Byways Mountains & Valleys 2019

Page 1

Featuring North America’s Leading Travel Destinations

Mountains & Valleys 2019 Explore New York’s Scenic Hudson Valley Woodstock at 50 75th Anniversary of D-Day Set in Virginia Colorado’s Royal Gorge Santa Maria Valley –- Experience Old California Nevada City, in the Sierra Nevada


r Video Click fo

Byways • 2


Instant Connect

Direct one-click digital links to our Advertisers TOP 8 REASONS TO TOUR

COLORA ADO SPRINGS

Colorado Springs is a yearr-round tour destination boasting g mild temperatures, more than 300 da ay ys of blue skies and spectacularr scenery. Create intriguing tours att unforgettable destinations like Garden o of the Gods Park and the U.S. Air Force e Academy.

We believe in visionaries who can turn a bus b tour into an expedition n. Pioneers who know that “sightseeing s � is about wha at you feel just as much as it is i what you see. Optimistss who are only over-booked when w they ’ve packed too mu uch to read. We don’t believe e in tourists.

We believe in explorerrs.

01

Western He We Heritage - Discover the deep roots of the Pik kes Peak or Bust Gold Ru Rush exploring g old mines.

02

All Aboard Ab d - Tr Trek th hrough Cripple Creek and along a the Arkansas River in the Royal Gorge on historic trains.

03

The Great Outdoors - Adventure is alwa ayys close by witth thousands of miles of trails and op pen spaces.

04

Arts Scene - Enjoy hundreds h of public sculptures, ga alleries, art walks, classes and pe erformances.

05

All Seasons - From colorful fall days to spring blooms, the region shines with a year-round mild climate.

06

Olympic City US USA - See where Team USA dreams arre born at the Te Colorado Springs Ollympic Training Center. Tr

07

55+ - With more thaan 55 unique attractions, it’s easy to plan multi-day itineraries in the Pikes Peak region.

08

Cultural Experien nces - Soak in the region’s multii-faceted culture at museums, historic sites and festivals.

PLAN YOUR T TOUR > Floy Kennedy Director of Tr Travel Industry Salees Floy@VisitCOS.com 719.685.7635 Garden of the Gods Park a

Everyone wanted e to be here in 1969. %$#"! ! The 1969 Woodstock festival may m have put us on the international map p, but we were popular long before a half million people showed up.

Toda o y, the free-spirited fun lives on.. We’re home to some of the world’s most unique attractions perfect for groups, families, friends and a couples: • • • • • • • • •

The USA’s Most Modern, State-of-the-Art Indoor n Waterpark New Yo ork State’s Largest Class 3 Destination n Re esort Casino The h Only O l We ellness ll Center of its it Ki Kind d in i the th U.S. S Home of the 1969 Woodst o ock festival—a National Register Historic Site The Delaware: The Only River Designated a National Park Location of The Only Museum Dedicated to the ’60s Birthplace of Dry Fly Fishing Home to One of the Largest American Eagle e Nesting Populations in the Northeast Hand Crafted Brews Made with Pure Catskill Mountain Water

#! #! ! ! # ! #! ! ! ! ! 1.800.882.CATS SullivanCatskills..com

ÂŽ I LOVE NEW YORK logo is a registered trademark/servic s e mark of the NYS Dept. of Economic Development, used with permissio on.

UNLIMITED REINVENTED

PLUS, CHOOSE ONE OF THESE PREMIUM SERVICES WITH THE AT&T UNLIMITED &MORE PREMIUM PLAN*. SM

*Add to AT&T Unlimited &More Premium plan. Video may be ltd to SD. Must add TV benefits & Premium Add-on option at attwatchtv.com/verifywatchtv. Streaming limits apply. Content, programming and channels subj. to change. Add’l charges, usage, speed & other restr’s apply. See below for details.

CALL NOW and ask about Next Day Installation.

Iv Support Holdings LLC 500 West Putnam Ave, Greenwich, CT 06830

855-810-0872

AT&T UNLIMITED &MORE PREMIUM PLAN: Avail. to elig. customers only. Plan starts at $80/mo. after autopay & paperless bill discount w/in 2 bills. Enroll in both to get discount. Multiple Phone Line Discount: Monthly $15 (3 lines) or $30 (4 or more lines) discount applied to plan charge w/in 2 bills. Limits: After 22GB of data usage on a line in a bill cycle, for the remainder of the cycle, AT&T may temporarily slow data speeds on that line during times of network congestion. Select devices only, 10/plan. See att.com/unlimited for plan details & pricing. Wireless Streaming: Plan includes Stream Saver which limits wireless streaming to max of 1.5 Mbps (to stream in HD (up to 1080p) when avail., turn Stream Saver off). Details at att.com/streamsaver. Streaming ability & resolution vary and are affected by other factors. Tethering/Mobile Hotspot: Includes up to 15GB per line/mo. After 15GB, tethering speed will be slowed to max of 128 Kbps except for Connected Cars. WATCHTV: Add to &More Premium plan. To add, you must create account at attwatchtv.com/verifywatchtv, verify your wireless account & then you can access through WatchTV app or compatible browser. May require verification via text msg. Req’s compatible device (sold separately). WatchTV subject to its own terms & conditions, see attwatchtv.com/terms-and-conditions for details. Included channels, programming & content subj. to change & benefit may be terminated. Lost Eligibility: If you cancel elig. wireless svc, you lose access to WatchTV. Limits: Access to one WatchTV acct/wireless acct. Limit 1 concurrent stream with WatchTV. May not be stackable. Use only in the DCA. CHOOSE ONE: Elig. customers can add to AT&T Unlimited &More Premium for no extra charge. Use only in the DCA. Must create acct at attwatchtv.com/verifywatchtv, verify your wireless acct & then select your one add-on. Music apps not avail. to Puerto Rico or U.S. Virgin Islands customers. May require verification via text msg. Req’s compatible device (sold separately). May require acct creation and acceptance of third-party terms & conditions for certain add-on choices. Access to add-on is for 12 months; then may select new add-on option for next 12 months. Customers w/ elig. AT&T TV svc also get Premium movie channel selection on that platform, which is billed & credited w/in 2 bills. Premium movie channel access ltd to WatchTV app only for customers in Puerto Rico and U.S. Virgin Islands, and for certain MDU customers. Included channels, programming and/or content subject to change and benefit may be terminated. Lost Eligibility: Upon cancellation of elig. wireless plan you may lose access. Limits: Access to one add-on per elig. wireless account. May not be stackable. AT&T employees, retirees & IMO consumers are not eligible for the autopay & paperless bill discount, adding WatchTV at no extra charge or the &More Premium add-on. Offer, programming, pricing, channels, terms & restrictions subject to change and may be discontinued at any time without notice. GEN. WIRELESS: Subj. to Wireless Customer Agmt at att.com/wca. Svc not for resale. Credit approval, deposit, active and other fees, monthly & other charges per line apply. See plan details & att.com/additionalcharges for more. Coverage & svc not avail. everywhere. International & domestic off-net data may be at 2G speeds. Other restr’s apply & may result in svc termination. AT&T svc is subj. to AT&T network management policies, see att.com/broadbandinfo for details. HBO,ÂŽ CinemaxÂŽ and related channels and service marks are the property of Home Box Office, Inc. SHOWTIMEÂŽ is a registered trademark of Showtime Networks Inc., a CBS company. You must be a SHOWTIME subscriber to get SHOWTIME ANYTIMEÂŽ and watch programs online. STARZÂŽ and related channels and service marks are the property of Starz Entertainment, LLC. Visit starz.com for airdates/times. Amazon, Amazon Music, and all related logos and motion marks are trademarks of Amazon.com, Inc. or its affiliates. The Walking Dead: Š2018 AMC Network Entertainment LLC. All Rights Reserved. Š2018 Viacom International Inc. All Rights Reserved. Š2018 AT&T Intellectual Property. All Rights Reserved. AT&T, Globe logo, DIRECTV and all other DIRECTV marks contained herein are trademarks of AT&T Intellectual Property and/or AT&T affiliated companies. All other marks are the property of their respective owners.

