Byways Ocean Views 2014 by Byways, Inc.

Featuring North Americaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Leading Travel Destinations

Ocean Views

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ell County! fanfare of Cab ng for everyone! Join in the interes ts, Huntington has somethi No matter your

Get thrills and chills at Camden Park!

Explore historical Appalachia at Heritage Farm Museum & Village!

Eat, drink and be merry at our unique fairs & festivals!

Romp and play in our award-winning parks!

Scour the city on a geocaching adventure!

July 3 DAWG Dazzle Cheer on the Herd at Joan C. Edwards Stadium!

July 21-27 Cabell County Fair July 25-27 Huntington Classic: Powerboat Racing and Championship July 26 West Virginia Hotdog Festival

Discover the art of hand-blown glass at Blenko!

August 1-2 Blenko Festival of Glass Immerse yourself in art & culture at the Huntington Museum of Art!

August 16 Rails & Ales Festival

Catch a show at Big Sandy Superstore Arena!

August 22-24 Pilot Club Antique Fair August 23 Diamond Teeth Mary Blues and Arts Festival September 6 The Color Run September 13 Chilifest September 17-20 Barboursville Fall Fest September 26-28 Greek Festival September 27 Huntington Music & Arts Festival

Stop by the Visitors Center to pick up your free visitor’s guide! Visit our website at www.wvvisit.org for a complete listing of Cabell County’s attractions and festivals. 210 Eleventh Street | Huntington, WV | 304.525.7333

WHERE GROUPS DROP ANCHOR FOR A

G R E AT DAY Got a big group? So do we.....of ways to entertain you. Like raising the sails of a historic vessel. Cruising the Mystic River. Exploring a 19th-century seafaring village. And enjoying our galleries, exhibits, Planetarium, shopping, and delicious food. Come for a few hours, or a full day. Information: 860.572.5309 Reservations: 860.572.5322

Byways Magazine

Byways Magazine is celebrating its 31st year of publication in 2014, featuring the leading travel destinations along the highways and byways of North America. In 2010, Byways became an all digital publication. It is published in two versions, a free Turn-Key edition on the web for viewing on Computers, Android, iPhone and iPad. An Apple Newsstand/App Store edition including sound and interactive video is also available. All advertising and editorial is included in both versions of the publication. For advertising rates, editorial deadlines, or to place advertising insertions, contact: Byways Magazine 42 Cabin Hill Lane Mount Jackson, VA 22842 800-469-0062

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PREVIEW By Steve Kirchner, Editor & Publisher

n this issue of Byways we visit the Atlantic. Here, we visit Kure Beach, where maritime beaches and surf in our annual history meets world-class diving. On the Gulf Coast of Texas, we travel to Galveston Ocean Views coverage. Island, less than 50 miles from Houston. It was once The cover features the Lost Coast of called the “Wall Street” of the South, until the deadliest California in the extreme northern part natural disaster in U.S. history changed everything. of the state, in a larger area known as the But Galveston is thriving again, and we learn why. Redwood Coast. The Lost Coast reflects From the Gulf we travel to the West Coast of the extreme rural nature of this area, where there are no California and Oregon. roads within 70 miles of the coastline. After viewing the Redwood Coast, we travel across The Redwood Coast includes Humboldt County, the border to visit the Lighthouses of Oregon. There are California. This area holds a special place with me. After still 11 lighthouses to explore as you relive the maritime graduating from journalism school, I was hired as the history of years gone news director of a CBS by. You can tour these radio affiliate in Eureka. beautiful outposts and I spent my first days as a their surrounding journalist covering the waters as you travel the local beats, the town hall, Oregon coastline. the police, sheriffs office Back in Texas, we and the courts. travel northwest from In what little free time I Houston to visit Blue had, I enjoyed being in Bell, the little creamery this unique area of in Brenham. Why California, as far away would 200,000 people a from the large cities as year visit an ice cream one could imagine. factory? We get the And just as amazinganswer, and learn how ing, my last assignment Blue Bell has become a was covering the dedicafavorite of presidents, tion of the Redwood Clam Beach on the Redwood Coast. and one of the most National Park in 1969. I popular ice cream walked among the redbrands in the country. woods with the families of two presidents, beneath the In Kentucky, we visit a museum that has turned a nattallest trees in the world. Holding a small tape recorder ural disaster to its advantage. Learn how earlier this year I scored an interview with Lady Bird Johnson, whose a sinkhole nearly took down the entire museum, and how efforts were largely responsible for creation of the park. the National Corvette Museum has responded to the It’s been more than 40 years since, a stint in the Army, challenge. and taking a job 3000 miles away in Washington, DC. In What’s Happening, we travel to Utah to learn about Yet I can still remember walking in the redwoods as if it Movie Making in Moab. Here movie producers discovwas yesterday. I know you will enjoy reading our ered the diverse terrain could take on the face of anyRedwood Coast feature as much as I did. Byways’ Oceans View coverage begins in Charleston, where on Earth -- and beyond. And how this has South Carolina. Talk about history, this city has it all. translated to a movie making bonanza in Utah! Our final stop takes us to Pennsylvania, where we From the American Revolution, to the place the U.S. meet Tom Groff, Mayor of Traintown, USA, and a man Civil War began with the bombardment of Fort Sumpter. who has been taking model railroading to new heights Despite its roots in War, Charleston today is known as for more than 50 years. the friendliest city in America. We hope you enjoy this issue of Byways. Shipwrecks at the Shore tops our visit to North Carolina, where more than 1,000 ships have been lost, and the Carolina coast is dubbed the Graveyard of the 4 • Byways

! y t n u o C ll e b a e of C r a f n a f e h t everyone! n i r fo ng hi et Join m so s ha on gt interests, Huntin No matter your

Get thrills and chills at Camden Park!

Explore historical Appalachia at Heritage Farm Museum & Village!

