Byways Great American Roads 2015 by Byways, Inc.

Featuring North Americaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Leading Travel Destinations

Featuring Route 66, The National Road in Illinois, and Music Trails Through the South

Great American Roads 2015

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Byways Magazine

For more than 32 years, Byways has been covering the leading destinations along the highways and byways of North America. Some of the most well-known — and least known — destinations to discover in the United States and Canada.

Byways is published in two versions, a Turn-Key edition on the web for viewing on Computers, Android, iPhone and iPad. And a Apple Newsstand/App Store edition. All advertising, editorial and video is included in both versions of the publication. For advertising rates, editorial deadlines, or to place advertising insertions, contact: Byways Magazine 502-785-4875 http://bywaysmagazine.com

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elcome to the annual Great American Roads issue of Byways. Each year we focus on the highways and byways that make, or made, North America a great place to travel. In this issue, we include two roads which no longer exist, but played a key role in the transportation system of the United States. Route 66 was known as the Mother Road. It was a forever changing route from Chicago to Southern California that played an important role during three distint decades. This 2,448-mile, two-lane blacktop road transported Dust Bowl migrants to California during the 1930s, eager WWII GI’s and their war equipment in the 1940s, and swarms of tourists seeking to discover America during the 1950s. We focus on two segments of Route 66, in California and Arizonal, and in Oklahoma. The National Road is less well known, but played an equally significant role in the growth of the U.S. It is often called the road that built the nation. General George Washington had the idea to build the National Road, but it did not become a reality until President Thomas Jefferson passed the bill in 1806. We focus on one leg of the road, the 164-mile segment in the State of Illinois. Many a song has been written and sung along the back roads of America. So it is no surprise that travel, roads and music are intertwined in so many parts of the country. We focus on four regions that tie music and travel together. In Kentucky, Bill Graves joines up with Polly Judd to take us on a tour down Highway 23, Kentucky’s Country Music Highway. A who’s who of country stars got their start here, in addtion to the Judds. They include Loretta Lynn, Billy Ray Cyrus, Tom T. Hill, Ricky Skaggs, Keith Whitley, Dwight Yoakam, Gary Stewart, Patty Loveless, Crystal Gayle, to name a few! The new Americana Music Triangle is a preservation project along a 1,500-mile stretch of highway that birthed nine uniquely American genres of music -Blues, Jazz, Country, Rock & Roll, R&B/Soul, Gospel, Southern Gospel, Cajun/Zydeco and Bluegrass. 4 • Byways

PREVIEW

By Steve Kirchner, Editor & Publisher

Spanning more than 30 communities along the “Gold Record Road” (the Natchez Trace Parkway, I-10, Highway 90, Highway 61 and I-40), the Americana Music Triangle is a milestone collaboration of cultural attractions across the South. Five new driving tours have been created to take you throughout the region. West Virginia’s new Mountain Music Trail provides visitors the opportunity to experience local music and culture in historic venues, as well as at festivals celebrating the region’s heritage. The Trail consists of venues throughout five counties in eastern West Virginia that came together to promote and present the traditional music, dance, and folkways of the Allegheny Mountain region. The Crooked Road is Virginia’s Heritage Music Trail, a 330-mile driving route through the Appalachian Mountains of Southwest Virginia. It is an opportunity for travelers to experience over 200 years of the heritage and music in this beautiful mountainous region of Virginia. Next, we head north for an upstate New York Family Roadtrip. Jenifer Maxwell takes us on a journey to Rochester, where we visit the National Museum of Play to meet Big Bird, and take an excursion on the Erie Canel. Jennifer returns with a second story, featuring the fabulous Saguenay Lac Saint-Jean, the Land of Giants in the province of Quebec. It’s not just the vast glaciallysculpted landscapes and the deep fjord edged with 350m-high cliffs, but also the region’s personality. A strong sense of place exists here, and you can see and feel it in the area’s culture, history and people. In What’s Happening, we return to New York State to visit the Glenn Curtiss Aviation Museum. Often called one of the hidden gems of aviation history, it has reached a new milestone as visitors from around the world make their way to Hammondsport, N.Y. The final stop is the American Music Theatre in Lancaster, PA. A new, original show is on tap, Crooners -- those suave gentlemen and sophisticated ladies who defined musical cool with their smooth, sentimental singing styles. We hope you enjoy this issue of Byways.

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Volume 32, Issue No. 5 2015

Features

On the cover. The Wayne Henderson Festival along the Crooked Road Music Trail in Virginia. Photo courtesy Jonathan Romeo for The Crooked Road. See story page 30. Byways Great American Roads coverage begins on page 8.

Great American Roads 2015. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 U.S. Route 66 in California & Arizona . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 Route 66 in Oklahoma, The Ultimate Road Trip. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 Historic National Road of Illinois, A Journey of Past & Present . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 Kentucky’s Country Music Highway . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 Americana Music Triangle Launched . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 West Virginia’s Mountain Music Trail. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 Virginia’s 330-Mile Crooked Road Music Trail . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 New York Family Roadtrip: First Stop Rochester . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36 Canada Quebec’s Saguenay Lac Saint-Jean: Visiting the Region of Giants . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42

Departments

Byways Instant Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 Byways Preview. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 Traveling the Highways & Byways, with Bill Graves. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 Advertisers Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53 Free Byways Subscription . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54

What’s Happening

Glenn H. Curtiss Museum, Gem of Aviation History, Reaches New Milestone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 American Music Theatre Original Crooners . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52

Coming in future issues of Byways ..... The Leading North American Tour Destinations, Great American Railroads, Mountains & Valleys, and much more!

Next Up: North America’s Top Tour Destinations. At right, The Grand Ole Opry. Nashville always ranks near the top of this annual list chosen by tour operators throughout North America.

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Great American Roads 2015 This stretch of old U.S. Route 66 near Oatman, Arizona, through the Black Mountains, was fraught with hairpin turns and was the steepest along the entire 2,448 mile route. Some early travellers, too frightened at the prospect of driving such a potentially dangerous road, hired locals to navigate the winding grade.

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U.S. Route 66 in California & Arizona

fficially, U.S. Route 66 is a part of a former United States Numbered Highway in the state of California that ran from the east in Santa Monica on the Pacific Ocean through Los Angeles and San Bernardino to Needles at the Arizona state line. U.S. 66 was assigned by the American Association of State Highway Officials in November 1926 and signed

in 1928 by the Automobile Club of Southern California. Unofficially, U.S. Route 66 became known as the Mother Road, not just any

Roy’s Motel and Café on Route 66 was once the largest roadside business in the desert town of Amboy, California. When I-40 opened, it became a ghost town.

