Holland Herald
Holland Herald MARCH 2009 YOUR COPY TO KEEP
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THE MARCH 2009
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travel
Cover photos: Martin Dijkstra
Ice fever always grips the Dutch nation during the colder months, and the travellers on our cover journeyed to Het Twiske, just north of Amsterdam, to soak up this very special atmosphere. Unfortunately for our model, though, she didn’t actually get to play with penguins in Antarctica or see the pyramids at Giza, as all the other shots were faked by us. But we hope they inspire you to take a real trip and join us as we find out the secrets behind wanderlust, go sailing in Eritrea, get some top tips on creating the perfect holiday snaps and check out the best destinations to suit your personality.
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Contents
THE TRAVEL ISSUE
KLM Travellers Check 58 59 61 63 64 65 66 68 75 81 82 Hartman Quarterly
Peter F. Hartman, KLM’s President and CEO, on travel
KLM news
All the latest information
People & planet
Conserving water on the ground and in the sky
Flying Blue news
Information for frequent flyers
Partners
An overview of our companion companies
KLM.com
Get online with our Internet services
Plane facts
KLM’s fleet in focus
Route maps
The world at your fingertips
Airport hubs Finding your way
Fit for flying
Tips and exercises for a comfortable flight
Baggage rules
Security rules for EU airports
Shopping
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*
Enjoy our wide selection of tax-free products. On intercontinental and selected European flights
*The Shopping section is not included in Holland Herald on most short-haul flights 4
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Holland Herald www.hollandherald.nl
Volume 44 Number 3 March 2009 Published by MediaPartners LoyaliteitsCommunicatie Editor-in-Chief Mike Cooper mikecooper@mediapartners.nl Project Editor Ruth Lindsay Art Director Jacob Mulder Desk Editors Brian Jones, Scott Roane Concept Lava, Amsterdam Designer Allan Grotjohann Photo Editor Monique van Wegen Traffic Coordinator Simone Snaterse Account Brunhilde Oosterhuis Contributors John S. Burnett, Martin Dijkstra, Pip Farquharson, Annemarie Hoeve, Cecily Layzell, Keith Martin, Carolyn Risdale, Yke Schotten, Jane Szita, Jeanne Tan, Jan Zwart PUBLISHER MediaPartners Group B.V. Head office (Editorial and Advertising) PO Box 2215, 1180 EE Amstelveen, The Netherlands Tel: +31-20-5473600 www.mediapartners.nl ADVERTISING KLM Media A sales division of MediaPartners. Arno van Grondelle, Marjan van Hal, Cedric-Fabian Hovenburg, Kitty Visser sales@mediapartners.nl Shopping Pages Design and Concept Eline Gambino-Lebens Shopping Photography/Production Lukkien Shopping Design/Layout Daan de Vogel, Lemon Crush KLM COORDINATION Frederic van Nierop Lithography by Grafimedia Amsterdam Printed by Roto Smeets Weert, The Netherlands ISSN 0018-3563 Reproduction without written permission is prohibited. The publisher accepts no responsibility for unsolicited material. The publisher has made every effort to arrange copyright in accordance with existing legislation. Those who feel that rights may apply to them can, in spite of this, contact the publisher.
ADVERTISING REPRESENTATIVES Austria D + R Verlagsges. m.b.H. Tel: +43-1-740770, Fax: +43-1-74077888 Benelux KLM Media A sales division of MediaPartners, Tel: +31-20-5473600, Fax: +31-20-6475121 Britain Spafax Airline Network Tel: +44-207-9062001, Fax: +44-207-9062022 Denmark Jungersted og Brostrøm Tel: +45-33-222020, Fax: +45-33-229959 France Lagardère Global Advertising Tel: +33-1-41348115, Fax: +33-1- 41348216 Germany Lagardère Global Advertising Tel: +49-89-92 503532, Fax: +49-89-92503401 Hong Kong Emphasis Media Ltd. Tel: +852-25161000, Fax: +85225647271 Iceland Iceland Review Tel:+354-5127575, Fax: +354-5618646 Ireland Harmonia Ltd. Tel: +353-1-2405300, Fax: +353-1-6619757 Italy Lagardère Global Advertising Tel: +39-02-62694441, Fax: +39-02-62690010 Japan Media Communications Inc. Tel: +81-3-35232600, Fax: +81-3-35232606 Kazakhstan Hand Made LLP Tel: +7272-921848, Fax: +7272-921848 Korea Ahn Graphics Ltd. Tel: +82-2-7664582, Fax: +82-2-7436402 Middle East/Dubai Intermedia Tel: +971-4-3422112, Fax: +971-43421896 Netherlands Antilles Fixt Tel: +599-9-4658822, Fax: +599-9-4658822 Portugal Ilimitada Media Internacional Tel: +35-121-3853545, Fax: +35-121-3883283 Singapore Emphasis Media Ltd. Tel: +65-6-7358681, Fax: +65-6-7335681 Spain GDM Gerencia de Medios Tel: +34-91-5365500, Fax: +34-91-5365555 Sweden/ Norway DG Communications Tel: +46-8-7970300, Fax: +46-8-7975315 Turkey Media Ltd. Tel: +90-212-2755152, Fax: +90-212-2759228 United States Redwood Custom Communications Tel: +1-212-8963843, Fax: +1-212-8963848
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THE TRAVEL ISSUE
Contents
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16
The art of travel
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Jane Szita investigates our desire for travel and finds out what drives us to explore what the world has to offer
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Time zones zo
In a flash
If time travel were possible, where
Jan Zwart is one of Holland’s top travel
would you go to and why? With this
photographers. As well as showcasing
thought on our m minds, we take a look at
some of his best shots, he tells us the
some top time travel tra quotes
stories behind capturing the images
10 Facts and figures
44
Bite-sized info
12 In the picture
All you need if you’re on the go
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Different people travel for different reasons. Find the best holiday to suit your style, from historic sites
24 Extreme sailing
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An Eritrean adventure
38 A tale or two Your best travel stories
Touchdowns The ultimate city guides
Getting flighty
Top spots
Gadgets
Updates What’s on in The Netherlands
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Point and shoot Get the perfect pic every time
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Travel facts & figures Words: Jeanne Tan
15,070 km Travelling a distance of Photos: Midnight Sun Solar Race Team; Royal Caribbean International
15,070 kilometres through Canada and the USA, the Midnight Sun Solar Car Team from the University of Waterloo, Ontario, Canada, made history in 2004 with the world’s longest solarpowered electric vehicle journey. That’s almost 50 trips through The Netherlands from north to south.
626,960km
Happily diagnosed with a serious case of wanderlust, Swiss couple Emil and Liliana Schmid
began a road trip on October 16, 1984, and, well, they’re still driving – this time into the record books. They’ve covered 626,960 kilometres in their Toyota Land Cruiser since then, crossing 159 countries and territories in the process. And there’s no sign of them stopping!
The popular English literary classic Gulliver’s Travels, written
1726
by Jonathan Swift, was first published in 1726. Since then, it has never been out of print, and in 1996 it was turned into a
37%
In a recent UK survey, 55% of women admitted they have problems knowing what to pack
for a holiday, compared to 34% of men. And 37% of travellers
Emmy Award-winning TV series,
admitted to packing too much. How many shoes/trousers/
starring Ted Danson.
dresses/jackets/hairdryers have you brought with you?
5,400 PASSENGERS To be launched in late 2009, the world’s largest and most expensive cruise ship Oasis of the Seas is 360 metres long. Towering 65 metres above the waterline, this floating resort, which will accommodate 5,400 passengers, has seven neighbourhoods, its own “Central Park”, a football field and a 750-seat amphitheatre.
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Travel facts & figures
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1606 The first recorded European landfall on the Australian continent was made during the 1606 voyage of Dutch
5,072
Willem Janszoon on the
metres high
western shore of Cape York
Crossing the rooftops of the world between Golmud (China) and
in Queensland. Janszoon
Lhasa (Tibet), the Qingzang railway reaches its peak at 5,072
The Traveling Wilburys were
proceeded to chart some 320
metres above sea level. Around 80% of the world’s highest
a supergroup originally
kilometres of the northern
railway sits above 4,000 metres, also passing through the
consisting of George
Australian coastline, which
world’s highest railway tunnel at 4,905 metres. Windows are
Harrison, Jeff Lynne, Roy
he thought to be a southerly
fitted with special UV-filters to provide protection from the
Orbison, Tom Petty and Bob
extension of New Guinea.
sun, and oxygen levels in the carriages are carefully regulated.
Dylan. The band recorded
This error remained on Dutch
two albums during the two
maps for many years to come.
navigator and explorer
years they were together, from 1988-1990.
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No American road trip is complete without a cruise along Route 66. Starting in Chicago, Illinois and ending in Santa Monica, California, the legendary US highway crosses eight Photo: Car Culture/Corbis
states and three time zones. Estimated to be around 4,000 kilometres long, the last stretch of the road disappeared from “official” maps in 1984, although some parts continue to be in regular use. Most of the road signs have disappeared into the hands of souvenir hunters, though.
33.5 HOURS IN 1927 Rising to the challenge for the Orteig Prize in 1927, Charles Lindbergh became the first aviator to fly solo non-stop across the Atlantic from New York to Paris. He clocked in at 33.5 hours and took home the handsome $25,000 prize money.
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Mass transit If you’re looking for the ultimate wildlife adventure, watching the migrating caribou of Nunavut, Canada, has to be it. More than 500,000 caribou roam this Arctic land, and watching a herd of 50, 500 or even 50,000 of these creatures on the move is a sight to behold. They’re the only species in which both the males and females grow antlers, and they are well adapted for the cold environment as their short, stocky bodies store heat and their long legs help them move through the snow. They’re also good swimmers, as they often have to to cross large streams and rivers.
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Photo: Paul Nicklen/National Geographic Stock
500,000 CARIBOU IN NUNAVUT 965 KILOMETRES MIGRATION DISTANCE
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Majestic migration Their brains are no bigger than the head of a pin and their wingspans are no wider than a child’s outstretched hand, but what they lack in brainpower and size they more than make up for in determination. Each year, up to one billion Monarch butterflies head south to Mexico from Canada and the USA on an incredible 3,500-kilometre journey. They’re on a quest for milkweed, the plant they feed on, and warmth. Scientists believe the Monarchs have been performing this migration for thousands of years, but illegal logging in Mexico poses a serious threat to the species.
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Photo: James L. Amos/National Geographic Stock
3,500 KILOMETRES JOURNEY LENGTH 1 BILLION BUTTERFLIES ON THE MOVE
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Keep on moving What actually drives our desire to travel? Jane Szita searches for the answers If you were asked
Photo: Paul Huf/Hollandse Hoogte (1958)
what inspired you to take the trip you’re taking now, the chances are you wouldn’t cite your DNA. Yet modern science suggests that travel is in our genes. When our distant ancestors migrated out of Africa, around 60,000 years ago, it seems that they had more than their fair share of the so-called “adventure gene” DRD4 – more, anyway, than their cousins who opted to stay at home.
Identified in the 1980s, DRD4 is a genetic marker that controls the intake of dopamine by the brain’s reward centre, and is associated with all kinds of risktaking and novelty-seeking behaviour. Geneticists believe DRD4 has influenced multiple migrations, explorations and innovations in human history – as well as
launching a thousand whitewater rafting trips and Survivor-style TV shows in more recent times.
But genetic explanations haven’t stopped a host of philosophers, social scientists, psychologists and travel industry marketers from trying to uncover the less scientific reasons why we travel (or think we do). For example, in his book, Tourist Behaviour, Philip L. Pearce, a psychologist and Professor of Tourism at the James Cook University in Australia, surveys over 1,000 travellers from Western countries to discover their “tourist motivations”. The results suggest that the main reason for travelling is the quest for novelty, followed by the desire to escape everyday reality. The third motivation, TRAVEL Holland Herald
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How to travel Jan Morris, travel writer • Wherever you go, pretend to yourself that you have never been there before. • Remember that any experience, of any sort, even going to the dentist or losing a passport, is grist to the proper traveller’s mill. • Keep in mind E. M. Forster’s Photo: Paul Huf/MAI/Hollandse Hoogte
advice about the best way to see Alexandria – “To wander aimlessly about” - or Lord Salisbury’s theory of an ideal foreign policy – “To float lazily downstream, occasionally putting out a diplomatic boat-hook to avoid collisions”. • Don’t set out to see what other people see. • Take a sketchbook, not a camera. • Don’t be ashamed to go on a bus tour. • Travel alone. • Keep a sense of humour. • Learn how to listen. • Bargain fairly. • Learn some of the
the desire to strengthen a relationship with a travelling companion, seems at odds with the fourth, which is the desire to exercise autonomy. Experiencing nature is the fifth most important motivation for a journey, with selfdevelopment and stimulation sixth and seventh on the list.
exploring why we keep going places – and why our travelling experiences so often disappoint us (basically because we have to take ourselves, and all our mental baggage, along). “Only a few minutes with a holiday brochure can inspire us to travel thousands of miles in search of a
local language. • Be aware of the social and political situation of the country you’re visiting.
“A few minutes with a holiday brochure can inspire us to travel thousands of miles” “I think we travel because in the end, where we are deeply influences what sort of people we can be,” says philosopher and writer Alain de Botton. “We are not the same people in all places. A certain kind of wallpaper or smell deeply influences our character.” De Botton wrote a book, The Art of Travel,
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paradise with none of the discomforts and compromises of home,” says De Botton. He likens the illusory power of the experience to falling in love – potent, but ultimately no guarantee of happiness. To travel hopefully, as Robert Louis Stevenson once put it, really can be better than to arrive. Or as De Botton
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would suggest, to plan optimistically is often the best part of the trip. “Happiness is not as easy in reality as in anticipation,” he explains. “And much of the reason has to do with how complicated we are. We get grumpy and have conflicting wishes and are paranoid and anxious and tetchy. It’s hard enough for us just to feel comfortable in a chair in the sun – the experience can be spoilt by too much heat or too much shade, the noise of the hotel bar, anxieties about work or an unexpected desire for greater excitement.”
Photo: Krubner/ClassicStock/Corbis
LEFT: Summer holiday time on the beach (1953) RIGHT: A family station wagon and camping trailer hit the road (1960) BELOW: In front of the S.S. Queen of Bermuda (1949)
Finding ourselves in our dream location, but still occupying the tedious mental landscape of home, is the quintessential experience of De Botton’s travel world. Naturally enough, these private limitations are exactly what most travellers look to transcend, through what psychologist Abraham Maslow called “peak experiences” – those unforgettable moments capable of making us forget our usual niggling preoccupations. Another psychologist, Mihály Csíkszentmihályi, refers to such magical times as “flow”, that elusive mental state when mind and body seem to be in harmony, and attention is absorbed in the here and now. Travel, of course, abounds in such opportunities. travelling transcendence has been recorded in space voyages. Several astronauts have described the so-called “Overview Effect”, a blissful sense of universal connectedness in which the subject becomes profoundly and almost religiously aware of the synergy of all life in our universe. For terrestrial tourists, a similar if less intense sensation of
Photo: Genevieve Naylor/Corbis
The most extreme example of
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Photo: Genevieve Naylor/Corbis
RIGHT: Gaspe Peninsula, Quebec, Canada (1946) OPPOSITE PAGE: French actress Michèle Morgan and Italian actor Gabriele Ferzetti admiring the Mediterranean sea (1961)
Don’t forget... Michael Brein, travel psychologist • Become more conscious: often, travellers are cocooned in psychological cotton wool. • Experiment a little – get out of your shell. • Be open to other people.
oneness is pursued and often found in alien cultures, or in nature, in those “perfect moments” that raconteur Spalding Gray once claimed all travellers are seeking. As travel writer Jan Morris memorably put it: “Whole cities are mine, because I have loved them so.” Travel can make a place a part of us, through a kind of ecstatic symbiosis.
