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Nuzzle up with a llama. Celebrate Appalachian heritage through a variety of historic museums. Tour a hand-blown glass factory. factor y. Hang onto Romp and play in one of our award-winning parks. Tour concert your hat at a 26-acre amusement park. Catch a show at our outdoor amphitheater or indoor concert Take a jog or bike ride on our pedestrian trail system. No matter your interests, Huntington venues. Take ever y family – laid back or active. Stop by the Visitors Visitors Center to pick up your free has something for every visitor’s guide! visitor’s 210 Eleventh Street Huntington, WV 304.525.7333 www.wvvisit.org www.wvvisit.org
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PREVIEW By Steve Kirchner, Editor & Publisher
n this issue of Byways you’ll find our Huntington Railroad Historical Society operates the annual Rivers and Lakes theme, fea- world-renowned New River Train excursions through turing some of the most well-known the beautiful New River Gorge. The Shenandoah River in Virginia and West Virginia is and some of the least-known bodies of the principal tributary of the Potomac River. The river water in North America. winds through the Shenandoah Valley, which is both a We start our travels on Lake Ontario geographic valley and cultural region of western Virginia in Orleans County in Upstate New York. and the Eastern Panhandle of West Virginia. Thanks to This area is blessed with three bodies of water - a Great Lake, a river teeming with giant trout and salmon, and its unique geography and agricultural abundance, the the grand Erie Canal. It’s the perfect place to begin the Shenandoah Valley was critical to both sides during the Civil War. journey. As American history goes, you can’t get much closer Next we’re moving west to another of the Great Lakes, to the birth of a nation than on the York River in Lake Erie. Take a high speed ferry boat or slow rolling Yorktown, Virginia. And car ferry to Put-in-Bay on what a beautiful day for South Bass Island, Kelley’s Tanking on the Middle Loup sailing with Yorktown Island and Pelee Island to River in Nebraska. Sailing Charters on the experience a freshwater paraSchooners Serenity and dise. The majority of these and Alliance. other islands are under the sovIt was here on October ereignty of the state of Ohio. 19, 1781, the articles of In a major feature on surrender were signed by Branson’s Lakes, we learn how the British, formally endthe Army Corp of Engineers ing the American played a major role in creating Revolutionary War. The this famous playground of the colonies had gained their Midwest, and in Branson’s independence, and the evolution to become one of the United States of America most important entertainment was born. venues in North America. Today Yorktown is part It’s been 200 years since one of the Historic Triangle of Yorktown, Jamestown and of the most famous sea battles in U.S. naval history surWilliamsburg. prisingly did not take place on the sea, but on the turbuThe Oregon Trail was the principal route west follent waters of Lake Erie between what is now Ontario, lowed by Americans looking for new opportunities in the Canada and the village of Put-in-Bay, Ohio. Oliver mid-19th century: the 1840s, 1850s, and 1860s. The trail Hazard Perry is famous for his words across the tepid followed the North Platte River through Nebraska, and waters of Lake Erie, declaring an American victory over we visit some of the most famous landmarks along the the British. “We have met the enemy and they are ours.” Oregon Trail. From the Great Lakes we move inland to North We also visit the Sandhills of Nebraska, a region of Carolina, Virginia, and West Virginia, where we learn mixed-grass prairie overlying and anchoring sand dunes that the New River is actually the oldest river in America! It was named the New River because it was that cover some 20,000 square miles in just over a quarnot known to early Atlantic Coast explorers. Despite its ter of the state. And along the Middle Loup River we go name, the New River is also the third-oldest river in the tanking, one of the most unusual forms of river rafting ever conceived! world. Finally, in What’s Happening, we travel to Louisville In Virginia, New River Trail State Park at Galax has to learn how the Kentucky Bourbon Trail Tour(R) is growbeen designated an official National Recreation Trail. As one of the newest national parklands, the “Grand Canyon ing. We hope you enjoy this issue of Byways. of the East” along the New River is majestic and breathtaking in fall colors in mid to late October. The Collis P. 4 • Byways
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Volume 30, Issue No. 4, 2013 On the cover. A beautiful Lake Erie sunset near South Bass Island in Ohio. For more on Rivers and Lakes, visit page 8. Cover photo courtesy Green Door Mediaworks.
Features
Rivers & Lakes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 Chinooks, Cobblestones and a Canal. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 Lake Erie Islands . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 New River - America’s Oldest River . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 Oh, Shenandoah . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 Sailing Amid History in Yorktown . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 The North Platte River and the Oregon Trail . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 Tanking the Sandhills of Nebraska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 Branson’s Lakes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42
Departments
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What’s Happening
Heaven Hill’s Evan Williams Bourbon Experience(TM) Joins The Kentucky Bourbon Trail(R) . . . . 48
Coming in future issues of Byways…Great American Roads, Leading North America Tour Destinations . . .Great American Railroads, Mountains and Valleys, and much more!
