Byways Great American Roads

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Featuring North America’s Leading Travel Destinations

Dutchess County, The Heart of the Hudson Valley Great American Roads The Lincoln Highway, America’s First Transcontinental Road

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Instant Connect

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We invite you to tour - / - $ " - Ę?. Country Byways – Genesee, Orleans and Wyoming Counties in Western New York. Located just 40 minutes east of Niagara Falls, the Country Byways take in all of those “fun to poke around inâ€? tour stops that you may not be familiar with when visiting the Western New York area.

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The Blue Ridge Parkway & The “Peaks of Otter�

The National D-Day Memorial

Smith Mountain Lake With 500 Miles of Shoreline

Thomas Jefferson’s Poplar Forest

The Bedford Wine Trail Festivals & Antiquing With Five Wineries Historic Centertown Bedford

Most of all—The Right Partner! FOR MORE INFORMATION AND A CUSTOMIZED GROUP ITINERARY: CALL TOLL FREE 1-877-447-3257 AND VISIT: www.VisitBedford.com

You’ll Love My Sullivan County Catskills! Meet Me on the Upper Delaware Scenic Byway this Autumn Where There’s Plenty to Fall for. This charming, historic and natural stretch of road hugs the Delaware River and features restaurants, scenic overlooks, antiques and speciality stores, and water sports. Toss in an amber sunset and the golden hues of the trees and you’ll see why the Sullivan County Catskills are easy to love.

WHERE GROUPS DROP ANCHOR FOR A

GREAT DAY. Got a big group? So do we...of ways to entertain groups. Like raising the sails of a tall ship. Cruising the Mystic River. Exploring a 19th-century seafaring village. And enjoying our galleries, exhibits, planetarium, shopping, and delicious food. Come for a few hours, or a full day. To make your group reservations, call 860.572.5322.

ONLY 90 MINUTES FROM NEW YORK CITY AND EVEN LESS FROM NORTH JERSEY

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A window to our past... A doorway to our future.

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WHERE GROUPS DROP ANCHOR FOR A

GREAT DAY. Got a big group? So do we...of ways to entertain groups. Like raising the sails of a tall ship. Cruising the Mystic River. Exploring a 19th-century seafaring village. And enjoying our galleries, exhibits, planetarium, shopping, and delicious food. Come for a few hours, or a full day. To make your group reservations, call 860.572.5322.

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PREVIEW

By Steve Kirchner, Editor & Publisher

Historic Route 11 in the Shenandoah Valley of elcome to the Great America Virginia is just the route for a leisurely and scenic drive. Roads issue of Byways. Route 11 was a major troop movement route during the In this issue we follow a few of Civil War. Groups are welcome to explore the new America’s highways and byways to Hupp’s Hill Civil War Park, located along Route 11 in Strasburg. This new site focuses on the Shenandoah learn about some special destinations. The heritage of the American Valley during the Civil War, and specifically the 1864 Highway, and the founders who pushed for a transcontinental highway is a fascinating story. The Lincoln Highway, a road many people may not know about, is featured. But as this road closes in on its 100th anniversary, it’s time to take note. We’re very pleased to have the introduction to the highway written by Bob Dieterich, president of the Lincoln Highway Association. If you can imagine a road from New York City to San Francisco, a span of 3,300 miles -- in 1913! While the confusing and haphazardly maintained condition of the early Lincoln Highway illustrated the long-neglected nature of the American roads inherited by the automobile, by the 1920s, it had become the nation’s premier cross-country thoroughfare and a testing ground for new road and bridgebuilding techniques. In the Hudson Valley, we visit Dutchess County Lincoln Highway Bridge in Iowa along Historic Route 9, and learn of this facinating place of Presidents and Industrialists who made their homes away from home just 90 miles and a world apart Battle of Cedar Creek. The museum offers a video, exhibits, and special events. from New York City. We step back in time to travel along the Little Dixie Highway, linking Mark Twain’s hometown of Hannibal to the smaller cities of Louisiana. Missouri’s Highway 79 runs parallel to the mighty Mississippi River. The Native American Scenic Byway is one of South Dakota’s Great Places. The byway takes travelers 450 miles on a journey north to south across the entire state of South Dakota. The byway passes through five reservations and tribal lands including Standing Rock, Cheyenne River, Lower Brule, Crow Creek, and Yankton. In What’s Happening, we learn about Michigan’s Sleeping Historic Joseph Horton House in the Hudson Valley 6 • Byways

Bear Dunes, now voted the most beautiful place in America. And we discover a town in Maryland that disappeared off the map and was forgotten in history. Even though St. Mary’s City was the first capital of Maryland and the fourth permanent settlement in British North America, it

quickly faded when Annapolis became the capital. Today, however, it is a leading attraction in Southern Maryland. A visit to the Patuxent River Naval Air Museum is both informative and fun with fighter jets on display. We hope you enjoy this issue of Byways.