Byways Magazine ŠCopyright 2019 by Byways, Inc. All rights reserved. No portion of this publication may be duplicated in any form without express written permission of the publisher. For more than 36 years, Byways has been covering the leading destinations along the highways and byways of North America. Some of the most well-known, and least known, destinations to discover in the United States and Canada. Byways is published in three versions. The is the Turn-Key edition on the web for viewing on Computers, Android, iOS (iPhone and iPad). There is an Apple App Store edition. There is also a Byways Magazine Channel in Apple News. A Byways Podcast is available on major podcast apps, including the Apple Podcast app. For advertising rates, editorial deadlines, or to place advertising insertions, contact: Byways Magazine 502-785-4875 or Email http://bywaysmagazine.com Byways • 3


PREVIEW By Steve Kirchner, Editor & Publisher

Moving west takes us to the Royal Gorge Canyon of ust 90 minutes north of New York Colorado. Being one of the deepest canyons in City, the journey begins in Dutchess County in the heart of Colorado, it is also known as the Grand Canyon of the Arkansas River, with a maximum depth of 1,250 ft. New York’s Hudson Valley. The Royal Gorge is just 46 miles, less than an hour Here you can experience the natural drive from Colorado Springs. scenic beauty that inspired America’s See where you can dig up prehistoric glimpses of the first arts movement, aristocrats’ country dinosaurs that once roamed these parts. estates, and became the birthplace of American wine. Garden Park, just north of Cañon City, is where paleFifty years ago, in August 1969, just west of the ontologists in the 1870s uncovered the first of many fosHudson Valley, one of the most celebrated music festivals in history took place in the Catskill Mountains of sils that would be found in the area. Mary Charlebois takes us further west to Santa Maria New York State. Valley, to experience Old California. Located in Central It was billed as “Three Days of Peace and Music”. California, the valley is borAfter Woodstock, Wallkill and dered on the east by Santa a number of other sites for the Lucia Mountains and to the festival withdrew, the event was west by the Pacific Ocean. moved to dairy farmer Max Mary says the Santa Maria Yasgur’s farm in Bethel. By the Valley will put you in touch late 1960s, Yasgur was the largest with Old California, a place of milk producer in Sullivan wide-open vistas, good food, County. lovely wine, and fantastic peoPromoters estimated 50,00 ple. people would attend. In fact, Traveling to the foothills of more than 400,000 showed up, the Sierra Nevada mountains, and it became not only the largest the next stop is Nevada City, music festival, but also the largest Hudson Valley Coldpressed Sunflower California. Whether it is the traffic jam in New York history. lure of four seasons of outdoor But Woodstock became much more than a music fesadventures, unmatchable Gold Rush history or just the tival, the phrase “the Woodstock generation” became simple charm and allure of a pristine Victorian town, part of the common lexicon. your visit will be memorable. Boston’s highest elevation is only 319 feet, but it does In his column, Bill Graves take us to Chimayo, New have a number of hills and valleys, which is why we’ve Mexico. He is here to see an old, adobe church –- a included it in this issue. Pat Woods spent 40 hours shrine built in 1816 — called Santuario de Chimayo. exploring the city prior to departing on a New England Miraculous healing is believed to occur here where a Cruise. Pat says Boston is a very walkable city. Its narrow wooden crucifix was pulled from the ground in 1813. During Holy Week, this is the site of the largest relistreets, historic buildings and downtown waterfront are gious pilgrimage in the country. worth exploring. If you like history, walk your way In What’s Happening, we learn the John Deere through time on the 2.5-mile Freedom Trail. Along the Pavilion, John Deere Tractor & Engine Museum and the way visit some of 16 colonial and revolutionary landJohn Deere Historic Site recently launched a new passmarks including the Old State House, Paul Revere’s port program designed to help guests commemorate their House, and Old North Church. In Virginia, we learn of the D-Day Memorial’s com- trips to the attractions, as well as other John Deere locamemoration of the 75th Anniversary of D-Day in tions. The passport provides a fun and interactive way to visNormandy, France. it and experience all John Deere has to offer. Why is this taking place in Virginia? Learn more We hope you enjoy this issue of Byways. about one of the country’s top military memorials, and why it is located in the Blue Ridge Mountains of Virginia.

J

Byways • 4


Video r o f k c i Cl

Byways • 5


r Video Click fo

6 • Byways


Volume 36, Issue No. 2 2019 On the cover. New York’s Hudson River Valley and the Catskill Mountains are visible from the air during an Old Rhinebeck Aerodrome Biplane ride. For more on the Hudson Valley, turn to page 8.

Features Mountains & Valleys . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 Explore New York’s Scenic Hudson Valley . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 Woodstock at 50 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 40 Hours in Boston . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 Commemoration of 75th Anniversary of D-Day Set in Virginia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 Colorado’s Royal Gorge Region . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 Santa Maria Valley — Experience Old California . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 Welcome to Nevada City, in the Foothills of the Sierra Nevada . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46

Departments Byways Instant Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 Byways Preview. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 Traveling the Highways & Byways with Bill Graves . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 Advertisers Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56

What’s Happening John Deere Attractions Launch New Passport Program . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 Coming in future issues of Byways ... Oceans, Rivers & Lakes, Great American Roads, Dams & Bridges, and much more!

Next Up: Oceans. At right, In St. Lucie, Florida’s rich heritage of cattle ranchers and equine activities have continued on through today’s recreational horseback riding opportunities that are available to all.

Byways • 7


Mountains & Valleys

New York’s Hudson Valley, looking west to the Hudson River and the Catskill Mountains. Photo courtesy Michael Coluccio. 8 • Byways


Explore New York’s Scenic Hudson Valley

Byways • 9


Sweeping valley views on the Wethersfield Estate. Photos courtesy Dutchess Tourism.

O

nly 90 minutes north of Manhattan is beautiful Dutchess County, located in the heart of New York’s Hudson River Valley. The natural scenic beauty offers a stunning backdrop to a region filled with impressive historic sites, an abundance of outdoor recreation, a vibrant culinary scene, and world-class cultural attractions. Experience the breathtaking landscape that inspired America’s first arts movement, aristocrats’ country estates, and became the birthplace of American wine.

“cup” gardens at Innisfree Garden — with its sublime composition of rock, water, wood and sky, it is recognized as one of world’s “ten best gardens”. Walk, bike, or even rollerblade the Walkway Over the Hudson. Spanning 1.28 miles, the bridge towers 212 feet above water for a bird’s eye view of the Hudson River and nearby Catskill Mountains. The Walkway is the longest elevated pedestrian bridge in the world and is celebrating its 10th anniversary as a state historic park.

The Great Outdoors With 350 miles of trails throughout Dutchess County, there are many ways to view the picturesque landscape, from a gentle ramble to a challenging climb. Lace up your boots for the Appalachian Trail, hike to the top of Ferncliff Forest or Mount Beacon for fire tower views, or explore the stunning rock formations at Dover Stone Church. If a garden stroll is more your style — visit the formal gardens of Wethersfield Estate with sweeping valley views — or the meditative 10 • Byways

The Appalachian Trail in Dutchess County, New York.


Hiking Mount Beacon overlooking the Hudson River. Photo courtesy Dutchess Tourism.

