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By Stephen Kirchner, Editor & Publisher
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elcome to Byways annual Mountains & Valleys issue.
We begin in the Hudson Valley of New York State. The star attraction is the natural beauty of the Hudson River and stunning Catskill views. Dutchess County is home to an abundance of outdoor activities and open spaces. A visit to the Walkway Over the Hudson is a must. The New York State Historic Park is the world’s longest elevated pedestrian bridge. Also here is Hyde Park, the estate of Franklin D. Roosevelt and his wife, Eleanor. FDR was the only President elected to four terms. National Park Rangers provide guided tours of the Roosevelt home. Spanning 3,000 square miles in southwestern Pennsylvania, the Laurel Valley is a beautiful fourseason destination, and offers spectacular natural scenery, outstanding outdoor recreation, historic sites and attractions, family activities, and world-class resorts. Next, take a walk in Joe Biden’s Brandywine Valley. Since age 10, President Joe Biden has called Wilmington and the Brandywine Valley home. Visit the Wilmington Riverfront, a popular dining and entertainment district. The Riverwalk along the Christina River provides an easy connection to the restaurants, shops, recreational pursuits, live music, and performing arts venues in the area. Follow the Riverwalk east to the Joseph R. Biden Railroad Station. Biden has been a regular here, commuting to Washington, D.C. during his tenure in the U.S. Senate. There are many good restaurants in the area. One of the best is Bardea Food & Drink, a James Beard semifinalist. There are many attractions in the region, including Winterthur Museum, Garden and Library, Hagley Byways 4
Museum and Library, Mt. Cuba Center, the Delaware Art Museum, and Brandywine Creek State Park. On the border of Utah and Arizona, the spectacular scenery of Monument Valley is captivating year round. They aren’t mountains, or canyons, or even just big rocks, but something else. They are monuments. The valley lies within the territory of the Navajo Nation Reservation and is accessible from U.S. Highway 163. When you see the photos, you will probably recognize Monument Valley. It has been featured in many forms of media since the 1930s. Director John Ford used the location for a number of his best-known films and thus, in the words of critic Keith Phipps, “its five square miles have defined what decades of moviegoers think of when they imagine the American West”. California’s Olympic Village is 5 miles from Lake Tahoe in the High Sierras. It is the smallest venue to to ever host the Olympic Winter Games, which it did at Squaw Valley in 1960. An athlete from Squaw Valley has competed in every Winter Olympics since. Because of this, Squaw Valley has taken the moniker “Official Supplier of skiers to the U.S. Ski Team”. I have a personal attachment to Squaw Valley, having been a ski bum there after discharge from the Army. In What’s Happening, we often associate Branson, Missouri with world-class live entertainment shows. But there is much more to Branson. It offers thrilling attractions around every corner along with genuine Ozark hospitality. We take a look at its Top 10 attractions, as selected by the folks in Branson. We hope you enjoy this issue of Byways.
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Volume 38, Issue No. 2 2021 On the over. New York’s Backyard, the Hudson Valley. Take to the skies in an open-air biplane ride at the Old Rhinebeck Aerodrome. Photo courtesy Dutchess Tourism. For more on Mountains & Valleys, turn to page 8.
Features New York’s Backyard, the Hudson Valley.............................................................................................. 8 Pennsylvania’s Laurel Highlands......................................................................................................... 16 Walk in the Footsteps of Joe Biden’s Brandywine Valley .................................................................... 24 Monument Valley ................................................................................................................................. 32 California’s Olympic Village ................................................................................................................. 40
Departments Byways Instant Connect ........................................................................................................................ 3 Byways Preview .................................................................................................................................... 4 Traveling the Highways & Byways with Bill Graves............................................................................. 30 Advertiser/Sponsored Content Index .................................................................................................. 51
What’s Happening Branson’s Top 10 Attractions ............................................................................................................... 46
Coming in Future Issues Future issues of Byways will feature . . .Ocean Views, Rivers & Lakes, Great American Roads and more . . .
Next Up: Ocean Views The Battle of Yorktown. The final land battle of the American Revolutionary War, secured America’s future. Photo courtesy JamestownYorktown Foundation.
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ew Yorker City dwellers know— the ideal getaway is 90 minutes north of the Big Apple in the scenic Hudson Valley— and specifically, Dutchess County. So close, it is kind of like discovering New York’s Backyard.
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Family fun includes Splashdown Beach’s outdoor waterpark with a mountain vista backdrop and any one of four drive-in movie theaters, like Four Brothers Drive-In with a camp site, playground, arcade, putt-putt, and food delivery car service.
The star attraction is the natural beauty of the Hudson River and stunning Catskill Mountains views. Dutchess County is home to an abundance of outdoor activities and plenty of wide-open spaces. Visitors can relish the fresh air on biking and hiking trails including the Appalachian Trail.
A visit to the Walkway Over the Hudson is a must.
