Byways Mountains & Valleys 2023

FeaturingNorthAmerica’sLeadingTravelDestinations

WelcometoByways annualMountainsand Valleysissue,where wetakeyouonajourneyto someofthemoststunning naturallandscapesintheUnited States.

Joinusasweexplorethe HudsonValleyandCatskills regioninNewYork,with itslushforests,rolling farmlands,andmajestic mountainrangesthat offeranunbeatable combinationofnatural beautyandoutdoor recreation.

Visitorscanexplore historictowns,and experienceworld-class artandfood.

Next,weventuretothe ShenandoahValley,a long,narrowvalley surroundedbytheBlue RidgeMountainstothe eastandtheAppalachian Mountainstothewest. It’sknownforitsrolling hills,forests,andrivers, andhometostateand nationalparks,including ShenandoahNational Park,famousforits SkylineDrive.

MovingontotheOuachitaMountains,locatedin westernArkansasandsoutheasternOklahoma,we findbreathtakingnaturalbeautyandendless recreationalopportunities.TheOuachitaMountains arehometoHotSpringsNationalPark,thenation’s oldestnationalpark,andLakeOuachita,oneofthe mostbeautifullakesintheUnitedStates.

Byways4

Preview

ByStephenKirchner,Editor&Publisher

TheColoradoPlateau,characterizedbyitshigh elevation,aridclimate,anddiversetopography,is hometosomeofthemostspectacularandunique landscapesinNorthAmerica,includingArches NationalPark,CanyonlandsNationalPark,andMesa VerdeNationalPark,allofwhichweexploreinthis issue.

Finally,wejourneytotheNapaValley,oneofthe world’spremierwineregions.Withmorethan400 wineries,Napa Valleyisknown foritsprized Cabernet Sauvignon,but it’salsohometo manyworld-class artgalleriesand museums showcasingthe worksofboth establishedand emerging contemporary artists.

Inhiscolumn, BillGravestakes ustoTucson, wherehe discoversskiing atMount Lemmonand visitsthe magnificent MissionSan XavierdelBac.

WealsoexploretheAlcatrazEastCrimeMuseumin PigeonForgeinthe What’sHappening section.Wait, IthoughtAlcatrazwasinSanFranciscoBay?

Sositback,relax,andenjoythisissueofBywaysas wetakeyouonajourneythroughsomeofthemost beautifulmountainsandvalleysinthecountry.

Byways8

Byways10

Byways12

NestledintheheartofNewYorkState,the HudsonValleyandCatskillsofferanescape intoaworldofbreathtakingnaturalbeauty andculturalrichness.Whetheryou’reafanof outdooradventuresorprefertosoakuptheregion’s richhistory,thereissomethingforeveryoneinthese stunningareas.

Withitslushforests,rollingfarmlands,andmajestic mountainranges,theHudsonValleyandCatskills offeranunbeatablecombinationofnaturalbeauty andoutdoorrecreation.Fromcampingandhikingto skiingandsnowboarding,theseareasofNewYork Stateofferadiversearrayofoutdooractivitiesforall typesofvisitors.Whetheryou’relookingfora

Byways14

TheHudsonValleyandCatskillsarehometosome ofthemostspectacularlandscapesintheworld.The sweepingvistasoftheTaconicMountainsprovidea breathtakingbackdropforoutdooractivities,while thelushforestsoftheCatskillsareperfectfor camping,hiking,andwildlifeviewing.The picturesquevillagesoftheHudsonValleyoffera uniqueblendofhistoricattractionsandmodern amenities,makingthemtheperfectdestinationfor yourgetaway.

relaxingweekendawayoranoutdooradventure,the HudsonValleyandCatskillshaveitall.

HudsonValley

Oneofthemostpopularattractionsin theHudsonValleyistheHudsonRiver. Theriverisakeyfeatureofthevalley, anditoffersavarietyofactivitiesfor visitors.Visitorscantakeascenicboat tour,gofishingorkayaking,orsimply enjoytheviewsfromoneofthemany riversideparks.TheHudsonRiveralso offersanabundanceofopportunitiesfor birdwatching,asitishometoawide varietyofbirdspecies.

Anotherpopularattractionisthe valley’smanystateparksandnature

preserves.Theseparksoffervisitorstheopportunity toexplorethevalley’snaturalbeautyandtoenjoya widevarietyofoutdoorrecreationalactivities.The WalkwayOvertheHudson,thelongestelevated pedestrianbridgeintheworld,givesvisitorsabird’s eyeviewoftheHudsonRiveranditsmany tributaries,whiletheMinnewaskaStatePark Preserveoffershiking,rockclimbing,andeveniceclimbinginthewinter.

Art&Culture

TheHudsonValleyisalsohometoarichcultural scene.Theregionishometomanymuseumsand historicsites,includingthetheFDRPresidential LibraryandMuseumwhichoffersafascinatinglook intothelifeandlegacyofthe32ndU.S.President.

FranklinD.Rooseveltlivedinhisfamilyhomein HydePark,overlookingtheHudsonRiver.His family’shomeisnowtheHomeofFranklinD. RooseveltNationalHistoricSite,managedbythe NationalParkService.

OthersitesincludetheVanderbiltMansionNational HistoricSite,andtheCulinaryInstituteofAmerica. VisitorscanalsoexplorehistoricHudsonRiver towns,suchasKingston,Poughkeepsie,andHudson, whichareknownfortheircharmingarchitecture, shops,andrestaurants.TheHudsonValleyalsooffers visitorstheopportunitytoexperiencetheregion’s world-classart.

