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Great American Roads
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PREVIEW By Steve Kirchner, Editor & Publisher
elcome to the 2013 edition of Company in 1917. In 1927 the company’s gasoline was Great American Roads cover- being tested on U.S. Highway 66, when the test car achieved the incredible speed of 66 miles per hour. It age in Byways magazine. was then Phillips decided to name their fuel, Phillips 66. Each year Byways travels some of the In Minnesota, the North Shore Scenic Drive from most historic roads in North America. Duluth to the Canadian border, follows along the shore They all have some form of official desof Lake Superior. The shore is characterized by rocky ignation and have been recognized for cliffs, rolling hills and ridges, scenic rivers and waterfalls their role in our nation’s history. Some are designated official Scenic Byways, others are All American Roads. as they flow to Lake Superior. In New York, we experience the state’s Lakes to Locks All have something in common: some of the most specPassage, an All-American road located midway between tacular scenery you will find on any road in North Manhattan and Montreal. The road unifies the interconAmerica. nected waterway of the upper Hudson River, Champlain We begin the journey on the West Coast Canal, Lake George and on Oregon’s Columbia River Highway. The Rose Garden is part of Leif Lake Champlain. This This road has been lauded for its spectacErikson Park, on Minnesota’s waterway is the core of ular waterfalls and magnificent overlooks North Shore Drive. North America’s first “superof the Columbia River Gorge. It has been highway” between upstate called “the King of Roads.” New York and the Canadian In California, we take a coastal cruise province of Quebec. from San Francisco to Malibu on the legFinally, we visit Virginia’s endary Pacific Coast Highway. Officially Colonial Parkway. It only designated Highway 1, the highway takes takes about an hour to drive a twisting journey along the coastline to this famous road, but in that some of the most famous places you can time you’ll discover a part of visit: Monterey Bay and the Hearst America’s history that is Castle, the cliffs of Big Sur, coastal comtaught in every classroom in munities like Carmel-by-the-Sea and the United States. The Santa Barbara, the American Riviera with Colonial Parkway begins in its Mediterranean architecture and lavish Jamestown, where the gardens. There are roller coasters in Virginia colony was begun in Santa Cruz, wine country, redwoods, 1607 on the shore of the Cannery Row, Pebble Beach, Malibu and James River. The mid-point the Hollywood Bowl, just to name a few. is Williamsburg, where it It truly is an epic journey. tunnels under the historic Also in California, we travel California district of Colonial 190, the Scenic Byways to Death Valley. Williamsburg. The eastern part of the parkway is The road is the gateway to over 3.3 million acres of Yorktown, where General Cornwallis surrendered to expansive vistas, rare desert wildlife and the opportunity to experience the lowest point below sea level and the George Washington in 1781, ending the American Revolution. Not bad for an hour’s drive! hottest place in North America. What’s Happening features Louisville’s unique Mega Next, we tour Colorado’s Golden Belt Historic Cavern, and its new Mega Quest rope thrills in this monHighway, leading to North America’s greatest gold strous underground cavern. camp, three world-class fossil sites and numerous hisIn Colorado Springs, a new webcam brings breathtaktoric sites. In fact, the mines in the Cripple Creek Mining ing views and landmarks right to your computer, iPad or District produced more gold that the Alaska and smartphone. California gold rushes combined! We hope you enjoy this issue of Byways. In Bartlesville, Oklahoma, we learn about the Phillips brothers, and their impact on American highway travel. Frank and L.E. Phillips founded the Phillips Petroleum 4 • Byways
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Volume 30, Issue No. 5, 2013
Features
On the cover. Bixby Bridge in Big Sur, California. Great American Roads coverage begins on page 8 with the Historic Columbia River Highway. To learn more about California’s Pacific Coast Highway, turn to page 14.
Great American Roads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 Oregon’s Columbia River Highway . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 An Epic Coastal Cruise: San Francisco to Malibu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 Death Valley Scenic Byway . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 Colorado’s Gold Belt Tour & Historic Byway . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 Phillips 66 & Bartlesville, OK . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 Minnesota’s North Shore Scenic Drive . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 New York’s Lakes to Locks Passage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 Virginia’s Colonial Parkway . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38
Departments
Byways Instant Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 Byways Preview. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 Advertisers Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46 Free Byways Subscription . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48
What’s Happening
MEGA Quest opens in Louisville's underground: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42 Webcam Displays Breathtaking Geological Landmarks of Colorado Springs. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44
Coming in future issues of Byways…Leading North America Tour Destinations . . .Great American Railroads, Mountains and Valleys, and much more!
At right: Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. Join us as we celebrate the 150th anniversary of Arlington National Cemetary. Byways • 7
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Great American Roads
The Columbia River flows peacefully past Memaloose Island on a sunny day. A local pioneer named Victor Trevitt is buried on Memaloose Island.
