Featuring North America’s Leading Travel Destinations
Fairfax Road Trip: 18 Century to Outer Space Maryland’s National Road & Chesapeake Country Georgia’s Scenic Byways Wisconsin’s Frank Lloyd Wright Trail th
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By Stephen Kirchner, Editor & Publisher
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elcome to Byways annual Great American Roads issue. This year’s coverage begins on the East Coast, starting in Virginia and Maryland. We begin with a Fairfax, Virginia Road Trip, which takes us from the 18th century to outer space. First stop is the home of George Washington, and perhaps the most famous home in America, Mount Vernon. Here you can get a glimpse into 18th century living through its beautiful grounds, intriguing museum exhibits, and immersive programs honoring Washington’s legacy. You can even travel to the estate by boat, just the way George did. Next, explore the great outdoors at a local favorite: Great Falls Park. This National Park Serviceoperated site is home to one of the nation’s first canals. From the three falls overlooks, watch the rushing waters of the Potomac River crash over the rocky terrain. This is one of the most photogenic sites in the Washington D.C. region. Be sure to add the new National Museum of the United States Army to your must-see list. The museum tells the story of the U.S. Army’s 200+ year history through the eyes of the American soldier. Visit one of the country’s most jaw-dropping museums: the Smithsonian’s National Air and Space Museum Steven F. Udvar-Hazy Center. It is the larger companion facility to the National Air and Space Museum on the National Mall in Washington, D.C.The two locations house the largest collection of air and space artifacts in the world. Maryland’s historic National Road (also known as the Cumberland Road) was the first major improved highway in the United States built by the federal government. Built between 1811 and 1837, the 620Byways 4
mile road connected the Potomac and Ohio Rivers and was a main transport path to the West for thousands of settlers. Traveling east, the Chesapeake Country All American Road on Maryland’s Eastern Shore incorporates unique features, archaeological, cultural, historic, natural, recreational, or scenic elements making it a top destination for nature and history enthusiasts. The byway stretches 419 miles along the Eastern Shore of Maryland delighting drivers and passengers with the diverse landscapes and water views. Georgia’s Scenic Byways offer some of the state’s most breathtaking scenery while traveling from the mountains of northwest Georgia to the state’s most well-known coastal communities. Ride the Blue Ridge Scenic Railroad, Overlook a gorge at Tallulah Gorge State Park and visit Brasstown Bald, the highest natural point in the state. Then enjoy stunning coastal views from Savannah to Saint Simons and Jeckell Islands. Bill Graves takes us to California’s fabled Pacific Coast Highway. Along the way he visits Vandenberg Air Force Base and ends up in Lompoc. The Frank Lloyd Wright Trail, created in 2017, takes travelers on a self-guided architectural adventure through nine counties in southern Wisconsin. Wright is widely regarded as America’s greatest architect. Born in the state’s rugged Driftless Region, he spent his boyhood summers working his uncle’s farm in Spring Green. The trail begins on Interstate 94 at the Wisconsin-Illinois state line, continues to Madison and then on to his home in southwest Wisconsin. In What’s Happening, Michigan’s Iron Ore Heritage Trail has been recognized for its restoration of former mining lands. Enjoy this issue of Byways.
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Volume 38, Issue No. 5 2021 On the Cover. View of the Downrigging Weekend Tall Ships Festival hosted by the Sultana Education Foundation. For more on Maryland’s Chesapeake Country, turn to page 23. Photo courtesy Kent County Tourism.
Features Fairfax Road Trip: 18th Century to Outer Space ................................................................................... 8 Maryland’s Historic National Road ...................................................................................................... 16 Maryland’s Chesapeake Country ........................................................................................................ 23 Georgia’s Scenic Byways .................................................................................................................... 34 Wisconsin’s Frank Lloyd Wright Trail................................................................................................... 42
Departments Byways Instant Connect ........................................................................................................................ 3 Byways Preview .................................................................................................................................... 4 Traveling the Highways & Byways with Bill Graves............................................................................. 30 Advertiser/Sponsored Content Index .................................................................................................. 53
What’s Happening Michigan’s Iron Ore Heritage Trail ....................................................................................................... 48
Coming in Future Issues Future issues of Byways will feature . . .Great American Roads, Dams & Bridges, Great American Railroads and more . . .
Up Next: Dams & Bridges At right. The Robert Moses Niagara Hydroelectric Power Station, Lewiston, New York. Photo courtesy Busfahrer and Wikimedia Commons CC-BY 3.0.
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Falls Park – where the Potomac River crashes over the rocky terrain – or in front of the iconic Space Shuttle Discovery at the Smithsonian’s National Air and Space Museum Steven F. Udvar-Hazy Center.
Admire the famed architecture of Frank Lloyd Wright or the varied art mediums at the historically significant Workhouse Arts Center (a former prison with fascinating ties to the women’s suffrage movement). Stand in awe at the overlooks of Great
This itinerary breaks down must-see attractions of the Washington, D.C. and Northern Virginia region, but can also be highly customized to your interests, as this is just a sampling of the offerings available in Fairfax County, located in the heart of Northern Virginia and just west of America’s capital city.
ake a road trip from the 18th century to outer space in Fairfax County, Virginia where you will walk in the footsteps of notable resident George Washington at his beloved Mount Vernon home.
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Virginia’s famous peanut soup and a delicious pot pie! Nearby, you can learn about Washington’s other passion – his whiskey and grain business. The reconstructed Distillery & Gristmill is 3 miles away, and shuttles run between both sites daily. Learn from the master distiller how Washington made his famous rye whiskey, now the official state spirit of Virginia and only available for purchase on-site. Next, make your way to another nearby famous historic site. For architecture enthusiasts, this is a 2for-1 must-see. Woodlawn Historic Site was originally part of George Washington’s farm land. In 1799, he gifted the site to his nephew, Lawrence Lewis, and Lewis’ new bride, Eleanor “Nelly” Parke Custis, Martha Washington’s granddaughter, in hopes of keeping Nelly close to Mount Vernon. Fun fact: This house was designed by William Thornton, the architect of the U.S. Capitol in Washington, D.C. Woodlawn also has a captivating history with the Quakers, social activism, and wartime.
Pope-Leighey House Adjacent to Woodlawn, on the same property, sits a masterpiece by the famed American architect Frank Lloyd Wright. The Pope-Leighey House is one of the very few FLW works found on the East Coast – and the only public one in Virginia. The design stands as a classic example of Usonian architecture: a style intended to be both distinctly American and affordable for middle-class families. See firsthand how Wright masterfully blended the house with the environment, something that he liked to call “organic architecture”.
National Museum of the United States Army While in the southern part of Fairfax County, be sure to add the new National Museum of the United States Army to your must-see list. This museum, which opened last Veterans Day, tells the story of the U.S. Army’s 200+ year history through the eyes of the American soldier.