Video r o f k c i Cl

Just south on the Hudson is Bannerman Castle Island Annual outdoor events include the Hudson Valley Hot— the Scottish-style castle which was built in the early Air Balloon Festival, July 12-14 and the Dutchess 1900s by Frank Bannerman, VI to store his collection of County Fair, August 20-25, with games, rides, crafts and military surplus artifacts. Access the island by kayak or gourmet foods, exhibits, the Century Museum Village, by boat for a guided tour around the castle, residence and agriculture and horticultural displays, and live entertainrestored gardens. ment, both at the Dutchess County Fairgrounds in Set amidst rolling hills and horse farms is Orvis Rhinebeck. Sandanona, the oldest permitted shotgun shooting club in the counHudson Valley Hot-Air Balloon Festival. try, with a nationally-acclaimed sporting-clays course, stocked ponds, a private trout stream and professional guides and instructors. Take to the skies for ultimate views in an open-air biplane ride at Old Rhinebeck Aerodrome. Every weekend from mid-June through mid-October, the living history museum puts on amazing airshows with vintage aircraft from the Pioneer Era through WWI and the Golden Age of Aviation. Their extensive collection features the most authentic flying replica of The Spirit of St. Louis, as well as, their 1909 Bleriot, the oldest flying plane in the world. Byways • 11


Bicyclists enjoy the Walkway Over the Hudson. Photos courtesy Dutchess Tourism.

Arts & Culture Your art journey begins with the Frances Lehman Loeb Art Center at Vassar College. Vassar was the first college or university in the country to include an art museum as part of its original plan. View works by notable European and American twentieth-century artists and an important group of Hudson River School paintings. Then spend the day wandering the galleries at Dia:Beacon, a 300,000-square-foot space situated along the banks of the Hudson. Experience large scale contemporary art by the likes of Robert Irwin, Richard Serra,

Michael Heizer, Michelle Stuart and Anne Truitt. Summertime brings the annual Bard SummerScape, June 29-August 18, featuring the Spiegeltent and Bard Music Festival. This year it’s Korngold and His World presents seven weeks of opera, dance, music, theater, cabaret, and film. The area’s most iconic historic figure is Franklin D. Roosevelt, the 32nd President of the United States and the only president to be elected to four terms. A trip to his Hyde Park estate invites you for a tour of the Home of Franklin D. Roosevelt National Historic Site. Also

r Video o f k c i l C

12 • Byways

Millbrook Vineyards & Winery.


locat.ed on the grounds is the FDR Presidential Library & Museum, an immersive, interaction museum offering self-guided tours. Their exhibit D-Day: FDR & Churchill’s “Mighty Endeavor” runs May 25December 31, 2019 and will focus on the debates and decisions that led to the Normandy invasion. Its climax will be a detailed look at how FDR and Churchill experienced the tense days and hours that preceded— and followed—June 6, 1944. Nearby is Eleanor Roosevelt’s Val-Kill, the only National Historic Site dedicated to a First Lady. The cottage tours offer insights into the life of one of the world’s most influential women.

The Food Scene The majestic Hudson River is actually a tidal estuary responsible for rich soil of glacial deposits of slate, schist, shale and limestone, making it one of the most complex geological regions in the world. The cliffs of The Palisades near Manhattan funnel maritime air up from the Atlantic Ocean creating great growing conditions for a variety of apples, grapes, vegetables, grains, hops, and hay. Farm-to-table dining is far from a trend in the Hudson Valley, it’s a way of life. With talented chefs in restaurants across the region and surrounded by hundreds of family-owned farms, you are never far from a farm fresh meal. Thanks to the winemaking skills of the French Huguenots during the 1600s, the Hudson Valley became the country’s first wine region. Now there are multiple awardwinning wineries, distilleries, breweries and even hard cideries to discover on the Dutchess Craft Beverage Trail. There are farms like historic Fishkill Farms (FDR once took Winston Churchill there for a visit) where you can shop their market and even pick-yourown; Sprout Creek Farm offering tours, experiential education and lively interaction with their goats, cows, ducks and chickens; and Soukup Farms, a 3rd generation maple syrup producer that hosts

Bard Montgomery Place. weekend events, tours and samples of their sweet maple goods. A visit to Dutchess County just isn’t complete without a trip to The Culinary Institute of America – the premier culinary college in the United States. The CIA trains students from around the world with a graduating class nearly every three weeks. Take a student-guided tour to go behind-the-scenes of student chef life, then enjoy fine dining at one of their four public restaurants. Annual culinary events include the Hudson Valley Wine & Food Fest, September 7 & 8 in Rhinebeck, and the Hudson River Craft Beer Festival, September 14th in Beacon. Visit DutchessTourism.com to learn more! Soukup Maple Syrup Farm.

Byways • 13


Video r o f k c i Cl

14 • Byways


United States Naval Academy Undergraduate College of the U.S. Navy Guided Walking Tours include the Naval Academy Chapel, Crypt of John Paul Jones, Statue of Tecumseh and the history and traditions of the U.S. Naval Academy, Annapolis, MD. HISTORICAL, EDUCATIONAL, JEWISH CHAPEL AND MILITARY REUNION TOURS

Naval Academy Gift Shop, Restrooms, Exhibits, Film U.S. Naval Academy

r Click fo

Video

Armel-Leftwich Visitor Center (410) 293-8112 Scheduling (410) 293-3365 (fax) www.usnabsd.com/for-visitors Visitor Center Hours January-February: 9 am - 4 pm March-December 9 am - 5 pm Photo ID required, ages 18 and over

Video r o f k c i Cl

Byways • 15


Woodstock at 50

O

n August 15 through 18, 1969, one of the most celebrated music festivals in history took place in the Catskill Mountains of New York State. At a time when Americans were deeply divided, over 400,000 people from across the country gathered on a dairy farm to celebrate “Three Days of Peace and Music”. The three days of legendary performances, unimaginable mud, and unforgettable experiences and helped the Woodstock Music and Art Fair become a symbol of an entire generation. The festival was held on a 600-acre dairy farm in Bethel, 43 miles southwest of Woodstock. The community was not prepared for the crowds that began arriving. By Thursday, August 14, much of the area had become an enormous traffic jam. Over the sometimes rainy weekend, 32 acts performed outdoors, including some of the biggest bands of the time. It is widely regarded as a pivotal moment in pop16 • Byways

ular music history, as well as the definitive nexus for the larger counterculture generation.

Famous Acts Acts included Richie Havens, Arlo Guthrie, Joan Baez, Country Joe McDonald, Santana, Grateful Dead, Creedence Clearwater Revival, Janis Joplin, Sly and the Family Stone, The Who, Jefferson Airplane, Joe Cocker, Blood, Sweat & Tears, Crosby, Stills, Nash & Young, Sha Na Na, Jimi Hendrix and many more. The event was captured in the Academy Award-winning 1970 documentary movie Woodstock, an accompanying soundtrack album, and Joni Mitchell’s song “Woodstock”, which commemorated the event and became a major hit for both Crosby, Stills, Nash & Young and Matthews Southern Comfort. Joni Mitchell said, “Woodstock was a spark of beauty” where half-amillion kids “saw that they were part of a greater organism”.


Bethel. By the late 1960s, Yasgur was the largest milk producer in Sullivan County. The farm formed a natural bowl sloping down to Filippini Pond on the land’s north side. The stage was set up at the bottom of the hill with Filippini Pond forming a backdrop. The pond would become a popular skinny dipping destination. The organizers told Bethel authorities they expected no more than 50,000 people.

Woodstock Site Today In 1984, a plaque was placed at the original site commemorating the festival. In 1996, the site of the concert and 1,400 acres surrounding was purchased by cable television pioneer Alan Gerry for the purpose of creating the Bethel Woods Center for the Arts. Opening ceremony at Woodstock, August 15, 1969. Photo courtesy Mark Goff and Wikimedia Commons.

