physical gaps in the city that have been fi lled. The once ghostly no-man’s land that stretched between the Reichstag past the Brandenburg Gate and through Potsdamer Platz, now buzzes with tourists amid the Holocaust Memorial and a bevy of skyscrapers.

Once the Wall was gone, anything became possible in Berlin, and even two decades on there remains an immensely attractive feeling of space and freedom. This is intimately linked to the gaps left by the Wall – and in the East, many missing buildings destroyed in the Second World War – which have not yet been fi lled with shiny new buildings.

A decade ago, the northern part of the ‘death strip’ was turned into a modest park where locals could walk their dogs.

Where so many efforts to escape the East fell short, now, weekends in Mauerpark often resemble a small festival, with busking, sound systems and semi-temporary bars and cafés, and, on Sundays, a huge flea market.

Further south and just over the Schiffahrtskanal (ship-transit canal) which used to mark the East-West Berlin border, Kristian Jarmuschek has become one of the most envied art gallery owners in the city.

His silver, plastic-clad warehouse stands like a UFO amid an industrial wasteland. The area houses the Heidestrasse complex, five modern art galleries and a private collection.

A long, black hall opposite, which is just too smooth to be a warehouse, is home to the world-famous Flick Collection, while the older building at the end of the yard is the Hamburger Bahnhof, home to Germany’s National Contemporary Art Collection.

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TRAVEL BERLIN

“You might see a girl running around with a rubber duck having a play-fight with a teddy bear, but there is no violence here whatsoever, which I find conducive to working” The location of Jarmuschek’s gallery has the glamour and status of being next to two world-class collections and it’s right in the middle of the city – but at the same time it is still undeveloped.

Builders may move in, but his gallery has a guaranteed life of ten years and he’s determined to use them to the full.

“The location is fabulous,” Jarmuschek says, “it is a prime spot – internationally there is nothing that compares. It has a very high kudos, artists like Dennis Oppenheim come here – it is next to the Hamburger Bahnhof, but we show things that are not yet ready to be exhibited there.

“People who come to the museum are, of course, interested in modern art and they come around the corner to us too. We are set back a little bit, so people have to know where to come to find us, that is part of the attraction. We are a hidden treasure, we are not in an obvious place.”

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Kristian Jarmuschek is just one of the many opportunistic Berlin entrepreneurs who have managed to create something vibrant in a space that was once associated with the oppression of the Wall.

The idea of temporary use has

really taken root in Berlin, and has contributed greatly to the scene which gives the city such a buzz. Perhaps the most hyped example of this is the location of the Bread and Butter international fashion trade fair – in the enormous city-centre Tempelhof Airport, which was only recently closed to air traffic.

A less flashy treasure is Tacheles, a once squatted but now legal cultural centre in the nearby Oranienburgerstrasse.

It is the perfect example of a temporary-use project that has become permanent, and is home to artists of all kinds.

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TRAVEL BERLIN

LEFT: The remarkable Badeschiff swimming pool, which floats on the River Spree ABOVE: The river plays a big part in city life

The Jewish History Museum, designed by American architect, Daniel Libeskind

One of the people with a studio in Tacheles is British DJ and house music pioneer A Guy Called Gerald (who really is a guy called Gerald). A veteran of the global music scene, he decided to live in Berlin because of the way it mixes things up.

“Being involved with people is easier here, I can appreciate what they do and they can see what I do. In London, if I was in a building like this it would just be full of musicians, and everyone would keep themselves to themselves,” he says. “Here, I am involved with the theatre, and I am doing an ambient performance with visuals. I don’t think I would be playing music in a theatre if I was somewhere else, it would be too complicated to organise, and too expensive. In other cities you are pushing up against a wall. In New York or London you are fighting for survival.

“Some might grumble about a lack of glamour, but low prices and low-key suit this city. In London, everyone wants to get onto the radio or the big clubs. But in Berlin you have really big DJ names begging to play in new, unknown places. It is freestyle and home-grown here.

“I have never seen a fight in a club here either. You might see a girl running around with a rubber duck having a play-fight with a teddy bear, but there is no violence here whatsoever, which I find conducive to working – peaceful, chilled-out people.”

Back to water

– this time the River Spree – again on the route of the Wall. Köpenickerstrasse is lined with enormous old warehouse buildings. In any other city they would have been turned into executive flats – in Berlin they house an eclectic mix of businesses, from a cheap-rate removals company to Spindler and Klatt, one of the city’s more fashionable restaurant-clubs.

A new arrival is the Sage restaurant, opened this May. It is the latest project of Jack Schröder and his partners, who started the Sage Club, above the Heinrich Heine metro station. During the city’s partition, this was one of the ghost stations – so called because the Western-run trains were not allowed to stop in the East and had to rattle on through.

Shortly after the Wall fell, Jack and his friends opened a nightclub above the station – in rooms which had been used to store fi les belonging to the East German secret service, the Stasi. After the collapse of the East German state, many buildings which had belonged to or were used by the state machinery were suddenly empty – and with no legal certainty over their ownership.

“The history of the city gives it a lot,” says Schröder.

“Which other city was divided and had a system breakdown?

This freed up a lot of ownership questions.

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A 30-metre high sculpture on the River Spree, which has been on display since 1999

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TRAVEL BERLIN

Old and new work in harmony in Berlin

“Our customers are always colourful and mixed – we have punks sitting next to grandmothers” “There are still areas where there is no commercial use of the buildings, and creative people move in there and start doing things. Art and the party scene in Berlin get in there first. As an East Berliner, it is a good feeling, there is a freedom here now that we didn’t have, and didn’t think was possible.”

The fertile mix of people and scenes, which thrives on such freedom, is exemplified by the choice of longerestablished eateries nearby. Around the corner on the bank of the Landwehr canal, the Horvath restaurant combines some of the finest eating to be had in Berlin with a relaxed atmosphere that harks back to the time when it was owned by a philosopher and peopled by bohemians.

“What we want in this place is a mix of locals, artists, film people, the mixture is very important here in the Kreuzberg area,” says owner Edith Berlinger, an Austrian who made Berlin her home more than two decades ago.

Horvath prices are the top end of what is to be found in the area, but as the punks and penniless creative types have grown up and become successful, so they have become more affluent.

Just over the river from this classy restaurant is the punkrock pizzeria Casolare, which organises gigs as well as dinner.

The walls of the restaurant are covered in band posters and scrawled messages from musicians, while the staff have elaborate tattoos and piercings.

Manager Loris Olivier says, “It is a very creative area, and the music works well here. We have a cucina populare, it is for the people. The music is also for the people – for example we had Punk Italia events, where we brought Italian punk music to the locals.

“Our customers are always colourful and mixed – we have punks sitting next to grandmothers.

“Young Italians love coming to Berlin, he says. “Before, it was London or Dublin. There seems to be something in the air. Freedom, liberty, relaxation. It is a big city which has everything, but it is still quiet. You can live a stress-free life here.”

A cluster of clubs along the River Spree has succeeded in taking the heavy techno party vibe from the 1990s, chilling it down and putting it outside in the open air. It is here that we meet Tobias Rapp, whose book Lost and Sound describes and analyses the techno scene in Berlin.

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RIGHT: Fairground rides set up in front of the television tower on Alexanderplatz BELOW: Berlin has creativity on every corner

“You can do whatever you like in Berlin – you don’t have to think about safety and security” He says, “I think it has something to do with the fact that it is all so cheap here, but there is more to the story than that. An historical accident has also played a part. Berlin as a city did not develop as people had expected in the 1990s, it did not boom and grow, people did not flock to live here. There are many empty places in the city and, during the 1990s, the concept of temporary spaces led people to improvise – and now these same people have become more professional. Some have taken over these places.”

Add to this a generation of young party-goers who think little of getting on a cheap fl ight for a weekend away – and you have the Berlin party scene.

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a very liberal place and it’s not so expensive, so people feel relaxed and ready to party.

The future of the riverside area is set to be radically different, with plans for a ‘media’ district of new buildings to house a mix of shops, offices, flats and hotel space. The enormous O2 arena is already fi nished. Many locals are furious that their laid-back, DIY riverbank district, created from nothing, is to disappear and demonstrate regularly to try and sink the idea.

Across the way is the Badeschiff, a remarkable swimming pool set in the river. In the summer it is open-air while in the winter an amazing pod-style roof is fi xed on top to create a surreal venue. Pass the bar and pick a way across the floating platforms to the former barge, fi lled with clean water and

PARTY

13-09-09 17:29

BERLIN

NL

Berlin fact file

Germany France

Berlin Hamburger Bahnhof Reichstag

Alexanderplatz

Additional photography: Juergen Stumpe; Lonely Planet/Image Select

Brandenburg Gate Badeschiff Potsdamer Tempelhof Platz Airport

moored so that the water is at the same level as the river that flows all around it.

As the sun sets, lending colour to the water, the mind can wander, following the view across the river and along towards the centre of town. The television tower on Alexanderplatz blinks and glitters, a huge disco ball on a spike above the city. Two decades after the Wall fell and the dictatorship of communist East Germany collapsed, the spaces created by the lack of freedom and preserved by a lack of money have become the scene of creativity and parties.

Those spaces have been colonised by artists and musicians and transformed into clubs, bars, restaurants and galleries. The next stage in the process – these spaces being replaced by more expensive buildings – is already under way.

One can only hope that no matter how many shiny new buildings are created to help smooth out the wrinkles of undeveloped spaces in Berlin, the creativity of the city will be stubborn enough to maintain its character.

GETTING THERE

KLM operates six daily direct flights (five on Saturdays) to Berlin Tegel Airport from Amsterdam Schiphol Airport.

WHERE TO STAY

Honigmond is a central hotel with classy flair. www.honigmond-berlin.de Arte Luise Art Hotel features

Casolare is where you’ll find

rooms designed by different

punk rock pizzas and music.

artists. www.luise-berlin.com

Grimmstrasse 30.

Propeller Island has an

Sage Restaurant features

insane collection of unique

pan-European food in a funky

rooms, one designed to feel

setting, with its own beach

like being inside a diamond,

bar on the riverbank.

another with a floating bed.

www.sage-restaurant.de

www.propeller-island.com

The Badeschiff is not just a pool, but a complex which also stages gigs and parties. www.arena-berlin.de

WHERE TO EAT AND PLAY

Horvath is a popular top-end restaurant. www.restaurant-horvath.de PARTY Holland Herald

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Gadgets 1

3 2

4

3

5

1 Artecnica Birthday Cards These bloomin’ lovely pop-up cards will certainly put a smile on the recipient’s face. face From €6.50 €6 50 www.mobach-groothandel.nl 2 Happy Birthday Cake Mould Create a cake that really says it all. From €23 www.suck. uk.com 3 Star Pearl Watch The Misaki watch comes complete with 5mm X-treme Lustre pearls. From €139* 4 Santoni Shoes Get the party started with these heels from the Rose Collection. From €475 www.santonishoes.com 5 Balloona Stool Canadian Natalie Kruch tied over 500 (deflated) balloons onto a solid wood stool to create this cute design. From €350 www.umbra.com

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PARTY

*The Misaki Star Pearl Watch is available on board (selected flights). See the Inflight Boutique at the back of the magazine for details.

