Featuring North America’s Leading Travel Destinations
Oceans 2017
New American Revolution Museum at Yorktown Joins Jamestown Settlement Florida’s Top 10 Boat Tours & Cruises South Padre Island Blends White Sand, Blue Water & Outdoor Adventure San Diego’s Sparkling Beach Town Life
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United States Naval Academy
Undergraduate College of the U.S. Navy
Guided Walking Tours include the Naval Academy Chapel, Crypt of John Paul Jones, Statue of Tecumseh and the history and traditions of the U.S. Naval Academy, Annapolis, MD. HISTORICAL, EDUCATIONAL, JEWISH CHAPEL AND MILITARY REUNION TOURS
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Byways Magazine
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For more than 34 years, Byways has been covering the leading destinations along the highways and byways of North America. Some of the most well-known, and least known, destinations to discover in the United States and Canada.
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PREVIEW By Steve Kirchner, Editor & Publisher
elcome to the annual Oceans ous United States, after Long Island in New York on the issue of Byways. Each year Atlantic Coast. It is about 113 miles long and 1.8 miles we highlight destinations wide. In his column, Traveling the Highways and Byways, along our oceans: the Atlantic, the Gulf Bill Graves takes us to Alabama’s Gulf Shores. Here, he of Mexico and the Pacific. visits Gulf Shores and Orange Beach — miles of wide, Oceans on earth cover 71 percent of sugar-sand beaches and warm breezes off the Gulf of the planet’s surface and contain 97% of Mexico. Bill spent an afternoon boating with friends on Earth’s water. It is estimated that only 5 percent of our the Waterway with Skip Beebee. He runs Sailaway oceans have been explored, not surprising given the Charters and knows these waters well. average depth of earth’s oceans is 12,100 feet. Skip took the boat into Wolf Bay where they watched Late in 1606, English entrepreneurs set sail with a a dolphin splashing around in shallow water catching charter from the London Company to establish a colony fish. He would watch for a slight ripple on the water and in the New World. The fleet consisted of the ships Susan would point to where the dolphin would come up next Constant, Discovery, and Godspeed, all under the leadfor air. He was always right. ership of Captain Christopher Newport. They made a On the Pacific coast, San Diego lives up to its reputaparticularly long voyage of four tion as California’s beach months, including a stop in Puerto city. San Diego offers 260 Rico, and finally departed for the days of sunshine and 70 American mainland on April 10, miles of sparkling coastline. 1607. The city offers five They selected a piece of land on a favorite and distinct beach large peninsula some 40 miles inland neighborhoods for visitors from the Atlantic Ocean as a prime to discover, offering somelocation for a fortified settlement. thing for every type of visiThe river channel was a defensible tor. strategic point due to a curve in the Attractions include the river, and it was close to the land, Dolphin off South Padre Island largest man-made aquatic making it navigable and offering park in the world, enough land for piers or wharves to SeaWorld San Diego, miles of tranquil shoreline, soft be built in the future. This was the Jamestown sand beaches, bicycling paths, grassy parks for picnickSettlement. ing and barbecuing, and endless water activities from Today, Jamestown is one of three locations comprising stand up paddle boarding and kayaking to sailing and jet the Historic Triangle of Colonial Virginia, along with skiing. Williamsburg and Yorktown. In What’s Happening, Crystal River scalloping may be The American Revolution Museum at Yorktown presone of the more unusual pursuits we’ve come upon, but ents a renewed national perspective on the meaning and the season opens July 1st, and Florida’s Plantation on impact of the American Revolution. Crystal River is ready to bring the full experience to its Our next destination is Florida, where we explore 10 guests and visitors. boat tours and cruises in the state. And there’s no shortVolcano Bay is Universal Orlando’s third theme park age of waterways to explore — Florida has 1800 miles and the next chapter in the award-winning vacation desof coastline and 12,000 miles of rivers and streams. tination’s evolution. Universal Orlando is part of the While our list of 10 boat tours doesn’t begin to cover NBCUniversal Comcast family, which has invested sigall the possibilities, it’s a good start. nificantly in the destination’s unprecedented growth. Next stop is South Padre Island. The island’s location Volcano Bay is unlike any other water park in world. on the tropical tip of Texas is just 25 miles north of It offers an immersive environment filled with unbelievMexico, and provides a year-round beach getaway that able detail and innovative technology to enhance fun and draws visitors from all over the United States. the visitor experience. South Padre Island is on the southern tip of Padre We hope you enjoy this issue of Byways! Island, the second-largest island by area in the contiguByways • 4
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Volume 34, Issue No. 3 2017
Features
On the cover. The recreation of three ships which sailed to the New World in 1607 establishing the Jamestown Settlement in Virginia. The American Revolution Museum is the latest addition to the Jamestown-Yorktown Foundation. For more on Byways Oceans coverage, turn to page 8.
Oceans . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 About Our Oceans . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 New American Revolution Museum at Yorktown Joins Jamestown Settlement . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 Florida’s Top 10 Boat Tours & Cruises . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 Alabama’s Gulf Shores & Orange Beach . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 South Padre Island Blends White Sand, Blue Water & Outdoor Adventure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 San Diego’s Sparkling Beach Town Life . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32
Departments
Byways Instant Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 Byways Preview. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 Traveling the Highways & Byways with Bill Graves . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 Advertisers Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44
What’s Happening
Crystal River Scalloping. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 Universal’s Water Theme Park Volcano Bay is Now Open . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42
Coming in future issues of Byways ..... Rivers & Lakes, Great American Roads, Top North American Tour Destinations, Great American Railroads and much more! Next Up: Rivers & Lakes. Members of the Green Bay Packers football team ride bicycles provided by young fans from Lambeau Field to training camp, a Green Bay tradition. Byways photo.