Mount Vernon Start your journey at the most visited historic estate in America, George Washington’s Mount Vernon. You’ll get a glimpse into 18th-century living through its beautiful grounds, intriguing museum exhibits, and immersive programs honoring Washington’s legacy. You can even travel to the estate by boat, just the way George did. Stop for lunch at the Mount Vernon Inn to enjoy dishes from Washington’s lifetime, including
The museum features various galleries and exhibits, a 306-degree multi-sensory theater, a fully interactive Experiential Learning Center, cutting edge simulation and virtual reality experiences, and a gourmet cafe. You don’t need to have connections to the military to appreciate the stories behind those who have sacrificed to protect us. In the evening, enjoy dinner with an international flair at The Block in Annandale. At this modern food hall, you can try a variety of dishes from different Byways 11
vendors all under one roof. From tasty Hawaiian poke bowls to beautifully crafted shaved ice desserts and specialty cocktails, you are sure to have an unforgettable dining experience.
Workhouse Arts Center Visit the inimitable Workhouse Arts Center, home to 60+ artists-in-residence and a place that offers handson workshops including ceramics, eco-art, culinary and/or cocktail classes. You can browse the artist’s galleries, watch them work, or even stay for a performance in the theater. This is also your chance to pick up a unique handmade gift from the gift shop. But the history of the Workhouse Arts Center is truly what sets it apart; it was a former prison for non-violent criminals and played an important role in the battle for women’s voting equality. Make sure to visit the new Lucy Burns Museum onsite to learn about the “Silent Sentinels”, who were imprisoned here after picketing the White House. Their story was a turning point in the passage of the 19th Amendment.
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The Winery at Bull Run Spend a relaxing afternoon with a glass of wine in hand at one of Fairfax County’s prettiest vineyards, The Winery at Bull Run. Situated adjacent to Manassas National Battlefield Park, this historic property allows you to experience the rich Civil War history of the region while enjoying Virginia wine and scenic views. Grab a rocking chair on the deck of the preserved Hillwood house, or see if you can spot the bite marks on the bullets encased in a small display inside the tasting room. Learn from the wine educators as you taste the award-winning wines or a seasonal glass of sangria or cider. Wrap up the day at the vibrant and walkable Mosaic. This trendy urban village features hand-selected stores and gourmet dining along a pedestrian-friendly sidewalk lined with trees. Explore the local boutiques for unique gifts, catch an independent flick at the elegant Angelika Film Center, or, for the more adventurous, try your hand at ax-throwing or paintand-sipping. From health-focused, seasonal fare at True Food Kitchen to all-American cuisine, coffee, and beer at local brewery Caboose Commons, you’ll be spoilt for choice when it comes to dinner options. Enjoy outdoor markets, art exhibits, and live music during warmer months.
Great Falls Park Explore the great outdoors at a local favorite: Great Falls Park. This National Park Serviceoperated site is home to one of the nation’s first canals (more ties to George Washington), and of course, the surprising and stunning Great Falls of the Potomac. From the three falls overlooks, watch the rushing waters of the Potomac River crash over the rocky terrain. This is one of the most photogenic sites in the area – a real gem, given its proximity to a major metropolitan city. After a photo op, enjoy a hike along Mather Gorge’s dramatic clifftops or take an even longer adventure along the Potomac Heritage Trail. You can also bicycle, bird watch, rock climb, or take a guided tour. Just leave the kayaking to the professionals, who you may see practicing their craft over these Class V rapids. Next, head to one of the loveliest botanical gardens
in the region – Meadowlark Gardens, which is also home to the unique – and authentic – Korean Bell Garden. This traditional public Bell Garden is the only one of its kind in the Western Hemisphere and is a symbol of the friendship between Virginia and South Korea. Fun fact: In the spring during the National Cherry Blossom Festival, you can enjoy the bloom of cherry blossom trees around Meadowlark’s Lake Caroline and in the winter, you absolutely don’t want to miss the Winter Walk of Lights holiday show.
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Wolf Trap, America’s only National Park dedicated to the Performing Arts End the day with a picnic under the stars and a live performance at one of the country’s top live music venues. Wolf Trap is America’s only National Park dedicated to the performing arts and features a yearround calendar of events. Because Wolf Trap is a National Park, you can also expect to find the familiar trails and scenic nature escapes on-site. Children will especially love the summer venue, Wolf Trap Children’s Theatre-in-theWoods, nestled in the parkland’s wooded areas. Fun fact: Bring your own food and drinks to enjoy on the lawn during shows at the Filene Center or enjoy Wolf Trap’s outdoor restaurant, concession options, or picnic caterer. Kick start the day with a cup of coffee from local roasters Weird Brothers Coffee in Herndon. This family-owned shop is sure to bring a smile (and caffeine jolt) to your face.
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Steven F. Udvar-Hazy Center Then, head to one of the area’s most jaw-dropping museums: the Smithsonian’s National Air and Space Museum Steven F. Udvar-Hazy Center. The UdvarHazy Center in Virginia is the larger companion facility to the National Air and Space Museum on the National Mall in Washington, D.C. Together, the two locations house the largest collection of air and space artifacts in the world. Its two huge hangars display thousands of aviation and space artifacts, including a Lockheed SR-71 Blackbird, a Concorde, and the iconic Space Shuttle Discovery – the most traveled, and record-breaking, of NASA’s orbiters. With special programs offered throughout the year, there’s always something extra exciting happening at this must-visit museum. After you pick your jaw back up from the floor and spend the morning exploring this massive museum,
you’ll probably be hungry. For lunch options, drive just 10 minutes for tasty barbecue and beer at Ono Brewing Company and its on-site food vendor, Odd BBQ. Relax in Ono Brewing’s expansive tropicalthemed tasting room or outside under their tiki lounge and enjoy the beer of your choice from their unique self-serve beer wall. When you’re ready to eat, Odd BBQ specializes in unique creations that combine the flavors of Korean and American barbecue. End your day on a sweet note with a chocolatemaking class at River-Sea Chocolate Factory & Liquid Chocolate Cafe. Just steps away from Ono Brewing Company, this intimate, husband-and-wifeowned chocolate factory crafts artisan chocolate using premium quality cacao sourced from smallscale sustainable farms around the world. Enjoy a tasting, tour, or chocolate making/bar decorating class. Don’t forget to buy a few tasty bars to take home with you! https://www.fxva.com
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ollow the story of an enduring heritage – trace the nation’s oldest road across Maryland’s diverse landscape, from Baltimore in the east to the mountains in the west – Maryland’s Historic National Road.
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roundhouse. Visit the birthplace of American railroading and see the most important American railroad collection in the world. Seasonal train rides are offered. The collection is housed in the original, eye-catching roundhouse built in 1884.
The National Road (also known as the Cumberland Road) was the first major improved highway in the United States built by the federal government. Built between 1811 and 1837, the 620-mile road connected the Potomac and Ohio Rivers and was a main transport path to the West for thousands of settlers.
Further west of the city is Catonsville, which was developed in 1810 and became a favorite for summer homes when linked to downtown Baltimore by electric trolley lines.
