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PREVIEW By Steve Kirchner, Editor & Publisher

elcome to Byways magazine. there are so many memorable destinations there to soak Join us as we explore several up the summertime fun. From the Eastern Shore to themes in this issue. Virginia Beach, those seeking an action-packed beach Beginning with the Mid-Atlantic and experience will find it along Virginia’s coast. North Carolina’s coast features historic lighthouses. Valley Forge, where General George There are interesting stories about how they helped Washington encamped during the eventshape the state’s maritime history. From war to hurriful winter of 1777-1778 during the canes, North Carolina’s lighthouses have stood the test Revolutionary War, our nation’s history took important steps forward. General Washington’s troops overcame of time. Moving further south, the natural wonders of Florida incredible odds to emerge as a fighting force that went on are on display. Florida beaches continue to leave visitors to achieve America’s independence. in awe of their natural unspoiled beauty and famous for While history abounds in Valley Forge, there’s much fun and relaxation. more to this destination. It’s home to the King of Prussia Mall, the nation’s largest retail mall. And it’s also home to the QVC televi- Seals relax on a California beach. sion network, where you can go behind the scenes of this national shopping network. Valley Forge is important as a treasured landmark in our country’s history, but today it also offers so much more. Exploring America’s East and West Coasts is a new theme for Byways. On the West Coast we begin with an extensive look at San Francisco’s Golden Gate Bridge, which this year is celebrating its 75th Anniversary. The bridge opened in 1937, and immediately became synWhat’s Happening showcases the Kennedy Space onymous with American ideals and innovation. Center and the celebration of its 50th Anniversary of A drive along California’s coastal Highway 1 is an service to the nation. In celebration, NASA is opening incredible adventure. The journey begins along the several key areas of the complex to rare access, providsandy beaches of Southern Caifornia, and ends in Northern California among the giant redwoods. ing a look inside one of the largest buildings in the In Oregon, the rugged 400-mile coastline has amazing world, the Vehicle Assembly Building, off limits to visinatural beauty and wonders. Start your travels where tors for more than 30 years. In Chicago, the Willis Tower offers thrills of a differLewis and Clark ended their exploration. ent kind. The Ledge is a series of glass balconies that From the West Coast and 3,000 miles to the east, the extend 4.3 feet from the west side of the building on the coast of Maine has stunning views and history. 103rd floor, providing breathtaking views of the city – Beginning in 1794, Maine’s lighthouses have guided straight down! mariners to safety for more than two centuries. We hope you enjoy this issue of Byways. Heading south to Virginia’s 3,000 miles of coastline, 4 • Byways

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Features

Volume 29, Issue No. 3, 2012 On the cover. California’s Hwy. 1 follows the precipitous western slope of the Santa Lucia Range. Composed primarily of granite, the mountains reach a maximum elevation of 5,853 feet at Junipero Serra Peak, and extend some 105 miles from Monterey southeast to San Luis Obispo. Image is south of Big Sur, looking southwest. Photo by Dr. John A. Kirchner.

The Mid-Atlantic Valley Forge, Pennsylvania: History and More . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 Ocean Views: Pacific . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 Golden Gate Bridge Turns 75 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 Coastal California. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 Oregon’s Rugged Coast . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36 Ocean Views: Atlantic . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 Maine’s History of Guiding Sailors to Safety. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42 Soak in Virginia’s Coastal Summertime Fun . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44 Lighthouses Reveal North Carolina’s Maritime History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52 Discover Florida’s Natural Attractions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56

Departments

Byways Instant Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 Byways Preview. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 Advertisers Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68 Free Byways Subscription . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69

What’s Happening

Kennedy Space Center’s 50th Year Offers Visitors Rare Access . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 The Ledge at Skydeck Chicago Dares Visitors to Stand Out. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64

Coming in future issues of Byways… Favorite destinations along the highways and byways of America’s Rivers and Lakes, Great American Roads, and much more are upcoming in future issues of Byways magazine. The Mississippi River near New Orleans.

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Valley Forge, Pennsylvania: History and More

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Valley Forge National Historical Park

ure, there is history to be relived in Valley Forge, Pennsylvania, but there’s also shopping, culture, locally-made specialties, behind-thescenes tours and more. Yes, the lush 3,500-acre Valley Forge National Historical Park, where General George Washington encamped during the winter of 1777-78, is arguably the area’s main attraction. Its rolling hillsides showcase Washington’s original stone headquarters; a renovated 1913 train station with interactive exhibits on Washington as a leader; replica soldier huts; and monuments to the fledgling army’s courage. Relive the trials and tribulations of the troops who overcame great odds and emerged as the fighting force that went on to win America’s independence. Also experience the 19th and 20th centuries through sight and sound on the and even violins. An impressive untouched vintage car American Treasure Tour, spanning a three-acre amalga- collection rounds out this amazing treasure trove. From mation of Americana. The world’s finest collection of a 1902 Sears & Roebuck catalogue car to the Big Fin coin-operated musical instruments, or nickelodeons, is 1960 Cadillac to his and her T-birds, the menagerie spans staged in one room and features drums, horns, triangles the decades. King of Prussia Mall, the nation’s largest retail complex

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Issac Potts’ house was General George Washington’s headquarters in the winter of 1777 at Valley Forge.

Stroll all the aisles and hallways at King of Prussia Mall, the nation’s largest retail complex, and you’ve basically walked across Manhattan. The mall boasts 400 luxury retailers that include Neiman Marcus, Louis Vuitton and Betsey Johnson. Or shop one of the nation’s first malls, Suburban Square in nearby Ardmore. Go behind-the-scenes at national television network, QVC, and visit its gift shop. Save big, 35% to 65%, every day at Philadelphia Premium Outlets, home to 150 designer and name brand stores, like Ann Taylor, Michael Kors and Le Creuset. Culinary delights abound, with tours of Asher’s Chocolates and Herr’s Snack Foods factories available. Edwards-Freeman Nut Company, a 6,000 square-foot “confectionary memory lane,” is chock-full of childhood treats from peanut chews to candy necklaces. Onsite, the store grinds its own peanut, cashew and almond butters. 12 • Byways

Bauman’s Family PA Dutch Fruit Butters and Cider carries on its family tradition of pressing cider from the apples of area orchards with the same 1892 press, now refurbished. Eighteen different fruit products are in their recipe files, so something’s always simmering slowly at the factory store. Birds and wildlife can easily be spotted at John James Audubon Center at Mill Grove, the French-born artist/naturalist’s first home in America. The 175-acre sanctuary offers five miles of scenic trails, as well as canoe tours along the adjacent Perkiomen Creek. For more information on planning a group excursion to the Valley Forge area and Montgomery County, Pennsylvania, please contact Tom Haberland at 610834-7980 or Haberland@valleyforge.org.

Enjoy the George Washington tour.

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Courtesy California Travel and Tourism Commission. Photo by Christian Heeb.

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Ocean Views: Pacific San Francisco’s Golden Gate Bridge, celebrating its 75th Anniversary, sits at the confluence of San Francisco Bay and the Pacific Ocean. Byways • 15

Golden Gate Bridge Turns 75

An estimated 10 million annual visitors to the Golden Gate Bridge will enjoy an even more robust and remarkable experience when visiting San Francisco’s most iconic landmark. Painter on the main cable. © Golden Gate Bridge, Highway and Transportation District. Used with permission. www.goldengate.org 16 • Byways

It was on November 18, 1936, that the two sections of the main span were joined in the middle. From the holdings of the Golden Gate Bridge, Highway and Transportation District. Used with permission. www.goldengate.org

s part of the Golden Gate Bridge’s 75th anniversary year-long celebration, the Golden Gate Bridge, Highway and Transportation District and the Golden Gate National Parks Conservancy—in cooperation with the National Park Service, Presidio Trust, and the City & County of San Francisco—have made significant enhancements to how visitors experience and enjoy the much-loved span. The new facilities and services opened in May of this year. “These visitor services improvements are unprecedented in the Golden Gate Bridge’s 75-year history,” noted Greg Moore, President and CEO, Golden Gate National Parks Conservancy. “While the incredible views of the surrounding national parklands and the experience of walking, biking or driving across the Bridge have always been among the ‘musts’ of any San Francisco visit, until now visitors did not get a chance to experience and connect with the historical, cultural, and human context behind this incredible monument.” Thanks to its partnership with the nonprofit Golden Gate National Parks Conservancy and the National Park Service, the Bridge District was able to assemble a team

of historians, artists, architects, exhibit designers, and naturalists to enhance the Golden Gate Bridge visitor experience. “In 1937, the Golden Gate Bridge opened to worldwide acclaim and became synonymous with the American ideals of innovation, imagination and ingenuity,” commented Denis Mulligan, General Manager of the Golden Gate Bridge, Highway and Transportation District. “Seventy-five years later, we are honored to join our partners in unveiling these dynamic new visitor programs that will support the Bridge’s legacy of invention and inspiration for generations to come.” “The Golden Gate Bridge is the centerpiece of the Golden Gate National Parks,” added Park Superintendent Frank Dean. “At last, visitors will have an experience commensurate with the importance of this breathtaking location.” Designed to showcase the Bridge and all its stories, the new visitor experience includes the following elements: • The Bridge Pavilion, located in the renovated Bridge Plaza on the southeast side of the span, is a 3,500-squareByways • 17