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The beaches of Miami Beach and the city of Miami in background. Photo courtesy Cris Ascunce and Greater Miami Convention and Visitors Bureau. 8 • Byways
Oceans 2017
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About Our Oceans
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NOAA Ship Thomas Jefferson in New York Harbor. It is used to improve our understanding of the marine environment. The ship operates along the Atlantic and Gulf coasts.
n Earth, an ocean is one of the major conventional divisions of the World Ocean, which covers almost 71% of its surface. These are, in descending order by area, the Pacific, Atlantic, Indian, Southern (Antarctic), and Arctic Oceans. The ocean contains 97% of Earth’s water, and oceanographers have stated that less than 5% of the World Ocean has been explored. The average ocean depth is nearly 12,100 ft. The world ocean is the principal component of Earth’s hydrosphere. It is integral to all known life, forms part of the carbon cycle, and influences climate and weather patterns. The World Ocean is the habitat of 230,000 known species, but because much of it is unexplored, the number of species that exist is much larger, possibly over two million. The origin of Earth’s oceans remains unknown; oceans are thought to have formed in the Hadean period and may have been the impetus for the emergence of life. Ocean travel by boat dates back to prehistoric times, but only in modern times has extensive underwater travel become possible. The deepest point in the ocean is the Mariana Trench, located in the Pacific Ocean near the Northern Mariana Islands. Its maximum depth has been estimated to be 35,994 ft. Canada stretches from the Atlantic Ocean in the east to the Pacific Ocean in the west; to the north lies the Arctic Ocean. The United States has the Atlantic Ocean on its East Coast and the Pacific Ocean on the West Coast. The Gulf of Mexico is an ocean basin on its Southern border. 10 • Byways
United States Naval Academy
Undergraduate College of the U.S. Navy
Guided Walking Tours include the Naval Academy Chapel, Crypt of John Paul Jones, Statue of Tecumseh and the history and traditions of the U.S. Naval Academy, Annapolis, MD. HISTORICAL, EDUCATIONAL, JEWISH CHAPEL AND MILITARY REUNION TOURS
Naval Academy Gift Shop Restrooms, Exhibits, Film
U.S. Naval Academy Campus.
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Armel-Leftwich Visitor Center (410) 293-8687 (410) 293-3365 (fax) www.usnabsd.com/for-visitors Visitor Center Hours January-February: 9 am - 4 pm March-December 9 am - 5 pm Photo ID required, ages 18 and over
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New American Revolution Museum at Yorktown Joins Jamestown Settlement
The American Revolution Museum opened in Williamsburg, VA. Climb on-board replicas of Susan Constant, Godspeed, and Discovery at the Jamestown Settlement ships’ pier. 12 • Byways
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his is a pivotal year at Jamestown Settlement and the American Revolution Museum at Yorktown, two premier living-history museums in two corners of America’s Historic Triangle that offer year-round experiences, compelling special exhibitions, events and programs that immerse visitors into the story of America’s beginnings. T  he Grand Opening Celebration of the American Revolution Museum at Yorktown was held in March and April, culminating the museum’s 10-year transformation from the Yorktown Victory Center. The American Revolution Museum at Yorktown presents a renewed national perspective on the meaning and 14 • Byways
impact of the Revolution through introductory film, timeline, expansive gallery exhibits with nearly 500 artifacts, interactive displays and experiential theaters, and new settings for hands-on interpretive experiences in expanded re-creations of a Continental Army encampment and Revolution-era farm. The Grand Opening Celebration launched the new museum with daily highlights of one of America’s 13 original states in the order that they ratified the Constitution, with a dedication ceremony on April 1. Patriotic festivities include gallery tours, living-history programs, artillery firings, flag-raising ceremonies, military musical performances, military re-enactments, lec-
Entrance to the museum building at the American Revolution Museum at Yorktown. Photos courtesy Jamestown-Yorktown Foundation.
Portrait of Pocahontas, by C. Gregory Stapko, after an unknown artist, circa 1958.
tures and children’s activities. The museum’s inaugural special exhibition — “AfterWARd: The Revolutionary Veterans Who Built America” — debuted in June and follows the post-war stories of veterans of the Siege of Yorktown and how they went on after the war to shape the America we know today. A series of plays, performances and public lectures June through November feature Revolutionary War veterans James Lafayette, Alexander Hamilton, the Marquis de Lafayette and Henry Knox as well as issues facing modern-day veterans. At Jamestown Settlement, a museum of 17th-century Virginia history and culture, visitors can experience new interactive gallery exhibits exploring the Powhatan Indian, English and west central African cultures that converged in the 1600s. As part of a phased gallery enhancement, touch-screen panels allow visitors to com-
Visitors walk along the American Revolution timeline corridor at the new museum.
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Inside a reed covered house in Jamestown Settlement’s Powhatan Indian Village, visitors learn about life of the Powhatan culture. Photos courtesy Jamestown-Yorktown Foundation.
An historical interpreter assists a visitor with a navigation tool used aboard the Godspeed, a recreation of one of three ships which sailed to Virginia in 1607.
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pare and contrast each culture’s language, religion, government, economy and family structure. Jamestown Settlement’s expansive gallery exhibits debuted in 2006 in time for America’s 400th Anniversary commemoration in 2007, and are now being refreshed a decade later with new technology.
included with general admission. A value-priced combination ticket for both museums is available. An annual pass also is available. Parking at the museums is free. Jamestown Settlement is located on Route 31 at the Colonial Parkway next to Historic Jamestown, administered by the National Park Service and Jamestown Rediscovery (on behalf of Preservation Virginia). The American Explore 18th century foodways Revolution Museum at Yorktown is located on Route 1020 in Yorktown in the farmhouse kitchen at the near Yorktown Battlefield, adminisAmerican Revolution Museum tered by the National Park Service. in Yorktown. The museums are a short distance from Busch Gardens®, Colonial Williamsburg and other attractions. Jamestown Settlement and American Revolution Museum at Yorktown admission is included in several Williamsburg area joint tickets and vacation packages. For more information, call 888593-4682 toll-free or 757-253-4838, or visit www.historyisfun.org.
