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GREAT ROAD TRIPS are meant to be shared. And with so much history to experience—from tales of the Wild West to the railroad’s glory days—it’s easy to create magical memories together.
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PREVIEW By Steve Kirchner, Editor & Publisher
elcome to the latest issue of understanding of the living world” for nearly 60 years. In Florida, Miami’s early 20th century Vizcaya estate Byways, featuring some of includes: extensive Italian Renaissance gardens; native the most beautiful gardens in woodland landscape; and a historic village outbuildings North America. compound. The landscape and architecture were influAs Spring has blossomed and the enced by Veneto and Tuscan Italian Renaissance models buds turn to flowers and the weather and designed in the Mediterranean Revival architecture warms, we travel coast to coast in search style. Built during the Gilded Age in early 1900s, it is the of the beautiful gardens of North America. Some, like Longwood Gardens in Pennsylvania, former villa and estate of businessman James Deering, of Biltmore House and Gardens in North Carolina, and the Deering McCormick-International Harvester forBellingrath Gardens in Alabama, are some of the most tune. In 1917, Walter Bellingrath was advised by his physifamous gardens in the United States. cian to buy a fishing camp overlooking Fowl River he Others are less well known, and we are pleased to had been admiring to balance his hectic work schedule at bring them some well deserved attention. his Coca Cola bottling operation in Mobile with needed We begin our journey in New York State, where the rest and relaxation. Mrs. Bellingrath began bringing cutRockefeller legacy lives on in Kykuit in the Hudson Valley. Here you’ll find remarkable gardens, art, histo- tings down to her husband’s fishing camp, which had ry, and spectacular scenery as only the Rockefellers been named Belle Camp. The conditions were ideal and each spring the collection became more spectacular. In could envision it. 1932, the Bellingraths opened their property to a The International Peace Garden concept that originatDepression-weary public for a day of azalea gazing. The ed in Canada in 1990, a permanent trail of Peace Gardens response was phenomenal, and the astounded couple in New York, has been established along the historic decided to open Bellingrath Gardens permanently, route where events of the War of 1812 Houmas House took place. Plantation and Gardens In Pennsylvania, Longwood Gardens has reclaimed its position traces its roots to another family as the Crown Jewel of dynasty, the DuPonts of chemical fame. Louisiana’s River Road. Many generations helped create the While its history stretches Gardens, but one individual -- Pierre S. back well before the du Pont, industrialist, conservationist, Louisana Purchase in farmer, designer, impresario, and philan1803, the estate’s modern thropist, made the most enduring contrirejuvenation came bution. He combined the gardening arts Azaleas at Houmas House through the vision and with technology, and the results at Plantation in Louisiana determination of Kevin Longwood Gardens are unforgettable. Kelly, who fulfilled a lifeIn Virginia, Richmond’s Historic long dream by acquiring the property in 2003. District offers some of the nation’s most impressive and On the San Francisco Peninsula outside the town of colorful landscapes and gardens. Woodside in 1915, after years of collecting ideas, Mr. In the Shenandoah Valley in Harrisonburg, Edith J. and Mrs. William Bowers Bourn were ready to apply Carrier Arboretum and Botanical Gardens puts visitors in awe of lush greenery, rich budding florals, rustic their vision towards planning a project that, in Mr. Bourn's own words, “might be interesting a few hundred woodwork, effervescent waters, and buzzing wildlife. As Spring arrives in North Carolina, Biltmore House years from now.” Today, Filoli has the distinction of and Gardens celebrates the legacy of Frederick Law being one of the last country places built on the San Olmsted and his final project, George Vanderbilt’s mag- Francisco Peninsula and the one that survived the longest nificent Biltmore Gardens. Visitors marvel at the steady in its original design. In 1888, Robert Pim Butchart began manufacturing progression of floral color and succession of blooms. Portland cement. By the turn of the century he had In Pine Mountain, Georgia, Callaway Gardens has provided “a place of relaxation, inspiration and a better become a highly successful pioneer in this burgeoning 4 • Byways
North American industry. Attracted to the west coast of Canada by rich limestone deposits vital for cement production, he built a factory at Tod Inlet, on Vancouver Island. He built a home nearby. It was his wife who decided to enhance the bleak limestone pits by planting flowers, and the rest is history. Butchart Gardens offers 55 acres of wonderful floral
display located in Greater Victoria on Vancouver Island. What’s Happening looks at two stories. Space Shuttle Atlantis, the new $100-million, 90,000-square-foot home of the historic spacecraft, launches June 29 at Florida’s Kennedy Space Center Visitor Complex. And Dutch Wonderland in Lancaster, PA is celebrating five decades of bringing families together this year.
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Volume 30, Issue No. 2, 2013 On the cover. The Maymont Italian Garden in Richmond, Virginia is featured in Beautiful Gardens of Byways. To learn more about blooms and gardens throughout North America, turn to page 7.
Features
Beautiful Gardens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 The Rockefeller’s Kykuit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 New York’s International Peace Garden . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 Longwood Gardens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 Virginia’s Historic Richmond Region . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 Edith J Carrier Arboretum & Botanical Gardens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 Biltmore House & Gardens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 Georgia’s Callaway Gardens. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 Miami’s Vizcaya . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 The Bellingrath Home and Gardens Story . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36 Louisiana’s Houmas House Plantation & Gardens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 California’s Filoli . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42 Victoria’s Butchart Gardens. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46
Departments
Byways Instant Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 Byways Preview. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 Advertisers Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 Free Byways Subscription . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55
What’s Happening
3 2 1 Lift Off!. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52 Dutch Wonderland Celebrates 50 Years of Fun . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53
Coming in future issues of Byways… Ocean Views, the Atlantic, the Pacific and the Gulf. At right, the Hermosa Beach Pier in California.
