Byways Great American Railroads 2016 by Byways, Inc.

Featuring North Americaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Leading Travel Destinations

The Rocky Mountaineer

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For more than 33 years, Byways has been covering the leading destinations along the highways and byways of North America. Some of the most well-known — and least known — destinations to discover in the United States and Canada.

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PREVIEW

By Steve Kirchner, Editor & Publisher

elcome to Byways annual Stearns to serve as the hub of a logging and mining Great American Railroads empire that would control over 200 square miles of land, issue. Each year we seek out and Sterns would become one of the largest company a number of North American tourist towns in America. A highlight is the train stop at the Blue Heron Mine, railroads to celebrate the nostalgia of where passengers can take a walking tour of the site. passenger railroading. West Virginia Railroads, Yesterday and Today highWe begin our journey in Canada. lights the impact of the railroads on the state. Travel on the Rocky Mountaineer is a real life adventure Locked deep within West Virginia’s heavily forested today. Here, you can experience what it’s like on a modmountains that offer a wealth of lumber are the rich ern train with all the comforts associated with the heyday deposits of coal, natural gas and oil that characterize so of the past. Pat Woods invites us to travel along on her dream much of the state. These reserves were largely inaccessivacation, a 595-mile trek through some of Western ble until the coming of the rails. Today, passenger train excursions on lines including Canada’s most spectacular Rocky Mountain scenery. the Durbin & Greenbrier Railroad, Cass Railroad, Bill Graves takes us to another part of the Rockies, Potomac Eagle and New with a visit to the River Train are scheduled Cumbres & Toltec Scenic frequently and are availRailroad in New Mexico able to visitors to West and Colorado. It’s anothVirginia. er story of a nearly abanThe final stop on the raildoned railroad, but this road journey is Strasburg, one was saved when the Pennsylvania, where railtwo states went together road history has been to purchase the railroad. restored. You’ll almost forToday, the Cumbres & get that you’re immersed in Toltec Railroad has four a richly educational experioperating coal red and ence -- learning about steam-operated locomosteam railroading, agricultives and offers one of the Steam engine on the Cumbres & Toltec Scenic Railroad. ture, Amish culture and PA great scenic rides of the Dutch heritage. Founded in 1832, the Strasburg Rail Rockies on America’s longest and highest narrow-gauge Road is celebrating its 184th Anniversary of its railroad railroad. In Indiana, Bill Graves visits the French Lick Scenic charter this year. This month’s feature story highlights St. Louis. If you Railroad. “Before there was Las Vegas, people came here to the haven’t been recently, St. Louis is a place where history middle of Indiana to gamble,” conductor Bob and imagination collide, and it is currently undergoing an amazing transformation with more than $5 billion of McCracken said. investment in its tourism infrastructure with more proj“French Lick was the vacation spot for the gangsters ects on the way, up in Chicago.” In What’s Happening, Washington on the Brazos State In the 1920s, the train was the only way to get to the Historic Site is not only celebrating the 180th anniverFrench Lick resort. As many as 13 trains a day were sary of the signing of the Texas Declaration of coming to French Lick. That service ended in the 1940s. In Kentucky, the Big South Fork Railway operates Independence from Mexico in 1836 at Washington on excursions from April through November. It traces its the Brazos, but it is also the state park’s 100th birthday. To commemorate, Texas Parks & Wildlife Department heritage to the Kentucky & Tennessee Railway, which (TPWD), Blinn College and Washington on the Brazos once stretched over 25 miles into the Big South Fork State Park Association -- are planning some Texas-sized River valley and operated 12 steam locomotives. celebrations. After the turn of the century, the Stearns Coal & We hope you enjoy this issue of Byways! Lumber Company was established. It built the town of 4 • Byways

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Volume 33, Issue No. 1 2016

Features

On the cover. The front windows of Gold Leaf cars are popular places for photo ops on Canada’s Rocky Mountaineer. Great American Railroads coverage begins on page 8. Photo courtesy Pat Woods.

Great American Railroads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 Rocky Mountaineer Fulfills Vacation Dream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 Rocky Mountain Highs and Lows on the Cumbres & Toltec Scenic RR . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 French Lick Scenic Railway, Indiana. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 The Big South Fork Scenic Railway . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 West Virginia Railroads, Yesterday & Today. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 History Restored in Strasburg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 It’s Time for Your Next Great St. Louis Adventure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44

Departments

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What’s Happening

Independence Anniversary in Texas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50

Coming in future issues of Byways ..... Mountains & Valleys, Ocean Views, Rivers & Lakes, Great American Roads and much more!

Next Up: Mountains & Valleys

The view into Mexico at the U.S. border near McAllen, in the Rio Grande Valley of Texas. Byways photo.

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Great American Railroads

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After an appetizing lunch with wine, Gold Leaf guests relax in comfortable seats and enjoy the scenery on Canada’s Rocky Mountaineer. Photo courtesy Pat Woods.

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Rocky Mountaineer Rail Fulfills Vacation Dream By Pat Woods

As the Rocky Mountaineer approaches Banff, more snowy peaks become visible.

xcitement rippled through the Vancouver station as smiling passengers arrived to board the highly acclaimed daylight luxury train through Western Canada’s scenic Rocky Mountains. As the guests sipped early morning coffee, tea and juice, a pianist played cheery railroad tunes. When the pianist played his final note, a bagpiper in full Scottish regalia drew everyone’s attention. Rocky Mountaineer officials introduced themselves and showed eager guests to their assigned train cars. As husband Rob and I began the 595-mile journey, the 10 • Byways