Four hundred years after the 1617 death of Pocahontas in England, her image and legend live on. Using depictions of Pocahontas from across the centuries, Jamestown Settlement presents “Pocahontas Imagined,” a special exhibition opening July 15 that illuminates the reasons behind her enduring legacy as well as her impression on popular culture and art. The six-month exhibition features Pocahontas memorabilia, advertisements and interactive experiences. Outdoors, visitors can examine artistic patterns, lines and colors in objects found in Jamestown Settlement’s re-created Powhatan Indian village, ships and fort. Public lectures in partnership with the Virginia Museum of Fine Arts take place September 5, September 13 and October 3. Both museums are open 9am to 5pm daily, until 6pm from June 15 through August 15; closed Christmas and New Year’s days. Admission to special programs during museum operating hours is
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Aerial shot of Port of Miami, near Downtown. Photo courtesy Greater Miami Convention & Visitors Bureau. 18 • Byways
Florida’s Top 10 Boat Tours & Cruises By Bonnie Gross
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her’s no shortage of waterways to explore and boat tours in Florida to enjoy. The first tourists in Florida arrived by boat — Juan Ponce de Leon and his crew 500 years ago — and it’s still the best way to see the Sunshine State. From a boat you can reach special places where there are no roads and glimpse views you can’t see any other way. Some of the boats themselves are one-of-a-kind attractions. And there’s no shortage of waterways to explore — Florida has 1,800 miles of coastline and 12,000 miles of rivers and streams. While some visitors will rent kayaks, motor boats, houseboats or sailboats on a Florida vacation the easiest and least expensive way to go is on a boat tour and there are hundreds to choose from. Here are 10 favorites that illustrate the variety of cruises available around the state:  1. Cruise Through Tarpon Springs to a Dazzling Island As early as 1890 Greeks came to Tarpon Springs to dive for sponges. The sponges are long gone but the Greek heritage lives on. One of the best things to do from 20 • Byways
Art deco in South Beach, where the celebrities come out. Photo courtesy VISIT FLORIDA. the Tarpon Springs Sponge Docks is take a boat tour that offers several delights. Tour the Anclote River and hear about Tarpon Springs history; gaze on the Gulf waters and spot dolphins. Enjoy a short stop on Anclote Key, a pristine white-sand barrier island reachable only by boat. Anclote Key is a state park with an 1887 lighthouse. These Florida boat tours give visitors a half hour to enjoy Anclote’s perfect sandy beaches (you’ll wish you could stay) and do not include visiting the lighthouse. Spongeorama’s Sponge Factory. Photo courtesy Leonard J. DeFrancisci.
2. Celebrity Spotting Off Miami Beach Entertainers, celebrity athletes, and other Miami millionaires pay big money for waterfront views from exclusive addresses. But those same waterfront views mean that from a boat you have an equally good view of palatial estates. Florida boat tours leaving from Miami’s festive Bayside Marketplace cruise by Fisher Hibiscus and Star Islands home to Sean Combs, Gloria Estefan, Rosie O'Donnell and Shaquille O'Neal among others. Visitors also get an up-close view of the Port of Miami and its giant cruise ships plus a postcard-like look at the Miami skyline. The 90-minute Island Queen cruise is on a 140-passenger double-decker boat. Ponce de Leon Light House. Photo courtesy ErgoSum88.
Fort Lauderdale Water Taxi. Photo courtesy VISIT FLORIDA.
3. Hop on/hop off a Water Taxi One of the best ways to get out on the water in the picturesque Halifax River and Ponce Inlet in New Smyrna Beach is by water taxi on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays. This isn’t a formal tour; instead the water taxi allows for a customized do-it-yourself tour. The water taxi costs $15 for adults and $10 for children for use all day. It follows a two-hour-and-15-minute route with five stops. You can get on and off for meals or sightseeing including the Ponce de Leon Lighthouse, the Marine Science Center, plus many waterfront restaurants, shops and galleries. You can bring your own food or drinks (no glass bottles) and enjoy a picnic while you watch for dolphins and see the New Smyrna area from the water. Miami, Hollywood and Fort Lauderdale are also served by an extensive water taxi system. An all-day pass is $20. There are 10 stops in Fort Lauderdale taking you to all the key visitor spots.
4. Discover the “Wild Man of the Loxahatchee” This boat tour takes you to a fascinating destination you can’t reach by land. Located inside Jonathan Dickinson State Park in Hobe Sound, the narrated tour on the Loxahatchee Queen II takes you down the junglelike Loxahatchee River which is worth the trip by itself. The highlight though is a visit to the home of Trapper Nelson, one of those fabulous characters who helped make Florida funky in the state’s early days. Nelson started out living off the land as a trapper and fur trader in the 1930s, but soon turned himself and his home into one of the area’s first tourist attractions, “Trapper’s Zoo and Jungle Gardens.” No public roads lead to Trapper Nelson’s site. Trips leave at 9am, 11am, 1pm and 3pm. Call 561-746-1466 for more information. Byways • 21
The Barbara-Lee at sunset. Photo courtesy St. John Rivership Co.