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Beautiful Gardens
Overlooking Mirror Lake during azalea season at Bellingraph Gardens in Mobile, Alabama.
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Beautiful Gardens W
Come with us in this issue of Byways as we e begin our coverage of the Beautiful experience the Beautiful Gardens of North Gardens of North America in New York America. State at Kykuit, and then follow the Peace Garden Trail, before crossing into Pennsylvania to Longwood Gardens, Butchart Gardens, Victoria, British Columbia Then it’s off to Richmond and the Mid-Atlantic States, to Biltmore House & Gardens in North Carolina, Callaway in Georgia and Vizcaya in Florida. Further south, we visit Bellingrath Gardens in Alabama, and Louisiana’s Houmas House Plantation and Gardens. Next we travel out west to California to visit Filoli. We end our journey at Butchart Gardens in British Columbia. Our goal is to offer a broad overview of the many spectacular gardens we have available to us to explore and enjoy.
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GREAT ROAD TRIPS are meant to be shared. And with so much history to experience—from tales of the Wild West to the railroad’s glory days—it’s easy to create magical memories together.
ORDER YOUR FREE copy of the Nebraska Travel Guide today. Then go online to share your favorite Nebraska road trip moments.
VisitNebraska.com r %FQU #:#
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The Rockefeller’s Kykuit
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The Morning Garden at Kykuit. Photo © Bryan Haeffele ykuit is a preeminent Hudson Valley landmark in New York State. For architecture, remarkable gardens, art, history, and spectacular scenery, a trip to Kykuit is simply amazing. This hilltop paradise was home to four generations of the Rockefeller family, beginning with the philanthropist John D. Rockefeller, founder of Standard Oil. His business acumen made him, in his day, the richest man in 12 • Byways
America. Now a historic site of the National Trust for Historic Preservation, this extraordinary landmark has been continuously and meticulously maintained for more than 100 years. The tour will take you to the main rooms of the six-story stone house. Then you will move on through the expansive, terraced gardens containing Governor Nelson A. Rockefeller's exceptional collection of 20th-century
sculpture. Artists represented include Pablo Picasso, Henry Moore, Alexander Calder, Louise Nevelson, and David Smith, among many others. The underground art galleries with Governor Rockefeller's collection of Picasso tapestries, and the cavernous Coach Barn, with its collections of classic automobiles and horse-drawn carriages, are also part of the experience. A guide will share many stories that highlight the lives
of Rockefeller family members and their contributions to philanthropy, conservation, business, government, and the arts. A menu of tour options allows you to tailor a visit that appeals to your interests and available time. Each tour begins at the Visitor Center at Philipsburg Manor, where you will board a shuttle bus for a short ride to the estate. http://www.hudsonvalley.org/historic-sites/kykuit Byways • 13
The Inner Garden Photo © Bryan Haeffele
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The Kykuit’s Rose Garden. Photo © Mick Hales
Picasso tapestries in the underground art galleries. Photo © Mick Hales
The Grotto in the Brook Garden Photo © Bryan Haeffele
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New York State’s New War of 1812 Peace Garden Trail odeled on the International Peace Garden concept that originated in Canada in 1990, a permanent trail of Peace Gardens has been established along the historic route where events of the War of 1812 determined the future of Canada, the United States and the fate of many First Nations and Native American people. The garden route covers over 600 miles, including the United States and Canada, and blooms MayOctober. The War of 1812 represents an armed conflict between the United States and Great Britain from 1812 to 1814. Causes of the war include trade tensions, impressments, British support for Indian raids and U.S. Territory Expansion. The United States declared war on Great Britain on June 18, 1812. This was the first time in history that the United States declared war on another nation. The Treaty of Ghent ended the war in late 1814. This war 16 • Byways
ultimately led to independence for Canada. Much of the activity during the War was concentrated in New York State along the southern shores of Lake Ontario and the Niagara River. Visitors along the Bicentennial Peace Garden Trail will learn the history of the many events and battles that took place there during this historic period. The Bicentennial Peace Garden Trail is designed to attract international visitors as well as residents of this historic region to experience and enjoy the natural beauty that these gardens provide while commemorating the peace that has existed between Canada and the United States over the past 200 years. You can take an audio tour of each stop along the trail by calling 585-201-5079. You can also access the audio clips on the new www.peacegardentrail.com web site.
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The main Fountain Garden in front of the Conservatory.