Eat, drink and be merry at our unique fairs & festivals!

Romp and play in our award-winning parks!

Scour the city on a geocaching adventure!

Cheer on the Herd at Joan C. Edwards Stadium!

July 3 DAWG Dazzle

August 22-24 Pilot Club Antique Fair

July 21-27 Cabell County Fair

August 23 Diamond Teeth Mary Blues and Arts Festival

July 25-27 Huntington Classic: Powerboat Racing and Championship July 26 West Virginia Hotdog Festival

Discover the art of hand-blown glass at Blenko!

August 1-2 Blenko Festival of Glass Immerse yourself in art & culture at the Huntington Museum of Art!

Catch a show at Big Sandy Superstore Arena!

August 16 Rails & Ales Festival

September 6 The Color Run September 13 Chilifest September 17-20 Barboursville Fall Fest September 26-28 Greek Festival September 27 Huntington Music & Arts Festival

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Volume 31, Issue No. 3, 2014 On the cover. The spectacular Lost Coast is the most unspoiled stretch of wilderness on the California coastline. No major road approaches the ocean here for over 70 miles. For more on California’s Northern Coast, turn to page 28. Ocean Views coverage begins with a visit to Charleston, SC on page 8. Ocean Views . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 Charleston, SC, America’s Most Friendly City . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 Shipwrecks at the Shore . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 Galveston, Oh, Galveston . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 California’s Redwood Coast . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 Lighthouses of the Oregon Coast . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 Blue Bell, the Little Creamery in Brenham, Texas. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 Kentucky Museum Turns Disaster to Advantage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44

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Byways Instant Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 Byways Preview. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 Advertisers Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51 Free Byways Subscription . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53

What’s Happening

Movie Making in Moab. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48 Taking Model Railroading to New Heights for 50 Years . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50

Coming in future issues of Byways…. . .North American Rivers and Lakes, Great American Roads, North America’s Top Tour Destinations, and much more! At right: Rafting on the Payette River in Idaho.

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Walking on an Atlantic Ocean beach in Charleston, South Carolina. Photo courtesy ExploreCharleston.com 8 â&#x20AC;˘ Byways

Ocean Views

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Charleston, SC, America’s Most Friendly City

Atlantic Ocean beaches near Chrelston, SC. Photo courtesy ExploreCharleston.com

nown for its rich history, well-preserved architecture, distinguished restaurants, and mannerly people, Charleston, South Carolina has received a large number of accolades. These include “America's Most Friendly City” by Travel & Leisure in 2011 and in 2013 by Condé Nast Traveler, and also “the most polite and hospitable city in America” by Southern Living magazine. Charleston is located on Charleston Harbor, an inlet of the Atlantic Ocean formed by the confluence of the Ashley and Cooper Rivers. Founded in 1670 as Charles Towne in honor of King Charles II of England, Charleston adopted its present name in 1783. As the relationship between the colonists and Britain deteriorated, Charles Towne became a focal point in the ensuing American Revolution. It was twice the target of British attacks. 1776 General Sir Henry Clinton along with 2,000 men and a naval squadron tried to seize Charles Towne, hoping for a simultaneous Loyalist uprising in South Carolina. When the fleet fired cannonballs, the explosives failed to penetrate Fort Sullivan's unfinished, yet thick, palmetto log walls. Additionally, no local Loyalists attacked the town from behind, as the British had hoped. Col. Moultries' men were able to return fire and inflicted heavy damage on several of the British ships. Clinton returned in 1780 with 14,000 soldiers. 10 • Byways

American General Benjamin Lincoln was trapped and surrendered his entire 5,400 men force after a long fight, and the Siege of Charles Towne was the greatest American defeat of the Revolutionary war. When the city was freed from the British, General Nathanael Greene presented its leaders with the Moultrie Flag, describing it as the first "American" flag flown in the South. Although the city lost the status of state capital to Columbia, Charleston became even more prosperous in the plantation-dominated economy of the postRevolutionary years. The invention of the cotton gin in 1793 revolutionized the production of this crop, and it quickly became South Carolina's major export commodity. Cotton plantations relied heavily on slave labor, and slaves were also the primary labor force within the city, working as domestics, artisans, market workers and laborers. On December 20, 1860, following the election of Abraham Lincoln, the South Carolina General Assembly voted to secede from the Union. On January 9, 1861, Citadel cadets opened fire on the Union ship Star of the West entering Charleston's harbor. On April 12, 1861, shore batteries under the command of General Pierre G. T. Beauregard opened fire on Union-held Fort Sumter in the harbor. After a 34-hour bombardment, Major Robert Anderson surrendered the fort, thus starting the war.

St. Michael's Church is an historic church and the oldest surviving religious structure in Charleston.

Union forces repeatedly bombarded the city, causing vast damage, and kept up a blockade that shut down most commercial traffic, although some blockade runners got through. In a failed effort to break the blockade on February 17, 1864, an early submarine, the H.L. Hunley made a night attack on the USSÂ Housatonic.

