Featuring North America’s Leading Travel Destinations
Great American Railroads Mt. Washington Cog Railway Explore Cape Cod by Rail North Carolina’s Great Smoky Mountains Railroad Colorado’s Model Railroad Museum Utah’s Heber Valley Railroad Rolling with the Virginia & Truckee Railroad
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Cripple Creek & Victor Narrow Gauge Railroad
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for Colorado Rail Experiences The distinct, historic railroads of Colorado give travelers the opportunity to experience some of the most revered scenic train rides and attractions in the U.S. Build these unique rides into your western itineraries for your most ardent railfans.
Peak gold rush. The track heads out of Cripple Creek, past the Midland Terminal wye and over a reconstructed trestle before returning to the depot.
The Royal Gorge Route Railroad in CaĂąon City offers an elegant out-and-back trip through the Royal Gorge along the Arkansas River. Choose from a variety of options where gorgeous scenery is combined with great service and delicious food, sourced locally and prepared fresh right on board the train.
In Colorado Springs, The Broadmoor Pikes Peak Cog Railway, which runs from the mountain town of Manitou Springs to the 14,115’ summit of Pikes Peak – America’s Mountain, is under reconstruction with new Swiss cog rail cars, 19 miles of newly constructed track and a new depot. It is scheduled to reopen in 2021, shortly after the opening of a new and stunning Pikes Peak Summit House.
Head up into the Rocky Mountains to ride the Cripple Creek & Victor Narrow Gauge Railroad. This narrated trip on a century-old steam locomotive reveals scenic shots of Pikes Peak and old mining camps around every curve as guests are transported back to the gold mining days of the Pikes
For a unique and authentic experience, visit the Pikes Peak Trolley Museum, located in the 1888 Rock Island Roundhouse. Their mission is to promote interest and knowledge of street rail transportation, restore vintage trolley cars and preserve the remarkable transit legacy of Colorado Springs.
Historic Rail Trips & Museums: 1. Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad 2. Cumbres & Toltec Scenic Railroad 3. Leadville Colorado & Southern Railroad 4. Georgetown Loop Railroad 5. Colorado Rail Museum (Golden) 6. Colorado Model Railroad Museum (Greeley) 7. Pueblo Railway Museum
What’s New: In late May 2020, the U.S. Olympic & Paralympic Museum will open its doors as one of the most accessible museums in the world. Each guest will have an experience unique to them based on their favorite sports, athletes and hometown. Interactive, digital exhibits will allow you to race against a Team USA track star, ask questions of an Olympian and Paralympian and see how the Games
Plan Your Tour
VisitCOS.com/groups-tours
Floy Kennedy
Director of Travel Industry Sales Floy@VisitCOS.com 719.685.7635
Byways Magazine ŠCopyright 2020 by Byways, Inc. All rights reserved. No portion of this publication may be duplicated in any form without express written permission of the publisher. For more than 37 years, Byways has been covering the leading destinations along the highways and byways of North America. Some of the most well-known, and least known, destinations to discover in the United States and Canada. Byways is published in three versions. The is the Turn-Key edition on the web for viewing on Computers, Android, iOS (iPhone and iPad). There is an Apple App Store edition. There is also a Byways Magazine Channel in Apple News. A Byways Podcast is available on major podcast apps, including the Apple Podcast app. For advertising rates, editorial deadlines, or to place advertising insertions, contact: Byways Magazine 502-785-4875 or Email http://bywaysmagazine.com Byways • 3
PREVIEW By Steve Kirchner, Editor & Publisher
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.T. Barnum once called the Smoky Mountains Railroad. The engines and bus from the firm’s crash scene were Mount Washington Cog Railway “The second Greatest Show on left behind by the production crew, and can still be viewed on eastbound Tuckasegee River Excursions Earth”. And no wonder, when the railway departing from Bryson City. The Colorado Model Railroad Museum in Greeley is was first proposed, the idea was immehost to one of the finest, one-of-a-kind miniature train diately met with ridicule and disbelief collections in the world from state legislators, railroad officials and others who The 5,500 sq. feet building required over five years called the plan preposterous. and 280,000 volunteer hours to complete. Unlike typical But Sylvester Marsh was not to be deterred. And the result was the “Cog” railway, the first mountain-climb- model railroads, the museum utilizes an open air design ing cog railway in the world. Last year the railway cel- with broad aisles and theatrical lighting, allowing visiebrated its 150th anniversary, and it’s still going strong. tors to clearly view the detailed scenery from just inches During that time, it has taken more than 5 million peo- away. The museum has attracted more than 150,000 visitors. ple to the summit of Mount Washington, at 6288 feet, the from 50 different countries since its highest peak in the Northeast. opening in 2009. Also in New England, we explore Cape Bill Graves takes us to North Platte, Cod, where the railroad takes visitors past Nebraska, and the Union Pacific’s marshes, cranberry bogs, dunes, and other Bailey Yard, the world’s largest rail places only accessible by rail. yard. He also visits the Golden Spike The Cape Cod Central Railroad runs Tower, offering a full view of the rail from May through October. It offers narratyard. ed excursions, brunch trains, dinner trains, The Heber Valley Railroad in Utah and various special events. carries more an 100,000 passengers A highlight of Cape Cod Central is the annually along a line between Heber three-hour Cape Cod Dinner Train, a true City and Vivian Park, which is located culinary experience. This train travels in Provo Canyon. through quaint villages accompanied by During the 2002 Winter Olympics romantic music and soft