• Be a local: get to know the area where you are staying. • Sit at cafés. This is not a waste of time.
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But such rewards inevitably come at the price of many challenges, making travel the most paradoxical of experiences. “We travel, initially, to lose ourselves; and we travel, next, to find ourselves,” says Pico Iyer. Or as his fellow travel writer, Jeff Greenwald puts it: “Travel is a luminous practise of its own, a doorway into worlds both alien and achingly familiar.” In travelling, he says, we leave our comfort zones, making new insights and fresh thoughts possible. As George Santayana wrote in The Philosophy of Travel, “We need sometimes to escape into open solitudes, into aimlessness, into the moral holiday of running some pure hazard, in order to sharpen the edge of life, to taste hardship,
and to be compelled to work desperately for a moment at no matter what.” But travel has a less exalted function. The sector currently represents over 10% of global GDP, and forecasts indicate that the industry may double in size over the next couple of decades. As a pillar of the “experience economy”, first described in 1998 by James Gilmore in the Harvard Business Review, travel is one of the intangibles that we now prefer to use instead of material objects like sports cars and jewellery to signal our status. Travel has to be memorable and special: beachhopping by kayak in Brazil, hiking in the wilderness of Greenland, working on a conservation project in the Peruvian rainforest. A recent poll by a UK travel insurance company indicated that holidaymakers were even prepared to lie about their trips in order to impress other people, and 12% admitted to envying the travel escapades of friends.
According to travel psychologist Michael Brein, tourists are often motivated by issues of self-esteem. “The majority of people tend to live very
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Unfamiliar sights Alain de Botton, philosopher and writer “I’ve always had a problem with holidays as most people conceive them. I get nervous on beaches and bored in museums. My real interest lies in the infrastructure of modern society. I’m a fan of Photo: Paul Guglielmo/Apis/Sygma/Corbis
motorway service stations. I adore airports and train stations late at night. I like finding out about unusual bits of technology and recently followed a line of electricity pylons that carries two thirds of London’s electricity from Dungeness nuclear power station to an unknown substation in Dalston. I have plans to do a comparable journey tracing the
mundane lives,” he says. “Anything they can do to enhance their own image of themselves in the eyes of others elevates their sense of self-worth. We all want to feel better about ourselves.” Travel can boost our image and our ego. Anyone who has spent time in the company of ‘travel snobs’, with their obsessive interest in the relative luxuries of hotels and restaurants, and lack of curiosity about the world outside them, knows that travel can be a mainly material pursuit. But still there’s nothing like travel, even in a shrinking, globalised world, to
imagination, and what the traveller brings back is – and has to be – an ineffable compound of himself and the place, what’s really there and what’s only in him.” “When people travel well, when they make a leap of faith into the world – they find themselves indelibly changed. We are better people than we were before, with a larger, more satisfying world view. It feels good to evolve that way,” says Jeff Greenwald. He believes the best journeys have an unconscious motivation, which the journey then
single fat datacable that, unknown to most of us, carries the Internet from Europe to America via Iceland. “Unfortunately, this sort of holiday making doesn’t get much support. So, after years of joking about this, some friends and I have finally taken the fateful step of starting a holiday company, one dedicated to taking travellers around some neglected but fascinating aspects of the modern world. We now have a full programme lined up. For
“We are better people than we were before, with a larger, more satisfying world view”
example, the master photographer Martin Parr is going to teach us how to look at the world through his eyes and will be leading a group around the oft-derided aspects of the British
transform our interior landscape. If, like Alain de Botton, we can’t quite escape ourselves when journeying, at least we can transform our inner reality by enlarging our experience of life. “Travel,” says Pico Iyer, “is a voyage into that famously subjective zone, the
reveals. “People travel for a million different reasons,” he says, “but the motivation always comes from some place mysterious: an unanswered question hiding within themselves.” Ultimately, perhaps, we travel to find out why it is we are travelling.
seaside. And the travel writer Edward Platt is taking a group up the M1, pointing out the history of bridge and service station architecture along the way.” See www.theschooloflife.com or call: + 44 207 7833 1010. TRAVEL Holland Herald
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Adventure bound With so many different holidays on offer, how do you decide where to go? Here are some perfect trips for a range of travel personalities Hopeless romantic Sossusvlei, Namibia What’s the most unforgettable way to experience the Namib Desert? From above, of course! What could be more romantic than watching the sun rise over the rippling red sand dunes as you hover above in a hot-air balloon? Literally go any way the wind blows. You can also enjoy a champagne breakfast upon landing. WWW.NAMIBIATOURISM.COM.NA
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Road warrior Savannah Way, Australia Covering 3,700 kilometres from Cairns in Australia’s north-west to Broome in the north-east, and with parts only accessible by four-wheel-drive, this is more than a road; it is a journey of a lifetime (and may take you as long to complete). With so many attractions along the way, from deep, jutting gorges, to lush rainforests, rock pools, lava tubes, magnetic termite mounds and a giant plastic crocodile, you may have trouble keeping your eyes on the road ahead. WWW.TOURISM.AUSTRALIA.COM
Adrenalin addict
History buff
Iguassu Falls, Brazil Climb up or abseil down the vertical basalt banks of Iguassu Falls, or ride the rapids of the mighty Iguassu River – whichever gets your heart racing most. Or why not just do all three? All afford breathtaking views of the giant waterfall. Over three kilometres wide and 80 metres high, these falls are wider than Africa’s legendary Victoria Falls, and higher than Canada’s Niagara Falls. It’s no wonder that the former US First Lady Eleanor Roosevelt uttered “Poor Niagara!” upon seeing Iguassu.
Angkor Wat, Cambodia Exploring the ancient 12th-century temple complex of Angkor Wat, built for a Khmer king near Siem Reap, is like being in your very own Indiana Jones film. Enormous jungle roots grip the most delicate stone tableaux, while entire trees jut up through forgotten shrines. One of the first Western visitors was a Portuguese monk in 1586 who said, “It is not possible to describe it with a pen.” It is still impossible. The pictures speak for themselves. WWW.TOURISMCAMBODIA.COM
WWW.BRAZILTOUR.COM
Photos: Martin Harvey/Corbis; Frans Lanting/Corbis; John E Marriott/Getty Images; Cyril Rouso/Minden Pictures/National Geographic Stock; Paul Chesley/National Geographic Stock
Nature lover Rocky Mountains, Canada It is all about the view aboard the Rocky Mountaineer as the train winds through Canada’s majestic Rocky Mountains – one of the largest protected nature areas on the planet. Watch kilometre upon kilometre of pure wilderness unfold in an endless panorama right outside your window. WWW.CANADA.TRAVEL
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Strange
customs Exclusively written for Holland Herald by John S. Burnett
The old man in the boat slammed back the cocking lever on his assault rifle and pointed it first at me and then at my girlfriend. I figured I had better do what he said. He barked orders and the four others in the small boat below raised their guns. “You come! Come now!” he said in broken English
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Jacqueline and I had been sailing up the Red Sea to the Mediterranean on our 32-foot sloop, the Unicorn. It had been a hard slog, wind on the nose, short, steep seas; we could walk faster than we were sailing. We still had a few hours left before we expected to duck into a marsa, a break in the reefs through which the streams from the interior empty. I had my eye on the shimmering haze from the desert heat that was darkening quickly in the west. Slowly, the gusty and variable wind laid down, then vanished. “What is that?” Jackie asked. In the distance, a towering wall of dark cloud rolled toward us, sucking up the desert sand – not a squall line or a weather front, not a vertical twister from a tornado but an ominous groundhugging, solid-looking mass, that was churning, growing and swelling. A narrow entrance to the reef appeared just ahead and reading the colours of the water for depth on either side, we motored cautiously into the opening and up the winding river as the storm bore down on us. Minutes later, the wind struck with an almighty vindictive force, knocking our 12-tonne sailboat onto its beam-ends. The thick desert grit rasped our faces like sandpaper, stinging our flesh, working its way into our noses, mouths, hair and clothes. Swallowed by the storm, we disappeared inside a blinding, bilious-coloured cloud. The water turned a rich metallic grey-green and reflected an eerie greenish glow onto the yellow cloud. “Get below!” I shouted. “And throw me up my diving mask and snorkel.” Even with the mask, visibility now was no more than five metres and, with the river getting narrower, I killed the engine, stumbled to the bow and dropped the anchor. Finding some protection in the lee of the cabin, I kept an eye on the depth sounder praying our anchor was holding – that we wouldn’t be smashed against the reefs on either side. The drifting sand, driven by a shrieking wind, built up on the deck and against the cabin like snow in a blizzard. The deep yellow of our immediate atmosphere took on a reddish tint and, with the dry, hot, suffocating air, we wondered if this was not akin to sitting in the fires of hell. “Come down, get out of that thing!” she called up. “Can’t! Too much sand. Would ruin everything below.” The wind began to subside and visibility improved, revealing how close we had come to trouble. We had anchored in a bight of the small wadi and, had I gone much further, we would have run into the reef that was only a few metres ahead. So close was our bow to the land, I could have tossed the anchor onto shore.
“Swallowed by the storm, we disappeared into a blinding, biliouscoloured cloud”
I heard the motor boat before I saw it. The muffled sound of the outboard engine muted by the heavy dusty atmosphere was unnerving. This was Eritrea, a no man’s land, an unknown nation that had broken away from Ethiopia after a brutal 30-year civil war. As cruising sailors, we were not privy to government travel advisories and warnings but we did know the conflict had just ended, and while guns still bristled on either side, we didn’t think that a couple on a sailboat seeking refuge in a storm would represent any threat. But we were not sure. The boat appeared out of the haze, charging toward us at full throttle. Jackie saw it first. As I was bent over trying to shake the sand out of my hair, she grabbed my arm. “They’ve got guns,” she said quietly. TRAVEL Holland Herald
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EXTREME SAILING
There were five of them in the boat, each armed with a Kalashnikov, each wearing dusty white-robed djellaba and black-and-white checked kaffiyeh, the Arab headdress of the region. The driver of the boat, a rifle strapped over his shoulder, balanced himself on his only leg. As the aluminium boat banged against our hull, an old man, apparently their leader, grabbed onto the side of our boat and began shouting something unintelligible. I shrugged my shoulders and shook my head. Chewing leaves of qat, a mild narcotic, he stood back, unstrapped his gun and waved it fi rst at me and then at Jackie and shouted “You come! You come!” The others in the boat also pointed their guns at us and began shouting. “No, I stay with my boat,” I said. “We leave soon.” “You come!” “I won’t leave my wife. We go soon.” The old man, a slurry of green leaf dribbling from his puckered mouth, pulled back the cocking lever and his forefi nger began to massage the trigger. “You come!” It was when he lifted the barrel of the gun toward my face that I decided I had better go. “OK, I go. Jackie, if I’m not back within the hour, you call the embassy on the HF radio. And anyone else you can get on the frequency.” As we motored away, I turned and saw Jackie standing on the deck, bewildered and frightened, wondering if she would ever see me again.
collection of animal skin and mud wattle huts, and an occasional cement building. The pointed bow of a sunken patrol boat poked out of the water, its deck gun pointing skyward. A lone camel chewed on the beach grass. The men helped me out of the boat and marched me ahead of them, guns at my back. The old man walked silently beside me. A few children ran alongside and women in chadors and colourful sarongs emerged in the doorways and silently watched us pass. This village seemed to survive in spite of itself; the few cement buildings still standing had been heavily damaged by artillery or bombs, the walls scarred by bullet holes, and the one partially paved road that ran through town was cratered from what must have been a massive artillery barrage. “Tio,” the old man said, waving his hands over what was left of the town. “Tio, this Tio.” We walked down the road to an undamaged cement building with a rusting tin roof and a sandblasted white sign written in faded Arabic that teetered over the doorway. A large bronze lock secured a dented iron door. One of the guards behind me muttered something to the old man, the old man nodded and seemed to agree and the gunmen ambled away, their jobs done. He dug deep into his robe and pulled out a large old-fashioned key and slipped it into its lock. “You come. This office.” Inside, I was struck by unexpected daylight. The entire back wall was missing, apparently blown away by incoming artillery fire; from inside, the town lay before us.
“The driver of the boat, a rifle strapped over his shoulder, balanced himself on his only leg”
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Illustration: Pearson Scott Foresman
We were approaching what appeared to be a destitute little fishing village, a
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FUTURE EXTREME BUSINESS SAILING
Children, getting wind of the arrival of the white man, were gathering in the dust outside the open wall, chattering in hushed tones, not daring to cross a line into the room. I followed the old man through the sand that had been swept in by the storm, to a metal desk and straight-back chair. With the loose sleeve of his djellaba, he wiped sand off the chair and made a polite gesture for me to sit. With some evident pride, he took another key out of his robe and unlocked a drawer, pulled out a large leather book, opened it and placed it before me. “Kindly, you give passport,” he said. “You write there.” The last entry in the book was in Italian signed by a Giuseppe-someone nearly ten years before. I looked up at the old man; he nodded toward the book and tried to smile. I wasn’t certain but it looked like his eyes were misty, a little teary. I signed the book, entered passport number, expiration date, name of vessel, flag of registry and purpose of visit. The old man reached into the drawer and pulled out a rubber stamp. He rolled back his sleeve and with a proud flourish, stamped my passport. He closed the book with some care. He paused for a moment and stared at the tattered leather register as if he beheld a sacred object. With some reverence he returned it to where it had been resting those many years and locked the drawer. He shook my hand then led me out, locking the front door behind him.
“It was when he lifted the barrel of the gun toward my face that I decided I had better go”
The village children were waiting for us around the front. They laughed, pushing and pulling each other as excited and happy children will. Many, I noticed, were missing legs and as we walked back through the village they bounded along using forked poles as crutches. Few of these precious children were without the effects of the war. “Americani! Americani!” they shouted as they hobbled alongside. I felt like the Pied Piper – collecting more and more children who emerged out of the shadows, out of the dust, from around corners. Cautiously, the women came out and joined the procession. Some were shy, some perhaps a little scared, all fascinated by the sudden appearance of the foreign sailor. Where were the men? Of the hundred or so children and women, there were only about ten men, and they appeared to be approaching their dotage. Only children, women and the aged seemed to have been left alive in this village. Some research later indicated that Tio had been one of the most heavily mined villages in Eritrea; opposing forces buried landmines where civilians congregated: boreholes, school buildings, orchards, the beaches and camel grazing areas. The men were waiting at their boat, rifles slung over their shoulders, friendlier now. They motored me to the Unicorn where Jackie had turned into a bundle of nerves. Days later, officials in the commercial port of Massawa said they were amazed to see the Tio stamp in my passport; without communications of any kind, they didn’t think the town was still there. They had thought that it had been bombed out of existence. John S. Burnett is author of Dangerous Waters, Modern Piracy and Terror on the High Seas, Dutton/Plume, NY. Terreur op zee, Gottmer, NL. www.modernpiracy.com TRAVEL Holland Herald
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To infinity and beyond... QUOTES ABOUT TIME TRAVEL
“If time travel w were possible, w we’d be inundated w with tourists from th the future” Stephen Hawking, author and scientist Step
“I don’t want to travel through time. I don’t like meeting my heroes, because I am always disappointed by who they are in real life. So I prefer to travel to the past by reading what people of the past wrote for us, and to travel into the future by working to keep humanity viable and smart” Douglas Rushkoff, writer
“This is what makes time travel possible: the Flux Capacitor!” Dr. Emmett Brown, Back to the Future
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“M “Man... can go up against gravitation in a balloon, g and why should he not a hope that ultimately he h may be able to stop or m accelerate his drift along a tthe Time-Dimension, or even turn about and e ttravel the other way” H.G. Wells, The Time Machine H.