Woodstock was designed as a profitmaking venture. It famously became a “free concert” only after the event drew hundreds of thousands more people than the organizers had prepared for. Tickets for the three-day event cost $18 in advance and $24 at the gate (equivalent to about $120 and $160 today). Bethel is located in Sullivan County, New York in the Catskill Mountains. In 2017, the festival site was listed on the National Register of Historic Places.

Bethel Woods Center for the Arts The Bethel Woods Center for the Arts is located at the site of the 1969 Woodstock Music & Art Fair in Bethel. Located approximately 90 miles from New York City, the 800-acre site includes a 15,000-seat outdoor concert venue, a 1,000-set outdoor terrace stage, an intimate 440seat indoor hall, and the Museum at Bethel Woods.

Max Yasgur’s Dairy Farm. Photo courtesy Wikimedia Commons.

Dairy Farm of Last Resort After Woodstock, Wallkill and a number of other sites for the festival withdrew, the event was moved to dairy farmer Max Yasgur’s farm in Byways • 17


Picture taken 17 August 1969. Photo courtesy Wikimedia Commons. Concerts run June through September and feature many types of music genres. The Center opened in July 2006, with a performance by the New York Philharmonic. In August 2006, Crosby, Stills, Nash & Young performed before 16,000 fans at the new Center—37 years after their historic performance at Woodstock.

Museum at Bethel Woods The Museum at Bethel Woods opened in June 2008. The Museum contains film and interactive displays, text panels, and artifacts that explore the unique experience of the Woodstock festival, its significance as the culminating event of a decade of radical cultural transformation, and the legacy of the Sixties and Woodstock today. The Museum aims to explore the unique experience and significance of the 1969 Woodstock Music and Art Fair, along with the continuing legacies of both the 1960s and Woodstock. Permanent exhibits include The Sixties, The Woodstock Festival, Three Days of Peace and Music, and Impact of Woodstock & The Sixties, each featuring film and interactive displays, text panels, and collections of artifacts. In addition to information about the music festival, the museum offers exhibits, personal stories and a multimedia experience about various aspects of the 1960s, including music, fashion and political protest. It focuses on issues such as the baby boom, Cold War, Vietnam War, Civil Rights Movement, and the assassinations and riots that occurred during the decade, all of which contribute to the context of Woodstock. https://www.bethelwoodscenter.org 18 • Byways


Woodstock 50th Anniversary It was recently revealed that there will be a Woodstock 50. The official Woodstock 50th Anniversary Festival will take place on August 16–18, 2019 in Watkins Glen, NY. It will include some of the artists who performed at the original Woodstock festival in 1969: John Fogerty (from Creedence Clearwater Revival), Carlos Santana (as Santana), David Crosby (from Crosby, Stills & Nash), Melanie, John Sebastian, Country Joe McDonald, three Grateful Dead members (as Dead & Company), Canned Heat, and Hot Tuna. As one of the biggest rock festivals of all time and a cultural touchstone for the late 1960s, Woodstock has been referenced in many different ways in popular culture. The phrase “the Woodstock generation” became part of the common lexicon. For additional information on visiting Sullivan County and the Catskill Mountains: https://sullivancatskills.com Woodstock bus. Photo courtesy Museum at Bethel Woods. Today the Bethel Woods Center for the Arts is located on the site of the Woodstock Festival. Photo courtesy Bethel Woods Center for the Arts.

Byways • 19


40 Hours in Boston By Pat Woods

Aerial view of Boston’s fast growing Seaport District. Photo courtesy Kyle Klein.

20 • Byways


Byways • 21


Paul Revere statue. In the background — the Old North Church where two lanterns hung in 1775. Photo courtesy Kyle Klein.

nial and revolutionary landmarks including the Old State House, Paul Revere’s House, plus the Old North Church where in 1775 two lanterns were hung to warn colonists of arriving British troops. Faneuil Hall, considered the cradle of liberty for the U.S., was gifted to the city in 1742 by wealthy merchant Peter Faneuil specifically for use as a free public meeting hall and gathering place. Spirited conversations were held here in colonial times. Today a National Park Service visitor center is the starting point for ranger-led tours of the Freedom Trail and Black Heritage Trail. Faneuil Hall Marketplace includes Faneuil Hall plus North and South Markets (for brand-name shopping) and Quincy Market, a 19th century complex with 125 restaurants, stores and retail pushcarts. The complex is surrounded with brick and cobblestone alleys and sidewalks. Hint: wear sturdy walking shoes— in some places red brick and cobblestone pavers are A Walk in History Like history? Walk your way through time on the 2.5- uneven. Some older buildings may lack elevators or have mile Freedom Trail. Along the way visit some of 16 colo- steep stairs without railings. 22 • Byways

F

orty hours before boarding a ship in Gloucester, MA. for a New England cruise, my husband and I flew into Boston’s Logan airport. Travelers visiting Boston pre-cruise, post-cruise or for only a day can select from a plethora of fun attractions. Boston is a very walkable city. Its narrow streets, historic buildings and downtown waterfront are worth exploring. Like other savvy visitors, we chose a hop-on/hop-off tour with Old Town Trolley, a fully-narrated experience with 18 popular stops encompassing much of this compact historic city. Trolley drivers are well-versed in local history and folklore. Stops include the Freedom Trail, Fenway Park (home of the beloved Red Sox), Boston Garden, New England Aquarium, Seaport, Boston Tea Party Ships & Museum, Cheers, plus North and South Stations. www.trolleytours.com


Quincy Hall & Public Garden Quincy Hall is home to the famous food colonnade with 30 tempting options from around the globe. In this huge food court, we found the best ever New England clam chowder and other delectable seafood. We ate at communal wood tables in the casual central dining area. Outdoor seating also is available with entertainment from street performers ranging from musicians to jugglers and magicians. Boston uniquely blends colonial history with cuttingedge innovation. Near centuries-old buildings, visitors may find hip restaurants with trendy menus and stunning glass-enclosed galleries. A must-see is picturesque Boston Public Garden, where large leafy trees, flowering shrubs and gorgeous flower beds provide an idyllic setting for stress reduction and strolling. The lagoon with seasonal swan pedal boats and resident ducks is a favorite for all ages.

Sunset view of the Custom House clock tower in the Financial District. Photo courtesy Pat Woods.

Sports Mecca Boston offers a bevy of land, water and sports tours such as Fenway Park, home of the beloved Red Sox, World Series champs in four of the last 15 years. Bean Town also is blessed with four professional sports teams. Water options include harbor and whale watching tours. Rainy day view of Boston’s popular Fenway Park shot from Skywalk on the 50th floor of the Prudential Center. Photo courtesy Pat Woods.

Byways • 23


Swan pedal boats are a popular summer attraction in Boston Public Garden. Photo courtesy Greater Boston Convention & Visitors Bureau.

Visual Overview

Getting Around

For a visual overview of the city, visit Skywalk Observatory on the 50th floor of the Prudential Building. On a clear sunny day the 360-degree view of the city that extends out to sea is remarkable. Even on a rainy day you can see Boston’s many green spaces and how it differs from other U.S. cities. The well-organized structure of the city with hundreds of red brick buildings resembles older European cities. Audio guide units suggest what to look for. Admission includes films on how immigration influenced Boston’s development and interesting artifacts displays. www.skywalkboston.com

Unlike many other major cities, Boston’s Logan Airport is just three miles from downtown. Visitors can take a taxi cab, Uber, Lyft, water taxi, ride subway for $2.75 per person—or take the free Silverline bus from the airport to South Station. Get mass transit information from www.mbta.com or call 1-800-392-6100.