Baltimore to Frederick Begin at water’s edge in the Inner Harbor area, where you’ll find shopping, fine dining and walking among harborside attractions. Then follow Lombard Street on the first portion of the National Road – originally known as the Baltimore National Pike – through several historic neighborhoods, including Union Square, which journalist H.L. Mencken called home. Your next stop is the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad Museum, located inside a beautifully restored Byways 18
Before crossing the Patapsco River, drive through the charming little town of Oella, which contains the Benjamin Banneker Historical Park and Museum, dedicated to the African-American mathematician who helped calculate Washington, D.C.’s boundaries. This 142-acre homestead honors the land and legacy of a Free African-American man who lived during the 1700s. Beyond the Patapsco River, Ellicott City has antique shops and unique restaurants in historic buildings. This old mill town features America’s oldest surviving railroad station, the B & O Railroad Station Museum, as well as Thomas Isaac’s Log Cabin,
which served as a National Road way station. The railroad station was designated a National Historic Landmark in 1968. Next comes Mount Airy. Formerly a railroad and turnpike town, it now features an interesting concentration of vineyards that are open for tours and picnics. This area is also popular for its boutiques and antiques, more of which you will find down the road in New Market.
Frederick to Hagerstown Downtown Frederick is the hub from which charming Main Street communities, romantic accommodations and inspirational attractions fan out like the spokes of a wagon wheel. Two centuries of architecture are represented at numerous homes and public buildings, including the Barbara Ritchie House and the National Museum of Civil War Medicine. Here you can immerse yourself in exhibits illustrating the story of the patients, caregivers and medical innovations of American Civil War. It
offers educational programs, guided tours and a museum store. The town also features entertainment ranging from theatrical productions to minor-league baseball. At the end of a long day, one of Frederick’s inns or bed and breakfasts is a welcome sight. As you head out beyond Braddock Heights and the farming village of Middletown, consider making time for a sidetrack into Washington Monument State Park for a hike on the Appalachian Trail to the first monument erected in George Washington’s honor. The Cumberland Valley offers superb birdwatching opportunities The park is located along a noted migratory bird flyway, so bring your binoculars. In Boonsboro, the not-to-be-missed National Road Museum, features exhibits on traveling the National Road in its heyday and the movement to expand and populate America’s untamed West. Continuing west,
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the farmland of Funkstown is dotted with Pennsylvania-Dutch bank barns and smaller Englishstyle structures.
Hagerstown to Cumberland So many early railroad lines were linked into Hagerstown that it earned the nickname “Hub City”. The C&O Canal also flowed through this area, whose towpath trail now draws legions of bicyclists and hikers. The town itself — featuring the South Prospect Street Historic District — has a Roundhouse Museum among several other sites dedicated to preserving local history, including the
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Jonathan Hager House Museum. Hagerstown highlights include The Washington County Museum of Fine Arts and the Hagerstown Cultural Trail, featuring work from internationally recognized artists. Traveling along U.S. 40 toward Clear Spring, look for the Wilson Bridge Neighborhood Park, a small waterfront park that offers a fine view of the five stone arches that support the 210-foot-long Wilson Bridge. Dating back to 1819, it’s the oldest and longest bridge of its kind in Washington County. It is also
the site of the 160-year-old Wilson Country School and Store. Take a sidetrack south along MD 56 to Fort Frederick State Park. Based in Big Pool, the fort was the cornerstone of Maryland’s defense more than 250 years ago during the French & Indian War. Next is Hancock, where the C & O Canal National Historical Park offers a deeper exploration of canal life. After a climb up Sideling Hill, which was the scene of many stagecoach mishaps due to the steep turns, you’re ready for a relaxing round of golf amid the ridges and valleys of Rocky Gap Casino Resort, followed by a satisfying stay there or in Cumberland.
Cumberland to State Line Cumberland, like Hagerstown, was a transportation crossroads with ties to highway, railroad and canal transportation, and is now just as popular for its galleries, theaters and museums. Live theater, steam train, the western terminus of the C&O Canal and an outdoor mountain life found only in the Alleghenies. Small town charm with a history that dates to 1787. Take a steam engine train ride on the Western Maryland Scenic Railroad. Climb 1,291 vertical feet from Cumberland to Frostburg through the Alleghany Mountains. Murder mystery trains, caboose rides, cab rides, hand on the throttle. Or take
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an exhilarating bike ride on the Great Allegheny Passage Rail Trail to Frostburg, site of a nationally known carriage museum. In LaVale, the route passes Maryland’s National Toll Gate House, outside of which a plaque still displays the cost for wagons, animals and pedestrians to pass. It is the only remaining toll gate on the National Road in Maryland. The toll house is a historical site that is open to visitors at all times. Interpretive signage is available on site and guests can peer inside the toll house to sneak a peek of eras ago. Conestoga wagons once crossed the Casselman River Bridge, a single-span, stone-arch structure built for the National Road near Grantsville. The 80-ft. stone arch bridge was the largest of its kind when constructed in 1813. Located along the National Road, it linked Cumberland with the Ohio River. The bridge now connects a state park to the Spruce Forest Artisan Village, site of a former stagecoach stop. The village serves as a cultural center promoting local arts, crafts and music from the Appalachian Mountain region of Maryland. Byways 22
U.S. 40 Alternate then winds through the northern section of Savage River State Forest and over Keysers Ridge to the Mason-Dixon Line. It is the largest state forest with more than 54,000 acres; approximately 12,000 acres designated wild lands. Camping, fishing, hunting, four-wheeler and snowmobile trails are available. https://www.visitmaryland.org
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he Chesapeake Country All American Road on Maryland’s Eastern Shore incorporates several unique features such as: archaeological, cultural, historic, natural, recreational, or scenic elements making it a top destination for nature and history enthusiasts. The byway stretches over 419 miles along the Eastern Shore of Maryland delighting drivers and passengers with the diverse landscapes and water views. Only two hours from Baltimore, Washington, DC, Annapolis, or Northern Virginia, Kent County is a perfect example of how a getaway destination can enable stress release from our body and minds. Rich with beautiful scenery and diverse activities, this waterfront haven offers visitors year-round experiences that showcase the depth and beauty of each season. While there are many great sites and segments of the drive, the bucolic peninsula of Kent County, claims a significant portion along the All-American Road. Kent County is a destination of historic waterfront towns, stretches of low, rolling farmlands, dramatic sunsets, scenic beauty, rich heritage, and home to a National Wildlife Refuge (Eastern Neck Island). Whether you are driving or cycling the two-lane roadways of the All-American Road, there are plenty of opportunities for Sponsored Content
exploration. Consider doing some segments by bicycle, like from Georgetown (near Kitty Knight House, the famous site of where Ms. Kitty fended off British troops during the War of 1812) to Chestertown. Chestertown boasts its authentic 18th and 19th century homes, red brick sidewalks, specialty shops and art galleries. While there, take a sail along the Chester River on the River Packet, a 1920-style tour boat, and enjoy home-made cuisine crafted from local meats and produce. Continue the journey with a lovely drive from Chestertown to Rock Hall. Rock Hall is shaped by its generations of watermen and farmers with a plethora of dining options with exquisite waterfront views. Once in Rock Hall, be sure not to miss the scenic ride to the Eastern Neck National Wildlife Refuge on Eastern Neck Island. Experience incredible bird sightings along the roads and trails of Eastern Neck or wander through picturesque grasslands in search of painted lady butterflies passing stunning panoramic views of the Chesapeake Bay. Other delightful stops along the All-American Road in Kent County are Crow Winery & Vineyard, in Kennedyville, where you can enjoy local wines and ambiance. Or the Sultana Education Foundation, in Chestertown, where you can paddle the scenic Chester River and other secluded rivers throughout the county. If you enjoy outdoor adventure, Kent County’s waterfront is also a great place to fish the rivers or the Chesapeake Bay with licensed fishing captains. Be sure not to miss the locals’ favorite fishing spots (Chester River Bridge, Sassafras River Bridge, Eastern Neck Island Bridge, Wilmer Park, and Turners Creek Landing). Or take a scenic boat ride with knowledgeable charter boat captains who are happy to provide a history lesson (or two) along the journey. For information on Kent County Tourism visit http://www.kentcounty.com/visitors
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aryland’s Chesapeake Country follows 419 miles from Chesapeake City to Crisfield on country roads along the bay’s edge and part of the Great Chesapeake Bay Loop. Maryland’s Eastern Shore is divided into three regions.