Cars cross the Bridge on its opening day in 1937. From the holdings of the Golden Gate Bridge, Highway and Transportation District. Used with permission. www.goldengate.org

foot “green” building designed to serve as a visitor orientation and welcome center. Rare Bridge artifacts and photographs are complemented by interpretive panels and exhibits presenting the Bridge in its many contexts, while a new museum store further engages visitors through a wide offering of unique educational and commemorative items. The Bridge Pavilion is open daily, year-round from 9:00am-6:00pm. • The Art Deco Round House has been renovated to serve as the starting point for new guided public tours of the Bridge. Incorporating the latest audio broadcasting and listening technology, visitors may sign up for 45- or 60-minute guided walking tours on the Bridge, including the first-ever night tours. Offered daily spring through 18 • Byways

fall, adult ticket prices start at $12.95 per person. Reservations may be made online at goldengatebridgetour.com or by calling 877-349-7625. • Also in the Round House, visitors will discover the Bridge Photo Experience, where they can take a virtual photo placing themselves in daring Bridge backdrops, such as the top of the Bridge Tower. Experience photos are available daily year-round; package cost is $20 per person plus tax. • With both ends of the Bridge anchored by the Golden Gate National Parks—and the Bridge itself serving as a connector for major trails—a key part of the visitor improvements project has focused on the surrounding landscape. Improvements include enhancements to the

Coastal and Bay trails; significantly better bicycle access to the Bridge; creation of the new Golden Gate Overlook in the Presidio offering spectacular panoramic views; and new way-finding and interpretive signage to encourage appreciation and exploration of the national parklands on both sides of the span. • Reinforcing the National Park Service’s Healthy Parks, Healthy People nationwide initiative, a new menu in the Bridge Café offers healthy, affordable grab-and-go fare and beverages featuring locally-sourced and sustainable ingredients. • Visitors can prepare for their trip to the Bridge with the newly-launched GoGGBridge app, available for iPhone and coming soon for Android devices. This free app is packed with maps, tips, fun facts, and more. Download works best with an existing wireless network.

The 75th Anniversary of the Golden Gate Bridge is a year-long celebration and visitor experience. Improvements are funded by private contributions, with major underwriting provided by Wells Fargo, Genentech, HP, and Kaiser Permanente. In addition to the improvement projects, anniversary events included the Golden Gate Festival along the San Francisco waterfront in May and 75 Tributes to the Bridge, a year-long series of public programs by community organizations presented throughout the Bay Area in 2012. For additional information and all public inquiries, please visit www.goldengatebridge75.org.

Golden Gate Bridge Tower and Roadway. Photo by Della Huff

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Coastal California

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Big Sur and the Bixby Creek Arch Bridge. Photo courtesy California Travel and Tourism Commission / Blaise Byways â&#x20AC;˘ 23

California’s Iconic Coast Offers Many Splendors, From Spectacular Beaches to Cool Seaside Towns

hen people think about the most beautiful places on earth they want to visit, California’s iconic coastal destinations are usually on their “most wanted” list. And it’s easy to see why. From cheerfully laid-back surfing beaches in the south and central coast to the soul-stirring, wild redwood inlets of the north, a drive along California’s Highway 1 is a breathtaking adventure, with glamorous waterfront cities and charming coastal towns to savor and explore.

Southern California Coast

San Diego County in Southern California is a must-see region, known for its famous family-friendly theme parks, perfect weather and beautiful beaches with virtually unlimited water sports. A great way to check out the city is to hop on and off the Old Towne Trolley Tours, which start in Old Town, filled with authentic Mexican 24 • Byways

eateries, historic sites and the Old Town Market, where visitors can shop in 40 unique gift stores, watch working artisans and learn about the rich history of Old Town San Diego in the free museum. The trolley then moves on to great attractions in San Diego, such as the Midway Aircraft Carrier Museum, the historic Gaslamp Quarter entertainment district, San Diego Zoo, Balboa Park and Little Italy. One of the stops includes the island of Coronado, where the majestic and romantic Hotel Del Coronado presides. Once host to presidents and kings, the 120year-old landmark still holds its glamorous luster harkening back to Marilyn Monroe in “Some Like it Hot,” filmed there in 1959. Many visitors also enjoy shopping at the marketplace at Coronado Ferry Landing and docent-led historic tours of the island, as well as Silver Strand State Beach, where they can choose from ocean waves on one side and gentle bay waters on the other.

the Masters (where artists dress as masterpieces), the Festival of Arts, the Sawdust Art Festival and the Art-aFair Festival. Art lovers can explore dozens of boutiques, art galleries and sidewalk cafes on foot, then venture over to historic Main Beach, which features a vintage lifeguard tower overlooking an idyllic shore with volleyball nets, basketball courts and a meandering boardwalk.

Newport Beach, boasting miles of sandy beaches, the largest small craft yacht harbor in the United States and championship golf courses, is a sophisticated beach city. Visitors can take part in a variety of aquatic recreational activities, from kayaking in the Newport Back Bay to relaxing on a chartered harbor cruise. Another favorite activity is checking out the multi-million dollar homes along the boardwalk on Balboa Island, eating at the city’s numerous award-winning restaurants or shopping at the luxurious Fashion Island Mall. For a completely different vibe, head north to Huntington Beach, otherwise known as Surf City USA®. From surfwear shops and local wave-rider hangouts to suntanned surfers in search of that perfect wave, visitors can’t help but dive into this beach town’s infectious surf culture. Main Street is the city’s center, featuring the Surfing Walk of Fame, the International Surfing Museum, the Surfers’ Hall of Fame, beachwear shops, casual dining and nightlife

The Huntington Beach Pier at dusk. Photo courtesy California Travel and Tourism Commission and thatgirlproductions.com

Visitors can check out Shamu and other shows at SeaWorld San Diego, and begin making their way up the San Diego County coast on Highway 1, sprinkled with the sleepy beach communities of north San Diego — such as Del Mar, Solana Beach, Encinitas, Leucadia and Carlsbad. There they can shop, enjoy an al fresco coffee or meal and spend the afternoon boogie-boarding or watching the surfers glide over the wave breaks. Surfing fans can visit the California Surf Museum in Oceanside before stopping at the nearby California Welcome Center (CWC) to learn more about local and regional attractions and get maps and visitors guides for trekking up the coast to other areas of the state.

Just north of San Diego is Orange County, known as “The OC” in hit television shows and films that reflect the area’s aspirational coastal lifestyle, such as The O.C. and MTV’s Laguna Beach: the Real OC. Speaking of Laguna Beach, this gorgeous beach city has evolved into an upscale artists’ colony, host to the famous Pageant of

La Jolla Beach, San Diego. Surfing training lesson. Photo courtesy California Travel and Tourism Commission and Andreas Hub Byways • 25

Pismo Beach on the Centra Coast. Photo courtesy California Travel and Tourism Commission and Blaise.

hotspots. At the intersection of Pacific Coast Highway (Highway 1) and Main Street, the Huntington Beach Pier is a popular spot to fish and dine or watch surfers and volleyball players. Adventurous travelers can take in a surf lesson from several beachfront hotels, or enjoy singing and making s’mores by the fire pits that light up the night.

Those looking to star-gaze will feel the gravitational pull of Los Angeles County, home to urban beach communities like Venice Beach and Santa Monica, and celebrity havens like Malibu. Of course, no trip to L.A. would be complete without visiting Universal Studios Hollywood and enjoying a meal at one of many trendy, star-studded restaurants throughout the city. Those looking for cultural pursuits will find many treasures, including Getty Villa in Malibu, the original Getty Museum featuring Greek and Roman antiquities. Visiting Beverly Hills is a must-see for those who like to tour celebrity homes or shop like a star on Rodeo Drive. For more lowkey shopping, visitors can explore Santa Monica and the variety of unique boutiques selling jewelry, clothing, furniture and art created by local designers. For those window-shopping for eye candy, the Venice Beach boardwalk is famous for its bodybuilders and anything26 • Byways

goes scene. Visitors hoping to be dazzled by real stars can visit Griffith Observatory, or drive over to Long Beach and visit the Queen Mary, a star in her own right. Before leaving, visitors will want to experience Hollywood or West Hollywood, areas buzzing with new restaurants, cool clubs and bars.