Seaport District The fastest growing Boston neighborhood, Seaport District offers a vibrant mix of hotels, dining venues, museums and parks, as well as stunning harbor views. During the 2018 April to November cruise season, 153 ships visited Flynn cruiseport. Because Boston is home to more than 50 colleges and universities, as well as numerous theaters and galleries, visitors will find a vibrant performing arts and culture scene. 24 • Byways

Where to Stay We stayed at the Harborside Inn at 185 State Street in the Financial District. A considerate hotel staffer advised taking the Blue Line subway from the airport. Because we had luggage, he also checked out the Aquarium stop for us in advance. We emerged from the elevator just 15 feet from the hotel entrance without navigating stairs or crossing a street! Our 7th floor atrium queen room was quiet and spacious with a work desk. We enjoyed complimentary welcome drinks in the trendy lounge and used lobby PCs. Centrally located, Harborside Inn is an easy walk from Quincy Food Colonnade, Faneuil Hall Marketplace, night life, the Aquarium, waterfront eateries and shops. www.harborsideinnboston.com


Fabulous Food

we boarded the small ship Victory II for a New England An old adage says eat where the locals do. A Boston cruise. Other cruise guests had similar experiences with friend highly recommended Nebo, a trendy Italian helpful Bostonians. They make Boston strong! More information is available from: restaurant at 520 Atlantic Avenue in the Financial www.bostonusa.com District. A favorite after-work hangout for business clientele, Nebo is owned by two Italian sisters. They raise the bar on quality food and stellar customer service. We enjoyed every delicious bite of the signature zucchini lasagna. Graziella, our attentive server, recomAbout the Author: mended octopus appetizers, which were succulent and A widely published Arizonaexceptional. Nebo also is known for delicious pizza and based cruise and travel writer, Pat lovely outdoor seating. www.neborestaurant.com Woods urges readers to SKI (spend My happiest Boston memory is the wonderful friendthe kids’ inheritance) on a cruise. ly locals who assisted with directions in and around the city. They also helped with directions and luggage on the subway and on the commuter train from North Station to Gloucester ($5.25 per person for a 48-mile ride!), where

Sailboats catch the breeze on the Charles River against the Back Bay skyline. Photo courtesy Kyle Klein.


Commemoration of 75th Anniversary of D-Day Set in Virginia

26 • Byways


The D-Day Memorial in Bedford, Virginia, borders the Blue Ridge Mountains. Byways photo. Byways • 27


A centerpiece of the 88-acre site is the massive Overlord Arch rising above Victory Plaza.

J

une 6, 2019 marks the 75th Anniversary of D-Day, a milestone that will represent the last large gathering of D-Day veterans around the globe. The youngest D-Day vets are in their middle-90s; a few more years will find the last of them gone from us. To mark this milestone and take advantage of the opportunities for discussion and commemoration it presents, the National D-Day Memorial in Bedford, Virginia is observing the 75th Anniversary with six days of ceremonies, displays, interviews, and much more. On June 6th, 1944 United States soldiers, in one of the most pivotal battles of World War II, invaded the French coastline in order to propel German soldiers out of Western Europe and lead the way for victory against the tyrants of that era. Dedicated on June 6th, 2001 by president George W. Bush, the National D-Day Memorial was constructed in honor of those who died that day, 28 • Byways

fighting in one of the most significant battles in our nation’s history.

50,000 Visitors The monument receives an average of 50,000 visitors a year. It borders the Blue Ridge Mountains in southwestern Virginia, overlooking the town of Bedford. and is a profound addition to America’s War Memorials Initiated by D-Day veteran J. Robert “Bob” Slaughter, the structure encompasses 88 acres. At its center stands a monumental forty-four foot tall arch, embellished by the military name, “Overlord,” that was given to the crucial operation. The arch is highlighted by a reflecting pool that surrounds a captivating scene that is symbolic of the arduous trudge soldiers made onto the blood stained beaches of Normandy, France. The grounds for the monument take visitors on a


archival journey through World War II and the politics and perils that embody the time period. Paying tribute to the men and women who served their country in one of its most dire battles, the D-Day National Memorial creates a solemn atmosphere for veterans and visitors alike to gain insight and learn more about the events that shaped our nation’s and our world’s history.

Why Bedford? Like eleven other Virginia communities, Bedford provided a company of soldiers (Company A) to the 29th Infantry Division when the National Guard’s 116th Infantry Regiment was activated on 3 February 1941. Some thirty Bedford soldiers were still in that company on D-Day; several more from Bedford were in other DDay companies. By day’s end, nineteen of the company’s Bedford soldiers were dead. Two more Bedford soldiers died later in the Normandy campaign, as did yet another two assigned to other 116th Infantry companies. Bedford’s population in 1944 was about 3,200. Proportionally this community suffered the nation’s severest D-Day losses. Recognizing Bedford as emblematic of all communities, large and small, whose citizen-soldiers served on D-Day, Congress warranted the establishment of the National D-Day Memorial in Bedford, Virginia. Above, Supreme Commander General Dwight D. Eisenhower. Below, a spotter plane similar to those used in the D-Day landings. Byways photos.

Byways • 29


American soldiers come ashore on D-Day. Byways photos.

Overlord

fidelity, and sacrifice of the Allied Forces, Fortress It is hard to conceive the epic scope of this decisive Europe had been breached. battle that foreshadowed the end of Hitler’s dream of Nazi domination. Overlord was the largest air, land, and Scheduled Tours Walking tours are scheduled daily between 10:00am sea operation undertaken before or since June 6, 1944. The landing included over 5,000 ships, 11,000 airplanes, and over 150,000 service men. After years of meticulous planning and seemingly endless training, for the Allied Forces, it all came down to this: The boat ramp goes down, then jump, swim, run, and crawl to the cliffs. Many of the first young men (most not yet 20 years old) entered the surf carrying eighty pounds of equipment. They faced over 200 yards of beach before reaching the first natural feature offering any protection. Blanketed by small-arms fire and bracketed by artillery, they found themselves in hell. When it was over, the Allied Forces had suffered nearly 10,000 casualties; more than 4,000 were dead. Yet somehow, due to planA tour guide explains the significance of individual ning and preparation, and due to the valor, military units participating in the D-Day invasion. 30 • Byways


and 4:00pm. Guided walking tours are approximately one hour and leave from the Gift Store Quonset hut. Ask for the next available tour time when purchasing your tickets at the Bedford Area Welcome Center For visitors requiring mobility assistance, wheelchairs are provided at no charge. Please request a wheelchair at the ticket counter. Visitors are not required to take the guided walking tour. With paid admission, visitors can stroll the grounds with the provided site map. The site map includes information on the architecture and the historical narrative of the Memorial. For further information on visiting the D-Day Memorial, visit: https://www.dday.org

r Video o f k c i l C

Byways • 31


Traveling the Highways & Byways with Bill Graves

T

o drive the 70 miles from Santa Fe to Taos, the state of New Mexico offers a couple, twolane choices: The High Road goes through the back country. It’s the scenic route. The other road runs through the valleys along the Rio Grande. It’s called just what it is: highway 68. On the map it’s a red line. The High Road is a gray line and changes numbers as it goes along. Mountains where ridges and rock formations change color as the day passes. The Road crosses high desert, spotted with bushes that are nature’s only gift of green to these rolling knolls of sand. The villages along here tap into the bloodlines of the original Spanish explorers of 400 years ago. They carry on the customs, religious beliefs and work of those early settlers. Their language is closer to that of Madrid than of Mexico. I got off the High Road at Chimayo, a scattering of little houses with plots of peppers and chilies out back. Tall cottonwood trees tell of a mountain stream or two somewhere close.