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Longwood Gardens
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Longwood Gardens Hall
xquisite flowers, majestic trees, dazzling foun- du Pont created most of what is enjoyed today. In 1946, tains, extravagant conservatory, starlit theatre, the Gardens were turned over to a foundation set up by thunderous organ—all describe the magic of Mr. du Pont. At the age of 36, Mr. du Pont bought the Peirce farm Longwood Gardens, a horticultural showstopper where and began creating what would become Longwood the gardening arts are encased in classic forms and Gardens. He followed no grand plan; rather, he built the enhanced by modern technology. Many generations helped create Longwood Gardens, but one individual— Pierre S. du Pont (1870-1954), industrialist, conservationist, farmer, designer, impresario, and philanthropist—made the most enduring contribution. Pierre du Pont was the great-grandson of Eleuthère Irénée du Pont (1771-1834), who arrived from France in 1800 and founded the E. I. du Pont de Nemours and Company gunpowder works. Pierre turned the family business into a corporate empire in the early 20th century and used his resulting fortune to develop the Longwood property. The farm was purchased in 1906 by Pierre du Pont so he could preserve the trees, and from 1907 until the 1930s, Mr. Hydrangeas from the gardens 20 • Byways
gardens piecemeal, beginning with the 600-foot-long Flower Garden Walk in 1907. The massive Conservatory opened in 1921, a perpetual Eden sustained by twentieth-century fuel oil. It would be hard to imagine a more theatrical setting for the indoor display of plants, unless it would be to the music of a massive pipe organ, which he replaced with one triple in size years later. With the Conservatory a reality, Pierre turned his attention to another great love—fountains. Never mind that Longwood didn't have an abundant water supply; with electricity, anything was possible. He based his Italian Water Garden on the Villa Gamberaia near Florence, but he added 600 jets of recirculating water. At the Open Air Theatre, he replaced the old waterworks with 750 illuminated jets. His hydraulic masterpiece was the Main Fountain Garden in front of the Conservatory: 10,000 gallons a minute shot as high as 130 feet and illuminated in every imaginable color. Its complex engineering didn't faze him. “The fountains themselves are of simple design...,” he noted. "It is the landscape effect that adds to the total bill.” Longwood's extensive performing arts program is an outgrowth of Pierre du Pont’s interest in music and the-
atre and takes advantage of the many performance spaces he created. More than 400 events are scheduled each year, from organ and carillon concerts to Open Air Theatre productions. Seasonal festivals offer ample opportunities for all types of activities. Winter Fun Days and summer Ice Cream Concerts are designed for children. Spectacular fireworks and fountain displays attract 5,000 spectators on summer evenings, and more than 200,000 visitors come to see 500,000 lights outdoors at Christmas. The public has embraced Longwood Gardens with great enthusiasm. Its early heritage is rich, and its modern-day additions exemplify the finest in contemporary horticulture. Yet most of its public appeal is due to Pierre du Pont’s innate sense of the garden as theatre, and that ties Longwood directly to the great gardens of Italy and France, and to the spectacular world’s fairs that proclaimed the triumph of technology. Longwood combines the gardening arts with technology, and the results are unforgettable. http://longwoodgardens.org
Longwood Gardens One-Thousand Blooms
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Virginia’s Historic Richmond Region in Full Bloom
et amongst grand estates and historic homes, Virginia’s Historic Richmond Region offers some of the nation’s most impressive and colorful landscapes and gardens. As Virginia prepares to celebrate its 80th Historic Garden Week, the Region’s finest are pruning their roses, perfecting their landscapes and raising the bar when it comes to horticultural design. Agecroft Hall, a remarkable Tudor-style estate, was originally built in late 15th-century Lancashire, England. In 1925, Richmond native, Thomas C. Williams Jr., bought the house at auction and had it dismantled, crated and shipped to Virginia where it was reconstructed on the banks of the James River. The surrounding gardens were designed to reflect the order and opulence of England’s Tudor and early Stuart periods, boasting an 22 • Byways
array of blooms throughout four distinct areas: the fragrance garden, the sunken garden, the knot garden and a collection of exotic plants and herbs. In 1925, another Richmond native, Alexander Weddell, purchased Warwick Priory at an English demolition sale and used many of the materials to build the Tudor-inspired Virginia House. Mr. Weddell spent 20 years working with Charles Gillette, the same landscape architect who designed the gardens at nearby Agecroft Hall, to complete and perfect the eight acres of surrounding grounds. With nearly 1,000 types of ornamental plants arranged in deliberate, detailed structures, the gardens of Virginia House provide a rich tapestry of texture and color throughout the year. The influence of English architectural and landscape design can also be found at Maymont. This tranquil park,
Agecroft Hall
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tucked on the banks of the James River in downtown Richmond, is home to 100 acres of wildlife exhibits, exotic gardens and the historic Maymont Mansion. Left to the City of Richmond by its first and only owners, Mr. and Mrs. James H. Dooley, this 19th-century Victorian estate surprises visitors with exotic and unexpected landscapes, including Japanese and Italian Gardens. Maymont’s offerings are as unique as they are expansive, a testament to the Dooley’s understanding that luxurious landscaping is an essential part of any distinctive estate. Today the home and gardens are open to the public and offer visitors a rare glimpse into life during the American Gilded Age. Rounding out the local horticulture scene is the Region’s foremost garden, Lewis Ginter Botanical Garden. Recently named a “Top 10 North American Lewis Ginter Botanical Garden
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Garden Worth Travelling For” by a panel of international judges at the 2013 Garden Tourism Awards, Lewis Ginter is truly a gardener’s paradise. The sparkling centerpiece of this gardening institution is the 11,000 square-foot classical-domed conservatory, which houses exotic and unusual plant species from around the world. Lewis Ginter also features a Children’s Garden, Asian Garden, Perennial Garden, Rose Garden, Healing Garden and more. Special events for families and fourlegged friends, outdoor concerts and a stunning holiday lights display make Lewis Ginter a one-of-a-kind destination to be enjoyed throughout the year. With such a wide array of homes and gardens to visit, it may be a challenge to fit it all into one trip. But rest assured when it comes to the Richmond Region, you’ll find beauty in bloom no matter the season.