At right: Marquée and rear of projection screen of Route 66 Drive-in in Carthage, Missouri. Photo courtesy Abe Ezekowitz Byways • 7
Chinooks, Cobblestones and a Canal
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hat do they have in common? The waters of New York’s Orleans County of course! Orleans County is thrice blessed with a Great Lake, a river teeming with giant trout and salmon, and the grand Erie Canal. And many of the attractions and events have their origins in these magnetic waters. An 1891 real estate brochure advertising cottage lots at Oak Orchard-On-The-Lake beckoned, “Where weary souls may rest from care, And sport with boat and rod.” That sentiment is echoed today at the harbor at Point 8 • Byways
Oak Orchard Harbor. Photos By Bruce. Breeze, named the 2013 Ultimate Fishing Town by the World Fishing Network. The full-service port offers lodges and B&Bs, restaurants, marinas, and a fishing charter fleet bristling with rod and reel, poised to lure colossal Chinook salmon from the depths. Whether a guided trip on the mighty Lake Ontario or a quiet outing on one of our tributaries or smaller lakes for some great warm water fishing, the memories of battles won and lost are waiting for you in Orleans County.
Between 1871 and 1916 the Oak Orchard Harbor Light House stood on a pier on the west side of the Oak Orchard River, along with the keeper’s house. A December storm then swept the light away, and the pier with it. A replica light house was constructed in June 2010 at Orleans County Marine Park on the east side of the river, an authentic reminder of our once-flourishing shipping and resort industries. The 25-mile shoreline is located on the 518-mile Seaway Trail, designated one of America’s Byways®, featuring maritime heritage along New York’s freshwater coastline. In August 2010 Seaway Trail debuted their GeoTrail for hi-tech treasure hunters using a handheld GPS. Three Seaway Trail geocaches are hidden in Orleans County (and our Tourism Office has hidden others). Geocaching is a healthy way to explore the outdoors with kids and the whole family. Visit www.seawaytrail.com/geotrail to
The mouth of the Oak Orchard River in the town of Carlton, Orleans County, New York. The promontory from which this pier extends is known as Point Breeze. Lake Ontario is to the left.
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Photos courtesy Orleans County Tourism.
learn how to pick up a log book. And check out Taste the bounty of the farm at a roadside market, or www.geocaching.com for our other caches. hop aboard a train excursion along the Erie Canal. Just off the Seaway Trail, in Kendall, you’ll find the There’s so much more, all within an hour of that other Country Barn Quilt Trail, looping past 50 quilt blocks on liquid destination, Niagara Falls. Visit the website at farm buildings and homes. Each block tells a story of www.OrleansCountyTourism.com and follow us on agrarian life via your cell phone, or a step-on guide will Facebook for upcoming events. weave these tales aboard your motorcoach. Cobblestone masonry was popular from 1825 to 1860, using the wave-washed stones gathered from the Lake Ontario shoreline or from deposits left by the glaciers. Our Cobblestone Museum, designated a National Historic Landmark, showcases this era of construction which began, matured and ended between the completion of the Erie Canal and the start of the Civil War. The Erie Canal, constructed in 1825, was the catalyst for growth and development of Orleans County and an industrialized United States. It was, literally, the information superhighway of its time. The modern-day Canal is a linear park for boating, kayaking, bicycling, or a quiet stroll, threading across lush farmland and quaint Victorian villages. 10 • Byways
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Lake Erie Islands
Aerial view of the village of Put-in-Bay on South Bass Island with Perry’s Monument in foreground. 14 • Byways
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A Lake Erie sunset on South Bass Island. Photo courtesy Green Door Mediaworks.
ust a short trip away on a high speed ferry boat or slow rolling car ferry, Put-in-Bay and Kelley’s Island offer up a freshwater paradise. This closer-to-homeCaribbean gives visitors the chance to experience the feel of an exotic location without breaking the bank. Whether it’s kayaking around South Bass Island, parasailing through the harbor or checking out the best example of glacial grooves in the world, this tropical summer will have visitors second guessing their real geographic location. The Lake Erie Islands are a chain of archipelagic islands in Lake Erie. They include Kelleys Island, Pelee Island, the Bass Islands, and several others. The majority of these islands are under the sovereignty of Ohio in the United States. Pelee Island is the only major island administered by Ontario, while the smaller Middle Island is the southernmost point in Canada. Most islands that are large enough are popular tourist attractions with car ferries running from the mainland and between some islands and some small airports and numerous private marinas offering other ways to reach the islands. One of the most famous sea battles in U.S. naval history surprisingly did not take place on the sea, but on the turbulent waters of Lake Erie between what is now Ontario, Canada and the village of Put-in-Bay, Ohio. It’s been 200 years since a southwest wind carried 16 • Byways
The Brig Niagara firing its cannons, off Put-in-Bay, Ohio on Lake Erie. Photo courtesy Lance Woodworth.
Famous Round House Bar with Budweiser Clydesdales during a Historic Parade. Photo courtesy Green Door Mediaworks.
