Featuring North America’s Leading Travel Destinations
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Instant Connect Direct One-Click links to Advertisers
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Preview
By Stephen Kirchner, Editor & Publisher
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elcome to the annual Great American Roads issue of Byways.
When John Denver released Take Me Home, Country Roads in 1973 few expected the song to become the most popular song in the country. Fewer still expected it to become the official song of the State of West Virginia. When you listen to its words like country roads, almost heaven, take me home, they so well describe the state that it is only natural that it became West Virginia’s official anthem. In this issue of Byways we travel some of these country roads through the mountains of West Virginia, and learn why its scenic beauty is almost heaven! Then we cross the border into some of Kentucky’s less traveled roads. These scenic drives explore Kentucky’s hidden gems no matter the season. Travel from Frankfort to Lexington, winding your way through beautiful scenic horse farms. The Red River Gorge Scenic Byway offers colorful foliage in the fall and the spectacular Nada Tunnel year-round – the onelane tunnel is 900-feet long, created in the early 1900s for timber hauling. This is the “Year of Music” in Kentucky, and you can take in the sights and sounds of Kentucky’s country music heritage by driving along the Country Music Highway (U.S. 23). This area has produced more hit country artists than any other region per capita. They include Loretta Lynn, Crystal Gayle, The Judds, Chris Stapleton, Tyler Childers, Billy Ray Cyrus, Tom T. Hall, Ricky Skaggs, Keith Whitley, Dwight Yoakam and Patty Loveless. Next, explore the Great River Road in Arkansas. Comprised of 10 counties located along The Natural State’s eastern border, the Great River Road region is one of the most beautiful collections of landscapes you’ll find in the South. Byways 4
Music is the proverbial heartbeat of the region, with musical legends Johnny Cash, Louis Jordan, Sister Rosetta Tharpe, Conway Twitty, Charlie Rich, Al Green, William Warfield, Albert King and Sonny Boy Williamson once calling the region home. The historic Byway traverses the state from the Missouri line to the Mississippi and Louisiana borders. We were surprised to learn that Indiana has 98 covered bridges. But it was harder to believe that one county, Parke County, has 31 of those bridges. Parke County lies in the western part of Indiana along the Wabash River. Indiana’s most famous covered bridge and waterfall is also here, at Bridgeton Mill. The dam is nine feet tall and 220 feet long. The bridge itself is 261 feet long. Visitors can view Bridgeton Mill and the other 30 covered bridges via a self-guided tour. Next, head north to South Dakota. Here, monuments, national parks and natural wonders give it the makings for the perfect road trip. Scenic byways take travelers through the other-worldly formations of the Badlands to world-famous monuments like Mount Rushmore. Come along as Byways travels on five of South Dakota’s most scenic state and national byways. In his Highways & Byways column, Bill Graves takes us to the mountains of Montana. He stops in Butte, one of the real wild west towns of the Old West. Here is a real story of the immigrants that helped build this country: mining booms and busts, hundreds of bars and gambling parlors, and the oldest continuing operating brothel in the country. In What’s Happening, Byways visits California’s Danish village of Solvang. Founded by Danes relocating to California in 1911, sights include Danish windmills, half-timbered houses, the Danish rural church and the Round Tower, plus the worldfamous Danish pastries. We hope you enjoy this issue of Byways.
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Volume 37, Issue No. 5 2020 On the Cover. Highland Scenic Byway in the heart of the Monongahela National Forest in West Virginia. Photo courtesy West Virginia Tourism.
Features Almost Heaven Mountain Scenic Byways ............................................................................................. 8 Kentucky’s Roads Less Traveled ........................................................................................................ 14 The Great River Road in Arkansas...................................................................................................... 20 Indiana’s Covered Bridge Capital ....................................................................................................... 30 South Dakota’s Scenic Byways ........................................................................................................... 36
Departments Byways Instant Connect ........................................................................................................................ 3 Byways Preview .................................................................................................................................... 4 Traveling the Highways & Byways with Bill Graves............................................................................. 26 Advertiser/Sponsored Content Index .................................................................................................. 47
What’s Happening California’s Danish Village................................................................................................................... 44
Coming in Future Issues Coming in future issues of Byways . . . Dams & Bridges, Great American Railroads, Mountains and Valleys and more . . .
Next Up: Dams and Bridges Right. Grand Coulee Dam on the Columbia River in Washington state is the largest power station in the United States.
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ightsee from comfort along these scenic drives through the mountains of West Virginia.
From the mountainous backcountry to history-packed byways, West Virginia has a scenic drive to suit every preference. Ride up and down the wild country roads discovering the beauty of the Mountain State, from the rich rolling farmlands to the wildflowerfilled valleys. Along the way, uncover Appalachia’s unique culture and history plus a few hidden gems.