Upper Eastern Shore Discover a patchwork landscape of eclectic small towns draped across the pristine beauty of Maryland’s gorgeous Eastern Shore. Experience the shore’s centuries-old tradition of hospitality served with a heaping side of unparalleled Maryland seafood (crabs, oysters, rockfish – no need to choose, try them all!) and the remarkable waters of the Chesapeake Bay. Take your time experiencing the special beauty of this tidewater region with its pristine waterways and vibrant historic waterfront villages. From Chesapeake City, you can look out over the 14mile-long Chesapeake and Delaware Canal to see modern-day ships dwarfing Victorian homes and Byways 26
shops along the banks. The C&D Canal Museum captures the history of the 165-year-old waterway. A side trip reveals the graceful beauty of Mount Harmon Plantation in Earleville. This 200-acre colonial plantation, featuring an antiques-filled manor house museum and walking trails, is on a peninsula surrounded by the Sassafras River. Across the river is Georgetown, which the British burned during the War of 1812 but has been rebuilt and is a popular place for dining and entertainment. Continue toward Galena and on to Kennedyville, where you will find Crow Farm Vineyard and Winery. Stop at the Kent Museum to see displays of antique tractors, horse-drawn sleds and household equipment. Head to Chestertown, a colonial port and National Historic Landmark, which is home to Washington College, founded in 1782 and named for its patron, George Washington. Among the elegant brick town homes in the city’s Historic District you can enjoy concerts in the square.
Washington College was the first college chartered in the sovereign United States of America. General George Washington lent his name, donated 50 guineas to the founding and served on the first Board of the college. Chestertown is a historic town along the banks of the Chester River. The brick sidewalks lined with shops, restaurants and inns welcome visitors to meander and browse. A visit to Chestertown’s Historic District to admire the fine colonial residences is a must. Get out on the water on the Captain John Smith National Historic Water Trail with a paddling or sailing tour led by the Sultana Education Foundation. On board the Schooner Sultana, you can connect to the Chesapeake Bay’s history, ecology and culture, and become inspired to be a part of preserving and restoring America’s largest estuary. Sultana’s Downrigging Weekend Tall Ship and Wooden Boat Festival in late October has evolved into one of the
largest annual Tall Ship gatherings on the East Coast. Serving as Kent County’s seat of government since 1706, Chestertown has been a Royal Point of Entry, the scene of its own Revolutionary Tea Party in 1774, and the hub of a bustling agricultural and seafood region.
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With fall upon us, Kent County invites visitors to explore the crisp, cool, and refreshing season. A fall escape filled with leaf peeping hikes, or a tranquil paddling adventure are the perfect components for your next getaway. Whether driving or cycling its two-lane roadways, you will discover calming landscapes of low, rolling farmland, dramatic sunsets, and rich heritage. Home to some of the most quaint and delightful towns (Chestertown, Rock Hall, Galena, Betterton, and Millington), you will be enthralled by exploring the The area that extends from Chestertown through Centreville and into Queenstown is famous for its large number of fine antiques shops. But you can also find bargains on name-brand items at Premium Outlets. Along the way, make a stop at the Museum of Eastern Shore Life to admire an eclectic collection of artifacts ranging from a log canoe to early hand tools.
Middle Eastern Shore Head east on U.S. 50 to Wye Mills and tour the Old Wye Grist Mill, to witness the oldest continuously historic architecture, enjoying visual and performing arts, savoring wines from local vineyards, sampling concoctions at the resident distillery or shopping along red-brick sidewalks. Veer southwest to Rock Hall, which has more than a dozen marinas offering mooring and charter services. The town also prides itself on excellent seafood dining, a homemade ice cream shop and a small, maritime-oriented museum. The Eastern Neck National Wildlife Refuge, an isolated ecosystem with nesting bald eagles and extensive hiking trails, is just to the south. Byways 28
working water-powered grist mill in the country. During the American Revolution, the Wye Grist Mill shipped barrels of flour via the Chesapeake Bay to the Continental Army, commanded by General George Washington. Historians dubbed the Eastern Shore the “Breadbasket of the Revolution”.
Learn about Harriet Tubman’s daring rescue missions at the Harriet Tubman Underground Railroad National Historical Park. Natural splendor is found at sites such as the Blackwater National Wildlife Refuge, which hosts the East Coast’s largest nesting population of bald eagles.
Back on the main route, travel to Easton and beyond to the Tilghman Island peninsula. This area, with its bayside beauty and more than 350 years of history, inspired James Michener to write the epic novel Chesapeake.
Lower Eastern Shore From Vienna, known for its rich Nanticoke River and Chesapeake Bay legacy, this section of the byway has two travel options. One travels north to Federalsburg, where a scenic creek flows from the Idylwild Wildlife Management Area and winds through town. The other heads east toward the urban center of the region, Salisbury. History and culture mingle here with a pedestrianfriendly shopping plaza, a zoo, minor league baseball, and the Ward Museum of Wildfowl Art, featuring the world’s largest and finest collection of decorative and antique decoys. In Whitehaven, a rural village below Salisbury, the historic Whitehaven Ferry runs on the Wicomico River. Then, in Princess Anne, the 200-year-old, neoclassical Teackle Mansion rests among 300 Federal-style and Victorian structures.