Central Coast

Once leaving L.A.’s orbit, travelers head north into Ventura County, which marks the beginning of California’s Central Coast. With leading wine regions, produce fresh from the farm and innovative gourmet shops, a Central Coast road trip is a foodie’s dream drive. It also features some of the most spectacular coastal trails, perfect for hiking and photo taking. Outdoor enthusiasts can wander into Point Mugu State Park, located in the Santa Monica Mountains. The park features five miles of stunning coastal shoreline and over 70 trails by the beaches, rugged hills, two major river canyons and wide grassy valleys dotted with sycamores and oaks. Then they can stop off at one of many charming produce stands in Oxnard, the “Strawberry Capital” of California, followed by lunch in charming and historic

downtown Ventura, home of the Channel Islands National Park Visitors Center. Walk off your meal and stroll past fabulous galleries and boutiques, visit the historic San Buenaventura Mission or check out the popular Ventura County Wine Trail. The California Welcome Center in Oxnard is a great place to get additional insider tips on the area or pre-plan a trip to other parts of the state. Santa Barbara, the American Riviera, beckons with its charming Old World Mediterranean architecture, cloistered mission, airy art museum and posh shops. Visitors can spend the afternoon shopping for the latest fashions on State Street or the stunning outdoor Paso Nuevo. Each Sunday, more than 200 artisans set up along Cabrillo Boulevard on the waterfront from 10am until dusk for the revered Arts and Crafts Show, which started in 1965. The Channel Islands Marine Sanctuary near Santa Barbara encompasses waters off five islands extending seven miles out to sea; it’s a top-notch landscape for fishing, kayaking, diving and whale-watching. Many pursue their favorite wines in the Santa Ynez Valley, a leading wine region in the state, with a stop for dinner northwest of the city in Buellton at the Hitching Post II, made famous in the international hit film Sideways. There foodies can enjoy fabulous local wines with Santa Maria barbecue, a regional Spanish Ranchero-style of grilling over an open fire of red oak. Also in the Santa Ynez Valley, the picturesque Danish-inspired city of Solvang is filled with mouthwatering traditional bakeries serving Danish pastries, breads and foods. Those who indulge in the rich food can work off the calories by visiting some of the more than 200 European-style shops, antique stores and museums.

About an hour northwest of Solvang is Pismo Beach in San Luis Obispo County, a fun and youthful beach community where visitors can drive or stretch their legs on incredibly wide, sandy beaches. Many visitors enjoy fishing from the 1,200-foot pier, horseback riding on the beach, catching ocean views while strolling along the award-winning boardwalk or racing a four-wheel ATV over the dunes. Bargain hunters won’t want to miss shopping at the Pismo Beach Premium Outlets, featuring a popular California

Welcome Center for local, regional and state tourism information.

Just a little inland north on Highway 1 is San Luis Obispo, a vibrant college town where visitors can explore the historic mission and browse through one-ofa-kind shops and public art along the meandering river. Browse colorful produce and fresh flowers and enjoy the community vibe at downtown San Luis Obispo’s Thursday evening farmers’ market. Heading northwest back to the coast, stop off at the charming seaside community of Cambria for quaint shops and fine dining. The town’s Welsh name is apt, for in the spring the hills turn an emerald green reminiscent of Wales, perfect for hiking. Just north in San Simeon stands one of the most The Hearst Castle in San Simeon. Photo courtesy California Travel and Tourism Commission and Blaise.

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Russian Gulch State Park, the coast near Mendocino. Photo courtesy California Travel and Tourism Commission and Christian Heeb. Byways â&#x20AC;˘ 29

amazing sights in California – the world-famous Hearst Castle. The modern-day castle, once the palatial estate of newspaper magnate William Randolph Hearst, is now a state historical monument offering stunning art collections, lush gardens, magnificent pools and sweeping ocean vistas. Just up the road is a great observation area for northern elephant seals at Piedras Blancas rookery.

On the way to Monterey, many wonders await. Visitors are advised to take some time exploring the local wine region, then navigate the thrilling hairpin turns of the Pacific Coast Highway in Big Sur, passing cliffside waterfalls, lookout peaks and hidden hot springs, and stopping to dine with out-of-this-world ocean views. This is where the ocean becomes colder and rougher, the cliffs steeper and higher; fog often reigns all the way up to Crescent City near the Oregon border. If they’re really lucky, visitors to Big Sur can spot a rare California condor. Those who still “feel lucky” can make their way to Clint Eastwood’s Hogs Breath Inn Restaurant & Bar in Carmel-by-the-Sea for a Dirty Harry Burger. Visitors will want to cruise and snap shots of the 17-Mile Drive from Pacific Grove through the world-famous golf resort town of Pebble Beach, then tour Mission Carmel at the mouth of the Carmel Valley or linger inside art galleries and boutiques downtown. Monterey’s Cannery Row, which was once the heart of a thriving sardine-packing industry, reflects a time immortalized in John Steinbeck’s novel (fans of the author can check out the National Steinbeck Center and his boyhood home in nearby Oldtown Salinas). There they can shop, dine, go fishing or whale watching and discover life in Monterey’s bay at the Monterey Bay Aquarium. Those who want to get up close and personal with the bay can scuba dive from Monterey’s San Carlos Beach, a small harbor beach considered one of the state’s foremost “jumping in” spots for dive lessons and individual underwater exploration.

Wine lovers can enjoy the Santa Cruz Mountains wine region, touted as the “most underappreciated appellation in the world” by Wine Spectator magazine, known for its outstanding pinot noirs. After wine tasting, visitors can discover the charming wine country town of Los Gatos, featuring wine tasting rooms, unique gift shops and casually upscale eateries. For a change of pace, they can drive to San Jose – the capital of Silicon Valley – to visit Winchester Mystery House, the spooky mansion of the late heiress Sarah Winchester, followed by shopping and dinner on trendy Santana Row.

Northern California

About 50 minutes northwest of San Jose is delightful Half Moon Bay in San Mateo County, featuring great seaside restaurants and brewpubs where visitors can enjoy lunch while watching surfers riding the waves. Those looking to do more than observe can kayak among seals, birds and other marine life in protected Pillar Point Harbor or the wild waters of the open Pacific. Or, they can go on a whale watching or deep-sea fishing tour or horseback ride along the crescent-shaped beach. Off this very coast is the world-famous surf area, Mavericks, where pro surfers challenge waves over 50 feet. Those looking for other types of entertainment can check out La Nebbia Winery or shop for treasures downtown on Main Street, where they offer everything from antique furniture to fine art and jewelry. Or, travel 30 minutes south on Highway 1 and check out Año Nuevo State Reserve to see northern elephant seals year-round. In the winter (mid-December through the end of March), visitors can take escorted docent tours through an active northern elephant seal rookery, one of the largest mainland breeding colonies.

Another 45 minutes northeast is the world-famous Fisherman’s Wharf in San Francisco, filled with many shops, galleries and museums along the wharf, or nearby Ghiradelli Square. There they can shop at two of the most popular attractions – Pier 39, known for fun shopping, dining and resident sea lions – and Union Square, known for its high-end shopping. Another option is to catch a ferry to the infamous Alcatraz Island, the former penitentiary of some of the 20th century’s most notorious criminals. Culture lovers have many museums to choose from, including the California Academy of Sciences and the De Young Museum in Golden Gate Park, the largest park in San Francisco and also the location of the Japanese Tea Garden, an outdoor botanical garden, and the Conservatory of Flowers.

Just north of Monterey is Santa Cruz, a popular surf town where visitors can watch surfers ride the waves from the bluffs of Steamer Lane. A must-see is Santa Cruz Beach Boardwalk, an oceanfront amusement park where you can ride the Giant Dipper, a 1920s wooden roller coaster. Explore the unknown at The Mystery Spot, a gravitational anomaly located in the redwood forests just outside of Santa Cruz. Discovered in 1939 by a group of surveyors and opened to the public in 1940, the spot has amazed and perplexed visitors from all over the world, who experience puzzling variations of gravity, perspective and height. Nearby Big Basin Redwoods State Park, California’s oldest State Park, is home to the largest continuous stand of ancient coast redwoods south Music lovers will appreciate a visit to the historic of San Francisco, with more than 80 miles of trails, Fillmore jazz district, once host to jazz greats like Ella group camping, tent cabins, backpacking camps, hiking, Fitzgerald, Louis Armstrong and Billie Holiday and now mountain biking and equestrian trails. home to several renowned jazz bars such as Yoshi’s and 30 • Byways

Tour Shasta Dam

Explore Shasta Caverns

Stroll the Sundial Bridge

the Fillmore Street Jazz Festival. Active visitors who want to get out of the car for a while can take one of many themed walking tours of the city – from comedy and architecture to haunted and culinary – or take a biking tour from the wharf over the Golden Gate Bridge to Sausalito, riding back on a ferry. Or they can hop on a variety of guided vehicle tours, or tour around on their own via the BART train or cable cars.