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road, but a forever changing, wideopen road that can take you on the ultimate road trip from Los Angeles to Chicago. Today, you can still discover the history, romance and pop culture of Route 66. Even though it officially ceased to exist 30 years ago! No road has been written about

more, transformed into song, turned into a television series (Route 66) and movie (Cars) than Route 66. And no wonder. This 2,448-mile, two-lane blacktop road transported Dust Bowl migrants to Santa Monical was California during the 1930s, eager WWII GI’s in the1940s, and swarms of tourists the end - or beginseeking to discover America during the ning - of Route 66. Photo courtesy 1950s. Nationally, Route 66 has been a decom- Mateusz Kudla. missioned highway since 1985, with the last section through Williams, Arizona, bypassed by I-40 in 1984. The first efforts to return the route to maps as “Historic Route 66” date to 1987 and Angel Delgadillo’s Arizona Historic Route 66 Association. This initiative was soon followed in all eight U.S. Route 66 states, including California. The California Historic Route 66 Association, established in December 1990 to advocate the preservation, restoration and promotion Boulevard. From San Bernardino to the Arizona state of historic Route 66 in California, is the youngest of the line U.S. 66 followed the old National Old Trails eight state-level Route 66 Associations. They joined Highway. U.S. 66 was all paved in California by 1935. Illinois, Missouri, Kansas, Oklahoma, Texas, New U.S. 66 originally exited San Bernardino on Mount Mexico, Arizona in recognizing the historical signifi- Vernon Avenue and Cajon Boulevard, which meandered its way up to Cajon Pass. cance of the highway. U.S. 66 originally followed 7th Street and D Street Starting in Santa Monica, California, U.S. 66 originally started at the southwest end of Santa Monica through Victorville then the National Old Trails

Delgadillo’s Snow Cap Drive-In on former U.S. Route 66, Seligman, Arizona.

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The Trails Arch Bridge carried Route 66 across the Colorado River connecting Topock, Arizona and nearby Needles, California. The bridge was built in 1916. Photo courtesy Thad Roan.

Highway through Barstow, California (where it took on U.S. Route 66 covered 401 the name “Main Street”) and across the Mojave Desert to miles in Arizona. The highNeedles, then crossed the Colorado River into Arizona way ran from west to east, on the Trails Arch Bridge. starting in Needles,

One of two Wigwam Motels along Route 66, the Wigwam Holbrook, Arizona. Photo courtesy Raleigh Muns.

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California, through Kingman and Seligman to the New Mexico state line as part of the historic U.S. 66 from Santa Monica, California, to Chicago, Illinois. Between the California state line and Kingman, the original alignment is now known as Oatman Road and passed through the old mining town of Oatman, now a ghost town due to mine closures.

One section just outside Oatman, Arizona, through the Black Mountains, was fraught with hairpin turns and was the steepest along the entire route, so much so that some early travellers, too frightened at the prospect of driving such a potentially dangerous road, hired locals to navigate the winding grade. The section remained as Route 66 until 1953, and is still open to traffic today as

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the Oatman Highway. Seligman is the birthplace of the first route 66 association, established by local barber Angel Delgadillo in 1987. This group obtained the first “Historic Route 66” designation, which the state initially placed on the segment of U.S. 66 between Kingman and Seligman. From Seligman to east of Flagstaff, the area is mountainous (not desert) and covered with pine forests. The old section through Flagstaff itself is officially named “Route 66”. Shortly before joining I-40 east of Flagstaff, U.S. 66 passes through Winona, a small unincorporated community made famous in the song “(Get Your Kicks on) Route 66”. The Meteor Crater is south of old U.S. 66 near Winslow. The Homolovi State Park near Winslow preserves over 300 Ancestral Puebloan archaeological sites. At Joseph City is the Jack Rabbit Trading Post, which

once posted signs up and down the highway for hundreds of miles, and at Holbrook is the Wigwam Village Motel, a motor court built to resemble a group of teepees. Two of the three surviving Wigwam motels are located on historic U.S. Route 66: in Holbrook, Arizona, and on the city boundary between Rialto and San Bernardino, California. All three of the surviving motels are listed on the National Register of Historic Places The Petrified Forest National Park is located east of Holbrook. About sixty miles before reaching New Mexico, the highway originally passed through the Painted Desert, though this section is now closed. Approximately 80 percent of the orginal Route 66 survives today, and most of the communities which served the road still exist. So getting your kicks on Route 66 is as feasible today as it was in the 1920s. Not bad for a road that ceased to exist 30 years ago!

Old Route 66 in Oatman, Arizona. The mining town is now a ghost town due to mine closures, and mules roam its streets.

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Built in 1898, Arcadia’s Round Barn had a presence many years before Route 66 was even constructed. Photo courtesy CJP Grey. (http://www.cgpgrey.com).

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Route 66 in Oklahoma, The Ultimate Road Trip

et your kicks on more than 400 miles of Route 66 in Oklahoma. The nation’s longest driveable stretch of Route 66 cuts through Oklahoma, making its way past charming towns, roadside diners and quirky attractions. Experience Oklahoma City, Tulsa and authentic hometowns along the Mother Road where you’ll meet friendly people and find unique shopping and dining opportunities. More than 120 historic signs provide plenty of insight into the old road and the many lives, people, and places it touched. Oklahoma has played a huge part in that history, being centrally located along the route and holding the country’s longest section of Route 66. Whether you’re more interested in Route 66’s past or the many quaint attractions lining the highway, here are some places you won’t want to miss along the way!

Oklahoma Route 66 Museum - Clinton The Oklahoma Route 66 Museum in Clinton pays homage to the history of transportation and Route 66 in Oklahoma. See why the highway had such an impact on American culture and the hearts of people all over the world. The neon “Route 66” sign on the museum and a classic car in the window give visitors a taste of what they’ll see inside: pure Americana. As you walk in, check out the “world’s largest curio cabinet,” a unique 16 • Byways

collection of items found on Route 66 throughout the years. Follow the timeline of Route 66 and explore exhibits showcasing the history of the highway in each decade since its inception, starting with the route’s initial construction in the 1920s. Artifacts, signs, vehicles and memorabilia have survived to tell the story of the highway’s golden years, its eventual decline and the nostalgia that surrounds Route 66 today.

Lucille’s Service Station & Roadhouse Hydro & Weatherford During the bustling beginnings of Route 66, service stations popped up along the road to accommodate the needs of travelers. Built in 1929 in Hydro, Lucille’s Service Station is one of only two service stations of its kind left on Oklahoma’s stretch of Route 66. While no longer in business, Lucille’s is a tribute to a bygone era, restored to its original condition. A historical marker at the site tells the story of the service station and its namesake, Lucille Hamons, who ran the business for over 50 years. Long gone are the attendants to pump gas, but the vintage pumps are still there. Remember or imagine the days when friendly service could be found up and down America’s highway. Inspired by Lucille’s Service Station, a restaurant in Weatherford recreates the look of the service station, down to the vintage gas pumps in front. Lucille’s Roadhouse takes visitors back to the hoppin’ 1950s, with a diner-style restaurant and Route 66 memorabilia.

From juicy cheeseburgers to gravy-covered chicken fried steak, the menu is overflowing with good ol’ American favorites. Play classic tunes on the jukebox while you wait for a Western hamburger steak or fried catfish. To sample savory steaks and delicious house specialties, make your way upstairs to the steakhouse.