“If we could travel into the past, it’s mind-boggling what would be possible. For one thing, history would become an experimental science… The possible insights into our own past and nature and origins would be dazzling… it’s certainly worth exploring” Carl Sagan, NOVA interview, October 12, 1999
“Time is the worst place, so to speak, to get lost in” Douglas Adams, The Hitchhiker’s Guide to the Galaxy
Illustrations: Carolyn Ridsdale
“Each time you fly from North America to Australia, a day is taken away from you when you cross the International Date Line. All I know is that for one 24-hour period in the history of Earth, it appears I had no being” Bill Bryson, In a Sunburned Country
“Time is a companion that goes with us on a journey. It reminds us to cherish each moment, because it will never come again” Captain Jean-Luc Picard, Star Trek: The Next Generation TRAVEL Holland Herald
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Life through a lens Dutch travel photographer Jan Zwart wanders the earth searching for the perfect images to show off all the wonders the world has to offer. He talks us through some of his favourite shots TRAVEL Holland Herald
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TRAVEL PHOTOGRAPHY
PREVIOUS PAGE: “I stumbled upon this landscape in
Ambalavao, Madagascar, and even though it’s perfect on its own, I thought I needed some people in the scene. I jumped in my car and went to the nearest town and found a woman to come to the site with me. A whole group of people followed behind the car, and these kids just wandered into the scene. These moments are the reason I love photography so much.” LEFT: ”I did a series on the dreams of children while working for an aid agency in Colombia. This young boy, Diego, really stood out. He had no father and was dirt poor, his mother worked as a nurse and she had brought home an old stethoscope for him to play with. His determination was inspiring and he said his dream was to become a doctor one day.” RIGHT: “This photograph was taken in Nizwa, Oman, and has great symmetry and graphical lines. I was waiting and waiting for a donkey or a camel to pass by, then these guys stepped into the frame in perfect rythmn with each other. I also like the trunk of the palm tree on the left-hand side and the shadows of the leaves on the right.”
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TRAVEL ECUADOR
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TRAVEL PHOTOGRAPHY
“I was working on a commercial project in Hanoi, Vietnam, and when everyone else had gone home I decided to stay a bit longer and do some shots for myself. I headed to Halong Bay hoping to capture it on a perfect sunny day and was very disappointed with the weather, but when I looked at it again, I realised the magic that the fog brought to this scene. I was pretty pleased with this photo in the end.”
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09-02-2009 10:51:45
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09-02-2009 10:51:55
TRAVEL PHOTOGRAPHY
LEFT: “Angkor Wat in Cambodia is filled with twists and turns and little areas to explore. It was an extremely hot day and there were lots of international tourists visiting, as well as lots of local couples having their wedding photos taken. I suspect these gentlemen were part of one of the wedding groups by the way they were dressed, and when they went inside to escape the heat, I followed them and managed to get this image.” ABOVE: “The enormous natural spaces of the Okavango Delta in Botswana are truly awe-inspiring. The area where the water is lying is normally a road, but it had flooded and the water added great reflections to the already beautiful landscape. I was exceptionally lucky to be able to get so close to the lions.”
The photographer Dutchman Jan Zwart worked as a fisherman, banana farmer, service station attendant and foie gras producer before becoming a professional photographer in 1986. He has worked as a photographer in places as diverse as Antigua, Argentinia, Australia, Brazil, Botswana, Canada, China, Colombia, Costa Rica, Dubai, Egypt, Fiji, Hong Kong, Haiti, Hawaii, Ireland, Kazakhstan, Libya, Madagascar, Mali, Niger, Oman, Panama, Papua New Guinea, Sri Lanka, Syria, Suriname, Turkmenistan, Venezuela and Zanzibar. www.janzwart.nl See page 54 for top tips on how to create your own travel photos. TRAVEL Holland Herald
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TRAVEL ECUADOR
Your travel Hundreds of Holland Herald readers entered our Very Short Travel Story Competition. Here are some of the judges’ favourites, along with the winning entry Camp Alaska
“I am mesmerised by whales in their sensual water dance and come face-to-face with a moose and her twin calves” 38
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of a human toe] and watch puffins struggle to take flight, their bellies filled with fish. I am mesmerised by whales in their sensual water dance, come face-to-face with a moose and her twin calves, and eat halibut cooked on an open fire on a beach watched over by eagles. I touch glaciers, hike through forests like fairylands and learn to kayak on a journey through a fjord that makes me believe I have entered a place where God dwells. I return, exhausted by awe. “Alaska!” they say. “How wonderful! Did you cruise?” “No,” I reply, “I went camping”. And as their looks of surprise turn to horror, I smile my secret smile. AREANA EIVERS, OSLO, NORWAY
Illustrations: Unit/Yke Schotten
“Alaska!” they say. “How wonderful! Are you doing a cruise?” “No,” I reply, “I’ll be camping,” and then, as their surprise turns to horror, I add, “in a tent.” Thirteen strangers, from different countries, we’re crammed into a mini-bus for three weeks. I share a tent with a German woman whose only words to me are: “Hold the pole,” as we construct our tent each day. It is a heatwave and I have a backpack filled with jeans and fleece. I wake up in pools of water and develop welts where mosquitoes have swarmed. But I also watch a sunset over mountains so majestic I am moved to tears. I “drink the toe” in Dawson City [a cocktail containing the alcohol-preserved remains
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09-02-2009 10:58:28
tales The Usangi Express
“The sweet sugar sachets, the little hand wipes, the plastic cup that would hold my tea”
We get off the bus in Mwanga, Tanzania and fi nd the daladala, a large white van, to Usangi. Unfortunately, it is full. The three of us with our backpacks just can’t fit. We’ll have to wait for the next one. How wrong I am! We are waved over, squashed in, our bags find room on the roof and a couple of people even manage to get on after us. Our conductor is cute and energetic. His second-hand T-shirt says “Lakeside soccer” on the front and “Sarah D.” on the back. Unfortunately, after cramming the last passengers in, the dala-dala leaves without him. Maybe we don’t need a conductor because it’s a rural route or something. Wrong again. Just like an action hero, Sarah D. makes his way up the side of the speeding van and hoists himself feet-first through the window, a huge grin on his face. We go up the mountain road. I look at the drop-off and repeat my “I’m not going to die but if I do die, it’s OK” mantra. Sarah D. has the door open. He is laughing and pretending to push the van with his foot like a skateboard. We arrive in Usangi, thrilled with our dala-dala experience. Sarah D. hands us our bags and poses for the picture. I show it to him on the digital camera. “Asante,” he says, grinning. He thinks he has to thank us? How wrong he is… SUSAN RYAN
A plane thrill Why don’t people like airline food? I don’t understand it at all; I must be one of the few travellers who get hand-clappingly excited when I hear the clink of the food trolley coming down the aisle. My friends and partner think I’m mad and can’t see where my obvious excitement stems from. Receiving my little smorgasbord of goodies during my first long-haul flight, a life-defining, post-divorce, post-death of my darling dog, solo trip to Canada, must have set the precedent. I’m a regular flyer now, but wasn’t until that trip, and I think the liberating excitement of life to come peaked at that moment when the tray was laid before me, like a vision of my life ahead. Not knowing what was hidden under the tinfoil platter, what else would fall out of the neatly wrapped parcels of napkins, the sweet, sweet sugar sachets, the little hand wipes, the plastic cup that would hold my tea – or maybe coffee. Clearly this small, everyday occurrence for all you experienced travellers out there was a most symbolic moment for me. Not that I realised to what extent then, but it seems the moment lives on in the clinking of the trolley. MARY JANE GAFF
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TRAVEL STORIES
“My heart sinks: there goes my vision of stretching out over two seats!”
Love in the air I am first on the plane for a KLM flight from Amsterdam to Johannesburg. I am sitting in window seat 15A. The plan is to catch a fi lm and a bit of shut-eye before landing. The flight attendant tells me the flight is full. My heart sinks: there goes my vision of stretching out over two seats. A small boy is sitting in 15C. I wonder who will occupy 15B. A snorer? A talker? Please, no! Then a discussion: the child is standing, bags are moving and the stewardess is orchestrating the move like a seasoned choreographer. In place of the small boy is now a tall man, a blond Adonis with a ready smile, putting his bags in the overhead locker. I look up at him and say, “I think we’re going to be lucky…” These words are prophetic, but at the time I am referring, of course, to the seat between us. The doors shut and 15B remains unoccupied; the only free seat, as far as I can tell. We take off, and over the empty seat we strike up the best conversation of my life, spanning travel, literature and the virtues of chocolate. Somewhere over the Sahara, real magic happens; divine chemistry is at play. By the time we land, plans are being made. “Do you want to have dinner?” he says. “I do,” I say. Eight months later I face him, beaming, and say “I do” in a garden chapel in Africa. This is a KLM love story… and it’s all true! BREE O’MARA LEACH, KOSMOS, SOUTH AFRICA
Shanghai surprise I could not see the look on my own face when I stood with a complete taxi door in my hands in Shanghai. I may have some strength, but the experience of ripping a door out of a taxi was new to me. The driver overwhelmed me with a torrent of words, which I did not understand, but it was clear he was not pleased with the situation. After two minutes, the crime scene was surrounded by Shanghai inhabitants who were laughing themselves silly. What type of businessman am I? I felt helpless:
driver shouting, spectators enjoying this outdoor event. Suddenly there was a twist, the driver pushed me into his car, and carefully managed to put back the door. This was rather strange, how did he…? I started to feel relieved on my way to the hotel, until I saw the doorman who normally opens doors, including taxi doors. With wild gestures I tried to prevent this, but there it went again, a totally amazed doorman with a taxi door. The scene that followed was somehow familiar, the expression on the doorman’s face must have been the same as mine 30 minutes earlier. A tough discussion for compensation, lasting 15 minutes, followed. Starting with $100, the taxi driver finally agreed to $3. And off he went looking for new victims in business suits; his way of opening doors for a new car. Just another 1,000 or so customers to go. BENNO LEEMEIJER, HOORN, THE NETHERLANDS
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TRAVEL STORIES
Lost in Mali Having crossed the desert by Land Rover from Mopti via Douentza in Mali we arrived at the Bambara-Maounde river crossing at nightfall. There is no quay from which to embark onto the ferry; it drops anchor some 300 metres offshore and you drive out to it. About halfway out, disaster struck and we lurched over a precarious angle of 45 degrees. Water coursed through the open windows as we climbed out to assess the situation. We couldn’t move but help was soon at hand. A local in a battered old Nissan arrived and within 15 minutes we were pulled onto the waiting ferry. The following morning we rose early to clean the Land Rover before the sun had time to lift river water smells out of the carpet. While doing this my colleague let out a yell: “Oh no, the carrier bag containing our Cedis (Ghanaian currency) has gone.” Our mistake had been to stuff the bag under the front seat when we left Ghana. We had lost about €150. Three days later, we were back on the river’s edge returning from Timbuktu (having this time successfully disembarked from the ferry). Out of the morning sun appeared a Touareg herdsman. He came up, and said: “This must be yours!” and sure enough, there was our carrier bag full of damp Cedis. He was returning what for him was a fortune. Africa is full of good people. ALAN PENNY, CORNWALL, UK
“We were excited and breathless as we stood in line waiting for check-in to open”
Airport early birds Oh bliss… a well-earned holiday. We were excited and breathless as we stood in line waiting for check-in to open. There had been little sleep the previous nights, where rendezvous in the kitchen by moonlight were frequently accompanied by anticipatory whispering and giggling about the dream holiday. I distinctly remember desperately plundering immaculately packed suitcases to affirm the mandatory medical supplies (plasters, sunburn lotions of every description from homeopathic to anti-third-degree burn chemicals, tummy tablets etc.) Unfortunately, it was 4am and I had packed and repacked every conceivable item almost eight days beforehand! On the way to the airport my husband, as husbands tend to do, repeatedly asked, “Do you have the tickets, passports?” On receipt of a pained “Yes, dear,” the indoctrinated response was “Just checking, darling.” Hah! The infallible rock who had insisted on being responsible for our tickets in the past, was called five minutes before boarding, by airport intercom, to kindly come and collect his tickets, which had been found in the cigar section of duty free! This time I took charge, using my renowned multi-tasking skills and all the organisational talent necessary for managing a family of four and our business. So I felt confident all would run smoothly for once. We had even arrived two hours prior to check-in to secure the first position in line. Finally, the ground crew arrived and I proudly and competently handed in the tickets. The stewardess looked me intensely in the eye, smiled sympathetically and informed us we had arrived one week early! LISE FATEHALI JINNAH, BRITISH COLUMBIA, CANADA
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TRAVEL STORIES
S NG I N W IN
Y TOR
Mexican breakfast We’d driven all night to reach Saltillo, Mexico. The morning sun was gaining strength, reflecting off the stucco and adobe walls of the colonial city. No trees, no shade. We needed rest, so we parked by a door under a big, red Coca-Cola sign, and went into the tiny restaurant for some much-needed breakfast. We plopped down at the table, and in my high-school Spanish, I greeted our waitress, ordered some coffee and eggs and requested an ashtray. The waitress served us and then stood at the kitchen door, watching us and anticipating our every need. The cook stood behind, peering over her shoulder. While I dipped my yolk, I commented to my friend on the sparseness of the restaurant, but he replied that the food was fine and the service couldn’t be beaten. We finished our food but needed a little more rest, so we asked for seconds on the coffee. We took our time, smoked some cigarettes, chatted and finally, when we felt somewhat refreshed, I asked for the bill. To our surprise, the waitress refused to give it to us. She said we were travellers, and she was happy to serve us. I insisted, I said this was a business and I was happy to pay for the excellent service and food. “No señor,” she said. “This is not a restaurant – this is our home!” When we stepped outside into the blazing sun, we found that a Coca-Cola sign hung over every doorway! DARION HUTCHINSON, TUCSON, ARIZONA
“In my high-school Spanish, I greeted the waitress, ordered some coffee and eggs and requested an ashtray”
Total recall It was just my father and me. It was so cold it was painful to breathe. But I kept following him and didn’t look back. I trusted him. It was probably very early in the morning; it was dark and the sky was about to turn blue, no sign of the sun yet. I felt my hands, they were cold and dirty and my throat was dry, but I didn’t complain, never did. My real fear was the snakes; I guess that is what gave me energy to keep moving fast. I asked him about it. He said it was possible, on the mountain there are snakes. He was very wise and never lied to me. I was sure we were very high already, probably higher than anybody ever was. That is what
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explorers do; they discover new paths and go higher and further. I asked how much longer, “We are almost there,” he said, and he waited for me to catch up climbing some big rocks. Suddenly, he stopped. He chose a place for us to sit and we looked back together. The view was amazing, the city was far away. Behind the mountains, the sun was rising, with all its beauty and charm. We’d done it, we were great. I was six years old back then. Twenty years later I keep looking for new paths, now it’s all over the world, but it never compares with the emotions of the first adventures. DALIA LASES FIGUEROA, GELDROP, THE NETHERLANDS
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09-02-2009 10:58:59
Holland_TTexpert_210x260_Eng:0
20.1.2009
10:00
Page 1
FUNCTIONS
Meteo - Relative and absolute pressure Altimeter - Altitude Difference Meter Chrono - Timer Compass - Azimuth (Heading) 2 Alarms Thermo Perpetual calendar - 2 Time zones Red backlight
More than a watch Tissot, Innovators by Tradition. Titanium, Scratchproof tactile sapphire crystal, Swiss ETA movement, Water resistant to 100m/330ft
www.tissot.ch
Gadgets Words: Pip Farquharson
1
3 2
4
1 Verdier Woody The iconic VW Kombi reinvented as a stylish, solar-powered, eco-camper. From €98,000 www.verdier.ca 2 Voltaic Generator This solar-powered device can fully charge a laptop from less than a day in the sun! From €382 www.voltaicsystems.com 3 Olympus FE-3010 A compact 12-megapixel digital camera, featuring Advanced Face Detection technology and a 6.9cm screen. From €149.90 www.olympus-global.com 4 Wenger EvoGrip S54 This ergonomic Swiss Army Knife comes with 18 implements which perform 31 functions. Just remember not to pack it in your hand baggage. From €190 www.wengerna.com 1
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Gadgets 1
E[a^ Oa\ [R @ shopping
72
Most siblings fight. Petra and Gitta opened a printing shop. They can print whatever you want on whatever you bring them, or you can choose from their exclusive collection of designs. Cute preprinted t-shirts/sweaters are also available.