candlelight. As the railroad was part of the Olympic guests soak in the splendor of the seaside Steam Team, carrying spectators to the community, a fresh, delicious meal is V&T Steam Engine Soldier Hollow Olympic venue. served. For the Virginia & Truckee Railroad, the story of its In North Carolina, the Smoky Mountains Railroad future as part of Nevada’s living history will be guided takes you over 53 miles of track, two tunnels and 25 by its illustrious 150-year past. bridges. Know as the “Queen of the Short Lines” the railroad is Here you will experience some of the most beautiful running full steam ahead with train rides between landscapes in America. The Carolina Mountains border Virginia City and Gold Hill daily throughout the summer the entire western edge of North Carolina, comprising season. The popular family attraction takes riders back some 52 percent of the Great Smoky Mountains National through time from 1859 when the Comstock Lode was Park. discovered. All scenic, round-trip excursions depart from Bryson In What’s Happening, Portland Spirit Cruises is taking City. Trips range from 3½ hours to a full day of fun and guests on a 7 Wonders of the Gorge cruise this summer. adventure. This railroad is also a movie star. It’s known for its It includes the most majestic views visible by water role in a number of major Hollywood productions. But along the lower Columbia River Gorge, a National perhaps its most famous role is the train wreck scene in Scenic Area. Sights include the Columbia River, Cape the 1993 Warner Brothers blockbuster movie The Horn, Multnomah Falls, Crown Point, Rooster Rock, Fugitive starring Harrison Ford and Tommy Lee Jones Beacon Rock, and Mount Hood. We hope you enjoy this issue of Byways. which was was filmed in Dillsboro along the Great Byways • 4
Cripple Creek & Victor Narrow Gauge Railroad
Video r o f k c Cli Royal Gorge Route Railroad
U.S. Olympic & Paralympic Museum
All Aboard
for Colorado Rail Experiences The distinct, historic railroads of Colorado give travelers the opportunity to experience some of the most revered scenic train rides and attractions in the U.S. Build these unique rides into your western itineraries for your most ardent railfans.
Peak gold rush. The track heads out of Cripple Creek, past the Midland Terminal wye and over a reconstructed trestle before returning to the depot.
The Royal Gorge Route Railroad in CaĂąon City offers an elegant out-and-back trip through the Royal Gorge along the Arkansas River. Choose from a variety of options where gorgeous scenery is combined with great service and delicious food, sourced locally and prepared fresh right on board the train.
In Colorado Springs, The Broadmoor Pikes Peak Cog Railway, which runs from the mountain town of Manitou Springs to the 14,115’ summit of Pikes Peak – America’s Mountain, is under reconstruction with new Swiss cog rail cars, 19 miles of newly constructed track and a new depot. It is scheduled to reopen in 2021, shortly after the opening of a new and stunning Pikes Peak Summit House.
Head up into the Rocky Mountains to ride the Cripple Creek & Victor Narrow Gauge Railroad. This narrated trip on a century-old steam locomotive reveals scenic shots of Pikes Peak and old mining camps around every curve as guests are transported back to the gold mining days of the Pikes
For a unique and authentic experience, visit the Pikes Peak Trolley Museum, located in the 1888 Rock Island Roundhouse. Their mission is to promote interest and knowledge of street rail transportation, restore vintage trolley cars and preserve the remarkable transit legacy of Colorado Springs.
Historic Rail Trips & Museums: 1. Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad 2. Cumbres & Toltec Scenic Railroad 3. Leadville Colorado & Southern Railroad 4. Georgetown Loop Railroad 5. Colorado Rail Museum (Golden) 6. Colorado Model Railroad Museum (Greeley) 7. Pueblo Railway Museum
What’s New: In late May 2020, the U.S. Olympic & Paralympic Museum will open its doors as one of the most accessible museums in the world. Each guest will have an experience unique to them based on their favorite sports, athletes and hometown. Interactive, digital exhibits will allow you to race against a Team USA track star, ask questions of an Olympian and Paralympian and see how the Games
Plan Your Tour
VisitCOS.com/groups-tours
Floy Kennedy
Director of Travel Industry Sales Floy@VisitCOS.com 719.685.7635 Sponsored Content
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Volume 37, Issue No. 1 2020 On the cover. New Hampshire’s Mt. Washington Cog Railway surpasses 150 years of operation, transporting more than 5 million people to the summit. For more on Great American Railroads, turn to page 8. Photo courtesy Mt. Washington Cog Railway.
Features Great American Railroads 2020 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 Mount Washington Cog Railway . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 Explore Cap Cod by Rail . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 North Carolina’s Great Smoky Mountains Railroad . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 Colorado’s Model Railroad Museum. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 Utah’s Heber Valley Railroad. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 Rolling with the Virginia & Truckee Railroad . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38
Sponsored Content All Aboard for Colorado Rail Experiences . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Departments Byways Instant Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 Byways Preview. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 Traveling the Highways & Byways with Bill Graves . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 Advertisers Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48
What’s Happening 7 Wonders of the Gorge Cruise. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44 Coming in future issues of Byways ...Mountains & Valleys, Ocean Views, Rivers & Lakes, Great American Roads and more!
Next Up: Mountains & Valleys. Right. Needles Highway in the Black Hills of South Dakota. Photo courtesy Visit Rapid City.