National Route 66 & Transportation Museum - Elk City Visit the National Route 66 & Transportation Museum in Elk City to take a journey through each of the eight states Route 66 passes through -- from Illinois all the way to California. See quirky roadside attractions that lured people to stop, and get a feel for the experience of traveling down Route 66. Walk through displays of antique cars and historical documents detailing the narrative of America’s highway. The National Route 66 & Transportation Museum invites both children and adults to experience automobiles of the past with interactive and hands-on displays. “Drive” down Route 66 in a 1955 pink Cadillac and watch a black and white movie at a mock drive-in theater while sitting in a classic Chevy Impala. The museum is part of the Old Town Museum Complex, complete with displays and artifacts that give a glimpse into the lives of early settlers in Western Oklahoma, as well as the Farm and Ranch Museum, celebrating Oklahoma’s agricultural heritage. Coleman Theatre - Miami Built at the end of the roaring 1920s, the Coleman Theatre along Route 66 in Miami defines the era. In the age of vaudeville and silent films, the Coleman was an entertainment destination for all ages. Today, the theatre hosts concerts, plays and even silent films again. Designed in Spanish Mission Revival style, the beautiful building invites visitors to step inside and be transported back in time. Visit the magnificent theatre for a glimpse into the past, and marvel at the incredible interior. The opulent Louis IV decor boasts an elegant carved mahogany staircase, stained glass panels, gold leaf trim and crystal chandeliers. Also, restored to its grandeur, the original 1929 “Mighty Wurlitzer” pipe organ makes music once again in the theatre.

The 1939 sandstone Rock Café contains a large collection of both local memorabilia and souvenirs from Pixar’s research of US 66 for the animated film Cars. Proprietor Dawn Welch is the model on which Sally Carrera, the Radiator Springs hotelier who fights to rebuild and restore the town, is based.

fruity soda, POPS is sure to have what you like. Make your way to the old-fashioned diner inside POPS for a tasty snack or meal. Try a hand-dipped milkshake with a burger or BLT, or go big with a chicken fried steak. Then it’s back on the road for more adventure.

Totem Pole Park - Foyil Stop by Totem Pole Park near Foyil to see the world’s largest concrete totem pole, located right off Route 66. Totem Pole Park, a quirky and popular roadside stop along the Mother Road, was started by Ed Galloway in 1937 as a tribute to the American Indian. He designed and created the giant, colorful totem pole, standing tall at 90 feet and featuring various bas-relief depictions of aniPOPS - Arcadia No trip down Route 66 is complete without a stop at mals and native people. See a number of similar totems, POPS in Arcadia. One of the more recent additions on a smaller scale, littered around the park. Take a walk along the highway, POPS is now a part of the roadside around the park, then visit the eleven-sided Fiddle landscape and is a truly unique destination. The sleek, House, also designed by Galloway. The Fiddle House ultra-modern architecture of the building is only over- contains a number of ornate fiddles, hand-carved by shadowed by an iconic 66-foot tall pop bottle sculpture Galloway himself. sitting out front. Visit POPS at night to watch the sculpture’s LED lights fill the sky with changing color. At Round Barn - Arcadia Built in 1898, Arcadia’s Round Barn had a presence POPS you can fill up your gas tank, admire the collecmany years before Route 66 was even constructed. The tion of over 12,000 soda pop bottles, then browse over only wooden round barn left in Oklahoma, the structure 650 different kinds of ice-cold soda. Find your favorite originally housed livestock and hay, and doubled as a refreshing treat; whether it’s a traditional cola or a sweet Byways • 17

The Big Blue Whale in Catoosa, Oklahoma is still one of the most famous stops on Route 66. Photo courtesy Carol M. Highsmith.

community center where dances were held. While the by the WPA in the ‘30s, the Interpretive Center offers a Round Barn has been a long-time Route 66 landmark, it fresh spin on the Route 66 story. Using visuals and fell into disrepair in the 1970s and 1980s. After the roof sound, a sensory experience is created for each visitor. collapsed in 1988, the Oklahoma Historical Society Sit back and watch firsthand videos chronicling Route acquired the property and volunteers banded together to 66. Learn about attractions lost through the years, experepair the roof and restore the entire structure. Today, the rience lodging as it used to be, and hop in the driver’s Round Barn is home to exhibits of Route 66 memorabil- seat (literally) to take a virtual “ride” down Route 66. ia and a gift shop. See this over 100 year-old architecturally stunning barn for yourself, and tour the structure Waylan’s Ku-Ku Burger - Miami On your way through Miami, whether you want a sitfor an unforgettable look inside. down meal or prefer drive-thru, Waylan’s Ku-Ku Burger Seaba Station Motorcycle Museum - Warwick on Route 66 is sure to cure your food cravings. This Step inside the Seaba Station Motorcycle Museum in unique place can’t be missed. The building resembles a Warwick for a motorcycle lover’s dream. Seaba Station cuckoo clock, right down to the giant yellow cuckoo bird was built in 1921 as a full-service gas station. Later, the popping out of the roof and this little fast food restaurant building served as an engine rebuilding shop and antique has become a steadfast Route 66 icon. Waylan’s Ku-Ku shop before being renovated and converted into a muse- Burger has been a Miami staple since the ‘60s, when it um for vintage and modern motorcycles. Visit the muse- was one location of a national chain. Now it’s the only um to view over 65 motorcycles dating from 1908 to Waylan’s left, and people keep coming back for the delipresent. Admire the streamlined designs, and see how cious hamburgers, ku-ku fries, tator tots, fried pickles, buffalo burgers, chili dogs and so much more. Don’t forthe bikes evolved over time. get about dessert: a dip cone, sundae or malt will satisfy Chandler Route 66 Interpretive Center any sweet tooth Chandler . For an interactive take on the history of Route 66, look Blue Whale - Catoosa What’s big, blue, wears a baseball cap and has a great no further than the Route 66 Interpretive Center in Chandler. Housed inside a native sandstone armory built smile? Put on the brakes for the one and only Blue 18 • Byways

Route 66 Vintage Iron Motorcycle Museum Miami See an amazing collection of more than 40 antique motorcycles at Route 66 Vintage Iron in Miami. This is a must-stop destination for motorcycle fans, and if you’re not one yet, you might be converted here. Stroll through an array of motorcycles, including classics like a 1917 Harley Davidson and a very rare 1919 GCS. Admire the wall of vintage helmets, then visit the gift shop for a souvenir or motorcycle accessories. Route 66 Vintage Iron also showcases Evel Knievel memorabilia, such as his jump helmet, personal items and a set of his x-rays.

Whale of Catoosa. The Blue Whale was constructed in the early ‘70s as an anniversary gift and became a local swimming hole attraction. Today visitors are invited to stop by and say, “Hello!” to the jovial cement mammal. Enjoy lunch on the picnic tables and marvel at the novelty of a landlocked whale in northeastern Oklahoma. Make sure to take plenty of pictures of this unusual roadside attraction along Route 66.

JM Davis Arms & Historical Museum Claremore Explore a world of amazing collections at the renowned J.M. Davis Arms & Historical Museum. This museum, located in Claremore just off Route 66, holds an extensive arsenal of firearms whose origins span the globe and the centuries, including guns used by notorious criminals like Pretty Boy Floyd and Pancho Villa. In addition to this fascinating collection, there are thousands of other interesting items on display. WWI posters, vintage campaign ribbons, antique saddles, Western memorabilia and other artifacts give a fascinating look into America’s past.