Getting out on the Hudson River water is ideal in a kayak or on paddleboard; or take a boat out to Bannerman Island to see the castle ruins. As you travel through Dutchess enjoy a wealth of amazing views. Dover Stone Church is an easy hike to its cave and waterfall. Stroll the gardens of Innisfree, ramble the trails at Poet’s Walk or hike to the fabulous fire tower views at Ferncliff Forest. Byways 10
The New York State Historic Park is the world’s longest elevated pedestrian bridge. Towering 65m high and over 2km across, the bridge connects to 32km of trails, has a glassenclosed elevator, bike rentals, visitor centers, and free parking, not to mention… unprecedented views! And for the ultimate panorama, take to the skies in an open-air biplane ride at the Old Rhinebeck Aerodrome. They host weekend airshows; and the museum is an amazing collection of vintage airplanes, cars, and motorcycles. Culinary enthusiasts adore Dutchess with its family-owned farms making farm-to-table dining a way of life in the
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Hudson Valley. At the helm is The Culinary Institute of America, known as the “CIA”. The world’s
premier culinary college trains students from all over the world. The student-staffed restaurants offer fine dining for Italian, modern-French or American cuisine. And a student-guided tour is the best for a behind-the-scenes look of the CIA. Local farms offer the chance for pick-yourown, and markets are plentiful with freshly harvested fruits and vegetables and locally made treasures. Savor the flavors of the Dutchess Craft Beverage Trail that journeys through the birthplace of American wine making. Wineries, artisanal breweries, distilleries and
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cideries offer tours and tastings, each with their unique views of the splendid countryside. Dutchess County’s most iconic figures were Franklin D. Roosevelt and his wife, Eleanor. Born in Hyde Park, FDR was the only President of the United States elected to four terms. Roosevelt served as a New York State Senator, and Assistant Secretary of the Navy under Woodrow Wilson. Before becoming the Governor of New York and then president, FDR was paralyzed by polio at the age of 39. Roosevelt guided the country out of the Great Depression and through WWII. He is credited for creating and naming The United Nations and cofounded the World Bank. Guided tours of the Roosevelt home where the Roosevelts hosted King George VI and Queen Elizabeth in 1939, and Winston Churchill on numerous occasions are conducted by National Park Rangers.
Also located on the estate called Springwood is the FDR Presidential Library and Museum, America’s first presidential library and with an office making it the only one used by a sitting president. The interactive state-of-the-art museum displays the FDR administration and the Roosevelt family’s personal collection of artifacts and documents as part of The National Archives.
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Nearby, the Eleanor Roosevelt National Historic Site is the only one dedicated to a first lady. Eleanor was a civil rights and human rights activist, and prolific world-traveler. After FDR’s death, she served as an ambassador to the United Nations where she co-authored The Universal Declaration of Human Rights. Leave time to explore quaint historic villages like Beacon and Rhinebeck for boutique shopping, art galleries and a great café scene. World-class art venues like Dia Beacon showcase large scale works by renowned artists. Thousands of square feet of natural sky light make a surprising “daylight” museum. For live summer entertainment, take in a performance of cabaret, theater, opera, film, or dance at Bard’s SummerScape Festival at The Fisher Center. Overnight choices in Dutchess offer everything from cozy bed ‘n breakfasts and historic inns to Byways 14
mid-range full-service hotels and luxury boutique resorts. While traveling in Dutchess County, visitors can be assured that businesses and attractions throughout the county practice current CDC and New York State guidelines to ensure the safety of their employees and visitors, alike. Visit DutchessTourism.com for travel ideas, suggested itineraries, maps, and lodging in New York’s Backyard. t
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owering mountain ridges, rushing rivers, rolling farmlands, and charming towns await you along your road trip through Pennsylvania’s Laurel Highlands. Spanning 3,000 square miles in southwestern Pennsylvania, the beautiful four-season destination offers spectacular natural scenery, outstanding outdoor recreation, historic sites and attractions, family activities, and world-class resorts. Notable destinations within the region include four architectural masterpieces by Frank Lloyd Wright – Fallingwater®, Kentuck Knob, Mäntylä, and Duncan House – as well as Nemacolin Woodlands Resort, Seven Springs Mountain Resort, Flight 93 National Memorial, Idlewild and Soak Zone, whitewater rafting in Ohiopyle State Park, and more. Located within 200 miles of the major metropolitan areas of Pittsburgh, Baltimore, Cleveland, and Byways 18
Washington D.C., the Laurel Highlands can be easily accessed from exits 67, 75, 91, and 110 of the Pennsylvania Turnpike.
Pennsylvania Turnpike •Ligonier: Make a stop to take a picture of the bandstand on the Ligonier Diamond surrounded by the color-changing leaves. •Powdermill Nature Reserve: An excellent stop for families interested in the natural world. They offer educational programming and exhibits as well as more than 2,200 acres of wildlife. •Ohiopyle State Park: The Youghiogheny River, the busiest section of whitewater east of the Mississippi, runs through the park’s 20,500 scenic acres. With waterfalls, vistas, nature areas and over 80 miles of trails, Ohiopyle is the place to be for year-round adventure. In central Ohiopyle, you’ll find the Falls Area Visitors Center, with educational displays and
an expansive view down the river. Central Ohiopyle, a charming town, offers several delicious dining options and shops full of unique gifts and goods.