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Edith J. Carrier Arboretum and Botanical Gardens – Harrisonburg, VA
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Edith J. Carrier Aboretum and Botanical Gardens. Photo courtesy ©Frank Doherty and Harrisonburg Convention & Visitors Bureau.
glance into the picturesque Edith J. Carrier Arboretum and Botanical Gardens in Harrisonburg, VA, puts visitors in a trance of lush greenery, rich budding florals, rustic woodwork, effervescent waters, and buzzing wildlife. Founded in 1985, the arboretum has long been successful in its goal to provide a haven of preserved, natural public space for the benefit of the surrounding community. With 33 acres of naturalized botanical gardens and 92 acres of forest, this treasured natural habitat provides the perfect backdrop for a peaceful picnic, a casual stroll, a scenic run, or a romantic carriage ride. Though the beauty of the Arboretum and Botanical Gardens can be appreciated year-round, the bountiful blooms of more than 50 colorful varieties of daffodils in 26 • Byways
April make spring a special time for the garden oasis. To commemorate this important time of the year, the Edith J. Carrier Arboretum hosts an Annual Daffodil Walk throughout the first weeks of April. The arboretum also invites guests to share their bird sightings, contributing to a constantly-growing database of more than 113 species of birds. From Yellow-rumped Warblers and Yellow-breasted Chats to American Redstarts and Wood Ducks, the diverse and beautiful “Birds of the Arboretum” are always greeting visitors to the botanical gardens. The 125-acre urban botanical preserve is located on James Madison University’s campus, making it an accessible learning tool for disciplines ranging from the arts to physical education to the biological sciences. The
Additional perks of the Edith J. Carrier Arboretum include its three-sided open-air Pavilion and grassy tiered amphitheater, providing the perfect setting for group meetings, educational classes, celebrations like weddings and birthdays, and events of all types. These spaces also play host to public workshops, where participants can learn a variety of skills such as how to make miniature gardens and how to grow and train a bonsai tree. If groups are interested in personalized guided tours and visits, those are also available, allowing groups to learn about geography, navigation, edible plants, herbs, fall color, identifying forest species, and plant and animal growth and reproduction. Whether visitors stop through the arboretum for a quiet escape, an enriching learning experience, or a stunning outdoor event, they are sure to relish in a diverse ecosystem that is home to native mid-Appalachians plants, nonnative trees and shrubs, an Oak-Hickory Forest, a lowland swale, herb and rose gardens, a pond habitat, and many other natural gems. These qualities make the beautifully-preserved Edith J. Carrier Arboretum a mustsee for people of all walks of life and, of course, help make it the ideal habitat for the flourishing wildlife that call the arboretum “home.” Contact information for the Edith J. Carrier Arboretum: (t) 540-568-3194 (f) 540-568-5115 http://www.jmu.edu/arboretum/index.html 780 University Blvd, MSC 3705 Harrisonburg, VA 22807 Photo courtesy ©Frank Doherty and Harrisonburg Convention & Visitors Bureau. garden’s connection with JMU has also contributed to its preservation, as many faculty, staff, and students focus on the mission to protect the diverse ecosystem that lies within its boundaries. By studying the wildlife resources that are so abundant in the arboretum, university affiliates have already spearheaded several resourceful studies including environmental trends as a result of climate change, species extinction, bird migration, and more.
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rom March 21 through May, Biltmore Blooms promises varying degrees of gorgeous as Biltmore House & Gardens in Asheville, North Carolina awakes from winter with a steady progression of floral color and a succession of blooms. Starting on the first day of Spring, Biltmore celebrates the legacy of Frederick Law Olmsted and his final project—George Vanderbilt’s magnificent Biltmore Gardens. This festival of flowers begins with the bright golden yellow of daffodils and forsythia in the gardens, coinciding with an opulent display of potted tropical plants and lavish flowers inside Biltmore House. The season continues with a massive tulip bloom across the estate, multi-colored azaleas, rhododendron and roses in the Historic Rose Garden. As an added treat, a new guest experience is being introduced inside Biltmore House. Visitors are able to step into the Winter Garden, normally roped off, to enjoy a display of exotic orchids, just as George and Edith Vanderbilt’s guests might have. Some of the plants will 30 • Byways
be the same species plants that were planned for the Biltmore Conservatory in 1894. The Winter Garden’s existing tropical foliage will be enhanced, creating a lush green background. Unusual and beautiful orchid specimens will be displayed on tiered plant stands, in urns and on pedestals with fine leafed ferns and other foliage. Wanting the best, Vanderbilt also employed a landscape architect to design the grounds, with the immediate gardens in the Garden à la française style, beyond those in the English Landscape garden style. Beyond these were the natural woodlands and agricultural lands with the intentionally rustic three-mile approach road passing through. and later were hired to manage the forests, with Schenck establishing the first forestry education program in the U.S., the Biltmore Forest School, on the estate grounds in 1898. Intending that the estate should be self-supporting, Vanderbilt set up scientific forestry programs, and cattle, poultry, dairy and hog farms. His wife also enthusi-
astically supported and promoted the establishment of a state agricultural fair. In 1901, to help provide local employment, the Vanderbilts started Biltmore Industries, which made furniture modeled after the furnishings of the estate. The Vanderbilts invited family and friends from across the country to the opulent estate. Notable guests to the estate over the years have included author Edith Wharton, novelist Henry James, H.R.H, The Prince of Wales, and Presidents McKinley, T. Roosevelt, and Wilson. Vanderbilt paid little attention to the family business or his own investments, and it is believed that the construction and upkeep of Biltmore depleted much of his inheritance. After Vanderbilt died in 1914 of complications from an emergency, his widow, Edith Vanderbilt, completed the sale of 85,000 of the original 125,000 to the federal government. This was to carry out her husband’s wish that the land remain unaltered, and that the property became the nucleus of the Pisgah National Forest. The estate today covers over 8,000 acres and is split in half by the French Broad River. It is owned by the Biltmore Company, which is controlled by Vanderbilt’s grandson, William A.V. Cecil, Sr., and run by his son, William A.V. Cecil II, the great-grandson of George Washington Vanderbilt. Through Biltmore, Mr. Vanderbilt's vision and inspiration lives to this day. More than one million guests visit the estate every year, with more than 1,700 employees