Theareaishometoseveralartmuseumsand galleries,suchastheDia:Beacon,theHudsonRiver Museum,andtheStormKingArtCenter.

Inaddition,theHudsonValleyisalsohometo severalperformingarts venues,suchasthe Bardavon1869Opera HouseandtheBethel WoodsCenterfortheArts.

TheHudsonValleyisalso knownforitsgreatfood anddrink.Theregionis hometomanyfarm-totablerestaurantsandis famousforitslocal produce,includingapples, berries,andgrapes.The regionisalsohometo manywineries,andvisitors cantaketoursandtastings atthesewineries.Visitors canalsofindmanycraft breweriesanddistilleriesin thearea,offeringavariety oflocalbeers,ciders,and spirits.

Byways16

Forthoselookingforamorelaid-backvacation,the HudsonValleyalsooffersseveralspasandwellness centers.Visitorscanindulgeinavarietyofspa treatments,yogaclasses,andotherwellness activities.Theregionisalsohometobedand

breakfastsandinns,providingvisitorswitha comfortableandrelaxingplacetostay.

TheHudsonValleyisanexcellentdestinationfor everyonefromtourgroupstofamilies.Theareahasa varietyofactivitiesand attractionsthatwillkeepkids entertained,suchasamusement parks,museums,andnature centers.Theregionisalsohome toseveralfestivalsandevents throughouttheyear,whichare enjoyedbytravelersofallages. TheseincludetheApple Festival,theHudsonValley WineandFoodFest,andthe HudsonValleyGarlicFestival.

TheHudsonValleyisadiverse andbeautifulvacation destinationthatofferssomething thateveryonecanenjoy.Visitors canenjoyoutdoorrecreational

Byways18

activities,explorehistorictowns,andexperience world-classartandfood.Whetheryou'relookingfor arelaxinggetawayoranaction-packedadventure, theHudsonValleyhassomethingforyou.

TheCatskillMountains

TheCatskillMountainsofNewYorkareabeautiful anduniquedestinationthatofferawiderangeof attractionsandactivitiesfortravelers.Fromhiking andcampingtoskiingandsnowshoeing, thereissomethingforeveryone.The Catskillsarealsohometocharming towns,picturesquefarmsandsprawling forests.

Visitorscanalsotakeadvantageofthe nearbycitiesandtakeintheculture, diningandshopping.It’sanidealplace foranoutdooradventure,withthe unparalleledbeautyofthemountains providingaperfectbackdrop.The Catskillsareagreatgetawayforanyone lookingforanescapefromthehustleand bustleofeverydaylife.

Theregionhasarichculturalhistory, andwashometosomeofthefirstsettlers intheregion.Itisalsoknownforbeing

Byways20

thebirthplaceoftheiconicrockmusicfestival, Woodstock.Theevent,whichwasheldin1969,was oneofthemostfamousmusicfestivalsinhistoryand attractedhundredsofthousandsofpeoplefrom aroundtheworld.

Thefieldandthestagearearemainpreservedandare opentovisitorsaspartoftheBethelWoodsCenter fortheArts.

TheSullivanCatskillsDoveTrail©commemorates the50thanniversaryofthe1969Woodstockfestival andcelebratesitsimpactonSullivanCatskills.It’sa collectionof50dovesculpturesperchedinvillages, towns,andatseveraltourismbusinesses.Each permanentlymounteddoveishand-paintedbya professionallocalartistandinspiredbythelegendary eventheldherein1969.

TheCatskillsremainsapopulardestinationfor touristsandlocalsalike.Visitorscanexplorethe region’shistoryandcultureattheWoodstock Museum,enjoylivemusicatvenuessuchasthe BearsvilleTheater,andexplorethemanyartgalleries andshopsinthearea.Therearealsomanyoutdoor activities,suchascanoeing,kayaking,andfishing, forthoselookingforamoreadventurousexperience.

FromtheWalnutMountainParktotheMuseumat BethelWoods,thereissomethingforeveryoneto enjoy.Ifyouarelookingforamoreunique experience,youcanvisittheFortDelawareMuseum ofColonialHistoryortheCatskillFlyFishingCenter andMuseum,bothofwhichofferaglimpseintothe past.

Forthoselookingforanoutdooradventure,theIce Caves,MysterylandUSA,ShoholaFalls,and CunninghamFamilyFarmsofferavarietyof activitiestokeepyouentertained.

Forthoselookingforamorerelaxedexperience,the HudsonValleyandCatskillsofferplentyofcharming bedandbreakfasts,quaintinns,andcozyrestaurants. Thearea’smanyvineyardsandcraftbreweries provideatasteoftheregion’suniquecultureand flavors,whilethemanyantiqueshops,galleries,and farmersmarketsofferplentyofuniquesouvenirsand localspecialties.

TheHudsonValleyandCatskillsprovidean unforgettableexperienceforvisitorsofallagesand interests.Withitsstunningnaturalbeautyandendless opportunitiesforadventure,it'seasytoseewhythis areaofNewYorkStateisapopulardestinationfor travelers.

https://dutchesstourism.com/grouptours

https://sullivancatskills.com

Byways22

TheShenandoahValleyofVirginiaisanidyllic spotthatofferstouristsawideselectionof outdooractivities,traditionalregionalfare,and delightfulsmalltownstoexplore.Whetherfora weekendvacationoranextendedstay,theValleyhas somethingforeveryone.