Byways • 7

Southern Kitchen

Home Cooking Since 1955

Close to Bryce Resort, Shenandoah Caverns & New Market Battlefield New Market, Virginia I-81 Exit 254

Steaks • Seafood • Chicken • Breakfast 540-740-3514 9576 S. Congress Street Open 7 Days a Week 7 am - 9 pm Come by and meet your hosts, Randy & Rebecca Newland

8 • Byways

Volume 28, Issue No. 4, 2011

Features

On the cover. Dutchess County and the Heart of the Hudson Valley of New York are featured in this issue of Byways. In this cover shot, leaves turn spectacular colors as Fall takes hold as the seasons change.

Dutchess County - The Heart of the Hudson Valley . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 Liquid Gold in the Hudson Valley . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 Niagara Scenic Byways. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 Great American Roads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 An Introduction to the Lincoln Highway . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 The Lincoln Highway . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 U.S. Route 11 Offers Historic Towns, Farmland Scenery, and Mountain Views . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 Back in Time -- Highway 79, Little Dixie Highway . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 South Dakota’s Native American Scenic Byway. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36

Departments

Byways Instant Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 Byways Preview. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 Advertisers Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43 Free Byways Subscription . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44

What’s Happening

Michigan’s Sleeping Bear Dunes Voted “Most Beautiful Place in America” . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 Maryland’s Living History Museum, St. Mary’s City . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 Patuxent River Naval Museum Preserves Naval Aviation History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42

Coming in future issues of Byways… Mystic Seaport and New England. The Top Tour Destinations of 2012, Riding the Rails, The Southern States, and The Old West are some of the highlights of upcoming issues of Byways Magazine.

Right: Whaleship Charles W. Morgan, Mystic Seaport, CT. Below: Riding the Rails on the Durbin & Greenbrier Valley Railroad

Byways • 9

www.arrowstagelines.com

motorcoach.com

Sweet Magnolia Tours Trieloff Tours

The National Reservation Center Charter a motorcoach anywhere in North America 10 • Byways

888-733-5287 • nmn@motorcoach.com

Byways • 11

12 • Byways

Dutchess County - The Heart of the Hudson Valley

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Dia: Beacon, Riggio Galleries draws visitors from around the globe to their renowned collection of art from the 1960s to the present.

ravel along New York’s historic Route 9 in Dutchess County; bordering the magnificent Hudson River, framed by splendid mountain vistas, through charming village hamlets, past majestic mansions, picturesque farms, vineyards and orchards. You’d never imagine you’re only 90 minutes from the hustle and bustle of New York City. Dutchess County is abundant with culinary experiences! The Garden of Eating Tour celebrates the bounty of sustainable farming. Visit o award-winning wineries, pick-your-own farms and markets, tour an organic farm, tea factory & tasting room, creamery, maple syrup processing facility, and numerous restaurants featuring CIA Chefs and local produce. Dia: Beacon, Riggio Galleries draws visitors 14 • Byways

Franklin D. Roosevelt Presidential Home-Museum-Library

from around the globe to their renowned collection of art from the 1960s to the present. The river site with 300,000 square feet of natural light allows visitors an unparalleled direct experience with art. The expansive space spotlights large scale installations by acclaimed artists like Agnes Martin, Richard Serra, and Michael Heizer. Explore the region’s unique heritage at Mount Gulian Historic Site. The White Glove Tour lets groups actually handle artifacts of the Dutch Colonial, Revolutionary War, and Civil War periods. Enjoy Dutch Colonial High Tea with a modern spin at Historic Joseph Horton House. The 259 year old home offers tours, live music, delicious food, and an unforgettable experience. Hyde Park is home to several of the area’s most popular attractions, for example, The Culinary Institute of America (CIA), with five award-winning, student staffed restaurants, tours, and a gift shop filled with epicurean delights, and Franklin D. Roosevelt Presidential HomeMuseum-Library, America’s first Presidential Library. Nearby you’ll find Eleanor Roosevelt’s Val-Kill Cottage, FDR’s Top Cottage, and Vanderbilt Mansion. Vanderbilt group tours include the Servants to Stewards Tour, an

1929 biplane at Old Rhinebeck Aerodrome.

Vanderbilt Mansion

interactive, behind-the-scenes look of life as a Gilded Age servant. Each of the National Park Service sites highlights beautiful gardens, extensive walking trails and gorgeous river views. Hudson Valley aristocracy began with the Livingston’s

Hudson River cruise on Empire Cruise Line’s Mystere at Clermont State Historic Site. Stories about the family lineage include Robert Livingston, perhaps best known for signing the Declaration of Independence. Staatsburgh State Historic Site is the 79 room Gilded Age mansion of Ruth Livingston Odgen Mills. Your tour guide will greet you as an invited guest of the Mills’ for a “weekend in the country”. Nearby Wilderstein Historic Site is the Queen Anne architectural home of Margaret “Daisy” Suckley, friend and confidante to estate neighbor, FDR. Locust Grove, The Samuel Morse Historic Estate, invites visitors to explore the art gallery, visitors’ center, and the Italianate villa house with lovely gardens and walking trails. Walkway Over the Hudson has treated more than a million visitors to unprecedented views of the river valley since it opened as a New York State Park and the world’s longest elevated pedestrian bridge in 2009. This historic bridge at 212’ feet above water and 1.28 miles across, was the first Hudson River railroad bridge in 1888, and now offers full accessibility, guided group tours, and amazing panoramic vistas. Dutchess County is the place to be for festivals and events featuring the Hudson Valley Wine & Food Fest, NYS Sheep & Wool Festival, Crafts at Rhinebeck, Beacon Sloop Strawberry Festival, Wassaic Project Art & Music Festival, and the 166 year old Dutchess County Fair, the largest six day fair in New York. And a visit to the region just wouldn’t be complete without a Hudson River cruise 16 • Byways