Fraser River sparkled in the morning sun. Following the river, the sleek train passed through the fertile agricultural valley, tiny British Columbia towns and the scenic Fraser Canyon. Fir, aspen, maple and other hardwood trees grew a few feet from our window. Crossing the South Thompson River, we caught a glimpse of snow-capped Mount Baker. The sleek eastbound train crossed bridges, passed cascading waterfalls and navigated through scenic canyons and narrow tunnels in five mountain ranges. Annie, our gregarious car hostess, shared fascinating

railroad lore, described people and events that shaped Western Canada’s history and pointed out scenic wonders, archaeological features, flora and fauna. Near Ashcroft -- one of the driest places in BC -- we saw unique hoodoo rock formations. Because Rocky Mountaineer shares tracks with freight trains, the engineer occasionally pulled onto a siding to enable a long freight train to pass. We learned long freight trains can have 100 to 300 cars! The train stopped for photos at the famous Hell’s Gate Canyon, known for its steep gorge and intimidating Fraser River whitewater. We watched as sightseeing gondola cars carried land passengers to the bottom of the steep canyon. Hell’s Gate also has a salmon ladder Gold Leaf lunches provide a delicious dessert finale. that helps the spawning fish reach their destination. urged guests to watch for Bald Eagles in dead trees. Watching the spectacular scenery -- rushing rivers, “Bald eagles can have a 5-foot wingspan,” she said. towering cliffs, and thousands of acres of lush green Along with other Gold Leaf guests, we descended a forests -- was relaxing and refreshing. Bi-level Gold Leaf spiral staircase to dining car tables clad in white linen. dome cars provide panoramic views of rugged canyons, Talented on-board chefs prepared gourmet breakfasts snow-capped mountain peaks, rushing rivers, and lush and lunches using fresh local ingredients. Breakfast mountain meadows where cattle, horses, and sheep began with elegantly presented fruit and bakery, folgraze. lowed by choices of omelets, pancakes, or lighter fare. Amid the splendid scenery, guests were thrilled with We substituted extra fruit for bacon and sausage with our sightings of deer, mountain sheep, beavers, bald eagles, cheese omelets. and osprey and an occasional bear or moose. Annie With the scenery just 3 to 4 feet away, dining car meals are a joy! Photos courtesy Pat Woods.

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The train stopped for photos at the famous Hellâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Gate Canyon, known for its steep gorge and intimidating Fraser River whitewater. Photo courtesy Pat Woods.

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The train passes lush green meadows with grazing cattle, horses and sheep. Photos courtesy Pat Woods

With the scenery as close as four feet, dining car meals are a visual and gastronomical delight. Lunch started with soup or salad followed by delicious meat, fish or vegetarian entrees and finished with a decadent dessert. Seated with a congenial Aussie couple, we compared notes on travel, vacation time and tipping policies in our respective countries. In British Columbia’s beautiful Okanagan Valley, we passed ginseng farms and lavender fields. Throughout the journey, cordial car hostesses served premium B.C. and Alberta wines, spirits, beer, cheese, crackers and scones. The Gold Leaf bar opened at 9:30, and adult beverages flowed freely. Because our May 11 trip was early in the season, our train had 21 cars carrying 327 guests. During the busy summer months, Rocky Mountaineer trains can have up to 40 cars. The first bighorn sheep sighting occurred as we approached Kamloops, a city of 85,000 where highways intersect. Within the next hour, alert guests spotted four more small flocks of sure-footed bighorns eating sagebrush. Annie said the word Kamloops means “Meeting of the waters.” On the First Passage to the West route, guests overnight at Kamloops hotels. Luggage magically appeared in rooms and was collected by the train crew the following morning, eliminating a major hassle. On the second day, Annie pointed out snow sheds that shield the train from avalanches. The Rocky Mountaineer navigated two unique Spiral Tunnels, remarkable feats of engineering. Wildlife sightings and massive snow-covered peaks became more common as we approached Banff. “Bear on the right!” a male Aussie voice shouted as heads swiveled and hands fumbled with cameras and phones. 14 • Byways

Near Lake Louise, we crossed the Continental Divide, the highest point of our journey at 5,332 feet where all rivers to the east flow toward the Atlantic, while rivers to the west make their way to the Pacific. One of many of bridges on the 595mile First Passage to the West route of the Rocky Mountaineer.

The rail portion of our eastbound trip ended in Banff, a pretty mountain town where streets are named after wildlife that roams freely. After saying a reluctant goodbye to our train hosts, we overnighted at the beautiful Timberline Resort. In the morning a Brewster bus drove us to the Calgary airport. From reservations to Calgary airport transfer, every segment of our trip was smoothly orchestrated by seasoned Rocky Mountaineer staffers.

If you go Rocky Mountaineer offers five routes and 45 vacation packages with a plethora of add-on options. Guests can overnight at historic Fairmont Hotels in Seattle, Vancouver, Banff, Lake Louise, Jasper and Calgary. Each conjures up images of a grand eraâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;and provides an indoor pool and spa to relax tired muscles. Rocky Mountaineer journeys originate in Vancouver (eastbound) or Calgary (westbound). Guests can choose overnights and tours in Banff, Lake Louise, and Jasper, Alberta; Victoria, Vancouver and Whistler, British Columbia; and Seattle, Washington. Rocky Mountaineer offers three service levels. Many guests take the Rocky Mountaineer train journey before or after an Alaska cruise.

To plan your trip of a lifetime, call 800-665-7245 or visit www.rockymountaineer.com.

Where to stay Rocky Mountaineer partners with Fairmont Hotels. This upscale hotelier operates three downtown Vancouver locations. All three are within walking distance of each other, and each is distinctively different: the Fairmont Hotel Vancouver honors its railroad roots; Fairmont Waterfront is connected to the cruise ship terminal and is known for its organic rooftop gardens and apiaries; the Fairmont Pacific Rim is new and edgy. www.Fairmonthotels.com. Our pre-train stay on the Gold floor of Fairmont Vancouver Hotel was a joy with a daily deluxe European breakfast, concierge service, daytime snacks, free WIFI. About the Author. A widely published travel writer, Pat Woods is an Arizona-based train aficionado who would love to see train service between Phoenix and West Coast cities. You can see more of her work at: www.clippings.me/users/patwoods

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Rocky Mountains Highs & Lows on the Cumbres & Toltec Scenic Railroad By Bill Graves 16 â&#x20AC;¢ Byways