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Mt. Washington Cog Railway
Mt. Washington Cog Railway train coming down from the summit. Photo courtesy Mt. Washington Railway. Byways • 9
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View from the top. The Cog begins its return trip down the mountain. Photos courtesy Mount Washington Railway. t 6,288 feet in elevation, Mt. Washington is the Washington. His idea was immediately met with ridicule highest peak in the northeast. Located right in the and disbelief from state legislators, railroad officials and heart of New Hampshire, a trip up Mount friends who believed his plan to be preposterous. That man was Sylvester Marsh. Washington can provide the experience of When the first locomotive arrived and a lifetime. was assembled, it looked more like a hoistThe Mount Washington Cog Railway, ing engine that might be used to raise a the first mountain–climbing cog railway in piano to a third story window, rather than a the world, last year celebrated 150 years of revolutionary machine to climb Mount operation. The Cog, (as it is affectionately Washington. It had no cab, no provisions nicknamed) is located in the White for fuel, water storage or even a pump to Mountains of New Hampshire, 6 miles fill the boiler. It couldn’t go very far withfrom the grand Mount Washington Hotel. out these things, but it was only intended to The Cog, once hailed as the “Second prove itself on a track that went about 600 Greatest Show on Earth” by P.T. Barnum, feet up the mountainside. has remained a key icon of New It was August 29, 1866 when stockholdHampshire’s heritage and has maintained ers, railroad officials and other invited Sylvester Marsh its historic roots by allowing passengers to guests arrived at the base of the mountain take the three-hour guided roundtrip in a to witness the demonstration. The locomohistorically inspired coach powered by 1908 and 1875 tive had been named Hero, but somehow it didn’t look vintage coal-fired steam locomotives or one of the modlike the hero it would soon prove itself to be. ern biodiesel engines, all built on-site. Someone in the crowd thought that the upright boiler It has taken over five million people to the summit durlooked like a pepper sauce bottle, a common item on ing its existence. kitchen tables of the period, and cried: “There’s your Peppersass!” From that moment, the engine was never History In the years just prior to the American Civil War, one known by any other name… On July 3rd, 1869, the Mount Washington Railway 54-year old retired businessman wanted to make a quanofficially opened to the public. It would soon be tum leap by building a railroad to the top of Mount 10 • Byways
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The Peppersass
Summit House, Mt. Washington. This was the second hotel of the name, built in 1872-1873. It burned in 1908. acclaimed as one of the great engineering feats of the century. It was 544 days after the Golden Spike had been driven at Promontory, Utah, which celebrated the opening of the first transcontinental railroad in America, and Ulysses S. Grant was in his first term as President…[Grant] would ride on the Cog Railway later that summer… For 139 years, the Mount Washington Cog Railway remained rooted in 19th century technology, with but
few minor changes since the beginning. Then in 2008, the Mount Washington Cog Railway made a quantum leap into the 21st century with a fleet of cleaner, more efficient and state-of-the-art biodiesel locomotives designed and built on the property by railway personnel.
The Cog Today Today it is the second steepest rack railway in the world after the Pilatus Railway in Switzerland, with an
Passengers wait to board the Cog for the trip to the summit.
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The winding trip to the summit of Mt. Washington. Photos courtesy Mt. Washington Cog Railway. average grade of over 25% and a maximum grade of 37.41%. The railway is approximately 3 miles long and ascends Mount Washington’s western slope, beginning at an elevation of approximately 2,700 feet above sea level and ending just short of the mountain’s summit peak of 6,288 feet. Wayne Presby, current owner of the railway with his wife, Susan, spoke of the first 150 years. “We consider the time we have spent at the railway a great honor. We feel that we have a solemn duty to the state of New Hampshire, its residents and all who have worked to keep the Cog Railway a viable entity. As the current owners of the railway, we intend to do everything in our power to continue to preserve, promote and enhance the railway and to ensure that 150 years from now it will be celebrating its 300th anniversary!”
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Railway to the Moon Festival Starting July 11, the Cog will host its annual Railway to the Moon festival. In its 5th year, this exciting festival is a treat to the senses with costumes, live music, an interactive Steampunk train ride, presentations, tea dueling hosted by Jewelry City Steampunk, and more. The Steampunk festival is a celebration of the inven-
Nearing the summit of Mt. Washington. tiveness of Cog entrepreneur, Sylvester Marsh, and his undaunted will to build a “Railway to the Moon”. It is a combination of the Wild West, meets Jules Verne meets the Victorian Era with a circus atmosphere. https://www.railwaytothemoon.com In a time of rough iron and wooden things, the Mount Washington Cog Railway was an outrageous idea, but enough was rightly done in its creation for it to last into the next century and the next. It has always been privately owned, first by big railroads and then by a succession of local business people. Through the influences
of many changing eras, it has survived hurricanes, washout, fires, depression, recessions, energy crunches, politicians, experts, tinkerers, bad coal and porcupines. The Cog Railway is located at 3168 Base Road, Mount Washington, NH just six miles from historic Bretton Woods and Rte. 302, 3 hours north of Boston and 6 hours north of NYC. More information on the season events, schedule and rates can be found by calling 800-922-8825 or online: https://thecog.com
The Cog on the steep grade.
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Explore Cape Cod by Rail
Cape Cod Central Railroad train in the marshes on Cape Cod, Massachusetts. Photo courtesy Cape Cod Central Railroad.
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Cape Cod Central Railroad diesel. Photo courtesy John Kittredge.
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he Cape Cod Central Railroad takes guests past marshes, cranberry bogs, dunes, and other places only accessible by rail, but which ride to choose? You can enjoy a daytime ride with narrated tales of the history of the canal and how cranberries are harvested? Or maybe a relaxing weekday lunch or Sunday brunch is more your style? Or maybe a sunset dinner train is just the ticket?