Historic National Road Travel back in time without ever stepping out of your vehicle. The Historic National Road, also known as the Cumberland Road, was the nation’s first federally funded interstate highway. The 620-mile road opened the nation to the West and became a corridor for the movement of goods and people. The road spans East to West, from Cumberland, Maryland all the way to Vandalia, Illinois and includes a section in Wheeling, West Virginia. One of the key highlights on this historic thoroughfare is the 1,307-foot long Wheeling Suspension Bridge. This iconic structure links the Byways 10
main channel of the Ohio River and was once the largest suspension bridge in the world from 1849 until 1851. Historic Wheeling, once the state capital, dazzles in Victorian beauty – from frilly homes to Centre Market, which is now home to eateries, antique shops, salons, bakeries and cafes. The Market is a Victorian-era mall that dates back to 1853. The Capitol Theatre, with its garlands, arched windows and scrolled cartouches, has hosted celebrities like Loretta Lynn and Johnny Cash as part of concerts and plays.
Highland Scenic Byway In the heart of the Monongahela National Forest lies one of the most beautiful and scenic drives found anywhere on the East Coast. A drive down the Highland Scenic Byway will lead to some of the most incredible adventures the Mountain State has to offer. Navigate 43 miles through a wild and timbered portion of the Monongahela National Forest on the Highland Scenic Byway. Hardwood forests cover
rolling, mountainous terrain capped by dark spruce at high elevations. Traverse a narrow and steep-walled valley with views of clear mountain streams. This designated National Scenic Byway extends 43 miles from Richwood to U.S. Route 219, north of Marlinton, WV. Sights include Cranberry Glades Botanical Area, Summit Lake, and Falls of Hills Creek. The USDA Forest Service have created an audio tour to guide visitors through these iconic landscapes. Along the highway, take advantage of the numerous overlooks and short hiking trails like Honeycomb Rocks and the High Rocks Trail. At the close of the highway, head toward Marlinton for a late lunch at the Greenbrier Grille for a sandwich and outdoor dining on the Greenbrier River. Continue following Route 28 then Route 92 North through Durbin and Cheat Bridge toward the final destination of Elkins. With a history steeped in logging and rail, Elkins embodies the spirit of the rugged eastern frontier. This mountain town on the edge of the Monongahela National Forest is a mecca for sportsmen and other
outdoor enthusiasts who come to the area to fish, hunt, bike and hike. Elkins also is a cultural hub, serving as home to several theaters and art galleries. Also located here is The Durbin & Greenbrier Valley Railroad, home of Mountain Rail Adventures which offers scenic train rides and special event trains aboard the New Tygart Flyer, Cheat Mountain Salamander, Durbin Rocket and Cass Scenic Railroad. Located in Davis, Blackwater Falls State Park is an Appalachian oasis filled with jaw-dropping views, outdoor recreation, lodging, dining and so much more. The Falls draw visitors from around the world.
Charleston, The Capital Trail West Virginia’s capital city is perfectly positioned at the confluence of the Kanawha and Elk rivers. Surrounded by mountains on all sides, it’s where three major interstates converge, making it a highly accessible destination for visitors looking for an affordable getaway.
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land where thousands of hard-working miners labored to produce the coal which powered modern America. The Trail is part of the National Coal Heritage Area and begins on Route 52 in Bluefield to Welch, then follows Route 16 towards Ansted.
Charleston’s vibrant culture shines through various downtown museums, shops, art galleries, restaurants and its live music scene, but you can still get a taste of outdoor adventure just minutes away. Stay close to town by visiting Kanawha State Forest, a short 7mile drive, for hiking, mountain biking or crosscountry skiing. Charleston is also just an hour’s drive from the New River Gorge, where you’ll find some of the best outdoor recreation West Virginia has to offer. Adventure by day, then return to the city in the evening for a delicious meal and live entertainment.
Little Kanawha Parkway Skip the highway and take this 77-mile scenic route. Running parallel to the Little Kanawha River along State Route 5. The Little Kanawha River is a tributary of the Ohio River in western West Virginia. This scenic drive traverses from Mineral Wells to Flatwoods. The Little Kanawha Parkway takes travelers through rustic farmlands and quaint rural towns. Allow 2-3 hours to navigate this byway.
Coal Heritage Trail Wind through mountains and valleys of southern WestVirginia showcasing America’s robust industrial heritage. The 98-mile Coal Heritage Trail travels through more than 13 counties and showcases the Byways 12
Bluefield’s origins date back to 1780, when settlers erected a fort. But not until the 1880s did the city, located near a coalfield, become an established community. It was also one of the first in America to have a skyline. The story of the southern West Virginia “smokeless” coalfields is a remarkable legacy of working-class culture, industrial might, racial and ethnic diversity, and the creation of a unique and distinctive culture of national significance. As you journey along the Coal Heritage Trail you will pass through National Historic Districts and see many of the physical remnants of the coal boom including coal miners’ homes, company stores, company offices, railroad yards and other structures that defined life in the coal fields of West Virginia.