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he Cumbres & Toltec was built in 1880 as part of the Rio Grande’s San Juan Extension of the Denver & Rio Grande Western that originally served the silver mines in the mountains of southwestern Colorado. It was built with narrow-gauge track of 3 feet between the rails, instead of the standard-gauge 4 feet, 81⁄2 inches. The main reason was that sharper turns could be laid with the narrower gauge, important when navigating along mountain ridges. After the demand for silver tanked around the turn of the century, the railroad struggled. Good times in the 1920s allowed for the purchase of “modern” steam engines that are still in use here. Except for a respite during World War II, the Cumbres & Toltec never recovered from the Depression. Most narrow-gauge lines in the Rocky Mountains were scrapped in the ’50s. Unfortunately, in 1969 the use of steam locomotives in general freight service ended in this country. Between Chama and Durango, part of the main line’s abandoned track was dismantled. But thanks to those supporters with the enchantment of trains, the scenic portion of the line was saved. In 1970, the states of Colorado and New Mexico jointly bought the track and sideline structures from Antonito to Chama, nine steam locomotives, more than 130 freight and work cars, the yards and maintenance facility, all for $547,120. The following year the new railroad began hauling passengers. 18 • Byways

From sagebrush to the Rocky Mountains on the Cumbres & Toltec Railroad. Photos courtesy Bill Graves.

Today, the Cumbres & Toltec Railroad has four operating coal red and steam-operated locomotives (and they hope to get a fifth one running!) and offers one of the great scenic rides of the Rockies on America’s longest and highest narrow-gauge railroad. Climbing to an elevation of 10,015 feet at one point, passengers are treated to views of steep gorges, sheer cliffs, broad valleys and a few cattle ranches. Around Antonito, the train passes through a pinyon-juniper forest and across desert plains of sagebrush. The trains snake along the Colorado/New Mexico border, moving at 20 to 25 mph. They pass over high trestles across rivers, through tunnels under mountains and make some “whiplash” turns as they loop back on themselves to gain or lose elevation. Each train burns about 4 tons of coal each day. Osier, on the Colorado side at 9,637 feet elevation, is roughly the halfway point. It was once a stagecoach stop and a small railroad town. The trains meet here at lunchtime. In the station’s dining hall hot meals are served upstairs -- it reminded me of a military chow line -- with a salad bar downstairs. Since many of you may have not ridden this train, allow me to suggest the best way to do it. Drive to Chama, it’s 106 miles north of Santa Fe on U.S. Route 84. At 8:30 a.m., take the railroad’s bus, included with your train ticket, to Antonito. Board the train there and ride back to Chama. After six hours of riding the rails, when you get back to Chama, you are “home” and can

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then relax and think back on your day of beautiful For information on the Cumbres & Toltec Railroad: scenery and the grandeur of the Rocky Mountains. 888-CUMBRES (286-2737) Another advantage of taking the westbound train from Chama, New Mexico, Depot: 575-756-2151 Antonito, Antonito is that you are saving the best for last. The high Colorado, Depot: 719-376-5488. www.cumbrestoltec.com mesa country coming out of Antonito has its own spartan beauty. But when you get back on the train after lunch, you are in the mountains with views normally reserved for eagles and mountain goats. At Windy Point, one of the most famous places in American railroading, the rails are laid on a rock shelf, carved from the face of a cliff. The train then begins a 4 percent down grade, accentuated by squeaking brakes, into the Rio Chama valley. Chama is a small mountain town: elevation 7,871 feet, population 1,250. The town is there primarily because of the train, but lumber and outdoor recreation contribute to its economy. During the months the train is running (this year’s schedule is May 28 through October 23), all the shops and eateries in town are open by 7 a.m. for those who want breakfast or to shop before the train or bus leaves. After the morning rush, things are pretty quiet in town the rest of the day, “But when we hear the train whistle as it comes down the grade, the town comes alive again.” said a Chama resident. The train pulls in at 4:40 p.m. By 7 p.m., except for a few restaurants that stay open, the town of Chama is closed up. By the evening, the train has been cleaned and is ready for the next day’s scenic ride. The engine has been turned About the Author. Bill Graves is a California based over to the shop crew who keep it going all night. In travel journalist who also writes the Traveling the those dark hours, the engine groans and moans like a Highways & Byways column in Byways. He can be leashed animal. reached at Roadscribe@aol.com.

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Traveling the Highways & Byways with Bill Graves

FRENCH LICK SCENIC RAILWAY, INDIANA

efore we had trains, no one could take a trip, Bob McCracken explains. “Railroads invented tourism.” He is a conductor on the French Lick Scenic Railway and a retired Methodist minister. “Prior to having reliable cars and decent roads, a family vacation took a couple months, if they wanted to go any distance. The railroad changed all that.” Like practically everybody working in our country’s tourist-train business, Bob is a volunteer. In North America we have 676 tourist trains. Most of them are in the northeastern U.S. -- 257. The majority are just scenic rides in century-old passenger cars. Some are dinner trains. A few, like the Conductor Bob McCracken Grand Canyon Railway, provide round-trip travel to a destination and even offer different classes of service. It’s rare to find one still using a steam engine. In the rest of the world, off of this continent, there are 420 tourist trains. The numbers tell it all: we Americans love our old trains. “Before there was Las Vegas, people came here to the middle of Indiana to gamble,” Bob said. “French Lick was the vacation spot for the gangsters up in Chicago.” In the 1920s, the train was the only way to get here. As many as 13 trains a day were coming to French Lick. That service ended in the 1940s. “This was an upscale destination, two world-class hotels, showplaces really,” Bob continued. “The dome at the West Baden Springs Hotel was called ‘the eighth 22 • Byways

wonder of the world’ when it was built in 1901. It creates a 30,000-square-foot atrium with five floors of rooms facing into it. The dome was the largest in the world until the Houston Astrodome was put up in 1964.” Bob called, “All aboard!” He told me to grab a chair in the baggage car near Allen Riding the French Lick Barnett. He narrates the trip on the train’s Scenic Railway. Photos public address sys- courtesy Bill Graves. tem. Allen lives here and has been a volunteer on the railroad for 20 years. He is now its General Manager. The train goes through 20 miles of the Hoosier National Forest. The engineer has a chain saw in the cab in case he has to stop and remove a tree that’s fallen across the track. Halfway into the trip, we entered a tunnel that is 2,200 feet

long -- and that’s a long way at five mph when the temperature suddenly drops to 55 degrees and its pitch dark. “This was the playground of the rich and famous,” Allen said. “It was here in 1931 that Franklin Roosevelt announced at a Democrat Governor’s Conference that he was going to run for president. “There were a dozen places to gamble, all illegal of course. People here worked in the casinos, generation after generation. But they couldn’t patronize them. They had bouncers to keep the locals out. That way the churches didn’t make a fuss that gambling was a bad influence on the community. That the casinos donated money to the churches had a calming influence too, I’m sure. Lots of little churches around