In 1865, Union troops moved into the city and took control of many sites, including the United States Arsenal, which the Confederate Army had seized at the outbreak of the war. The War Department also confiscated the grounds and buildings of the Citadel Military Academy, and used them as a federal garrison for over

Boone Hall Plantation. Photo courtesy ExploreCharleston.com

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Aerial View of Charleston. In the background is the Arthur Ravenel, Jr. Bridge, constructed in 2005. It was at the time of its construction the second longest cable-stayed bridge in the Western Hemisphere. Photo courtesy ExploreCharleston.com

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In 1861 Fort Sumter in Charleston Harbor was attacked, starting the U.S. Civil War. Photo courtesy ExploreCharleston.com

seventeen years. The facilities were finally returned to the state and reopened as a military college in 1882. After the defeat of the Confederacy, Federal forces remained in Charleston during the city's reconstruction. The war had shattered the prosperity of the antebellum city. Freed slaves were faced with poverty and discrimination. Industries slowly brought the city and its inhabitants back to a renewed vitality and growth in population. On August 31, 1886, Charleston was nearly destroyed by an earthquake measuring 7.3 on the Richter scale. It was felt as far away as Boston, Massachusetts to the north, Chicago, Illinois and Milwaukee, Wisconsin to the northwest, as far west as New Orleans, Louisiana, as far south as Cuba, and as far east as Bermuda. It damaged 2,000 buildings in Charleston. Joseph P. Riley, Jr. was elected mayor in the 1970s, and helped advance several cultural aspects of the city. Riley has been the major proponent of reviving Charleston's economic and cultural heritage. The last thirty years of 14 â&#x20AC;˘ Byways

the 20th century saw major new reinvestment in the city, with a number of municipal improvements and a commitment to historic preservation. These commitments were not slowed down by Hurricane Hugo and continue to this day. The eye of Hurricane Hugo came ashore at Charleston Harbor in 1989, causing 2.8 billion dollars in damage. Charleston is famous for its unique culture, which blends traditional Southern U.S., English, French, and West African elements. The downtown peninsula is well known for its art, music, local cuisine, and fashion. Spoleto Festival USA, held annually in late spring, has become one of the world's major performing arts festivals. It was founded in 1977 by Pulitzer Prize-winning composer Gian Carlo Menotti, who sought to establish a counterpart to the Festival dei Due Mondi (the Festival of Two Worlds) in Spoleto, Italy.

WHERE GROUPS DROP ANCHOR FOR A

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Shipwrecks at the Shore

Maritime History Meets World-Class Diving at North Carolina’s Kure Beach

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The Kure Beach pier is the oldest pier on the Atlantic Coast. Photo courtesyWilmington and Beaches CVB.

ike most beaches, Kure Beach can boast of sand, sunrises and surf. But unlike most beaches, this North Carolina beach is making a name for itself for being home to hundreds of fascinating sites that can be seen far below the surface. Visitors are drawn to this small wonder by the opportunity to dive in waters where a host of historic shipwrecks can be explored and fascinating prehistoric fossils can be found on the ocean’s natural ledges. In addition to being an ideal beach vacation spot, Kure Beach is the kind of place where visitors can dive at the same site dozens of times and still walk away from each dive with a unique underwater experience that features aquatic life, historic artifacts and much more. 18 • Byways

Underwater Archaeology Branch of the North Carolina Office of State Archaeology Nathan Henry doesn’t dive for leisure; he dives for a living. As the Assistant State Archaeologist and Conservator, Henry stays busy overseeing research on North Carolina’s estimated 1,000 shipwrecks and sunken boats. His office is at the North Carolina Underwater Archaeology Branch (UAB) located at Fort Fisher State Historic Site at Kure Beach. Including Henry, the UAB employs three archeologists, a technician, an office manager and several interns from local universities. The UAB was established when the Modern Greece, a Civil War-era blockade runner, was unearthed after a big storm in the spring of 1962. Although it’s based at Kure Beach, the UAB works

tion, the lab is limited to conserving artifacts owned by the state of North Carolina. Currently, the UAB’s most comprehensive and pressing project is the excavation of the Queen Anne’s Revenge—the legendary flagship that belonged to the notorious pirate Blackbeard before running aground on a Beaufort sandbar 110 miles north of Kure Beach. Dubbed the Graveyard of the Atlantic, North Carolina’s 300-mile coast may be familiar to history buffs, but the UAB works hard to educate the general population about North Carolina's maritime history as a whole.

Ready, Set, SCUBA! In addition to natural ledges, Kure Beach is home to a number of historic shipwrecks and even sites where ships were intentionally sunk in order to create artificial reefs. At one shipwreck, the City of Houston, divers have found china plates, silver flatware, medicine bottles and more. From May to August, the most popular shipwrecks among divers are the Hyde and the nearby Markham.

statewide and is responsible for everything found in North Carolina waters. UAB projects and exhibits range from the prehistoric to the present, and the office maintains extensive records on everything from wooden dugout canoes to iron-hulled blockade runners and classic steamboats. In all, the UAB keeps track of more than 5,000 documented shipwrecks. The UAB is also home to a preservation laboratory where a full-time conservator oversees a growing collection of artifacts. Due to the high volume of artifacts awaiting conserva-

Shark and Diver. Photo courtesy Wilmington and Beaches CVB. Byways • 19

The North Carolina Aquarium at Fort Fisher, Kure Beach was recognized by The Travel Channel as one of the Best Aquariums in the U.S. Photo courtesyWilmington and Beaches

Both ships are fully intact, making them good dive sites for beginners. During those same months, these wrecks are home to a healthy population of sand tiger sharks that divers find to be more amusing than alarming. Aquatic Safaris, which is based in nearby Wilmington and recently acquired a new 36 ft. custom dive boat, leads charter dives to Kure Beach sites including the fabled Fossil Ledge. Also known as Megalodon Ledge, Fossil Ledge is famous for having a significant amount of teeth that belonged to the megalodon—an extinct whale-eating shark that experts believe to be the largest shark that ever lived. When divers ask about the probability of finding these prehistoric prizes, Chris Slog, an instructor at Aquatic Safaris, says, “Nothing is guaranteed, but most divers return to the boat with at least one tooth. The largest megalodon tooth that we’ve found was about 7 inches long. It was bigger than most human hands!” Other souvenirs that divers could take home include whale vertebrae and teeth. Just a five-minute drive north of Kure Beach at Carolina Beach, divers can board the CDA1 boat owned and operated by Carolina Diving Adventures, which offers SCUBA diving charters to Kure Beach sites. Their most popular trips are to ledges, but their wreck diving is also quite popular. Carolina Diving Adventures offers night dives, spearfishing dives and overnight trips. 20 • Byways