Washington Heritage Trail Follow the footsteps of George Washington on the Washington Heritage Trail, and discover the natural and cultural history along 136 miles of the scenic Eastern Panhandle. See 18th century towns, 19th century industrial sites, Washington family homes, springs, rivers and scenic mountain ranges on the drive. Be sure to plan out a few self-guided tours along the way. The Morgan County Driving Tour is an 80-mile segment of the trail that is centered around Berkeley Springs and continues on to the town of Paw Paw. Just a short distance from Washington and Baltimore, West Virginia’s Eastern Panhandle revives visitors
with a relaxed atmosphere full of history, scenery and small-town charm. Berkeley Springs, known for its healing waters since George Washington’s time, remains a popular spa destination today. A certified West Virginia Art Town, it’s also a mecca for antique lovers. Martinsburg celebrates its many historic treasures and bustles with festivals devoted to wine, arts, apples, chocolate, chili and more. Shepherdstown is a picturesque college community with a delightfully eclectic shopping scene and a collection of inviting restaurants.
Staunton-Parkersburg Turnpike The Staunton-Parkersburg Turnpike is a designated National Scenic Byway. It spans 180 miles from the upper Shenandoah Valley in Staunton, Virginia to the Ohio River Valley in Parkersburg, West Virginia. This historical turnpike
served as the gateway to the Shenandoah Valley. Completed in 1848, this road, traveling over the high mountains near the birthplace of rivers, was an engineering marvel, and opened up large sections of western Virginia to settlement and commerce. One of the earliest campaigns of the Civil War was fought for control of this turnpike, and the access it provided to the B&O Railroad. The Battle of Rich Mountain gave the Federals control of the turnpike, of the Tygarts Valley, and all of the territory of western Virginia to the north and west, including the railroad. In 1864 much of the area crossed by the Pike became part of the state of West Virginia. https://wvtourism.com
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oad trip travelers can take advantage of Kentucky’s central location and beautiful scenic drives to explore Kentucky’s hidden gems no matter the season. When you’re ready and feel comfortable traveling on a road trip, Kentucky is waiting. In central Kentucky, take a relaxing drive through Horse Country on Old Frankfort Pike (KY 1681). This 16.9mile Scenic Byway connects Frankfort and Lexington, winding its way through beautiful scenic horse farms surrounded by rock and wooden fences. Hungry? Stop in Wallace Station Deli and Bakery, an unassuming eatery created by popular Chef Ouita Michel. If you turn north onto U.S. 62, you’ll end up in the charming, historic town of Midway with plenty of antique shops, boutiques and restaurants. Byways 16
There’s also Pisgah Pike nearby, an approximately 5mile long roadway running north and south from Old Frankfort Pike to U.S. 60 between Versailles and Lexington. On the Lexington end, you’ll find the The
Kentucky Castle, a magical site, and further east along U.S. 60 is Keeneland, an internationally renowned racecourse and the Thoroughbred industry’s leading auction house. The Red River Gorge National Geological Area has some of the most deeply forested terrain surrounding the paved roads – bikers especially enjoy it. Starting in Powell County near Stanton, drive along the Red River Gorge Scenic Byway for colorful foliage in the fall and the spectacular Nada Tunnel yearround – the one-lane tunnel is 900-feet long that was created in the early 1900s for timber hauling. For history lovers, drive the Wilderness Road Heritage Highway from Middlesboro to Berea, and learn about how the West was settled at Cumberland Gap National Historical Park. Take time to explore Berea, the “Folk Arts and Craft Capital of Kentucky”. This is the “Year of Music” in Kentucky, and you can take in the sights and sounds of Kentucky’s country music heritage by driving along the Country Music Highway (U.S. 23).
This scenic roadway winds through seven counties in far eastern Kentucky, hugging the border of West Virginia and passing by some of Kentucky’s most beautiful state parks. Music and storytelling
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traditions run deep in this part of Kentucky, which has produced more hit country artists than any other region per capita. They Byways 18
include Loretta Lynn, Crystal Gayle, The Judds, Chris Stapleton, Tyler Childers, Billy Ray Cyrus, Tom T. Hall, Ricky Skaggs, Keith Whitley, Dwight Yoakam and Patty Loveless. Start in Ashland at the Highlands Museum and Discovery Center and find a special display dedicated to the Judds and take in a show at the Paramount Arts Center, a restored 1930s art deco
building hosting theater performances, concerts and private events. Continue south to the Paintsville area and visit the U.S. 23 Country Music Highway Museum featuring exhibits and memorabilia about the area’s country music stars. Don’t miss Loretta Lynn’s Homeplace in “Butcher Holler” and Webb’s Grocery Store. This singersongwriter’s birthplace and family home is nestled between two fog shrouded mountains up a “holler” in Van Lear. Visitors wishing to tour Loretta Lynn’s homeplace will need to stop in Webb’s Grocery, a historic general store currently owned by Loretta Lynn’s brother, Herman Webb. For more information, visit https://www.kentuckytourism.com
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Colony was created in 1934 as part of President Franklin D. Roosevelt’s New Deal to aid in the nation’s economic recovery from the Great Depression.