Easton has been the sophisticated center of the Eastern Shore since its founding in 1790. Today it’s known for its excellent restaurants, outstanding lodging, an assortment of upscale boutiques plus its studios and galleries abuzz in a vibrant arts scene. In Easton, the restored, art deco Avalon Theatre hosts nationally known performing artists, while crafters display their wares at nearby specialty shops. St. Michaels, a former shipbuilding center now popular among pleasure boaters, features the Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum with its working boatyard and restored 1879 lighthouse. Just down the road is Tilghman Island, which offers skipjack cruises and fine local cuisine. Cross the wide Choptank River and enter the city of Cambridge. On the waterfront at Long Wharf, the Choptank River Lighthouse creates an idyllic scene that belies the busy port that once existed here.
Continue to Pocomoke City and the Delmarva Discovery Museum to explore how people’s lives have been shaped by the water and land. Get up-close with Diamondback Terrapins, Horseshoe Crabs, North American River Otters and more through hands-on exhibits about the Chesapeake’s habitats. Follow the byway to one of the southernmost spots in Maryland – Crisfield – famous for its local seafood, peaceful water trails and annual Hard Crab Derby. Kayak or canoe among towering loblolly pine forests and tidal marshes with sandy beaches at Janes Island State Park, a nature lover’s paradise. Cruises and ferries run from Crisfield to nearby Smith Island, Maryland’s only inhabited island accessible only by boat. Here visitors can see the Chesapeake watermen’s life in action at its docks, villages and at the Smith Island Crabmeat Coop. Don’t miss having a piece of Smith Island Cake, Maryland’s official state dessert. https://www.visitmaryland.org
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Traveling the Highways & Byways with Bill Graves Lompoc, California T his fabled highway runs up the California coast, at times right at the ocean’s edge. It passes by Los Angeles and San Francisco almost unnoticed. Then in towns like Newport Beach, Malibu and Corona DelMar, it is the main street.
Officially called Highway 1, the Pacific Coast Highway was built when America’s cars first needed roads to run on, a need that still determines how wide it gets. Where traffic has mandated its expansion, its personality as a twolane scenic byway disappear, and its highway number becomes an also ran. For example, once out of the Los Angeles maze, the northbound Coast Highway temporarily becomes U.S. 101, the first superhighway to San Francisco.
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Beyond Santa Barbara at Gaviota, U.S. 101 heads north and Highway 1 gets back its identity and takes off on its own. It swings inland for about 55 miles, leaving ocean-view, coastal travel exclusively to Amtrak passengers on the tracks of the Southern Pacific Railroad. Highway 1 joins the ocean again at Grover City and Pismo Beach. On this inland passage, the Coast Highway cuts across Vandenberg Air Force Base. This space flight and missile facility covers about 100,000 acres, which includes 30 miles of raw coastline. Vandenberg is the largest piece of oceanfront property on the West Coast – probably the whole country – that is pretty much as it has always been. Part of the Pacific Missile Range, this expanse of land, which is bigger than many European countries, is more a physical barrier than anything.
The Air Force does not traipse around on it like the Marine Corp or Army would, conducting training exercises and war games. As a result, plants and wildlife live there relatively undisturbed. I was on that inland passage tracing the El Jarco Creek through the rounded hills and long shadows of the Santa Ynez Mountains. It was a lazy drive until just short of Lompoc. There the road took on shape, mostly curves, and the oncoming traffic became a frenzy. The workday was ending.
on a jacket. We walked the hard sand to the very edge of the American continent. The light surf rolled out the unbroken roar of a waterfall. We walked to the fence that closed off Vandenberg to the public. A few feet over our heads, sea gulls hung in the low fog like ceiling fixtures. They were watching my dog Rusty, I think. She seemed oblivious to everything except the frothy
The highway took me into the center of Lompoc on Ocean Avenue, which is “subject to flooding” according to warning signs posted along it. The person who named it, obviously, had been on it a day when it did. Nothing so fanciful happened, of course. Ocean Avenue merely leads to the ocean. So I let it take me there. It was nine miles to the empty beach and a place called Surf, little more than a railroad crossing. Heavy fog enveloped us like a vaporous cocoon. I parked, got out Rusty’s leash and pulled Byways 31
water that rushed toward her feet and then disappeared. Were it not for the defense needs of our country, this beach would surely be lined with high-rise condos and restaurants draped with decorative fishnets and colored lanterns. Beside saving the world from a few disasters, our military has quietly preserved this piece of Pacific frontier for generations to come.
of a building and took up half a block. Even a door left open did not make a significant void in the picture. It was that big. The Lompoc Murals Project began in 1988 and probably will go on forever. It now numbers 20 works of art on buildings around town, depicting events in local history. I found 10 of them, all within five minutes of where I parked. One alley is a two-walled, outdoor art galley with murals of persons and porpoises.
Obviously, it is not the mission of the Air Force to be a land conservator. They got the job here by default, and they have done it well by just maintaining the fence. Leaving the beach, we passed through a curtain of fog. The sun and Lompoc lay on the other side. This town is not a saltwater tourist mecca like the others tethered to it by Highway 1. I don’t suppose a Snoopy beach towel is even sold here, nor the knickknacks you buy a third cousin who is getting married again. Lompoc appears focused on its people, not those coming in off the highway. That was good enough for me. We stayed.
We settled at the town’s RV park next to the Santa Yenz River. The river is dry, but a sign warns again of sudden flooding. Guess it could happen, but not tonight.
I stopped at the open-air farmers’ market, a once a week occurrence at Ocean and I Streets. Vegetable shoppers clustered around stands, shaded by wide umbrellas. Behind them, like a colorful stage curtain, was a huge mural with sweeping waves of blues, reds, greens, and browns. It was painted on the side
And Darrel Schuyler has been here the whole time. “I am a third-generation farmer,” Darrel said. “We grow flowers for seeds, not for funerals and things like that. But much of that seed production has moved to Chili and China. The hottest crop going now is asparagus.”
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The next morning, thick fog made the day look chillier than it really was. Although the people here can’t see the ocean, their weather is controlled by it. This marine influence, with days beginning and ending in moisture-laden fog, has made the Lompoc Valley ideal for growing flowers. It has been the sole crop here for most of this century.
I met Darrel in the Hi Restaurant, where he and a group of fellows gather for coffee most mornings. Every town has a place like Hi’s. If there is one group recreation that remains exclusively male, in this increasingly unisex world, it happens every morning in small-town America around Formicatopped tables. Like an all-night poker game, the composition at the table changes one at a time. “It takes two years to get a crop of asparagus,” Darrel was saying. “They cut it by hand and wrap in a wet blotter that feed it going to the market, which is a good ways off-in Japan.” He began telling me how hard it is to grow seedless watermelon seeds. “That’s why the seeds sell for $1,500 a pound.” “You mean more like a ton?” I was sure that one of us had gotten it wrong. “No, a pound. That’s about a quarter full.” Before I could pursue this question further, we got sidetracked saying goodbye to the judge, who was leaving for court.
talk with him again. The price of seedless watermelon seeds still hounded me. I wanted to get it right. So I spent much of that day working at it. My search led me all over town. I drew a blank at the Chamber of Commerce. They made some phone calls, tried to help, but couldn’t. I asked a lady at a plant nursery. She thought I was nuts, I think, but referred me to the Bodger Seeds Company at the edge of town. They only knew about flower seeds, and they showed me multiple bags of those. I even called the Santa Barbara County Growers Association. Their answer: “We don’t grow melons in this county.” As a last resort, I logged on the Internet and tied in with the Froese Seed Company in Albuquerque, New Mexico. Kathleen Froese wrote me that she sells seedless watermelon seeds to truck farmers for 11 or 12 cents apiece. “By the pound, they could run as high as $1,500,” she wrote. But the ones she sells retail for about $750. I guess if you plant them one at a time, it doesn’t seem like so much.