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9[Wa
Sweet little shop with well-priced t-shirts and handmade prints, bang in the middle of the Nine Streets.
WESTERSTRAAT 77-SOUS (JORDAAN)
RUNSTRAAT 2 (JORDAAN)
2 AZUbQ^_Q [Z M
AZUbQ^_Q [Z M
AZUbQ^_ ` _TU^` Hipster embarrassment: wearing the same t as everyone else. Head straightt to Universe, where their tees custom-made, unique tee es will make you the coolestt laidback dude on the halff pipe. Even cooler, howfairwear, ever, is the shop’s fairwea ar, sweatshop-free policy. EERSTE BLOEMDWARSSTRAAT 13 A HS (JORDAAN)
4
3
1 Le Cool Amsterdam This weird and wonderful guide book series takes on the Dutch capital. It’s penned by Anneloes van Gaalen and designed by Lava. From €19.99 www.lecoolbook.com 2 Silhouette Titanium Sunglasses These shatter-proof and scratch-resistant lenses provide 100% UVA, B and C protection. From €175 See the Shopping Section 3 Samsonite Black Label by Viktor & Rolf The “Ladies Spinner” is just one of a range of playful creations by the Dutch design duo. From €600 www.samsoniteblacklabel.com 4 Aiptek Pocket Cinema V10 A fantastic mobile projector. From €299 www.aiptek.eu Only the Silhouette sunglasses are available on board selected flights. See our Shopping Section at the back for details.
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09-02-2009 11:03:38
HARBOUR VIEW
A WHALE OF A TIME
Beautiful by nature Majestic mountains, rainforests and all-round natural beauty make the largest city in Canada’s British Columbia, an outstanding place to visit. Enjoy world-class shopping, gourmet meals, top-class live entertainment, sporting events, theatre, outdoor adventure
DON’T MISS
and spectacular sightseeing. The city also provides quick and easy access to the Canadian
Rains supreme
Rockies. And you might even get to see an orca whale in the Pacific Ocean…
Stanley Park features 405 hectares of pristine rainforest adjoining Vancouver and jutting into English Bay. Highlights include the 8.8-kilometre Seawall, Brockton Point’s totem poles, and numerous pedestrian and cycling paths. A free shuttle bus criss-crosses the park in summer. (http://vancouver.ca/ parks/parks/stanley).
Holland Herald
Be a sport
TRAVEL
seafood markets in the world.
Side (1505 West 1st Avenue;
North Vancouver’s Grouse
Downtown features typical big
+1 604 7305040), or vegetarian
Mountain Resort (www.
city shopping, home to Canada’s
The Naam in Kitsilano
grousemountain.com) offers
trendiest shop, Holt Renfrew
(www.thenaam.com).
fabulous skiing, snowboarding
(www.holtrenfrew.com), and the
and skating in winter plus
West Coast’s most famous
hiking and mountain biking in
commodity at Salmon Village
summer. In the same area, the
(www.salmonvillage.com).
Capilano Suspension Bridge
Photo: Tourism Vancouver
POLE POSITIONS
46
WHAT TO SEE
HOW TO GET THERE
KLM Royal Dutch Airlines operates five direct flights per week to Vancouver
has drawn visitors since 1889.
WHERE TO EAT
International Airport from
Try to build a spacecraft at
Tantalising tastes
Amsterdam Airport Schiphol.
the H. R. MacMillan Space
Vancouver has a variety of
Centre in Kitsilano (www.
ethnic eateries, including the
Tourist information
hrmacmillanspacecentre.com),
well-known Kirin Mandarin
www.tourismvancouver.com
which has highly interactive
(www.kirinrestaurants.com).
displays.
South Granville offers everything
Looking for handy, up-to-date
from the high-end West (www.
travel information? Check out
WHERE TO SHOP
westrestaurant.com), renowned
KLM’s Destination Guide
Sea this
for its contemporary Canadian
pages – and book your flight –
Granville Island (www.
dishes, to Vij’s, the city’s most
on www.klm.com. Content
granvilleisland.com) is famous
popular Indian restaurant (www.
provided by Frommer’s
for its Public Market, one of
vijs.ca). For fresh, casual eating,
Unlimited © 2009,
the finest produce and
consider Go Fish on the West
Whatsonwhen Limited.
Photo: Flip Nicklin/Minden Pictures/National Geographic Stock
Vancouver TOUCHDOWN
São Paulo
TO MARKET...
Down South American way Brazil’s buzzing metropolis is one of the world’s great cities. Modern art galleries, choice cuisine, lively bars, and a vibrant nightlife all combine to make a visit an unforgettable experience, for all ages, tastes and pockets. And if the city gets too much, head out east – bounded by the Atlantic Ocean, São Paulo’s coastline has 622 kilometres THE BANDEIRANTES MONUMENT IN IBIRAPUERA PARK
of beaches.
WHAT TO DO
Choice culture
DON’T MISS and gourmet food at Casa
+55 11 36678334), or more
Rundown Luz is being
Santa Luzia (Alameda Lorena
sophisticated Lotus (Avenida
reinvented as a cultural hub,
1471; +55 11 38975000),
Nações Unidas 12551; +55 11
with the Pinacoteca do
and Brazilian artwork at
30437130).
Estado (www.pinacoteca.org.
Galeria Arte Brasileira
br) at its heart. There’s more
(www.galeriaartebrasileira.com.
art at the São Paulo Art
br). Decadent Daslu (Avenida
Museum (Avenida Paulista
Chedid Jafet 131; +55 11 38414000)
operates one daily flight to São
1578; +55 11 32515644) on the
in Vila Olímpia has designer
Paulo Guaruhlos International
edge of Bela Vista, while the
names.
Airport from Amsterdam Airport
One of Brazil’s best-regarded restaurants, fashionable and contemporary D.O.M. is located, along with most of the city’s choice eateries, in the Jardins district. Renowned chef Alex Atala (below) conjures up fusion dishes using local ingredients. Rua Barão de Capanema 549; +55 11 30880761; www.domrestaurante.com.br.
HOW TO GET THERE
KLM Royal Dutch Airlines
Schiphol.
city centre is home to many historical sights, such as the
WHERE TO BOOGIE
São Bento Monastery (Largo
Dance the night away
de São Bento) and the
What a dish!
Tourist information www.spturis.com
Municipal Theatre (Praça
Party lovers should head for the
Ramos de Azevedo; +55 11
busy bars in Jardins and
Looking for handy, up-to-date
33340001).
Pinheiros and all-night clubs in
travel information? Check out
Vila Olímpia. Start the night with
KLM’s Destination Guide
WHERE TO SHOP
cachaças (sugarcane liquor) at
pages – and book your flight –
What’s in store
Cachaçaria Paulista (Rua
on www.klm.com. Content
The Jardins district is home to
Mourato Coelho 593; +55 11
provided by Frommer’s
São Paulo’s upmarket stores –
38154756), then head to dance
Unlimited © 2009,
look for swimwear boutiques
club D-Edge (Alameda Olga 170;
Whatsonwhen Limited.
Photo: Corbis/Carloz Cazalis
Photo: Micah Wright/Lonely Planet Images
Photo: Lonely Planet Images
TOUCHDOWN
DELICIOUS D.O.M.
TRAVEL Holland Herald
47
Edinburgh
Photo: Hollandse Hoogte
TOUCHDOWN
A MAJESTIC HILL-TOP LOCATION
Highland fling The bustle of Scotland’s capital city sits in perfect contrast to the peaceful tranquility of the surrounding Lothians region. With the famous castle dominating the city Photo: iStockphoto
skyline, there is plenty to see and do. Discover world-class museums and galleries, take a tour on an open-top bus or visit the city’s zoo. From the world-renowned festival to top-quality restaurants and bars, not to mention fabulous GIVE EDINBURGH A WHIRL...
shopping, you’ll be spoilt for choice. WHAT TO SEE
DON’T MISS
Cheering sights
while original Scottish-designed
Town, there’s everything, from
The cobbled Old Town has
gifts are for sale at Concrete
organic to Middle-Eastern and
Picturesque Dean Village, just north of the New Town, grew around a milling community and has a well-documented history dating back to 1128. Edinburgh and the Incorporation of Baxters (Bakers’ Guild) operated eleven water mills here, and produced all the meal (grain) for the city and its surrounding villages. It is
landmark sights, including the
Wardrobe (50a Broughton
Indian, or opt for the panoramic
dramatic Edinburgh Castle.
Street; +44 131 5587130). Explore
views at Forth Floor
Take a light-hearted, child-
Old Town specialists like
Restaurant (Harvey Nichols,
friendly barrel ride through the
Royal Mile Whiskies
30-34 St Andrew Square;
production of Scotland’s
(www.royalmilewhiskies.com)
+44 131 5248350).
national drink at The Scotch
and Ragamuffin
Whisky Experience (www.
(www.ragamuffinonline.co.uk),
scotchwhiskyexperience.
or order a leather kilt from
co.uk), in the Old Town, before
Geoffrey (Tailor) Kiltmakers
operates four direct daily flights
exploring the medieval world
and Weavers
to Edinburgh Airport from
of the Real Mary King’s Close
(www.geoffreykilts.co.uk).
Amsterdam Airport Schiphol.
now a conservation area (http://deanvillage.org).
Centuries of fine art are on
WHERE TO EAT
Tourist information
display at the National
For all tastes
www.edinburgh.org
Milling around
48
Holland Herald
TRAVEL
KLM Royal Dutch Airlines
(www.realmarykingsclose.com).
Photo: www.visitscotland.com
DEAN VILLAGE: GREAT FOR GRAIN
HOW TO GET THERE
Gallery of Scotland
Old Town eateries like The Grain
(www.natgalscot.ac.uk).
Store Restaurant (www.
Looking for handy, up-to-date
grainstore-restaurant.co.uk) and
travel information? Check out
WHERE TO SHOP
trendy Outsider (15 George IV
KLM’s Destination Guide
Coffee and kilts
Bridge; +44 131 2263131) serve
pages – and book your flight –
In Broughton Street, friendly
new Scottish cuisine. Breathe in
on www.klm.com. Content
coffee boutique Artisan Roast
the sea air in Leith while tucking
provided by Frommer’s
(www.artisanroast.co.uk) offers
into fresh fish at Skippers
Unlimited © 2009,
ethically sourced coffee beans,
(www.skippers.co.uk). In the New
Whatsonwhen Limited.
Photo: Malherbe/LAIF/Hollandse Hoogte
GLODOK IN CHINATOWN
Jakarta
NATIONAL MONUMENT (MONAS)
Great place to meet Jakarta is the dynamic capital city of the Republic of Indonesia, a country composed of
DON’T MISS
more than 17,000 islands with a population of over 200 million. Comprising more than 300
All that jazz
ethnic groups, speaking 200 distinct languages and dialects, the Indonesian population
Not just for enthusiasts, the Java Jazz Festival invites lovers of all music to hear various musicians at the Balai Sidang Jakarta Convention Center this month. First held in 2005, the festival has gone from strength to strength. Check the website for up-todate details of 2009’s headliners but, at the time of going to press, Roy Ayers, Jason Mraz, Swing Out Sister and Oleta Adams were among the luminaries scheduled to appear (March 6-8; www.javajazzfestival.com).
exhibit incredible diversity in its linguistic, cultural and religious traditions. Jakarta is truly a ‘meeting point’ of representatives from across the archipelago. WHAT TO SEE
Indonesia at a glance
found in specialist shops all over
steaks in a revolving restaurant
Jakarta. Three centuries of
with great city views (Menara
See Indonesia’s provinces in
bartering have taken place at
Imperium 35th floor, 1 Jalan H.R.
miniature at the Taman Mini
Tanah Aban Market in Central
Rasuna Said Kav, Kuningan).
Indonesia Indah theme park
Jakarta, where street vendors
(www.tamanmini.com). A ticket
sell spicy snacks. Plaza Senayan
on the Thousand Islands Boat
in South Jakarta offers designer
HOW TO GET THERE
KLM Royal Dutch Airlines
Trips takes you from picturesque names and restaurants.
operates one daily flight to
Ancol Marina on a relaxing day
Jakarta Soekarno-Hatta
island-hopping (+62 21 6406166).
WHERE TO EAT
International Airport from
Indonesia’s complex past is on
Take your pick
Amsterdam Airport Schiphol.
display at the National
Any trip to Indonesia promises a
Museum (12 Jalan Merdeka
rich and varied culinary treat,
Tourist information
Barat; +62 21 3811551). Some
with blends of Chinese, Malay
www.jakarta-tourism.go.id
4,000 types of fish swim at Sea
and Thai flavours. Savour the
World, the largest oceanarium in past at Café Batavia, where the
Looking for handy, up-to-date
Asia (Ancol Amusement Park;
300-year-old dining room hosts
travel information? Check out
+62 21 6410080).
guests feasting on brunch and
KLM’s new Destination Guide
homemade ice-creams (www.
pages – and book your flight –
WHERE TO SHOP
cafebatavia.com). There’s sizzling
on www.klm.com. Content
Batik and bartering
Asian food on sale at the
provided by Frommer’s
Antiques and traditional crafts,
Mangga Besar Night Market,
Unlimited © 2009,
like batik and carvings, can be
while The Empire Grill serves
Whatsonwhen Limited.
Photo: Monica Morgan/WireImage
Photo: Malherbe/LAIF/Hollandse Hoogte
TOUCHDOWN
ROY AYERS JIVES IN JAVA
TRAVEL Holland Herald
49
‘PEIX’ (FISH) BY ARCHITECT FRANK GHERY AT PORT OLÍMPIC
Not just Gaudí… Spain’s second largest city has a glorious seafront location, ancient winding streets, world-class art and bustling late-night bodegas. There’s always something to see: jewels of home-grown Catalan architecture, markets that are a treat for the senses, treasures left
DON’T MISS
over from the ancient Roman and medieval city, parks where you can unwind… And don’t
Blue on view
forget to taste the myriad flavours of both local and international cuisines.
Barcelona’s superb Picasso Museum houses an exhaustive collection of the Spanish master’s early work, sprawling across adjoining Gothic palaces in the Old Town. Find youthful sketches from his formative years, sculpture, ceramics, and exquisite paintings from his Blue Period (Montcada 15-23, Ciutat Vella; +34 93 2563000; www.museupicasso.bcn.es).
WHAT TO SEE
Building sights
50
Holland Herald
TRAVEL
(Carrer dels Escudellers 14;
visits sleek boutiques on
+34 93 3023185) for traditional
Miró’s colourful masterpieces
upmarket Avenida Diagonal.
dishes amid a timeless, old-
on Montjuïc (Joan Miró
Passeig de Gràcia offers
world setting.