13-09-09 17:30

Gadgets 1

2

3

4

1 Sushi Pillows The perfect party food has now become the perfect pillow. From €28 www.theoriginalsushipillow.com 2 Xraydio 2 Disc Table Created by printing the X-ray of a DJ console onto glass, this table was desgined by Moroso for the Successful Living Concept from Diesel. From €730 www.diesel.com/furniturefair 3 Beer Mats With 30 different games in each box, you’ll never be bored while sitting at the bar again. From €8 www.suck.uk.com 4 Glow Graffiti Powered with UV light, you can write, stencil and draw pictures to create your very own glowing light show. From €40 www.random-international.com PARTY Holland Herald

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Life and Seoul The South Korean capital is a pulsating city, rich in sights and sounds. Daniel Allen explores this thriving metropolis

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TRAVEL SEOUL

Photography: Daniel Allen; R. Ian Lloyd/Masterfile

LEFT: The recently renovated Cheonggye Stream CLOCKWISE FROM BELOW: Chefs preparing dim sum at the Parkview Restaurant; The Hyundai iPark Building; A dancer performs in the musical Miso at the Chongdong Theater

It’s nearly

Saturday morning, but for the milling crowds of Seoul’s highoctane Hongdae area, Friday is just getting started. Gaggles of über-stylish girls clipclop their way past neon-clad pubs and cafés, while young businessmen wolf down spicy snacks, check their mobile phones and indulge in some last-minute pre-club preening. This may be one of the capital’s hottest nocturnal hangouts, but the emphasis is firmly on urban cool.

“I always come out to Hongdae at the weekend,” says bubbly student Surh YooNah in fluent English. “It’s a great place to relax and meet friends. We usually chill out in a bar for a few hours and then head to a noraebang (karaoke bar). After the singing’s over I might head to a jjimjilbang (traditional Korean sauna).”

As the hedonistic hordes filter down Hongdae’s side streets to their venues of choice, the South Korean capital’s cosmopolitan feel is as palpable as it is infectious. Work hard, play hard seems to be Seoul’s motto, and local residents need little instruction on how to have fun.

“People here love to let their hair down,” says Stephen Revere, founder of Seoul’s popular expat 10 Magazine. “They enjoy eating and drinking together, and frequently follow that up by singing together at a noraebang. Even if they’re terrible singers, they still have the confidence to get up and belt out a tune, and everyone just claps along.”

Seoulites have every reason to be confident. Perhaps better than any other Asian capital, their city manages to balance old and new, East and West, with style and sensitivity. On the back of some spectacular economic growth, Seoul has developed into an affluent, attractive boom town, with bright lights, space-age architecture and streaming traffic all lending it a progressive air. But firmly entrenched cultural practices ensure that nobody loses touch with their roots.

”People here love to let their hair down. They enjoy eating and drinking together”

A large part of that culture revolves around food and drink, and a night on the tiles in Seoul usually begins (or finishes) with a communal meal. As PARTY Holland Herald

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gourmands will discover, this is a city built for dining out and the only problem you’ll have is running out of time to sample everything. Many first-time visitors to Seoul find Korean cuisine a taste sensation which goes way beyond the usual expectations of non-stop kimchi (pickled cabbage). Most restaurants will reduce the chilli content of their food out of respect for less fire-resistant palates, and a multitude of great non-Korean restaurants are on hand to give overspiced digestive systems a welcome break.

For Sang Kim, a PR manager at the National Theater of Korea, nothing beats a meal of galbi, or Korean barbecued meat.

“Galbi is one of Korea’s most popular dishes,” he explains. “Strips of marinated beef or pork are cooked on a charcoal grill at your table. These are then wrapped in a lettuce leaf and dipped in ssamjang, a sauce made of fermented bean curd and red peppers. Wash everything down with a few bottles of local Cass beer and you’re all set for a top evening.”

“People are surprised by the eclectic range of cuisine available in Seoul now,” explains Michael Spavor of the Seoul Tourism Organization. “I recommend visitors mix it up – try some Korean dishes and check out a couple of Western establishments too. A meal at Pierre Gagnaire’s followed by some drinks in the bar next door is one really romantic option. Those with a head for heights can then take the cable car up nearby Nam Mountain (Namsan) and go up the N Seoul Tower for panoramic city views.”

Another Seoul venue that makes a great night out in itself is Noryangjin Market, with over 700 shops selling a cornucopia of marine produce.

“Noryangjin is my favorite location for partying,” says Revere. “First you choose your dinner live from a bubbling tank, and this is then sent to a restaurant of your 52

ABOVE: A street food vendor RIGHT: Spicy seafood salad at Chungdam Ann Sojubang ABOVE RIGHT: Singing the night away at the Soo Noraebang in Hongdae FAR RIGHT: The multicoloured hues of the N Seoul Tower

”People are surprised by the eclectic range of cuisine available in Seoul now” choice for preparation and cooking.

Seafood lovers adore this place.

“On any given night you’ll walk into a smoky, noisy Noryangjin restaurant packed wall-to-wall with people of all ages enjoying a meal,” he continues. “It’s unbeatable for atmosphere. Koreans are so friendly they’ll probably invite you over to share a beer or two, and, if you’re lucky, maybe even some live octopus tentacles.”

“We Koreans love anyone who takes an interest in our country,” explains Surh

Yoo-Nah. “Most younger people speak at least some English, so you’ll find someone who’ll befriend you day or night. This is part of what makes Seoul so special.”

Seoul is divided by the Han River, the languid waters of which are crossed by a multitude of bridges (be sure to witness the spectacular 10,000-nozzle fountain on Banpo Bridge). On the southern side, overlooked by the gleaming contours of the golden 63 Building, lies the ritzy Gangnam District.

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TRAVEL SEOUL

Seoul fact file GETTING THERE

KLM operates five direct flights per weeek to Seoul Incheon Airport, from Amsterdam Schiphol Airport.

WHERE TO STAY

Grand Hyatt Seoul Luxurious, five-star resort set among landscaped gardens on the slopes of Nam Mountain.

“Gangnam is classy with prices to match,” says Revere. “The nightlife, however, is unrivalled. All the beautiful people hang out here, and if you’re looking for the trendiest clubs with the hottest people, this is the place.”

J.J. Mahoney’s Bar in the hotel

One popular Gangnam bar and

of Seoul’s top barbecue locations.

restaurant is the Baekseju Village, which offers a range of more than 20 traditional Korean wines. In a twist on the norm, food is carefully selected to match the alcohol, and given the fact that baekseju (literally ‘100 years wine’) is said to promote longevity, drinkers can indulge in some first-rate liquor and reverse the aging process simultaneously.

Another Gangnam area bar with an innovative take on Korean alcohol is the Chungdam Ann Sojubang, which serves up cocktails made with soju, Korea’s answer to vodka, in hollowed-out fruit. Long nights in Gangnam usually end up in one of the area’s hip nightclubs, such as Club Mass and the Ritz Carlton Hotel’s Club Eden.

Those in search of more highbrow entertainment can stop by Gangnam’s jazz venue Once In A Blue Moon. Or more traditional alternatives include the spectacular music and dance show Miso, put on at the Chongdong Theater, and pansori (Korean opera) at the National Theater of Korea.

From taekwondo classes, amusement parks and baseball batting cages by day to supping, swigging and shaking by night, Seoul has options galore for even the most energy-filled visitor. If you’re dropping in on the city that never sleeps, you might find the plane ride home is the best option for catching a nap.

www.samwongarden.com

basement has regular live music. http://seoul.grand.hyatt.com WHERE TO EAT

Samwon Gardens is one

Pierre Gagnaire is where the eponymous three-star Michelin chef offers exquisitely prepared French fusion dishes. www.pierregagnaire.co.kr Noryangjin Fish Market is a great place to go in the evening to catch this seafood extravaganza at its most colourful. Tel: + 82 2 814 2211.

BARS AND CAFES

Baekseju Village offers a range of specially prepared Korean traditional wines.

Tel: +82 2 595 1003.

Chungdam Ann Sojubang is one of the area’s most happening spots. Tel; +82 2 541 6381.

ADDITIONAL INFO

You can dial 1330 for a 24-hour, bilingual (Korean/English) help service from withing Seoul for tourist information Those outside South Korea should dial +82 2 1330. www.seoulwelcome.com

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Holland UPDATE MICHAEL NYMAN FESTIVAL October 24-31 A festival centred around this celebrated British composer, who will perform with the Noord Nederlands Orkest on October 31.

Various locations, Groningen; www.michaelnymanfestival.nl

© Hilary Hill — Stills by Hill

SPEED MOUSE October 1 to November 25 The ‘masters of microphonic mime’ from Australia, The Umbilical Brothers, with their new show.

Various locations in The GIRLS JUST WANNA HAVE FUN

Netherlands; www.umbilicalbrothers.com

EXHIBITIONS

Let’s get physical

CÉZANNE, PICASSO, MONDRIAN:

The party starts here, as circus and burlesque converge in a tongue-in-cheek, physical theatre show by Australian four-piece LaLa Parlour. Expect acrobatics, contortion, aerial high jinx and whip-cracking prowess from Tigerlil, Neridah, Vella and Kelly, as you inhabit their world of hilariously tortured glamour and dysfunctional showgirls. Performances take place across The Netherlands.

TARNISHED October 5 to November 28; www.ruuddegraaf.nl

A NEW PERSPECTIVE October 17 to January 24, 2010 A fascinating exhibition, tracing the evolution from Impressionism, via Cubism, to Abstraction, through these three revolutionary artists.

GM, Stadhouderslaan 41, The Hague; +31 70 3381111; www.gemeentemuseum.nl

MICHAEL RAEDECKER Until November 1

EVENTS

TRACES October 7 to November 1

The latest works by the internationally-

HOLLAND October 2 to November 20

Expect urban acrobatics in

renowed Dutch artist.

Scapino Ballet Rotterdam perform Ed

this new show by Montreal-

GEM, Stadhouderslaan 43, The Hague;

Wubbe’s work.

based contemporary circus

+31 70 338 1133; www.gem-online.nl

Various locations in The Netherlands;

company, The 7 Fingers.

www.scapinoballet.nl

Various locations in The Netherlands; www.tracesholland.nl

TAKE ROOT October 3

MODERN LIFE: EDWARD HOPPER AND HIS TIME Until January 17, 2010 Eight major paintings by American realist

An annual celebration of American roots

DUTCH DESIGN DOUBLE Until October 11

Edward Hopper (1882-1967).

music, held in the north of the country.

This festival – which takes place in Amsterdam

Kunsthal, Museumpark, Westzeedijk 341,

De Oosterpoort, Trompsingel 27, Groningen; 0900

and Utrecht – celebrates design in various

Rotterdam; +31 10 4400300; www.kunsthal.nl

3001250 (NL only); www.takeroot.nl

manifestations. www.dutchdesigndouble.com

The Wailers October 3, WATT (Rotterdam)

A contemporary art fair with a convivial

DUTCH DESIGN WEEK October 17-25

Tom Jones October 6, Ahoy (Rotterdam)

atmosphere.

Exhibitions, workshops, seminars, lectures,

Björn Again October 8, Oosterpoort

De Anthony Fokker Hangar, Binckhorstlaan 249,

award ceremonies and parties.