ready to make each guest’s visit special. Other offerings include Biltmore Wine, Biltmore For Your Home, a line of Biltmore-inspired home furnishings, gourmet foods and garden and patio items; and the four-star Inn on Biltmore Estate. http://www.biltmore.com
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s n e d r a G y a w a l l a C s ’ Georgia
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or 60 years, Callaway Gardens has provided “a place of relaxation, inspiration and a better understanding of the living world” for millions of visitors. Owned and operated by the non-profit Ida Cason Callaway Foundation, Callaway Gardens includes a garden, resort, preserve and residential community on 13,000 acres in Pine Mountain, Georgia. Highlights include a butterfly conservatory, horticultural center, discovery center, chapel, inland beach, nature trails and special events throughout the year. In addition, Callaway Gardens offers nearly 80,000 square feet of meeting space, 685 guest rooms, restaurants, shops, golf, tennis, fishing and more. Open since 1952, Callaway Gardens is nestled in the southernmost foothills of the Appalachian Mountains. Founders Cason and Virginia Callaway longed for a place where man and nature could abide together for the good of both. More than six decades later, their retreat continues to offer solace, inspiration and discovery for all who come here. Five unique, close-knit residential communities — 32 • Byways
Springtime in the gardens. Photo courtesy Callaway Gardens.
with custom home sites, lakefront properties and cottages on the golf course — offer an ideal home away from home or full-time residence. Callaway Gardens is home to a 4,610-acre forest preserve which is under conservation easement. This conserved, sustainably-managed land is used for biological studies and environmental education programs. http://www.callawaygardens.com
Red Azaleas bloom at Callaway Gardens. Photo courtesy Callaway Gardens.
Ida Cason Callaway Memorial Chapel, lake view. Photo courtesy Callaway Gardens.
The Virginia Hand Callaway Discovery Center, bridge. Photo courtesy Callaway Gardens.
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Miami’s Vizcaya
izcaya was built in the 1910s, a decade in which Gilded Age cultural standards were enlivened by the irreverent spirit of the dawning Jazz Age. It also introduces visitors to Miami’s place in this history— a time when America’s wealthiest industrialists created lavish homes inspired by the palaces of Europe. Vizcaya Museum and Gardens is the former villa and estate of businessman James Deering, of the Deering McCormick-International Harvester fortune, on Biscayne Bay in the present day Coconut Grove neighborhood of Miami, Florida. The early 20th century Vizcaya estate also includes: extensive Italian Renaissance gardens; native woodland landscape; and a historic village outbuildings compound. The landscape and architecture were influenced by Veneto and Tuscan Italian Renaissance models and designed in the Mediterranean Revival architecture style, with Baroque elements. Deering used Vizcaya as his winter residence from 1916 until his death in 1925. Paul Chalfin, a former art curator, painter, and interior designer, was the project's director. The estate's name refers to the northern Spanish province Vizcaya, in the Basque region along the east Atlantic's Bay of Biscay, as “Vizcaya” is on the west Atlantic's Biscayne Bay. After his death, Vizcaya was inherited by his two nieces, Marion Chauncey Deering McCormick and Ely Deering McCormick Danielson. Over the decades, after hurricanes and increasing maintenance costs, they began selling the estate's surrounding land parcels and outer gardens. 34 • Byways
In 1952 Miami-Dade County acquired the villa and formal Italian gardens, needing significant restoration,
for $1 million. Deering's heirs donated the villa's furnishings and antiquities to the County-Museum.
The Estate is now known officially as the Vizcaya Museum and Gardens, which consists of 50 acres with the villa and the gardens, and the remaining native forest. The estate is a total of 50 acres, of which 10 acres contain the Italian Renaissance formal gardens, and 40 acres are circulation and the native 'hammock' (jungle forest). The villa's museum contains more than seventy rooms of distinctive architectural interiors decorated with numerous antiques, with an emphasis on 15th through early 19th century European decorative art and furnishings. Vizcaya has provided the setting for many films, both credited and uncredited. Deering himself enjoyed watching silent films in Vizcaya's courtyard, and he had a particular interest in the works of Charlie Chaplin. External pictures of Villa Vizcaya, for example, can be seen in the films Tony Rome, Ace Ventura: Pet Detective, Any Given Sunday, Bad Boys II, Airport '77, Haunts of the Very Rich, and The Money Pit. Vizcaya is located at 3251 South Miami Avenue in the Coconut Grove neighborhood of Miami, and is open to the public daily except Tuesdays, Thanksgiving, and Christmas Day. http://www.vizcayamuseum.org
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The Bellingrath Home & Gardens Story
The Rose Garden in summer. Photo courtesy Bellingrath Gardens. 36 • Byways
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n 1903, Walter Duncan Bellingrath began Mobile’s first Coca-Cola bottling operation. His franchise spanned a 100-mile radius, which he covered singlehandedly at first. It was not uncommon to see Mr. Bellingrath walking the train tracks between small towns because he lacked the train fare. His perseverance and warm personality won him many customers and his hard work made him a tremendous success. By the time the United States became involved in World War I, Mr. Bellingrath’s Coca-Cola Bottling Company was a major business operation in Mobile. This success, compounded by sugar shortages during the war, took its toll on Mr. Bellingrath’s health. In 1917, he was advised by his physician to buy a fishing camp overlooking Fowl River he had been admiring to balance his hectic work schedule with needed rest and relaxation. By this time, the Bellingrath’s home in Mobile on Ann Street was known for its beautiful garden, which the couple graciously allowed drivers to enjoy during the Spring. The collection of azaleas was the city’s largest and Mrs. Bellingrath began bringing cuttings down to her husband’s fishing camp, which had been named Belle Camp. The conditions were ideal and each spring the collection became more spectacular. After an extensive European tour of gardens, the couple decided to get professional assistance in the design of 38 • Byways
Bellingrath Museum Home and South Terrace during Mum Season. Photo courtesy Bellingrath Home & Gardens.