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Armel-Leftwich Visitor Center (410) 293-8687 (410) 293-3365 (fax) www.usnabsd.com/for-visitors Visitor Center Hours January-February: 9 am - 4 pm March-December 9 am - 5 pm Photo ID required, ages 18 and over

here were built with casino money.” Gambling was shut down here in 1949, but has since become legal in Indiana. A new casino is attached to the fully restored French Lick Resort Hotel. The train slowed to a stop. Allen reached for the microphone, “This is Cuszo, a town of 25, our halfway point. Walk around, but please do not try to visit the one business in town. They don’t want us. In fact they lock the door when the train arrives.” That business is a tavern. Of course, we watched as a young kid tried the door -- nothing tempts the curious like the forbidden. www.frenchlickscenicrailway.org

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About the author: After seeing much of the world as a career naval officer, Bill Graves decided, after he retired, to take a closer look at the United States. He has been roaming the country for 20 years, much of it in a motorhome with his dog Rusty. He lives in Rancho Palos Verdes, California and is the author of On the Back Roads, Discovering Small Towns of America. He can be reached at Roadscribe@aol.com.

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The Big South Fork Scenic Railway “When Coal, Lumber, And Railroads Were King…”

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The Big South Fork Scenic Railway in the Big South Fork National River & Recreation Area of Kentucky. Photo courtesy BSFSRY.com.

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n 1902, Justus S. Stearns of Ludington, Michigan bought 30,000 acres of virgin timberland in southern Kentucky. When coal was discovered soon afterwards, the Stearns Coal & Lumber Company was established. The company built the town of Stearns to serve as the hub of a logging and mining empire that would control over 200 square miles of land, build the Kentucky & Tennessee Railway, erect the first all electric sawmill in the U.S. and employ over 2,200 people living and working in 18 coal and lumber camps. Most of the buildings in the Stearns business district were painted in company colors, sage green with white trim. The Company office headquarters building and surrounding Company houses were painted white with dark green trim. Residents enjoyed services provided by the 26 â&#x20AC;˘ Byways

The Blue Heron Mine Company, such as water and sewage, electricity, and steam heat for their homes. Recreation amenities included a golf course, tennis courts, pool hall, and baseball field for their leisure time. The Kentucky & Tennessee Railway once stretched over 25 miles into the Big South Fork River valley and operated 12 steam locomotives. It served as the primary passage not only for timber and coal, but also for workers and supplies going to camps along its line. The K&T, like many shortline railroads operated steam locomotives several years after the mainline railroads had switched to diesel power. In the 1950s, the Stearns Company closed several coal mines and the K&T discontinued passenger service. By 1976, the Stearns Coal & Lumber Company had sold its mining operations to Blue Diamond Coal Company. The

BSFSRY diesel engine. Photos courtesy BSFSRY.com.

Companyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s vast land holdings transferred to the National Forest, the Big South Fork National River & Recreation Area, and private ownership.

Passengers leaving the station.

Big South Fork National River and Recreation Area The recreation area, established in 1974, set aside a portion of the rugged Cumberland Plateau cut by the Big South Fork of the Cumberland River. The free-flowing river, scenic gorges and sandstone bluff are a haven for

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The Blue Heron Railroad Depot.

adventure tourism: fishing, kayaking, whitewater canoeing, rafting, hiking, mountain biking, hunting, rock climbing, horseback riding, and camping. Coal mining ceased along the K&T in 1987. Today, the McCreary County Heritage Foundation, Inc., a non-profit organization, has taken on the task to preserve, protect, and interpret the rich history of one of the few company towns in America still surrounded by its coal, lumber, and railroad roots. The National Historic District of Stearns, McCreary County Museum, and Big South Fork Scenic Railway provide the venues necessary for the Heritage Foundation to keep this thriving history alive. Today the Big South Fork Railway operates excursions from April through November. In addition to the Blue Heron Ghost Train, they include Halloween Specials, the Moonshine Limited, Banjo Boogie Express, Run to the Gorge, K&T Special, and South Fork Santa Express. The train is popular with groups, families, seniors, and, of course, rail fans of all ages!

Blue Heron Mine The Stearns Coal & Lumber Company used species of birds as a way to advertise their grades of coal. Each mine produced a different grade, with names like Golden Pheasant and Scarlet Tanager. The newest mine and tipple the company owned in 1938 was Blue Heron. This 28 • Byways

mine, tipple, and surrounding camp houses were abandoned in 1962. When the train makes its stopover in Blue Heron, visitors may take a self-guided tour of the site. Instead of a complete restoration, the Blue Heron site is designed as an oral history center, where the people who actually lived and worked here tell their story through audio recordings housed in “ghost structures”. The ghost structures are simply representations of where the actual buildings once stood many years ago. In addition to the ghost structures, there is a picnic shelter, concession stand, and gift shop to explore. The site is now owned and operated by the National Park Service as part of the Big South Fork National River & Recreation Area. A National Park Service Ranger is usually available to answer any questions you may have. The National Park Service may be reached at 606-3765073. The historic railroad brings visitors to learn the rich cultural history of coal miners, loggers, and farmers that settled the area, and and allows them to step back in time at locations like the Blue Heron Mining District and the Oscar Blevins farm where original structures remain. http://bsfsry.com