Chimayo, New Mexico I was here to see an old, adobe church –- a shrine actually, built in 1816 — called Santuario de Chimayo. Miraculous healing is believed to occur here where a wooden crucifix was pulled from the ground in 1813. The church is said to be built on the spot Lorraine Vigil where it was discovered. The church has two high windows and walls of adobe, three-feet thick. Indirect lighting draws the eye to the altar and the wooden altar screen behind it, which is a masterpiece of wood carvings and color. The room has a solemnity and tranquility that has settled in, I think, after a couple centuries of prayers being said here. To the left of the altar is the vestry or prayer room. Off of it is the El Posito, the Holy Dirt Room. It has a round Santuario de Chimayo, Chimayo, New Mexico. Photos courtesy Bill Graves.

32 • Byways


opening in the flagstone floor where people can scoop up dirt to take with them. I am told some eat it. It is replaced daily by blessed dirt or sand from close by. They go through 25 to 30 tons of it in a year. The vestry’s ceiling is low. With a dirt floor and no windows it has the feeling of a cave. The walls are lined with castoffs — hundreds of crutches and canes along with walkers, wheel chairs and braces. Apparently, a myriad of people have left this room convinced that they did not need them anymore. “It is believed to be one of the truly holy places in America,” Lorraine Vigil explained. “Long before the Spaniards came, the Native Americans believed this valley to be holy.” Lorraine has lived here all her life, as has her family for several generations. “During Holy Week, this is the site of the largest religious pilgrimage in the country. Most of the people come on foot, some from as far as Albuquerque, 90 miles away. Many carry crosses. “I live near by. On Good Friday the crowd passing my house is so heavy I don’t even try to go out. About 30,000 people come here for Easter. They line up for hours to get in the church.” I told Lorraine that I had

heard that the crucifix was taken to Santa Cruz by a priest. But three times it disappeared and was later found back here in the ground. “Over the years, many stories have been told about the crucifix,” Lorraine said. “But nothing was written down. So believe what you choose.”

About the author: After seeing much of the world as a career naval officer, Bill Graves decided, after he retired, to take a closer look at the United States. He has been roaming the country for 20 years, much of it in a motorhome with his dog Rusty. He lives in Rancho Palos Verdes, California and is the author of On the Back Roads, Discovering Small Towns. of America. He can be reached at Roadscribe@aol.com.

Byways • 33


Col

The Royal Gorge Bridge and Canyon. Photo courtesy Milan Suvajac and Wikimedia Commons.

34 • Byways


lorado’s Royal Gorge Region

Byways • 35


deo i V for k c i Cl

Downtown Cañon City. Photo courtesy Chris Litherland and Wikimedia Commons.

I

f you want to take a break from action-packed itineraries, the Royal Gorge Region has the solution. Cañon City, Florence and their surrounding areas in south-central Colorado offer plenty of relaxing things to do, whether you’re seeking a romantic couples’ getaway, a little solo time or an escape to bond with friends and family. Here are some of the best ways to experience the Royal Gorge Region at a leisurely pace.

Strolls & Sunsets Get out in the fresh air and take in the natural backdrop of the Royal Gorge on an easy walk along Tunnel Drive. This flat, 2-mile route follows an old railroad bed through three granite-blasted tunnels — the rocks that surround you are more than 1.7 billion years old, so don’t hurry past them! You can stop for a rest at one of the many benches to admire the scenery, including bird’seye views of the Arkansas River.

46 Miles From Colorado Springs The Royal Gorge Region is located less than an hour from Colorado Springs, just 46 miles on state route 115. The Royal Gorge is a canyon of the Arkansas River. The canyon begins at the mouth of Grape Creek about 2 miles west of Cañon City and continues in a westnorthwesterly direction for approximately 6 miles until ending near U.S. Route 50. Being one of the deepest canyons in Colorado, it is also known as the Grand Canyon of the Arkansas River, with a maximum depth of 1,250 ft. The canyon is also very narrow, measuring from 50 ft wide at its base to 300 ft wide at its top, as it carves a path through the granite formations below Fremont Peak and YMCA Mountain. 36 • Byways

deo i V r k fo c i l C

Royal Gorge Dinosaur Experience. Photo courtesy visitcos.com.


For a longer stroll, the 7-mile Arkansas Riverwalk Trail winds through Cañon City, wetlands, cottonwood groves and John Griffin Regional Park, making it perfect for bird watching and wildlife spotting. And there’s no better way to cap off a day than with a joy ride along Skyline Drive to watch the sunset. Head west from town to navigate the steep, cliffside climb to the top of a ridge overlooking the Royal Gorge and the Arkansas River Valley. There are even dinosaur tracks embedded in the cliff face with an interpretive display to guide you.

Whitewater rafters brave the rapids of the Arkansas River through the Royal Gorge. Photo courtesy Matt Inden/Miles and colorado.com.

Treasures From The Past Indulge your inner child — or the kiddos in your family — and see where you can dig up prehistoric glimpses of the dinosaurs that once roamed these parts. Garden Park, about 6 miles north of Cañon City, is where paleontologists in the 1870s uncovered the first of many fossils that would be found in the area Several of those discoveries are now viewable at the Denver Museum of Nature & Science as well as the Smithsonian Institute. Take your time following the interpretive signs, roaming quarries and hiking and biking trails, and admiring the gorgeous terrain and rock formations. Looking for a more interactive encounter? Pay a visit to the Royal Gorge Dinosaur Experience, a state-of-the-art facility that boasts full-scale dinosaur fossil casts, hands-on exhibits with actual fossils and a real paleo lab, where unearthed fossils are cleaned and prepped by the pros. Outside, venture through the high-plain desert forest on the meandering Wild Walk, a dirt trail along which you’ll find more than a dozen life-size animatronic dinosaurs. Later, shift your historical focus forward a few thousand millennia when you set your sights on the town of Florence, the antique capital of Colorado. This charming enclave is just the place to peruse the largest number of antique stores per capita in the state, housed in historic buildings along Main Street. Collectors will delight in finds like a stained-glass church window, gilded Victorian toilet or bayonet from World War II — no two stores are alike or have the same merchandise.

Cultural Gems Make a point to soak up the artsy side of the Royal Gorge Region at the Fremont Center for the Arts, the oldest privately operated art center west of the Mississippi River, located in downtown Cañon City. Residing in a 1933 post office, the unique venue offers classes for all ages in pottery, drawing, sewing and more; workshop spaces for artists; an art history-related library open to the public; a portion of its permanent collection on display; and shows, contests and special events throughout the year. Exhibits also rotate monthly and showcase themes like photography, local color and fiber art. Exploring the region’s history is another fascinating activity, with plenty of institutions to choose from. Byways • 37


The Royal Gorge Route Railroad powers through the Royal Gorge outside of Cañon City. Photo courtesy Matt Inden/Miles and colorado.com.

38 • Byways


The Florence Pioneer Museum tells the town’s story from the settlement of Ute Indians to the discovery of oil fields, and every major event and person that influenced it in between. Check out items like an old city jail, saddles, American Indian memorabilia and period clothing, and read the exciting tales that were transcribed from cowboys, miners and railroad workers. Spring and summer are excellent times to take advantage of the museum’s guided walking tours through historic downtown Florence. The Royal Gorge Regional Museum and History Center is an addition to the cultural scene that provides context on topics such as the film industry in Fremont County, fossil discovery and local family histories. And at the Colorado Museum of Prisons, gain insight on the history of prison life in Colorado by contemplating a series of exhibits within old inmate cells covering infamous prisoners, living conditions, punishments and more.