Music is the proverbial heartbeat of the region, with musical legends Johnny Cash, Louis Jordan, Sister Rosetta Tharpe, Conway Twitty, Charlie Rich, Al Green, William Warfield, Albert King and Sonny Boy Williamson once calling the region home.
As a federal agricultural resettlement community, it provided a fresh start for nearly 500 impoverished Arkansas farm families, including the family of music legend Johnny Cash. The colony has been resurrected through the restoration of several historic buildings open to visitors. The Johnny Cash Boyhood Home is less than two miles from the Colony Center. It is furnished as it appeared when the Cash family lived there, based on family memories.
rkansas’s Great River Road region is one of the most beautiful collections of landscapes you’ll find in the South. Comprised of 10 counties located along The Natural State’s eastern border, the Great River Road of Arkansas features some of the richest history in the region.
The historic Byway traverses the state from the Missouri line to the Mississippi and Louisiana borders. Along the way, road trippers will come across a myriad of attractions and historical sites. Established in 1886 as a sawmill, the town of Wilson (named after founder R.E.L. Wilson) is home to Hampson Archeological Museum State Park, White’s Mercantile and the great Wilson Café. Less than a 15-minute drive west is Historic Dyess Colony: Johnny Cash Boyhood Home. The Dyess Byways 22
Following the Byway south, find Marion, home to the Sultana Disaster Museum. The Sultana sank on the Mississippi River near the community in April 1865 and is America’s worst maritime disaster. Nearly 1,200 of the more than 2,100 passengers and crew were lost in the explosion and fire which sank the Sultana near Marion, across the river from Memphis, Tennessee. The steamboat was designed to carry only 376 passengers.
Continuing south, travelers can explore West Memphis, home to Southland Casino Racing and Big River Crossing. Opened in 2016, Big River Crossing is the longest public pedestrian/bike bridge across the Mississippi River, providing dramatic views of its ever-changing landscape. By connecting Main Streets in Memphis and West Memphis, the BRX ties together urban, rural, and natural areas and gives users recreation options unique to each setting. Marianna is home to Jones BarB-Q Diner, Arkansas’s first James Beard award-winner and, according to the Southern Foodways Alliance, the oldest continuously operated African American restaurant in the South. Don’t miss a trip through the nearby St. Francis National Forest and Mississippi River State Park. Historic Helena is the only downtown located on the Mississippi River for 300 miles between Memphis and Vicksburg. Helena has an array of attractions,
including the Delta Cultural Center, Freedom Park and the Helena Museum of Phillips County. The town is also home to the King Biscuit Blues Festival, an award-winning and world-renowned event held each October.
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Continuing south, visitors will find more great attractions and historic sites, including historic St. Charles. The town is located approximately 115 miles southeast of Little Rock and 110 miles southwest of West Memphis. St. Charles is situated along the banks of the White River. On June 17, 1862, Confederate sharpshooters positioned along the banks of the White attacked four Union gunboats. Using guns from several Confederate warships, the marksmen began firing on the ships as they closed in on the town. One of the shots hit the steam drum of the USS Mound City, killing over 100 of the soldiers onboard. It would become known as “the deadliest shot of the Civil War�. Also located along the Great River Road are Arkansas Post National Memorial in Gillett and the World War II Japanese American Internment Museum in McGehee. War hysteria, racial prejudice, and failure of political leadership led to the forced removal of 120,000 Japanese Americans from the West Coast following the 1941 attack on Pearl Harbor. One of those relocation centers was The Rohwer Japanese American Relocation Byways 24
Center located in swampy southeast Arkansas with 500 acres set aside for internee living quarters surrounded by 10,000 acres for farming and timber harvesting. The WWII Japanese American Internment Museum opened in April 2013 and is housed in the renovated south building of the McGehee Railroad Depot. You can get an up-close view of the Mississippi River at the Choctaw Island Wildlife Management Area in Arkansas City. Lake Village lies on the curving shore of picturesque Lake Chicot, a 20-mile long abandoned channel of
the Mississippi River that is Arkansas’s largest natural lake and the largest oxbow lake in North America. The historic Lakeport Plantation near Lake Village is the only remaining Arkansas plantation located along the Mississippi River that has not been significantly altered. Just north of downtown, a marker records the site where Charles Lindbergh landed in April 1923 after completing history’s first night flight. There’s no better way to experience beautiful Arkansas than with a road trip along the state’s section of the Great River Road National Scenic Byway. For more information on visiting Arkansas, go to: https://www.arkansas.com t
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Traveling the Highways & Byways with Bill Graves Butte, Montana I woke up in Butte feeling depressed. It wasn’t Butte’s fault; I hardly knew the place. Darkness had come early yesterday and I took refuge here from the assaults of a lightning storm.