5. See Sunset From the Water in limpkin ibis, purple gallinules and more. The two-hour Key West cruise winds through shallow areas of the unspoiled rivKey West has turned the daily sunset into a celebration er and even when wildlife is scarce the guide offers lots and seeing the sun go down from a boat cruising offshore of history and information about the area. There are is a classic Key West memory. There are many from three trips a day in winter (two in the off-season.) which to choose: Some are party boats with DJs and 7. Be Like Bogie on the African Queen dancing. You can’t do this anywhere else: The African Queen The pirate-themed Jolly II Rover schooner with its jaunty red sails is BYOB. A historic option is Florida’s boat, the actual steamboat used in the 1951 movie starofficial flagship,, the Schooner Western Union. The sun- ring Humphrey Bogart and Katherine Hepburn, has been set cruise includes champagne, beer, wine or soft drinks. The Western Union is a 130-foot tall ship built in Key An Everglades airboat. Photo courtesy West in 1939 to tend the Western Union cable lines. The VISIT FLORIDA. schooner is currently under restoration and is not in Key West, but is planned to be sailing again next summer. The schooner trip lets you enjoy the view of Key West and nearby islands under golden end-of-day light. You can compare sunset cruise options during a scenic stroll through the Historic Key West Seaport. Watch for promotions and discounts. Many other Florida port cities offer sunset cruises as well, so explore options near where you’re staying.  6. Manatees and More on St. Johns One of the highpoints of a winter visit to Florida is a chance to see an endangered manatee in the wild. One of the best spots to do that is Blue Spring State Park in Orange City. When the weather is cold, the clear spring can attract hundreds of manatees. The St. Johns River Cruise leaves from the park and it specializes in helping you spot wildlife — not just manatees, but also alligators, bald eagles, osprey, herons, egrets, sandhill cranes, 22 • Byways
beautifully restored to take visitors on Key Largo cruises. Cruises are pricey – best for true fans yearning to sit exactly where Hepburn and Bogart did — but intimate. The boat is licensed to hold six passengers at a time. The 90-minute canal cruise leaves at 10 am, noon, 2pm, 4pm and 6pm. On Friday and Saturday nights there is a two-hour canal cruise that includes a three-course dinner at the Pilot House Restaurant and Marina.
8. Make Like Tarzan and Explore “The Black Lagoon” One of the largest springs in the world and the deepest in Florida, Wakulla Springs near Tallahassee has a rich history. There are mastodon bones in the bottom of the river and archeological sites along its shores and it was also the setting for several early Tarzan movies starring Johnny Weissmuller, as well as for the cult classic film “Creature from the Black Lagoon.” The guide on the boat tour in Edward Ball Wakulla Springs State Park tells tales of the mysterious spring (its source has never been located) while pointing out wildlife which is plentiful. Ancient bald cypress trees line the river. The boat tour is a three-mile loop that takes 45 minutes to an hour. The water rarely achieves the aquamarine clarity it once had, but when it does, it’s usually in late winter or early spring.
9. Find Serenity in Central Florida’s Winter Park Long before Mickey Mouse came to Orlando folks were enjoying “jungle cruises” in Orlando. The Winter Park Scenic Boat Tours started taking visitors through the lakes and canals of the Winter Park chain in 1938. On the tour you see lushly landscaped lakefront estates and ride through narrow canals. You’ll see boaters, wading birds, and the occasional alligator. Tour guides offer lots of stories about local history and the people who lived in the mansions plus a few corny jokes. The 18-passenger open-air pontoon boats provide a friendly intimate tour. Be sure to bring hats and sunscreen. Tours leave hourly.
10. Zip through the Everglades on an Airboat The loud flat-bottomed airboats that ride over water and swamp are unlike any other boat ride you’ll take. Invented by Alexander Graham Bell, airboats first came to Florida in the 1920s and have been a classic tourist experience ever since. Airboat tours take you into roadless areas to
Writer Earnest Hemingway’s Home in Key West. Photo courtesy Andreas Lamecker.
see wildlife, but a big part of the experience is the wind noise and thrilling speed. There are no airboat roads in Everglades National Park, but there are plenty of options throughout South and Central Florida. With so many airboat tours out there you should consult tourist offices near where you are staying for suggestions. Two long-time airboat operators are Cooperstown Airboats (in business since 1945) on the Tamiami Trail near the Shark Valley entrance to Everglades National Park and AirBoat Rides at Midway (operating since the 1930s) east of Orlando in Christmas.
Even More Florida Boat Tours A list of 10 boat tours doesn’t begin to cover all the possibilities so here are a few more ideas: •Glass-bottom boat tours let you see coral reefs at John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park in Key Largo without getting wet. •The oldest glass-bottom boat tour in Florida is at Silver Spring in Ocala. Once a private attraction, the spring and the boat tour are now part of Silver Springs State Park. Silver Springs was one of Florida’s original attractions. •Wildlife boat tours are popular at Everglades National Park both at the Everglades City entrance and at the Flamingo marina. •The Jungle Queen Riverboat cruise in Fort Lauderdale has been showing visitors the sites along the New River for more than 50 years. •Similarly historic, the Victory III has been cruising St. Augustine since 1949. For more information,visit: www.visitflorida.com/en-us.html Byways • 23
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Traveling the Highways & Byways with Bill Graves
Alabama’s Gulf Shores labama isn't known for its & Orange Beach beaches and ocean-front hangouts — a distance of 1,050 miles. The sheltered waterway proFlorida, its neighbor next- vides a channel with a depth of 12 feet, designed primary door, has a lock on that for barge traffic. It was completed in 1949. With some friends, I spent an afternoon boating on the notoriety. Waterway with Skip Beebee. He runs Sailaway Charters But what Alabama has at Gulf Shores and Orange and knows these waters well. He could see that I was Beach is spectacular — fascinated by the snub-nosed push boats maneuvering a miles of wide, sugar-sand chain of barges up the narrow canal. He said that the boats usually push four barges, somebeaches, warm breezes off times fewer. On their trek east, they are loaded with coal, the Gulf of Mexico and sometimes liquid fuel. Skip said that he had a push boat the biggest campground in the state — and probably the skipper on his boat one time. He told Skip that a few longest stretch of camp sites in the country at Gulf State barge loads of gasoline takes hundreds of tanker trucks Park. off the Interstate, apparently Five hundred RV sites pleased that he was easing trafspread out for almost three fic for the rest of us as well as miles on both sides of the a potential hazmat problem. Park’s main road. The Park Skip took the boat into Wolf has another eleven miles of Bay where we watched a dolpaved trails that are popular phin splashing around in shalwith bikers. In just a couple low water catching fish. He hours, I was able to see the would watch for a slight ripple whole park, joining a group on the water and would then with a guide, riding the bike tell us where the dolphin trails on a Segway. would come up next for air. The Segway is a twoPristine white beaches. Photos He was always right. wheeled, self-balancing, batcourtesy Bill Graves. He pulled up a crab pot of tery-powered vehicle that you his, marked with a float, to drive standing up. It was show us some crabs. Fresh crab is found in restaurants tricky stepping on at first, as I was not sure who was in control — the Gyroscopic sensors or me. Once I got the here year around. Then he took a long, two-handled hang of it, it was great, rolling along at 10 to 12 miles an claw and grabbed some oysters off the bottom. Skip said that oysters are filter feeders, drawing in hour. We stopped at a couple lakes and got pictures of an water from which they extract underway alligator. plankton and other stuff off The Park is centered in the bottom. An oyster can filthis long island that can be ter over a gallon of water an accessed via Pensacola, hour. “That’s why I don’t eat Florida, east of here and via Loxley, Alabama, off I-10, them raw,” he said. “But my to the north. On the island’s wife does.” Most of the beaches here are western tip there is a ferry public. During my stay, they that makes a 30-minute run were never crowded. Beach across the entrance to umbrellas and portable beach Mobile Bay. chairs were lined up a few feet The island, which is about back from the water’s edge, 42 miles long, is separated from the mainland by the but everybody had a front row Gulf Intercoastal Waterway seat. A sand castle here is at that runs from Brownsville, risk of a high tide, never a Segway Tour Skip Beebee Texas to Carrabelle, Florida, crowd. 24 • Byways
About the author: After seeing much of the world as a career naval officer, Bill Graves decided, after he retired, to take a closer look at the United States. He has been roaming the country for 20 years, much of it in a motorhome with his
dog Rusty. He lives in Rancho Palos Verdes, California and is the author of On the Back Roads, Discovering Small Towns. of America. He can be reached at Roadscribe@aol.com.