on Empire Cruise Line’s Mystere vessel docked in historic Poughkeepsie. Themed lunch, dinner, and sightseeing cruises engage visitors in the most relaxing way to take in the region’s spectacular scenic views. Nestled in the heart of the Hudson River Valley, Dutchess County’s abundance of historic landmarks, restaurants, cultural attractions, and natural scenic beauty make it the ideal leisure destination. We look forward to sharing it all with you! Group Tour Information: Dawn Hopper Dutchess County Tourism 845-463-5444 800-445-3131 dawn@dutchesstourism.com http://www.dutchesstourism.com/grouptours.asp

Watch or order our video. Email Dawn or call 845-463-5444. Click on sites below for group tour info.

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Byways • 17

Liquid Gold in the Hudson Valley

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ew York’s iconic maple trees are more than simply beautiful. On one local farm in Dutchess County they’re now generating a crisp, clean maple syrup of unprecedented purity and sophistication. In its first season of operation, Crown Maple Farms of Dover Plains, NY crafted more than 7,000 barrels of liquid sensation, debuting four grades of 100% organic syrup, each with its own distinct, complex flavor profile. Crown Maple’s exceptional departure lies in its groundbreaking commitment to sustainable forestry methods, resulting in gentle sap removal in order to ensure the integrity and vibrant health of each tree in its care. Only the pure goodness of the maple makes it in the bottle. Their new state-of-the-art facility in the Hudson Valley is a fascinating blend of 21st century technology and a revival of age-old traditions. Beginning in 2012, you can witness the artisanal process for yourself when Crown Maple opens to visitors for guided farm and facility tours, tastings, outdoor events and more. Set on 800 breathtaking acres with miles and miles of trails; food enthusiasts, nature lovers and agri-fans will all be sweet on Crown Maple. For upcoming tour info, contact Sherri at 845-8770640, sherri@crownmaple.com. Luckily, you don’t have to wait to experience their divine syrup – it’s available now at www.crownmaple.com. 18 • Byways

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Distinctly Dutchess Group Tours!

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Take to the skies in a 1929 biplane at Old Rhinebeck Aerodrome.

ake your afternoon tea, Dutch Colonial style, at Experiential Group Tours brochure, 845-463-5444, 8001752 Historic Joseph Horton House. Or, take your 445-3131. Ask for Dawn: dawn@dutchesstourism.com. place as a Gilded Age servant on the Servants to Stewards Tour at Vanderbilt Mansion National Historic Site, circa 1896. You can even take to the skies in a 1929 biplane at Old Rhinebeck Aerodrome. Dutchess County Experiential Group Tours put you and your group - in the middle of an authentic, memorable experience. You’re not just standing behind ropes and stanchions; you’re donning white gloves to explore Revolutionary War artifacts at Mount Gulian Historic Site or interacting with costumed guides of the Hudson River Trail to Freedom on the Anti-Slavery & African American Heritage Tour. You’re not eating lunch on-thego; you’re learning chef’s secrets to a farm-fresh, gourmet meal at Gigi Hudson Valley, than getting a behind-the-scenes look at wine-making at Millbrook Vineyards & Winery and sipping some of the region’s award-winning wines. Group tour planners have chosen Dutchess County, in the heart of the Hudson Valley, as their motorcoach group destination for decades. Now there’s even more to see, do...and experience. Touring the Millbrook Vineyards & Winery. Watch our award-winning VIDEO. Order an 20 • Byways

You’ll Love My Sullivan County Catskills! Meet Me on the Upper Delaware Scenic Byway this Autumn Where There’s Plenty to Fall for. This charming, historic and natural stretch of road hugs the Delaware River and features restaurants, scenic overlooks, antiques and speciality stores, and water sports. Toss in an amber sunset and the golden hues of the trees and you’ll see why the Sullivan County Catskills are easy to love.