Eventually, the desire for passenger transportation resulted in the expansion of the line. Between 1854 and 1959, the line was owned and operated by the Cape Cod Railroad, the Old Colony Railroad, and the New Haven Railroad. The current operation is the namesake of the Cape Cod Central Railroad, which ran from 1861 to 1868, although there is no relation between the two companies. By 1887, 39 years after the railroad first ventured
History Cape Cod Central Railroad is part of Cape Rail, Inc., which also includes the Massachusetts Coastal Railroad “Mass Coastal”. Cape Rail covers approximately 100 miles of track between the two railroads. Mass Coastal is a freight line, and the Cape Cod Central is a heritage, passenger railroad that operates primarily on 27 miles of former New Haven Railroad tracks on Cape Cod. In 1848, the railroad service in Massachusetts first extended to the town of Sandwich on Cape Cod. Originally, it was the Boston & Sandwich Glass Company that made freight service on the Cape necessary. 16 • Byways
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into Cape Cod, it connected 14 of the 15 towns on the Cape. In 1935, the current Cape Cod Canal Railroad Bridge was completed. It is the second longest bridge of its kind in the world. The Cape Cod Dinner Train often crosses over the historic Cape Cod Canal via the Buzzards Bay train bridge. The Cape Cod Canal celebrated its centennial in 2014. The West Barnstable station (1911) and the Buzzards Bay dispatch tower and depot (1911) are all historic buildings. In 1892, the Gray Gables Station was constructed. It was named for President Grover Cleveland’s nearby summer home. That station was retired from use in 1940, but it still remains standing as a museum. By 1959, after World War II, year-round passenger service was discontinued on Cape Cod. It wasn’t until 1999 that the current Cape Cod Central Railroad was founded. Much of the track on the Cape has been removed and replaced with the Cape Cod Rail Trail and the Shining Sea Bikeway. However, the Cape Cod Central Railroad still runs on approximately 27 miles of track from Hyannis to Buzzards Bay.
A dress code is enforced on the dinner train. Photos courtesy Cape Cod Central Railroad.
The Railroad Today Currently, the Cape Cod Central Railroad runs from May through October. It offers narrated excursions, brunch trains, dinner trains, and various special events. Departing regularly from Hyannis, with select additional departures from Buzzards Bay, the Cape Cod Central Railroad is a popular tourist attraction. Guests depart the mid-Cape in Hyannis, travel through West Barnstable and Sandwich, and travel down to the Cape Cod Canal. On the way, they travel through sand dunes and salt marshes, see glimpses of the bay, and have the opportunity to enjoy parts of Cape Cod that are only accessible by rail.
There are three classes of service. Standard Class is First Class passengers enjoy seated tables of four. the most economical way to experience the railroad’s Based on the number of people in your party, you may be scenic excursion. Seating is in double-decker railcars seated with other passengers or have your group split up with seats set up in rows. as space allows. Double Decker cars. Photo courtesy Doug Scott.
Diamond Class is the premier way to travel on the to return to Hyannis. Because of the difference in tides Cape Cod Central Railroad. Passengers enjoy seated between Cape Cod Bay and Buzzards Bay, the canal is tables of four while taking in the passing views from an like a river that changes direction four times a day! elevated space with panoramic windows. Sandwich is the second depot and the oldest town on Cape Cod (1637). The scenic train stops in Sandwich for Four Depots those wishing to visit historic sites on foot. Refer to the In Buzzards Bay, the vertical lift railroad bridge is nor- schedule for later return trains. mally in a raised position for marine traffic to pass underWest Barnstable is the third depot. neath. It is lowered by the U.S. Corp of Army Engineers Hyannis is the fourth depot, and the commercial cento allow the dinner trains to travel over the canal to the ter of Cape Cod, with many attractions to visit. town of Buzzards Bay, where the train reverses direction
Dinner Train Dress Code
The vertical lift railroad bridge is lowered to allow dinner train travel to Buzzards Bay. Photos courtesy Cape Cod Central Railroad.
In order to create an enjoyable atmosphere and authentic vintage dining train experience for all patrons, a dress code is enforced for some Cape Cod Central food service trains, including the Cape Cod Dinner Train. For these trains, proper attire for gentlemen is a collared shirt and dress slacks (jacket or tie recommended but not required), and for ladies, it’s a skirt, dress, or dressy slacks. Jeans, T-shirts, shorts, tank tops, and flip flops are considered inappropriate dress. Get up close to the hidden beauty of the Cape aboard the Cape Cod Central Railroad! The classic two-hour excursion ride brings passengers up close and personal with the beauty of the Cape, including woodlands, sand dunes, cranberry bogs, salt marshes, and the famous Cape Cod Canal. The onboard narration adds another dimension, keeping guests informed and entertained throughout the duration of the journey. The three-hour Cape Cod Dinner Train is a true culinary journey. It travels through quaint villages accompanied by romantic music and soft candlelight. As guests soak in the splendor of the seaside community, a fresh, delicious meal is prepared. Stay and play in the Cape! Fill your itinerary with the best things to do in Cape Cod, including history and heritage, arts and culture, and outdoor activities. Hyannis has many lodging properties, from independently-owned businesses to national chains. Feeling a little hungry? Cape Cod is known for its cultural dining and warm hospitality. For schedule information, visit: https://www.capetrain.com
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Steam Engine 1702 on the Smoky Mountain Railroad. Photo courtesy Wikimedia Commons.