Welcome to Needles, where Historic Route 66 and the Colorado River meet in California.
Best Western Colorado River Inn
Free Hot Breakfast @Juicy’s Famous River Cafe Right Next Door!
2731 W. Broadway (Route 66) (760) 326-4552 Needles, California 92363 www.coloradoriverinn.com
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The beaches of South Padre Island on the Gulf of Mexico. Photos courtesy South Padre Island Convention & Visitors Bureau 26 • Byways
South Padre Island Blends White Sand, Blue Water With Year-Round Outdoor Adventure
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ith white sandy beaches and blue water, South Padre Island may seem more like a Caribbean getaway than part of the Texas Gulf Coast. The island’s location on the tropical tip of Texas, just 25 miles north of Mexico, provides a year-round beach getaway that draws visitors from all over the United States. South Padre Island is at the south end of Padre Island, the largest of the Texas barrier islands and the world’s longest barrier island. The island is located along Texas’southern coast of the Gulf of Mexico and is noted for its white sandy beaches at the south end. Meaning father in Spanish, it was named after Father José Nicolás Ballí (c.1770-1829), who owned the island and served as a missionary priest and collector of finances for all the churches in the Rio Grande Valley.
Second Largest U.S. Island
Padre Island is the second-largest island by area in the contiguous United States, after Long Island in New York on the Atlantic Coast. It is about 113 miles long and 1.8 miles wide, stretching from the city of Corpus Christi, in the north, to the resort community of South Padre Island in the south. More and more beach lovers are discovering this resort 28 • Byways
Sailing in the Gulf of Mexico. Photos courtesy South Padre Island Convention & Visitors Bureau.
town of 5,000 inhabitants. In fact, South Padre was named to TripAdvisor’s List of Top 25 Beaches in the U.S., based on opinions of millions of travelers. It also was named one of the top 10 U.S. beaches for families by Family Vacation Critic, one of the world’s top 30 island beaches by Condé Nast Traveler magazine and a top 10 beach by Men’s Fitness and Women’s Day magazines. Giant sea turtles also call South Miles of sugary, clean Padre Island home. beaches are the main attraction. The Island’s other offerings, including abundant wildlife, activities, family attractions and modern resort offers exhibits on birding and other natural features of amenities, make it a top destination for more than one the Island, along with a five-story viewing tower, viewing blinds and boardwalk nature trails. It offers a 5-story million overnighting visitors each year. tower with 360-degree views, plus exhibits, boardwalk nature trails and bird blinds. Boardwalk trails include Abundant Wildlife interpretive panels that provide interesting educational The Island is rich in wildlife viewing opportunities. More than 300 species of migratory birds stop here each insights. With over 360 recorded species, the island is year during spring and fall migrations, making South one of the premier birding locations in the Western Padre one of the best birding locations in the Western Hemisphere. For other birding opportunities, visitors can choose a Hemisphere. The Island’s wetlands provide a refuge for guided tour or visit one of the Island’s dedicated birding shorebirds and waterfowl. areas. The South Padre Island Birding & Nature Center Giant sea turtles also call South Padre Island home, including the Kemp’s Ridley, the world’s most endangered sea turtle. The turtles nest in the Island’s beaches, laying eggs in the spring that hatch in the fall. Islanders keep a close eye on the nests to protect and preserve the species. Visitors can see these appealing creatures upclose at Sea Turtle, Inc., a facility dedicated to rescuing and protecting marine turtles. Dolphin families live year-round in the waters off of the Island. The Island’s dolphin viewing tour providers boast a sighting success rate of nearly 100 percent due to the high number of dolphins in the Island’s waters.