Will Rogers Memorial Museum - Claremore View the inspiring life of Oklahoma statesman Will Rogers on display at the Will Rogers Memorial Museum in Claremore. Exhibits of art, documents and artifacts in the museum detail Rogers’ life as a trick roper, actor and writer, among other things. Watch movies featuring the entertainer in the on-site theater; his films are played there all day, every day. Rare original posters from his films cover the walls of the museum. Rogers’ tomb is located on the museum grounds, with his signature quote carved there: “I never met a man I didn’t like.” Immerse yourself in the life of Will Rogers and find out why he was an important figure, not only in Oklahoma, but across the nation and around the globe. Afton Station - Afton A restored 1930s full-service gas station in Afton pays homage to the history of Route 66. Swing by Afton Station to purchase maps and books for your Route 66 drive. See iconic Route 66 signs and picture postcards showing the landscape along the highway as it used to be. Be transported back to the highway’s heyday in the gleaming chrome, shiny paint and timeless designs of the many classic cars on display, including a fantastic collection of Packards.

Roger Miller Museum - Erick One of country music’s most influential artists is honored at the Roger Miller Museum in Erick. The museum, located along Route 66 in downtown Erick, gives visitors a firsthand look into the life of Roger Miller. Miller grew up in Erick and was one of the most celebrated musicians of his time. Many of Miller’s personal items are on display, including his army shirt, high school FFA jacket and childhood photos. Artifacts from his career in music are also on display; handwritten lyrics, stage clothing, gold records and awards tell the story of his successful career. Browse more on Route 66 attractions and road trip ideas in Oklahoma, click here. Byways • 19

Colinsville, at the west end of the National Road in Illinois, is home to the Worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Largest Catsup Bottle!

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Historic National Road of Illinois: a Journey of Past and Present By Molly J. Bellamey and Kevin Limestall

s Charles Kuralt tagged US 40 “The road that built the nation”, the National Road has been a main thoroughfare for people and goods since it’s conception. General George Washington had the idea to build the National Road, but it did not become a reality until President Thomas Jefferson passed the bill in 1806. Construction on the “Road” began in Cumberland, Maryland in 1811 and reached Illinois around 1830. Constructed to be the security against European control, the National Road is now the infrastructure that carries thousands of people daily for business and pleasure. The 164 mile Historic National Road of Illinois was designated a National Scenic Byway in 2000 and was named An All American Road in 2002, the only Byway in Illinois to achieved that honor. If your interest is in record breaking “big” things, you will find plenty to delight you on the “Road”. In Martinsville You will find the World’s Largest Racing Horseshoe, built in memory of Dale Baird, renowned thoroughbred horse trainer with 9,445 wins to his name. Casey is known as “Big Things in a Small Town”, with the World’s Largest Wind Chimes. New “Big” things are erected regularly

including Golf Tee, Knitting Needles, Crochet Hook, Pencil, and Rocking Chair. Collinsville at the west end of the National Road is home to the World’s Largest Catsup Bottle. Lincoln comes alive along the Historic National Road of Illinois. Marshall, on the Eastern end of Illinois boost the State’s Oldest Hotel. As a circuit riding lawyer, Lincoln stayed in the Archer House when in town. Greenup is the site for a Covered Bridge that as a young man of 22, Abraham Lincoln split the logs for the original bridge to be built. Thomas Lincoln, Abraham’s

Above right: Archer House, Marshall, IL. Below: World’s Largest Wind Chimes, Casey, IL.

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The National Road Interpretive Center in Vandalia, IL provides information, displays, and photos detailing the history of the National Road.

father, owned a farm just 11 miles north of the bridge. Vandalia, Illinois’ former capitol, was where Lincoln learned all about politics, the law, and the Underground Railroad. Car enthusiast will enjoy the Corvette and Volkswagen collection of Mike Yeager’s MY Garage Museum. For older cars, visit the Gateway Classic Cars and Museum with its 105,000 square foot showroom in Fairmont City. Relive history with all the museums and oneroom schools houses lining the National Road. If bridges are your thing, you can find a stone arch bridge that is 185 years old still used by over a thousand people every day and a covered bridge that is the longest, single-span covered bridge that has no weight limit. Cahokia Mounds, six miles west of the Mississippi River is Illinois’ only World Heritage Site and location of the largest prehistoric mounds north of Mexico. A tour of the Mounds and Interpretive Center will reflect the lives of our Native Americans. 22 • Byways

Foot high pie at Blue Springs Café in Highland, IL.

21 Kiosks along the National Road in Illinois provide historical information about the road and a bit of local history.

The Cahokia Mounds, six miles west of the Mississippi River, is Illinois’ only World Heritage Site. It is the location of the largest prehistoric mounds north of Mexico.

Take a break from your journey in one of our nationAssociation of Illinois, Molly ally recognized restaurants. Miles away from town, the is the author of Patch On The Moonshine Store of Martinsville, is a favorite stop for National Road. tourists. Two employees are famous for making 3251 Kevin Limestall, Board Moon burgers in 7 hours. The rustic setting is the place President, has led the all-volto step back in time. unteer National Road Casey’s Whitling Whimsy, a quaint eatery next to the Association of Illinois for the World’s Largest Wind Chime. Effingham’s World last several years as it has faced a number of challenges Renowned Firefly Grill is the Organic option along the along the 164 mile National Road Heritage Corridor, Historic National Road of Illinois. For pie that is a foot high, you will want to stop at the Blue Springs Café in Highland. Finish off your evening with a glass of wine from Cameo Winery, Tuscan Hills Winery, or the o Copper Dock Winery. r Vide o f k As you travel along the “Historic Clic National Road” here in Illinois, be sure and check out the twenty one recently installed wayside Kiosks located along the “Road”. They provide historical information about the National Road in Illinois and a bit of local history. Make sure to watch our YouTube videos at Illinois National Road. When planning your trip to Illinois’ National Several of the 164 destinations you can find as you travel the Road, visit www.NationalRoad.org, like Historic National Road in Illinois!. us on Facebook, or phone 888-268-0042. About the Authors: Molly Bellamey, a life-long resident of Illinois, is a Board Member of the National Road

Like us on FaceBook! www.nationalroad.org

National Road Association of Illinois

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Traveling the Highways & Byways with Bill Graves

KENTUCKY’S COUNTRY MUSIC HIGHWAY

olly Judd was showing me around the Highlands Museum and Discovery Center. She stopped at a model of a large tugboat, the kind that moves mega-ton barges up and down the Ohio and Mississippi Rivers. “I used to cook on a boat like this, lived on it, actually” she said. “I had as many as 15 to cook for. I was the only woman. They treated me well… nobody wanted to make the cook mad.” Polly is in her eighties. She lives nearby. She is not normally at the museum. I was with some folks who knew her and they called ahead. She was there to greet us. This is Ashland, just north of I-64 in eastern Kentucky. It’s one of the biggest ports on the Ohio River, shipping a lot of coal. For a town of 24,000, it has a large number of native notables, three from one family and most in the country music business. In fact, that’s what brought me here. I am touring Kentucky’s “Country Music Highway,” Highway 23 that runs through the Appalachian hills on the eastern edge of the state. A big space in this museum is devoted to Polly’s daughter, Naomi Judd and her two granddaughters Wynonna and Ashley. Naomi was born here in 1946. She was married and had Wynonna before she graduated from high school. Naomi’s second daughter, Ashley, was born later when they lived for a short time in California. “We always had a piano in the house,” Polly said, “but Wynonna took to a guitar that Naomi gave her. Times were tough then. Tempers and money were short, but there was always beautiful harmony in their music. In 1979 they went to Nashville and the next thing ya know, I’m seeing them on television. I was very proud…still am.” Throughout the 1980s, it looked like there was no end to the success of the singing 24 • Byways

duo. But in 1990, Naomi was diagnosed with Hepatitis C. After eight years at the top, she had no choice but to retire. The Judds had a Farewell Tour across the country in 1991 that was the top grossing concert act of that year.