LocatedinthewesternpartofVirginiaandthe easternmostpartofWestVirginia,theValleyisa long,narrowareaboundedbytheBlueRidge MountainstotheeastandtheAppalachian Mountainstothewest.Itisrenownedforitsnatural beauty,withrollinghills,woodlands,andstreams.

TheShenandoahValleyhasalongpast,withallofits NativeAmerican,European,andAfricanAmerican backgroundsplayingaroleinshapingtheregion.In theCivilWar,theValleywasthesiteofseveral significantbattles,suchastheBattleofCedarCreek. Duringthe19thandearly20thcenturies,theValley wasamajoragriculturalarea,producingcropssuch aswheat,corn,andtobacco.Today,theShenandoah

Byways24

Valleyishometoavarietyofindustries,including agriculture,tourism,andmanufacturing.

Theregionhasanumberofsmallcitiesandtowns, includingWinchester,Harrisonburg,andStaunton. Thisareaalsohasmanystateandnationalparks, suchastheShenandoahNationalPark,whichis situatedalongtheeasternedgeoftheBlueRidge MountainsandishometotherenownedSkyline Drive.

TheShenandoahValleyisatopdestinationfor outdoorenthusiasts,withopportunitiesforactivities suchashiking,biking,fishing,andcamping.

ShenandoahNationalParkisoneofthemaindraws oftheValley.Ithascloseto200,000acresof wilderness,withbreathtakingviewsofthemountains andvalleysthatcanbeseenfromtheSkylineDrive. Theparkisalsohometoavarietyofhikingtrails, includingthewell-knownAppalachianTrail,which runsthroughtheparkforabout100miles.

TheShenandoahValleyprovidesa uniqueperspectiveofthe AmericanCivilWar,withsoldiers wearingblueclashingwiththose ingreyunderthedirectionof Jackson,Early,Gordon,Sheridan, Banks,andCuster.Thisresultedin morethan325military engagements,14battles,three yearsofbloodycampaigns,and almost4000livesthatwerelost. TheValley’sgeographyand abundanceofagriculturalproducts madeitessentialforbothsides duringtheCivilWar,and numerousmilitarycampaignswere conductedhere.

Winchester

ThecityofWinchester,thecounty seatofFrederickCounty,hasa populationofaround27,000.Itis renownedforitshistoricsitesandarchitecture,as wellasitsoutdoorrecreationalactivities.Winchester issituatedinthenorthernpartoftheShenandoah Valley,withtheBlueRidgeMountainstotheeast

andtheAppalachianMountainstothewest.Ithasa numberofhistoricalsitesandattractions,suchasthe OldCourtHouseCivilWarMuseumandthe MuseumoftheShenandoahValley.

ShenandoahCounty

ShenandoahCounty,withapopulationof approximately41,000,consistsofsmalltownsand villageslikeEdinburg,MountJackson,andNew Market.

ItscountyseatisWoodstock.Itsnamecomesfrom theShenandoahRiverthatrunsthroughit.During theCivilWar,manybattlestookplacehere, includingtheBattleofCedarCreek.

Today,ShenandoahCountyisa combinationofagriculturaland industrialareas,withaconcentrationon tourism.Thecountyhasafewwineries andotherattractions,soitisapopular destinationfortourists.

ThetownofNewMarketwasfounded intheearly19thcentury,anditwasthe siteoftheBattleofNewMarketin 1864.Thetownhasmanyhistoricalsites andattractions,suchastheNewMarket BattlefieldStateHistoricalParkandthe HallofValorCivilWarMuseum.

ShenandoahCaverns,aseriesof undergroundcaves,isanotherpopular touristspotinthearea.

Byways26

ThecityofLurayisthecountyseatofPageCounty andhasapopulationofaround5,000.Lurayisinthe shadowoftheBlueRidgeMountainsandis surroundedbyforests,rivers,andstreams.

Itisapopulardestinationforthoseinterestedinthe outdoors,withtheShenandoahNationalParkand GeorgeWashingtonNationalForestnearby.In additiontoitsnaturalbeauty,Lurayhasseveral historicalsitesandattractions,suchastheLuray CavernsandthePageCountyHeritageCenter.

Luray

Harrisonburg

ThecityofHarrisonburg,inthecentralpartofthe ShenandoahValley,wasnamedafterThomas Harrison,adistinguishedlocallandowner.Itishome toavarietyofacademicinstitutions,includingJames MadisonUniversity,withastudent populationofalmost22,000.Thecity alsohassomesmallbusinessesandisa hubforagriculture,manufacturing,and tourism.

Staunton

StauntonislocatedinAugustaCounty, andhasapopulationof24,000.Itis knownforitslonghistoryandstunning architecture,havingbeenfoundedinthe late18thcenturyandnamedafterLady RebeccaStaunton,thewifeofthe town’sfounder.Situatedinthecentral ShenandoahValley,Stauntonishometo numeroushistoricalattractions,suchas theWoodrowWilsonPresidential LibraryandMuseum,whichoffers insightintothelifeandpresidencyof the28thPresidentoftheUnitedStates. Furthermore,theManseisthe birthplaceofWoodrowWilson.

Byways28

TheFrontierCultureMuseumisanothernotable pointofinterest,asitisanopen-airmuseumthat exhibitsfarmsanddwellingsfromEurope,showing thesettlementoftheShenandoahValley. Additionally,theAmericanShakespeareCenter

providesarecreationoftheoriginalBlackfriars Playhouse,presentingShakespeare’splays.

Lexington

Lexington,inRockbridgeCounty,hasapopulation ofaround7,000.Itsfoundationdatesback tothelate18thcentury,withthecitybeing namedafterLexingtonGreen,theplace wherethefirstshotsoftheAmerican RevolutionaryWarwerefired.