ONLY 90 MINUTES FROM NEW YORK CITY AND EVEN LESS FROM NORTH JERSEY

1-800-882-CATS | scva.net Byways • 21

Letchworth State Park, “Grand Canyon of the East�

We invite you to tour - / - $ " - Ę?. Country Byways – Genesee, Orleans and Wyoming Counties in Western New York. Located just 40 minutes east of Niagara Falls, the Country Byways take in all of those “fun to poke around inâ€? tour stops that you may not be familiar with when visiting the Western New York area. Here’s just a sampling of what you’ll find:

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22 • Byways

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Medina Railroad Museum

8:00am Depart Batavia, NY hotel district 8:45 Arrive at the Lockport Locks & Erie Canal Cruises. A unique narrated cruise along the Old Erie Canal, which will pass through historic sites and five original 1825 locks. 11:30 Conclude your cruise and begin lunch at the Lift Bridge Café. Dine dockside in casual elegance along the Erie Canal towpath. 1:00 Depart Lockport on a one-hour train excursion along the Erie Canal to the Medina Railroad Museum, featuring memorabilia from the New York Central Railroad and an unbelievable HO Scale train layout. 2:30 Depart for the Medina Stone Farm for country music entertainment in the parlor. Enjoy a special mid-day snack, and listen to a country legends tribute. 4:00 Depart for Albion and a step-on guided tour of Courthouse Square - including the Pullman Universalist Church, built by George Pullman, inventor of the rail sleeping car. 5:00 Depart for LeRoy and the D&R Depot Restaurant for dinner. Dine in a restored train depot, where the food is homemade, the service is friendly, and even the background music is old-fashioned. Try the chicken-pot-pie, you won’t be disappointed. 7:15 Depart for your Batavia hotel. Turn in early, or try your luck at the slot machines you’ll discover just down the road at Batavia Downs Casino. D & R Depot Restaurant

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f you search your heritage, you’re likely to find an ancestor who had a tie to railroads or canals. The expansion of these transportation modes influenced our culture, industry and history in innumerable ways. Housed in one of the last surviving wooden freight depots in the United States, the

Medina Railroad Museum features one

of the largest collections of artifacts and memorabilia of its type in the country. The 1905 structure contains the longest HO scale layout and diorama all on one floor, and the displays/ exhibits offer visitors the opportunity to marvel at the growth of this industry. However, railroads weren’t the only method of transporting people and goods. The Erie Canal connected the waterways of the Northeast, opening up trade and development. Today, Lockport Locks & Erie Canal Cruises gives a glimpse into what it would have been like to travel the canal, complete with stories and lore concerning its construction. Now you can spend a weekend delving into history, and experiencing the wonder that the first settlers must have felt. We’ve put together the perfect tour to get you started.

View the digital version of our tour planner online or watch a quick video as we follow along a group tour while they visit some of these fun stops!

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Byways • 23

Chillicothe and Ross County, Ohio are Where To Be! for your group tours!

VisitChillicotheOhio.com

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Great American Roads

elcome to the annual Great American Roads issue of Byways. Each year we feature several roads across North America that have history and relevance to the destinations they serve. Some of these are roads of historical significance which have passed into history. Others are fully functioning today. The Lincoln Highway, the major feature story in this issue, is one such road. As the first transcontinental highway in the United States, it has a special place in history, and we think you will enjoy learning about a road which streched 3,300 miles across America -- in 1913! Route 11, the Old Valley Pike, played an important

role in America’s Civil War, and changed hands many times between North and South. Highway 79 in Missouri follows the Missippippi River, linking Mark Twain’s hometown of Hannibal to small towns in Loisiana. South Dakota’s Native American Scenic Byways traverses the state through Indian Reservations such as the Standing Rock, Cheyenne River, Lower Brule, Crow Creek, and Yankton. There’s no shortage of historically significant byways, highways and roads across North America, and we look forward to highlighting a number of them each year in this issue of Byways.

Byways • 25

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The Grand View Point Hotel, as it looked in the 1930s. It was located near Bedford, PA on the Lincoln Highway.

26 • Byways

An Introduction to the Lincoln Highway

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By Bob Dieterich, President Lincoln Highway Association

he Lincoln Highway is recognized as the first road across America.

Until its conception in 1913, there were only dirt paths and muddy ruts, maintained by the adjacent farmers, leading from farm to city. There were very few roads that allowed travel from city to city. That was done by train. However, automobiles were becoming increasingly available and affordable. The stage was set for the development of a highway system which would allow the common man the opportunity to travel great distances cheaply and at his own schedule. Several visionaries assembled in 1913 and formed the Lincoln Highway Association with the purpose of establishing a paved coast to coast highway on the most direct route from New York City to San Francisco. These men included Carl Fisher, President of Presto Lite Company; Henry Joy, President of Packard Motor Company; Frank Seiberling, President of Goodyear Tire Company; and other executives of the automobile industry. Little did they realize the impact of their actions on transportation in the United States. The original route of the Lincoln Historic brick paving near Elkhorn, Nebraska

Highway was no more than a connection of existing roads, but the association promoted improvements leading to a well defined and documented route across America. The original association dissolved in 1928 with the establishment of a federal highway system which dictated the use of numbers rather than names for all major highways. In 1992 the association was reborn with the mission of identifying and preserving as much of the original Lincoln Highway as possible. 2013 marks the 100th anniversary of the founding of the Lincoln Highway Association and will be celebrated with events all along the highway. There will be celebrations in towns and cities on the highway all across America, and many convention and business bureaus along the highway will sponsor events to attract tourists to the route. Of major significance will be the 100th anniversary celebration in Kearney, Nebraska, the mid point of the route. Automobile tours from both coasts will converge in Kearney, and Kearney will hold a major Centennial Celebration. Also, the Lincoln Highway Association will hold a week long annual convention in Kearney starting on Monday, July 1, 2013. See www.lincolnhighwayassoc.org. A brochure describing the celebration is available on the home page as a pdf document.