Ashley has had a successful career in acting and is perhaps best known for her leading roles in the films Kiss the Girls, Double Jeopardy and High Crimes. “When ‘Wy’ and Ashley come home, they raid the drawer with the junk food and go up in the attic to check

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Polly and the Judds. Photo courtesy Bill Graves.

on their toys,” Polly said. “Naomi, on the other hand, likes to walk through the neighborhood where she grew up. Their roots are definitely here.” Eastern Kentucky is steeped in musical history. The musical talent that has developed in the hills south of here includes Loretta Lynn, Billy Ray Cyrus, Tom T. Hill, Ricky Skaggs, Keith Whitley, Dwight Yoakam, Gary Stewart, Patty Loveless, Crystal Gayle and more. There are music venues all along Highway 23, 144 miles of it. In Ashland, it’s the Paramount Arts Center

with its 1400-seat theater. The Paramount is one of those grand movie theaters built in the early thirties. Gone with the Wind was so popular here seating was by reservation. The focus of these venues is on the country and bluegrass stars of the future. At the Paramount, I was able to see a young singer named Stephen Saylers. Stephen is good. But will he hit it big like the Judds? Who knows? But coming from eastern Kentucky is a good start.

The U.S. 23 Country Music Highway Museum in Paintsville is dedicated to the country musicians who grew up near U.S. 23 in Kentucky.

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Americana Music Triangle Launched

usic fans worldwide have a new tourism destination with the launch of the Americana Music Triangle, a preservation project along a 1,500mile stretch of highway that birthed nine uniquely American genres of music -- Blues, Jazz, Country, Rock & Roll, R&B/Soul, Gospel, Southern Gospel, Cajun/Zydeco and Bluegrass. Spanning more than 30 communities along the “Gold Record Road” (the Natchez Trace Parkway, I-10, Highway 90, Highway 61 and I-40), the Americana Music Triangle is a milestone collaboration of cultural attractions across the South. The ambitious project marks the culmination of more than three years of work by a multi-state team of historians, musicians, tourism professionals and digital media experts. The mission: Launch a global grassroots movement 28 • Byways

for American music tourism and build an online community dedicated to the Triangle’s culture and history. An online “webguide” establishes the Triangle’s digital footprint. Social media channels will educate and inspire a global audience with an online marketing campaign. Collateral materials and merchandise will be distributed in partnership with state and local tourism agencies across the region. There are five driving tours to experience the Americana Music Trail: • New Orleans to Natchez • Vicksburg to Memphis • Memphis to Nashville • Nashville to Muscle Shoals • Tupelo to New Orleans

Each of the driving tours is described in great detail at people of our state and the surrounding region. We not the Americana Music Triangle’s website at: only have marked music trails telling of musical legends, http://americanamusictriangle.com their influences, and the history of area that gave birth to the blues, but we also make sure music remains a large Aubrey Preston, a proprietor of Nashville’s RCA part of our culture. We are so happy to have AMT’s assisStudio A and founder of the Americana Music Triangle, tance guiding people as they experience the rich said the project is an outgrowth of hundreds of conver- American music story.” sations over the past four years. So now you can follow the Gold Record Road through “With focused online outreach, we can reach countless the Americana Music Triangle, the first-ever compremusic fans worldwide and motivate them to visit the hensive collection of historical, musical and cultural Americana Music Triangle,” Preston said. attractions that define the birthplace of the country’s “The Triangle is a unique destination where history greatest cultural export. Pick a route, pack a bag, and made music, then music made history. There’s no other experience the very places where history made music, place like it in the world.” then music made history. “This is a landmark preservation and community-linking movement aimed to erase borders and celebrate the music that has shaped this country and our culture,” said Ellie Westman Chin, president and CEO of the Williamson County Convention and Visitors Bureau. “International travel is a fast-growing market. Through this project, we now have the tools necessary to work together, across states, to share a comprehensive story with a global audience.” “Mississippi is the heart of the Americana Music Triangle, so the launch of the AMT web guide is a very exciting event for us,” said Malcolm White, director of Visit Mississippi. “Our country’s musical tradition was shaped and molded by the talented Birthplace of Elvis Presley, Tupelo, MS.

Tina Turner Museum on the grounds of the West Tennessee Delta Heritage Center, Brownsville, TN. Turner has sold more concert tickets than any other solo performer in history.

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The Augusta Heritage Center. Photos courtesy Randolph County Convention & Visitors Bureau.

West Virginia’s Mountain Music Trail

est Virginia’s Mountain Music Trail provides visitors the opportunity to experience local music and culture in historic venues, as well as at festivals celebrating the region’s heritage. The Mountain Music Trail consists of venues throughout five counties in eastern West Virginia that came together to promote and present the traditional music, dance, and folkways of the Allegheny Mountain region. Several months ago, the West Virginia Public Broadcasting production team took to the road to capture the essence of the trail, which runs through Tucker, Randolph, Pocahontas, Greenbrier and Monroe counties. West Virginia Commissioner of Tourism Amy Shuler Goodwin said, “The musical community in West Virginia has always been a very vibrant and active part of the Mountain State’s heritage and we are excited to be able to share their stories with the world.” “I am so pleased to see the Mountain Music experience come to life in five counties along Route 219. There are so many talented musicians in our 30 • Byways

area and by creating a destination trail this only adds more for us to offer visitors and residents,” Brenda Pritt, Executive Director of the Randolph County CVB said. “Randolph County certainly has an advantage when it comes to tourism -- with heritage, arts culture, history, theaters, trains and now the Mountain Music Trail featuring songs and stories from wonderful musicians.” “The Augusta Heritage Center is one of many organizations doing an incredible job of preserving and teachPickin’ in the Park

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ing the many traditions found along the Mountain Music Trail,” Vasilia Scouras, Associate Producer of Mountain Stage said. "Performances by the Davis & Elkins Appalachian Ensemble are a perfect example of passing down tradition while keeping it fresh and relevant for a growing audience.” “The Mountain Music Trail is revealing West Virginia as a destination for live music. Traveling 219, you will find endless places to stop and catch a live show, such as

Jamming at the Augusta Heritage Center.

Mountain State Brewing Company. Not only are they one of the largest breweries in the state but they also pride themselves in being a music destination,” Jessica Scowcroft, Executive Director of the Tucker County CVB said. The Mountain Music Trail is a great partnership, with five counties and Wild, Wonderful West Virginia working together to promote all of the wonderful music you can experience just by traveling 219.

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Floyd Country Store, home of the Friday Night Jamboree. Photo courtesy Floyd Country Store.