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Oregon’s Columbia River Highway
ny way you look at it, the Historic Columbia River Highway Scenic Byway is a marvel—for its visionary engineering, incredible scenery, and rich history. Internationally lauded for spectacular waterfalls, architectural gems, and magnificent overlooks of the Columbia River Gorge, it’s no wonder this Byway has been called “King of Roads.” Construction of the Historic Columbia River Highway began in 1913, and was considered one of the greatest engineering feats of the modern age. Its engineer, Samuel C. Lancaster, did “not [want] to mar what God had put there,” and worked diligently to showcase the many waterfalls and other “beauty spots” on the highway’s route through the Columbia Gorge. There are numerous historic resources along the highway. In fact, the Historic Columbia River Highway, the first scenic highway in the U.S., is a National Historic Landmark. Samuel Lancaster certainly had a magnificent palette to work with. The Columbia River Gorge is 80 miles long and up to 4,000 feet deep, cutting the only sea-level route through the Cascade Mountain Range. Lava flows created the substrate and the Missoula Floods cut through this substrate much later to create the towering cliffs of columnar basalt that make up the Gorge. The 10 • Byways
Gorge includes 16 endemic plant species (those that exist only within the Gorge) and over 150 rare plant species, and is rich with animal life. The Historic Columbia River Highway Scenic Byway offers ever-shifting perspectives of the Gorge, including sweeping panaromas from 900 feet above the river. Hikers will delight in the many trails along the Byway, some of which lead to hidden waterfalls. As its name implies, the Byway is incredibly rich in cultural history. This stretch of the Columbia once served as fishing and meeting grounds for the many indigenous peoples of the Columbia Basin. The Dalles was a highly significant trading and rendezvous site throughout history and prehistory. Lewis and Clark’s Corps of Discovery traveled through the Gorge on the Columbia River on its way to the Pacific Ocean. Oregon Trail Pioneers also traveled down the Columbia River Gorge in the mid 1800s. The region’s rich history is preserved in several museums along the route. Troutdale and the Sandy To begin your journey from Portland, take Interstate 84 east to exit 17. Follow the signs through the quaint town of Troutdale and over the Sandy River to the Historic Columbia River Highway. In 1805, Lewis and
Clark camped along the banks of the Sandy, which ran gritty with ash from the 1802 eruption of volcanic Mount Hood. The road follows the Wild and Scenic Sandy River for several miles, then climbs past orchards and blueberry fields through the communities of Springdale and Corbett, offering glimpses of snow-capped Mount Hood. Gorgeous Vistas from Crown Point At the Portland Women’s Forum State Scenic overlook at Chanticleer Point, you get your first glance of the Columbia River and the Gorge: this is the vista that inspired the Highway’s founding father, Sam Hill. The stone guard walls and graceful arches are typical of the highway’s exquisite craftsmanship. The Vista House at Crown Point is an Oregon treasure, one of the most photographed and recognizable in the Columbia River Gorge. Built as a memorial to Oregon pioneers, it offers an inspiring view of the Gorge and the mountains of the Cascade Range. Unforgettable Falls To help motorists navigate the 600-foot vertical drop from Crown Point, Lancaster engineered a series of what’s known as “figureeight loops” that gracefully wind down toward the river. You’re soon surrounded by mossy tree limbs, the greenery enhanced by a series of remarkable waterfalls in the next five miles: Latourell, Shepperd’s Dell, Bridal Veil, and Wahkeena. Soon you’ll reach the granddaddy of Columbia Gorge waterfalls—
620-foot Multnomah Falls. Only three waterfalls in the nation are taller—and none is more beautiful. A trail from Multnomah Falls Lodge (built in 1925 and listed in the National Register of Historic Places) takes you to the lower cascade, then zigzags to the top. A little farther down the road, Horsetail Falls plummets close enough to the road to mist your windows. Before the Byway joins Interstate 84, at the community of Dodson, you’ll pass Oneonta Gorge, a botanical paradise with more than 50 species of plants that flourish in the damp, cool environs. Bonneville Dam to Hood River For the next 25 miles, you’ll leave the Historic Highway for modern—yet still beautiful—Interstate 84. The Gorge’s dramatic geologic formations are a highlight of this segment. Engineering and fishing buffs will want to visit the Bonneville Dam, the first structure to restrain the mighty Columbia. In nearby Cascade Locks, travelers can leave the car for a sternwheeler cruise of the Columbia. More intrepid watersports enthusiasts will want to take to the Columbia at Hood River. Here, the Gorge acts as a wind tunnel to create consistent breezes that have made this once sleepy orchard town the unofficial windsurfing capital of the world. From Mosier to the community of Rowena In the 12 miles from Hood River to Mosier, you’ll notice a dramatic change in the scenery. It’s here that the “two Oregons” meet. As you reach Mosier and the second leg of the Historic Columbia River Highway (off
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exit 76), the moist and lush western Gorge gives way to dry, eastern Columbia River plateau. Once a booming trade center, Mosier is still famous for its springtime blossoms, fat juicy cherries, and the community’s unrivaled passion for native plants. Just west of Mosier, you can walk or bike the Historic Columbia River Highway State Trail through the restored Mosier Twin Tunnels and on to Hood River. Elegant Mayerdale Estate appears unexpectedly on this rural stretch of the road. Look for Memaloose Island in the Columbia, a traditional burial site of Native American peoples of the Columbia Basin that was partially flooded following the construction of Bonneville Dam. Farther east, be sure to linger at the viewpoint at Rowena Crest, which affords sweeping Gorge views rivaling those of Crown Point, and access to the wildflower wonders of Tom McCall Preserve. The Dalles The Historic Columbia River Highway spans the extremes of Oregon’s landscape, from the damp and mossy western beginning along the banks of the Sandy River to the dry oak savannahs skirting Chenoweth Creek near the historic The Dalles. The Dalles was long a Native American gathering place and is rich in Oregon Trail lore. Before you leave the Historic Highway as you enter The Dalles, you’ll find the Columbia Gorge Discovery Center and Wasco County Historical Museum. Built as the interpretive center for the National Scenic Area, the Discovery Center has answers to all your questions about the Gorge’s history. At the Museum, you’ll learn about the earliest inhabitants and hear tales of the traders and settlers who came later. As your tour over the Historic Columbia River Highway 12 • Byways
comes to a close, consider beginning a new journey to the Lewis and Clark campsite at Rock Fort.