Wining & Dining From elegant French fare to delicious pizza and sweet treats, your opportunities for a relaxing restaurant meal are plentiful around Cañon City. But for a chance to really put your feet up, The Winery at Holy Cross Abbey is a can’tmiss venture. Drop into the Suspension bridge and Royal Gorge tasting room to sample a flight Route Railroad in the Royal Gorge. of locally made, award-winning wines while taking in vis- Photo courtesy Matt Inden/Miles and tas of the spectacular Wet colorado.com. Mountains and pastoral landscapes. Though you’re likely to experience aboard the Royal Gorge Route Railroad, want to take home a bottle of fruit-forward Sangre de which offers First Class Lunch and Dinner Trains Cristo Nouveau or the Vineyard Sunset blend, the well- throughout the year. You’ll be treated to a three-course stocked gift shop will also tempt you with an array of meal made with fresh Colorado ingredients, as well as olive oils, balsamic vinegars, cheese boards and other access to the adjacent, private open-air car for 360gourmet goodies. degree views of stunning scenery as the train chugs 24 Lastly, you can’t beat the unique combination of a miles round-trip through the dramatic Royal Gorge. breathtaking journey and a seasonally inspired dining https://royalgorgeregion.com Byways • 39


Santa Maria Valley, Riverbench Vineyards. Photo courtesy Mary Charlebois. 40 • Byways


Santa Maria Valley –Experience Old California By Mary Charlebois

Byways • 41


Santa Maria Valley, Riverbench Vineyards. Photos courtesy Mary Charlebois.

S

anta Maria Valley has been home to humans for millenniums. The Chumash people, Spanish, Mexican, and finally the U.S. has laid claim to this part of Central California. All those that have dominated the land had one thing in common. They wanted the valley because of its prime farm and ranch land. SMV is bordered on the east by Santa Lucia Mountains and to the west by the Pacific Ocean. San Luis Obispo is to the north, and Santa Barbara is south. The valley has beaches, sand dunes, rivers, wetlands, and rugged foothills. The region has a strong connection to Hollywood. Old California ranch life is alive and flourishing. Farms and vineyards are abundant. This easygoing part of California is filled with natural wonders, exceptional food, and delectable wine.

Eat like a Vaquero Barbecue is an authentic American fare. Virtually every region of the U.S. has developed their own style of cooking with grills, pits, and smokers using coals. One of the oldest is Santa Maria Style. In the 1800s, Santa Maria Valley was occupied by OldCalifornia Spanish and Mexican ranchos. Ranchers held celebrations for their vaqueros. Simply seasoned beef was cooked on skewers over open pits filled with coals from the indigenous red oak tree. The Spanish-style celebrations always included pinquitos, pearl-sized pink beans grown in the valley. 42 • Byways

Beginning in the 1930s, Santa Maria Style moved from ranchos to local restaurants and festivals. Some of those original eateries are still serving a taste of early California heritage. In 1958 the Far Western Tavern opened in Guadalupe and began serving Santa Maria Style barbecue. Today the restaurant is in Old Town Orcutt, just outside Santa Maria. They serve contemporary California ranch cuisine inspired by local traditions. https://farwesterntavern.com Another not-to-miss Santa Maria Style eatery is Shaw’s Steakhouse. It’s a 150-year old Santa Maria Style barbecue tradition. Don’t expect to eat light, the portions are whopping. http://shaws-restaurant.cafes-city.com


Santa Maria Inn is a registered historic landmark in the heart of Santa Maria. Barbeque isn’t the only food you’ll find in this farms cover the valley floor and hills. High-quality California Central Coast Valley. Fruit and vegetable crops, many year-round, like grapes, strawberries, arti-

Sisquoc River and Santa Lucia Mountains in the background. Santa Maria Valley California. Photos courtesy Mary Charlebois. Byways • 43


Oso Flaca Dunes, Santa Maria Valley. Photos courtesy Mary Charlebois. chokes, broccoli, cabbage, carrots, beets, peas, celery and loads more are prevalent. Farms and fields flourish within the Santa Maria city limits creating wide-open spaces and scenic vistas. Mexican food is taken to an art form in SMV. From large to tiny, Mexican restaurants are plentiful and pleasing. The best are family-owned, family-friendly and family-operated. Most are easy on the budget.

Wine Tasting and Scenic Drive Rancho Sisquoc Winery in Foxen Canyon is open to the public at the inviting tasting room. The ranch originated as an 1852 Mexican land grant. The trip to the winery is one of the most scenic in the valley. Vineyards undulating over hills and down alluvial are mesmerizing. The architecture here and in the region is Old California style, part Mission, part early California Ranch.

44 • Byways

Explore the Dunes The story of how sphinxes came to be buried in the Nipomo Dunes, and how they were forgotten for 60years, is beautifully presented at Guadalupe-Nipomo Dunes Center. The Dunes Center is the gateway to the coastal dunes. Make this your first stop to learn about the history, flora, and fauna. http://dunescenter.org

Heirloom Beets at Babe Farm, Sana Maria California. Photo courtesy Mary Charlebois.


From November through February, migrating Monarchs use the dunes and eucalyptus groves on their winter trip to Mexico. Photos courtesy Mary Charlebois.

Wetlands and Boardwalks Oso Flaco Lake Natural Area is a beautiful and diverse natural area on the California coast. Take pleasure in easy hiking through wooded spaces, a lake, a boardwalk through the dunes, and finally the beach. The photo ops are exceptional, wildlife is abundant, and picnics are unforgettable. http://dunescenter.org/visit-the-dunes/points-ofinterest/oso-flaco-lake/

Stay in the same room as Marilyn Monroe, John Wayne, Gary Cooper, and numerous other silver screen stars. The hotel guest register is full of Hollywood royalty, some incognito. Stroll around the public areas, they are a gallery for photos and mementos of the golden age. The hotel pool area is inviting for all ages and abilities. Restaurants and bars in the hotel serve locally made libations. https://www.santamariainn.com

Butterfly Park

Santa Maria Valley will put you in touch with Old At the Monarch Butterfly Grove, from November California, a place of wide-open vistas, good food, lovethrough February, migrating Monarchs use the dunes ly wine, and fantastic people. For more information about Old California in Santa and eucalyptus groves for R&R from their winter trip to Mexico. It’s an enchanting natural spectacle. Even with- Maria Valley, visit www.santamariavalley.com out butterflies, hiking here is easy-going and covers diverse landscapes. It includes woodlands, sand dunes, and beach. The hiking trails are part of the California Coastal Trail. http://www.monarchbutterfly.org About the Author: Mary Charlebois is a freelance journalist and Sleep with the Stars photographer. Her home base is the Santa Maria Inn is a registered historic landmark in the north coast of California. Her travels heart of Santa Maria. include domestic and international desA secret Spanish courtyard in the middle of the hotel, tinations. See more of her work at Spanish tiles, tropical plants, and fountains invoke Old MaryGo. California. You can almost hear Spanish guitars. The hotel opened in 1917 as a country inn serving guests from Los Angeles during the first half of the 20th-century. Byways • 45


Welcome to Nevada City and the Foothills of the Sierra Nevada

46 • Byways


Downtown Nevada City, California. Photos courtesy Nevada City Chamber of Commerce. Byways • 47


Nevada City is located in the foothills of the Sierra Nevada Mountains in California Photos courtesy Nevada City Chamber of Commerce.

N

evada City is a premier destination for all types of travelers in California. Whether it is the lure of four seasons of outdoor adventures, unmatchable Gold Rush history or just the simple charm and allure of a pristine Victorian town, your visit to the foothills of the Sierra Nevada mountains will be memorable. Whether you are ready to stroll a genuine Victorian Main Street, explore trails along Deer Creek or attend one of the many events offered in this gem of the Gold Country, Nevada City holds the charm and appeal that continues to land it on a wide range of must-visit lists, from Sunset to Outside magazine with honorable mentions in such noteworthy travel publications as Lonely Planet and Frommer’s.