Oliver Hazard Perry’s famous words across the tepid waters of Lake Erie, declaring an American victory over the British. “We have met the enemy and they are ours.” A triumphant slogan that can be viewed at Perry’s Monument, the third tallest memorial structure in the world commemorating the Commodore and his crew. The Battle of Lake Erie Bicentennial Celebration through early September is bringing together hundreds of thousands of people from the U.S., Canada and abroad. The Celebration includes a large fleet of Tall Ships in a historic reenactment of the Battle of Lake Erie and a grand Parade of Sail and Port Festivals. Visitors will be able to tour the Ships, enlist as Crew Members in the reenactment, or be part of the Bicentennial Fleet or Militia. Along with Tall Ships activities, surrounding days include marching bands, fireworks, concerts, food, entertainment, arts & crafts, historical activities and an International Freedom Celebration. And for those who want to focus a little less on history, there’s even more reasons to celebrate the Lake Erie Islands.
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The New River -America’s Oldest! The New River Gorge Bridge in Fayetteville, West Virginia is a steel arch bridge that carries US 19 over the New River. It opened in 1977 and is one of the longest and highest steel arch bridges in the Western Hemisphere.
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Hawks Nest State Park and various overlooks on lands of the New River Gorge in West Virginia. he New River flows through the states of North Carolina, Virginia, and West Virginia. Much of the river's course through West Virginia is designated as the New River Gorge National River, and the New River is one of the nation's American Heritage Rivers. It was named the New River because it was not known to early Atlantic Coast explorers. Despite its name, the New River is the third-oldest river in the world geologically, and the only nontidal that crosses the Appalachian Mountains. This ancient river begins in the mountains of North Carolina near the Tennessee state line, flows northwestward across the Blue Ridge Mountains, Great Appalachian Valley, Ridge and Valley Province, and the 20 • Byways
Allegheny Front in western Virginia and West Virginia, then cuts through the Appalachian Plateau (in the New River Gorge) to meet the Gauley River and become the Kanawha River in south-central West Virginia. The New River Gorge offers incredible views, but also offers numerous opportunities for white-water recreation such as rafting and kayaking. Many open ledges along the rim of the gorge offer popular views, with favorites including Hawks Nest State Park and various overlooks on lands of the New River Gorge National River. Few highways cross the gorge, with the most dramatic bridge by far being the New River Gorge Bridge on U.S. 19, a steel arch bridge spanning 1,700 feet, with the roadway 876 feet above the river. This structure is the
third-longest arch bridge in the world, and is also the world's twelfth-highest vehicular bridge, and the fourth highest in the Americas. In North Carolina, a segment of the river 26.5 miles long was designated as the “New River State Scenic River” is included in the state’s Natural and Scenic Rivers System and the National Wild and Scenic Rivers System. In Virginia, New River Trail State Park at Galax has been designated an official National Recreation Trail by the U. S. Department of the Interior. The park parallels 39 miles of the New River, which is among a handful of rivers flowing north. The Collis P. Huntington Railroad Historical Society operates the worldrenowned New River Train excursions through the beautiful New River Gorge in southern West Virginia. As one of the newest national parklands, the “Grand Canyon of the East” along the New River is majestic and breathtaking in fall colors in mid to late October. It is during this peak autumn foliage time that the train traverses the former Chesapeake & Ohio mainline from Huntington, WV to most spectacular scenery in the country. Hinton, WV, allowing for a front-row seat to some of the
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Oh, Shenandoah
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he Shenandoah River is 55.6 miles long with two forks approximately 100 miles long each in Virginia and West Virginia. The principal tributary of the Potomac, the river and its tributaries drain the central and lower Shenandoah Valley and the Page Valley in the Appalachians on the west side of the Blue Ridge Mountains, in northwestern Virginia and the Eastern Panhandle of West Virginia. The Shenandoah River is formed northeast of Front Royal near Riverton, by the confluence of the South Fork and the North Fork. Once in West Virginia the riv24 • Byways
er completes six large bends before joining with the Potomac from the south near Harpers Ferry 20 miles from the Virginia-West Virginia border. The river winds through the Shenandoah Valley, which is both a geographic valley and cultural region of western Virginia and the Eastern Panhandle of West Virginia. The valley is bounded to the east by the Blue Ridge Mountains, to the west by the eastern front of the Ridge-and-Valley Appalachians, to the north by the Potomac River and to the south by the James River. The cultural region covers a larger area that includes all of
The Shenandoah River in Page County, Virginia
the valley plus the Virginia highlands to the west, and the Roanoke Valley to the south. The Shenandoah Valley is underlain by limestone. The fertile soil made it a favored place for early settlement. It continues to be a major agricultural area of Virginia and West Virginia. The limestone is honeycombed with caves. Several have been developed as commercial tourist attractions, including Luray Caverns, Shenandoah Caverns, and Skyline Caverns. On the riverbank a few miles above Harpers Ferry is said to be a cave with an opening just large enough for a mounted rider to squeeze through. It widened in the interior to a spacious room where hundreds of Col. John Mosby’s raiding troops are said to have hidden from pursuing Union cavalry. Shenandoah River State Park is located on the South Fork of the Shenandoah River and has more than 1,600 acres along 5.2 miles of shoreline. The park opened in June 1999. In addition to meandering river frontage, the park offers scenic views of Massanutten Mountain to the west and Shenandoah National Park to the east. A large riverside picnic area, picnic shelters, trails, river access and a car-top boat launch make this a popular destination for families, anglers and canoeists. Ten riverfront tent campsites, a campground with water and electric sites, cabins, camping cabins and a group campground are available. With more than 24 miles of trails, the park has plenty of options for hiking, biking and horseback riding. Front Royal has been designated as the “Canoe Capital
Rafting on the Shenandoah River near Harpers Ferry, West Virginia. Photo courtesy National Park Service.