Free Parking, Free Internet, Fresh Air, Open Roads and Hassel Free. 530-225-4105 Laurie@VisitRedding.com www.VisitRedding.com

Mount Shasta

cool dips on hot summer days. About 30 minutes north of Stinson Beach’s laid-back restaurants and shops is Point Reyes National Seashore, an oceanfront national park with abundant hiking, such as the popular Bear Valley Trail, which starts at the visitor’s center, travels mostly streamside through a shaded, fern-laden canyon, breaks out at Divide Meadow before heading gently downward to the coast, where it emerges at the spectacular ocean view at Arch Rock. Three trails connecting from the west with the Bear Valley trail head

On the way north into Marin County, stop at the southern or northern vista points on the Golden Gate Bridge to see spectacular views of San Francisco and Marin. Once in Marin, visitors will want to stop over at the bayfront town of Sausalito, an upscale artists’ colony filled with galleries and al fresco eateries. On the way to Stinson Beach, which has a classic southern California beach town feel with its powdery sand, soaring cliff views and bracingly cool but swimmable surf, stop off at Muir Woods to peek at some redwood trees. This marks the beginning of California’s North Coast region, which boasts miles and miles of relaxing wideopen beaches that offer a contrast to the cheerfully crowded coastlines farther south. Even in the summer, they are windswept, edged with redwood trees and dotted with The Point Cabrillo Lighthouse near Mendocino. Courtesy California Travel and Tourism Commission dramatic cliffs and rocky coves. This region and Andreas Hub. also has many natural inland lakes that invite Byways • 31

Lost Coast Black Sands. You don’t have to travel to Hawaii to experience beaches made of volcanic black sands—they’re to be found right in Humboldt County on the famous Lost Coast. Journey to the village of Shelter Cove to experience the natural beauty, serenity and adventure of the Lost Coast. Photo by Jack Hopkins. Courtesy Humbolt County CVB.

upward toward Mt. Wittenberg, at 1,407 feet (429 m), the highest point in the park. The northernmost part of the peninsula is maintained as a reserve for Tule elk, which are readily seen there. The Point Reyes Lighthouse attracts whale-watchers looking for the gray whale migrating south in mid-January and north in midMarch. The Point Reyes Lifeboat Station is a National Historic Landmark – the last remaining example of a rail-launched lifeboat station that was common on the Pacific coast. Kule Loklo, a recreated Coast Miwok village, is a short walk from the visitor center. Tomales Bay, an inlet that separates the Point Reyes Peninsula from Mainland Marin, is known for its oyster farming. The two largest producers on the mainland are Tomales Bay Oyster Co. and Hog Island Oyster Co., both of which retail oysters to the public and have picnic grounds on the east shore.

As visitors head north into Sonoma County, there are plenty of great seaside towns to explore, as well as several wineries just a little bit inland from the coast. Visitors can take a quick hike on the Bodega Head promontory and see whales from atop the rugged cliffs. For a closer look at local sea life, they can check out the Marine Lab run by UC Davis, which opens for free tours 2pm to 4pm on Fridays. Those who prefer their sea life on a plate will want to check out some of the local restau32 • Byways

rants featuring fresh catch, such as the Spud Point Crab Company, which offers outdoor seating. Art lovers can get a free peek at renowned Ren Brown Collection Gallery, a contemporary Japanese art gallery that has hosted the first U.S. exhibits for many Japanese artists. Bodega Bay offers many festivals and events, such as the Crab Feed in January, and the Fisherman’s Festival in April. Also in April is Castles & Kites, which celebrates the area’s reputation as a great kite-flying destination, complete with demonstrations and training on the beach with sand sculpture creations. Up the coast is another great place for hiking, camping and coastal rock climbing – Sonoma Coast State Beach – which boasts long sandy beaches below rugged headlands, a craggy coastline with natural arches and secluded coves. Goat Rock, near the mouth of the Russian River, is known for its scenic shoreline and easily accessible sandy beach, where one can picnic and see a colony of playful harbor seals. Venture inland into the Russian River Valley for wine tasting or biking by vineyards, hiking in Armstrong Redwoods State Park or kayaking in the river (or on the bay itself).

Venturing north along Highway 1 takes visitors up into breathtaking Mendocino County, known for its romantic, wild redwood coastal beaches, as well as a bountiful wine valley further inland. Stornetta Public Lands near

Point Arena has wildlife, views and sensational sunsets. This 1,132-acre preserve offers coastal hiking along high bluffs and a waterfall tumbling over the sea cliffs to meet the Pacific. The Garcia River, one of the last free-flowing rivers in California, empties into the Pacific here, offering access to prime Coho and Chinook salmon habitat that is a key recovery area in Endangered Species Act listings. The preserve also includes wetlands, ponds, cypress groves, meadows and sand dunes with great bird watching opportunities. Picture-perfect Mendocino is the only town on the California coast that is designated as a Historical Landmark. Established in the 1850s, the village’s grand Victorians and quaint saltbox cottages with lush flower gardens – some of them phenomenal B&Bs – have made the area a photographer’s paradise. There are many gourmet restaurants in the town, many of which feature wines from the nearby Anderson Valley. Chocolate connoisseurs should check out Mendocino Chocolate Company, where they can buy fresh chocolate truffles, nuts, chews and specialty chocolates in redwood boxes.

town of Fort Bragg, the largest coastal community between San Francisco and Eureka. Once a booming logging town, Fort Bragg is now a hub for state parks and reserves. The area’s Mendocino Coast Botanical Gardens are the only ones in the continental U.S. fronting directly on the ocean, while the famous Skunk Train from Fort Bragg to Willits takes visitors on a route through the redwoods that is accessible only by railroad. Many outdoor recreation activities common along the north coast, from horseback riding and kayaking to sports fishing and hiking, are easily accessed here.

Humboldt County to the north is the home of the world-famous Avenue of the Giants – also called the redwood highway – a 31-mile inland route that is considered one of the greatest drives in the world. Avenue of the Giants parallels U.S. 101 from just north of Garberville to Scotia, winding through an amazing stretch of towering redwood forest parkland. Visitors can walk the pristine trails of Humboldt Redwoods State Park, which protects the largest remaining stand of virgin redwoods in the world. A visit here must include Just north of the village is Point Cabrillo Light Station, Rockefeller Forest, laced with trails that lead to the secwhich was essential in guiding boats and keeping them ond, fourth, sixth and eighth tallest trees in the world, as away from the hazardous shoreline in the early 20th cen- well as the ultimate “Champion Coast Redwood,” towtury. The light station is surrounded by a 270-acre nature ering some 370 feet overhead. Visitors love to stop off at preserve, making it an especially worthwhile stop for the Shrine Drive-Thru Tree in Myers Flat, one of severleg-stretching and nature-viewing. Farther north is the al drive-through trees along the redwood highway where

James Irvine Trail, Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park. This is one of the most beautiful and accessible hiking trails on the Redwood Coast, leading from the park visitor center at Elk Prairie all the way to Fern Canyon and the beach. Photo by Carrie Grant. Courtesy Humbolt County CVB. Byways • 33

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cars can pass through a tight tunnel carved into a naturally angled opening in the trunk. The main hub of activities in the Southern Humboldt county area is Garberville, where visitors can find a nice variety of eating establishments, lodging and unique shops. Garberville is just 10 minutes from the Avenue of the Giants and about 45 minutes from Shelter Cove, which boasts excellent ocean fishing, beachcombing and mountain trail hiking. Wine and food lovers will not be disappointed in this remote region, which boasts the Benbow Inn Restaurant, a local favorite that has received the Wine Spectator magazine Excellence Award for six years. The city of Eureka’s Restaurant 301, lauded by culinary publications such as Bon Appetit, is one of the few eateries in the world to win the Wine Spectator Grand Award. Eureka, a Victorian seaport, is known as the best small arts town in America with a growing Cultural Arts District. The district, which features free ongoing events from visual to performing arts, is anchored by the Morris Graves Museum of Art, which houses seven premier galleries; a young artists’ academy; a performance rotunda for music, dance and the literary arts; and the offices of the Humboldt Arts Council. Tucked away on the south side of town is the Sequoia Park & Zoo, a 77-acre tract of old-growth redwoods with nature trails, a duck pond, two playgrounds and a charming small zoo. Nearby Fort Humboldt State Historic Park features reconstructed army buildings from the mid1800s, one of them containing an excellent museum, and an expansive outdoor museum of early logging equipment.