their property in 1927. They hired George B. Rogers, Mobile’s most prominent architect. Rogers worked continuously on developing the property, as well as the couple’s home, until his death in 1945. His plan for the Gardens is still being enjoyed today. In the spring of 1932, the Bellingraths opened their property along the Fowl River up to a Depression-weary public for a day of azalea gazing. The response was phenomenal, as the roads between Mobile and the Gardens became one long traffic jam. The astounded couple decided to open the Gardens permanently, while charging a fee to assist in their care and upkeep. The Gardens began to expand as azaleas and camellias were shipped in from across the South. In Mobile,
Walter and Bessie Bellingrath
Mrs. Bellingrath was known for her generosity in paying tremendous sums for plants from individual’s gardens. The higher demand for the plant normally meant a higher price Mrs. Bellingrath was willing to pay. The Bellingraths had no children, but they enjoyed the company of their young nieces and nephews. As both were from large families, the need for extra guest rooms moved the couple to have George Rogers design a guest house in 1939. The building also contained a large garage, an intimate Chapel and a laundry. Since 1967, the garage space has served visitors as the Delchamps Gallery of Edward Marshall Boehm Porcelain. The collection is the largest of its type open to the public and contains a wide variety of wildlife art created by the veterinarian turned sculptor.
After Mrs. Bellingrath died in 1943, Mr. Bellingrath continued the couple’s plans for their beloved Gardens until his own death in 1955. Mr. Bellingrath had not only created a tribute to the region’s natural beauty, but had also contributed much to his community. In the business community, he was well respected as the president of the Lerio Corporation, Mobile Warehousing, Inc. and was one of the four founders of the Waterman Steamship Corporation. He served as an officer for several Coca-Cola bottling companies in Mobile, in addition to other cities. He was a director of the First National Bank of Mobile and the Mobile Press Register, Inc. http://www.bellingrath.org
The Fountain plaza in spring. Photo courtesy Bellingrath Home & Gardens. Byways • 39
Louisiana’s Houmas House Plantation and Gardens
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oumas House Plantation and Gardens has reclaimed its position as the Crown Jewel of Louisiana’s River Road. Through the vision and determination of Kevin Kelly, who fulfilled a lifelong dream by acquiring the property in the Spring of 2003, the mansion today reflects the best parts of each period in its rich history alongside the big bend in the Mississippi River. The first owners of the plantation were the indigenous Houmas Indians, who were given a land grant to occupy the fertile plain between the Mississippi and Lake Maurepas to the north. The Houmas sold the land to Maurice Conway and Alexander Latil in the mid 1700s. The original French Provincial house that Latil erected on the property is situated directly behind the Mansion, adjoined by a carriageway to the grand home described during its antebellum heyday as “The Sugar Palace.” The original home was later used as living quarters for staff that served the great house. 40 • Byways
By the time of the Louisiana Purchase in 1803, the plantation was established and producing sugar. In 1810, Revolutionary War hero Gen. Wade Hampton of Virginia purchased the property and shortly thereafter began construction on the Mansion. However, it was not until 1825 when Hampton’s daughter, Caroline, and her husband, Col. John Preston, took over the property that
the grand house truly began to take shape. home (it’s the owner’s active residence), while proudly Construction on the Mansion was completed in 1828. portraying its role as a landmark in American history. http://www.houmashouse.com At the same time, Houmas House began to build its sugar production and continued to increase its land holdings, which ultimately grew to 300,000 acres. Irishman John Burnside bought the plantation in 1857 for $1 million. During the Civil War, Burnside saved the Mansion from destruction at the hands of advancing Union forces by declaring immunity as a subject of the British Crown. He built a railway to carry his products to market —”The Sugar Cane Train (1862).” Houmas House flourished under Burnside’s ownership, but it was under a successor, Col. William Porcher Miles, that the plantation grew to its apex in the late 1800s when it was producing a monumental 20 million pounds of sugar each year. However, during the Great Depression of the early 20th century, Houmas House Plantation withered away. The Mansion closed and fell into disrepair, a condition in which it remained until 1940 when Dr. George B. Crozat purchased it. Eventually, the Crozat heirs opened the property to tourists. In 1963, the defining Bette Davis film “Hush, Hush Sweet Charlotte” was shot in the property. The room in which Ms. Davis stayed while filming is preserved as part of today’s Houmas House tour. In addition to the Mansion and Gardens, history is also reflected in the many antique furnishings and works of art that grace the Houmas House tour. Distinguished by its two Garconierre, the Mansion exudes the warmth of a Byways • 41
California’s Filoli
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ocated 30 miles south of San Francisco, Filoli is an historic site of the National Trust for Historic Preservation and one of the finest remaining country estates of the early 20th century. Mr. and Mrs. William Bowers Bourn had, for many years, anticipated building an estate in the country where they could finally enjoy their retirement; but the War, travels, business, and family obligations had kept them from realizing their dream. Then, in 1915, after years of collecting ideas, they were ready to apply their vision 42 • Byways
towards planning a project that, in Mr. Bourn's own words, “might be interesting a few hundred years from now.” Compared to many other country places being built on the San Francisco Peninsula, Filoli was more of a gentleman's farm. Located outside the town of Woodside, it was considered quite remote compared to the more popular suburban locations of Hillsborough and Burlingame, both linked to San Francisco by a commuter rail line. The scale of the House and Garden was also
The Filoli Sunken Garden. Filoli protects the land to the top of the mountain, a total of 654 acres. Photo courtesy Rachel Perry.