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The Shenandoah River (left) joins the Potomac River at Harpers Ferry, West Virginia. Photo courtesy National Park Service.
of Virginia.” Several outfitters in Front Royal offer trips on the Shenandoah River. The Shenandoah River is a very popular river for canoeing, river tubing, and white-water recreation such
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as rafting and kayaking, and several commercial outfitters offer a variety of guided trips and rentals. Those willing to brave the colder water of spring will be rewarded with a more challenging big-water experience.
Shenandoah Caverns is one of the most popular caves to explore in the Shenandoah Valley. And it’s the only one with an elevator.
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Shenandoah River near Harpers Ferry. Photo courtesy National Park Service. Nearby Shenandoah National Park is a beautiful, historic national treasure which includes the scenic 105mile long Skyline Drive, a designated National Scenic Byway. The Park covers the crest of Virginia’s Blue Ridge Mountains for over seventy-five miles. The Appalachian Trail roughly parallels the Skyline Drive and about 101 miles of this trail run through the Park. There are over 500 miles of hiking trails. Park Ranger programs are offered. A current list is available in the “Shenandoah Overlook.” Camping is available in the Park as are modern lodge facilities at Skyland Resort and Big Meadows Lodge. Full-service restaurants are at Skyland and Big Meadows plus there are “waysides” with lighter food. Thanks to its unique geography and agricultural abundance, the Shenandoah Valley was critical to both sides 28 • Byways
during the Civil War. Indeed, numerous military campaigns were waged here. Because much of the landscape remains unchanged, modern visitors can retrace the steps of Stonewall Jackson’s 1862 Valley Campaign, Lee’s invasion north in what would be the Gettysburg Campaign, and the campaigns of 1864 including Philip Sheridan’s Shenandoah Campaign. With its broad, sweeping campaigns, its effect on the civilian population, and above all, the accounts of the soldiers and officers who fought its battles, the Valley is a significant part of the Civil War story.
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The Schooner Alliance sails the York River.
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Sailing Amid History on Virginia’s York River
t was a beautiful day for sailing on Virginia’s York River, not far from its opening into Chesapeake Bay. The sun was beating down through the broken clouds, and the winds were perfect to raise the sails on the Schooner Serenity, and we could sit back and enjoy the beautiful surroundings. Just then, Captain Greg Lohse called our attention to the nearby shoreline. Over there, he said, was the army of British lord and Lieutenant General Lord Cornwallis. They were surrounded by the Continental Army led by General George Washington and French Army troops led by the Comte de Rochambeau. And right where we were in the river, was an American Naval blockade of Yorktown. The fire on Yorktown was heavier than ever as new artillery pieces joined the line. Cornwallis talked with 30 • Byways
his officers that day and they agreed that their situation was hopeless. And right there, on October 19, 1781, the articles of surrender were signed by the British, formally ending the American Revolutionary War. The colonies had gained their independence, and the United States of America was born. As American history goes, you can’t get much closer to the birth of a nation than right here on the York River in Yorktown, Virginia. Today Yorktown is part of the Historic Triangle of Yorktown, Jamestown and Williamsburg, and is the eastern terminus of the Colonial Parkway. And it’s one of the reasons that Greg and his wife Laura chose Yorktown to launch Yorktown Sailing Charters eight years ago.
The British surrender at Yorktown ends the American Revolutionary War.
By Steve Kirchner
The York River is a navigable estuary, approximately 34 miles long. It ranges in width from 1 mile at its head to 2.5 miles near its mouth on the west side of Chesapeake Bay. Its watershed drains an area including portions of 17 counties of the coastal plain of Virginia north and east of Richmond. With two authentic schooners, the Serenity and the Alliance, Yorktown Sailling Charters offers sailing daily from Yorktown’s beautiful pier. These include morning sailings at 11:00am, afternoon sailings at 2:00pm and evening sunset cruises. Both Greg and Laura are veteran sailers, having spent years teaching others the art of sailing. Their specialty has been working aboard tall ships, teaching seamanship and sailing skills to students of all ages and backgrounds. When they purchased the Serenity in 2000, they Raising the sails on the Serenity.