Lewis and Clark Trail In 1805, and again in 1806, the Corps of Discovery traveled through the Columbia River Gorge. Several important sites mentioned in the journals of Lewis and Clark can still be seen in this area. An interpretive sign located at Lewis and Clark State Park describes the naming of the Sandy River as the “quicksand” river. Additional markers are located at Rooster Rock, Cascade Locks and Rock Fort in The Dalles. Bonneville Dam A little more than 10 years after the Historic Columbia River Highway was finished, the face of the Gorge began to change dramatically. Bonneville Dam, begun in 1933, raised the water level significantly. The interpretive center that may be accessed from exit 40 on Interstate 84 highlights the history of the dam, and the fish ladder. Depending on the time of year you visit, you can watch salmon, steelhead sturgeon and other species from the dam’s fish viewing station. Best times for viewing are spring and fall. While the Northwest gained a powerful supply of electricity and flood control with Bonneville and later dams, it lost significant historic and prehistoric resources—most notably traditional Native American fishing sites that were so critical to their culture. The loss of these cultural sites—and the depleted salmon stocks—has had a lasting impact on the Native American communities.
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An Epic Coastal Cruise: San Francisco to Malibu
Alcatraz as viewed from Fisherman’s Warf in San Francisco. Photo courtesy Visit California. 14 • Byways
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Cannery Row in Monterey. Photo courtesy Visit Callifornia.
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An unforgettable drive along California’s spectacular coast.
rom the wild coastline of Northern California to Malibu beaches lined by celebrity homes, a drive along California’s iconic Highway 1 is one for the bucket list. Take a few days to savor this legendary road trip, also known as the Pacific Coast Highway (PCH). Head south from San Francisco on twisting coastal roads and stop at some of the state’s most unforgettable destinations, like world-renowned Monterey Bay Aquarium literally hanging over sparkling Monterey Bay, and Hearst Castle, the hilltop estate of legendary business magnate William Randolph Hearst. There’s natural splendor tracing the cliffs of Big Sur, where roadside turnouts might afford not just a beautiful photo, but spouting gray whales migrating between Alaska and Mexico. Pictureperfect coastal communities beckon throughout—from artsy Carmel-by-the-Sea and its storybook cottages to the “American Riviera” of Santa Barbara with its Mediterranean architecture and lavish gardens. 16 • Byways
San Francisco to Santa Cruz: Redwoods, wine-country, and roller coasters. Less than an hour from San Francisco, just off the highway along the San Mateo coast, relax on beaches hidden within rocky coves, or hike on trails with gorgeous views of waves surging into offshore boulders. Just north of the Santa Cruz County line, Highway 1 reaches Año Nuevo State Natural Reserve, one of California’s most remarkable wildlife areas. It’s home to northern elephant seals, which are aptly named for their mass (males can weigh 6,000 pounds/2,722 kilograms — as much as a sport utility vehicle) and trunk-like noses. Northern elephant seals nearly went extinct but a hunting ban helped their population recover. Isolated California locations like Año Nuevo provided sanctuary, and now their numbers have grown to 160,000. (You can also see elephant seals north of Hearst Castle at Piedras Blancas in San Luis Obispo County.) About 20 miles past Año Nuevo, Highway 1 reaches Santa Cruz. Thanks to the historic Santa Cruz Beach Boardwalk (home to the Giant Dipper, a vintage wooden roller coaster), the city has been a seaside escape for
Californians for more than a century. Santa Cruz also serves as a gateway to state parks where fog-shrouded redwoods grow to 300 feet/91 meters. It’s also a thriving wine region celebrated for pinot noir and chardonnay. And despite its chilly waters (averaging about 57°F/14°C year-round), the coast here is internationally renowned for surfing—particularly big wave surfing at world-famous breaks like Mavericks. Learn about local history at the Santa Cruz Surfing Museum, then watch surfers in action at Steamer Lane. Monterey to Big Sur: Fishing history, a stellar aquarium, and amazing coastal splendor. Highway 1 follows the sweep of Monterey Bay until it reaches California’s original capital city, Monterey. The city is filled with reminders of California’s Spanish and Mexican eras, most notably at Monterey State Historic Park, which preserves more than 400 years of history. Nearby Cannery Row blends tourist attractions, including an IMAX theater, with remnants of the 1900s sardine industry made famous by novelist John Steinbeck. Located on the site of Cannery Row’s last processing plant rises the must-see Monterey Bay Aquarium, which uses extraordinary exhibits and massive tanks filled with sea life to literally take you beneath the waves and into Monterey Bay’s rich and diverse marine world. From the aquarium, continue south along the coast past pretty and wild Asilomar State Beach to the start of the famous 17-Mile Drive, which winds past oceanfront estates and Pebble Beach’s legendary golf courses. Head into the charming town of Carmel-by-the-Sea to browse shops and galleries (the town has long been an artists’
Santa Cruz Beach & Boardwalk.