smaller in comparison, but the acreage was larger. The site was attractive to the Bourns because the views of Crystal Springs Lake reminded them of Muckross, while Spring Valley, the rift valley of the San Andreas fault line, reminded them of the pastoral landscape surrounding the Lakes of the Killarney in Ireland. The backdrop to the west was the steep foothills of the Santa Cruz Mountains.
The Camperdown Elm. Photo courtesy Rachel Perry
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They wanted to capitalize on all of these existing features and frame them so they could be enjoyed from the house and garden. In making design decisions, the Bourns were conservative and preferred English traditional styles for the house and the garden. The Bourns were from English ancestry, families that had originally immigrated to America in the late 17th century. They followed classical planning aesthetics and absorbed ideas from many different Country Life publications and also from their travels and past experiences. Filoli was designed to include many of the elements you would expect on an English country estate. In addition to a 44 • Byways
Knot Garden. Photo courtesy Saxon Holt.
Chartres Garden Path. Photo courtesy Rachel Perry
The Filoli Home. Photo courtesy Rachel Perry.
formal garden, plenty of space was allocated for a large working kitchen garden with espaliered fruits, berry cages, vegetable garden, cutting garden and greenhouses. There was a farm group constructed with a superintendent's house, stable for draft horses, cook house and dormitory for the men. The 10-acre gentlemen’s orchard, with its rare collection of fruit and cellar, was a significant feature placed in a prominent location right along the entry drive. A stone corporation yard was built to house farm vehicles and there were fowl houses for raising Mr. Bourn’s favorite breed of Chanticleer chickens. There were two cow barns on the site and pasture for Mr. Bourn’s flocks of sheep which not only added landscape value, but kept the vegetation down, reduced fire hazard and helped keep the landscape views open. While the Bourns had the vision to create the gardens, the second family, Mr. and Mrs. William P. Roth and their children, carried the tradition forward and preserved the gardens by providing stewardship of the entire place. The Roths ultimately ensured Filoli's preservation by giving it, along with a generous endowment, to the National Trust for Historic Preservation in 1975. Filoli had the distinction of being one of the last country places built on the San Francisco Peninsula and the one that survived the longest in its original design. http://filoli.org
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t r a h c t u B s ’ a i r o Vict s n e d r Ga
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The Children’s Pavillion. Photo courtesy Butchart Gardens.
n 1888, near his birthplace, Owen Sound, Ontario, the former dry goods merchant, Robert Pim Butchart, began manufacturing Portland cement. By the turn of the century he had become a highly successful pioneer in this burgeoning North American industry. Today Butchart Gardens offers 55 acres of wonderful floral display located in Greater Victoria on Vancouver Island. The family’s commitment to horticulture and hospitality continues to this day. Attracted to the west coast of Canada by rich limestone deposits vital for cement production, he built a factory at Tod Inlet, on Vancouver Island. There, in 1904, he and his family established their home. As Mr. Butchart exhausted the limestone in the quarry near their house, his enterprising wife, Jennie, 48 • Byways
conceived an unprecedented plan for refurbishing the bleak pit. From farmland nearby she requisitioned tons of top soil, had it brought to Tod Inlet by horse and cart, and used it to line the floor of the abandoned quarry.
Little by little, under Jennie Butchart’s supervision, the abandoned quarry blossomed into the spectacular Sunken Garden. By 1908, reflecting their world travels, the Butcharts had created a Japanese Garden on the sea-side of their home. Later an Italian Garden was created on the site of their former tennis court, and a fine Rose Garden replaced a large kitchen vegetable patch in 1929. Mr. Butchart took much pride in his wife’s remarkable work. A great hobbyist, he collected ornamental birds from all over the world. He kept ducks in the Star Pond, noisy peacocks on the front lawn, and a curmudgeon of a parrot in the main house. He enjoyed training pigeons at the site of the present Begonia Bower, and had many elaborate bird houses stationed throughout Jennie’s beautiful gardens. The renown of Mrs. Butchart’s gardening quickly spread. By the 1920s more than fifty thousand people
Dahlias catch the attention of visitors. Photo courtesy Butchart Gardens.
came each year to see her creation. In a gesture toward all their visitors, the hospitable Butcharts christened their estate “Benvenuto,” the Italian word for “Welcome.” To extend the welcome, flowering cherry trees along Benvenuto Avenue leading to The Gardens were purchased from Yokohama Nursery in Japan and installed from West Saanich Road to the Butchart Gardens’ entrance. Their house grew into a comfortable, luxurious showplace, with a bowling alley, indoor salt-water swimming pool, panelled billiard room and a wonder of its age, a self-playing Aeolian pipe organ (still played on). Today the residence contains the Dining Room Restaurant, offices, and rooms still used for family entertaining. From January 15 to March 15, a special re-creation of the family house is showcased. The only surviving portion of Mr. Butchart’s Tod Inlet cement factory is the tall chimney of a long vanished
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Visitors admire the dahlias at Butchart Gardens.