Activities & Attractions
The Island lets visitors be as active as they want to be. On the western shore, the Laguna Madre Bay’s shallow, calm waters make it one of the safest places in the United States to learn to kiteboard or windsurf. Parasailing, snorkeling and unique deep sea diving opportunities also keep active travelers busy. With more than 600 different fish species inhabiting the Island’s waters, sport fishing is a favorite activity, from surfcasting to deep sea fishing. Nearly 2,000 anglers convene on the Island each August for two popular annual events, the Texas International Fishing Tournament and the Ladies Kingfish Tournament. Watersports for people of all ages and skill levels Byways • 29
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Fun in the surf and sand on South Padre Island. Photos courtesy South Padre Island Convention & Visitors Bureau. abound on the island. Enjoy kayaking, snorkeling, windsurfing, kiteboarding and stand up paddle boarding thanks to the calm, shallow waters of the Laguna Madre Bay. Attractions such as Schlitterbahn Beach Waterpark provide thrilling rides and access to marine life. It offers kid-friendly water playgrounds, interconnecting water rides, a five-story tall sandcastle, thrilling uphill water coasters and a man-made surfing wave. The Island Adventure Park offers horseback riding on the beach with daytime, sunset and moonlight rides. The riding center has a large selection of horses specifically trained to accommodate children and first-time riders. In addition, the park’'s newest attraction is zip-lines – for a unique way to experience the island. Black Dragon Cruises offers plenty of entertainment while educating guests on the ecological treasures of the area. Kids of all ages can take sand castle sculpting les30 • Byways
sons from one of the island’s master sand castle sculptors. Special events offer excitement throughout the year, from beach volleyball tournaments to Sand Castle Days, an annual competition every October that draws hundreds of amateur and professional sculptors to the Island’s beaches. As the official “Fireworks Capital of Texas,” the Island sets off a dazzling display over the bay every Friday night during summer, with additional shows on summer holidays. No resort getaway would be complete without golfing, shopping and spa offerings. The South
Padre Island Golf Club is only 15 minutes away. Specialty shops and boutiques boast unique offerings, while other stores offer vacation staples such as groceries, souvenirs and beach gear. The Island’s day spas pamper guests with therapies including massages, reiki, seaweed wraps and yoga.
Lodging and Dining on the Island
Accommodations on the Island offer options to suit any traveler’s plans. A vast selection of rental condos and homes are available, ideal for longer stays. National lodging chains and unique independent hotels and motels have a presence on the Island as well. Smaller bed-and-breakfast style properties offer a unique and elegant Island experience. The Island boasts restaurants from casual to upscale, all with a diverse range of offerings, but seafood is the town’s top specialty. Wild Texas Gulf shrimp are harvested in the region, and with the Island’s abundant sport fishing, many restaurants will cook an angler’s catch to order. South Padre Island plays many roles: family vacation destination, romantic island getaway, subtropical winter haven and spring break escape. The Island provides guests with everything they need to tailor their own custom beach vacation experience. For more information, visit: www.sopadre.com.
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San Diego’s Sparkling Beach Town Life
A gorgeous sunset in La Jolla, the multifaceted “Jewel of San Diego”. Photo courtesy sandiego.org. Byways • 33
A spectacular view of downtown San Diego from Point Loma. Photo courtesy Joanne DiBona.
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laid-back vintage vibe. Popular activities include sunbathing, surfing, skateboarding at Robb Field Skate Park and strolling numerous surf stores, taco shops, thrift boutiques and the largest concentration of antique shops in San Diego along Newport Ave. and Voltaire St. Must-sees: OB Pier, the longest concrete pier on the west coast, stretches a half mile out to sea and is a favorite fishing spot. At popular Dog Beach, visitors watch tail-wagging dogs of all kinds frolic in the surf offleash. Can’t-Miss Event: The Annual Ocean Beach Street Fair & Chili Cook-Off Festival is held in June features zesty chili tasting, art, beachfront entertainment, shopGet Groovy in Ocean Beach ping and more from sunup to sundown. Located north of Point Loma, the eclectic vintage Best Bites: An OB institution for almost 50 years, beach town of Ocean Beach (OB), which still retains its 1960s feel, welcomes everyone with its friendly and Hodad’s serves up one of San Diego’s most mouthwaith more than 260 days of sunshine and 70 miles of sparkling coastline, San Diego definitely lives up to its reputation as California’s beach city. Tucked along this impressive stretch of sand are several vibrant beach communities with a style and personality of their own, where visitors can explore, let loose or just relax and experience the area like a local. The following are five favorite and distinct beach neighborhoods for visitors to discover, offering something for every type of visitor.
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tering hamburgers with a side of crunchy “frings” (onion rings and French fries). Top Sunset Spot: Nearby Sunset Cliffs, with its sculpted sandstone bluffs, transforms into a palette of vibrant oranges and reds as the sun dips into the Pacific Ocean.
SeaWorld San Diego.
Make a Splash in Mission Bay
Located just minutes from downtown, the 4,600-acre Mission Bay is the largest man-made aquatic park in the world and home to SeaWorld San Diego, 27 miles of tranquil shoreline, soft sand beaches, bicycling paths, grassy parks for picnicking and barbecuing, and endless water activities from stand up paddle boarding and kayaking to sailing and jet skiing. Must-sees: Guests can cruise Mission Bay aboard the Bahia Belle, a historic sternwheeler that by night
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becomes San Diego’s only floating nightclub. The new Ocean Explorer land at SeaWorld features exciting marine life encounters and a Submarine Quest ride. Can’t-Miss Event: Closer than a trip to the tropics, the Catamaran Resort offers Polynesian food and culture during the annual Sunset Luaus, June thru September. Best Bites: The first Rubio’s restaurant opened in 1983 in Mission Bay and introduced the world to “the original fish taco,” a tasty Baja food staple that is synonymous with San Diego beach culture. Taking seafood to another level, the Seafood Tower at Oceana Coastal Kitchen brims with the freshest, most delicious bounty of the sea. Top Sunset Spot: Fine dining and boutique wines pair perfectly with stunning sunsets along the bayside patio deck of Tidal restaurant at the Paradise Point Resort.