(Groningen)

The Hague; www.arti09.nl

Various locations, Eindhoven;

Fleetwood Mac October 15, Ahoy

www.dutchdesignweek.nl

(Rotterdam)

MADAME BUTTERFLY October 7-25 HOLLAND DANCE FESTIVAL

performed by the marvellous

October 28 to November 15

Elton John October 17, Ahoy (Rotterdam)

State Opera of Tatarstan.

Diverse national and international dance

Eros Ramazzotti October 27, 28, Ahoy

Various locations in The

performances and workshops.

(Rotterdam)

Netherlands;

Various locations, The Hague;

www.vdbtheater.com

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Green Day October 16, Ahoy (Rotterdam)

Puccini’s tragic opera

www.hollanddancefestival.com

The Fray October 17, 013 (Tilburg)

Info and tickets: www.livenation.nl

Madame Butterfly. Photo: State Opera of Tatarstan

ARTI09 October 7-11

GIGS

PARTY

13-09-09 17:35

Amsterdam UPDATE museum collections in Oman.

De Nieuwe Kerk, Dam; +31 20 6386909; www.nieuwekerk.nl

VAN GOGH’S LETTERS October 9 to January 3, 2010 Over 120 rarely exhibited letters by and to Vincent van Gogh.

Van Gogh Museum, Paulus Potterstraat 7; +31 20 5705200; www.vangoghmuseum.nl

KLM PAUL HUF AWARD 2009 Until October 25 Work by Leonie Purchas, winner of this prestigious annual photography competition.

Give it a spin This premier electronic music conference and festival affords the chance to watch some of the world’s

Photo: Tilllate.com

best deejays as they spin in clubs

Foam, Keizersgracht 609; +31 20 5516500; www.foam.nl

RESTAURANT DE ORANJERIE Expect friendly service and delicious organic sandwiches, soup, pasta dishes and pastries

and bars across the city. During the

at this verdant city oasis, located in one of the

day, professionals meet up with

world’s oldest botanical gardens.

business partners to discuss the

Hortus Botanicus, Plantage Middenlaan 2a;

scene’s latest music and trends.

+31 20 6259021; www.hortus-botanicus.nl

AMSTERDAM DANCE EVENT October 21-24; www.amsterdam-dance-event.nl DANCING THE LIGHT FANTASTIC

GIGS Lil’ Wayne October 6, Heineken Music Hall

EVENTS

new media festival for children.

ZZ Top October 8, Heineken Music Hall

BFFE October 3-5

Westergasfabriek, Haarlemmerweg 8-10; +31 20

The Cult October 11, Heineken Music Hall

The Buddhist Film Festival Europe offers a

6205230; www.cinekid.nl

Maxïmo Park October 15, Paradiso

unique platform for ‘spiritual quality movies with a high contemplative content’.

Lily Allen October 25, Heineken Music Hall AMSTERDAM MARATHON October 18

Various locations; www.ibff-europe.eu

Music Hall

distance runners race

Kasabian October 27, Paradiso

WOONBEURS Until October 4

through the city.

A huge fair featuring the latest trends in

Start/Finish: Olympic Stadium,

home and interior design.

RAI, Europaplein 22; +31 20 5491212;

Massive Attack October 27, Heineken

Amateur and world-class

Olympisch Stadion 21; www.amsterdammarathon.nl

WEBSITES www.dutchnews.nl Daily Dutch news in English

AAF (AFFORDABLE ART FAIR)

Cool and comprehensive restaurant reviews

October 29 to November 1

www.underwateramsterdam.com

A dance classic, performed

Works at this contemporary art fair sell from

Events and info galore

by Het Nationale Ballet.

€100 to €5,000.

www.amsterdam.info

Het Muziektheater, Amstel 3;

Westergasfabriek, Haarlemmerweg 8-10; +31 20

Useful tourist information

+31 20 6255455;

6227728; www.affordableartfair.nl

www.lastminuteticketshop.nl

LA BAYADÈRE October 10-25

Half-price tickets to events

www.muziektheater.nl

EXHIBITIONS CINEKID October 14-23

OMAN October 17 to April 18, 2010

REMEMBER! This copy of Holland Herald is

The annual international film, television and

Around 300 fabulous pieces from various

yours to take off the plane.

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La Bayadère. Photo: Angela Sterling

www.specialbite.com

www.woonbeurs.nl

PARTY

13-09-09 17:36

there are quick starts and

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NA_adv_HolTimes_210x260_07-09_v3.indd 1

03-08-2009 14:30:14

CAPITAL CUISINE

Photo: Hollandse Hoogte

Photo: ANP

Athens TOUCHDOWN

A MODERN GREEK FRIEZE

Old and new Ancient temples, world-class museums and a hedonistic nightlife – the Greek capital

DON’T MISS

has it all. There’s something for all tastes, whether it’s exploring Europe’s oldest

Hot chill

monuments, shopping for designer jewellery, gourmet dining with a classical view, or

The industrial-chic lounge bar

late-night partying.

Hoxton was once a warehouse. Its raw concrete

WHAT TO DO

walls now hang with

Monumental monuments

contemporary art and

HOW TO GET THERE

bargain for antiques at

KLM Royal Dutch Airlines

Monastiraki Flea Market.

operates three direct daily

Most of Athens’ top archaeo-

Chunky woollen flokati rugs are

flights on Fridays, Saturdays and

by soft sofas and low-level

logical sites lie in Plaka and

for sale at Village Flokati in

Tuesdays, and two direct daily

coffee tables. Named after

Monastiraki, including the

Plaka (www.villageflokati.gr), and

flights on all other days, to

London’s hip East End district,

temples of the Acropolis (www.

Kolonaki’s Elena Votsi (www.

Athens Eleftherios Venizelos

trendy Hoxton epitomises the

culture.gr), and the impressive

elenavotsi.com) has gold

Airport from Amsterdam Airport

Gazi district’s fun-loving spirit.

ruins of the Agorá (www.culture.

designer necklaces.

Schiphol.

42, Voutadon, Gazi; +30 210

gr). The National Archaeological

3413395.

Museum (www.culture.gr) in

WHERE TO BOOGIE

Tourist information

Omonia showcases ancient

Here’s the buzz

www.athensinfoguide.com;

CONCRETE AND COMFORT

58

Holland Herald

•58_Party_Touchdowns.indd 58

Photo: Casey McSweeney

photography, complemented

Greek art, while the Byzantine

The popular Psirri district

and Christian Museum (www.

buzzes with cocktail bars like

culture.gr) houses a dazzling

Soul (www.soulstereo.gr) and

Looking for handy, up-to-date

display of religious icons.

small clubs, such as Cubanita

travel information? Check out

www.visitgreece.gr

(www.cubanita.gr), playing live

KLM’s Destination Guide

WHERE TO SHOP

music. Friendly drinking dens dot

pages – and book your flight –

Taste of honey

the former industrial district of

on www.klm.com. Content

Join Athenians shopping for

Gazi. See and be seen at

provided by Frommer’s

Greek honey and olive oils at

Mommy (Delfon 4), in posh

Unlimited © 2009,

the chaotic Central Market or

Kolonaki.

Whatsonwhen Limited.

PARTY

13-09-09 17:41

ADVERTISING

On 28 September 2009, Holland Gateway was opened by Mr. Frank Heemskerk, Minister for Foreign Trade, Ms. Nebahat Albayrak, State Secretary for Justice and Mr. Jos Nijhuis, President of Schiphol Group. An organisation formed out of the joint initiative of the Ministry of Economics together with the Ministry of Justice, Ministry of Social Affairs & Employment, the Netherlands Chamber of Commerce and Schiphol Group. “Functioning as the information and service hub to improve the ease-of-doing business in the Netherlands as a gateway to Europe, Holland Gateway shall help international entrepreneurs with all aspects of orientation and business setting in the Netherlands. We are here to assist international parties with the interest to activate, expand and strengthen its commercial presence in the Netherlands and Europe�, says Micaela dos Ramos, Director of Holland Gateway.

the business needs of various international enterprises with a onestop-shop and simplified procedures.

We provide relevant information on hard topics such as sector analysis, core figures, legal, permits, infrastructure including legal and financial advice, which covers various areas including employment market potential, legal implications and intellectual property. In addition, we also welcome international business parties finding their foothold in the Netherlands, seeking orientation on soft topics such as expatriate’s lifestyle, historical and cultural information.

Setting its main objective to increase the attractiveness of the Netherlands as the location of choice for global establishments in Europe, Holland Gateway also strive to act as the agent for knowledge-intensive cooperation between Dutch educational bodies and international commercial enterprises.

Holland Gateway helps international entrepreneurs settle in and access active and functioning network which provides a wealth of knowledge and business opportunities. Holland Gateway is able to provide its client with specific assistance covering various topics relevant to international business operations (inter alia legal, finance, infrastructure, technology, knowledge) and also immigration of highly-skilled international workforce.

As a knowledge and service centre, Holland Gateway facilitates commercial activities to expand international businesses in the Netherlands. Its clients are a diverse range of international business parties; large and smaller corporation, entrepreneurs, investors and their international highly skilled-migrants.

Holland Gateway pragmatically services its international business clients via cooperation with the public and private parties. This well-integrated information and service portfolio aims to provide for

Holland Gateway provides free-of-charge services on strictly confidential basis.

How to use Holland Gateway services Headquartered at Schiphol airport, Holland Gateway opens its doors to all international business parties. Prior arrangements can be made for the use of our meeting platform or any other clientspecific services.

For more information go to www.hollandgateway.nl Holland Gateway, World Trade Centre Schiphol Airport, Schiphol Boulevard 105 1118 BG Schiphol Airport Telephone: +31 (0)20 206 5920 info@hollandgateway.nl

THE UBIQUITOUS HEADWEAR

DON’T DON’T MISS MISS

Tree-top Tree-top trip trip

Photo: iStockphoto

Photo: iStockphoto

PANORAMIC PANAMA

Photo: iStockphoto

Photo: iStockphoto

Panama TOUCHDOWN CityTOUCHDOWN

Hats Hatsoff… off… …to…to oneone of Central of Central America’s America’s most most cosmopolitan cosmopolitan cities. cities.

WithWith its chic its chic skyline skyline of soaring of soaring

For For an adventure an adventure in the in the heart heart steel steel andand glass, glass, stylish stylish barsbars andand restaurants, restaurants, andand legendary legendary nightlife, nightlife, together together withwith of Panama of Panama City,City, signsign up for up for

stunning stunning natural natural attractions, attractions, incuding incuding virgin virgin rainforests rainforests andand palm-fringed palm-fringed beaches, beaches, Panama Panama

Ancon Ancon Expeditions’ Expeditions’ Canopy Canopy

CityCity is a isgreat a great destination destination to explore. to explore.

Crane Crane Ride.

Ride.

Nature Nature enthusiasts enthusiasts are are hoisted hoisted above above the the Natural Natural

WHAT WHAT TO DO TO DO

Metropolitan Metropolitan ParkPark in a in a

Churches Churches and and canals canals

comfortable comfortable gondola gondola andand thenthen

Sophisticates should should headhead for for scenaplatea.com). scenaplatea.com).

High-end High-end and and Sophisticates mid-range mid-range options, options, suchsuch as as

Casco Casco Viejo.

Viejo.

lowered lowered to selected to selected

Madame Chang Chang (Avenida (Avenida 5a 5a A stroll A stroll through through the Casco the Casco Viejo ViejoMadame

observation observation sites. sites.