Everyone was very courteous to the judge, the only man in the restaurant wearing a tie. The fellow across the table changed the subject to diatomaceous earth. He mined it, which involves scraping it off the sides of mountains. “It’s used in filters. Actually, it’s a few million layers of a few million years worth of dead marine life, like crustaceans and algae,” the miner explained. “Out of here, most of it goes to the brewing industry. You find it too in swimming pool filters and the stuff they put in boxes for cats pee on.”
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The Lompoc Valley is the world’s largest producer of diatomaceous earth, or diatomite. Obviously, this was ocean bottom eons ago. In spite of drying in sun since then, it is still 50 percent water, which is cooked out in its processing.
About the author: After seeing much of the world as a career naval officer, Bill Graves decided, after he retired, to take a closer look at the United States. He has been roaming the country for 20 years, much of it in a motorhome with his dog Rusty. He lives in Rancho Palos Verdes, California and is the author of On the Back Roads, Discovering Small Towns of America.
Darrel drifted off somewhere. I never got a chance to
He can be reached at Roadscribe@aol.com. Byways 33
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rive among Georgia’s Scenic Byways and enjoy some of the state’s most breathtaking scenery as you explore the mountains of northwest Georgia.
Cohutta to Ellijay Spanning from Cohutta to Ellijay, the 56-mile Cohutta Chattahoochee Scenic Byway travels through the Chattahoochee National Forest, plus several charming towns. A drive along the Cohutta Chattahoochee Scenic Byway affords a view of northwest Georgia’s natural beauty and historic sites. Shop in the downtowns of Dalton and Chatworth, eat at local diners and enjoy the flavor of the southern mountain communities.
restored mansion built in 1804. This town is also home to Fort Mountain State Park, a great place to stretch your legs on more than 3,700 acres of trails. A scenic drive on Hwy. 52 near the Cohutta Wilderness leads visitors to this mountain getaway. Hikers, mountain bikers and horseback riders will find some of the most beautiful trails in Georgia, winding through hardwood forest and blueberry thickets, crossing streams and circling a pretty lake. Finish your road trip by picking apples in Ellijay, Georgia’s Apple Capital, where you may also buy jams and baked goods to take home.
Chief Vann House Historic Site
The Woodpecker Trail: Augusta to Folkston
Drive east and break for lunch in Chatsworth. Explore the Chief Vann House Historic Site, a
The Woodpecker Trail is named for the abundant woodpeckers inhabiting pine forests along Georgia
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State Route 121. This 204-mile drive passes through eastern Georgia. The Woodpecker Trail has been named one of the 50 most scenic drives in America. Established in 1947 by the Woodpecker Route Association, the route was well traveled from the 1950s to 1970s. The Woodpecker Trail is a scenic and historic route along state routes 25/121. The 620-mile route, once billed as “the shortest route to Florida’s West Coast”, stretches from Charlotte, NC, to St. Petersburg, FL. Stop in Folkston to visit the Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge, a 396,000-acre home for endangered cranes, hawks, owls, and bald eagles. This pristine 680-square-mile wilderness is an ecological wonder. The main entrance to the National Wildlife Refuge is located near Folkston, GA, approximately one hour from Jacksonville, FL. Hike the Chesser Island Boardwalk to the Owl’s Roost Tower for an unparalleled view of the swamp prairies and the Okefenokee Wilderness. The Richard S. Bolt Visitor Center is a perfect place to begin your Okefenokee experience. Talk to refuge staff and
volunteers about recreational opportunities, recent wildlife sightings, and explore the educational exhibits and watch the orientation video in the auditorium. Gordonia-Alatamaha State Park is a favorite for picnicking, fishing, and spotting beaver dams. In historic Metter, take a meditative stroll through Guido Gardens. Guido Gardens is a tranquil and meditative garden with sparkling waterfalls, babbling brooks, inspiring music and a beautiful Prayer Chapel. It is located at the production home of The Sower’s telecasts. If you’re needing some time to reflect or just get back into balance, you can stroll through the gardens or take some meditative time in the prayer chapel. The garden is open 24 hours a day, every day of the year.
Leave the Interstate for Stunning Coastal Views: Savannah to St. Marys Avoid the traffic and hop onto Coastal Highway U.S. 17, which runs through Richmond Hill south to Darien, past Butler Island to the port city of Brunswick. Brunswick is laid out in a formal grid
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similar to Savannah’s, with city streets and squares still bearing their colonial names. Explore the historic area, which is enjoying a renaissance and features shops, restaurants and beautiful homes reflecting a variety of styles dating from 1819. Docked at the wharf, the array of shrimp boats are ready to trawl the local waters’ evidence of the area's rich seafood industry. Try your hand at shrimping aboard the Lady Jane, the only shrimp vessel on the East Coast that has been certified to carry passengers offshore. Sample the catch of the day at one of the fine restaurants. Detour here to St. Simons Island and Sea Island, or cross the cable-stayed Sydney Lanier Bridge – with 360-degree views of the Brunswick River – to the causeway entrance for Jekyll Island. St. Simons captivates visitors with remarkable scenery and fascinating history. The island’s villages offer a charming and unique selection of shops, fascinating museums, and challenging golf courses. Since 1928, Sea Island has been known as an exceptional destination, appealing to those who appreciate gracious service and heartfelt hospitality. Byways 38
One of four barrier islands in the Golden Isles on the southeastern coast of Georgia, Sea Island features five miles of private beach. Owned by the State of Georgia and managed by the Jekyll Island State Park Authority, Jekyll Island has had development limited to just 35 percent of its available land area. This unique aspect of Jekyll Island serves to preserve the critical barrier island ecosystem, and provide guests with a unique escape. Raise your expectations for what a Georgia beach excursion can be! Jekyll Island is a barrier island on Georgia’s coast – midway between Jacksonville, Florida, and Savannah, Georgia. Accessible by car just minutes from I-95, Jekyll Island offers a variety of amenities, including 10 miles of beach, four golf courses, a 250-acre Historic Landmark District, the Georgia Sea Turtle Center, Summer Waves Water Park, tennis center, and an array of lodging options. Meandering past forts, rivers, and salt marshes, U.S. Highway 17 also serves as a scenic drive for the Colonial Coast Birding Trail. More than 300 species of birds (75 percent of the total species of birds seen in Georgia) have been spotted at the 18
sites along the birding trail. Don’t expect to see most of these birds on a single visit. Shorelines, salt marshes, old rice fields, woodlands, tidal rivers, freshwater wetlands and other habitats host their own fascinating bird communities.