ItissituatedinthesouthernShenandoah Valley.Lexington’sattractionsincludethe StonewallJacksonHouse,whichwasthe homeoftheConfederateGeneralThomas “Stonewall”JacksonduringtheCivilWar, andWashingtonandLeeUniversity,a prestigiousprivateuniversity,aswellasthe VirginiaMilitaryInstitute(VMI).

TheShenandoahValleyofVirginiaoffers anarrayofactivitiesfornatureandhistory enthusiastsalike,suchashiking,fishing, andkayaking,aswellasvisitingCivilWar

sites,artgalleries,andlocalvineyards.Thereisan endlessamountofthingstodoandexperiencein thesesmalltowns.

https://visitshenandoah.org

Byways30

Lookingforanexcitingadventureintheheartof America?LooknofurtherthantheOuachita Mountains!(pronouncedWa-Chi-Ta)Located inwesternArkansasandsoutheasternOklahoma, thesemountainsofferbreathtakingnaturalbeauty andendlessrecreationalopportunities.

TheOuachitaMountainswereformedbyathickfold oftheearth’scrustandareapproximately225miles long.Theyarecharacterizedbyrolling,rockyterrain andpine-coveredhills,andarehometonumerous rareplantsandanimals.Butdon’tlettherugged landscapefoolyou;thereareplentyofrecreational activitiestoenjoyhere,fromhikingandcampingto fishingandmountainbiking.

Therangeissteepedinhistory,too.Namedafterthe Ouachitatribe,themountainswerefirstexploredby HernandodeSotoin1541.Later,in1804,President JeffersonsentWilliamDunbarandDr.George HuntertosurveytheareaaftertheLouisiana Purchase.TheCivilWarBattleofDevil’sBackbone wasfoughtattheridgeofthesamenamein1863.

Byways32

Butperhapsthemostimpressivefeatureofthe OuachitaMountainsistheOuachitaNational RecreationTrail,a223-mile-longhikingtrailthat runsfromTalimenaStateParkinOklahomato PinnacleMountainStateParknearLittleRock.This premiertrailiswellmaintainedandperfectfor hikers,backpackers,andmountainbikers.

HotSpringsNationalPark

HotSpringsNationalParkisadjacenttothecityof HotSprings,Arkansas.Itisknownforits47thermal springs,andisthenation’soldestnationalpark, predatingYellowstoneby40years.Itcoversabout9 squaremilesandliesattheeasternedgeofthe OuachitaMountains.

FeaturesoftheparkincludeBathhouseRow,theHot SpringsMountainTower,26milesofhikingtrails, scenicdrives,andbreathtakingvistas.Itishometo thefamousthermalsprings,whichcontainhigh levelsofmineralssuchascalciumandsulfate. Soakinginthethermalspringsisapopularactivity.

Byways33

TheparkincludesportionsofdowntownHot Springs,makingitoneofthemostaccessible nationalparks.Therearenumeroushikingtrailsand campingareas.Bathinginspringwaterisavailablein approvedfacilitiesatextracost.Theentire BathhouseRowareaisdesignatedasaNational HistoricLandmarkDistrict;itcontainsthegrandest collectionofbathhousesofitskindinNorth America,includingmanyoutstandingexamplesof GildedAgearchitecture.TheRow’sFordyce Bathhouseservesasthe park’svisitorcenter.

Finally,besuretovisit LakeOuachita,thelargest lakecompletelyin Arkansas.This40,100acreman-madelakeis locatedintheOuachita NationalForestandis knownforitspristine watersandstunning sceneryandisoneofthe mostbeautifullakesinthe UnitedStates.Fishingis popularhere,with excellentbassandtrophy stripedbasstobefound. Andifyou’reupfora scenicdrive,theTalimena ScenicDrivetraverses54 milesofWindingStair

Byways34

andRichMountains,offeringbreathtakingviewsof thesurroundinglandscape.

PlanyourvisittotheOuachitaMountainsand experiencethenaturalbeautyandexcitementofthis stunningdestination.

OklahomaTourism&Recreation

ArkansasStateParks

TravelingtheHighways&Byways withBillGraves T

ucsonclaimstohave 3,800hoursof sunshineayear. That’sanaverage. Countingitanotherway, 350daysoutof365–more sunnydaysthenanycityin thecountry.Asforrain: let’sjustsaythatmoisture lostthroughevaporation surpassestheamountof rainfalltheygetinthishigh desertvalleyofsouth centralArizona.Obviously, sunshineanddryairrightly placeTucsononthelistofthoseseekingsunshine–especiallythoseseekingitinthewinter.

Well,Iamheretotellya,thislastdayofwinter,it’s hailinginTucsonandit’scold.AndneedIsaythere isnosun?Theweathermanontheall-newsstation soundsdelightedashewarnsoffrosttonight.

Arizona’sLastDayofWinter

Reportingnothingbuttemperaturesdayafterday, andusuallythesameones,probablygetsprettyold.

HesaysthatMountLemmonisnowburiedina blizzard.It’sat9,000feetintheSantaCatalina Mountainsnorthoftown,andhasthedistinctionof beingthesouthernmostskiareaintheUnitedStates. Sotheyareusedtosnowupthere.Still,itisgreatto bearoundondaysthatmaketherecord-books,even ifIamjustpassingthrough.