Above Above the the

CalleCalle Uruguay; Uruguay; +507+507 269 269 neighbourhood neighbourhood reveals reveals colonial colonialand and

parkpark – the – the world’s world’s onlyonly urban urban

1313)1313) and and Mi Ranchito Mi Ranchito (Isla (Isla attractions attractions like La likeIglesia La Iglesia de San de San

rainforest rainforest – you – you can can spotspot

JoséJosé Church.

Church.

A great A great way way to to

sloths, sloths, exotic exotic birdsbirds andand

Cangrejo, Obarrio, Obarrio, and and the the explore explore the Amador the Amador Causeway, Causeway,Cangrejo,

week week to Panama to Panama City City Tocumen Tocumen

capuchin capuchin monkeys, monkeys, among among

Amador Causeway.

Causeway.

Panama Panama City’sCity’s premier premier waterfront waterfrontAmador

International International Airport Airport fromfrom

other other creatures. creatures.

promenade, promenade, is byisbicycle. by bicycle.

Hire Hire

Amsterdam Amsterdam Airport Airport Schiphol.

Schiphol.

www.anconexpeditions.com www.anconexpeditions.com

themthem fromfrom the Isla the Naos Isla Naos bikebike

WHERE WHERE TO BOOGIE TO BOOGIE

rental rental office offi (+507 ce (+507 211 8579).

211 8579).

The The

All All night long night long

Naos), Naos), cluster cluster around around El El

HOWHOW TO GET TO GET THERE THERE

KLMKLM Royal Royal Dutch Dutch Airlines Airlines operates operates five fidirect ve direct flights flights a a

Tourist information Tourist information

Mirafl Mirafl oresores Visitor Visitor Center Center is a is a There’s www.visitpanama.com There’s something something for everyone for everyone www.visitpanama.com tribute tribute to the to Panama the Panama Canal, Canal, one one in Panama in Panama City’sCity’s nightlife, nightlife, fromfrom of the of world’s the world’s engineering engineering

vibrant vibrant Calle Calle Uruguay, Uruguay, to to

Looking for handy, up-to-date Looking for handy, up-to-date

marvels marvels (www.pancanal.com). (www.pancanal.com).

happening happening spots spots like the like the

travel information?

Check travel information?

Check out out

Amador Amador Causeway.

Causeway.

See See and and be beKLM’s KLM’s Destination Guide Destination Guide WHERE WHERE TO EAT TO EAT

seenseen at the at Radisson the Radisson

pages – and book pages – and book youryour flightflight – –

Choice Choice cuisine cuisine

Decapolis Decapolis Sushi Sushi Bar Bar andand

on www.klm.com.

Content on www.klm.com.

Content

Lounge, Lounge, one one of the of hippest the hippest Casco Casco Viejo Viejo is home is home to some to some of of the city’s the city’s bestbest international international

hotel hotel barsbars in town in town (www. (www.

provided

by Frommer’s provided

by Frommer’s Unlimited © 2009, Unlimited © 2009,

radisson.com/panamacitypan). Whatsonwhen Whatsonwhen Limited.

Limited. restaurants, restaurants, like S’cena like S’cena (www. (www. radisson.com/panamacitypan).

HIGH POINT

60

Holland Herald

•58_Party_Touchdowns.indd 60

PARTY

15-09-09 13:58

GO COLONIAL

SPICE IT UP IN MUMBAI’S MARKETS

Glamour and grace

DON’T MISS

Mumbai, on India’s west coast, is an intense city of exciting extremes – you’ll find both Bollywood bling and earthy charm here. Marvel at colonial architecture in Colaba and Fort, or opt for chic shopping and dining in Bandra and Juhu.

WHAT TO DO

Trunk service

Mumbai

Photo: iStockphoto

Photo: iStockphoto

TOUCHDOWN

Great Western Building, Shahid

Dome (Intercontinental Hotel,

Boats depart to Elephanta

Bhagat Singh Marg), while Fort

135 Marine Drive) offers drinks

Island’s ancient carvings from

has old favourites like Bombay

with sea views.

the iconic Gateway of India in

Store (www.bombaystore.com)

Colaba. Oval Maidan, between

for silk ties and exotic teas.

Maharishi Road and Karmaveer

High-street fashion fans head

Bhaurao Patil Marg, hosts

for Linking Road in Bandra,

operates one direct daily flight to

informal cricket matches.

and Mumbai’s celebrity set

Mumbai Airport from Amsterdam

Jasmine fills the air at

head to Juhu.

Airport Schiphol.

HOW TO GET THERE

KLM Royal Dutch Airlines

Lighting the way Diwali, or Deepavali, the Festival of Lights, takes place on October 17, and is the most important pan-Indian Hindu festival. Diwali symbolises light conquering darkness (good triumphing over evil), and homes all over Mumbai light lamps and lanterns in celebration. In legend, it marks the return of Lord Rama to his capital Ayodhya after vanquishing King Ravana.

Babulnath Mandir Temple (www.babulnath.com), while

WHERE TO BOOGIE

Tourist information

Chowpatty Beach offers

Join the club

www.mumbai.org.uk

Mumbai deserves its label as India’s party town. Most high-

Looking for handy, up-to-date

end hotels around Colaba have

travel information? Check out

exclusive nightclubs, while

KLM’s Destination Guide pages

Mumbai’s famous market Chor

Bandra has numerous cool DJ

– and book your flight – on

Bazaar in Kalbadevi has

bars including Zenzi (www.

www.klm.com. Content

everyone haggling for antiques.

zenzi-india.com). Dress smartly

provided by Frommer’s

Colaba is home to top Indian

for beachfront Vie Deck &

Unlimited © 2009,

designers Ensemble (130-132

Lounge (www.vie.co.in). Rooftop

Whatsonwhen Limited.

WHERE TO SHOP

Ties and tea

Photo: iStockphoto

beautiful sunset strolls.

FESTIVAL FLAMES

PARTY Holland Herald

•58_Party_Touchdowns.indd 61

61

13-09-09 17:43

Photo contest

GILLES NICOLET: CHILDREN PLAYING WITH A HIPPO, BENOUE RIVER, CAMEROON

See the world!

How does it work?

Don’t be late…

There’s a new theme every three months.

Entries for the Water category must be

At the end of the fourth quarter (March

received by January 4, 2010. See our

2010), KLM will award the Grand Prize to the

website below for submission details.

If you provide the year’s best shot, you’ll be globetrotting before you can say “where did I put my passport?”

What can you win?

overall winner.

Feeling inspired?

What theme?

Check out other beautiful shots from

THE GRAND PRIZE

For October, November and December

previous winners at:

2009, the theme is Water.

www.hollandherald.nl

A round-the-world ticket for the annual, overall winner CONTEST RULES • Photographs larger than 10x15cm cannot be accepted • Photographs will not be returned • Holland Herald, KLM and the publishers, MediaPartners Group, accept no responsibility for lost material • Copyright clearance and permission of subjects are the responsibility of the photographers. KLM and MediaPartners Group acquire the rights for future use of the images. • The competition is open to readers of Holland Herald who are 18 years of age or older on the date of entry, and who have flown with KLM during the same period as the theme category • Entrants for the Grand Prize will be notified as soon as possible after the closing date of the theme category • Employees of KLM and MediaPartners Group, participating promotional agencies, contributors to Holland Herald, and the families of any of the above are not eligible to enter this competition • The judges’ decisions are final • The Grand Prize cannot be exchanged for cash.

GERKE VISSER: SELF-TIMED PHOTO TAKEN WITH A KITE-MOUNTED CAMERA, DUBAI

62

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•62_Party_Photocomp.indd 62

PARTY

13-09-09 17:43

KLM NEWS

Travellers Check

Photo: KLM / MAI

NEWS AND INFORMATION FOR PASSENGERS

1936 Let’s dance... couples put their best feet forward, possibly for a film shoot, at Amsterdam Airport Schiphol.

contents Behind the scenes KLM news People & planet Flying Blue news KLM entertainment

64 66 68 71 72

www.klm.com The fleet KLM route maps Schiphol, hub gates Fit for flying

73 74 76 84 89

Holland Herald

•63_HH_TC_2_2009_cover.indd 63

TRAVELLERS CHECK

63

13-09-09 17:44

KLM BEHIND THE SCENES

Time to celebrate October 7 marks KLM’s official birthday, but various celebrations, under the banner ‘90 Years of Inspiration’, have been taking place throughout the year

'FIRST-TIMERS' GATHERED AT SCHIPHOL BEFORE THEIR FLIGHT IN JULY

“The activities demonstrate our vitality and flexibility,” says Fatima da Gloria, KLM’s Director of Special Events.

“We are simultaneously celebrating past milestones and sharing our present passion for flying with our passengers, while cultivating a strong vision for the future.”

The anniversary year began, appropriately on January 1, with a ‘Celebration Flight’. Two KLM aircraft – a 737, specially painted in retro-Sixties livery, and a 777, carrying chronically ill children – flew over The Netherlands, attracting huge media and general public attention.

“When it’s spring again, I’ll bring again, tulips from Amsterdam…” goes the song, and that was certainly true in April, when KLM’s CEO, Peter Hartman, together with floristry entrepreneur and glamorous Dutch model Frederique van der Wal, christened a newly created flower, Tulipa

64

Holland Herald

KLM, at the famous Keukenhof Gardens, not far from Amsterdam Airport Schiphol.

‘Cycling Blue for Kenya’ is an ongoing project in which KLM is helping provide the means for people in Kenya to buy and maintain bicycles. KLM employees have been organising events throughout the year to raise money for this AirCares charity. (See also People & Planet, page 68.)

For 90 Dutch senior citizens, a ‘journey

THE 'TULIPA KLM' BLOOMED IN APRIL

of inspiration’ took on a special meaning in July, when KLM treated them to a flight in a Fokker 50. No big deal, you might think – except that none of them had ever flown before!

“It was a truly memorable occasion, for all of us,” says Romi Langelaar, Inflight Supervisor on the day. “Everyone was so enthusiastic and excited; it was like conducting a party of schoolchildren on an outing – except the oldest passenger was 99 years old. She was amazed when she saw cars on the motorway far below us. ‘They look just like toys!’ she said.”

The prestigious KLM Open golf tournament organised a special Flying Blue Platinum Elite competition in the inspirational spirit of the 90th anniversary in August, while a ‘Tour of Inspiration’ road show is currently visiting 31 European cities up until November, presenting KLM products and services.

This month, an ‘Open House’ weekend offers KLM staff in The Netherlands the chance to visit selected locations not normally open to public view, like the huge aircraft hangars at Schiphol.

To crown the celebrations, in November, the ‘Peter Stuyvesant Ball’ in New York will link up with another anniversary: 400 years ago, the Dutch landed on the shores of what was to become the United States of America – the ultimate ‘journey of inspiration’.

For a profile of all KLM’s 90th anniversary events, including historic photos and videos, visit www.klm.nl/dereis (Dutch) or www.klm.com/thejourney (English).

TRAVELLERS CHECK

•64_HH_TC_2_2009_Behind the scenes-KLM News.indd 64

13-09-09 17:45

TAKE YOUR SEATS

FOR THE

UEFA CHAMPIONS LEAGUE Win 2 tickets for a UEFA Champions League game.