Bustling Mission Beach
Located adjacent to Mission Bay, San Diego’s classic boardwalk beach town of Mission Beach resonates with a lively, youthful energy along nearly two miles of oceanfront paths and a multitude of shops, restaurants and bars along Mission Blvd. The bustling boardwalk is perfect for inline skating, beach cruiser cycling or people watching. Anchored by Belmont Park amusement park, there’s plenty of beach36 • Byways
Mission Beach Boardwalk. Photo courtesy Joanne DiBona.
front fun in addition to soaking up the sun. Must-sees: The Giant Dipper wooden roller coaster at Belmont Park, one of the top 12 historic roller coasters in the U.S. (USA Today), is as thrilling today as it was when it opened in 1925. Best Bites (and Brews): Sandbar Sports Bar & Grill is famous for winning “best fish tacos” at the San Diego Bay Wine & Food Festival. Tapping into San Diego’s celebrated craft beer scene, Draft serves dozens of local beers on tap and is a hot spot for a beachside brunch. Top Sunset Spot: The pool-themed decor of Cannonball, the largest oceanfront rooftop restaurant in San Diego, provides prime sunset viewing while enjoying delicious and inventive sushi and more. Insider Tip: For a respite from the bustling boardwalk, head to the wider South Mission Beach, which offers lots of room to spread out on the sand or join in some beach volleyball.
Surf-centric Imperial Beach
The southernmost beach town in California, located five miles north of the U.S./Mexico border, Imperial Beach (IB) features a 4-mile stretch of beach offering gnarly surfing, sport fishing, beach volleyball and horseback riding -- the only beach in San Diego where visitors can ride a horse. IB is also a bicyclist’s dream; the new Bikeway Village offers a shopping and dining pit stop
Whale Watching. Photo courtesy Joanne DiBona.
along the Bayshore Bikeway, which winds around San Diego Bay. Must-sees: IB Pier provides panoramic views of downtown San Diego to the north and Los Coronados Islands off the coast. Nearby Tijuana River National Estuary, the largest salt water marsh in Southern California, is a top birding spot with scenic nature trails for wildlife viewing. Can’t-Miss Event: In late July, dozens of dogs take to the waves of IB during the annual Surf Dog Competition, America’s premier dog surfing event attracting thousands of spectators. Best Bites: The Tin Fish on the IB Pier serves up sweeping views, as well as tasty fish and chips. For fine dining, the new SEA180 Coastal Tavern makes a splash with Baja-Mediterranean fare. Top Sunset Spot: Paying homage to IB’s proud surfing heritage, the landmark “Surfhenge” surfLa Jolla Village, featuring boutique shopping and fine board sculpture at the pier entrance is a great vantage dining along Prospect St. and a pristine cove for swimpoint to watch the sun create a kaleidoscope of color. ming, snorkeling and tidepooling. Visitors can relax on one of the 10 surfboard benches sitMile-long La Jolla Shores, with its surf shops, kayak uated about the plaza. tours and iconic oceanfront dining. The Torrey Pines mesa, home of the world-renowned Picture-perfect La Jolla Torrey Pines Golf Course, award-winning spas, Torrey La Jolla, the multifaceted “Jewel of San Diego,” shines Pines Gliderport (North America’s largest tandem with a variety of beaches ranging from expansive shore- paragliding/hang gliding site), Torrey Pines State lines to scenic coves and sea bluffs. La Jolla features Natural Reserve, Birch Aquarium at Scripps and the three distinct areas to explore.
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Torrey Pines cliffs and beach at sunset. Photo courtesy Annie Pearson.
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Ice skating by the sea at Hotel Del Coronado. Photo courtesy sandiego.org.
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La Jolla Children’s Pool. Photo courtesy Lisa Field.
Tony Award-winning La Jolla Playhouse. Must-sees: Sunny Jim Cave, the only known land access sea cave on the California coast, offers a mini adventure in the heart of La Jolla Village, which can be accessed through the Cave Store. The Children’s Pool, a sandy, crescent-shaped cove south of La Jolla Cove, is home to dozens of seals, offering fantastic photo ops from the seawall. Can’t-Miss Event: Green Flash Concert Series on Tide Pool Plaza at the Birch Aquarium, June thru September. It features live music, savory bites, craft beers and wine. (At sunset, be on the lookout for a real “green flash,” a rare optical phenomenon when the sun glows green for a couple of seconds just before dipping into the sea.)
Best Bites: The landmark Marine Room with its dramatic on-the-sand location and exquisite global-inspired menu has wowed diners for more than 75 years. For casual al fresco fare and craft cocktails with amazing views, head to the rooftop Ocean Terrace at George’s at the Cove. Top Sunset Spot: The historic, Instagram-worthy thatched-roof surf shack at La Jolla’s Windansea Beach frames the sunset perfectly as ocean waves crash against the rocky reefs. For more information, visit: https://www.sandiego.org Torrey Pines Golf Course overlooks the Pacific. Photo courtesy sandiego.org.
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Crystal River Scalloping
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The eco-friendly Plantation on Crystal River is surrounded by the natural springs of King’s Bay and more than 25,000 surface acres of pristine lakes and rivers. Photos courtesy Plantation on Crystal River.
• Guided scalloping tour including mask, snorkel and fins with one of the area’s top captains • Souvenir bag with mesh scalloping bag, scallop recipes and water • Chef will prepare the cleaned fresh day’s harvest (scallops or fish) for lunch or dinner and serve with two sides. • Breakfast daily • Ramp launch, trailer storage and seawall tie for those bringing their own boat. Seawall tie is first come-first serve. The eco-friendly Plantation on Crystal River is surrounded by the natural springs of King’s Bay and more than 25,000 surface acres of pristine lakes and rivers, as well as wildlife refuges and state parks. On site, the Plantation features a full-service family-oriented dive and tour operation marina, 12,000 square feet of meeting and event space, 18-hole golf course, 9-hole executive course, Aveda spa, delectable dining and inviting accommodations. Guests have the unique opportunity to swim with the manatees, rent a pontoon or Jon boat, relax by the riverfront pool, enjoy a game of croquet on the manicured lawn, or hire a guided fishing charter. A popular activity for families, scalloping is Scalloping-Up Close
calloping season commences on July 1 this year in Crystal River and Plantation on Crystal River, a hidden gem on Florida’s Nature Coast, is offering guided and non-guided scalloping deals packed full of value. Guided scalloping package rates are available for midweek stays and includes: • Two-night stay in a garden or water view deluxe room, patio room or golf villa
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Only two to three inches in length and located inside a fan-shaped shell, the scallops can be easy to spot with their 30-40 bright blue eyes, but provide a good chase, since all those eyes help them detect predators. If guests choose not to book the scalloping package, they can still get their scallops cooked. For just $13.95 per person, Executive Chef David Bolanos at West 82 Bar & Grill will prepare guests’ shucked scallops during dinner one of four ways: scampi style, au gratin, sautéed in lemon butter or Chef’s choice. The meal also comes with two sides.