North Carolina’s Great Smoky Mountains Railroad
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ith 53 miles of track, two tunnels and 25 bridges, the Great Smoky Mountains Railroad will take you on a memorable journey through a remote and beautiful corner of North Carolina. Ride through river gorges, across valleys and through tunnels carved out of majestic mountains. The Great Smoky Mountains Railroad will take you on a journey through the Carolina Mountains and some of the most beautiful landscapes in America. The Carolina Mountains border the entire western edge of North Carolina, comprising some 52 percent of the Great Smoky Mountains National Park. The region also includes the southern crest of the Blue Ridge Mountains, Pisgah, Cherokee, and Nantahala National Forests. Hundreds of years ago, glacial and volcanic movement left etchings still visible on the land. In more recent times, roads and flood controls have opened the area to commerce and tourism. Early in the 20th century, the railway played a major part of the story of the development of the region. Scenic rail excursions take you from the historic depot in Bryson City, through the beautiful countryside of western North Carolina. A variety of train options and special event trains makes the Smoky Mountain Railroad 20 • Byways
perfect for making memories! Dine in the First Class Cars with a private attendant and breathtaking views or take it all in while riding in an Open Air Gondola. All scenic, round-trip excursions depart from Bryson City. Trips range from 3½ hours to a full day of fun and adventure. The Nantahala Gorge Excursion carries you 44 miles to the Nantahala Gorge and back again. Travel the Little Tennessee and Nantahala Rivers across Fontana Lake and into the magic of the Nantahala Gorge.
The Tuckasegee River Excursion travels 32-miles roundtrip along the Tuckasegee River through old railroad towns and scenic meadows. Specialty excursions include the Special Event Dinner Trains: Peanuts™The Easter Beagle Express, Peanuts™ The Great Pumpkin Patch Express, and Polar Express.™ Railroad depots are located in three historic towns: Dillsboro, a village of shops and crafts; Bryson City, located on the edge of the Great Smoky Mountains National Park; and Andrews, a scenic valley in the Snowbird Mountains. All were founded in the 1800s and have retained aspects of their original character, adding to their historic charm.
History The Murphy Branch of the Western North Carolina Railroad delivered thousands of mountaineers from the wilderness of their landlocked hills. A year after iron rails reached Asheville in 1880, workers scattered to the west of the city, digging, filling, and blasting an extension of the line that stretched 116 miles to Murphy, providing thousands with a path to reach the outside world. Passenger business was so good by the turn of the 20th
century that six passenger trains ran every day between Asheville and Lake Junaluska and four daily between Asheville and Murphy. The Murphy Branch experienced its heaviest use during wartime, in the early 1940s when the massive
1702 is the only steam engine in service on the railroad. Photo coutesy Great Smoky Mountains Railroad.
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At the depot in Bryson City. Photo courtesy Great Smoky Mountains Railroad. Fontana Dam was constructed. Thousands of carloads of cement, equipment, and other materials reached the construction site by rail on a spur line built from Bushnell to Fontana. Huge shipments of copper ore from mines in the western end of North Carolina and Copperhill, Tennessee, increased the line’s tonnage. In the 1920s, ribbons of concrete crawled through the mountains, linking towns together. With the increasing popularity of the automobile, passenger traffic on the Murphy Branch, then owned by the sprawling Southern Railway System, began to decline. Southern discontinued all passenger traffic on the Murphy Branch on July 16th, 1948, ending 64 years of service that had opened western North Carolina to the outside world. By 1988, many entities had come together to form the Great Smoky Mountains Railway, which then began running excursions. Rolling stock for the GSMR was purchased from various railroads around the nation. The Dillsboro to Nantahala route 22 • Byways
was one of the most scenic on the Murphy Branch and the excursion trains caught on right away. Upward of 200,000 passengers enjoy the scenery each year aboard the excursion trains.
In the Movies The famous train wreck scene in the 1993 Warner Brothers blockbuster movie The Fugitive starring One of 5 diesel engines operated by the line. Photo courtesy Wikimedia Commons.
Harrison Ford and Wreckage from the famous train crash scene Tommy Lee Jones was in the movie The Fugitive remains for all to filmed in Dillsboro along see. Photo courtesy Vicky Somma on flickr. the Great Smoky Mountains Railroad. The wreckage set can still be viewed on eastbound Tuckasegee River Excursions departing from Bryson City. The Great Smoky Mountains Railroad was also used in the filming of 1996 Warner Brothers comedy My Fellow Americans starring Jack Lemmon and James Garner when they stumble on to a charter train full of UNC-Chapel Hill fans headed for the NCAA Final Four. Train scenes in the 1999 Natalie Wood, Robert Redford, and Charles Bronson. DreamWorks SKG film Forces of Nature starring Ben For more information on visiting the Great Smoky Affleck and Sandra Bullock were also filmed on the Mountains Railroad, visit: Great Smoky Mountains Railroad. GSMR’s 2-8-0 steam locomotive #1702 was featured https://www.gsmr.com in the 1966 film, This Property Is Condemned, starring Crossing a bridge. Photo courtesy YouTube.
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Colorado’s Model Railroad Museum
Union Pacific steam engine is one of 500 scale model locomotives at the Colorado Model Railroad Museum in Greeley. Photo courtesy Colorado Model Railroad Museum. Byways • 25
The museum offers an open air design with broad aisles to view the trains and scenery. Photos courtesy Colorado Model Railroad Museum.