Foundation, Centre d’Estudis,
expensive leather handbags,
Parc de Montjuïc; http://
while quirky fashion and curios
fundaciomiro-bcn.org).
can be found in Barrí Gòtic.
Architecturally, Gaudí reigns
Photo: © Museu Picasso Barcelona 2009/Óscar Ferrar
sausage. Try Los Caracoles
Las Ramblas or view Joan
HOW TO GET THERE
KLM Royal Dutch Airlines operates six daily direct flights
supreme; follow the trail from La
WHERE TO EAT
to Barcelona Airport from
Sagrada Familia cathedral in
In a glass of its own
Amsterdam Airport Schiphol.
Eixample (www.sagradafamilia.
TAKE A PEEK AT PICASSO
and Eixample districts. A ticket
Explore the tree-lined boulevard for the Shopping Line bus
cat) to fantastical Park Güell in
Graze your way around
Tourist information
Gràcia. The Labyrinth Park in
Barcelona’s tapas bars where
www.barcelonaturisme.com
Montbau has a playful topiary to delicious morsels accompany get lost in.
fizzy glasses of cava flowing late
Looking for handy, up-to-date
into the night. Steaming dishes
travel information? Check out
WHERE TO SHOP
of paella are found in beach-
KLM’s Destination Guide
Cheese and curios
front Barceloneta, while the
pages – and book your flight –
From cheese and olives at La
twisted lanes of the Barrí Gòtic
on www.klm.com. Content
Boqueria Food Market (www.
ooze with Catalan flavours like
provided by Frommer’s
boqueria.info) in Las Ramblas
salt-dried cod, crisp, fried
Unlimited © 2009,
to designer temples in the Born
artichokes and rich chorizo
Whatsonwhen Limited.
Photo: Mel Longhurst/Camera Press
LA BOQUERIA FOOD MARKET
Photo: Dieter Telemans/Hollandse Hoogte
Barcelona TOUCHDOWN
TOUCHDOWN
Paris
QUEUE TO VIEW AT POMPIDOU
Photo: Garry Black/Masterfile
City of seduction The stuff of legend, chanson, cafes and romantic rendevous, this magical French capital delights on so many levels. Historic churches, grand edifices, languid bars and leafy parks all combine to produce an irresistible atmospheric mélange, distinctly and uniquely Parisian. Whether you are on a weekend break or a longer holiday, ESSENCE DE PARIS...
you will be hopelessly seduced by this city’s charms.
WHAT TO SEE
Foot paths
HOW TO GET THERE
(L’avenue de Saxe) sells fresh
KLM Royal Dutch Airlines
DON’T MISS
Walk along the Seine to the
foodstuffs on Saturdays and
and Air France together
Female focus
legendary Eiffel Tower (www.
Thursdays and Michel Chaudun
operate 12 direct flights
Créteil’s International
tour-eiffel.fr), modern art
(www.michel-chaudun.jp) makes
on Saturdays, 13 direct flights
museum Palais de Tokyo
heavenly chocolates near
on Sundays, and 15 direct
(www.tour-eiffel.fr) and Cité de
Les Invalides.
flights on Mondays through to
Women’s Film Festival (March 13-22) celebrates the growing canon of women’s cinema. Most of the key events are held at the Maison des Arts (MAC). The festival focuses on innovation and discovery, featuring first-time screenings and meetings with the filmmakers themselves (www. filmsdefemmes.com).
Fridays, to Paris Charles De
l’Architecture (www. citechaillot.fr). After visiting the
WHERE TO EAT
Gaulle Airport from Amsterdam
Louvre (www.louvre.fr), cross
A grand place to eat
Airport Schiphol.
the river for Impressionist paintings in the Musée
Dine in luxurious surroundings at
Tourist information
d’Orsay (www.musee-orsay.fr)
Les Ambassadeurs (www.
www.parisinfo.com; www.paris-
and sculpture in the Musée
crillon.com) on place de la
tourist-information.com
Rodin (www.musee-rodin.fr).
Concorde. Try garlicky snails off the Champs-Elysées at La
Looking for handy, up-to-
WHERE TO SHOP
Fermette Marbeuf (www.
date travel information?
Fashion to sing about
fermettemarbeuf.com). Traditional
Check out KLM’s Destination
and contemporary Basque
Guide pages – and book
Join the crowds in the Opéra
cuisine is served at Le Troquet
your flight – on www.klm.com.
district for both high-street
(rue François Bonvin 21; +33 1 45
Content provided by
and designer fashion in the
668900) and Chez L’Ami Jean
Frommer’s Unlimited
Galeries Lafayette shopping
(rue Malar 27; +33 1 47 058689)
© 2009, Whatsonwhen
centre. Saxe-Breteuil Market
near the Eiffel Tower.
Limited. LEADING LADIES
TRAVEL Holland Herald
51
Holland UPDATE
the age of 27 to his death in 1890. Omniversum, President Kennedylaan 5, The Hague; +31 70 3073456; www.filmvangogh.com
THE SOUL OF MOTOWN II Until April 26 A new show featuring the hits of the legendary label in its 50th anniversary year. Performances take place across The Netherlands. www.ruuddegraaf.nl
EXHIBITIONS MAN RAY: UNCONCERNED BUT
Keukenhof never fails to impress with its annual displays of gorgeous blooms. There’s a double celebration this year: the park marks its own
Ernest Hemingway
Blooming lovely
NOT INDIFFERENT Until April 19 A substantial overview of the work of Man Ray (1890-1976), from his personal estate. Fotomuseum, Stadhouderslaan 43, The Hague; +31 70 3381144; www.fotomuseumdenhaag.nl
60th anniversary, and showcases
LOVE! ART! PASSION! Until June 1
a specially cultivated tulip to
Seventeen artist ‘couples’ – including Frida
commemorate KLM’s 90th birthday
Kahlo and Diego Rivera – take the spotlight.
(see KLM News, page 59). KEUKENHOF
Gemeentemuseum Den Haag, Stadhouderslaan
March 19 to May 21; Stationsweg 166a,
41, The Hague; +31 70 3381111;
Lisse; +31 252 465555; www.keukenhof.com
www.gemeentemuseum.nl
PETALS ON PARADE
ELFSTENDTOCHT IN WARTIME
EVENTS TSAAR SALTAN March 6 to April 2 This Russian fairytale opera,
music, this festival takes place in Utrecht
Until June 7
(March 13), Enschede (14), and Eindhoven (15).
Film clips, photos and newspaper articles
www.cross-linx.nl
depict the influence the Second World War
with music by Rimsky
had on the ‘Eleven Cities Tour’, a beloved by the Dutch.
be performed by Opera Zuid
(TEFAF) is a veritable
Fries Museum, Turfmarkt 11, Leeuwarden;
treasure trove for art lovers
+31 58 2555500; www.friesmuseum.nl
(Dutch libretto and surtitles). www.operazuid.nl
Roman Empress
The European Fine Art Fair
at various locations across The Netherlands
and connoisseurs. MECC, Forum 100, Maastricht; + 31 42 3838383; www.tefaf.com
ROTTERDAM MUSEUM NIGHT March 7
GIGS AC/DC March 13, Ahoy (Rotterdam) Paolo Conte March 21, De Vereeniging
Around forty of Rotterdam’s
SOWETO SPIRITUAL SINGERS
diverse art galleries and
March 24 to April 18
Tina Turner March 21, 22 Gelredome
museums open their doors
Gospel straight from Soweto. Performances
(Arnhem)
after hours (until 2am) and
take place across The Netherlands.
Paolo Conte March 22, Muziekcentrum
lay on special tours,
www.ruuddegraaf.nl
Frits Philips (Eindhoven)
workshops and performances. www.rotterdamsemuseumnacht.nl
David Byrne March 24, Vredenburg (Utrecht)
Until September 30
Metallica March 30, Ahoy (Rotterdam)
A vivid film (in IMAX format) which traces the
Blurring the boundaries of classical and pop
Dutch artist’s life from his first canvases at
Holland Herald
•52_HH_Travel_Updates.indd 52
(Nijmegen)
VAN GOGH: BRUSH WITH GENIUS
CROSS LINX March 13-15
52
200-kilometre ice skating competition,
love, magic and miracles will
Info and tickets: www.livenation.nl
Photos: Man Ray: © Man Ray Trust c/0 Pictoright Amsterdam; Rotterdam Museum Night: Bas Czerwinski. TEFAF exhibitor: Charles Ede Ltd
TEFAF March 13-22
Korsakov, about hope and
TRAVEL
09-02-2009 11:23:42
Amsterdam UPDATE
Starry Night, and The Potato Eaters. Van Gogh Museum, Paulus Potterstraat 7; +31 20 5705200; www.vangoghmuseum.nl
BORN IN GEORGIA Until June 14 Contemporary art from Georgia in this pleasant, airy, modern museum, just outside Amsterdam. Cobra Museum, Sandbergplein 1, Amstelveen; +31 20 5475050; www.cobra-museum.nl
RESTAURANT
STRING ALONG WITH DOCTOR FAUST
NEVY
Time-travelling doctor Ingenious puppetry gives a new twist to the legend of Doctor Faust, who here journeys through time and across continents in a humorous adventure set to the music of Wagner, Offenbach and others. The 1½-hour performance uses a Dutch-language soundtrack, but the creative visual settings and
Open daily for lunch and dinner, this contemporary fish restaurant (formerly Onassis) – with panoramic views across the River IJ and an outdoor terrace – can be found just along the waterfront from Centraal Station. Chefs work their magic on the fruits of the sea, with a superb menu
musical accompaniment also carry the story through. Magical marionettes –
inspired by fish dishes from all over the
and not just for kids. THE AMAZING JOURNEY OF DOCTOR FAUST March 15, April 19, 26,
world. There’s also a small meat menu for
May 10, June 5; Amsterdams Marionetten Theater, Nieuwe Jonkerstraat 8; +31 20 6208027;
non-fish lovers.
www.marionettentheater.nl
Westerdoksdijk 40; +31 20 3446409; www.nevy.nl
choreographers Martin Schläpfer, Dominique Dumais and Hans van Manen.
This annual boat show is a
Muziektheater, Amstel 3; +31 20 6255455;
The Killers March 12, Heineken Music Hall
one-stop destination for all
www.muziektheater.nl
Franz Ferdinand March 13, Paradiso
your nautical needs. RAI, Europaplein 22; +31 20 5491212; www.hiswa.nl
10cc March 16, Carré
EXHIBITIONS
The Presidents of the USA March 20,
RICHARD AVEDON: PHOTOGRAPHS
Paradiso
1946-2004 Until May 13
Paolo Conte March 24, Carré
NEDERLANDS DANS THEATER I
The first major retrospective
March 4, 6, 7
devoted to the work of
The Second Person
GIGS The Prodigy March 4, Melkweg
Peter Bjorn and John March 26, Melkweg
The Netherlands’ lauded
influential New York
WEBSITES
contemporary dance group
fashion and portrait
www.expatica.com
performs William Forsythe’s
photographer Avedon since
Inside information for expats
Enemy in the Figure, Crystal
his death in 2004.
www.specialbite.com
Pite’s The Second Person,
FOAM, Keizersgracht 609; +31 20 5516500;
Cool and comprehensive restaurant reviews
www.foam.nl
www.underwateramsterdam.com
and a new work by Tero Saarinen.
Events and info galore
Muziektheater, Amstel 3; +31 20 6255455; www.muziektheater.nl
VAN GOGH AND THE COLOURS OF
www.amsterdam.info
THE NIGHT Until June 7
Useful tourist information
FOUR TEMPERAMENTS
Famous twilight and
www.lastminuteticketshop.nl
March 17 to April 5
nocturnal works by Van
Half-price tickets to events
Het Nationale Ballet performs George
Gogh from international
Balanchine’s dynamic Four Temperaments,
collections, including
REMEMBER! This copy of Holland Herald is
plus three world premières by renowned
Eugène Boch (left), The
yours to take off the plane.
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•52_HH_Travel_Updates.indd 53
Photos: Richard Avedon, self-portrait, 1980 © 2008 The Richard Avedon Foundation; NDT I: Joris-Jan Bos; Born In Georgia: Guram T. Zwilinger; Doctor Faust: Gitte Clemens
EVENTS HISWA March 3-8
53
09-02-2009 11:01:00
Picture perfect Whatever your destination, chances are you’ll have a camera with you. Whether it’s state-of-the-art or simply point-andshoot, with some hints, tips and a little practice, you’ll always get great shots WORDS: KEITH MARTIN
54
Holland Herald
TRAVEL
People eop p e and a d poses p 1. Be respectful of people, particularly
What to shoot 1. Don’t take too many photos of the same sort of thing. Some variety adds interest and pace to the collection of shots you’ll end up with.
2. Don’t hold back, though; as long as you have a big enough memory card you can take more photos than you plan to keep and go through them daily or at the end of your trip.
locals, when taking photos. Always ask if it is OK to start taking shots, smile a lot and show them the results. Also try to avoid posed shots.
2. If you’re travelling with family or friends, don’t forget to include them in your photos.
3. Avoid too many posed shots. A picture usually has more interest if it captures people doing something rather than standing awkwardly with fixed smiles.
4. Look for interaction between people. If you take a posed group shot, grab one before everyone is ready and also immediately afterwards.
5. If people are looking into the sun they’ll probably be squinting. Move to one side so they won’t be making strange faces.
6. When taking photos of people, consider everything in the scene. Walk or zoom closer and capture a head and shoulders shot. Alternatively, step back to include more of the surrounds.
3. Try taking close-up shots as well as normal scenic ones. Details like this add visual spice to a photo album.
4. Include things in your photo that give a feeling of where you are in the world.
5. Take a “memorable moment” photo every day. It’ll help you remember the best parts of your trip.
6. Composition is key. Follow the classic “rule of thirds”; don’t put your subject in the middle of the frame, place it nearer one side instead.
7. Sunsets can be spectacular, but look for reflections in water or something to silhouette against it rather than capturing just plain sky.
8. Take notes or grab pictures of things that will jog your memory when you look through your photos after your trip.
Equipment essentials 1. If your camera offers an Aperture Priority Mode you can use this to control the depth of what’s in focus, or “depth of field” in photography terms. Set the aperture (shown as an f-number such as f5.6) to a high number (for example f11 or higher) to keep as sharp as possible, or set it to a low number (under f8) to blur distant backgrounds behind your subject.
2. If you can control the camera’s “flash sync” speed, try setting it to 1/15 of a second rather than the normal 1/30 or 1/60. This uses more available light, so you get less harsh results.
3. The on-camera flash is harsh and unforgiving. Wrap some layers of tissue paper loosely around the flash head or hold some paper or
translucent white plastic in front to soften the effect.
4. When facing bright lights – sun, spotlights and so on - watch out for lens flare. Move to place the camera out of the direct light or shade the lens with your hand.
5. Digital cameras need batteries. Plan ahead and charge overnight so you don’t run out, or carry spares if it takes disposables. Reviewing shots on the camera’s display is the fastest way to eat battery power, so avoid this if your battery is running low.
6. If you’re going to be on the beach, use a sealable plastic bag to protect your camera from sand and water.
AND FINALLY... Taking pictures of other people isn’t a problem in most parts of the world, especially if you’re in a public place, but be aware of local differences as well as people’s feelings. A really important thing to remember is not to let taking pictures get in the way of enjoying your trip. Unless you’re a professional travel photographer the photos aren’t the reason why you’re there!
TRAVEL Holland Herald
55
Photo contest
WOUTER VELTHUIS: MOAI STATUES ON EASTER ISLAND
See the world! How does it work?
Don’t be late…
There’s a new theme every three months.