H. Rogers Park and peruse the memorabilia at the Latrobe Area Historical Society and Greater LatrobeLaurel Valley Chamber of Commerce.
•Fallingwater®: Frank Lloyd Wright’s iconic masterpiece is even more breathtaking and impressive when framed by the colorful fall leaves.
•Four Seasons Brewing Company: Make a pit stop on your way back to Route 30 for a locally-crafted and nationally-awarded brew. Be sure to pick up a Laurel Highlands Pour Tour passport. This handydandy passport is a tasty way to savor the flavors of the Laurel Highlands.
•Kentuck Knob: One of four Frank Lloyd Wright homes in the Laurel Highlands, Kentuck Knob sits on a mountain at 2,000 feet above sea level. Kentuck Knob is also home to a fantastic sculpture garden and a lookout with an amazing view.
The Lincoln Highway: Route 30 from Latrobe to Stoystown •Explore Fred Rogers’ hometown of Latrobe: Take a short detour off Route 30 and into downtown Latrobe, the real-life hometown neighborhood of Fred Rogers! Explore the Latrobe Art Center, founded by his younger sister, Laney. Take a selfie with the life-size bronze sculpture of Fred at James
•Lincoln Highway Experience: Learn about the history of coast-to-coast transportation on Route 30 through cool exhibits at the Lincoln Highway Experience and enjoy a slice of pie at Serro’s Diner. The 200-mile Lincoln Highway Heritage Corridor is a scenic route dotted with charming small towns, unique shops, five state parks, two national parks, and dips and turns reminiscent of days gone by. •Ligonier: Stop for a delicious meal at one of the many fantastic restaurants, a scoop of ice cream at
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the famous Ligonier Creamery or a pick-me-up from Abigail’s Coffeehouse. After you’re full and energized, take a stroll around the Diamond and spend some time exploring the unique boutiques and antique shops. •Continue on Route 30 and take the optional scenic detour to Linn Run State Park. This drive will take you on the section of Route 381 that winds through Rector and is one of the most scenic drives in all of the Laurel Highlands. Wind down country roads through private estates and farmlands, admire the tree-lined split rail fences and expansive views of the rolling Pennsylvania hills. At Linn Run, be sure to make a stop for the short hike to Adams Falls. You can even drive past the park, through Forbes State Forest to Laurel Summit State Park, where the pavement becomes a dusty gravel road. There you’ll find the trailhead for the three-mile hike to
Wolf Rocks Overlook, another incredible vista for leaf-peeping, as well as the short walk to Spruce Flats Bog. Just a little drive further will take you to Beam Rocks Overlook, a short half-mile hike that
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leads to an equally impressive view. •Laughlintown: Enjoy a scrumptious treat from The Pie Shoppe. •Jennerstown: Stop at the Coal Miner’s Café for a delicious meal to refuel you for your road trip. •Flight 93 National Memorial: Pay homage and remember the brave passengers of Flight 93 who gave their lives on September 11, 2001.
The National Road – Route 40 from Brownsville to Addison •The National Road: Modern-day U.S. Route 40 was the first federally funded highway in the U.S. and set a precedent for a national highway system. Beginning in Cumberland, Maryland, the route passes through the Cumberland Narrows – once one of only a few navigable routes across the Appalachian Mountain Range – before continuing northwest into Pennsylvania, across the Allegheny Mountains and into the Ohio River Valley. •Christian W. Klay Winery: The highest mountaintop vineyard east of the Rockies, Christian W. Klay Byways 22
Winery offers a wonderful view in addition to their impressive wine collection. For those who prefer liquor, you can also find Ridge Runner Distillery at the winery. We recommend trying their unique moonshine. Don’t forget to get stickers for your Pour Tour passport! •Summit Inn Resort: Relax during your stay on the grand veranda and look out over the valley from Chestnut Ridge.
•Fort Necessity National Battlefield: Some believe that George Washington’s trials and tribulations in Pennsylvania’s Laurel Highlands helped him grow into a legendary military leader and eventually the first President of the United States of America. At this legendary site, you will learn about his first and only military defeat. Learn more about his time in the Laurel Highlands here.
restaurant with an impressive view to match the impeccable cuisine. Be sure to stop in Old General Store and Country Pie Shoppe for a sweet treat to enjoy on your road trip. Take a detour on County Line Road and make the drive to Seven Springs Mountain Resort, for a mountain of fun including Laurel Ridgeline Zipline Tours, golf, fishing, dining, spa, skiing, snow tubing, and more.
Glades Pike – Route 31 from West Newton to Somerset
•Kooser State Park: With one-and-a-half mile of walking trails, Kooser Lake and Kooser Run make an excellent spot for fishing and leaf-peeping
•Greendance: The Winery at Sand Hill is a picturesque winery that sits just a few miles off Route 31 in Mount Pleasant. The grounds are ablaze in color in the fall season, ideal for a tasting of their fantastic selection of fruit and grape wines in the garden. Save room for dessert and get your Pour Tour passport sticker! You won’t want to miss their signature berry pies and cakes.