In 2012 and 2013, Scuba-Now, also based in Wilmington and also offering dives to Kure Beach sites, was recognized as one of the top three dive shops in the U.S. by the National Association of Underwater Instructors. The shop is known for having a nearly-perfect safety record and is also celebrated for providing free SCUBA lessons to Purple Heart recipients. Also offering dives to Kure Beach sites is DivingCarolina.com whose boat, the Double D, is outfitted with all the bells and whistles including fresh water showers, a fish-cutting station, a grill, audio, sonar and video recording. The Double D is docked at nearby Wrightsville Beach where it’s a nice 60-minute cruise to Kure Beach dive sites. Most dives offered by local outfitters are open to ages 12 and up and require certification. Fortunately, many of the dive shops also offer certification courses and some even make it easier for travelers by offering weekend certification classes that allow them to become certified in as few as three days. For a complete list of dive shops offering trips to Kure Beach, visit www.WilmingtonAndBeaches.com/things-to-do.com

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Galveston, Oh, Galveston

Cruise ship is docked near Texas Seaport Museum. Photo courtesy Galveston Island Convention & Visitors Bureau.

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Downtown Galveston Strand. Photo courtesy Galveston Island CVB.

alveston Island is a historic beach town located on the Gulf of Mexico just 50 miles from Houston. The island is best known as a vacation destination, offering 32 miles of beaches, a variety of family attractions, Texasâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; premier cruise port and one of the largest and well-preserved concentrations of Victorian architecture in the country, including several National Historic Landmarks. The city of Galveston is situated on Galveston Island, a barrier island off the Texas Gulf coast near the mainland coast. By the end of the 19th century, the city of Galveston had a population of 37,000. Its position on the natural harbor of Galveston Bay along the Gulf of Mexico made it the center of trade in Texas. It was one of the largest cotton ports in the nation, in competition with New Orleans. Throughout the 19th century, the port city of Galveston grew rapidly and the Strand was considered the region's primary business center. 24 â&#x20AC;˘ Byways

For a time, the Strand was known as the "Wall Street of the South". It was devastated by the 1900 Galveston Hurricane, whose effects included flooding and a storm surge. The Beach Review Winners.

Mardi Gras Beachfront Parade Evening in Galveston. natural disaster on the exposed barrier Photo courtesy Galveston Island CVB. island is still ranked as the deadliest in United States history, with an estimated toll of 6,000-8,000 people. Following the storm, a 10-mile long, 17 foot high seawall was constructed to protect the city from floods and hurricane storm surge. Despite attempts to draw new investment to the city after the hurricane, Galveston never fully returned to its previous levels of national importance or prosperity. Galveston's modern economy is centered in the tourism, health care, shipping, and financial industries. Galveston is also home to six historic districts containing one of the largest and historically significant collections of 19th-century buildings with over 60 attraction for the island city. It is the center for two very structures listed in the National Register of Historic popular seasonal festivals. It is widely considered the Places. island's shopping and entertainment center. The Strand National Historic Landmark District is Today, "the Strand" is generally used to refer to the mainly Victorian era buildings that have been adapted entire five-block business district between 20th and 25th for use as restaurants, antique stores, historical exhibits, streets in downtown Galveston, very close to the city's museums and art galleries. The area is a major tourist wharf. The Ocean Star Offshore Drilling Rig & Museum. Photo courtesy Galveston Island CVB.

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The Port of Galveston, also called Galveston Wharves, began as a trading post in 1825. Today, the port has grown to 850 acres of port facilities. The port is located on the Gulf Intracoastal Waterway, on the north side of Galveston Island, with some facilities on Pelican Island. The port has facilities to handle all types of cargo including containers, dry and liquid bulk cargoes. The port also serves as a passenger cruise ship terminal for cruise ships operating in the Caribbean. In the late 1800s Galveston was known as the "Playground of the South". Today, it still retains a shared claim to the title among major cities along the Gulf Coast states. The city's attractions include the Galveston Island Historic Pleasure Pier, Galveston Schlitterbahn waterpark, Moody Gardens botanical park, the Ocean Star Offshore Drilling Rig & Museum, the Lone Star Flight Museum, and Galveston Railroad Museum. The Strand plays host to a yearly Mardi Gras festival, Galveston Island Jazz & Blues Festival and a Victorianthemed Christmas festival called Dickens on the Strand (honoring the works of novelist Charles Dickens, especially A Christmas Carol) in early December. Galveston is home to several historic ships: the tall ship Elissa (the official Tall Ship of Texas) at the Texas Seaport Museum and USS Cavalla and USS Stewart, both berthed at Seawolf Park on nearby Pelican Island. Galveston is ranked the number one cruise port on the Gulf Coast and fourth in the United States. For more on visiting Galveston, follow the link below. http://www.galveston.com/socialcenter/ The Galveston Island Historic Pleasure Pier. Galveston is home to several historic ships: the tall ship Elissa. Photos courtesy Galveston Island CVB.

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Photos courtesy Humboldt County Convention & Visitors Bureau.

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Californiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Redwood Coast

The Redwood Coast. The splendid drama of the California Coast is played out along 110 miles of Humboldt County coastline. In this scene, taken in north county in Redwood National Park, the redwoods meet the sea in a scene of stunning beauty, and sandy beaches invite exploring and beachcombing. Photo by Don Forthuber.

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Hiking in the Redwoods. Hiking trails abound for all levels of abilityâ&#x20AC;Śwhat they have in common is a hushed sense of reverence as you wind your way between the mighty trees. Photo by Bob Von Normann.

bout 200 miles north of San Francisco on Hwy. 101, the Redwood Coast boasts the world's tallest trees, the country’s premier national and state redwood parks, six wild and scenic rivers, Victorian towns and unique seaports. Eureka is the capital of this fabled region, and sits on Humboldt Bay, mid-way between Ferndale and Arcata, California, five hours north of San Francisco. Located in the heart of California's rugged North Coast and giant redwood forests, here is a blend of spectacular natural beauty, colorful history, Victorian architectural wonders, and the roar of the Pacific Ocean all come together. Looking for something unique. That you simply can’t find anywhere else in North America? You’ve found it here!