Virginia’s 330-Mile Crooked Road Music Trail

he Crooked Road is Virginia’s Heritage Music Trail, a 330-mile driving route through the Appalachian Mountains of Southwest Virginia. From the eastern slopes of the Blue Ridge to the Coalfield region of Virginia, the trail connects eight major heritage music venues with a thriving network of jams, festivals, and concerts in the communities along the way. America’s music was invented here. It has been made for hundreds of years in the southern Appalachian mountain region of Southwest Virginia. The songs and tunes of the region told the stories of early pioneer life, of immigrant experiences, and of day-to-day trials and tribulations. The influences which are felt in the music come from many traditions. The ballads of the early Scots-Irish and settlers of the British Isles are evident, as are their instruments, such as the fiddle. The blues and work songs of laborers of African heritage are also evident, along with instruments such as the banjo. The mountain dulcimer and the autoharp have connections to the zithers of European ancestry, while the ukulele and the guitar were popular parlor instruments. 32 • Byways

Major Venues of The Crooked Road On the eastern end of The Crooked Road, hugging the eastern slopes of the Blue Ridge Mountains, is the official State Center for Blue Ridge Folklife: the Blue Ridge Institute & Museum at Ferrum College. The BRI galleries explore folklife’s many facets -- music, crafts, foodways, decorative arts and more -- through rotating exhibitions. Heading westward along The Crooked Road, you will travel to Floyd, VA, home of the Floyd Country Store and the Friday Night Jamboree. Visitors will find barrels of old-fashioned candy, a lunch counter with homemade country food and hand-dipped ice cream, and fascinating finds from toys to overalls to kitchenware. floydcountrystore.com Near Galax, VA, in Grayson and Carroll Counties is the Blue Ridge Music Center, located on the scenic Blue Ridge Parkway at Milepost 213. Some of the most respected pickers and singers in the country perform at the weekend concerts. Every day from late May until October’s leafs fall you can hear favorite regional musi-

cians playing Mid-Day Mountain Music and you can visit The Roots of American Music museum that is free and open daily. BlueRidgeMusicCenter.org.

Just down the road in Galax, you’ll find the Rex Theater, home to rousing bluegrass and old time musical performances every Friday night on the Blue Ridge Backroads broadcast on WBRF, reaching five states. Galax is also the home of Moose Lodge #733 and the Old Fiddlers Convention, the oldest and largest such convention in the world. Crooked Road Wayside Kiosk at Grayson Highlands State The area’s rich musical heritage has earned Galax its status as the Park. Photo courtesy Jonathan Romeo for The Crooked Road. “World's Capital of Old Time Mountain Music.” Ralph Peer’s historic recording sessions of 1927 -- The Driving west out of Galax on Highway 58 you’ll arrive Big Bang of Country Music. Bristol’s music continues at the architecturally stunning Heartwood, Southwest most nights in restaurants and clubs along State Street Virginia’s Artisan Gateway and home of The Crooked and swells to fill the city during the Rhythm and Roots Road, in Abingdon, VA. Heartwood connects visitors Reunion in September, when three days of concerts, along The Crooked Road to regional artisan studios, jams and performances bring thousands of music lovers music venues, craft trails, scenic attractions, and more. to more than 20 stages up and down Bristol’s main street. heartwoodvirginia.org Just north of Bristol in Hiltons is The Carter Family Fold, where live traditional music and dancing has taken A few miles south is the official “Birthplace of place every Saturday night since 1974. The Carter Fold Country Music,” Bristol, VA/TN. Bristol is home to the is a rustic, 800-plus seat music shed offering traditional Birthplace of County Music Alliance, where country music every Saturday night. Museum opens an hour primusic devotees continue a tradition that began with or to the show.

Wayne Henderson & Friends at the Carter Family Fold. Photo courtesy Jonathan Romeo for The Crooked Road.

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o ide V for k c Cli The Carter Family (A.P. Carter, his wife Sara and his sister-in-law Maybelle) were discovered in 1927 by Victor Recording Studio in Bristol and recorded 300 songs between 1927 and 1942. Playing traditional Appalachian music, the family is often credited as forerunners of modern-day country music. http://www.carterfamilyfold.org

Navigating The Trail The Crooked Road route is identified by highway signs designating the route. Wayside exhibits dot the communities along the Trail, offering travelers a fun way to learn about local music, history, and heritage. Travelers simply drive up to any Crooked Road wayside exhibit and tune their car radios to the frequency that’'s posted on the kiosk. Then, they’ll be treated to a sampling of local music, along with highlights of the area’s musicians and heritage music attractions. Joe Wilson's A Guide to The Crooked Road offers an in-depth look at the venues, partners, and culture of The Crooked Road region. The book features a two-CD companion guide with music from all along the Trail. Purchase it online at The Crooked Road’s official website, or pick up a copy in one of your stops along the Trail.

As U.S. 23 passes through the communities of Scott and Wise Counties, you’ll make your way to the Country Cabin, located at the Appalachian Traditions village outside Norton. The Crooked Road’s western end boasts the Ralph Stanley Museum and Traditional Mountain Music Center in Clintwood, VA. It features the life and music of the legendary music performer. Dr. Stanley donated an extensive collection of memorabilia, ranging from vintage instruments to countless musical awards to the Across the Miles museum. www.ralphstanleymuseum.com From one end of the Trail to the other, The Crooked Road is a historic cultural landscape that has seen generAffiliated Partners of The Crooked Road ation upon generation of musicians carrying on a tradiNestled between the nine major venues of The tion that’s still very much alive today. It is an opportunity Crooked Road are dozens of jams, festivals, and concerts for travelers to experience over 200 years of the heritage that enrich the communities along the Trail. Regular and music of beautiful Southwest Virginia. For additional information, visit us online at weekly jam sessions are held all along The Crooked www.thecrookedroad.org Road, and annual events such as Floydfest and Bristol Rhythm & Roots Reunion are attended by music lovers from all over the world. 34 • Byways

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New York Family Road Trip: First Stop, Rochester

Downtown Rochester, New York. Photo courtesy Visit Rochester. 36 â&#x20AC;˘ Byways

By Jennifer Maxwell

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Courtesy National Museum of Play at The Strong.

hough this city in upstate NY is only 3 hours from our home in Toronto, we had never visited. But we’ll definitely be back. We couldn’t have asked for a more welcoming beginning for our annual summer road trip than this engaging and family-friendly metropolis.

Strong National Museum of Play “Look, it’s the Oscar the Grouch trash can,” I excitedly pointed out to my two kids. They shrugged, clearly not impressed. They had never watched Sesame Street growing up, unlike their mother, who had watched it religiously. A wave of nostalgia hit me as I looked around the set of my beloved show, and I cajoled my kids to take a picture with me on the green steps in front of the red door, beside which the famed trash can stood. The kids were considerably more enthusiastic when we were exploring the History of Electronic Games exhibition, where the second wave of nostalgia almost knocked me over. Here were the games I had wasted many a lunch hour playing as a teenager -- Donkey Kong, Space Invaders, Pac-Man and Centipede, my alltime favorite. “Hey, you’re actually good at video games,” my very surprised son said, after watching me play. He was also shocked that we used to play a game called Pong. 38 • Byways

Sesame Street-Big Bird. Photo courtesy Strong Museum of Play.

Other exhibitions at this museum, dedicated entirely to play, included an extensive doll collection, a kid-sized supermarket and a 1918 carousel. All that playing worked up an appetite, so we headed over to nearby Dinosaur BBQ. “Best ribs ever,” my son declared. The fun, honky-tonk décor and toe-tapping music made for a mighty fine atmosphere to enjoy them in too.

Erie Canal houseboat. Photo courtesy Jennifer Maxwell.