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West Virginia Railroads Yesterday & Today

Almost heaven! The Durbin & Greenbrier Railroad takes passengers through the beautiful scenery of West Virginia. Photo courtesy Durbin & Greenbrier Railroad. 30 â&#x20AC;˘ Byways

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t may be strange to learn, but the history of the rail- the United States and was completed to Wheeling, roads in West Virginia actually began in Maryland! (West) Virginia on Christmas Eve, 1852. The line passed Baltimore and the state of Maryland constructed the through Harpers Ferry and Grafton to become a major B&O Railroad as a link to the agricultural Midwest and division point that also served the Northwestern Virginia to commerce offered by the Ohio River, and to increase Railroad. Later it connected with Parkersburg. Farther east, Martinsburg also became a first-class railway town, the city’s competitive edge. possessing a round house and machine shops. Locked deep within West Virginia’s heavily forested West Virginia’s Railroad Heritage As a result of its location, more than 210 of B&O’S mountains that offer a wealth of lumber are the rich deposits of coal, natural gas and oil that characterize so 379 miles of track lie within West Virginia. much of the state. The Baltimore & Ohio (B&O) is the oldest railroad in 32 • Byways

One such legend concerns the Great Bend Tunnel at Talcott and John Henry, the “Steel Drivin’ Man” made popular by ballads. A statue near the site of the epic contest, man versus machine, commemorates the story of John Henry’s competition with a steam drill. One of the first trunk lines built in West Virginia after the Civil War, the C&O Railway was started in 1868 and the rails were connected at Hawks Nest on January 29, 1873. Following the pathways of Native Americans and stagecoach routes, the C&O line entered the state east of White Sulphur Springs in Greenbrier County and traveled through the canyon of the New River, followed the Kanawha River for several miles and then cut across to Huntington and the Ohio River. The completion of the line in 1873 opened the southern half of West Virginia, most notably the Kanawha River Valley, to industrialization. The railroad also made possible intensive mining operations that have fueled the state’s economy for 80 years and continue to do so today. The Norfolk and Western Railroad’s Ohio Extension was completed in 1892. It was built expressly for the purpose of opening up the rich Pocahontas coal field in southeastern West Virginia. This rich coal seam produced a fuel highly prized by America’s industries. Many of West Virginia’s most renowned and colorful historical figures are associated with the rail industry. Collis P. Huntington, H. H. Rogers, Henry Gassaway Davis and Stephen Benton Elkins all built and expanded the railroad system and brought prosperity and development to the state. Many states have a strong railroad historical past, but today they are just memories. Not so in West Virginia. The state has preserved its railroad heritage, and there are many excursion opportunities to experience the rails today.

Steam engines power the Durbin & Greenbrier Railroad. Photo courtesy DGVR.

These reserves were largely inaccessible until the coming of the rails. Following a depression in the 1870s and the beginning of the industrialization of the United States, railroad lines were constructed with a goal to recover West Virginia’s natural resources. Construction challenges were daunting to say the least. The Chesapeake & Ohio (C&O) line, which connected Richmond, Virginia and Huntington, West Virginia, faced enormous barriers. Tunnels were blasted and drilled through the mountains, giving birth not only to a rail line, but to legends as well.

Present Day Rail Excursions The Durbin & Greenbrier Valley Railroad offers two historic depots and four excursion trains. In historic Durbin, you have the opportunity to ride and experience the sights and sounds of one of the most unique steam locomotives in existence. The Durbin Rocket Excursion Train is powered by Old No. 3, one of only three operating Climax geared logging locomotives on earth. This 55-ton antique was built in 1910 for the Moore-Keppel Lumber Co. in nearby Randolph County. Today you can ride in an authentic 1920s caboose behind Old No. 3 as she pushes and whistles her way along the free-flowing Greenbrier River in northern Pocahontas County. Your ride covers 10.5 miles on a two-hour round trip and offers many beautiful river and mountain views in the Monongahela National Forest. For schedules and additional information, contact the Durbin & Greenbrier Valley Railroad Inc., 315 Railroad Ave., Elkins, WV 26241. 877-686-7245. www.mountainrail.com Byways • 33

Specially designed Shay steam locomotives take passengers up steep grades on the Cass Scenic Railroad. Photo courtesy Cass Scenic Railroad State Park.

New Tygart Flyer Cheat Mountain Salamander This smooth climate-controlled passenger train offers Welcome to one of the most distinctive rail excursions one of the most exciting mountain wilderness excursion in the eastern United States. Named in honor of the little rides in the country. endangered creature whose sole habitat is the river of the The four-hour, 46-mile round trip starts in Elkins and same name, the Cheat Mountain Salamander takes you features two separate mountain grades, an “S” curve tun- through some of the wildest mountain wilderness you nel, passage into a 1,500-foot deep canyon with steep will ever experience. densely forested slopes, and crossing the rushing This 6.5-hour ride transports you through mile-aftermile of unbroken, untamed mountain wilderness that has Shavers Fork of the Cheat River. remained unchanged since the time before modern civiMountain Explorer Premier Dinner Train lization arrived. Train travel and and dining have been one of the great pleasures enjoyed by previous generations of Americans. Cass Scenic Railroad State Park Once used to haul logs in the bustling lumber town of As faster modes of transportation evolved, the magnificent long-distance passenger trains began to disappear, Cass, the specially designed Shay steam locomotives today take passengers up steep grades and past breaththus bringing to a close the era of dining car service. However, many who remember this time in history taking views of mountain scenery to Whittaker Station, still visualize the romantic notions evoked by the unusu- Bald Knob and Spruce Run. A special “railfan” weekend previews the season in al combination of dining while gliding effortlessly past towns and rivers, accompanied by the rhythmic melody mid-May, with the regular public schedule (available of the rails. The four-hour journey will highlight fresh- upon request) from Memorial Day weekend through cooked, four course gourmet meals prepared inside a October. During the operating season, a dinner train completely restored dining car and served enroute by the series and other special events are offered. www.cassrailroad.com food service professionals from the Railyard Restaurant. 34 • Byways

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Cheat Mountain Salamander

wild, wonderrful West Virginia from an entirely new p p tive — climb aboard any one of our unique perspec q trains! From April to December, the t surrounding mountains and valleys come alive with the welc e oming wail of whistles from m beautifully refurbished and historic locomotives that depart both Elkins and Durbin depots. Taakke a unique journey,, into some of the best scenery this side of thee Rockies! Our unique collection t of trains roll through a potpou urri of West Virginia mountain areas! a

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The Potomac Eagle rounds a bend in West Virginia. Photo courtesy Potomac Eagle and ÂŠMike Smith.