For a state whose name is “mountain,” Montana has showed Rusty and me more miles of rolling prairie than anything -- until yesterday, that is. The horizons closed in on us and we got intimate with Montana’s “big sky”. Those hours driving here from Billings, I am not sure what was out there, other than the succession of the wet highway stripes of Interstate 90. In the fly-fisherman’s town of Livingston, I stopped at a mini-mart to let Rusty out while the rain took a rest. Nose to the ground, she wandered through puddles. Funny thing about that dog – she shakes as if she has been swimming after just getting her feet wet. An hour north of Yellowstone Park, Livingston drew its paycheck from the Northern Pacific Railroad in its early years. Vulnerable to every national recession that came along, it had its final payday in 1986, when the railroad abandoned its extensive machine shops here. As it does, time has a way of fixing things. Today those shops employ 150 mechanics, machinists and painters who rebuild locomotives and railcars from all over the United States and Canada. But Livingston is headed off in a new direction now. It’s surrounded by streams ideal for floating a dry fly. Obviously, fishermen pour in here from everywhere. It follows that Livingston is also the home of one of the world’s largest wholesalers of fishing tackle – Don Bailey’s Fly Shop. The shop employs a couple dozen fly tiers on a piecework basis, who produce a half a million trout flies a year. I picked up all this intelligence while three of us waited in the mini-mart for a lady to refill the cocoa machine. Byways 26
People love to talk about their hometown – a consistency in human nature that is true wherever I travel. Fortified with a cup of steaming cocoa, which the lady gave all of us free, because we were so patient, I continued west on the interstate, by Bozeman, Belgrade and Three Forks. Sheets of gray blew across the grasslands broken now by the white faces of Herefords. Relative newcomers, their time on this land is a mere millisecond compared to their cousins who preceded them.
The buffalo dominated here for eight thousand years. The Indian tribes found in those descendants of the mastodons a four-legged grocery, hardware and dry goods store. The Indian ate buffalo, made tools and toys from it. He dressed in buffalo, lived in homes made from it, imitated and talked to it. He even died for and by the sacred buffalo. When the Indians finished with a buffalo kill, he had used it all, even its spirit. For it was the bearded
buffalo, alive and dangerous, weighing nearly a ton, snorting and short-tempered, that stood at the heart of the rituals and religion of the Plains Indians. Then the future came wearing shoes cut of cows and pants woven by machine. It found the buffalo a nuisance. The beasts took valuable grass from cattle and sheep and stamped crops, interrupted trains and knocked over telegraph poles. And so the American buffalo disappeared even faster than the way of life it engendered.
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Running down one side of the M&M is a dark wood bar, well worn with 14 stools. Its high ceiling is hung with florescent tubes. The lunch counter is on the opposite side. Between them, the floor of linoleum squares has plenty of room for tables and chairs. But there will never be any, even though folks often stand waiting for one of the stools at the counter so they can eat.
Rain was pounding on the aluminum roof of the motorhome as we sloshed into Butte. It was dark. The dim houses looked warm and comforting, but I would have felt better to see some headlights – something moving, any sign of life. Downtown streets appeared as abandoned tunnels of red brick. Finally! Light streamed into the wet tunnel from a 24-hour café casino. Its front was lit with neon from an arrow and two giant “M’s”. With a polishedchrome, sleek look, “modern” in the 1940s, it reminded me of the dining car on a cross-country train that would have the name Zephyr or Silver Streak. I found a place to park for the night by the Sheep Shearers Union Hall. We slept well. Other than in a hotel, I don’t remember ever waking up in the downtown of anywhere, but here I was in the center of Butte, Montana’s fourth largest city with 33,000 people. The sun was on everything. The empty streets looked fresh and clean from yesterday’s wash down. That’s the nice thing about a city built on a hill, which Butte is. Wherever rain hits, it keeps moving and takes everything with it. My depression, like the gloomy weather, had been erased by a gorgeous Montana morning. I headed for coffee that I knew would be fierce and hot at the silver fronted Zephyr. Actually, it’s the M&M Cigar Store, but cigars are incidental. “M&M” stands for Martin and Mosley, owners long gone. Its liquor license dates to around 1900. Byways 28
The back of the place is the casino card tables, video poker and a very old keno board that fills the rear wall. That’s about all that’s allowed in Montana. I ordered the special 2 eggs, 2 pancakes, 2 links and coffee. I was curious about the “Garbage Omelet” on the menu, but decided it was too early for surprises. The waitress called herself a 20-year veteran of the M&M – told me that they made decaf coffee here for awhile. “But no more, nobody drinks it.” As for nonfat milk: “Nobody drinks that either.” Since I had heard that salsa has replaced ketchup in national popularity, I asked her if they had any. She frowned and said, “I think there is some in the refrig.” But I never saw it. However, she did push the Tabasco Sauce my way from down the counter. Sitting next to me was a native, a doctor. Next to him was his son, a student at the University of Montana at Missoula. I primed their hometown pride with questions about Butte. It never fails. But in Butte, I discovered it brought forth a gusher. Butte owes its genesis to the telephone and the light bulb. They both came on the market about the time rich copper ores were discovered here. Between 1882 and 1890, this milehigh mining town grew to the world’s greatest copper producer and the largest inland city in the West. Miners and their families came from all parts of the world, drawn by the prospects of steady pay. Early miners were Cornish. Then the Irish came in such numbers they soon became Butte’s largest ethnic group, and still are today.