Walk among the world’s tallest trees

A 379-foot coastal redwood in Redwood National Park is the world's tallest tree. Although it's too remote for most visitors, adventurers can explore its impressive neighbors. Having the best growing condition for redwoods anywhere, Humboldt County boasts most of the top twenty tallest trees. It has a string of state and county parks with The Carson Mansion of Eureka, the premier Victorian home of the state, in a county where hundreds of 19th Century homes remain.

groves just as impressive as those in the national park, and includes the Avenue of the Giants, a 30-mile drive through the largest intact old growth redwood forest.

Albino redwoods make home in Humboldt

Humboldt County is known for its redwoods. So how come some of them are white? Of the several dozen known albino redwoods in existence, six are in Humboldt Redwoods State Park. The forest ghosts, which hide in the darkest parts of old growth forests, often leave visitors astounded. Their snow-white needles, which lack any pigmentation, sometimes seem to glow against the backdrop of their shady environments.

No place lays greater claim to the legendary man-beast than Willow Creek, the town where the term Bigfoot was first coined in 1958 and where the famous 1967 footage of the Patterson-Gimlin Bigfoot was filmed. The region remains a hotbed of sightings. Visitors often stop in Willow Creek to tour the Bigfoot museum, which has the largest collection of Bigfoot curios. Serious or no, travelers looking for the hairy creature can partake in more reliable Bigfoot experiences.

Hunt for bigfoot

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Whitewater raft on the Trinity River with Bigfoot Rafting Company, uncork a bottle of Bigfoot Red at Bigfoot Restaurant, drive on the Bigfoot Highway into the scenic Hoopa Reservation, rest at the Bigfoot Hotel, tee off at the Bigfoot Golf Course, and visit during Labor Day weekend for Bigfoot Days, the largest annual celebration of the legendary man-beast.

The Eureka Boardwalk. Photo by Don Leonard.

The longest undeveloped coastline in the continental United States, the Lost Coast is a protected federal and state wilderness area, primarily in the King Range Conservation Area. This rugged mountain terrain has a secret surfing nirvana, coastal backpacking trails, a black sands beach, remote lighthouse hikes and almost 100 miles of pristine beachfront. While there are virtually no signs of civilization, one can find nice creature comforts in the town Shelter Cove.

Get lost on the Lost Coast

Best small arts town in America, Saturday night style

Want to know why culture guru John Villani picked Eureka as one of the best small arts towns in America? One reason is the Arts Alive! arts walk, which keeps Old Town up well into the evening on the first Saturday highbrow and lowbrow artists alike. For more information on visiting Califorinia’s North each month. Tourists and residents graze and sip their Coast, contact the Humboldt County Convention & way along the Victorian seaport’s waterfront, where hisVisitors Bureau. http://redwoods.info/index.asp toric galleries and businesses showcase the inspiration of

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Tour of the Unknown Coast. A paradise for cyclists of all stripes, the Redwood Coast is a particularly favorite mecca for touring bikers. Photo by Jack Hopkins.

Kinetic Sculpture Race. Only in Humboldt County could an event as bizarre as the Kinetic Grand Championship thrive for over thirty years! Each Memorial Day weekend, dozens of teams set out on a three-day, 40-mile odyssey through streets, sand, mud and water aboard self-built, human-powered vehicles, each a work of art. The wacky behavior, odd race rules and general merriment make it unforgettable. Photo by Richard Stenger. The spectacular Lost Coast is the most unspoiled stretch of wilderness on the California coastline. No major road approaches the ocean here for over 70 miles. Photo by Carrie Grant.

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Lighthouses of the Oregon Coast

Heceta Head Lighthouse, north of Florence, OR, is one of the most photographed icons on the West Coast. The automated beacon can be seen 21 miles from land. Photographer: Christian Heeb. Photo courtesy Travel Oregon.

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Yaquina Head Lighthouse near Newport, boasts Oregon's tallest tower at 93 feet. Photographer: Christian Heeb. Yaquina Head Lighthouse was used as the setting for the "Moesko Island Lighthouse" in the 2002 film "The Ring." Courtesy Travel Oregon.

till standing watch along the coast, Oregon’s 11 lighthouses house the maritime history of years gone by. Tour these beautiful outposts and their surrounding waters as you travel the Oregon coastline. Cape Arago is located in Charleston just west of Coos Bay, and is easily noticeable due to its distinct fog horn. It was first illuminated in 1934, and stands at 44 feet above sea level. The Lighthouse is located on an island and is not accessible to the public but views and photos can be had from the viewing point on Cape Arago Highway or from Lighthouse Beach Cape Blanco in Port Orford, OR. This isolated light36 • Byways

house holds at least four Oregon records: it is the oldest continuously operating light, the most westerly, it has the highest focal plane above the sea, (256 feet), and Oregon’s first woman keeper, Mabel E. Bretherton signed on in March 1903. Located near Three Capes Scenic Loop, Cape Meares was constructed in 1888. It is the shortest lighthouse on the Oregon Coast, with a 38-foot tower. Visitors can take various trails to reach the lighthouse, as well as viewing areas with stellar sea lions and various seabirds. Cleft of the Rock lighthouse is placed on a bluff near Cape Perpetua, and attached to the home of its former keeper, Jim Gibbs. This lighthouse is somewhat mysteri-