•Glades Pike Winery: Take in the view of the beautiful fall foliage from the deck or gazebo with a glass (or bottle) of wine. And yet another sticker for your Pour Tour passport! https://www.golaurelhighlands.com
•Donegal: Here you’ll find Out of the Fire Café, a Byways 23
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ince age 10, President Joe Biden has called Wilmington and the Brandywine Valley home, and #46 has left quite a footprint on the First State. Here are some of the President’s favorite local spots and locations that mark important milestones in his career. The University of Delaware, in Newark, is President Biden’s alma mater. He has often been spotted at University of Delaware football games. Walk the lovely campus, and dine at one of the dozen or so restaurants on Newark’s Main Street. From the University, hop on I-95 North to The Wilmington Riverfront. This dining and entertainment district was center stage for much of the Democratic National Convention and victory celebration, held at the Chase Center on the Riverfront. There is so much to do here, consider spending the night. Each of the Riverfront’s three new hotels offers views of the Christina River. The Riverwalk provides an easy connection to the restaurants, shops, recreational pursuits, live music, and performing arts venues in the area. Byways 26
Follow the Riverwalk east to the Joseph R. Biden Railroad Station. Biden has been a regular at this Amtrak station for years, commuting between the First State and Washington, D.C. during his tenure in the U.S. Senate. Amtrak is an easy way to reach Wilmington from all major cities along the East Coast. A short walk from the Amtrak Station is The Queen, on Market Street in downtown Wilmington. This historic live music venue became the office of the President-Elect and is where the Biden-Harris team planned for the transition after the election results were announced. Next, stroll down Market Street for a bite to eat. There are many good restaurants here. One of the best is Bardea Food & Drink, a James Beard semifinalist. President Biden took his wife, Jill, here for her birthday. Up the street from Bardea is the Hotel du Pont. Opened in 1913, it has played host to presidents, celebrities, and royalty for more than a century. It has been the location of many Biden speeches. The hotel is also home to Le Cavalier at the Green Room, helmed by award-winning chef Tyler Akin.
On the other side of the city, on Dupont Street, is Piccolina Toscana. According to chef-owner Dan Butler, Biden’s favorite dishes here are the capellini al pomodoro and the penne al pomodoro. When they need a fried chicken fix, the Bidens (and many other Wilmingtonians) turn to Walt’s Flavor Crisp Chicken Express. It is across Route 52 from Toscana, on Lincoln Street. The recipe is closely guarded. The dining establishment with perhaps the most well-known ties to President Biden is Capriotti’s. Its original location is not far from Walt’s on Union Street. Biden famously visited the Washington, D.C. outpost (now closed) of this locally grown sandwich chain in 2013, stating, “This is gonna settle once and for all, the best sandwich in America is out of Wilmington, Delaware.” Capriotti’s most famous concoction is The Bobbie: it’s Thanksgiving on a sub roll. Leave the city limits and head out to the Brandywine Valley to The Inn at Montchanin. Listed on the National Historic Register, this romantic inn also features a spa and a gourmet restaurant, Krazy Kat’s.
This is where Vice President Kamala Harris’s family stayed during the election. After checking out the Inn, take the short drive into the tony enclave Greenville, home to numerous shops and restaurants the Biden’s frequent including Janssen’s Market, Brew HaHa!, Whimsy, Pizza by Elizabeths, and Houpette.
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After checking out Greenville, take Route 52 a few miles west to the historic hamlet of Centreville and Buckley’s Tavern. The Bidens have been known to stop in from time to time. It is also the hub of social life in the area. Cozy up to the bar for a pint of beer and some mushroom soup then catch up on the local chatter. On 202 North in North Wilmington, stop by Peter Kate, one of Jill Biden’s go-to places for accessories and clothing. When she gave her DNC speech, she was wearing a necklace from Peter Kate. The next stop is Claymont Steak Shop on Route 202 South. While still in the Senate, Biden often made time to stop by this eatery for a bite to eat and a chance to greet old friends. The original Claymont steak shop is on Philadelphia Pike in the town of Claymont, where Biden grew up. Next door is The Charcoal Pit. Biden is a longtime fan of its burgers and shakes, Byways 28
named after local high schools. When President Barack Obama came to Wilmington in 2014, the two made a stop here. Last on the Biden grand tour is Wilmington Brew Works, back in the city limits. Its “Rail Car One,” a Double Delaware IPA triple dry hopped with heaps of Mosaic, Citra and Sultana Hops, draws its inspiration from the President’s love of Amtrak travel. In addition to all things Biden, there are many other attractions to take in including Winterthur Museum, Garden and Library, Hagley Museum and Library, Mt. Cuba Center, the Delaware Art Museum, and Brandywine Creek State Park. The region’s awardwinning restaurants range from fine dining to Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives-type foodie finds.
in the heart of the MidAtlantic region, less than a two-hour drive from both New York City and Washington. Steeped in American history and the legacy of the famed du Pont family, Greater Wilmington is a destination marked by sharp contrasts – town and garden, past and present, historic and hip. It is known for its renowned gardens, world-class museums, colonial towns, outdoor adventure, festivals and a growing craft beer and restaurant scene.