House Boating on the Erie Canal Connecting the Atlantic Ocean to inland cities and ports of the Great Lake system, the Erie Canal catapulted Rochester into prosperity in the early 19th century. Though it no longer transports much freight, it remains an engineering marvel and is one of the most scenic ways to explore the region. We climbed aboard a charming red and green, wooden canal houseboat supplied by Mid-Lakes Navigation to do just that. Our adventure started with a lesson, where we learned the ropes. “It’s not difficult,” said owner Sarah Wiles, explaining that quite a few of her customers are first-time boaters. We quickly found out the number one rule of house boating -- waving. As we cruised down the canal at a relaxing 5 miles an hour pace, bicyclists and other boaters waved and our family happily returned the greeting. “It really doesn’t matter what your destination is,” said Wiles. “It’s all about enjoying the moment.” The woods and countryside that we passed were tranLocks on the Erie Canal are capable of raising and lowering boats up to 50 feet at a time. Photo courtesy Jennifer Maxwell.

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Erie Canal. Courtesy of Sheridan Vincent Photography.

quil, and wildlife sightings have included bald eagles, Street, an architecturally unique, 10-sided structure, with king fishers and deer. The vessels also come with bikes, no two angles the same. However, the 1913 steel bridge so house boaters can explore the land as well as the clanged and rattled loudly whenever a vehicle crossed it, water, including the scenic Erie Canal Trail that runs 360 so although the berths were comfortable, we didn’t get miles from Buffalo to Albany. much sleep. Next time, we’ll dock a little further down The most interesting part of our boating lesson was the canal. going through one of the Canal’s 57 locks. Completely We would have loved to continue our cruise, and perauthentic and using the original 19th century technology, haps explore the “It’s a Wonderful Life” bridge and 50these “water gates” are capable of raising and lowering foot double locks in Seneca Falls, or just lazily float boats up to 50 feet at a time. The lock keeper opened the down the canal enjoying the views. But the highway was gate for us, and under Wiles’ command, the kids went to calling, and we were on a road trip, after all. work, grabbing the ropes along the sides to hold the boat Stay tuned for Part 2 of our New York Family Road in place while the water level lowered. It didn’t take long Trip, Ithaca and New York City, upcoming in Byways. for us to sink far below the banks, and it seemed as though we were at the bottom of a giant well. Then, we were lifted back up again and once again cruising on the canal, basking in the sunshine. The beauty of a house boat is that your hotel room is wherever you happen to be. We moored in the center of the historic village of Fairport, located about nine miles east of Rochester. Here we enjoyed a hearty pub meal at Donnelly’s and icecream at Moonlight Creamery, before we retired back to the boat. EGAME-arcade. Photo courtesy of We were docked beside Strong Museum of Play. the Lift Bridge on Main 40 • Byways

About the Author. After teaching English as a Second Language abroad for 7 years, Jennifer has now “settled down” in Toronto. But her feet continue to itch and she now travels whenever she can with her family, writing about their adventures in numerous diverse publications, including Buffalo News, Latitudes, Virgin Atlantic Blog, Ontario Magazine, Forever Young, Montreal Families, vacay.ca and Today's Parent.

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House boating on the Erie Canal. Photo courtesy Jennifer Merrick.

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Quebec’s Saguenay Lac Saint-Jean: Visiting the Region of Giants By Jennifer Merrick

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’est Géant’ is the catchphrase for the Saguenay Lac Saint-Jean region located 125 miles north of Quebec City. Literally, it means “It’s Giant,’ but it doesn’t translate well. In French, it encompasses more, referring not only to the vast glacially-sculpted landscapes and the deep fjord edged with 350m-high cliffs, but also the region’s personality. A strong sense of place exists here, and you can see and feel it in the area’s culture, history and people. Our trip was filled with gigantic -- in every sense of the word -- adventures and sights, and here are a few of the highlights:

Val-Jalbert Historical Village One of the best preserved ghost towns in Canada, this pulp-mill company town was abandoned at the end of the 1920s, leaving behind wooden homes, a school, general store, the mill itself, and according to some, a few ghostly residents. We didn’t encounter any other-worldly folks when we spent the night in one of the restored homes, but we did get a glimpse of life in another era. We learned about a time when strict nuns ruled the school, 844 • Byways

children families were the norm, and the indoor washrooms and electricity the village homes had were considered the ultimate in modern living. The focal point of the town is Ouiatchouan Falls, which at 260 feet is higher than Niagara Falls. The name means white, boiling water in Innu, and its powerful and stunning cascades can be viewed from a glass platform lookout, or just as you wander through the village itself. Another view to remember, this one of Lac Saint-Jean, one of Quebec’s largest lakes, can be admired out of breath by climbing the 751 stairs to the top, or more easily by chairlift. Meals are served at the restaurant inside the thick stone walls of the mill. Chef Carl Murray, whose great grandfather worked in Val-Jalbert, honors the heritage of the place with locally sourced menu items, including spices indigenous to the Boreal Region. http://www.valjalbert.com/en

Musée du Fjord “Fjords are u-shaped valleys that were bulldozed by glaciers,” explains Brad Clark at the Musée du Fjord. The Saguenay Fjord, at 62 miles long and almost 245 feet deep, is one of the largest in the world. Besides its natural beauty, the glacial river boasts a unique eco-system comprised of both salt and fresh water species. Armed with shovels and wearing rubber boots, we learn firsthand about the fjords inhabitants on the Life between Land and Sea excursion. Kids and adults alike are thrilled to find clams, shrimps and other organisms with the help of our guides. Back inside, we explore the aquariums and exhibitions. The highlight is the touch pool where we hold a

Musee du Fjord. Photo courtesy Jennifer Merrick.

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Kayaks in the Fjord du Saguenay.

slimy sea cucumber, a star fish and other creatures of the fjord. www.museedufjord.com/en/

Fjord-du-Saguenay Park Kayaking on the fjord is one of the best ways to experience its grandeur. Low to the water, there’s a connection to the nature that surrounds you. Several outfitters offer rentals and guided tours, including OrganisAction, who offer 3-hour excursions out of Fjord -du-Saguenay Park. At this 123-square-mile provincial park we set off on our paddling adventure, awestruck by the 650 ft-cliffs that tower above us. Peregrine Falcon nest here and sometimes seals bathe in the sun below. It’s a phenomenal place and the longer we paddled, the tinier I felt compared to the fjord’s awesomeness. Also at the park are camping sites, rustic shelters and 60 miles of hiking trails, including a challenging trek to Cap Éternité, which takes visitors up to a 23 ft.-high statue of the Virgin Mary. Placed here at the top of the towering cliffs by a travelling salesman who credited his 48 • Byways

Val-Jalbert Historical Village.

close escape from death to her divine intervention, the much-loved landmark has greeted ships and visitors since 1881 Other parks in the region include Point-Taillon, Monts Valin and Saguenay-St. Lawrence Marine Park. At the latter, visitors can observe the most famous of the region’s giants -- whales! Thirteen species, including the endangered Beluga and the Blue Whale migrate in summer to feed off the rich krill found where the fresh water of the fjord meets the salt water of the St. Lawrence. Incidentally, the Blue Whale at 30 metres in length and over 180 tonnes in weight, is one of the largest creatures on our planet. Giant, you could say, like the region itself. More adventures in the region include, spotting moose, bears, elk and other indigenous wildlife on a train “safari” through the Nature Trail Park at the Saint Felicien Zoo; climbing into the cockpit of a jet fighter at the Air Defence Museum; sleeping in a treehouse at Jap Jaseux Park; and spelunking at the Le Parc de la caverne du Trou de la Fée. To find out more information about Saguenay Lac Saint-Jean, visit: https://www.saguenaylacsaintjean.ca/en Bonne Voyage! About the Author. After teaching English as a Second Language abroad for 7 years, Jennifer has now “settled down” in Toronto. But her feet continue to itch and she now travels whenever

Jap Jaseux Treehouse. Photo courtesy Jennifer Merrick.

she can with her family, writing about their adventures in numerous diverse publications, including Buffalo News, Latitudes, Virgin Atlantic Blog, Ontario Magazine, Forever Young, Montreal Families, vacay.ca and Today's Parent.