For a chance to win visit www.heineken.com/traveller and play the game.

HD9065 Adv210x260 KLM.indd 1

01-09-2009 09:58:35

KLM NEWS “Comfort and relaxation, on the ground and in the air”

Crowning achievement KLM’s Crown Lounge at Amsterdam Airport Schiphol is one of the best lounges in the world, according to the influential publication Business Traveller Magazine. It was included in a poll conducted among the magazine’s readers, who voted for the top 50 airport lounges worldwide. The lounge was officially opened in April this year and features seating for 850, high-tech essentials for business travellers looking for a quiet place to work, and a wide choice of meals, snacks and drinks.

LOUNGE IN STYLE AT SCHIPHOL

Top spot

CSR report

For the fifth consecutive year, AIR FRANCE KLM has been named leader in its sector (airlines) in the Dow Jones Sustainability Index (DJSI). The DJSI groups the world's leading performers in terms of sustainable development. The nomination recognises KLM's many efforts in this field, and will provide further impetus for future activities.

AIR FRANCE KLM’s Corporate Social Responsibility Report 2008-2009 is now available as a digital download via www.klm.com/csr. It provides an extensive overview of the airline group’s CSR activities, including its response to climate change (C02emission reduction, for example), local environment, and social and economic development.

On a long stretch?

Stretch out!

Weigh to go!

KLM Cargo transported its heaviestever load in August this year, when a 17,020-kilogram pallet flew on flight KL185 from Amsterdam Airport Schiphol to Shanghai, via Moscow. The 20-foot (approximately six-metre) cargo contained machine parts and originated in London. No less than 44 straps were needed to fasten the pallet securely in four places. A special parking space was created on the tarmac at Shanghai Airport, so that the pallet could be safely unloaded through the aircraft’s nose.

66

Holland Herald

SOCIAL RESPONSIBILITY BEGINS AT HOME

A STRAPPING FELLOW, AT 17,000 KILOGRAMS

KLM has the perfect answer for passengers who want extra comfort on intercontinental flights. Economy Comfort is a dedicated seating zone at the front of the Economy Class cabin, featuring seats with 12% more legroom than standard Economy Class seating and which recline up to twice as far.

Economy Comfort will be available across KLM’s entire intercontinental fleet from December 2009. For bookings and more details, visit www.klm.com

TRAVELLERS CHECK

•64_HH_TC_2_2009_Behind the scenes-KLM News.indd 66

13-09-09 17:45

(advertorial)

Take a seat at a UEFA Champions League match After a summer full of tense qualification matches, the UEFA Champions League’s main tournament is finally on track again. Heineken® is offering football fans a chance to get the best seats in the house.

Until May 2010, football fans from all over the planet will be captivated by the intense excitement of the world’s most highly regarded international club competition.

Europe’s top teams will engage in a thrilling nine-month tournament. Their goal is to reach the final at the famous Estadio Santiago Bernabéu in Madrid.

The UEFA Champions League showcases the best players, the best clubs and some of the most passionate fans in football. With TV coverage in more than 230 countries, it is truly a worldwide phenomenon.

As an official UEFA Champions League sponsor, Heineken® is very much part of the global UEFA Champions League experience. Heineken® and the UEFA Champions League are enjoyed together in bars, clubs, pubs, restaurants and living rooms all over the planet.

Fans gather to experience the highest level of football along with a few good friends and the world’s most refreshing premium beer. Who could think of a better way to share the excitement? As it turns out, Heineken® can.

The beer brand now offers football fans a unique opportunity to get closer than ever to the action. You can win two tickets to one of the matches in the group stages.

And these are not just any kind of tickets.

All you need to do to win is play an exciting online ‘spot the differences’ game. During the entire month of October, anyone over the legal drinking age is invited to enter the competition at Heineken.com/traveller

Play Star Match and win two tickets to a UEFA Champions League group stage match.

Visit Heineken.com/traveller and play Star Match. You will find two, almost identical scenes from the Heineken Star Lounge. The challenge is to spot 8 differences faster than anyone else.

The quickest entrant wins two tickets for a UEFA Champions League group stage match.

You can find the game and all terms and conditions on Heineken.com/traveller Highlights of this year’s UEFA Champions League matches will be shown as part of the in-flight entertainment program on the Sports channel.

HD9067 Adv210x260 Seats OnT.indd 1

02-09-2009 17:37:20

KLM PEOPLE & PLANET

Making tracks

Cycling Blue for Kenya Every year, millions of passengers board KLM flights with a burning desire to discover new lands.

KLM works closely with a number of

thrilling race crosses the finishing line on

organisations in The Netherlands to

October 28 in Adelaide, South Australia.

achieve its corporate social

Nuna 5 is lighter, faster and more

responsibility aims. Among them is the

aerodynamic than its four predecessors –

Delft University of Technology (TU Delft),

which have all previously won the race –

one of Europe’s leading institutions in the

and its student developers at TU Delft are

Unfortunately, these countries can

field of engineering and technology. No

anticipating a top speed of 100 kilometres

also be home to millions of children in

wonder, then, that KLM fully supports

per hour, ten kilometres per hour faster

need – a need identified in the UN

initiatives taken by students at TU Delft,

than Nuna 4.

Millennium Development Goals. KLM

such as Nuna 5, their entry in this year’s

For further details of the Global Green

EASING THE DAILY CYCLE

AirCares offers promotional, logistical

Global Green Challenge (formerly the World

Challenge, see www.globalgreenchallenge.

and financial support to NGOs to help

Solar Challenge) 3,010-kilometre race for

com.au. Information (in Dutch) about Nuna

them achieve these goals.

sun-powered vehicles. Revving up on

5 can be found at www.nuonsolarteam.nl

October 25 in Darwin, North Australia, this

Good luck to Nuna 5!

KLM’s Cycling Blue for Kenya project enables people in Kenya to buy and learn how to repair bicycles.

One of the project’s aims has been

Bonaire goes bio

to provide bicycles for children, in order to overcome any tiredness

The first venture to benefit from KLM’s

large-scale project whose aim is to supply

caused by walking long distances

C02ZERO service – in which passengers compensate for their share of C02

the entire island – around 5,000 homes

to their schools.

emissions – is a Gold Standard-certified

renewable sources. Once up and running,

set up a centre to train people in

wind farm on the beautiful Caribbean

it is anticipated that the wind turbines on

bicycle maintenance. An attached

island of Bonaire. The farm is part of a

the farm will generate 23 megawatts of

workshop generates income through

electricity, resulting in an annual C02emission reduction of 30,000 tons!

training fees, profits from bicycle sales

and businesses – with energy from 100%

Cycling Blue for Kenya has also

and spare parts, and repair costs.

Twenty people have been employed to construct the wind farm and its upkeep

Set the wheels in motion

will provide four permanent jobs for the

To donate money and/or Flying Blue

local population. The farm’s location is four

Miles to this or any other AirCares

kilometres from the nearest village, Rincon,

charity, please visit www.aircares.nl

and the turbines are positioned to follow

or make a donation during this flight

the natural line of the coast, creating as

(see the last page of our Inflight

little visual ‘pollution’ as possible.

Boutique shopping section in this

You can read more about the Bonaire wind project and KLM’s C02ZERO service via www.klm.com – click on ‘About KLM’ POLE POSITION FOR WIND ENERGY ON BONAIRE

68

Holland Herald

issue). Details of the continuing activities of Cycling Blue for Kenya can be found on www.klm.nl/dereis

and follow the link ‘Fly C02 Neutral’.

TRAVELLERS CHECK

•68_HH_TC_2_2009_People and planet right.indd 68

13-09-09 17:46

fasten your seatbelt It will be quite a ride. The Ryder Cup is coming to Wales in 2010.

This is the view from the tee of the par three third at Celtic Manor’s 2010 course. That’s a lot of water to carry.

Have you got the bottle?

Well, you can soon find out.

KLM flies direct to Cardiff 26 times a week. Experience Celtic Manor before Europe and the USA do battle from 1-3 October.

And try some of Wales’s 200 other golf courses – all of which are long on drama and short on stuffiness.

golfasitshouldbe.com

Wales KLM Advert.indd 1

05/08/2009 08:29

26/03/09

10:33

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Exceptional moments for valued customers.

Whether you’re travelling to discover new places, enjoy family weekends or on business, it’s essential to make the most of every second. With the benefits that the Flying Blue frequent flyer programme offers, you become a privileged customer, recognized by AIR FRANCE and KLM and every SkyTeam alliance airline.

Thanks to our network of over 900 destinations, every trip is a new opportunity to earn Miles. With over 130 partners worldwide, there are lots of ways to enjoy your Miles.

Whether it’s a flight to a destination you’ve always wanted

You can sign up online at klm.com or airfrance.com

to explore, a stay in a luxury hotel, or countless other ways to spend your Miles, the choice is yours.

As you travel more and more with us, we reward your loyalty by multiplying the services you can enjoy, to make every trip a moment that stands apart.

Photo Credits: Steen Sundland.

Mile s

KLM FLYING BLUE NEWS “More opportunities using Award Miles”

The perfect present Just a few Award Miles short of booking your dream holiday? You can now simply buy the extra Award Miles you need in increments of 2,000 up to a maximum of 40,000 Miles per purchase, per calendar year. It’s also a great gift for a special someone! Just send us his or her e-mail address or Flying Blue card number and we’ll make sure your gift is credited to the correct account. Even if they are not yet an FB member, they’ll still be able to receive your gift, after enrolling in the Flying Blue programme.

There’s also a special offer, for this month only. If you buy Award Miles for yourself or someone else before October 31, you will receive 30% extra Miles!

ENJOY MORE MILES

For details, visit the Flying Blue section at www.klm.com

Tax benefits

Improved award calendar

FB members can now use their Award

Flying Blue members have a wide

Miles to pay for the taxes and surcharges

availability of award seating on a

associated with AIR FRANCE and KLM

variety of flights operated by KLM, AIR

award tickets booked for travel within

FRANCE and all other SkyTeam partners.

Europe (excluding domestic flights within

The award booking calendar now displays

France). Available exclusively through the

a two-month scheme of award tickets,

Flying Blue Service Centre, this special

and features improved search options.

option is provided at the following rates:

Passengers can also combine different

7,500 Award Miles for one-way flights;

classes of travel and award tickets for

15,000 Award Miles for return flights. To

travel outbound and inbound.

arrange a redemption, contact your Flying SITTING PRETTY WITH AWARD TICKETS

How to join Flying Blue

PHONE ON BOARD

Earn both Level and Award Miles with

In the air, you can still keep in touch.

AIR FRANCE KLM’s loyalty programme,

Discover how easy it is to make calls

Flying Blue. Award Miles can be

using phones on board KLM’s B747-400,

redeemed for flights and products from

B777, MD-11 and Airbus 330 aircraft.

over 130 partners worldwide. Level Miles

• For operation of the wall-mounted

count towards a higher membership tier,

phone, see the placard on the wall

each offering benefits such as access to

below the phone.

airport lounges and extra baggage

• If you have in-seat entertainment,

Blue Service Centre.

Accepted credit cards

Info & Fun in the category Onboard.

• Calls cost US$5.90 per 30-second increment. There is a minimum charge of one minute per call.