haven), and visit the elegant Mission San Carlos de Borromeo, dedicated in 1770 and one of 21 missions built along the California coast by Spanish padres. Beyond Carmel, the coast takes on a wilder character. First, there’s Point Lobos State Natural Reserve, lauded as “the greatest meeting of land and water in the world,” with granite coves where harbor seals and sea otters find shelter from the pounding surf, and Monterey cypress trees—so rare they only grow in one other place on Earth— cut handsome silhouettes against the sky. South from here, things get even wilder. Sweeping views take in the roiling ocean as massive fog banks (thickest in summer) veil the mountains. State park trails
The Hollywood Bowl. Photo courtesy Visit California.
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Seals relax at Malibu, Robert H. Meyer Memorial State Beach, La Piedra State Beach Photo courtesy Visit California.
let you escape into cathedral-like redwood groves, where waterfalls plunge into fern-lined grottoes or, at 70foot/21-meter McWay Falls in Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park, off cliffs to the beach below. Hearst Castle to Santa Barbara and Malibu: Opulent splendor to movie-star dazzle. After 30 miles/48 kilometers of Big Sur’s serpentine twists, Highway 1 flattens out across the ranchlands of San Luis Obispo County. Newspaper magnate William Randolph Hearst once owned much of this land and chose a commanding promontory for his dream estate, La Cuesta Encantada (The Enchanted Hill). Just about everyone knows it as Hearst Castle, and, by any name, it’s the grandest home ever built in the U.S. Tours lead through formal gardens and into 165 rooms filled with an eclectic mix of priceless art and antiquities. Past Hearst Castle, Highway 1 rolls past broad beaches and Morro Rock, the 600-foot/183-meter-tall volcanic outcrop dubbed “the Gibraltar of the Pacific.” By this point, you may have realized that there isn’t one California coast but many. The mood keeps changing, from Pismo Beach’s landmark pier and vintage beach town atmosphere to the otherworldly beauty of towering sand dunes (the West Coast’s highest) at GuadalupeNipomo Dunes. Highway 1 twists inland here to reveal more classic California. At Lompoc, visit another restored mission at 18 • Byways
La Purisima Mission State Historic Park and its 2,000 acres of parkland. Or taste outstanding pinot noirs in the nearby Sta. Rita Hills wine region. Then, after winding through oak-studded hills, the highway drops through Gaviota Pass and swings back to Downtown Los Angeles. Photo courtesy Visit California.
the coast. With the Channel Islands hovering in the mists 25 miles offshore, you soon reach Santa Barbara. Here, breezes rustle palm trees and an almost tropical light washes over the city’s white walls, red-tiled roofs, and bougainvillea-cloaked paseos. But for all of its regal Mediterranean atmosphere, the good life—Southern California-style—plays out along Santa Barbara’s oceanfront, as kayakers and stand-up paddle-boarders glide along beaches where volleyball players battle to the
very last point. From Santa Barbara, it’s only 90 miles/145 kilometers more to Los Angeles. But what a 90 miles! There are the antique stores and cafes of Ventura’s restored downtown, and trails into the canyons and wildflower-filled meadows of Santa Monica Mountains National Recreation Area near Malibu. Oh, and Malibu Beach? Watch closely: you really can see movie stars splashing in the surf.
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Death Valley Scenic Byway
California SR 190 and Death Valley at the Daylight Pass Highway junction. Byways • 21
A view of the Panamint Valley. It can be seen to the east of milepost 48.6. Photo courtesy of National Park Service.
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gateway to over 3.3 million acres of spectacular scenery, expansive vistas, rare desert wildlife, and historical and cultural sites; this byway travels through sculpted hills and shifting sand dunes and even dips below sea level. Death Valley features the lowest point and the hottest place in North America. The path of California State Route 190 east of the Panamint Range in Death Valley National Park was followed in late 1849 and early 1850 by the Death Valley '49ers, a group of '49ers that had left the Old Spanish Trail at Enterprise, Utah to look for a shortcut to Walker Pass. The second boom in Death Valley was tourism, started in the 1920s by Herman Eichbaum. After several failures in getting a toll road approved from Lida, Nevada or over Towne Pass, he scaled back plans to include only the part of the latter route between southeast of Darwin and his resort at Stovepipe Wells. The new Eichbaum Toll Road was certified complete on May 4, 1926, and toll rates were set: $2 per motor vehicle and 50¢ per person. The Death Valley National Monument was created on February 11, 1933, and in December 1934 the Division of Highways paid $25,000 for the 30.35-mile road, giving the 17 miles east of the park boundary at the pass to the National Park Service. 22 • Byways
Once the life blood of the Death Valley region, Borax mining was highly dependent on the Harmony Borax Works, which was made up of several industrial buildings. Photo courtesy National Park Service.