kiln. The chimney can be seen from The Sunken Garden Lookout. The plant stopped manufacturing cement in 1916, but continued to make tiles and flower pots as late as 1950. The single chimney now overlooks the quarry Mrs. Butchart so miraculously reclaimed. The Butchart Gardens remains a family business and has grown to become a premier West Coast display garden, while maintaining the gracious traditions of the past. Today the Gardens has established an international reputation for its year round display of flowering plants. http://www.butchartgardens.com 50 • Byways
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Trieloff Tours
The National Reservation Center Charter a motorcoach anywhere in North America 888-733-5287 • nmn@motorcoach.com
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3, 2, 1 Lift Off!
S
pace Shuttle Atlantis, the new $100-million, 90,000-square-foot home of the historic spacecraft, launches June 29 at Florida’s Kennedy Space Center Visitor Complex. This one-of-a-kind experience delivers extraordinary access to Space Shuttle Atlantis – from only a few feet away, guests will be awed and inspired with an up-close, 360-degree view of the orbiter, the wear of its 33 missions apparent on its protective external tiles. Space Shuttle Atlantis is a remarkable must-see experience. One of the most complicated and sophisticated pieces of equipment ever built, the orbiter will be dramatically showcased as if it were in space – as only astronauts have had a chance to see it from the International Space Station. Atlantis has been elevated 30 feet and rotated at a 43.21-degree angle, and its payload bay doors will be 52 • Byways
open and its Canadarm (robotic arm) extended. Space Shuttle Atlantis tells the incredible story of NASA’s 30-year Space Shuttle Program and features state-of-the-art multimedia presentations and more than 60 interactive exhibits and high-tech simulators that will bring to life the complex components and systems behind this incredible feat of engineering. The immersive experience also will shine the spotlight on the astounding achievements made over the course of the Space Shuttle Program and how it transformed the way humans explore space and look at the universe, most notably, the building of the International Space Station and the launch and maintenance of the Hubble Space Telescope. The home of manned spaceflight, Kennedy Space Center is the only place in the world to launch and process all 135 space shuttle missions.
Dutch Wonderland Celebrates 50 Years of Family Fun
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utch Wonderland in Lancaster, PA is celebrating five decades of bringing families together in 2013. While the Park will be celebrating this milestone all year long, June 1 will designate as the special day where guests will enjoy a fireworks display at Park close, as well as some additional surprises. Dutch Wonderland officially opened on May 20, 1963 on just 14 acres and four rides: The Wonderland Express Train, Lady Gay Riverboat, The Turnpike featuring Antique Cars, and the Whale Boats. All of these rides are still operational in some form at Dutch Wonderland today. Founder Earl Clark had virtually no experience in the amusement park industry, just a dream of creating a place where families with small children could play together. That dream has since grown into the Dutch Wonderland that exists today; a recognized and celebrated children’s amusement park with over 30 rides on 43 acres including Duke’s Lagoon Water Play Area. “We are very proud to be celebrating our 50th Anniversary this year and look forward to welcoming generations of guests back to Dutch Wonderland,” said Rick Stammel, General Manager. “Dutch Wonderland is such
Kids!” Dutch Wonderland is part of the Palace Entertainment family of parks. Palace Entertainment owns and operates theme parks including Kennywood in Pittsburgh, water parks
g n i n e p p a H s ’ t a Wh
such as Splish Splash in Long Island and family entertainment centers nationa special wide. The company entertains millions of guests annualplace and it’s meant so much to ly and is one of the largest park operators in the United so many people over these five decades. We are so States. proud to have remained true to Mr. Clark’s vision and aim to continue to live up to our moniker, A Kingdom for http://www.dutchwonderland.com
Photos Courtesy of Dutch Wonderland Byways • 53
Byways is published bi-monthly by Byways, Inc. and distributed electronically throughout North America. Byways is emailed to more than 4000 tour operators and 13,000 travel agencies through the internet. Subscriptions are complimentary. An iPad version is available for consumers in iTunes and Newsstand in the App Store. Byways’ distribution includes motorcoach companies, tour operators, travel agents, bank travel managers, school band and athletic planners, and meeting planners. For advertising rates, editorial deadlines, or to place advertising insertions, contact: Byways Magazine, 42 Cabin Hill Lane, Mount Jackson, VA 22842. Telephone 540-477-3202. Fax 540-477-3858. Toll-free 800-469-0062. ©Copyright 2013 by Byways, Inc. All rights reserved. No portion of this publication may be duplicated in any form without express written permission of the publisher. Editor and Publisher Stephen M. Kirchner
Advertising Director 1.800.469.0062 • 540.477.3202 • Fax 540.477.3858
Internet: bywaysmagazine.com byways@motorcoach.com
Advertisers Index
Byways Magazine. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 Bedford Tourism & Welcome Center, Virginia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 Best Western Colorado River Inn, California. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Frontier Culture Museum, Virginia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
Greater Niagara Country Byways, New York/Peace Garden Trail . . . . . . . . . . 17
motorcoach.com - National Reservation Center . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51 Nebraska Tourism. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Richmond Convention & Visitors Bureau, Virginia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 Ross-Chillicothe Convention & Visitors Bureau, Ohio. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Shenandoah Caverns, Virginia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Shipshewana Flea Market, Indiana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Silverado Casino/Franklin Hotel, South Dakota . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Virginia Tourism Corporation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
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