By the start of World War I, Butte had 100,000 residents with at least a dozen languages spoken. They clustered in neighborhoods called Dublin Gulch, Finntown, McQueen, Chinatown, Parrot Flat and Meaderville. The ultimate mixing pot, Butte has retained its ethnic mix. “Come visit on St Patrick’s Day and you will see which bunch has the most fun,” the doctor said. Whether due to its ethnic roots, its labor heritage or both, Butte was a rough town. Hundreds of saloons and gambling parlors stayed open around the clock to serve the three shifts of miners. All that’s gone, but its once thriving red light district retains its most famous brothel. It’s now a museum and cultural center operated by the International Sex Workers Foundation for Art, Culture and Education and open for tours – daylight hours only. Built in 1890, the Dumas Brothel operated continuously –- around the clock from 1890 to 1982, making it the longest running such enterprise in the United States. Norma Jean Almodovar runs it. She was once a Los Angeles cop and a call girl, not at the same time, but still an interesting career mix. She is now an artist who has molded and carved the “Trial of the Century Chess Set” from what she calls paper clay, which is made from volcanic ash. Each piece is a character from the O.J. Simpson murder trial, meticulously crafted, right down to eyeglasses. O.J. and Judge Ito are the kings. F. Lee Bailey, Kato Kaelin, Fay Resnick and Denise Brown are bishops.
Appropriately, the pawns include Jay Leno, Rosey Grier and talk show hosts Larry King and Geraldo Rivera. You’ve got to hand it to the people of Butte. Every town has a history that is written by real-world circumstances of an earlier time. Brothels are always part of it. As people will, they pick and choose what fills their museums – those pieces of their heritage they wish to show the world. Invariably, some of history gets swept under the rug. Butte is not like that. This was a dirt poor miners town of foreign immigrants who worked hard and played hard. Making an honest living was what was important then – not how it was made or where. Their hometown pride is based in reality, not image.
About the author: After seeing much of the world as a career naval officer, Bill Graves decided, after he retired, to take a closer look at the United States. He has been roaming the country for 20 years, much of it in a motorhome with his dog Rusty. He lives in Rancho Palos Verdes, California and is the author of On the Back Roads, Discovering Small Towns. of America. He can be reached at Roadscribe@aol.com. Byways 29
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arke County is home to 31 of Indiana’s 98 covered bridges. Parke County lies in the western part of Indiana along the Wabash River. The county was formed in 1821 out of a portion of Vigo County, and the county seat is Rockville. Parke County describes itself as the Covered Bridge Capital of the World. Indiana’s most famous covered bridge and waterfall is at Bridgeton Mill. The dam is nine feet tall and 220 feet long. The bridge itself is 261 feet long. Visitors can view Bridgeton Mill and the other 30 covered bridges via a selfguided tour. The county contains six incorporated towns and many unincorporated communities. It is divided into 13 townships which provide local services. Two U.S. routes and five state highways pass through or into the county, along with one major railroad line. Byways 32
History This area had been occupied for thousands of years by succeeding cultures of indigenous peoples. The first European settlement of the western area of
Indiana along the Wabash River was by FrenchCanadian colonists, who founded Vincennes in 1703. After the Seven Years’ War in 1763, France ceded its
territory in North America to Great Britain. In turn, after the American Revolutionary War, the Crown ceded this territory east of the Mississippi River to the new United States, including land it did not
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control, which was occupied by Native American nations. In 1811 the Shawnee chief Tecumseh rallied several tribes to try to expel the European-American settlers from the area. When General William Henry Harrison took an army from Vincennes to the Battle of Tippecanoe in late 1811 to fight with the Indians, Zachariah Cicott served as a scout. Cicott, the first white settler in the area, had traded with Indians up and down the Wabash River, starting around 1801. The trail taken by Harrison’s army, on its way to and from the battle site in Tippecanoe County, passed through the area that later became Parke County. The settlement of Armiesburg in Wabash Township was so named because Harrison and his army crossed the Raccoon Creek and camped near there on their way to the battle. Byways 34
You can learn more about Parke County’s historic covered bridges and its unique history at the Park County Historical Society Museum.