About the Region
VisitWilmingtonDE.com.
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Traveling the Highways & Byways with Bill Graves Nipton, California I nterstate 15 has one end in San Diego. The other end butts up against Canada in Montana at Sweet Grass, which is near the Milk River in Alberta.
The most heavily traveled piece of it runs between Los Angeles and Las Vegas. (I might, however, get an argument about that around Salt Lake City.) Beginning at noon on any given Friday until sometime Sunday, there are enough people on this 230-mile stretch of interstate to populate a city. In fact, that population is the target audience of two FM radio stations, with linked signals, that blanket this piece of I-15 around the clock. They play Las Vegas-image music – lots of Sinatra, Liberace and Wayne Newton – and run constant updates on weather and road conditions. Their sponsors are primarily the hotel/casinos in the world’s most famous desert oasis, offering everything except moderation. It’s Friday. And I’m out here surrounded by them. Thirty miles east of Baker, I crested the Summit at 4,125 feet – an uphill workout for the motorhome, but with its promise of a sweet, downside reward. Short of Nevada by ten miles, I turned east on Highway 164. It runs to Cottonwood Cove on Lake Mohave, a distance of 45 miles. But I’m not going that far. Rolling on a rust-colored road of volcanic cinder, I was looking down into a thunder-of-hooves valley bracketed by mountains on all sides. Except for the parched clay of Ivanpah Dry Lake, the valley was green with desert brush, darkened by an occasional cloud shadow that moved slowly across it. This road is the northern boundary of a newer addition to our National Park Byways 30
Service, the Mojave National Preserve. Created in 1994, it differs from a national park in only that hunting is allowed. With 1.6 million acres, it ranks third in size in the Lower 48 after Death Valley and Yellowstone. I dropped 2,000 feet to the valley floor, crossed over the tracks of the Union Pacific Railroad and I was instantly in Nipton, population 28. A sign announced a “World Class Bar-B-Q” at the Cafe. Another said “Lotto Jackpot Now 19 Million”. The word “million” was fixed in place, but the numerals were removable for daily, even hourly, updating. Being so close to Nevada, a state that ironically has no state lottery, Nevadians used to flock here for California Lotto tickets. A Lotto store is now right at the border on I-15, so it gets the ticket traffic. “People still come here for tickets, because they don’t have to stand in line,” Jerry Freeman told me. Jerry, a 69 year-old geologist, owns Nipton. He bought it in 1985. With the help of his brother Mike and some friends, all residents, it is slowly coming
up some shade before moving on. From Santa Paula, California, Ben is a partner in a law firm and Lani teaches first grade. Lina said that her kids call her “a biker babe,” because Ben picks her up at school occasionally with the motorcycle. “This is an escape. Like any other recreation that you really get into, it’s a radical shift from the norm,” Ben said. “I suit up in motorcycle gear, shed the coat and tie and take on a whole new persona.” “Lots of leather vests, bandanas, and cigars,” I said. “You bet. Most of these guys never smoke a cigar otherwise.” into the last century. Jerry explains progress here as “a snowball rolling down hill, slowly gathering what it needs to get bigger”. Jerry used to live in Los Angeles. But he detests crowds; that’s why he is here. These days he’s usually behind the counter at the general store, or Trading Post, as they call it. Mike, a retired lawyer from Los Angeles, runs the Cantina or café. He opens late in the afternoon. The rest of “downtown” Nipton is a five-room, twobath hotel; plus three hot tubs and some “cabins” that are bottom-half wood and top-half canvas. Behind the hotel is an RV Park with five hookup sites. The rooms in the Hotel Nipton open onto a rustic sitting room. It was furnished in the 1920s. And “if it works, why change it,” has been the owner’s attitude since then. Room number three is named for Clara Bow. The silent-film star stayed in it often. Her husband, movie-cowboy Rex Bell, had a ranch 16 miles from here. (So I am wondering why she stayed here if he had a ranch there, but nobody here knew. And I think if they knew, they would relish in telling it.) This upcoming weekend happens to be the annual Harley-Davidson rally in Laughlin, Nevada, which is about 70 miles from here. Motorcyclists from all over California and elsewhere streamed by during my three-day stay. Most of them stopped at the Trading Post. One rider told me that 85,000 bikers would be at the rally. Ben and Lani Schuck hung around for awhile to soak
Jerry told me that train crews were almost daily customers. Low priority trains pull off on the siding in front of his store to let other trains pass. “The guys leave the engine running, and come in to cool off, get something to drink.” Jerry paused to take a phone reservation for a room in the hotel. He asked the caller, “Do you like trains or not?” I asked him later, “Do you always warn potential guests that the trains run by here all night?” “Hardly!” Jerry laughed. “They know about the trains. In fact, that’s why most of them come. If they say they really like trains then I give them the front room.” Update: Following Jerry Freeman’s passing, Nipton was sold 3 years ago to a cannabis company that bought it for $5 million. They planned to turn it into a cannabis retreat. But those plans never worked out, and the town is now back on the market for $2.75 million. This includes all its buildings and the 80 acres they sit on. About the author: After seeing much of the world as a career naval officer, Bill Graves decided, after he retired, to take a closer look at the United States. He has been roaming the country for 20 years, much of it in a motorhome with his dog Rusty. He lives in Rancho Palos Verdes, California and is the author of On the Back Roads, Discovering Small Towns of America. He can be reached at Roadscribe@aol.com. Byways 31