The last stretch of California before the Oregon Border is Del Norte County, home of Redwoods National Park, which recently added a new 3.2-mile trail with the help of youth from the Conservation Corps of California – the Berry Glen Trail – to introduce visitors to a collection of stunning old-growth giants. The county is home to laidback and fun family activities, such as the Trees of Mystery, a mile of groomed interpretive redwood trail that is partly devoted to the myth and mythology of Paul Bunyan, America’s larger-than-life logger from the turn of the century. The attraction’s Sky Trail takes visitors above the forest canopy for a spectacular once-in-a-lifetime view from the treetops. Enjoy free admission to End of the Trail Native American Museum, one of the best privately owned collections of Native American artifacts in the world. In the summer months, the nearly 50-foottall Paul Bunyan and his 35-foot-tall friend, Babe the Blue Ox, wave and welcome visitors. Other attractions include the Tour Thru Tree in Klamath and Ocean World aquarium in the charming town of Crescent City, which features abundant sea life, shark petting, an interactive tide pool and a fun sea lion performance. Also in Crescent City is the gorgeous Battery Point Lighthouse, one of the first lighthouses in the state, located on a tiny islet off the coast. The Del Norte County Historical

Society M a i n Museum offers various displays, such as artifacts made by local Tolowa and Yurok tribes and one of the finest N a t i v e American basket collections in Northern California. The museum also features vintage musical instruments, old radio, The Eureka Boardwalk serves phonograph- as the anchor for commercial, ic and photo- retail and residential developg r a p h i c ments. Photo by Don Leonard. equipment, Courtesy Humbolt County CVB. excellent needlework, early logging and mining tools and equipment and many fashions and furniture from the city’s early history. The Bolen Annex houses the magnificent First Order Fresnel Lens from the Saint George Reef Lighthouse, and photo carousels throughout the museum chronicle the people and events of Del Norte County. The area is perfect for enjoying a wide variety of outdoor recreational opportunities by land and sea, from rafting and kayaking to camping and bird watching in pristine wilderness. The region is particularly popular for fishing, featuring great locations such as the Smith River north of Crescent City where visitors can stand in the water and try to catch a world-record steelhead.

About Visit California: Visit California is a non-profit organization with a mission to develop and maintain marketing programs – in partnership with the state’s travel industry – that keep California top-of-mind as a premier travel destination. According to Visit California, travel and tourism expenditures total $95.1 billion annually in California, $17 billion of which is international; supports jobs for 873,000 Californians; and generates $6.1 billion in state and local tax revenues. For more information visit www.visitcalifornia.com. Byways • 35

regon’s share of the Pacific coastline owes its international reputation to the rugged beauty and natural wonders found all along its nearly 400mile length. Lewis and Clark ended their epic journey on the north coast near Astoria – a wonderful place to start yours. The entire coast is studded with singular sights, from dramatic rock formations to churning whirlpools to miles and miles of sandy beaches. The rich history of the coast is offered up in the worldclass Oregon Coast Aquarium in Newport, a host of museums and historic homes, and inside Oregon’s lighthouses. Some of the state’s best camping parks are on the edge of the ocean, as are recreational opportunities galore – whale watching, fishing, golfing, surfing and hiking. In Oregon they don’t call the beach the beach, they call it the coast. 36 • Byways

That’s because some of its beaches are sandy dunes so high and wide that to call them mere beaches would be an insult. Other parts are covered by the docks of working ports, host to fishing boats bringing fresh sustainable seafood to market. Still other beaches are atop sheer cliffs rising straight out of the ocean, and are topped with hiking trails, lighthouses and some of the finest golf courses in the world. But the best things about Oregon’s beaches, which they call the coast, is that every inch of all 363 miles of it are completely free for all of us to use. Oregon’s North Coast, stretching from the Columbia River to Neskowin, possesses longer stretches of unbroken beach (due to silt deposits washed southwards from the Columbia River), a higher concentration of logging zones, and larger, but less frequent sandbar-enclosed bays. Astoria, located on the Columbia River, is the northern-most city in the state.

Southward view from Ecola State Park, Northern Oregon Coast.

Oregonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Rugged Coast The Central Coast, which extends from Lincoln City to Florence, while similar to the North Coast, possesses fewer sandy beaches, more sea cliffs and terraces, and a greater number of bays. Several small urban areas exist in this region. Among these are the cities of Depoe Bay, Newport, Waldport, and Yachats. The South Coast region, which extends south from Reedsport to the Oregon-California Border, is distinct from the North and Central Coast regions because of its mountainous nature. Much of the coastline in this region is made up of sea cliffs and miles of beaches. Among the landscape of the region exists the Oregon Dunes. There

Harbor in Yaquina Bay, Newport, Oregon Byways â&#x20AC;˘ 37

Tillamook Rock Lighthouse, an abandoned lighthouse near Tillamook Rock, Oregon

are seven incorporated cities on the south coast: Reedsport, North Bend, Coos Bay, Bandon, Port Orford, Gold Beach, and Brookings. A popular destination for visitors is Oregon’s historic lighthouses, most of which date to before 1900. Because the Oregon and Washington coasts have been traditionally thought of as some of the most dangerous seas in the world, several lighthouses and a lightship were commissioned to aid sailors in navigating. Of the original 12 lights, nine are still in use. However, in recent years, two private lights, Pelican Bay Light and Cleft of the Rock Light have been built, The waves that make the Oregon coast dangerous for vessels are attractive for those who love to ride the waves. Surfing in Oregon rivals some of the best locations in the world. Of course, the water is a few degrees cooler, so bring a wetsuit. Surf spots dot the entire coastline, and one popular place is Oswald West State Park, just south of Cannon Beach. Backed by rugged, forested cliffs, the park provides gentle swells for beginners and pros alike. For a more intense experience, the world’s top surfers have just 48 hours’ notice to descend on Lincoln City for the annual Nelscott Reef Tow-In Classic, one of only two professional tow-in surfing contests in the world. The large swells off Lincoln City result from the first winter storms reaching the Oregon Coast while a dominant high 38 • Byways

pressure system remains over the Northwest. Translation? Giant waves, some reaching a staggering 40 feet. To maintain its delicate and beautiful nature, former Governor Tom McCall introduced legislation in 1967 designating all of Oregonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s beaches for public access, protecting the entire coast from encroachment. For more on the coast region, see http://traveloregon.com/cities-regions/oregon-coast/ or www.visittheoregoncoast.com. For more information on visiting Oregon, visit http://traveloregon.com.

Heceta Head Lighthouse near Florence, Oregon.

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Portland Head Light is a historic lighthouse in Cape Elizabeth, Maine that sits at the entrance of the shipping channel into Casco Bay.

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Ocean Views: Atlantic

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Maine’s History of Guiding Sailors to Safety

The Cape Neddick Lighthouse stands on Nubble Island off Cape Neddick Point. It is commonly known as Nubble Light or simply The Nubble. Cape Neddick Point is at the north end of Long Sands Beach in the village of York Beach. The lighthouse is inaccessible to the general public, but the nearby mainland is occupied by Sohier Park which offers a telescope with which to view the lighthouse and a gift shop with a “Nubble” theme.

arved by glaciers thousands of years ago, Maine’s coastline is a jumble of points, passages, bays, inlets, coves, and fjord-like fingers of land reaching into a sea dotted by hundreds of little islands, ledges and shoals. To navigate these unusually complicated and dangerous waters, mariners needed help. Beginning in 1794, an array of lighthouses was established to help them find their way. The lighthouses stood atop dangerous isles and ledges, warning skippers to beware. They guided vessels to nav42 • Byways

igable water channels and marked the mouths of rivers. During the most terrible storms and the foggiest nights, they stood against the elements, fixed points of light and hope helping sailors of all sorts to chart a safe course to their destinations. Maine is known as “The Lighthouse State” for good reasons. By the turn of the 20th century, at least 70 lighthouses guarded its craggy seacoast, its deepest rivers and even one lake. A mariner could sail up and down the coast and always have a lighthouse in sight. Sixty-five of these beacons still stand. There are more lighthouses

portion and also to those who enjoy Yankee ingenuity, along with its occasional quirks. With some science and luck and quite a few mistakes, they came to have a luminous, effective technology. Somehow Maine lighthouses attracted a cadre of keepers who, with their families and other assistants, were remarkable not only for their dedication to the job, but for their many acts of bravery and heroism as well as some misbehavior and even madness. Since before the states became a union, since before Maine was itself a state, the lighthouses of Maine have been guiding seafaring souls into and out of harbors along the sometimes treacherous coastline. Often the lights were a mariner’s one fighting chance against the ravages of the sea and nature’s deadly storms. Whether in search of the sea’s bounty or in service of merchant trades, past the beacons the ships went, bravely, their crews comforted by the thought that the lights would be there upon their return, guiding their way home.

The Pemaquid Point Light Station located in Bristol, Maine. The lighthouse was commissioned in 1827 by John Quincy Adams and built that year. here than in any other states but Michigan and New York, and more coastal lighthouses than anywhere in the nation! Maine is a great place to see the distinctive towers and explore their rich history. The lighthouses became much more than directional aids. In their remote and often spectacular settings, they developed a distinctive look that continues to appeal to admirers of beauty and pro-

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Soak in Virginia’s Coastal Summertime Fun

The waves come ashore at Assateague Island National Seashore, which offers a bounty of outdoor recreational activities. Photo courtesy Bill Crabtree, Jr., Virginia Tourism Corporation. Byways • 45

f you are passionate about spending quality time together, look to the east and Virginia’s 3,000 miles of coastline. Virginia’s many beaches and waterfront destinations, including beachfront paradise along the Atlantic Ocean and the Chesapeake Bay, are full of fun and adventure. Memorable destinations such as the Eastern Shore, Virginia Beach, Norfolk, Hampton and the Chesapeake Bay present unique summer vacation options that cater to families looking to live life to the fullest.