A 500-foot deep hole created by bulging magma underneath the surface of the earth now gives this section of Death Valley an otherwordly appearance. Photo courtesy National Park Service. Byways • 23
A cloud-filled sky and rolling mountains grace the skyline on a peaceful drive along the Gold Belt Byway in Colorado. Photo courtesy Sally Pearce.
Colorado’s Gold Belt Tour & Historic Byway
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he Gold Belt Tour follows historic railroad and stagecoach routes leading to North America's greatest gold camp, three world-class fossil sites, and numerous historic sites. The Shelf and Phantom Canyon Roads cut along unpaved routes through winding canyons. Five byway communities allow a glimpse into this area's rich heritage. The Gold Belt Byway is made up mostly of roads that connected mining towns to the Arkansas Valley. On the Byway you will see many abandoned mines, buildings, and towns that prospered during the Colorado Gold Rush. Along the Byway you will see numerous buildings that have been unchanged since the mines went bust. Although gold is no longer the main mining export of this region many mines still exist. Phantom Canyon Road is a scenic road that connects Cañon City and Victor. The road goes through Phantom 24 • Byways
The northern portion of the Shelf Road. Photo courtesy Bureau of Land Management.
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Cripple Creek was the financial and social hub of the Cripple Creek Mining District. Today, many buildings in Cripple Creek's business district have been renovated or restored. Photo courtesy Bureau of Land Management.
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Several areas of the Byway offer impressive views of 14,110-foot Pikes Peak, one of Colorado's most famous landmarks. Pnoto courtesy Bureau of Land Management.
Canyon. The road has two tunnels and three elevated bridges and many camp locations. It was originally the route of a railroad that connected Florence and Cripple Creek. The route contains many narrow roads and high wooden bridges and is is unpaved. Shelf Road is a portion of the Byway going In CaĂąon City's through Fourmile Canyon. National HisIt was originally used as a toric District, stagecoach road. The cliffs the St. Cloud of the canyon near Shelf Hotel has stood Road offer some of the at the corner of 7th and Main best sport climbing in since 1888. Colorado. Photo courtesy High Park road was the Bureau of Land first route to connect gold Management. mines with the Arkansas Valley. Unlike Shelf Road and Phantom Canyon road it doesn't run through a canyon and is paved. High Park Road is located in an area where cattle ranching takes place. Teller County Road 1 was the first stagecoach route to Cripple Creek and thus it is called County Road 1. It is a paved road and offers diverse views of scenery. Along
the road are steep mountains and rolling hills where cattle graze. Over 500 underground mines were located within the Cripple Creek Mining District. These mines produced more gold than the Alaska and California gold rushes combined.
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Phillips 66 and Bartlesville, OK
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Museum replica of Phillips 66 gasoline station in Bassett, Nebraska.
he company that makes Phillips 66 gasoline began in 1917 as Phillips Petroleum Company, founded by L.E. Phillips and Frank Phillips of Bartlesville, Oklahoma. Attracted by the oil boom, Frank and L.E. Phillips, two brothers raised on an Iowa farm, came to Bartlesville in 1904. They hit a gusher north of Bartlesville, followed by 80 straight producers. The two founded Phillips Petroleum Company in 1917. Phillips grew to become the city's largest employer. Chiefly white-collar workers are employed by ConocoPhillips in Bartlesville, as the industrial extraction and refining work is done elsewhere in the state and throughout the world. In 1927, the company's gasoline was being tested on U.S. Highway 66 in Oklahoma, and when it turned out that the car was going 66 mph, which was fast at the time, the company decided to name the new fuel Phillips 66. The first Phillips 66 service station opened November 19, 1927, in Wichita, Kansas. This station has been preserved by the local historical society. Phillips 66 Logo The Phillips 66 shield logo, created for its link to the highway of the same number, was introduced in 1930 in 28 • Byways
a black and orange color scheme that would last nearly 30 years. In 1959, Phillips introduced a revised version of the shield in red, white and black, a color scheme still used by Phillips 66 Company for the brand. From the late 1930s until the 1960s, Phillips employed registered nurses as "Highway Hostesses," who made periodic and random visits to Phillips 66 stations within their regions. The women inspected station restroom facilities to ensure they were well cleaned and stocked. The Highway Hostesses also served as ambassadors for the company by directing motorists to suitable dining and lodging facilities. Phillips also had gasoline stations in Canada's western provinces of Alberta, British Columbia, Manitoba, and Saskatchewan under the name Pacific 66 until the late 1970s. In 1946, Phillips purchased the Utahbased Wasatch Oil Co., bringing the Phillips 66 brand to the northern Rocky Mountain states and the far eastern portions of Oregon and Washington. In 1966, Phillips entered the West Coast market by purchasing Tidewater Oil Company's refining and marketing properties in that region and rebranding all Flying A distributorships and service stations to Phillips 66. In 1967, Phillips became the nation's second oil com-