Andthat’swhatIamdoing,skirtingArizona’s secondlargestcity.Atonetimeitwasoneofthe oldestsettlementsinourcountry.TheSpanish,the Mexicans,andeventheConfederatearmyhave controlledTucson,onceknowasthe“OldPueblo”. MexicoshookofftheSpanishherein1821.The AmericansfoughttheirwayinduringtheMexican Warin1846.

TheMormonsbuiltawagonroadfromhereto CaliforniathatwastheRoute66ofthemid-1800s.It wasusedbythousandsofhomesteadersandminers duringtheCaliforniagoldrush.Disputesoverrightof-wayalongthatwagon-roadcorridor–laterthe routeoftheSouthernPacificRailroad–promptedthe UnitedStatestobuythelandfromMexico:the GadsdenPurchaseof1853.ThisaddedTucson,and itsenvirons,totherestoftheArizonaTerritory, whichisprettymuchasweknowthestatetoday.

OverlandstageservicetoSanDiegofromSan Antonio,Texasbeganin1857,anditcameright throughhere.Thatputthe“OldPueblo”inevery travelagent’snotebookasanover-nightstopalong thisnewroutetoCalifornia.

Forayearorso,theCivilWarinterruptedtravel throughtheArizonaTerritory,ofwhichTucsonwas thecapitaluntil1877.Twoyearslatertherailroad arrivedandthe“OldPueblo”relinquishedforeverits imageasanoutpost.

Tucsonenteredthe20thcenturyasArizona’slargest city.Itremainedthatuntil1920,whenPhoenix surpassedit.Somuchfortheolddays.

Rightnow,hailcontinuesbouncingeverywhereand isaccumulatingasawhitesheetalongtheshoulder oftheinterstate.ItsoundslikeBBshittingmy aluminumroof,makingenoughnoisetowakeRusty.

Herheadcomesoffthearmrest.Herearsarchand hereyesscantheoverhead.Afteraminuteorso,she learnswhatsheneedstoandsettlesback.

TheexitsignforMiracleMilesweepsbyoverhead. Concretewallssupportingitsoverpassaredecorated withpermanentmuralsoftile.Irememberasakid, growingup50yearsagoinfarawayMinnesota, hearingsomethingaboutTucson’sMiracleMile.But whatwasit?

Iwastoldlater,whenIstoppedforgas,thatMiracle Miletodayissimplyamulti-laneroadlinedwithold motels.That’sit,ofcourse–themotels.

Itwasnotjustthatthemotelswerenewand numerous;itwasthewholemotelconcept,itwas revolutionary.Eventhewordwasnewlyfashioned–halfMOtorandhalfhoTEL.Agerminating subculture,America’smotoringpublic,wanted modern,convenient,overnightaccommodations. Hotelsgavethemluxuriesandstuffyformalitiesthat travelingfamiliesdidnotneedorwanttopayfor, plustheywereusuallyalongwayoffthehighway.

Clustersoftouristcabins,whichwerelocated convenientlyatroadside,becamepopularinthe 1930sand40s.Theywerefunctionalandright whereweneededthem.Buttheyweretoo functional,toomuchlikeacampoutforweary travelerswhostillwantedafewhotelamenities.

Thestepfromtouristcabinstomotels,forthe innkeepersofAmerica,wasaneasyone.Therestis history–theall-Americabrandofingenuityand progress.Andwithoutevenstoppingtolookitup, that’sthestoryofMiracleMile.Atleastitwilldo fornow.

Whileweareonthesubject:Thereisalwaysa downsidetothebusinessman’smaximofgivingthe publicwhatitwants.Asadirectconsequenceofthe motelrevolution,smalltownsdon’thavehotels anymore.Someofthemwereclassic,evengrand, termsthatyouwillneverhearusedtodescribea motel.

Theroadisnowclearahead.Thehaildidnotlast butafewminutes.ItransferredfromI-10toI-19, knownhereastheCaminoDeLosPadres.I-19ends inMexico:65milessouthatNogales.Butsigns don’ttellyouthat.Distancesalonghereare measuredandsignedinkilometers.Evenmilemarkersareinkilometers.Why?Thistime,Iwon’t evenguess.Imadeamentalnotetofindout.Later, IcalledtheGovernor’sofficetogettheanswer.

Itseemsthatthekilometersignsaretherelicsofan experiment.Itwasinthe1970sthatsome Washingtonbureaucratsgotthebugtoswitchthe markersontheinterstatehighwaysystemfrommiles tokilometers.Rememberthosesigns?Itnever caughtonandthekilometersignsarelonggone, exceptalongthisstretchofhighwayinArizona. SinceI-19isuniqueasprobablytheshortestofall theinterstates,itisappropriatethatitissignedwith somethingequallyuniqueanddistinctive–likea scrapofnostalgia.

SouthofTucsonabout10miles,Isaw “TheWhiteDoveoftheDesert”–the magnificentMissionSanXavierdel Bac.Itisclearlyvisiblefromthe highway,setagainstthechestnut coloredhillsoftheTohonoO’odham IndianReservation.Infact,the mission’stwo,brilliantlywhitetowers appeartojumpoutfromtheirbucolic surroundingintheSantaCruzValley. Itdrewmelikeamagnet,asithad drawntravelersforovertwocenturies.

Waterhadcollectedinlargepoolsin theparkinglotinfrontofthemission, butthedarkcloudsweregone.Itwas asiftherainmakersoftheIndiantribes, onthis,theirancestralland,hadsanctionedmyvisit. AwarmsunbrokethroughasIlookedforadryspot topark.IknewthatRustywouldwanttogetoutof themotorhome.Sheisnotgoodatwipingherfeet whenshegetsbackin.