Harris Neck National Wildlife Refuge Enjoy17 viewing spots to observe more than 300 species during migration and nesting season. Harris Neck National Wildlife Refuge was established in 1962 by a transfer of federal lands formerly managed by the Federal Aviation Administration as a WWII Army airfield. Located in McIntosh County, the refuge serves as an important link in the chain of refuges along the Atlantic seaboard, and is the inland base for two neighboring barrier island refuges, Blackbeard Island and Wolf Island refuges, both located southeast of Harris Neck. Harris Neck’s 2,762 acres consists of saltwater marsh, grassland, mixed deciduous woods and cropland. Because of this great variety in habitat, many different species of birds are attracted to the refuge throughout the year. In the summer, thousands of egrets and herons nest in the swamps, while in the Byways 39
winter, large concentrations of ducks (especially mallards, gadwall and teal) gather in the marshland and freshwater pools.
Take a Train Ride The North Georgia mountains are ideal for experiencing some of the finest views. The Blue Ridge Scenic Railway offers fall leaf excursions each October. Beginning at the historic depot in downtown Blue Ridge, wind your way along the Toccoa River in a vintage rail car, observing the canvas of bright colors. Step back in time as you and your family enjoy a four-hour railway excursion along the beautiful Toccoa River from Blue Ridge to McCaysville. Choose an authentic indoor car, open rail car or Premier Class. The destination is the mountain town of McCaysville, Georgia, sister city to Copperhill, Tennessee. During your two-hour layover, have lunch and take a walk across the “Blue Line” on the street and you’re in Tennessee! You can actually stand in two states at once if you have one foot on the Georgia side and the other on the Tennessee side. Byways 40
Overlook a Gorge Memorable scenes are on display at Tallulah Gorge State Park, one of the Southeast’s most popular canyons. Hike on trails overlooking the rim and waterfalls, and take in the glimmering yellow oaks and red-tinted maple trees. In November, watch the biannual “whitewater releases” when expert kayakers brave the rapids. Get ready to be amazed by the beautiful waterfalls, landscape and scenery that is Tallulah Gorge. One of the most spectacular canyons in the eastern U.S.,
Tallulah Gorge is two miles long and nearly 1,000 feet deep. Visitors can hike rim trails to several overlooks, or they can obtain a permit to hike to the gorge floor (100 per day, not available during water releases). A suspension bridge sways 80 feet above the rocky bottom, providing spectacular views of the river and waterfalls.
The State’s Highest Point A stop by Brasstown Bald is a must to see the autumn landscape from the highest natural point in the state. The Brasstown Bald Visitors Center sits atop Georgia’s
highest mountain at 4,784 feet above sea level. Surrounded by the Chattahoochee-Oconee National Forest, its cloud level observation deck offers stunning 360-degree views of the Southern Appalachian Mountains and valleys. On a clear day, one can see four states. When fall makes its much anticipated appearance in North Georgia, in-the-know leaf peepers head to one spot: Brasstown Bald near Blairsville. As the state’s highest peak, Brasstown Bald is also among the first to display the season’s riotous fall colors. Even in summer, you’ll find the mountain a worthy escape thanks to its picturesque location amid the Chattahoochee-Oconee National Forest and its refreshing temperatures. https://www.exploregeorgia.org
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stablished in 2017, the Frank Lloyd Wright Trail takes travelers on a self-guided architectural adventure through nine counties in southern Wisconsin. Wright was widely regarded as America’s greatest architect. Born in the state’s rugged Driftless Region, he spent his boyhood summers working his uncle’s farm in Spring Green and eventually built his own famous home and studio just a mile away. Nine stops across southern Wisconsin trace the steps of this world-renowned architect from some of his most impressive structures to his home and birthplace. The designated motor route spans from Kenosha County to Richland County. It begins on Interstate 94 at the Wisconsin-Illinois state line, continues to Madison and then on to his home in southwest Wisconsin. Watch for posted signs along highways. The landscape’s dramatic bluffs and coulees inspired Wright’s natural, organic architecture and the style for which he is famous, the Prairie style. All told, more than a third of his buildings are on the National Register of Historic Places or are included in the National Register of Historic Districts. While Wright’s structures are scattered throughout the world, Wisconsin is home to a great number of them in close proximity. Plan your trip, hop on the trail and discover what you didn’t know about this Byways 44
architect and his unique structures that all have a story of their own. There’s so much to do and see along the way!
1 and 2. SC Johnson Administration Building and Research Tower – Racine This pair of structures serves as the global headquarters of household cleaning product manufacturer SC Johnson. The Administration Building, built in 1939, has been called one of the top 25 buildings of the 20th century, and Wright designed everything down to the furniture. Perhaps most impressive is the Great Workroom, with a half-acre of open space and massive tree-inspired columns. The Research Tower, completed just more than a decade later, is one of the world’s tallest cantilevered buildings. Like the Administration Building’s 43 miles of glass windows, Wright used thousands of Pyrex tubes to reduce glare and refract light in the tower. The building’s most renowned exhibit is a replicated 1950s laboratory, where the company’s scientists developed famous products like Glade, Pledge, Raid and OFF. If you’re looking for a bite to eat, head to Corner House or Wells Brothers Pizza. Also nearby is O&H Danish Bakery where you can pick up an awardwinning Kringle.
3. Wingspread – Wind Point Wright’s work for the Johnson family didn’t end with their worldwide headquarters. H.F. Johnson Jr., the SC Johnson Company’s third-generation leader, also commissioned the architect to build his family estate. With four wings jutting out across 14,000 square feet of space, Wright completed his sprawling creation in 1939 and named it “Wingspread”. Though it’s the largest of Wright’s Prairie style
houses, the estate stays true to the architect’s organic roots by blending into the surrounding 30 acres of woodland and prairie with the architect’s use of natural materials like limestone, brick, stucco and unstained wood. A 30-foot chimney rising to the middle of a teepee-inspired clerestory ceiling covered in windows combines to lift the home skyward. Harbourwalk Hotel offers lakefront views of Racine Harbor, and sits right in the thick of Downtown Racine’s shopping and dining district.
4. Burnham – Milwaukee Wright didn’t just build custom mansions and towering workspaces – he had a dream of building homes that were affordable to the typical American family. His American System-Built Homes were a short-lived venture between 1915 and 1917, and just 16 of these models have been identified throughout the Midwest today. This home is one of six still standing on West Burnham Street and Layton Boulevard in Milwaukee, a developing area that was still considered the edge of town when the houses were built in 1915 and 1916. Tours of the Burnham home Byways 45
6. First Unitarian Society Meeting House – Madison Wright was a member of this congregation, and his preacher father was one of the founders. What has become one of the architect’s most famous commissions was also one of the closest to his heart. It was completed in 1951, just a few years before his death, and has been hailed as one of the world’s most innovative examples of church architecture, as well as a key structure defining Wright’s contributions to American culture.
are given on select weekends by trained docents, and you don’t even need a reservation. Milwaukee is a foodie’s dream, with restaurants of all styles, trends and specialties. Pop in to Leon’s Frozen Custard for the classic touch, or get your Bloody Mary fix at Sobelman’s Pub.