addition to seabird nesting sites and nearby Bed and Breakfasts located in the assistant keeper’s home. Editor’s Tip: The short 1/2 mile hike to the top of the lighthouse from the parking lot is well worth the effort. As the newest lighthouse on the Oregon Coast, Pelican Bay can signal up to 12 miles out to sea. It was first lit in 1999, and stands 141 feet above sea level. This lighthouse is not open to the public, but can be viewed from Brookings Harbor. West of Tillamook Head, this lighthouse was constructed on top of a rock in 1880. The construction of this particular lighthouse was thought to be incredibly risky, but its five workers beat the odds. Because this lighthouse was built on a rock, it is not accessible to the public. However, visitors can easily see it and a beautiful view of the surrounding ocean from Ecola State Park. Umpqua Lighthouse. This lighthouse has a 65-foot

ous, as it can only be seen from highway 101. It was also originally designed as a private navigation device for the United States Coast Guard. Coquille River lighthouse was first built in Bullards Beach State Park in 1891, and later renovated in 1976. Mariners were also guided across dangerous sand bars with the help of this lighthouse. Parks and beaches surrounding the lighthouse are open to the public, in addition to the tower itself. Named after Don Bruno de Heceta, a Spanish explorer, Heceta Head lighthouse is located north of Florence. This 56-foot tower was first lit in 1894. A half-mile hike will lead visitors to this lighthouse, in

Cape Blanco Lighthouse is the oldest continously operating lighthouse in Oregon.

Byways • 37

Tillamook Rock Lighthouse was lit in 1881, operated until 1957; known as "Terrible Tilly" due to erratic weather conditions and the dangerous commute for keepers and suppliers.

tower, which started in 1890. It is located near Reedsport and Umpqua Lighthouse State Park. First illuminated in 1894, Umpqua River lighthouse gives off very distinct red and white flashes. Visitors can check out the inside of the lighthouse, nearby park, or Lake Marie. Yaquina Bay lighthouse was built in 1871, but is no longer in use today. Due to this, a few ghost stories have been told about this particular lighthouse. Visitors can tour the lighthouse itself, as well as a gift shop in its basement and its antique period furniture. Yaquina Head has the tallest tower on the Oregon Coast, and stands at 162 feet above sea level. This is the only lighthouse in Oregon with a marble floor. Yaquina Head is open to the public, and surrounded by the Yaquina Head Outstanding Natural Area. For more on visiting the Lighthouses of Oregon, visit: http://traveloregon.com 38 â&#x20AC;˘ Byways

Cape Meares Light

Yaquina Bay lighthouse was built in 1871, but is no longer in use today. Due to this, a few ghost stories have been told about this particular lighthouse.

Umpqua River Light

Byways â&#x20AC;˘ 39

Blue Bell, the Little Creamery in Brenham, Texas

his year more than 200,0000 people will tour the Blue Bell Creamery in Brenham, Texas. Its ice cream products are so popular that presidents have had it shipped to the White House. But how did a 100 year-old small town creamery become so successful? Back in August, 1907, in the midst of a typically hot Texas summer, a group of local folks in the small, but prosperous town of Brenham, in east Texas 70 miles northwest of Houston, got together and decided to start a local creamery. Most of the farmers in the area had a few dairy cows, and in the spring, the cows produced much more milk that the local farmers needed. 40 • Byways

A creamery, it was reasoned, would buy the excess dairy products and produce butter for local sales. The famers would realize a little extra income, and the opportunity to sell milk and cream would bring more business to the local town. The idea seemed so sound that the Brenham Creamery Company was founded with an investment of $2,200. This was the beginning of the Blue Bell Creameries, a company which today is recognized as producing what some have called the “best ice cream in the country.” But the steady growth and high-quality standards alone don’t really explain the success of Blue Bell. It’s never just been a company selling ice cream. Blue Bell

remained close to its origins in rural Texas and, as a result, has a special place in the hearts of the consumers who enjoy the companies products. Understanding Brenham is an important part of understanding Blue Bell. The town was founded in 1845 in Washington County, an area originally settled by Stephen F. Austin’s “Old 300” Anglo-Texans and later by hardworking farm folk of German and Polish descent. Washington-on-the-Brazos, located just a few miles from Brenham, was the original capital of Texas and the site of the signing of the Texas Declaration of Independence from Mexico in 1836. Brenham today is rich with historic lore, represented by many picturesque 19th century and 20th century homes built during the days of the town’s early prosperity as a center of agriculture. In 1911 the position of manager was offered to E.F. Kruse, son of a successful local farmer, and a recent college graduate. In 1930 Kruse changed the name of the company to Blue Bell Creameries, Inc., after his favorite Texas wildflower, the bluebell, which blooms in the hot months — just like the ice cream business. In 1941 Kruse started his two sons working at the ice cream plant. Ed Kruse was 13 at the time, his brother Howard was 11. Both eventually went on to Texas A&M to study daily science. In 1951 E.F. Kruse died, and Ed became manager. At the time Blue Bell faced fierce competition from at least 25 other ice cream companies in the same market! In 1954 Howard Kruse joined Blue Bell as assistant manager, and the two brothers worked together to further enhance the company. Today, Ed continues to serve as chairman of the board. Howard retired, but remains active in the company. Paul

Workers on the line in Brenham. Byways Photo. Byways • 41

Kruse, sone of Ed, is now Blue Bell’s CEO and president, representing the third generation of Kruses to manage the company. In 1969, two major events took place. Howard Kruse developed Homemade Vanilla and Blue Bell hired the Metzdorf Advertising Agency of Houston. Homemade Vanilla, produced from a recipe that is still the company’s most closely guarded secret, was designed to taste like handcranked homemade ice cream. Over 40 years later, Homemade Vanilla is still the best selling flavor at Blue Bell. Metzdorf Advertising created the image that Blue Bell is the “Little Creamery in Brenham” using local settings and local residents to represent the down-home, made in the country quality of Blue Bell products. Growth has continued through the years for Blue Bell, with its brands 42 • Byways

High-speed machines fill the containers to exact specifications. Byways Photo.