SanXavierisamongthelastSpanishmissionsstill servingitsNativeAmericanparishioners,andoneof theoldestchurchesinthecountry.Thoughfounded asamissionbytheJesuitsbefore1700,the Franciscansbuiltthepresentstructureduring14 yearsofintermittentlaborbetween1783-97.Itis constructedasaseriesofarchesanddomes.Woodis usedonlyinwindowsanddoorframes.Interiorwall andceilingsurfacehaverecentlygonethroughafiveyearrestorationanddisplaytheintricateworkoffine artists.

Enteringthedimlylitsanctuaryisanexperiencethat ishardtodescribe.Peoplewerequietlymoving about.Theyseemabsorbedintheirownthoughts. MaybetheyfeltasIdid–adetachmentfromthe outsideworld.Itwasacomfortablefeelingof serenityandquietude.ItcameovermetheinstantI entered.Acouplehundredyearsofsoulsinworship mustdothattoaplace.

Abouttheauthor: Afterseeingmuchoftheworld asacareernavalofficer,BillGravesdecided,afterhe retired,totakeacloserlookattheUnitedStates.He hasbeenroamingthecountryfor20years,muchofit inamotorhomewithhisdogRusty.Helivesin RanchoPalosVerdes,Californiaandistheauthorof OntheBackRoads,DiscoveringSmallTownsof America.

Hecanbereachedat Roadscribe@aol.com

Byways38

Byways40

TheColoradoPlateauisaregionlocatedinthe southwesternUnitedStatesthatencompasses partsofArizona,Colorado,NewMexico,and Utah.Characterizedbyitshighelevation,arid climate,anddiversetopography,theColorado Plateauishometosomeofthemostspectacularand uniquelandscapesinNorthAmerica.

TheColoradoPlateauhasalongandrichhistory datingbackmillionsofyears.Itwasoncehometo vastshallowseas,whichleftbehindsedimentary rockformationsthatcanbeseentodayintheregion’s manycanyonsandcliffs.

Itslandscapefeaturesmountains,canyons,plateaus, andothergeologicalwonders.Theregionisalso hometomanyancientcultures,includingtheHopi, Navajo,andPueblopeoples,whohavelivedinthe regionforthousandsofyears.

Inthe19thcentury,Europeansettlersbeganto exploreandsettletheColoradoPlateau,bringing withthemarangeofnewtechnologiesandcultural practices.Inthe20thcentury,theregionbecamea populartouristdestination,withmanypeopledrawn toitsnaturalbeautyandrichculturalhistory.

Byways42

Itishometoanumberofnationalparksand monuments,includingArchesNationalPark, CanyonlandsNationalPark,andMesaVerde NationalPark.Theseparksoffervisitorsthechance toexplorethearea’sstunninglandscapesandlearn abouttheregion’slongandfascinatinghistory.

ArchesNationalPark

ArchesNationalParkislocatedineasternUtah.The parkcoversanareaof76,518acresandis internationallyknownforitsnamesakearchesand stunningredrockscenery.Itishometoover2,000 naturalstonearches,hundredsofsoaringpinnacles, massiverockfins,andgiantbalancedrocks.

ArchesNationalParkisalsohometoavarietyof plantandanimallife,includingcactus,yucca,and pinyonpinetrees,aswellasmuledeer,rattlesnakes, anddesertbighornsheep.Theparkalsohasmany speciesofbirds,includingperegrinefalcons,golden eagles,andcanyonwrens.

Thepark’sredrockformationsaretheresultof millionsofyearsoferosionandthemovementof tectonicplates.Thearchesthemselvesareformedby theweatheringofsandstone,whichissofterthanthe surroundingrockandmorepronetoerosion.

ThereareavarietyofactivitiestoenjoyinArches NationalPark,includinghiking,rockclimbing,and photography.Theparkalsohasanumberofrangerledprograms,includingguidedhikesandgeology talks.

ArchesNationalParkhasover1.5millionvisitors eachyear.Itisopenyear-round,althoughsomeareas maybeclosedduetoadverseweatherconditions. Visitorscanenjoybiking,camping,rockclimbing, andhiking.TheentranceofArchesislocated5miles northofMoab,alonghighway191.Theparkisopen 24hoursaday,365daysayear.Thevisitorcenter hoursvarybyseason.

CanyonlandsNationalPark

CanyonlandsNationalParkislocatedinsoutheastern Utah.Itisknownforitsruggedandcolorful landscape,whichincludescanyons,cliffs,mesas, pinyonpine,juniper,andsagebrush.

Theparkcoversover337,000acresandisdivided intofourdistricts:theIslandintheSky,theNeedles, theMaze,andtheRiversandRiparianareas.

CanyonlandsNationalParkishometoavarietyof plantandanimallife,includingmuledeer,mountain lions,rattlesnakes,aswellasbirdssuchasgolden eagles,peregrinefalcons,andcanyonwrens.The park’slandscapewasformedovermillionsofyears bytheerosionoftheColoradoPlateau,whichis composedofsedimentaryrock.Thecanyonsand cliffsintheparkaretheresultoftheerosionofthese rocksbywaterandwind.

Thereareavarietyofactivitiestoenjoyin CanyonlandsNationalPark,includinghiking,rock climbing,photography,andranger-ledprogramssuch asguidedhikesandgeologytalks.Canyonlands NationalParkisapopulartouristdestination,with over700,000visitorseachyear.Itisopenyearround,althoughsomeareasmaybecloseddueto adverseweatherconditions.