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Laura Lohse discusses sailing with a passenger on board the Serenity.
thought they might offer sailing cruises a few months a allow U.S. Navy year. But when Yorktown opened a new pier, the oppor- ships returning to tunity to offer sailing tours at home proved too attractive. the Norfolk Naval The schooner Alliance was added in 2005, and the two Shipyard to off load ship fleet now operates daily from April through live amunitiion at October. For the winter months the Lohses deadhead the the the U.S. Navy’s ships to the Caribbean where they operate cruises for up Naval Weapons to a week exploring the islands of the regions. Station Yorktown. “It’s a pretty nice way to make a living,” Greg says. Yorktown Sailing The cruises apeal to customers of all ages, from kids to Charters depart seniors. And special group tour rates are available. from the Yorktown Once on board, everyone is invited to become a sailor. Pier, 425 Water Greg and Laura use their teaching skills to help guests Street. Free nearby parking is available. http://www.sairaise the sails as the schooners get underway, an experi- lyorktown.com. info@sailyorktown.com. ence they will not soon forget. Snacks and drinks are available on board. One of the most popular cruises for kids has become a Pirate U.S. Navy vessel passes through Cruise, where pirates take over the the Coleman Memorial Bridge schooner and the rest is history. over the York River. Once the pirates are in control, down come the traditional sailing flags and up go the black pirate flags. Each of the schooners has a live cannon which is fired during the cruise. It makes for great theater, and the loud cannon blasts can be heard for miles as they echo under the George P. Coleman Memorial Bridge over the York River. The bridge itself is a major attraction from the river, as it opens and closes at a 90 degree angle to 32 • Byways
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North Platte River and
Scotts Bluff National Monument, Scotts Bluff, Nebraska. After 1850 this route became the primary route of the Oregon Trail, and one of its most visible landmarks.
d the Oregon Trail West
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North Platte River in Bridgeport, Nebraska.
he Oregon Trail was the principal route west followed by Americans looking for new opportunities in the mid-19th century: the 1840s, 1850s, and 1860s. It was a wagon road that followed streams and wound around hills, taking advantage of an ancient network of Indian Trails thoughout the West. In 1812, Fur trapper and trader Robert Stuart, leading
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a small party of men for the Astor Company, followed an Indian path in what is now Wyoming and discovered South Pass, a wide passage across the Continental Divide that made it possible for wagons drawn by oxen or mules to get across the Rocky Mountains. He and his men pioneered a trail through Wyoming and Nebraska following the North Platte and the Platte Rivers.
Courthouse Rock, a major landmark on the Oregon Trail in Nebraska.
The North Platte River is a major tributary of the Platte River and is approximately 716 miles long, counting its many curves. It travels about 550 miles distance, along a course that includes Colorado, Wyoming, and Nebraska. The North Platte River drainage has been an important westward route in the westward expansion of the United States. To get the two essentials, water and grass for the traveler's animals, the emigration trails nearly always followed river valleys across the North American continent. These trails extended from the Missouri River, Platte River and North Platte River across Nebraska and parts of Wyoming and on to its confluence with the Sweetwater
Jail Rock is another landmark along the Oregon Trail in Nebraska.
River in Wyoming. In 1825, well-known trapper and guide, Thomas
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Scotts Bluff National Monument Park Superintendent Ken Mabery explains the overland experience from the overlook at the top of the monument.
Fitzpatrick, rediscovered Stuart’s route, and it became the central overland route for the commercial fur trade and subsequently the route of the Oregon Trail. In 1841 the first emigrant wagon train set out for Oregon Territory from Independence, Missouri. It included 80 men, women and children guided by Fitzpatrick. They followed the North Platte River, passing Courthouse and Jail Rocks, Chimney Rock, and Scott’s Bluff and went through the South Pass. Courthouse Rock was the first in a chain of North Platte Valley landmarks, an erosional remnant of the chain of blues that extends for 40 miles up the south side of the North Platte Valley. Chimney Rock was the most frequently noted, and the most renowned of all the conspicuous Oregon Trail landmarks. In 1842, a military mapping expedition, led by Lt. John C. Fremont, made its way up the Platte and North Platte Rivers. The expedition report became the standard reference for later emigrants. Beginning in 1847, Mormons migrated to Utah, following the Mormon Trail, which closely paralleled the Oregon Trail. Over a period of 20 years, some 70,000 38 • Byways
Mormons made their way to Utah on foot. Gold was discovered in California in 1848. Within a year, 90,000 miners had arrived in California. Many came overland on the Oregon Trail as far as Salt Lake City, where the California Trail branched off to the southwest. Travel on the California Trail peaked in 1850, but continued until 1860, by which time 200,000 people had made the trip. In 1859 another wave of migrants headed to the Colorado gold fields. In 1860-61, the Pony Express, carrying mail in 10 days between St. Joseph, Missouri and Sacramento, California, followed the Oregon Trail as far as Salt Lake City. Historically, the North Platte River used to be up to a mile wide in many places as evidenced by the old streambed and written records. Today, by the time the North Platte reaches Paxton, Nebraska, it is much smaller due to the extensive water taken from it for irrigation.