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pread across the border of Utah and Arizona, the spectacular scenery of Monument Valley is captivating year round. The giant sandstone formations towering over the desert floor are a unique kind of structure you don’t see every day. They aren’t mountains, or canyons, or even just big rocks, but something else. They are monuments. Some have been given descriptive names such as Mittens, Elephant Butte, Totem Pole, and North Window. Monument Valley is a region of the Colorado Plateau characterized by a cluster of vast sandstone buttes, the largest reaching 1,000 ft above the valley floor. It is located on the Arizona–Utah state line. The Colorado Plateau covers 130,000 square miles within northwestern New Mexico, southeastern Utah, and northern Arizona. Monument Valley is one of the truly iconic places of the United States. The setting for hundreds of Western movies, its unique sandstone formations are instantly recognizable the world over. Iron oxide in the weathered siltstone gives the valley its red color. Byways 34
It is near the Four Corners. The valley lies within the territory of the Navajo Nation Reservation and is accessible from U.S. Highway 163. When you see the photos, you will probably recognize Monument Valley. It has been featured in many forms of media since the 1930s. Director John Ford used the location for a number of his best-known films and thus, in the words of critic Keith Phipps, “its five square miles have defined what decades of moviegoers think of when they imagine the American West”. In addition to becoming one of the most iconic images of the West, it has become a popular tourist destination. It’s not always referred to by name in the movies, but most visitors will surely recognize it. Forrest Gump and his band of running followers jogged along U.S. Route 163 right through Monument Valley in 1994. Fans of the movie often visit this stretch of the highway to recreate the scene or just take a few photos.
Monument Valley Tourism Monument Valley is officially a large area that includes much of the area surrounding Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park, a Navajo Nation equivalent to a national park. Oljato, for example, is also within the area designated as Monument Valley. Most of the scenic locations are found within the Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park. At the edge of the valley, there is a visitor center, a small convenience store and the Haskenneini Restaurant. The Valley Drive is a dirt road through Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park on the Arizona side of the valley. From the visitor center, you see the worldfamous panorama of the Mitten Buttes and Merrick Butte. You can also purchase guided tours from Navajo tour operators, who take you down into the valley in Jeeps for a narrated cruise through these mythical formations.
During the summer months, the visitor center features Haskenneini Restaurant, which specializes in
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both native Navajo and American cuisines, and a film/snack/souvenir shop. There are year-round restroom facilities. One mile before the center, numerous Navajo vendors sell arts, crafts, native food, and souvenirs at roadside stands. Visitors pay an access fee and drive through the park on a 17-mile dirt road (a 2-3 hour trip). Parts of Monument Valley, such as Mystery Valley, Ear pf the Wind and Hunts Mesa, are accessible only by guided tour. There are no shortage of local Navajo guides available to take you on tours of the valley. Spare your own vehicle and join a guide for a narrated tour by jeep or 4×4. Visitors must stay on the valley road unless accompanied by a Navajo guide. The sole exception is the Wildcat Trail, a self-guided 3.1 mile hiking trail along the the West Mitten Butte. The park is open from 6:00am to 8:30pm in the summer (May – September) and from 8:00am to 4:30pm in the winter (October – April).
Monument Valley experiences a desert climate with cold winters and hot summers. While the summers may be hot, the heat is tempered by the region’s high altitude. Although the valley experiences an average of 54 days above 90 °F annually, summer highs rarely exceed 100 °F. Summer nights are comfortably cool, and temperatures drop quickly after sunset. Winters are cold, but daytime highs are usually above freezing. All areas on the Navajo Nation are closed to nonNavajos unless you have a valid pass or permit issued by the Navajo Parks and Recreation Department or other delegated tribal authority. Failure to have a permit is considered trespassing on a Federal Indian Reservation. Important Note: Navajo Parks have paused operations due to Covid19. Check before visiting for latest updates. https://navajonationparks.org/tribal-parks/ monument-valley/ https://www.utahscanyoncountry.com Byways 37
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alifornia’s Olympic Valley is located in Placer County, northwest of Tahoe City along California State Highway 89 on the banks of the Truckee River near Lake Tahoe. It is home to Squaw Valley Ski Resort, the host site of the 1960 Winter Olympics. Olympic Valley is the smallest resort area to ever host the Olympic Winter Games. In 2012, Squaw Valley and Alpine Meadows were combined to offer joint access to 6,200 skiable acres, 43 lifts and over 270 trails. The resort attracts approximately 600,000 skiers a year. Squaw Valley is one of the largest ski areas in the United States, and is the second-largest ski area at Lake Tahoe after Heavenly. The resort spans two mountains, with stunning views of Lake Tahoe and the Sierra Nevada. Skiers and riders of all ability levels are welcomed by over 65 Byways 42
percent beginner and intermediate terrain, while legendary steeps, towering cliffs and heart-pumping chutes continue to be ground zero for boundarybreaking skiing and riding. The resort features slope side lodging at The Village at Squaw Valley, which bustles year-round with nonstop events and over 50 bars, restaurants, and boutiques. With an annual average of 450 inches of snowfall and 300 sunny California days, Squaw Valley Alpine Meadows is known as the Spring Skiing Capital™ and provides the longest ski and snowboard season in Lake Tahoe. Its ski season often lasts until the end of May.