Settled in 1849

Settled in 1849 during the California Gold Rush, Nevada City has retained much of its small town color, historic buildings and cultural heritage. With easy access from Sacramento, San Francisco or Reno, Nevada City is at the gateway to the Sierra and provides friendly charm, character and range of options any time of the year. Nevada City’s storied past includes pivotal moments in California’s history, from the weighing in of Comstock Lode silver at Ott’s Assay Office, to the 1895 48 • Byways

Shops in downtown are busy places.


signing of Pacific Gas & Electric cofounder Eugene De Sabla’s original hydroelectric contracts in the National Hotel, or journalist, attorney and statesman Aaron Augustus Sargent’s efforts in obtaining the vote for women as well authoring the Pacific Railroad Act. The Sargent House was built in 1856. Art galleries find a friendly home in Nevada City’s 16-acre Historic District, along with artisan boutiques, eateries, bars and brew pubs. Ready for farm fresh? Nevada City is home to many farm to table restaurants featuring seasonal food. Award-winning breweries as well as notable wineries and seriously dedicated tap houses make the ultimate pub crawl possible. And yes, you can find festival wear suitable for Burning Man and beyond among a wide range of shops right alongside Hallmark’s movie, The Christmas Card scene locations. The Nevada Theatre is California’s oldest original-use theatre. It opened in September 1865. Where else can you watch a play, hear a concert or take in an independent film where Mark Twain, Jack London, Emma Nevada and Lotta Crabtree visited or performed regularly?

River on Hoyt’s Trail. Cyclists find an abundance of options for on-road and off-road. The second oldest cycling competition in the U.S., the Nevada City Classic will hold its 59th consecutive race on June 2, 2019. For a pleasant afternoon, combine a bit of dining, shopping and culture with an easy stroll through town, admiring historical sites alongside heritage trees. Many deciduous trees came West with the miners’ families, still others were developed by famed nurseryman Felix Gillet. Outdoor Adventure For more information, visit: Nevada City’s elevation at 2,477 feet allows for excelhttps://www.nevadacitychamber.com lent year-round hiking with a wide range of trails, from the easiest meander along dogwood-lined historic Cascade Canal, to a trek along the Wild and Scenic Yuba Special events are popular in downtown Nevada City. Here, vendors and merchants provide a shopping extravaganza. Photo © Faye White.

Byways • 49


John Deere Attractions Launch New Passport Program

John Deere Pavilion Heritage Area. Photo courtesy John Deere.

50 • Byways


g n i n e p p a H s ’ t a h W

Byways • 51


John Deere Pavilion Heritage Area. Photos courtesy John Deere.

T

he John Deere Pavilion, John Deere Tractor & Engine Museum and the John Deere Historic Site recently launched a new passport program designed to help guests commemorate their trips to the attractions, as well as other John Deere locations, by collecting seals and stamps in their personal passport booklet. Participation in the program is completely free and visitors can earn gifts and discounts along the way. “The passport is like opening a door to a new adventure and provides a fun and interactive way to visit and experience all we have to offer,” said Brigitte Tapscott, manager of the John Deere Attractions. “The John Deere Attractions and other Deere sites provide unique and exceptional experiences. We hope this inspires visitors to learn about each location and encourages more participation at our special events held throughout the year.”

John Deere Passport Visitors can start their adventures at one of the three main John Deere Attraction locations which include: the John Deere Pavilion in Moline, Illinois; the John Deere Tractor & Engine Museum in Waterloo, Iowa; and the John Deere Historic Site in Grand Detour, Illinois. Guests of all ages should ask for a passport at the visitor information desks. 52 • Byways

John Deere Pavilion Discovery Zone. When visiting an attraction for the first time, guests commemorate the experience by using a location-specific seal embosser. For special events, return visits to any of the three main attractions, and trips to other John Deere locations, visitors should ask Deere personnel to stamp their passport booklet. Guests collecting all three embossed seals will earn a


limited-edition John Deere hat. For every passport page visitors complete with unique stamps, participants earn a one-time, one-day-only discount of 20 percent on merchandise purchased at participating John Deere stores and the John Deere Historic Site gift shop. Some exclusions apply. When visitors complete the entire passport booklet, they receive a special commemorative hook, hand-forged by a blacksmith at the John Deere Historic Site. “The final gift is quite unique, and we believe it is something John Deere fans will enjoy,” said Tapscott. “Our team is excited to share this program with guests, and we can’t wait to award our travelers with some legendary gifts as our way of saying thanks for visiting John Deere!” “The John Deere brand is global and critically important to the region’s rich history and bright future,” said Dave Herrell, President and CEO, Visit Quad Cities. “John Deere Attractions and Deere sites connect Quad Visitors and Quad Citizens in an authentic and immersive experience. And, the new passport program is the key to engaging with the John Deere story in a captivating and experiential way. The passion that we all have for John Deere is meaningful and we look forward to sharing it with the world.” The full list of participating John Deere locations includes:

John Deere Historic Site Blacksmith. John Deere Pavilion Video Wall.

deo i V for k c i Cl

Byways • 53


John Deere Tractor Museum family visit. Photos courtesy John Deere. Grand Detour, Illinois •The John Deere Historic Site Moline, Illinois •John Deere Pavilion •Deere Family Homes •Deere & Company World Headquarters •John Deere Harvester Works (factory tour) •John Deere Seeding Group (factory tour) Waterloo, Iowa •John Deere Tractor & Engine Museum •John Deere Engine Works (factory tour) •John Deere Tractor Cab Assembly Operations (factory tour) •John Deere Drive Train Operations (factory tour) Des Moines, Iowa •John Deere Des Moines Works (factory tour) Ottumwa, Iowa •John Deere Ottumwa Works (factory tour) Horicon, Wisconsin •John Deere Gator Works (factory tour) 54 • Byways

To learn more about the John Deere Attractions’ passport program, or to plan your trip, call 309-7651000 or go to www.VisitJohnDeere.com. The John Deere Attractions are open seven days a week and are free of charge.


Above: Harvestor Works Factory tour. Right: Tractor Engine Museum wall. Below: Tractor Engine Museum display.

Byways • 55


Byways is published bi-monthly by Byways, Inc. and distributed electronically throughout North America. Byways is emailed to more than 4000 tour operators /Travel Trade through the Internet. Subscriptions are complimentary. An iPad & iPhone version is available for consumers in iTunes in the App Store. An Android browser version is available at www.issuu.com/byways. Byways’ distribution includes motorcoach companies, tour operators, selected travel agents, bank travel managers, school band and athletic planners, meeting planners and the travel trade. For advertising rates, editorial deadlines, or to place advertising insertions, contact: Byways Magazine at 502-785-4875. ©Copyright 2019 by Byways, Inc. All rights reserved. No portion of this publication may be duplicated in any form without express written permission of the publisher. Editor and Publisher Stephen M. Kirchner

Advertising 502-785-4875 Internet bywaysmagazine.com byways@motorcoach.com Byways on Facebook Byways on Twitter

Advertisers Index Colorado Springs, Colorado . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 AT&T . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 DirectTV. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57 Jamestown — Yorktown, Virginia. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 London — Laurel County, Kentucky . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 Randolph County, West Virginia. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 Springfield Tourism, Kentucky. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 Sullivan County, New York . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 United States Naval Academy, Maryland . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15

56 • Byways


Byways • 57


Turn static files into dynamic content formats.

Create a flipbook
Issuu converts static files into: digital portfolios, online yearbooks, online catalogs, digital photo albums and more. Sign up and create your flipbook.