Wildlife Wonders of the Eastern Shore Virginia’s Eastern Shore is a unique destination for families seeking fun in the sun in a natural backdrop. Home to several pristine beaches and wildlife preserves, the Eastern Shore is a summertime delight. 46 • Byways

At the southern tip of the Eastern Shore is Kiptopeke State Park, a perfect place for families who love beaches, nature and camping. Kiptopeke’s beachfront hugs nearly half a mile of the Chesapeake Bay. The park offers four miles of hiking trails and is the only Virginia state park to feature a yurt – a cross between a tent and a cabin. The Kiptopeke yurt has a spectacular view of the Chesapeake Bay with a large wooden deck, picnic table and fire ring. Families will also love the park’s five, 6-bedroom lodges with gas fireplaces. Cape Charles Beach is known for shallow Bay waters and no waves, ideal for families with small children. Cape Charles is the Eastern Shore’s southern-most town on the Chesapeake Bay. Cape Charles is a quintessential Virginia small town, with B&Bs, restaurants and shops lining the main street.

The Virginia Beach oceanfront. Photo courtesy Cameron Davidson, Virginia Tourism Corporation

It’s also just minutes away from the 1200-acre Eastern Shore of Virginia National Wildlife Refuge, one of Virginia’s premier birding and wildlife sites.

Visit the Shore’s sister islands of Chincoteague and Assateague, at the northern tip of the peninsula to experience natural gems for wildlife and pure beach bliss. The National Wildlife Refuge in Chincoteague includes more than 14,000 acres of beach, dunes, birds and wildlife. The unspoiled scenery of Assateague is the perfect backdrop for gazing upon the island’s wild life. In addition to an expansive, pristine beach, Assateague operates two visitor centers and miles of hiking trails. One of the best hikes is up to the top of the Assateague lighthouse. Visit in July for the annual Pony Swim and Auction, where saltwater cowboys round up the ponies on Assateague and swim them across to Chincoteague.

Broaden the Chincoteague experience by enjoying delightful B&B’s, restaurants, shops, craft galleries and one-of-a-kind museums. Camping, crabbing, fishing, kayaking, canoeing, hiking and bicycling add to the family bonding.

Action-packed Family Fun at Virginia Beach Those seeking an action-packed beach experience will find it at Virginia Beach. The longest pleasure beach in the United States, it’s perfect for building sand castles, collecting sea shells or lounging under an umbrella. Along Virginia Beach’s 3-mile oceanfront boardwalk, families can bike, roller blade or rent a tandem bike. Fishermen big and small love the waters around Byways • 47

The Chesapeake Bay Bridge Tunnel connects the Virginia mainland at Virginia Beach with Virginiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Eastern Shore. Both a travel convenience and a tourist attraction, this 17.6 mile toll facility is an award-winning engineering marvel and is considered one of the seven man-made wonders of the modern world. Photo courtesy Cameron Davidson/CameronDavidson.com. Virginia Tourism Corp.

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Peek into the past at the original Cape Henry Lighthouse, located on the Fort Story military base in Virginia Beach. Dating to 1791, it’s the oldest government-built lighthouse in America. Across the road is the new Cape Henry Lighthouse. Photo courtesy Virginia Beach CVB.

Virginia Beach. Many free, family-oriented events take place along the boardwalk, such as concerts, festivals and sporting events. There is also Beach Street USA, featuring free entertainment along Atlantic Avenue with jugglers, mimes, jazz music and more - all adding to the excitement of Virginia Beach.

Ships Ahoy in Norfolk Norfolk is the destination for families with little sailors. Kids and grown-ups will marvel at the sea life and nautical treasures at Nauticus. Nauticus is an interactive science center with a maritime theme and features more than 150 exhibits, giant screen films, exotic aquaria and touch pools. The USS Wisconsin, one of the last Not every Virginia Beach activity is fast paced. There and largest battleships built by the U.S. Navy, is adjacent is also opportunity to gaze at beach wildlife at the 800- to Nauticus and open for main deck tours. acre Back Bay National Wildlife Refuge and at First Norfolk’s Ocean View Beach stretches continuously Landing State Park, with outstanding hiking and biking along eight miles of the Chesapeake Bay. The city’s trails for families with a passion for nature. beaches are wide with gentle surf, lifeguards in the sumA trip to Virginia Beach isn’t complete without visiting mer, picnic pavilions and free parking. Norfolk’s Town the state’s largest aquarium, the Virginia Aquarium & Point Park overlooks the harbor and is the site for many Marine Science Center. With 700,000 gallons of aquar- events, such as the annual Harborfest every June, featuriums, live animal habitats, three touch tanks, more than ing a fine array of tall ships. 300 hands-on exhibits, an outdoor aviary, 10 acres of marsh habitat and a three-mile nature trail, boredom is Space and Sea in Hampton simply not an option! Highlights include sharks, sea turHampton is the birthplace of America’s space program tles, harbor seals, river otters, stingrays and more. The and home to NASA Langley and Langley Air Force aquarium also has 3D IMAX® Theater with a screen Base. The Virginia Air & Space Center in Hampton is the that’s six stories high. visitor center for both sites, so families can mix fun and learning. Visitors can take a virtual voyage to Mars, fly a Byways • 49

For the fishing enthusiast, Virginia Beach offers 4 piers from which to cast a line. The Virginia Beach Fishing Pier located on 15th Street features souvenir shops, a restaurant and a great place to view the oceanfront Boardwalk. Photo courtesy Virginia Beach CVB.

full size DC-9 aircraft, and launch a rocket. They can see Fishing for Fun in Virginia’s Tributaries Tales of imaginary catches are not necessary in a moon rock, a Mars meteorite and the Apollo 12 Command Module, plus enjoy 3D IMAX films on a Virginia. Fishermen revel in the variety of both freshwater and saltwater fish in the tributaries to the five-story screen. Chesapeake Bay and Atlantic Ocean. In the Northern What about the water? Hampton has 12 deep-water Neck, which stretches between the Rappahannock and marinas as well as Buckroe Beach, which offers eight Potomac Rivers, five small public beaches run along the acres of beach, a playground, picnic shelters, a walking Potomac, such as Westmoreland State Park’s beach and and bike path, a pet-friendly Bark Park and concert band- Colonial Beach, the northernmost beach and site of stand. In the summer months, visitors can swing to the George Washington’s Birthplace. sounds of the Sunday night Groovin’ by the Bay conTo start making plans to live out passions for travel and certs, or view an outdoor movie at the Tuesday night POMOCO Family Movie Series. Beach chair, umbrel- family fun this summer along Virginia’s many beaches, la, kayak and paddlecraft rentals are available and park- visit www.Virginia.org or call 1-800-932-5827 to request ing is plentiful, making a visit to Buckroe Beach a free copy of the Live Passionately – Virginia is for Lovers Travel Guide. convenient and enjoyable. 50 • Byways

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Lighthouses Reveal North Carolinaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Maritime History

The Currituck Beach Light is a lighthouse located on the Outer Banks in Corolla, North Carolina. 52 â&#x20AC;˘ Byways

ighthouses are a fascinating feature of the North Carolina coast. Visitors can find a unique lighthouse about every 40 miles along the picturesque shore of North Carolina. In more than two centuries of history, North Carolina lighthouses have endured untold adventure. They have been moved, demolished and reincarnated. From the Civil War to high winds and relentless erosion, each beacon has a story to tell. Currituck Beach Lighthouse North Carolina’s northernmost lighthouse lies about 30 miles south of Virginia’s Cape Henry Light Station. The Currituck Beach Lighthouse, located in the Corolla community, was built on the same basic model as the towers at Bodie Island, Cape Lookout and Cape Hatteras, but Currituck Lighthouse sports a distinctive red brick façade. Its approximately 1 million bricks were left unpainted to help seafarers distinguish it from its neighbors. Completed in 1875, the 158-foot Currituck Beach Lighthouse was the last of the brick lighthouses constructed on the North Carolina coast. It’s one of only eight lighthouses in the nation using its historic first-order Fresnel lens, which casts a beam that’s visible for about 19 miles. From Easter to Thanksgiving, visitors can climb 241 steps to the top of the Currituck lighthouse, which has been lovingly restored. Bodie Island Lighthouse Bodie Island Lighthouse has had it troubles. Disagreements over the location delayed its initial construction for 10 years. Construction finally began in 1847, but the structure was leaning toward the ocean even before it was completed, and within two years, one side had dropped a foot lower than the other. Attempts to prop it up failed, and a new, 90-foot brick tower was built in 1859. More misfortune befell the Bodie Island Lighthouse in 1861 when Confederate troops slipped into the lighthouse and blew it up to keep it from serving Union ships. After the war, another tower was built, this one on the model of the Cape Lookout Lighthouse. Shortly after its 1872 opening, a flock of geese flew into the 150-foot-tall structure and damaged the beacon’s lens. The light’s latest setback stemmed from structural problems discovered during a major restoration and a lack of funds to fix them. But work has resumed, and by spring 2013, the lighthouse will be open to visitors who want to climb its 214 steps, and the newly restored first order Fresnel lens will burn bright again on the Cape Hatteras National Seashore.