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he Colorado Model Railroad Museum is one of the finest, one-of-a-kind miniature accomplishments in the world. The 5,500 sq. feet building required over five years and 280,000 volunteer hours to complete. Located in Greeley, Colorado, this unique museum has hundreds of railroad sceneries, more than 500 scale locomotives, 80 scale miles of train track, thousands of other handmade artifacts including some 28,000 handmade trees. The museum also houses a 1919 Colorado and Southern Caboose that you can tour. Unlike typical model railroads, the museum utilizes an open air design with broad aisles and theatrical lighting, allowing visitors to clearly view the detailed scenery from just inches away. The Colorado Model Railroad Museum utilizes a dispatcher for train operations for the public. These quality characteristics have attracted visitors from all over the world, reaching as far as Australia and New Zealand. Since its opening in 2009, the museum has attracted more than 150,000 visitors, about 20,000 visitors from up to 50 different countries each year. The Colorado Model Railroad Museum was founded by Dave Trussell, whose dream was to build the ultimate model railroad layout. As a youngster in the tiny Missouri town of Shelbina, his grandfather worked as 26 • Byways
The museum is popular with visitors of all ages. the station agent for the Burlington Railroad. In the ensuing years David was a regular fixture at his grandfather’s depot, growing up to the sound of telegraph keys, the dependable ticking of the huge station clock gracing a marble-lined waiting room
and the roar of passing trains. In 2002, after a 32-year career in journalism publishing more than a half dozen newspapers in the western United States, Trussell sold his newspaper stock and “retired”. Byways • 27
These model train engines are part of a collection of more than 500. He took stock of his talents and the idea of designing and building a miniature railroad museum, and the idea was born. Ground was broken for the museum in 2002 and construction required his total commitment for the next seven years as the facility and its contents took shape,
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sometimes at an inch-at-a-time pace. Many people contributed to build and maintain this intricate museum, all with the passion for model railroading and the vision of building something spectacular. Take the opportunity to walk through a real caboose and peek into a multitude of miniature scenes that envel-
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op your eyes with detailed, beautiful imagery. Visitors never leave the Colorado Model Railroad Museum disappointed.Â
For more information, visit: https://www.cmrm.org
All train activity begins and ends at the Control Center. Photos courtesy Colorado Model Railroad Museum.
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Traveling the Highways & Byways with Bill Graves
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f you have driven Interstate-80 in eastern Nebraska, I am confirming what you probably suspected. For 72 miles of I-80 west of Lincoln, the road does not vary by more than a few yards from being a straight line. It’s the longest straight stretch of interstate highway anywhere in the system. Continuing westbound, out of Grand Island, I-80 dips south to accommodate those who want to see the Great Platte River Road Archway that spans the Interstate at Kearney. The Archway is actually a two-story museum that tells the story of the pioneer trails that run by here — Oregon, Mormon and California. It appears from a distance as an oversized covered bridge. After driving for hours across a featureless prairie, most of it in a straight line, it’s a certainty to get your attention.
North Platte, Nebraska You can cross Nebraska in a day on I-80, if you can handle 455 miles without a sleep stop. But seeing any state through a windshield is no way to travel. For most of us, the journey is what it's all about – the joy is found not in finishing it, but in doing it. Having said that, down the road another 150 miles from Kearney is North Platte. It’s a city of 25,000, that offers a visitor more interesting things to discover than places three times its size
Union Pacific’s Bailey Yard, the world’s largest rail yard, is located in North Platte, Nebraska.
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The big one is the Bailey Yard – the world’s largest rail yard. Operated by the Union Pacific, it sorts, services and repairs locomotives and rail cars that roll all over North America. Midway between Chicago and Salt Lake, it covers 2,850 acres, is eight miles long, two miles wide and has 315 miles of track with 985 switches built in. An average of 139 trains or 14,000 rail cars pass through the Bailey Yard every day. Coal trains alone number 35 loaded and 35 empty every day — they average 130 cars each. The great thing for us is the Golden Spike Tower with an enclosed deck, 95-feet above the ground, offering a full view of the yard. I met a retired conductor up there — a few hundred live in town — who told me that the UP burns 18 million gallons of fuel every month. Still, trains are the cheapest way to move things around the country, except for people. Between 1945 and 1964, rail passenger travel declined 84 percent in the U.S. The automobile had picked up the difference. Then airplanes with jet engines came along. By the end of the 1970s, the glory days of passenger trains were over. But during World War II, trains carried everything across the country including millions of troops. Every troop train stopped in North Platte long enough for its crew to service its steam engine, usually about 15 minutes. Beginning on Christmas Day 1941, 18 days after the attack on Pearl Harbor, the folks in this town and country met every troop train, day and night, offering homemade cookies, sandwiches, and especially angel-food cake, to the servicemen and women. More than six million of them visited the North Platte Canteen during the 51 months of the war. To fully appreciate what these generous Nebraskans did, this was a time of rationing – sugar, coffee, gas — all the things it took to run the canteen. Some days up to 3,000 servicemen passed through here. And no one ever left hungry or without a hug. Some of those guys came back to North Platte, married local girls that they met in the canteen. Many still live here.
Golden Spike Tower. Byways Photos.
About the author: After seeing much of the world as a career naval officer, Bill Graves decided, after he retired, to take a closer look at the United States. He has been roaming the country for 20 years, much of it in a motorhome with his dog Rusty. He lives in Rancho Palos Verdes, California and is the author of On the Back Roads, Discovering Small Towns. of America. He can be reached at Roadscribe@aol.com.
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Locomotive 618 ran from 2008-2010 in limited capacity and was then taken out of service for a 1,472-day inspection and major overhaul. It hopes to be back in service soon. Photo courtesy Heber Valley Railroad. 32 • Byways
Utah’s Heber Valley Railroad
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Heber Valley Railroad diesel and the Wasatch Mountains. Photos courtesy Heber Valley Railroad.