Original road over Donner Pass in California.

Byways • 27

The Lincoln Highway

The Abraham Lincoln Memorial at the Sherman Hill Summit in Wyoming was the most substantial Lincoln Highway-related monument ever erected. Constructed at the highest point on the Lincoln Highway in 1959, it was relocated to a nearby rest stop on Interstate 80--the Lincoln Highway's modern transcontinental replacement--in 1968.

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he Lincoln Highway is a 3300-mile long road stretching across the United States from New York City to San Francisco. Its creation was the result of the first successful effort to create an all-weather transcontinental highway specifically for automobiles. The Lincoln Highway began as a miscellaneous collection of downtown streets, country lanes, and old trails marked with signs showing an “L” rectangular graphic emblazoned in red, white, and blue. While the confusing and haphazardly maintained condition of the early Lincoln Highway illustrated the long-neglected nature of the American roads inherited by the automobile, by the 1920s, it had become the nation's premier cross-country thoroughfare and a testing ground for new road and bridge-building techniques. A dynamic, commercial roadside emerged along the Lincoln Highway and other roads of that era, pioneering the marketing of gas, food, lodging and other motorist services through innovative architectural form and design. The Lincoln Highway started as the idea of a man named Carl Fisher in 1912. Mr. Fisher was the founder of Prest-O-Lite, a company that made some of the first headlights for gasoline powered cars. He envisioned a transcontinental route as a memorial to President Abraham Lincoln and saw it as a way to make more of America accessible to the growing number of automobile owners. Fisher reasoned that such a project would help spearhead the growing movement to develop “good roads” in

Lincoln HighwayBridge, Tamra, Iowa

America. The problem for Carl Fisher automobile travelers at that time was that roads were less than ideal for motorized travel -- most were unpaved, they did not connect and lacked any particular organization, and crosscountry travel by automobile was nearly unheard-of. The Lincoln Highway was inspired by the Good Roads Movement. In turn, the success of the Lincoln Highway and the resulting economic boost to the governments, businesses and citizens along its route inspired the creation of many other named long-distance roads (known as National Auto Trails), such as the Yellowstone Trail,

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National Old Trails Road, Dixie Highway, Jefferson Highway, Bankhead Highway, Jackson Highway, Meridian Highway and Victory Highway. Many of these named highways were supplanted by the United States Numbered Highways system of 1926. Most of the Lincoln Highway became US Route 30, with portions becoming US Route 1 in the East and US Route 40 and US Route 50 in the West. Most significantly, the Lincoln Highway inspired the National Interstate and Defense Highways Act of 1956, which was championed by President Dwight D. Eisenhower, influenced by his experiences as a young soldier crossing the country in the 1919 Army Convoy on the Lincoln Highway. Today, Interstate 80 is the cross-country highway most closely aligned with the Lincoln Highway. In the West, particularly in Wyoming, Utah and California, sections of Interstate 80 are paved directly over alignments of the Lincoln Highway. Fisher’s dream for the Lincoln Highway was that it be the first transcontinental paved highway running from the Atlantic to the Pacific. With the help of other visionary leaders in the automotive industry, chiefly Henry Joy of Packard Motor Car Company and Frank Sieberling of Goodyear Tire and Rubber Company, Fisher formed the Lincoln Highway Association in 1913 to collect private funds, lobby for, and build much of the Lincoln Highway. This may not seem like such a big feat today, but when you consider that the idea of these men proceeded the foundation of the Federal Highway System by more than 10 years, you might get a better understanding for how unusual and grand the effort was. Today, the roads that comprised the Lincoln Highway include more than 3300 miles of roads that are parts of present day US Routes 1, 20, 30,40, 50, 530, and Interstate Route 80 traversing New York, New Jersey, Pennsylvania, West Virginia, Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, Iowa, Nebraska, Colorado, Wyoming, Utah, Nevada, and California. The Lincoln Highway Association (LHA), originally established in 1913 to plan, promote, and sign the highway, was re-formed in 1992 and is now dedicated to promoting and preserving the road. The LHA has over 1100 members located in 40 states and Washington, DC, and in Canada, England, Germany, Luxembourg, and Scotland. 30 • Byways

Lincoln Highway Marker in Carson City, Nevada

Lincoln Highway near Pennsylvania Tunnel, 1922

Marker in San Francisco noting the western terminus of the Lincoln Highway. Byways • 31