The Covered Bridge Festival The Parke County Covered Bridge Festival is held in October each year. It is Indiana’s largest festival. The 10-day festival always starts on the 2nd Friday in October. The Parke County Covered Bridge Festival – showcases the county’s 31 historic covered bridges and features authentic arts and crafts, fantastic food, and beautiful fall foliage. Each of the county’s communities has its own specialty during the festival. For more information, contact https://www.coveredbridges.com
Mansfield Covered Bridge, built 1867. Byways 35
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outh Dakota’s diverse landscape, iconic monuments, national parks and natural wonders give it the makings for the perfect road trip. Life’s about the journey and here, scenic byways take travelers through the other-worldly formations of the Badlands to world-famous monuments like Mount Rushmore. Through tribal lands seeped in rich Native American history where spiritual leaders like Sitting Bull now rest, to Custer State Park where the buffalo still roam free.
Peter Norbeck National Scenic Byway Some of the most incredible roads anywhere make up the 70-mile Peter Norbeck National Scenic Byway in the Black Hills of western South Dakota. This Byway’s hairpin curves will lead you through portions of Custer State Park, the Norbeck Wildlife Preserve, near Mount Rushmore National Memorial and the Black Elk National Wilderness Area. Mix in tunnels through fantastic granite Byways 38
pinnacles, beautiful mountain lakes, along with freeroaming wildlife and you have a never-to-beforgotten road trip. Peter Norbeck was a visionary Senator and Governor for South Dakota. He personally chose the layout of the Iron Mountain Road in the 1930s and persisted in building it, even after being told it couldn’t be done. A masterpiece of artistic engineering, this 70-mile Byway includes spiraling bridges, granite tunnels and awe-inspiring views. No wonder it was named one of the 10 Most Outstanding Byways in America. A good starting point is the town of Keystone, near the foot of Mount Rushmore. Winding southeasterly up Highway 16A, also known as Iron Mountain Road, the route leads you around impressive wooden “pigtail” bridges. Several tunnels carved through the granite mountain not only provide a transportation passage, but artistically frame the four faces on Mount Rushmore in the distance. Continuing west into Custer State Park, Highway 16 intersects with Highway 87, also known as the Needles Highway. Here the road climbs around
granite pinnacles that are a favorite with rock climbers from across the globe. Twisting and turning between the Needles and through a tight tunnel/crack in the rock, this portion of the Byway leads to picturesque Sylvan Lake. Beautiful mountain lakes and rocky terrain greet you around every turn.
Native American National and State Scenic Byway Breathtaking views of the Missouri River, diverse landscapes, and tribal history and culture are showcased on the Native American National and State Scenic Byway running north and south through central South Dakota. This scenic byway travels through the lands of the Yankton, Crow Creek, Lower Brule, Cheyenne River and Standing Rock Sioux Tribes.
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From the Chief Standing Bear Bridge on the Nebraska border to the North Dakota border near Kenel, the Byway follows a natural path cut by the Missouri River. Landscapes along the way include mixed-grass prairie and rolling hills that end in limestone cliffs that line the river in many places. An abundance of wildlife, including prairie dogs, pronghorn and deer, can be spotted as you travel – not to mention bison and elk herds that are maintained by several tribes. Stories and history of the tribes that make these lands their home are told at the Akta Lakota Museum in Chamberlain, the Cultural Heritage Center in Pierre, and the H.V. Johnston Lakota Cultural Center in Eagle Butte.
Spearfish Canyon State and National Forest Service Scenic Byway Following the curves and contours of Spearfish Creek that carved through the limestone walls of Spearfish Canyon many millennia ago, this 19mile scenic Byway framed by spruce, pine, aspen, birch and oak trees climbing the ascending cliff walls is consistently named one of the best fall drives in North America. Waterfalls, outstanding Byways 40
hikes, trout-filled pools, hidden swimming holes and popular climbing spots await travelers of this popular Black Hills route. Gradually climbing from the town of Spearfish on the northern edge of the Black Hills, this canyon is one of the gateways into the heart of an ancient mountain range. Spearfish Creek flows along the canyon bottom, acting as a natural guide for the scenic Byway that follows the creek’s contours. Prepare to be amazed by the impressive views that unveil themselves around every corner. The stunning Bridal Veil Falls (located approximately 5.8 miles south of Spearfish Canyon’s north entrance) cascades down a sheer 60-foot cliff right alongside the road, and a small wooden viewing platform makes it a definite photo stop for many travelers. Watch Little Spearfish Creek become a waterfall at Roughlock Falls State Nature Area, the most popular waterfall in the canyon, or check out Little Spearfish Falls just behind the Latchstring Inn in the tiny town of Savoy near the southern end of the Byway.
Filmed in the state in 1989, Dances with Wolves is the most famous of all movies shot in South Dakota. The film’s final winter scene was shot in Spearfish Canyon at a site north of Roughlock Falls.