pany, after Texaco, to sell and market gasoline in all 50 states, by opening a Phillips 66 station in Anchorage, Alaska. Phillips' experiment in 50-state marketing was short-lived. The company withdrew from gasoline marketing in the northeastern U.S. in 1972. Today, Phillips 66 primarily operates in the Midwest and Southwest. Oklahoma’s interest in Route 66 runs deep. In 1927, Oklahoman businessman Cyrus Avery, known as the "Father of Route 66," began the campaign to create U.S. Route 66. Using a stretch of highway from Amarillo, Texas to Tulsa, Oklahoma to form the Downtown Bartlesville today. original portion of Highway 66, Avery spearheaded the creation of the U.S. Waterford crystal chandeliers, it is the original furnishHighway 66 Association to oversee the planning of ings left by the Phillips family that make this tour an Route 66, based in his hometown of Tulsa. experience to remember. Today in Bartlesville you can visit the Phillips With a balanced mixture of natural resources and Petroleum Company Museum and be inspired by the sto- abundant space, Bartlesville has grown to be the home of ry of Phillips' transformation from a small Bartlesville more than 34,000 people. While it's true that many of business to a global energy enterprise, and the extraordi- residents work in the energy industry with companies nary people who made it happen. like ConocoPhillips, Phillips 66, and Schlumberger, Visit the Frank Phillips home. Although the house there also exists a large, diverse employment base that itself is beautiful and ornate with rich imported continues to expand. Philippine mahogany, handcrafted molded ceilings, and http://www.visitbartlesville.com
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The white tower of Split Rock Lighthouse stands on the edge of sheer cliffs on the shore of Lake Superior. © Explore Minnesota Tourism.
Minnesota’s North Shore Scenic Drive
The North Shore of Lake Superior runs from Duluth, he North Shore of Minnesota has what no other at the southwestern end of the lake, to Thunder Bay and place in the Midwest can offer -- an inland sea, a Nipigon, Ontario, Canada, in the north to Sault Ste. mountain backdrop, an unspoiled wilderness, and Marie, Ontario, in the east. The shore is characterized by a unique feeling all its own. The North Shore Scenic Drive is an AllAmerican Road scenic byway designated The Duluth Lakewalk, a boardwalk on Lake Superior, route that follows Saint Louis County Road 61 provides a place for joggers, walkers and others to / Lake County Road 61 / State Highway 61 enjoy the outdoors. Photo courtesy A. E. Crane. from the city of Duluth, Minnesota to the Canadian border near Grand Portage. The route stays close to the rocky North Shore of Lake Superior, offering spectacular vistas of the lake to the southeast as it skirts along the foothills of the Sawtooth Range to the northwest. Drive the North Shore Scenic Drive from Duluth to the Canadian Border, and along the way see some of the most spectacular scenery in the country. Enjoy the natural treasures of eight state parks and the Superior National Forest. 30 • Byways
alternating rocky cliffs and cobblestone beaches, with rolling hills and ridges covered in boreal forest inland from the lake, through which scenic rivers and waterfalls descend as they flow to Lake Superior. The beautiful trails of the parks and the 200-mile Superior Hiking Trail offer unlimited opportunities to experience firsthand this magnificent landscape. If you want to enjoy the lake itself, charter fishing, sailing, kayaking, and excursion boats are popular alternatives to swimming in these scenic northern waters. The rich history of the North Shore is deeply rooted in its plentiful natural resources. On the northern end of the byway, visit Grand Portage National Monument, which features a reconstructed North West Company fur-trading post. Stop in Grand Marais, a quaint harbor town that is the entrance to the Gunflint Trail, a paved trail leading inland to the Boundary Water Canoe Area Wilderness. At the southern end of the byway, watch giant ore boats pull up to the docks at Two Harbors. Also visit a much smaller boat, the 100-year-old tugboat The Edna G., which is displayed here. Learn the story of this area in small museums in Two Harbors and Tofte, as well as interpretive programs at the state parks.
High Falls of the Pigeon River on the Canada–United States border, Grand Portage State Park, Minnesota.
Tettegouche State Park in Minnesota on the North Shore of Lake Superior; photo taken from Palisade Head (foreground) looking NE to Shovel Point.
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The view of Fort Ticonderoga and Lake Champlain from Mount Defiance.
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New York’s Lakes to Locks Passage
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The LaChute River flows through Ticonderoga in New York, allowing visitors to sneak a peak at the river's dramatic cascades.
M
The Saratoga Monument, located in the Village of Victory, commemorates the surrender of the British General Burgoyne to American General Gates, an event that historians note as the "Turning Point of the American Revolution." idway between Manhattan and Montreal, the Lakes to Locks Passage lets you experience the interconnected waterway that shaped the destiny of North America. The byway unifies the interconnected waterway of the upper Hudson River, Champlain Canal, Lake George, and Lake Champlain; this waterway is the core of North America’s first "super-highway" between upstate New York and the Canadian province of Quebec. The U.S. portion of the passage is a New York State Scenic Byway, a National Scenic Byway, and an AllAmerican Road. The byway extends from just north of Albany to the vicinity of the Canada-United States border at Rouses Point as a highway and as a waterway. The waterway route continues north into Canada to connect with the St. Lawrence River. The distinctive influence of French, English and Dutch settlers is still evident today in the communities along the rivers, waterfalls and lakeshore harbors. By bike, foot, boat, train, motorcoach or car, Lakes to Locks Passage provides access to charming cities, rural landscapes and 34 • Byways
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Sunset falls on Lake Champlain where the lake vermont separates Vermont and New York state.