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U.S. Route 11 Offers Historic Towns, Farmland Scenery, and Mountain Views

e’re all in a hurry these days. In order to fit in everything there is to do and see, the interstate highway is often the most convenient and fastest way to travel. While there may be a lot of truth in the pop song, “Life is a Highway,” too much is missed while speeding up and down highways and interstates. Historic U.S. Route 11 offers historic towns, farmland scenery, and beautiful mountain views. A United States Highway, Route11 parallels Interstate 81 in Virginia. By trading the interstate for Route 11, groups can travel through two of the largest agricultural counties in Virginia, Rockingham and Shenandoah. Route 11 also provides easy access to dining and attractions. Route 11 in Shenandoah County is a designated Virginia Byway. This scenic Route will have you traveling through 6 towns along the “Old Valley Pike.” Historic buildings and quaint shops make many 32 • Byways

of the towns great choices for a place to stretch your legs, get some fresh air, and just take a break from the road. Most of the towns offer museums of local history and are great places to include at little or no cost to your group tour. A trip along Route 11 wouldn’t be complete without a

visit to Route 11 Potato The Old Courthouse in Woodstock, VA. Chips. This specialty chip Photo Courtesy Woodstock Chamber of Commerce. maker has won awards and the chips are distributed nationally. Groups are able to watch the chips through a special “fry-view” experience. Samples are also available. Flavors include Dill Pickle, Lightly Salted, Barbeque, and Sweet Potato, to name a few. Route 11 Potato Chips is located less than a mile from Route 11. Route 11 was a major troop movement route during the Civil War. Groups are welcome to explore the new Hupp’s Hill Civil War Park, located along Route 11 in Strasburg. This new site focuses on the Shenandoah Valley during the Civil War, and specifitrue flavor of what makes the Valley a great place to viscally the 1864 Battle of Cedar Creek. The museum it; the charming towns, scenic views, and the friendly offers a video, exhibits, and special events. people. Life doesn’t have to be a highway, and neither Make the most of your next visit to the Shenandoah should your next group tour experience. Valley of Virginia. Travel U. S. Route 11 to capture the

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Riverboat Mark Twain on the Mississippi River viewed from from Cardiff Hill in Hannibal, MO.

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Back in Time -- Highway 79, Little Dixie Highway of the Great River Road

By Rickie Longfellow

inking Mark Twain’s hometown of Hannibal to the smaller cities of Louisiana, Missouri’s Highway 79 runs parallel to the mighty Mississippi River. Communities along the route were once riverboat boomtowns; their Italianate and Victorian architecture a tribute to their wealthy settlers. Like many boomtowns, the wealth provided by the riverboats and railroads went away and many of the old mansions and businesses were abandoned. But yesteryear is being revived. Route 79 offers a scenic drive with a tourist’s eye view of Old Man River, rolling hills, limestone bluffs and soaring eagles. The road has also helped to boost the economy in Clarksville, Louisiana, and Hannibal in recent years. Named “Fifty Miles of Art,” the old road acts as an artwork, crafts and galleries corridor, offering many opportunities to artists and photographers alike to capture magnificent panoram34 • Byways

ic views on canvas or film. The once abandoned buildings, particularly in Louisiana, are being preserved and renovated. Each of the three communities now has events planned throughout the year to encourage tourism and further promote revitalization. At Clarksville to the north of Louisiana, Highway 79, called the Little Dixie Highway of the Great River Road, has been designated as one of our Nation’s Scenic Mark Twain Boyhood Home

Byways, encouraging more travel into the area and further boosting the economy. The National Scenic Byways Program was created by the Intermodal Surface Transportation Efficiency Act of 1991 or better known in FHWA circles as ISTEA. The program offers a way to preserve the scenery for everyone to enjoy, as well as economic benefits to local communities through tourism and various activities. From Hannibal’s River Arts Festival, to Louisiana’s Great Mansions and Estates Tour, to Clarksville’s Lock and Dam 24 Bald Eagles Winter Migration, to the Fifty Miles of Art Tour, Missouri’s Scenic Byway 79 brings the tourism and revenue that restores and preserves the lifestyle along this historic stretch of the Mississippi River for everyone to enjoy. Article courtesy United States Department of Transportation Federal Highway Administration.

The Secret for a Successful Group p Tour is Simple: The Right Activities. The Right Amenities. The Right Destination.

The Blue Ridge Parkway & The “Peaks of Otter”

The National D-Day Memorial

Smith Mountain Lake With 500 Miles of Shoreline

Thomas Jefferson’s Poplar Forest

The Bedford Wine Trail Festivals & Antiquing With Five Wineries Historic Centertown Bedford

Most of all—The Right Partner! FOR MORE INFORMATION AND A CUSTOMIZED GROUP ITINERARY: CALL TOLL FREE 1-877-447-3257 AND VISIT: www.VisitBedford.com