Cape Hatteras Lighthouse The 208-foot Cape Hatteras Lighthouse is the tallest lighthouse on the American coast. Located in Buxton, this tower is made of 1.2 million bricks that were hauled to the site by oxen. Its walls are 14 feet thick at the base. The lighthouse presides over Diamond Shoals, projecting light 20 miles into the Atlantic and warning travelers away from this dangerous area known as the “Graveyard of the Atlantic.” There have been three different lighthouses at Cape Hatteras, the first erected in 1803. Today’s lighthouse was begun in 1869 and was once so threatened by erosion that in 1936 a steel skeleton tower in nearby Buxton Woods replaced it. The erosion reversed in 1950, and the brick lighthouse was reactivated. In the summer of 1999, the National Park Service moved the Cape Hatteras Lighthouse 2,900 feet from its original location. It still rests there today on a new concrete foundation just 1,600 feet from the shoreline, the Ocracoke Light was built in Hyde County, on Ocracoke Island, North Carolina in 1823 by Massachusetts builder Noah Porter.

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same distance it stood from the sea when it was completed in 1870. From mid-April through midOctober, visitors can climb the 248 iron spiral stairs to the top. Cape Lookout Lighthouse Many believe the patterns painted on the Cape Lookout and Cape Hatteras lighthouses should be switched. Legend has it that the diamond pattern was intended for Cape Hatteras Lighthouse, which guards the dangerous Diamond Shoals. Cape Lookout, too, marks a sailor’s nightmare — Lookout Shoals, also known as the “Horrible Headlands.” The first lighthouse here was a 96-foot-tall, brick-and-wood tower built in 1812, but it was not tall enough. Congress authorized a new one to be erected in 1859. In 1864, Confederate troops blew up the stairs in an attempt to destroy the lighthouse. The diamond pattern was painted in 1873 as a means for sailors to distinguish several identical lighthouses in the daylight. To reach the Cape Lookout Lighthouse, visitors must approach by boat and can tour the light keeper’s home. From late May to late September, visitors can climb the 207 stairs to the gallery. Ocracoke Lighthouse The oldest active lighthouse in North Carolina, Ocracoke Lighthouse is 75 feet tall and the only one located within the confines of a town. The original lighthouse, a wooden structure, was struck by lightning in 1818, burned down and rebuilt in 1823. Bodie Island Lighthouse, built in 1871, is on the In 1868, the tower was cemented and covered Cape Hatteras National Seashore, part of the with its first coat of whitewash. Like a streetlamp, Outer Banks of North Carolina. the light now comes on at night and goes off in the morning. Oak Island Civil War, Price’s Creek Lighthouse served as a Oak Island Lighthouse, completed in 1958, replaced Confederate signal station, aiding blockade-runners in Cape Fear Lighthouse, which was located across the navigating the river. Cape Fear River on Bald Head Island. The need for a Bald Head Lighthouse rock foundation solid enough to support the tower The Bald Head Lighthouse is North Carolina’s oldest caused the builder to go 125 feet underground. In winds standing lighthouse. The current Bald Head Lighthouse, up to 60 mph, this tower may sway as much as 3 feet. nicknamed “Old Baldy,” was built in 1817 about a mile Vivid black, white and gray bands make up the telltale from the ocean. paint job of the 169-foot Oak Island Lighthouse. From the beginning the lighthouse never completely Price’s Creek Lighthouse illuminated the 20-mile area of shoals that extended into Eight lighthouses once illuminated the 25-mile stretch the ocean under its watch. In the early 1900s, the Bald of the Cape Fear River between Oak Island and Head light was downgraded to a low-intensity, steady Wilmington. Confederates destroyed these lighthouses light and was finally discontinued in 1935. From 1941 to as they lost control of the river. By the late 1880s, the 1958, Old Baldy produced a radio beacon to direct ships lighthouses were replaced by unattended beacons. The into the Cape Fear River Channel in times of fog and bad brick shell known as Price’s Creek Lighthouse is the weather. Though no longer operational, the restored beaonly one of the eight lighthouses built along the Cape con is a lasting reminder of an adventurous maritime era. Fear River that still stands. For additional information on planning your North Price’s Creek Lighthouse, only 20 feet tall, was the Carolina lighthouse tour, visit http://www.visitnc.com. smaller of the two lights at Price’s Creek. During the 54 • Byways

Cape Hatteras Light is located on Hatteras Island in the Outer Banks of North Carolina near the community of Buxton. Byways â&#x20AC;˘ 55

Fort De Soto Park is located just outside the city of St. Petersburg on the Gulf of Mexico. Photo courtesy VISIT FLORIDA. 56 • Byways

Discover Florida’s Natural Attractions

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onder by wonder, Florida continues to leave vacationers awe-inspired by its natural beauty. From its sunny skies and crystal blue waters to its lush landscape, Florida cities such as Beaches of South Walton, High Springs, Titusville, Kissimmee and Hollywood are embracing the notion of green travel, ecotourism activities, and preserving Florida’s splendor of state parks and unspoiled beaches. The Beaches of South Walton are recognized for its 26 miles of unspoiled beauty. From basin swamps to pine forests and sand hills, more than a dozen natural communities provide visitors with a variety of ecological landscapes, which are ideal for individual discovery or guided tours. Topsail Hill State Preserve is a secluded beach area that spans over three miles of beaches, sand dunes, lakes, wetlands, plants and animal life. Here, visitors can enjoy swimming, bicycling, fishing, birdwatching and explore the famous Topsail Hill dune, which stands nearly 25 feet above sea level. Visitors may even catch a glimpse of the endangered Choctawhatchee Beach Mouse, who calls the Top Hill Preserve home. To learn more visit www.beachesofsouthwalton.com. Days can be devoted to floating along the banks of the Santa Fe River in High Springs. Parks along the Santa Fe River are world renowned for the dive destinations 58 • Byways

Sunrise at the Kennedy Space Center on Florida’s Space Coast on the Atlantic Ocean.

and campground areas. Kayaking, canoeing, tube rides, swimming and exploration of underwater caves are just a few of the many activities one can enjoy in these parks. Nestled in over 200 wooded acres, the crystal clear waters of these freshwater springs are 72 degrees year round and are perfect for relaxing the day away and soaking up the beautiful Florida sunshine. O’Leno and River Rise State Park is located along the banks of the Santa Fe River and has full facility campsites with a 20stall horse barn. Visitors can make use of the River Rise horse trails for a perfect day of exploring the wonders of The Jacksonville Pier and Atlantic Ocean. Photo courtesy VISIT FLORIDA.

this gorgeous state park. To learn more visit www.highsprings.com. Discover the beauty and diverse ecosystems in Titusville and Florida’s Space Coast. The Merritt Island National Wildlife Refuge features 140,000 acres with over 1,000 plants and 500 animal species, which include 16 threatened or endangered mammals. At this wildlife refuge, guests can observe the gorgeous plant life in estuaries, marshes, coastal dunes, pine forests as well as palm and oak hammocks. These ecosystems are ideal for birding and observing manatees. Canaveral National Seashore features 24 miles of unspoiled Atlantic beach, which is home to 14 endangered species including sea turtles that lay their eggs here. The Enchanted Forest Sanctuary offers guided walks through this ecosystem every Saturday at 10am. Trained tour guides will lead guests through the trails in the diverse ecosystems and interpret the geology, native plants and historic sites. To learn more visit http://visittitusville.com. By air or by water, Kissimmee allows vacationers to experience Florida’s environment like never before. Experience a bird’s eye view of Central Florida through a hot air balloon ride in Kissimmee. Visitors can take to the skies for an unforgettable air excursion that allows you to drift over Central Florida’s cities and attractions while enjoying panoramic views of lakes, wildlife, and skylines. Airboat rides in Kissimmee provide the thrill of a lifetime. Airboat tours give visitors access to some of the most scenic places in Florida. These rides open visitors’ eyes to a whole new world of alligators and exotic birds that live within the lush landscapes of the Central Florida’s wilderness. Kissimmee is home to a variety of boating excursions that include nature, scenic and wildlife eco-tours. Be sure to check out Shingle Creek Paddling Trail. This is the headwaters of the world

famous Everglades. Beginning in Shingle Creek Regional Park and ending along Lake Tohopekaliga, the paddling trail provides an opportunity for visitors to paddle up and down stream while observing the glorious nature of Central Florida. Remnants of pioneer building can be found along the creek and the Shingle Creek Paddling Trail flows through thick cypress swamp that was the site of a running battle during the Second Seminole War. To learn more visit http://www.visitkissimmee.com. Vacationers can experience Florida’s rich history in Hollywood, Florida. The Big Cypress Seminole Reservation serves as the gateway to the Everglades. Through alligator shows, live history demonstrations, arts and crafts, visitors have the opportunity to catch a glimpse into the lives of Seminole Indians. In Hollywood, visitors can experience the breathtaking beauty of the Anne Kolb Nature Center. Here, visitors can take a walking expedition over the mangroves on the spacious boardwalks. Kayak rentals are available for $15 and guests can paddle along the tidal channels in the mangroves as part of the Florida Circumnavigational Saltwater Paddling Trail. Visitors can hop aboard a U.S. Coast Guard inspected 25-passenger covered boat for a narrated tour of the tidal creek and open waters of West Lake. To learn more visit www.visithollywoodfl.org. With all its natural attractions, Florida’s beauty continues to thrive. State parks, natural springs, unique wildlife, authentic history, and thrilling eco-tours make Florida vacations unforgettable. To learn more about ecotourism, Florida’s natural attractions and trails, visit trails.VISITFLORIDA.com. For vacation tips and assistance in planning your perfect Florida vacation, visit www.VISITFLORIDA.com.