Adirondack hamlets. Through all four seasons, you can travel through numerous historic, natural, cultural and recreational experiences along the scenic waterway that links upstate New York to southern Quebec. A series of 32 Waypoint Communities have been designated to "meet and greet" the Lakes to Locks Passage visitor. Community museums and attractions serve as Lakes to Locks Passage Heritage Centers. Nearly every community has a driving, biking or walking tour. The waterway route extends from the Erie Canal (Mohawk River) at Cohoes, 9 miles (14 km) north of Albany and 1 mile southwest of Waterford, to the St. Lawrence River at Sorel-Tracy, Quebec, 40 miles northeast of Montreal. This waterway was North America's first inter-connected waterway that shaped the nationbuilding activities of the United States and Canada. It provides access to over 225 miles of diverse historic, natural, cultural and recreational sites along the Champlain Canal, upper Hudson River, Lake George, and Lake Champlain in New York, and the Chambly Canal and Richelieu River in Quebec. As an All-American Road, Lakes to Locks Passage is one of a select group of roadways in the country that the Federal Highway Administration promotes as a "premier destination" in their marketing efforts for national and international tourism. http://www.lakestolocks.org 36 • Byways
The bridge makes for an exciting vantage point to see the waterfalls and buildings in Ausable Chasm. Photo courtesy Katie Armstrong.
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From the pathway, Jamestown Island can be seen in the the misty distance. Photo courtesy National Park Service, Colonial National Historical Park.
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Virginia’s Colonial Parkway
t only takes an hour to drive Virginia's Colonial signs and other modern roadside items to a minimum, Parkway, but in that time you'll discover a part of and make them unobtrusive where unavoidable. This America's history that is taught in every classroom in the country. One of the many red brick tunnels that help divert the traffic The Colonial Parkway not only away from the historic setting of Colonial Willamsburg. Photo illustrates the English colonial by National Park Service, Colonial National Historical Park. experience in America, but is also an outstanding example of American parkway design. Retaining its original scenic and historic integrity to a remarkable degree, the 23-mile route connects the historic sites of Jamestown, Williamsburg and Yorktown. The parkway is part of the National Park Service's Colonial National Historical Park. With portions built between 1930 and 1957, the Colonial Parkway links the three communities via a roadway carefully shielded from views of commercial development; a major effort has also been made to keep traffic 38 • Byways
The Governor’s Palace at Colonial Williamsburg, was once the home to Williamsburg's governor. It was reconstructed in 1935. Photo courtesy Katie Armstrong.
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Shady roads and beautiful scenery welcome visitors along the Colonial Parkway.Photo courtesy National Park Service, Colonial National Historical Park.
helps visitors mentally return to the past, and there are often views of wildlife and waterfowl in addition to the river panoramas near each end. The roadway, a National Scenic Byway and AllAmerican road (one of only 27 in the U.S.), is free of trucks and is a popular (but not the quickest) way to move by motor vehicle between the three points, especially for visitors. Near the James River and York River ends of the parkway, there are several pull-offs. The western end of the parkway begins at Jamestown, where the Virginia colony was begun in 1607 on the shore of the James River. Some visitors begin their experience by approaching the entire area from the south via State Route 10 to Surry, and then across the James River and arriving by water on the Jamestown Ferry. The middle point of the Parkway is Williamsburg, where the capital of the colony was moved from Jamestown in 1699. The parkway tunnels under the historic district of Colonial Williamsburg. The eastern end of the Parkway is Yorktown, where General Cornwallis surrendered to George Washington in 1781, ending the American Revolution. 40 • Byways
The Colonial Parkway took over 25 years to create from concept to completion. By 1937, the road was completed to just outside Williamsburg. There was some debate over the routing in the Williamsburg area, and eventually a tunnel was selected. The tunnel under the historic district of Colonial Williamsburg was completed by 1942, but opening was delayed by World War II and some structural and flooding problems. It finally opened for traffic in 1949, leaving only the Williamsburg-toJamestown section to be built. On April 27, 1957, the Colonial Parkway was opened for traffic along the entire route between Yorktown and Jamestown. Queen Elizabeth II of Great Britain and her consort Prince Philip made a state visit that year. The Colonial Parkway has been carefully maintained. Priority is given wetlands ecosystems and the natural growth as well as wildlife and waterfowl preservation. The scenic shoreline areas along the two major tidal rivers present extra challenges with many bridges and fills.
Rusty cannons line up on a bright green lawn, representing one of the many relics of the past at the Yorktown Battlefield.