MesaVerdeNationalPark

MesaVerdeNationalParkisastunningandhistoric nationalparklocatedinsouthwesternColorado.Itis knownforitswell-preservedAncestralPuebloancliff dwellings,whichwerebuiltbytheindigenouspeople

wholivedintheregionover700yearsago.Thepark coversover52,000acresandislocatednearthetown ofCortez.

MesaVerdeNationalParkisahavenforavarietyof plantandanimallife,includingpinyonpine,juniper, andsagebrush,aswellasmuledeer,mountainlions, andrattlesnakes.Theparkisalsohometoanumber ofbirds,suchasgoldeneagles, peregrinefalcons,andcanyon wrens.

TheAncestralPuebloancliff dwellingsinMesaVerdeNational Parkaresomeofthemost impressiveandbest-preserved examplesofancientNative AmericanarchitectureintheUnited States.Thesedwellingswerebuilt intothecliffsandservedasboth livingandstoragespaces.Thepark alsocontainsanumberofother ancientstructures,includingpit houses,kivas,andtowers.

Visitorstotheparkcanenjoya varietyofactivities,suchashiking, rockclimbing,andphotography. Theparkalsohasanumberof ranger-ledprograms,suchasguided

hikesandculturaltalks.Forthoselookingfora uniqueandunforgettableexperience,MesaVerde NationalParkistheperfectdestination.

Morethan600,000touristsvisitMesaVerdeNational Parkeachyear.Theparkisopenyear-round, althoughsomeareasmaybeclosedduetoadverse weatherconditions.

TheNapaValleyisnestledinthemountainsof NorthernCaliforniaaboutanhournorthofSan Francisco.Thevalleyisknownforitsarrayof wineries,vineyards,andtastingrooms.

However,thisvalleyofferssomuchmorethanjust winetasting.Onceyoutakethetimetoexplorethe area,you’llfallinloveit!TheNapaValleyishome tosomeofthebesthiddengemsinallofCalifornia. Herearethetopreasonswhyyoushouldvisitthis beautifulvalleyduringanytriptotheGoldenState.

It’sTheWineCountry

Withmorethan400wineries,NapaValleyisknown foritsprizedCabernetSauvignonandisoneofthe world’spremierwineregions.Themajorcitiesinthe NapaValleyregionincludeNapa,Yountville,St. Helena,andCalistoga.

NapaValleyhasalongandstoriedhistoryin winemaking.Theregionwasfirstsettledby

Byways48

Europeanimmigrantsintheearly19thcentury,and winegrapeswerefirstplantedintheregioninthe 1840s.NapaValleygainedinternationalrecognition inthe1970sand1980s,andtodayitishometomore than400wineries.

VisitingtheNapaValleyisliketravelingbackintime tomedievalEurope.Therollinghillsandvineyards createamagicalatmosphere.Thisisalsoagreat placetovisitinthefall.Thecolorchangeisstunning andtheweatherismuchwarmerandmore comfortable.

Theregionisknownforproducinghigh-quality wines.AmongNapaValley’sleadingwineriesare:

RobertMondaviWinery:FoundedbyRobert Mondaviin1966,thiswineryisknownforits CabernetSauvignonandChardonnay.Thewinery offersavarietyoftastingexperiences,includinga tourofthewinemakingfacility.

CakebreadCellars:Located intheRutherfordarea, CakebreadCellarsisknown foritsChardonnayand

CabernetSauvignon.The wineryoffersavarietyof tastingexperiences,including areservetastingandatourof thewinemakingfacility.

SilverOakCellars:Founded in1972,SilverOakCellarsis knownforitsCabernet Sauvignon.Thewineryoffers avarietyoftasting experiences,includingatour ofthewinemakingfacility.

Stags’LeapWinery:Located intheStagsLeapDistrict,Stags’Leapisknownfor itsCabernetSauvignonandChardonnay.Thewinery offersavarietyoftastingexperiences,includinga reservetastingandatourofthewinemakingfacility.

ChateauMontelena:LocatedinCalistoga,Chateau MontelenaisknownforitsCabernetSauvignonand Chardonnay.Thewineryoffersavarietyoftasting experiences,includingareservetastingandatourof thewinemakingfacility.

BeautifulSceneryandMild Temperatures

TheregionislocatedinthenorthernpartoftheSan FranciscoBayAreaandisknownforitspicturesque rollinghills,oak-studdedvalleys,andcharming towns.Youcanfindmanybreathtakingviewsinthe valley,andyou’llalsofindplentyofparkstovisit. VineyardsareprotectedfromtheCentralValley’s intenseheatintheeastbytheVacaMountainsand

fromthePacificOcean’scoolermarineinfluencesin thewestbytheMayacamasMountains.

Thearea’stopographyhasmanydipsandpeaks, rangingfromsea-levelvalleyfloorstomountain vineyardswithelevationsthatriseupover2,000feet. Thereisextraordinarydiversityintheregion’ssoils withmorethan100differentmaritime,volcanic,and alluvialsoilvariations.Theregion’sclimatezoneis Mediterranean,withlong,hot,anddrysummerdays andcoolevenings.Wintersaretypicallymildwith rainfall.Springistemperatewitharainyperiodearly intheseason.

Fornaturelovers,thevalleyoffersplentyofoutdoor activities.Fromhikingandbikingtokayakingand hotairballoonrides,there’snoshortageofwaysto explorethearea’sstunningscenery.Plus,thevalley ishometoavarietyofparksandgardensthatoffer visitorsachancetorelaxandtakeinthemajestic views.