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South Dakota’s Native American Scenic Byway

mong the countless beautiful drives in South itage of the Lakota and Dakota nations and allow visitors Dakota, one stands out as a unique opportunity to learn history from the Native American and early setfor travelers. The Native American Scenic tlers’ points of view. A few of the sites along the byway include Sakakawea Byway is one of South Dakota’s Great Places. and Sitting Bull Monuments, Mobridge; Fort Manual, The byway takes travelers on a journey north to south across the entire state of South Dakota. The total distance of the route is approximately 450 miles. The byway passes through five reservations and tribal lands including Standing Rock, Cheyenne River, Lower Brule, Crow Creek, and Yankton. Passing through the heart of the Great Sioux Nation in central South Dakota, visitors will experience not only the tribal history and culture, but breathtaking views as well. Much of the route follows the Missouri River, which provides views of bountiful wildlife, diverse landscapes and stunning vistas of rolling hills and river The city of Sioux Falls namesake is the impressive Falls of the Big bluffs. Sioux River. A downtown sculpture walk and greenway leads to Memorial markers, interpretive signs, Falls Park, which includes hiking trails, an observation tower and and monuments commemorate the herthe multi-level falls themselves. 36 • Byways

Kennel; and Fischer’s Lilly Park, Fort Pierre, where Lewis and Clark met with Native Americans. South Dakota’s Great Places is a project of the South Dakota Department of

Fort Pierre Rodeo

Native American heritage is celebrated throughout South Dakota at powwows and other events.

Tourism, designed travelers and residents alike. Click on “South Dakota’s to highlight places Great Places” link at http://www.MediaSD.com to access in South Dakota more Great Places of South Dakota. that are unique to

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Michigan’s Sleeping Bear Dunes Voted “Most Beautiful Place in America”

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n August, viewers of ABC’s “Good Morning America” voted Traverse City, Michigan’s Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore the “Most Beautiful Place in America,” edging out such better-known spots as the Grand Tetons, Sedona, Newport, Cape Cod, Aspen, Asheville and Hawaii’s Lanikai Beach. The honor was announced on the air by GMA hosts Josh Elliott and Lara Spencer, who called Sleeping Bear “one of the nation’s best-kept secrets” and said they were amazed at its beauty. A Special Invitation Now that Sleeping Bear Dunes is the “Most Beautiful Place in America,” you’re probably wishing you’d come up to Traverse City this summer to get another look at this splendid landscape. But here’s a better idea – come up this winter for an even more amazing experience! Few travelers think to visit the dunes in winter, but those who make the effort find it uniquely rewarding. Sleeping Bear’s glacier-scoured landscape of ridges, bluffs, lakes, and islands is uniquely appealing clothed in snow: a wild and primeval setting for skiers, snowshoers, anglers and campers. “I think because the beauty of Sleeping Bear Dunes is so accessible to people, it makes it more real to them somehow,” noted National Lakeshore Deputy 38 • Byways

a H s ’ t a h W

g n i n appe

Superintendent Tom Ulrich. The winning contest entry noted: “It is peaceful and serene. A place where gazing out into the world, night or day, and realizing that the universe is truly a magical, majestic mystery and humans are just a very small part of it all. Here at Sleeping Bear, I sit in awe and wonder at the perfection of Mother Nature.” New (Old) Lens for Old Mission Lighthouse The historic Mission Point Lighthouse at the tip of the Old Mission Peninsula has recovered one of its long-lost treasures: a vintage Fresnel lens that’s the exact model and size of the original lens that magnified its beacon across the rocky shoals where it stood guard between 1870 and 1933. Fresnel lenses are complex works of art and technology that transformed the weak flame of an oil lantern into a powerful beam of concentrated light and made it possible for lighthouses to be seen over long distances during storm conditions. The small lighthouse, a popular tourist destination, is open for tours and also hosts a popular “volunteer keepers program” that allows guests to stay in the facility and work. Traverse City Convention & Visitors Bureau, 101 W. Grandview Parkway, Traverse City, Michigan 49684. Call for more information: 800-940-1120 or 231-9471120. http://www.traversecity.com. Byways • 39

Maryland’s Living History Museum, St. Mary’s City

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n 1634, 140 colonists led by Governor Leonard Calvert sailed across the Atlantic on two ships and planted Lord Baltimore’s colony on the edge of the New World. The town they called St. Mary’s City was the first capital of Maryland and the fourth permanent settlement in British North America. For the next 60 years, St. Mary’s City underwent struggles and hardship, opportunity, and triumph. The colony was the fist place in British North America to mandate religious tolerance. Here, also, the first individual of African American descent participated in a colonial legislature, and Margaret Brent became the first woman to ask for the right to vote. Today, Historic St. Mary’s City is a National Historic Landmark recognized as one of America’s best preserved colonial archaeology sites. On a tidewater landscape lightly touched by the modern world, the colonial past is brought to life. 40 • Byways

The Maryland Dove, a square-rigged ship.

The town was the capital of the Province of Maryland for sixty years. When the seat of government moved to Annapolis in 1695, the town of St. Mary’s quickly disappeared. By the time of the American Revolution, little of Lord Baltimore’s capital was left by memories of its former importance. The town literally disappeared, as it faded from maps and memory. Early in the 20th century, interest in the old capital revived. Historical research and archaeological excavations began to uncover the 17th-century settlement. Because the old city had remained relatively undisturbed over the years, the area is one of the finest 17th-century colonial archaeology sites in the nation. Decades of research are the foundation of exhibits assembled across the landscape. Recreated structures in the town center, a Woodland Indian hamlet, a tall ship, tobacco plantation complete with livestock, and costumed interpreters bring the past to life.