• Payment is made by inserting your credit card into the side

allowance. For further details or to enrol,

your handset also acts as a phone.

of the phone and

simply visit www.klm.com

See the onscreen instructions under

swiping downwards.

Holland Herald

•71_HH_TC_2009_Flying blue news.indd 71

TRAVELLERS CHECK

71

13-09-09 17:46

KLM ENTERTAINMENT “More than six days of back-to-back movie viewing”

Let the fun begin!

State-of-the-art entertainment is available on all intercontinental KLM flights.* Just a few clicks will bring you to a virtual world of...

USE THE HANDSET TO MAKE YOUR CHOICE

Watching

Interaction

Instant access to over 85 movies, available

Who could resist sending someone a

in various languages, ranging from the

‘Guess where I am?’ text message from a

classics to the latest big-screen

mile above the Atlantic? Forgotten to

blockbusters. Comedies, sit-coms,

bring directions to your hotel? Simply

documentaries, news and travel shows

use the built-in email to ask a colleague

are just a click away.

to forward directions.

Listening

Stimulation

Compile your own playlist or select a

Challenge a fellow passenger to a game,

specific CD. There are hundreds of hits for

browse our extensive database of

every taste and every mood. If you prefer,

information and interesting trivia, or

you can just sit back and relax with a great

expand your horizons with one of the 23

audio book.

Berlitz language courses.

INFLIGHT MOVIE TOP 10 Cheri (Drama) Coco Avant Chanel (Drama) Ice Age: Dawn Of The Dinosaurs (Comedy) Land Of The Lost (Comedy) My Sister’s Keeper (Drama) The Escapist (Drama) The Other Man (Drama) The Taking Of Pelham 123 (Action) Transformers 2: Revenge Of The Fallen (Action) Whatever Works (Comedy)

AUDREY TAUTOU IN ‘COCO AVANT CHANEL’ - JUST ONE OF 85 MOVIES AVAILABLE ON BOARD

Too much choice?

Coco Avant Chanel is the story of Gabrielle ‘Coco’ Chanel, who began her life as a

Check out our online movie guide before

headstrong orphan and became the legendary couturier who embodied the modern

your next flight at www.klm.com (select:

woman. The movie portrays the formative years of Chanel’s life, the years she spent

Travel Information; On Board; Entertainment).

discovering and inventing herself.

* With the exception of Economy Class on Boeing 747-400s, where phased retrofitting has recently commenced.

72

Holland Herald

TRAVELLERS CHECK

•72_HH_TC_2_2009_Entertainment_KLM.com.indd 72

13-09-09 17:47

WWW.KLM.COM “A website you can rely on for all your travel needs”

A new era: e-boarding pass

More bags Less time Less money

Check in at www.klm.com using your

just as

computer, mobile phone, PDA, or

you

BlackBerry and an e-boarding pass will

would

Extra baggage no longer means extra

be sent to you via SMS, MMS or email.

with a

time and hassle at the airport. KLM has

paper

introduced a simple solution: with just a

boarding pass.

few clicks you can reserve and pay for

At the gate, simply hold your electronic device in front of a reader and the details

rther For further

will be scanned. The only document you’ll

extra baggage when you check-in online

need is your ID. You can use the

on about when information

electronic boarding pass at security

re this helpful and where

checks, for purchases in tax-free stores

service iss available, visit

save time at the airport, you also save

and to access lounges (when applicable),

m.com www.klm.com

30% on the normal charges levied at the

at www.klm.com By arranging this online, you not only

airport check-in desk.

KLM e-services make your travel planning faster, easier

Wanted: extra legroom

and more rewarding than ever.

Perhaps it’s a special occasion, or

For example, you can tell us your

you simply want to treat yourself or a

travel experiences with a direct,

loved one? The solution: Economy

easy-to-use link to KLM

Class seating with extra legroom or just

Customer Support via the Contact

two seats in a row.

us button on the website. Your communication can usually be

When checking in online via www.klm.

handled within five days. KLM

com, or at one of the kiosks at Amsterdam

offers a full range of services via

Airport Schiphol, these preferred seats can be reserved for a small supplement.

its website www.klm.com .

One-stop travel shop www.klm.com offers much more than just flight tickets. You’ll find everything you need to get from home to your hotel and everything in between, including car rental, airport parking and transport to and from a number of airports.

You won’t have to worry about shopping around either. We’ve made sure our prices are never higher than bookings made directly with our partners — all TRANSPORT TO THE AIRPORT AT WWW.KLM.COM

specially selected for their reliability.

Holland Herald

•72_HH_TC_2_2009_Entertainment_KLM.com.indd 73

TRAVELLERS CHECK

73

13-09-09 17:47

KLM PLANE FACTS Boeing 747-400

1920 May 17: the first KLM flight from London to Amsterdam.

1933 The Fokker F-XVIII Pelican sets a new record for the flight Amsterdam-Jakarta of four days, four hours and 35 minutes.

1934 October: the McDonnell Douglas DC-2 Uiver wins first prize in

22

the handicap section, and second prize

(Combi 16)

overall in the London-Melbourne Air

390,100

428

Race.

(Combi 396,900)

(Combi 280)

1946 KLM launches its scheduled

920

12,900

64.44

35,000 (Combi)

70.67

yes!

Boeing 747-400ER Freighter

service between Amsterdam and New York.

1960

KLM introduces the

McDonnell Douglas DC-8 into its fleet, marking the beginning of the ‘jet age’.

1971 KLM’s first Boeing 747B heralds the start of the ‘wide-body’ age.

4

920

12,900

1989 KLM is the first European

412,800

112,000

70.67

64.44

airline to introduce the new generation 747-400s.

Boeing 777-300ER

2001 KLM is the first European airline to introduce the next generation of 737-900s.

2003-2004 KLM embarks on an extensive fleet renewal programme.

Artwork KLM fleet: Hans Murris, KLM Engineering & Maintenance, SPL/WM

2005 KLM starts adding the first of

4

900

14,200

64.80

351,543

425

73.86

yes!

12 Airbus A330-200 aircraft to its fleet.

2008

KLM’s first two (out of a

total of six) Boeing 777-300ERs are

Boeing 777-200ER

put into operation.

Thanks to its efficient network, its modern fleet and many economical measures, KLM’s performance regarding fuel efficiency is one of the best in Europe. The website www.klm.com/ csr gives full information on KLM’s

15

900

13,400

60.90

297,500

327

63.70

yes!

corporate social responsibilty and sustainable air transport activities.

74

Holland Herald

•74_HH_2_2009_PlaneFacts.indd 74

TRAVELLERS CHECK

13-09-09 17:47

How big, how small, how far…?

KLM PLANE FACTS

McDonnell Douglas MD-11

10

880

11,400

51.96

280,300

294

61.21

yes!

Airbus A330-200

Boeing 737-900/800

10

880

10,700

60.30

233,000

251

58.37

yes!

5

850

4,600

35.80

21

850

4,200

35.80

76,900

189

41.91

73,700

171

39.47

Boeing 737-700

4

850

3,600

129

33.60

Boeing 737-400/300

10

800

3,600

28.88

9

800

2,850

28.88

62,800

147

36.45

56,900

127

33.40

35.80 65,300

EMBRAER 190

7

850

45,700

100

4,500

Fokker 100/70

12

740

2,400

28.08

24

743

2,400

28.08

44,400

103

35.53

38,000

80

30.91

28.72

36.25

Fokker 50

KEY

SCALE: 1 CM = 6.3 M

NUMBER OF AIRCRAFT

10 20,800

505 50

2,200 25.25

MAX. TAKE-OFF WEIGHT (KG)

TELEPHONE ON BOARD

WINGSPAN (M)

MAX. RANGE (KM)

CRUISING SPEED (KM/H)

LENGTH (M)

MAXIMUM PASSENGERS

MAX. FREIGHT (KG)

29

Fleet data information valid at magazine publication date

Holland Herald

•74_HH_2_2009_PlaneFacts.indd 75

TRAVELLERS CHECK

75

13-09-09 17:48

WESTERGASFABRIEK

KLM MAPS AMSTERDAM

CENTRAL STATION

VVV AMSTERDAM TOURIST OFFICE ANNE FRANK HOUSE BEURS VAN BERLAGE WESTERKERK

NEMO MUSEUM

THE NIEUWE KERK VAN PAMPUS

ROYAL PALACE

NIEUWMARKT MARITIME MUSEUM

DIAMOND CENTER GASSAN DIAMONDS AMSTERDAM HISTORICAL MUSEUM

ZUIDERKERK

REMBRANDT HOUSE WATERLOOPLEIN

FLOWER MARKET

HORTUS BOTANICUS

OPERA HOUSE

WATERLOOPLEIN JEWISH HISTORICAL MUSEUM

ARTIS

HERMITAGE AMSTERDAM STADSSCHOUWBURG FOAM

KEY

MAGERE BRUG CARRÉ THEATRE WEESPERSTRAAT

TRAMLINE RAILWAY

RIJKSMUSEUM FILMMUSEUM

RED LIGHT DISTRICT

VAN GOGH MUSEUM

MUSEUM DISTRICT JORDAAN HEINEKEN EXPERIENCE

CONCERTGEBOUW

ALBERT CUYP MARKET

IMPORTANT BUILDING WIBAUTSTRAAT

RAILWAY STATION METRO STATION ZOO GENERAL ATTRACTION MUSEUM CHURCH THEATRE MARKET TOURIST OFFICE

REVERSO SQUADRA CHRONOGRAPH GMT www.jaeger-lecoultre.com

•76_HH_TC Maps met adv.indd 82

13-09-09 17:56

KLM PARTNERS

Our partners, your benefits AIR FRANCE KLM, Europe’s largest

Hertz. Level Miles count towards a

Together with our new US joint venture

airline group, is a member of

higher membership tier, each offering

partner, Delta Air Lines, we guarantee you

SkyTeam, an alliance of 10 airlines and 3 associate airlines. This offers

different benefits such as access to airport

a perfectly integrated network and

lounges and extra baggage allowance.

superior customer service.

you a variety of benefits such as: 905 global destinations; access to more lounges worldwide; a coordinated timetable for improved connections; and more opportunities to earn Flying Blue Level and Award Miles. Award Miles can be spent on flights, or with over 100 nonairline partners, such as Marriott and

KLM and its main partners Founded: 1933 / Home base: Paris Fleet size: 427** / Passengers: 52 million WWW.AIRFRANCE.COM ** including Régional, Britair, Cityjet and VLM Airlines

Founded: 1928 / Home base: Atlanta Fleet size: 1,015 / Passengers: 170 million WWW.DELTA.COM Founded: 1919 / Home base: Amsterdam Fleet size: 210* / Passengers: 22 million WWW.KLM.COM * including KLM Cityhopper, Martinair and transavia.com

Other KLM partners Combined code-share and Flying Blue partners

Flying Blue partners

Code-share partners

You can earn and/or spend Miles with all SkyTeam alliance members and KLM’s Flying Blue partners in Flying Blue, AIR FRANCE KLM’s loyalty program. For detailed information visit www.klm.com or www.airfrance.com. A code-share partner means that even though you have booked a KLM flight number, you may find yourself travelling on a service operated by that partner.