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Thurmond. Located inside the New River Gorge National River, this historic coal town was once only accessible by rail, boasts a restored depot (used as a visitors center), restored bank and store fronts that you visit by walking up beside the tracks. Photo courtesy Visit Southern West Virginia.

Castaway Caboose Two original Wabash Railroad cabooses have been refurbished into efficiency suites on rails. Overnight packages include a round-trip fare on the Durbin Rocket steam train, where you will be “castaway” at the remote Hevener Station picnic area, located several miles from the modern world. In this secluded wilderness setting, along the Greenbrier River you will spend the evening with only the rushing waters of the river. At the end of your stay the train will pull your caboose back to Durbin.

Potomac Eagle Scenic Railroad Enjoy a 3.5-hour narrated trip that winds through idyllic pastures filled with native flowers, past farms dating from the early 1700s, and through the visually striking river gorge known as The Trough. Thrill to the sight of American bald eagles soaring high above their natural habitat along the South Branch of the Potomac River. Open window coach or Classic Club seating is available. First Class seating includes a meal served in an air-conditioned club car. Schedule: Saturdays, May through September, and daily in October for fall color. www.potomaceagle.info

New River Train Excursions In cooperation with Amtrak, the Collis P. Huntington Railroad Historical Society operates a series of special fall foliage tours through the scenic New River Gorge, “the Grand Canyon of the East.” Locomotives and a mixture of Amtrak and privately owned Amtrakapproved horizon coaches, lounges, parlor cars, dome cars and open platform cars make up the trains. The tour originates in Huntington, makes stops in St. Albans and Montgomery to board passengers, and passes through the 65-mile long New River Gorge National River and under the New River Gorge Bridge. Last stop for the trip is historic Hinton for a delightful Railroad Days street fair, which features local food booths, arts and crafts, a railroad museum and other attractions. Other excursions offered throughout the year include trips to the Greenbrier, New York, Washington, DC or Philadelphia. For information, contact the Collis P. Huntington Railroad Historical Society, Inc. Call 304-523-0364 or 866-639-7487. www.newrivertrain.com E-mail: CPHRRHS@aol.com Byways • 37

History Restored in Strasburg

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A Strasburg Rail Road steam engine pulls the train through the cornfields of Lancaster County, Pennsylvania. Photo courtesy Strasburg Rail Road. Byways â&#x20AC;˘ 39

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Steam in the snow in Strasburg. Photos courtesy Strasburg Rail Road.

trolling through the historic East Strasburg Station and the neighboring town of Strasburg, PA, exploring the engines and rail cars up-close and riding beautifully restored trains are such a wonderful experience you’ll almost forget that you’re immersed in a richly educational experience -- learning about steam railroading, agriculture, Amish culture and PA Dutch heritage. The larger-than-life coal-burning steam train is just the beginning. Ride the Pint-Sized Pufferbelly, a miniature version; operate a hand-powered Pump Car or watch the little ones “steer” the pint-sized Cranky Car. Browse the Thomas™ Toy Store. Discover an amazing railroad bookstore and railfan shop filled with apparel and merchandise. Don’t forget to bring your appetite. You can enjoy food, drinks and entertainment while riding aboard Strasburg Rail Road, or grab a bite at the Trackside Café. Across the road is the Railroad Museum of Pennsylvania, where you can explore a world-class collection of more than 100 locomotives and rail cars on display, including the priceless Pennsylvania Railroad Historical Collection. And nearby is the National Toy Train Museum -- another world-class collection. Strasburg Rail Road Yesterday Founded in 1832, the Strasburg Rail Road is celebrating its 184th Anniversary of its railroad charter this year. Precisely when the railroad first turned a wheel is still a matter of patient research, but the earliest timetable found to date indicates Strasburg trains were scheduled

Wine and Cheese

as of December 1851. On February 22, 1861, President Abraham Lincoln made a stop at Leaman Place on his inaugural train ride, en route to Lancaster. His four-minute visit brought nearly 5,000 people out to cheer for the President and Mrs. Lincoln. To prepare for the President’s visit, Strasburg Rail Road had purchased their first passenger car, which ran on a special train to transport people to and from Leaman Place. First used for passenger and freight transportation, the railroad’s main purpose became a freight interchange with the Pennsylvania Railroad. Following World War II, improved highway transportation decreased the need for the railroad. By the mid 1950s, the Strasburg Rail Road was nearing the end of its usefulness. In 1957, destruction of the tracks caused by a series of storms placed an immediate embargo on the carload freight. The owners were unwilling to invest in the necessary repairs.

A Hobo meal is available in the dining car.

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Day Out With Thomas. Thomas makes periodic visits to the Strasburg Rail Road throughout the year. Photo by Joe Osciak, courtesy Strasburg Rail Road.

A Second Chance While petitions for abandonment were being considered, Henry K. Long, an industrialist and railfan from nearby Lancaster, along with Donald E. L. Hallock, another enthusiastic railfan with a vision, formed a group of interested individuals to save the railroad. With perseverance and a creative idea, the Strasburg Rail Road was saved. After repairing the worst spots on the four-and-a-half mile track, the owners began acquiring an inventory of historic locomotives and passenger cars from all across North America. Using the old feed mill as a station, the ambitious band of “rail barons” opened the railroad to visitors in 1958. This year marks the 58th anniversary of Strasburg Rail Road as a tourist railroad. Today the Strasburg Rail Road has five working steam engines and 17 operating passenger cars, including the President’s Car, First-Class Parlor Car and Dining Car. As we look back at their labor of love, the Strasburg Rail Road is one of Lancaster County’s most popular tourist attractions -- and recognized as one of America’s most significant examples of early 20th century railroading. www.strasburgrailroad.com 42 • Byways

All Aboard!