Entries for the Landscapes category must
At the end of the fourth quarter (March
be received by April 3, 2009. See our
2009), KLM will award the Grand Prize to the
website below for submission details.
If you provide the year’s best shot, you’ll be globetrotting before you can say “where did I put my passport?”
What can you win?
overall winner.
Feeling inspired? What theme?
Check out other beautiful shots from
For January, February and March 2009, the
previous winners at:
theme is Landscapes.
www.hollandherald.nl
THE GRAND PRIZE A round-the-world ticket for the annual, overall winner CONTEST RULES • Photographs larger than 10x15cm cannot be accepted • Photographs will not be returned • Holland Herald, KLM and the publishers, MediaPartners Group, accept no responsibility for lost material • Copyright clearance and permission of subjects are the responsibility of the photographers. KLM and MediaPartners Group acquire the rights for future use of the images. • The competition is open to readers of Holland Herald who are 18 years of age or older on the date of entry, and who have flown with KLM during the same period as the theme category • Entrants for the Grand Prize will be notified as soon as possible after the closing date of the theme category • Employees of KLM and MediaPartners Group, participating promotional agencies, contributors to Holland Herald, and the families of any of the above are not eligible to enter this competition • The judges’ decisions are final • The Grand Prize cannot be exchanged for cash.
ANDERS HAALAND AANO: BAOBAB TREES IN MADAGASCAR
56
Holland Herald
•56_Travel_Photocomp.indd 56
TRAVEL
09-02-2009 10:54:52
KLM NEWS
Travellers Check NEWS AND INFORMATION FOR PASSENGERS
1960 Commercial passenger jets made foreign travel more affordable, but it remained an occassion worth dressing up for.
Photo: KLM / MAI
contents Hartman Quarterly KLM news People & planet Flying Blue news KLM partners
58 59 61 63 64
www.klm.com The fleet KLM route maps Schiphol, hub gates Fit for flying
65 66 68 75 81
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09-02-2009 10:28:06
KLM HARTMAN QUARTERLY
The travel bug Long before the invention of the aircraft, man fantasised about flying. In Greek mythology, Icarus tried to escape from Crete with wings of wax and feathers, but met his end in the Aegean Sea after flying too close to the sun. In the 15th century, Leonardo da Vinci used the concept of birds’ wings to design ‘flying machines’ – although, unlike the unfortunate Icarus, his creations never got off the ground. Sporadic attempts at man-made aviation followed, but it was only in 1903 that the American Wright brothers successfully made the first controlled flight, using a motorised engine. In the century that followed,
dynamic transport hubs. Far from it – prior to 1928, Schiphol didn’t even have an asphalted apron! When it rained, KLM employees carried passengers to the aircraft to prevent them getting stuck in the mud. And onboard toilets? These were only introduced after 1924. Mass tourism was born It’s quite amazing that, despite all of this hassle, people were still in love with air travel. And I haven’t even mentioned the prices. A return trip from Amsterdam to Batavia would have cost, in today’s prices, around €25,000. But the trip did take nine days, in each direction. It’s clear that, back then, flying was only for the wealthy few. Big changes came in the late 50s and early 60s, with the introduction of the jet engine and the larger capacities that it afforded. With the arrival of the Boeing 707 and
“A return trip from Amsterdam to Batavia would have cost, in today’s prices, €25,000” the aviation industry, quite literally, took off. In 1920 – one year after KLM was founded – we provided our passengers, on flights between London and Amsterdam, with a leather coat and gloves, a flying cap and goggles, earplugs, life vest and a hotwater bottle. Service-oriented without doubt, but judging from this equipment list, you can imagine the harsh circumstances. Airports too, in as far as they existed, were nothing like today’s
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the DC-8, world cities were suddenly reachable within 24 hours. Mass tourism was born. The introduction of different seating classes with different price tags made flying accessible for more and more people. Today, KLM transports some 23 million passengers and, together with Air France, we reach 258 destinations in 110 countries every year. With our SkyTeam partners these numbers grow to a staggering 462 million passengers, 905 destinations and 169 countries. Flying has become the most normal thing in the world, for all of us. Of course it brings with it sustainability challenges, which we take very seriously. Just as seriously as we consider our passenger needs. Whilst we won’t carry you to the plane anymore, we will carry out our promise to provide you with a journey of inspiration.
PETER F. HARTMAN, PRESIDENT AND CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER, KLM ROYAL DUTCH AIRLINES
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KLM NEWS “More routes, more choice, more fun”
Let’s be direct... Move on Martinair
With the launch of KLM cityhopper’s new destination Liverpool - starting
fourth largest economic region will be
Starting on May 3, Calgary, Canada’s
on March 29 - Europe’s 2008 Capital of
served by one flight per day from
KLM now has 100% ownership of airline Martinair. This move will reinforce
Culture will be just over an hour away
Amsterdam, five days per week. Calgary
from Amsterdam. Birthplace of the Beatles,
also lies at the heart of a strategic oil and
KLM’s strategic position in the airline
the city has continued to evolve into a
energy market. Arrival times have been
industry and will extend its network and
cultural and architectural jewel and is also
planned with the needs of business
services to its customers.
a most interesting destination for
passengers in mind. As a holiday
business travellers. KLM’s extensive
destination, Calgary serves as the perfect
network will seamlessly connect Liverpool
starting point to explore the Rocky
with over a hundred destinations
Mountains. The scheduled service will be
worldwide. We will be operating three
operated using Airbus A330-200
daily flights for complete flexibility.
equipment.
mark this achievement, a selected flower grower has created ‘Tulipa KLM’, a new tulip which exactly represents our business: strong, modern and unpretentious! ‘Tulipa KLM’ will be christened on April 7. Keukenhof is open between March 19 and May 21. For further details, visit www.keukenhof.com
JUST ONE OF LIVERPOOL’S MANY HIGHLIGHTS
Photo: www.AllCanadaPhotos.com
KLM turns 90 as the Keukenhof gardens in The Netherlands, famous for its millions of flowers, turns 60. To
Photo: John Launois/Hollandse Hoogte
Double celebration
BOOM TOWN CALGARY
Don’t forget New rules from the US authorities now require all non-immigrant passengers visiting the USA under the current US Visa Waiver Program (VWP) to obtain authorisation prior to travelling to the USA. This is done via the ESTA website https://esta.cbp.dhs.gov. Passengers will receive ESTA approval electronically through the website. Applications via the website should be completed at least 72 INSPIRATION FROM THE KEUKENHOF
hours before departure.
COMPULSORY REGISTRATION FOR THE USA
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09-02-2009 10:29:50
What makes them different from all the others? • BOSE patented noise reduction ®
dramatically fades distractions.
• BOSE patented TriPort ®
®
acoustic design delivers lifelike audio.
• BOSE patented ear ®
cushions maximize comfortable fit.
• High-capacity Lithium Ion
rechargeable battery for 20 hours continuous use.
• Includes an extra battery
• Compact, lightweight
plus international charger and adapter kit.
on-ear design for hours of comfortable listening.
QuietComfort 3 Acoustic Noise Cancelling headphones from Bose ®
®
BOSE QuietComfort 3 Acoustic Noise Cancelling headphones offer an unmatched combination of noise reduction, audio performance and comfortable fit for on-ear headphones. It’s this rare combination of benefits – the result of more than 30 years of research – that other manufacturers find most difficult to duplicate. And it continues to distinguish our QuietComfort 3 headphones from all other noise reducing headphones. Just put them on, turn them on, and you’ll hear the difference Bose technology makes. ®
®
®
®
REDUCE UNWANTED NOISE. Bose patented noise reduction fades distractions. With less unwanted outside noise, your world becomes peaceful. You’ll find flying more relaxing, in-flight movies will sound clearer, more realistic. Or you’ll get the peace and quiet you crave. Conde Nast Traveller wrote: “What you want to hear comes through loud and clear; the rest just fades into the background.” ENJOY MUSIC MORE. Use the detachable cord to connect your iPod or to listen to in-flight music and enjoy ®
Flying Blue members can earn Miles ordering QuietComfort 3 headphones. Visit www.boseflyingblue.com ®
more of the details that make your music so enjoyable. And also when you listen to music at home or in the office, our US patented TriPort acoustic design delivers a lifelike audio performance and a bass response you wouldn’t imagine possible from headphones. “The QuietComfort 3 sonic signature is rich and expansive” says Stuff. Try them – and we think you’ll agree. ®
®
EXPERIENCE A UNIQUELY COMFORTABLE FIT. Bose patented ear cushions, our choice of lightweight materials and minimal clamping all add up to a fit that stays comfortable for hours: a real difference you won’t find in conventional headphones. PC Advisor says “The extra comfort makes them great for long flights”. And you’ll enjoy them on even the longest flights: the integral Lithium Ion battery guarantees 20 hours of continuous use – and with a spare battery and international charger/ adapter kit you’ll enjoy them wherever you land, too. CALL AND ASK ABOUT OUR RISK-FREE 30-DAY TRIAL. This allows you to experience these headphones for 30 days on your next trip, in your home or at the office – satisfaction guaranteed. If you aren’t delighted, simply return them, at our expense, for a full refund. But prepare to be impressed: “Once you’ve used them” says The News of the World “you won’t want to use anything else.”
For further information visit
www.bose.eu Dutch customers can call ✆ 0800 267 34 44
*Delivery subject to product availability. Price subject to change without notice. Risk-free refers to 30-day trial only. ©2009 Bose Corporation. All rights reserved. Quotes reproduced with permission: Conde Nast Traveller: 2007; Stuff: Dec 06; PC Advisor: 01/2007; The News of the World: 08/2006
BOSE_qc3_210x260_NL_H-Herald.ind1 1
29-01-2009 15:12:02
KLM PEOPLE & PLANET
Fighting HIV and AIDS KLM AirCares sponsors four different children’s charities each year. By contributing resources and communications support we also help to raise awareness for these causes.
Climate of change Water is something most of us take for granted. But as the world population increases and weather patterns change, estimates predict that, by 2025, 48% of the world’s projected population will be living in areas with water shortages. Some of which will be in Europe. On the ground, KLM implemented water-
DANCE4LIFE HELPS TO FIGHT HIV/AIDS
saving measures many years ago, but we
Around half of the HIV infections
can also save water in the air, where around
discovered each day are among young
25 million litres of water (equivalent to
people under 25. Dance4Life offers a
178,000 full bathtubs) are used each year.
unique approach to help prevent HIV/
On intercontinental flights, around
calculate the amount of water to be carried on that particular journey. Tanking this exact amount saves millions of litres per year. In addition, the weight saving uses less fuel and saves around 17 million kilograms of CO2 emissions annually.
“17 million kilograms of CO2 less per year” For European flights, many short trips make it more difficult to estimate water consumption in advance. We’re currently
AIDS worldwide, and has reached
three hours before take off, previous
developing a system to make this complex
almost 500,000 people in 20 countries
consumption data is combined with the
calculation and help us save emissions and
since its start in 2004.
exact number of passengers in order to
water on these flights too.
The Dance4Life teams connect with young people using dance, music, and a language and spirit that inspires and unites them, breaking down taboos regarding sexuality, and HIV/AIDS. Dance4Life aims to start the
Stepping into solar energy Saving energy doesn’t stop at the door of KLM cityhopper’s new EMBRAER 190. Passengers will now exit the plane using revolutionary, solar-powered loading steps. Solar panels on the roof convert daylight into electricity which is stored in batteries, allowing
programme in another 14 new countries
the steps to be used even when it’s dark. The steps themselves are made from sustainable
to inspire and educate over 600,000
materials and use the latest in energy-saving LED lighting technology.
young people about HIV/AIDS, and mobilise 200,000 new young people to take action to stop the spread of the diseases. For further information about Dance4Life, or to donate money and/ or Flying Blue Miles, please visit the KLM AirCares website www.aircares.nl or click on the Flying Blue link at www.klm.com. To make a donation during this flight, please see the details on the last page of our Inflight Boutique tax-free shopping section. SOLAR PANELS MAKE LIGHT WORK
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22/05/08
15:09
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Exceptional moments for valued customers. Whether you’re traveling to discover new places, enjoy family weekends or on business, it’s essential to make the most of every second. With the benefits that the Flying Blue frequent flyer programme offers, you become a privileged customer, recognized by AIR FRANCE and KLM and every SkyTeam alliance airline.
to explore, a stay in a luxury hotel, or countless other ways to spend your Miles, the choice is yours. As you travel more and more with us, we reward your loyalty by multiplying the services you can enjoy, to make every trip a moment that stands apart.
Thanks to our network of over 900 destinations, every trip is a new opportunity to earn Miles. With over 130 partners worldwide, there are lots of ways to enjoy your Miles. Whether it’s a flight to a destination you’ve always wanted
To sign up, please take a folder out of the racks onboard or ask the cabin crew. You can also sign up online at klm.com or airfrance.com
Photo Credits: Steen Sundland.
Mile s
KLM FLYING BLUE NEWS “A truly global perspective”
Flying Blue Easter bonus Celebrate the spring blossom with Sofitel Luxury Hotels “Easter Escape”. From March 15 to April 30, 2009, treat your family to four nights of unlimited elegance and refinement. This Flying Blue offer brings you: -Four nights for the price of three -Guaranteed late check-out -A chocolate surprise Visit www.sofitel-afklm.com for further information. SOFITEL LYON BELLECOUR
Photo: © Fabrice Rambert
Photo: © Fabrice Rambert
-Triple Flying Blue Award Miles
SOFITEL BRUSSELS LE LOUISE
How to join... AIR FRANCE KLM’s loyalty programme, Flying Blue, allows you to earn both Level and Award Miles. Award Miles can be redeemed for
Don’t miss an opportunity Doing business in China and Africa can be as difficult as it is lucrative.
flights and other products. Level Miles
Join KLM Club China or KLM Club Africa to benefit from first-hand expertise and
count towards a higher membership tier,
share valuable information with these extensive networks of business professionals.
each offering different benefits such as
Sign up now and you could be the lucky winner of a ticket for an exclusive
access to airport lounges and extra
business event or an information video interview. Visit www.klm.com/clubchina
baggage allowance.
or www.klm.com/clubafrica.
To enroll, please take a brochure from the racks on board, ask the cabin crew or visit www.klm.com.
PHONE ON BOARD In the air, you can still be there. Discover how easy it is to keep in touch with phones on board KLM’s B747-400, B777, MD-11 and Airbus 330 aircraft. • For operation of the wall-mounted phone, see the placard on the wall below the phone.
Accepted credit cards
Info & Fun in the category Onboard. • Calls cost US$5.90 per 30-second
Upgrading made easy Our close association with SkyTeam adds a truly global perspective to your Flying Blue membership. Subject to certain
increment. There is a minimum charge
conditions, you can now exchange
of one minute per call.
Award Miles for an upgrade to the next
• Payment is made by inserting your
class of travel on any international
credit card into the side
SkyTeam flight! Visit the Flying Blue
your handset also acts as a phone.
of the phone and
pages at www.klm.com for further
See the onscreen instructions under
swiping downwards.
details about Award upgrade requests.