Holland Herald

•75_HH_TC_2_2009_Partners.indd 83

TRAVELLERS CHECK

83

13-09-09 17:49

SKYTEAM AIRPORT HUB GATES Amsterdam / Schiphol Airport, The Netherlands B34 B36

B30 B32

B26 B28

B22 B24

B18 B20 B16

B14

4

Gates B B35

B31

B27

B17

B23

M7

B15

M6

B13

H7

M5

Gates M

C14 to C21 - C26

C12

C16

Gates C

C10

C8

C15 - C18

C6

4

C7

C9

T3 T2

C5

Lounge 1 D14 D12 D68

D10 D66

3

G11-16

2

T5 T4

12

3

Lounge 2

F2

Lounge T8 3

Holland Boulevard

Schiphol World Avenue

G7 G9

E4

G6 G8

F3

T6

F4

Gates G

F5

3

E3

F7 F6

E6

E5

F9

Gates F 7

E8

E9

E18

E17 E20

Gates E

F8

E7

Transfer desk Self-service transfer

3

G2

G4

E2

D43 D73

3

2 1

D41 D71

G3 G5

1

E15

T

H2 H1

6 Lounge 3 4 T9

D3 D5 D59 D7 D61 D63

Gates D

Gates B-C, D 59-87, M

M1

3

8

Gates H

H4 H3

Schiphol Plaza

D2 D4 D60 D8 D62 D64

D42 D44 D72 D46D74 D48 D76 D52 D78 D54 D82 5 D47 D56 D84 D49 D77 D86 D51 D79 D53 D81 D55 D83 D57 D85 D87

Schengen

H5

4

M2

C11

D16 D18 D22 D24 5 D26 D21 D28 D23 D25 D27 D29 D31

H6

M4 M3

C4

4

C13

KLM flights arrive at / depart from gates B, C, D, E, F. Air France and Alitalia flights arrive at / depart from gates B and C. Continental, Delta and Korean Air flights arrive at / depart from gate G. Northwest Airlines flights arrive at / depart from gate E. Czech Airlines flights arrive at / depart from gate D. For KLM passengers travelling to Antwerp (Thalys) and Rotterdam (NS): Please ensure you collect your luggage in Amsterdam and change your KLM (e-) ticket for a Thalys/NS ticket at the Netherlands Railways (NS ) desk at Schiphol Plaza (just past immigration).

to B1 - B8

E22

KLM Crown Lounge

Passengers with access to KLM’s Crown Lounges and who are transferring to European (Schengen) flights are kindly advised to use Crown Lounge 25, located near the Schengen gates behind passport control, when arriving on intercontinental flights.

E19

Top Level Second floor

E24

KLM Crown Lounge

25

Gates D KLM Crown Lounge

52

Paris / Charles De Gaulle Airport Terminal 2, France TERMINAL 2E TERMINAL 2A

TERMINAL 2C C86-C87 C84-C85 C82-C83 C88-C89

C80-C81

T

C90-C91

A48-A49 A46-A47 A44-A45 A42-A43

A50-A51

T

T

E51 E76

1

5

3

4

4

5

TERMINAL 2E GATES E51 TO E76

A40-A41

1

T

1

5

1

5

F41-F43

T

F56

T

F54-F55

F2

TERMINAL 2G GATES G21 TO G40

F21-F25 F36

F44-F45

F35

F46

F49 F51

F27

TERMINAL 2F Schengen

4

3

T

T D74 D76

D53-D54

D72-D73

D55-D56 D57-D58 D61-D62 D64-D65 D70-D71 D60-D61

B33-34 B31-B32 B21-B22 B23-B24 B26-B27-B28 B29-B30 B25

F28

F33

F48 F52

F26

F1

F34

F47

F53

T

Thalys/RER/TGV Railway station

1 4

T

TERMINAL 2D

F29 F32 F31

TERMINAL 2B

F30

F50

Delta, Northwest Airlines, AeroMexico and Korean Air flights arrive at / depart from Terminal 2E.

KLM and Alitalia flights arrive at / depart from Terminal 2F, Gates F21 to F36.

Air France flights arrive at / depart from Terminals 2C, 2D, 2E and 2F. Passport control / Security check

KEY A1 Check-in Self-Service Check-in

84

Holland Herald

•84_Hub Gates.indd 84

Gate Numbers Baggage Claim

4

Walking distance from point to point (average time in minutes)

T

Continental flights arrive at / depart from Terminal 2A. Czech Airlines flights arrive at / depart from Terminal 2D.

Self-service transfer

Landside connection shuttle to/from Terminal 2G

Transfer desk

Transfer by shuttle 1 outside Customs Area

Air France Lounge Transfer by train

1

Transfer by shuttle bus inside Customs Area Transfer by shuttle bus inside Customs Area, only between 7:30am and 4:15pm

TRAVELLERS CHECK

13-09-09 17:57

SKYTEAM AIRPORT HUB GATES Milan / Malpensa Airport, Italy Satellite A serves arrivals at / departures from all Schengen countries.

Airlines on this pier are KLM, Air France and Alitalia.

TERMINAL 1

5 5

10

5

5

Satellite B serves arrivals at / departures from all non-Schengen countries.

Airlines on this pier are Delta and Continental.

5

VIP Lounge

Satellite A

Satellite B

Rome / Fiumicino Airport, Italy KLM, Air France and Alitalia flights arrive at / depart from Terminal B. Delta, Continental and Northwest Airlines flights arrive at / depart from Terminal C.

5 10

TERMINAL A

VIP Lounge 5

TERMINAL C

5 5

TERMINAL B

Satellite

Tokyo / Narita International Airport, Japan

Concourse C C87

C85

C83

KLM, Air France, AeroMexico, Delta, Continental, Korean Air, Northwest Airlines and Alitalia flights arrive at / depart from Terminal 1.

Concourse D C81

D88

D91

D93

D95

D97 D99

T

D86

D98 C84

C82

D92

D94

D96

E80

WorldClub Facility

TERMINAL 2 Concourse B

Concourse A 58

B74

B73

B72

B71

T

E60

A61

A62

A63

A64

57 56 55

11A 11B 14

54

12 51

53

T

15

Satellite 1

52

16

17

18 47

21

TERMINAL 1

T

Satellite 2

23

24

46

32

22 28A 25 2F

26

27

31

34

33

38

36

35

37

45 44 41

42

Holland Herald

•84_Hub Gates.indd 85

43

TRAVELLERS CHECK

85

13-09-09 17:57

SKYTEAM AIRPORT HUB GATES Minneapolis / Saint Paul International Airport, USA

B1 B3 B5 B7 B9 B11 B13 B15

LINDBERGH TERMINAL B Concourse D Concourse

D4

B2 B4 B6 B8 B10 B12 B14 B16

C Concourse D5

D3 D2 D1

C5 D6

C1

C3

C4

C2

C7 C6

C8

C9

C10

C11

C14 C13 C12

C22 C15 C17 C19 C21 C24 C26 C20 C16 C18 C23 C25 C27

A Concourse A1

A5

A3 A4

A2

A7 A6

A9 A8

A11 A13 A10 A12 A14

E4 E9 E5 E3

E7

E1

E Concourse (Lower level) F Concourse F5 F9

WorldClub Facility

F1 F3

F7

F11 F13 F15 F16 F14

First floor

International flights arrive at / depart from gates G1 to G9.

Continental and Delta flights arrive at / depart from Concourse E. KLM flights arrive at / depart from Concourse G. Northwest Airlines flights arrive at / depart from all concourses.

F2 F6 F10

G22 G21

F4

F8

G9

G1

G10

F12 G3 G2

G5 G4

G7 G6

G8

G11 G13 G12

G15 G14 G16

G17 G19 G18 G20

G Concourse

New York / John F Kennedy Airport, USA TERMINAL 8

TERMINAL 7

KLM, Northwest Airlines, Continental, Continental Express and Czech Airlines flights arrive at / depart from Terminal 4.

Air France, AeroMexico, Aeroflot, Alitalia, and Korean Air flights arrive at / depart from Terminal 1.

Delta flights arrive at / depart from Terminal 3.

TERMINAL 6

TERMINAL 9

TERMINAL 5

TERMINAL 1

TERMINAL 4

TERMINAL 2

TERMINAL 3

New York / Newark Liberty International Airport, USA 136 137 138 139 128

135 134 133 132 131

A1

130

125 126 127 124 123 122

121 120

TERMINAL A 23 24 25

TERMINAL C

20

A2

28

101

27

26A 26B

102 104A 104B 106 108A 110A 108B 110B112A 112B 114A 103A 105 114B 103B 107A 109 107B 115A 111 113A 115B 113B

70

TERMINAL B

72 71 90

91

73

A3

93 80

82

B1

•84_Hub Gates.indd 86

81

84

B2

B3

83

86

85 88

Holland Herald

94

96 98

75

86

92

74

95

97 99

KLM, Air France, Delta, Czech Airlines, Northwest Airlines, Continental and Alitalia flights arrive at / depart from Terminal B. Continental (from / to Atlanta, Boston, Chicago, Dallas and Washington D.C.) flights arrive at / depart from Terminal A. Continental (from / to London Heathrow) flights arrive at / depart from Terminal B. Continental and Continental Express flights arrive at / depart from Terminal C. Presidents Club WorldClub Facility

87

TRAVELLERS CHECK

13-09-09 17:57

SKYTEAM AIRPORT HUB GATES Atlanta / Hartsfield-Jackson Intercontinental Airport, USA B36

NORTH

C36

C35

A33

B34

B33

C34

C33

D36

D35

T14

A32

A31

B32

B31

C32

C31

D34

D33

A30

A29

B30

B29

C30

C29

D32

D31

D30

D29

D28

D27

D26

D25

C17

D24

D23

C15A

D22

D21

C15

D16

D15

C11

D14

D13

D12

D11

D10

D9

D8

D7

D6

D5

A28

A27

B28

B27

C28

C27

A26

A25

B26

B25

C26

C25

A24

A23

B24

B23

C24

T12 T11 T10

A22

A21

B22

B21

C20

T9

A20

A19

B20

B19

C18A

T8

A18

A17

B18

B17

C18

T7

A16

A15

B16

B15

C16

A14

A13

B14

B13

C14

A12

A11

B12

B11

C12

A10

A9

B10

B9

C10

C7

A8

A7

B8

B7

C8A

C5

T6

C9

T4

SOUTH

E32

E31

E30

E31A E29

E28

E27

E26

E14 E16 E18

E12 E15 E17 E10

E11

C7A

T5

T3

E33

C23 C21

KLM, Air France, AeroMexico and Korean Air flights arrive at / depart from Terminal E. Continental, Continental Express and Northwest Airlines flights arrive at / depart from Terminal D. Delta flights arrive at / depart from Terminal A, B, C, D, E and T.

E34 E36 E35

A34

T13

TERMINAL T

D38

T15

A6

A5

B6

B5

C8

C3

T2

A4

A3

B4

B3

C6

C2

D4

D3

T1

A2

A1

B2

B1

C4

C1

D2

D1

E8

Crown Rooms (Delta Airlines)

E9

E6

E7

E4

E7A

Presidents Club E5 E2 E1 E3

TERMINAL A

TERMINAL B

TERMINAL C

TERMINAL D

TERMINAL E

Houston / George Bush Intercontinental Airport, USA TERMINAL A North Concourse

TERMINAL B North Concourse

TERMINAL C North Concourse

C18

KLM, Air France, AeroMexico flights arrive at / depart from Terminal D. Northwest Airlines flights arrive at / depart from Terminal B. Delta flights arrive at / depart from Terminal A. Continental Connection flights arrive at / depart from Terminal A. Continental Express flights arrive at / depart from Terminal B. Continental flights arrive at / depart from Terminal C, D and E.