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he Heber Valley Railroad is a heritage railroad based in Heber City, Utah. It operates passenger excursion trains along a line between Heber City and Vivian Park, which is located in Provo Canyon. The railroad carries more than 100,000 passengers annually. The railroad’s main depot is located in Heber City. Other passenger terminals are located at Soldier Hollow (near Midway, Utah) and Vivian Park. The railroad operates year-round, and features special event and evening train rides. The railroad line is approximately 16 miles long. A typical roundtrip ride takes about 3 hours. Notable landmarks seen from the train include Mount Timpanogos, Cascade Mountain, Deer Creek Dam and Reservoir, Provo River, Sundance Ski Resort, Tate Barn, and Soldier Hollow.
ed freight and passenger service until the line’s abandonment in 1967. The line was saved for tourist use and was reopened in 1970 when No. 618 and other equipment was brought up the line from Provo. The track between Provo and Vivian Park was later removed and converted into a recreational trail. During the 1970s and 1980s the railroad operat-
History The line was formerly part of a Denver and Rio Grande Western Railroad branch line that connected Heber City to Provo, Utah. The branch line was completed in 1899 and operat34 • Byways
Mount Timpanogos. Photo courtesy Brian Smith and Wikimedia Commons.
ed as the “Heber Creeper”. In the late 1980s this railroad went out of business. Citizens in the Heber area successfully petitioned the State of Utah to help save the railroad, leading to creation of the Heber Valley Historic Railroad Authority in the early 1990s. Since this time the railroad has seen considerable growth.
Winter Olympics During the 2002 Winter Olympics the railroad was part of the Olympic Steam Team, carrying spectators to the Soldier Hollow Olympic venue. The railroad’s No. 618 and 75 steam engines were joined by the Nevada Northern Railway Museum’s No. 93 steam engine, in pulling eight-car trains full of passengers, to the Soldier Hollow depot where they disembarked and continued to the venue entrance on a horse-drawn sleigh. The day prior to the Opening Ceremony of the games, all three locomotives were combined into one triple-headed train, and used to transport the Olympic flame from Soldier Hollow to Heber City as part of the torch relay.
You are more than likely to be held up on the Heber Valley Line. Watch your valuables!
Scheduled Trains Provo Canyon Limited: A three-hour roundtrip excursion to Vivian Park. Enjoy breathtaking views of Mt. Timpanogos and the dramatic, glacier-carved landscape of the Provo Canyon. The Provo Canyon Limited departs from the Heber Valley Railroad Station in Heber
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City, winds around the shores of Deer Creek Reservoir, and then travels along the banks of the beautiful Provo River to Vivian Park. Lakeside Limited: A two-hour ride along the shores of Deer Creek Reservoir and the base of majestic Mt. Timpanogos. This “over the river and through the woods” ride provides a spectacular view of Heber Valley and breathtaking fall/winter scenery. You might spot a variety of native wildlife such as mule deer, bald eagles, elk, coyotes, or foxes along the way. This ride usually includes a train robbery when the train briefly stops at the Soldier Hollow platform. Deer Creek Express: This 90 minute trip offers incredible views of the Wasatch Mountains, the wide-open vistas of Deer Creek Reservoir, and the beautiful Heber Valley. The Deer Creek Express departs from the depot, follows the shores of Deer Creek Reservoir to Decker Bay, and returns. This ride ao usually includes a train robbery when the train briefly stops at the Soldier Hollow platform. A number of special train themes are also offered throughout the year. They include Chinese New Year train, Rockn-Roll train, Broadway Show Tunes train, Princes & Pirate train, Valentines Special, and Chocolate Lovers train.
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Steam Locomotive No. 618 Locomotive No. 618 was used in the 2006 film, Outlaw Trail: The Treasure of Butch Cassidy. The locomotive, now 113 years old, ran from 2008-2010 in limited capacity and was then taken out of service for a 1,472-day inspection and major overhaul, as required to meet Federal Railroad Administration safety standards. The non-profit railroad raised the $750,000 required for the project to give #618 another 30 years of service. Its restoration, including conversion from coal to oil burning, is expected to be completed soon. For additional information, visit: https://www.gohebervalley.com
The train follows the shores of Deer Creek Reservoir, and the along the banks of the beautiful Provo River to Vivian Park. 36 • Byways
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Steam engine on the V&T Railroad at Sunset. Photo courtesy Virginia & Truckee Railroad. 38 • Byways
Rolling with the Virginia & Truckee Railroad Celebrating 150 years in 2020
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Exiting Tunnel No. 4. Photos courtesy Virginia & Truckee Railroad. or the Virginia & Truckee Railroad, the story of its future as part of Nevada’s living history will be guided by its illustrious 150-year past. The signature green and yellow cars made famous during the Comstock Lode continue to provide a historic reminder of what was and still is. The “Queen of the Short Lines” is running full steam ahead with train rides between Virginia City and Gold Hill daily throughout the summer season. The popular family attraction takes riders back through time from 1859 when the Comstock Lode was discovered.
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Seven Tunnels
History
Tradition
Completed in 1869 as a commercial freight railroad to haul ore, lumber and supplies to serve the Comstock mining communities, the V&T became the most famous and richest short line in the world. It transported United States presidents and dignitaries to the “Richest City on Earth” through the peak years of 1876-1878 when silver ore worth $36 million was extracted annually and when as many as 45 trains per day arrived and departed the booming town. Today, visitors can embark on a four-mile, 35-minute narrated train ride via steam or diesel through Virginia City to the quaint mining town of Gold Hill. 40 • Byways
The route passes through Tunnel No. 4, the last before Virginia City, elevation 6,300-feet, and one of seven built for the 1600-foot descent to the valley floor. The route affords views of 17 Bonanza mine sites, historic buildings throughout the rustic town, and a feel and flavor for Americana. The Queen of the Short Lines today offers seven departures daily with the first departure from Virginia City at 10:30am, with the last departing Gold Hill at 4:35pm. It operates May through October. Tradition has long been a key word concerning the V&T. Like many railroads in the 1920s it fell victim to the advance of automobiles, trucking and highways and specifically declining mining revenues before it was abandoned in 1950. It was more than 20 years later when Robert C. Gray, a man fascinated with steam trains as a youngster realized a long-held dream to resurrect the train. In 1938 he rode the final V&T Railroad train to Virginia City. His labor of love saved the V&T from an eternal scrapyard. The renovation began in the 1970s and he worked tirelessly for more than 40 years to preserve an integral part of Nevada’s history and culture.