Regardless of size, each container receives the same amount of ice cream.

now distributed to states adjoining Texas, and beyond. You can tour the entire facilBlue Bell Ice Cream is currently available in 23 states ity and view all of the operaincluding Alabama, Arizona, Florida, Georgia, tions through glass windows Louisiana, Mississippi, North Carolina, Oklahoma, from above. Upon compleTexas, South Carolina and parts of Arkansas, Colorado, tion of the creamery tour, Illinois, Indiana, Kentucky, Missouri, New Mexico, Visitors can enjoy handNevada, Ohio, Tennessee, Virginia and Wyoming. dipped ice cream in the ice Despite being sold in only 23 states, Blue Bell is the cream parlor and shop for tthird largest selling ice cream brand in the United States. shirts and other memorabilia The company is so successful that its ice cream sales repin the Blue Bell Country resents 60 percent of ice cream sold in supermarkets in Store. Texas. Despite its growth and success through the years, Blue Former Presidents George H.W. Bush and George W. Bell Ice Cream remains the “Little Creamery in Bush shipped Blue Bell from Texas to the White House Brenham.” and Kennebunkport, and Blue Bell was served to forFudgesicles on the line at Blue Bell. eign dignitaries visiting the Byways photo. Crawford, Texas ranch. Today Blue Bell produces 250 different products, including a rotating menu of over 50 different flavors of Blue Bell Ice Cream. The tour of the Blue Bell Creamery is one of the most popular in East Texas. Byways • 43

Kentucky Museum Turns Disaster to Advantage

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A giant sinkhole inside the Skydome of the National Corvette Museum in Bowling Green, Kentucky. Photo courtesy National Corvette Museum. Byways â&#x20AC;˘ 45

The scene of the orginal sinkhole disaster. Photo courtesy National Corvette Museum.

n February 12 the National Corvette Museum in Bowling Green, KY experienced one of the most unusual events ever to strike a museum. A natural disaster had occurred â&#x20AC;&#x201D; inside the museum! A 40' wide by 60' disaster called a sinkhole. What the Museum did, in turn, was even more unexpected than the sinkhole itself. The Museum turned the misfortune into a tourist attraction. It could do so because there were no injuries or fatalities caused by the sinkhole. But it did lose 8 of its most prized vehicles, sucked into the mammoth hole inside the museumâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Skydome. "We started with a Plexiglas viewing window so guests could see the construction going on inside the Skydome, and eventually the recovery of the Corvettes," said Katie Frassinelli, Marketing and Communications Manager at the Museum. "We always had one web cam available inside the Skydome, and due to the growing interest and popularity we added two more so our online visitors could get additional angles to view what was going on." The interest in the damaged Corvettes continued to grow as did the Museum's attendance, so much so that the Museum decided to leave the sinkhole for the summer, and delay construction until after their 20th Anniversary Celebration August 27-30. "We have about 46 â&#x20AC;˘ Byways

6,500 Corvette enthusiasts from all over the world preregistered for our event so far, and many of them have expressed an interest in seeing the damaged cars as well as the sinkhole. Determining the best method for repairing it and getting bids on the construction work has been a time consuming process also. In the grand scheme of things, we felt it would be best to delay construction a few months to give all of our visitors the opportunity to see it." Attendance at the Museum since February has been up nearly 50% over the same time period in 2013. Many guests have expressed that while they came to see the sinkhole and damaged cars, they were pleasantly surprised by the rest of the facility and Corvette displays. "Driving up I-65, I saw the sign for the museum and decided to make a stop but had fairly low expectations given it was a roadside attraction. I was pleasantly surprised by the facility; it was very modern, well themed, professional staff, and it was much larger than I expected with a gift shop and restaurant," wrote Mark Byrn of Orlando, Florida in a Trip Advisor review. "Even more impressive was the fact that the museum suffered extensive damage from a sinkhole, and they turned a negative into a positive by making the sinkhole into an attraction of sorts and displayed the Corvettes that were heavily damaged. Overall I was very happy to have made the stop."

The Museum is awaiting price estimates on the various options to repair the Skydome, from keeping all of the sinkhole, to leaving just a small portion of it, to restoring the building to the way it was before. The Museum's board of directors is scheduled to review the proposals and options on both the building and the "Great 8" Corvettes, and make a decision on the plans moving forward. The Corvettes that are not restored will be kept on display in the Museum's Skydome, as part of preserving and telling the story of the February 12th sinkhole collapse. Given the recent boost in attendance, the Museum is expected to hit its 3 millionth visitor soon. As of the end of May, the Museum has recorded 2,995,655 visitors since its Grand Opening September 1994. The Museum is located at I-65, exit 28 in Bowling Green, just one hour north of Nashville, and less than two hours south of Louisville. Open daily, 8am-5pm CT. Access to view the sinkhole is included with regular admission. Guests who enter the Skydome to view the sinkhole must be age 8 or older. For more information on the Museum, visit their website at http://www.corvettemuseum.org or call 800-538-3883.

A corvette is removed from the sinkhole. Photo courtesy National Corvette Museum.