Strasburg Rail Road and Hollywood Strasburg Rail Road is no stranger to Hollywood. Since the 1950s, America’s oldest short-line railroad has been called upon to produce and provide equipment for the silver screen. The following films have utilized coach cars and locomotives from Strasburg Rail Road’s rolling stock. •Raintree Country (1956) staring Elizabeth Taylor •Hello, Dolly (1969) staring Barbara Streisand and Walter Matthau. •Gaily, Gaily (1969) staring Beau Bridges and Hume Cronyn. •Thomas and the Magic Railroad (1999). •Wild, Wild West (1999) staring Will Smith and Kevin Kline. •Men Who Built America (2012) History Channel mini-series.

The ornate Parlor Car on the Strasburg Rail Road.

The Great Train Robbery. Photos courtesy Strasburg Rail Road.

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CityArchRiver Circulation Loop Rendering. Photo courtesy CityArchRiver. © St. Louis Convention & Visitors Commission. 44 • Byways

It’s Time For Your Next Great St. Louis Adventure ck i l C

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f you haven’t been to St. Louis lately, then you need to take a look at this exciting destination filled with one-of-a-kind attractions, restaurants, shops and adventures that will have you coming back for more. St. Louis is a place where history and imagination collide, and it is currently undergoing an amazing transformation with more than $5 billion of investment in its tourism infrastructure with more projects on the way, including the massive $380 million CityArchRiver project that is transforming the grounds surrounding the iconic Gateway Arch.

CityArchRiver The development known as CityArchRiver, designed by world-renowned landscape architecture firm Michael Van Valkenburgh Associates, is scheduled for completion in 2017. A new park built over the lanes of Interstate 44 will connect the Arch grounds directly to downtown St. Louis’ central business and tourism district and will provide a pleasant and safe green space for pedestrians walking to the monument from the historic Old Courthouse, downtown hotels and the America’s Center Convention Complex. 46 • Byways

Just north of Busch Stadium, Ballpark Village is the first master-planned development designed around a new MLB ballpark. The $100 million first phase of Ballpark Village represents one of the top restaurant and entertainment districts in the region.

A new underground-glass entrance will feature natural lighting and face the park over the highway. This west-facing entry plaza will give visitors an easier way to enter the Gateway Arch and its Museum of Westward Expansion. The park site will increase with 11 new acres, a renovated historic Old Courthouse and an expanded Museum of Westward Expansion, exploring America’s western journey and the important role St. Louis and its people played in the growth of the United States. With the new space beneath the Arch, groups will have the opportunity to use the museum as an off-site venue for events and performances. Guests can ride the elevators to the top of the nation’s tallest man-made monument for 30-mile views of St. Louis and the Mississippi River. Outside on the Arch’s park grounds more than five miles of new paths are under development along with additional green space and bike-friendly lanes to encourage activity in the park and along the Mississippi River.

Feelin’ the Blues When we say, “St. Louis has the blues,” we mean it. The National Blues Museum opens April 2 to pay tribute to the musicians who created America’s roots music and St. Louis’ signature sound. Located next door to the

St. Louis welcomes streetcars back to Delmar Boulevard in 2016. Photo courtesy Nathan Shroeder. © St. Louis Convention & Visitors Commission.

America’s Center convention complex in the heart of downtown, the new museum is supported by living legends including musician Buddy Guy, Robert Cray, Devon Allman, Denise LaSalle, Derek Trucks and actor John Goodman, a St. Louis native with a deep love for his city’s music. A theatre for musical performances, artifacts, interactive exhibits and exciting programming bring the blues music experience to life at the new museum.

Anheuser-Busch and Ballpark Village A stop in St. Louis must include a visit to the King of Beers. The Anheuser-Busch brewery tour is a must-see for beer lovers and families and guests can learn the history of the iconic brewing company and see the world-

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renowned Budweiser Clydesdales. With three national historic landmarks along the tour route, there’s history and even free samples (for adults) at the end of the tour. When you’re finished with your St. Louis beer education, head to Ballpark Village to learn more about Cardinals’ Nation. Opened in 2014, Ballpark Village is a slice of Cardinals’ baseball history and its future. Located across the street from Busch Stadium, this venue offers restaurants, nightlife, live entertainment and even the Cardinals’ Hall of Fame! City Museum There is always something new at City Museum. Imagined, conceived and built by a team of wildly creative designers and artists, City Museum stretches the definition of “museum” to new and exhilarating dimensions. Three floors of eclectic experiences include a multi-level enchanted forest, giant aquarium, museum of sal-

The National Blues Museum opens in April to pay tribute to the musicians who created America’s roots music and St. Louis’ signature sound. Photo courtesy National Blues Museum. © St. Louis Convention & Visitors Commission.

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vaged architectural ornaments, glass blowers, weavers, painters and potters in action, a circus, museum oddities and much more. You won’t want to miss the five-story-tall slides and the Monstro City outdoor playground. This is not just for kids!

this street until 1966 when the nation’s car culture brought them to an end. Today’s trolleys will connect passengers to two MetroLink stations and carry them 2.2 miles along The Loop’s restaurants, gift shops, music clubs and the St. Louis Walk of Fame. Turning onto DeBaliviere, the historic trolleys will proceed toward the Missouri History Museum and the entrance to Forest Park and its attractions before returning passengers to The Loop.

To start your next great St. Louis adventure, visit The Best of Route 66 www.explorestlouis.com and make your plans today to Getting your kicks on his- create lifelong memories in the Gateway City. toric Route 66 has never been more fun as the Missouri History Museum opens a new exhibit celebrating the Mother Road with “Route 66: Main Street Through St. Louis” opening on June 25. The exhibition tells stories about the sights along the road, including no-tell motels, frozen custard stands and amusing tourist traps. Gas pumps, roadside signs and other artifacts will be on display. The exhibition runs through February 12, 2017, but sights along the America’s highway are always open in St. Louis.