History The town of Claraville, formerly located at the mouth of Squaw Valley, was once among the biggest mining operations in the Lake Tahoe region. The Squaw Valley Mining boom was short lived and by 1863–64 the valley had lost almost all of its
inhabitants to the Comstock lode in Virginia City. Wayne Poulsen, a former star skier from the University of Nevada, had acquired 2,000 acres in Squaw Valley from the Southern Pacific Railroad. Poulsen met Alex Cushing, a Harvard Universitytrained lawyer, in 1946 while Cushing was vacationing at Sugar Bowl Ski Resort. During his vacation, Cushing toured Squaw Valley at Poulsen's invitation and decided to invest in building a ski resort there.
Olympic Valley
Unlike Poulsen, Cushing had the political connections and access to the capital necessary to create a ski resort. In June 1948, the two founded the Squaw Valley Development Company. Squaw Valley Ski Resort opened on Thanksgiving Day 1949. The resort was constructed with $400,000 raised by Cushing, including $150,000 of his own money. The creation of the Squaw Valley Development Corporation and Squaw Valley Ski Resort mark the modern era of Squaw Valley.
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In 1954, Cushing began lobbying the International Olympic Committee to host the 1960 Olympic Winter games after he saw an article in the San Francisco Chronicle that detailed Reno, Nevada’s bid to host the games. Innsbruck, Austria was Squaw Valley’s biggest competitor in the running for the 1960 Winter Games, and in 1956 Squaw Valley won the right to host the games by a vote of 32-30 on the second ballot.
The Winter Olympics In anticipation of the Olympics, the official name was changed to Olympic Valley in 1960. At the time, Squaw Valley was an undeveloped resort. The infrastructure and all of the venues were built at a cost of $80 million between 1956 and 1960. The layout was designed to be intimate, allowing spectators and competitors to reach most of the venues on foot. The 1960 Winter Olympics were the first Winter Olympics to be televised live and attracted millions of viewers. One of the unforgettable highlights was the USA-Russia Ice Hockey Olympic Medal game won by the USA 3-2. Byways 44
In 2010, Squaw Valley Ski Resort was acquired by KSL Capital Partners, terming what they called a “renaissance” for Olympic Valley. With its acquisition, KSL announced $50 million in improvements to Squaw Valley. The total amount was increased to $70 million when Squaw Valley and Alpine Meadows merged in October 2011.
Squaw Valley Alpine Meadows has announced its commitment to change the resort name, removing the word “squaw” which is widely considered offensive. The resort has begun work on determining a new name.
Skiing and Racing Culture
https://blog.squawalpine.com
Skiing and racing culture have been important to Squaw Valley since before it hosted the 1960 Winter Games. An athlete from Squaw Valley has competed in every Winter Olympics since 1964, when Jimmie Heuga competed in the IX Olympic Winter Games. Because of this, Squaw Valley has taken the moniker “Official Supplier of skiers to the US Ski Team”.
For more information, visit:
https://www.visitplacer.com
USA Hockey Team celebrates its 3-2 victory tover Russia at the 1960 Winter Olympics.
To learn more about the 1960 Winter Olympics you can take an Aerial Tram ride to see memorabilia at the free Olympic museum—and the resort often holds elite competitions throughout the season. It’s not uncommon to see past and future Olympians training on the mountain. Squaw Alpine has also set itself apart with a focus on sustainability. In the near future, the resort plans to run 100 percent on renewable energy sources, making it the first major ski mountain in the U.S. to do so.
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B
ranson, Missouri is one of America’s favorite vacation destinations, but many associate Branson with world-class live entertainment shows. But there is much more to Branson, which makes it popular with not only group tours, but families as well. Branson offers thrilling attractions around every corner along with genuine Ozark hospitality. So here is a list of the Top10 attractions, as selected by, well, the folks in Branson.