Outdoor exhibits include the State House of 1676, Smith’s Ordinary, the Print House and the Godiah Spray Tobacco Plantation. At the Woodland Indian Hamlet, visitors discover how Maryland’s native population interacted with English colonists. Sailors’ stories of the tobacco trade and immigration resounded across the deck of the Maryland Dove, a square-rigged ship. Today St. Mary’s City has become one of Southern Maryland’s leading tourism attractions. More than 25,000 students visit each year, and college students study at the museum’s colonial archaeology field school. Special events are held throughout the year that provide unique opportuni-

The recreation of Maryland’s First Statehouse

Recreation of the first Catholic Chapel in English America

ties for visitors to work alongside archaeologists, explore the lifeways and culture of the region’s Native American peoples, and discover various facets of the colonial experience. Historic St. Mary’s City is located off Route 5 in Southern Maryland. Travel time is less than two hours from Washington, DC, Annapolis and Richmond, and less than 3 hours from Baltimore. Area attractions include Point Lookout State Park, the Calvert Marine Museum, the Potomac River Museum, and Sotterley. For more information, visit www.stmaryscity.org.

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Naval History Preserved at Patuxent River Naval Air Museum

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he Patuxent River Naval Air Museum (PRNAM) in Lexington Park, MD preserves and interprets the Patuxent River Naval Air Base history and heritage of advancing Naval aviation technology. The Patuxent River Naval Air Museum, adjacent to NAS Patuxent River, is some 60 miles south-south-east of Washington, DC.

New Museum Plans

This Museum is the repository of artifacts, photographs and film, documents and related heritage memorabilia from Patuxent River and other stations, such as Warminster, PA, and Trenton, NJ, that have been consolidated at Patuxent River. The Patuxent River Naval Air

Flight Simulators

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The flight line displays 21 Naval Aircraft

Museum is dedicated to those who have employed their talents in advancing Naval aviation research, development, testing and evaluation. The Museum opened in 1978 and is an official Navy Museum. Plans are now underway to expand the museum with a new main building. Inside the main hall is the popular MachCombat Flight Simulators. These simulators allow you to fly on one of several different past and present Naval Aircraft without leaving the ground. The four cockpits available were real trainers for Naval Aviators before being modified to enhance your visit to the museum. Located outside the museum is the Flight Line, displaying 21 aircraft which were actual test vehicles at the Patuxent River Naval Air Station including the X-35C Joint Strike Fighter. The museum is open Tuesday-Sunday, and closed on Monday and major holidays. School and tour groups are welcome, but should call ahead to schedule a group tour. Contact: director@paxmuseum.com. http://www.history.navy.mil/museums/paxmuseum/index.htm

X-35C Joint Strike Fighter

Byways is published bi-monthly by Byways, Inc. and distributed electronically throughout North America. Byways is emailed to more than 4000 tour operators and 20,000 travel agencies through the internet. Subscriptions are complimentary. Byways’ distribution includes motorcoach companies, tour operators, travel agents, bank travel managers, school band and athletic planners, and meeting planners. For advertising rates, editorial deadlines, or to place advertising insertions, contact: Byways Magazine, 42 Cabin Hill Lane, Mount Jackson, VA 22842. Telephone 540-477-3202. Fax 540-477-3858. Toll-free 800-469-0062. ©Copyright 2011 by Byways, Inc. All rights reserved. No portion of this publication may be duplicated in any form without express written permission of the publisher. Editor and Publisher Stephen M. Kirchner

Advertising Director 1.800.469.0062 540.477.3202 Fax 540.477.3858

Internet: bywaysmagazine.com byways@motorcoach.com

Advertisers Index

American Mountain Theater . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Bedford, Virginia Welcome Center . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Best Western Colorado River Inn, Needles, California. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Byways Magazine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Comfort Inn Charleston, West Virginia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Durbin & Greenbrier Valley RR . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Dutchess County, New York Convention & Visitors Bureau . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Franklin Hotel, Silverado Casino, Deadwood, South Dakota . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Frontier Culture Museum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Heritage Farm, Museum & Village, West Virginia. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Lake George Area, New York . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Louisville MEGA Cavern . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . motorcoach.com/National Reservation Center . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Mystic Seaport . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Niagara Scenic Byways . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . PA Dutch Hotels . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Pulaski County Tourism Bureau, Missouri. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Ross-Chillicothe, Ohio Tourism . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Shenandoah Caverns Family of Attractions, Virginia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Shenandoah County Tourism . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Southern Kitchen Restaurant, New Market, Virginia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Staunton Convention & Visitors Bureau . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Sullivan County Catskills, NY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Valley Forge, Pennsylvania Convention & Visitors Bureau . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

4 35 7 44 8 4 17 37 2 24 19 35 10 5 22 19 8 24 5 33 8 11 21 11

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