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Manatee and man at play.
like snorkeling, but with the simple addition of a mesh bag for storing the harvest. Most scallops can be found in the
Lunch is also available for $10.95 per person and includes cole slaw & French fries. For more information on Plantation on Crystal River, shallow grass flats of the Gulf of Mexico that range visit PlantationonCrystalRiver.com or call 800-6326262. anywhere from three to six feet deep.
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Universal’s Water Theme Park Volcano Bay Is Now Open
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Waturi Beach and Krakatau Volcano.
niversal’s Volcano Bay has officially opened becoming Universal Orlando's third theme park. The park’s first guests gathered inside the new water theme park to enjoy an authentic South Pacific dedication ceremony commemorating the opening of Volcano Bay. Volcano Bay is Universal Orlando’s third theme park and the next chapter in the award-winning vacation destination’s evolution. Universal Orlando is part of the NBCUniversal Comcast family, which has invested significantly in the destination’s unprecedented growth. In just seven years, 25 new experiences — entire themed areas, attractions, restaurants, and hotels — have been added across the destination. Universal Orlando now has 5,600 rooms across its five (soon to be six) on-site hotels. Volcano Bay was brought to life by Universal Creative, the same team responsible for bringing so many other groundbreaking experiences to life within Universal Studios Florida and Universal’s Islands of Adventure. Volcano Bay is a next-level water theme park, combining spectacular storytelling and incredibly immersive guest experiences with innovative technology exclusively designed for Universal to give visitors a funfilled, hassle-free experience with their friends and family. “Universal’s Volcano Bay sets a new standard on every level — from the attractions to how our guests experi42 • Byways
Taniwha Tubes at Volcano Bay. Photos courtesy Universal Orlando.
ence them,” said Tom Williams, Chairman & CEO, Universal Parks & Resorts. “Our new water theme park is the perfect complement to the rest of our incredible destination. It provides our guests with spectacular entertainment experiences and innovative technology that helps them enjoy more of what matters most — connecting with each other and having an amazing time together.” Spanning 25 fully immersive acres and featuring something for everyone — from perfected relaxation to incredible thrills — Volcano Bay is unlike any other water park in world. It offers an immersive environment filled with unbelievable detail and innovative technology to enhance fun and remove hassles. Volcano Bay features: •More than 30 experiences including 18 unique attractions such as a multi-directional wave pool with sandy beaches, a peaceful winding river, twisting multi-rider raft rides, speeding body slides that drop from the top of the volcano into the waters below and more. •The TapuTapu wearable, included with guest admission and specifically designed for use within Universal's Volcano Bay. Features of TapuTapu include: • Virtual Line Access: TapuTapu allows guests to virtually wait in line for rides while enjoying other areas of the park. Their wearable will simply alert them when it’s time for their ride.
Krakatau Aqua Coaster.
• TapTu Play: Guests can enjoy many TapTu Play experiences throughout the park—like controlling streams of water spurting from whales in Tot Tiki Reef, shooting water cannons at guests snaking down Kopiko Wai Winding River, illuminating images in the volcano’s hidden caves and more. • TapTu Pay: Guests can make purchases throughout the entire park with their TapuTapu wearable, eliminating the need to carry cash, credit cards or a wallet throughout the park. • TapTu Snap/My Universal Photo Access: Guests can take advantage of special interactive photo opportunities and selfie-spots throughout the park as well as photo opportunities on Volcano Bay’s attractions. Their wearable will automatically link those photos to their account so that guests can view, share and purchase them at their convenience. • Locker Access: After renting their lockers, guests will be able to access them with a touch of their TapuTapu wearable. Beautifully-themed dining locations feature more than 60 delicious, South Pacific-inspired dishes — ranging from jerk mahi sandwiches to fresh island chicken salad to decadent chocolate pineapple upside down cake. For more information about Universal's Volcano Bay, visit www.universalorlando.com. Byways • 43
Byways is published bi-monthly by Byways, Inc. and distributed electronically throughout North America. Byways is emailed to more than 4000 tour operators /Travel Trade through the Internet. Subscriptions are complimentary. An iPad & iPhone version is available for consumers in iTunes in the App Store. An Android browser version is available at www.issuu.com/byways. Byways’ distribution includes motorcoach companies, tour operators, selected travel agents, bank travel managers, school band and athletic planners, meeting planners and the travel trade. For advertising rates, editorial deadlines, or to place advertising insertions, contact: Byways Magazine at 502-785-4875. ©Copyright 2017 by Byways, Inc. All rights reserved. No portion of this publication may be duplicated in any form without express written permission of the publisher. Editor and Publisher Stephen M. Kirchner
Advertising Director 502-785-4875
Internet bywaysmagazine.com byways@motorcoach.com Byways on Facebook Byways on Twitter
Advertisers Index Bedford Tourism & Welcome Center, Virginia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Best Western Colorado River Inn, California . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 Brenham/Washington County, Texas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
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Jamestown-Yorktown Foundation, Virginia. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 Louisville Convention & Visitors Bureau, Kentucky . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Randolph County, West Virginia. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Ross-Chillicothe Convention & Visitors Bureau, Ohio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Silverado Casino/Franklin Hotel, South Dakota . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 Springfield Tourism, Kentucky. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
United States Naval Academy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
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