• If you have in-seat entertainment,
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09-02-2009 10:31:37
KLM PARTNERS
Our partners, your benefits KLM is a member of SkyTeam, an alliance of 11 airlines and 3 associate airlines. This offers you a
higher membership tier, each offering
largest airline group; together with KLM’s
different benefits such as access to
long-standing US partner, Northwest
airport lounges and extra baggage
Airlines, we guarantee you a perfectly
variety of benefits such as: 905 global
allowance. AIR FRANCE KLM is Europe’s
integrated network.
destinations; access to more lounges worldwide; a coordinated timetable for improved connections; and more opportunities to earn Flying Blue Level and Award Miles. Award Miles can be spent on flights, or with over 100 nonairline partners, such as Marriott and Hertz. Level Miles count towards a
KLM and its main partners Founded: 1926 / Home base: Minneapolis / St. Paul Fleet size: 356 / Passengers: 66 million WWW.NWA.COM Founded: 1919 / Home base: Amsterdam Fleet size: 243* / Passengers: 22 million WWW.KLM.COM * including KLM cityhopper, Martinair and transavia.com
Founded: 1933 / Home base: Paris Fleet size: 427** / Passengers: 52 million WWW.AIRFRANCE.COM ** including Régional, Britair, Cityjet and VLM Airlines
Other KLM partners Combined code-share and Flying Blue partners
Flying Blue partners
Code-share partners
You can earn and/or spend Miles with all SkyTeam alliance members and KLM’s Flying Blue partners in Flying Blue, AIR FRANCE KLM’s loyalty program. For detailed information visit www.klm.com or www.airfrance.com. A code-share partner means that even though you have booked a KLM flight number, you may find yourself travelling on a service operated by that partner.
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09-02-2009 10:32:55
WWW.KLM.COM “Add an element of surprise to your next trip”
Room for more
Destinations uncovered Whether you’re looking for inspiration or you’re ready to book, our handy online
Destination Guide offers up-to-date, out-of-the-ordinary information and practical advice.
Worried about excess luggage? You can
Featuring 100 countries, the guide
reserve extra baggage space on your
covers restaurants, shopping, nightlife,
flights via check-in at www.klm.com. By arranging this online, you not
events and things to do. It also has
only save time at the airport, you
practical tips about transport,
also save 30% on the normal charges
currencies, visa requirements and current weather forecasts. KLM e-services make your travel planning faster, easier
DESTINATION GUIDE’S HIDDEN GEMS
levied at the airport check-in desk.
Wanted: extra legroom
and more rewarding than ever.
Perhaps it’s a special occasion, or you
For example, you can relate your
simply want to treat yourself or a loved
travel experiences with a direct,
one? The solution: Economy Class
easy-to-use link with KLM
seating with extra legroom or just two
Customer Support. Via the “Contact
seats in a row.
us” button on the website, your
When checking in via www.klm.com
communication can usually be
these preferred seats can be reserved
handled within five days! KLM
for a small supplement.
offers a full range of services via
Available exclusively using our online
its website www.klm.com.
check-in.
Fly, drive and stay Did you know that, as well as booking flights, you can also make Photo: NH Hotel Constanza, Barcelona
a hotel reservation or rent a car via www.klm.com? KLM works with reliable partners such as Booking.com for hotel reservations, and Avis for car rental. Flying Blue members can earn up to 700 Award Miles per car rental, and are eligible for a free upgrade. RESERVATIONS MADE EASY AT WWW.KLM.COM
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09-02-2009 10:33:18
KLM PLANE FACTS Boeing 747-400
1920 May 17: the first KLM flight from London to Amsterdam.
1933 The Fokker F-XVIII Pelican sets a new record for the flight Amsterdam-Jakarta of four days, four hours and 35 minutes.
1934 October: the McDonnell Douglas DC-2 Uiver wins first prize in
22
the handicap section, and second prize
(Combi 17)
overall in the London-Melbourne Air
390,100
428
Race.
(Combi 396,900)
(Combi 280)
1946 KLM launches its scheduled
920
12,900
64.44
35,000 (Combi)
70.67
yes!
Boeing 747-400ER Freighter
service between Amsterdam and New York.
1960
KLM introduces the
McDonnell Douglas DC-8 into its fleet, marking the beginning of the ‘jet age’.
1971 KLM’s first Boeing 747B heralds the start of the ‘wide-body’ age.
4
920
12,900
1989 KLM is the first European
412,800
112,000
70.67
64.44
airline to introduce the new generation 747-400s.
Boeing 777-300ER
2001 KLM is the first European airline to introduce the next generation of 737-900s.
2003-2004 KLM embarks on an extensive fleet renewal programme.
Artwork KLM fleet: Hans Murris, KLM Engineering & Maintenance, SPL/WM
2005 KLM starts adding the first of
2
900
14,200
64.80
351,543
425
73.86
yes!
12 Airbus A330-200 aircraft to its fleet.
2008
KLM’s first two (out of a
total of six) Boeing 777-300ERs are
Boeing 777-200ER
put into operation.
Thanks to its efficient network, its modern fleet and many economical measures, KLM’s performance regarding fuel efficiency is one of the best in Europe. The website www.klm.com/ travel/csr_en gives full information
15
900
13,400
60.90
297,500
327
63.70
yes!
on KLM’s corporate social responsibilty and sustainable air transport activities.
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How big, how small, how far…?
KLM PLANE FACTS
McDonnell Douglas MD-11
10
880
11,400
51.96
280,300
294
61.21
yes!
Airbus A330-200
Boeing 737-900/800
10
880
10,700
60.30
233,000
251
58.37
yes!
5
850
4,600
35.80
21
850
4,200
35.80
76,900
189
41.91
73,700
171
39.47
Boeing 737-700
3
850
3,600
65,300
129
33.60
Boeing 737-400/300
35.80
13
800
3,600
28.88
10
800
2,850
28.88
62,800
147
36.45
56,900
127
33.40
Embraer 190
3
850
47,790
100
4,500
Fokker 100/70
28.72
36.25
Fokker 50
18
740
2,400
28.08
24
743
2,400
28.08
44,400
103
35.53
38,000
80
30.91
3,500
KEY
SCALE: 1 CM = 6.3 M
NUMBER OF AIRCRAFT
12 20,800
505 50
2,200 25.25
MAX. TAKE-OFF WEIGHT (KG)
TELEPHONE ON BOARD
WINGSPAN (M)
MAX. RANGE (KM)
CRUISING SPEED (KM/H)
LENGTH (M)
MAXIMUM PASSENGERS
MAX. FREIGHT (KG)
29
Fleet data information valid at magazine publication date
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09-02-2009 10:35:04
WESTERGASFABRIEK
KLM NEWS KLM MAPS AMSTERDAM
CENTRAL STATION
VVV AMSTERDAM TOURIST OFFICE ANNE FRANK HOUSE BEURS VAN BERLAGE WESTERKERK
NEMO MUSEUM
VAN PAMPUS ROYAL PALACE NIEUWMARKT MARITIME MUSEUM
DIAMOND CENTER GASSAN DIAMONDS AMSTERDAM HISTORICAL MUSEUM
ZUIDERKERK
REMBRANDT HOUSE WATERLOOPLEIN
FLOWER MARKET
HORTUS BOTANICUS
OPERA HOUSE
WATERLOOPLEIN JEWISH HISTORICAL MUSEUM
ARTIS
STADSSCHOUWBURG FOAM
KEY
MAGERE BRUG CARRÉ THEATRE WEESPERSTRAAT
TRAMLINE RAILWAY
RIJKSMUSEUM
RED LIGHT DISTRICT
VAN GOGH MUSEUM
MUSEUM DISTRICT JORDAAN HEINEKEN EXPERIENCE
IMPORTANT BUILDING
ALBERT CUYP MARKET
CONCERTGEBOUW
WIBAUTSTRAAT
RAILWAY STATION METRO STATION ZOO GENERAL ATTRACTION MUSEUM CHURCH THEATRE MARKET
(advertisement)
TOURIST OFFICE
Look at me A Brilliant Choice Nieuwe Uilenburgerstraat 173-175, 1011 LN Amsterdam T 020-6225333 F 020-6246084 E info@gassandiamonds.com I www.gassandiamonds.com
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76-77_TC_sep_airhubs-A.indd 76 77 TC sep airh bs A indd 76
Rokin 1-5 (Dam Square) 1012 KK Amsterdam, Holland T +31(0)20 6245787 F +31(0)20 6251220 E info@amsterdamdiamondcenter.com I www.amsterdamdiamondcenter.com Open 7 days a week and shopping nights
TRAVELLERS CHECK
10-08-2007 10 08 2007 16 16:12:22 12 22
SKYTEAM AIRPORT HUB GATES Amsterdam / Schiphol Airport, The Netherlands
B18 B14 B12 B10 B8
4
Gates B
M7
B19 B15 B11 B17 B13 B9
M6
H7
M5
Gates M
C14 to C21 - C26
C12
C16
Gates C
C10
C8
C15 - C18
C6
4
C5
D2 D4 D60 D8 D62 D64
D10 D66
3
Gates B-C, D 59-87, M
2
T5 T4
12
3
G7 G9
G4
3
Lounge 2
F2
T8
Holland Boulevard E2
D43 D73
3
G2
2
E4
Lounge 3
G6 G8
F3
T6
F4 E3
Gates G
F5
3
F7 F6
E6
E5
F9
Gates F 7
E8
E9
E18
E17
Transfer desk E20
Self-service transfer
Gates E
KLM Crown Lounge
F8
E7
E15
T
G3 G5
1 1
D41 D71
D42 D44 D72 D46D74 D48 D76 D52 D78 D54 D82 5 D47 D56 D84 D49 D77 D86 D51 D79 D53 D81 D55 D83 D57 D85 D87
Schengen
G11-16
6 Lounge 3 4 T9
D3 D5 D59 D7 D61 D63
Gates D
H1
3
8
Lounge 1 D14 D12 D68
H2
Schiphol Plaza
T2
Gates H
H4 H3
M1
C11
D16 D18 D22 D24 5 D26 D21 D28 D23 D25 D27 D29 D31
H5
4
M2
C7
C9
H6
M4 M3
C4
4
C13
KLM flights arrive at / depart from gates B, C, D, E, F. Air France and Alitalia flights arrive at / depart from gates B and C. Continental, Delta and Korean Air flights arrive at / depart from gate G. Northwest Airlines flights arrive at / depart from gate E. Czech Airlines flights arrive at / depart from gate D. For KLM passengers travelling to Antwerp (Thalys) and Rotterdam (NS): Please ensure you collect your luggage in Amsterdam and change your KLM (e-) ticket for a Thalys/NS ticket at the Netherlands Railways (NS ) desk at Schiphol Plaza (just past immigration).
to B22 - B29
Passengers with access to KLM’s Crown Lounges and who are transferring to European (Schengen) flights are kindly advised to use Crown Lounge 25, located near the Schengen gates behind passport control, when arriving on intercontinental flights.
E19
E22
Top Level Second floor
E24
KLM Crown Lounge
25
Gates D KLM Crown Lounge
52
Paris / Charles De Gaulle Airport Terminal 2, France Delta, Northwest Airlines and AeroMexico flights arrive at / depart from Terminal 2E. Korean Air flights arrive at / depart from Terminal 2C.
KLM and Alitalia flights arrive at / depart from Terminal 2F, gates F21-36. Air France flights arrive at / depart from Terminals 2A, B, C, D. E and F.
Continental flights arrive at / depart from Terminal 2A. Czech Airlines flights arrive at / depart from Terminal 2B.
TERMINAL 2E TERMINAL 2A
TERMINAL 2C C86-C87 C84-C85 C82-C83 C88-C89
C80-C81
T
C90-C91
E91-E96
A48-A49 A46-A47 A44-A45 A42-A43
A50-A51
T
T
E51 E76
3
3
3
4
3
3
4
3
T F41-F43
F21-F25
T
F56
T
F54-F55
F2
F44-F45
F49 F51
F26
F1
F27
Thalys/RER/TGV Railway station
TERMINAL 2F Schengen
3
2
T
T D74 D76
D53-D54
D72-D73
D55-D56 D57-D58 D61-D62 D64-D65 D70-D71 D60-D61
B33-34 B31-B32 B21-B22 B23-B24 B26-B27-B28 B29-B30 B25
F28
F33
F48 F52
T
F34
F47
F53
F36 F35
F46
2
3
3
4 4
A40-A41
TERMINAL 2D
F29 F32 F31
TERMINAL 2B
F30
F50
E80-E87
KEY Check-in
A1 Gate Numbers
Self-Service Check-in Passport control / Security check
Baggage Claim 4
Walking distance from point to point (average time in minutes)
T
Transfer desk Air France Lounge Transfer by train
3
Transfer by shuttle 3 outside Customs Area Transfer by shuttle bus inside Customs Area Transfer by shuttle bus inside Customs Area, only between 7:30am and 1:30pm
Holland Herald
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TRAVELLERS CHECK
75
09-02-2009 10:49:51
SKYTEAM AIRPORT HUB GATES Moscow / Sheremetyevo Airport, Russia Most domestic flights arrive at / depart from Terminal 1. KLM, Air France, CSA, Alitalia, Korean Air and Delta flights arrive at / depart from Terminal 2. Classic Lounge
TERMINAL 1
7 8
9
11
13
6
1415 16
12
17
5
TERMINAL 2
18 19
4 3
20
2
21
1
Mexico City / Lic. Benito Juárez International Airport, Mexico
1 4 5
3
2
7
2
3
T
8
4
1
1
4
6
10
11
12
14
1
3
4 13
2
15
16
17
18
29
1 28
4
1
T
30
36
1
31 21
19
22
23
24
25
26
34
27 32 33
9
20
TERMINAL 1
60 61 72
35
KLM, Air France and Northwest Airlines flights arrive at / depart from Terminal 1. Delta, Continental and AeroMexico flights arrive at / depart from Terminal 2. Salón Premier
59
58
57
56
71
73
69 74
55
67 70
65 68
53
3
54 52
63
5 66 64
4 1
TERMINAL 2
KEY Check-in Self-Service Check-in Passport control / Security check
76
Holland Herald
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A1 Gate Numbers T
Transfer by shuttle bus
Transfer desk Baggage Claim
Transfer by train 4
Walking distance from point to point (average time in minutes)
TRAVELLERS CHECK
09-02-2009 10:50:07
SKYTEAM AIRPORT HUB GATES Milan / Malpensa Airport, Italy Satellite A serves arrivals at / departures from all Schengen countries. Airlines on this pier are KLM, Air France and Alitalia.
TERMINAL 1
5 5
10
5
5
Satellite B serves arrivals at / departures from all non-Schengen countries. Airlines on this pier are Delta and Continental.
5
VIP Lounge
Satellite A
Satellite B
Rome / Fiumicino Airport, Italy KLM, Air France and Alitalia flights arrive at / depart from Terminal B. Delta, Continental and Northwest Airlines flights arrive at / depart from Terminal C.
5 10
TERMINAL A
VIP Lounge
5
TERMINAL C
5 5
TERMINAL B
Satellite
Prague Airport, Czech Republic Terminal 1, pier A (gates A1-A8) and pier B (gates B1-B9) serve arrivals at / departures from all nonSchengen countries. Airlines on these piers are Delta, Aeroflot, Kenya Airways and Czech Airlines. T
T
A3
A1 A2
A4
A5 A6
A7 A8
Gates A
T C1 C14
TERMINAL 1
B1 B10
TERMINAL 2
B3 B19
B2 B11 B5 B13
C3 C15
C4-C5 C17
C6 C16
B4 B18
B6 B14 B7 B15
C2 C12-C13
C8 C19 B8-B9 B16-B17
Gates B
C9 C21
Gates C
C7 C18
Lounge C10-C11 C20
Holland Herald
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Terminal 2, pier C (gates C1-C21) serves arrivals at / departures from all Schengen countries. Airlines on this pier are KLM, Air France, Alitalia and Czech Airlines.