The famous Daytona Beach and Pier. Photo courtesy VISIT FLORIDA

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g n i n e p p a H s ’ t a h W

Space shuttle Atlantis lifts off from Launch Pad 39A at NASA’s Kennedy Space Center in Florida, beginning STS-135, the final mission of the Space Shuttle program. Photo courtesy NASA and Bill Ingalls. 60 • Byways

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Kennedy Space Centerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 50th Year Offers Visitors Rare Access

Kennedy Space Center Visitor Complex is offering a rare behind-the-scenes tour for its 50th anniversary year, allowing visitors inside the Launch Control Center, where NASA directors and engineers supervised all of the 152 launches for the space shuttle and Apollo programs.

ASA is offering visitors rare access to several key areas of Kennedy Space Center during its 50th anniversary year to enhance a popular destination that already features an array of authentic attractions showcasing the space program and opportunities for upclose viewing of ongoing rocket launches. A special Kennedy Space Center Up-Close Tour has been extended through the end of 2012 to provide visitors a look inside the 525-foot-tall Vehicle Assembly Building (VAB), where the Apollo rockets and space shuttles were assembled. One of the largest buildings in the world, the VAB had been off limits to visitors for more than 30 years until the tour was added in November. The space agency is also working with Delaware 62 â&#x20AC;˘ Byways

North Companies, which operates Kennedy Space Center Visitor Complex, on final details of new tours featuring operational areas that visitors have also rarely had the opportunity to see.

Ongoing Rocket Launches The visitor complex remains one of the best vantage points to see rocket launches taking place from Cape Canaveral Air Force Station. More than 10 launches have been scheduled for 2012 to carry NASA science missions and government satellites, as well as to test commercial space programs. An Atlas V rocket carrying a satellite was launched May 4, and next is a demonstration launch of a Falcon 9 rocket by SpaceX, the first mission by a commercial company to travel to and dock with

the International Space Station. “There’s an opportunity to see fascinating aspects of the space program that few people have seen, and a chance your visit can coincide with a rocket launch,” said Bill Moore, chief operating officer of Kennedy Space Center Visitor Complex. “We want people to know that a visit to Kennedy Space Center remains a visit to an operating facility where a lot of exciting things are happening. It’s a worldclass destination that offers a truly authentic and memorable visitor experience, and this year is an ideal time for Florida residents and vacationers to visit,” Moore said.

50th Anniversary of Kennedy Space Center The 50th anniversary year features several events, including a celebration in July to mark the anniversary of the space center being officially acknowledged as Vehical Assembly Building, pictured in 1975. an operating spaceflight center under the name Launch Operations Center. It was later historic spacecraft and the world’s largest collection of changed to John F. Kennedy Space Center in honor of personal astronaut memorabilia, open from noon until the president and his vision of Americans landing on the 6:00pm. daily. Parking, wheelchairs, strollers and pet moon. kennels are free of charge. For admission rates and more In celebration of the 50th anniversary, Kennedy Space information, call 877-313-2610 or visit Center Visitor Complex is offering guests two special www.KennedySpaceCenter.com. offers that can save up to 30 percent on admission, food and merchandise, as well as secure access to view rocket launches. Details of Kennedy Space Center’s 50th Gold Admission Package and a $50 Annual Pass are available at http://kennedysp a c e c e n t e r. c o m / a n n u a l - p a s s offer.aspx.

About Kennedy Space Center Visitor Complex Kennedy Space Center Visitor Complex opens daily at 9am. Closing times vary by season. Admission includes the Kennedy Space Center Tour, Shuttle Launch Experience, 3D IMAX® space films, Astronaut Encounter, Exploration Space: Explorers Wanted, and all exhibits. Admission also includes the U.S. Astronaut Hall of Fame®, featuring

Launch viewed from the Bubble Room. Byways • 63

o g a c i h C k c e d y k t S u t O a d e n g a The LesdVisitors to St Dare

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ravelers from across the country – and the world – have set their sights on Chicago. As people plan to take in all the unique experiences the Windy City has to offer, visitors past and present will tell you that no trip to Chicago is complete without a visit to Skydeck Chicago at Willis Tower. And, any visitor in the last three years will tell you it’s not complete without walking out on The Ledge. Introduced in 2009, The Ledge dares visitors to attempt an unforgettable Chicago experience: stand 103 floors over Wacker Drive and the Chicago River. The Ledge is a series of glass balconies that extend 4.3 feet from the west side of the building on the 103rd floor, providing breathtaking views of the city – off of Skydeck windows. From the memorable scene in straight down. “Ferris Bueller’s Day Off,” to curious children going The Ledge brings an exhilarating experience to the right up to the window, visitors yearned to catch a tower. But it’s Skydeck Chicago’s more than 1.4 million glimpse below. visitors annually who inspired the attraction. The designers and engineers on the project were able Over the years, Skydeck staff spent countless hours to create an unobstructed view in The Ledge. The bays cleaning hundreds of forehead prints visitors left behind

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feature a near-invisible support system as the 1,500 pound glass panels are supported by hidden structural steel. The low-iron, clear glass is fully tempered for durability. The fully enclosed glass boxes also have another trick up their sleeves: they retract into the building, allowing easy access for cleaning and maintenance. Skydeck visitors enjoy spectacular views of up to 50 miles and four states â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Illinois, Wisconsin, Indiana and Michigan. But an unmatched view is not all Skydeck offers. It also offers a â&#x20AC;&#x153;one stopâ&#x20AC;? Chicago experience. From the moment visitors arrive they enjoy interactive exhibits to learn more about the iconic building and celebrate Chicagoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s sports, architecture, pop culture, history, food, music and people through captivating visuals. Video screens give visitors a sense of what it is like to stand on The Ledge, 103 floors above Chicago staples like Wrigley Field, Cloud Gate at Millennium Park, or North Avenue Beach. Multimedia elevators give visitors one of the fastest rides in the world, while referencing points of interest that match the ascending height. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Reaching for the Sky,â&#x20AC;? a theater presentation, tells the story of how the building and Chicagoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s well-known landmarks set architectural standards after the Great Chicago Fire and beyond. The tower is a worldrenowned building, a Chicago icon. Opened in 1974, the Skydeck attracts more than 1.4 million visitors annually. If you are planning an upcoming trip to Chicago, visit www.theskydeck.com for information and tickets.

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Byways is published bi-monthly by Byways, Inc. and distributed electronically throughout North America. Byways is emailed to more than 4000 tour operators and 20,000 travel agencies through the internet. Subscriptions are complimentary. An iPad version is available for consumers in iTunes and Newsstand in the App Store. Byways’ distribution includes motorcoach companies, tour operators, travel agents, bank travel managers, school band and athletic planners, and meeting planners. For advertising rates, editorial deadlines, or to place advertising insertions, contact: Byways Magazine, 42 Cabin Hill Lane, Mount Jackson, VA 22842. Telephone 540-477-3202. Fax 540-477-3858. Toll-free 800-469-0062. ©Copyright 2012 by Byways, Inc. All rights reserved. No portion of this publication may be duplicated in any form without express written permission of the publisher. Editor and Publisher Stephen M. Kirchner

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Internet: bywaysmagazine.com byways@motorcoach.com

Advertisers Index

American Mountain Theater . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Bedford Tourism, Virginia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Byways Magazine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Colonial Williamsburg Foundation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Durbin & Greenbrier Railroad, West Virginia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Frontier Culture Museum. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Galax Visitors Center, Virginia. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Harrisonburg Convention & Visitors Bureau, Virginia. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . motorcoach.com - National Reservation Center . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Mystic Seaport, Connecticut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . New River Train, West Virginia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . PA Dutch Hotels, Clarion Inn, Strasburg, Pennsylvania. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . PA Dutch Hotels. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Redding Convention & Visitors Bureau, California. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Richmond Convention & Visitors Bureau . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Shipshewana Flea Market, Indiana. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Southern Kitchen Restaurant, New Market, Virginia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Staunton Convention & Visitors Bureau, Virginia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Sullivan County NY Catskills . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Sumner County Tourism, Tennessee . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Valley Forge, Pennsylvania . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Virginia Tourism Corporation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68 • Byways

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