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Tanking the Sandhills of Nebraska
he Sandhills of Nebraska is a region of mixedgrass prairie overlying and anchoring sand dunes that cover some 20,000 square miles in just over a quarter of the state. They are thought to be the largest dune field in the Western Hemisphere, formed about 8,000 years ago during a prolonged drought at the end of the last ice age. They were designated a National Natural Landmark in 1984. The dunes overlie the massive Ogallala Aquifer, a shallow water table beneath the Great Plains that extends over an area of 174,000 square miles under portions of eight states. It supplies drinking water for more than 80 percent of the people who live on the Plains and about 30 percent of all ground water used for irrigation in the United States. One of the best ways to experience the unique Sandhills enviroment is a float trip on the Middle Loup River. Glidden Canoe Rental offers tank trips on the Middle Loup as well as canoe and kayak rentals on the Middle Loup and Dismal Rivers. Tank trips are typically 40 • Byways
two or five hours. You’ll assemble at the Sandhills Motel in Mullen, Nebraska, where owner Mitch Glidden offers a personal welcome. It’s a short 10 minute ride to the Middle Loup where you’ll see the tanks you’ll be floating in for the first time. They look more like drinking tanks for livestock than the
Wild horses enter the Middle Loup River to check out these strange tanks.
traditional rafts usually encountered on float trips. In fact, that is exactly what they are -- retired metal tanks used to feed livestock on the open plains of the Ogallala Aquifer. Each tank comes with its own guide, and holds 5-7 riders. You'll put on life jackets for the float, but no seat belts. While shorts and swimsuits are the preferable clothing for the trip, most will make the trip without getting wet. The trip is relaxing, and best of all, the only skill required is the ability to lean back and let your tank float. With a picnic lunch provided by Glidden Canoe rental, you never have to think about bringing food or drink along, as it is provided for the group. The stock tanks are practically unsinkable, seven-to-nine-foot tanks perfect for people who prefer to stay dry while travelling the Sandhills rivers. From young children to seniors, the tank rides provide a relaxing, safe ride for everyone. As much as 85 percent of the Sandhills region is intact natural habitat. This is largely because the land has never been plowed. The fragility of the sandy soil makes the area unstable for cultivation of crops, and the region was considered desert until the 1870s when cattlemen began to discover its potential as rangeland for longhorn cattle.
Today, the Sandhills are still a productive cattle ranching area, supporting more than a half-million beef cattle. As you travel through some of these ranches on the Middle Loup River, don’t be surprised to encounter the unexpected, including wild horses curious about all the activity on the river. For more information: http://www.sandhillsmotel.com/river-adventures/middle-loup-river-trips/#sthash.MnJEhIvc.dpuf
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Branson’s Lakes
Table Rock Dam constructed in 1958 on the White River by the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers. It became one of the most popular draws for nearby Branson. 42 • Byways
Byways • 43
I
The Branson Skyline at dusk on Lake Taneycomo. Photo courtesy Branson/Lakes Area Convention and Visitors Bureau.
t’s a great story. In the late 1960s, two family-owned ed in 1912 and construction of the Powersite Dam nearand country-themed theaters moved to Highway 76 by on the White River which would form Lake in Branson, and the Branson entertainment strip is Taneycomo was completed. From 1913 until 1958 it was a warm water lake. In the born. They are joined by leading entertainers from 1930s, tourists began to be drawn to the lake and its nearthroughout the country. They build their own theaters, by communities, including Branson. and the sleepy little town of Branson in the Ozarks of Recognizing the potential of these new visitors, 12Missouri overnight turns into the leading live entertainyear Branson mayor and entrepreneur Jim Owen, built ment venue in the country, and one of America's top travthe first theater in 1934 on Commercial Street, originalel destinations. It’s a great story, and for many years, I had no reason ly called “The Hillbilly Theater” which began to attract people from far and wide to tour the area. to doubt it. But it’s not the whole story. That early success grew substantially with the creation In fact, Branson's success has as much or more to do of Table Rock Lake in southwestern Missouri and northwith the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers as it does with western Arkansas. The lake is impounded by Table Rock theaters on the Branson Strip. Dam constructed in 1954-1958 on the White River by In 1882, Reuben Branson opened a general store and the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers. It became one of the post office in the area. Branson was formally incorporat44 • Byways
The Branson Belle on Table Rock Lake.
most popular draws for visitors to nearby Branson, bringing thousands of new people to the area each year. There are several commercial marinas along the lake, and Table Rock State Park is located on the east side, both north and south of Table Rock Dam. Today you can enjoy a cruise on Table Rock Lake on the Showboat Branson Belle. Journey past lush Ozark Mountains on the crystal clear waters of Table Rock Lake during a two-hour lake cruise, experiencing fabulous Branson dining and the best in Branson shows. The completion of Table Rock Dam in 1958 changed the source of water to Taneycomo from that of the White River’s flowing waters to the bottom tailwater of Table Rock Lake from the dam spillway and made it into a cold water lake. The clear cold waters from the deep tailwaters of Table Rock Lake pour out of the dam into Lake Taneycomo. Downstream from the dam, the Missouri Department of Conservation operates a fish hatchery, which is Byways • 45
Branson Veterans Memorial. Photo courtesy of the Branson/Lakes Area Convention and Visitors Bureau.