In 1972 he traded the remains of a family ranch for the then abandoned V&T Railroad property in Virginia City, Nevada. He conducted the painstaking research, obtained governmental approvals, financed, relayed track, and ran his first popular steam tourist train on July 2, 1976, just in time for the Nation’s historic bicentennial celebrations. Robert kept operating and improving the V&T Railroad without compensation for nearly 50 years, and he was active as president until 95 years old. Spearheaded through Gray’s vision and efforts, a major portion of the original 16-mile route between Carson City and Virginia City was reconstructed. The public Nevada Commission for the Reconstruction of the V&T Railway rebuilt the line from Gold Hill (connecting with the current V&T Railroad) to Carson City, running the first train over the line in 68 years in 2009. The route operates today as a separate tourism attraction operating on summer weekends. The Gray legacy segued to Bob’s son, Tom who started working on and off with his dad as a teenager. When the family patriarch passed away at 97, Tom assumed even greater responsibilities. When asked how his father achieved the longheld goal of resuscitating and preserving the V&T for current and future generations, Tom replied, “That generation believed in hard work, perseverance and old school values.”
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Below Tunnel No. 2. Photo courtesy Drew Jacksich and Wikimedia Commons.
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Snow covered Sierra Nevada Mountains and V&T steam train. Photo courtesy Dr. John A. Kirchner. Through his years railroading with his father, Tom has rails made famous from the storied silver boomtown embraced the understanding that the story the V&T has days of the 1850s and 1860s. come to represent reflects what it has been. The Virginia & Truckee R.R. is internationally renowned with its locomotives and cars featured on the Today big screen in dozens of motion pictures. Today, 80 years after the last train left the Comstock, Virginia City Depot is located at 166 F Street, Virginia families, history buffs, train fanatics, curious locals and City, Nevada 89440. For details, schedule and specialty visitors can discover the joys of riding the rails. train rides call: 775.847.0380. Or visit: https://www.virginiatruckee.com Authentic engines over 100 years old will chug, rumble, rock and roll along the original Comstock Lode ribbon of Byways • 43
7 Wonders of the Gorge Cruise
Mt. Hood viewed from the Columbia River Gorge. Photo courtesy Portland Spirit Cruises. 44 • Byways
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The Columbia River Gorge. Photos courtesy Portland Spirit Cruises.
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ortland Spirit Cruises & Events, a leading sightseeing, dining, and specialty cruise operator in Portland, Oregon, has announced a new cruise offering for their 26th summer season—the 7 Wonders of the Gorge sightseeing tour. Guests will experience a 3-hour excursion into the lower Columbia River Gorge aboard Portland Spirit’s premier Crystal Dolphin vessel. The new tour will showcase seven of the most spectacular landscapes in the Pacific Northwest region. Cruising twice daily during the 2020 summer season, from July 5 through August 31, this limited-time offering makes for a fantastic warm-weather family or group experience, or even a romantic outing for a couple to enjoy the views from the river at sunset.
Columbia River Gorge “The Columbia River Gorge is home to some of the best natural wonders in the world and we are excited to showcase their beauty to our guests while aboard one of our finest vessels,” said Aaron Greene, Marketing Director at Portland Spirit Cruises & Events. “We invite both local residents and visitors alike to join us this summer and not miss out on an unforgettable experience for the whole family.” The 7 Wonders of the Gorge cruise will guide guests to the most 46 • Byways
majestic views visible by water along the lower Columbia River Gorge, a National Scenic Area. Sights include the Columbia River, Cape Horn, Multnomah Falls, Crown Point, Rooster Rock, Beacon Rock, and Mount Hood. These tours will be fully narrated. The 3-hour cruise is offered twice per day, at 12:00pm and 4:30pm. Once aboard the Crystal Dolphin vessel, guests have full access to all three decks of the ship, including the 360-degree Starlight Viewing Deck. A fullservice bar and snacks are available for purchase.
Departure Location The 7 Wonders of the Gorge cruise will depart from the Port of Camas-Washougal, located in Washougal,
Beacon Rock on the Columbia River Gorge.
The Columbia River Gorge. Photos courtesy Portland Spirit Cruises. Washington, outside of Vancouver, Washington. The ator of sightseeing cruises, dinner ships, and specialty Port of Camas has recently expanded its waterfront infra- events from downtown Portland, Oregon and the structure making commercial use of their dock viable. Columbia River Gorge. The Port is located on the western boundary of the For more information, visit: https://www.portlandspirit.com Columbia Gorge Scenic area. Portland Spirit Cruises & Events is a family-run oper-
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Byways is published bi-monthly by Byways, Inc. and distributed electronically throughout North America. Byways is emailed to more than 4000 tour operators /Travel Trade. Subscriptions are complimentary. An iPad & iPhone version is available for consumers in iTunes in the App Store. An Android browser version is available at www.issuu.com/byways. Byways’ distribution includes motorcoach companies, tour operators, selected travel agents, bank travel managers, school band and athletic planners, meeting planners and the travel trade. For advertising rates, editorial deadlines, or to place advertising insertions, contact: Byways Magazine at 502-785-4875. ©Copyright 2020 by Byways, Inc. All rights reserved. No portion of this publication may be duplicated in any form without express written permission of the publisher. Editor and Publisher Stephen M. Kirchner
Advertising 502-785-4875 Internet bywaysmagazine.com byways@motorcoach.com Byways on Facebook Byways on Twitter
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