View from Treehouse Balcony. Photo courtesy Jennifer Merrick.

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Exhibits at the Glenn H. Curtiss Museum. Photos courtesy by Bob Magee.

New York’s Glenn H. Curtiss Museum, Hidden Gem of Aviation History, Reaches New Milestone

he Glenn H. Curtiss Museum, often called one of the hidden gems of aviation history, has reached a new milestone as visitors from around the world make their way to Hammondsport, N.Y. The destination, located in New York’s Finger Lakes Region, has now eclipsed the 99% recommendation mark from guests using TripAdvisor, the globe’s top

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website for traveler and tourist ratings and recommendations. “The phenomenal reaction by visitors to the Museum speaks to the incredible stories we’re able to tell of how speed, adventure and manned flight became one through Glenn Curtiss, a true American hero who is at the heart of aviation as we know it,” said Scott Perkins, marketing services director.

“At a time where the Wright Brothers are basking in attention with the publication of David McCullough’s new book, dedicated flying enthusiasts are seeking a more complete story of how man overcame gravity. With a visit to the Glenn H. Curtiss Museum, they are discovering the intriguing stories of the Wrights’ chief competitor and threat, whose innovations and designs are still in use today.” Curtiss is best known for his pioneering work in aviation. He is considered to be the founder of the American aircraft industry and the father of U.S. naval aviation. He gained world recognition as an aircraft builder and pilot in 1909 when he won the Gordon Bennett Trophy for speed at the First The museum contains a priceless collection relating to International Aviation Meet held in Reims, France. early aviation and local history. The museum also A year later, Curtiss again furthered his eminence as a features a 75-seat theater, pioneer aviator by making the first long distance flight in large America between two cities. In 1911 he mastered the technology associated with taking off and landing an

g n i n e p p a H s ’ t Wha

aircraft on water, thereby making the seaplane and the flying boat practical realities. This led Curtiss to an association with the U.S. Navy that began when he trained its first pilots and built the A-1, the first naval aircraft. Visitors to the museum are able to experience a fullscale reproduction of the A-1. Additional Curtiss aircraft in the collection include a 1912 Pusher, a 1913 Model E flying boat, a 1917 Jenny, a 1919 Seagull flying boat, and a 1927 Robin. From the Curtiss-Wright era (post 1929), included are a 1931 Junior, a ¾ scale P-40 and a rare C46 WWII transport.

open area for special events and a gift shop. In addition to seeing the museum displays and exhibits, visitors are welcome to visit the Restoration Shop, talk with volunteer craftsmen and watch them work on historic aircraft. The Glenn H. Curtiss Museum is open year-round in beautiful Hammondsport, N.Y., named as America’s Coolest Small Town by readers of Budget Travel magazine and a top destination in New York’s Finger Lakes Region. To learn more, visit GlennHCurtissMuseum.org or call 607-569-2160.

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2016 American Music Theatre Original Show: Crooners

variety -- from Broadway tours and rock legends like The Beatles’ Ringo Starr and bands like Celtic Woman Tour and Gaither Vocal Band, to famous comedians like Jay Leno and even fan favorites like Olivia Newton John, Harry Connick Jr., Tony Bennett, and Yanni. Since their debut in 1997, they’ve proudly welcomed Grammy, CMA, Tony, Emmy and Oscar winners to their stage. They regularly feature some of the most talented musicians, vocalists, and dancers from Broadway in their own Original Shows. No other theatre in the region offers a broader variety of performances year round. American Music Theatre’s mission is to continually promote a driven and diverse schedule of the top nationally touring artists and compelling musical productions. They strive to regularly collaborate with artists, guests, and team members to achieve a higher level of excellence each year. We hope you take this one-of-a-kind About the American Music Theatre: opportunity to enjoy a Broadway experience in the American Music Theatre is the only theatre of its kind quaint, country-style comfort of one of the most premier in the country to feature both touring concerts and venues on the East Coast for live entertainment. See Original Shows. The 1,600-seat theatre hosts more than 300 live performances a year and provides incredible more at www.amtshows.com.

hese are iconic voices that stand alone! The crooners -- those suave gentlemen and sophisticated ladies who defined musical cool with their smooth, sentimental singing styles. Don’t miss Crooners, the 2016 AMT Original Show at American Music Theatre in Lancaster, PA. A Broadwaycaliber production that delivers toe-tapping, soul-soothing, spirit-lifting entertainment right in the heart of Pennsylvania Dutch Country. In this all-new AMT Original Show, our singers, dancers and orchestra celebrate the hits made famous by familiar and iconic crooners like Frank Sinatra, Rosemary Clooney, Tony Bennett, Ella Fitzgerald and Bing Crosby, along with similarly soulful modern musicians like Michael Bublé, Harry Connick, Jr., Diana Krall and more. Experience a five-star musical journey and travel from the infamous evenings when The Rat Pack owned Las Vegas, to today, when the mellow sounds of our contemporary crooners still help us escape our stresses and soothe our spirits. Relax in the comfort of our first-class theatre and enjoy the satisfying, serene sounds of these larger-thanlife entertainers with American Music Theatre’s 2016 Original Show: Crooners!

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Byways is published bi-monthly by Byways, Inc. and distributed electronically throughout North America. Byways is emailed to more than 4000 tour operators plus selected travel agencies through the internet. Subscriptions are complimentary. An iPad & iPhone version is available for consumers in iTunes and Newsstand in the App Store. Byways’ distribution includes motorcoach companies, tour operators, and selected travel agents, bank travel managers, school band and athletic planners, and meeting planners. For advertising rates, editorial deadlines, or to place advertising insertions, contact: Byways Magazine at 502-785-4875. ©Copyright 2015 by Byways, Inc. All rights reserved. No portion of this publication may be duplicated in any form without express written permission of the publisher. Editor and Publisher Stephen M. Kirchner

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Bedford Welcome Center, Virginia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27

Best Western Colorado River Inn, California . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 Brenham/Washington County, Texas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

Byways Magazine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 Dutchess Tourism, Inc., New York. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

City of Galax, Virginia. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 Lincoln Convention & Visitors Bureau, Nebraska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15

Lynchburg Convention & Visitors Bureau, Virginia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35

National Road of Illinois . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 PA Dutch Hotels, Pennsylvania . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

Randolph County, West Virginia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

Ross-Chillicothe Convention & Visitors Bureau, Ohio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

Silverado Casino/Franklin Hotel, South Dakota . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27

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