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Movie Making in Moab

ovie making has a tremendous history in Moab, Utah. Need for Speed produced by DreamWorks Pictures, was written based on a video game series of the same name. It was released in March 2014. A street racer races cross-country to avenge the death of a friend, who was killed by a rival racer. Among the 3D action are scenes of Moab’s interesting landscapes. Transformers: Age of Extinction, fourth in the Transformer series, stars Mark Wahlberg and is in theaters starting soon. These 2014 films follow productions by Disney, as recent as 2013’s release of The Lone Ranger and the 2010 release of John Carter. Hollywood’s love affair of Moab began in 1949 when Director John Ford filmed Wagon Master starring John Wayne. With its amazingly diverse terrain, producers found that Moab could take on the face of most any place on Earth and beyond. With hoodoos and arches and its red rock landscape, Moab was perfect for the filming of Spacehunter: Adventures in the Forbidden Zone, where Moab becomes the planet Terra XI and as the planet “Barsoom” in the Disney production of John Carter. The Colorado River has been portrayed as the Rio Grande River in another John Ford film in 1950, Rio Grande. In the Greatest Story Ever Told the Colorado River became the Nile. Arches National Park is the gorgeous backdrop for the start of the movie Raiders of the Lost Ark and many scenes for Thelma & Luoise. In fact, from Moab, visitors get two National Parks from a single destination, which is rare. Thelma & Louise was an American adventure buddy 48 • Byways

movie starring Geena Davis and Susan Sarandon, and Brad Pitt, in his first significant role in a major Hollywood film. The pair begin travel from Oklahoma with a desire to get to Mexico through Texas alluring viewers with the perceived size and freedom of America; although primary filming locations for the movie took place in rural areas around Bakersfield, California and Moab. The famous Grand Canyon scene was not the Grand Canyon but the Colorado River flowing through the canyons near

very same course as the entire half marathon and involves a river boat shuttle. The course somewhat parallels the Colorado River. Added this month to http://www.discovermoab.com/brochures.htm, visitors who request a Moab Vacation Guide can choose to receive more information about a myriad of running events held in Moab.

g n i n e p p a H s â&#x20AC;&#x2122; t a Wh

Dead Horse Point State Park, southwest of Moab. That spot is affectionately known locally as Thelma & Louise point now. A spin-off of the film is the Thelma & Louise Half Marathon, a race for women athletes only. Pairs register early to personalize the race bib to indicate Thelma or Louise. New this year is the half marathon race organizers added a 2 person team relay. The relay travels the

The early western movies helped Moab begin its journey to the great adventure destination it has become today and Hollywood continues to bring worldwide attention to the beautiful scenery of Canyonlands and Arches National Parks to which Moab is home. A copy of Moab Movie Auto Tour brochure can be found at http://www.discovermoab.com/pdf/movie.pdf. The Moab Area Travel Council is also available at 800635-6622 or at http://www.discovermoab.com.

Film Museum at Red Cliffs Ranch. The museum houses memorabilia from the early films to the present and is ever changing. movie and western ranching themes are present throughout the resort. The museum is self-guided and open to the public daily at no charge. Photo courtesy Red Cliffs Ranch. Byways â&#x20AC;˘ 49

Taking Model Railroading to New Heights for 50 Years

rowing up, Tom Groff had no idea he was destined to be a mayor. But now he's the selfappointed Mayor of Traintown, U.S.A.ÂŽ, a 1700 sq. ft. miniature wonderland of trains, buildings, moving cars, working people, a three-ring circus and carnival, and a whole lot of fun. "Being the Mayor gives me a lot of privileges. I can move people, give a family a new car, a house, a backyard, or change their landscaping on a whim," says Tom, designer, builder, and animator at the Choo Choo Barn in Strasburg, Lancaster County, PA. Groff has been building and modeling the gigantic model train display at the Choo Choo Barn for over 50 years. The layout actually started in the family's home in Strasburg when Tom's father, George, bought his first train in 1945. Their layout encompassed the basement and they would open it up to family, friends and groups around the Christmas holidays. When a college expense loomed, George again donned his thinking cap and found a building close to the famous Strasburg Rail Road. He opened the Choo Choo Barn on Thanksgiving Day in 1961. The rest is history. "Dad opened with 6 trains and 6 animated figures in 1961," adds Tom. "Ultimately, I turned the display into the finely detailed and scaled miniature wonderland that we have today." Groff notes that there is so much to see on his display that most people spend at least an hour taking in the detail. "The hit of our display is the fire scene! It's the show stopper, with smoke, fire (simulated, of course), sirens, a responding fire truck, moving firemen and real water." "As Mayor, I've tried to get the fire company to do a better job of dousing the fire, but it flares up 5 minutes

50 â&#x20AC;˘ Byways

later, like clockwork," Groff says with a grin. "Guess I'll have to add that to my next city council meeting and see what I can do!" New items are added to the display yearly which brings visitors back again and again. "The entire Choo Choo Barn display is cleaned over the winter. Every square inch is vacuumed and every vehicle and figure is dusted or washed. Many new details are added or changed because that's what adds to the 'WOW' factor of this one-of-a-kind exhibit. It's actually a work of art," says Mayor Groff. "I've taken model railroading to a whole new level. I like to say I'm expanding the artistry of model railroading. My real love is scratch-building. Whether it's buildings, animations or detailing scenery, I love to create new scenes for people to enjoy. It's really a never-ending process." At 64, Tom says his modeling abilities have only improved with age. And as Mayor, he has an entire landscape to govern. Let's hope he doesn't fix that fire "problem." We'd hate to miss it. Visit http://www.choochoobarn.com, http://www.youtube.com/thechoochoobarn

Byways is published bi-monthly by Byways, Inc. and distributed electronically throughout North America. Byways is emailed to more than 4000 tour operators plus selected travel agencies through the internet. Subscriptions are complimentary. An iPad & iPhone version is available for consumers in iTunes and Newsstand in the App Store. Byways’ distribution includes motorcoach companies, tour operators, and selected travel agents, bank travel managers, school band and athletic planners, and meeting planners. For advertising rates, editorial deadlines, or to place advertising insertions, contact: Byways Magazine, 42 Cabin Hill Lane, Mount Jackson, VA 22842. Telephone 540477-3202. Fax 540-477-3858. Toll-free 800-469-0062. ©Copyright 2014 by Byways, Inc. All rights reserved. No portion of this publication may be duplicated in any form without express written permission of the publisher. Editor and Publisher Stephen M. Kirchner

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