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MEGA Quest opens in Louisville's underground: Aerial ropes challenge course provides high energy adventure
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T
High energy rope challenga at MEGA Quest.
he world's only fully underground aerial ropes challenge course has opened at Louisville MEGA Cavern. MEGA Quest features more than 75 challenging rope elements and provides participants with a high-energy adventure that will test the strength and agility of all skill levels.
The Mega Tram tour at Louisville MEGA Cavern.
Louisville MEGA Cavern was named the No. 1 tourist attraction in Louisville by Trip Advisor, it is ideal for thrill seekers, families, businesses and organizations looking for a fun and unique atmosphere. "Aerial ropes challenge courses are the hottest extreme adventure sport in Europe and are quickly gaining popularity in the United States," said Jim Lowery, co-owner of Louisville MEGA Cavern. "There is nothing like this in our region, and nothing like it underground in the entire world." The man-made cavern spans under a number of roadways above and is part of 17 miles of corridors located beneath the city of Louisville, Kentucky. It’s a great
g n i n e p p a H s ’ t a Wh
tour for all ages—whether you want to learn about science and history or simply want to see what a giant man-made cavern of this magnitude looks like! You’ll hop on an SUV-pulled tram and be joined by a MEGA Cavern expert who will guide you on your underground adventure. MEGA Quest is the fourth attraction developed in the Louisville MEGA Cavern since it opened in 2009. The venue is also home to Louisville MEGA Cavern Tram Tour, Lights Under Louisville Christmas Light Show and MEGA ZIPS. "This visionary endeavor has quickly become the talk of the tourism industry," said Jim Wood, president and CEO of the Louisville Convention & Visitors Bureau. "This latest feature is an amazing addition to a phenomenal attraction that enhances our city's worldwide appeal." Louisville MEGA Cavern is an all-weather attraction. The temperature inside the cavern hovers at a comfortable 58 degrees year round. Because you ride through the cavern and never walk, Louisville MEGA Cavern is especially convenient for parents with small children, seniors and group tours, and the physically challenged. For ticket prices and more information, visit www.louisvillemegacavern.com or call (877)614-6342.
The world’s only underground Zip Line.
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Ackerman Overlook near United States Air Force Academy off Interstate 25 in Colorado Springs. Photo courtesy Billy Hathorn.
Webcam Displays Breathtaking Geological Landmarks of Colorado Springs
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he view has inspired the words to America the Beautiful, the highest Cog Railway in the world and a paved highway to the summit that hosts the second oldest motorsports event, “Race to the Clouds”. Pikes Peak, also known as America’s Mountain, offers spectacular beauty to those who have gazed upon its glory over the centuries. Sitting at 14,115 feet, it is the 30th highest “fourteener” (mountains with an elevation 44 • Byways
exceeding fourteen thousand feet) in Colorado. This iconic landmark is the second most-visited mountain next to Mt. Fuji in Japan. Now, through the power of the web, people can see the splendor of the mountain from their desktop, laptop, Smartphone or tablet anytime they please. Of course nothing beats the real thing, but those needing a fix of the gorgeous Colorado Rocky Mountains can click-on www.VisitCOS.com/webcam anytime the mood strikes. The Lodge at the Garden of the Gods Club, in conjunction with the Garden of the Gods Visitor & Nature Center, graciously hosts the camera that gazes upon the peak framed by the vibrant red hues of Garden of the Gods Park. “We are excited to partner with Garden of the Gods Visitor & Nature Center and the Colorado Springs
Garden of the Gods
Convention & Visitors Bureau to showcase the breathtaking beauty of the Garden of the Gods landmark on the new live webcam featured on VisitCOS.com. We can now share with web users across the world the incredible natural setting that we enjoy every day,” says Lodge General Manager Billy Peterson. Combined, Pikes Peak, the Garden of the Gods Visitor & Nature Center and Garden of the Gods Park see
The Royal Gorge Bridge connects the rims of the Royal Gorge near Cañon City. Image courtesy Matt Inden/Miles.
upwards of 2.8 million visitors annually. “Whether people are reminiscing about past visits, or dreaming of those to come, this is our postcard to the world,” articulates Colorado Springs Visitors Bureau CEO and President Doug Price. Other area live cams include the giraffe herd and meerkats at Cheyenne Mountain Zoo and the summit camera courtesy of the Pikes Peak Cog Railway.
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Byways is published bi-monthly by Byways, Inc. and distributed electronically throughout North America. Byways is emailed to more than 4000 tour operators plus selected travel agencies through the internet. Subscriptions are complimentary. An iPad & iPhone version is available for consumers in iTunes and Newsstand in the App Store. Byways’ distribution includes motorcoach companies, tour operators, and selected travel agents, bank travel managers, school band and athletic planners, and meeting planners. For advertising rates, editorial deadlines, or to place advertising insertions, contact: Byways Magazine, 42 Cabin Hill Lane, Mount Jackson, VA 22842. Telephone 540477-3202. Fax 540-477-3858. Toll-free 800-469-0062. ©Copyright 2013 by Byways, Inc. All rights reserved. No portion of this publication may be duplicated in any form without express written permission of the publisher. Editor and Publisher Stephen M. Kirchner
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Advertisers Index
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