ArtScene,RestaurantsandShops

NapaValleyishometomanyworld-classart galleriesandmuseumsshowcasingtheworksofboth establishedandemergingcontemporaryartists.The diRosaCenterforContemporaryArtisamust-see,

Byways50

housingworksbysomeofthemostnoted contemporaryartistsinthecountry.TheHess Collection,MummNapa,GordonHuetherStudio, andQuentCordairFineArtaresomeoftheotherart galleriesintheregion.

Asidefromgreatwine,thevalleyoffersawealthof culinaryexperiences.Fromfarm-to-tablecuisineto cookingclassesandchef-preparedmeals,there’s somethingforfoodiesofalltastes.Plus,thevalleyis hometo1878Victorianestate-turned-tastingrooms, manyofwhichfeatureworksofart,photographs,and murals.

HiddenGem

Nomatterwhatkindofexperienceyou’relooking for,you’resuretofinditintheNapaValley.Withits world-classwines,luxuriousresorts,culinary experiences,andoutdooractivities,thevalleyistruly ahiddengem.

https://www.visitnapavalley.com

TheAlcatrazEastCrimeMuseuminPigeon Forge,Tennesseeoffersanimmersiveand educationalexperiencethatshowcasesthe historyandevolutionofAmericancrimeandlaw enforcement.

Themuseumishometoavarietyof exhibitsthathighlightinfamouscrimesand notoriouscriminals,artifacts,and interactiveexhibitsthatallowvisitorsto learnaboutthecriminaljusticesystem, weaponsandinstrumentsofcrime,andthe historyoflawenforcement.

Oneofthemostpopularsectionsofthe museumisthesectionthatfeaturesartifacts andmemorabiliarelatedtofamouscrimes andinfamouscriminals.Visitorscansee itemssuchasJohnDillinger’sdeathmask, AlCapone’srosarybeads,andTedBundy’s VWBeetle,amongothers.Theseartifacts provideauniqueopportunityforvisitorsto connectwiththehistoryofcrimeandits impactonsociety.

Byways52

Anotherpopularexhibitistheinteractivesection, whichallowsvisitorstoexperiencethecriminal justicesystemfirsthand.Visitorscanparticipateina simulatedforensiclab,wheretheycanlearnabout thesciencebehindcrimesceneinvestigationand

DNAanalysis.Theycanalsoexperiencewhatit’s liketobeinprisonwiththemuseum’sprisonexhibit,

techniquesandtechnology.Visitors canlearnaboutthe

deadlyweapons.

Theseexhibitsprovidevisitors withauniqueopportunitytolearnabout thetoolsofthetradeusedbycriminalsthroughout history.

Inadditiontotheexhibitsmentionedabove,the AlcatrazEastCrimeMuseuminPigeonForgealso hasdisplaysonthehistoryoflawenforcement, includingthedevelopmentofmodernpolice

O.J.Simpsontrial.Visitorscanlearnaboutthe detailsofthesecasesandtheimpacttheyhadon society.

White-collarcrimeisalsoafocusofthemuseum, withexhibitsonfinancialfraudandembezzlement. Visitorscanlearnaboutthehistoryofwhite-collar crimeandtheimpactithashadontheeconomyand society.

Artandphotographsrelatedtocrimeandlaw enforcementarealsoondisplayatthemuseum, providingvisitorswithauniqueperspectiveonthe subjectmatter.

TheAlcatrazEastCrimeMuseuminPigeonForgeis locatedinapopulartouristdestination,offering visitorsachancetoexplorethesurroundingareaand enjoyotherattractions.PigeonForgeishometo Dollywood,athemeparkownedbycountrymusic legendDollyParton,aswellasotherpopulartourist destinations.

Overall,theAlcatrazEastCrimeMuseuminPigeon Forgeisanentertainingandeducationalexperience forallages.Themuseumisopendailyat10am,and visitorscanfindinformationabouttickets,group discounts,andtemporaryexhibitsonthemuseum’s website.

TheAlcatrazEastCrimeMuseuminPigeonForgeis notdirectlyrelatedtoAlcatrazIslandinSan FranciscoBay.AlcatrazIslandwasaformerfederal prison,whiletheAlcatrazEastCrimeMuseumisa museumdedicatedtoshowcasingthehistoryand evolutionofAmericancrimeandlawenforcement.

TheAlcatrazEastCrimeMuseuminPigeon Forgeisamust-visitdestinationforanyone interestedinthehistoryandimpactofcrimeon Americansociety.Withitsvarietyofexhibits, interactivedisplays,anduniqueartifacts,the museumoffersacomprehensiveandimmersive experiencethatisbothentertainingand educational. https://www.alcatrazeast.com

Byways54

Bywaysispublishedbi-monthlybyByways,Inc.and distributedelectronicallythroughoutNorthAmerica. Bywaysisemailedtomorethan5,000touroperators andTravelTrade.Subscriptionsarecomplimentary. AniPad&iPhoneversionisavailableforconsumers intheAppStore.AnAndroidbrowserversionis availableat www.issuu.com/byways.

Byways’distributionincludesmotorcoachcompanies, touroperators,selectedtravelagents,andothergroup

tourtravelpromoters.Itisalsoavailableto consumerswithaninterestinNorthAmericantravel. Foradvertisingrates,editorialdeadlines,ortoplace advertisinginsertions,contact:BywaysMagazineat 540-233-1121.

©Copyright2023byByways,Inc.Allrightsreserved. Noportionofthispublicationmaybeduplicatedin anyformwithoutexpresswrittenpermissionofthe publisher.