used to stock trout in Lake Taneycomo. The cold water Outlaw Run, the world’s most daring wood coaster. The discharged from the dam creates a trout fishing environ- park’s biggest investment in a single ride in the past ment in Lake Taneycomo. decade, the new $10 million ride sends passengers soarIn 1894 William Henry Lynch bought Marble Cave ing through the Ozark Mountains on a ground-breaking (renamed Marvel Cave) and began charging visitors to wood coaster. tour it. Hugo and Mary Herschend leased the cave for 99 In addition to the natural wonders, world class artisans years in 1950 and began hosting square dances in it. The and breathtaking thrill rides, Silver Dollar City is also Herschend Family modernized the cave with electricity known for delectable home-style meals at restaurants and concrete staircases, and in 1960, the Herschends throughout the park. Find traditional favorites on a grand opened Silver Dollar City, which was a recreation of a scale and treats that will travel with you as you stroll frontier town that featured five shops, a church and a log through the City’s streets. cabin with actors that played out the feud between the In 1962 Paul Henning, inspired by a Boy Scout campHatfields and the McCoys. Silver Dollar City theme park evolved around the entrance to the One of two of the original Branson acts, the Baldknobbers. cave. Marvel Cave is a wet limestone Photo courtesy of the Branson/Lakes Area Convention and Visitors Bureau. cave, complete with formations that are still alive and growing. To begin, travel 300 feet below the surface and enter the Cathedral Room, the largest cave entrance room in the United States. Note: 600 stairs (300 down and 300 up). Today, Silver Dollar City is celebrating more than 50 years of entertaining families. Step back in time to an 1880s craft village filled with the best crafts, thrill rides, family attractions and festivals. Thrill ride enthusiasts around the world will mark a first-of-its-kind ride debut at Branson, the opening of 46 • Byways
ing trip to the Ozarks, created The Beverly Hillbillies which ran on first-run television until 1971. The first five episodes of Season 8 in 1969 are set in the Branson area when the Clampetts returned to their home. Henning later donated 1,534 acres for the Ruth and Paul Henning Conservation Area near Branson. The Presley Family (no relation to Elvis Presley) became the first to move their show, Presleys’ Country Jubilee, to Highway 76 in 1967, followed a year later by the Baldknobbers. Eventually Branson would have more than 50 theBranson Belle Stage aters, most of them located on Highway 76. Today the The Presleys invite you to come on in, have a seat and lose yourself in an evening of great music and hilarious comedy. The popular destination in the country for military reunions, kind of timeless American Entertainment you can share and a major reason is the special recognition reserved for veterans at virtually every show in town. And with 50 with the whole family! theaters offering multiple shows each day, that's alot of You can still see “The Show that Started it All!” This attention. Usually each show includes a tribute to veterBranson family entertainment phenomenon began more ans, and they are asked to stand and be recognized at than 50 years ago in 1959 when the four Mabe brothers, some point during each performance. known as the Baldknobbers, began entertaining visitors Explore Branson Landing and take a cruise aboard the on the Branson lakefront. Today, the 2nd & 3rd generations of the Mabe family carry on the family tradition of Lake Queen paddle wheeler. Branson’s newest large great country music and hilarious comedy. In 2011, the scale addition includes waterfront shopping, dining, Baldknobbers’ original costumes and instruments entertainment and more than 100 stores. Cruise south to became part of the permanent collection of the the Historic Lake Taneycomo Bridge as you hear about Smithsonian Institution’s National Museum of American Branson history. Pass beneath majestic Mt. Branson as History. See why this show remains popular from gener- you wind your way back north towards the 95-acre Branson Landing waterfront to witness the $7.5 million ation to generation. In 1983 Branson began its transformation into a major spectacular water attraction, merging water, fire, and tourist attraction when the Roy Clark Celebrity Theatre music. Yes, Branson is still a great story. But it’s a story that opened and began to bring famous country music stars to has as much to do Branson’s Lakes and outdoor recreBranson. Many of the performers who have had their ation as it does with indoor celebrity entertainment. own theaters in Branson first discovered Branson when they performed at this venue. Branson has become a special place that recognizes U.S. veterans on a daily basis. The Veterans Memorial Museum in Branson is a national tribute to the brave men and women who defended our liberties during the 20th century. As visitors wander the great halls of the museum they are captivated by the stories of these men and women who gave so much. The museum is filled with the most incredible collection of wartime exhibits covering the heights and depths of human experience. The Branson Belle. Photo courtesy Branson/Lakes Branson has become the most Area Convention and Visitors Bureau. Byways • 47
Heaven Hill’s Evan Williams Bourbon Experience(TM) Joins The Kentucky Bourbon Trail(R) Tour
T