TRAVELLERS CHECK
77
09-02-2009 10:50:23
SKYTEAM AIRPORT HUB GATES Minneapolis / Saint Paul International Airport, USA
B1 B3 B5 B7 B9 B11 B13 B15
LINDBERGH TERMINAL B Concourse D Concourse
D4
B2 B4 B6 B8 B10 B12 B14 B16
C Concourse D5
D3 D2 D1
C5 D6
C1
C3
C4
C7 C6
C8
C9
C10
C11
C14 C13 C12
C2
C22 C15 C17 C19 C21 C24 C26 C20 C16 C18 C23 C25 C27
A Concourse A1
A5
A3 A4
A2
A7 A6
A9 A8
A11 A13 A10 A12 A14
E4 E9 E5 E3
E7
E1
E Concourse (Lower level) F Concourse F5 F9
WorldClub Facility
F1 F3
F7
F11 F13 F15 F16 F14
First floor
International flights arrive at / depart from gates G1 to G9. Continental and Delta flights arrive at / depart from Concourse E. KLM flights arrive at / depart from Concourse G. Northwest Airlines flights arrive at / depart from all concourses.
F2 F6 F10
G22 G21
F4
F8
G9
G1
G10
F12 G3 G2
G5 G4
G7 G6
G8
G11 G13 G12
G15 G14 G16
G17 G19 G18 G20
G Concourse
New York / John F Kennedy Airport, USA TERMINAL 8
TERMINAL 7
TERMINAL 6
TERMINAL 9
KLM, Northwest Airlines, Continental, Continental Express and Czech Airlines flights arrive at / depart from Terminal 4. Air France, AeroMexico, Aeroflot, Alitalia, and Korean Air flights arrive at / depart from Terminal 1. Delta flights arrive at / depart from Terminal 3.
TERMINAL 5
TERMINAL 1
TERMINAL 4
TERMINAL 2
TERMINAL 3
Newark Liberty International Airport, New York, USA 136 137 138 139 128
135 134 133 132 131
A1
130
125 126 127 124 123 122
121 120
TERMINAL A 23 24 25
TERMINAL C
20
A2
102 104A 104B 106 108A 110A 108B 110B112A 112B 101 114A 103A 114B 103B 105 107A 107B 109 111 115A 113A 115B 113B
28 27
26A 26B
70
TERMINAL B
72 71 90
91
73
A3
92
94
74 93 80
82
B1
81
84
B2
B3
95
97 99
83
86
85 88
96 98
75
KLM, Air France, Delta, Czech Airlines, Northwest Airlines, Continental and Alitalia flights arrive at / depart from Terminal B. Continental (from / to Atlanta, Boston, Chicago, Dallas and Washington D.C.) flights arrive at / depart from Terminal A. Continental (from / to London Heathrow) flights arrive at / depart from Terminal B. Continental and Continental Express flights arrive at / depart from Terminal C. Presidents Club
87
WorldClub Facility
78
Holland Herald
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TRAVELLERS CHECK
09-02-2009 10:50:32
SKYTEAM AIRPORT HUB GATES Atlanta / Hartsfield-Jackson Intercontinental Airport, USA
B36
NORTH
C36
C35
A34
A33
B34
B33
C34
C33
D36
D35
T14
A32
A31
B32
B31
C32
C31
D34
D33
A30
A29
B30
B29
C30
C29
D32
D31
A28
A27
B28
B27
C28
C27
A26
A25
B26
B25
C26
C25
T12 T11 A24 T10
A23
B24
B23
D30
D29
D28
D27
D26
D25
C17
D24
D23
C15A
D22
D21
C15
D16
D15
C11
D14
D13
D12
D11
D10
D9
C24
C21
A22
A21
B22
B21
C20
A20
A19
B20
B19
C18A
T8
A18
A17
B18
B17
C18
T7
A16
A15
B16
B15
C16
A14
A13
B14
B13
C14
A12
A11
B12
B11
C12
A10
A9
B10
B9
C10
C7
A8
A7
B8
B7
C8A
C5
A6
A5
B6
B5
C8
C3
T2
A4
A3
B4
B3
C6
T1
A2
A1
B2
B1
C4
C9
E31
E30
E31A E29
E28
E27
E26
E14 E16 E18
E12 E15 E17 E10
T4
D8
D7
D6
D5
C2
D4
D3
C1
D2
D1
Crown Rooms (Delta Airlines)
E11
C7A
T5
T3
E33 E32
C23
T9
T6
SOUTH
E34 E36 E35
T15
T13
TERMINAL T
D38
KLM, Air France, AeroMexico and Korean Air flights arrive at / depart from Terminal E. Continental, Continental Express and Northwest Airlines flights arrive at / depart from Terminal D. Delta flights arrive at / depart from Terminal A, B, C, D, E and T.
E8
E9
E6
Presidents Club
E7
E4
E7A E5 E2 E1 E3
TERMINAL A
TERMINAL B
TERMINAL C
TERMINAL D
TERMINAL E
Houston / George Bush Intercontinental Airport, USA TERMINAL A North Concourse
TERMINAL B North Concourse
TERMINAL C North Concourse
C18
TERMINAL D North Concourse
C19 C17
KLM, Air France, AeroMexico flights arrive at / depart from Terminal D. Northwest Airlines flights arrive at / depart from Terminal B. Delta flights arrive at / depart from Terminal A. Continental Connection flights arrive at / depart from Terminal A. Continental Express flights arrive at / depart from Terminal B. Continental flights arrive at / depart from Terminal C, D and E.
C20 B79 B79A
A14
A15
A12
A11
A10
B81 A9 B81A
B80
A1
A2
C16
B86 B85A B77 B77A
C21 B85
C15
B87 C22
B84A B84B B84C
B76 B76A
C14
B88
A7
C26
C25
C24
C30
C31
C32
D6 D6A
D5
C23
B83 B83A
A8
D1
D2
D4 D3 D4A
C43
C44
C45
D7
D8
D9
D10 D11 D12
T
C27
B67
B68
B72
B60
B64
E24
C29 B69
B71A B70
B61
B71
B63 C33
E10A E10B
E1
B62 B62A
E12
E11
E14
E23
C34 C42 C35 C41 C36
TERMINAL A South Concourse
TERMINAL B South Concourse
E2
E9
E15A-E15B
E3
E8
E16
E21
E7A-E7B
E17
E20A-E20B
E4A-E4B
TERMINAL C C37 South Concourse C38 C39
C40
TERMINAL E E18A South Concourse
E22
E6
E5A E5B
Presidents Club
E19 E18B
Detroit / Metropolitan Wayne County Airport, USA B20 B18 B16 B12 B10 B8
B6
B4
B2
C2
C4
C6 C8 C10 C12 C14 C16 C18 C20 C22 C24 C26 C28 C30 C32 C34 C36 C38 C40
McNAMARA TERMINAL
KLM, Air France and Northwest Airlines flights arrive at / depart from Concourse A.
C43 B21 B19 B15 B11 B7
B5
B3
B1
C1
C3
C5
C7
C9 C11 C15 C17 C19 C21 C23 C25 C27 C29 C31 C33 C35 C37 C39 C41
Concourse B
Concourse C Tunnel
A6
A8
A10
A4
A72 A12
A18
A20
A24
A28
A30
A34
A36
A38
A40
A46
A50
A54
A56
A60
A64
A66
A68
A74
A76 A78
A70
A2
A77
A1
A75 A3
A5
A7
A9
A11
A15
A17
A19
A21
A23
A25
A27
A29
A31
A33
A35 A41
Concourse A south
A43
A45
A47
A49
A51
A53
A55
A57
A59
A61
A63
A65
A67
A69
A71
Delta, Continental and Northwest Airlines flights arrive at / depart from Concourse B and C.
A73
WorldClub Facility
Concourse A north
KEY Check-in Self-Service Check-in Passport control / Security check
A1 Gate Numbers T
Transfer by shuttle bus
Transfer desk Baggage Claim
Transfer by train 4
Holland Herald
•75_Hub Gates.indd 79
Walking distance from point to point (average time in minutes)
TRAVELLERS CHECK
79
09-02-2009 10:50:43
SKYTEAM AIRPORT HUB GATES Tokyo / Narita International Airport, Japan
Concourse C C87
C85
C83
KLM, Air France, AeroMexico, Delta, Continental, Korean Air, Northwest Airlines and Alitalia flights arrive at / depart from Terminal 1.
Concourse D C81
D91
D88
D93
D95
D97
WorldClub Facility
D99
T
D86
D98 C84
C82
D92
D94
D96
E80
TERMINAL 2 Concourse B B74
B73
B72
Concourse A B71
E60
T
A61
A62
A63
58
A64
57 56
14 15
Satellite 1
12
55
11A 11B
54 51
53
52
T 16
17
18
TERMINAL 1
22
21
T
Satellite 2
23
24
47
32 28A 25 2F
26
27
31
34
33
38
36
35
37
46 45 44
41
42
43
Seoul / Incheon Airport, South Korea
3
2
KLM, Air France, Korean Air, Northwest Airlines and Delta flights arrive at / depart from this airport. 1
50 49
6 7
Airline Lounge
48 47
8
T 9
46 10
45 43
11
T 25
29 26
12
42
T 27
28
30 14
41 24
15
16
31
40
39
32
23
17
38 22
18 19
20
33
21
37 34
35
36
KEY Check-in Self-Service Check-in Passport control / Security check
80
Holland Herald
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A1 Gate Numbers T
Transfer by shuttle bus
Transfer desk Baggage Claim
Transfer by train 4
Walking distance from point to point (average time in minutes)
TRAVELLERS CHECK
09-02-2009 10:50:53
KLM FIT FOR FLYING
Our handy hints can help you to stay feeling great both during and after the flight. Exercises should be performed slowly with steady, even breathing 10 TIMES
15 TIMES
30 TIMES
5 TIMES
15 TIMES
10 TIMES
Feet
Ankles
Knees
Shoulders
Legs
Back and arms
With your heels on the floor, stretch your toes upwards. Then keeping your toes on the floor, stretch your heel upwards.
Rotate your foot first in one direction and then the other.
Raise your leg, tensing the muscles of your thigh.
With your hands on your thighs, rotate your shoulders in a circular motion.
Bend forward slightly. Wrap your hands around your knee and raise it to your chest. Hold for 15 seconds.
Place both feet flat on the ground and hold in your stomach. Bend forward, moving your hands down your legs.
Relax whilst flying
During the flight
Reducing jetlag
Statistics show that flying is much safer
Ear pain? Pinch your nose shut,
Start adjusting your body clock to
than many situations in our daily lives
close your mouth and swallow or
the time zone of your destination the
The crew in control of the plane are
blow out against your closed mouth.
night before departure by going to
highly trained and experienced
Alternatively, chew gum
bed earlier or later
KLM aircraft are maintained and designed
Stimulate your circulation by walking
Don’t eat too heavily the night before
to withstand all sorts of turbulence
around in the cabin and stretching
you leave, or drink too much coffee or
Try to relax – breathe in deeply through
Avoid sitting with your legs crossed
alcohol
your nose, hold for three seconds and
as this restricts circulation
Eat protein-rich meals at times that
exhale slowly
Taking your shoes off might be
are normal for your new time zone
KLM partner, VALK Foundation, can offer
more comfortable
At your destination, take light exercise,
support to people with a fear of flying. Visit
Drink plenty of water and not too
such as a walk
www.valk.org or call +31 71 5273733
much alcohol, tea or coffee
Spend at least 30 minutes in daylight
HOUSE RULES All electronic devices with an antenna must be switched off completely throughout the flight. Mobile
Electronic equipment without an antenna, such as CD players,
are served to
laptops or electronic games,
passengers in their assigned seats. For
phones may be used
during cruise flight and ground-stop.
on board the aircraft
At all other times, please switch off
as long as the aircraft
and stow your personal
bar. Passengers are not permitted to
doors are open
electronic equipment if
drink alcoholic beverages brought
(unless communicated
the ‘Fasten Seat Belt’
on board with them.
otherwise by flight/
sign is on.
cabin crew).
may be used
Individual drinks
safety reasons, the purser may close the
Smoking on KLM flights is strictly forbidden at all times.
Holland Herald
TRAVELLERS CHECK
81
EU AIRPORTS
Hand baggage rules at EU airports To increase passenger safety, security rules for hand luggage are in place for all flights, in accordance with European Union regulations
Airport shopping in the EU Within the European Union,
Carrying liquids and gels in your hand baggage
liquids and gels that you purchase after passing through passport control, or on board the aircraft
When passing through security control, you will be required to present liquids and
will be packaged and sealed for
gels separately. Please follow the guidelines below.
you, together with the receipt. The unbroken seal is valid for
18-20 cm
24 hours.
Airport shopping outside the EU If you buy liquids or gels at a 20-22 cm
non-EU airport and change planes at an EU airport, your purchases will be confiscated at the EU airport security check. This can also happen for purchases you make on board an aircraft operated by an airline from a non-EU country. For further information visit www.klm.com
The plastic bag
Liquids, gels, pastes, lotions and
may not exceed
aerosols are not permitted in
Animal products
1 litre in volume
containers bigger than 100ml
To prevent the spread of animal diseases, you are prohibited from entering the EU with meat, meat
For use only during the flight, you may also take on board: Special diet food
•82_HH_1_2009_EU Airports.indd 82
permitted on arrival from Andorra, the Faroe Islands, Greenland, Iceland,
1 re-sealable
transparant plastic bag
Medication
Holland Herald
Small quantities for personal use are
Only
Baby food
82
products, milk and milk products.
per passenger
Liechtenstein, Norway, San Marino and Switzerland. For further information visit http://europa.eu.int.
TRAVELLERS CHECK
09-02-2009 10:53:36
To purchase any of our great products simply fill out this form, and hand it to a member of the cabin crew. Sit back and relax - your new purchase will be delivered shortly.
Tax
FREE SHOP
in the
AIR
Passenger Name Article no. Description
Quantity
Seat no. Flying Blue no. ❍ Cash ❍ Credit card ❍ Voucher This form can be handed in until 1 hour before landing, and can be used for night flights as well as for regular flights To purchase any of our great products simply fill out this form, and hand it to a member of the cabin crew. Sit back and relax - your new purchase will be delivered shortly.
Tax
FREE SHOP
in the
AIR
Passenger Name Article no. Description
Quantity
Seat no. Flying Blue no. ❍ Cash ❍ Credit card ❍ Voucher This form can be handed in until 1 hour before landing, and can be used for night flights as well as for regular flights To purchase any of our great products simply fill out this form, and hand it to a member of the cabin crew. Sit back and relax - your new purchase will be delivered shortly.
Tax
FREE SHOP
in the
AIR
Passenger Name Article no. Description
Quantity
Seat no. Flying Blue no. ❍ Cash ❍ Credit card ❍ Voucher This form can be handed in until 1 hour before landing, and can be used for night flights as well as for regular flights To purchase any of our great products simply fill out this form, and hand it to a member of the cabin crew. Sit back and relax - your new purchase will be delivered shortly.
Tax
FREE SHOP
in the
AIR
Passenger Name Article no. Description
Quantity
Seat no. Flying Blue no. ❍ Cash ❍ Credit card ❍ Voucher This form can be handed in until 1 hour before landing, and can be used for night flights as well as for regular flights
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Treat your biz to a bonus. Enrol on klm.com/bluebiz and earn free flights. BlueBiz is KLM’s company loyalty programme. Sign up now and your business will be given Blue Credits on every trip. On top of your Flying Blue Miles. You can redeem your Blue Credits for free flights, for business or leisure, for anyone in your company. Not enrolled? You should be. It’s free. Just take a look at our leaflet on board the aircraft or visit www.klm.com/bluebiz.
Advertentie_23Januari_UK.indd 1
10-02-2009 13:38:11
Discover how to y through an airport Change planes with ease, speed and comfort without changing terminals at Amsterdam Airport Schiphol.
031001137 Schiphol UK 210x260.indd 1
03-12-2008 11:54:07