TERMINAL D North Concourse

C19 C17 C20

B79 B79A

A14

A15

A12

A11

A10

B81 A9 B81A

B80

A2

A1

C16

B86 B85A B77 B77A

C21 B85

C15

B87 C22

B84A B84B B84C

B76 B76A

C14

B88

A7

C26

C25

C24

C30

C31

C32

D6 D6A

D5

C23

B83 B83A

A8

D1

D2

D4 D3 D4A

C43

C44

C45

D7

D8

D9

D10 D11 D12

T

C27

B67

B68

B72

B60

B64

E24

C29 B69

B71A B70

B61

B71

B63 C33

E10A E10B

E1

B62 B62A

E12

E11

E14

E23

C34 C42 C35 C41 C36

TERMINAL A South Concourse

TERMINAL B South Concourse

E2

E9

E15A-E15B

E3

E8

E16

E21

E7A-E7B

E17

E20A-E20B

E4A-E4B

TERMINAL C C37 South Concourse C38 C39

C40

TERMINAL E E18A South Concourse

E22

E6

E5A E5B

Presidents Club

E19 E18B

Detroit / Metropolitan Wayne County Airport, USA B20 B18 B16 B12 B10 B8

B6

B4

B2

C2

C4

KLM, Air France and Northwest Airlines flights arrive at / depart from Concourse A.

C6 C8 C10 C12 C14 C16 C18 C20 C22 C24 C26 C28 C30 C32 C34 C36 C38 C40

McNAMARA TERMINAL

C43 B21 B19 B15 B11 B7

B5

B3

B1

C1

C3

C5

C7

C9 C11 C15 C17 C19 C21 C23 C25 C27 C29 C31 C33 C35 C37 C39 C41

Concourse B

Concourse C Tunnel

A6

A8

A10

A4

A72 A12

A18

A20

A24

A28

A30

A34

A36

A38

A40

A46

A50

A54

A56

A60

A64

A66

A68

A74

A76 A78

A70

A2

Delta, Continental and Northwest Airlines flights arrive at / depart from Concourse B and C.

A77

A1

A75 A3

A5

A7

A9

A11

A15

A17

A19

A21

A23

A25

A27

A29

A31

A33

A35 A41

Concourse A south

A43

A45

A47

A49

A51

A53

A55

A57

A59

A61

A63

A65

A67

A69

A71

WorldClub Facility

A73

Concourse A north

KEY Check-in Self-Service Check-in Passport control / Security check

A1 Gate Numbers T

Transfer by shuttle bus

Transfer desk Baggage Claim

Transfer by train 4

Holland Herald

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Walking distance from point to point (average time in minutes)

TRAVELLERS CHECK

87

13-09-09 17:57

Treat your biz to a bonus.

Enrol on klm.com/bluebiz and earn free flights.

BlueBiz is KLM’s company loyalty programme.

Sign up now and your business will be given Blue Credits on every trip. On top of your Flying Blue Miles.

You can redeem your Blue Credits for free flights, for business or leisure, for anyone in your company.

Not enrolled? You should be. It’s free. Just take a look at our leaflet on board the aircraft or visit www.klm.com/bluebiz.

Advertentie_23Januari_UK.indd 1

10-02-2009 13:38:11

KLM FIT FOR FLYING

Our handy hints can help you to stay feeling great both during and after the flight. Exercises should be performed slowly with steady, even breathing 10 TIMES

15 TIMES

30 TIMES

5 TIMES

15 TIMES

10 TIMES

Feet

Ankles

Knees

Shoulders

Legs

Back and arms

With your heels on the floor, stretch your toes upwards.

Then, keeping your toes on the floor, stretch your heel upwards.

Rotate your foot first in one direction and then the other.

Raise your leg, tensing the muscles of your thigh.

With your hands on your thighs, rotate your shoulders in a circular motion.

Bend forward slightly. Wrap your hands around your knee and raise it to your chest.

Hold for 15 seconds.

Place both feet flat on the ground and hold in your stomach. Bend forward, moving your hands down your legs.

Relax whilst flying

During the flight

Reducing jetlag

Statistics show that flying is much safer

Ear pain? Pinch your nose shut,

Start adjusting your body clock to

than many situations in our daily lives

close your mouth and swallow or

the time zone of your destination the

The crew in control of the plane are

blow out against your closed mouth.

night before departure by going to

highly trained and experienced

Alternatively, chew gum

bed earlier or later

KLM aircraft are maintained and designed

Stimulate your circulation by walking

Don’t eat too heavily the night before

to withstand all sorts of turbulence

around in the cabin and stretching

you leave, or drink too much coffee or

Try to relax – breathe in deeply through

Avoid sitting with your legs crossed

alcohol

your nose, hold for three seconds and

as this restricts circulation

Eat protein-rich meals at times that

exhale slowly

Taking your shoes off might be

are normal for your new time zone

KLM partner, VALK Foundation, can offer

more comfortable

At your destination, take light exercise,

support to people with a fear of flying. Visit

Drink plenty of water and not too

such as a walk

www.valk.org or call +31 71 5273733

much alcohol, tea or coffee

Spend at least 30 minutes in daylight

HOUSE RULES All

electronic devices must

The only electronic devices which

during the flight

Drinks are served

one at a time

be turned off completely whilst

may be used

walking to/from the aircraft, and

and ground stop are:

passengers occupying

• Those with a ‘flight mode’ or ‘flight

their assigned seats.

during take-off, approach and landing.

Mobile phones

safe’ setting. This must be activated before the aircraft doors are closed.

• Laptops, if the WLAN/

may be used on board

WiFi is turned off.

the aircraft as long as

• Electronic games,

the aircraft doors are

MP3, DVD and

open (subject to local

CD players.

regulations).

For safety reasons, the purser may close the bar. Passengers are not permitted to drink alcoholic beverages brought on board with them.

Smoking on KLM flights is strictly forbidden at all times.

Holland Herald

•89_HH_2_2009_FitForFlying.indd 89

to

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13-09-09 17:57

EU AIRPORTS

Hand baggage rules at EU airports To increase passenger safety, security rules for hand luggage are in place for all flights, in accordance with European Union regulations

Airport shopping in the EU Within the European Union,

Carrying liquids and gels in your hand baggage

liquids and gels that you purchase after passing through passport control, or on board the aircraft

When passing through security control, you will be required to present liquids and

will be packaged and sealed for

gels separately. Please follow the guidelines below.

you, together with the receipt.

The unbroken seal is valid for

18-20 cm

24 hours.

Airport shopping outside the EU If you buy liquids or gels at a 20-22 cm

non-EU airport and change planes at an EU airport, your purchases will be confiscated at the EU airport security check. This can also happen for purchases you make on board an aircraft operated by an airline from a non-EU country. For further information visit www.klm.com

The plastic bag

Liquids, gels, pastes, lotions and

may not exceed

aerosols are not permitted in

Animal products

1 litre in volume

containers bigger than 100ml

To prevent the spread of animal diseases, you are prohibited from entering the EU with meat, meat

For use only during the flight, you may also take on board: Special diet food

•90_HH_1_2009_EU Airports.indd 90

permitted on arrival from Andorra, the Faroe Islands, Greenland, Iceland,

1 re-sealable

transparant plastic bag

Medication

Holland Herald

Small quantities for personal use are

Only

Baby food

90

products, milk and milk products.

per passenger

Liechtenstein, Norway, San Marino and Switzerland. For further information visit http://europa.eu.int.

TRAVELLERS CHECK

13-09-09 17:58

KLM InямВight Boutique Issue 10

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Be

Pink Women worldwide standing side by side

October is traditionally Pink Ribbon month, when women unite in the battle against breast cancer. This is proving successful: the message communicated by Pink Ribbon is reaching women all over the world.

You can support Pink Ribbon by buying one of the special merchandise items from the KLM Inflight Boutique. Your purchase will help to fund research, and will also help Pink Ribbon to tell women worldwide that early discovery of breast cancer considerably increases their survival rate. Stand shoulder to shoulder with us and support Pink Ribbon.

560

Limited edition

Pink

Be Delicious Fresh Blossom - Limited Edition Inspired by the delicate beauty of the apple blossom, this eau de parfum spray is fresh and floral with an innocent playfulness. Eau de parfum 50ml. Donna Karan Cosmetics will donate $15,000 in connection with the sales of this item to the Breast Cancer Research Foundation®.

Earn 78 Flying Blue Miles - Local Price €52

tax free

39

€ 20

KLM Inflight Boutique Issue 10

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FUSION FUSION Pendant in 18 Carat gold with a 45 cm leather cord.

The pendant can be worn with a gold chain as well.

Design Nina Koppel www.georgjensen.com

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À WWW MONTBLANC COM À WWW UNICEF ORG

signature for good. | The ability to read and write is a fundamental human right and the most important asset for children. It is essential for the development of the individual and of society, helping pave the way for a successful and self-determined life.

Deeply committed to the culture of writing, Montblanc is cooperating with UNICEF for the third time. Since 2004 more than US$1 million has been raised to support UNICEF education programmes worldwide. Part of the proceeds* from this Meisterstßck special edition will again be donated to UNICEF and its literacy projects, with a minimum amount of US$1.5 million being guaranteed by Montblanc. – The Meisterstßck Signature for Good edition has been handcrafted by our master craftsmen in the customary tradition of every Meisterstßck since 1924. It features a precious blue sapphire and gold-plated wreath on the cap.

*For every item in the Signature for Good collection sold in the US and UK between 1 June 2009 and 31 May 2010, Montblanc will donate 10 per cent of the retail price to support UNICEF education programmes. UNICEF does not endorse any brand or product. No portion of the purchase price is tax-deductible.

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H E I N E N T

R

A

D

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T

I

O

N

A

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D E L F T W A R E D

U

T

C

H

C

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R

A

M

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S

H E I N E N T

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R

A

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D E L F T W A R E D

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· www.montblanc.com · www.unicef.org

signature for good. | The ability to read and write is a fundamental human right and the most important asset for children. It is essential for the development of the individual and of society, helping pave the way for a successful and self-determined life.

Deeply committed to the culture of writing, Montblanc is cooperating with UNICEF for the third time. Since 2004 more than US$1 million has been raised to support UNICEF education programmes worldwide. Part of the proceeds* from this Meisterstück special edition will again be donated to UNICEF and its literacy projects, with a minimum amount of US$1.5 million being guaranteed by Montblanc.

– The Meisterstück Signature for Good edition has been handcrafted by our master craftsmen in the customary tradition of every Meisterstück since 1924. It features a precious blue sapphire and gold-plated wreath on the cap.

*For every item in the Signature for Good collection sold in the US and UK between 1 June 2009 and 31 May 2010, Montblanc will donate 10 per cent of the retail price to support UNICEF education programmes. UNICEF does not endorse any brand or product. No portion of the purchase price is tax-deductible.

KLM_Ad_UNICEF_crossc_210x260_RZ.1 1

01.07.2009 14:23:58 Uhr