Ding-Ding-Ding Went the Bell The clang-clang-clang of the trolley will be heard in St. Louis once again as The Loop neighborhood welcomes historic streetcars back to Delmar Boulevard in 2016. The trolleys ran on

The City Museum was born of the vision of several creative artists where a mix of history, science and whimsy awaits the curious. Photo courtesy McElroy Fine Art Photography Copyright © St. Louis Convention & Visitors Commission. Byways • 49

Independence Hall. Where Texas Became Texas. Photos courtesy Washington on the Brazos State Park.

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Independence Anniversary in Texas

his year is an especially important year for Washington on the Brazos State Historic Site: not only is it the 180th anniversary of the signing of the Texas Declaration of Independence from Mexico in 1836 at Washington on the Brazos, but it is also the state park’s 100th birthday. It was March 2, 1836 when 59 delegates bravely met in Washington, Texas to make a formal declaration of independence from Mexico. From 1836 until 1846, the Republic of Texas proudly existed as a separate nation. To commemorate the 180th anniversary of Texas Independence, the three entities that administer and support this site -- Texas Parks & Wildlife Dept (TPWD), Blinn College and Washington on the Brazos State Park Association -- are planning some Texas-sized celebrations. “Texas Independence Day Celebration” (TIDC) is an annual two-day celebration held the first weekend in March on the expansive 293-acre park grounds and its three incredible attractions: Independence Hall (replica of the site where representatives wrote the Texas Declaration of Independence); Star of the Republic Museum (collections and programs honoring history of early Texans, administered by Blinn College); and Barrington Living History Farm (where interpreters dress, work and farm as did the original residents of this homestead). 50 • Byways

Star of the Republic Museum

The birthday celebration features live music, food, traditional crafts, living history presentations, historical encampments and commemorative programs so guests can experience life in Texas in 1836. The Star of the Republic Museum at Washington on the Brazos will celebrate the 180th anniversary with its new exhibit “A Legacy of Leadership: The Signers of the Texas Declaration of Independence.” Elected as delegates to the Constitutional Convention in 1836, these men determined the future of Texas. Amongst them were 12 lawyers, five physicians, four surveyors and three

each of planters, empresarios and merchants. The exhibit will focus on their roles as leaders and includes personal artifacts such as Sam Maverick’s buckskins, a cameo of Michel Menard, oil portraits of Stephen Blount and his wife, and many other items. The Museum will also preview its new Pioneer Playroom which will simulate a Texas frontier homestead, with inside and outside features. It will allow children to immerse themselves in the role of pioneers through role-playing, interactive experiences and a variety of learning styles such as loading a covered wagon; dressing in period clothing; or building a log cabin. Other events and programs throughout the 180th anniversary year are being finalized at the seven historic sites associated with the Texas Revolution:

within the park. It also houses the spacious Washington Emporium Gift Shop, which offers snacks and a wide range of Texas-themed items and keepsakes. The Fanthorp Inn State Historic Site is an authentically preserved example of a 19th century stagecoach inn, located nearby in Anderson, TX. Entrance to the park grounds, Visitor Center and parking is always free. The expansive park grounds along the Brazos River also provide a beautiful setting for picnicking, sightseeing and bird watching, as well as four geocaching sites, two each from TPWD and the Brenham/Washington County Chamber and CVB. It also features a Conference Center

g n i n e p p a H s ’ t Wha

Gonzales, San Felipe, San Antonio Missions, the Alamo, Washington on the Brazos, Goliad and San Jacinto Monument. Washington on the Brazos State Historic Site:

This TPWD-run state park has many onsite amenities open daily, as well as an incredible schedule of events and programs. On-site attractions include Independence Hall, the Star of the Republic Museum and Barrington Living History Farm. The site’s Visitor Center features interactive exhibits which present a timeline of the Texas Revolution and highlight the historic attractions located

f o r meetings, weddings and reunions. The Education Center with two classroom-style spaces is perfect for smaller groups. Washington on the Brazos State Historic Site is located on the Brazos River at the original townsite of Washington, Texas, a major political and commercial center in early Texas. It is located at 23400 Park Road 12, Washington, TX, 77880, approximately halfway between Brenham and Navasota, off of State Hwy. 105. Updates on all the festivities, including TIDC and the 180th celebrations, are continually posted at www.wheretexasbecametexas.org; the public can contact office@wheretexasbecametexas.org or 936-8782214 for more information.

Barrington Living History Farm

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Byways is published bi-monthly by Byways, Inc. and distributed electronically throughout North America. Byways is emailed to more than 4000 tour operators /Travel Trade through the Internet. Subscriptions are complimentary. An iPad & iPhone version is available for consumers in iTunes in the App Store. An Android browser version is available at www.issuu.com/byways. Byways’ distribution includes motorcoach companies, tour operators, selected travel agents, bank travel managers, school band and athletic planners, meeting planners and the travel trade. For advertising rates, editorial deadlines, or to place advertising insertions, contact: Byways Magazine at 502-785-4875. ©Copyright 2016 by Byways, Inc. All rights reserved. No portion of this publication may be duplicated in any form without express written permission of the publisher. Editor and Publisher Stephen M. Kirchner

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Advertisers Index Barbourville & Knox County Visitor Center, Kentucky . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29

Bedford Visitor Center, Virginia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21

Brenham/Washington County, Texas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21

Byways Magazine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53 Colorado Springs Convention & Visitors Bureau, Colorado . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19

Lincoln Convention & Visitors Bureau, Nebraska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

Lynchburg Convention & Visitors Bureau, Virginia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

PA Dutch Hotels, Pennsylvania . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

Randolph County, West Virginia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 Ross-Chillicothe Convention & Visitors Bureau, Ohio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

Silverado Casino/Franklin Hotel, South Dakota . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

United States Naval Academy Visitor Center, Maryland. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 52 • Byways

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