5. Monona Terrace – Madison Popping out of the Madison skyline, Monona Terrace frames the lake for which it was named on the eastern side of Madison’s famed isthmus. Wright envisioned that his “dream civic center” would link the shores of Lake Monona with the Wisconsin State Capitol. Though Wright first proposed the project in the 1930s, numerous setbacks meant the terrace wasn’t completed until 1997, nearly four decades after his death and 59 years after the inception of the project. Today, Monona Terrace is a popular spot for meetings and conventions, community programs and weddings, with an on-site café and gift shop full of Wright memorabilia. Located right in the heart of downtown Madison, visit the nearby State Capitol, explore the vivacious shops of State Street or stop into The Old Fashioned for a Wisconsin classic: an old fashioned. Byways 46
In addition to the original meeting house, with its pitched copper roof, deep-red concrete floor and prow of interlacing wood and glass, Taliesin Associated Architects have added two major additions, one in 1964 and one in 1990. Stay somewhere in Madison that also has a bit of history and character. Mansion Hill Inn and Livingston Inn, both beautiful bed and breakfasts, offer cozy hospitality that combines historical home with modern accommodations.
7. Taliesin and Frank Lloyd Wright Visitor Center – Spring Green For the Frank Lloyd Wright fan, nothing tops his 800-acre estate overlooking the Wisconsin River. Taliesin, which means “shining brow” – a nod to Wright’s Welsh grandparents – has been rebuilt from two fires since construction was completed in 1911, and other renovations have been ongoing since the architect’s death in 1959. Today, the Taliesin Preservation manages the grounds and offers six touring options of the estate, along with other arts and cultural educational programs and special events like a farm dinner series, biking tour and Winter Festival tours. Freddy Valentine’s Public House is a favorite for grabbing a delicious meal at the right price in nearby Spring Green. Situated in an old, renovated bank, furnishings are repurposed to offer unique décor.
8. Wyoming Valley School Cultural Arts Center – Spring Green
9. AD German Warehouse – Richland Center
Located three miles from Taliesin, Wyoming Valley School is a nonprofit organization promoting the arts and culture of the surrounding region. Designed and donated by Wright in honor of his mother, Anna Lloyd-Jones Wright, the school provides spaces for workshops, performances, lectures and exhibits for all ages. While paying homage to Wright, the school offers the necessary opportunities to bring young students and their families together in pursuit of creative education.
Completed in 1921, this four-story warehouse is probably the most notable commission Wright took on in his hometown. Once a storage place for sugar, flour, coffee, tobacco and other commodities, today it houses a gift shop, small theater and exhibit of large murals illustrating Wright’s architectural work.
Workshops in architecture, music, science and painting are some of the offerings available to engage young students and enhance arts education and creativity. Stay nearby at Round Barn Lodge, featuring country style décor. Unwind and relax with a glass of wine next to the waterfall. Or, if the whole family is tagging along, rent out Aldebaran Farm, which was the home of Wright’s uncle, James Lloyd-Jones, and renovated by Wright’s architect son-in-law William Wesley Peters.
The warehouse is notable because it’s one of the few major public buildings he designed around that time that was actually built, and it’s his best remaining example of sculptural ornamentation. A frieze of repeated cast concrete motifs encircles the top of the building. Some great eats are nearby, like Press Box and Mellem’s Fish House. Explore the history and genius of Wisconsin architect, Frank Lloyd Wright. Take to the trail anytime. You’re sure to learn new details each visit. Enhance your trip further with accommodations that have ties to Frank Lloyd Wright. https://www.travelwisconsin.com/article/architecture/ wisconsins-frank-lloyd-wright-trail
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he Iron Ore Heritage Trail along Lake Superior in Michigan has been recognized for its restoration and sustainable revitalization of former mining lands, receiving the Phoenix Award from the Society of American Travel Writers (SATW). SATW’s Phoenix Awards recognize and honor destinations that showcase responsible, sustainable tourism, including conservation; preservation; beautification and anti-pollution efforts as they relate to travel. The Iron Ore Heritage Trail extends 47 miles from the shores of Lake Superior in Marquette, Michigan, to the source of iron ore first mined in the Upper Peninsula of Michigan. The Iron Ore Heritage Trail is now a National Recreation Trail that connects the major communities in the region – three cities and seven townships – while interpreting the rich history of iron mining in the region. Byways 50
It is a multi-use, year-round trail accessible by foot and by bike. The trail was designed for walkers, bikers, runners, inline skaters, wanderers, horseback riders, people in wheelchairs, snowmobilers, history buffs, off-road vehicles, cross country skiers,
shutterbugs, and explorers. But take notice, not all of the trail is open to all users. Please see the offroad vehicles, bike, and snowmobile maps for where you can get on and ride.
through their downtowns providing the amenities trail users want and need. And it highlights the diverse environments hugging the beautiful Lake Superior shoreline,
It is also an interpretive trail that showcases the role of the iron ore mining industry to the State of Michigan and the United States.
The trail’s project re-imagined the long-abandoned mines as a tourism asset, paralleling creation of a recreation corridor with interpretation of the history of mining along the route.
Early iron mining was a messy business, leaving open pits and heaps of waste. For this reason, industrial sites are often difficult targets for restoration because of the inherent hazards of age and materials.
http://ironoreheritage.com
The Iron Ore Heritage Trail took landscapes and waterfront deeply affected by human activity and turned it into a scenic recreation destination, while restoring key elements of the industrial past that shaped the region. The trail follows mostly abandoned railroad corridors that were used to bring lumber to furnaces and forges and iron ore to the Lake Superior Harbor. It connects the largest populations in the County of Marquette and travels Byways 51
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Byways is published bi-monthly by Byways, Inc. and distributed electronically throughout North America. Byways is emailed to more than 5,000 tour operators and Travel Trade. Subscriptions are complimentary. An iPad & iPhone version is available for consumers in the App Store. An Android browser version is available at www.issuu.com/byways. Byways’ distribution includes motorcoach companies, tour operators, selected travel agents, and
other group tour travel promoters. It is also available to consumers with an interest in North American travel. For advertising rates, editorial deadlines, or to place advertising insertions, contact: Byways Magazine at 502-785-4875. ©Copyright 2021 by Byways, Inc. All rights reserved. No portion of this publication may be duplicated in any form without express written permission of the publisher.
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Charge Electric Bikes .....................................................................................................................6 Dutchess Tourism, New York .........................................................................................................2 Generac Home Standby Generator ...............................................................................................5 Jamestown-Yorktown, Virginia......................................................................................................6 Kent County Tourism, Maryland ....................................................................................................23 LeafFilter .........................................................................................................................................52
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