1. Silver Dollar City Silver Dollar City, one of America’s great theme parks, is an 1880s themed experience that puts the words “family” and “fun” at the heart of everything they do. Experience Time Traveler, the only rollercoaster of its kind, that goes speeds up to 50 mph while you Byways 46
2. Aquarium at the Boardwalk Aquarium at the Boardwalk is one of the newest things to do in Branson and is unlike any other aquarium you’ve visited. Some features that visitors can expect to enjoy are more than 250 different animal species, an original 5D submarine adventure to the bottom of the seasharks, a 24-foot high Kelp Forest climbing structure for kids, stingrays, a gorgeous 16-foot view of a coral reef, two mirrored art installations that give the sense of infinite ocean life, lionfish, and more than 7,200 individual sea animals. Guests will also meet the Aquarium’s characters Aquarius, the make a 10-story, 90-degree vertical drop, or be amazed by the craftsmen and artisan demonstrations before your eyes.
Fill your belly with good Ozark Mountain cookin’ from one of many tasty restaurants and booths, or become a volunteer for the day at Fireman’s Landing. Once you leave, you'll be counting down the days until your next visit!
wise and helpful Giant Pacific Octopus and Finn, the adventurous Golden Puffer.
3. The Track Family Fun Parks Turn, putt, soar, and play at the Track Family Fun Parks in Branson. The Tracks offer three different high-rise tracks including the Wild Woody, The Lumberjack and Heavy Metal High Rise, bumper boats, mini golf, laser tag, the Sky Coaster, the iconic Navy Pier Ferris Wheel, the Branson Skyscraper and so much more. Let loose, take a spin and let the good times roll at the Track Family Fun Parks.
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4. Shepherd of the Hills Adventure Park
intriguing activities, experiments and mysteries sure to entertain, educate and inspire the whole family.
Shepherd of the Hills is not only an historically significant stop in the Ozarks, it is also a fun-stocked attraction.
6. Beyond the Lens!
Shepherd of the Hills was recently voted USA Today’ s Best Aerial Adventure Park in America. The outdoor ropes course, ATV track, ziplines, live shows, restaurant, petting zoo and more make this family fun park almost unbeatable!
5. WonderWorks Branson’s newest attraction, WonderWorks, has quickly become a crowd favorite. Found in the heart of Branson’s Entertainment District, you can't miss the iconic exterior of WonderWorks, a huge upsidedown house. Once inside, you can discover four stories of interactive and Byways 48
Take an exciting trip behind the scenes of pop culture at one of Branson’s newest and most unique attractions.
Here you’ll find a mix of historical conspiracy theories and interactive, top-of-the-line gaming systems. There are photo ops around every corner, so don’t miss your chance to smile for the camera.
7. Dolly Parton’s Stampede Dinner Attraction Grab your cowboy hat and prepare for a fun family dinner show at Dolly Parton’s Stampede. Be amazed by 32 horses, a large cast of talented trick riders and incredible country-style food. You even get to be a part of some friendly competition as each side of the arena cheers for their competitors to steal the show. Before and after the show, you can visit the outdoor Horse Walk and meet the four-legged stars.
8. Bigfoot Fun Park Bigfoot Fun Park has an adventure in store for all. For indoor fun, check out the extensive arcade and 8Di interactive gaming experience. Outdoors, between the 200-foot free fall of the Gravity Bomb, 200-foot Super Sling ride, themed mini golf course and extensive maze, you will never run out of fun. You can also take a unique, themed trip through the Ozarks on the Discovery Expedition. Byways 49
9. Titanic Museum Attraction The Titanic Museum Attraction is more than a museum—it’s an unforgettable experience. Once you step inside the ship you will climb the grand staircase, meet the crew and become a passenger on the Titanic. Prepare to interact with artifacts and displays, hear stories and sounds from additional passengers and experience history. Before you leave, step outside the ship’s walls to take your picture with a real iceberg and feel the 28 degree water.
10. Fritz’s Adventure This multi-dimensional family attraction brings all the thrills and challenges of outdoor adventure indoors. Fritz’s Adventure’s three stories of challenges and adventure are waiting to be explored. Check skydiving off the bucket list with Fritz’s Areodium, a safe outdoor wind tunnel. Fritz’s restaurant offers both healthy and hearty menu options, so spending the whole day exploring is a breeze. For additional information, visit: ExploreBranson.com
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Byways is published bi-monthly by Byways, Inc. and distributed electronically throughout North America. Byways is emailed to more than 5,000 tour operators and Travel Trade. Subscriptions are complimentary. An iPad & iPhone version is available for consumers in the App Store. An Android browser version is available at www.issuu.com/byways. Byways’ distribution includes motorcoach companies, tour operators, selected travel agents, and
other group tour travel promoters. It is also available to consumers with an interest in North American travel. For advertising rates, editorial deadlines, or to place advertising insertions, contact: Byways Magazine at 502-785-4875. ©Copyright 2021 by Byways, Inc. All rights reserved. No portion of this publication may be duplicated in any form without express written permission of the publisher.
Editor & Publisher Stephen M. Kirchner
Advertising 502-785-4875 Internet
bywaysmagazine.com stephen.kirchner@gmail.com Byways on Facebook Byways on Twitter
Colorado Springs Tourism, Colorado ...........................................................................................5 Dutchess Tourism, New York .........................................................................................................2 Generac Home Standby Generator ...............................................................................................38 Jamestown-Yorktown Foundation, Virginia .................................................................................6 LeafFilter .........................................................................................................................................39
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