Heaven Hill Distillery barrel entry rack. Photo courtesy www.kentuckytourism.com
he Kentucky Bourbon Trail(R) adventure is barreling into the River City, with Heaven Hill Distilleries’ new Evan Williams Bourbon Experience(TM) becoming the eighth stop on the worldfamous journey and the first ever in Louisville. “Our pioneer distillers like Evan Williams probably never dreamed what they were starting when they settled here generations ago,” said Louisville Mayor Greg Fischer. “Now, I can’t imagine what Louisville would be without the Bourbon industry.” More than 2.5 million people have visited Kentucky Bourbon Trail(R) distilleries in the last five years, said KDA President Eric Gregory. The iconic journey features Four Roses and Wild Turkey in Lawrenceburg; Heaven Hill’s Bourbon Heritage Center in Bardstown; Jim Beam in Clermont; Maker’s Mark in Loretto; Town Branch in Lexington; and Woodford Reserve in Versailles. Gregory cited a recent University of Louisville study that analyzed the surging impact of Bourbon tourism and the Kentucky Distillery Association’s “Passport” program that rewards visitors with a complimentary t-shirt when they tour all seven distilleries. Each Passport holder spends an average of $737 on their trip, the study found. “With nearly 50,000 completed Passports since 2007, the Kentucky Bourbon Trail alone is responsible for pouring more than $35 million into local coffers in the last five years,” Gregory said. “That’s an incredible amount, and it’s only going to get bigger with the addition of the Evan Williams Bourbon Experience and all that Louisville has to offer as a 48 • Byways
Kentucky Bourbon Trail anchor.” The Evan Williams Bourbon Experience(TM), located at 528 West Main Street, celebrates the legacy of Kentucky’s first commercial distiller and namesake of Heaven Hill’s flagship Bourbon brand, the second
Woodford Reserve Mint Julep. www.kentuckytourism.com
largest-selling Bourbon in the United States and the world. Williams, circa 1755-1810, was an early Trustee of the City of Louisville, wharfmaster and builder. He established his distillery in 1783 near what is now 6th and Main streets, almost directly across the street from where the new attraction is located. The educational experience offers guided tours where guests travel back in time
tors and impact,” she said. Louisville’s eclectic Bourbon nightlife - as highlighted by the Urban Bourbon Trail(R) - is a perfect complement to the Kentucky Bourbon Trail(R) tourist, said Jim Wood, President and CEO of the Louisville Convention and Visitors Bureau. “When
g n i n e p p a H s ’ t Wha
to see Evan Williams' original distillery, Louisville town hall meetings and wharf scenes and video renderings of turn-ofthe-century Whiskey Row. The highlight is a fully functioning artisanal pot still distillery, with gleaming copper pot stills that are a modern version of the same type of equipment Evan Williams used in his distillery more than 200 years ago. “We're confident that this new attraction will continue the revitalization of Whiskey Row and bring the same kind of success that we’ve been fortunate to receive with our Bourbon Heritage Center in Bardstown,” said Harry J. Shapira, Executive Vice President for Heaven Hill. Marcheta Sparrow, Secretary of the Kentucky Tourism, Arts and Heritage Cabinet, said the Kentucky Bourbon Trail(R) program is “perhaps the most innovative and best example of private sector tourism development Kentucky has ever experienced. “The combination of Louisville’s rich Bourbon history, the new Evan Williams Bourbon Experience and the Kentucky Bourbon Trail has enormous potential to rival California’s wine Historical Marker in country in terms of visi- downtown Louisville.
you come to Louisville to start or finish your Passport at the Evan Williams Bourbon Experience, we’re going to entice you with a diverse variety of Bourbon offerings, from classic restaurants and bars to Bourbon-themed hotels and more. We think you’re going to want to stay a few extra days.” Kentucky is the birthplace of Bourbon, producing 95 percent of the world’s supply, generating $2 billion in gross state product, and providing 9,000 jobs.
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Byways is published bi-monthly by Byways, Inc. and distributed electronically throughout North America. Byways is emailed to more than 4000 tour operators plus selected travel agencies through the internet. Subscriptions are complimentary. An iPad & iPhone version is available for consumers in iTunes and Newsstand in the App Store. Byways’ distribution includes motorcoach companies, tour operators, and selected travel agents, bank travel managers, school band and athletic planners, and meeting planners. For advertising rates, editorial deadlines, or to place advertising insertions, contact: Byways Magazine, 42 Cabin Hill Lane, Mount Jackson, VA 22842. Telephone 540477-3202. Fax 540-477-3858. Toll-free 800-469-0062. ©Copyright 2013 by Byways, Inc. All rights reserved. No portion of this publication may be duplicated in any form without express written permission of the publisher. Editor and Publisher Stephen M. Kirchner
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50 • Byways
52 29 13 5 39 27 21 11 6 51 22 45 33 6 29 3 41 2 12 33
www.arrowstagelines.com
motorcoach.com
Trieloff Tours
The National Reservation Center Charter a motorcoach anywhere in North America 888-733-5287 • nmn@motorcoach.com
Byways • 51
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