Wildlife Loop State Scenic Byway Wind through pine-covered hills, rolling prairies and red-walled canyons. Experience a traffic jam caused by buffalo, meet the popular “begging burros” or spot bighorn sheep, pronghorn antelope, deer, elk, coyote, prairie dog and numerous bird species on the Wildlife Loop. Custer State Park’s 18-mile scenic Byway is a highlight of a park that has many. Make it a morning or evening drive for your best chances at catching the animals in action. Buffalo are the big stars here and you should find at least a portion of the 1,300-head herd along the Byway. They are seemingly gentle, but deceptively fast and dangerous, so stay in your vehicle when around them.
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Badlands Loop State Scenic Byway Some describe it as lunar-like, the Native Americans were the first to call it “bad lands,” or “mako sica”.
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Breathtaking rock formations, other-worldly hiking trails and 16 designated scenic overlooks on this 39mile loop guarantee more than one stop along the way.
you’ll want to pause somewhere along the route to enjoy the view. There are scenic overlooks that provide many outstanding photo opportunities. Wildlife here includes pronghorn antelope, mule deer, prairie dogs and numerous birds. Buffalo can most often be found along the Sage Creek Rim Road, a gravel spur off the western end of the Badlands Loop Road. For those wanting to know more about the landscape and life here, the Ben Reifel Visitor Center is located at the southeastern tip of the loop, next to Cedar Pass Lodge. Ranger-guided programs and hikes are offered. It would take about one hour to drive the 39-mile loop of South Dakota Highway 240 between the towns of Cactus Flat and Wall without stopping, but almost no one does that. Breathtaking rock formations and native grasslands filled with numerous species of plants and animals guarantee
For more on enjoying South Dakota’s Scenic Byways, visit: https://www.travelsouthdakota.com
Bighorn sheep enjoy the expansive view of Badlands National Park. Photo courtesy Drew Darby on Unsplash.
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T
he historic Danish village of Solvang offers the best of California’s Santa Ynez Valley and Santa Barbara wine country. Stroll through the village and admire the old-world European architecture, plus find the perfect souvenir at a variety of charming boutiques and shops. Indulge in authentic Danish pastries at the world-famous bakeries. Solvang was founded in 1911 on almost 9,000 acres of the Rancho San Carlos de Jonata Mexican land grant, by a group of Danes who traveled west to establish a Danish community far from the midwestern winters. Today, Solvang boasts authentic architecture, thatched roofs, old-world craftsmanship and traditional windmills. Mission Santa Inés, one of the California missions and a National Historic Landmark, is located near the center of the town. Solvang was named by Sunset magazine as one of the “10 Most Beautiful Small Towns in the Western United States”. Solvang, with a population of 5,245, is 35 miles from Byways 44
the south facing beaches of Santa Barbara, and 32 miles from the west facing beach at Vandenberg Air Force Base. It is 125 miles up the coast from Los Angeles and 300 miles south of San Francisco.
in the Saturday Evening Post, that many first discovered the town. Sights include the Danish windmills, the statues of Hans Christian Andersen and The Little Mermaid replica, the half-timbered houses, the Danish rural church, the Round Tower as well as Danish music and folk dancing. Popular activities include museums, historic walking tours, a lavender farm, vineyards Solvang has become a major tourist attraction with over one million visitors per year.
Visitors were initially attracted to Solvang by the visit of Denmark’s Prince Frederik in 1939. But it was in 1947, following a feature article
and wineries, living history farmstead, art galleries, live music, scenic drives, golf and more. Try tasty Danish pastries and aebleskiver at one of five authentic bakeries. Love boutique shopping? Solvang offers more than 150 one-of-a-kind shops where you can discover trendy styles and impeccable service.
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Check out the best of Solvang’s yearly events including Solvang (Grape) Stomp (October), Danish Days (September) and Julefest (December). Solvang provides free parking for cars, dayparking for RVs and a specially designated free motorcoach parking area in the center of the village—within easy walking distance of all major attractions, shopping, dining and activities. For more information, visit: https://www.solvangusa.com t
Food and wine lovers will find wineries and beautiful vineyards to explore near Solvang, plus plenty of dining options including California farm-to-table cuisine. Sample wine & beer at 20 downtown tasting rooms offering the products of over 125 area vineyards.
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Byways is published bi-monthly by Byways, Inc. and distributed electronically throughout North America. Byways is emailed to more than 4000 tour operators / Travel Trade. Subscriptions are complimentary. An iPad & iPhone version is available for consumers in iTunes in the App Store. An Android browser version is available at www.issuu.com/byways. Byways’ distribution includes motorcoach companies, tour operators, selected travel agents,
bank travel managers, school band and athletic planners, meeting planners and the travel trade. For advertising rates, editorial deadlines, or to place advertising insertions, contact: Byways Magazine at 502-785-4875. ŠCopyright 2020 by Byways, Inc. All rights reserved. No portion of this publication may be duplicated in any form without express written permission of the publisher.
Editor & Publisher Stephen M. Kirchner
Advertising 502-785-4875 Internet
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